< Back Newby’s Vegetable Garden Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the time when many homeowner’s thoughts turn to gardening. New (or not so new) homeowners may want to start growing their own vegetables but are hesitant because they don’t know how to start. In this clever article, Master Gardener and experienced vegetable gardener, Margie Blare provides loads of good advice to the “Newby” gardener about how to start a vegetable garden. Read this article to start your vegetable gardening adventure. Once upon a time, there was a new gardener named Newby . One day Newby thought, “I would like to have a vegetable garden. Then I’d know where my food comes from and how it was grown. I wonder how I can do that?” With a flash of green, a figure appeared. “I can help!” exclaimed Greenthumb . Newby : “Hi Greenthumb , I have questions like, where should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Choose a spot that gets 6-8 hours of full sun each day. To minimize weeding, consider a raised bed. Keep it simple, perhaps four 2 X 6s nailed together to make a 3 X 8 foot bed. At this width, you can easily reach across it. And, if that spot doesn’t work, you can move it next year.” Newby : “Can I just use the soil from my backyard?” Greenthumb : “It depends! You should get a soil test; watch this video to find out how. Soil tests let you know how much and what kind of fertilizer is needed. It will tell you how much organic matter is in your soil and will give recommendations for healthy plants, with no adverse effects on the environment. You can fill a raised bed with quality soil if your native soil is poor.” Newby : “So, I just put the seeds in the ground?” Greenthumb :” It depends! Some need to be started indoors and others do best when directly seeded.” Read the seed package learn what each type of seeds need. Newby : “When should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Some crops are cool season; such as peas, spinach, lettuce, and many more. Others are warm season; such as cucumbers, beans, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, squash and melons. You need to read the seed package. You can also check out this seed-starting calculator .” Newby : “My neighbor’s tomatoes got all black last year. How can I prevent that?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Check out ‘What’s Wrong with my Plant?’ on the University of Minnesota’s website to find pictures of various diseases and insects that may be affecting your veggies. There are recommendations on what to do. Having good sanitation and plant spacing prevents a number of pest problems. You can also ‘Ask a Master Gardener’ at (612) 301-7590. Leave a message and a Master Gardener will research your questions and get back to you.” Newby : “I heard my neighbor talking about zones. What are they?” Greenthumb : “Plant hardiness zone maps show the temperatures of various places in the state and nation. It is necessary to know your zone when buying small fruits like strawberries and raspberries, and perennial vegetables such as rhubarb, horseradish and asparagus, to make sure the plants you buy can withstand the winters in our area. See the map above to find out your zone.” Newby : “Thanks Greenthumb!” Greenthumb : “Happy Gardening!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1,2,4), Hardiness Map (3)

< Back September - Seed Saving Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Read this article for some tips to help make your seed saving productive! Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Below are some tips to help make your seed saving productive! If you grow to eat the plant, and want to save seed for the next season, make sure you plant extra. Choose to either eat the plant or save the seed, but don’t expect to do both. If the plant you want to save seed from has an ‘F1’ on the label—don’t bother. This is a hybrid plant and you will not get the results you are looking for. Try heirloom varieties instead. Seeds are not created equal. Breeders pick the plant that is most desirable and stands out for a particular trait or traits—the largest, earliest blooming, tastiest, etc., for the next season. Once you have your seeds, go through and separate out the smaller, cracked and/or misshapen seeds. Use the unblemished ‘perfect’ seeds first. Seeds are ready for harvesting once fully ripe—if you pick too early the seed will not germinate. ‘Fully ripe’ for seed harvesting is usually when the plant is almost dead, or the fruit/vegetable is almost to the rotting point, or brown, dry and splitting open. Seeds need to be fully dry before storing for the following year(s). The moisture content needs to be very low, or mold/rotting can occur, spoiling the seed. Storage for seeds should be in breathable envelopes (I use coin envelopes), and kept in a cool dark place. Avoid humidity and damp places. Seeds are viable for a number of years, but it is best to use seed within a year or two of harvesting. There are methods to determine viability for seeds if you have them for longer, but expect the germination rate to drop each year. Self-pollinating plants are great seed saver candidates (think tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas) for beginners. Plants which cross-pollinate are a little trickier to harvest seed from (cucumbers, squash, corn, melons, for example). Extra measures need to be employed to ensure seeds are not contaminated from similar varieties planted too close. Try growing just one variety, or keep similar plants far away to minimize being compromised by wind and/or insect pollination. Seeds from wet, fleshy plants (tomatoes, melons, etc.) are a little more involved than from a seedhead or pod. The seeds are encased in a gooey substance that needs to be removed and thoroughly dried before storing. Just put the seeds in some water and let it rot/ferment for a few days. This helps remove the coating and improves germination. Just rinse and let dry completely and then store as usual. If you would like more information, the book Seed to Seed , by Susan Ashworth, is highly recommended. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: U of M Extension (1, 3), Natalie Hoidal, U of M Extension (2)

< Back November - Creative Uses for Plants Beyond their Prime Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener When we put our Northern gardens to bed for winter, sometimes we just want to be done: move our growing indoors for the winter, or even take a break from growing entirely! But there are fun and useful things we can do instead of just cutting, pulling and tossing into the compost. Plants can provide us with usefulness and beauty even when they are no longer growing. When we put our Northern gardens to bed for winter, sometimes we just want to be done: move our growing indoors for the winter, or even take a break from growing entirely! But there are fun and useful things we can do instead of just cutting, pulling and tossing into the compost. One practical and sustainable use of dead plant material is to use old sunflower stalks for trellises. A traditional teepee trellis is one method to try and you can watch this video from the MI Gardener to see another option. Ornamental uses of last season’s plant material abound! When some of your plants are still holding onto a hint of their fall colors, cut yourself a bouquet. The colors aren’t summery and vibrant, but they are certainly seasonal. Curing winter squash and gourds? Use them as a sunny table’s seasonal decoration. We plant certain varieties of plants specifically for their ‘winter interest’. So why not enjoy the plant indoors in winter too? Dried grasses and seed-heads make a great winter bouquet if harvested before wet winter snows bury them. For more information on preserving plant materials, check out this Purdue University publication . When we winter-prune our shrubs, trees and vines, think ahead to next year before tossing the trimmings. Dogwood branches are the most obvious plant to save for decorative purposes. Their signature red, yellow and even coral branches look great in outdoor winter greenery decorations. They can also be paired with pansies in the spring or included in dried flower arrangements. Use the trimmings from hardy kiwi, clematis, grapevines or other woody vines for wreaths or garden orbs. Check out the U of MN Extension Pruning Guide for more information on when to prune trees and shrubs. Are you ready to look ahead to next year’s plantings with additional uses in mind? Consider planting scarlet runner beans. The beans can be eaten raw when small, cooked once the actual beans have formed and then preserved as dried beans when the growing season ends. You can let the seed pods dry on the vine, but you can also harvest the beans fresh from the pod. Shucking the large beans is especially entertaining for kids as the beans inside are often shades of vibrant pink and purple. When the beans are totally dry, they are black with purple spots! The dried beans can be used as sensory play objects for small children and then planted again the following year. In addition, the vines have seemingly never-ending blooms of red flowers that attract hummingbirds. Plants can provide us with usefulness and beauty even when they are no longer growing. Photo credits: Joanna Kapke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Cat-Grass Learn how to grow your own! Many cats like a little salad now and then – cat-grass that is. Grass is not a necessity if your cat its eating a well-balanced diet. But cats can enjoy it and grass provides environmental enrichment for an indoor cat. With the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener The reasons cats eat grass are not clear. According to Lori Teller, at Texas A&M University, “[o]ne theory is that cat grass is a source of fiber that can either act as a mild laxative or trigger vomiting[.] When cats lived in the wild, they may have eaten grass to trigger vomiting to rid their stomachs of the non-digestible parts of the prey they ingested. It is also thought that the chlorophyll contained in the grass could serve as a mild pain reliever and help keep the cat’s breath fresh.” Regardless of the scientific reason, with the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Kitties are not horticulturists, so left on their own outside, they don’t necessarily distinguish between safe and dangerous plants. [See this list for a helpful list.] But inside, different grasses - rye, oat, wheat, barley, alfalfa, and orchard grass can be grown for cat-grass. Since I have never grown my own cat-grass, I interviewed Brianna Gohde, a Master Gardener from Ramsey County and cat-grass grower. Margie: Where do you get your seed? Brianna: You can buy cat grass seed from most pet supply stores (check the back of the seed packs for grass type(s)) or from reliable seed source catalogs in the “cover crop” or “grains” sections for a specific type. Margie: How do you start cat-grass from seed? Brianna: I treat cat-grass seed the same way I would any other seeds, though I overseed the container so that the plants grow densely. Like with any other plants started from seed, I check the seed pack for seed depth recommendations. I water just enough to keep the soil moist. It’s better to keep it on the dry side to avoid pests. Sticky traps and cats are not a good combination! To keep your cat from knocking over the container, I like to double-pot and use a string to go around both to keep them anchored. The grass grows above the strings, so it doesn’t bother the cat. Margie: Do you have a special set-up to grow it? Brianna: I use generic potting soil and tap water without problems. The grass grows best if it’s in a sunny place. I don’t often put mine under grow lights, but when I have, the grass grows in faster and looks nicer. It takes about two weeks to get tall enough for the cats to be interested in it. Margie: Do you have a favorite variety? Brianna: I have grown wheat, rye and oats. My cats haven’t noticed any difference between the types of grasses. Margie: How long does it last? Brianna: The grass starts looking bad after a couple of weeks of cat attention, but may go as long as a month, with regular care from a human. The cats often lose interest once the grass gets more than 1-foot tall but you can trim the grass down to 6-8” a few times and keep it looking tidy. Some of the grass turns yellow (as older leaves die) and some dies due to overcrowding. Compost it whenever the cat’s attention wavers or it starts looking awful. Hopefully this encourages folks to give it a try. It's a cheap thrill and an easy holiday present for kitties. Try growing this treat for your cat! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1), Brianna Gohde (2,3)

< Back There Is Science Behind Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Believe it or not, the snow will melt soon and your thoughts will turn from shoveling to lawn care. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes, to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. The University of Minnesota turf specialists have for years studied various methods of lawn care in order to achieve the best results with the minimal amount of human, water, and fertilizer resources needed. As it turns out, the best time to plant new grass or reseed your lawn is actually in early Fall not Spring. Dethatching and aerating your lawn are also best left for Fall. Spring is the second best time to plant new grass or re-seed your lawn. The U of MN Extension has developed an extremely handy lawn care calendar to make it easier to follow the science behind lawn care. Following this calendar will produce better results with less effort and hopefully, fewer chemical applications. The trick with Spring is practicing patience as you see your lawn emerge from the snow. For example, many people add fertilizer too early in the Spring. This will just encourage the grass to grow when it’s dormant or when growing should be slow. One of the most common Spring problems is grey snow mold. This has the appearance of whitish dead patches. The blades of grass are usually matted down with a fungal fuzz. This disease thrives on extra fertilizer almost as much as the snow so adding fertilizer will make it worse. Instead, to treat snow mold, rake the matted grass in order to allow for additional air flow. It will take time for the fungus to die and the grass to grow back, but generally, a fungicide is not needed. Also note that once the weather has turned warm, don’t spray for weed control. It’s too late and will increase the chance of damaging your lawn. Climate change is having an impact on our environment and one way to help your lawn is to consider adding some fescue grasses to your lawn mix during Fall re-seeding. Kentucky bluegrass is gorgeous but also needs a lot of water compared to fine fescue, for example. Another option is to consider adding a raingarden in order to retain the water runoff in your yard versus the storm sewers. Improved technologies have been developed such as “smart” irrigation controllers, soil moisture sensors and more efficient sprinklers to more effectively manage water use. If you do have a sprinkler system, please check it every Spring by running through a short cycle to make sure the sprinkler heads are in good working condition and not wasting water. The bottom-line is there is science behind lawn care and following a lawn care calendar and best practices can achieve a better result with fewer resources needed. Resources https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar https://extension.umn.edu/news/practice-patience-spring-lawn-care https://turf.umn.edu/help-lawn-water-conservation Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Explore the Virtues of Wild Ginger for your Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Many gardeners love a good cookbook for the bounty we grow. But what about recipes? Now that we’ve rounded the corner from April to May, it’s off to the races, back to the garden centers to do some window shopping and more often than not, bring home a new addition (or 20). As I continue to develop my garden, now entering its 4th growing season, I reflect back on what has worked, what can be removed and gaps I need to fill. This season I am focusing on ground covers, specifically Wild Ginger, which can be added as a beneficial plant, address a difficult site, and create a point of interest in the garden. Note - Wild Ginger is inedible and should not be confused with the Ginger that you might find in a grocery store. This Minnesota native plant has soft, heart-shaped leaves with a smaller heart-shaped cutout where the leaf meets a fuzzy stem. Wild Ginger will grow approximately 8 inches in height, making it perfect to be placed in front of leggy plants and has a spreading nature of approximately 15 inches. Hardy to Zone 2, this tough plant can make it through some of the worst winters and come out the other side healthy and thriving. Wild Ginger does well in both shade and part shade locations making this plant optimal below the canopies of more mature trees or in north facing gardens. Gardeners should use caution though, if planting in a space that receives a lot direct sunlight, as the leaves could burn. Wild Ginger can tolerate some drought but prefers moist, not wet, well-draining soil. A true “set it and forget it” plant, pruning will not be necessary unless you are clearing away dieback or want to create a more compact spread. Wild Ginger is a slow growing plant that spreads underground, through rhizomes. In the early spring, shallow lateral root systems make division and transplanting easy. This versatile plant is used as a unique ground cover that provides many solutions and benefits in a garden. Best Suited Spaces Rain Garden Shade Garden Woodland Garden Native Plant Garden Problem Solver Erosion control on slopes Ground Cover Weed Suppressant Early Pollinator The first thing that caught my eye when I considered Wild Ginger was its attractive spreading nature. If there is one thing gardeners are not fond of, it’s weeds. This workhorse plant will push out competing non-native, invasive spreading plants and weeds, giving you more time to enjoy your garden and less time fussing over uninvited guests. At first glance, you might not suspect that Wild Ginger contributes to early pollination, but it does! Hidden beneath the leaves of this ground cover plant, you will discover a brownish purple jug shaped flower that sits near the base of the plant. This flower can attract some lesser-known pollinators, such as ants and pollinator flies which are looking for food sources as the snow begins to melt. Diversity is the key to a healthy garden. Consider adding some Wild Ginger to your landscape, it will not disappoint, and be sure to check out our article on Gardening in Shade to discover some other shade loving ground cover options. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Wisconsin Extension (2)

< Back Let’s Learn About Evergreens! Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. It would be quite the challenge to be able to identify all 100+ different species of pine, spruce, and fir trees. For now, let’s look at the big categories and the trees native to Minnesota that we see most often. Let’s ask a series of questions to figure out which evergreen we’re looking at. Q: SINGLE NEEDLES OR BUNDLES? How are needles attached to the branch—in small bundles of 2-5 needles or as single needles? A: BUNDLES. We have a pine tree! There are a few kinds we see a lot of in Minnesota. WHITE PINES have 5 needles in a bundle and are long (3-5”). RED PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are long (4-6”). JACK PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are short (1-1.5”). A: SINGLES. We have either a spruce or a fir tree. Let’s ask another question. Q: FLAT OR SQUARE? Pluck off a needle and roll it between your fingers. Is it hard to roll because it’s flat, or do you feel slight ridges as it rolls in your fingers because it’s square? A: FLAT. We have a fir tree. Balsam firs are common Minnesota firs. You might remember this by thinking of Fs: firs are flat and friendly (no sharp tips on the needles). A: SQUARE. We have a spruce tree. There are a variety of spruces, but here are three. WHITE SPRUCES have hairless branches. BLACK SPRUCES have tiny red hairs between needles on their branches. BLUE SPRUCES have needles with a slight blue tinge to the color. DO: Nature Walk and Quiz Go for a nature walk and see how many different kinds of evergreens you encounter. Bring back samples of the different needles or needle bundles that you find. Once you know the trees that each needle comes from, quiz another family member or a friend by laying out all your needles on a table. Can they guess correctly? Source: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back Using the Last Frozen Vegetables to make Tasty Tacos and Springtime Cake Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s May, you may have a few things peeking up in your garden, or maybe you’re like me and nothing is up yet, and nothing is ready for picking. I’m still living off of veggies that I canned, froze or dried last fall. Here is a crowd-pleasing recipe that makes use of my canned tomatoes, frozen corn and ground venison. You can use ground beef or ground turkey too. It also has corn chips on it, and those are a favorite! It’s very easy to freeze fresh tomatoes. Just pull off any stem, wash and put into freezer baggies and put in the freezer. When you’re ready to use them, take them out of the bag and run them under hot water, the skins will peel right off by rubbing them with your thumbs. Cut out the stem spot and chop for your recipe. You’ll have that wonderful garden fresh tomato taste. Corn Bread Taco Casserole Ingredients 2 pounds ground venison, beef or turkey 2 envelopes taco seasoning 2 cups diced canned tomatoes, drained 1 cup water 1 cup cooked rice 1 can (4 ounces) chopped green chiles 2 packages (8-1/2 ounces each) cornbread/muffin mix 1 cup whole kernel corn 1 cup sour cream 2 cups corn chips 2 cups shredded Mexican cheese blend or cheddar cheese, divided 1 can (2-1/4 ounces) sliced ripe olives, drained Topping: Shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes and chopped red onion Directions Preheat oven to 400°. In a frying pan oven, cook venison over medium heat until no longer pink, 8-10 minutes, breaking it into crumbles; drain. Stir in taco seasoning. Add tomatoes, water, rice and green chiles; heat through, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, prepare cornbread mix according to package directions; stir in corn. Pour half the batter into a greased 13x9-in. baking dish. Layer with half the meat mixture, all the sour cream, half the corn chips and 1 cup cheese. Top with remaining batter, remaining meat mixture and olives. Bake, uncovered, until cornbread is cooked through, 55-60 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining 1 cup corn chips and 1 cup cheese; bake until cheese is melted, 3-5 minutes longer. If desired, serve with lettuce, tomatoes and red onion. Char’s Springtime Cake Some of you may have rhubarb peeking up, but due to our very cold early spring, I doubt it’s ready to pick. I had one package of rhubarb left from last fall in my freezer. I pick the last of my rhubarb in the fall just before it frosts and I wash, cut it into small pieces, put it in a freezer container and freeze it until early spring, like now, when I’m dying for a fresh spring taste of something from the garden. This recipe was adapted from one handed down to me from my wonderful step-mom who passed away last August, from COVID. Hers calls for all rhubarb, but since I didn’t have that much in the freezer, I substituted frozen strawberries and blueberries for part of the rhubarb. This was taste tested by family and friends and determined to be a wonderful taste of spring and summer! Directions Blend: 1 c. flour ½ c. butter 5T. powdered sugar Mix and press into a 13x9 pan. Bake for 15 minutes, until golden at 350 degrees. Mix: 3 eggs 2 ½ c. flour ¼ tsp salt ¾ tsp baking powder Add: 1 ½ cups rhubarb cut into small chunks 1 ½ cups sliced strawberries 1 ½ cups blueberries Pour over crust and sprinkle with cinnamon. Bake 40 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with powdered sugar while still warm. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back It’s August - What Can You Find in Your Garden? Julie Henrichs, Master Gardener The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! Before you begin, remember to adjust your exploration so it is age appropriate and safe for all. Scavenger Hunt options are listed below based on a specific type of garden you may have but any can be combined. ( Italic items are more challenging or may require more research for older children. ) Garden Scavenger Hunt Flower Garden/Flower Planters Find a red flower ( Find a salvia bee balm or geranium flower-how many petals are on each stem?) Find a Hibiscus plant ( Are hibiscus in Minnesota considered an annual or perennial? Answer: There are different types of hibiscus. Some are considered tropical and are annuals unless brought inside for the winter. There is also a perennial hardy hibiscus that can be grown in Minnesota Find a fragrant smelling flower. ( Name the flower found. Do you think marigolds have a fragrant smell?) Find an annual plant. Find a perennial plant. What makes each type of plant an annual or perennial? What is a biennial? Answer: Life Cycles = annual-1 year (marigolds, impatiens); biennial-2 years (foxglove, dianthus) and perennial more than 2 years (hostas, daylilies) Vegetable/Fruit Garden Find a green vegetable ( Find a green bean. What is the difference between a bush bean and a pole bean? Answer: Bush Beans=lower and more compact growing plants; larger harvests over a shorter period of time; usually planted in rows. Pole Beans=vining and climbing plant; smaller harvests but extend over entire growing season; need trellis system to grow on) Find an herb ( Identify the herb found and taste it. What can this herb be used for? Answer: Examples - Basil=pesto; Oregano=pizza; Lemon Balm=tea, salads) Pick a ripe tomato ( What type of tomato did you pick? Example-Roma, Cherry, Grape, Yellow) Find an orange vegetable (Examples: peppers, carrots, pumpkins) Find a root vegetable or the tops of a root vegetable ( What is a root vegetable? Answer: the plant parts eaten are underground-examples are carrots, potatoes and radishes.) Bugs and Leaves Find a bug and explain what it is doing ( Identify the bug found - does the bug benefit or harm the garden vegetation?) Find a tomato plant and look for an unhealthy leaf ( What would make my tomato plant unhealthy and what do the leaves tell me? Answer: pests, disease or an environmental problem. Example: Yellowing leaves can mean a nitrogen, iron, magnesium or potassium deficiency or overwatering. Find a honey bee and tell us three characteristics of the bee. Answer: striped abdomen; amber brown color and four clear wings attached to the thorax. ( Why are honey bees important to our garden? Answer: honey bees are essential for pollinating plants) Find a leaf in the garden that has been chewed on by an insect. ( Turn over the leaves, look near the base of the plants for the bug responsible for the chewed-up leaves. Identify the bug.) Getting outside into your gardens are so much more fun when shared with the children in our lives! Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (1), pxhere.com (2,3)

< Back Greek Artichoke Salad Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Get your early lettuce on the table with other yummy vegetables in this recipe for Greek artichoke salad. Add some baking powder biscuits and you have dinner. Lettuce is easy to grow and so fun to pick fresh right before mealtime. Cucumbers might not be quite ready yet, that depends on how early you got them in the ground. If you have early tomatoes and possibly a young pepper, try this fresh take on a Greek inspired salad. Greek Artichoke Salad Ingredients: 1 (14.75-ounce) jar artichoke hearts, drained and quartered 1 large cucumber, halved and sliced 2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges 1 orange or yellow bell pepper, seeded and cubed 1 small red onion, halved and sliced 1 (2.25-ounce) can sliced black olives, drained ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 2 Teaspoons Italian seasoning Lettuce – use a variety of whatever is growing in my garden. Romaine is good along with lighter textured lettuces 1 (4-ounce) container crumbled feta cheese Preparation: In large bowl, combine artichoke hearts, cucumber, tomatoes, bell pepper, onion, and olives. In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar, and Italian seasoning. Drizzle dressing evenly over vegetables in the larger bowl. Cover and gently toss. Allow the veggies to marinate in the refrigerator for 30-60 minutes. Wash the lettuce, pat, or spin dry. On each plate, top a heap of lettuce with lots of the marinated veggies, use some of the marinade as dressing if you’d like more. Top with crumbled feta. If you’re eating light these days, the salad may be enough, but if it’s cool and rainy or you just need a little something more with your salad, here is a basic biscuit that I’ve been making for many years. They always turn out light and flaky due to three tricks: 1) make sure you cut in the shortening with a pastry blender until it’s a really fine texture; 2) make sure to knead the dough gently 10 times and; 3) roll the dough out until it’s ¼ inch thick and then fold it in half. Lightly roll it 2-3 passes before cutting out your biscuits. Baking Powder Biscuits Ingredients: 1/3 cup shortening 1 ¾ cups all -purpose flour (you can substitute up to ½ of the total quantity of flour with whole wheat flour) ¾ teaspoon salt Process: Heat oven to 450. Cut shortening into flour, baking powder and salt with pastry blender until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in just enough milk so dough leaves side of bowl and rounds up into a ball. (Too much milk makes dough sticky, not enough makes biscuits dry.) Turn dough onto lightly floured surface. Knead lightly 10 times. Roll ¼ inch thick, fold in half and gently roll again. Cut with floured 2-inch biscuit cutter. Place on ungreased cookie sheet about 1 inch apart for crusty sides, touching for soft sides. Bake until golden brown, 10-12 minutes. Immediately remove from cookie sheet to a cooling rack. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Know Your Resources “Hey, Siri, what’s the best kind of mulch for my garden?” This is a question often overheard in a plant center from someone trying to make a selection for their yard. And while Siri can give some options, one has to doubt the accuracy of the reply. Questionable advice can always be found somewhere, whether that’s from artificial intelligence or your neighbor’s second cousin on Facebook, but surely there’s a better way to get the most accurate and helpful answers! This article explains how you can find answers to many of your gardening questions from experts and based on research. Read on to learn how to find reliable answers to your gardening questions. Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener For Dakota County gardeners, let’s get better acquainted with two websites: the U of MN Extension site and our Dakota County Master Gardener site. You can bookmark these on your phone, computer, or tablet—and I encourage anyone to do so. You can find hundreds of helpful articles, guides, books, pamphlets, and more, all available for free! Everything is backed by scientific research and all specific to our growing zone and climate. U of MN EXTENSION SITE: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden From this start page, you see several specific guides to get started in the garden and solve common problems. How-To Guides Growing Guides (starting a garden, composting, fertilizing, hydroponics, houseplants, and more) Pollinator Guides Growing Safe Food Soil and Nutrient Health (including information on how to get your soil tested to learn which fertilizers are best for it ) Watering Guides Landscape design Lawn Care (with calendars for when to seed, mow, and more) Find Plants Flowers (annuals, perennials, native flowers) Fruit Houseplants Native Plants Trees and Shrubs Vegetables Weeds (identify weeds and learn control strategies) What’s wrong with my plant? This helps you diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases, or other issues. If, for example, your eggplants look strange in the vegetable garden this summer, look up eggplants in this guide to learn what the issue is and solve the problem going forward. Weeds Identify the weed in your lawn and find the best way to eradicate or manage it. Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers : https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/ On our local Dakota County Master Gardener website, you’ll find a calendar of local events as well as updates on our local projects and other gardening resources. You will also find dozens of articles on a variety of gardening topics (most articles previously found in the Garden Buzz monthly newsletter). You will find articles on what you might be doing in your garden monthly, good gardening tips, features on native and perennial plants and vegetables; recipes using vegetables or fruits from your garden, and tips to deal with problems in or related to your garden. There is a search box to help you find articles by topic. There is also a link to subscribe to our Garden Buzz newsletter. This is a great supplement to the statewide website. Information on Let’s Get Growing (our spring gardening expo) and the Annual Plant Sale in May is there, as well as a list of the farmers’ markets where our Master Gardener Volunteers will be, answering questions and ready to discuss home gardens with all who stop by. Other resources of note: Gardening Projects with Children This section has dozens of project ideas to do with the kid gardeners in your life! Projects are available for all seasons and incorporate science learning and art. Gardening Book Club Recommendations Looking for a book to read with your gardening club? We’ve got you covered with dozens of book reviews on horticultural topics. Finally, a last way to get information on gardening and the Dakota County Master Gardener projects going on all around you is to follow us on Facebook and Instagram . When the U of MN offers free webinars on pollinators or when a garden tour in our area pops up, we’ll be sure to let you know! Photo credits: Photo 1 for newsletter: Credit Paul Wood Photo 2, credit: U of M Extension

< Back Bug Hotels and Pollinator Habitats Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Let’s focus on two insect populations: bees and caterpillars. Bees The majority of flowers and about one third of all crops depend upon pollination. When these populations are threatened, so is food security. For an extreme example, consider the farmers of Sichuan province in China who hand paint pollen onto their fruit trees because insecticides have killed off bee populations. Somewhere between 60-70% of bee species dig burrows in the ground, while the remaining 30-40% nest in cavities such as holes in trees or hollow stems. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: For ground-nesting bees, provide areas in your garden with undisturbed soil, keeping insecticides away. For cavity-nesting bees, leave stems of varying lengths (8-24”) over winter and don’t trim back until after spring. Provide a water source for mud-building bees. For bumblebees who need insulation to build nests, provide a brush pile with sticks and leaves. Consider a bug hotel to provide more spaces for cavity-nesting bees—you can build one yourself or find a ready-made bug hotel for purchase. Caterpillars While most gardeners love bees, caterpillars are often seen as a problem in the garden—and for a good reason. Hornworms decimate tomato plants and cabbage loopers devour all sorts of edible greens. However, entomologist and conservationist Doug Tallamy argues that since caterpillars dominate the nesting diets of the majority of birds, these insects are necessary for healthy bird populations. For example, 75% of the food chickadees bring their young is caterpillars. While some caterpillars eat a variety of plants and can be considered generalists, many caterpillars are specialists that only eat one particular plant. Monarch butterflies, of course, rely upon milkweed flowers alone, while goldenrods are eaten by 80-plus different kinds of caterpillars. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: Go to Native Plant Finder ( https://www.nwf.org/NativePlantFinder/Plants/Flowers-and-Grasses ) to look up which flowers best attract beneficial caterpillars in your area as generalists. Consider specialist caterpillars you want to attract and plant the flower or tree they rely upon. Convert some of your lawn to native wildflowers and grasses. If you don’t have a lawn, try a container garden of native wildflowers. Add a bed of native wildflowers and grasses below any trees that host caterpillars; this provides a soft, protected space for the caterpillars’ transformation. Use mosquito dunk tablets instead of mosquito sprays to control those populations. Even sprays that say they only target mosquitos have been shown to hurt other insects. For More: Bee Lab (University of Minnesota). https://beelab.umn.edu Davies, Dave. “The World's Insect Population Is in Decline—And That's Bad News for Humans,” Fresh Air , (February 24, 2022). https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2022/02/24/1082752634/the-insect-crisis-oliver-milman Habitat Installation Guide: Upper Midwest. Xerces Society. https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/15-042.pdf Homegrown National Park. https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ Millman, Oliver. The Insect Crisis: The Fall of the Tiny Empires That Run the World. New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company, 2022. Native Plant Finder. https://www.nwf.org/nativeplantfinder/ Photo Credit: John McLinden ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/fogey03/34605941461 ) (1)