< Back The Label is the Law! Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or, at least, their looks. Your first inclination may be to turn to pesticides. But many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides and other potentially harmful chemical products. This article provides resources, tips and other valuable information that can be helpful in deciding how to handle your garden problems. This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or at least, their looks. Many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources, including this from the University of Minnesota Extension (UMN), that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides. The UMN recommends using the integrated pest management (IPM) methods for deciding the proper strategy for your yard. This diagram from the University of Massachusetts explains the IPM method. Pesticides Let’s talk a bit more about pesticides. Pesticide is an umbrella term, it covers insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, bactericides and rodenticides (Rodenticides can also kill animals that feed on the rodents). Pesticides can either kill on contact or after being absorbed into tissues (systemic). Many of the same precautions that are on pesticides are also on fertilizers. Check out the sites from the UMN and University of Massachusetts to learn more about chemical and non-chemical ways to control pests and diseases. Know what you are buying There are many different chemical products on the market, so it is vital to know what you are buying and how to use it. If you decide to use a chemical product, here are some tips and legalities. The label will list the species of plants, fungus, bacteria, rodents or insects it will control. Don’t expect it to kill creeping Charlie if that plant is not listed. Contact products such as insecticidal soaps, and horticultural oil (mineral oil) will only kill the insect if it directly contacts the insect. Systemic insecticides are applied to the plant, and any insect that feeds on the plant will die. There are fungicides and bactericides which protect the plant from diseases. For example, there are injections of a fungicide to protect elms from Dutch Elm Disease, and soil drenches or injections of insecticides to control Emerald Ash Borers. Each pesticide and fertilizer that you use is required to have a label to inform you: What P ersonal P rotective E quipment (PPE) you need to keep yourself safe. This can include but is not limited to; safety goggles, breathing masks, long sleeves and pants, footwear, chemical resistant gloves or even full-body coveralls with hood. The label will explain how to clean up yourself and your equipment after using it. Wash hands before and after going to the toilet. Wash any exposed clothing on the hottest wash cycle. It doesn’t hurt to run the washer through the ‘clean’ cycle afterwards. Proper storage and disposal practices Pay attention to precautionary statements Don’t spray during certain wind conditions and temperature ranges. If the temperature is above say, 80F, a sprayed pesticide can volatilize and drift onto non-targeted plants. If the wind is more than about 2-4 miles/hour, the pesticide can blow onto desirable plants. Don’t spray if rain is expected before the estimated drying time. If it runs off it will not affect the plant or insect, and can contaminate the water supply. Where NOT to apply it, (usually not near bodies of water, because it can be toxic to fish and invertebrates). And directions for use The rate of application. You must measure the area and do the math. How long before re-entry, or replanting. How to apply it, e.g. to the point of run-off, or otherwise. How often to apply it. Organic Pesticides and others Products that are labeled for use on organic produce aren’t always ‘safe’. If not used in accordance with the label they can kill your plants and may harm you and/or the environment. Please read the labels on organic pesticides carefully. The above photos are all from an organic pesticide. Homemade products don’t have labels to tell you how to use them safely. Happy and Safe Gardening this year! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,4,5), https://www.umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/integrated-pest-management/about (3)

< Back Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Not every seed is created equal. Trying to get some of the native perennials to germinate seems to require an Act of Congress. And they’re gridlocked! Not so with the humble but glorious zinnia. In my book, zinnias are some of the most overlooked yet rewarding annuals a Minnesotan could hope for. Although originating in Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., varieties have been developed all over the world. Yet they all still retain their love of warmth and sunlight, a commodity sometimes in short supply up here. Fear not! Simply sew zinnia seeds after the last hard frost and bide your time. As things warm up the seedlings will take care of the rest, producing blooms from late spring, far into the fall. If you have a warm sunny spot inside, you might even consider starting some seeds four to six weeks before the last frost. Unlike some more persnickety plants, zinnias germinate readily. You can set them out in the garden when they get two to four inches tall and enjoy weeks of blooms before the seeds you sewed get in gear. There are many varieties of zinnias ranging in height from 6 inches to 4 feet. I like the older, smaller blooms. They are hardy, fast growing, and tough plants. As I said, they do need full sun and warmth, but ask little else. One fertilization a season usually suffices. They are quite disease resistant. Powdery mildew seems to be the only common malady. It doesn’t look very attractive, but the plants usually survive. To keep them happy and mildew free, select a well-drained location for planting. Zinnias don’t like their feet wet. Mixed zinnias in full summer bloom If you find a variety you really like, consider collecting seeds in the late fall. Just cut off the spent flowers, shake out the seeds onto a sheet of paper, slip them into an envelope and store in the fridge until early next spring to start indoors or sew in the garden a bit later. Either way you will have bold, bright colors to cheer you through the gardening season! Late fall zinnia seed heads ready for harvest Want to learn more about zinnias than you thought there was to learn? Try Eric Grissell’s new book, A History of Zinnias: Flower for the Ages , Perdue University Press, West Layette, IN, 2020. Photo credits: Jim Lakin (1, 2)

< Back Rose Mallow - A Rose of the North Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Have a riverbank, marsh, or rain garden to manage? Consider adding the lovely, long-blooming Rose Mallow. This article will tell you why and how. Hibiscus lasiocarpos As Juliet observed of her beloved Romeo, “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” We may then ask, “Would that which we call a rose be less beautiful if it is not?” To this I would unhesitatingly say, “Yes in the case of the rose mallow”. H. lasiocarpos and H. moscheutos are nearly identical members of the mallow family (Malvaceae). They are native to most of the Lower Midwest and northward to areas around Lakes Michigan and Erie. Their closely related cousin, the somewhat more cold-tolerant Halberd-leaved rose mallow ( H. laevis ) is native to Southeast Minnesota and up the Missouri River Valley. The rose mallows are hardy through zones 4-9. These perennials are closely related to the much-prized tropical hibiscus. Halberd-leaved rose mallow As you might expect, this gorgeous plant has been hybridized into a large number of attractive cultivars available at your local nursery. The value of these cultivars to our pollinators remains to be determined. There is no question, however that the three native species are key players in the ecological web of the Northern Midwest. They are very nectar and pollen rich, being great additions to a pollinator garden. Halberd-leaved rose mallow The rose mallows are essentially a wetlands plant found around lakes and rivers. They may even be seen growing in standing water. They do well though in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. If they are in a bed, remember to water them during dry, mid-summer weather. They eventually grow to about five feet so you should keep that in mind if inserting them into a border garden. They do well as a backdrop to sun loving ground covers. Rose mallow is slow to emerge from dormancy but once in gear it is a rapid grower, putting on as much as an inch per day. The blooms are quite showy, appearing from July to September so you would do well to mix them with earlier blooming perennials such as Jacob’s Ladder or creeping phlox. The flowers are from three to five inches across with a red center “eye” from which the stamen protrudes. Flower petals may vary from white to shades of pink. Once established, application of a slow-release fertilizer in the spring can enhance growth. While you are at it, pruning back the old growth to about six inches will help to make way for the new foliage. Deadheading usually is not necessary. Rose mallow winters over pretty well although putting a couple of inches of mulch over the plants in the fall will reduce the chance of winter kill. So, if you have a riverbank, marsh or rain garden to plant, you would do well to incorporate the lovely rose mallow. Photo Credit: Taylor Creek Nursery (1,2,3)

< Back Bleach Dying Dark T-Shirts Joy Johnson, Master Gardener We’re always looking for activities for our children or grandchildren in the summer. A fun summer project to do with children, or adults for that matter, is bleach dying. It’s cheap, fairly easy, fun and educational. In this article you will learn how to use plants from your garden to create a fun and pretty design through bleach dying. A fun summer project to do with children, or adults for that matter, is bleach dying. It’s cheap, fairly easy, fun and educational. I think in lists, so this is written as a list, it may seem long, but the actually process goes quite quickly. I just didn’t want to leave anything out, so you can have a successful product. 1. Wear really old clothes and shoes that you don’t care about (or go barefoot). 2. Warn anyone who has cuts or scrapes on their hands, as children often do, this will sting a bit, so prepare them for that. It does do a really good job of cleaning their hands! I would not wear gloves; you need to be able to grab and move wet delicate leaves and coins quickly and carefully. 3. Equipment needed: a. Two large buckets (5 gallon) b. Bleach c. Vinegar d. A medium sized spray bottle to put the bleach in. e. Lots of coins to use as weights. Rocks don’t work, I tried that. f. Water g. Kneeling pad if you’re doing this on the ground. h. A large place to work outside (I strongly suggest concrete). DO NOT work on the grass. The bleach will kill the grass. i. A dark colored t-shirt, one for each person, in their size. I chose black, but red, dark green and navy blue or brown work too. j. Cardboard or layers of newspaper to put inside the shirts so the bleach doesn’t soak through. Remember though, the shirt needs to lay flat. k. Extra-large weights for pressing down leaves that tend to curl. I used a piece of plywood and a wooden block. 4. Process: a. Half fill spray bottles with bleach. Rinse them off in case you dripped some on the outside. b. Fill one large bucket about 2/3 full with cold water. Add 2 cups of vinegar. This is your first rinse water. c. Fill the other bucket about 2/3 full with cold water. This is your second rinse water. d. Go snip or pick some leaves, ferns, flowers etc. Just remember that they need to lay flat. It’s helpful to choose leaves that have hair or fuzz on one side because they will stick to the shirt and you can gently press them flat with your hand. e. Put the cardboard inside the shirt. f. Lay the shirt flat on the concrete. g. Lay leaves and ferns on the shirt in whatever design you choose. h. Weigh them down with coins, being very careful to not let the coin go past the edge of the leaf. i. Use plywood or heavy blocks to press delicate curly or especially stubborn leaves that don’t want to lay flat. (Depending on what you have, it might take a while for them to relax and flatten out) this would be a good time to have a snack and work on identifying the various plants that were chosen. j. Remove any large weights carefully. k. Spritz shirt with bleach by standing above it and spraying straight down. DO NOT spray at an angle or you will get bleach under the edge of the leaves and your design won’t be crisp. l. DO NOT overuse the bleach. Wait about 5 seconds and the shirt should start to fade and show other colors. This part is quite fun, because you never know what colors are going to appear. m. Don’t wait too long. The bleach acts quickly and will eat holes in your shirt if you don’t get it in the vinegar water. n. Quickly and carefully remove the coins and leaves. DO NOT let them tip and drip bleach on your shirt. Remember they are covered with bleach. Any drips will show immediately. If you look carefully at the photos, I was moving too fast and dripped a couple of times when removing coins from the morning glory leaves. You can see that a couple of the leaves have drippy dots on them. o. Pick up the shirt by the shoulders and immediately immerse it into the vinegar water bucket. Swish it around, loosen it up, work the vinegar water all through it while counting to 60. p. Squeeze it gently over the bucket q. Immerse it in the plain water bucket and again swish it around and work the plain water all through it, this time count backwards from 60! r. Gently squeeze the shirt letting the water drain back into the bucket. s. Hang on the clothesline to dry t. Or you can wash all your shirts in your washing machine with a bit of detergent in cold water and tumble dry. Make sure no other clothes get washed with the shirts for this first wash. If you’re going to do this, have an empty, clean bucket or laundry basket by your work area to transport them to the machine. Otherwise, you’re going to have a trail of drips from outside all the way to your machine. u. Throw all your leaves and ferns in the trash. v. Rinse off all the coins in the plain water before returning them to your pocket! w. Throw cardboard away or recycle. x. Empty all of the spray bottles back into the large bleach container and thoroughly rinse them OR clearly label them “Bleach.” y. Empty the water buckets and return all other supplies. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Food for Thought in the Home Landscape Everyone wants a yard that is both beautiful and functional. For anyone wanting to grow food and make their landscapes more productive, there are many ways to incorporate both, outside of the usual raised beds, berry bushes, and fruit trees. Many more plants and plant parts than you might think are edible, and you can create layered designs to maximize density and diversity. Read this article for ideas and resources that you can put to use in your own yard. Greg Siems, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern When you think of an edible garden, what comes to mind? You might picture some raised beds filled with annual vegetables, a healthy patch of raspberries or rhubarb, or perhaps a small grove of dwarf fruit trees. Beyond these familiar and delicious friends, there are plenty of lesser-known roots, shoots, fruits and flowers that can be incorporated into your home landscape. The University of Minnesota Extension website provides a long of list fruits and flowers that can be grown in Minnesota and incorporated into your home landscape. Of course, only certain flowers are edible, so you must learn which flowers and which parts of a flower are edible. And make sure that the plants you eat have not been treated with harmful chemicals. Some examples of edible flowers listed by the U of M Extension at the above link are: nasturtiums, calendula, squash flower, borage, anise hyssop, bachelor buttons, beebalm and many more. Coneflower and Anise Hyssop If you are interested in exploring edibles and how they can be incorporated in your garden, visit the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Foodscape . The Foodscape at the Farm at the Arb is a great model of “sustainable landscape design that combines the intentional use of food plants for their edible qualities as well as their ornamental value.” Thankfully, there doesn’t always have to be a tradeoff between a yard that looks good and one that tastes good. Foodscape at the UMN Landscape Arboretum Many of us are limited on space for our gardens. In relatively small urban and suburban lots, our eyes can easily become bigger than our yards when it comes to the wide variety of tasty things we could grow. If so, you should become familiar with the food forest approach. A food forest is made up of a variety of plants that mimic growth patterns found in nature. A food forest typically includes larger food-producing trees, small trees and shrubs, and a floor of annuals, perennial, root and ground cover crops and vines. Food forest projects are often group partnerships which make use of larger growing areas. However, you don’t need room for a full “forest” to take advantage of planting in layers. Making full use of the canopy, understory, and floor is a great way to maximize diversity and yields in your home garden. There are also culinary and medicinal uses for many plants that were not intentionally cultivated. Dandelions are a well-known example; others such as plantain , purslane , and even the dreaded creeping bellflower provide some benefits. Learn more about what to look for at this U of M Extension article on weeds so that the next time you are out weeding, consider if there might be a few things you’d like to try in your next salad! What’s more, if you happen to have a taste for these plants, you can harvest to your heart’s content, knowing that you’re helping to strengthen your local ecosystem in the process. Inspiration abounds for expanding your palate and introducing some exciting new elements to your existing panoply of plants. Check out a few of these other Extension resources for more ideas and information: “Edible Gardens for People and Pollinators” - University of Minnesota Extension “The Incredible Edible Landscape” - Iowa State University Extension “Edible Perennials” - University of Illinois Extension “Foraging for Backyard Edibles” - North Carolina State Extension So, take advantage of this great research and put it to use in creating an attractive and edible garden in your yard. Reference: extension.umn.edu A home for homegrown food at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Ten Master Gardener volunteers were part of the team that built The Foodscape surrounding the new Burton and Virginia Myers Education Center. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back Winter Wild Bird Care – How to help our feathered friends survive in the frozen north BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener On September 22, the path of our Sun crossed the equator, headed south. We all know what’s coming to Minnesota: longer nights and lower temperatures. Our beautiful gardens are dying back, leaves are changing to stunning colors before dropping and blowing away, and many of our warm weather birds are departing for warmer climes. But some birds say in Minnesota year-round and other birds fly south to our state from the Arctic. We all enjoy watching beautiful, colorful birds in the winter. Here are some ideas for helping our winter resident birds make it through a Minnesota winter. While hummingbirds and orioles will be following the sun to the south, many birds will be heading south from the Arctic, to winter here. Others have adapted to staying year-round. As the temperatures drop, so do the food sources many birds rely on. While seeds may be available, protein in the form of insects is not. Providing those important foods and water, not only helps maintain a healthier bird population, but brings the joy of watching birds at our feeders; the bright red flash of the Cardinal, the raucous call of the Blue Jay, the gregarious flitting of chickadees. What a lovely way to brighten our bleak mid-winters. Here are some ideas for helping our winter resident birds make it through a Minnesota winter. Common Winter Residents We can surely be grateful that so many species have adapted to winters in Minnesota. Downy, Hairy, and Pileated Woodpeckers remain, as do Cardinals, Finches, Blue Jays, Nuthatches, Robins, and Chickadees. All of these birds will frequent backyard feeders as a source of a meal. Additionally, those harbingers of winter weather, the Dark-eyed Junco will feed on some seeds scattered on the snow. Bird Feeders-One type does not fit all Imagine sitting at your dinner table. Your chair is turned 90 degrees to the right and you must twist your upper body to face your plate. This is why some birds, usually smaller, are able to easily eat from a feeder that has short posts as perches while Cardinals and Jays find “fly-through” and “hopper” feeders, ones where they can perch facing the food easier to use. Cylinder feeders that have a tray to catch seeds that fall can be used by all of these birds. Unless you enjoy feeding squirrels, the feeders should be pole mounted at least 5 feet off the ground and 8 feet from a tree. A baffle on the pole will prevent squirrels and raccoons from climbing the pole and eating the food you specifically purchased for the birds. There are squirrel-proof feeders available as well. Keeping your bird seed dry and the feeders clean is imperative. Bird seed that gets damp could freeze, making it difficult for birds to eat. Furthermore, damp seed is prone to turning moldy and could make your birds sick. Bird feeders that are not cleaned regularly may harbor disease like mycoplasmal conjunctivitis which may lead to blindness and death. Domes for the feeders can help keep the seed dry and cleaning feeders at least monthly will reduce the likelihood of spreading disease. Glass, metal and plastic feeders should be cleaned with a diluted bleach solution (1:10) then thoroughly rinsed and dried. Wooden feeders can be cleaned with a weak vinegar and water solution Goldfinch with mycoplasmal conjunctivitis Bird Food – lots of fat and carbs, please It is quite easy to plan for winter bird feeding. The three main choices of food are large seeds, small seeds, and suet. Large seeds include black-oil sunflower, striped sunflower, safflower, peanuts, shelled corn, ear corn and cardinal mixes that contain sunflower, safflower and peanuts. About 80 to 90 percent of seed used in Minnesota is comprised of black-oil sunflower seeds and cardinal mixes. These have the greatest appeal to the broadest variety of winter birds and contain a high energy content. Small seeds like cracked corn or milo (sorghum) attract house sparrows and so it is best to avoid them. Nyger seed, a heat-treated thistle, is an excellent all-winter staple for American goldfinches, common and hoary redpolls, house and purple finches, and pine siskins. Furthermore, Dark-eyed Juncos will eat Nyjer scattered on the snow while squirrels will not! Suet provides high energy nutritional benefits. Pileated woodpeckers seem to prefer their suet on solid platforms instead of suspended feeders. Chickadees, woodpeckers, and nuthatches all benefit from a suet feeder. Water – it’s not easy to get A Black-Capped Chickadee weighs less than ½ ounce. It’s not hard to imagine the amount of energy it would expend to melt snow if that were its only source of water. Water is a critical ingredient of a winter-feeding program. The water needs a heating element and a thermostat. Several excellent birdbaths with heating elements and thermostats are available from bird-feeding supply stores. Five Best Winter Bird-Feeding Practices Select the best seed for the season. High fat and energy foods are important to get birds through the winter's cold nights. Water for drinking should be available. Remember snow requires energy to melt and energy is in short supply. Have multiple foods at multiple feeders. Suet, cylinder, hopper, and fly-through feeders can hold different foods and will attract different birds. Provide protection from predators. Having your feeders near bushes or a tree-line will give backyard birds a place to duck and cover should a hawk or cat come by. Maintain good feeder site hygiene. Clean and disinfect your feeders monthly to prevent diseases from spreading. Helping birds through the harsh Minnesota winters is both rewarding and enjoyable. It is a winter “win-win” for both the birds and us. Photo Credit: flickr.com (1), Douglas Hansell (2,3)

< Back The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life “The Backyard Parables: Lesson on Gardening, and Life,” is a gardening memoir of sorts writing by Margaret Roach. Roach, a former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine, quit her job to tend to her gardens full-time. In this delightful book, Roach dispenses both gardening and life lessons. Read this book review to learn more. Reviewed by Linda Holt, Master Gardener “The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life is a gardening memoir. You may recognize the author, Margaret Roach, as the former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine. Her up-state New York garden has been featured several times in that magazine. She left this high-powered position to work fulltime on her gardens. Within this book she shares her journey in that effort including her gardening wins and losses - made humble by mother nature and various animals, including woodchucks and deer to name a few. Her garden story is told both from a practical and spiritual perspective, therefore the use of the word ‘parable’ meaning: “a simple story used to illustrate a moral or spiritual lesson”. Roach’s memoir is broken into 4 parts or chapters, as she describes the ‘life’ of her garden. She begins with ‘Water (Winter), the crucial time period that the important work of planning the garden and purchasing the seeds begins. Within each chapter she includes sidebars where she shares her wisdom regarding the lessons she has learned over her 25 years as a gardener. Within this chapter is an amusing tale where she attempts to rescue frogs located within her garden ponds. The device meant to keep the occupants of the pond alive during the long, cold winter failed to work. So, she trudged out in the ice-cold darkness of her thigh high snow filled yard to be a savior to her beloved frogs. Quite an entertaining story follows. The next section is ‘Earth (spring)’, the third section is entitled ‘Fire (summer) and the fourth is ‘Wind (Autumn)’. Within each section she shares gardening lessons learned along the way that correspond to the evolution of the garden and how that relates to our changing selves. It is a truly delightful book and best experienced by reading slowly and thoughtfully. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Margaret Roach (1)

< Back Make Your Own Terrariums Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Terrariums are miniature gardens that can bring a touch of nature to any room, making them the perfect project for kids who love getting their hands dirty and learning about the environment. Not only are they fun and easy to create, but they also teach children responsibility and patience as they watch their plants grow and thrive. Here are some tips for getting your little ones involved in planting and caring for their own terrariums. 1. Choose a container The first step in creating a terrarium is choosing a container. This can be anything from an old mason jar to a fishbowl. It’s important to make sure the container is clear so that your child can easily see the plants growing inside. 2. Select the plants Next, let your child choose the plants they want to include in their terrarium. Succulents and cacti are great options as they’re low-maintenance and can survive in a variety of conditions. Other plants to consider are moss, ferns, and air plants. It’s important to choose plants that have similar care requirements and will grow well together in a closed environment. 3. Layer the soil and gravel Place a layer of gravel at the bottom of the container for drainage, then add a layer of potting soil. This will give the plants the necessary nutrients to grow. You can also add a layer of activated charcoal to prevent odors and keep the soil fresh. 4. Plant and decorate Let your child get their hands dirty and help them plant the chosen plants in the soil. They can also add decorative elements such as small figurines or rocks to add a personal touch to the terrarium. Encourage them to use their creativity and make it their own. 5. Provide care and maintenance Explain to your child the importance of taking care of their terrarium by watering it regularly and providing adequate sunlight. It’s important to not overwater the terrarium as the enclosed environment can become too damp, causing the plants to rot. Teach your child to pay attention to the signs of when a terrarium needs water, such as dry soil or droopy plants. For more information about building terrariums, watch this video ! Photo credits: All creative commons (1), Cassandrapence.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Putting Your Garden to Bed If it’s yellow or brown, cut it down. If it’s green, leave it alone. This long-standing rule-of-thumb means you can’t just wake up one day and decide to put your garden to bed for the winter. It’s a gradual process because plants die back at different rates depending on when they transition energy to the roots. Cutting off green leaves can weaken a plant and affect its vigor and bloom next year. Besides, there are lots of reasons to avoid cutting shrubs, stems and perennials – for winter interest and for wildlife. Here are some ways to ready your gardens for cold and snow ahead. Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Ready for a Long Winter’s Nap? October is the time to put your garden to bed. This means cutting things back, cleaning up what's left, packing away tools and pots, and getting everything ready to go for next spring. Then you can settle in for winter knowing that your garden will look healthy and happily tucked in! Cut Back Keep your garden tidy and save labor later by cutting back many perennials after frost causes them to turn brown and die. On the other hand, some perennials (like Catmint) look good until the snow flies and can be left until spring. And some perennials offer seed heads for foraging birds…or shelter for beneficial insects. These plants support Mother Nature while providing some interest in what might otherwise be a bleak winter landscape. In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. Remember, don't prune woody plants, trees and shrubs until late winter when they are dormant. Clean Up Healthy plant debris can be composted at home or at a municipal compost site. Debris from plants with powdery mildew or other diseases should be composted at a municipal site, where temperatures get high enough to kill the disease. Pull dead or declining annuals. It's hard to do, but they won’t come back next spring. Clean up overgrown areas to prevent animals and pests from moving in – like brush piles or hidden spots around the yard where weedy trees and shrubs have taken root. Harvest everything above ground in the vegetable garden and under fruit trees. Don't leave fruits and vegetables out all winter to rot, attract animals, and set seed. Other Tasks Empty, clean and disinfect your containers by spraying them with a bleach cleaner. Pottery should be moved into a shed or garage to avoid freezing and breaking. Clean and store stakes, tomato cages, garden ornaments and other hardware. They’ll last longer and look better next spring. Clean soil from your tools, then sharpen edges with a file. Finish with a light coating of oil to prevent rusting. Move any plants that spend their winters inside. Quarantine before introducing them to your other houseplants to prevent pests from spreading. Dig up your tender bulbs and tubers well before the threat of frost. Store them in a warm, dry place out of direct light. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: October Gardening Tips from the University of Minnesota Arboretum – October Gardening Tips (umn.edu) Protecting trees and shrubs in winter | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2), University of Minnesota Extension (3, 4)

< Back Herbs For A Winter Lift Does the cilantro go limp before you use it? Is the basil brown when you remember to reach for it? Does your store tend to not have chives when you need them? Remedy these issues AND cheer up your indoor space by growing a few pots of herbs in a sunny window. Read this article to learn more about which herbs will grow best inside your house this winter. Sally McNamara, Dakota County Master Gardener Does the cilantro go limp before you use it? Is the basil brown when you remember to reach for it? Does your store tend to not have chives when you need them? Remedy these issues AND cheer up your indoor space by growing a few pots of herbs in a sunny window. West or east facing are best. One can use grow lights but herbs can be happy with good light from windows. Which herbs could you grow? Aloe does not usually show up on an indoor herb list but it is super easy to grow, and share, and is really handy in the case of a kitchen burn. Slice a spear and spread the goo on the burn. Aloe reproduces readily and either needs to be shared or thinned or your kitchen will be full of aloe plants. Aloe can be planted in cactus mix soil. Basil is easy to find as a potted plant but is not long lasting. It is nice to have fresh basil leaves exactly when you need them but it might be challenging to grow enough for a good pesto in a window pot. Be generous in using it and replace it when it gets spindly. Chives take a while to fill a pot if planted from seed but are handy to have on hand. Cut them and they will regrow from the roots. One option is to pot up a piece of an outdoor bunch in fall to have on hand over the winter. Cilantro is a good choice if enough is grown to really be useful. A few sprigs usually is not what the recipe wants. Cilantro, like basil has a short life span so starting pots in a sequence will give a more continuous supply. Good draining and adequate water are important for success with cilantro. Sage , thyme and oregano all do well indoors. Drainage is important. Cutting the plants to use them encourages more growth. Lemon balm is not as useful in meal cooking as the herbs above but it is an easy to grow, very fragrant and attractive plant which goes into desserts and drinks and is a stress reliever. Snip and bruise some leaves for a quick lift of the spirits. It might want a little more space than some others. Rosemary might be one of the most useful and attractive herbs to grow because it doesn’t take many leaves to enhance a recipe but it can be fussy indoors. Good drainage, good light and letting the soil dry between waterings are important. This is a prime candidate for overwintering as it grows bigger each season; it is a shrub not an annual plant. Often an overwintered rosemary blooms with blue flowers inside in winter. Check for insects when bringing it in the fall. Warning: overwintering rosemary is a competitive sport to some of us. Indoor plants are mood enhancing generally but even more so when they are useful and decorative. The worst that can happen is learning how NOT to care for your herbs. We all grow by trying with some success and some failure. Photo Credit: www.pickpik.com (All Creative Commons) (1), en.wikipedia.org (All Creative Commons) (2), Whitwam Organics (3), The Growers Exchange (4), www.publicdomainpictures.net (5), kathleenkirkpoetry.blogspot.com (6), commons.wikimedia.org (7)

< Back BULBS 101 Snowdrops and daffodils are harbingers of spring, the first flowers to appear after the snow has melted and the days start to lengthen. For many of us, these early bulbs are a wake-up call, reminding us that the growing season is beginning. Of course, if seeing daffodils makes us want them in our own gardens, it’s too late for this year! For many Minnesota gardeners, bulbs have been in our yards for decades. However, if you’re new to bulbs or would just like a more in-depth look at them, this Bulb Primer is for you! Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener Not all bulbs are bulbs: Understanding the different types: True Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, and Rhizomes Not all of what we home gardeners call bulbs are—technically speaking—bulbs. Horticulturists identify different structures for different flowers, and these terms highlight the great variety we find amongst our favorite flowers. A true bulb has a plate from which roots will shoot, and is made up of several scales or layers like garlic bulbs that contain nutrients for its growth. True bulbs include daffodils, alliums, hyacinths, and tulips. Corms, like crocuses and gladioli, have a similar plate of roots, but no scales; they are a solid, compressed food storage unit. Tubers, like dahlias and begonias, bud from an enlarged rootlike structure which multiplies underground like potatoes, while rhizomes, like canna lilies and lily-of-the-valley, are horizontal structures that look like swollen stems. The horticultural name for bulbs—for all true bulbs, corms, rhizomes, tubers —is geophytes. It’s fitting, as “geo” means “earth” and “phyte” means plant. These plants of the earth all have underground storage organs from which they will grow. Hardy versus Tender Much like Minnesota retirees, the most important distinction amongst geophytes is where they will spend the winter. Do they like the cold or will they need warmer weather? Hardy bulbs are tough enough to survive outside in the wintertime. In fact, that cold snap is vital! Because of this, hardy bulbs are planted in autumn and will bloom for the first time the following spring. Hardy bulbs are often the first flowers to appear in spring: snowdrops, daffodils, crocuses, alliums, and more. They must be buried to the appropriate depth, and in an area with good drainage. Although hardy bulbs can stay in the ground indefinitely, they do require some maintenance. Every 3-4 years, hardy bulbs may need to be dug up and divided to prevent overcrowding. Tender bulbs are too delicate for winter and must be removed from our gardens before a frost sets in. Stored indoors during winter, they can be planted again in late spring for late summer or autumn blossoms. Canna lilies, begonias, freesia, gladiolus, and dahlias are amongst the most popular tender bulbs. Learn how to care for bulbs and rhizomes over the winter to prevent problems and rot. Take care when digging up bulbs, clean the soil from them gently, and in some cases, let them cure for a week in the sunlight before storing them in paper bags out of the light during winter months. For more information, read this article from the U of M Extension. If you want to plant hardy bulbs, you will have to wait for the fall. But you can still plant tender bulbs this spring for enjoyment during the summer. Resources: U of MN Extension: Planting Bulbs, Tubers, and Rhizomes. https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes#soil-preparation-1410662 University of FL: Geophytes. https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/07-geophytes/01-bulbs/02-geophytes-bulbs.html Photo Credits: U of M Extension (1,2), www.flickr.com (3)

< Back Make Seed Tape with Your Child Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Growing your own vegetables has many benefits. It is a source of delicious food, of course. But it is also a source of wonder for adults and children alike. You can share the wonder with the child in your life by planting vegetable seeds. In this article, learn how to create and plant nice, straight rows of perfectly spaced garden vegetables by using seed tape. A perfect gardening activity for you and your child or grandchild. It’s easy to plant nice, straight rows of perfectly spaced garden vegetables when you use seed tape. You can buy seed tape, but it’s much more fun to make your own, using seeds for vegetables your child enjoys eating, plus a few household items you probably have on hand. You will need: Seeds Single-ply toilet paper (you can separate the paper layers if it is two-ply) Toothpicks Ruler Marker 2 tablespoons of white flour 1 tablespoon of water 1. Choose seeds that have time to mature in Minnesota. Minnesota has a shorter growing season than many states, so select varieties of seeds that will mature more quickly. To find out how long the growing season is where you live, consult the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources’ Final Spring/First Fall Freeze & Frost Date Propabilities . Then, compare that timing with the “Days to Harvest” on seed packets or online—the average number of days from planting until it’s time to harvest, according to Oregon State University. 2. Prepare the toilet paper. Roll out the toilet paper, tearing it off in two or three-foot lengths. If the toilet paper is two-ply, separate the layers. Fold the paper in half along its length, creasing the folded edge, then open, creating a furrow. 3. Measure and mark the toilet paper. Refer to the seed packet to find the spacing distance between seeds. If the distance between seeds should be 2”, use a ruler to measure and mark in the furrow every 2” from one end of the toilet paper strip to the other. 4. Make homemade edible glue, and use it to affix a seed at each mark on the paper . Mix the 2 tablespoons of white flour with 1 tablespoon of water to make glue. Dip a toothpick in the glue, pick up one seed, and place it on each mark on the toilet paper strip. 5. Seal and roll. When seeds have been placed on all the marks on the paper, place more glue dots along one long edge of the toilet paper. Fold the paper on the crease, covering the seeds; press along the long edge. Allow the glue to dry for at least two hours. Then, roll up each strip of toilet paper. Store in a cool, dry spot until planting time. After the last frost date in your area, roll out the tape in your garden bed, cover with soil to the planting depth on the seed packet, and water. Then, watch the magic begin. Photo Credit: Marie Stolte (1,2,3) & www.thegardeningme.com (4)