< Back Learn to Identify Garden Insects – Good and Bad Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener We know that most insects in our garden are beneficial. But when we find insect damage on our beloved flowers, vegetables and fruits, it’s hard not to focus on the damaging insects. A good gardening practice is to keep abreast of the latest research on how to attract good insects and adopt pest management practices to minimize damage from the “bad” insects. By seeking out research-based information on good and bad insects, you can learn about potential damage and a range of control options to make well-informed decisions about managing the pests in your Minnesota garden. Read this article to learn more about good and bad insects and how to tell the difference. Some common pests and how to identify them Leaf Lily Beetle While inspecting my garden in late May, I noticed holes in the Asiatic lily leaves and some red beetles. I confirmed the insect to be a Leaf Lily Beetle, a non-native pest. I learned most of the damage is done by the larva so I inspected the lilies again. As expected, I found muddy brown globs. I cleaned the larva off, removed the beetles and limited further damage by frequent inspection and manual removal of the pest. Leaf Lily Beetle Check out the following articles to learn more about this pest, its lifecycle and control options: Minnesota State Horticulture Society: Scarlet Lily Beetle Infestations Minnesota Dept. of Agriculture (MDA): Lily Leaf Beetle University of Utah: Lily Leaf Beetle Cabbage Worm While working with master gardeners at a local vegetable trial garden, I learned that each year the cabbage is damaged by caterpillars. The first sign of the pest in the garden is a white butterfly with a black spot on each wing. The butterfly and the larva are a match to the imported cabbageworm. Cabbage worm This pest can be difficult to control manually once established and the damage reduces the amount of usable produce. To attempt to control the pest this year, we installed a mesh cover over the cabbage when the small plants were transplanted into the garden. The intent is to minimize damage with early intervention so that the butterflies are not able to lay their eggs. The results for this year are pending but sometimes a new approach is worth trying. Check out the following articles to learn more about common vegetables pests, lifecycles, expected damage and control options from the UMN Extension: Caterpillars on Cole Crops Cropping Calendars for Cruciferous Vegetables, and Pumpkin and Squash under Common insects in vegetable crops Fruit and vegetables crop insects Shrub Rose Pests Three pests attack my shrub roses every year. The damage starts in early May with white spotting on the lower leaves, an indication of sap sucking - Rose Leafhopper . Rose Leafhopper and leaf damage In June I observe green caterpillar-like larvae munching on the leaves - the Rose Sawfly larva (also known as Roseslug ). Leaf damage from Rose Sawfly Adult Rose Sawfly In late June, beetles can be seen destroying the rose blooms - the Japanese Beetle . Japanese Beetle Despite all of this pest activity, the roses can be enjoyed most of the season with some manual control. I squash the leafhoppers early if there is significant damage. I watch for the appearance of the Roseslugs and squash them or drop them into soapy water. This year I also began looking for the sawflies to see if I could disturb them and prevent them from laying their eggs and thus minimize the Roseslug problem. The Japanese beetles are the most destructive and because they are relentless, I knock them into soapy water as frequently as is feasible. The best news is that the pests are mostly gone when the roses bloom a second time in late summer. Check out the following articles to learn more about rose pests, lifecycles and control options: Sawfly and its larvae , Roseslugs are located under Deciduous Trees and Shrubs.(UMN Extension) Rose pests . (UKY, includes Japanese Beetle, Roseslug, Rose Leafhopper and others) What about the good insects? The insects that damage our plants grab our attention but we need to remember that most insects in our gardens are beneficial and play a vital role in the ecosystem. Insects pollinate a wide variety of fruits, nuts, vegetables, and native plants. Insects also decompose plant and animal material, are used in medicine and research and they are an essential food source for many birds, mammals and other insects. An apple exists only when the flower is pollinated. A butterfly exists only when the caterpillar is allowed to mature to adult stage, with essential food sources and the correct host plant. Pollinators Insects that pollinate include wild and domesticated bees, flies, wasps, moths, butterflies and more. Did you know that flies are second to bees in pollination? The syrphid fly appears to be a small bee but is actually a “hover fly” that moves about quickly and feeds on nectar and pollen. I found this pretty little fly hovering and feeding on cranesbill geranium, shrub rose and columbine flowers in my garden. Look for it! Unlike bees and wasps which have two pairs of wings, the syrphid fly has a single pair. It does not sting or bite. Syrphid fly Butterflies are incredibly beautiful and fun to watch, make it your goal to learn about some new butterflies to attract to your garden with nectar and larval host plants for butterflies. Butterfly Gardening . (UMN Dept. of Entomology) Monarch Bumblebees are a joy to watch in addition to the serious pollination work they do. This UMN BeeLab page includes a field guide to identify Minnesota Bumblebees . Bumblebee Predators Some insects are beneficial because they feed on other insects and frequently it is not the adult that provides the most benefit. This is why understanding the insect’s lifecycle and what it looks like in different stages can help us better appreciate their value. Lacewings, in their wingless immature state, eat other insects. Lady beetles are beneficial because they feed on insects, nectar and pollen. Asian lady beetles are a bit larger and are a nuisance if they get in your house, but they are otherwise beneficial because they also feed on soft body pests. Both types have alligator-like larvae, quite different from the domed, hard, round to oval shaped adult beetle. Wasps . There are many types of wasps that help control garden pests. For example, the parasitoid wasp is beneficial because it lays its eggs on pests such as the aphid or imported cabbage worm, to feed on the host. These wasps are tiny so don’t expect to identify them but you may see small eggs or larva on the host. The Syrphid fly is not only a pollinator but also feeds on small insect pests. For more on these and other beneficial insects in Minnesota: UMN extension Beneficial Insects . Tips for successfully identifying good and bad insects In order to know whether you need to take steps to control an insect, you need to successfully identify it. Try this process: Observe Be proactive by inspecting plants and watching for insects when they are expected to appear. Gather Information Take a picture please! This will help you recall details when doing your research What type of insect? Does it appear to be a beetle, butterfly or moth, caterpillar, grub or other? Note size, color, markings, # of wings, etc. Where did you find it? Insect pests tend to be specific to certain plants. Is it on a plant or in the soil? Is there any feeding damage? Sometimes you will have to rely on the damage to do your inquiry when the insect is not present. What time of year is it? Insects emerge at different times of the year, some have annual cycles, others have multiple cycles in one season. Take the information you have gathered and go to reputable sources to identify the insect and how to manage it. Search within the UMN Extension site or another known research-backed site. For a list of Helpful Apps for identifying insects, open the “How to Control Specific Pests” header on UMN Extension Preventing pests in your yard and garden page. Other Resources for assistance: Ask a Master Gardener and Yard and Garden News Anticipate and Plan Accordingly When you’ve learned the lifecycle and the best time to interrupt the lifecycle, you can be more strategic about solving a problem. Keep up the good gardening! We all strive for a beautiful flower garden and healthy fruits and vegetables. So, it is important to identify and control threats from damaging insects early. Try to develop a more observant eye and know when to look; anticipate and plan accordingly. Get to know good insects, learn to attract and protect them! Many resources are available to help you satisfy your curiosity about an insect, or help you solve a problem. But don’t hesitate to ask for help if you get stumped. Additional References on Pollinators Did you know that 70% of native bees nest in the ground: 5 ways to Increase nesting habitat for Native Bees . (Xerces Society) Vegetable Garden Best Management Practices (BPM) for Pollinators including a list of recommended garden plants to support pollinators. An example of a best practice is to plan your garden with flowers, veggies, herbs and fruits intermixed. (UMN) Current status on pollinators and what you can do for them. (MDA) Create pollinator friendly habitat with the Lawns to Legumes program . (The Minnesota Board of Water and Soil Resources) Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1, 3, 7, 8), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 4, 5, 6, 9)

< Back Minnesota’s State Muffin and Its Star Ingredient: The Blueberry Blueberry season may be over this year, but as you reflect on this past year and contemplate what to plant next year, a beverage with a nice, big, blueberry muffin may inspire your garden plans. Is your mouth watering yet? Read about the blueberry muffin, some interesting information about growing and picking blueberries in Minnesota, and you’ll also find a couple of bonus recipes to try this winter! Lisa Olson, Master Gardener All 50 states have state symbols - some more than others. (Looking at you, Texas, with at least 70 state symbols!) Only three states, however, have a muffin symbol. New York chose the apple muffin, Massachusetts has the corn muffin, and in 1987 a group of elementary students from Carlton, Minnesota, near Duluth, began their quest to secure the blueberry muffin as the Minnesota state muffin. It was really an exercise in learning about the legislative process. And educational it was. Their first assignment was to choose the muffin flavor that best represented Minnesota. Blueberry was the students’ muffin of choice - fitting, since blueberries are grown across the state. After multiple trips to the capitol during the next session to watch the process of passing bills, the blueberry muffin eventually made its way through in 1988. Perhaps it helped that the “Blueberry Muffin Gang” from Carlton brought muffins for all the legislators on one of their trips in order to help their cause. Minnesota is home to two native blueberry plants: lowbush ( Vaccinium angustifolium ) and velvetleaf ( V. myrtilloides ). They are mostly found in the northeast part of the state, but they can be found across the state from the northwest to the far southeast corner as well. Wild blueberries are generally much smaller than cultivated blueberries so growing blueberries commercially in Minnesota was a challenge because of the cold climate. That changed when the University of Minnesota began researching and breeding cold-hardy, large-fruited cultivars in the 1960’s. Larger berries, taller plants making picking the fruit easier, and breeding for harvesting over a longer season have all greatly improved the commercial production and also provided home growers with more varieties to choose from. The University of Minnesota even cultivated a pink variety. Yes, a pink blueberry! If you are interested in growing blueberries at your home, the University of Minnesota is a great resource to help you select the right plant for your conditions, and for planting and maintaining tips. Here are some quick facts to get you started: Not interested in growing your own? You can still pick your own. There are numerous pick-your-own farms in Minnesota. If you are feeling a little more adventurous, you can pick wild blueberries. Minnesota state parks, Superior National Forest lands, state forest lands, and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area all actually allow berry picking for personal consumption. If you pick an abundance, they freeze well so you can enjoy them all year. Here are a couple of recipes to enjoy. Even though blueberry picking season in Minnesota ends in July or August, blueberry muffins are always in season. The muffin recipe is the official state muffin recipe from the Minnesota Secretary of State website. The pie recipe is especially good for fall and winter occasions with cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice. You will need some fresh blueberries, so thankfully it is always blueberry season somewhere in the world! The combination of fresh and cooked berries make this pie unique and especially delicious. Enjoy! Blueberry Muffin Recipe By Shari Baker, Gunflint Pines Resort 2 c. Flour ½ c. Sugar 1 T. Baking powder ½ t. Salt 1 T. Orange zest (grated peel) 1 c. Blueberries (fresh, dried, or frozen—Do not thaw or rehydrate) 1 c. White Chocolate Chips (*optional, but great!) 1-¼ c. Buttermilk 1 Egg ½ t. Vanilla Sugar in the Raw (large-grain brown sugar) Preheat oven to 425F. Mix buttermilk, egg, and vanilla; set aside. Mix dry ingredients, orange zest, blueberries, and white chocolate chips. Make well in center, pour in liquid mixture, and stir lightly just until mixed. Spoon into lined or greased muffin tins. Top with sugar in the raw, and bake for 20 to 22 minutes. Makes a “baker’s dozen”. New England Blueberry Pie 4 c. fresh blueberries ½ c. sugar ½ c. brown sugar, packed 1 Tbsp. lemon juice ¼ tsp. allspice ¼ tsp. cinnamon ⅛ tsp. nutmeg ¼ tsp. salt 1 8-9” baked pie shell In a saucepan, combine 2 c. berries with sugar, flour, butter, lemon juice, and all the spices and salt. Cook over low heat to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes or until thick. Cool. When cool, add the remaining 2 c. of blueberries. Transfer all of the blueberry mixture into the cooled pie shell. Chill pie. Serve with whipped cream. Resources: https://www.startribune.com/minnesota-symbols-blueberry-muffin-carlton-south-terrace/600172953/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2023/jul-aug/bucket.html https://mnhardy.umn.edu/blueberries https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-blueberries-home-garden#staking-and-support-19061 https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-muffin-blueberry/ https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/commercial-blueberry-production-minnesota-and-wisconsin Photo credits: Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Courtesy of University of Minnesota (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Do All Bees Sting? Lisa Olson, Master Gardener On one hand, a gardener’s tiny friend, the bee, is usually a docile doer of good, buzzing around from plant to plant, pollinating to provide a bountiful harvest in the future. On the other hand, many fear the small insect with the mighty sting. But do all bees sting? If you are curious, click on the link to learn more about our little friend, the bee. Bumblebee Do all bees sting? The short answer is no. But some bees do sting, and they also get blamed for more than their fair share. Many people mistakenly call all stinging insects “bees.” Hornets and wasps are typically more aggressive than their rounder, fuzzier relative, the bee. Bees are pretty tolerant of humans unless they feel provoked or threatened. They will sting to protect their nest or hive, but they are generally not a threat to people if they are left alone. In fact, when bees are busy flying from flower to flower collecting nectar and pollen, you can safely observe them without fear of being stung. However, since about 80 percent of bee species nest in the ground, it is not surprising that many bee stings occur when someone unknowingly steps on a nest. Ground Nest Certain bees are not capable of stinging. Only female bees have a stinger which is a modified egg laying apparatus. Male bees are not equipped with that part and therefore are unable to sting. Not every sting is equal among all female bees. While the social bumblebee and honeybee sting can be quite painful, the sting of most solitary native bees is similar to a pinprick. Of the nearly 20,000 known bee species in the world, about 400 of them live in Minnesota. Only about 2% of those are honeybees and bumblebees, including the state bee of Minnesota, the rusty patched bumblebee. The other 98% are mostly solitary bees like the mason and leafcutter bees. Rusty Patched Bumblebee While some bees are not capable of stinging at all, the female bumblebee, along with its relatives the yellow jacket and paper wasp, can sting multiple times. Its stinger is smooth so that it can remove it and re-inject it multiple times. The honeybee, on the other hand, has a barbed stinger. Once its stinger penetrates human skin, it becomes lodged and cannot be removed. When it flies away, the stinger stays behind, and the honeybee will die shortly afterward from the hole left in its abdomen. If that occurs, the sting victim should immediately scratch out the stinger with a fingernail rather than grasping it with two fingers to prevent squeezing more venom into the wound. A very small portion of the population is allergic to bee or wasp venom. While a person is more likely to die from being struck by lightning than stung by a bee, an average of 62 people die each year in the United States from a bee, wasp, or hornet sting according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Since you can’t just hang around male bees, in order to avoid being stung, you can take the following precautions: Stay calm. Don’t swat at bees. Just remain calm and slowly walk away. Wear shoes outside. Stepping on a nest is the most common way to get stung. Plant flowers away from your doors. Reduce the risk of a negative encounter by planting pollinator habitat away from high traffic areas. Beekeepers wear white for a reason. If you don’t look or smell like a brightly colored flower, bees are less likely to bother you. Just watch, don’t touch. If you leave them alone, they will leave you alone. Bees are excellent neighbors and extremely beneficial to us. Pollinators are responsible for about one third of the food we eat. The best thing we can do, as with all wildlife, is to respect it by keeping our distance. That way we don't have to worry whether it is a stinging bee or not. And last of all, by providing more pollinator friendly habitat, we can ensure a healthy, happy bee population for the future. https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/wasps-and-bees#reactions-to-stings-1465111 https://mphysicians.org/news/2022/07/20/buzz-sting-ow-dealing-wasp-or-bee-stings-11076 https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/68/wr/mm6829a5.htm https://www.pollinator.org/pollinator.org/assets/generalFiles/NAPPC.NoFear.brochFINAL.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests#:~:text=About%2080%20percent%20of%20bee,over%20the%20nests%20of%20others . https://beelab.umn.edu/Native-Bee/diversity https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2020-03/Planting%20for%20Pollinators%20Design%20Guide%20with%20logos.pdf Photo Credit: University of Minnesota (1,2,3,4)

< Back Get to Know Your Good and Bad Weeds We are bringing you a new series this year, “Weed of the Month”. Some months, we’ll highlight a specific weed, show you what it looks like, describe its key characteristics, and methods for managing it. Other months we’ll focus on a special angle about weeds, for example, edible weeds because it turns out that not all weeds are bad! This article provides a very useful set of resources to identify and understand weeds and how you should handle them. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener This month, since weeds are currently dormant, instead of focusing on a specific weed, we’ll introduce you to a valuable resource from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture (MDA) called the Minnesota Noxious Weed List . While there are some ‘good’ weeds, there also are weeds that are more than just a nuisance to the gardener. They actually represent a threat to human or animal health, our eco-systems, crops, livestock, and other property. We all have a role in knowing more about these weeds and the steps to manage or eradicate them. This Noxious Weed website also contains information on how to report noxious weeds to the county, state, or federal agencies responsible for management. Minnesota State Statute, M.S. 18.771 directs the commissioner of MDA to classify these noxious weeds into one of five categories. An overview of the categories is provided below along with a couple of examples of the weeds in that category. We encourage you to visit the link to the noxious weed list provided above to review the tables of noxious weeds and learn more about the specific plants. You may be surprised to see some familiar trees, shrubs, and flowers listed as weeds! Each plant designated as a noxious weed has its own page that includes: Pictures Scientific and common names Legal status Background Description Habitat Means of spread and distribution Impact Prevention and management Toxicity The five categories of noxious weed are: Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds Prohibited Control Noxious Weeds Restricted Noxious Weeds Specially Regulated Plants County Noxious Weeds An additional category exists called Federal Noxious Weeds. The MDA website notes that “federal terrestrial and parasitic listed noxious weeds are prohibited in Minnesota”. These weeds are under the auspices of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and they select and enforce them. You can learn more about the federal weed program at the USDA APHIS website . Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds This weed category includes weeds that must be eradicated across the whole state. These weeds are prohibited from being transported and may not be sold or propagated in Minnesota. Examples of Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds include: Black swallow-wort, Grecian foxglove, and Tree of heaven. Black swallow-wort Prohibited Control Noxious Weeds The weeds in this category must be controlled anywhere they may be found in Minnesota. Like the previous category, these weeds cannot be transported, propagated, or sold. Examples include Canada Thistle, Leafy Spurge, Purple Loosestrife, and Wild Parsnip. Canada Thistle Restricted Noxious Weeds Restricted noxious weeds and their propagating parts are only allowed to be imported, sold, or transported if allowed by permit under section 18.82 . Examples include: crown vetch, Japanese Barberry, Garlic Mustard, and Wild Carrot/Queen Anne’s Lace. Specially Regulated Plants These weeds may be native or nonnative species that have some economic value but may also cause harm in noncontrolled environments. Ecological or economical harm may occur and there are human or animal health concerns. Examples include: Amur Maple, Norway Maple (and all cultivars), and Poison Ivy. Amur Maple County Noxious Weeds Individual county boards may designate plants as noxious weeds and prohibit them within the county’s jurisdiction. However, these designations must be approved by the Commissioner of Agriculture, who consults with the Noxious Weed Advisory Committee. If you are interested in learning more about noxious weeds in Minnesota, you can subscribe to the Noxious Weed of the Month article. Every month, you’ll get an email from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture with information on a noxious weed. To subscribe, Click here to sign up for Weed of the Month emails. We are bringing you a new series this year, “Weed of the Month”. Some months, we’ll highlight a specific weed, show you what it looks like, describe its key characteristics, and methods for managing it. Other months we’ll focus on a special angle about weeds, for example, edible weeds because it turns out that not all weeds are bad! This article provides a very useful set of resources to identify and understand weeds and how you should handle them. Photo credits: Minnesota Department of Agriculture (1,4), University of Minnesota Extension (2), University of Minnesota Extension, Dana Boyle (3)

< Back African Violets Julie Harris, Master Gardener African Violets are one of the most popular houseplants because they require little maintenance and, cared for properly, bloom several times a year. But, as with any plant, they do have specific needs that you must know and pay attention to in order to provide the color and pleasure that you are hoping for. Read this article to understand how to achieve a happy, healthy African Violet in your home. African Violets are a popular houseplant because they are low maintenance and if cared for properly, will bloom several times a year. African Violets ( Saintpaulia ionantha ) were discovered in the 1890s by Baron Walter von Saint Paul in Tanzania. Ionantha refers to the violet color of the flowers, although many hybrids and varieties are now available, including different flower colors. Today, you can find African Violets that are white, pink, maroon, blue, lavender, violet, and deep purple. African Violets can be found in different sizes ranging from 4 to 8 to 16 inches wide to more than 16 inches wide. They have a mounded or round form. Different varieties may have different flower and leaf shapes. The flowers may be single, semi-double, double, ruffled or star shaped. Leaves may be round, heart-shaped or oval and have a fuzzy, velvety texture. African Violets should be planted in containers no more than one-third the width of the plant’s leaf span. They have fine roots and require well-drained soilless potting mix with a pH of about 6.2 – 6.5. Plant containers should have at least one hole in the bottom to allow water to drain. They should be repotted in fresh potting mix once a year. Fertilize the plant each time you water them. Use one-quarter of the recommended amount of fertilizer to keep the roots from being damaged. Fertilizers specially formulated for African Violets can be purchased. In their natural habitat, African Violets received filtered light from the forest canopy. In your house, they need 10 – 16 hours of light and 8 – 10 hours of darkness to flower. They will grow best in a bright, north-oriented exposure; although in the winter months, they may prefer a southern exposure. Fluorescent or LED grow lights can also be used. If your plant has dark, healthy leaves but no blooms, try increasing the light. Conversely, if your plant is not blooming and has pale leaves, reduce the light. As for temperature – if you are comfortable, your African Violet is comfortable. They like 40 – 60% humidity. Grouping plants together is helpful or they can be set on trays of pebbles and water. An even temperature should be maintained and they do not like drafts. Water with room-temperature distilled water or rain water. The potting mix should be moist at all times but not soggy. Overwatering is a common reason that African Violets do not survive. Water just the potting mix as water may cause leaf spots. Do not mist the foliage as it, too, may cause leaf spotting. African Violets can be watered from above but it is not recommended as the plant is susceptible to crown rot. You can also set the pot in a bowl of room-temperature water, 1 – inch deep. When the soil surface feels moist, remove the plant from the water and allow the water to drain from the pot. Do not let the pot sit in water for more than 30 minutes. You can also use a wicking system (see references below) or use self-watering pots. Common problems and solutions: Leaves are long and narrow Not enough light; temperature is too cool Leaves are pale Too much light Plant is limp and wilted Over watering; poor drainage If roots are mushy, brown and slimy, the plant is not likely to survive Leaf spots Water left on leaves Pale leaves, lack of growth Nutrient deficiency, not fertilized regularly Tight plant centers, rusty-colored leaves Over fertilization African Violets can provide many years of pleasure in your house if you follow these fairly straightforward rules for nurturing them. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): A survivor for All Seasons Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Eastern Red Cedar is a beautiful and tenacious native tree that grows vigorously through most of the eastern United States including the lower half of Minnesota. It is a towering and long-lived tree and is an important food source for birds and mammals. Read this article to learn more about this important native tree. Sometimes, something starts growing somewhere and something inside you says “Let it be.” That’s how I came to gain the acquaintance of Eastern Red Cedar as it popped up beside a boulder on the slope of our west lawn. Rather than pull it out, I watched it struggle, overcome and become the beautiful tree that now graces the west side of our home. Like so many natives, it is a very tenacious fellow and grows vigorously through most of the eastern United States including the lower half of Minnesota. So, it does well through Zone 4. Mature red cedar The tree is known variously as Virginia juniper, eastern juniper or red juniper. Although a slow grower, red cedar can reach as high as 60 feet - although in poor soils it may remain no more than a bush. It assumes a pyramidal or cylindrical shape with reddish brown bark and green needle like leaves. It is a dioecious species (boy and girl trees) with the male pollinating and the female forming dark purple berry-like seed cones. These berries form an important food source for many birds such as cedar waxwings, turkeys and bluebirds during the winter months. A number of small mammals such as rabbits, foxes, raccoons and coyotes also feed off red cedar berries. The tree is a long lived with a several hundred-year life-span, if undisturbed. red cedar berries Red cedar is a pioneer species and will be seen early on in fire ravaged areas. But, a cautionary note - owing to its adaptability and perseverance, it can be invasive and has radically changed the ecology of some grasslands. Also, it acts as alternate host for cedar-apple rust, a potentially destructive fungus for apple trees. Consequently, you might want to keep red cedar away from nearby apple orchards. There are many distinct cultivars of Juniperus virginiana, which you might expect given its vast native range. A recent book by Laurence Hatch* does a masterful job of differentiating and describing them. Whatever cultivar you choose, you will be treated to a tough, faithful coniferous companion for many years. *Hatch, L., Cultivars of Woody Plants: Juniperus virginiana and scopulorum, A cultivar.org Garden Monograph, Cary, NC, 2023. Photo Credits: Farmartin, Wikipedia (1), Humoyun Mehridinov, Wikipedia (2)

< Back Spring Garden Prep - Fun Garden Markers January flew by and now we look forward to preparing for our Spring Garden whether vegetable, flower or perennial. As you begin planning for what you will plant in your gardens this Spring or start seeds inside, don’t forget this important element of a successful garden - Garden Markers! Garden Markers do not only serve a purpose in your garden but also let your kids or grandkids be involved as well. Don’t wonder again what is planted in that row or hill. Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener January flew by and now we look forward to preparing for our Spring Garden whether vegetable, flower or perennial. As you begin planning for what you will plant in your gardens this Spring or start seeds inside, don’t forget this important element of a successful garden - Garden Markers! Garden Markers do not only serve a purpose in your garden but also let your kids or grandkids be involved as well. How many times have you looked into your garden and wondered what was planted in this row or that hill? No need to wonder - take time this Winter to prepare simple, but colorful Garden Markers out of simple items you have at home. Garden Markers can be made from rocks, acrylic glue and a coat of varnish, which will allow them to last through the growing season and sustain natures elements like the sun and rain. Follow the steps below to create simple, but colorful Garden Stone Markers which can be used in a vegetable, flower or perennial garden this Spring. Follow the Steps Below: Create a list of the items you will plant this Spring in your garden which will require a marker. Collect small to medium sized rocks (river rocks work best). Rocks can also be purchased at a local craft store or nursery. (For Perennial Gardens you may want to use larger rocks.) Use Acrylic Paints/Brushes or Paint Pens to decorate the rocks and write on the rock the name of the plant (cover all surfaces) Creative ideas - the entire rock can be painted and then the name written; designs can be painted on the rock with the name or simply the name can be written in a creative way Once the Rocks have dried, coat the rocks with a basic clear varnish (the varnish will protect the design/name from the elements) Let all rocks dry and place in a spot inside until needed in the Spring. Photo credits: flickr.com (1,2,3)

< Back The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees By Douglas W. Tallamy, Timber Press, Portland, OR, 2021 Oak trees. Who doesn’t love this bold and majestic tree species in our landscape. In addition to their beauty, oak trees contribute mightily to the health of our environment. To learn more about the mighty oaks, read Douglas Tallamy’s excellent book, ”The Nature of Oaks.” Reviewed by Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Did you know that the seeds we religiously put out for the birds each winter provide scant nourishment for most species? A few, such as doves and finches, are granivores and do just fine. Most birds, however, are insectivores and depend on this supplementation even in winter. So where do all our avian friends get “three hots” in the cold months? Surprisingly, a substantial portion of their winter diet comes from caterpillar stages tucked into the bark of many tree species native to North America. Of these, the oaks are the most efficient in providing larval feed for our feathered friends. Professor Douglas Tallamy provides an in-depth and fascinating account of the massive niche occupied by the various species of oak in the ecology of North America. Tallamy records the activities of the oaks and their many visitors from month to month throughout the year. In addition to being a winter-feeding station for birds, oaks serve numerous insect species as a refuge and feeding reservoir allowing them to complete their varied life cycles and integrate into the complex web of life in the North American woods. Their extensive root system stabilizes the soil and effectively combats erosion. In short, oaks support more life forms and interactions than any other tree species in our northern hemisphere. These giants form a keystone upon which so much of forest life depends. In addition to demonstrating the vital role played by oaks in our ecology, the author provides a useful guide as to which species of oak do best in the varying environments of the US as well as helpful hints in planting and nurturing these invaluable species.

< Back Newby’s Vegetable Garden Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the time when many homeowner’s thoughts turn to gardening. New (or not so new) homeowners may want to start growing their own vegetables but are hesitant because they don’t know how to start. In this clever article, Master Gardener and experienced vegetable gardener, Margie Blare provides loads of good advice to the “Newby” gardener about how to start a vegetable garden. Read this article to start your vegetable gardening adventure. Once upon a time, there was a new gardener named Newby . One day Newby thought, “I would like to have a vegetable garden. Then I’d know where my food comes from and how it was grown. I wonder how I can do that?” With a flash of green, a figure appeared. “I can help!” exclaimed Greenthumb . Newby : “Hi Greenthumb , I have questions like, where should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Choose a spot that gets 6-8 hours of full sun each day. To minimize weeding, consider a raised bed. Keep it simple, perhaps four 2 X 6s nailed together to make a 3 X 8 foot bed. At this width, you can easily reach across it. And, if that spot doesn’t work, you can move it next year.” Newby : “Can I just use the soil from my backyard?” Greenthumb : “It depends! You should get a soil test; watch this video to find out how. Soil tests let you know how much and what kind of fertilizer is needed. It will tell you how much organic matter is in your soil and will give recommendations for healthy plants, with no adverse effects on the environment. You can fill a raised bed with quality soil if your native soil is poor.” Newby : “So, I just put the seeds in the ground?” Greenthumb :” It depends! Some need to be started indoors and others do best when directly seeded.” Read the seed package learn what each type of seeds need. Newby : “When should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Some crops are cool season; such as peas, spinach, lettuce, and many more. Others are warm season; such as cucumbers, beans, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, squash and melons. You need to read the seed package. You can also check out this seed-starting calculator .” Newby : “My neighbor’s tomatoes got all black last year. How can I prevent that?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Check out ‘What’s Wrong with my Plant?’ on the University of Minnesota’s website to find pictures of various diseases and insects that may be affecting your veggies. There are recommendations on what to do. Having good sanitation and plant spacing prevents a number of pest problems. You can also ‘Ask a Master Gardener’ at (612) 301-7590. Leave a message and a Master Gardener will research your questions and get back to you.” Newby : “I heard my neighbor talking about zones. What are they?” Greenthumb : “Plant hardiness zone maps show the temperatures of various places in the state and nation. It is necessary to know your zone when buying small fruits like strawberries and raspberries, and perennial vegetables such as rhubarb, horseradish and asparagus, to make sure the plants you buy can withstand the winters in our area. See the map above to find out your zone.” Newby : “Thanks Greenthumb!” Greenthumb : “Happy Gardening!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1,2,4), Hardiness Map (3)

< Back September - Seed Saving Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Read this article for some tips to help make your seed saving productive! Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Below are some tips to help make your seed saving productive! If you grow to eat the plant, and want to save seed for the next season, make sure you plant extra. Choose to either eat the plant or save the seed, but don’t expect to do both. If the plant you want to save seed from has an ‘F1’ on the label—don’t bother. This is a hybrid plant and you will not get the results you are looking for. Try heirloom varieties instead. Seeds are not created equal. Breeders pick the plant that is most desirable and stands out for a particular trait or traits—the largest, earliest blooming, tastiest, etc., for the next season. Once you have your seeds, go through and separate out the smaller, cracked and/or misshapen seeds. Use the unblemished ‘perfect’ seeds first. Seeds are ready for harvesting once fully ripe—if you pick too early the seed will not germinate. ‘Fully ripe’ for seed harvesting is usually when the plant is almost dead, or the fruit/vegetable is almost to the rotting point, or brown, dry and splitting open. Seeds need to be fully dry before storing for the following year(s). The moisture content needs to be very low, or mold/rotting can occur, spoiling the seed. Storage for seeds should be in breathable envelopes (I use coin envelopes), and kept in a cool dark place. Avoid humidity and damp places. Seeds are viable for a number of years, but it is best to use seed within a year or two of harvesting. There are methods to determine viability for seeds if you have them for longer, but expect the germination rate to drop each year. Self-pollinating plants are great seed saver candidates (think tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas) for beginners. Plants which cross-pollinate are a little trickier to harvest seed from (cucumbers, squash, corn, melons, for example). Extra measures need to be employed to ensure seeds are not contaminated from similar varieties planted too close. Try growing just one variety, or keep similar plants far away to minimize being compromised by wind and/or insect pollination. Seeds from wet, fleshy plants (tomatoes, melons, etc.) are a little more involved than from a seedhead or pod. The seeds are encased in a gooey substance that needs to be removed and thoroughly dried before storing. Just put the seeds in some water and let it rot/ferment for a few days. This helps remove the coating and improves germination. Just rinse and let dry completely and then store as usual. If you would like more information, the book Seed to Seed , by Susan Ashworth, is highly recommended. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: U of M Extension (1, 3), Natalie Hoidal, U of M Extension (2)

< Back November - Creative Uses for Plants Beyond their Prime Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener When we put our Northern gardens to bed for winter, sometimes we just want to be done: move our growing indoors for the winter, or even take a break from growing entirely! But there are fun and useful things we can do instead of just cutting, pulling and tossing into the compost. Plants can provide us with usefulness and beauty even when they are no longer growing. When we put our Northern gardens to bed for winter, sometimes we just want to be done: move our growing indoors for the winter, or even take a break from growing entirely! But there are fun and useful things we can do instead of just cutting, pulling and tossing into the compost. One practical and sustainable use of dead plant material is to use old sunflower stalks for trellises. A traditional teepee trellis is one method to try and you can watch this video from the MI Gardener to see another option. Ornamental uses of last season’s plant material abound! When some of your plants are still holding onto a hint of their fall colors, cut yourself a bouquet. The colors aren’t summery and vibrant, but they are certainly seasonal. Curing winter squash and gourds? Use them as a sunny table’s seasonal decoration. We plant certain varieties of plants specifically for their ‘winter interest’. So why not enjoy the plant indoors in winter too? Dried grasses and seed-heads make a great winter bouquet if harvested before wet winter snows bury them. For more information on preserving plant materials, check out this Purdue University publication . When we winter-prune our shrubs, trees and vines, think ahead to next year before tossing the trimmings. Dogwood branches are the most obvious plant to save for decorative purposes. Their signature red, yellow and even coral branches look great in outdoor winter greenery decorations. They can also be paired with pansies in the spring or included in dried flower arrangements. Use the trimmings from hardy kiwi, clematis, grapevines or other woody vines for wreaths or garden orbs. Check out the U of MN Extension Pruning Guide for more information on when to prune trees and shrubs. Are you ready to look ahead to next year’s plantings with additional uses in mind? Consider planting scarlet runner beans. The beans can be eaten raw when small, cooked once the actual beans have formed and then preserved as dried beans when the growing season ends. You can let the seed pods dry on the vine, but you can also harvest the beans fresh from the pod. Shucking the large beans is especially entertaining for kids as the beans inside are often shades of vibrant pink and purple. When the beans are totally dry, they are black with purple spots! The dried beans can be used as sensory play objects for small children and then planted again the following year. In addition, the vines have seemingly never-ending blooms of red flowers that attract hummingbirds. Plants can provide us with usefulness and beauty even when they are no longer growing. Photo credits: Joanna Kapke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Cat-Grass Learn how to grow your own! Many cats like a little salad now and then – cat-grass that is. Grass is not a necessity if your cat its eating a well-balanced diet. But cats can enjoy it and grass provides environmental enrichment for an indoor cat. With the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener The reasons cats eat grass are not clear. According to Lori Teller, at Texas A&M University, “[o]ne theory is that cat grass is a source of fiber that can either act as a mild laxative or trigger vomiting[.] When cats lived in the wild, they may have eaten grass to trigger vomiting to rid their stomachs of the non-digestible parts of the prey they ingested. It is also thought that the chlorophyll contained in the grass could serve as a mild pain reliever and help keep the cat’s breath fresh.” Regardless of the scientific reason, with the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Kitties are not horticulturists, so left on their own outside, they don’t necessarily distinguish between safe and dangerous plants. [See this list for a helpful list.] But inside, different grasses - rye, oat, wheat, barley, alfalfa, and orchard grass can be grown for cat-grass. Since I have never grown my own cat-grass, I interviewed Brianna Gohde, a Master Gardener from Ramsey County and cat-grass grower. Margie: Where do you get your seed? Brianna: You can buy cat grass seed from most pet supply stores (check the back of the seed packs for grass type(s)) or from reliable seed source catalogs in the “cover crop” or “grains” sections for a specific type. Margie: How do you start cat-grass from seed? Brianna: I treat cat-grass seed the same way I would any other seeds, though I overseed the container so that the plants grow densely. Like with any other plants started from seed, I check the seed pack for seed depth recommendations. I water just enough to keep the soil moist. It’s better to keep it on the dry side to avoid pests. Sticky traps and cats are not a good combination! To keep your cat from knocking over the container, I like to double-pot and use a string to go around both to keep them anchored. The grass grows above the strings, so it doesn’t bother the cat. Margie: Do you have a special set-up to grow it? Brianna: I use generic potting soil and tap water without problems. The grass grows best if it’s in a sunny place. I don’t often put mine under grow lights, but when I have, the grass grows in faster and looks nicer. It takes about two weeks to get tall enough for the cats to be interested in it. Margie: Do you have a favorite variety? Brianna: I have grown wheat, rye and oats. My cats haven’t noticed any difference between the types of grasses. Margie: How long does it last? Brianna: The grass starts looking bad after a couple of weeks of cat attention, but may go as long as a month, with regular care from a human. The cats often lose interest once the grass gets more than 1-foot tall but you can trim the grass down to 6-8” a few times and keep it looking tidy. Some of the grass turns yellow (as older leaves die) and some dies due to overcrowding. Compost it whenever the cat’s attention wavers or it starts looking awful. Hopefully this encourages folks to give it a try. It's a cheap thrill and an easy holiday present for kitties. Try growing this treat for your cat! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1), Brianna Gohde (2,3)