< Back Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses from your garden fruits and vegetables. With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses with your garden fruits and vegetables. Why Safety Tips are Needed Foodborne illness caused by the naturally occurring bacteria, viruses, molds and/or pathogens found on raw produce not carefully washed or prepared can make you sick. (Note: These microorganisms are present in your garden whether you choose to use organic or conventional gardening methods). Additionally, it is also possible to get sick from contamination of produce from chemicals, such as cleaning solutions, fertilizers, pesticides, and heavy metals (lead) and other chemicals that may be found in garden soil or well water. Safely Growing and Harvesting Produce in Your Garden Site Preparation Locate your produce gardens away from manure piles, well caps, garbage cans, septic systems and areas where wildlife or the family pets roam. Use compost safely. Compost is the natural breakdown of organic materials, and also a source of pathogens. To be safe for gardening, your compost must reach a temperature of at least 130°F. Check the temperature with a compost thermometer. Do not use any animal waste, including pet waste, meat scraps or dairy product waste, in your compost bin. Garden Maintenance Use a safe water source, such as from municipal or public water systems. Avoid lakes, streams, ponds and streams as a water source, where they can be polluted by human sewage or animal waste, fertilizers and pesticides from lawns and farm fields, or chemicals from industry. Ground water, the source for well water, is less likely to have microbial contaminants, but test your well water yearly to ensure it is safe. Curtail animals and birds near your vegetation during the gardening season, by keeping pets away, minimizing vegetation at the edges to decrease nesting and hiding places for rats and mice, and stopping feeding of wild animals and birds near your produce garden. Discourage your backyard critters with the use of fencing and noise deterrents. Harvesting Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to set your harvest in. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade. Use clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) when picking produce. Do not harvest when you are sick or have symptoms of an illness. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing produce into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce, and discard the produce that is close to these signs, or that has visible animal feces on it. Storage If you choose to wash fruits and vegetables before storing, be sure to dry them thoroughly with a clean paper towel. (Never wash berries until you are ready to eat them.) If you choose to store without washing, shake, rub or brush off any garden dirt with a paper towel or soft brush while still outside. Store unwashed produce in plastic bags or containers. Keep fruit and vegetable bins clean. When washing produce fresh from the warm outdoors, the rinse water should not be more than 10 degrees colder than the produce. If you are washing refrigerated produce, use cold water. Fruits and vegetables needing refrigeration can be stored at 40° F or less. Fruits and vegetables stored at room temperature (onions, potatoes, tomatoes) should be in a cool, dry, pest-free, well-ventilated area separate from household chemicals. Canning and Preserving: Follow the USDA guidelines and jar instructions for safe canning: https://nchfp.uga.edu Serving Always wash your hands before serving. Always wash your produce before eating. Rinse fresh fruits and vegetables under cool, running, clean water, even if you do not plan to eat the skin or rind. Never use soap, detergent, or bleach solution to wash fresh fruits or vegetables. These solutions can affect flavor and may not be safe to ingest. Most root vegetables will need to be washed (before going into the kitchen) to remove sand and soil. Use a clean bucket or spray table outside to spray or dunk the produce to remove soil. Avoid bringing the produce into your home kitchen before using, as there is more potential for cross-contamination. Avoid cross-contamination when preparing fruits and vegetables, which occurs when a clean work surface, such as a cutting board or utensil (paring knife) or uncontaminated food is contaminated by dirty work surfaces, utensils, hands or food. If you have leftover produce that has been cut, sliced, or cooked, store it in clean, air-tight containers in the refrigerator at 40°F or less. Fresh, home-grown vegetables and fruit can be a delicious pleasure. Follow these simple rules to make sure they are also safe for you and your family to enjoy. Sources: https://extension.umaine.edu/gardening/manual/five-steps-food-safe-fruit-vegetable-gardening/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/harvest-your-garden-produce-safely Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans): A High Note on Any Trellis Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you looking for a beautiful, native vine for a sunny fence or pergola in your yard? Consider the glorious Trumpet Vine. This article reveals the many reasons why Trumpet Vine may be a delightful and pollinator-friendly addition to your garden. A garden fence, an isolated trellis, these are structures crying out for a luxurious vine to twine upon. One elegant choice is the Trumpet Vine. It initially grew in the southern Midwest but has adapted and naturalized northward to southern and central Minnesota, where, in the right conditions, can do very well indeed. It generally is hardy to -25 0 F. So, if you are planting Up North, a little winter mulching is a good idea. In the lower Midwest its growth can be vigorous. It climbs by rootlets that form along its stems and trunk. Trumpet vine can root at any spot its stems touch the ground. It also spreads by underground rhizomes. Here in the colder north, this proclivity usually is lessened unless in an exceptionally favorable site. Yet be aware of its rambunctious nature. summer trumpet vine blooms When planting trumpet vine, full sun is a necessity for flowering. Usually, 8 to 10 hours of sun is necessary to coax blooming. We have some planted to the north of the house and it gets at most 5 to 6 hours of direct sun. Growth has been less than impressive. Soil usually is not a major consideration, although ironically, if the soil is too rich it may not bloom. Instead, the plant converts nitrogen into leaves, not flowers. When fertilizing, use low or no nitrogen, emphasizing phosphorous to encourage blooming. Consider bone meal as a great source of slow-release phosphorus. Another reason for not blooming is immaturity. Trumpet vine takes several years to flower, especially if grown from seed. So, be patient. Speaking of patience, recall the old adage, applicable to so many perennials, that they “sleep, creep and leap”. You can count on this with trumpet vine. So be cautious when siting the vine. It can be spectacular growing up a tree, post or fence but it is vigorous. Planting it next to the house can lead to disaster as it can ruin siding and invade the foundation. foliage can be quite luxurious Trumpet vine flowers are spectacular orange to yellow to occasionally red. The blooming season can extend through most of the summer. They are visited and pollinated by hummingbirds in the day and sphinx moths in the night. As you might imagine, with such a vigorous grower, the foliage is lush. So, if you are looking for a sunny summer focal point in your garden landscape, trumpet vine would be an excellent choice. Photo Credit: iNaturalist, Gary W. House (1), Publicdomainpictures.net (2)

< Back What Can Alliums Do For Your Garden? As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. In this article, Marjory Blare explains why you should consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You may be familiar with varieties of allium used for cooking (for example, onion, garlic, scallion). But there are many ornamental alliums with many different features and colors. Read this article to learn more about the virtues of alliums. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. You might consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You’ll be surprised at the range and variety of these members of the onion family. Alliums are plants that are in the onion family. Included in that family are the cultivated onion , garlic , scallion , shallot , leek , and chives . But, in addition to these tasty varieties there are many ornamental alliums. Alliums are a valuable addition to any garden because they are attractive to pollinators and they are close to pest-free. Rabbits, squirrels and deer don’t like them. They occasionally get downy mildew and allium leaf miners, but that’s about it for disease problems. Alliums are drought, heat and cold tolerant. They do need well-drained soil because if they sit in soggy soil, they will rot. They need full to part sun, and aren’t too picky about pH, although slightly acid is preferable. Some varieties are hardy to USDA zone 3! Various species can bloom every season except winter. You’ll find many varieties in on-line catalogs. For more about growing Alliums look at this article in The Spruce. Allium foliage will yellow and die, (sometimes before the blossoms are done), but you can plant them in a ground cover or among Hostas to hide them. Plant bulbous varieties in the fall, the shallow-rooted varieties such as chives (A. schoenoprasum) can be divided any time. Plant Alliums as surprise ‘pops’ of color throughout the garden, or in rows for a formal effect. Alliums grow well in container gardens – plant them in the fall, leave them out all winter, and they grow in the spring! Unlike some perennials, most Allium will bloom the first year. When planting, don’t let the bulbs touch each other. Plant at a depth that is three times the diameter of the bulb, and a bit of bone meal in the planting hole helps. Leaves of Allium can range from slender round blades to broad and flat, and they can be green to blue-green. Flowers range in color from yellow (A. moly) and white (A. karativiense ‘Ivory Queen’ which has broad flat blue green leaves) and on through the spectrum of pink to deep violet. There is even a blue one (A. caeruleum). The shapes of the flowers can be ball-shaped ( Allium aflatunense ), or egg-shaped (A. sphaerocephalon), nodding (A. cernum), or a display that looks like fireworks (A. schubertii)! Sizes range from the inches-tall fairy/alpine-garden sized (A. oreophilum), all the way up to the giant ‘Globe Master’ (A. giganteum) which can get up to 4 feet tall! In addition to all of the above, there are many Alliums native to Minnesota: 1) A. canadense (Wild Garlic, Meadow Garlic) 2) A. cernum (Nodding Wild Onion) 3) A. schoenprasum (Chinese chives) 4) A. stellatum (Wild Prairie Onion) 5) A. textile (White Wild Onion) 6) A. tricoccum (Wild Leek, aka Ramps or Three Seeded Leek) 7) A. tubersoum (Garlic Chives) 8) A. ursinum (Bear Garlic) Allium have many virtues, interesting traits and colors; play around with them when you design or update your garden. Have Fun! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1, 2, 3), Dreamstime (4)

< Back Picking the Perfect Jack-O-Lantern Pumpkin Linda Stein, Master Gardener Picking out and carving pumpkins is a favorite family activity in October. Read on for tips about how to choose and carve your pumpkins and what to do with all those seeds. As October arrives, many children and their families are thinking about Halloween. If your family is like mine, pumpkin carving is an essential part of that event. You can be overwhelmed looking at the vats full of pumpkins at the grocery store or the rows and rows of pumpkins in your nearby pumpkin patch. So , when should you pick your pumpkin and what should you look for in the myriad of options? Pumpkins generally last 8 to 12 weeks after they are picked. However, they will start to wilt within 5 to 10 days after they are hollowed out and carved. So , plan accordingly. How to Pick the Perfect Pumpkin Cooking vs carving - Pumpkins used for cooking or for pie making look similar to those chosen to carve into Jack-O-Lanterns. However, there are differences. These pumpkins are referred to as pie pumpkins or sugar pumpkins. They are generally smaller, denser and darker in color. Their flesh is less stringy and sweeter. Larger pumpkins used for carving or decorating are generally known as field pumpkins and besides being larger in size, also have a watery, stringy flesh which doesn’t work as well for cooking. What to look for in a carving pumpkin 1. Color- Color is not an indication of quality of pumpkin. However, you should avoid a pumpkin with blemishes, cracks, splits or soft spots. 2. Stem - Make sure your pumpkin has at least a 1-2 inch stem. If the stem is cut down too low the pumpkin will decay quickly or may already be decaying. And make sure the stem is firm and bright colored. If not the pumpkin might have been picked and stored for an extended period of time. Since it is important to retain the stem, make sure that you don’t risk breaking it off by carrying the pumpkin by the stem. 3. Scratch test - Test for the maturity of a pumpkin by gently pressing your fingernail into the rind. A mature pumpkin will resist scratching. If the surface is easily penetrated, the pumpkin was picked too early and will end up rotting. 4. Poke test - Gently squeeze or press your fingers into the fruit. Pay close attention to the blossom end, or bottom, and around the stem. A fresh pumpkin should be solid to the touch. 5. Tap Test - Your pumpkin should sound slightly hollow when tapped gently. 6. Weight - You want to pick a pumpkin that is heavy. However, a very heavy pumpkin may indicate thicker walls which will be more difficult to carve. Carving Since the pumpkin will start to wilt in about 5 to 10 days, think about carving your pumpkin upside down by hollowing it out from the bottom. That way as the pumpkin begins to wilt, the flesh won’t sink in from the top. If the walls are so thick that they are difficult to carve, you can shave the walls on the inside. Storing Your Jack-O-Lantern should be stored in cooler conditions but avoid frost. Some sources recommend wiping the fruit off with a solution of bleach water to reduce rot and decay. What About Those Seeds? Another family tradition is roasting the seeds collected from the inside of the pumpkin you’re carving. Pumpkin seeds are an excellent source of protein, unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants, dietary fiber, magnesium and Vitamin K. But beware, they are also high in calories. In addition to enjoying them as a snack, WebMD also suggests the following uses: • Add them to smoothies • Mix them into granola, yogurt, or cereal • Use them to add some extra crunch to a salad • Garnish any meal, like soups, chicken dishes, or pastas • Blend them with other ingredients in a dip like hummus, pesto, or guacamole • Bake them into cookies and breads Happy picking, carving and Halloween! References https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/vegetables/how-to-pick-the-perfect-pumpkin.html https://extension.umn.edu/news/scoop-pumpkins-5-fun-fall-facts https://blogs.extension.iastate.edu/answerline/2018/10/04/pick-the-best-pumpkin/ https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-pumpkin-seeds Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Sarah Heidtke (2, 3)

< Back Are You Contributing to the Illegal Succulent Trade? Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Succulents, particularly rare or unusual succulents, have become very popular. Easy online succulent sales boomed during the Covid-19 pandemic. Unfortunately, the demand for rare and unique plants plus the ease of being able to buy and sell plants online has contributed to the illegal succulent trade business. This, in turn, has created a nightmare for plant conservationists, particularly in South Africa, where illegal plant harvesting is disrupting the ecosystem. This article is intended to bring awareness to this problem and to suggest how you can avoid being part of the problem. The demand for rare and unique plants plus the ease of being able to buy and sell plants online has contributed to the illegal succulent trade business. This, in turn, has created a nightmare for plant conservationists, particularly in South Africa. This article is intended to bring awareness to this problem and to suggest how you can avoid being part of the problem. the plant on the left, Lithops Olivaceae, is threatened by trade Succulents have become very popular and online succulent sales boomed during the Covid-19 pandemic. But not all plants are grown equally or harvested legally. Many are illegally harvested from South Africa. According to traffic.org , over 1.6 million plants from 650+ species were illegally harvested between 2019 to May of 2024. TRAFFIC is a non-governmental organization working with the South African government and botanical gardens to ensure that trade in wild species is legal and sustainable. Single confiscations included 60,000 individual plants and researchers believe whole species are extinct in the wild because of one harvesting event. Succulents evolved to survive the harsh arid climate of South Africa and some animals depend on these water storing plants during dry spells. Many of the succulents in South Africa’s ‘Succulent Karoo Biome’ are endemic to the area and found nowhere else in the world. The Succulent Karoo is a nearly 45,000 square mile biodiverse, arid region spanning South Africa's Atlantic coast into Namibia. It hosts the planet's richest succulent flora—nearly 40% of the world’s succulent species—with 40% endemic to the region. Aloe Striata-plant of the Succulent Karoo How would you know if you were contributing to the shady business of succulent poaching? Ask yourself these questions about plants you are about to purchase online: Tips to tell if a succulent was propagated and grown in a nursery or sourced from the wild. More likely to be propagated and grown in a nursery Signs it may have been sourced from the wild Appearance Neat and tidy. Irregular. Like they’ve seen some things (hungry herbivores, fires, being stepped on, a rough harvesting and transport). Form Upright like it was growing towards an artificial light. Warped form potentially from winding around a rock or another plant to access sunlight. For species that only bloom once No seed pods or flowers present Seed pods or flowers present Size (for a species that takes a long time to mature) Smaller Large Roots Uncut and in the shape of the pot it was planted in. Cut from whatever the plant was growing on or around. Info Seller has paperwork from a mother stock with legal permits and/or can tell you when a succulent was planted. No additional information or paperwork upon request. Seller A large, known, certified dealer. Unknown individual Is the species you are buying protected? Always check with local and national laws to determine if it’s legal to possess your plant or move it across borders. Buying locally helps avoid issues with CITES (Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species) permits and reputable sellers should be able to provide you with proof of permitting. You can put the plant name into the IUCN Red List Portal to check to see if it is a succulent being threatened by trade. If it is and you can’t verify it was propagated sustainably, do not purchase it! Criminal networks used to traffic plants are often involved with other illegal activities. It would be best to buy from a seller with a legitimate certification from Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network , Fairtrade Flowers and Plants , or FairWild . If you do think that a plant you found online has been harvested illegally, report it to the ecommerce platform it was listed on. Etsy, Ebay and other sites are partnering with the Coalition to end Wildlife Trafficking online to prevent the sale of illegally obtained plants. It pays to ask questions first. If a plant you bought online ends up being confiscated you could be the one that ends up in big trouble! Succulents are fascinating plants and it is fun to acquire unusual and exotic plants. But, we all have a responsibility ensure that our purchases are legal not interfering with the ecosystem of the planet. Resources https://www.traffic.org/news/are-your-houseplants-fuelling-extinction-south-africas-rare-succulents-face-silent-crisis/ https://www.traffic.org/publications/reports/a-succulent-trade/ https://www.traffic.org/site/assets/files/26240/succulents_report.pdf https://www.sanbi.org/media/sas-succulent-plants-experience-unprecedented-rates-of-decline/ Succulent Karoo , Wikipedia Photo Credit: Kristin van Shie, TRAFFIC (1), Wikipedia, Dwergenenpaartje (2)

< Back African Violets Julie Harris, Master Gardener African Violets are one of the most popular houseplants because they require little maintenance and, cared for properly, bloom several times a year. But, as with any plant, they do have specific needs that you must know and pay attention to in order to provide the color and pleasure that you are hoping for. Read this article to understand how to achieve a happy, healthy African Violet in your home. African Violets are a popular houseplant because they are low maintenance and if cared for properly, will bloom several times a year. African Violets ( Saintpaulia ionantha ) were discovered in the 1890s by Baron Walter von Saint Paul in Tanzania. Ionantha refers to the violet color of the flowers, although many hybrids and varieties are now available, including different flower colors. Today, you can find African Violets that are white, pink, maroon, blue, lavender, violet, and deep purple. African Violets can be found in different sizes ranging from 4 to 8 to 16 inches wide to more than 16 inches wide. They have a mounded or round form. Different varieties may have different flower and leaf shapes. The flowers may be single, semi-double, double, ruffled or star shaped. Leaves may be round, heart-shaped or oval and have a fuzzy, velvety texture. African Violets should be planted in containers no more than one-third the width of the plant’s leaf span. They have fine roots and require well-drained soilless potting mix with a pH of about 6.2 – 6.5. Plant containers should have at least one hole in the bottom to allow water to drain. They should be repotted in fresh potting mix once a year. Fertilize the plant each time you water them. Use one-quarter of the recommended amount of fertilizer to keep the roots from being damaged. Fertilizers specially formulated for African Violets can be purchased. In their natural habitat, African Violets received filtered light from the forest canopy. In your house, they need 10 – 16 hours of light and 8 – 10 hours of darkness to flower. They will grow best in a bright, north-oriented exposure; although in the winter months, they may prefer a southern exposure. Fluorescent or LED grow lights can also be used. If your plant has dark, healthy leaves but no blooms, try increasing the light. Conversely, if your plant is not blooming and has pale leaves, reduce the light. As for temperature – if you are comfortable, your African Violet is comfortable. They like 40 – 60% humidity. Grouping plants together is helpful or they can be set on trays of pebbles and water. An even temperature should be maintained and they do not like drafts. Water with room-temperature distilled water or rain water. The potting mix should be moist at all times but not soggy. Overwatering is a common reason that African Violets do not survive. Water just the potting mix as water may cause leaf spots. Do not mist the foliage as it, too, may cause leaf spotting. African Violets can be watered from above but it is not recommended as the plant is susceptible to crown rot. You can also set the pot in a bowl of room-temperature water, 1 – inch deep. When the soil surface feels moist, remove the plant from the water and allow the water to drain from the pot. Do not let the pot sit in water for more than 30 minutes. You can also use a wicking system (see references below) or use self-watering pots. Common problems and solutions: Leaves are long and narrow Not enough light; temperature is too cool Leaves are pale Too much light Plant is limp and wilted Over watering; poor drainage If roots are mushy, brown and slimy, the plant is not likely to survive Leaf spots Water left on leaves Pale leaves, lack of growth Nutrient deficiency, not fertilized regularly Tight plant centers, rusty-colored leaves Over fertilization African Violets can provide many years of pleasure in your house if you follow these fairly straightforward rules for nurturing them. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Cover Crops Cover crops? What are they and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. Dig into this article to learn more about why and how to incorporate cover crops in your garden. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener What is a cover crop and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. They can be considered a living mulch because of their thick growth. Other benefits of growing cover crops include reducing erosion, maintaining soil structure, and managing weeds. As a ‘green manure’, cover crops serve to provide organic matter and nutrients back into the soil. Cover crops can support a wide range of soil microorganisms and importantly, given the drought conditions of the past few years, they help the soil retain water. Cover crops can be legumes such as vetch, clover, beans, and peas; grasses/cereals such as annual ryegrass, oats, rapeseed, winter wheat, and winter rye; and buckwheat. Selection will depend upon when you are planting your cover crop, where the cover crop will be planted in your garden, and your purpose in planting, e.g., add nitrogen, suppress weeds. The UMN Extension website provides numerous resources to help you make the best selection for your garden (see references at the end of this article). There is also a comparison guide of different cover crop options and information on seeding rates, ( Comparisons and Planting Rates ). Figure 1 below provides a snapshot of the table that can help you make the best selection, with planting times. Figure 1: Planting timing and seeding rate When selecting which cover crop to grow, you also may want to consider a few key factors. If you choose a cover crop that dies over the winter, it will be easy to work into the soil in the spring. If you select a plant that will survive Minnesota’s winters, you will need to have a way to kill the plant and then work it into the soil. You will also want to carefully consider the various benefits to growing a cover crop and determine which ones are of greatest importance. Some cover crops provide pollinators with food, help prevent weeds from growing, prevent erosion, or add nitrogen. Figure 2: Selecting cover crops based on effectiveness of providing various benefits When to plant cover crops is the next major decision. In Minnesota, our growing areas often sit empty after the harvest has occurred. Cover crops can be sown in early spring as a cool season crop in an area where you might plant tomatoes or pumpkins, which need warmer soil and temperatures to grow. If you grow cool season vegetables like lettuce or spinach, you could grow a cover crop during the summer months when it is too hot for these plants. Cover crops can also be grown in late summer after harvesting early vegetables that might be done by August. Late Fall before freezes occur is another option, once all the vegetables beds have been emptied. Figure 3, from the University of Minnesota Extension ( Cover crop selection for vegetable growers ), outlines these plant timing options, accompanied by illustrations of vegetables that might be grown before or after planting a cover crop. Please note the timing in the graph is approximate. You can find seeds for cover crops at garden stores, farm stores, and vegetable seed catalogs. To derive the full benefit, you will usually want to plant your cover crops densely, unlike the usual vegetable garden practices of spacing seeds. You will want to fertilize and water your cover crop to encourage a thick growth of biomass. You then work this back into the soil, adding organic matter. References Cover Crops and green manures in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/cover-crops-and-green-manures Cover crop selection for vegetable growers https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Cover crops improve soil health, even on a small scale https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/cover-crops-improve-soil-health-even-small-scale Cover crop comparisons and planting rates https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops/cover-crop-options#cover-crop-guides-and-resources-2174260 PHoto credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Cooking with Native Plants Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. This time of year, Master Gardener Joy Johnson thought you might enjoy trying some recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures – Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding, Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin, pumpkin seeds. Yum! It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. I thought you would enjoy trying a couple of recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures. Several Native American cultures consider wild rice to be a sacred component in their culture. The rice is harvested with a canoe: one person “knocks” rice into the canoe with two small poles (called “knockers” or “flails”) while the other paddles slowly or uses a push pole. For these groups, this harvest is an important cultural (and often economic) event. Commercial cultivation began in the late 1900’s in California and Minnesota. Wild rice has a delicious nutty, hearty flavor and a chewy texture. Today it is mainly cultivated in paddy fields, although I’ve seen traditional harvesting areas in northern Minnesota. Wild rice is primarily a source of carbohydrates and contains a moderately high amount of fiber. It also contains a variety of vitamins (Folate, B2 and B6 are the top 3) and minerals (Copper, Zinc and Magnesium are the top 3). Compared to white rice, wild rice is lower in calories, higher in fiber, sugars, fat and protein as well as Omega-3 and Omega-6. [insert photo 1] Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding Ingredients : Wild Rice part: 4 cups water 1 cup Chippewa wild rice 1 tsp salt ½ tsp vanilla extract Blueberry Mixture: 1 cup blueberries, dried 2 qts Milk 2 Tbsp vanilla extract 16 eggs warmed to room temperature 2 cups sugar Dash freshly grated nutmeg, to taste Instructions for the Wild Rice part : Wash the Chippewa wild rice Put the water, wild rice, vanilla, and salt in a two-quart saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the mixture for 45-60 minutes. Simmer with the cover on and stop when you notice the rice is puffy and the liquid has been completely absorbed. Fluff the rice with a fork and continue cooking with the lid off until any excess liquid evaporates. Set aside. Instructions for the Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding : Oil a large baking pan (13” x 9”) Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Prepare blueberries by pouring enough boiling water over them to cover them and let them soak for five minutes. Place the cooked wild rice and blueberries in the oiled baking pan. Heat the milk and vanilla extract in a saucepan over medium heat, until the milk is scalded. Mix the eggs and sugar in a separate bowl at high speed until the mixture is foamy. Whisk the scalded milk into the eggs until thoroughly blended. Pour the mixture on top of the rice and blueberries and stir it very carefully just until blended. Top with nutmeg as desired. Place it in the oven and bake it for 1 ¼ hours, or until edges are golden brown. Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin Pumpkins are actually considered a fruit, not a vegetable, and belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes cucumbers, melons, squash, and gourds. They did not always appear as they appear today. They resembled something like the Crooked-neck squash of today. Native Americans called pumpkins “isqoutm squash” and used them as a staple in their diets centuries before the Pilgrims landed. A non-food use was drying strips of pumpkin, pounding it flat, then weaving it into mats. They would roast long strips of pumpkin and seeds on the open fire, or it could be boiled, baked and eaten. It could be easily stored and dried for extended use through the long winters. Pumpkins were used to feed livestock and still are. When my family lived on the farm, every November we would haul our trailer to the pumpkin farm down the road and load up all their unsold, old, damaged pumpkins and feed them to our pigs. That pork was tender, delicious and low fat with a slight hint of pumpkin flavor. Ingredients: 1 small pumpkin (use a pie pumpkin, like Baby Bear, Cinderella or Dickenson; this is the pumpkin that Libby uses for its canned pumpkin) ¼ cup maple syrup ¼ cup apple cider ¼ cup butter, melted Instructions for the Pumpkin : Preheat oven to 350 degrees Place whole pumpkin in oven for 1 ½ to 2 hours Remove pumpkin from oven Keep the oven on and maintain 350-degree temperature. Cut a hole in the top and remove it Scoop out the seeds Set seeds aside for later eating Scoop out the pulp into a large bowl Add the maple syrup and apple cider to the pulp, mix well Pour back into pumpkin shell Bake for 35-40 minutes Cut into wedges and serve Instructions for the pumpkin seeds : Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Wash the seeds well Spread evenly, without layering them, onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt Back, checking often until seeds are dried Remove from oven and serve Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back Don’t Overlook These Early Spring Native Perennials Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener When we think of early spring plants in Minnesota, we generally envision bulb plants, such as tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinths or allium. But don’t overlook the many beautiful native wildflowers that also bloom in early spring. This article will feature six of these plants. They may deserve a place in your garden or look for them as you stroll through local parks or public gardens. When we think of early spring plants in Minnesota, we generally envision bulb plants, such as tulips, daffodils, crocus, hyacinths or allium. But don’t overlook the many beautiful native wildflowers that also bloom in early spring. This article will feature six of these plants. They may deserve a place in your garden or look for them as you stroll through local parks or public gardens. Snow Trillium (Trillium nivale) Snow Trillium Snow Trillium, a Minnesota native, is one of the first wildflowers to bloom in the spring, often appearing while snow is still on the ground. It has delicate white three-part petals about an inch across. The plant is only about 4 inches tall. Snow Trillium grows best in well drained soil and light shade. Pasque Flower (Anemone patens) Pasque flower Pasque Flower is commonly found in prairies or along hiking trails. Often one of the first perennials to bloom, it has 1 ½ inch, soft, lavender to white petals and fuzzy stems. The leaves form a mound 10-12 inches tall. Pasque Flower grows in well-drained soil and full sun. The plant remains attractive throughout the summer. All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested but still it has been used medicinally. Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) Bloodroot “Who does not know the bloodroots – babes in the wood – each closely wrapped in the swaddling blanket of a quaintly fashioned grayish-green leaf?” Eloise Butler , 1911. Bloodroot blooms in March and April and dies back in early summer. It has white petals around golden centers and stands 3 - 8 inches tall. There are 6 – 12 petals which reach a total width of 1 – 2 1/3 inches. Its odd name comes from the red sap in its roots and stems. Bloodroot is found in woodlands with moist to dry soil and spreads from rhizomes. Bloodroot needs sunlight before the tree canopy leafs out but then requires shade. All parts of the plant are poisonous in large quantities but it has an extensive history of medicinal use. Skunk Cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus) Skunk Cabbage emerges early in the season, generating its own heat to melt the snow surrounding it. It isn’t a particularly showy plant and does emit an unpleasant scent when crushed but its reddish-purple flowers are an important supporter of early-season pollinators. The heat that it generates helps to attract pollinators. The plant will grow 2 – 3 feet in height with the curled-cabbage-like-leaves appearing after the flower emerges. It can be found in bogs and stream edges. Hepatica (Hepatica nobilis) Hepatica Hepatica, is a lovely early spring perennial with star-shaped flowers in shades of blue, purple and white. The flowers are ½ - 1 inch wide and the plant grows about 12” high. The leaves are evergreen, turning to a purple color in the fall. It is often found in wooded areas alongside Bloodroot. Hepatica is in the buttercup family and goes by the common name “liverleaf” or “liverwort.” The common name comes from the leaves’ resemblance to the human liver. The leaves can be poisonous if ingested and do not appear to have any medicinal value. Many pollinators are attracted to Hepatica during their month-long blooming period. Dutchman’s Breeches (Dicentra cucullaria) Dutchman's Breeches flowers Dutchman’s Breeches is named for its white, pant-shaped flowers that dangle upside down over dainty leaves. They bloom in March and April and are a favorite of early-season pollinators. The plant grows 4 – 12 inches tall. The flowers have pale red to yellowish stalks, white with yellow or pink-tinged centers about ¾ inches long. The yellow-green or grayish-green leaves have a sharp point and die back in mid-summer. Dutchman’s Breeches prefer dappled sunlight in rich soils under a tall tree canopy. The plant may be harmful if ingested and can cause dermatitis in sensitive people. However, parts of the plant have been used to treat skin diseases. If you do not have these lovely early perennials in your yard, you can find many of them in parks and nature areas around the twin cities. Of course, the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden in Hennepin County has been host to nearly all of these wildflowers for decades. So, look forward to taking a walk in nature within the next few weeks and look for these native beauties. Reference: https://mplsparksfoundation.org/early-spring-blooms-7-plants-to-spot-in-minneapolis-parks/ https://friendsofeloisebutler.org/pages/seasonal/mcearlyspring.html www.hort.extension.wisc.edu Photo Credit: G.D. Bebeau; www.friendsofeloisebutler.org (1,2,3,4,6) University of Wisconsin Extension (5)

< Back Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricate): A Big Punch in a Little Packet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener It’s that beautiful carpet of pastels appearing in moist woodlands across the Midwest in the spring – Woodland Phlox. Otherwise known as “Sweet William,” this native plant has many reasons to be at home in your garden. Read more about the virtues of Woodland Phlox and then decide if you will grow it from seed or as an established plant. Not only will you enjoy this plant but pollinators love it as well. The Phlox family (Polimoniaceae), tend to be a diminutive bunch, with delicate spring blooms. Their delicacy is both charming and deceptive as they are a persistent bunch that will form a lovely groundcover if left to their own devices. This is certainly true of woodland phlox which is found across the entire Midwest although more prevalent in the northwest, inclusive of the deciduous forests of Minnesota. There it can carpet the ground, blooming from mid to late spring. You will find it most profusely in a mesic forest, that is, one in which an ample supply of moisture is found throughout the growing season. It will however grow in most woodlands as long as there is moisture during its blooming season in spring. Ironically, woodland phlox is very summer drought resistant. Thus, it is hardy across the Midwest from Zones 3 through 8. Woodland phlox readily grows from seed and will self-sow quite vigorously. This is an important characteristic, as the individual plant is fairly short-lived for a perennial at 3 to 5 years. As you might imagine, it is a shade-loving plant but will tolerate part sun. As it blooms in the spring, the light blue flowers exude its delicate perfume earning its other name of ‘Sweet William.’ Woodland phlox in bloom in a mesic forest Woodland phlox combines quite well with a variety of other woodland, shade-loving plants. It fits in nicely with other later-blooming groundcovers or larger shade perennials. The springtime stalks rarely exceed 18 inches and quickly disintegrate after blooming. Since the foliage often disappears after blooming, it does not make a good stand-alone ground cover and should be integrated with other species. Unfortunately, the bunnies love woodland phlox so it’s best to protect new plantings until a bigger colony is established. As is the case with so many native perennials, woodland phlox is pollinator friendly and attracts bumblebees, sphinx moths, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you are thinking about installing a pollinator lawn, woodland phlox can be integrated into the shady parts quite easily. Woodland phlox blooms range in color from white to soft blue. Occasionally you will find some rosy to purplish flowers. Since these folks do self-seed, the color of various strains will modulate from generation to generation. Yet the perfume of springtime ‘Sweet William’ is ethereal no matter the hue. Woodland phlox blooms may assume a variety of colors Photo Credit: University of Wisconsin Extension (1,2)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 3 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the third in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. In this installment, Brenda talks about planting and lessons learned. (This is the third in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, planting and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) Planting Day It’s finally time to plant! My plants are available to pick up on Friday, June 17, 2022. And you know what they say, about the best laid plans . . . I get my plants home and realize that a full 20% are not what I originally ordered! I knew that there was a possibility for substitutions when ordering kits but I wasn’t expecting this many. I do some quick research on the replacement plants and make some changes to the planting plan. As luck would have it, it’s going to be in the upper 80’s on Saturday and in the mid 90’s on Sunday. A great weekend to plant the 180 plants ordered - not really, but we will make it work. I’ve enlisted my brother and my sister-in-law to help install the pollinator garden on Saturday. Up until this point, the most beneficial tool in the pollinator garden had been the chainsaw I used to clear unwanted trees and shrubs. On planting day, the most beneficial tool is the drill auger attachment used to “dig” 180 planting holes. We finish planting a full hour earlier than anticipated and it looks great! Time to get some water on this new garden. Care for the new garden is pretty basic – water and weed. The new plants need an inch of water a week Ito help them get established. Removing weeds reduces competition for soil nutrients, water and sunlight. I was pleasantly surprised to see seven varieties of plants bloom their first season! And yes, I even saw some pollinators in the garden. Lessons Learned What I would do differently Plan for wildlife - I lost 8 plants, not a lot but enough Look for deer and rabbit resistant plants when purchasing plants and/or Protect new plants from wildlife Start planning earlier Identify the physical garden area earlier that way plants can be ordered before some sell out Manage my expectations, with the part sun/part shade conditions, my plants are healthy but growing slower than they would in full sun What I would do again Plant a pollinator garden Order plant kits for a first-time pollinator garden Work with the Lawns to Legumes program or consider a similar program Recruit or accept offers to help plant the garden Use the chainsaw and drill auger attachment First time events for 2023 Clean up the pollinator garden in the spring - leaving the garden standing protects any overwintering pollinators Leave beds of leaves, twigs and other “messy” areas near the pollinator garden to encourage pollinators to both overwinter and make their homes near this food source Evaluate how plants are doing in their current location, move plants that are struggling Replace plants that have died or were damaged Select replacement plants on my own vs. using a plant kit Calling all pollinators! The garden should be bigger and better than last year. Photo Credit: Brenda Scheer (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Have a Sunny Garden? Try These Perennials Kristina Valle, Dakota County Master Gardener Do you have an area of your garden that receives 6 to 8 hours of sun each day? If so, you will want to plant “sun perennials” in that space. Perennials that prefer a sunny location should thrive in your yard, assuming, of course, that you provide them with healthy soil, ample water, and some tender loving care. Read this article for profiles of “sun perennials” for every season between the frost dates. Calling all sun worshipers! Since I have a north facing house position, my front yard is mostly shady. Most of the plant color in my yard is found in the back yard, where the southern light creates the perfect environment for my sun-seeking perennials to blossom. In this article I will feature my top 3 full-sun-perennials for each season, that will ensure a constant show of color in your garden from last to first frost. The plants featured below perform best in full sun, which is defined as 6+ hours of direct sunlight a day. Spring These early bloomers pop up in our gardens as winter gives way to spring, seeking out the sun that has already begun to warm the soil. Yarrow This is the most eager plant in my garden and the fern-like leaves are already pushing through the soil. I especially love this hard-working plant for its ability to choke out weeds which it succeeded in doing last year in a problem area of my garden. The plant comes in a variety of colors and heights that are sure to suit any color scheme or garden size. It is important to note, however, that it can be aggressive so plan carefully. Bloom Duration : early spring to late fall. Fernleaf Yarrow Creeping Phlox My rock wall signals the first colors of spring as the matted green leaves appear, giving way to bright, florescent shades of pink, purple, and white flowers. This is a great ground cover and can be tucked in between rocks in an alpine garden. You can get a second bloom later in the growing season by deadheading any spent blooms. Bloom duration : 3-4 weeks Salvia Perennial Salvia is a great addition to the garden if you want to support our early pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Salvia is a drought tolerant choice that holds steady through our dry spells. It needs at least 8+ hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. Depending on the variety, this plant can range in size from 1’ to 5’, giving you multiple options for garden placement. To encourage multiple bloom cycles, trim off the spent flowers, or if it is under blooming, you can cut the plant back mid-summer to encourage more blooms. Bloom duration : 6-8 weeks in spring and then after a haircut, into late summer/fall. Summer By the time summer rolls around, the heat is reaching new heights and as we have seen in the past few years, rolling drought puts a lot of strain on our plants. Luckily, these sun-loving perennials are built to withstand some weather-related strain. Common Milkweed Beautiful and fragrant purple/pink poms top off THE host plant for the Monarch butterfly. Even planting one milkweed plant in your yard will help support future generations of this at-risk butterfly. Once hatched, the young caterpillars will feast on the leaves so be cautious using chemicals around this plant. Common Milkweed is best placed in the center or the back of your garden due to its height, which averages around 3’-5.’ The seeds pods should be collected at the end of the season to prevent reseeding. Bloom duration : June – September. Hardy Geranium - G. Rozanne If you are looking for a sprawling, prolific bloomer, this is your plant. The violet-blue petals persist through the heat of summer and into fall, attracting bees and hummingbirds. This low maintenance plant really pulls its weight in the garden, but if it starts to lag, you can prune it back mid-season to rejuvenate it. Stunning along a border, or in the garden where you can create a cascading effect. Blooming Duration : Early Summer – Late fall. Coneflower (Echinacea) A garden staple, the coneflower supports pollinators in spring and summer, and provides seeds to songbirds (like Goldfinch) throughout the fall and winter months. When choosing a coneflower, opt for a less showy bloom with a single blossom to attract more pollinators. Think of the center of the flower as a landing pad. If it is obstructed by a complex petal structure, pollinators may find the flower less attractive and move on in search of flowers easier to access. To ensure a long bloom season, deadhead the spent flowers to promote a second flush of blooms. Blooming Duration : July – September. Autumn Cooler temperatures are followed by fading flowers and the promise of garden cleanup before the snow flies. Luckily, the color show does not have to end. These plants will round out the year with their warm, vivid colors. Aster Aside from its striking color amid a dulling floral background, this plant plays a critical role in continuing the nourishment of late season pollinators. Great for filling out a space in the garden that is abundant in spring and summer bloomers, to keep the color rolling into fall. You can cut these down to the ground once the first frost arrives or wait until spring to allow birds to enjoy the seeds through winter. Blooming Duration : August – October Sedum As a member of the stonecrop family, Autumn Joy Sedum is unique. The taller varieties, which can grow up to 24”, have large succulent leaves and tight clusters of flowers that deepen to rose or salmon as the temperatures cool in the fall. This variety is perfect in a garden where spring and summer blooming flowers have faded. Creeping sedum is used as a ground cover and is well suited for rocky landscapes with dry soil conditions where it is harder to grow other types of plants. Blooming Duration : Late summer into fall. Autumn Joy Stonecrop Hardy Mums A true sign of fall, this beautiful plant comes in a multitude of colors and is prized for its late season blooms. It is important to note that there are two distinct types of mums: the “hardy mum” and the “florist mum.” “Florist mums” are typically found at the end of the season at grocery or hardware stores. They are not adapted to our winters and are mainly a short-lived decorative plant. A “hardy mum” may need to be sourced out of a catalogue or special ordered from your nursery and should be planted in the spring to encourage root establishment through the year. Once established, you will be rewarded with a reliable display of color into fall each year. Bloom Duration : Late summer – Late fall. It is important to remember that while there are many plants that are versatile in their light requirements, with the ability to exist in a range of sun exposures, plants do have a best sun exposure which should be adhered to as much as possible to ensure that your plant is in a space where it can reach its full potential. These sun perennials need full sun to perform their best and to delight you year after year. Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Mike Myers, Flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3), Stockbridge School of Agriculture ( UMass.edu ) (4), Penn State Extension; extension.psu.edu (5), Horticulture and Home Pest News; iastate.edu (6), UW Arboretum ( wisc.edu ) (7), PNW Plants ( wsu.edu ) (8), Illinois Extension (UIUC) (9)