< Back American Holly (Ilex opaca): Deck the Halls! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener American holly is a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes. But this tree is also a great year-round addition to the landscape. Read this article to learn why. It may be August but I’m getting stoked up for the Holidays, thinking about American holly ( Ilex opaca ), a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes although this tree is a great year-round addition to the landscape. American holly grows to a height of 15 to 30 feet. Native to the Eastern Coast and nearer Midwest, northern cultivars have spread across Iowa and up into Southern to Central Minnesota. When purchasing American Holly, do be careful to select a cultivar that has proven its hardiness in the Midwest. If you have any questions about that, you might consult the website of the Dawes Arboretum in Columbus, Ohio. They have an excellent collection of over 200 cultivars adapted to the Midwest. Mature American holly When selecting your specimen, you must be mindful that American Holly is dioecious. In other words, there are boy trees and girl trees. So, a male tree must be in the neighborhood for female trees to produce fruit. There are a number of hybrids available commercially. They do grow more rapidly than the native variety. However, they are far less hardy. A severe Minnesota winter can reduce their leaves to a dingy brown, not so festive for Christmas. If you are patient, the native cultivars will slowly grow and demonstrate remarkable hardiness. A few points for siting should be kept in mind. American holly is hardy only to Zone 5. So, in Minnesota it is best to select a protected site from the winter winds. Also, it requires full sun to part shade to thrive. Our hot summers can also affect the tree, so it’s best to site is where it enjoys the afternoon shade. Well-drained soil is a must. It does best in a neutral to acid soil, so amendments should be made if your soil is alkaline. fruit of the female tree If care is taken and patience exercised, American holly will provide great rewards. This stately and colorful tree will bring joy and lift the spirits for many a Holiday Season. Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)

< Back Black Chokeberry: Showy but Well-Behaved Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As the snow starts to melt and a few green tufts of grass peak out, it’s a great time to start thinking about planting native shrubs. If you have an area that needs screening for privacy, a walkway or border to delineate, a property line that needs a hedge, you would do well to think about a native shrub. Over the next three months we’ll talk about some great options. One very attractive choice is black chokeberry ( Aronia melanocarpa ). A. melanocarpa has been quite popular with the dietetically conscious in that it is rich in antioxidants and, even better, will not make you choke. Although it does have a distinct aftertaste which some find bracing and others, not so much. With the right recipe, the berries can make a tasty jam or jelly. In any event, you don’t need to eat the plant to enjoy it. It is an attractive woody perennial which is well behaved. It makes a great ornamental shrub, especially for a traditional garden. May flowers Black chokeberry grows in the wild from eastern Minnesota and northeastern Iowa eastwards across the Midwest. It is cold tolerant from Zone 3 to 8. Although it grows naturally on sandy soils it can easily be transplanted to a variety of environments ranging from sand to clay. It does well in full sun to light shade. Once established, black chokeberry produces, in May, clusters of attractive, showy white flowers with pink stamens that rise above the petals. They go on to form inky, glossy black fruit in late summer. The berries remain on the shrub through the winter providing interest against the snow. The leaves are usually a deep shimmering green which transforms into bright red in fall, setting off the glossy black fruit. Black chokeberry usually grows 3 to 6 feet tall. Although it is a well-behaved shrub, it will send off root suckers to form colonies. If you are going for a more formal look they can be easily removed. Ripe Fruit Black chokeberry is usually a very low maintenance plant once established. It is disease resistant to most blights although occasional leaf spot is sometimes seen. It is a versatile landscape plant which can be used in formal gardens although it also does well for naturalizing where suckering is not an issue. Its tolerance of boggy soils makes it a great addition to pond or stream margins. There are several cultivars available in nurseries. “Professor Ed” is one notable. Often , on-line sites specializing in native perennials of the Midwest can provide hearty specimens. black chokeberry in a naturalized setting Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2,3)

< Back The Sensory Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Memories are often tied to our senses and for many of us, our first or favorite memories occurred in a garden. This article will discuss how to create a sensory garden that will enliven the senses, spark old memories, and hopefully make some new ones for first time visitors. For me, the smell and taste of chives brings up one of my first memories. As a toddler, I would walk around my parent’s vegetable garden and happily munch on a chive that my father handed me as he scanned the garden for ingredients to use in our dinner. The smell of a tomato vine brings me back to when I would visit my grandparents and was asked to go harvest a few tomatoes for the salad we were going to have for lunch. The sound of wind moving through trees, or a slow-moving creek reminds me of time spent playing in a forest, completely carefree. A sensory garden can be any size and can be created all at once or in stages. Let’s explore the different senses and what we can add to our gardens to create a unique sensory experience. Taste Herbs can be started from seed or purchased as mature plants and can be grown in either your garden or in a pot. Here are a few examples of plants that will bring taste into your garden space. Herbs: Basil, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Oregano, Cilantro Vegetables: Carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, spinach, kale, squash, radish Touch Focus on different textures that you can incorporate into your space. Lambs Ears: a favorite among children Succulents : these can be kept in pots or grown in your garden (some are Minnesota hardy!) Feathered Grasses: run your fingers through the grasses as you walk through your garden Spongy Moss: resilient, unique texture Tree Bark: smooth, peeling or textured Smooth Rocks: stepping stones Tactile Elements : pots, planters, ornaments Smell Some plants give off a beautiful fragrance when the wind comes through or when you brush past them on a walk. Even something as simple as fresh cut grass can be counted as an element within this sense. Lavender: the aroma can help soothe and decrease stress – it is also a great pollinator Herb garden: rosemary, mint, basil, and many others can produce a scent when you rub your hands over the leaves Creeping Thyme: you can release the scent of this plant either by rubbing the leaves between your fingers or by stepping on them as they are often used as a ground cover plant Sight One of the greatest rewards in gardening is being able to sit back and observe a space that you’ve created. There are several ways to bring your garden alive that can be enjoyed through each season. Spring & Summer Different types of bird food and feeders will attract a variety of birds A bird bath or water source with the sound of running water will attract birds Milkweed will attract Monarch Butterflies to your yard and if you’re lucky, they will lay eggs on this plant. Some other plants that attract Monarch Butterflies include: Goldenrod, Butterfly Bush, Cosmos, Lantana, Lilac, Zinnia, Asters, Purple Coneflower, Yarrow and Coreopsis Plant climbing plants over arbors and trellises Include plants with different textures and variegation Incorporate a bench to observe your garden Fall & Winter Some native grasses, like Little Blue Stem, will move from green to blue in the summer and then to red in the fall Burning Bush is another plant that will signal the changing season, becoming a vibrant red in fall As the days get shorter, Autumn Joy Sedum will bring a rosy, pink shade into your garden Enjoy the bright red branches of a Dogwood shrub throughout the cold, gray winter months If you have hydrangeas that bloom on new growth, consider leaving their stems and flowers intact throughout the winter for additional winter interest Sound Sound can be added or attracted to your garden. Water Feature: this will create the sound of water and will also attract birds looking for a place to get a drink and to splash in a bath Beneficial Insects: planting pollinator plants will attract busy buzzing bees as well as other pollinators throughout growing season Ornamental Grasses: wind will move through the grass creating movement and a soothing sound Bird Feeders: attract songbirds by offering a variety of seed mixtures Gravel Paths: listen to the crunch of the gravel as you walk the path through your garden Wind Chimes: add a windchime to your garden to create a beautiful tune as a summer breeze blows through The benefits of creating a sensory garden go far beyond simple enjoyment. These gardens are good for sensory stimulation and development, have calming effects, encourage curiosity and allow for reflection and stress reduction. As Master Gardeners we look for ways to engage with our community and their love of gardening. Master Gardeners have created a program called “Growing Connections” that works hand in hand with the Alzheimer’s Association and focuses on sensory gardening activities. Check out our website for information about Master Gardener events and programs. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back Happy Feathered Friends Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Is it important for us to take care of our feathered friends when the weather turns cold and the snow begins to fly? Yes it is, because birds play an important role in the ecosystem of our garden from weed and pest control to pollination and fertilization, plus birds are fun for all ages to watch. Now it’s time to help the birds stay strong and healthy throughout the Winter with only a few simple supplies needed. Supplies Needed: Pinecones (find pinecones in nature) Peanut Butter, Almond Butter, Sun Butter Bird Seed (smaller seeds are best) String, Twine, Yarn Popsicle Stick/Hands/Butter Knife (dependent on age of participants) Plate/Tray/Large Piece of Thicker Paper Making the Bird Feeder: Place the birdseed on a plate, tray or large sheet of thicker paper and set aside. Choose a pinecone from the ones collected. Carefully take a 1-2 foot piece of string, twine or yarn and begin wrapping it around the pinecone leaving an end that can be used to hang the pine cone from a tree or post. Next, take a popsicle stick, butter knife or your hands and spread peanut butter, almond butter or sun butter onto the pinecone. Spread enough “butter” onto the pinecone so there are lots of spots for the birdseed to stick. Now it is time to get messy! Take the pinecone and roll it in the birdseed making sure to coat as much of the pine cone as possible. Once you have completed coating the pinecone in birdseed the next step is to hang it outside. Remember to place the Pinecone Bird feeder in a spot where the birds feel protected from predators. Once you have found the right spot, sit back and enjoy the birds. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1,2), www.Pexels.com (3,4)

< Back Square Foot Gardening Do you want to grow vegetables in your garden but you don’t have a lot of space or you only have one sunny spot or your soil isn’t conducive to growing or you just want a few vegetables for your family? Square foot gardening may be your answer. This approach will save time, work, space, and water. And, you will produce some delicious vegetables for your family. Read this article for more information about why square foot gardening may be for you and how to get started. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener With a short growing season, gardeners want high yields of fresh produce from their vegetable gardens, yet many people have limited space suitable for growing. “Square Foot Gardening” is a method of gardening with the underlying premise of producing a greater variety of vegetables in a small space. It is also intended to make gardening more accessible to a greater number of people. According to the Square Foot Gardening Foundation website , this method is, “estimated to cost 50% less, use 20% less space, 10% of the water, and 2% of the work”. They state there will be almost no weeds and you save time and effort because you don’t have to dig, rototill, or use heavy equipment, and fertilizers aren’t needed. It almost sounds too good to be true! However, many people have used this method successfully for 25 years. In the U.S., our standard gardening approach is to plant in rows. This is how many of us have done it for generations, passed down through our families. We have developed tools that support this approach for watering and weeding between the rows, using mulch papers or rototillers small enough for a row. We have row markers, seed tapes, and many other gardening supplies that support the row gardening approach. According to Bartholomew, this approach makes gardening harder than it needs to be with much of the growing space given over to aisles between the plants, resulting in a need to constantly weed those non-growing areas. He also argues that planting in rows results in overplanting. He uses the example of planting cabbages, suggesting few people find it useful to have 30 cabbage heads ripening at the same time. Square foot gardening suggests a different approach that carefully spaces plants to efficiently use space, manage the size of the harvest, and allow for successive planting, e.g., growing multiple crops in one growing season. Instead of sowing seeds and then having to thin the plants, this approach suggests placing the seeds at the distance you’d thin the plants. For example, if the seed packet says thin to 6 inches between plants, you can just space your seeds out that distance in all directions within the square. You can put a ‘pinch’ of seeds in each planting site to increase the chances of germination and instead of thinning, snip out the unneeded plants. This lessens the chance of disturbing or weaking the roots of the plant you are keeping. Most square foot gardens are 4 feet x 4 feet raised beds. They can be other sizes; however, you will want to make sure you can reach all areas of the bed without stepping on the soil. Stepping on soil compacts it, which makes it more difficult for plants to grow. The soil in the raised bed should be a mix of compost, vermiculite, and peat moss. The location of the square foot garden is important, with sufficient sunlight important and access to a water source. Bartholomew suggests placing it near the house so you always have a visual on your growing plants. Within the 4 x 4 space (or whatever size bed being used), a grid of 1 foot x 1 foot squares are laid to mark out each plot. In a 4 x 4 bed, you will have 16 squares in which to plant. The number of plants or seeds you grow in each square is dependent on the full size of the vegetable or flower. For example, in the 1 ft x 1 ft square, you could grow one tomato, or four heads of lettuce, or eight bunches of swiss chard, or sixteen carrots, or thirty-two radishes. Once you have harvested the vegetable, a new crop can be planted. Since one of the other premises of Square Foot Gardening is reducing the need for fertilizer, Bartholomew says you only need to add a shovel of compost prior to each new planting. Square foot gardening will meet the needs of many gardeners. However, those wanting to produce large harvests for canning, freezing, and other methods of preserving, may not find they get the quantities they want using this method. For those wanting a manageable amount of produce, this may be a great way to help limit the amount grown, although if you grow a zucchini plant, you will probably still need to sneak around after dark ‘bestowing’ your bounty on your neighbors’ doorsteps. References: Square Foot Gardening Foundation: https://squarefootgardening.org/ All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew Square Foot Gardening. Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia Square foot gardening: a formula for successful intensive gardening. Michigan State University Extension Photo credits: Master Gardener Program of North Virginia (1), Michigan State Extension (2)

< Back Mindfulness in the Garden with Kids Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Winter is a lovely time to experience and appreciate nature. The muted colors and slower gardening pace allow us the opportunity to take in and observe our natural environment more closely. Observing nature in winter with the children in your life enhances the experience. Watch your children, not only learn, but interact joyfully with the peaceful winter world around them. Read this article for tips about how to experience mindfulness in our natural spaces with children. We have heard about the mental and physical benefits of time spent in nature. Winter is a time when many of the colors of the warmer seasons are muted, and there is a hush as snow covers the garden and landscape. Mindfulness speaks to an intentional approach to experiencing our natural spaces - both outdoors and inside. We can do this in all seasons, but winter is a great time to slow down and focus before the explosion of sensory stimuli we anxiously await in spring. DO Here are five ways to practice mindfulness in the garden with kids. 1. Get up close to different textures and take some time to really look. Ask your child partner what they see once the leaves have fallen and we can find the contrasts between the bark, stems, and other organic materials against the snow on the ground. 2. Continue on a walk to visit dormant perennials and bulbs you may have planted last summer and fall. Ask your child partner what they think is going on with the plants underground. 3. Calmly look around your garden. Do you see or hear signs of the creatures that spend the winter there, such as nests or tracks in the snow? What do you think it feels like for those creatures in their winter homes? 4. Find a quiet place to sit - on the ground or on a garden bench perhaps. Close your eyes and listen to the garden while taking some slow breaths in - counting 1, 2, 3 - and out - 1, 2, 3. Do this a few more times before continuing your mindful garden walk. 5. Color awareness: take some time to observe colors in your winter garden - maybe some red branches of a dogwood, or brown leaves, or even some faded yellow flowers. Can you see why some plants and trees are called evergreens? How do you feel when you look at the plants around you? Winter weather making it difficult to get outside? We can practice mindfulness in our indoor gardens too. Take a slow tour of house plants, and pause to breathe deeply at each one. Ask your child partner for their observations of color, shape, or even what they would call the plant Plant a few seeds in a pot or tray and place in a warm, bright spot. Make a practice of visiting the seeds and any sprouts, and just taking time to observe what you see. Take some cuttings of plants - such as Trandescantia - and place in a clear glass or vase of water. Pay attention to any roots that grow and ask the child how this helps the plant. Most importantly, mindfulness in our gardens and other natural spaces allows our children of all ages to slow down and practice awareness in a busy world. It’s okay if they find treasures or want to make a drawing along the way, but the focus is on the present - a good skill for gardeners of all ages! READ And here are some books to read with your child gardener: Sing a Season Song , written by Jane Yolen and illustrated by Lisel Jane Ashlock At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=sing+a+season+song On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sing-Season-Song-Jane-Yolen/dp/1568462557/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14CIL143WDVQ9&keywords=sing+a+season+song&qid=1640814878&s=books&sprefix=sing+a+season+song%2Cstripbooks%2C152&sr=1-2 If I Were a Tree , written by Andrea Zimmerman and illustrated by Jing Jing Tsong At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=If+I+were+a+tree On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/If-Were-Tree-Andrea-Zimmerman/dp/1620148013/ref=sr_1_1?crid=RITY8K7B18WU&keywords=if+i+were+a+tree&qid=1640814994&s=books&sprefix=if+i+were+a+tree%2Cstripbooks%2C101&sr=1-1 (Making Tracks) Park by Cocoretto (Board Book) At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?qu=park+cocoretto&te=&lm=NONDIGITAL On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Making-Tracks-Cocoretto/dp/1786282933/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ANJRGNFUF6L8&keywords=park+cocoretto&qid=1640815429&s=books&sprefix=park+cocoretto%2Cstripbooks%2C93&sr=1-1 Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke

< Back Houseplant Pests Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Discovering and controlling pests on your indoor plants is an important step for keeping your indoor garden healthy and happy. The information in this article will help you keep these unwanted visitors off your plants and out of your home. Last month we talked about keeping your houseplants healthy, paying attention to growing requirements, fertilization, watering, hygiene and potting soil. Minding all these factors will reduce the chance of sickly plants and pest attacks. Yet, alas, in even the best of environments, insect problems sometimes rear their ugly heads. So, what to do if you suspect you have some unwelcome residents on your houseplants? As we said, inspect them for insect pests when you water, clean or fertilize. They most often congregate on the underside of leaves. You should look for insects, holes, webbing or eggs. Give an even closer inspection to any plants brought in from the store or the outside. Using a magnifying glass helps. It also impresses any bystanders. You want to look for “honeydew” which is a shiny sticky substance produced by aphids, mealybugs and scale insects. Also check plant containers for pests along the ridges and bottom of pots and saucers. It’s not a bad idea to put a new plant in quarantine, away from the rest of your collection, for a week or two. More often than not a pest problem will declare itself during this period. Honeydew on houseplant leaves. When you water the plants keep a sharp lookout for bugs like springtails and fungus gnats. They usually move with the water. If you think you might have flying insects like thrips, winged aphids, fungus gnats or whiteflies, setting up a sticky paper trap like the one illustrated can help in detection. A yellow sticky card can trap flies. If you find an infestation early on, more often than not you can manage it without pesticides. That’s good for you and for the environment. Washing the plant will remove small infestations. Use a paper towel to wipe leaves, changing the paper frequently to prevent spread. You can wash small plants in the sink and larger ones in the shower. Be one with your Ficus! You can physically remove many pests. Larger insects such as millipedes, slugs, caterpillars or earwigs can be picked off the plants. Mealybugs can be removed with a forceps (tweezers) or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Those hard little grey scales can be taken off the plant with a fingernail file. Pruning is another option if the critters are isolated on a few leaves, stems or branches. Be aggressive. Most plants will recover remarkably well if relieved of their insect burden and given the right growing environment. If all else fails and the plant looks like a goner, don’t hesitate to toss it. This avoids exposing other plants to the same pest problem, which will save you grief in the long run. Rather than composting the diseased plant, I prefer to wrap it in a Ziplock bag and put it in the trash. To obtain more information about specific pests as well as what to do if non-chemical methods fail to control your problem, check out Prof. Jeffery Hahn’s recommendations on the University of Minnesota Extension website: https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/insects-indoor-plants#using-pesticides-for-pest-management-1580961 Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Columbine or Columbina was an enduring character of Italian commedia del’arte, coquettish, heavily made up, outspoken with almost always something to say. Her botanical namesake, the columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is also an outspoken herald of spring, brightly made up, making a statement in the garden or the wild. The eastern red columbine is native to the entire Midwest. You will find this beauty in rock outcrops, rocky or sandy woodlands as well as savannas. To successfully grow columbine in the garden it is very helpful to provide extra drainage. Usually a rock, gravel or sand underlayment will do the trick although for years my columbines have spread and reseeded in my raised beds with no other preparations. They also look well in rock gardens or other stone or concrete works. Columbines can be a good choice for container gardens as well. It is important to allow for reseeding as individual columbines seldom live more than three years. They do best in full sun although they tolerate light to moderate shade well. Plant height varies from one to four feet, the taller plants often putting on a magnificent display of very showy ruby red flowers. Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis). A somewhat darker bloom Pollination of Columbine is primarily carried out by the ruby-throated hummingbird although an occasional swallowtail butterfly may pitch in. Aquilegia canadensis flowers in the late spring over several weeks. It then produces a fruiting capsule by midsummer which disperses small black seeds before it disintegrates. The compound leaves of the basal portion of the fruiting body remain into the fall, acting as a host for leaf mining moth larvae. You can see the results of the larvae’s feeding as scrolling markings appear on the leaves. As you might anticipate, any plant as showy as the columbine would fall into the hands of the breeder to produce even showier cultivars. A number of very attractive varieties are on the market. Two of my favorites are “Swan Mix” and “Origami Mix”. These are by no means native to anywhere and their value to pollinators is suspect. But as long as you make sure to plant plenty of the native species, I think you can admire the beauty of the cultivars with a clean conscience! Columbine “Swan Mix”, an engaging cultivar Columbine “Origami Mix”, another showy cultivar Photo Credit: Jim Lakin (1,2,3,4)

< Back Get to Know our Minnesota State Bee Susan Light, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that the Minnesota state bee is the rusty patched bumble bee? This designation is intended raise awareness about the role of pollinators in Minnesota’s environment and preserving their habitats. Unfortunately, while historically, our state bee appeared widely in North America, it is now on the endangered list. In this article read more about the rusty patched bumble bee and the important role that you can play in Garden Scavenger Hunt preservation efforts. Our state bee, the rusty patched bumble bee (Bombas affinis) is disappearing just as we are getting to know it. Historically, the rusty patched bumble bee was broadly distributed across the eastern United States and upper midwest, as well as in southern Quebec and Ontario Canada. In 2017 the federal government listed it as endangered because their numbers had dramatically declined. There are still pockets of the rusty patched bee in Minnesota and Wisconsin and a few other states. There have been a good number of them reported by citizen scientists in and around the Twin Cities since they were listed as endangered. August and September is a good time to look for the rusty patched foraging worker bees. The exact cause of the decline is unknown, but evidence suggests an interaction between an introduced pathogen and exposure to pesticides, specifically insecticides and fungicides. Habitat loss and degradation also play an important role. As bumble bee habitats become increasingly fragmented due to urban development, the size of each population diminishes and inbreeding becomes more prevalent. Inbred populations of bumble bees show decreased genetic diversity and increased risk of decline. The rusty patched bumble bee is a social species with an annual cycle that starts in early spring when colonies are initiated by solitary queens that emerge from overwintering sites. The queen bee is the only bee that survives the winter. The cycle progresses with the production of workers throughout the summer, and ends with the production of males and new queens in late summer and early fall. Survival of the rusty patched bee and other bumble bee species require food (pollen and nectar) from abundant floral resources from April through October, undisturbed nesting habitat near floral resources and overwintering habitat for the next year’s queens. Two features distinguish the rusty patched bumble from other bumble bees: The rusty patched has a rust or brown or orange colored patch on the second segment of the abdomen going about halfway back. The hairs on the first segment are yellow. The other segments are covered with black hair. The hairs on the thorax of the rusty patched are yellow with a T-shaped area of black hairs. The rusty patched bumble bee is unique among North American bumble bees in that the queens have a different color pattern than the workers. The queens, which are usually only seen in the spring and fall, do not have a rusty patch or a black thumb-tack on their thorax. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service finalized the recovery plan for the rusty patched bumble bee in 2021. Recovery and conservation of this bumble bee isn’t possible without partners. Municipalities and private property owners play a crucial role in conservation efforts. You can play an important role. Provide habitat - Rusty patched bumble bee nests are typically 1 to 4 feet underground in abandoned rodent nests or other mammal burrows. Leave some small areas in your yard bare for the queen bees to start their nest in the spring. Don’t use pesticides if you want to encourage bumble bees to nest in your yard. Plan your garden to provide a diversity of native plants so you will have flowers that bloom during spring, summer and fall. For example, In the spring, the queen bee emerges to look for nectar and pollen from flowers like virginia bluebells, blood root, wild geraniums, golden alexander and pussy willow. She will search for a nest close to a diversity of food resources. Some summer flowering plants that support rusty patched workers are large beardtongue, slender beardtongue, hyssop, spiderwort, figwort, and butterfly milkweed. In the fall, the star flowers are goldenrods and asters. For more information on this endangered bee and other Minnesota native bees, go to the terrific new website bees mn.org There you will find close up photos of all the MN native bees, to help you ID them in your yard or nearby park. You’ll learn about the flowers they use, their nests, and life cycles. You can also find out how you can be involved in the MN State Bee conservation initiatives. Photo Credits : iNaturalist (1), www.fws.gov (2), University of Minnesota BeeLab (3)

< Back Plants for Winter Interest Marjory Blare, Master Gardener In Minnesota, the winter color palette tends toward white, brown and gray. But we need not think of this landscape as drab or uninteresting. Fill your yard with interesting shrubs and sturdy perennials to enjoy a peacefully pleasing home landscape. Read this article for several plants that liven up a winter landscape. When beautiful white snow blankets everything, it's nice to have plants that provide a contrast to that blanket. Here are several plants that liven up a winter landscape: Red or Yellow Twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea) These extremely hardy native shrubs add bright red or yellow stems to your yard. They can grow 6-8 feet tall and the same in width. They can take full sun to part-shade. They tolerate wet conditions and are deer-resistant. The yellow twig dogwood is a natural variant of the red. To keep the stems bright, prune out the older stems to stimulate new growth. Other common names for this shrub include: Shoemack, Waxberry Cornel, Red-Dosier Cornel, Red Willow, Red Brush, Red Rood, Harts Rouges, Gutter Tree and Dogberry Tree. As a bonus the bright twigs can be cut to add a bright vertical element to winter pots! Mugo pine (Pinus mugo) This densely-needled conifer provides a medium green note to your yard. Various cultivars range from 2-10 feet tall and 2-15' wide. It is tolerant of many soil types, but doesn't like wet feet. It is salt and pollution tolerant, deer-resistant and requires full sun. You may want to prune some of the taller varieties, which involves cutting the new growth back by half. False Cypress 'Golden Mops” (Chamaecyparis) Golden Mops forms a slightly conical mound of scaly, yellow, thread-like leaves. They grow slowly to 3-5 feet tall by 4-6 feet wide. They need full-sun to part-shade, but look greener in shade. They are drought and salt tolerant and can take some browsing by deer and rabbits. They are not too picky about soil, but don't like wet feet. Dark Green Spreader Yew (Taxus x media) This shrub that is a darker green than the Mugo pine. This shrub will easily take light, full-shade. It thrives in all soils as long as they are well-drained. It is deer-resistant. Take note that all parts of it are poisonous. Its red berries are attractive to small children. It can grow up to 10 feet tall and will generally be wider than tall. It doesn't require pruning, but does respond well to it. American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) Here is a conifer with an upright columnar habit. The native plant can reach heights of 30', but there are many cultivars such as 'Hetz Midget', that are only 3-4 feet wide by 4-5 feet tall. In hard winters, deer will forage on arborvitae. Other names for arborvitae include northern white-cedar, eastern white-cedar, and swamp-cedar. There are many other plants that can provide interest: Joe Pye Weed seed heads, tall sedum, seed heads from flowers. Ornamental grasses that provide a creamy, tan color. Look for plants that have interesting shapes, such as Henry Lauder's Walking Stick, with its twisty branches. Then there are interesting barks such as the native small tree, Serviceberry with glossy bark or (taller) river birch with exfoliating bark. Winterberry, hollies, White Baneberry (another native) and some crab-apples all hang onto their fruit into the winter. Winter is a great time to plan for next year's winter interest. Research your plants and be sure to get a soil test before planting! Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Marjory Blare (2, 4, 5), WWW.flickr.com Mark Bolin (3)

< Back Mendota Heights Pollinator Partnership Sarah Heidtke, Sue Light and Cindy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardeners Master Gardeners are working with city government and residents to promote pollinator friendly gardens. Dakota County hosts a unique native garden in the boulevard alongside Victoria Road, between Marie Avenue and Douglas Road in Mendota Heights. Not only is it a beautiful sight to drive, bike or stroll alongside throughout the year, but the garden hosts a number of native pollinators - read on to find out how Mendota Heights staff and Master Gardeners got together with community members in order to create this special place and more! In 2016, the city of Mendota Heights took the admirable step of declaring itself a “pollinator friendly city.” That means that the city is encouraging residents to become more pollinator-friendly by avoiding the use of insecticides and adopting more environmentally friendly landscaping practices; avoiding planting plants that are treated with systemic insecticides; and planting more pollinator-supporting plants. Since then, Dakota County Master Gardeners Sue Light and Cindy Johnson have been working with city staff to identify ways to enhance pollinator habitats. One of their first and most successful projects was the reformation of the Victoria Road boulevard (Victoria Road between Marie Ave. and Douglas Rd. At the time, this area was a ditch filled with rip rap and, unfortunately, a lot of trash. By June of the same year, Sue, Cindy and a team of Dakota County Master Gardeners, seeded grasses and forbs on the Victoria Road boulevard. To be exact, they used Minnesota State Mix 35-621 Dry Prairie SE mix. This selection was based on the soil, water and light conditions. In order to maintain driver visibility, only species under two feet in height were seeded within thirty feet of the corners at each end. Within 2 years, the garden looked like this: Within that time, water retention improved - instead of gushing down the slope over rip rap and into the storm drains, much of the rain water is now slowed and absorbed by the native plants and their deep roots. In fact, rainwater and snowmelt are the only sources of water these plants receive. Every week brings something new to the City Partnership native planting along Victoria Road. Depending on the time of year, the Minnesota native plants you may see include - gorgeous swaths of Little Blue Stem, Wild Petunia, White and Purple Prairie Clover, Monarda, different Milkweeds, Rudbeckia, Goldenrod, Ironweed, Prairie Dropseed and Blue Vervain, to name a few. That “ditch” on Victoria Road has become a native plant treasure. 2024 marks the ninth year of the City Partnership Project. If you pass through in July, you will find Monarda (native Bee Balm) with full lavender colored blooms topping shoulder-high stems, complemented by Asclepias Tuberose (bright orange Butterfly Milkweed). Many insects, including the Rusty Patch Bumblebee and several Black and Gold Bumblebees, are attracted to the pollinator plants in the garden. Even though all of the intentional plants are native to Minnesota, regular management of this garden is done and required. During the growing season, three or four Master Gardeners at a time will weed the roadside twice a month. Weed pressure comes from invasive plants such as Siberian Elm, Crown Vetch, Thistle, Japanese Hedge Parsley and others. Some curious neighbors have come out to help weed and learn more about the plants. Walkers on the path frequently comment on the beauty of the plants as they walk by. Garden management also includes cutting back the vegetation in the spring so the new growth isn’t smothered by the matted plant material from the season before. The City of Mendota Heights and Dakota County Master Gardeners have also partnered to install and maintain the native plantings at City Hall. In addition, they have worked with Mendota Heights residents to install rain gardens. Master Gardeners have also hosted education nights for the public on the value and use of pollinator plants. All of these efforts are intended to improve water quality and welcome pollinators to Mendota Heights. Take the time to visit the extraordinary native garden on Victoria Road and at City Hall. And, keep an eye out for announcements from Dakota County Master Gardeners for public education nights to learn more about this partnership and the plantings. Photo credits: Sue Light (1,2,3,5,7,8), Sarah Heidtke (4,6), Robert Hatlivig (9)

< Back Teaming with Microbes, by Jeff Lowenfels The book, Teaming with Microbes, may leave a reader inspired to learn more and in awe of the world below their feet. If that is the case, Jeff Lowenfels' book may be a good next choice. Reviewed by Stacy Reeves Teaming with Microbes by Jeff Lowenfels was recommended to me upon the purchase of my first worm bin. As I took a dive into the world of vermicomposting (or perhaps I should say tunneled into), Lowenfels' book was just the ticket to increase my passion for caring for these invertebrates. Though it's not an instructional on the do's and don'ts of worm bedding, food and breeding, it does highlight the many benefits worms and other soil life contribute to a gardener's goals. Lowenfels' book is a wealth of information concerning the soil food web. It contains 24 chapters reviewing the complex relationships of anything from bacteria to mammals to trees. If a gardener is interested in soil health, organic gardening, or maximizing nature's processes, Teaming with Microbes is a great read. Lowenfels highlights how slime, wastes, exudates, and tunnels work together to create soil that is not only rich in nutrients but, more specifically, rich in nutrients that have been transformed and unlocked in such a way to be readily available for plant use. The book would be worth a second read or to be used as a reference for gardeners working to "team" as effectively as possible with their garden soil's inhabitants and systems. The overarching lesson of the book is that it's far better to encourage nature's systems than to override them and therefore, Lowenfels speaks against chemical treatments. He highlights the symbiotic, complex and dynamic relationships that exist best with all the "good guys and bad guys" at play.