< Back Fall Scavenger Hunt by Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Come join the adventure of a fall scavenger hunt as a Junior Fall Garden Detective! Teach the child in your life how to detect the arrival of autumn in Minnesota. Read along here for a guide to gathering clues and using some scientific observations in an outdoor search to confirm fall’s arrival. It is time for all Junior Fall Garden Detectives to investigate how we know that fall has returned to our yards and gardens. Let’s find the clues, scientific observations, and evidence your child can collect about fall. Then, participate in a scavenger hunt revealing autumn’s cool air, shorter daylight, and changes in gardens, creatures, and our lives. CLUES As the seasons change from summer to fall, the air temperatures drop and the days get shorter. Look for these clues to determine when the seasons change: ● Air temperatures . The Minnesota average temperatures on September 1 are 77 degrees daytime, 59 degrees nighttime. By November 1, the temperatures have decreased to an average of 50 degrees daytime, 35 degrees nighttime. ● Daylight . From the start of school in early September through the end of September, you may have noticed less daylight each day as you hop on your school bus in the morning until you are playing at the park at the end of the day. Daylight on average decreases by one hour and 15 minutes from August 1 through October 15. The equinox is when the days and nights are said to be equal in length for the entire globe. For the Northern Hemisphere, (the northern half of the world), where Minnesota is located, the fall equinox will be on September 22, 2024, at approximately 7:43 am, kicking off the start of the season. EVIDENCE Some scientific observations, or evidence, of the seasonal changes may include: ● Trees . Trees and bushes are dropping an array of leaves with bright reds, yellows, oranges, and browns. Burning bush (or Euonymus alatus), along with oaks and maple trees create intense red leaves. River birch and yellow poplar trees have showy yellow displays in the fall. ● Plants. Flowers and plants around the yard have lost their blooms and dropped their leaves as their energy returns to their roots below the ground. The final fruits of many plants are ready for harvest, like apples and pumpkins. ● Creatures. The arrival of fall invites the creatures in your yard, or local park, to either migrate to the warmer south or prepare to hunker down for the Minnesota winters by making nests or dens. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks, and the loon, form flocks and fly south. Look up to the autumn sky as the migrating birds fly in a triangular formation to head to warmer locations. Butterflies, like the monarch, partake in a long journey to winter in warm Mexico. You may notice that the butterflies are no longer to be found in the garden. Other animals, insects, and birds remain in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or under the brush of the colorful fallen leaves and nearby evergreens. Look closely, squirrels are collecting seeds and acorns to save up for their winter meals. SOLVE Now, it’s time for a fun expedition outside in your yard, neighborhood, or local park to search for these clues and evidence of fall and its impact on our daily lives. See the attached printable Junior Fall Detective Scavenger Hunt here for an activity for your child. Read: The Very Hungry Catepillar’s First Fall by Eric Carle, to help the younger child understand the concepts of fall. Buy: https://www.amazon.com/Hungry-Caterpillars-First-World-Carle/dp/0593384768/ref=sr_1_9?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.A2F_T8wwaRnCdivgPFsO5IGQdF9pZTxxKDdCxuOob5ZqKJsb9GrsLZpjRJcRKDZYUNGuHZCHYHX_e8MHQvAJkzW395e8Fx-vGN33AGJElFC0Z90rjHwbxCeAW2LiN9yJ7_WKZFEFEdHzs73L8bOLnimVG-Kyp0ToP86gekzJ3TbV6lm2nXsLTSc9RXsDg8869p7rgyugXEC8AbMsmNIqPx8NLF3aH0GyyaNHQu0G2CV6pzrwh-kBl_hlGAwVcSoWjQ5joGUsi5uXMPuh0mioWjIbNHYFa-O5W8JldhCx2Lo.Yk6T3qxBgI-pxXL1PXwWEEU0LP9Vk1wi_gt3CVSyKPY&dib_tag=se&keywords=Fall+Children%27s+Books&qid=1721076061&sr=8-9 Or go to the Dakota County library and check out the book: ISBN: 9780593384763 Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Azaleas - a beautiful addition to the garden Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Azalea shrubs are a beautiful addition to the garden. The University of Minnesota developed a winter hardy azalea – ‘Northern Lights’ - which is now available in many different colors. In this article, you will learn how to care for azaleas, some of the lore about them, and why you will want them in your yard. Azaleas make a wonderful splash of color in mid-spring! Azaleas are flowering shrubs in the Rhododendron family. All azaleas are rhododendrons but not all rhododendrons are azaleas. The key differences are bloom time, growth habit and appearance. The most popular azalea for Minnesota is the ‘Northern Lights’ azalea. It was developed at the University of Minnesota by Albert Johnson and was the first azalea to flower prolifically after minus 40° winters. Its introduction led to the development of many other colors after Albert Johnson’s death. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas https://www.azaleas.org/wp-content/uploads/azalean/31/2/articles/Northern_Lights_Azaleas.pdf Azaleas need at least 4 hours of dappled sunlight, but in northern climates they can sometimes take almost full sun. It is extremely important that they have a soil pH of <5.5 that drains well. Fertilize in late winter or early spring. Azaleas bloom on last year’s growth so, the best time to prune is just after flowering. Azaleas need a sheltered area protected from icy winter winds, not a hot area next to the house. Don’t cultivate around azaleas because it will damage their shallow fibrous roots. The Woodland-Azalea Garden at the UMN Landscape Arboretum features many of the Northern Lights series of azaleas. All over the MN Landscape Arboretum in general, you can see Albert Johnson’s original pink-flowered ‘Northern Lights’. The series is known the world-over for varied colors and flower-bud hardiness - an achievement that took two decades. Historically, azaleas have been associated with various emotions and symbols. Generally, they are said to represent good qualities, such as: Temperance – the Victorians often carried a bloom if they supported the prohibition of alcohol. Emotional evenness. Passion that is still developing and fragile. Despite being overwhelmingly associated with positive qualities, Azaleas have a dark side as they are also associated with death threats-but only when sent in a black vase! This link may have occurred because in sufficient quantity, all parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. https://www.flowermeaning.com/azalea-flower-meaning/ Azaleas are susceptible to some pests including: aphids, scale, thrips and Azalea sawflies. Azalea woes? Try University of Minnesota Extension’s publication: ‘What’s wrong with my plant?’ Check out this University of Minnesota Extension site for more information on, and to identify, Sawfly larvae. Pest Control: ‘Pick and Plunk’- picking sawfly larvae and plunking them into a bucket of soapy water. Squishing the insects - not for the squeamish. A strong jet of water. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Azadirachtin and spinosad are effective for 1-2 weeks. Sawflies that feed on treated foliage are affected. These products have little impact on other insects. Residual pesticides include permethrin, bifenthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, and carbaryl and are most effective against young larvae. One application is usually sufficient. Follow the label instructions exactly and the timing must minimize contact with pollinators. Note: Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Btk) is specific to caterpillars and does NOT kill sawfly larvae. These are some other hardy azaleas: Roseshell Azalea, zones 3-8, 4’-8’ x 4’-8’ one of the parents of the Northern Lights series Compact Korean Azalea, zones 4-8, 2-4’ x 2-4’ Lavender pink Pinxterbloom Azalea , native to the eastern United States and hardy to zone 4. This is the perfect time to plan to add azaleas to your landscape! P.S. Don’t forget a soil test in the spring to help determine how to amend your soil! https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ Photo Credits: Photo 1: Pixabay.com (public domain) Photos 2-7: Marjory Blare

< Back Autumn Abundance: Fall Porch Pots Julie Deane, Dakota County Master Gardener As your summer plants dwindle and spindle, fall is the perfect time to refresh your front porch with a fun fall planter. The best part? You can create a beautiful autumn display by salvaging some of your existing plants and adding a few fall-friendly plants. In this article, learn how to use your existing plants and new fall plants to add some cheer and beauty to your garden. Gather Your Supplies Start with what you have and add a few fall finds: Summer survivors: Assess summer containers for vines and grasses and any blooming plants that fit your fall color scheme and can be reused. Often lantana and black-eyed Susan will continue blooming into fall and can be repurposed in your fall planters. Containers: Empty tired summer planters and repot with a fall theme. Or repurpose buckets, tin pails, old bushel baskets, wooden crates, or any type of basket. Lined with plastic or drill holes for drainage, these make charming, rustic planters. Farmstand finds: Support local farmers and add some corn shocks, gourds and pumpkins. Skewer small pumpkins and gourds on sticks or dowels for added texture. Craft materials: Twine, ribbons, or burlap scraps can dress up your containers and tie everything together. Pick Fall-Friendly Plants Choose plants that love cooler weather and bring out beautiful autumn hues, such as: Chrysanthemums (Mums): Vibrant flowers that bloom in yellow, orange, red, or purple. Ornamental Kale, Peppers and Cabbage: Add texture and deep green, purple, or white accents. Pansies and Violas: Hardy, cheerful flowers that thrive in fall’s mild temps. Asters: These daisy-like flowers come in lovely shades of blue, purple, and pink. Grasses: Varieties like fountain grass or millet provide height and movement, and some are deep purple in color. Trailing vines: Ivy or Creeping Jenny cascade beautifully over planter edges.If you have leftover herbs (like sage or thyme) from summer, tuck them in for texture and fragrance. Assembly Steps Prepare Your Base: Ensure your selected container has drainage holes or line it appropriately. Fill with potting mix. Gather your Treasures: Carefully extract any summer plants that will be reused, protecting the root base as you transplant to the fall container. Gather any other items to add to the planter as well. Arrange Your Plants: Place taller plants, like grasses or kale, in the back or center. Fill around with mums, asters, and pansies for color. Let vines or trailing plants spill over the edges. Tuck in decorative items—mini pumpkins, pinecones, sticks, or even faux leaves. Add Finishing Touches: Secure burlap or ribbon around the rim. Nestle in some twigs, berry branches, hydrangea blossoms, or a small decorative sign for added charm. Tips for Success Cluster multiple planters: Vary heights and shapes for an eye-catching display. Check your summer pots to see if you can re-use some yellow, orange or purple bloomers or some of your vines. Use straw bales to vary the height and add dimension to your space. Water regularly: Fall can be dry, so check soil moisture often. Remember to water at the soil and not on the foliage or blooms for best results. Use what’s plentiful: Gather colorful leaves, branches, or seed pods locally for a natural look. Tuck in hydrangea blooms for a fuller look. Enjoy Your Fall Planters With a little creativity and items already on hand, you can build a front porch planter that celebrates the season in style. Add some straw bales or corn shocks for even more fall flare. Each time you walk up to your front door, you’ll be greeted by a burst of fall colors and textures—proof that a little resourcefulness (and a lot of autumn spirit) can go a long way. Photo Credit: https://momcrieff.com/fall-planter/ (1), www.merrifieldgardencenter.com (2), www.pinterest.co.uk (3), www.gardengatemagazine.com (4)

< Back Beware of Periwinkle Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Periwinkle is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant that was once touted as a great ground cover. It grows very well in most conditions and have pretty green leaves and purple flowers. But now Periwinkle is on some invasive species lists. If you have Periwinkle in your yard, you probably know why. Read this article to understand the problems Periwinkle can pose in your yard and how you can manage them. Periwinkle, also known as Vinca Minor, Creeping Myrtle, Running Myrtle, and Lesser Periwinkle, is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant that was once touted as a great ground cover. But now Periwinkle is listed on the Farm Services Agency USDA Invasive plant list and the invasive species-extension.org list. I was one of those individuals who bought a 3-inch pot of periwinkle and planted it in my wooded backyard. And yes, it grew very well and looked beautiful with green vegetation and purple flowers. It contained the weeds, therefore, maintenance free. What more could I ask for? And then . . . I noticed it crowded out my lilies of the valley, hostas, and ferns. I have since battled the plant trying to contain it within a small area. This article will introduce you to Periwinkle and discuss how to manage it. Common periwinkle was first introduced to the U.S. from Europe in the 1700s as an ornamental. The green stems are slender but woody in appearance. The green leaves are glossy and about an inch long. Some of the varieties of periwinkle have variegated leaf color. The flowers are generally purple to blue. The flowers resemble a phlox flower with 5 lobes and it blooms in May and June. It grows in sun, part-shade, and shady areas from dry to most soil. In other words, it adapts well to many surroundings especially shady areas. It is low growing at approximately 4-8 inches in height but its vine can be as long as 6.6 feet But Periwinkle can take over wooded areas, forests, bluffs, and old homesites due to its dense matting. Because of this, Periwinkle is listed as invasive in other parts of the U.S., including Wisconsin - but not yet Minnesota. As a homeowner what can you do about the Periwinkle problem? There are several action steps you can take: Don’t buy/acquire it If you have it on your property, try and contain or eradicate it. Educate others. Now that you know it is an invasive plant elsewhere, you can tell others about it. How do you get rid of it? There are several manual ways to get rid of periwinkle: Hand pull it - but be sure to wear gloves! You will need to pull it fairly close to the ground to make sure the vines/roots don’t break off, Rake it. Raking the dense mats in large areas will get some of the vines and roots up. Dig it up. Use a shovel or pitchfork and remove excess soil from the roots. Be careful to get all the roots. Mow it or string trim it. You can mow it and then dig it up. Mowing can help contain it. Avoid rotary tillers because any root left in the soil will just grow back. Smother it with cardboard and mulch. Cut, pull up, or rake up as much of the vinca first. Then add a layer of cardboard and 3 inches of mulch on top of the cardboard to smother the plant. You may have to apply multiple times to fully eliminate. If you must use an herbicide, be aware that the plant leaves are waxy, and therefore, herbicides may not work as effectively or may need a second application. Trimming with a string trimmer, and then applying the herbicide may work better to reach the stems of the plant. Periwinkle can appear to be an attractive option if you are looking for a ground cover for tough areas. But, as this article shows, you may want to avoid this plant unless you are up for managing its massive spreading habit. Sources: https://invasive-species.extension.org/vinca-minor-common-periwinkle/ https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/periwinkle https://www.fsa.usda.gov/sites/default/files/documents/appendixe.pdf https://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=461054 Photo credits: www.uniprot.org (all creative commons) 1, www.forestryimages.org (all creative commons) 2

< Back How to Deal with Pantry Pests Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener If you have ever opened a bag of flour and found little black speck in it, you have experienced a common household problem – pantry pests. Any kind of dried food, especially flour, meal (example, cornmeal), and cereal, can become a home for pantry pests, which will contaminate all the food they touch. Read this article to learn about what these pests might be, how to prevent them and what to do if you find them in your flour! If you have ever opened a bag of flour and found little black speck in it, you have experienced a common household problem – pantry pests. Any kind of dried food, especially flour, meals (example, cornmeal), and cereal, can become a home for pantry pests, which will contaminate all the food they touch. Pantry pests are not picky. Although their preferred foods are grains, like flour, cereal and other processed food, nearly any food stored a room temperature can be a target. Dried fruits, beans, nuts and spices are favorites. Any open package is also a target, but these pests can get into unopened packages as well. The most common culprits are: moths and multiple types of beetles, cigarette, drugstore and saw-toothed beetles – and weevils. Confused Flour Beetle, found in flour, cereals, meal Rest assured, you did nothing to cause this problem! These pests come from granaries, warehouses and food processing plants. They travel from the grocery store to your home and are so tine – many are 1/8” in length or less – they can be difficult, if not impossible, to spot until they multiply, infesting your food. Merchant Grain Beetle, found in Cereals, pasta, flour, meal, nuts, cracked seeds, seed dust How to prevent infestations Prevention is the best cure. Check incoming groceries, including pet and bird food. Better yet, check packages in the grocery store before you buy! Look for packages that are not well sealed or have tiny holes. Avoid packages that have dents or scratches. Check the expiration date – the longer a product has been sitting around in the same place, the more likely it is to be infested. Also, the longer a product sits in your pantry the more likely it is to become infested. The answer is to buy small packages that you can use up in two to four months. Consider transferring target foods to glass, plastic or metal containers with airtight seals. They keep pests out much better than cardboard or foil. Or store products, like flour and other meals, in your refrigerator. How to you know if you have an infestation If you find a pest in an area where you don’t store food – especially in the summer when insects flourish – you probably don’t need to worry. But if they are on your counter or the floor near your pantry, it could be an early sign of pest infestation. What to do about it If you find a pest, throw away the box or package it is in. Check the products that were stored near it. If you can’t see the bottom of a package or box, pour the food onto a baking sheet and check it with a flashlight. Granary Weevil, found in Whole grains, rice, corn, millet, rye, beans, bird seed, and caked meal If you don’t find anything, the pest was likely an isolated incident. However, if you do find an infestation or even just a pest or two, do the following: Empty out your pantry Vacuum the shelves Wash down the shelves with soapy water Check each package and box before returning it to the shelf Don’t do the following: Apply bleach ammonia or pesticides – they don’t work and are dangerous if they contact food Spray the area with insecticides If you have concerns or want to be extra cautious, freeze the package or box for three to four days. Alternatively, you can heat the product in an oven at 140 degrees fahrenheit for two or three yours. Either method will kill any eggs or larvae. If you have survived an infestation – or want to be sure you never have one- clean your pantry shelves every three to six months, which has the extra benefit of helping you stay organized! References : https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/pantry-pests-insects-found-stored-food https://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/packages/kitchen-fixes/everything-about-pantry-pests https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/common-pantry-pests-and-their-management https://extension.psu.edu/cereal-and-pantry-pests Picture Credits: Gary Alpert, Penn State Extension (1,2), University of Nebraska, Department of Entomology (3)

< Back October - “Fall”ing for Compost Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Supplies Needed : Large Plastic Water/Pop Bottle or Comparable Container Utility Knife, Push Pin/Tack or Small Nail Small Dish or Tray to set Bottle into Greens (ex. vegetable and/or fruit food scraps, non-fertilized grass clippings) Browns (ex. sticks, leaves, sawdust, pine needles, clean cardboard) Spray Bottle with Water Long dowel, long handled Spoon or Narrow Trowel Sunny spot - on shelf, counter, windowsill Patience Composting is a natural way of helping the environment using our home and garden waste to create compost that can be used in our gardens and plantings. By placing waste items together (greens & browns) and allowing them to break down or decompose we help to cut down on the food and yard waste scraps we throw away on a day-to-day basis. Composting also provides wonderful benefits as a gardener as a way of natural recycling…turning items we typically would throw away and turning them into usable soil for our future plants. Starting small and educating our “Little Sprouts” about the importance of the how-to’s of composting and letting them create their own compost container benefits us all. If using a large plastic water/pop container, please have an adult cut the top of the bottle off just as it begins to round downward. Next, if age appropriate, allow your “Little Sprout” to use the pin/tack to push through the bottom of the bottle/container to make a few small holes. If the plastic is too thick or the child is too small, please have the adult place holes in the bottom of the container. A small dish or tray will catch any moisture that escapes from the bottom. What about the browns and greens? Composting is like cooking with a recipe. Just like when baking cookies, various ingredients are needed and the same is true with creating a successful compost. To create a successful compost both greens and browns are needed in addition to water and the natural process of decomposition. “Greens” are simply the moist ingredient that provides nitrogen and moisture that helps things grow. Greens include fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, coffee and tea grounds and eggshells. Yes - “Greens” don’t necessarily need to be green. “Browns” are the items we add to the compost that provide air pockets in the pile, increase bulk and are full of carbon. The brown items include dry leaves, cardboard and plain paper (no shiny paper, tape or printing on cardboard), non-died wood chips, twigs, sticks, sawdust and pine needles. Again, all materials don’t necessarily need to be brown, but for the most part browns are brown. What not to use in my home compost: dairy, fish, meat and fats should be avoided. Next is the real fun…layering the browns and greens (In a larger compost bin the ratio of browns to greens is 2-1, but in our small compost bin just try your best.). The container used does not have to be filled to the top in that composting is about adding layers as you go and as you produce green and brown compostable items. In the container place brown materials first. Spray the layer lightly with water and then proceed with a green layer followed by another brown layer. Spray a light mist and place another green layer followed by brown. Repeat until you have filled your compost bin to the top or have decided to stop. Don’t forget to mist the brown layer each time. Once you have reached the level of compost in the container, place it in a sunny location. As the elements added decompose with the help of good bacteria and fungi, you will begin to see the actual breakdown of the elements involved. But your “Little Sprouts” job is not done. The compost needs to be turned so take a small dowel, trowel or spoon and turn the compost. Turning the compost can take place every 2-3 days. The slow process of decomposing takes time so be patient. It can take months for the greens and browns to turn into the perfect compost, but it is worth the wait. When the product being created is a dark color, falls apart and smells like soil, then your compost is ready. Remember, greens and browns can continually be added to the container so keep it up. Overtime, wonderful compost will be created and can be used in your garden or around your flowers. Happy Fall Composting! Photo credit: pexels.com (1,2,3)

< Back What to Do with All Those Leaves? Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . . and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . .and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Managing Leaves in Your Yard In a forest, tree leaves and other organics form a natural carpet over the soil surface. This conserves moisture, controls temperatures and prevents the soil from eroding. Over time bacteria, fungi and other natural organisms decompose or compost the leaves to supply plants with a natural, slow-release form of nutrients. Consider capturing these same benefits for your own landscapes. Leaves contain up to 80 percent of the nutrients a tree captures from the soil and air during its growing season! Rather than bagging leaves and placing them at the curb to be hauled to landfills or compost sites, you can: Mow Them A light covering of leaves can be mowed; simply leave the shredded leaves in place on the lawn. This technique is most effective when a mulching mower is used. In fact, when leaf drop is light—or you have only a few small trees in your yard--this technique is the most efficient way to manage leaf accumulation. Use Them For Mulch Leaves can be used as a mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds and around shrubs and trees. As an option to raking, a lawn mower with a bagging attachment provides a fast and easy way to shred and collect the leaves. Leaves that have been mowed or run through some other type of shredder will decompose faster and are much more likely to remain in place than unshredded leaves. Apply a 3 to 6 inch layer of shredded leaves around the base of trees and shrubs. In annual and perennial flower beds, a 2 to 3 inch mulch of shredded leaves is ideal. Mulches are especially beneficial when used around newly established landscape plants, greatly increasing the likelihood of their survival. You can even begin to establish a no-till vegetable garden in late fall by heaping 8 to 10 inches of leaves on a defined bed area in a sunny spot in your yard. A heavy layer not only keeps weeds from growing, it also keeps the underlying soil moist, greatly reducing the amount of watering you need in the summer. Improve Your Soil Work leaves directly into your garden and flower bed soils now so they decompose by spring. A 6 to 8 inch layer of leaves tilled into heavy, clay soil will improve aeration and drainage. Tilling into a light, sandy soil, will improve capacity to hold water and nutrients. But remember, almost all trees and shrubs are susceptible to one or more leaf spot diseases. Fallen leaves that are diseased can harbor plant pathogens over the winter and reinfect the following growing season. These leaves should be raked up and destroyed before the first snowfall. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: Should I Mulch or Bag My Leaves? - Should I mulch? Or bag my leaves this fall? (umn.edu) Freeze Dried Leaves on Trees - Freeze-dried leaves on trees caused by early cold temperatures | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Bird Feeding Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. PLACEMENT OF BIRD FEEDERS Always place your bird feeders where you can frequently see the birds feeding but no closer than 3 feet from your windows. If you want to attract a larger number of birds, use Nyjer and black oiled sunflowers in a tube feeder, hulled sunflowers and whole peanuts in hopper and platform feeders (beware though that squirrels will love and go after the peanuts). You can also use alternative foods such as suet, fruits, mealworms, and nectar (great for hummingbirds). Adding habitat, food, water, and nest boxes will attract birds year-round. Feeders near larger trees and shrubs attract more visits to your feeders. Keep feeders free of debris and fill only with seeds birds will eat. Overcrowding at feeders can increase a bird’s stress level making them susceptible to disease. Choose feeders that maximize contact between birds and provide them with additional places to feed. Keep your feeding area clean of seed hulls and bird droppings by sweeping or vacuuming the ground below the feeders. You can also use no-waste seeds or seed mixes containing hulled seeds. Avoid feeders with sharp edges or points which can puncture the skin and cause bleeding or scratches that facilitate transmission of disease. CLEANING BIRD FEEDERS The best practice is to regularly clean your feeders approximately once a month with one part bleach to nine parts of water. Completely immerse feeders for at least 3 minutes and allow them to dry. Scrub bird baths and change the water several times a week to prevent mosquito reproduction and the spread of West Nile Virus. STORING BIRD SEED Store your bird food properly to ensure the seed is fresh. Store bird seed in areas that are cool and have low humidity. I keep my seeds in Menards sealed storage containers and store them in our indoor porch pantry which is cool year-round. HPAI (AVIAN BIRD FLU) This summer was a scary one for all bird watchers when we were advised to stop feeding the birds due to the Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (bird flu). The AVIAN flu is typically found in aquatic birds (swans, geese, ducks, etc.) who often don’t get sick but are sources for infection for domestic poultry (chickens and turkeys). The Raptor Center has been tracking the outbreak of AVIAN influenza in various bird species. Numbers were high for infection between March 28th through May 15th of this year. Although the number of cases has been on the decline, the risk from bird feeders is now low enough that we can use our feeders again. HPAI rarely infects humans, but depending on the virus strain it can have a severe impact on susceptible birds of many species. It’s easily transmitted in the feces and respiratory secretions of infected birds, especially during the migration season. The virus can also survive cold and freezing temperatures and will survive in aquatic environments. Henceforth, this is even more important for sanitation in our bird feeders. For more information on HPAI, refer to the Raptor Center at the University of Minnesota. University of Minnesota, Raptor Center National Bird-Feeding Society DNR Bird Feeding Guide All photos courtesy of Duncraft.com except as noted Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), jdorganizer.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Growing Sweet Potatoes in Minnesota Growing potatoes in Minnesota is easy, and you can grow many varieties, sizes, and colors. Sweet potatoes are a whole other story. They aren’t even in the same family as potatoes, who belong to the nightshade family. Sweet potatoes typically need a long, hot growing season – which can be a challenge in Minnesota. Read this article to learn the secrets to growing sweet potatoes in your back yard. Michelle Scullard, Master Gardener Growing potatoes in Minnesota is easy, and you can grow many varieties, sizes, and colors. Sweet potatoes are a whole other story. They aren’t even in the same family as potatoes, who belong to the nightshade family ( Solanaceae ), similar to peppers and tomatoes. Sweet potatoes belong to the ( Convolvulaceae ) family, as do morning glory flowers. Kind of makes sense when we recall the luscious sweet potato vines we often use in containers (purple and lime colored) and how much they do look like morning glory vines. Unlike regular potatoes, sweet potatoes need a long and hot growing season. Sounds like a typical Minnesota summer, right? In many of our dreams, maybe. In Dakota County, we land firmly in USDA Growing Zone 4b , which means we have a little bit longer growing season than our fellow Minnesotans in northern Minnesota, but not as long as a sweet potato really needs. What this all means is that we have to put more work into successfully growing that yummy sweet potato. It starts with choosing the right variety of sweet potato. The two most successfully grown varieties in Minnesota are “Beauregard” and “Georgia Jet”. Beauregard is considered to have great flavor while Georgia Jet is more consistently successful here. Both produce a harvest in about 90 days instead of the usual 100-170 days most other varieties require. You plant them after the danger of frost, which is around mid-May here, according to the MN DNR’s Last Spring Frost map (but keep an eye on those nightly temperatures). Start the sweet potatoes from slips, not seeds. Sweet potatoes prefer a soil pH between 5.5 – 6.5. To provide as warm a planting site as possible, choose a location that receives at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day. It is recommended that you mound the soil or create ridges that are 8-12 inches high, or plant in a raised bed. Place black plastic over the soil to help heat the soil and maintain the warmth throughout the growing season. It is suggested that you plant in the late afternoon when the soil has warmed. Plant the slips 10-18 inches apart in rows that are three feet apart, about 4 inches deep, making sure the roots are covered completely with soil. You want to leave space for the vines to spread. There are differing opinions about whether to use fertilizer or not. Some people feel it detracts from the flavor, however, others think fertilizer is needed to produce a larger harvest. If you do choose to fertilize, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer, avoiding excessive Nitrogen. Place the fertilizer to the side of the plant (called side dressing) about six weeks after planting. Water regularly, providing the plants with about ¾ of an inch a week initially, and watering more often as the plants mature. You will want to stop watering two weeks before you harvest. Carefully dig the sweet potatoes before the first frost (usually mid-October). Try to avoid bruising or cutting them by using a potato fork or even moving the soil away with your hands. Once you harvest the sweet potatoes, you are going to have to wait between one to three weeks before eating because they need to ‘cure’. The curing process turns the starches in the sweet potato to sugars, producing the characteristic sweetness of the potato. If properly cured, you can store sweet potatoes in a dry 55° F area for several months. Then, eat and enjoy! References used in this article https://northerngardener.org/sweet-potato/ Minnesota State Horticultural Society https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/growing-sweet-potatoes-zm0z11zsto/ Mother Earth News https://www.seedsavers.org/site/pdf/SweetPotatoGrowingGuide1.pdf Seed Savers https://www.burpee.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sweet%20potatoes Burpee (not an endorsement of any seed catalog as many garden catalogs carry sweet potato slips) Photo credits: USDA. https://snaped.fns.usda.gov/seasonal-produce-guide/sweet-potatoes-yams (1), www/.scientificgardener.blogspot.com (2), University of Georgia Extension. https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1014 (3)

< Back Minnesota Arbor Day - April 28, 2023 Mary Gadek, Master Gardener “He who plants a tree, plants hope.” ~Lucy Larcom Each year, Arbor Day is celebrated around the world. Each state in the United States sets aside one day each year for its Arbor Day to think about why trees are important to the world and to celebrate them. Minnesota has chosen the last Friday in April for its Arbor Day. Click here to learn why there is an Arbor Day celebration and how to celebrate it with your family. Let’s celebrate our Minnesota trees on Arbor Day, April 28, 2023! Everywhere you go in Minnesota, you see many trees of different types, sizes and shapes. Why celebrate Arbor Day? Arbor Day highlights the power and importance of trees in the World. Trees help our climate . The bad emissions from things like some vehicles and machinery and land use changes have added too much carbon dioxide into our air. Trees can improve the air by pulling in carbon dioxide and then, in exchange, releasing oxygen back into our air. Trees benefit our communities . In addition to cleaning our air, trees filter water and slow storm flooding in our neighborhoods. The shade of a tree near a home or building can keep it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter as well as provide a beautiful area for physical activity. Also, trees have been shown to calm stress when doing activities, like resting under a tree or strolling through a forest. Trees maintain the biodiversity of the environment . “Biodiversity”, or the collection of plants, animals and other creatures in an area, fosters balance among each other that is needed to live, providing food and shelter in an environment. A tree can give shelter on its branches or under its canopy as well as provide seeds and nuts for food to the wildlife around it. How to celebrate Arbor Day? Plant a tree . Arbor Day is celebrated by planting a tree or trees to continue the benefits of trees in our world. Starting as early as February through May, many cities in Dakota County have tree sales, of smaller, bare root trees for economical prices. Perfect for a yard with little to no trees! See links below for some Dakota County tree sales. Participate in one of the many educational activities . The Arbor Day Foundation’s website has many educational resources, including activity sheets and interactive learning pages, to further your child’s knowledge about trees. https://www.arborday.org/kids/ Read about a special tree . The Giving Tree by Shel Silverstein is a picture book for all ages with the main character of a tree giving love and acceptance all of its life. The Giving Tree by Shel Silverstein . Check it out at the Dakota County library. Or purchase on Amazon : So, help you child plant a tree or take part in one of the many educational activities related to trees. Or, on any old day, just take a walk among the trees and help you child appreciate all that trees do for us. Dakota County tree sales links: (this is not an exhaustive list; more sales will become available through May; check your local city or township website if it is not listed below): https://dakotaswcd.org/2023-tree-sale-2/ https://www.lakevillemn.gov/723/Annual-Arbor-Day-Tree-and-Shrub-Sale https://cityofeagan.com/treesale https://www.burnsvillemn.gov/1008/Tree-Sale https://treetrust.org/non-profit/trees-for-sale/mendota-heights/ Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1, 2), Matt Gadek (3), book cover (4)

< Back Buttonbush (Queen of the Wetlands) Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Buttonbush is a great shrub for naturalizing in wet areas and attracts butterflies. Read more about its attributes. We have some wonderful marsh lands on our property. Among the Giant Blue Lobelias and the Cardinal flowers, there’s a delightful shrub that stands out, the Buttonbush ( Cephalanthus occidentalis ). This is a native perennial plant to much of the Eastern North America from Nova Scotia to Minnesota, south to Florida and East Texas. You’ll find it in a range of wetland habitats including swamps, floodplains, mangroves, around ponds and margins of streams and even moist forest understories. It grows as a deciduous shrub or small tree, running from three to ten feet in height. It has glossy green leaves which appear in the late spring. Its unique fragrant white to pink bloom, shown in the first picture, gives it its common name. Buttonbush usually blooms from June through September although this period may be shorter further north. It was introduced commercially in 1735 as a source of nectar for commercial honey production. Thus, it’s other common name, Honey Bells. Buttonbush forms an important link in the wetland ecology. A number of waterfowl eat the seeds and wood ducks use the plant as nest protection. We’ve had a pair in our pond for several years that seem to regularly avail themselves of our buttonbushes building material. Deer browse the foliage which surprisingly is poisonous to livestock. Darn deer eat anything! A number of native as well as honey bees feed on the nectar as do hummingbirds. The plant acts as larval host to Titan Sphinx, Walnut and Hydrangea Sphinx moths. It can be used in butterfly gardens, as a naturalizing plant or to control erosion in difficult, moist areas. It’s great for naturalizing. To grow Buttonbush, select a fairly moist environment. As you might imagine it has a pretty high water requirement even though it likes shade to part shade. It is a spreading multi-branched shrub with an irregular crown which produces balls of white flowers resembling pincushions. As it can get a bit lanky, plants in a more formal setting might need to be pruned from time to time. It is a rapid grower and spreads by suckering. It is said to be hardy from Zones 5 to 11 although a number of plants do just fine in Zone 4. For Minnesota gardeners it might be wise to consider planting in a protected area and mulching in the fall at least for the first year or two. Getting a local specimen is also important. Buttonbush is an otherwise hardy ornamental perennial. It’s a native that is an attractive addition to any moist shady area. Photo credits: Jim Evans, Wikimedia Commons (1), C. Fannon, University of Texas (2)

< Back All About Those Bee Houses Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Bee house? Pollinator palace? Bug hotel? Check out some ideas for building pollinator real estate with the child in your life and find out why we may want to invite pollinators into our yards and gardens! A quick search of the internet finds all kinds of simple or fancy kits for making bee houses. These are for solitary bees that travel alone and lay their eggs, not the bees like honeybees that live in a group hive. Here’s one child-friendly idea to try at home: Select the shelter. I found that a round tissue holder was just the right size for my 8 in tunnels, but see what you have around your house and yard. The container should be open on one side, closed on the back and have a way for rain to run off. You can decorate the house with paints or markers if you like, or leave it just as it is. Bees like all kinds of decor! Make or find your tunnels. Here, I used a combination of empty toilet paper rolls to hold everything in place, some of last year’s dried plant stems (hosta and hydrangea - they have little tunnels just right for a solitary bee to burrow inside), and some paper that I rolled around a pencil and secured with a bit of tape. Different sized tubes are nice for different bees. Secure your bee house in a location with morning sun, evening shade, and some shelter from the wind. I found a great spot where the tree branch meets the trunk of the tree and used some twine to secure the bee house. Observe your bee house from a little distance and see who moves into your new pollinator apartments. See up close how a mason bee builds and uses its nest in the diagram from the University of Minnesota - Extension below: Why would we want to invite bees to our outdoor spaces? Well, besides being pretty interesting creatures to observe, bees are part of a special group called pollinators. This group includes bees, plus butterflies, moths, wasps, flies, beetles and birds. Pollinators are important because they help plants grow fruit and seeds! When a pollinator stops by a flower on a plant to drink up some nectar (the pollinator version of a yummy and nutritious smoothie before they continue on their way), they pick up some pollen dust on their bodies. The next time they land on a flower, they drop off some of this pollen and fertilize that plant. Then comes the fruit with seeds inside. So, think about apples, strawberries, pumpkins and a whole lot of other foods and flowers. If you like any of those, the pollinators are definitely helping you! So where does the new house come in? Well, after all that hard work, pollinators need a safe and sheltered place to rest and raise their young. They don’t need fancy accommodations, but pollinators do appreciate: a place to cool down and shelter from the wind, rain and hot afternoon sun a place to lay eggs and overwinter an accessible water source a nice buffet of pollinator-friendly plants like coneflower, milkweed and bee balm nearby You may know about “social” pollinators like honeybees that live in a hive with many other bees, but did you know we can also provide a habitat for helpful “solitary” pollinators such as mason bees. About 15% of bees nest on their own and lay eggs in cavities (tunnels) like the hollow tubes of dead plants or in spaces they find in brush piles. Consider installing a bee house any time during the year and you could be helping native solitary bees find their favorite apartment! Are you interested in reading to learn more about pollinator habitats? Take a look at these books, available through Dakota County Library: Nature’s Best Hope (Young Readers Edition) by Douglas W. Tallamy “This middle grade edition of the groundbreaking bestseller will inspire kids to use their backyard to help save the plant. Tallamy encourages kids to take direct action. Some of these ideas include planting an oak tree (one of the most important tree species) at home. If that’s too large of a task, he suggests they can plant asters - a beautiful flower whose pollen bees use to feed their young.” Turn This Book Into a Beehive! And 19 Other Experiments and Activities That Explore the Amazing World of Bees by Lynn Brunelle “[This book] lets kids make a difference in the world - building a home where bees can thrive is one small but critical step in reversing the alarming trend of dwindling bee populations” - provided by publisher Interested in even more information about this topic? https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants-insects/pollinators https://beelab.umn.edu/creat-nesting-habitat Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4)