< Back Boxelder Bugs Julie Harris, Master Gardener It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. As the weather is growing cooler, have you wondered what are those black and orange (or red), half-inch long bugs clinging in swarms to the sunny side of your house or door? Most likely, they are boxelder bugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed in boxelder and maple trees. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. Boxelder bugs belong to the same family as stink bugs, cicadas and insects with “piercing and sucking mouthparts.” They release a bad odor when crushed. They emerge, bright red, in the spring and feed on female boxelder trees; although they may also feed on maple or ash trees. Boxelder bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. They are not generally harmful but they can be an annoyance. Other than removing your female boxelder trees, the best way to manage boxelder bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment. The best time to spray is late summer and early fall. Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom. Boxelder bugs do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some boxelder bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extenison (1, 2), CooperPest (3)

< Back Making Something Lovely After the Blooms Have Faded Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s October in Minnesota and most of your plants are no longer blooming. It’s always a bit sad to see your colorful garden fade for the season. But many of these flowers leave behind lovely seed pods or lovely flowers heads. This article shows you how you can take dried plants from your garden and turn them into a beautiful wreath to enjoy inside. It’s October and most of your flowers are probably no longer blooming. Last year at this time I took a walk around my yard and noticed how many lovely seed pods, dried flower heads, and grass stalks were still waving in the fall breeze. Usually, I fill baskets with them or vases (no water) and set them all over the house for natural, soft color pallet decorations. This year I decided to try my hand at making a wreathe. It wasn’t difficult, just took some time. Boy did it make a mess, but that’s what vacuum cleaners are for, right? Since I had so many dried flowers and grasses, I bought a very large grapevine wreathe to use for my base. I thought I would have to hot melt glue the stems to it, or wire them, or sew them, like I did with the cayenne pepper wreath that was featured a few years ago in the Garden Buzz. This time I kept the stems long when I cut everything out of the gardens, and it worked just fine to gently weave them through the grapevine. Take some time to plan your layout, coming up with a pleasing design based on what you have. For the wreathe pictured here, I used Globe Hydrangea, Garlic Chive, Pampas Grass, Pearly Everlasting and a few ornamental thistle heads. It’s a good idea to spray the entire thing with cheap aerosol hairspray when you are done before you hang it up. Spray it outside. This will help hold the blooms and grasses as they continue to dry out over the years. Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)

< Back The Food Explorer (The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Do you ever wonder where the tasty vegetables, fruits and spices we consume come from? No, I am not talking about the grocery store, or your backyard garden. I am talking about where in the world they originated and how they got to North America. Enjoy this review of “The Food Explorer” by Daniel Stone. And I am certain that you will be tempted to click on your Amazon app and purchase the book! Review by Linda Holt, Master Gardener Did you ever wonder where your banana came from? Or how about that juicy navel orange you crave every morning not only for its sweetness but also for the healthy dose of Vitamin C it provides? Avocados, surely, they are a California staple, along with the almonds we enjoy in everything from the true nut to the almond milk used as a substitute for dairy milk (originally brought to California from Spain by the Franciscan Padres). I must admit that I have always been under the false assumption that America just had these treasures in abundance when this country was founded. I, like many Americans, assumed that the variety of food grown in my garden or purchased from farmers markets and grocery stores, has always been a part of our heritage. However, “The Food Explorer,” corrects the false idea that the incredible wealth of fruit, vegetables, nuts, and even cotton, that we enjoy originated in the United States. This fascinating book explains the origin of these plants from many varied countries and jungles around the world. Author Daniel Stone, armed with a multitude of seemingly endless journals, letters and records, shares the delightful and fascinating story of David Fairchild, a late-nineteenth century food explorer and his benefactor Barbour Lathrop, a wealthy, private citizen whom he met aboard a ship bound for Italy. As a 20-year-old botanist, David left his Kansas home to work for the Department of Agriculture. There he studied ways to combat plant fungus. Along with a colleague named Wallace Swingle, he created a new government agency that they called the “Office of Seed and Plant Introduction”. Between the years of 1894 and 1904, David (consumed by his wanderlust for travel) searched the far reaches of the world for the unusual and delectable. Over that time he transported an inventory of over 4,000 plants; including avocados and watermelons from Chili, Soy Beans from Indonesia, Meyer Lemons from China, nectarines from Pakistan, kale from Croatia, hops from Bavaria and pomegranates from Malta to name a few. It wasn’t always easy, as some of the plants would not survive the journey or due to the abundance of plants and the lack of qualified people to handle them at home, some would eventually die before they could be moved and reproduced. Additionally, he suffered diseases, bargained with island tribes and was once arrested. One of the most fascinating things that Daniel Stone contributed to our nation is the introduction of the cherry blossom tree from Japan. After David fell in love with and married Marian Hubbard Bell (daughter of Alexander Graham Bell), he decided to relinquish his extensive travels and purchase a 10 acre parcel located near Chevy Chase Maryland. There he began to fill the space with his favorite trees and shrubs that he found during his travels. Marian had only one plant request: the Japanese flowering Cherry tree that she referred to as “Cherry Blossom.” The consequential history of this famous tree that outlines the DC Capitol streets is quite extensive and is best read rather than condensed herein. David Fairchild did lead an enviable life that was made possible by happenstance and living during a time period known as “the Gilded Age,” a time of rapid economic growth and industrialization. His story, as told by Daniel Stone, is a fascinating read. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did! Photo credits: book jacket

< Back Put these insects under gardening law until you annihilate THEM! Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener This is the time of year when bugs, not eliminated earlier in the year, try to take over your plants. Don’t get those creepy-crawly pests ruin your houseplants. Read this article to learn how to prevent getting those bugs and how to eliminate them if they manage to creep in. THEM : A HORROR HORDE OF CREEPY-CRAWLY PESTS CLAWING OUT OF THE SOIL AND FROM UNDERNEATH LEAVES! Kill one and two take its place! Steps you can take to reduce the chances of an infestation: Chose the right plant for the place it will live; take into consider light, temperature, soil/air humidity and air circulation. Before bringing them inside, inspect stems, tops and undersides of leaves (also the pots), for insects, webbing, holes and eggs. Things you can do to treat infestations: Use a forceful stream of water to dislodge insects. Physically remove pests with fingers or tweezers. Use yellow sticky traps to trap flying insects like whiteflies, fungus gnats or thrips. Small numbers of scale insects can be scraped off with a fingernail file or the like. Re-pot using new soil and sterilized pots, making sure to thoroughly wash off old soil. Prune if a pest issue is limited to a few leaves, stems or branches. Dispose of the entire plant if it’s heavily infested. Indoor Plant Insects Aphids Fungus gnats Mealybugs Thrips Whiteflies Spidermites Scale Insects Boston Fern x x x Crotons x x x ZZ plant x x x x x x Snake Plants x x x x x x Easter Cactus x x x x Fiddle leaf fig x x x Spider plants x x x x x Monstera x x Pothos x x x Jade plant x x x Rubber plant x x x Prayer plant x x x x Air plant x x Peace Lily x x x x String of Pearls x x x African violets x x Cyclamen mites Chinese Evergreen x x x x Insecticides Aphids Fungus gnat larvae Mealybugs Thrips Whiteflies Spidermites Scale Insects Pyrethrins x x x x x Insecticidal Soap x x x x x Plant oil extracts x x x x x Neem Oil x x x Bti strain AM 65-52 * x Imidacloprid ** x x x x(soft) *Used in mosquito dunks **Toxic to Bees Insecticide Precautions: When using a product that requires mixing with water, make only as much as you expect to use in one day and use it that day. Apply chemicals outdoors whenever possible. Use a well-ventilated area to spray plants indoors. Enclose your plant in a plastic bag and seal shut. Cut a small hole and insert your spray nozzle. Spray your plant, especially under the leaves. Remove the nozzle and quickly cover the hole with duct tape. Keep it out of direct sun until dry. CAUTION: Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Be sure that the area you wish to treat is listed on the label of the pesticide you intend to use . Remember, the label is the law. Never use any pesticide on a plant that is moisture-stressed. Water the soil a day or two before applying pesticides. extension.umn.edu Managing insects on indoor plants With no natural enemies indoors, inspect your houseplants weekly for insect pests like mealybugs and scale. Photo credit: Marjorie Blare, artist (1)

< Back Chow Mein – A Vegetable “Left-Overs” Recipe Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Joy Johnson is a prolific vegetable grower. She has found this recipe for Chow Mein not only delicious but helpful in making use of the abundant vegetables in her cupboards. Whether using your own vegetable stash or those purchased at the grocery store, you will enjoy this recipe! Are you buried in vegetables from your garden? Like me, can you not bear to weed out plants or seedlings? I am always sure that everything will fit in the garden and that not everything will grow and produce. I am usually wrong on both counts! I have a very full garden with the raspberries hanging over the broccoli and the beets, the cucumbers growing on the fence because there is no room for them on the ground and the tomatoes growing up and over the fence, with no room to walk in between the plants. And then I’m always sure I’m never going to get very many vegetables as they start out few and far between, suddenly I’m buried in bowls full of veggies on my kitchen table! Here is a recipe that I’ve been making for years to use some of my mountain of vegetables. Since the words “Chow Mein” actually mean “left-overs”, I have proven over the years that it turns out no matter what vegetables I put in it (don’t put in tomatoes though) and no matter what quantity of vegetables are used. You don’t have to put in the chicken, and if you want it spicier, you can add Italian sausage. If you need to add more sauce because of the quantity of vegetables, you can easily double that part of the recipe. I often serve it topped with the crunchy Chinese noodles and/or cashews. Chow Mein Prepare and have ready: 1 lb pork, beef, chicken or shrimp. (I usually use chicken) cut in thin slices. 3 c. celery, sliced diagonally 2 c. onions, sliced lengthwise ¾ c. mushrooms, fresh or canned (drain) 3 c. fresh bean sprouts Combine in a small bowl and set aside: 1 T. fresh ginger, chopped OR ¼ tsp powdered ginger 1 tsp sugar 3 T. cornstarch 5 T. soy sauce ¾ c. soup stock or reconstituted bouillon Heat in a large skillet: 1 T. oil. Add meat and stir-fry just until done. Remove from heat. In another skillet, stir-fry in 1 T. oil each vegetable just until slightly cooked. Add each vegetable to meat skillet after stir-frying. Just before serving, reheat meat mixture and add sauce. Cook just until sauce thickens and clears. Serve hot with rice and enjoy! Photo credits: www.angsarap.net/All Creative Commons (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back Making Delicious Meals with Hardy Vegetables Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Master Gardener Joy Johnson is an accomplished vegetable grower but even she struggled this year with the effects of the hot weather and drought on her crops. Still, she offers 4 tried, true and delicious recipes for using the vegetables that were garden champions this year. You will want to read this article for inspiration in the kitchen! It’s the first of August and I’m hoping your garden is flourishing this month. I must tell you, with the drought and the rain and the storms, some of my veggies are doing great and some are struggling along. Gardening is always a gamble, we do our part to plant, weed, fertilize, mulch and water, but sometimes even with all that TLC our veggies might not produce like the seed catalogs promised they would. I consider it a challenge. My garden has thrown down the gauntlet, asking me if I can make something nutritious and delicious with its sometimes-meager offerings. I accept that challenge! Since I like to eat lighter in the summer, I have been focusing on soups and salads. Here are a couple of soup recipes and a colorful salad. The Italian Garden Vegetable Soup is vegetarian and is quick and easy to make. The Zuppa Toscana is my hack of Olive Garden’s soup of the same name. This is a heavier cream-based soup, and makes great use of tons of kale, which you may have in abundance right now! And the Broccoli Slaw is a triumph over critters and heat. This month I also included a Martini drink recipe. My brother and I grow lots of basil and this cocktail that he came up with is a cool, refreshing use of basil. Grapefruit is one my favorite fruits. You can use canned grapefruit juice, but fresh squeezed elevates this cocktail to a gourmet level. Italian Garden Vegetable Soup (makes 6-8 servings) 2 medium zucchinis, sliced 2 medium yellow summer squash, sliced 1 small or medium eggplant, peeled and diced 6 medium tomatoes, diced (whatever variety you grew are fine) 2-4 ears of corn, kernels cut off the cob (steam first, then it’s easier to cut them off) 2 parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups veggie broth (store bought or homemade) 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley (dried is fine too. You’ll see I used dried in the photo. My parsley didn’t do well this year, but I have plenty of dried from last year) 1/4-1/2 tsp onion salt Salt and pepper Place all ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to steam vegetable in broth for 10 minutes. Add more salt and pepper if you’d like. Zuppa Toscana (make 8-10 servings) 1 large white onion diced 1 ½ pounds ground Italian sausage. I have a home blend of venison and spicey Italian port sausage that is quite spicey. You can use a mild Italian sausage or a spicier variety depending on how much heat you want. 7 small red potatoes, peeled, quartered, and thinly sliced 2 cups chicken broth 4 cups water 1-2 tsp red chili flakes (don’t use this if you use a spicier sausage) 1 pint whipping cream 1 large bunch of kale, tough stems removed, and leaves chopped Chicken bouillon powder. In a large pot, brown the onion and sausage; drain fat. Add potatoes, broth, water, and chili flakes. Cover pot and bring to a boil for about 20 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Stir in the cream. Soup will thicken the longer you keep it warm and stirred. Mix kale into hot soup for about the last 5 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust seasoning with small addition of bouillon, if desired. Cashew Broccoli Slaw (makes 6 servings) I grew tiny cabbages, a couple of red ones and a couple of green ones (lots of insect damage). But you don’t need a lot to make this tasty salad. My broccoli also didn’t produce much. I consider it a triumph that I can use what I grow to make something good regardless of its quantity or quality. Dressing: 1 cup plain yogurt 1/3 cup sugar 1 T apple cider vinegar In a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, sugar, and vinegar until smooth. Salad: 1 medium sized head of broccoli, washed, peel the stems and chop 1 small head of red cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 small head of green cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 carrot, grated or julienned ¼ cup garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed ¼ cup chopped green onions 1 cup raisins or craisins 1 cup cashew pieces, salted Add broccoli, cabbage, green onions and raisins/craisins to the bowl. Fold slaw mixture into dressing until evenly coated. Chill until ready to serve. Toss cashews into the salad right before serving. Dale’s Grapefruit-Basil Martini 3 parts fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 part grapefruit vodka (Dale uses Citron – the one with no added sugar) ½ part Elderflower liqueur (Dale uses St. Germain) ½ part fresh lime juice ½ part simple syrup to taste (1 part sugar, 2 parts water) 1-2 springs fresh basil 2-3 drops grapefruit bitters Muddle basil in the grapefruit juice and refrigerate for 24 hours in a Mason jar. Stir or shake periodically. After 24 hours, strain out the basil (a few remaining green flecks are okay). Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with basil (which really provides more of a basil punch!) Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)

< Back China Bayles Series By Susan Wittig Albert In the mood for a little light reading while exploring the world of herbs? Master Gardener and herb expert Shari Mayer reviews the “China Bayles” mystery series by Susan Wittig Albert. Each of the multiple volume mystery series centers around a particular herb. Read this article to learn more about this clever and informative mystery series. Reviewed By Shari Mayer, Master Gardener In the mood for a little light reading with an educational bent? Check out the China Bayles series by Susan Wittig Albert. This series can be likened to ‘The Cat Who…’ mystery novels, by Lilian Jackson Braun. Even if you’re not a mystery buff, these books are delightful and you learn a lot about herbs along the way. It’s a lovely read for a road trip, up at the cabin, or just sitting on your porch after a long day gardening. This series is comprised of 28 mysteries to date, each centering around a particular herb. It’s a great way to explore the world of herbs. I would recommend reading in order, although it’s not required. Albert has been publishing this series since 1992, garnering several awards along the way, including the Agatha award. She has a Ph.D. in English from Berkeley, and has also published under pen names, including Carolyn Keene and Robin Paige. In this series China Bayles is a high-powered attorney, who left that world behind to open an herb shop in a small Texas town. Each book is centered around a particular herb, and it’s amazing how much you learn about that herb as the plot thickens. I’ve been recommending this series for years now, and it doesn’t matter your age or inclination, everyone seems to love them. If you haven’t tried them, now’s the time. I used to get them from the library, but I hear Kindle, as well as Amazon Prime, both have options. Happy reading!

< Back Tomatoes the Ubiquitous Summer Vegetable BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s not too late to plant tomatoes in Minnesota this summer. But, how do you choose from the many, many brands of tomatoes that are out there. Read this article for very useful information about choosing the right variety of tomato to grow in your garden. It’s June, so likely you have already chosen and planted garden tomatoes. If you’re still debating, you’re at the right place. Let’s review of one of the most popular vegetables raised in home gardens. The tomato, s olanum lycopersicum, Lycopersicon lycopersicum is a member of the nightshade family of plants; most of the family are poisonous. Thank goodness for this tasty, safe to consume relative. World-wide there are 10,000 varieties of these delicious orbs. A small percentage perform very well in Minnesota. Our growing season is challenging given the potential for late frosts, and the wide range of temperatures (hot to hotter) over a short period. Tomatoes are almost any color of the rainbow. Sizes range from cherry, about the size of a thumb tip; to beefsteak, regularly at seven inches in diameter with some weighing nearly a pound or more. So many tomatoes, so little time! To help with choosing the optimal for your garden take a look at the results of 2022 tomato seeds trial of six varieties: Brandywine Marriage Tomatoes Below are some general considerations when choosing varietals. To Heirloom or not to Heirloom An Heirloom tomato carries the best characteristics of tomatoes and have been grown for decades. They have been grown without crossbreeding for at least 40-50 years or more. When you choose heirloom varieties you consistently get what you expect. Heirlooms are reportedly easy for the beginner gardener to grow. They are also often considered to be more flavorful. Hybrid, “normal” tomatoes are carefully bred (human intervention) to have particular characteristics. For example, hybrids have larger yields. They also may be bred to be more resistant to pests and disease. Determinate versus Indeterminate Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain point, then stop. They are bushy, compact, of shorter stature, and generally 2-4 feet tall. They still require some support, like tomato cages. They produce all of their tomatoes at once. The fruits develop on the ends of the branches. Determinate tomatoes are usually labeled as “bush,” “patio,” or “container” - perfect for smaller spaces. There are also dwarf types. Since all the tomatoes on the plant mature simultaneously, they tend to have a shorter growing season. In order to have tomatoes throughout the summer, one must either stagger start dates, or consider planting additional indeterminate tomatoes. Indeterminate plants grow and grow. They are the vine tomatoes most recognized and envisioned when people talk about growing tomatoes. They can grow to lengths of 10-12 feet, therefore, require vertical supports, and lots of them. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruit throughout the season. The fruit grows all along the stems, ripening at different times. This results in a longer growing season and and greater yield than determinate varieties. Regardless of your choices, enjoy the sun-happy tomatoes until the Minnesota frost sweeps them away. Here are two recipes that are often overlooked. First, more than a movie, welcome: Fried Green Tomatoes! Second, the “Southern Tomato Sandwich.” NOTE, Duke’s Mayo is what makes it perfect. Ingredients 2 (½-inch-thick) slices beefsteak tomato ¼ tsp. kosher salt or ⅛ tsp. table salt ¼ tsp. freshly, coarsely ground black pepper 2 slices soft, white sandwich bread 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise, or more!! Directions Arrange tomato slices on a paper towel, sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. Let stand until tops of slices are beaded up with juices, 3 to 5 minutes. Spread one side of each bread slice with 1½ tablespoons mayonnaise. Arrange tomato slices on mayo side of one bread slice: top with other bread slice, mayo slice down. Enjoy the messy, juicy goodness immediately!! I leave you with this final thought in the form of Haiku: Beautiful and firm Sweet summer fruit soaks up sun Delicious to eat Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,2)

< Back Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Not every seed is created equal. Trying to get some of the native perennials to germinate seems to require an Act of Congress. And they’re gridlocked! Not so with the humble but glorious zinnia. In my book, zinnias are some of the most overlooked yet rewarding annuals a Minnesotan could hope for. Although originating in Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., varieties have been developed all over the world. Yet they all still retain their love of warmth and sunlight, a commodity sometimes in short supply up here. Fear not! Simply sew zinnia seeds after the last hard frost and bide your time. As things warm up the seedlings will take care of the rest, producing blooms from late spring, far into the fall. If you have a warm sunny spot inside, you might even consider starting some seeds four to six weeks before the last frost. Unlike some more persnickety plants, zinnias germinate readily. You can set them out in the garden when they get two to four inches tall and enjoy weeks of blooms before the seeds you sewed get in gear. There are many varieties of zinnias ranging in height from 6 inches to 4 feet. I like the older, smaller blooms. They are hardy, fast growing, and tough plants. As I said, they do need full sun and warmth, but ask little else. One fertilization a season usually suffices. They are quite disease resistant. Powdery mildew seems to be the only common malady. It doesn’t look very attractive, but the plants usually survive. To keep them happy and mildew free, select a well-drained location for planting. Zinnias don’t like their feet wet. Mixed zinnias in full summer bloom If you find a variety you really like, consider collecting seeds in the late fall. Just cut off the spent flowers, shake out the seeds onto a sheet of paper, slip them into an envelope and store in the fridge until early next spring to start indoors or sew in the garden a bit later. Either way you will have bold, bright colors to cheer you through the gardening season! Late fall zinnia seed heads ready for harvest Want to learn more about zinnias than you thought there was to learn? Try Eric Grissell’s new book, A History of Zinnias: Flower for the Ages , Perdue University Press, West Layette, IN, 2020. Photo credits: Jim Lakin (1, 2)

< Back Deciphering Seed Catalogs Seed catalogs start coming in January or February - a good time to start dreaming of your next garden! But there is so much information packed into a seed catalog it can be hard to interpret the abbreviations and array of plant varieties. This article will help you to decipher your seed catalogs so that you can choose the best plants for your garden. Marjorie Blare, Master Gardener Seed catalogs start coming in January or February - a good time to start dreaming of your next garden! There is so much information packed into a seed catalog! Most people have no problem with the catalogs’ rapturous descriptions of flowers or produce. After all, the catalogs are full of (probably 'enhanced') photos! More bewildering are the icons next to the photos. A good catalog has a key that explains what each icon means. They might have a drawing of a circle that is half dark and half light. They should also explain how many hours of direct sun that icon indicates, perhaps 4-6 hours. The key may be at the front of the catalog, or at the bottom of the page. Plant descriptions can have letters next to them. For instance, tomatoes may have the letters VFM. This means that variety has resistance to verticillium, fusarium wilt and nematodes. Without those letters, describing a plant as “disease resistant” is useless. Tomatoes will be listed as determinate (bush) or indeterminate (vining). You may find the letters OP (open pollinated), F1 (first generation hybrid) or X (a 'cross') in its name. F2 is a hybrid that can only be propagated vegetatively. These letters are important if you wish to save seeds. The OP seeds will breed true, but not the others. Flowers will have 'days to bloom' and/or 'bloom season' in their description, and veggies will have days to maturity or harvest. Note: 'days to harvest' for plants started indoors count from the day it is planted out. These numbers are based on the seed company's test gardens; choosing northern-grown seeds or plants, will make those numbers more accurate in Dakota County. The description or icon will tell you when to direct-sow the seeds or when to start them under lights. The latter requires you to know the average date of the last or first frost. Dakota County's dates are May 8th and October 10th respectively. It will tell you how many seeds are in a package, how far apart to plant, soil conditions (alkaline or acidic, clay, sandy, loamy) and watering requirements. Left-over seeds can be donated to a seed library, shared with friends or saved in a dry jar in the refrigerator. There will be shipping charges on the packages of seeds, so try to order all at once, or with friends, or with a heavier item. If you are getting perennials, make sure to choose plants that will grow in our U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) zone. Dakota County is zone 4. Some catalogs “stretch” the range of zones, so try to compare what different catalogs claim about the same plant or seed. Some catalogs include a USDA map and perhaps a table of temperature ranges. The catalog should list the scientific name of the plant, because common names are frequently shared by several unrelated plants. On-line catalogs will have simplified descriptions, but also have links to click to open up more information. They may also have customer reviews which are very helpful! Photo credit: www.ag.ndsu.edu (1)

< Back How to Share Your Plants Safely Sharing plants from our gardens is a common and gratifying practice among gardeners. But in these times, we must know how to share plants safely. Safe from what? Jumping worms have become a significant and difficult problem for Minnesota gardens. This particular type of worm has the ability to ravage your garden soil and weaken or kill your plants. This article will help you learn more about this pest and show you how you can still share your plants safe from the spread of jumping worms. Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The Dakota County Master Gardener Plant Sale is scheduled soon. As we plan to share the lovely garden flowers abound in Dakota County, we will be mindfully bare rooting the plants before donating to the sale . If you are planning to share plants from your garden with others this summer, bare rooting them is the safe way to do it. Why bare root?! The goal of bare rooting plants is to prevent the spread of jumping worms, which are an invasive species of worms in the United States. The worms can produce significant destruction in your garden by severely impacting the soil structure of your garden and reducing or destroying plant growth. Read this article from the University of Minnesota Extension to learn more about jumping worms in Minnesota. Prevention is key to limiting the spread of invasive jumping worms. Since soil, plant roots and mulch are the common materials most likely to spread the jumping worms, you can play an integral role in minimizing jumping worm issues. Note that in the spring, jumping worms are either cocoons or juveniles. The cocoons are the size and color of soil aggregates so they are difficult to see. Juvenile jumping worms may look like other juvenile earthworms at this point, without the telltale cream color collar, so they are hard to find or identify. These worms and juvenile worms can easily hide inside the roots of your plant. You can still share your plants and dramatically reduce the spread of jumping worms by taking steps to “bare root” your plants. The remainder of this article will provide step-by-step instructions about how to do so. How to Bare Root Your Plants Before sharing your beautiful garden plants, please take the following steps to bare root your donations. SUPPLIES: Drop cloth for work area; your plant; deep tray or wash tub; chopsticks or bamboo skewer; 4-5 five gallon buckets, with all but one half full of water; sheets of newspaper; paper towel; sterile soil; twine; label; 5 gallon elastic-top paint strainer and a gallon sized plastic bag. DIRECTIONS : 1. Prepare the work area with a dropcloth. Take the plant out of its pot over the deep tray/washtub. Using the chopsticks/skewer or your hands, completely remove all the dirt directly into the tray. 2. Rinse the roots in 2-3 of the water buckets until clean. 3. Examine the roots to ensure no dirt or potential jumping worm cocoons remain. 4. Position one sheet of newspaper into a diamond shape. Set a paper towel in the middle of the newspaper. 5. Lay the plant on the paper towel. Sprinkle sterile soil on the roots. 6. Wrap the bottom of the newspaper up on the roots and dirt. Fold in both sides of the newspaper over the roots. Tie the packet with twine. 7. Attach a label with the plant’s name to the twine. Write the plant’s name on the newspaper, too. 8. Put the tied packet into a bucket of clean water (ie., a bucket of water not used to rinse the roots) to hydrate it initially, removing it after soaked. Water the packet daily. 9. Return the dirt from the washtub to the old plant pot. Put the dirt back where it came from. 10. Pull the elastic paint strainer over the empty bucket. Dump everything collected in the other 5 gallon buckets (that you used to rinse off the plant’s dirt) into the empty bucket. Remove the strainer and the strained material into a gallon sized plastic bag. Seal the bag and discard it in the trash. Tip the bucket to empty the water into the area where the plant originated. Clean the dropcloth to prevent inadvertent spread of the worms/cocoons. NOTE : Since no earthworms are native to Minnesota, drop any worms found while bare rooting into a plastic bag, seal it and put it in the trash. Do not compost. With a little practice, you’ll get the hang of bare rooting. A practice well worth it to keep your garden healthy. Resources Bare Root Instructions Credit to Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Video instructions from Dakota County Master Gardeners. Included in this video is another video by Julia Vanatta. Special credit must be given to her. Without her research and demonstration classes this article could not have been written. Julia promotes sustainable gardening as a volunteer for Wild Ones Twin Cities. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3), Longfield Gardens (from Creative Commons licenses) (1)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.