A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. Read More Beware of Ticks! But What if There Were No Ticks? We are well into tick season and unfortunately, the Minnesota Department of Health has observed an increase in Emergency Department visits related to tick bites over the past few months. We may be tempted to yearn for the eradication of ticks from our environment. Who needs them! This article provides a refresher on how to reduce the likelihood of receiving a tick bite and also explores the impact on the environment if ticks did not exist. Beware what you wish for! Read More Bird Feeding Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. Read More Boxelder Bugs It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. Read More Creating a Butterfly Habitat Would you like to attract a variety of butterflies to your garden? Different plants and environments attract different types of butterflies. So, if you really want to focus on particular butterflies, you can do it by planting appealing plants and creating welcoming environments. Read this informative article about what you need to do to attract butterflies to your garden. Read More Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Is creeping charlie an unwelcome intruder in your garden? Read this article to find out more about why this plant is so hard to eliminate and, even, how you can appreciate and even live with Creeping Charlie in your garden. Read More December - Feed The Birds That Live in Your Neighborhood Winter is upon us and as the temperatures drop and the snow begins to fall, our feathery friends need our help finding food. The first step is to understand what birds you have in your neighborhood. Different birds eat different foods. Observe with your young gardeners what birds frequent your area to determine the best way you can help. There are many different make-at-home birdfeeders but let’s get started on making mini frozen bird feeders that can be made, frozen and set out for our feathery friends this winter. Read More Don’t Let Powdery Mildew Haunt You! Powdery mildew is a very common garden fungus. This fungus was even more prevalent last year when our abundant rainfall increased our summer humidity. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Read this very informative article to understand what powdery mildew is, how it affects plants, what you can do to prevent it and how to control it when it happens. Read More Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Read More Eradicating Invasive Honeysuckle in the Minnesota Landscape Minnesota has several species of native honeysuckle but beware - there is a chance the honeysuckle you have at home may be one of the four non-native species of bush honeysuckle that are invasive in a Minnesota landscape! This article tells you how to tell the difference and what to do about these invasive plants. Read More Flying Squirrels in Your Backyard? If your home is near water and tree groves including trees with cavities, you may have flying squirrels in your yard and not know the squirrels are there. Flying squirrels are nocturnal animals that come out to eat for a few hours after sunset and sometimes in the early morning hours prior to sunrise. Read on to learn more about these wilderness residents and backyard visitors. Read More Getting the Jump on Jumping Worms Many of us associate worms in the soil as an indicator of “good garden soil.” Unfortunately, that is not necessarily true in Minnesota these days. “Jumping worms” have become more common in local gardens recently and that is not a good thing. Read this article to understand why. Read More 1 2 3 1 ... 1 2 3 ... 3 Diseases, Pests & Wildlife

Books & Other Resources County Hosts Seed Collection for Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers Read More Learning to Grow African Leafy Vegetables in Minnesota The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. This article identifies some native African vegetables and discusses an important plant breeding program started by the University of Minnesota and partnering with community members. Read More Shoot Your Plants Like a Pro July – when we can walk out into our gardens and are captivated by the beauty of our plants, vegetables or trees – nature. It’s natural to want to capture the beauty of nature in a photograph. With the advent of the iPhone, and its pal the Android phone, we have all become photographers, or so we think. Often the subjects we photograph do not come out looking as well as they did in real life. There is more to photography than pointing your camera and clicking the button. Here are some tips to help you take better photos. Read More Paper Poinsettias Here is a fun seasonal project for your Growing Sprout. Read on to find out how to make them and where poinsettias grow. It might surprise you! Read More Master Gardeners Answer Your Questions One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. This article explains some of the ways that you can have your gardening questions answered by a certified Master Gardener in Dakota County. In particular, at Farmers Markets around the county, you can find MGs at their “Ask a Master Gardener” table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Read More Know Your Resources “Hey, Siri, what’s the best kind of mulch for my garden?” This is a question often overheard in a plant center from someone trying to make a selection for their yard. And while Siri can give some options, one has to doubt the accuracy of the reply. Questionable advice can always be found somewhere, whether that’s from artificial intelligence or your neighbor’s second cousin on Facebook, but surely there’s a better way to get the most accurate and helpful answers! This article explains how you can find answers to many of your gardening questions from experts and based on research. Read on to learn how to find reliable answers to your gardening questions. Read More Find Plants for Tough Sites Have you ever fallen in love with a plant that you know in your brain won’t grow in your garden but your heart made you buy it anyway? You bought that sun-loving plant and planted it – full of hope - in your shady garden. Didn’t work out? Unfortunately, wishing, and even tender loving care, can’t make a plant grow if it is in the wrong garden space. Fortunately, this article tells us about a resource that can help you find just the right plant for even tough garden sites. Read More A Versatile Understory Tree: Eastern Redbud Jim Lakin introduces us to another stunning, not-too-big tree native to Minnesota – the Eastern Redbud. This lovely specimen welcomes spring with rosy-pink pea like flowers and ends the growing season with large, heart shaped yellow leaves. It would make a lovely addition to your garden. Read on to learn more. Read More All About Upcycling By now, many of us have heard the phrase, “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Read on for ways to set up our youngest gardeners with good habits to “Reuse” or “Upcycle” what they already have. No purchase required! Read More The Dakota County Seed Library This month we would like to tell you about the Dakota County Seed Library, located in the Farmington Library. Read on to learn about how this important project contributes to the support of pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices and, most importantly for you, the home gardener, how you can benefit from and contribute to this project. Read More The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants: Written By Neil Diboll and Hilary Cox Interested in prairie plants for your garden or just to admire? Jim Lakin reviews one of the most indispensable books on the subject – “The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants.” The book includes photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. But this book also contains more valuable information. Read More The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life “The Backyard Parables: Lesson on Gardening, and Life,” is a gardening memoir of sorts writing by Margaret Roach. Roach, a former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine, quit her job to tend to her gardens full-time. In this delightful book, Roach dispenses both gardening and life lessons. Read this book review to learn more. Read More 1 2 3 1 ... 1 2 3 ... 3

Perennials White Wild Indigo (Baptisia alba): A Victim of Popularity? The wild indigo is a beautiful native plant that has been hybridized into an array of colors. In this article, Jim Lakin explains why you should consider bypassing the new colors and sticking with the native white wild indigo. The native plant is not only beautiful but offers benefits to the soil and to pollinators. Let’s read more about the white wild indigo. Read More Anemone Blandas (aka Grecian Windflowers) October is a great month plant your bulbs for a spring bloom. We are all familiar with tulips, daffodils and hyacinths so how about trying something a bit less common? In this article, we learn about Anemone Blanda aka Grecian Windflowers. This petite bulb (or corm) comes in blooms in several colors and disappear when their bloom time is over. This article may convince you to try Anemone Blanda this year. Read More Shoreline Planting Aaah…lake life in Minnesota is in full swing! As we motor, paddle or splash around, notice the shorelines of our lakes, rivers, streams or ponds. Some are full of natural, native plantings, while others are neatly fashioned by lawns or riprap rock. This article explores why we care about our Minnesota shoreline plantings and what are best practices for the homeowners and the plants and animals living there. Read More Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii): A Midwestern Tall Grass Icon Beginning this month, Dakota County Master Gardener Jim Lakin, begins a series on native prairie perennials. He begins with a prairie star grass – Big Bluestem. This tall, hardy grass is found throughout North America and puts on an elegant show in the garden. Learn more about how and why to grow this iconic, prairie grass. Read More Growing Dahlias in Minnesota As Minnesota settles into summer, blooms are starting to burst out everywhere in our gardens. One all-star beauty for the garden is the magnificent dahlia. Not only are dahlias beautiful in the garden or inside in a vase, but they are economical. Dahlias are a bulb plant and, although they can’t survive a Minnesota winter, the bult can be dug up in the fall, overwintered and planted again next spring. Read this article to learn more about how to choose the right dahlia for you and how to care for and overwinter the plant you have chosen. Read More Wild Yam (Dioscorea villosa): A Decorative Foliage Vine Wild yam is the subject of June’s native vine profile. Not to be confused with the edible yams that we buy in the grocery store, wild yam is sometimes marketed as “natural estrogen.” The article explains why wild yam cannot be used in this way and why you might want to add it to your garden for other reasons. Read More Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans): A High Note on Any Trellis Are you looking for a beautiful, native vine for a sunny fence or pergola in your yard? Consider the glorious Trumpet Vine. This article reveals the many reasons why Trumpet Vine may be a delightful and pollinator-friendly addition to your garden. Read More Virgin’s Bower (Clematis virginiana) Are you a clematis lover? Do you have a fenceline, large arbor or a slope to cover? If so, this article explains why you might want to consider the native clematis Virgin’s Bower. This is a vigorous grower and produces beautiful white flowers that appeal to humans and pollinators. Read More Choosing Iris in Minnesota Late spring and early summer bring Iris blooms in Minnesota! Strolling through the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, you will find many varieties of iris located in the Perennial Garden, and all around the Arb. In fact, the UMN Arboretum website arb.umn.edu lists 677 individual specimens currently on the website’s plant finder! You can plant iris in your own garden but which ones to choose? Read on for some considerations when choosing iris for your Minnesota garden. Read More Find Award-Winning Plants for Your Garden Aren’t we all interested in buying the best plants for our gardens; plants that will grow and prosper in our Minnesota growing conditions? There are many ways to research and find such plants. However, this article will discuss two sources of perennials and annuals that have won awards for their excellence in our region. Read this article to learn more about which plants the industry experts think are outstanding for our gardens. Read More Perpetual Poinsettias Christmas is over and leaves are starting to fall off your once-flourishing poinsettia plants. Most people throw away Poinsettias and buy new plants each winter. Instead, consider saving a plant’s life and the Poinsettia will reward you with beauty throughout the year. If you enjoy Poinsettia’s and are willing to care and feed this lovely plant throughout the year, read this article for some great information about saving your Poinsettia for another beautiful display during next year’s holidays. Read More Raccoon Grape: Ampelopsis cordata A Tough Customer in the Beds This month marks the beginning of a series by Master Gardener Jim Lakin on native vines. First up is the Raccoon Grapevine (Ampelopsis cordata). Raccoon Grapevine is quite a vigorous vine plant which, if managed well, will reward the grower with a spectacular display. Read this article to learn more about this hardy vine. Read More 1 2 3 4 5 1 ... 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... 6

< Back Keeping Your Garden Looking Good in the Fall By the time we get to the State Fair and Labor Day weekend, your garden might be looking as tired as you feel. What happens to your garden is often a reflection of your time, energy and dedication to your craft. But I get it, you weathered the heat waves, the constant watering, spraying for pests, and now, you are just tired of giving attention to what’s left blooming or showing any signs of life. But it doesn’t have to be that way! Fall can be a time for renewal and added vigor to your gardens. Read this article for strategies to keep you garden looking great into the fall. Liz Townley, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern By the time we get to the State Fair and Labor Day weekend, your garden might be looking as tired as you feel. What happens to your garden is often a reflection of your time, energy and dedication to your craft. I get it, you weathered the heat waves, the constant watering, spraying for pests, and now, you are just tired of giving attention to what’s left blooming or showing any signs of life. But it doesn’t have to be that way! Fall can be a time for renewal and added vigor to your gardens. How many times does it look like you have fought the good fight keeping your annuals up and in swoops a deer that chomps off all the flowerheads? Or the heat waves have caused your plants to look leggy or under distress? If you have ever done a room renovation in your home, it might just be time for a garden renovation, often called ‘The August Reset.’ Ideally, you would like to see something always blooming. Fall flowers and foliage can team up to give you those final weeks of glory. Photo credit University of Minnesota Extension Plan and reset Generally, we think of garden planning as a spring activity. But fall is a perfect time to take note of what plants worked and what did not and make some late-season adjustments. You can see where animals and insects took some care to ruin leaves, produce, and roots. Maybe it is time to move a plant that is not doing well now that the temperatures are cooling down. Do you like the colors in your fall garden or are you finding yourself staring at the traditional fall colors of yellow, orange and rust? They can be just beautiful. Yet, adding some nontraditional colors can add a little flavor to your garden: reds, purples, whites and even pinks! Think about rosy Autumn Joy Sedum, purple Aster, pink mums, or purple Turtlehead. Ornamental Kale can add an interesting look to the fall garden. It may be too late to start from seed for most plants. Although some plants can come up quickly under the right conditions. Just be aware of propagation time to not disappoint yourself! Stay in the zone. See map below: Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension And don’t discount the role of foliage to add interest and even color to your garden, try variegated hostas, sedum, Japanese painted fern, or brunnera. Many shrubs turn into shades of red in the fall, such as: fothergilla, hydrangea, viburnum, dogwood, black chokeberry and sumac. With some planning, you can keep your garden interesting well into the fall. Try cutting back a plant to extend its final surge in growth Some plants – perennials and annuals – will thrive after being pruned back in summer. The best candidates for the one-third prune approach are perennials that bloom on new growth: catmint, salvia, geranium, coreopsis, veronica, and bee balm. Annual blooming flowers like petunias, calibrachoa, lobelia, and verbena - these are the trailing/mounding types that genuinely get leggy – can be rejuvenated with a good trimming. Herbs fall into this same camp, since they also flower and flush out new growth continuously. Basil, mint, oregano, thyme, and tarragon all respond beautifully to a good midsummer trim. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension Leafy greens thrive in fall temps Here are some leafy greens that are candidates for August planting: kale, bok choy, spinach, chard, mustard greens, and lettuce. They flourish in early fall’s cooler temperatures and are ready to harvest in about 45 days. They are ideal for trellising or raised bed edges. Flowering plants that will work for the fall season Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension Try these suggestions to get some last-minute glory for those cool morning and hot afternoon seasonal shifts. It is always important to get things established before that first frost hits. Purple Coneflower Black Eyed Susans Blanket Flower Obedient plant Salvia Swamp milkweed Hardy Hibiscus Shasta Daisy Whatever, you try, document it for next year. No sense in making the same mistake twice. Weather can be a bit unpredictable during the fall season, so make note of those irregularities. Gardening is more like an artform sometimes. Whatever you choose: greens, flowering, native or nonnative, annuals or perennials, don’t forget to include plants that feed the pollinators as they go into hibernation or migration. They will thank you for your choices of flowering plants. Check out this link to a University of Minnesota Yard and Garden article for pollinator friendly plants. Remember to forge your inner artist and design away! Source: Gardeners swear by the one-third pruning rule to revive tired flower beds MSN Story by Debbie Wolfe Source: 11 heat-loving flowers that keep blooming all August Southern Living - Mary Marlowe Leverette Source of photos: University of Minnesota Extension Office website 2026

< Back The Mystery and Magic Hidden within a Fairy Garden Debbie Mechley, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Long before fairy gardens became a charming decorating trend, forests, springs, and ancient trees were already believed to be alive with something more than roots and water. Across many cultures, these places were thought to be home to nature spirits—quiet guardians of the wild world. The fairy garden you see today, with its tiny doors and mossy paths, is really just the newest chapter in a tradition that stretches back centuries. Enjoy this whimsical trip through a mature fairy garden and lose yourself in the magic. Long before fairy gardens became a charming decorating trend, forests, springs, and ancient trees were already believed to be alive with something more than roots and water. Across many cultures, these places were thought to be home to nature spirits—quiet guardians of the wild world. The fairy garden you see today, with its tiny doors and mossy paths, is really just the newest chapter in a tradition that stretches back centuries. A Garden That Keeps Telling Its Story Mine has been growing—and changing—for the past nine years. Plants have matured, weather has reshaped the landscape in ways I never planned, and new miniature features have found their way in season after season. That's the thing about a fairy garden, much like any garden; it is never truly finished. It simply keeps becoming. The Art of Slowing Down and Looking and Listening Closer There's something a fairy garden asks of you that few other spaces do—it asks you to slow down and observe. Only when you stop and really look do you start to notice the tiny plants, the mosses and lichens, the mushrooms pushing up through the soil, the insects going about their business. Suddenly, an entire miniature ecosystem reveals itself, one that was there all along, simply waiting to be seen. And in that miniature world, the plants are the true stars. Dwarf varieties, creeping groundcovers, slow-growing mosses—each one chosen carefully to create the illusion of a sweeping, full-sized landscape shrunk down to fit in the palm of your hand. Where Imagination Takes Root Gardening has always had a way of sparking imagination, but fairy gardens do something a little different—they invite storytelling. Children and adults alike find themselves imagining who might live among the tiny houses and stone paths, what adventures might unfold there after dark. My grandchildren love to create stories about the elementals. That spark of imagination creates an emotional connection to the garden, one that often grows into a lifelong love of gardening itself. I see this love and inspiration touch my grandchildren's hearts as they enjoy the gardens year after year. It's a connection with deep roots. Nature and folklore have always been intertwined. Stories of fairies, gnomes, elves, and other beings of the wild weren't just charming tales—they were a way for people to express their respect for forests, gardens, and the turning of the seasons. So Much More Than Make-Believe While the tiny houses and fairy doors are all in good fun, the garden itself does something quite real. It becomes a genuine miniature habitat—offering shelter and resources to beneficial insects, pollinators, frogs, birds, and other small creatures, including bunny families, that call it home. Photo credit: Debbie Mechley None of this happens overnight. Some of the most beautiful features in this garden took years to fully develop. Moss spread slowly, plants filled in on their own time, and every season added a little more character than the last. Patience, it turns out, is part of the magic. A Living Breathing Work of Art No two visits to the garden are ever quite the same. Shifting light, a passing rain, an early frost, flowers opening, seed heads forming, butterflies drifting through, birds stopping to visit—each element changes the experience just slightly, a gentle reminder that gardens aren't static decorations. They're living, breathing works of art, always in motion. And maybe that's why wonder is worth cultivating. Whether you believe in fairies, enjoy the folklore, or simply appreciate a beautiful garden for what it is, a fairy garden asks the same of all of us: slow down, notice the small things, and reconnect with the natural world. Photo credit: Debbie Mechley After caring for this fairy garden for nearly a decade, I've learned that its greatest gift isn't whether fairies actually live here—it's that it helps us see the extraordinary beauty hidden in the ordinary, all around us. If you leave here looking a little closer at nature than when you arrived, then the garden has already shared its magic. Please click the link and enjoy a short video of this fairy garden. https://youtu.be/j-FuU8LZ_o0

< Back Growing Cantaloupe Hailey Linneman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Consider a new challenge when deciding what to plant in your vegetable garden next year - a fruit! Specifically, cantaloupe! It can be a challenge to grow cantaloupe in Minnesota but it is possible. And you will be rewarded with a delicious fruit. Cantaloupe require warm soil to thrive but they love our hot, sunny summers. You can achieve success by growing cantaloupe in raised beds, trellising the vines, and making sure they get adequate water, sunlight and protection from pests. Read this article to learn more about growing cantaloupe successfully. Consider a new challenge when deciding what to plant in your vegetable garden next year - a fruit! Specifically, cantaloupe! It can be a challenge to grow cantaloupe in Minnesota (even in smaller spaces) but it is possible. And you will be rewarded with a delicious fruit. Cantaloupe require warm soil to thrive but they love our hot, sunny summers. You can achieve success by growing cantaloupe in raised beds, trellising the vines, and making sure they get adequate water, sunlight and protection from pests. Before you plant your cantaloupe, consider getting a soil test. Melons grow best in well-drained, sandy loam soils, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. A pH lower than 6.0 may result in a failed crop. Next, choose a melon variety that requires fewer days to harvest (65 – 80). This will increase the chances of growing the fruit in hot, sunny conditions. Decide if you want to start your seeds indoors or sow directly into your garden. Starting seeds indoors will give you a few extra weeks of growth, however cantaloupe are sensitive to root disturbance. You can sow seeds directly into your garden after the danger of frost has passed. Raised beds are ideal options for cantaloupe because the soil will warm up sooner. Additionally, raised beds offer good drainage, which is important for growing melons. small growing cantaloupe; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman To save space in your garden beds, you can trellis your melons. As the plants grow, tie them loosely to your trellis. Eventually, they will continue to grow around the trellis without your help. Depending on the size of your fruit, they may need extra support in the form of hammocks. You can use old nylons or t-shirts for this. However, if the vines are securely on the trellis, they should be able to hold the hanging fruit on its own. melon in sling; Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension As your cantaloupe begins to really take off in growth, pruning side shoots will encourage the main stem to continue growing up your trellis. It is also important to prune back side shoots on a trellised plant to avoid overcrowding and encourage air flow. Cutting off all leaves and side shoots on the bottom 12 inches of the plant will also help to avoid diseases from water splashing on the plant. A pest you may encounter is the striped cucumber beetle ( Acalymma vittatum ). It is yellow with three vertical black stripes. To remove the beetles, knock them into a cup of soapy water. The beetles feast on the foliage and blossoms of flowering plants. It is especially important to manage these pests when the plants are small. Read this article to learn more about the striped cucumber beetle. Striped cucumber beetles can carry the bacteria that causes bacterial wilt. Since melons are susceptible to bacterial wilt, monitor your plants for signs of the disease. Read more about bacterial wilt in this article . Other pests to watch for are spotted cucumber beetle, squash vine borer, squash bug, spider mites and aphids. striped cucumber beetle; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman Cantaloupe require 35 – 45 days to mature after flowering. When your fruit is ready to harvest, it will turn from green to yellow and the netting on the skin will become rough. You will also notice that the stem will start to turn brown. To harvest, twist the fruit gently. It should break away easily. Now, it’s time to slice open your melon and enjoy the fruit of your labor! maturing, hanging cantaloupe; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/gardening-minnesota/growing-melons-home-garden Cucumber beetle link: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/cucumber-beetles Bacterial wilt link: https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/bacterial-wilt

< Back Early Spring Blooming Plants Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. CROCUS is one of the first bulb plants to peak its head up in early spring. They are a very reliable plant and frost tolerant. They grow 3-6” tall and are available in multiple colors in shades of purple, orange, pink, and white. They like full sun to part shade and prefer a slightly neutral soil pH of 6.0-7.0, but well-draining soil is very important. DAFFODILS are also an early spring plant best known for their bright yellow trumpet shaped flower. They grow in clumps and unlike tulip bulbs, they have little appeal to wildlife. Planting them amongst snowdrops, hyacinths and tulips provides a wonderful array of colors. They tolerate full sun to part shade with a slightly neutral pH soil (6.0-7.0). DWARF IRIS is a fragrant miniature plant that blooms early in the season and grows to about 6-8”. They bloom in two waves in various shades of dark to light blue, and purple making them ideal for borders. They prefer full sun to part shade, good soil drainage, and spread through underground rhizomatous stems filling the garden with beautiful spring blooms. HYACINTH loves full sun to part shade in a well-drained soil with pH close to neutral (7.0). This plant is well suited to Zones 4-8 and range in height from 6-12”. This plant has a very fragrant flower with tiny blooms resembling bunches of grapes. TULIPS bloom early in the spring season along with daffodils and crocus. They do best in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5. Colors include orange, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and numerous multi colors that grow to 12-18” tall. EASTER LILY – Lilies are very flamboyant with beautiful flowers and an intensely sweet fragrance. Easter lilies are white in color although there are numerous types of lilies such as Asiatic and Oriental hybrids that come in many colors. The lily is an upright perennial that ranges in height from 2-8’ tall. Don’t forget, once that easter lily is done blooming, cut the stems down and plant the bulb in the garden so you can enjoy it again next spring. Lilies grow best in slightly alkaline (6.5-7.0) moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter. Fall is the time to plant the bulbs for most of these plants, so, if you haven’t planted any of these spring delights in your garden yet, I hope you are inspired to do so this year. Then look forward to a rainbow of color in the spring. Photo Credits: Carolyn Plank (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Julie Weisenhorn, University of Minnesota Extension (3), Woodies Garden Goods (4 - Creative Commons License) (4), Pixnio (Creative Commons License) (5), MaxPixel (Creative Commons License) (6)

< Back Tomato Harvesting A BLT Lovers Guide to the Picking Process Tom Molitor and Scott Soltis, Dakota County Master Gardeners It’s August in Minnesota, the summer solstice is in the rear-view mirror, the neighborhood is still ringing with the sound of July 4th exploding fireworks, and your backyard garden is also exploding with Cherokee Purples, Red Romas and Green Zebras. If you’re like any other gardener, you’re probably doing one of two things at the moment: staring lovingly at your green vined tomatoes, or aggressively imagining them fully ripe on your kitchen counter. This article has some helpful tips for harvesting tomatoes successfully. The timing may surprise you! Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension Thanks to the June rain (plus whatever diligent watering you've managed to keep up with), those tomato plants are filled with fruit, the finish line is finally in sight, and maybe, just maybe, you’ve already experienced that early-summer joy of plucking the first, sun-warmed cherry tomato of the season and eating it right there, dirt and all. But here is where we backyard growers can get nervous. This is Minnesota. Our weather loves to throw curveballs, and waiting too long to harvest means losing our hard work to such things as sudden hailstorms (yes, it’s a thing), persistent pests, or even an early autumn frost. Harvesting your tomatoes at the right time ensures the best flavor and prevents loss to pests or extreme weather. When trying to get perfect flavor while protecting your harvest, one logical trick is to ripen tomatoes indoors without sacrificing taste by picking fruits when they reach their mature size and begin changing color (the "breaker stage"). Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need to leave your tomatoes on the vine until they are fully red. In fact, pulling them a little early is often the smartest move you can make. For that perfect tomato, let’s talk about picking (the When and the How), along with post-harvest secrets of the storage process. When to Pick The Breaker Stage: The ideal time to harvest is when the tomato is blushing (about 30% to 40% full color). Once they reach this stage, they are as sweet as they will ever be. Hot or Wet Weather: If you are expecting a heatwave (over 90 degrees Fahrenheit) or heavy rain, pick blushing tomatoes immediately. This prevents sunscald and splitting. Firmness: Gently squeeze the tomato. It should feel firm with just a slight, soft give. Photo Credit: www.ruralsprout.com How to Pick Do Not Pull: Pulling the fruit can damage the main stem and invite disease. Use Pruners: Ideally use sharp bypass pruners or scissors to clip the stem about 1–2 inches above the fruit. This allows the small green cap (calyx) to stay on the fruit, prolonging its freshness. Handle Gently: Tomatoes bruise easily, so place them in a single layer in a basket or tray. Harvest Process Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to place tomatoes. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade and should not be used. Clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) are recommended when picking tomatoes of any size or color. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing tomatoes into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce. Discard tomatoes that have signs of nibbling, and or have visible animal feces on them. Post-Harvest & Storage Ripening Indoors: Leave partially colored tomatoes on your kitchen counter. Cover them loosely with a tea towel. One way to speed the process naturally, is to place a ripe banana or apple nearby. Important Storage Warnings: It is not a good practice to place fresh tomatoes in the refrigerator. Temperatures below 55°F ruin the texture, leaving the flesh mealy and flavorless. We have such a short growing season in Minnesota we want to be ready to harvest tomatoes, for a multitude of uses such as: Sauces & soups Salads & salsas: e.g. caprese salads, bruschetta, and gazpacho; Sandwiches & toppings (BLT-the greatest sandwich) Preserves-jams jellies and Skincare: Tomato extracts are naturally rich in vitamin C and are frequently used in home remedies to brighten skin and reduce dark spots. No matter which of these are your reasons to grow tomatoes, our common goal is a productive growing season and a great harvest. For a clear visual demonstration of the perfect time to pick and how to harvest without damaging the plant see these videos: video 1 , video 2 (1, 2). The resources below also include a brief description of tomato problems including pests (3) and more on growing and harvesting vegetables in your garden (4). These last two resources are University of Minnesota Master Gardener articles. In addition, there is a fascinating article from a Master Gardener from the University of Vermont on the History of the Tomato (5). Who knew tomatoes originated from the Aztecs? You have worked hard to produce beautiful, delicious tomatoes in your garden. Complete the process by smart harvesting and storage techniques. Then – enjoy! Photo Credit: www.clamorworld.com Resources. The Perfect time to harvest a tomato. Joe Gardener https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LedqNa6g80k ; Harvesting Tomatoes . Penn State Extension. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-koSjUj7kU ; Tomato Problems : Janice Gestner, Master Gardener | DCMGV Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/bythemonth/tips-for-safely-growing-and-harvesting-vegetables-and-fruit-in-your-garden ; A History of Tomatoes | University of Vermont Homegrown tomatoes by John Denver. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwRn7A-TWrQ ;

< Back Spring is the Time for Wedding Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the season for weddings which prompts Master Gardener Joy Johnson to think about Italian Wedding Soup. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings; it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Read and learn how to make this soup part of your soup rotation – any time of the year. And, as a bonus, learn how to make Apple Butter to enjoy with your soup! It is so exciting that spring has arrived in Minnesota, I’ve doubled the size of my vegetable garden this year and started dozens of vegetables in early spring in the house. Now it’s time to put them out into the garden. They are all still young plants, many weeks away from harvest. But I am anticipating a bountiful harvest, so I need to use up what I canned, dried and froze from last year’s harvest to make room for this year’s produce. Spring is also the season for weddings, which makes my mind wander to Italian Wedding soup , which I love. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings, it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Usually, this soup takes a long time to make because it traditionally has tons of tiny little meatballs. Instead, I season ground chicken with lots of herbs and spices and then brown it. You get all the same flavors and textures without all the work. This soup is made silky and rich by the eggs stirred in at the end that cook into yummy wisps. I serve this soup with my homemade apple butter spread on my sour dough bread, with a glass of my homemade apple juice. I got a fruit steamer last fall and steamed my apples to get a fresh, sugar free, juice. Then I pressure canned the quarts of juice. We’ve been enjoying it all winter long and have just finished our last quart. The recipe for the apple butter makes very good use of the apple chunks that I had frozen last fall and is quick to make using a blender. Italian Wedding Soup Ingredients : ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 lb. ground chicken or turkey 1 medium onion ¼ cup dried parsley 1 T. dried basil 1 T. dried oregano 2 tsp. smoked paprika1 ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese Crushed red pepper flakes Fine pink Himalayan salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 medium carrots, chopped (fresh or frozen) 4 celery stalks, chopped 2 T. finely chopped garlic 8 cups chicken broth 6 cups spinach (fresh or frozen) 10 ounces cheese tortellini 2 T. lemon juice 2 large eggs Process : In a large pot combine the olive oil, chicken, onion, parsley, basil, oregano, paprika, ¼ cup of the Parmesan and a pinch each of red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Place pot over medium-high heat and cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon until the meat is browned and the onion is soft and translucent, 5-8 minutes. Add the carrots, celery and garlic. Cook stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 5 minutes. Add the broth and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the flavors are married, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach, tortellini, and lemon juice. Cook until the tortellini are al dente, 5 minutes more. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Slowly drizzle the egg mixture into the broth, stirring the soup constantly and gently to form thin strands of cooked egg, about 30 seconds. Ladle into bowls and serve, topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. Maple Apple Butter Ingredients : 10 cups chopped apples, fresh or frozen 1 ¼ cups apple juice (or apple cider if you don’t have fresh juice) ½ cup pure maple syrup, plus more as needed 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves Pinch of fine pink Himalayan salt Process : Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a blender, working in batches as needed, combine the apples with the apple juice/cider and blend until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a 9x13-inch baking dish. Add the maple syrup, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt and stir to combine. Roast for 30-35 minutes. Give the apple butter a stir and reduce the oven temperature to 350. Continue roasting, stirring every 30 minutes, for 1 to 1 ½ hours more until the apple butter is thick and golden brown. Taste and add more maple syrup as needed. Discard the cinnamon sticks, if using. Let the apple butter cool. Store refrigerated in airtight glass jars for up to 1 month. I also use this apple butter to make Chai Donuts , but you will have to wait until next month for that recipe! Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-3)

< Back Microgreens - Only Micro in Size Did you think that you would have to wait until spring to grow fresh greens for your dinner table? Not so if you read this article and learn how to grow microgreens indoors. Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens-accept their size! Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens - except their size! A microgreen is a plant in between the sprout stage and the baby stage of development. When we eat microgreens, we are eating the cotyledon (the embryonic leaf or leaves inside the seed) and a few of the plant’s true leaves. There are many benefits to growing and eating microgreens. They go from sowing to harvest in one to three weeks with minimal opportunities for failure. They can be grown indoors year-round. According to research , t hey contain 4 to 40 times more nutrients than full-grown plants. There are many varieties of microgreens available to grow and they all provide a delicious and fresh addition to many meals even in the dead of winter. When selecting your first microgreen variety to grow, something from the mustard family (Brassicaceae)—such as arugula, mustard or radish—is a good place to start as they germinate quickly and have a lot of flavor. Microgreen growing kits are growing in popularity and offer an effortless first foray into microgreen enjoyment. Many seed catalogue companies—"Johnny’s” and “High Mowing Seeds” to name two—have extensive microgreen seed selections complete with growing guides and they also have any supplies needed to start your growing operation. Here is what you will need to grow microgreens at home: 1) Any clean container with drainage holes (existing or added): think mushroom containers, salad mix containers, bottom half of a milk jug or even an egg carton and a tray to set the container in; 2) Seed-starting mix; 3) Organic, non-GMO seed from a reliable seed source; 4) A spray bottle or misting pump-sprayer for watering the delicate seedlings; and 5) A window or grow light or combination of the two; enough to provide 16 hours of light per day and at least 6 hours of darkness. More extensive microgreen growing can be done just as easily by the at-home gardener by upgrading to standard greenhouse growing trays called 1020 flats, high-output grow lights, a fan running on the plants to inhibit the growth of fungus and mold and liquid seaweed nutrients added to the water to boost nutrient values after seed germination. When starting your microgreens, ensure your seed-starting mix is tamped down, moist (but not too wet) and about 1.5 inches in depth. Your seed source or packet should have variety-specific directions for how thickly to sow seeds in your container. Keeping the seeds moist and in contact with the growing medium until germination, is essential. A seed sprouting lid works well as do damp paper towels. When the seeds have fully germinated and there are visible roots coming through the drain holes in your container, you can start watering from the bottom to reduce the risk of fungal growth and damaging or flattening your plants during watering. Microgreens are tender, delicate and best when eaten raw after minimal handling. Harvesting should occur when the plants are between 2 and 4 inches tall and have at least one true leaf. Cut the plants off just above the level of the soil, lightly wash and completely dry in a salad spinner and enjoy. Cut greens can be stored in a closed plastic container or bag in the fridge for up to three days and washed before enjoying. Alternately, washed greens can be stored after completely drying them using kitchen or paper towels. Enjoy your fresh and vibrant greens on almost anything; sandwiches, salads, pasta, pizza, stir fry or all on their own. There is an abundance of reliable micro greens resources on the internet—here are a few: https://themicrogardener.com/easy-guide-to-growing-microgreens/ https://microgreensworld.com/ https://extension.psu.edu/a-step-by-step-guide-for-growing-microgreens-at-home Photo credits: Joanna Kapke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Succulents - It Is What to Grow in July Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener In May, the annuals were planted, but as the hot and dry days of July arrive are some of your annual planters looking overgrown or have they lost their curb appeal? Are your children still wanting to play in the dirt? Then look no further than the world of succulents. Succulents can easily be added to existing planters to refresh the look or they can be planted alone in a container. Explore with your child what makes succulents so unique and start planting! What is so unique about a succulent ? Succulents store water in their leaves - it allows them to survive in hot/dry conditions. Waxy coverings on the leaves help retain moisture and their root systems are not deep which allows for quicker water absorption when there is not much water available. Succulents come in all shapes, sizes and textures and their colors and markings vary as well. Lithops - look like stones or pebbles Sedums - small leaves form in clusters - usually round leaves Echeverias - often resemble a flower - leaves are thick and arranged in rosettes Cacti – yes, a cactus is a succulent - but as they say, all succulents are not cacti; spiky thick stems Cacti Planting our Succulent Planter Succulents can be added to an existing planter if the correct conditions and soil exist, but if they don’t, start by picking an empty planter where your succulents can receive a lot of indirect sunlight. Succulents come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors so let your child choose 3-5 succulent plants depending on the size of your planter. Most succulents will do well in shallow planters, but any will do. Let’s get planting! Gather the following : Succulents (1-5 based on size of container) Planter/Container - well draining and shallow is better Succulent/Cacti Soil - well draining soil Pebbles/Small River Rock for top dressing (optional) Planting Time Child can choose succulents - choose an appropriate number to fit the container Children can fill the planter with succulent/cacti soil, leaving about ½” to 1 “from rim of planter Before planting - arrange succulents in planter; once you have decided on the best arrangement, then planting can begin Succulent leaves can be fragile and can break off easily so please use caution when planting. If you have chosen to plant cacti then it will be helpful to have rubberized gloves on and possibly use a tong to place the cacti in the pot. Dig small hole for the succulent; place succulent in hole and then gently fill in around plant. Repeat the process above until all succulents are planted. Watering/Sunlight Key to watering is less is best . Succulents can thrive with little water. Invite your child to water, but emphasize that less water is needed for succulents. The best method for watering succulents is to thoroughly water the succulent until the soil is saturated (runs through) and then allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Succulents may dry out quicker when outside, but do not overwater. Sunlight is important to succulents; however, it’s best not to place the plant in direct sun, but instead bright indirect sunlight. Enjoy your new summer creation - the Succulent Planter. Don’t forget your new creation can be brought inside in the Fall when temperatures begin to cool. The succulent planter is a great addition to your “garden” - inside and out. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1,2), www.pexels.com (3,4)

< Back No More Stringy Petunias! Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. Read this article to learn what to do to keep your beautiful petunias looking full and fluffy. Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on, petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. So, what to do? Yank them out and put new ones in? Give up on them and replace them with a hardier plant, maybe a marigold? However, between replacing petunias and giving up on them altogether there is a third option: pruning them. Read on to learn how to prune petunias successfully. Pruning petunias will keep them full and fluffy all summer long. There is some work involved, but replacing petunias with more petunias or other flowers is also work. And not only that, it’s expensive and it involves running around to big box stores and nurseries to see if either one has any decent flowers left. In addition, pruning your petunias keeps your original design and color scheme in place and involves only minutes of work throughout the summer. To keep petunias blooming prolifically we must remember their mission, in fact the mission of all plants: to perpetuate the species. When the bloom on a petunia drops off its pod it creates a seed which will hopefully go on to create another petunia. Having accomplished its mission, the petunia dies in peace, leaving behind leggy and scraggly branches without flowers. The point of pruning is to send the opposite message to the petunia: you have not completed your mission. You have not set seed (because I have cut off all your seed pods). You must keep blooming, staying full and fluffy, until I decide to stop cutting them off (usually sometime in September, or sooner if we have an early frost). See the photo where the woman is about to cut off the pod where the bloom once grew? You must trim the petunia BEHIND THAT pod, which holds the seed, to convince the petunia she still has work to do and must continue to produce blooms. Petunias have many blooms and their seed pods often hide underneath the bottoms of branches, behind other blooming flowers. If you leave pruning them until they start to look “scraggly”, you may spend anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours pruning your petunias. It’s a tedious mission of search and destroy. There is an easier way . Buy a small pair of pointed scissors with colorful handles (so you can spot them in the soil) available at the Dollar Store or Michaels. In fact, buy one for every pot and bed of petunias if they are at some distance from each other. Stick the scissors point down into the pot or bed next to your petunias. Any time you are out in your yard inspecting or admiring your garden, check your petunias for spent blossoms and spend a minute or two cutting off the empty pods. A minute or two every day or so equals enough time to keep your petunias glorious all season. You can also prune for shape and form. If, in spite of your consistent pruning, your petunias develop leggy branches, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch in front of the new growth . You can also prune any branches that are not keeping to the design or shape you wish. Again, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch right in front of it. Do this consistently and the work will be minimal. Your petunias will outdo themselves producing blooms to complete their mission and you will enjoy full and fluffy petunias all summer! References: https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/growing-petunias https://icultivate.net/how-to-prune-petunias / https://www.epicgardening.com/prune-petunias/ https://www.gardendesign.com/how-to/prune-petunias.html Photo Credits: UMN Extension (1,4 ), Susan Ball (2,3)