< Back How to Share Your Plants Safely Sharing plants from our gardens is a common and gratifying practice among gardeners. But in these times, we must know how to share plants safely. Safe from what? Jumping worms have become a significant and difficult problem for Minnesota gardens. This particular type of worm has the ability to ravage your garden soil and weaken or kill your plants. This article will help you learn more about this pest and show you how you can still share your plants safe from the spread of jumping worms. Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The Dakota County Master Gardener Plant Sale is scheduled soon. As we plan to share the lovely garden flowers abound in Dakota County, we will be mindfully bare rooting the plants before donating to the sale . If you are planning to share plants from your garden with others this summer, bare rooting them is the safe way to do it. Why bare root?! The goal of bare rooting plants is to prevent the spread of jumping worms, which are an invasive species of worms in the United States. The worms can produce significant destruction in your garden by severely impacting the soil structure of your garden and reducing or destroying plant growth. Read this article from the University of Minnesota Extension to learn more about jumping worms in Minnesota. Prevention is key to limiting the spread of invasive jumping worms. Since soil, plant roots and mulch are the common materials most likely to spread the jumping worms, you can play an integral role in minimizing jumping worm issues. Note that in the spring, jumping worms are either cocoons or juveniles. The cocoons are the size and color of soil aggregates so they are difficult to see. Juvenile jumping worms may look like other juvenile earthworms at this point, without the telltale cream color collar, so they are hard to find or identify. These worms and juvenile worms can easily hide inside the roots of your plant. You can still share your plants and dramatically reduce the spread of jumping worms by taking steps to “bare root” your plants. The remainder of this article will provide step-by-step instructions about how to do so. How to Bare Root Your Plants Before sharing your beautiful garden plants, please take the following steps to bare root your donations. SUPPLIES: Drop cloth for work area; your plant; deep tray or wash tub; chopsticks or bamboo skewer; 4-5 five gallon buckets, with all but one half full of water; sheets of newspaper; paper towel; sterile soil; twine; label; 5 gallon elastic-top paint strainer and a gallon sized plastic bag. DIRECTIONS : 1. Prepare the work area with a dropcloth. Take the plant out of its pot over the deep tray/washtub. Using the chopsticks/skewer or your hands, completely remove all the dirt directly into the tray. 2. Rinse the roots in 2-3 of the water buckets until clean. 3. Examine the roots to ensure no dirt or potential jumping worm cocoons remain. 4. Position one sheet of newspaper into a diamond shape. Set a paper towel in the middle of the newspaper. 5. Lay the plant on the paper towel. Sprinkle sterile soil on the roots. 6. Wrap the bottom of the newspaper up on the roots and dirt. Fold in both sides of the newspaper over the roots. Tie the packet with twine. 7. Attach a label with the plant’s name to the twine. Write the plant’s name on the newspaper, too. 8. Put the tied packet into a bucket of clean water (ie., a bucket of water not used to rinse the roots) to hydrate it initially, removing it after soaked. Water the packet daily. 9. Return the dirt from the washtub to the old plant pot. Put the dirt back where it came from. 10. Pull the elastic paint strainer over the empty bucket. Dump everything collected in the other 5 gallon buckets (that you used to rinse off the plant’s dirt) into the empty bucket. Remove the strainer and the strained material into a gallon sized plastic bag. Seal the bag and discard it in the trash. Tip the bucket to empty the water into the area where the plant originated. Clean the dropcloth to prevent inadvertent spread of the worms/cocoons. NOTE : Since no earthworms are native to Minnesota, drop any worms found while bare rooting into a plastic bag, seal it and put it in the trash. Do not compost. With a little practice, you’ll get the hang of bare rooting. A practice well worth it to keep your garden healthy. Resources Bare Root Instructions Credit to Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Video instructions from Dakota County Master Gardeners. Included in this video is another video by Julia Vanatta. Special credit must be given to her. Without her research and demonstration classes this article could not have been written. Julia promotes sustainable gardening as a volunteer for Wild Ones Twin Cities. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3), Longfield Gardens (from Creative Commons licenses) (1)

< Back Lasagna Soup Lasagna Soup Too many tomatoes? Basil that needs a recipe? This month’s Vegetable Section features “Lasagna soup” that uses both garden vegetables. As fall days become cooler, we can all use a comforting, hearty soup. Lasagna soup is a hearty meal option and with the addition of focaccia bread and a green vegetable, you will have a comfy meal fit for company. Click on the following link to view the recipe. The site adds information on how to freeze lasagna soup, a crockpot version and other substitutions. There is also a link to a quick marinara sauce. Replace purchased sauce with cooked garden tomatoes. Stew 10 or more medium to large tomatoes and follow the recipe. Bow tie or other shaped pasta may be substituted if lasagna noodles are not on the pantry shelf. Top the soup with the following ricotta/parmesan topping. Lasagna Soup Topping 6 tbsp shredded mozzarella cheese 1/2cup part skim ricotta cheese 3 tbsp grated parmesan cheese 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup fresh basil chiffonade Bon Appetit! Photo credits: Gail Maifeld (all)

< Back What to Do with an Overcrowded Perennial Garden Linda Stein, Master Gardener Are your perennial plants over crowded? Are you planning to rip out a section of your garden to plant new shrubs or plants this year? In certain situations, Dakota County Master Gardeners may be able to help you by harvesting your plants and selling them at our annual Plant Sale in May to support our programs in the county. In the past, most of the plants that were sold in our annual Plant Sale were from member’s gardens or were vegetables and herbs started by our members in a greenhouse. However, we also sell plants harvested from the yards of non-master gardeners. We plan to continue this tradition for our next sale in May 2022, creating teams that will dig out the plants, bare root the plants to avoid the risk of spreading jumping worms, and pot the plants for sale. This is a win-win situation. Your perennials are thinned out and moved, and we can sell the plants to support our programs throughout Dakota County. (Please note that we only have a limited ability to accept hostas and daylilies for this program.) If you would like us to consider digging in your garden in the spring, contact me - lindasternstein@gmail.com . Tell me what types of plants you have. When April comes, I’ll contact you to do a walk through and set up a time to dig in your garden.

< Back Don’t Let Powdery Mildew Haunt You! Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Powdery mildew is a very common garden fungus. This fungus was even more prevalent last year when our abundant rainfall increased our summer humidity. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Read this very informative article to understand what powdery mildew is, how it affects plants, what you can do to prevent it and how to control it when it happens. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Remember how the weather affected your garden last year? Dakota County received an extra 4” to 5” of rain and the average temperature during the 2024 gardening season compared with the average for the previous 25 years. The extra rainfall increased humidity and helped produce an abundance of powdery mildew in many Minnesota gardens. If your garden plants suffered from powdery mildew, you are not alone. Powdery mildew is one of the most prevalent crop diseases in the world,,3 affecting hundreds of types of plants including many common garden vegetables and flowers. This article explores what you can do to reduce the chances of last year’s powdery mildew returning to haunt your garden this year. What is powdery mildew? Powdery mildew is a fungal disease stemming from several different pathogens that vary by host plant. Plants with early infections of powdery mildew may have yellow spots, dark blotches, discoloring and lesions on leaves, usually on the upper surface of newer leaves and lower leaves. The disease then progresses to include a ghostly-white, powder-like substance (image 1) on leaves and stems. If left unchecked, powdery mildew will quickly spread to cover the plant and wither the leaves and stems. The pathogen can spread from 10% of the leaves to 70% of the leaves in a week2. A severe infection will cause leaves to drop off and can significantly reduce fruit and flower production. The white spores of powdery mildew eventually mature into brown and black pinhead-sized spheres caed cleistothecia or chasmothecia (image 2). Cleistothecia will survive the winter and release new powdery mildew spores in the spring. ,,10 Powdery mildew fungal spores infect only plants’ surface structures to take up nutrients and do not invade interior plant tissues. Therefore, it is rare that powdery mildew kills a plant but the plant may appear to be decimated. 2,10 Minnesota weather and powdery mildew. Powdery mildew requires humidity (but not necessarily the presence of water on the leaves) for spore germination. Humidity refers to the amount of water vapor in the air. Humidity will increase around plants when the ground around the plants is wet and ground moisture steams into the air. Variable relative humidity during the garden season will help promote powdery mildew. Relative humidity refers to the ratio of water vapor in the air versus the maximum water vapor possible in the air at a specific temperature. The maximum water vapor level is lower at lower temperatures. Therefore, for a fixed humidity level, relative humidity rises as the temperature falls. High relative humidity stimulates powdery mildew fungal reproduction while low relative humidity helps disperse fungal spores. Although powdery mildew requires humidity, the disease does not flourish in cool, rainy conditions.5 In fact, extended rainfall can help wash powdery mildew spores off leaves, inhibit germination and potentially kill powdery mildew spores. Powdery mildew spreads most rapidly in warm, cloudy12 weather (60o-80o F) and the spread decelerates in cool and hot weather.5 Note that leaf temperatures on sunny days are warmer than the surrounding air temperatures and leaf temperatures above 95o F are fatal to some (if not all) powdery mildews.2,4 All of the weather preferences mentioned above mean that powdery mildew thrives when days are warm and relatively dry (spreads spores) while nights are warm and humid (germinates spores).5 Unfortunately, this recipe aligns with Minnesota summer conditions making powdery mildew a frequent pathogen in our gardens. Prevent: what to do before a powdery mildew outbreak. While you cannot control the weather, you can minimize garden conditions that encourage powdery mildew. Prevention of powdery mildew should be the primary focus of gardeners because the disease is very difficult to eradicate once the disease is established in a garden.5 Frequently examine leaves and stems for a potential powdery mildew outbreak since early detection and action are critical to reducing the spread of the disease.5,12 Choose sunnier garden spots , when possible, for plant types that are more susceptible to powdery mildew since powdery mildew will grow more in shaded areas. Highly susceptible garden plants include apples, bee balm, begonias, columbine, cucumbers, grapes, lilacs, peas, peonies, phlox, potatoes, rhododendron, roses, rudbeckia, squash and zinnias.6,,,10,12 Increase airflow around plants to help reduce humidity and reduce moisture on plant leaves. Air flow will improve when you thin out plants, pull weeds, prune perennials, stake or trellis plants, and keep a space between plants and solid structures (e.g. keep plants 8”-12” from buildings).3,5,10,11 Avoid over-watering of plants , especially in areas with slow draining soil. Water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves, and water early in the morning to give the plants time to dry out before night fall.3 Plant garden varietals resistant to powdery mildew .5,12 Garden catalogs, seed packets and garden stores should provide information on the disease-resistant characteristics of plants.10,11 In addition, Cornell University provides a database of disease-resistant vegetable varietals. For example, Cornell reports that Avalanche snow peas and Cascadia snap peas are resistant to powdery mildew. Cornell’s 2025 information is based on 2018-22 data and should be confirmed, if possible, with plant-specific information for the current growing season. powdery mildew on Ninebark Control: what to do during a powdery mildew outbreak. If you identify powdery mildew in your garden, you should follow all the powdery mildew prevention recommendations and also take the following actions to help control the outbreak. It is important to act quickly when you diagnose powdery mildew in the garden since the pathogen spreads so rapidly. Trim off infected plant leaves and stems and remove the debris from the garden. Consider removing the entire plant if the infection has progressed significantly or if nearby plants are at risk of becoming infected.5,11 Trim off leaves near the ground and newer leaves and stems of the infected plants. Newer leaves are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Avoid fertilizing late in the season which encourages new plant growth.3,10 Sterilize tools that were used to trim plants infected with powdery mildew before using the tools on healthy plants. Tolerate small outbreaks of powdery mildew. The best management course may be tolerance of powdery mildew when the plant is beyond peak production and surrounding plants are not at risk. You may want to harvest full-grown pumpkins or squash in this situation to avoid powdery mildew attacking the fruit. Pumpkins and squash should last a couple of months if stored in a cool, dark spot after harvesting.11 Fungicides should only be used as a last resort since fungicides can harm both plants and insects.5 There are many fungicides that people have applied in attempts to control powdery mildew including milk, garlic, baking soda, neem oil, horticultural oils, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur and copper. Before choosing a fungicide, be sure to understand if the fungicide is a protectant (e.g. sulfur) or eradicant (e.g. oils) fungicide. Protectant fungicides only work if applied prior to a powdery mildew outbreak and usually require repeat applications. Eradicant fungicides work best if applied after a powdery mildew outbreak but before the outbreak becomes severe. Fungicides will not eliminate powdery mildew after the majority of leaves are infected.10 Be sure to follow any instructions provided on the fungicide packaging.3,6 There are a few specific situations where fungicides should be avoided even though powdery mildew is present in the garden. Fungicides should not be applied to late-season powdery mildew outbreaks when the autumnal leaves are close to dropping since the infection is not as harmful to the plant at that point.8 Fungicides should also not be applied to infected annual flowers or low-value perennial flowers since the fungicides can kill pollinators.10 Note that supporting research is very limited with regards to the efficacy of home remedies (e.g. milk, garlic, baking soda) for powdery mildew prevention or eradication. In addition, preventive and control activities should always be completed regardless of whether or not fungicides are applied. Fungicides are rarely necessary., Minimize: what to do after a powdery mildew outbreak. powdery mildew on peony Powdery mildew can survive winter on both live plants and plant debris. Therefore, powdery mildew is likely to recur once it is in your garden unless you take precautions to control the disease. Autumn and spring clean-ups are critical to breaking the cycle of last year’s powdery mildew outbreak. All annuals that were infected should be pulled and removed from the garden, preferably in autumn but spring cleaning is acceptable. Perennials should be pruned to remove infected plant material and to increase air flow. In addition, any plant debris in and around infected plants should be collected and removed from the garden. Do not till infected plant material into the ground as powdery mildew will continue to live in the plant material. Infected refuse should be burned or composted by a commercial composter. Home composting does not get hot enough for long enough to kill powdery mildew.3,5 Powdery mildew requires plant material to thrive. Therefore, you should not need to treat or remove wood chips or soil from powdery mildew areas. However, if the wood chips appear moldy after a powdery mildew outbreak, you may want to remove the wood chips as a precautionary measure. Because powdery mildew pathogens vary by host plant type, rotating plants (i.e. do not put the same plant type in the same space as last year) is key to minimizing the recurrence of powdery mildew. The following table provides groupings of common garden plants that are affected by the same specific powdery mildew pathogen2. If you had one of the plants shown in a group in your garden last year and those plants were infected by powdery mildew, you should avoid planting any of the plants in the same group in the same spot in your garden this year. Note that some plants are included in multiple groups indicating that those plants may be impacted by more than one powdery mildew pathogen. Powdery Mildew Pathogen Plants Impacted by Specific Pathogen2 Erysiphe cichoracearum Cucumbers, endive, lettuce, melons, potato, pumpkin, squash Erysiphe cruciferarum Cole crops (e.g. broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower), radicchio, radishes, turnips Erysiphe lycopersici Tomatoes Erysiphe pisi Peas Erysiphe heraclei Carrots, parsley, parsnips Erysiphe polygoni Beets Leveillula taurica Artichoke, eggplant, peppers, tomatillos, tomatoes Sphaerotheca fuliginea Beans, black-eyed peas, cucurbits (pumpkins, gourds, squash), okra Photo Credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Michigan State University, http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late- (2), University of Minnesota (3), University of Minnesota, M. Grabowski (4) 1 National Centers for Environmental Information, May-September 2024 compared with May-September 1999-2023, http://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/monitoring/climate-at-a-glance/county/time-series/MN-037/tavg/5/9/1999-2024?base_prd=true&begbaseyear=1999&endbaseyear=2023 2 EOS (Earth Observing System) Data Analytics, “Powdery Mildew: Effective Prevention And Treatment”, http://eos.com/blog/powdery-mildew/#:~:text=Powdery%20mildew%20is%20among%20the,would%20kill%20most%20other%20fungi . 3 Colorado State University, “Powdery Mildews”, http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/powdery-mildews-2-902/ 4 Michigan State University, “Late-season control of powdery mildew in grapes”, Image 2 and content from http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late-season_control_of_powdery_mildew_in_grapes_focus_on_inoculum_managemen 5 Penn State, “Addressing Downy Mildew and Powdery Mildew in the Home Garden”, http://extension.psu.edu/addressing-downy-mildew-and-powdery-mildew-in-the-home-garden#:~:text=In%20some%20plants%2C%20such%20as,oily%20spot%20on%20the%20leaves.&text=Powdery%20mildew%20looks%20like%20flour,across%20the%20top%20of%20leaves . 6 University of California, Davis, “Powdery Mildew on Ornamentals”, http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/powdery-mildew-on-ornamentals/pest-notes/#gsc.tab=0 7 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=2289318 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=228931 8 Iowa State University, “Powdery Mildew- Ornamental plants”, http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/encyclopedia/powdery-mildew-ornamental-plants 9 Cornell University, “Disease Resistant Vegetable Varieties”, http://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties 10 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in the flower garden”, http://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/powdery-mildew-flower-garden#:~:text=How%20to%20identify%20powdery%20mildew,to%20red%20around%20the%20infection . 11 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in flowers and vining vegetables”, http://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/powdery-mildew-flowers-and-vining-vegetables 12 Oklahoma State University, “Pumpkin and Squash Diseases”, http://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/pumpkin-and-squash-diseases.html

< Back Swiss Chard – It’s Like Spinach, But It’s Not Swiss Chard (Chard) is a dark leafy green that can be used raw or cooked. It also freezes well for winter consumption. Chard can be planted any time during the growing season and re-blooms after harvesting. Not only is it nutritious but it looks beautiful in the garden, as well. Read this article to learn why and how to grow Swiss Chard in your garden. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Swiss Chard (Chard) is in the beet family, ( Beta vulgaris) and is very easy to grow. Like spinach, you can direct seed Chard, however, you will want to wait until all danger of frost is past. Unlike spinach, Chard is not sensitive to day length and does not bolt when the days get longer and it gets hot in early summer. Very rarely, if planted too early while temperatures are cold or cool, Chard may bolt. You only need to plant Chard once in the spring and it will keep re-growing after each harvest through Fall. While spinach will regrow if baby leaves are harvested early, it will eventually bolt in early summer. You do not have to plant or replant Chard for a fall crop (which you may want to consider in late August for spinach) and if you miss getting it planted in spring, you can plant it at any time during the growing season. So, if you haven’t planted it yet, go ahead and get some Chard seeds sown. Swiss Chard seedlings You will want to manage the weeds around Chard to prevent it from having to compete for water and nutrients. Keep it regularly watered. If drought conditions exist, leaf growth will slow. As soon as it has sufficient water again, it will resume growing. To harvest Chard, you can pick the leaves at varying sizes based on your preference. Some people will cut the leaves just above the base of the plant (the crown). The leaves do pick up dirt in the stalks and leaves, so you will want to wash it well to avoid a gritty bite. Simply wash well in cool water. You will be able to harvest Chard into the Fall months, sometimes even after the first snowfall. Chard freezes well, requiring simple blanching in boiling water, followed by a cool water bath, and bagging it in a freezer bag. Nutritionally, Swiss Chard provides many important nutrients such as Vitamin K and Vitamin A. It also provides Vitamin C and magnesium and contains antioxidants including beta-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin. It is low in carbohydrates and is low calorie (depending upon how it is cooked). Some studies suggest it can help with blood sugar control, support heart health, reduce blood pressure, and other health benefits. Some articles label it a ‘superfood’. On top of all that goodness, Chard can be a lovely addition to a landscape as the stalks and leaf veins range in color from bright white (Fordhook most common variety), to yellow, gold, green, orange, pink, red, or striped. Some varieties are: “Bright Lights”, “Rainbow”, “Rhubarb”, “Neon Lights”. Paired with annual or perennial flowers, the green, bronze, or purple leaves with their showy veins and stalks add texture and color to containers and flower gardens. Consider adding Swiss Chard to your garden for both its beauty and nutritional values! References: Growing spinach and swiss chard in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-spinach-and-swiss-chard#harvest-and-storage-390412 Swiss Chard https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/swiss-chard/ Healthline: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/swiss-chard Health benefits of swiss chard: https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/284103 Allergy Associates of LaCrosse: https://lacrosseallergy.com/resources/diet-and-nutrition-counseling/superfoods/swiss-chard/ Photo Credits: University of Delaware (1), University of Minnesota Extension, Gardening: Swiss Chard (2), University of Wisconsin Extension (3,4,5,6)

< Back Foraging 101 Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement. Here are some suggestions on how to get started. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Morel mushrooms, the state mushroom of Minnesota, are a prized commodity for top restaurant chefs and home cooks alike. Rarely found in a supermarket, these mushrooms often run over $150 per pound when purchased online. A more frugal solution is simply foraging for the mushrooms—the cost of morels is now only your time. Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement, the “gatherer” portion of the hunter-gatherer society. It requires a connection to the land, a knowledge of what is edible, where certain plants can be found, and when in the year they will be ready for consumption. Once necessary for human survival, foraging is now made superfluous by grocery stores and food manufacturing. Today foraging is a choice, and its popularity is growing each year. For gardeners, foraging is an extension of the practice in the garden. Often what is foraged cannot be cultivated in a home garden—particularly for wild mushrooms, but also for wild onions or other plants. Learning the forageable plants near home, as well as their life cycles, opens up all sorts of possibilities for new plants to eat. Frequently Asked Questions Q: What can I forage in Minnesota? A: Everything from mushrooms and wild fruit to nuts, evergreens, leafy greens, and even cattails. Q: Is foraging just for food? A: No. You can also forage for natural specimens or even art supplies, as many plants and mushrooms such as lobster mushrooms and sumac are sources of dye. Q: Is it legal to forage in Minnesota? A: Sometimes! Double check your laws before taking anything from publicly owned land, and know if you are on national, state, or regional land. It is LEGAL to forage small quantities in MN State Parks as long as it is for home use, not to be sold for a profit. It is ILLEGAL to forage in any Dakota County Regional Park. As for national land like national parks and national forests? The laws are different for each one. Look up rules specific to the national forest or park you want to forage in. Q: Once I have determined that I may legally forage, what’s the best practice for sustainability? A: Take less than 20% of what you find in the wild for most foraged items, and take less than 10% of what you find if it is particularly slow growing, like mosses or lichens. Q: Where can I learn more about foraging? A: A few excellent resources include Euall Gibbons’ 1962 book Stalking the Wild Asparagus , MN chef Alan Bergo’s website ForagerChef.com , and Bergo’s newest book The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora (2021). For more on foraging laws, see Baylen J. Linnekin’s article “Food Law Gone Wild: The Law of Foraging” (2018). https://ir.lawnet.fordham.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2740&context=ulj Photo credit: Kevin Miyazaki/Meredith (Creative Commons)(1)

< Back Gardening with Annuals Shari Dugstad, Dakota County Master Gardener Annual flowers are welcome additions to our yards because they add a wide variety of color to the garden. Unlike most perennials, annuals will often provide colorful flowers throughout the growing season in Minnesota. Planting these colorful gems can be a fun activity for every member of your family and something your whole family can enjoy. This article reviews how to find the best annuals and how you can grow them successfully in your garden. For more information about soil, fertilizing, watering and general care of Annual flowers are welcome additions to our yards because they add a wide variety of color to the garden. Unlike most perennials, annuals will often provide colorful flowers throughout the growing season in Minnesota. Unfortunately, annual flowers are not hardy in Minnesota and must be replanted each year. But planting these colorful gems can be a fun activity for every member of your family. So, let’s review how to find the best annuals and how you can best use them in your garden. There are numerous varieties of annuals to choose from and they are relatively easy to grow. But before buying your annual flowers, consider what you are looking for - size, color, full sun or shade, landscaping enhancement, pollinators, container appropriate, zone or just a favorite flower. Annuals that attract Pollinators If you are interested in annual pollinators to complement your perennial pollinator garden but don’t know where to start, take a look at this University of Minnesota Extension study of more than 30 annual flower varieties. The study found nine flowers that attracted the most pollinators: Music Box Mix sunflower (Helianthus anuus ‘Music Box Mix’) Lemon Queen sunflower (Helianthus annuus ‘Lemon Queen’) Summer Pink Jewel Salvia (Salvia coccinea ‘Summer Jewel Pink’) Purple Fairy Tale Salvia (Salvia verticilliata ‘Purple Fairy Tale’) Orange Fudge Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta ‘Orange Fudge’) Prairie Sun Black-eyed Susan(Rudbeckia hirta ‘Prairie Sun’) Showstar Butter Daisy (Melampodium paludosum ‘Showstar’) Dakota Gold Sneezeweed (Helenium amarum ‘Dakota Gold’) Envy Zinnia (Zinnia elegans ‘Envy’) Click on the study, above, for more information about the characteristics of these annuals. For a longer list of annuals that can be grown in Minnesota, look at this list provided by the University of Minnesota Extension. Top Performing Annuals in Minnesota There are so many annuals to choose from and it can be hard to know which will grow best in Minnesota. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension has conducted trials on various cultivars. You can find lists of the top performing annuals and their features in the flower trials between 2018 and 2024 here . Here are the top ten for 2024: Begonia x hybrida Adora Velvet Red Celosia plumosa Bright Sparks Bright Red bronze Leaf Coleus Premium Sun Crimson Gold Dahlia Virtuoso Pinkerific Impatiens x hybrida SunPatiens Vigorous Purple Kwik kombo Picnic in the Park Mix Lantana Shamrock Rose Gold Lobelia Heatopia Dark Blue Marigold Pretty Yellow Salvia Sallyfun Pure White Dahlia Virtuoso Pinkerific Annuals for Container Gardens Annuals for Container Gardens If you would like to grow annuals in containers, the options are endless. Container gardening provides opportunities to be creative, to experiment with different flowers, to plant flowers with family or children, to enhance your landscape and to add beauty to your garden. Containers are also great way for those who don’t have a yard in which to plant, to add color to their world Containers work great for small spaces like decks and patios. (Note, also, that perennials can be incorporated into your annual containers for an interesting look.) Enjoy the process with container gardening. Before you get started determine what container you will use. A container can be almost anything that will hold soil and has drainage. But the material that they are made of can affect how your plant will grow. Click on this article to learn about the benefits and variables of different kinds of containers. You also need to decide where the containers will be located. Do they need full or partial sun or shade? How big a container do you need? Selecting plants for your containers Will you combine plants or have a single type of plant in the container? If plants are combined, select plants that flourish in the same soil, and have the same watering and light needs. Determine plant size, shape and number of plants for various impacts in the garden - color, interest, complementary to the landscape. Consider the color of the pot that is being used in conjunction with plant selection. An easy way to design a container is to use plants that are ‘thrillers, fillers and spillers.’ ‘Thrillers’ are the focal point and are usually bright, tall plants. ‘Fillers’ are often round, mounding, lower growing plants that make containers look full like begonia, coleus, and geraniums. ‘Spillers’ are plants that hang over the side of the container, like calibrachoa, nasturtium, and sweet potato vines. your containers, here is an article to review. With a little bit of effort this spring, you and your whole family can enjoy the pleasures of annuals in your garden. A little research on your part can result in the best annuals for your yard. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Shari Dugstad (2-4)

< Back Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.) for Tough Growing Sites Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Pussytoes is a cute name for a sturdy native plant. If you are looking for a tough, resilient groundcover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennarias (Pussytoes). The genus Antennaria boasts dozens of species native to the temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. Here in the Northern Midwest, we have two commonly found species: Antennaria neglecta or Lesser Pussytoes and Antennaria plantaginifolia or Plantain-Leafed Pussytoes. Together these two fellows provide great ground covers for various environments where most other plants fear to tread. Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) in spring, with flower buds The Pussytoes derive their name from the silky white flowers which form in tight clusters that resemble a cat’s toe. The plants are dioecious (either male or female). Male plants’ flowers disintegrate rapidly but the female plants’ blooms are longer lived being supplemented by a tuft of awned fruits that look frothy when ripe. Lesser or Field Pussytoes ( Antennaria neglecta ) are found in dry prairies, savannas and open woodlands in difficult, often eroded areas where little else will grow. Thus, they can compete in spite of their small stature. Their basal leaves are only some 3 inches tall and the flower spikes grow to no more than 8 inches. They do well in dry, hot areas with full sun. They are ideal for so-called “hell strips” between urban sidewalks and streets. They spread by rhizomes into masses several feet in width. If you want to increase your plantings, they are easily propagated by division. In contrast, Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes ( Antennaria plantaginifolia ) grows better with more shade than does Lesser Pussytoes. It does just fine in a shady moist area. As a matter of fact, its leaves may burn if the plant is in a location that is too sunny, too dry or too hot. Like Lesser Pussytoes, it will densely cover ground prone to erosion. Its leaves are wider with three noticeable veins. It does bear a resemblance to plantain, a not so popular addition to many suburban lawns. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes also spread by rhizomes and can be propagated by division or grown from seed. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) So, if you are looking for a tough, resilient ground cover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennaria . Photo Credit: flickr.com (1) & gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org (2)

< Back Lop & Lose Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners While March is the ideal time to prune most trees and shrubs in your garden; note that it is NOT the time to prune those that bloom in the spring. Pruning your spring blooming trees and shrubs may kill blooms that are forming. These plants should be pruned right after they bloom in the spring. Read this article for valuable information about pruning some of your most beautiful spring blooming shrubs. Blossoms that is. Patience pays for those spring blooming shrubs and small trees gracing your landscape. While March is the perfect time to prune almost everything else it is several months early for those spring flowering ones. Ideally, the plants listed below are best shaped RIGHT AFTER blooming, before next year’s flower buds are set. Even waiting a month or two after flowering to trim these plants can mean losing next year’s blooms. LILACS Lilacs benefit by pruning AFTER blooming. Lilacs can be pruned very severely for renovation with the understanding that it may take several seasons of growth for a good flower show. Since lilacs live so long they often grow out of their appropriate space in the landscape with dead and unsightly sections. Often shade has been created over them over the years which makes them spindly and the flowers sparse. Pruning helps here but lilacs and shade are not a good mix. Unfortunately, lilacs will regrow from roots so removing them means repeat pruning of the new growth or digging out the roots. FORSYTHIA The bright yellow flowers of forsythia are so welcome in early spring that patience here will definitely be rewarded. This plant tends to be rather rangy in habit and benefits from regular trimming to keep it attractive in all seasons. AZALEA & RHODODENDRON While most specimens really don’t need pruning because they tend to keep a dense, organized structure, some might need restraining, balancing or thinning in the inner areas for more light and air. In northern climates, azaleas tend to create larger, more dense and flower covered specimens if they are planted with more sun rather than more shade as in the south. HYDRANGEA Hydrangeas are of two major categories: flowering on new wood and flowering on old, or last year’s wood. The key to pruning is to know which you have. Ones that flower on new wood can be pruned very aggressively and still produce a summer crop of vegetation and flowers. Ones that flower on last year’s wood should NOT be pruned early but do look better if old blossoms are snipped or snapped off early in the growing season. New flowers will be produced of course but the dead ones will sully the look. MAGNOLIAS Fortunately, Magnolia flower buds are very obvious. They practically scream: “don’t cut me!” Magnolias in a sunny location don’t need much pruning generally but they often do need removal of suckers around the trunk. Mock Orange, Virburnum, Chokeberry, Serviceberry, Ninebark, Weigela, Spirea and Fothergilla are other spring bloomers which, if they need any pruning which most do not, should be pruned after flowering. Photo Credit: Gurneys (1), Michigan Bulb Co. (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3,5) & Julie Harris (4)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.

< Back Wild Yam (Dioscorea villosa): A Decorative Foliage Vine Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Wild yam is the subject of June’s native vine profile. Not to be confused with the edible yams that we buy in the grocery store, wild yam is sometimes marketed as “natural estrogen.” The article explains why wild yam cannot be used in this way and why you might want to add it to your garden for other reasons. Like so many other native plants, wild yam is known by many other names. Some of the more common ones include American yam, Atlantic yam, Barbasco, China root, Colic root and Devil’s bones. Not to be confused with edible yams, wild yam is sometimes marketed today is as a “natural estrogen.” It is purported to be useful as an alternative to estrogen or dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) in treatment of menopausal symptoms. Unfortunately, the human body lacks the enzymes to convert the plant compounds found in yam to either estrogen or DHEA. Although anecdotal testimonials abound, it is important to understand that the biochemistry does not support use of wild yam as a “natural estrogen.” wild yam leaves; Credit: Illinois Wildflowers So why should we consider wild yam as an addition to our native perennials? It is an elegant vine that can be depended upon to weave through fence, trellis or arbor. Likewise, it will ramble through established plantings providing a lush understory for larger beds. Although, as its name implies, it is a close relative to cultivated yams, it is not edible. Yet wild yam’s ornamental value is considerable. Indeed, its heart shaped foliage is attractive throughout the growing season with prominent veining. This makes it a great foliage plant. These leaves turn a golden yellow in the fall, providing a striking accent. Spring and early summer bring flowers in creamy yellow clusters. Winged seed pods follow, green in summer, brown in fall, hanging on in winter as accents. Wild Yam flowers; Credit: Steven Baskauf, Native Plant Trust To grow this delightful native perennial vine, keep in mind that it is dioecious, meaning that it requires both male and female plants for proper flowering and seed production. It is found across the Lower Midwest and into the Upper Midwest as far west as Central Minnesota and southeastern Nebraska. In its native state, it usually is found in moist woods and floodplains as well as in hedgerows. It tolerates full sun but will do well in light to partial shade. One attractive feature of wild yam is its drought tolerance, although it prefers moist, well-drained soils for optimum growth. If you want to try your hand at propagating the vine, you can germinate from seeds or start from division of tubers. Which ever route you try, you’ll be rewarded with an enduring ornamental addition to your landscape.

Garden Prep & Care Avoid Overbuying Seeds Gardening season is over for this year. Or is it? Are you already dreaming and planning for next year’s garden? Soon it will be time to buy seeds. But don’t let your enthusiasm lead you to overbuying seeds. The best way to avoid overbuying is to use a systematic process for planning, purchasing, and storing seeds. Read this article for some tips to help you plan wisely. Read More Beware Garlic Mustard in Early Spring Garlic Mustard may be edible and tasty but unless you are planning to cook with it, you will not want it growing in your yard. One of the first weeds to appear in the spring, Garlic Mustard is a noxious weed that is difficult to get rid of. Read this article to learn how to identify Garlic Mustard and how to control it. Read More Blending Annuals and Perennials for Continuous Summer Bloom Gardens built on perennials alone can shine brilliantly for a few weeks, then settle into quieter stretches. The solution isn’t to abandon perennials, but to partner them with annuals in a way that keeps the show going from late spring to frost. By layering the strengths of both—perennials for structure and rhythm, annuals for reliable, season-long color—you can create a garden that never feels finished but never feels empty either. Read More Cold Stratification for Seed Starting Starting seeds indoors can be a rewarding process for home gardeners. It provides a welcome activity as we anticipate the arrival of spring and it can be more cost-effective than purchasing plants. However, not all seeds are ready to sow directly from the packet and may require some extra preparation and time before sowing. Understanding the germination needs for specific plants is very important. By knowing these requirements, gardeners can successfully start seeds indoors and get a head start on the growing season. Read this article to understand how to provide cold stratification for the plants that need it. Read More Companion Gardens Are the Best Linda Stein confesses that she used to arrange her garden by separating annuals from perennials from vegetables. But she has learned that there are many advantages to mixing these different types of plants in the garden. Read this article to learn more about why you would want to mix these plant types and what types of plants you might consider. As you prepare for the upcoming summer, learn more about mixing and matching your edible plants with flowering perennials and annuals to enhance the beauty of your garden, attract pollinators to plants that will benefit from these critters and reduce the need for pesticides by providing plants that serve as natural repellants. Read More Composting Would you like to save $$$ on your gardening expenses? Homegrown compost can be used to solve various garden challenges while saving you money from buying other product solutions in-store. Read More Cover Crops Cover crops? What are they and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. Dig into this article to learn more about why and how to incorporate cover crops in your garden. Read More Cover Crops for the Home Garden As you harvest the last of your vegetables and fruits late in the gardening season, open soil space becomes available in your garden. Why not try something new and fill those spaces with cover crops? Read more about cover crops in the home garden. Read More Deciphering Seed Catalogs Seed catalogs start coming in January or February - a good time to start dreaming of your next garden! But there is so much information packed into a seed catalog it can be hard to interpret the abbreviations and array of plant varieties. This article will help you to decipher your seed catalogs so that you can choose the best plants for your garden. Read More For Healthy Plants, Understand Your Soil First As you start to prepare your garden for spring planting, attending to the quality of your soil is one of the first things on the list. Testing and possibly amending your soil may not be as fun as planting, but these steps are crucial to the health of your plants. This article explains how to understand your soil and how to make it a beneficial host for your vegetables, shrubs, trees or flowers Read More From Our House to Yours: Winter Sowing Native Plants for You! Master Gardeners strive to be stewards of the environment. To that end, the Dakota County Master Gardener program seeks ways to support the efforts of community members to practice good gardening in their own yards. Planting native plants in your garden is one of those good gardening practices. To support that practice, the Master Gardeners’ Propagation Team grows native plants from local seeds that you can buy at our annual plant sale in May. In this article, learn how Master Gardeners collect, prepare and grow the native seeds. Read More Garden Mulch and Jumping Worms There are many things to consider when choosing which type of mulch to use. Aesthetics is one consideration but mulch that will help and not hurt your garden soil is another. This article will help you select the mulch that's right for your garden. Read More 1 2 3 4 1 ... 1 2 3 4 ... 4