Trees & Shrubs A Rapid Growing Native Shade Tree: The Birch (Betula spp.) The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. But, hold on, there are facts to understand about various types of birch to ensure that the one that you choose will thrive in your yard. This article focuses on three types of birch that are commonly used in Minnesota. Read More A Tree for All Seasons: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp) For the smaller yard, a smaller tree can be just the right touch. A forty-foot oak might be a bit overpowering, but a so-called “understory tree” can be the perfect landscaping accent to make the house appear to be a welcoming homestead. One excellent candidate is the native Serviceberry. Read More American Beech (Fagus grandifolia): An All American! Think of the majestic forests of the early Midwest and you think of glorious beech trees. They and their cousins, the oaks and chestnuts are the noble components of a climax mesic forest. This magnificent tree has a unique trunk and puts on a beautiful show of color in the fall. But there are some things you need to know to grow this tree successfully. Read this article to learn more. Read More American Holly (Ilex opaca): Deck the Halls! American holly is a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes. But this tree is also a great year-round addition to the landscape. Read this article to learn why. Read More American Smoketree - An American Beauty This month, MG Jim Lakin continues his series on smaller understory native trees with an article on the American Smoketree. This beautiful specimen can be pruned to be a small tree or large bush. It features stunning “smoke-like” clusters of flowers from which its name is derived. Read Jim’s article to learn more about this stunning specimen tree for your yard. Read More Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea): A “Star of the North” It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens but as this article explains, providing greenery in Minnesota winters is just one of the benefits of having a Balsam Fir in your yard. Balsam Fir is a beautiful native tree worth consideration for your part shady yard. Read More Best Time to Prune Trees Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. Read More Beware the Majestic Black Walnut Tree The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape and provides food for wildlife and humans. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Read this article to understand the pros and significant cons of growing a black walnut tree near a garden where you plan to grow flowers or vegetables. Read More Black Chokeberry: Showy but Well-Behaved Read More Black Spruce (Picea mariana): A Northwoods Native As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains, you don’t need to go to the Rhine country in Germany to see a cathedral of natural majesty. This month, Jim profiles the mighty and beautiful Black Spruce (pices mariana). Black Spruce is native to Minnesota and can grow to 50-100 feet under the right environmental conditions. But other varieties have been developed for landscape use. Read on to learn more about this magnificent conifer. Read More Buckthorn Removal Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, what kind of treatment plan should you use? Read on for tips to use in removing this invasive plant. Read More Buttonbush (Queen of the Wetlands) Buttonbush is a great shrub for naturalizing in wet areas and attracts butterflies. Read more about its attributes. Read More 1 2 3 1 ... 1 2 3 ... 3

< Back Cooking with Native Plants Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. I thought you would enjoy trying a couple of recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures. Several Native American cultures consider wild rice to be a sacred component in their culture. The rice is harvested with a canoe: one person “knocks” rice into the canoe with two small poles (called “knockers” or “flails”) while the other paddles slowly or uses a push pole. For these groups, this harvest is an important cultural (and often economic) event. Commercial cultivation began in the late 1900’s in California and Minnesota. Wild rice has a delicious nutty, hearty flavor and a chewy texture. Today it is mainly cultivated in paddy fields, although I’ve seen traditional harvesting areas in northern Minnesota. Wild rice is primarily a source of carbohydrates and contains a moderately high amount of fiber. It also contains a variety of vitamins (Folate, B2 and B6 are the top 3) and minerals (Copper, Zinc and Magnesium are the top 3). Compared to white rice, wild rice is lower in calories, higher in fiber, sugars, fat and protein as well as Omega-3 and Omega-6. [insert photo 1] Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding Ingredients : Wild Rice part: 4 cups water 1 cup Chippewa wild rice 1 tsp salt ½ tsp vanilla extract Blueberry Mixture: 1 cup blueberries, dried 2 qts Milk 2 Tbsp vanilla extract 16 eggs warmed to room temperature 2 cups sugar Dash freshly grated nutmeg, to taste Instructions for the Wild Rice part : Wash the Chippewa wild rice Put the water, wild rice, vanilla, and salt in a two-quart saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the mixture for 45-60 minutes. Simmer with the cover on and stop when you notice the rice is puffy and the liquid has been completely absorbed. Fluff the rice with a fork and continue cooking with the lid off until any excess liquid evaporates. Set aside. Instructions for the Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding : Oil a large baking pan (13” x 9”) Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Prepare blueberries by pouring enough boiling water over them to cover them and let them soak for five minutes. Place the cooked wild rice and blueberries in the oiled baking pan. Heat the milk and vanilla extract in a saucepan over medium heat, until the milk is scalded. Mix the eggs and sugar in a separate bowl at high speed until the mixture is foamy. Whisk the scalded milk into the eggs until thoroughly blended. Pour the mixture on top of the rice and blueberries and stir it very carefully just until blended. Top with nutmeg as desired. Place it in the oven and bake it for 1 ¼ hours, or until edges are golden brown. Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin Pumpkins are actually considered a fruit, not a vegetable, and belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes cucumbers, melons, squash, and gourds. They did not always appear as they appear today. They resembled something like the Crooked-neck squash of today. Native Americans called pumpkins “isqoutm squash” and used them as a staple in their diets centuries before the Pilgrims landed. A non-food use was drying strips of pumpkin, pounding it flat, then weaving it into mats. They would roast long strips of pumpkin and seeds on the open fire, or it could be boiled, baked and eaten. It could be easily stored and dried for extended use through the long winters. Pumpkins were used to feed livestock and still are. When my family lived on the farm, every November we would haul our trailer to the pumpkin farm down the road and load up all their unsold, old, damaged pumpkins and feed them to our pigs. That pork was tender, delicious and low fat with a slight hint of pumpkin flavor. Ingredients: 1 small pumpkin (use a pie pumpkin, like Baby Bear, Cinderella or Dickenson; this is the pumpkin that Libby uses for its canned pumpkin) ¼ cup maple syrup ¼ cup apple cider ¼ cup butter, melted Instructions for the Pumpkin : Preheat oven to 350 degrees Place whole pumpkin in oven for 1 ½ to 2 hours Remove pumpkin from oven Keep the oven on and maintain 350-degree temperature. Cut a hole in the top and remove it Scoop out the seeds Set seeds aside for later eating Scoop out the pulp into a large bowl Add the maple syrup and apple cider to the pulp, mix well Pour back into pumpkin shell Bake for 35-40 minutes Cut into wedges and serve Instructions for the pumpkin seeds : Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Wash the seeds well Spread evenly, without layering them, onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt Back, checking often until seeds are dried Remove from oven and serve Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back Wander the Winter Wonderlands of Minnesota Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener As we embark into our Minnesota winter, let’s wander into the many winter wonderlands in our state. The landscape is transforming into a quiet, snow-covered land, where nature’s beauty takes on a serene and magical existence. Many Minnesota outdoor and indoor garden sights are offered in the winter with opportunities of quiet meditation, reconnection with nature and new interaction with our environment. Let’s explore the winter garden possibilities available to us in Minnesota in this article. GO OUTSIDE Many options exist in Minnesota to embrace the magic of the landscape, dusted with the delicate powder of snow and its meditative stillness. Also, some places allow for more active winter interaction, like cross country skiing, snow shoeing, ice skating or snowmobiling. Here are some suggestions: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum: Trails for driving, walking, snow showing, cross country skiing. https://arb.umn.edu/winter St. Paul Winter Farmers’ Market: Featuring many Minnesota grown or made products available during the off-season, such as meats, cheese, eggs, honey, bakery goods, and milk. https://minnesotagrown.com/member/st-paul-downtown-farmers-winter-mkt/ Walker Sculpture Garden: View the larger-than-life sculptures, including the infamous Spoonbridge and Cherry. https://walkerart.org/visit/garden/ Franconia Sculpture Park : Acres of outdoor sculptures on hand, with a Midwinter Celebration, held in January. https://www.franconia.org/about/ Gold Medal Park: Located in the heart of Minneapolis, along the Mis sissippi River, with spectacular views of Downtown. https://www.nps.gov/miss/planyourvisit/goldmedal.htm Rice Park: In the middle of downtown St. Paul, it hosts the St. Paul Winter Carnival. https://www.familyfuntwincities.com/rice-park-st-paul/ The trails of our many Dakota County-area parks, including: Lebanon Hills Regional Park, Whitetail Woods Regional Park, Mississipi River Greenway, Spring Lake Park Reserve. WARM UP INSIDE Como Conservatory : A plethora of indoor gardens, including the sunken garden, bonzai collection, fern room and orchid house. https://comozooconservatory.org/category/como-gardens/ Minneapolis Farmers’ Market : At a few different locations, these farmers’ markets can fill your hunger for Minnesota grown produce and products. https://farmersmarketsofmpls.org/winter-markets/ Conservatory and Botanical Collection at UMN College of Biological Sciences Conservatory : Come see this unique and extensive, indoor plant collection. https://cbs.umn.edu/conservatory Edinborough Park: Come play at the indoor playground and ice rink in Edina, surrounded by indoor gardens, ponds and water falls. https://mngardens.horticulture.umn.edu/edinborough-park These are just some of many winter wonderland choices in Minnesota. Get out there this winter, and sample its wonder! When you come back inside, your cheeks rosy from the cold and your mind filled with peaceful images, you realize that winter isn’t something to endure—it’s something to embrace. Other sources of fun: https://mngardens.horticulture.umn.edu/view-by-season Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Dormant Seeding, Preparing Your Lawn for Next Year Vida Dam, Dakota County Master Gardener Plant grass seed in your lawn now? We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. Dormant seeding has many benefits, as discussed in this article, but certain methods must be used in order to achieve success. Read on to discover how to dormant seed your lawn. We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. The benefits of the cold will prevent the seed from germinating this year, leverage our Minnesota's natural freeze-thaw cycle of winters to work the seed into the soil, and allow the new grass seed to germinate very early in the spring when it is still wet and cold. Dormant seeding gives the lawn a head start next year before the summer heat and annual weeds emerge. Is this good for every lawn? This is great for sparse lawns, bare patches, and thin lawns that need to be thickened. It is not as effective if the lawn is already thick and dense as the seed needs good seed-to-soil contact. When to Dormant Seed the lawn? Timing is very important as grass seeds should not germinate this fall. If the seed germinate/sprout this fall, the immature seedlings may not survive the winter. The target is to apply the dormant seeds before the first major snowfall between mid/late October to mid-November when the temperature is too cold for germination. The seed must be put down while the ground is not frozen but is cold. Day time temperature should be around 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit, and soil temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. ** Tip : if the lawn is actively growing and being mowed, it is too early for dormant seeding. How to Dormant Seed - the steps: Select the desired grass seed: For Minnesota lawns look up options based on site conditions and maintenance on the UMN extension. (see additional resources below) An average Minnesota lawn may have a mix of Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, and small amounts of perennial ryegrass. Prepare the lawn: Mow the existing lawn slightly lower than normal to approximately 2 inches in order to allow the seed to reach the soil. Loosen the soil surface so the seed can have easier seed to soil contact. Using a hand rake for small areas of bare or thin lawn is an option. For larger areas, a vertical mower, dethatcher, or scarifier is an option. Rake up any debris Spread the seed & ensure contact: Use the recommended rate for the grass seed and lightly incorporate it into the existing soil with a hand rake. Water lightly & thoroughly Water the area lightly and thoroughly after laying the seed. Do not water too much, the soil should be barely damp - between dry and damp. Only in extreme drought, is additional watering needed. Continuous watering is not needed until the seed germinate in the spring. What to expect in the Spring: The results of dormant seeding depend on Minnesota winter conditions. With more snowfall that can cover and protect the areas, the higher chance of success. Seedlings will germinate by late April and early May as the temperature warms. Be patient as it takes 10-14 plus days for grass to sprout. If the area is a little thin, give it some time and it is not unusual to have additional reseeding in the spring. Avoid heavy traffic on the young seedlings and consider fertilization to assist with lawn establishment Warning: Do not apply a pre-emergent weed preventer in the spring as it will prevent grass seed from germinating. Happy dormant seeding! For more information, please see links and resources below: Learn More here: Dormant Seeding: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/dormant-seeding Dormant Seeding Bee Lawns: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dormant-seeding-bee-lawns#:~:text=Dormant%20seeding%20provides%20the%20best,soil%20moisture%20for%20germinating%20seeds Turfgrass Seed for Minnesota Lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/buying-turfgrass-seed-minnesota-lawns Gall Dormant Seed: https://www.gertens.com/learn/fall-dormant-seeding#:~:text=Photo%20by%20the%20University%20of,your%20new%20seed%20will%20sprout . Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back How To Prepare New Fruit Trees for the Winter Months Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Here are some steps you can take throughout the year for the greatest chance of success no matter what Mother Nature throws at you! During the growing season - thin the smallest fruits from your tree to encourage growth of larger fruits (cherries are an exception). If too much fruit is on the tree, nutrients are more dispersed leading to smaller fruit this season and less fruit for the following year. For apples and pears, thin to 1-2 fruits per spur for every 6 inches of branch. For apples, this is done before the fruit is the width of a marble in June or July. Make sure there aren't any ripe fruits left on the tree so limbs do not break from the extra weight. Your fruit tree is going to need some training to become fully winter hardy and survive the cold temperatures. Hold off on the fertilizer after July. This includes any lawn areas within 20 feet of your tree. You don’t want to stimulate growth and delay the hardening-off process. This gradual process starts up in the buds and ends in the trunk. At the end of the season (October and November) - clean the fallen fruits and leaves off the ground around your tree. Skipping this step creates more opportunities for fungal disease and insect issues for the following spring. Keep this type of litter out of your compost pile to reduce disease in your yard overall in case pathogens are present. Adding 3 inches of organic mulch around the base of your tree helps retain water and will insulate the soil around your plant’s roots. Think of it as tucking in your plant with a nice mulch blankie but not too tight! Make sure to keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk and continue to provide adequate amounts of water until the ground is frozen. If the weather turns too cold too quickly, the tree can be damaged. There can also be damage if the weather turns unseasonably warm in the winter. White plastic guards or tree wrap should be applied to the trunk in November. These will help reflect the sun’s rays so the tree’s cells don’t wake up on those nice warm and sunny days, re-freeze and damage the trunk’s tissues. Just make sure to take those guards off again in the spring so it doesn’t create a haven for fungi. Take a moment and put a reminder in your calendar right now! Plum tree protection Cut down any plants at the base of your tree or around your shrub to prevent unwanted creatures from nibbling on the trunk during the winter. Bury ¼ inch mesh galvanized hardware cloth up to 4 inches in the ground to prevent small rodents from nibbling and girdling the trunk of the tree. Imagine there’s snow on the ground and how high a rabbit (not a rodent but equally as destructive) could reach. Leave enough room with meshing for the tree to grow into over a few seasons as well as any stakes for new trees the first year. Large fencing and tubes can be used to minimize deer browse and antler rubbing. Once temperatures have plummeted, enjoy your time off from tree care! In the late winter or early spring, after the severely cold temperatures have passed, it’s time to prune your fruit trees. For trees less than three years old, opt for later rather than earlier. Young apple tree needing pruning With some preparations and a little luck, you’ll be enjoying the fruits of your labor this coming growing season! Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples https://extension.umaine.edu/fruit/growing-fruit-trees-in-maine/preparing-trees-for-winter/ https://extension.unh.edu/blog/2020/10/how-do-i-prepare-my-backyard-fruits-winter https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/fruit#stone-fruits-2394860 https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-newly-planted-trees-and-shrubs https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/em-9598-fruit-thinning https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/white-tailed-deer-damage#netting%2C-tubes-or-other-protective-structures-1880562 Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), Amanda Drews (2)

< Back Pumpkin Power: Creative Uses for October’s Harvest Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. Unknown to most, the pumpkin is considered a winter squash and is also considered a modified berry known as a pepo like cucumbers and watermelons. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but also can be promoted as a great natural fertilizer, and an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes! Crafting and Decor: DIY Projects for Fall Everyone knows the most common use for a pumpkin in the fall: carving! A tradition in my household, this activity can be done with the whole family, and each person can personalize them by carving them however they see fit. There are entire websites just dedicated to helping provide ideas for pumpkin carving . Don't forget a candle! If carving isn't your cup of tea, there are also a multitude of no-carve options for turning a pumpkin into a simple art project! Get some paint or markers and turn that crazy berry into a work of art! Whether it's glow in the dark paint , artistic interpretations of woodland creatures , or even stained glass . I know I’m excited to try my hand at hand painted florals , and faux gold paint ! A few eco-friendly options for this seasonal gourd are turning them into bird feeders or even compostable plant pots ! Culinary Uses: Delicious Dishes to Try Pumpkins are great as they are not only good for decorations, but also amazing in cooked dishes and baked goods too. One significant savory pumpkin-based dish is pumpkin soup , that uses broth, cream, and your choice of spices to season. If you have more of a sweet tooth, my favorite thanksgiving recipe is a simple no bake pumpkin pie . Try to use all parts of the pumpkin! The pumpkin flesh, or rind, can be made into great chips ! Pumpkin seeds are also multitudinous, with each pumpkin containing up to 500 seeds. The seeds can also be baked , and they are a great source of protein and iron. My favorite receipt involves coating the seeds in a fine layer of sea salt for a salty snack! Pumpkin in the Garden: A Natural Fertilizer Lastly, as the season comes to a close, pumpkins are one of the first signs that winter is coming, as their decay is coming fast. As these fall icons start to decline, the best thing you can do may also be the best thing for your garden: Compost! You can use a knife or shovel (or even sledgehammer) to break the pumpkins down. Once the pumpkin is into pieces, you can slightly bury the pieces and cover with newspaper and soil (to prevent pests), or allow them to compost in your own compost pile. If you are going to return them to the soil, make sure to remove any decorations and wax, and also ensure to do your best to remove seeds fully or else you may end up with some unwanted sprouts come spring. If your pumpkins are painted or decorated with any kind of marker, sadly composting is not the best option as this can contaminate the soil. Do your best to use what you can, and your garden and yard will thank you. Pumpkins are a foundation of fall and starting your traditions with your family can make the season that much more fun! Try any of the tips and this article to improve your kitchen, gardens, and crafts. Photo credit: www.publicdomainpictures.net (1), Logan Caola (2), flickr.com (3), wikimedia.com (4)

< Back October - “Fall”ing for Compost Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Supplies Needed : Large Plastic Water/Pop Bottle or Comparable Container Utility Knife, Push Pin/Tack or Small Nail Small Dish or Tray to set Bottle into Greens (ex. vegetable and/or fruit food scraps, non-fertilized grass clippings) Browns (ex. sticks, leaves, sawdust, pine needles, clean cardboard) Spray Bottle with Water Long dowel, long handled Spoon or Narrow Trowel Sunny spot - on shelf, counter, windowsill Patience Composting is a natural way of helping the environment using our home and garden waste to create compost that can be used in our gardens and plantings. By placing waste items together (greens & browns) and allowing them to break down or decompose we help to cut down on the food and yard waste scraps we throw away on a day-to-day basis. Composting also provides wonderful benefits as a gardener as a way of natural recycling…turning items we typically would throw away and turning them into usable soil for our future plants. Starting small and educating our “Little Sprouts” about the importance of the how-to’s of composting and letting them create their own compost container benefits us all. If using a large plastic water/pop container, please have an adult cut the top of the bottle off just as it begins to round downward. Next, if age appropriate, allow your “Little Sprout” to use the pin/tack to push through the bottom of the bottle/container to make a few small holes. If the plastic is too thick or the child is too small, please have the adult place holes in the bottom of the container. A small dish or tray will catch any moisture that escapes from the bottom. What about the browns and greens? Composting is like cooking with a recipe. Just like when baking cookies, various ingredients are needed and the same is true with creating a successful compost. To create a successful compost both greens and browns are needed in addition to water and the natural process of decomposition. “Greens” are simply the moist ingredient that provides nitrogen and moisture that helps things grow. Greens include fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, coffee and tea grounds and eggshells. Yes - “Greens” don’t necessarily need to be green. “Browns” are the items we add to the compost that provide air pockets in the pile, increase bulk and are full of carbon. The brown items include dry leaves, cardboard and plain paper (no shiny paper, tape or printing on cardboard), non-died wood chips, twigs, sticks, sawdust and pine needles. Again, all materials don’t necessarily need to be brown, but for the most part browns are brown. What not to use in my home compost: dairy, fish, meat and fats should be avoided. Next is the real fun…layering the browns and greens (In a larger compost bin the ratio of browns to greens is 2-1, but in our small compost bin just try your best.). The container used does not have to be filled to the top in that composting is about adding layers as you go and as you produce green and brown compostable items. In the container place brown materials first. Spray the layer lightly with water and then proceed with a green layer followed by another brown layer. Spray a light mist and place another green layer followed by brown. Repeat until you have filled your compost bin to the top or have decided to stop. Don’t forget to mist the brown layer each time. Once you have reached the level of compost in the container, place it in a sunny location. As the elements added decompose with the help of good bacteria and fungi, you will begin to see the actual breakdown of the elements involved. But your “Little Sprouts” job is not done. The compost needs to be turned so take a small dowel, trowel or spoon and turn the compost. Turning the compost can take place every 2-3 days. The slow process of decomposing takes time so be patient. It can take months for the greens and browns to turn into the perfect compost, but it is worth the wait. When the product being created is a dark color, falls apart and smells like soil, then your compost is ready. Remember, greens and browns can continually be added to the container so keep it up. Overtime, wonderful compost will be created and can be used in your garden or around your flowers. Happy Fall Composting! Photo credit: pexels.com (1,2,3)

< Back County Hosts Seed Collection for Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers Sam Talbot From backyards to boulevards, native plants are popping up throughout Dakota County. The burgeoning interest from homeowners to include prairie species in their gardens, coupled with incentive programs, such as “Lawns to Legumes” -- has created a novel demand for native seeds and how to grow them. In partnership with Dakota County Parks, Master Gardeners are uniquely poised to help bring pocket prairies to local neighborhoods. As the tallgrasses and wildflowers turned to seed in the fall, volunteers and University of Minnesota Extension staff met in the county parks to operationalize those efforts. Sam Talbot, then a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, joined two groups of Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) in late-September to collect native plant seeds from restored prairies at Lebanon Hills and Whitetail Woods Regional Parks. The first group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park’s Equestrian Trailhead and the other, at Whitetail Woods. In each location, the Master Gardeners—Jo Kapke, Pat Peschman, Roger Grabowski, Robert Hatlevig, Kathy Anderson, Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Pat Ramel, Christina Libaire, Mary Beth Kufrin, Sue Light, Margie Blare, Katie Possis, and Marie Stolte—looked out over tall grasses that swayed hypnotically in a stiff wind. Sam explained that they were looking at some of the county’s earliest restored prairies. They were planted when restoration efforts allowed for seed to be sourced throughout the Midwest. Today, the county collects and uses native seeds from its own remnant prairies (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. Since the seeds from these older restored prairies aren’t used as a source for new restorations, DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the Master Gardeners’ free seed library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow. The rest of the seeds were grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the DCMGV May Plant Sale . Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. Free seed library at Farmington Library In the fall, it’s much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. Sam arrived early and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Cup Plant seeds Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. Wild Bergamot seed heads At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he hosted another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” Photo credit: Dakota County Master Gardeners (1,2), flickr.com (3), Courtney Celley/USFMW (4)

< Back Black Spruce (Picea mariana): A Northwoods Native Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains, you don’t need to go to the Rhine country in Germany to see a cathedral of natural majesty. This month, Jim profiles the mighty and beautiful Black Spruce (pices mariana). Black Spruce is native to Minnesota and can grow to 50-100 feet under the right environmental conditions. But other varieties have been developed for landscape use. Read on to learn more about this magnificent conifer. Last spring we toured the Rhine country of Germany. The majestic twin spires of the Cathedral of Cologne couldn’t help but remind me of the North Country of Minnesota. In that cathedral of the Northwoods, the spires of Pices mariana (black spruce) soar skyward in quiet majesty. They are native to the northern Midwest and grow well throughout Central and Upper Minnesota. They require full sun and are quite sensitive to shading. Black Spruce is a slow-growing conifer and prefers moist environments. It is often found in bogs and other wetlands. a stand of Black Spruce Black Spruce vary in height depending on the environment, ranging from 15 to 50 feet in height, although some can push to 100 feet. The leaves are needle-like and seed cones are small, ½ to 1 ½ inches long, dark purple ripening to reddish brown. They are produced in dense clusters in the upper crown, opening at maturity but persisting for several years. needles and young cones The roots of black spruce are shallow and spread widely. Consequently, the tree is susceptible to wind-throw. Perhaps the most spectacular example was the 1999 July 4 th Boundary Waters Blowdown or derecho. Aerial view of the 1999 Blowdown A number of cultivars have been developed for landscape use. The cultivar P. mariana ‘Nana’ is a dwarf form that has gained in popularity. If you are looking for one of these stately trees, they are hard to find in nurseries but can readily be grown from seed. They do transplant well. So, with a bit of patience, you can inexpensively generate a handsome stand of black spruce. Photo Credits: Daniel Case, Wikipedia (1,2), Quetico Superior Wilderness News (3)

< Back Making Something Lovely After the Blooms Have Faded Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s October in Minnesota and most of your plants are no longer blooming. It’s always a bit sad to see your colorful garden fade for the season. But many of these flowers leave behind lovely seed pods or lovely flowers heads. This article shows you how you can take dried plants from your garden and turn them into a beautiful wreath to enjoy inside. It’s October and most of your flowers are probably no longer blooming. Last year at this time I took a walk around my yard and noticed how many lovely seed pods, dried flower heads, and grass stalks were still waving in the fall breeze. Usually, I fill baskets with them or vases (no water) and set them all over the house for natural, soft color pallet decorations. This year I decided to try my hand at making a wreathe. It wasn’t difficult, just took some time. Boy did it make a mess, but that’s what vacuum cleaners are for, right? Since I had so many dried flowers and grasses, I bought a very large grapevine wreathe to use for my base. I thought I would have to hot melt glue the stems to it, or wire them, or sew them, like I did with the cayenne pepper wreath that was featured a few years ago in the Garden Buzz. This time I kept the stems long when I cut everything out of the gardens, and it worked just fine to gently weave them through the grapevine. Take some time to plan your layout, coming up with a pleasing design based on what you have. For the wreathe pictured here, I used Globe Hydrangea, Garlic Chive, Pampas Grass, Pearly Everlasting and a few ornamental thistle heads. It’s a good idea to spray the entire thing with cheap aerosol hairspray when you are done before you hang it up. Spray it outside. This will help hold the blooms and grasses as they continue to dry out over the years. Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)

< Back Make a Cayenne Pepper Wreath for the Holidays Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s a great idea to grow vegetables in your garden to eat and share. But some vegetables lend themselves to other creative uses. Read this article to learn how to make a beautiful and useful holiday wreath with cayenne peppers. The Dakota County Master Gardeners participate in the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners’ annual vegetable seed trials. Master Gardeners receive selected vegetable seeds, plant them, grow them and record data about the growing experience. I participated in the project for the first time this year. It was a great learning experience. One of the seed types I chose to grow was cayenne peppers. I started them indoors in March and was blessed with about 60 plants that germinated and grew to transplanting size. I transplanted them outside in late May. In early September the peppers were at their peak of production. I harvested and taste tested all of the varieties and recorded my data for the seed trial project. But at the end of the season, I had a LOT of peppers. What was I to do with all of them? Well, I fermented 2 gallons of hot sauce and bottled it in cute little bottles and gave it away as Christmas gifts to all of my friends, family and co-workers. But I still had a lot of peppers left. Being the frugal person that I am, I can’t bear to waste anything, so I decided to make a wreath for the holidays. I spent 3 long evenings sewing peppers onto a straw wreath with florist’s wire. I pushed each piece of wire through the base of the stem of the pepper and then wrapped it around the straw wreathe to anchor it. Pepper after pepper, row after row. A pattern started to develop. I made a green ring by facing the stems toward each other. I tried to fill all the gaps. Some of the peppers were quite long and heavy. The wreathe as a whole ended up being quite heavy. I hung it in my kitchen on a secure hook, for about a month. The peppers began to dry and shrivel up. This changed the look of the wreath. When I needed a pepper for cooking, I could just snip one off. After about 3 months the peppers became so dry that the stems wouldn’t hold the florists wire any longer and they began to fall off. This isn’t a permanent wreath, but it was a fun accent for a few months. If you try this, make sure you wear gloves and don’t touch your face when handling the peppers. You can also make garlands or hanging ropes using onions and garlic. I did that years ago; again, they last for a while, but as they start to dry out, they fall apart. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back Fritillarias Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener October is a great month to plant bulbs for your spring garden. Tulips, crocuses and daffodils are well-known lovely spring bulb plants. But why not try something new and different? Read this article to learn about the Fritillaria, a unique spring blooming plant that grows well in Minnesota. Change it up with this spectacular spring plant. If you like to grow unusual flowers, consider Fritillaria (Genus Fritallaria ). They are unique spring blooming flowers that are part of the lily (Lilaeae) family. According to the Chicago Botanical Garden, “In a world awash with crocuses, daffodils, and early tulips, we can easily forget there are other bulbs in the world. But you'll always remember the first time you encounter a crown imperial Fritillaria imperialis. On a stalk up to 3 feet tall, a flashy cluster of orange bells is surmounted by an odd-looking topknot of green leaves. As if Dr. Seuss had drawn it, the fritillary may be quirky, but it is certainly spectacular.” Fritllaria imperialis You may be wondering why we’d be writing about a spring blooming flower in the fall. Fritillaria, like tulips, crocus, and hyacinth are bulbs that need to be planted the fall. Some varieties are native to European grassy flood plains and meadows. Fritillaria grow from southern England to Russia. Other varieties of Fritillaria are native to Western Asia and part of the Middle East. While they may not be as well-known as tulips and daffodils, they have been cultivated for centuries. Mainly grown in ornamental garden settings, records show fritillaria were grown in Elizabethan gardens as early as 1572. There are over 140 types of fritillaria (Kiana, 2017), however, not all varieties can be grown in Minnesota. “Crown of Thorns” (Fritillaria imperialis) and “guinea hen” (Fritillaria meleagris) are two varieties that grow well in Zones 4-8, so they will do well in our current Zone 5 climate. The Crown of Thorns fritillaria are tall (up to 3 feet) and have blooms in a ring that are bell-shaped and hang down. The blooms can be yellow, red, or orange. Crown of Thorns is very fragrant. Fritillaria do require full sun and excellent drainage. The ‘guinea fowl’ (Fritillaria meleagris means spotted like a guinea fowl) appears in mid-spring. It is also called checkered lily or snake’s head. The foliage twists, resembling little snakes, and may lay on the ground or be upright, standing 6-12 inches. One or two flowers emerge on an arching stem, hanging down similar to a bell. This variety has a checkered like appearance and colors include maroons, purples, and pinks. The colors are more muted than other varieties. This Fritillaria has no odor, has some shade tolerance, and prefers moist, well-drained soil. Fritillaria meleagris Fritillaria’s bulbs are called non-tunicate and have fleshy outer scales. They lack the protective papery outer skin that tulips and onions have, which helps them maintain moisture. That means fritillaria bulbs can dry out quickly. The bulbs have a hollow area on the top of the bulb, which allows water to pool and puts them at risk of rotting. To avoid that, Fritillaria bulbs should be planted on their side with their roots toward the earth. This differs from the usual bulb planting practice of making sure the pointed side is facing up. Plant Fritillaria bulbs to a depth that is about three times the height of the bulb. Bigger bulbs should be planted deeper than smaller bulbs. Add organic material such as compost, well-rotted manure, or mulch to the bottom of the hole. In addition to the bulbs being prone to rotting, Fritillaria can suffer from Leaf spot, rust, and mosaic virus. Guinea hen (Fritallaria meleagris) bulbs (non-tunicated) Plant on side A bonus feature of Fritillaria meleagris (guinea hen) bulbs is they can be forced without having to be chilled. Plant the bulbs in a pot and keep them at 50-60 degrees for several weeks. Plant something different in your garden this year and look forward to a beautiful display in the spring! References https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/guinea-hen-flower-fritillaria-meleagris/ https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/plant-spring-blooming-bulbs-fall-years-low-maintenance-color https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/fritillaria-imperialis/ https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=q720 https://www.chicagobotanic.org/plantinfo/smartgardener/fritillaria Mahmoud Kiani, Shirin Mohammadi, Alireza Babaei, Fatemeh Sefidkon, Mohamad Reza Naghavi, Mojtaba Ranjbar, Seyed Ali Razavi, Keramatollah Saeidi, Hadi Jafari, Davoud Asgari, Daniel Potter, Iran supports a great share of biodiversity and floristic endemism for Fritillaria spp. (Liliaceae): A review, Plant Diversity, Volume 39, Issue 5, 2017, Pages 245-262, ISSN 2468-2659, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pld.2017.09.002 . ( https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2468265917300513 ) Photo Credits: Publicdomainpictures.net (1), University of Wisconsin Extension (2-3)