< Back Behind the Plant Sale Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener (and the Plant Sale Team) Every May, the Dakota County Master Gardeners put on a fabulous Plant Sale. In this article, we focus on what goes on “behind the plant sale.” From harvesting native seeds, to growing vegetables and herbs in our green and hoop houses, our plants are healthy, well-cared for and home-grown. This is a look at the people and processes that allow us to bring you some of the best quality, healthy and unique plants in the area. Every May, the Dakota County Master Gardeners put on a fabulous Plant Sale . This year the sale is on May 18th and will be held at the Whitetail Woods Regional Park, Empire Shelter, 171 Station Trail, Farmington from 8 a.m. to noon. All of the proceeds from our plant sale go to support our local projects: school and community gardens, adult education, the Farmington Seed Library, and seed trials throughout Dakota County, and many more. More information about the plant sale can be found elsewhere in this newsletter. In this article, I want to talk about what goes on “behind the plant sale;” focusing on the people and tasks that allow us to bring you the finest plants. The Dakota County Master Gardener (DCMG) plant sale is somewhat unique in that all of the plants that we sell are either directly from Dakota County gardens or are grown from seed by our Master Gardeners. We don’t buy plants grown by third-party growers. Our plant sale is well known for the quality and variety of vegetables that are available. Recently, we have also become recognized for the number and variety of native plants that we grow and sell. This effort is complex and requires expertise to provide you with the best quality and healthiest plants. Let’s take a look at what it takes to put on our plant sale and some of the people who make it happen. Preparing for the plant sale is a group effort. Approximately 70 MGs are involved in preparing for and working at the plant sale but Mary Beth Kufrin and Marie Stolte are the two very organized, very hard working and very talented MGs who are “in charge.” Collecting Native Seeds The annual plant sale starts with collecting seeds. DCMGs encourage the use of native plants. Take a look at the many articles on our website about native plants and the environmental benefits of growing them. In the fall, DCMGs collect native plant seeds from Dakota County Parks and our own gardens. The seeds are cleaned and stratified as needed. The seeds are then taken home by several DCMGs who will plant and grow the native seedlings. The Greenhouse Crew In addition to the native plants grown by DCMGs, we buy a variety of vegetable seeds based on plants that our customers have preferred the past. In March, those seeds are planted in a greenhouse by a group of DCMG volunteers. The group is led by Marc Battistini, Jinny Berkopec and Lisa Hofmann – all very experienced and dedicated DCMGs who spend many hours directing the volunteers and caring for the young plants. For the plant sale this year, the greenhouse crew planted : 12 varieties of tomatoes, 13 varieties of peppers and a few varieties of herbs (including Asian herbs). Also, in March, the seedlings that have been nurtured by DCMGs at home (including houseplants) are moved to the greenhouse. Over 50 varieties of natives and several different landscape plants were seeded. The greenhouse crew waters and tends to the seedlings as they grow into more mature plants. As they mature, seedlings are transplanted into larger pots. In April, the maturing plants are moved to a “hoop house” on the grounds of UMORE Park. (A hoop house is a type of greenhouse that is covered in heavy-duty plastic.) The plants will have outgrown our current greenhouse (which also grows plants for our trial gardens) and the hoop house provides a roomier home for the plants. The hoop house also provides a good staging area for the plant sale. All of the hundreds of plants must be labeled and priced by another group of volunteers. And - our plant sale is well-known for its very reasonable prices . Digging and Bare-Rooting Established Plants Of course, we also provide plants that are established and grown in the gardens of DCMGs. DCMGs tend to grow perennials that will prosper in our part of Minnesota! They dig the plants out of their own gardens shortly before the sale. DCMGs crews go the homes of Dakota County residents with large numbers of appropriate plants and dig those plants, as well. You are probably aware that jumping worms have become a significant problem in Minnesota. Jumping worms can severely stunt or kill plants and are transferable in the soil around a plant’s roots. (Read the article on our website about the problems that jumping worms cause in gardens.) As a result, DCMGs don’t just transfer the plants directly from the ground to the pots that we sell. We go through a process called “bare-rooting.” Bare-rooting is the process of cleaning the roots of a plant. (Read our article on “ bare-rooting .”) Our established perennials will appear wrapped in wet newspaper and tubing. Presented this way, our plants may not look as “pretty” as in a garden store but you can be assured that you will not be importing jumping worms into your garden. And they carry the added benefit of being easier to transport and plant! Plant Sale Set up Finally, the day before the plant sale, the hundreds of plants that have been seeded and grown or dug from local gardens, are moved and set up at Empire Shelter at Whitetail Woods Regional Park, thanks to the generosity of Dakota County Parks and Recreation. In addition to the plants, DCMGs provide educational materials for display at the sale. After all, we don’t just view the plant sale as a fundraiser - the sale is a great opportunity to provide advice to homeowners about the plants. Part of the preparation for the plant sale is getting the word out. Providing information in the Garden Buzz, email, news outlets and other tools helps us to bring you in to our plant sale experience. Plant Sale Day As you might imagine, plant sale day is an “all-hands-on-deck” event for the DCMGs. We have volunteers walking the floor to provide advice and direct you to the appropriate plants. At the sale, you will also find a table labeled “Ask a Master Gardener” – DCMGs who are there to answer any gardening questions you may have. DCMGs are directing traffic, tending our “garage sale” and of course acting as cashiers. We know that there are many plant sales around the Twin Cities area in May. We hope that this article has helped explain why you should choose the DCMG plant sale for your gardening needs. Our plant sale provides home-grown, unique and healthy plants that, we think, cannot be found elsewhere. Come check us out on May 18th and see for yourself! Photo Credit: Robert Hatlevig (1,2,6), Jinny Berkopec (3,4,5), Marie Stolte (7), Robert Heidtke (8)

< Back Is it Too Late to Plant . . .? Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener Now it’s June and for many reasons, you don’t have your garden planted. Is it too late? This article explains why the answer is a resounding No! There are many vegetables and annuals that have a shorter time to maturation and will allow you to enjoy the fruits of your June labor. Read on to learn how to save your summer planting enjoyment. Now it’s June and for many reasons, you don’t have your garden planted. Is it too late? The resounding and reassuring answer is – No! And the answer is also – it depends. There are many vegetables and flowers that you can plant in June and still get a good harvest. However, there are a few plants that need a long growing season and planting in June might not provide sufficient time for flowers or vegetables to mature. This year, we’ve had a cool, wet spring and many of the perennials (plants that grow back every year) are ‘behind schedule,’ emerging or blooming at least a couple of weeks late. This suggests we already have a delayed planting season and even gardens planted early might be growing slowly or may even need to be replanted if the seeds rotted in the wet soil or tiny plants experienced a frost or freeze. How do you know what you can plant? There are some key items to look at – read the back of the seed packages, if you are sowing seeds, or tags inserted into plants you purchase. The back of the seed package tells you when it is best to plant the seeds, how long before the seed will germinate (when you can expect to see green pushing up out of the ground), and how long to harvest if the seed is going to produce vegetables. If the seed package says 90 days until harvest, you can plant it, but you might not get to pick anything unless we have a long, warm fall. In the picture, you can see Turnips have an estimated 45 days to harvest, so that would work but Parsnips are harvested 95 days after sowing. Even in a good growing year, Parsnips might be a gamble. If the package says the vegetable is a cool season crop, like peas, lettuce, or spinach, you might want to wait until late summer to plant as we are (usually) heading into our hottest growing time in late June, July, and August. You may have missed the spring season harvest, but you have an opportunity to enjoy the vegetable in the Fall. For more information on planting for fall harvest, see the Mid-Summer Planting Guide on the University of Minnesota Extension website. It also has excellent online resources and a handy “at a glance chart” on when to plant: Planting and Growing Guides If you were not able to start seeds yourself for plants needing more growing time than we have in a Minnesota summer, you could consider buying plants from garden centers or nurseries. This will increase your chances of planting late but still successfully growing longer season plants. Flowers don’t have the same timescale on their packages, but you can gather some hints from how the package describes planting. For example, if the package directs you to start the seed inside several weeks before outdoor planting, this may be a flower that needs a longer season than we have in Minnesota. This is not a hard and fast rule, however, as Zinnia packages suggest starting seeds indoors a few weeks before planting. You can successfully direct seed Zinnias – and many other flower seeds – through late June - early July. Just a word of caution: perennials can be sold in seed packets, but will take several years to reach maturity and bloom. To learn whether the flower you want to grow is an annual or perennial, and more information about many types of flowers and flower landscapes, e.g., pollinator gardens, you can refer to - UMN Extension Flowers In the end, especially with seeds, it never hurts to try. One year, I planted sunflowers, cosmos, and zinnias on the Fourth of July – all by seed – and by mid-August, had a pollinator’s paradise and riots of color to enjoy from my deck until Fall. Planting in June is very doable and, while you might have to watch neighbors and friends enjoying their garden harvest while you wait, you will be able to eat your own home-grown vegetables – just a little later. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (2) & Mickey Scullard (1,3)

< Back April - What To Do About Winter Damage Karna Berg, Master Gardener As we think beyond winter to spring, you may encounter winter damage to some of your plants. In this article, Karna Berg reminds us how to give your plants a boost going into winter and how to deal with winter damage in a way that will allow plants to recover and, ultimately, flourish. As you adjust to the cold of our winter, are you already looking ahead to spring? Before we know it, it will be here. In April, we start uncovering a few plants, anxious to find them poking their noses out of the mulch and leaves. Unfortunately, as we continue that process, we find plants that have not made it through the winter or have winter damage. What do we do? Hopefully, you watered your plants, especially trees and shrubs, as long as you possibly could in the fall. That gives them a better chance of making it through the winter. And also, you provided your perennial beds with a nice blanket of mulch and leaves. In fact, as the first snows hit us, we can carefully shovel some of that snow under the lower branches of our conifers to act as a cushion and help the branches stay upright when the ice or extremely wet snow falls on them. While it is tempting to try to remove snow and ice from our plants after a heavy snow, it is generally not a good idea. The only exception to that is for conifers. If you can safely brush some of the snow off those branches, it will help them stay upright. But no matter our fall attempts to prevent winter damage and death, we usually have some of it when spring comes. It’s just hard to avoid all damage, particularly with our erratic weather patterns that bring warm days in March to fool our plants. So, what can we do in spring? First, don’t take off the mulch and leaves too early no matter how tempting that may be. Wait until all chance of severe cold has passed. We all remember that late snowfall or cold. Also, walking on our gardens and lawns too early can cause foot damage. Then, start to assess damage winter caused in your garden. On trees and shrubs (often the plants that experience the most damage), remove dead, dry and damaged foliage. If you find broken branches, cut them back to the stem or back to the first live bud you find. Always leave a little distance from the stem or bud when you do this trimming. And if a limb is bent down but doesn’t appear dead, it may be possible to prop it up and see if it recovers. Again, in our perennial beds, hold back from uncovering them too early. But don’t wait too long or you’ll find pale green limp plants trying to get to the sun. If you have covered your perennials with mulch and leaves, most have probably made it through the winter. Now it’s important to remove those leaves. If not, they will smother the plants and cause mold in your garden. Also, the dreaded jumping worms, which live mainly in the top two inches of soil, love those leaves and will feed on them voraciously. Let’s not give them any reason to fall in love with our garden. Once you have babied a plant along, hoping it will come back to life but it doesn’t, just remove it from your garden. Then plant a native plant in its place. Our native plants are best at dealing with our Minnesota winters. And are also great for pollinators. Remember, when fall comes, water a lot but don’t fertilize your plants. Watch your use of salt during the winter. Then, hope for the best and enjoy spring! Photo credits: Rebecca Finneran, MSU Extension (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3)

< Back Succulents - It Is What to Grow in July Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener In May, the annuals were planted, but as the hot and dry days of July arrive are some of your annual planters looking overgrown or have they lost their curb appeal? Are your children still wanting to play in the dirt? Then look no further than the world of succulents. Succulents can easily be added to existing planters to refresh the look or they can be planted alone in a container. Explore with your child what makes succulents so unique and start planting! What is so unique about a succulent ? Succulents store water in their leaves - it allows them to survive in hot/dry conditions. Waxy coverings on the leaves help retain moisture and their root systems are not deep which allows for quicker water absorption when there is not much water available. Succulents come in all shapes, sizes and textures and their colors and markings vary as well. Lithops - look like stones or pebbles Sedums - small leaves form in clusters - usually round leaves Echeverias - often resemble a flower - leaves are thick and arranged in rosettes Cacti – yes, a cactus is a succulent - but as they say, all succulents are not cacti; spiky thick stems Cacti Planting our Succulent Planter Succulents can be added to an existing planter if the correct conditions and soil exist, but if they don’t, start by picking an empty planter where your succulents can receive a lot of indirect sunlight. Succulents come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors so let your child choose 3-5 succulent plants depending on the size of your planter. Most succulents will do well in shallow planters, but any will do. Let’s get planting! Gather the following : Succulents (1-5 based on size of container) Planter/Container - well draining and shallow is better Succulent/Cacti Soil - well draining soil Pebbles/Small River Rock for top dressing (optional) Planting Time Child can choose succulents - choose an appropriate number to fit the container Children can fill the planter with succulent/cacti soil, leaving about ½” to 1 “from rim of planter Before planting - arrange succulents in planter; once you have decided on the best arrangement, then planting can begin Succulent leaves can be fragile and can break off easily so please use caution when planting. If you have chosen to plant cacti then it will be helpful to have rubberized gloves on and possibly use a tong to place the cacti in the pot. Dig small hole for the succulent; place succulent in hole and then gently fill in around plant. Repeat the process above until all succulents are planted. Watering/Sunlight Key to watering is less is best . Succulents can thrive with little water. Invite your child to water, but emphasize that less water is needed for succulents. The best method for watering succulents is to thoroughly water the succulent until the soil is saturated (runs through) and then allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Succulents may dry out quicker when outside, but do not overwater. Sunlight is important to succulents; however, it’s best not to place the plant in direct sun, but instead bright indirect sunlight. Enjoy your new summer creation - the Succulent Planter. Don’t forget your new creation can be brought inside in the Fall when temperatures begin to cool. The succulent planter is a great addition to your “garden” - inside and out. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1,2), www.pexels.com (3,4)

< Back No More Stringy Petunias! Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. Read this article to learn what to do to keep your beautiful petunias looking full and fluffy. Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on, petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. So, what to do? Yank them out and put new ones in? Give up on them and replace them with a hardier plant, maybe a marigold? However, between replacing petunias and giving up on them altogether there is a third option: pruning them. Read on to learn how to prune petunias successfully. Pruning petunias will keep them full and fluffy all summer long. There is some work involved, but replacing petunias with more petunias or other flowers is also work. And not only that, it’s expensive and it involves running around to big box stores and nurseries to see if either one has any decent flowers left. In addition, pruning your petunias keeps your original design and color scheme in place and involves only minutes of work throughout the summer. To keep petunias blooming prolifically we must remember their mission, in fact the mission of all plants: to perpetuate the species. When the bloom on a petunia drops off its pod it creates a seed which will hopefully go on to create another petunia. Having accomplished its mission, the petunia dies in peace, leaving behind leggy and scraggly branches without flowers. The point of pruning is to send the opposite message to the petunia: you have not completed your mission. You have not set seed (because I have cut off all your seed pods). You must keep blooming, staying full and fluffy, until I decide to stop cutting them off (usually sometime in September, or sooner if we have an early frost). See the photo where the woman is about to cut off the pod where the bloom once grew? You must trim the petunia BEHIND THAT pod, which holds the seed, to convince the petunia she still has work to do and must continue to produce blooms. Petunias have many blooms and their seed pods often hide underneath the bottoms of branches, behind other blooming flowers. If you leave pruning them until they start to look “scraggly”, you may spend anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours pruning your petunias. It’s a tedious mission of search and destroy. There is an easier way . Buy a small pair of pointed scissors with colorful handles (so you can spot them in the soil) available at the Dollar Store or Michaels. In fact, buy one for every pot and bed of petunias if they are at some distance from each other. Stick the scissors point down into the pot or bed next to your petunias. Any time you are out in your yard inspecting or admiring your garden, check your petunias for spent blossoms and spend a minute or two cutting off the empty pods. A minute or two every day or so equals enough time to keep your petunias glorious all season. You can also prune for shape and form. If, in spite of your consistent pruning, your petunias develop leggy branches, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch in front of the new growth . You can also prune any branches that are not keeping to the design or shape you wish. Again, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch right in front of it. Do this consistently and the work will be minimal. Your petunias will outdo themselves producing blooms to complete their mission and you will enjoy full and fluffy petunias all summer! References: https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/growing-petunias https://icultivate.net/how-to-prune-petunias / https://www.epicgardening.com/prune-petunias/ https://www.gardendesign.com/how-to/prune-petunias.html Photo Credits: UMN Extension (1,4 ), Susan Ball (2,3)

< Back Tomato Harvesting A BLT Lovers Guide to the Picking Process Tom Molitor and Scott Soltis, Dakota County Master Gardeners It’s August in Minnesota, the summer solstice is in the rear-view mirror, the neighborhood is still ringing with the sound of July 4th exploding fireworks, and your backyard garden is also exploding with Cherokee Purples, Red Romas and Green Zebras. If you’re like any other gardener, you’re probably doing one of two things at the moment: staring lovingly at your green vined tomatoes, or aggressively imagining them fully ripe on your kitchen counter. This article has some helpful tips for harvesting tomatoes successfully. The timing may surprise you! Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension Thanks to the June rain (plus whatever diligent watering you've managed to keep up with), those tomato plants are filled with fruit, the finish line is finally in sight, and maybe, just maybe, you’ve already experienced that early-summer joy of plucking the first, sun-warmed cherry tomato of the season and eating it right there, dirt and all. But here is where we backyard growers can get nervous. This is Minnesota. Our weather loves to throw curveballs, and waiting too long to harvest means losing our hard work to such things as sudden hailstorms (yes, it’s a thing), persistent pests, or even an early autumn frost. Harvesting your tomatoes at the right time ensures the best flavor and prevents loss to pests or extreme weather. When trying to get perfect flavor while protecting your harvest, one logical trick is to ripen tomatoes indoors without sacrificing taste by picking fruits when they reach their mature size and begin changing color (the "breaker stage"). Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need to leave your tomatoes on the vine until they are fully red. In fact, pulling them a little early is often the smartest move you can make. For that perfect tomato, let’s talk about picking (the When and the How), along with post-harvest secrets of the storage process. When to Pick The Breaker Stage: The ideal time to harvest is when the tomato is blushing (about 30% to 40% full color). Once they reach this stage, they are as sweet as they will ever be. Hot or Wet Weather: If you are expecting a heatwave (over 90 degrees Fahrenheit) or heavy rain, pick blushing tomatoes immediately. This prevents sunscald and splitting. Firmness: Gently squeeze the tomato. It should feel firm with just a slight, soft give. Photo Credit: www.ruralsprout.com How to Pick Do Not Pull: Pulling the fruit can damage the main stem and invite disease. Use Pruners: Ideally use sharp bypass pruners or scissors to clip the stem about 1–2 inches above the fruit. This allows the small green cap (calyx) to stay on the fruit, prolonging its freshness. Handle Gently: Tomatoes bruise easily, so place them in a single layer in a basket or tray. Harvest Process Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to place tomatoes. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade and should not be used. Clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) are recommended when picking tomatoes of any size or color. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing tomatoes into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce. Discard tomatoes that have signs of nibbling, and or have visible animal feces on them. Post-Harvest & Storage Ripening Indoors: Leave partially colored tomatoes on your kitchen counter. Cover them loosely with a tea towel. One way to speed the process naturally, is to place a ripe banana or apple nearby. Important Storage Warnings: It is not a good practice to place fresh tomatoes in the refrigerator. Temperatures below 55°F ruin the texture, leaving the flesh mealy and flavorless. We have such a short growing season in Minnesota we want to be ready to harvest tomatoes, for a multitude of uses such as: Sauces & soups Salads & salsas: e.g. caprese salads, bruschetta, and gazpacho; Sandwiches & toppings (BLT-the greatest sandwich) Preserves-jams jellies and Skincare: Tomato extracts are naturally rich in vitamin C and are frequently used in home remedies to brighten skin and reduce dark spots. No matter which of these are your reasons to grow tomatoes, our common goal is a productive growing season and a great harvest. For a clear visual demonstration of the perfect time to pick and how to harvest without damaging the plant see these videos: video 1 , video 2 (1, 2). The resources below also include a brief description of tomato problems including pests (3) and more on growing and harvesting vegetables in your garden (4). These last two resources are University of Minnesota Master Gardener articles. In addition, there is a fascinating article from a Master Gardener from the University of Vermont on the History of the Tomato (5). Who knew tomatoes originated from the Aztecs? You have worked hard to produce beautiful, delicious tomatoes in your garden. Complete the process by smart harvesting and storage techniques. Then – enjoy! Photo Credit: www.clamorworld.com Resources. The Perfect time to harvest a tomato. Joe Gardener https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LedqNa6g80k ; Harvesting Tomatoes . Penn State Extension. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-koSjUj7kU ; Tomato Problems : Janice Gestner, Master Gardener | DCMGV Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/bythemonth/tips-for-safely-growing-and-harvesting-vegetables-and-fruit-in-your-garden ; A History of Tomatoes | University of Vermont Homegrown tomatoes by John Denver. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwRn7A-TWrQ ;

< Back Cool Season Vegetables for Spring Planting Marjory Blare, Master Gardener There are a number of “cool season” vegetables that can be planted outdoors in early spring. Get a head-start on your planting by starting your seeds indoors and planting them out when the temperature is right. Cool season vegetables can be planted out much earlier than, for example, tomatoes or peppers. You can seed indoors as much as six to eight weeks before the last frost date! Read this article for valuable information about seeding and planting “cool season” vegetables. Cool Season Vegetable Wisdom Here are some tips for growing “cool season vegetables:” The best way to get an early harvest is to prepare your garden in the fall. But if you didn’t, you can make up for it by first cleaning up any debris and then warming the soil with black plastic. If you want to get out in the garden ASAP, row covers and low tunnels can help to create a warmer growing environment for your plants. The last frost for Dakota county is around May 2nd. The northern half of Dakota county is zone 5a and the southern is 4b, make sure your seeds are rated for these zones. Specific crops vary, but the ideal temperatures for cool-season vegetables are in the 50°- 60° range for the first month of growth. Use a soil thermometer to check soil temperature. Use the right set-up to start seeds indoors: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#types-of-grow-lights-2651610 and visit the Dakota County Master Gardeners YouTube channel for videos on seed starting. Starting spring crops under lights can provide a few weeks of optimal growing temperatures. The transplants will be able to photosynthesize better because of a greater leaf area. Your plants will usually mature more before temperatures get too hot. Older plants are better able to withstand feeding damage from early spring insect pests like flea beetles and cabbage maggots. Cool season vegetables such as Arugula, Chinese cabbage, Bok choy, Peas, and Parsnips can be direct-seeded as soon as the soil is workable. “Omero” cabbage Chinese Cabbage, Bok Choy, Spinach and Swiss chard can be started under lights or direct-seeded. Gurney’s ‘Goliath’ Spinach Cauliflower is best planted mid-summer for a fall crop. Harden-off your seedlings before planting them out: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#hardening-off-seedlings-1179860 There are many edible, cold-tolerant flowers, and herbs, that can be started under lights. Take a look at the chart below for some great ideas. Vegetable Days to Harvest Start seeds Transplant Varieties Broccoli 85-100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Green Magic, ‘Super Dome’, ‘Jade Cross’ Brussels Sprouts < 100 7-Mar - 21-Mar 18-April ‘Gustus’, ‘Hestia’, Cabbage 78 22-Feb - 4-April 4-April - 2-May ‘Ruby Perfection’, ‘Tendersweet’, ‘Omero’ Collards 60-80 8-Feb - 7-Mar 4- April ‘Tiger’, ‘Ole Timey Blue’, ‘Cascade Glaze’ Green Onions 8-10 weeks 25-Jan - 8-Feb 4-April ‘Feast’, ‘Deep Purple’, ‘White Spear’ Kale 25-65 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Rainbow Lacinato’, ‘Dazzling Blue’, ‘Black Magic’ ‘Toscano’ Kohlrabi 45-60 22-Feb - 7-Mar 4-April ‘Kolibri’, ‘Kossak’, ‘Purple Vienna’ Leeks 80-145 8-Feb - 22 Feb 18-April ‘Tivi’, ‘Electra’, ‘Titian’ ‘Varna’ Lettuce 30-70 29-Feb - 14-Mar 4-April - 11-April ‘Esmerelda’, ‘Little Gem’ ‘Red Salad Bowl’, *Find more information on dates at: https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/seed-planting-schedule-calculator.html For Master Gardener-recommended varieties of many vegetables and flowers, here is the link to 42 years of University of Minnesota Extension seeds trials: Tivi Leeks Now is the right time to plan for starting seeds indoors! Happy gardening! Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Marjory Blare, Photo 2 – Natalie Hoidal, University of Minnesota Extension, Photos 3 – 5 – Marjory Blare

< Back How to Pick the Best Perennials for Your Garden Karna Berg, Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Master Gardener May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. This article will help you choose the best perennials for your garden. May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. And while we can achieve season-long color by planting annuals every year, there is much to be gained by planting perennials that will return year after year. Filling your garden with perennials is more economical than planting annuals every year, perennials – especially native perennials – are beneficial to our environment, and with some planning, perennials will provide a colorful display all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. Zone Awareness A beautiful plant meant for Arizona or Washington will not like it here in Minnesota. Perennials that are likely to make it through our Minnesota winters need to be identified as Zone 3 or 4. We are all tempted by a Zone 5 plant now and then, and some of them will make it in a sheltered spot or with some babying, but the risk is that just when that plant gets to its mature size, a nasty winter it doesn’t like comes along and it’s a goner. Light Matters Then there is the issue of light. If you put a shade loving plant in a sunny spot, it may make it but will require more watering and could disappoint you with burned leaves and wilting flowers. If you put a sun loving plant in a shady spot, it will not be happy. It may live a few years but never look like the picture on the tag that made you bring it home. So, consider the amount of sun in the spot in your garden calling for a new plant. If the tag says full sun, that spot should get 6 - 8 hours of direct sun every day. If the tag says part sun or shade, the spot should get 3 - 6 hours of direct light. Any plant that will make it in less than 3 hours of direct sun a day should be marked for full shade. Soil Hospitality Most plants will do well in “loamy” (equal parts sand, silt and clay) soil but most of us in Dakota County will not have such hospitable soil. If you have a lot of clay in your garden, know that it will hold water for extended periods of time. If you put a plant there that loves to have its feet dry out between watering, it may not do well. The opposite is also true, some plants like a lot of water and wet feet. They would probably do better in that clay. As for sandy soil, it will drain quickly, so those water loving plants will not be happy. Get to know your soil and learn which plants are likely to prosper in it. It is also important to know if your soil has the nutrients necessary for plant health. You can get your soil tested at the University of Minnesota and take steps to improve your soil test, if necessary. Bloom Time Most perennials will bloom for 2 – 4 weeks in a season. If you want to have plants blooming in your garden all season, pay attention to what time period a plant will bloom. You don’t want all the perennials in your garden to bloom in June or July. With a little research, you can plant a variety of perennials that will bloom at different times throughout the season and give you the color show that you desire. But don’t discount characteristics of plants other than blooms that can provide beauty and interest. Many plants have a beautiful structure or interesting leaves or a different leaf color that can provide interest even when the plant is not blooming. Resources to Choose the Best Plants for Your Garden Fortunately, there are easy-to-use resources to help you select the best perennials for your garden site. Try this University of Minnesota Extension site for plants that do well in a variety of conditions. And, check out these award-winning Minnesota-friendly perennials . For a good reference book on Minnesota plants, try - Perennials for Minnesota and Wisconsin , by Don Engebretson and Don Williamson, published by Lone Pine Publishing USA. We all experiment at times, trying a plant in a spot that’s iffy. Sometimes they make it sometimes they don’t. That’s part of the fun of gardening. But for a sure thing, it pays to pay attention to the rules! While nothing will make a plant fool proof, at least it then has a better chance of thriving. Photo credits: Karna Berg (all)

< Back Shrubs With Fall Fireworks Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener As the crisp air of autumn settles over Minnesota, the landscape transforms into a vibrant canvas of fiery reds, golden yellows, and deep oranges. While the towering maples and oaks often steal the spotlight, a stunning variety of fall color shrubs add rich layers and texture to the seasonal display. From the brilliant red foliage of the red chokeberry to deep purple leaves of the Flaviramea yellow stem dogwood, these hardy shrubs not only thrive in Minnesota’s climate but also bring dramatic fireworks of color to gardens, parks, and natural areas. Their dazzling hues and low-maintenance nature make them a must-have for anyone looking to extend the beauty of fall well into the season. Read this article to see which shrubs shine bright in the fall. Cause of color change in fall leaves: Fall color in leaves is driven by three pigments: chlorophyll, carotenoids and anthocyanins. Chlorophyll, the green pigment, is crucial for photosynthesis during the growing season. In the fall, the day length shortens and temperatures cool, which triggers plants to prepare for winter by reducing chlorophyll production. When chlorophyll production stops, the green color fades, revealing the yellow and orange hues of carotenoids. Also, anthocyanins, which give red and purple colors, are produced in late summer and early fall as photosynthesis slows down. Environmental factors, like warm days and cool nights enhance anthocyanin production, leading to vibrant colors. Not every shrub species produces carotenoids or anthocyanins in equal quantities. This is what creates the difference in fall color from species to species: Intensity and duration of leaf color varies with each season : Weather conditions in early fall largely determine the intensity and duration of leaf color. The best fall color shows when days in early fall are sunny and mild, and nights are cool but remain above freezing. Long periods of cloudy, rainy weather or a hard freeze in early fall will mute fall colors. Obtaining a fall shrub fireworks display : Continue to show off your beautiful garden in the fall, after the summer blooms have disappeared, with some of these shrubs: Limelight Hydrangea Chokeberry: Black chokeberry, like the "Viking" variety, yields spectacular, bright red autumn foliage and is known for less suckering, compact growth and large berries after white spring flowers. Note: The chokeberry is considered a good substitute to the burning bush, which is now considered a restrictive noxious weed in Minnesota. https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/burning-bush Redosier Dogwood: The versatile, fast-growing dogwood reveals bright red or yellow stems as the season progresses. Some varieties, like the 'Flaviramea', bring red-purple fall foliage, too. Hydrangea: Choose from many Minnesota hardy hydrangea shrubs that explode with enthusiasm in the summer months and, then, grant us all an encore of mauves, greens and golden-brown flower heads in the fall. ‘Limelight' hydrangea starts with a lime-colored summer display and ends with deep pink as it ages. Staghorn Sumac: This native shrub exhibits bright reds and oranges in the fall and works well in a larger area. ‘Tiger-eyes’ sumac is a smaller selection of staghorn sumac, requiring less space in your garden. It boasts chartreuse green foliage in the spring, yellow foliage during the summer and fiery orange foliage in the fall. Staghorn Sumac There are many more shrubs that provide a pleasing color display in the fall. Maximize the color blast of your Minnesota garden with the endless fall color shrub varieties listed in the sources below. SOURCES: https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-fall-color-faq https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/trees-and-shrubs-great-fall-color https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/black-chokeberry https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/burning-bush https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/redosier-dogwood https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/serviceberry https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/trees-and-shrubs https://extension.umn.edu/news/growing-hydrangea-minnesota https://trees.umn.edu/tiger-eyes-sumac-rhus-typhina-bailtiger Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2), University of Missouri, Integrated Pest Management (3)

< Back July in Your Garden - Enjoy and Maintain Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s July in your garden! Hopefully, you planted serial perennials and they are moving through their bloom periods nicely; your annuals are in full bloom and your vegetables are noticeably growing. This is what we longed for during those long winter months. So, take time to sit back and just enjoy the fruits of your labor and the gift of summer in Minnesota. But, of course, in order to keep your garden looking its best. This article points out a few things to be mindful of this month. It’s July in your garden! Hopefully, you planted serial perennials and they are moving through their bloom periods nicely; your annuals are in full bloom and your vegetables are noticeably growing. This is what we longed for during those long winter months. So, take time to sit back and just enjoy the fruits of your labor and the gift of summer in Minnesota. But, of course, in order to keep your garden looking its best, there are a few things of which we should be mindful this month. Let’s take a look. Tidy up your perennial and annual flowers . Deadhead faded flowers by pruning the stem to slightly above the first set of leaves. Although, most Minnesota perennials don’t rebloom because of our short growing season, there are some plants that will provide another show after deadheading or pruning (catmint, daylilies, coneflower, salvia, spirea). However, don’t expect quite the vigorous show as the first bloom. Most annuals will be refreshed by a careful pruning. Photo credit: Northern Gardener, Minnesota Horticultural Society If you haven’t already done so, prune spring-flowering shrubs. For more on pruning spring-flowering shrubs, read this article . Some perennials, like irises, should be divided in late July to early August. Want more information about dividing irises? Here is a great article . If you put your houseplants outside this summer, check on them regularly to make sure they are managing the outside weather. Fertilize them more often when they are growing and move them into shade or inside if they appear stressed. Heat - too hot to grow . While we may enjoy the heat, some of your plants may not. Some vegetables slow their growth during the hot days of summer. During days when the weather reaches sustained temperatures of 80s and 90s, vegetables like cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes or beans may not ripen. Also, wait to prune your plants, as pruning is another stressor. Apparently, bees also don’t like it hot. When the temperatures reach 90 degrees, many bees slow down and pollinate less. Not much can be done but waiting out the hot temperatures. We know that the weather will eventually cool down. Photo credit: Julie Harris Keep weeding during hot weather as weeds compete for water with your precious plants. Water wisely . You planted the plants and probably spent some money to make your garden look great. Don’t let the plants wither away in the hot July sun. Note that the average garden needs about an inch of rain per week. During extreme heat, some plants, especially container plants, may need watering more often. But water wisely. Make sure you know your city’s watering restrictions, as many limit watering to certain days of the week. Water plants in the morning as this allows the plants and soil to absorb more water; the heat of the day causes more evaporation. Drip irrigation is preferred because water is deposited directly into the soil. If watering by hand, water as close to the surface as possible. Photo credit: Natalie Hoidal, University of Minnesota Extension Deal with insects and diseases wisely . Get to know your beneficial insects from your destructive ones ( read this article ). One of the most despised destructive insects that appears this time of year is the Japanese beetle . The University of Minnesota suggests not killing Japanese beetles immediately after they emerge. Why? Winsome flies lay their eggs on the beetles and kill them. They appear as large white spots on the beetles’ bodies. ( For more on Japanese Beetles .) Photo credit University of Minnesota Extension Squash bugs and squash borer appear this time of year. Squash bugs lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves. Squash vine borer lay their eggs at the base of plants. Watch your tomatoes for early blight or blossom end rot . Cucumbers are susceptible to powdery mildew as are other plants. Some of your vegetables or herbs may be ready for harvesting (ex., basil, cilantro, dill). Pinch off the top leaves to encourage more growth and for eating, of course! Take care of your damaged trees and shrubs . Summer storms can wreak havoc with our trees and shrubs. When trees have ragged wounds, they do not heal well. Cut off smaller branches with a sharp pruner. Call an arborist if you have extensive damage to your trees. Lawn care . Grass also requires about an inch of water a month. Generally, lawns benefit from more deep watering less often. Read this article for information about watering lawns. Hold off on spraying herbicides in the lawn until fall when temperatures are cooler and the roots start to pull the energy into their crowns. Most herbicides are less effective, anyway, when applied in very hot weather. Manually pull weeds during this time. Likewise, don’t fertilize during hot weather as that can damage your grass. Increase the mowing height by an inch during mid-summer to improve the lawn's ability to tolerate stress caused by heat and drying winds. Planting Fall Vegetables . You can start to direct-sow fall vegetables when your earlier vegetables have flowered (bolted). Cabbage, carrots, beets, and broccoli are good fall crops. Look at this article for ideas about vegetables to plant now for a fall harvest. Alternatively, you can plant a cover crop for your vegetable garden. This will improve your soil and give you a break from growing and harvesting. Performing garden maintenance may not be as fun as planting and harvesting; but engaging in a few healthy practices in mid-summer will allow you to enjoy a healthy and beautiful garden for the entire growing season. It’s worth it! Photo credit: www.backyardfocus.com References: https://extension.umn.edu/news/july-garden-checklist https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/ag-hub/ag-topics/crop-production/diseases-insects-and-weeds/weeds/herbicides-and-hot-weather https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/how-excessive-heat-affects-vegetable-garden https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-hot-weather https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/mowing-practices-healthy-lawns https://northerngardener.org/july-garden-chores/

< Back The Effects of Drought on Trees Lisa Olson, Master Gardener I have heard it said tongue in cheek that Minnesota’s average weather is the midpoint between two ridiculous extremes, because when we talk about averages, it can be misleading. Sometimes it happens that one huge deluge of rain will offset a long dry spell, at least on paper, where the average rainfall for the month or year may appear as normal in the record books. But those long drought periods are not so easily erased in the lives of the trees. According to the US Forest Service, healthy trees mean… Healthy people: 100 trees remove 53 tons of carbon dioxide and 430 pounds of other air pollutants per year. Healthy communities: Tree-filled neighborhoods lower levels of domestic violence and are safer and more sociable. Healthy environment: One hundred mature trees catch about 139,000 gallons of rainwater per year. Homeowner savings: Strategically placed trees save up to 56 percent on annual air-conditioning costs. Evergreens that block winter winds can save 3 percent on heating. Better business: Consumers shop more frequently and longer in tree-lined commercial areas and are willing to spend more. Higher property values: Each large front yard tree adds to a home’s sale price. One thing that helps to keep trees healthy is a consistent, sufficient amount of rainfall. Extended dry periods, even if followed by enough rain to offset the deficit in the record books, will still have a detrimental effect on trees. During an extended dry spell, young trees will be the first to show the effects, while older, mature trees with large root systems may take three to five years to show outward signs of drought effects and at that point it may be too late for them to recover. Additionally, droughts are getting worse. Due to global warming, the increase in average temperature amplifies the effects of drought. Hot and dry is much worse than cool and dry. Higher temperatures mean evaporation increases which means soil dries out faster and trees transpire more. As a result, trees have evolved strategies to cope with drought conditions. One strategy a tree may employ is to close its stomata, or leaf pores, to minimize transpiration. Transpiration is the evaporation of water in plant leaves. A large oak tree can give transpire a whopping 40,000 gallons of water per year. 10% of the moisture in the atmosphere comes from transpiration. With the pores closed, besides preventing transpiration, the tree is unable to take in carbon dioxide which is critical to the process of photosynthesis. Without the ability to make food, it becomes dependent on the energy it has stored to keep itself alive. Symptoms can include scorched, wilted, or rolled leaves, or early fall color. A tree may drop some or all of its leaves to further prevent transpiration. As a tree uses up its reserve energy, growth will stop and twigs and branches begin to die back. Symptoms of drought stressed trees will occur from the top of the tree down, and from the outside toward the center. In other words, the extremities are the first areas to show damage. Damage caused by drought may not show up until the winter when a normally resilient tree becomes affected by sunscald, frost-splitting, or its weakened branches break from heavy snow. Another secondary effect of drought is that a weakened tree is more susceptible to disease and insect damage. Widespread areas of damage from emerald ash borer or diseases like oak wilt or other diseases are more prevalent when trees are stressed. One area of damage on a tree cannot be easily observed for damage. Most tree roots are in the top six to 24 inches of soil making them extremely vulnerable to dry periods. https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-lateral4.shtml This leads us to what we can do to minimize the effects of drought on our trees. Water using good practices. Slow, deep watering is critical. Water every five to seven days or more often if the temperature soars above 95 degrees. Place a shallow can where you are sprinkling to be sure at least two inches of water are slowly applied. Be sure to water the entire root area. Roots spread at least two to three times farther than the dripline of the tree. Another factor regarding watering is that any plants growing above the tree roots are also competing for water, so increase the amount of water if other plants are present and be sure to remove any weeds. A couple inches of mulch, but not touching the base of the tree, is a good alternative to grass under a tree. The best way to see if water is getting to the roots is to dig a hole approximately 10 inches deep to see if a sufficient amount of water is getting down to that depth from your watering. An area of heavy clay soil may seem saturated if the water is puddling, but in fact the water may just be sitting on the surface as it takes a long time for water to infiltrate clay. Young, newly planted trees will need more frequent watering until their roots are developed. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources put together this video How to Water a Tree for tips on watering newly planted trees. While it may be tempting to water a little bit every day instead of deep watering once a week, shallow watering will cause the roots all to move closer to the surface where they are more likely to be affected by the extreme weather conditions and unable to grow deeper where more water may be available. For best results, water in the morning and consider using a soaker hose. Avoid pruning stressed trees. Healing the wounds uses up the energy the tree is trying to conserve just to survive. If you are planting new trees, choose your plant wisely. Always consider the site where the tree will be living and select a plant that can tolerate the conditions. If you are interested in learning more about the effects of drought on trees, the links below include helpful information! https://www.fs.usda.gov/learn/trees https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/drought_monitor.html https://news.iu.edu/live/news/28084-young-trees-more-susceptible-to-drought-but-also https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/healthy-roots-and-healthy-trees-2-926/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4518277/ https://environment.yale.edu/news/article/brodersen-drought-and-tree-mortality-science-reveals-harsh-future-for-forests https://www.mass.gov/doc/citizen-forester-june-2017/download https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2016-07-08-drought-impacts-trees-years-come#:~:text=Many%20trees%20will%20take%20three,to%20insect%20and%20disease%20infestations . https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/long-term-drought-effects-on-trees-shrubs https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-lateral4.shtml https://extension.umn.edu/how/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard https://extension.umn.edu/my-minnesota-woods/caring-trees-dry-weather https://extension.umn.edu/natural-resources-news/avoid-pruning-drought-stressed-trees https://extension.missouri.edu/news/how-to-help-your-trees-recover-from-drought-5728 https://www.noaa.gov/jetstream/ll-leaf Photo Credit: National Drought Mitigation Center (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Lisa Olson (3), University of Florida (4)

< Back Guarding the Gardener: Cold Injury Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Most Minnesotans spend the month of January by a nice warm fire, or at least by a nice warm TV. Not so, the avid gardener! There are things to do, last minute trimming, tipping a floribunda rose that you missed in October, cleaning up all those dead stalks that didn’t get clipped. But working outside in Minnesota in January can lead to cold injury. An unwary gardener can easily lose bits and pieces of his anatomy out in the yard if he's not respectful of the cold. Read this article to help yourself to keep safe in the winter “garden.” Most Minnesotans spend the month of January by a nice warm fire, or at least by a nice warm TV. Not so, the avid gardener! There are things to do, last minute trimming, tipping a floribunda rose that you missed in October, cleaning up all those dead stalks that didn’t get clipped. Spring is just around the corner, so get to work! Unfortunately, weather that's good for winter gardening isn’t necessarily good for winter gardeners. Of course, I'm talking about cold injury, something that’s always a potential winter danger up here in the Northern Midwest. An unwary gardener can easily lose bits and pieces of his anatomy out in the yard if he's not respectful of the cold. Not all of us have the luxury of a heated greenhouse. Typically, you're out late in the afternoon, trying to get just a few garden chores done. The sun is waning and the wind is picking up on a frigid stretch of garden. That's an ideal set-up for freezing some part of your anatomy--frostbite! The mildest form of frostbite is frostnip , something that almost all of us have experienced. First, your skin pales or turns red and feels very cold. Keep trying to clip off all those “witches’ brooms” and you start feeling prickling and numbness in the exposed skin. As you finally head back to the house and heat up, your skin warms and you may feel pain and tingling. Frostnip doesn't permanently damage the skin but it sure can be uncomfortable! If you just have to get all those chores done, no matter what and your cold exposure increases you will progress to " superficial frostbite ." The skin that was previously red from frostnip turns a pale white. As you rewarm, the skin may look mottled, blue or purple. You may notice stinging, burning and swelling. A fluid-filled blister sometimes appears 24 to 36 hours later. With superficial frostbite you could have some permanent tissue damage. If you stay out working in the bitter cold even longer, you can progress to severe (deep) frostbite . Here the skin and underlying tissues freezes solid. The exposed finger, toe or nose becomes numb. All sense of cold, pain, or discomfort is lost. The joints don't bend. The muscles don't work. Again, blisters may pop up 24 to 48 hours later. The underlying skin then turns black and hard as tissue dies. You're in big trouble! If you are experiencing anything more severe than frostnip, you should seek medical attention. Of course, there are a number of things you can do to protect yourself from getting into that situation. First of all, wear suitable clothing. That seems like a no-brainer, but how often do you go outside to do chores that “will just take a minute” and stay an hour? The risk of frostbite increases dramatically in temperatures below 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Wind chills below - 16 degrees Fahrenheit can cause severe frostbite in less than 30 minutes. A number of things can increase your chances of getting frostbite. Alcohol or drugs, smoking, dehydration, mental or physical exhaustion all lower your resistance to frostbite. Being at high altitude reduces oxygen supply to tissues and allows damage to occur more easily. Keep that in mind if you are taking a winter vacation to the ski slopes. One final caution: if you or someone with you begins to experience intense shivering, slurred speech, loss of coordination or drowsiness, get out of the cold fast and seek medical attention. These are signs of hypothermia--a lowering of your body core temperature. If that continues, loss of consciousness, heart rhythm disturbance and death can follow. All that “getting ready for spring” stuff can wait ‘till spring! Photo Credits: Wikimedia Commons (1), vriethael.deviantart.com (All Creative Commons) (2)