Garden Prep & Care Avoid Overbuying Seeds Gardening season is over for this year. Or is it? Are you already dreaming and planning for next year’s garden? Soon it will be time to buy seeds. But don’t let your enthusiasm lead you to overbuying seeds. The best way to avoid overbuying is to use a systematic process for planning, purchasing, and storing seeds. Read this article for some tips to help you plan wisely. Read More Beware Garlic Mustard in Early Spring Garlic Mustard may be edible and tasty but unless you are planning to cook with it, you will not want it growing in your yard. One of the first weeds to appear in the spring, Garlic Mustard is a noxious weed that is difficult to get rid of. Read this article to learn how to identify Garlic Mustard and how to control it. Read More Blending Annuals and Perennials for Continuous Summer Bloom Gardens built on perennials alone can shine brilliantly for a few weeks, then settle into quieter stretches. The solution isn’t to abandon perennials, but to partner them with annuals in a way that keeps the show going from late spring to frost. By layering the strengths of both—perennials for structure and rhythm, annuals for reliable, season-long color—you can create a garden that never feels finished but never feels empty either. Read More Cold Stratification for Seed Starting Starting seeds indoors can be a rewarding process for home gardeners. It provides a welcome activity as we anticipate the arrival of spring and it can be more cost-effective than purchasing plants. However, not all seeds are ready to sow directly from the packet and may require some extra preparation and time before sowing. Understanding the germination needs for specific plants is very important. By knowing these requirements, gardeners can successfully start seeds indoors and get a head start on the growing season. Read this article to understand how to provide cold stratification for the plants that need it. Read More Companion Gardens Are the Best Linda Stein confesses that she used to arrange her garden by separating annuals from perennials from vegetables. But she has learned that there are many advantages to mixing these different types of plants in the garden. Read this article to learn more about why you would want to mix these plant types and what types of plants you might consider. As you prepare for the upcoming summer, learn more about mixing and matching your edible plants with flowering perennials and annuals to enhance the beauty of your garden, attract pollinators to plants that will benefit from these critters and reduce the need for pesticides by providing plants that serve as natural repellants. Read More Composting Would you like to save $$$ on your gardening expenses? Homegrown compost can be used to solve various garden challenges while saving you money from buying other product solutions in-store. Read More Cover Crops Cover crops? What are they and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. Dig into this article to learn more about why and how to incorporate cover crops in your garden. Read More Cover Crops for the Home Garden As you harvest the last of your vegetables and fruits late in the gardening season, open soil space becomes available in your garden. Why not try something new and fill those spaces with cover crops? Read more about cover crops in the home garden. Read More Deciphering Seed Catalogs Seed catalogs start coming in January or February - a good time to start dreaming of your next garden! But there is so much information packed into a seed catalog it can be hard to interpret the abbreviations and array of plant varieties. This article will help you to decipher your seed catalogs so that you can choose the best plants for your garden. Read More For Healthy Plants, Understand Your Soil First As you start to prepare your garden for spring planting, attending to the quality of your soil is one of the first things on the list. Testing and possibly amending your soil may not be as fun as planting, but these steps are crucial to the health of your plants. This article explains how to understand your soil and how to make it a beneficial host for your vegetables, shrubs, trees or flowers Read More From Our House to Yours: Winter Sowing Native Plants for You! Master Gardeners strive to be stewards of the environment. To that end, the Dakota County Master Gardener program seeks ways to support the efforts of community members to practice good gardening in their own yards. Planting native plants in your garden is one of those good gardening practices. To support that practice, the Master Gardeners’ Propagation Team grows native plants from local seeds that you can buy at our annual plant sale in May. In this article, learn how Master Gardeners collect, prepare and grow the native seeds. Read More Garden Mulch and Jumping Worms There are many things to consider when choosing which type of mulch to use. Aesthetics is one consideration but mulch that will help and not hurt your garden soil is another. This article will help you select the mulch that's right for your garden. Read More 1 2 3 4 1 ... 1 2 3 4 ... 4

Events Every year the Master Gardeners in Dakota County share their knowledge of research-based horticultural and environmental information by hosting classes and events. Most events occur in spring, summer and fall. There’s something for everyone. Let’s Get Growing is an event for home gardeners of all skill levels looking to learn more and have a good time. This event includes classes, keynote speaker, lunch, silent auction and a chance to win door prizes too. Classes are taught by U of M Master Gardeners as well as horticulture professionals. Spring Plant Sale Get beautiful, hardy Minnesota grown plants at a great price and benefit the Master Gardener program of Dakota County too. Classes and Workshops If there is a gardening topic chances are there is a Dakota County Master Gardening speaking about it somewhere. Classes are offered throughout the year at a variety of locations throughout the county. Farmers Markets Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets in Lakeville, Eagan, Burnsville, and Apple Valley. Look for our table at both summer and winter area markets. A complete listing of dates, location and times can be found on our Event Calendar . Community Gardens Master Gardeners participate in comparison vegetable trials and then share their results with you on this website. This year we cooperated in a state-wide trial to look at attractiveness of annual; flowers to various pollinators. Data was collected each week for eight weeks and will be compiled into a report. We are hoping that the information will help gardeners choose flowers that will improve habitat for pollinators.

< Back Indulging in the World of Mulching Spring has sprung in Minnesota! Are you thinking about putting mulch in your garden or wondering if you should? Resolve to learn more about mulching in your landscape beds this year. As you wander around your gardens and at the local landscape and garden supply stores, you may wonder which type of mulch to use, where to apply it and what time of year is appropriate for such mulch. Read on to find out the answers to these mulching questions. Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener CATEGORIES OF MULCH ORGANIC Organic mulches are natural materials that decompose over time, adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil and beneficial microorganisms that inhibit plant diseases. The increased amounts of organic matter will improve soil drainage and moisture retention, reduce soil compaction, and attract earthworms. Because organic mulches decompose, they need to be replaced. Depending on the type of mulch used, replacement intervals vary from one to four years. Bark: Available in bags or bulk, bark mulch comes in various particle sizes, ranging from fine to large chunks with some decorative colored/dyed options. This attractive mulch is weed-free and decomposes slowly, with cedar and cypress being the slowest. Use bark mulches around trees, shrubs, and roses, as well as in perennial beds. Photo by Mary Gadek daffodils surrounded by wood mulch Wood Chips: Wood chips from local arborists, municipal facilities, or waste sites are produced by chipping or shredding tree and shrub trimmings. Shredded mulch is less likely to blow or wash away than chips. Wood chips are best used in most landscape plantings, including around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Be aware: Some commercially available wood chips are made by shredding or chipping lumber or pallets. They are an inferior product that breaks down quickly and may contain chemicals. These products are sometimes dyed to mask their origin. Check labels or with your garden center to avoid such products. Wood chips are best used in landscape plantings, such as around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Pine Needles: Pine needle mulch, or pine straw, is light, airy, slow to decompose, and attractive. It lasts several years and can be easily removed, if necessary. Pine needles are slightly acidic, although their effect on soil pH is relatively minor. Use pine needles in the landscape, especially around trees and shrubs, and perennials. Available at local garden centers or under the pine tree in your yard. Photo by Mary Gadek straw mulch in garden Cocoa Beans Shells: Cocoa bean shells or cocoa hulls are a by-product of chocolate production. They are light, easy to handle, and have an attractive brown color with a pleasant aroma. This mulch is more expensive than most, but a depth of 1 to 2 inches is sufficient. Best to use for annuals, large containers, perennials, vegetable gardens, roses and sensory gardens. They typically last about one growing season. WARNING: Dog owners should monitor their dogs closely, as dogs may develop signs of chocolate poisoning if they ingest it. Straw: Wheat, oat, or soybean straw, free of seeds , makes effective short-term mulch for the vegetable garden and strawberry bed as well as overwintering insulation for cold-tender plants. Avoid using it around trees and shrubs as it may provide a winter habitat for mice and other rodents. Sawdust : Sawdust is easy to apply, weed-free, and decomposes slowly. Apply sawdust in vegetable gardens, perennial plantings, or around trees and shrubs. Use saw dust that either has been composted or aged for a year, or a thin layer (1 inch or less) of fresh saw dust, ensuring it doesn't crust over, reducing water infiltration. Watch for nitrogen deficiency (when your plants appear light green to yellow colors and slow growth) when using sawdust due to the high carbon to nitrogen ratio. Refrain from using sawdust from treated lumber. Leaves: Taken right from your own yard, s hred or compost leaves before using them as mulch to prevent matting, reduce their likelihood of blowing away, and speed up decomposition. Utilize for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds, raspberry plantings, and around perennials, trees, and shrubs. However, skip applying for winter mulch for strawberries and herbaceous perennials because they tend to mat down and smother plants. Grass Clippings: Grass clippings decompose quickly, making them ideal for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds or left (without clumps) on your lawn while cutting with an unbagged lawnmower. Let lawn clippings dry before applying to gardens, as fresh clippings may form a dense mat or produce an odor. Avoid using clippings treated with broadleaf herbicide until after two or three mowings. Clippings from weed-infested lawns will contain weed seeds. Newspaper and Cardboard: newspaper and cardboard can be used as mulch (but is often then covered with wood mulch or compost), in vegetable gardens, garden pathways, and around trees and shrubs. Shredded newspapers or whole sheets can be used as mulch. Most newspapers use organic inks, so there is no worry about lead contamination. Avoid waxed cardboard and glossy paper, such as magazine pages. Remove tape and staples from boxes. This link provides additional instructions on how to implement this mulch. Compost: Compost, used alone or with other mulches, like shredded leaves or newspaper, helps improve soil structure, drainage, and fertility, but doesn't suppress weeds as well as other mulches. Compost can be used in nearly all garden settings, including perennial and annual beds, vegetable gardens, and around trees and shrubs. INORGANIC Photo by Mary Gadek Little Bluestem ornamental grass in rock mulch Inorganic mulches, include rock, gravel, rubber or plastic chips, plastic sheeting and landscape fabric . The benefits of inorganic mulches are: warming the soil in the spring or fall, suppressing weeds, limiting soil erosion on steep areas and preventing water infiltration where water is not wanted. However, inorganic mulches do not contribute to building soil fertility or composition, can overheat soil in the summer and often have organic material collected on top of it, leading to weed issues. Inorganic mulches usually are more tedious to install, may require additional irrigation and can be difficult to garden in, making planting, transplanting, and weeding challenging. Rubber or plastic chips eventually decompose, which can release chemical components that are not desirable for healthy soil. Organic mulches placed over landscape fabric can still get weeds and are more likely to wash away. WHEN TO APPLY MULCH In Minnesota, apply mulch i n early spring but wait until the ground warms and perennials emerge. Putting down a layer of mulch too early can further insulate the ground and slow plant emergence. In the fall, mulch can help protect newly planted perennials and other plants from harsh cold temperatures. For late-season applications, apply mulch after plants go dormant, but not too early, as it can delay dormancy and increase the risk of cold damage. BEWARE OF JUMPING WORMS Beware of jumping worms. Once you have chosen the type of mulch, keep reading to learn more about applying mulch to your garden as well as learning about invasive jumping worms which like to reside in mulch. Here is an article about mulch and jumping worms . For more jumping worm prevention, seek out garden centers that use the recommended best practices with their mulch. This is an article about best management practices. Mulching is often a good gardening practice but be mindful of the type of mulch your use and when to use it, in order to obtain the best result. Sources https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/using-mulch-garden https://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/how_to_select_mulch.pdf https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/factsheets/mulch-basics/ https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/prepcare/garden-mulch-and-jumping-worms https://www.mnla.biz/news/677301/2024-Updated-Nursery--Landscape-Best-Management-Practices-BMPs-to-Reduce-Spread-of-Jumping-Worms.htm#:~:text=Only%20use%2C%20sell%2C%20purchase%2C,eggs%20and%20other%20horticultural%20pests . Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1-3)

< Back Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Is there a food more identified with October than pumpkin! Of course not! So, here is Joy Johnson’s delicious recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake. Joy says she is targeting adults with this recipe but kids will love it, too! Pumpkin is nutritious and delicious. It can be used in a variety of ways. It’s easy to get kids to eat their veggies when you roast them, bake them in a pie or make a frothy drink out of them. Remember Harry Potter’s love for Pumpkin Juice? I shared all those recipes in last year’s October Garden Buzz, so I thought I’d focus on the adults this year. Yes, you can have your coffee and eat it too. Here is a recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake , with coffee frosting of course! Cake Ingredients: ½ cup butter, room temperature 2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar 1 T pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 15 oz can pumpkin puree 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 ¼ tsp baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ teaspoon ground ginger ¾ teaspoon ground cardamom 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg ¾ teaspoon salt Frosting Ingredients: ½ cup salted butter, at room temperature 2 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature 1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar 1 T instant coffee powder 1 T vanilla extract Process: Preheat the oven to 350. Grease and flour an 8-inch square baking pan. MAKE THE CAKE: In a stand mixer, beat together the butter, brown sugar, vanilla, eggs, and pumpkin on low until combined, about 1 minute, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cardamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix at medium speed until completely smooth with no lumps remaining, for about 2 minutes. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the center is just set, 25-30 minutes, place it on a cooling rack. Let cool. MEANWHILE, MAKE THE FROSTING: Beat together the butter and cream cheese until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, instant coffee powder, and vanilla. Beat until the frosting is light and fluffy, 2-4 minutes more. Spread the frosting over the cake. Slice, snack and enjoy. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Photo Credits: www.aceofgray.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back Things to Check Out This Spring: What are Buds, Leaves and Blossoms? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Keep an eye out for BUDS, LEAVES, and BLOSSOMS growing on the trees around you. Read on to learn more about these fun signs of spring and some tree education ideas for children of all ages! Your nose may tell you there are blossoms nearby and your ears may hear the buzzing of happy bees enjoying their nectar and pollen. How does the rounded or pointed shape of a bud compare to the flat shape of many leaves? How many different colors and shapes of blossoms can you find on a walk around your neighborhood, or a visit to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum? pussy willow (salix discolor) In spring, trees start to wake up from their winter naps, called dormancy . The days are longer. The sunlight is stronger. The temperatures warm, allowing water to be pulled from the soil into the roots and then move within the tree. The sap starts flowing, full of energy. In a maple tree, we can even use the sap to make syrup for your pancakes. Yum! Sap helps feed the trees too. As the sap carries nutrients throughout the tree, BUDS swell at the end of tree branches - they are gathering energy and getting ready for the new season. Those buds are the beginning of a new leaf or blossom! diagram of a twig with lateral (side) buds and terminal (end) bud A LEAF grows from some buds - this is a flattened structure that has some big jobs: Transpiration: helping the tree to release water vapor and oxygen into the air and take in carbon dioxide. Photosynthesis: taking the sun’s energy and making it into fuel for the tree Shade and shelter: from sun, wind and rain Food: what kind of creatures eat leaves? Some big mammals and small insects like to munch on those tasty treats. 4 leaf Pay attention to the shape and structure of leaves - you can identify the tree by the kind of leaf it grows! Some buds turn into flower BLOSSOMS : their job is to attract pollinators with bright colors and sweet scents! If the pollinators (like bees) can bring pollen from one plant to another, some blossoms will grow into fruit like an apple! apple trees in blossom The University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources has a fun way to identify, different features in tree species. Find more tree identification cards here . card of Black Cherry Tree Ready to read more? Check out some books from the Dakota County libraries about BUDS, LEAVES, BLOSSOMS and more on trees! Here are a few suggestions: National Geographic Kids, Ultimate Explorer Field Guide: Tree by Patricia Daniels The Things That I Love About Trees by Chris Butterworth & illustrated by Charlotte Voake Can You Hear the Trees Talking, Discovering the Hidden Life of the Forest by Peter Wohllenben Nature All Around Trees by Pamela Hickman and Carolyn Gavin Keep an eye on this shrub if you happen to be by the Wescott Library steps - I found some branches with buds just beginning to swell with snow still on the ground this spring! Find some additional resources for tree activities from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources here . But most importantly, get out there with the child in your life and enjoy the spring BUDS, LEAVES, AND BLOSSOMS! Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1,2), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (3), University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources (4,6), Sarah Heidtke (5,7,8)

< Back Native Grasses for the Home Landscape Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Native grasses, sedges and flowers can be stunning at any scale; from vast prairie to small garden. In addition to the visual appeal, they provide essential habitat for many native insects and birds. The vegetation of the mesic prairie ecosystems that once covered much of southern and western Minnesota included a profusion of flowering plants and grasses. These resilient plants adapted to survive cold winters, hot summers, flood and drought and are still excellent choices for most of Minnesota. This article shares the benefits of and considerations for making native grasses a part of your landscape. Benefits of Native Grasses Long lived perennials Drought tolerant and soil stabilizers; due to deep root systems Enhanced soil; fibrous roots slough off and break down into organic matter Food source for wildlife; butterflies, skippers, birds Shelter for native insects, including butterflies, moths and bees Structural; support other plants Competitive with weeds Characteristics of Native Grasses Primarily warm season grasses; grow in late spring and flower in the hot summer Either clump or running growth habit Wind pollinated; flowers are small, do not need to attract pollinators Arrangement and branching patterns of florets in the seedhead (aka grass inflorescence) determine how grasses are identified, named, and classified Clump (Blue Grama) Inflorescence (Side Oats Grama) Design considerations for your site: What are your goals? Are there any restrictions at your site? What are your water and soil conditions? Some grasses are more suited to sandy, dry, high ground while some tolerate more wet conditions. Do you prefer a formal or informal design? A formal garden generally takes more space so the plants can show their full shape and allow for layering of heights from front to back. Formal (Noerenberg Memorial Gardens) Informal (Mendota Heights Victoria Road) Do you prefer a mix of textures and shapes or a uniform look? The clump form grows outward slowly so is less aggressive and good for mixes while the running growth habit is beneficial if you want a single grass to fill in a space for a functional purpose, for example to stabilize a slope or create a mow-able lawn. Short to medium height grasses are suited to locations with limited space where visibility and minimal spreading is desirable. Preferred grasses are generally shorter, of clump form, include visual interest from color and/or interesting seed heads, and mix well with low growing prairie flowers. Prairie Dropseed is widely adapted to soils ranging from dry, sandy and rock outcrops to low, wet mesic habits. It is an elegant clump form, at 2-4’ height. The nativar “tara’ is shorter in form at 24-30”. See Reference #1 for more information. Prairie Dropseed - fine foliage and inflorescence in summer Little Bluestem is an iconic species of Minnesota prairies that prefers loose, well-drained soil. Grows in clump form, at 2-4’ high. Host plant for several native butterflies, skippers. Showy, bright red in fall with shiny silver seedheads. Little Bluestem - bluish foliage in summer Blue Grama does well in dry, sand to loam soil, not clay. Clump form at height of 12-30”.Horizontal seed heads provide interest. See Reference #1 for more information. Side Oats Grama is related, a bit taller at 2-3’ height, different inflorescence. Junegrass does well in very dry, sandy soils. It is short, compact and upright at 2-3’ and mixes well with low-growing prairie flowers. A cool season grass; grows in early spring, flowers and sets seed late spring or early summer. Tall Native Grasses are generally not recommended for home gardens as they may overtake flowers over time but they can be a feature, screen or backdrop for other plants where more space is available and/or height is desirable. Big Bluestem is found throughout Minnesota. Grows in sand, loam, clay soil. It is tall at 8’, upright and open. It tends to self-sow and dominate and is subject to ‘lodging’ (falling over). Several nativars with different growing habits and color are available. See Reference #1 for more information. Indian Grass is found throughout Minnesota and does well in dry to moist soils (sand, loam, clay) with a height of 5-7’. It is medium aggressive and tends to self sow. It has a good upright form with golden seedheads, looks great with little bluestem and medium to tall flowers at the back of a border or garden. If you haven’t considered native grasses for your landscape before, it may be time to reconsider. Native grasses can be a stunning addition to your pollinator friendly garden. References Benefits of Native Grasses ; explained in three short informative videos by University of MN Extension Professor and Horticulturist Mary Meyer. On the same page as above; Free downloadable book “Gardening with Native Grasses in Cold Climates” by Diane M. Harem and Mary Hockenberry Meyer, includes information on grasses and flowers that together provide for the complete lifecycle of one or more Lepidoptera. UMN Extension Planting and maintaining a prairie garden . Numerous links on selecting Native Plants . Book “The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants” by Neil Diboll & Hilary Cox, copyright 2023, the University of Chicago Press. DNR Mesic Prairie . Native Plant Encyclopedia ; focus is on lakeshore management but also a way to look up distribution of native plants in the state. Minnesota Wildflowers ; a guide to the flora of MN. Sites to visit Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Specialty Gardens ; Ornamental Grass Collection. Current Projects at Dakota County Parks . Noerenberg Memorial Gardens in Wayzata. Many native and other grasses in a formal garden setting. Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1-7)

< Back Newby’s Vegetable Garden Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the time when many homeowner’s thoughts turn to gardening. New (or not so new) homeowners may want to start growing their own vegetables but are hesitant because they don’t know how to start. In this clever article, Master Gardener and experienced vegetable gardener, Margie Blare provides loads of good advice to the “Newby” gardener about how to start a vegetable garden. Read this article to start your vegetable gardening adventure. Once upon a time, there was a new gardener named Newby . One day Newby thought, “I would like to have a vegetable garden. Then I’d know where my food comes from and how it was grown. I wonder how I can do that?” With a flash of green, a figure appeared. “I can help!” exclaimed Greenthumb . Newby : “Hi Greenthumb , I have questions like, where should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Choose a spot that gets 6-8 hours of full sun each day. To minimize weeding, consider a raised bed. Keep it simple, perhaps four 2 X 6s nailed together to make a 3 X 8 foot bed. At this width, you can easily reach across it. And, if that spot doesn’t work, you can move it next year.” Newby : “Can I just use the soil from my backyard?” Greenthumb : “It depends! You should get a soil test; watch this video to find out how. Soil tests let you know how much and what kind of fertilizer is needed. It will tell you how much organic matter is in your soil and will give recommendations for healthy plants, with no adverse effects on the environment. You can fill a raised bed with quality soil if your native soil is poor.” Newby : “So, I just put the seeds in the ground?” Greenthumb :” It depends! Some need to be started indoors and others do best when directly seeded.” Read the seed package learn what each type of seeds need. Newby : “When should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Some crops are cool season; such as peas, spinach, lettuce, and many more. Others are warm season; such as cucumbers, beans, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, squash and melons. You need to read the seed package. You can also check out this seed-starting calculator .” Newby : “My neighbor’s tomatoes got all black last year. How can I prevent that?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Check out ‘What’s Wrong with my Plant?’ on the University of Minnesota’s website to find pictures of various diseases and insects that may be affecting your veggies. There are recommendations on what to do. Having good sanitation and plant spacing prevents a number of pest problems. You can also ‘Ask a Master Gardener’ at (612) 301-7590. Leave a message and a Master Gardener will research your questions and get back to you.” Newby : “I heard my neighbor talking about zones. What are they?” Greenthumb : “Plant hardiness zone maps show the temperatures of various places in the state and nation. It is necessary to know your zone when buying small fruits like strawberries and raspberries, and perennial vegetables such as rhubarb, horseradish and asparagus, to make sure the plants you buy can withstand the winters in our area. See the map above to find out your zone.” Newby : “Thanks Greenthumb!” Greenthumb : “Happy Gardening!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1,2,4), Hardiness Map (3)

< Back Sunflowers - Bright, Beautiful and Fun to Grow Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to see the entire life cycle of a plant. This article explains how to engage in this fun and easy learning opportunity. Julie Henrichs Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to experience the entire life cycle of a plant. Sunflowers are ideal for planting with children because sunflower seeds are large in size for easy handling, tolerates dry or drought conditions and also is fairly low maintenance. Sunflowers are also “giving” plants - bees and bugs benefit from the flowers while birds eat the seeds produced. Let’s Get Planting Sunflower seeds come in all varieties, size and many colors ranging from yellow, orange, bronze, red, burgundy and even white with a variation of mixed petals. Allow your children to choose the type of sunflower to grow and then ask why they chose the one they did? Was it for the height, the extra fuzzy looking flower or simply the color? If you have height restrictions, refer to seed package for height and spacing guidelines. We think of sunflower seeds always being planted in the ground, but they can also be planted in containers. Choosing the best finished container is important and make sure to base the size of container by the plant height. Items Needed: Appropriately sized planting container (base size on final height of plant) with good drainage Sunflower Seeds Potting Soil Water in watering can or spray bottle Plant labels (optional) Gardening Gloves (optional) Let’s get started: Fill containers with potting soil, leaving dirt an inch away from the rim of the container. Once the container is filled, tap down lightly and add any potting soil as needed. Children can poke a small hole with their finger into the soil. Open the seed packet and have your child plant the seeds about 1-2 inches into the soil in the hole. Seeds can be spaced approximately 6-12 inches apart depending on the sunflower seed type. (refer to the back of the package for planting depth and spacing) Cover seeds and tamp down soil Water gently with a watering can being careful not to disrupt the newly planted seeds or spritz the soil with water making sure the soil is wet Set the newly planted containers in full sun. Continue to check the new plantings for watering needs at least once or twice a day. Once the seedlings have emerged, continue to check to make sure the soil remains moist, but not saturated. Seeds start to grow 1-1 ½ weeks after planting. As your sunflower begins to grow it may require staking to keep the plant upright, especially in strong winds. Sunflowers are unique in that they begin as a seed and also end as a seed. The sunflower plant produces a sunflower bloom/head. When the sunflower head starts to turn brown, the sunflowers can be cut off and either they can be left for birds and other insects or they can be dried and then used later. Sunflowers provide so many benefits – a fun and educational gardening experience, a beautiful display and food for birds and insects. Let’s get planting! Photo Credit: flickr.com (1,2), backgardener.com (3)

Request a Speaker Master Gardeners are available to speak to garden clubs, at workplace seminars or other groups about a wide variety of garden-related topics. We have access to the latest university based research, attend educational seminars throughout the year and have personal interest in many aspects of gardening. Here is a list of just some of the topics we are able to present to your group. Don’t see what you are looking for? Contact our Speakers Bureau and we can help. Please remember that our Speaker Bureau program is run by volunteers and we therefore ask for your patience. Please allow 3-5 business days for a reply. Ideally, we ask that you request speakers a minimum of 4-6 weeks before your event although more urgent requests will be considered and fulfilled whenever possible. We appreciate your understanding. Popular Topics Annuals Bee friendly plants Beekeeping Blueberries Container gardening Composting Herbs Houseplants Invasive plants and pests Orchids Putting your gardens to bed Shade gardening Spring bulbs Square foot gardening Seeding starting Vegetables And more!! Request a Speaker First Name Last Name Email Write a message. Please include the location for the presentation. Submit Your request has been sent.

< Back Blue Wild Indigo (Baptisia australis): A Plant to Dye For / With! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Ever wonder why Blue Wild Indigo is nicknamed “False Indigo.” Read the answer to this question and more about why you should consider this hardy native for a spot in your sunny garden. “Any flower this intense a blue must be good for dyes. It must be indigo!” or so thought early European settlers coming to the Eastern Seacoast and meeting Baptisia australis . Alas, the plant proved inferior to the real thing as a dye—Blue Indigo or Indigofera sp. Thus, it acquired its alternate name of False Indigo. Nonetheless, the intense blue bloom of blue wild Indigo justifies your adding it to your garden, even if you aren’t into textile dying! Blue wild indigo is found across the upper and Mid-Atlantic seaboard, extending into the Midwest. It grows well in dry to medium well-drained soil in full sun. It will tolerate part-shade but does get a bit spindly. It tends to form in expanding clumps which put down deep roots—thus, its tolerance of drought and poor soils. However, it’s not a good idea to disturb the plant and its roots once established. The plants can get three to four feet tall and spread out a similar length so some folks will trim them after blooming. This helps keep a more rounded shape but at the expense of removing the seed pods which form. These fellows are a delight! The pods can be 2 to 3 inches long, turning a charcoal black. The seeds are loose in the pod so they make a great rattle. If you aren’t into that, the cut stems and seed pods can make a striking addition to dried flower arrangements. Blue wild indigo can be grown from seed, but this is a slow process. Blooming usually doesn’t occur for several years. Baptisia australis is an herbaceous perennial. It is hardy from Zones 3 to 9 so it should be good to go throughout Minnesota. It usually blooms during May and June and attracts a number of pollinators, especially butterflies. It does well as a back border or a naturalizer in prairies or meadows. It is a tough customer with few insect or disease problems. It is, however sensitive to juglone, that antisocial chemical secreted by walnut trees, so don’t plant blue indigo around them. Otherwise, blue wild indigo can be a beautiful, low maintenance addition to your garden. Photo Credits: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)

< Back Black Spruce (Picea mariana): A Northwoods Native Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains, you don’t need to go to the Rhine country in Germany to see a cathedral of natural majesty. This month, Jim profiles the mighty and beautiful Black Spruce (pices mariana). Black Spruce is native to Minnesota and can grow to 50-100 feet under the right environmental conditions. But other varieties have been developed for landscape use. Read on to learn more about this magnificent conifer. Last spring we toured the Rhine country of Germany. The majestic twin spires of the Cathedral of Cologne couldn’t help but remind me of the North Country of Minnesota. In that cathedral of the Northwoods, the spires of Pices mariana (black spruce) soar skyward in quiet majesty. They are native to the northern Midwest and grow well throughout Central and Upper Minnesota. They require full sun and are quite sensitive to shading. Black Spruce is a slow-growing conifer and prefers moist environments. It is often found in bogs and other wetlands. a stand of Black Spruce Black Spruce vary in height depending on the environment, ranging from 15 to 50 feet in height, although some can push to 100 feet. The leaves are needle-like and seed cones are small, ½ to 1 ½ inches long, dark purple ripening to reddish brown. They are produced in dense clusters in the upper crown, opening at maturity but persisting for several years. needles and young cones The roots of black spruce are shallow and spread widely. Consequently, the tree is susceptible to wind-throw. Perhaps the most spectacular example was the 1999 July 4 th Boundary Waters Blowdown or derecho. Aerial view of the 1999 Blowdown A number of cultivars have been developed for landscape use. The cultivar P. mariana ‘Nana’ is a dwarf form that has gained in popularity. If you are looking for one of these stately trees, they are hard to find in nurseries but can readily be grown from seed. They do transplant well. So, with a bit of patience, you can inexpensively generate a handsome stand of black spruce. Photo Credits: Daniel Case, Wikipedia (1,2), Quetico Superior Wilderness News (3)

< Back Dormant Seeding, Preparing Your Lawn for Next Year Vida Dam, Dakota County Master Gardener Plant grass seed in your lawn now? We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. Dormant seeding has many benefits, as discussed in this article, but certain methods must be used in order to achieve success. Read on to discover how to dormant seed your lawn. We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. The benefits of the cold will prevent the seed from germinating this year, leverage our Minnesota's natural freeze-thaw cycle of winters to work the seed into the soil, and allow the new grass seed to germinate very early in the spring when it is still wet and cold. Dormant seeding gives the lawn a head start next year before the summer heat and annual weeds emerge. Is this good for every lawn? This is great for sparse lawns, bare patches, and thin lawns that need to be thickened. It is not as effective if the lawn is already thick and dense as the seed needs good seed-to-soil contact. When to Dormant Seed the lawn? Timing is very important as grass seeds should not germinate this fall. If the seed germinate/sprout this fall, the immature seedlings may not survive the winter. The target is to apply the dormant seeds before the first major snowfall between mid/late October to mid-November when the temperature is too cold for germination. The seed must be put down while the ground is not frozen but is cold. Day time temperature should be around 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit, and soil temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. ** Tip : if the lawn is actively growing and being mowed, it is too early for dormant seeding. How to Dormant Seed - the steps: Select the desired grass seed: For Minnesota lawns look up options based on site conditions and maintenance on the UMN extension. (see additional resources below) An average Minnesota lawn may have a mix of Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, and small amounts of perennial ryegrass. Prepare the lawn: Mow the existing lawn slightly lower than normal to approximately 2 inches in order to allow the seed to reach the soil. Loosen the soil surface so the seed can have easier seed to soil contact. Using a hand rake for small areas of bare or thin lawn is an option. For larger areas, a vertical mower, dethatcher, or scarifier is an option. Rake up any debris Spread the seed & ensure contact: Use the recommended rate for the grass seed and lightly incorporate it into the existing soil with a hand rake. Water lightly & thoroughly Water the area lightly and thoroughly after laying the seed. Do not water too much, the soil should be barely damp - between dry and damp. Only in extreme drought, is additional watering needed. Continuous watering is not needed until the seed germinate in the spring. What to expect in the Spring: The results of dormant seeding depend on Minnesota winter conditions. With more snowfall that can cover and protect the areas, the higher chance of success. Seedlings will germinate by late April and early May as the temperature warms. Be patient as it takes 10-14 plus days for grass to sprout. If the area is a little thin, give it some time and it is not unusual to have additional reseeding in the spring. Avoid heavy traffic on the young seedlings and consider fertilization to assist with lawn establishment Warning: Do not apply a pre-emergent weed preventer in the spring as it will prevent grass seed from germinating. Happy dormant seeding! For more information, please see links and resources below: Learn More here: Dormant Seeding: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/dormant-seeding Dormant Seeding Bee Lawns: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dormant-seeding-bee-lawns#:~:text=Dormant%20seeding%20provides%20the%20best,soil%20moisture%20for%20germinating%20seeds Turfgrass Seed for Minnesota Lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/buying-turfgrass-seed-minnesota-lawns Gall Dormant Seed: https://www.gertens.com/learn/fall-dormant-seeding#:~:text=Photo%20by%20the%20University%20of,your%20new%20seed%20will%20sprout . Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)