Pollinators All About Those Bee Houses Bee house? Pollinator palace? Bug hotel? Check out some ideas for building pollinator real estate with the child in your life and find out why we may want to invite pollinators into our yards and gardens! Read More Aster and Hyssop – Pollinator Magnets One of the goals for many gardeners is to have plants blooming in the garden all season. With a little planning, Minnesota native plants can help you fulfill this challenge. But having blooms in your garden all season isn’t just aesthetically pleasing, blooming native flowers are a constant food source for pollinators. This article focuses on two late summer plants loved by pollinators - Asters and Hyssops. Read More Attracting Monarch and Swallowtail Butterflies to your garden One of the sweetest events in a Minnesota June, is the appearance of butterflies in the garden. These delicate creatures are not only astonishingly beautiful but a key link in a healthy environment. In this article, you will learn about the life cycles of two butterfly species - Monarch and Swallowtail; along with what plants to grow to encourage them to take up residence in your garden. Read More Bees - Friend or Foe? Is There a Way I Can Help? As the weather warms, we are faced with the question -” Are bees my friend or foe?” What is your first reaction when you see a bee? Do you stand still and watch in amazement as a bee flies around or do you wave your arms, scream and run the other way. Little eyes are watching our reaction so before you turn and run, let’s teach our children and grandchildren to respect bees and remember how important bees are to us and how we can help them exist by making a Bee Bath. Read More Bug Hotels and Pollinator Habitats Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Read More Building a Pollinator Garden “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” This may or may not be a true Albert Einstein quote but the concept is valid. We need bees and all pollinators. Approximately 75% of the world’s flowering plants require a pollinator to reproduce. Pollinators help produce one-third of our food. It’s hard to imagine a diet without many fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Read More Common Milkweed (Asclepius syriaca): An Uncommon Beauty If a plant has adapted to its environment such that it is easily grown, it often suffers the fate of being called “common”. That is a disservice to Asclepius syriaca or “common milkweed”, which is anything but “common”. Indeed, its value to pollinators is uncommonly great. It attracts hordes of butterflies and other pollinators. Read this article to learn more about this important staple in pollinator gardens. Read More Do All Bees Sting? On one hand, a gardener’s tiny friend, the bee, is usually a docile doer of good, buzzing around from plant to plant, pollinating to provide a bountiful harvest in the future. On the other hand, many fear the small insect with the mighty sting. But do all bees sting? If you are curious, click on the link to learn more about our little friend, the bee. Read More Fragrant Plants If given a single flower right now, would your first reaction be to smell it? Scents can be so powerful. It can instantly unlock a memory and transport us to another time. Maybe the aroma of lilacs brings you back to playing in the backyard with your childhood best friend. Or the smell of basil, reminds you of your grandmother’s pesto. The fragrance of plants can enhance your garden and contribute to a sensory experience. It is easy to understand why we humans would want to be around good smelling plants and flowers, but have you ever wondered why plants have scents? Read More Get to Know our Minnesota State Bee Did you know that the Minnesota state bee is the rusty patched bumble bee? This designation is intended raise awareness about the role of pollinators in Minnesota’s environment and preserving their habitats. Unfortunately, while historically, our state bee appeared widely in North America, it is now on the endangered list. In this article read more about the rusty patched bumble bee and the important role that you can play in Garden Scavenger Hunt preservation efforts. Read More Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 2 Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the second in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. In this installment, Brenda talks about how plan for and choose plants for her native garden. Read More Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 1 Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the first in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. Read More 1 2 1 ... 1 2 ... 2

A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. Read More Beware of Ticks! But What if There Were No Ticks? We are well into tick season and unfortunately, the Minnesota Department of Health has observed an increase in Emergency Department visits related to tick bites over the past few months. We may be tempted to yearn for the eradication of ticks from our environment. Who needs them! This article provides a refresher on how to reduce the likelihood of receiving a tick bite and also explores the impact on the environment if ticks did not exist. Beware what you wish for! Read More Bird Feeding Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. Read More Boxelder Bugs It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. Read More Creating a Butterfly Habitat Would you like to attract a variety of butterflies to your garden? Different plants and environments attract different types of butterflies. So, if you really want to focus on particular butterflies, you can do it by planting appealing plants and creating welcoming environments. Read this informative article about what you need to do to attract butterflies to your garden. Read More Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Is creeping charlie an unwelcome intruder in your garden? Read this article to find out more about why this plant is so hard to eliminate and, even, how you can appreciate and even live with Creeping Charlie in your garden. Read More December - Feed The Birds That Live in Your Neighborhood Winter is upon us and as the temperatures drop and the snow begins to fall, our feathery friends need our help finding food. The first step is to understand what birds you have in your neighborhood. Different birds eat different foods. Observe with your young gardeners what birds frequent your area to determine the best way you can help. There are many different make-at-home birdfeeders but let’s get started on making mini frozen bird feeders that can be made, frozen and set out for our feathery friends this winter. Read More Don’t Let Powdery Mildew Haunt You! Powdery mildew is a very common garden fungus. This fungus was even more prevalent last year when our abundant rainfall increased our summer humidity. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Read this very informative article to understand what powdery mildew is, how it affects plants, what you can do to prevent it and how to control it when it happens. Read More Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Read More Eradicating Invasive Honeysuckle in the Minnesota Landscape Minnesota has several species of native honeysuckle but beware - there is a chance the honeysuckle you have at home may be one of the four non-native species of bush honeysuckle that are invasive in a Minnesota landscape! This article tells you how to tell the difference and what to do about these invasive plants. Read More Getting the Jump on Jumping Worms Many of us associate worms in the soil as an indicator of “good garden soil.” Unfortunately, that is not necessarily true in Minnesota these days. “Jumping worms” have become more common in local gardens recently and that is not a good thing. Read this article to understand why. Read More Grow Pear Trees Successfully In Your Back Yard Pear trees can be just as easy if not easier to grow than apples! Find out how in this article. I am sorry to report that Partridges are a mostly ground-dwelling bird, so you’ll likely not see any in your trees. Read More 1 2 3 1 ... 1 2 3 ... 3 Diseases, Pests & Wildlife

Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets during the spring, summer, and fall in Apple Valley, Burnsville, Eagan, and Lakeville. During the winter, you can find them at winter markets in Eagan and Apple Valley. A complete listing of dates, locations and times can be found on our Event Calendar. Gardening Problem or Questions? Garden Information Ask a MG Ask a Master Gardener Extension Yard & Garden Extension Yard & Garden Garden Information 1/3 Upcoming Events View All Events Get the Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Monthly gardening tasks Master Gardener events Plant diseases, insects or other garden problems Tips to enhance your garden and the environment; Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books and much more! Subscribe Now Check out our YouTube channel! Dakota County Master Gardener YouTube

< Back Getting Your Squash Across the Finish Line You are nearing the squash finish line for fall and winter squash. To ensure you get to enjoy the fruits of your squash labors this summer, there are still a few things you should do. Your squash vines, which once ruled the garden with massive green leaves, are now showing their age. As summer transitions into autumn, squash plants face a unique set of stressful challenges. Understanding these late-season concerns—and taking immediate action—can mean the difference between a bumper harvest and a rotting disappointment. Read this article for helpful tips for a great squash harvest. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener There are three major concerns: powdery mildew, late-season blossom end rot, and a final wave of pests. This article will review these three issues and end with tips for knowing when your squash is ready to pick. ( https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/pumpkins-and-winter-squash ). Powdery Mildew Photo credit: University of Maryland Extension https://extension.umd.edu/resource/key-common-problems-squash/ The first concern is powdery mildew. It is a fungal infection often caused by overwatering, and inadequate air flow. It lives in plant debris and may spread from other infected plants. Powdery mildew on flowers, for example, will not infect squash as the fungi are host specific. But the presence of powdery mildew on another plant is a warning that conditions are prime for infections to occur on other plants. Warm days and cool nights that may still be humid contribute to the development of powdery mildew. If you don’t address it, it can speed up leaf death and that can expose your still developing squash to sunscald. Loss of leaves can also starve the plant as it now lacks the ability to generate energy needed to support the ripening squash. To avoid this problem in future years, you will want to ensure good end of season garden clean-up by removing and destroying infected plant debris as it can host spores that survive over winter. Source : https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/powdery-mildew-vegetables/ Blossom End Rot Photo credit: University of Maryland Extension The next concern is blossom end rot. You may have heard of this problem in relation to tomatoes but it is a problem that occurs in several other vegetables, including squash. The cause of blossom end rot is a calcium deficiency due to inconsistent watering. Plants need water to help them move the calcium into their system. The way to prevent blossom end rot is to continue to water your plants consistently as your squash is forming and ripening. Late Season Pests Photo credit: University of Maryland Extension Finally, continue to be vigilant about pests on your squash plants. Squash bugs and cucumber beetles are focused on getting ready for winter and are seeking shelter and sugar. They often gather in large groups under the yellowing squash leaves and may even be found on the skin of the squash, which will result in rinds that are scarred. Other articles in previous Garden Buzz issues have discussed the types of pests that may be of concern, including squash bugs, and how to prevent and manage them, e.g., hand picking them off. Problem Solving You can take actions to lessen end of season problems that may threaten your squash harvest. First, prune your squash plants for sunshine and airflow. Grab your shears and aggressively remove dead, yellow, or heavily mildewed leaves. Open up the canopy. This increases airflow to dry out morning dew and allows the weaker autumn sun to hit the fruit directly, accelerating the ripening process. Leave as much healthy foliage as possible so squash are not completely exposed to the sun. To avoid having your squash rot as it rests on the ground, prop them on something like a brick, flat stone, or upside-down containers. This can help break up the ‘pest highway’ and reduce the risk of fungal rot. Harvesting and Storage You’ve done everything you can to protect your squash and finally it is time to harvest them. But when is the right time? You can ‘Perform the Thumbnail Test’ by pressing your thumbnail firmly into the rind. If it leaves a deep indentation or punctures the skin, the squash is not mature enough to store and must stay on the vine. If the skin is rock-hard and resists your nail, it is ready for harvest. Always cut the stem with pruners, leaving a two-inch "handle" to prevent rot from entering the fruit. Harvesting your winter squash is only half the battle. To ensure your squash stay fresh and delicious well into winter, you must properly cure and store them. This process thickens the skin, heals minor scratches, and concentrates the natural sugars. To cure winter squash, move them to a warm, dry room with good air circulation for 10-14 days. Ideal temperatures are between 70°F and 80°F (21°C to 27°C). Lay them in a single layer. Do not let them touch each other. Acorn squash is an exception , as heat destroys its quality. Instead of curing it, move it straight to storage. Once the squash is cured, store them in a cool, dark, and dry space like a pantry, root cellar, or unheated closet. Keep the room between 50°F and 55°F (10°C to 13°C). Never let them freeze, and avoid cold garage floors and bare concrete floors because they draw up moisture. Instead, store them on shelves or in slatted crates. When stored properly, you will be able to enjoy your: Acorn Squash: 1 to 2 months Spaghetti Squash: 2 to 3 months Butternut Squash: 3 to 6 months Hubbard & Pumpkins: 5 to 6 months Follow these end of season tips and enjoy your home-grown squash!

< Back Keeping Your Garden Looking Good in the Fall You are nearing the squash finish line for fall and winter squash. To ensure you get to enjoy the fruits of your squash labors this summer, there are still a few things you should do. Your squash vines, which once ruled the garden with massive green leaves, are now showing their age. As summer transitions into autumn, squash plants face a unique set of stressful challenges. Understanding these late-season concerns—and taking immediate action—can mean the difference between a bumper harvest and a rotting disappointment. Read this article for helpful tips for a great squash harvest. Liz Townley, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern By the time we get to the State Fair and Labor Day weekend, your garden might be looking as tired as you feel. What happens to your garden is often a reflection of your time, energy and dedication to your craft. I get it, you weathered the heat waves, the constant watering, spraying for pests, and now, you are just tired of giving attention to what’s left blooming or showing any signs of life. But it doesn’t have to be that way! Fall can be a time for renewal and added vigor to your gardens. How many times does it look like you have fought the good fight keeping your annuals up and in swoops a deer that chomps off all the flowerheads? Or the heat waves have caused your plants to look leggy or under distress? If you have ever done a room renovation in your home, it might just be time for a garden renovation, often called ‘The August Reset.’ Ideally, you would like to see something always blooming. Fall flowers and foliage can team up to give you those final weeks of glory. Photo credit University of Minnesota Extension Plan and reset Generally, we think of garden planning as a spring activity. But fall is a perfect time to take note of what plants worked and what did not and make some late-season adjustments. You can see where animals and insects took some care to ruin leaves, produce, and roots. Maybe it is time to move a plant that is not doing well now that the temperatures are cooling down. Do you like the colors in your fall garden or are you finding yourself staring at the traditional fall colors of yellow, orange and rust? They can be just beautiful. Yet, adding some nontraditional colors can add a little flavor to your garden: reds, purples, whites and even pinks! Think about rosy Autumn Joy Sedum, purple Aster, pink mums, or purple Turtlehead. Ornamental Kale can add an interesting look to the fall garden. It may be too late to start from seed for most plants. Although some plants can come up quickly under the right conditions. Just be aware of propagation time to not disappoint yourself! Stay in the zone. See map below: Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension And don’t discount the role of foliage to add interest and even color to your garden, try variegated hostas, sedum, Japanese painted fern, or brunnera. Many shrubs turn into shades of red in the fall, such as: fothergilla, hydrangea, viburnum, dogwood, black chokeberry and sumac. With some planning, you can keep your garden interesting well into the fall. Try cutting back a plant to extend its final surge in growth Some plants – perennials and annuals – will thrive after being pruned back in summer. The best candidates for the one-third prune approach are perennials that bloom on new growth: catmint, salvia, geranium, coreopsis, veronica, and bee balm. Annual blooming flowers like petunias, calibrachoa, lobelia, and verbena - these are the trailing/mounding types that genuinely get leggy – can be rejuvenated with a good trimming. Herbs fall into this same camp, since they also flower and flush out new growth continuously. Basil, mint, oregano, thyme, and tarragon all respond beautifully to a good midsummer trim. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension Leafy greens thrive in fall temps Here are some leafy greens that are candidates for August planting: kale, bok choy, spinach, chard, mustard greens, and lettuce. They flourish in early fall’s cooler temperatures and are ready to harvest in about 45 days. They are ideal for trellising or raised bed edges. Flowering plants that will work for the fall season Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension Try these suggestions to get some last-minute glory for those cool morning and hot afternoon seasonal shifts. It is always important to get things established before that first frost hits. Purple Coneflower Black Eyed Susans Blanket Flower Obedient plant Salvia Swamp milkweed Hardy Hibiscus Shasta Daisy Whatever, you try, document it for next year. No sense in making the same mistake twice. Weather can be a bit unpredictable during the fall season, so make note of those irregularities. Gardening is more like an artform sometimes. Whatever you choose: greens, flowering, native or nonnative, annuals or perennials, don’t forget to include plants that feed the pollinators as they go into hibernation or migration. They will thank you for your choices of flowering plants. Check out this link to a University of Minnesota Yard and Garden article for pollinator friendly plants. Remember to forge your inner artist and design away! Source: Gardeners swear by the one-third pruning rule to revive tired flower beds MSN Story by Debbie Wolfe Source: 11 heat-loving flowers that keep blooming all August Southern Living - Mary Marlowe Leverette Source of photos: University of Minnesota Extension Office website 2026

< Back Growing Ginger Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Read this article to learn the steps to grow ginger successfully. Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Here are the steps to grow ginger: Choose the right ginger: You can buy ginger roots from the grocery store or garden center. Look for pieces that are plump, with firm skin, and have several eye buds, which are small yellowish tips on the surface of the ginger. Prepare the soil: Ginger prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Add compost or well-rotted manure to the soil to improve fertility and drainage. Plant the ginger: Cut the ginger into small pieces, making sure each piece has at least one eye bud. Plant each piece about 2 inches deep, with the eye facing up, and space them about 6 inches apart. Water regularly: Ginger needs to be watered regularly, but make sure not to overwater it as it can cause the root to rot. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Provide warm temperatures: Ginger grows best in warm temperatures. Ideally, the temperature should be between 70 - 80 °F during the day and 60 -70°F at night. Provide shaded light: Ginger prefers partial shade and indirect sunlight. If growing indoors, place the ginger in a bright room with indirect sunlight. Harvest ginger: Ginger takes about 8 – 10 months to mature. Once the stems begin to turn yellow and die, it is time to harvest. Carefully dig up the ginger roots without damaging them. By following these steps, you can grow delicious ginger at home! Photo Credit: www.flavorexplosions.com (all creative commons)

< Back Sustainable Gardening Clean Up Practices Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener As the summer growing season comes to an end, we in the gardening community know our work is not quite done. With the end of the season comes the start of the next, and before you know it, it's already time to clean up your garden. Before you start this necessary process, consider how a few simple sustainable practices can help support your garden’s long-term health while helping local systems thrive. Why do sustainable practices matter? They can help reduce your overall garden waste. They address some of the environmental impacts of conventional cleanup. They improve soil health. They help with biodiversity in your area, bugs and critters alike. Leave the Leaves (Strategically) Mulch . One of the best things you can do with your fall leaf litter is to turn it into useful mulch. Mulching is the process of breaking down dried fall leaves into small parts. This helps leaves break down easier and can promote soil and lawn health. Mulch can be used for insulating flower beds and it helps key nutrients return into the soil. Mulching leaves can be done with specific lawnmowers or electric leaf shredders, but there are also some easy to do free alternatives. You can stomp them in a trash bag, use gardening shears, or even run them over with a car . One recent study from the University of Wisconsin found that using 2-5 inches of mulched leaves for winter lawn cover resulted in greener grass throughout the summer and resulted in fewer weeds than unmulched leaves . Another benefit of leaving leaf litter strategically around your yard is the shelter they provide beneficial insects like pollinators . Multiple insects like bees, butterflies, and moths use remnants of your garden to overwinter in. Leaving some areas with leaf piles, dead plant stems, and even tree bark can provide beneficial insects with the necessary cover to survive the winter. Cut Plants Back Selectively It can be tempting to cut back your plants (perennials and shrubs) every fall, but leaving some plant material standing, like dead plant stems, leaves, and even flowers, can provide additional nutrients to your gardens. In addition, leaving flower heads behind is beneficial not just to your garden’s bug population but the local birds as well. Coneflowers, sunflowers, and other prairie flowers provide seeds to birds throughout the winter. Leaving them up can provide them with a good food source, and a habitat source for small creatures. Also, if you do need to cut these plants back, consider cutting the top two-thirds down; some insects specifically overwinter in the bottom one-third of the plant stalk . However, it is always recommended to cut dead or diseased plants to remove any infestation entirely. Pollinator Compost Smarter Composting piles are a good way to turn plant materials and more, into usable mulch that can provide great nutrients back to your plants! Composting is the process of letting natural occurring processes break down plant and yard waste resulting in a great soil amendment or mulch. Besides grass and leaves, many other organic materials are compostable, such as: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Nonwoody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds Taking the time to build or buy a structure to start a compost pile can produce faster and more thorough composting, getting more benefits from your garden leftovers. While composting can seem hard to learn, this guide from the University of Minnesota, can provide a better understanding of how to start your own! Reuse Garden Waste Creatively If your garden cleanup consists of more wood-based debris, or you have any woody invasives, consider using those leftover materials to either make a brush pile for smaller animals or make a natural trellis! Making a brush pile can be great as it provides natural protection for small animals , such as songbirds, small mammals, and even foxes or skunks ! In addition, as the brush decays it will also provide great nutrients for insects, which are a great food source for other animals like birds and small mammals . Small brush piles stacked strategically could even be used as a good shelter for small saplings from deer ! To build one, start with larger branches or logs as a base and then add smaller branches on top. Besides brush piles, larger branches and bendable sticks can be used to make a trellis for any of your climbing garden plants ! This offers a fun DIY opportunity to make use of every part of your garden! These good gardening practices, as you clean up your garden, can make a big difference for your local ecosystem. This fall, bring your garden into balance with nature by trying a few of these tricks yourself! Photo Credits: https://atlaslawnandsnow.com (1,2), https://source.roboflow.com (3), https://images.rawpixel.com (4)

< Back Gardening with Annuals Shari Dugstad, Dakota County Master Gardener Annual flowers are welcome additions to our yards because they add a wide variety of color to the garden. Unlike most perennials, annuals will often provide colorful flowers throughout the growing season in Minnesota. Planting these colorful gems can be a fun activity for every member of your family and something your whole family can enjoy. This article reviews how to find the best annuals and how you can grow them successfully in your garden. For more information about soil, fertilizing, watering and general care of Annual flowers are welcome additions to our yards because they add a wide variety of color to the garden. Unlike most perennials, annuals will often provide colorful flowers throughout the growing season in Minnesota. Unfortunately, annual flowers are not hardy in Minnesota and must be replanted each year. But planting these colorful gems can be a fun activity for every member of your family. So, let’s review how to find the best annuals and how you can best use them in your garden. There are numerous varieties of annuals to choose from and they are relatively easy to grow. But before buying your annual flowers, consider what you are looking for - size, color, full sun or shade, landscaping enhancement, pollinators, container appropriate, zone or just a favorite flower. Annuals that attract Pollinators If you are interested in annual pollinators to complement your perennial pollinator garden but don’t know where to start, take a look at this University of Minnesota Extension study of more than 30 annual flower varieties. The study found nine flowers that attracted the most pollinators: Music Box Mix sunflower (Helianthus anuus ‘Music Box Mix’) Lemon Queen sunflower (Helianthus annuus ‘Lemon Queen’) Summer Pink Jewel Salvia (Salvia coccinea ‘Summer Jewel Pink’) Purple Fairy Tale Salvia (Salvia verticilliata ‘Purple Fairy Tale’) Orange Fudge Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta ‘Orange Fudge’) Prairie Sun Black-eyed Susan(Rudbeckia hirta ‘Prairie Sun’) Showstar Butter Daisy (Melampodium paludosum ‘Showstar’) Dakota Gold Sneezeweed (Helenium amarum ‘Dakota Gold’) Envy Zinnia (Zinnia elegans ‘Envy’) Click on the study, above, for more information about the characteristics of these annuals. For a longer list of annuals that can be grown in Minnesota, look at this list provided by the University of Minnesota Extension. Top Performing Annuals in Minnesota There are so many annuals to choose from and it can be hard to know which will grow best in Minnesota. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension has conducted trials on various cultivars. You can find lists of the top performing annuals and their features in the flower trials between 2018 and 2024 here . Here are the top ten for 2024: Begonia x hybrida Adora Velvet Red Celosia plumosa Bright Sparks Bright Red bronze Leaf Coleus Premium Sun Crimson Gold Dahlia Virtuoso Pinkerific Impatiens x hybrida SunPatiens Vigorous Purple Kwik kombo Picnic in the Park Mix Lantana Shamrock Rose Gold Lobelia Heatopia Dark Blue Marigold Pretty Yellow Salvia Sallyfun Pure White Dahlia Virtuoso Pinkerific Annuals for Container Gardens Annuals for Container Gardens If you would like to grow annuals in containers, the options are endless. Container gardening provides opportunities to be creative, to experiment with different flowers, to plant flowers with family or children, to enhance your landscape and to add beauty to your garden. Containers are also great way for those who don’t have a yard in which to plant, to add color to their world Containers work great for small spaces like decks and patios. (Note, also, that perennials can be incorporated into your annual containers for an interesting look.) Enjoy the process with container gardening. Before you get started determine what container you will use. A container can be almost anything that will hold soil and has drainage. But the material that they are made of can affect how your plant will grow. Click on this article to learn about the benefits and variables of different kinds of containers. You also need to decide where the containers will be located. Do they need full or partial sun or shade? How big a container do you need? Selecting plants for your containers Will you combine plants or have a single type of plant in the container? If plants are combined, select plants that flourish in the same soil, and have the same watering and light needs. Determine plant size, shape and number of plants for various impacts in the garden - color, interest, complementary to the landscape. Consider the color of the pot that is being used in conjunction with plant selection. An easy way to design a container is to use plants that are ‘thrillers, fillers and spillers.’ ‘Thrillers’ are the focal point and are usually bright, tall plants. ‘Fillers’ are often round, mounding, lower growing plants that make containers look full like begonia, coleus, and geraniums. ‘Spillers’ are plants that hang over the side of the container, like calibrachoa, nasturtium, and sweet potato vines. your containers, here is an article to review. With a little bit of effort this spring, you and your whole family can enjoy the pleasures of annuals in your garden. A little research on your part can result in the best annuals for your yard. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Shari Dugstad (2-4)

< Back May - Container Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. This article will help you plan your container garden. Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. So, what should you think about as you consider creating a container garden? Selecting a Container A container can be anything that can hold the soil and plants. However, it is preferable that the container have a drainage hole so the plants’ root systems aren’t sitting in water. If you are using a pot without drainage holes, consider shoreline plants since they like wet soil. In selecting your container consider eye appeal, convenient and cost. Eye Appeal: Appearance is, of course, important as you select containers for your plants. If you really like a decorative planter that doesn’t have a drainage hole, consider double potting - placing a pot with drainage hole and a saucer inside the decorative plant. Impact on plants: You do want to consider how the pot you are using will impact the plants you intend to place in those containers. When purchasing a pot or planter, take into consideration the type of plant you plan on placing in the pot and the impact on the care required. Consider what the pot is made of, the size of the pot and its color. Plastic pots are generally less costly. They are also lighter in weight. This can be of particular importance if you will be planting a larger plant. Also consider that plastic pots hold moisture and therefore the plants don’t need to be watered as frequently. You may prefer clay pots. Clay pots are usually more costly and are definitely heavier than plastic pots. Be aware that, because they are porous, the soil in clay pots dry out more quickly. The color of the pot also can have an impact on your plant. Darker planters absorb heat so, if the pot will be in direct sunlight the soil will dry out faster. Also think about the type of plant - is it one that likes heat or will wither due to the warmer environment in the dark pot? Selecting Soil All soil is not the same. Potting soil should be used in most container gardening. It includes ingredients such as plant food, peat moss, ground pine bark, and either perlite or vermiculite and a wetting agent added to keep the mix from drying out. Garden soil is predominantly soil, is denser and doesn’t drain as readily as potting soil. For plants such as cacti purchase soil specifically designed for those plants. Selecting Plants Consider the amount of sun when selecting the plants to insert in your container. If the plant is said to require full sun, that means it needs at least eight hours of sun. To allow your indoor plant to receive the most sunlight place near a south facing window. Plants that require shade, should be placed in a more protected location. Also consider the size of the container for a particular plant. Check to see if the plant prefers to have a lot of space for its root system or if it prefers a tighter space. Consider putting multiple plants in the same container. If you do choose to do this, make sure all the plants require the same type of growing environment including the same amount of sun and water. As for design - you may have heard the saying that containers should contain a “thriller, spiller and filler.” And that’s because it usually works. Include a tall, showy “thriller,” one or more plants that drape over the side of the pot (“spiller”), and one or more medium sized anchor plants in the middle (“filler”) when designing your container. Watering and Fertilizing Requirements Check on the requirements of the plant that you have selected. Then, water plants on their schedule, not yours. Overwatering is more frequently a problem than under watering. Signs of overwatering include: yellow or brown limp or droopy leaves and/or the overall plant looks wilted, limited new growth, algae or mold on the soil, rotted or stunted roots. If your soil is dried out, the plant looks wilted and/or the tips of the leaves appear dried out and brown it may indicate that your plant needs more water. Remember that one of the ingredients in potting soil is fertilizer. So don’t fertilize the plant immediately. When ready to fertilize follow the instructions for the fertilizer you purchase. Don’t over fertilize and note that plants don’t grow as rigorously during winter. So, plants require little or no fertilizer during winter months. Be Creative Have fun with your container gardening. It allows you to express your creativity and will bring you tremendous beauty whether inside your house, on your balcony or in your yard. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1, 4), Linda Stein (2, 3, 5)

Events Every year the Master Gardeners in Dakota County share their knowledge of research-based horticultural and environmental information by hosting classes and events. Most events occur in spring, summer and fall. There’s something for everyone. Let’s Get Growing is an event for home gardeners of all skill levels looking to learn more and have a good time. This event includes classes, keynote speaker, lunch, silent auction and a chance to win door prizes too. Classes are taught by U of M Master Gardeners as well as horticulture professionals. Spring Plant Sale Get beautiful, hardy Minnesota grown plants at a great price and benefit the Master Gardener program of Dakota County too. Classes and Workshops If there is a gardening topic chances are there is a Dakota County Master Gardening speaking about it somewhere. Classes are offered throughout the year at a variety of locations throughout the county. Farmers Markets Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets in Lakeville, Eagan, Burnsville, and Apple Valley. Look for our table at both summer and winter area markets. A complete listing of dates, location and times can be found on our Event Calendar . Community Gardens Master Gardeners participate in comparison vegetable trials and then share their results with you on this website. This year we cooperated in a state-wide trial to look at attractiveness of annual; flowers to various pollinators. Data was collected each week for eight weeks and will be compiled into a report. We are hoping that the information will help gardeners choose flowers that will improve habitat for pollinators.

< Back September - Seed Saving Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Read this article for some tips to help make your seed saving productive! Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Below are some tips to help make your seed saving productive! If you grow to eat the plant, and want to save seed for the next season, make sure you plant extra. Choose to either eat the plant or save the seed, but don’t expect to do both. If the plant you want to save seed from has an ‘F1’ on the label—don’t bother. This is a hybrid plant and you will not get the results you are looking for. Try heirloom varieties instead. Seeds are not created equal. Breeders pick the plant that is most desirable and stands out for a particular trait or traits—the largest, earliest blooming, tastiest, etc., for the next season. Once you have your seeds, go through and separate out the smaller, cracked and/or misshapen seeds. Use the unblemished ‘perfect’ seeds first. Seeds are ready for harvesting once fully ripe—if you pick too early the seed will not germinate. ‘Fully ripe’ for seed harvesting is usually when the plant is almost dead, or the fruit/vegetable is almost to the rotting point, or brown, dry and splitting open. Seeds need to be fully dry before storing for the following year(s). The moisture content needs to be very low, or mold/rotting can occur, spoiling the seed. Storage for seeds should be in breathable envelopes (I use coin envelopes), and kept in a cool dark place. Avoid humidity and damp places. Seeds are viable for a number of years, but it is best to use seed within a year or two of harvesting. There are methods to determine viability for seeds if you have them for longer, but expect the germination rate to drop each year. Self-pollinating plants are great seed saver candidates (think tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas) for beginners. Plants which cross-pollinate are a little trickier to harvest seed from (cucumbers, squash, corn, melons, for example). Extra measures need to be employed to ensure seeds are not contaminated from similar varieties planted too close. Try growing just one variety, or keep similar plants far away to minimize being compromised by wind and/or insect pollination. Seeds from wet, fleshy plants (tomatoes, melons, etc.) are a little more involved than from a seedhead or pod. The seeds are encased in a gooey substance that needs to be removed and thoroughly dried before storing. Just put the seeds in some water and let it rot/ferment for a few days. This helps remove the coating and improves germination. Just rinse and let dry completely and then store as usual. If you would like more information, the book Seed to Seed , by Susan Ashworth, is highly recommended. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: U of M Extension (1, 3), Natalie Hoidal, U of M Extension (2)

< Back February - Starting Seeds Indoors Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil. By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers. If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings are growing vigorously in a warm humid environment. Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)