< Back The Magic of Snow Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Nothing beats the beauty of a snow-covered garden. Falling or drifting snow creates interesting sculptures on our benches, arbors, and paths. Evergreens look brighter, and trees with ornamental bark are showing off against a white background. Crowns of sparkling white form on sedum, ornamental grasses, and other perennials we left standing in the garden. Snow is useful to gardeners in other ways, too. Learn more! Making the Most of a Snowy Winter When everything is covered in snow, the landscape is peaceful and still. The snow sparkles, and everything seems clean and pure. Yes, it’s cold! But aside from moving to a warmer climate, we can take advantage of the many benefits snow delivers to Minnesota gardeners. Most importantly, snow cover insulates your valuable plants from wind and sub-zero temperatures. Most winter damage to plants occurs when we don’t have sufficient snow cover. This is especially important for roots, which do not become dormant in the winter as quickly as stems, branches and buds. A good snow cover moderates the temperature of the soil. That’s good, because the roots of most trees and shrubs in Minnesota die at temperatures below 10 degrees. If you planted some new trees, shrubs and perennials this fall, you’ll want to wish for a deeper snow cover to protect those newly-formed roots. Snow also protects plants from the freeze/thaw cycles that heave them out of the ground. This happens because of the way snowflakes are shaped. There are small spaces in each one that are filled with air. As they pile up, the result is low heat conductivity so the daily temperature permeation into the snow is reduced and the plants are protected from really cold temperatures. Snow helps preserve moisture in the soil during winter and provides water to the soil as it melts in the spring. This slowly waters the emerging perennials. Here are some other ways to use the snow: Insulate your garden planters. If you overwinter any potted plants outdoors, shovel or blow snow onto the planters to protect the roots. Snow acts as a natural barrier to shield the ground beneath it from the really cold wind gusts. When it warms up, the snow will melt and act like a slow-release drip irrigation system. Snow insulates your garden planters and moistens the soil as it warms up. Collect snow in rain barrels. As it melts, use it to water spring ephemerals, moisten compost, and incorporate leaf mulch into the soil. It’s free, it’s clean (no chlorine or other chemicals added to our city water), and delivered free to your door. Some people call snow “the poor man’s fertilizer.” As it falls through the atmosphere, nitrogen and sulfur attach to the flakes. When the snow melts, these elements are released into the soil and absorbed by plants. Nitrogen is essential to plant growth. With everything covered in snow, your birdfeeders will lure more birds and other critters closer to your home. It’s easier to see them, too, with a heavy blanket of white in the background. For more information, check out this University of Minnesota resource: Protecting Trees and Shrubs in Winter - Protecting trees and shrubs in winter | UMN Extension Photo Credit: Connie Kotke (1), Mike Darcy, Black Gold (2)

< Back Shrubs With Fall Fireworks Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener As the crisp air of autumn settles over Minnesota, the landscape transforms into a vibrant canvas of fiery reds, golden yellows, and deep oranges. While the towering maples and oaks often steal the spotlight, a stunning variety of fall color shrubs add rich layers and texture to the seasonal display. From the brilliant red foliage of the red chokeberry to deep purple leaves of the Flaviramea yellow stem dogwood, these hardy shrubs not only thrive in Minnesota’s climate but also bring dramatic fireworks of color to gardens, parks, and natural areas. Their dazzling hues and low-maintenance nature make them a must-have for anyone looking to extend the beauty of fall well into the season. Read this article to see which shrubs shine bright in the fall. Cause of color change in fall leaves: Fall color in leaves is driven by three pigments: chlorophyll, carotenoids and anthocyanins. Chlorophyll, the green pigment, is crucial for photosynthesis during the growing season. In the fall, the day length shortens and temperatures cool, which triggers plants to prepare for winter by reducing chlorophyll production. When chlorophyll production stops, the green color fades, revealing the yellow and orange hues of carotenoids. Also, anthocyanins, which give red and purple colors, are produced in late summer and early fall as photosynthesis slows down. Environmental factors, like warm days and cool nights enhance anthocyanin production, leading to vibrant colors. Not every shrub species produces carotenoids or anthocyanins in equal quantities. This is what creates the difference in fall color from species to species: Intensity and duration of leaf color varies with each season : Weather conditions in early fall largely determine the intensity and duration of leaf color. The best fall color shows when days in early fall are sunny and mild, and nights are cool but remain above freezing. Long periods of cloudy, rainy weather or a hard freeze in early fall will mute fall colors. Obtaining a fall shrub fireworks display : Continue to show off your beautiful garden in the fall, after the summer blooms have disappeared, with some of these shrubs: Limelight Hydrangea Chokeberry: Black chokeberry, like the "Viking" variety, yields spectacular, bright red autumn foliage and is known for less suckering, compact growth and large berries after white spring flowers. Note: The chokeberry is considered a good substitute to the burning bush, which is now considered a restrictive noxious weed in Minnesota. https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/burning-bush Redosier Dogwood: The versatile, fast-growing dogwood reveals bright red or yellow stems as the season progresses. Some varieties, like the 'Flaviramea', bring red-purple fall foliage, too. Hydrangea: Choose from many Minnesota hardy hydrangea shrubs that explode with enthusiasm in the summer months and, then, grant us all an encore of mauves, greens and golden-brown flower heads in the fall. ‘Limelight' hydrangea starts with a lime-colored summer display and ends with deep pink as it ages. Staghorn Sumac: This native shrub exhibits bright reds and oranges in the fall and works well in a larger area. ‘Tiger-eyes’ sumac is a smaller selection of staghorn sumac, requiring less space in your garden. It boasts chartreuse green foliage in the spring, yellow foliage during the summer and fiery orange foliage in the fall. Staghorn Sumac There are many more shrubs that provide a pleasing color display in the fall. Maximize the color blast of your Minnesota garden with the endless fall color shrub varieties listed in the sources below. SOURCES: https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-fall-color-faq https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/trees-and-shrubs-great-fall-color https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/black-chokeberry https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/burning-bush https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/redosier-dogwood https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/serviceberry https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/trees-and-shrubs https://extension.umn.edu/news/growing-hydrangea-minnesota https://trees.umn.edu/tiger-eyes-sumac-rhus-typhina-bailtiger Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2), University of Missouri, Integrated Pest Management (3)

< Back Things to Check Out This Spring: What are Buds, Leaves and Blossoms? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Keep an eye out for BUDS, LEAVES, and BLOSSOMS growing on the trees around you. Read on to learn more about these fun signs of spring and some tree education ideas for children of all ages! Your nose may tell you there are blossoms nearby and your ears may hear the buzzing of happy bees enjoying their nectar and pollen. How does the rounded or pointed shape of a bud compare to the flat shape of many leaves? How many different colors and shapes of blossoms can you find on a walk around your neighborhood, or a visit to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum? pussy willow (salix discolor) In spring, trees start to wake up from their winter naps, called dormancy . The days are longer. The sunlight is stronger. The temperatures warm, allowing water to be pulled from the soil into the roots and then move within the tree. The sap starts flowing, full of energy. In a maple tree, we can even use the sap to make syrup for your pancakes. Yum! Sap helps feed the trees too. As the sap carries nutrients throughout the tree, BUDS swell at the end of tree branches - they are gathering energy and getting ready for the new season. Those buds are the beginning of a new leaf or blossom! diagram of a twig with lateral (side) buds and terminal (end) bud A LEAF grows from some buds - this is a flattened structure that has some big jobs: Transpiration: helping the tree to release water vapor and oxygen into the air and take in carbon dioxide. Photosynthesis: taking the sun’s energy and making it into fuel for the tree Shade and shelter: from sun, wind and rain Food: what kind of creatures eat leaves? Some big mammals and small insects like to munch on those tasty treats. 4 leaf Pay attention to the shape and structure of leaves - you can identify the tree by the kind of leaf it grows! Some buds turn into flower BLOSSOMS : their job is to attract pollinators with bright colors and sweet scents! If the pollinators (like bees) can bring pollen from one plant to another, some blossoms will grow into fruit like an apple! apple trees in blossom The University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources has a fun way to identify, different features in tree species. Find more tree identification cards here . card of Black Cherry Tree Ready to read more? Check out some books from the Dakota County libraries about BUDS, LEAVES, BLOSSOMS and more on trees! Here are a few suggestions: National Geographic Kids, Ultimate Explorer Field Guide: Tree by Patricia Daniels The Things That I Love About Trees by Chris Butterworth & illustrated by Charlotte Voake Can You Hear the Trees Talking, Discovering the Hidden Life of the Forest by Peter Wohllenben Nature All Around Trees by Pamela Hickman and Carolyn Gavin Keep an eye on this shrub if you happen to be by the Wescott Library steps - I found some branches with buds just beginning to swell with snow still on the ground this spring! Find some additional resources for tree activities from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources here . But most importantly, get out there with the child in your life and enjoy the spring BUDS, LEAVES, AND BLOSSOMS! Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1,2), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (3), University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources (4,6), Sarah Heidtke (5,7,8)

< Back Now Swaying in the Minnesota Breeze, It’s the UMN Duluth Developed Innovatrees (Poplar Variety) Mary Gadek, Master Gardener University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and give such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of landscape tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast-growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and furnish such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. Characteristics The poplar tree variety is a cross between native Eastern cottonwood and European black poplar. It has been naturally cross bred at University of Minnesota Duluth over 25 years. Landowners can use the tree for privacy screens, wildlife habitat, windbreaks, conservation plantings and firewood. Tree size: Growing 64% faster than similar varieties, the InnovaTree shoots up about 10 feet each year, reaching 35 feet in less than 5 years and a mature height of over 75 feet. Note: Because of its fast growth and aggressive root system, it is best not to plant near power lines, roadways or buildings. Seedless and Cottonless: Unlike standard cottonwood trees, it is cottonless. Leaf retention: Good late-season leaf retention, with yellow fall foliage. Disease Resistance: Resistant to stem canker and leaf disease Non-GMO Will not spread: InnovaTree does not spread by suckering; meaning, you will not have tiny trees growing up from its root system. It is not an invasive species risk. Growing Needs Minnesota hardy for zones 3-6 Light: Full sun Soil: Loves to grow in well-drained loam, sand loam, clay loam and light clay soils Moisture: Will tolerate occasional flooding and drought, but prefers moist, well-drained soil Nursery Locations For current nurseries offering the InnovaTree Poplar Variety, click on this link: https://innovatree.umn.edu/buy For additional information, including commercial applications, see: https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/fast-growing-tree and https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/frequently-asked-questions Photo credit: UMN.edu (1,3)

< Back September - Seed Saving Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Read this article for some tips to help make your seed saving productive! Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Below are some tips to help make your seed saving productive! If you grow to eat the plant, and want to save seed for the next season, make sure you plant extra. Choose to either eat the plant or save the seed, but don’t expect to do both. If the plant you want to save seed from has an ‘F1’ on the label—don’t bother. This is a hybrid plant and you will not get the results you are looking for. Try heirloom varieties instead. Seeds are not created equal. Breeders pick the plant that is most desirable and stands out for a particular trait or traits—the largest, earliest blooming, tastiest, etc., for the next season. Once you have your seeds, go through and separate out the smaller, cracked and/or misshapen seeds. Use the unblemished ‘perfect’ seeds first. Seeds are ready for harvesting once fully ripe—if you pick too early the seed will not germinate. ‘Fully ripe’ for seed harvesting is usually when the plant is almost dead, or the fruit/vegetable is almost to the rotting point, or brown, dry and splitting open. Seeds need to be fully dry before storing for the following year(s). The moisture content needs to be very low, or mold/rotting can occur, spoiling the seed. Storage for seeds should be in breathable envelopes (I use coin envelopes), and kept in a cool dark place. Avoid humidity and damp places. Seeds are viable for a number of years, but it is best to use seed within a year or two of harvesting. There are methods to determine viability for seeds if you have them for longer, but expect the germination rate to drop each year. Self-pollinating plants are great seed saver candidates (think tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas) for beginners. Plants which cross-pollinate are a little trickier to harvest seed from (cucumbers, squash, corn, melons, for example). Extra measures need to be employed to ensure seeds are not contaminated from similar varieties planted too close. Try growing just one variety, or keep similar plants far away to minimize being compromised by wind and/or insect pollination. Seeds from wet, fleshy plants (tomatoes, melons, etc.) are a little more involved than from a seedhead or pod. The seeds are encased in a gooey substance that needs to be removed and thoroughly dried before storing. Just put the seeds in some water and let it rot/ferment for a few days. This helps remove the coating and improves germination. Just rinse and let dry completely and then store as usual. If you would like more information, the book Seed to Seed , by Susan Ashworth, is highly recommended. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: U of M Extension (1, 3), Natalie Hoidal, U of M Extension (2)

< Back Boxelder Bugs Julie Harris, Master Gardener It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. As the weather is growing cooler, have you wondered what are those black and orange (or red), half-inch long bugs clinging in swarms to the sunny side of your house or door? Most likely, they are boxelder bugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed in boxelder and maple trees. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. Boxelder bugs belong to the same family as stink bugs, cicadas and insects with “piercing and sucking mouthparts.” They release a bad odor when crushed. They emerge, bright red, in the spring and feed on female boxelder trees; although they may also feed on maple or ash trees. Boxelder bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. They are not generally harmful but they can be an annoyance. Other than removing your female boxelder trees, the best way to manage boxelder bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment. The best time to spray is late summer and early fall. Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom. Boxelder bugs do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some boxelder bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extenison (1, 2), CooperPest (3)

< Back Rain Gardens Whether you live in a city or along a lake or river, managing storm water run-off is something to consider in your landscape. Read this article to finds ways to do it. Whether you live in a city or along a lake or river, managing storm water run-off is something to consider in your landscape. Roof tops, roads, driveways and sidewalks create impervious surfaces. These surfaces cannot absorb water. If rainwater and snow melt is not able to be absorbed into the soil, run-off occurs. Run-off can carry sediments and pollutants such as oil, pet waste, debris and nutrients from lawn clippings and fertilizers. These pollutants can then end up in our rivers and lakes. Even municipal storm sewers may lead directly to rivers and lakes. Simply put, a rain garden is a shallow depression filled with selected trees, shrubs, flowering plants and grasses designed to allow rainwater run-off to absorb into the soil. Rain gardens help to filter pollutants, absorb nutrients and allow sediments to settle before entering the ground water. Rain gardens are also useful in controlling erosion by trapping and allowing the water to infiltrate rather than run down a slope. Also, rain gardens may add interest and beauty to a landscape, or add elements to attract butterflies and birds. While rain gardens are a popular trend right now, not all landscapes offer suitable sites. There needs to be enough room to allow water to be absorbed into the soil and not seep into a nearby building or basement. Also, if the soil is heavy clay or already saturated ponding may occur; and ponds have a different purpose in the landscape. Some situations can be amended to allow for proper infiltration. In these cases it is best to consult a specifically trained professional. Dakota Soil Water & Conservation District offers Landscaping for Clean Water workshops in rain garden design and implementation. Site selection, size, shape, choosing proper plants and other materials, and maintenance are all topics covered in the workshops. Demonstration sites have been planted as part of previous workshops to show how attractive and beneficial rain gardens may be.

< Back County Hosts Seed Collection for Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers Sam Talbot From backyards to boulevards, native plants are popping up throughout Dakota County. The burgeoning interest from homeowners to include prairie species in their gardens, coupled with incentive programs, such as “Lawns to Legumes” -- has created a novel demand for native seeds and how to grow them. In partnership with Dakota County Parks, Master Gardeners are uniquely poised to help bring pocket prairies to local neighborhoods. As the tallgrasses and wildflowers turned to seed in the fall, volunteers and University of Minnesota Extension staff met in the county parks to operationalize those efforts. Sam Talbot, then a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, joined two groups of Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) in late-September to collect native plant seeds from restored prairies at Lebanon Hills and Whitetail Woods Regional Parks. The first group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park’s Equestrian Trailhead and the other, at Whitetail Woods. In each location, the Master Gardeners—Jo Kapke, Pat Peschman, Roger Grabowski, Robert Hatlevig, Kathy Anderson, Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Pat Ramel, Christina Libaire, Mary Beth Kufrin, Sue Light, Margie Blare, Katie Possis, and Marie Stolte—looked out over tall grasses that swayed hypnotically in a stiff wind. Sam explained that they were looking at some of the county’s earliest restored prairies. They were planted when restoration efforts allowed for seed to be sourced throughout the Midwest. Today, the county collects and uses native seeds from its own remnant prairies (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. Since the seeds from these older restored prairies aren’t used as a source for new restorations, DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the Master Gardeners’ free seed library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow. The rest of the seeds were grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the DCMGV May Plant Sale . Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. Free seed library at Farmington Library In the fall, it’s much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. Sam arrived early and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Cup Plant seeds Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. Wild Bergamot seed heads At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he hosted another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” Photo credit: Dakota County Master Gardeners (1,2), flickr.com (3), Courtney Celley/USFMW (4)

< Back Pet-Safe Plant Choices Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener There are a lot of us in Dakota County and beyond who love both plants and our pets. Not all plants are compatible with the dogs and cats who live with us. Read on to find out about safer plant choices to make for our furry family members - and a few plants to keep away! I adopt new houseplants every year around January. Some fresh green helps me through the winter months - whether I’m expanding my collection or filling in for some plants that weren’t a good match for my environment (Master Gardeners get brown plants sometimes, too!) We have beloved dogs and cats in our family, so we want to make sure any plants we have within reach are going to be safe for our pets. If you are gifting houseplants, it is a good idea to keep in mind all of the household residents who can access the plants! I would recommend leaving any plant identification instructions and labels with the plant. This extra care also includes floral bouquets, so watch for danger there (think lilies, tulips and gladiola as examples). Today, I’m offering some houseplant options that are safer for dogs and cats: 1. Hoya Hearts (Hoya kerrii), just in time for Valentines Day! 2. Boston Fern - Many true ferns are nontoxic. This plant loves humidity and is a great option in a bathroom with a shower. Be careful, though, of plants such as “Asparagus Ferns” (Asparagus densiflorus cv sprengeri), which are not true ferns. These plants are actually related to the lily family - and are not safe for pets! 3. Rubber Plant (Peperomia) 4. Money Tree (Pachira aquatica) 5. African Violets (Saintpaulia spp.) 6. Gerbera Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) 7. Bamboo or Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) - but be careful of Sago Palms (Cycas revoluta), these are very toxic to pets! 8. Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis sp.) 9. Holiday cactus (Schlumbergera) make great year-round houseplants 10. Many other succulents, such as Echeveria and Burro’s Tail are safe options as well. Check out this article from the Minnesota State Horticultural Society for more helpful information: A good general rule with all plants is to know your pets and double check plant labels . I have senior dogs that are more inclined to reach for the peanut butter spoon than any old plant, so I feel comfortable keeping riskier plants elevated and check for fallen leaves regularly. Some common plants in my home that are toxic to dogs and cats are Aloe, Amaryllis, Dieffenbachia, English Ivy, Eucalyptus and Philodendron. If you have a new puppy or kitten that can get to and munch plants in the house, you’ll need to adjust accordingly and stick to safer plants. Most plants can cause upset tummies if ingested or chewed on, but the above options will help avoid some more serious consequences. You can search toxicity by plant on the ASPCA’s website here . If your fur-baby has gotten into something they shouldn’t have, time matters. Here are a few resources if you are concerned your pet has ingested, touched, or inhaled poisonous substances - plants or otherwise: The University of Minnesota School of Veterinary Medicine recommends Pet Poison Helpline. - For general information or just checking, their website has tons of useful information including Top Ten Plants Poisonous to Pets . - For emergency help, you can call them at 855-764-7661 or email at info@petpoinhelpline.com ( please note there is an $85 incident fee applicable in this case ) ASPCA® (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals®) also has a poison control line (888) 426-4435 and some additional resources on their animal poison control website . Check out this website from beChewy and Monrovia for some great outdoor container “recipes” filled with pet-safe plants. They also have great tips on gardening around pets. You and your pets will have a shopping list ready when the weather warms up in the spring. Have fun enjoying your plants and healthy pets! Photo credits: Brooke Nesbitt (1,6), Sarah Heidtke (2,4,5), Wiki Creative Commons (3)

< Back Winter Hardy Cacti in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Cactus – does not only grow in the desert! Who knew? There are cacti that are not only winter hardy, but native to Minnesota? Read on to learn more about how you can grow a cactus garden in your yard. On a cool November day, I found myself standing in front of something I didn’t expect - a cactus garden in Minnesota. This particular garden is a gift from the St. Paul Garden Club and is located right on the University of Minnesota’s St. Paul Campus, outside the Conservatory & Botanical Collection (free and open to the public most weekdays 9am-3pm). According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, our state is home to three native cacti: Brittle Prickly Pear ( opuntia fragilis ). This cactus may develop a pretty yellow flower but the spikes of this plant are not pretty and no fun. Handle with care as the spikes can easily get stuck in your hand. They cactus is easily spread through the fur, feet, or skin of a passing animal as a piece of the plant will tear away - leading to the “brittle” name. The plant will be carried along by the animal and, at some point, dropped to grow in a new location. Plains Prickly Pear ( opuntia polyacantha ). This cactus has longer spines and pretty yellow flowers. It forms a mat that will spread along the rocks and grassland - or in your rock garden. Ball cactus, also called Pincushion cactus ( coryphantha vivipara or escobaria vivipara . ) This cactus is part of the UMN Landscape Arboretum rare species work because the plant and its native habitat are endangered by land use, including granite mining operations. The Arboretum and conservation partners are leading a project to seed bank and translocate seedlings to protected areas. They are creating educational displays at the Arb, and will eventually train local volunteers to take on the responsibility of monitoring these populations. In their native habitats, cacti prefer rocky soil and drier grasslands. In Minnesota, this environment is mostly found in the western counties. Gardeners can mimic these conditions with well-drained soil in raised beds and rock gardens. Amending the soil with gravel can improve drainage. Cacti are able to store water and nutrients for a long time in their stems, which helps them to survive the extreme temperature and moisture conditions found throughout the seasons in Minnesota. Cacti will often grow in crevices and crannies along rock slabs; they use the heat stored in the rocks when the sun shines to help them survive our cold winters. So, if you are drawn the desert look or are looking for a plant that will grow in your rock garden, consider these Minnesota native cacti for your garden. For more information and photos of Minnesota native cacti, including teacher resources, visit https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2024/jul-aug/yn.html For more information about the University of Minnesota CBS Conservatory and Botanical Collection, visit cbs.umn.edu For more information about the Arboretum’s rescue projects and conservation partners, visit https://arb.umn.edu/plant-rescues Photo Credits: UMN Landscape Arboretum (1), Sarah Heidtke (2,3,,4),Peter M. Dziuk, Minnesota Wildflowers https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/pincushion-cactus (5)

< Back Newby’s Vegetable Garden Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the time when many homeowner’s thoughts turn to gardening. New (or not so new) homeowners may want to start growing their own vegetables but are hesitant because they don’t know how to start. In this clever article, Master Gardener and experienced vegetable gardener, Margie Blare provides loads of good advice to the “Newby” gardener about how to start a vegetable garden. Read this article to start your vegetable gardening adventure. Once upon a time, there was a new gardener named Newby . One day Newby thought, “I would like to have a vegetable garden. Then I’d know where my food comes from and how it was grown. I wonder how I can do that?” With a flash of green, a figure appeared. “I can help!” exclaimed Greenthumb . Newby : “Hi Greenthumb , I have questions like, where should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Choose a spot that gets 6-8 hours of full sun each day. To minimize weeding, consider a raised bed. Keep it simple, perhaps four 2 X 6s nailed together to make a 3 X 8 foot bed. At this width, you can easily reach across it. And, if that spot doesn’t work, you can move it next year.” Newby : “Can I just use the soil from my backyard?” Greenthumb : “It depends! You should get a soil test; watch this video to find out how. Soil tests let you know how much and what kind of fertilizer is needed. It will tell you how much organic matter is in your soil and will give recommendations for healthy plants, with no adverse effects on the environment. You can fill a raised bed with quality soil if your native soil is poor.” Newby : “So, I just put the seeds in the ground?” Greenthumb :” It depends! Some need to be started indoors and others do best when directly seeded.” Read the seed package learn what each type of seeds need. Newby : “When should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Some crops are cool season; such as peas, spinach, lettuce, and many more. Others are warm season; such as cucumbers, beans, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, squash and melons. You need to read the seed package. You can also check out this seed-starting calculator .” Newby : “My neighbor’s tomatoes got all black last year. How can I prevent that?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Check out ‘What’s Wrong with my Plant?’ on the University of Minnesota’s website to find pictures of various diseases and insects that may be affecting your veggies. There are recommendations on what to do. Having good sanitation and plant spacing prevents a number of pest problems. You can also ‘Ask a Master Gardener’ at (612) 301-7590. Leave a message and a Master Gardener will research your questions and get back to you.” Newby : “I heard my neighbor talking about zones. What are they?” Greenthumb : “Plant hardiness zone maps show the temperatures of various places in the state and nation. It is necessary to know your zone when buying small fruits like strawberries and raspberries, and perennial vegetables such as rhubarb, horseradish and asparagus, to make sure the plants you buy can withstand the winters in our area. See the map above to find out your zone.” Newby : “Thanks Greenthumb!” Greenthumb : “Happy Gardening!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1,2,4), Hardiness Map (3)

< Back Garden in the Minnesota Winter with “Winter Sowing” Itching to get planting? Even in our cold Minnesota we can start our spring gardens. Winter seed sowing is possible using homemade miniature greenhouses and plenty of snow. Here's how... Linda Stein, Master Gardener What is Winter Sowing? During the winter months we can not only dream about the flowers and vegetables that we want to add to our gardens next spring, but we can also actually start those plants through a process referred to as winter sowing. Winter sowing is a cost effective, low maintenance method of starting seeds in the winter for spring transplant. It is also a wonderful method, for those who have limited space, to start plants indoors since the containers are kept outdoors. Many annual and perennial seeds require a cold period to germinate, a process referred to as hardening. In late summer, these seeds fall to the ground. During autumn, they slowly get covered with leaves and other materials. They then remain in the soil over the winter. Exposure to cold temperatures and moist conditions breaks dormancy and the seeds germinate when temperatures increase in the spring. Winter sowing replicates nature’s process in a controlled environment. A wide variety of plants can be started using winter sowing. These include native plants such as milkweed, purple coneflowers, liatris, penstemon, Black-eyed Susans and perennial plants such as dianthus and phlox. You can also plant cool season annuals, cool season vegetables and a variety of herbs. Creating Your Miniature Greenhouse Plastic containers such as gallon milk jugs or plastic food containers can be used to create a miniature greenhouse that will reside outdoors and act as a house for your plants until they are ready to place in the outdoor gardens. They should have transparent lids so that sunlight can shine through and an opening that will allow rain and snow to reach the soil and the seeds it contains. Ideally the whole container should be transparent. The “greenhouse” needs to be deep enough to hold 2-3 inches of soil and tall enough to allow for a few inches of headspace so the seedlings have plenty of room to grow. B efore planting, thoroughly clean the container. If using a milk jug, discard the cap. Cut around 3/4 of the jug just below the handle so you can fold back the top portion of the jug to plant and make several holes in the bottom of the jug to allow extra moisture to drain. After planting, reposition the top portion of the jug and secure it with duct tape. If using a food container or other plastic container cut holes in the top to allow snow to reach the soil when it’s placed outdoors and cut holes in the bottom for drainage. Fill your container of choice with 2 - 4 inches of potting soil, not gardening soil. Moisten the soil and allow to drain. Planting S ow seeds on the surface of the soil or a depth prescribed for the specific plant. Cover the seeds laid on the surface with a layer of soil and gently pat down. Perennials and hardy annuals seeds require a consistent period of moist, cold temperatures before germination occurs in spring. So, these should be planted in January or February in Minnesota. Tender plants including annuals and vegetables can be sown later in spring (March or April) as they do not require a cold period in order to germinate. Place the container outdoors where it will be protected from strong winds but where snow can reach it. The seeds require the moisture from the rain and snow. They should experience all the weather conditions they would in nature. Forget about your containers until the spring when the seedlings begin to grow and put out shoots. Once these seedlings emerge, monitor often. Even during the cold temperatures, the inside of the milk jug can heat up quickly and cause seedlings to wilt. If this happens, you may need to leave the container opened during the day but closed in the evening. Once temperatures warm up in spring, the top can be removed during the day and then put back on at night. Transplant your seedlings to the outdoor garden when the soil reaches appropriate temperatures for the specific plants you have grown. Have fun winter gardening in Minnesota! References : Winter Seed Sowing, https://extension.illinois.edu/news-releases/winter-seed-sowing Youth Gardening Activities Series, Winter Sowing Seeds, https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/ym105 Staring Seeds in Winter, https://extension.psu.edu/starting-seeds-in-winter Photo credits: Lori Voll-Wallace, Penn State Extension (2), Illinois Extension (1)