< Back Learn to Identify Garden Insects – Good and Bad Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener We know that most insects in our garden are beneficial. But when we find insect damage on our beloved flowers, vegetables and fruits, it’s hard not to focus on the damaging insects. A good gardening practice is to keep abreast of the latest research on how to attract good insects and adopt pest management practices to minimize damage from the “bad” insects. By seeking out research-based information on good and bad insects, you can learn about potential damage and a range of control options to make well-informed decisions about managing the pests in your Minnesota garden. Read this article to learn more about good and bad insects and how to tell the difference. Some common pests and how to identify them Leaf Lily Beetle While inspecting my garden in late May, I noticed holes in the Asiatic lily leaves and some red beetles. I confirmed the insect to be a Leaf Lily Beetle, a non-native pest. I learned most of the damage is done by the larva so I inspected the lilies again. As expected, I found muddy brown globs. I cleaned the larva off, removed the beetles and limited further damage by frequent inspection and manual removal of the pest. Leaf Lily Beetle Check out the following articles to learn more about this pest, its lifecycle and control options: Minnesota State Horticulture Society: Scarlet Lily Beetle Infestations Minnesota Dept. of Agriculture (MDA): Lily Leaf Beetle University of Utah: Lily Leaf Beetle Cabbage Worm While working with master gardeners at a local vegetable trial garden, I learned that each year the cabbage is damaged by caterpillars. The first sign of the pest in the garden is a white butterfly with a black spot on each wing. The butterfly and the larva are a match to the imported cabbageworm. Cabbage worm This pest can be difficult to control manually once established and the damage reduces the amount of usable produce. To attempt to control the pest this year, we installed a mesh cover over the cabbage when the small plants were transplanted into the garden. The intent is to minimize damage with early intervention so that the butterflies are not able to lay their eggs. The results for this year are pending but sometimes a new approach is worth trying. Check out the following articles to learn more about common vegetables pests, lifecycles, expected damage and control options from the UMN Extension: Caterpillars on Cole Crops Cropping Calendars for Cruciferous Vegetables, and Pumpkin and Squash under Common insects in vegetable crops Fruit and vegetables crop insects Shrub Rose Pests Three pests attack my shrub roses every year. The damage starts in early May with white spotting on the lower leaves, an indication of sap sucking - Rose Leafhopper . Rose Leafhopper and leaf damage In June I observe green caterpillar-like larvae munching on the leaves - the Rose Sawfly larva (also known as Roseslug ). Leaf damage from Rose Sawfly Adult Rose Sawfly In late June, beetles can be seen destroying the rose blooms - the Japanese Beetle . Japanese Beetle Despite all of this pest activity, the roses can be enjoyed most of the season with some manual control. I squash the leafhoppers early if there is significant damage. I watch for the appearance of the Roseslugs and squash them or drop them into soapy water. This year I also began looking for the sawflies to see if I could disturb them and prevent them from laying their eggs and thus minimize the Roseslug problem. The Japanese beetles are the most destructive and because they are relentless, I knock them into soapy water as frequently as is feasible. The best news is that the pests are mostly gone when the roses bloom a second time in late summer. Check out the following articles to learn more about rose pests, lifecycles and control options: Sawfly and its larvae , Roseslugs are located under Deciduous Trees and Shrubs.(UMN Extension) Rose pests . (UKY, includes Japanese Beetle, Roseslug, Rose Leafhopper and others) What about the good insects? The insects that damage our plants grab our attention but we need to remember that most insects in our gardens are beneficial and play a vital role in the ecosystem. Insects pollinate a wide variety of fruits, nuts, vegetables, and native plants. Insects also decompose plant and animal material, are used in medicine and research and they are an essential food source for many birds, mammals and other insects. An apple exists only when the flower is pollinated. A butterfly exists only when the caterpillar is allowed to mature to adult stage, with essential food sources and the correct host plant. Pollinators Insects that pollinate include wild and domesticated bees, flies, wasps, moths, butterflies and more. Did you know that flies are second to bees in pollination? The syrphid fly appears to be a small bee but is actually a “hover fly” that moves about quickly and feeds on nectar and pollen. I found this pretty little fly hovering and feeding on cranesbill geranium, shrub rose and columbine flowers in my garden. Look for it! Unlike bees and wasps which have two pairs of wings, the syrphid fly has a single pair. It does not sting or bite. Syrphid fly Butterflies are incredibly beautiful and fun to watch, make it your goal to learn about some new butterflies to attract to your garden with nectar and larval host plants for butterflies. Butterfly Gardening . (UMN Dept. of Entomology) Monarch Bumblebees are a joy to watch in addition to the serious pollination work they do. This UMN BeeLab page includes a field guide to identify Minnesota Bumblebees . Bumblebee Predators Some insects are beneficial because they feed on other insects and frequently it is not the adult that provides the most benefit. This is why understanding the insect’s lifecycle and what it looks like in different stages can help us better appreciate their value. Lacewings, in their wingless immature state, eat other insects. Lady beetles are beneficial because they feed on insects, nectar and pollen. Asian lady beetles are a bit larger and are a nuisance if they get in your house, but they are otherwise beneficial because they also feed on soft body pests. Both types have alligator-like larvae, quite different from the domed, hard, round to oval shaped adult beetle. Wasps . There are many types of wasps that help control garden pests. For example, the parasitoid wasp is beneficial because it lays its eggs on pests such as the aphid or imported cabbage worm, to feed on the host. These wasps are tiny so don’t expect to identify them but you may see small eggs or larva on the host. The Syrphid fly is not only a pollinator but also feeds on small insect pests. For more on these and other beneficial insects in Minnesota: UMN extension Beneficial Insects . Tips for successfully identifying good and bad insects In order to know whether you need to take steps to control an insect, you need to successfully identify it. Try this process: Observe Be proactive by inspecting plants and watching for insects when they are expected to appear. Gather Information Take a picture please! This will help you recall details when doing your research What type of insect? Does it appear to be a beetle, butterfly or moth, caterpillar, grub or other? Note size, color, markings, # of wings, etc. Where did you find it? Insect pests tend to be specific to certain plants. Is it on a plant or in the soil? Is there any feeding damage? Sometimes you will have to rely on the damage to do your inquiry when the insect is not present. What time of year is it? Insects emerge at different times of the year, some have annual cycles, others have multiple cycles in one season. Take the information you have gathered and go to reputable sources to identify the insect and how to manage it. Search within the UMN Extension site or another known research-backed site. For a list of Helpful Apps for identifying insects, open the “How to Control Specific Pests” header on UMN Extension Preventing pests in your yard and garden page. Other Resources for assistance: Ask a Master Gardener and Yard and Garden News Anticipate and Plan Accordingly When you’ve learned the lifecycle and the best time to interrupt the lifecycle, you can be more strategic about solving a problem. Keep up the good gardening! We all strive for a beautiful flower garden and healthy fruits and vegetables. So, it is important to identify and control threats from damaging insects early. Try to develop a more observant eye and know when to look; anticipate and plan accordingly. Get to know good insects, learn to attract and protect them! Many resources are available to help you satisfy your curiosity about an insect, or help you solve a problem. But don’t hesitate to ask for help if you get stumped. Additional References on Pollinators Did you know that 70% of native bees nest in the ground: 5 ways to Increase nesting habitat for Native Bees . (Xerces Society) Vegetable Garden Best Management Practices (BPM) for Pollinators including a list of recommended garden plants to support pollinators. An example of a best practice is to plan your garden with flowers, veggies, herbs and fruits intermixed. (UMN) Current status on pollinators and what you can do for them. (MDA) Create pollinator friendly habitat with the Lawns to Legumes program . (The Minnesota Board of Water and Soil Resources) Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1, 3, 7, 8), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 4, 5, 6, 9)

< Back The Sensory Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Memories are often tied to our senses and for many of us, our first or favorite memories occurred in a garden. This article will discuss how to create a sensory garden that will enliven the senses, spark old memories, and hopefully make some new ones for first time visitors. For me, the smell and taste of chives brings up one of my first memories. As a toddler, I would walk around my parent’s vegetable garden and happily munch on a chive that my father handed me as he scanned the garden for ingredients to use in our dinner. The smell of a tomato vine brings me back to when I would visit my grandparents and was asked to go harvest a few tomatoes for the salad we were going to have for lunch. The sound of wind moving through trees, or a slow-moving creek reminds me of time spent playing in a forest, completely carefree. A sensory garden can be any size and can be created all at once or in stages. Let’s explore the different senses and what we can add to our gardens to create a unique sensory experience. Taste Herbs can be started from seed or purchased as mature plants and can be grown in either your garden or in a pot. Here are a few examples of plants that will bring taste into your garden space. Herbs: Basil, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Oregano, Cilantro Vegetables: Carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, spinach, kale, squash, radish Touch Focus on different textures that you can incorporate into your space. Lambs Ears: a favorite among children Succulents : these can be kept in pots or grown in your garden (some are Minnesota hardy!) Feathered Grasses: run your fingers through the grasses as you walk through your garden Spongy Moss: resilient, unique texture Tree Bark: smooth, peeling or textured Smooth Rocks: stepping stones Tactile Elements : pots, planters, ornaments Smell Some plants give off a beautiful fragrance when the wind comes through or when you brush past them on a walk. Even something as simple as fresh cut grass can be counted as an element within this sense. Lavender: the aroma can help soothe and decrease stress – it is also a great pollinator Herb garden: rosemary, mint, basil, and many others can produce a scent when you rub your hands over the leaves Creeping Thyme: you can release the scent of this plant either by rubbing the leaves between your fingers or by stepping on them as they are often used as a ground cover plant Sight One of the greatest rewards in gardening is being able to sit back and observe a space that you’ve created. There are several ways to bring your garden alive that can be enjoyed through each season. Spring & Summer Different types of bird food and feeders will attract a variety of birds A bird bath or water source with the sound of running water will attract birds Milkweed will attract Monarch Butterflies to your yard and if you’re lucky, they will lay eggs on this plant. Some other plants that attract Monarch Butterflies include: Goldenrod, Butterfly Bush, Cosmos, Lantana, Lilac, Zinnia, Asters, Purple Coneflower, Yarrow and Coreopsis Plant climbing plants over arbors and trellises Include plants with different textures and variegation Incorporate a bench to observe your garden Fall & Winter Some native grasses, like Little Blue Stem, will move from green to blue in the summer and then to red in the fall Burning Bush is another plant that will signal the changing season, becoming a vibrant red in fall As the days get shorter, Autumn Joy Sedum will bring a rosy, pink shade into your garden Enjoy the bright red branches of a Dogwood shrub throughout the cold, gray winter months If you have hydrangeas that bloom on new growth, consider leaving their stems and flowers intact throughout the winter for additional winter interest Sound Sound can be added or attracted to your garden. Water Feature: this will create the sound of water and will also attract birds looking for a place to get a drink and to splash in a bath Beneficial Insects: planting pollinator plants will attract busy buzzing bees as well as other pollinators throughout growing season Ornamental Grasses: wind will move through the grass creating movement and a soothing sound Bird Feeders: attract songbirds by offering a variety of seed mixtures Gravel Paths: listen to the crunch of the gravel as you walk the path through your garden Wind Chimes: add a windchime to your garden to create a beautiful tune as a summer breeze blows through The benefits of creating a sensory garden go far beyond simple enjoyment. These gardens are good for sensory stimulation and development, have calming effects, encourage curiosity and allow for reflection and stress reduction. As Master Gardeners we look for ways to engage with our community and their love of gardening. Master Gardeners have created a program called “Growing Connections” that works hand in hand with the Alzheimer’s Association and focuses on sensory gardening activities. Check out our website for information about Master Gardener events and programs. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back It’s August - What Can You Find in Your Garden? Julie Henrichs, Master Gardener The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! Before you begin, remember to adjust your exploration so it is age appropriate and safe for all. Scavenger Hunt options are listed below based on a specific type of garden you may have but any can be combined. ( Italic items are more challenging or may require more research for older children. ) Garden Scavenger Hunt Flower Garden/Flower Planters Find a red flower ( Find a salvia bee balm or geranium flower-how many petals are on each stem?) Find a Hibiscus plant ( Are hibiscus in Minnesota considered an annual or perennial? Answer: There are different types of hibiscus. Some are considered tropical and are annuals unless brought inside for the winter. There is also a perennial hardy hibiscus that can be grown in Minnesota Find a fragrant smelling flower. ( Name the flower found. Do you think marigolds have a fragrant smell?) Find an annual plant. Find a perennial plant. What makes each type of plant an annual or perennial? What is a biennial? Answer: Life Cycles = annual-1 year (marigolds, impatiens); biennial-2 years (foxglove, dianthus) and perennial more than 2 years (hostas, daylilies) Vegetable/Fruit Garden Find a green vegetable ( Find a green bean. What is the difference between a bush bean and a pole bean? Answer: Bush Beans=lower and more compact growing plants; larger harvests over a shorter period of time; usually planted in rows. Pole Beans=vining and climbing plant; smaller harvests but extend over entire growing season; need trellis system to grow on) Find an herb ( Identify the herb found and taste it. What can this herb be used for? Answer: Examples - Basil=pesto; Oregano=pizza; Lemon Balm=tea, salads) Pick a ripe tomato ( What type of tomato did you pick? Example-Roma, Cherry, Grape, Yellow) Find an orange vegetable (Examples: peppers, carrots, pumpkins) Find a root vegetable or the tops of a root vegetable ( What is a root vegetable? Answer: the plant parts eaten are underground-examples are carrots, potatoes and radishes.) Bugs and Leaves Find a bug and explain what it is doing ( Identify the bug found - does the bug benefit or harm the garden vegetation?) Find a tomato plant and look for an unhealthy leaf ( What would make my tomato plant unhealthy and what do the leaves tell me? Answer: pests, disease or an environmental problem. Example: Yellowing leaves can mean a nitrogen, iron, magnesium or potassium deficiency or overwatering. Find a honey bee and tell us three characteristics of the bee. Answer: striped abdomen; amber brown color and four clear wings attached to the thorax. ( Why are honey bees important to our garden? Answer: honey bees are essential for pollinating plants) Find a leaf in the garden that has been chewed on by an insect. ( Turn over the leaves, look near the base of the plants for the bug responsible for the chewed-up leaves. Identify the bug.) Getting outside into your gardens are so much more fun when shared with the children in our lives! Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (1), pxhere.com (2,3)

< Back American Holly (Ilex opaca): Deck the Halls! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener American holly is a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes. But this tree is also a great year-round addition to the landscape. Read this article to learn why. It may be August but I’m getting stoked up for the Holidays, thinking about American holly ( Ilex opaca ), a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes although this tree is a great year-round addition to the landscape. American holly grows to a height of 15 to 30 feet. Native to the Eastern Coast and nearer Midwest, northern cultivars have spread across Iowa and up into Southern to Central Minnesota. When purchasing American Holly, do be careful to select a cultivar that has proven its hardiness in the Midwest. If you have any questions about that, you might consult the website of the Dawes Arboretum in Columbus, Ohio. They have an excellent collection of over 200 cultivars adapted to the Midwest. Mature American holly When selecting your specimen, you must be mindful that American Holly is dioecious. In other words, there are boy trees and girl trees. So, a male tree must be in the neighborhood for female trees to produce fruit. There are a number of hybrids available commercially. They do grow more rapidly than the native variety. However, they are far less hardy. A severe Minnesota winter can reduce their leaves to a dingy brown, not so festive for Christmas. If you are patient, the native cultivars will slowly grow and demonstrate remarkable hardiness. A few points for siting should be kept in mind. American holly is hardy only to Zone 5. So, in Minnesota it is best to select a protected site from the winter winds. Also, it requires full sun to part shade to thrive. Our hot summers can also affect the tree, so it’s best to site is where it enjoys the afternoon shade. Well-drained soil is a must. It does best in a neutral to acid soil, so amendments should be made if your soil is alkaline. fruit of the female tree If care is taken and patience exercised, American holly will provide great rewards. This stately and colorful tree will bring joy and lift the spirits for many a Holiday Season. Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)

< Back October - “Fall”ing for Compost Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Supplies Needed : Large Plastic Water/Pop Bottle or Comparable Container Utility Knife, Push Pin/Tack or Small Nail Small Dish or Tray to set Bottle into Greens (ex. vegetable and/or fruit food scraps, non-fertilized grass clippings) Browns (ex. sticks, leaves, sawdust, pine needles, clean cardboard) Spray Bottle with Water Long dowel, long handled Spoon or Narrow Trowel Sunny spot - on shelf, counter, windowsill Patience Composting is a natural way of helping the environment using our home and garden waste to create compost that can be used in our gardens and plantings. By placing waste items together (greens & browns) and allowing them to break down or decompose we help to cut down on the food and yard waste scraps we throw away on a day-to-day basis. Composting also provides wonderful benefits as a gardener as a way of natural recycling…turning items we typically would throw away and turning them into usable soil for our future plants. Starting small and educating our “Little Sprouts” about the importance of the how-to’s of composting and letting them create their own compost container benefits us all. If using a large plastic water/pop container, please have an adult cut the top of the bottle off just as it begins to round downward. Next, if age appropriate, allow your “Little Sprout” to use the pin/tack to push through the bottom of the bottle/container to make a few small holes. If the plastic is too thick or the child is too small, please have the adult place holes in the bottom of the container. A small dish or tray will catch any moisture that escapes from the bottom. What about the browns and greens? Composting is like cooking with a recipe. Just like when baking cookies, various ingredients are needed and the same is true with creating a successful compost. To create a successful compost both greens and browns are needed in addition to water and the natural process of decomposition. “Greens” are simply the moist ingredient that provides nitrogen and moisture that helps things grow. Greens include fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, coffee and tea grounds and eggshells. Yes - “Greens” don’t necessarily need to be green. “Browns” are the items we add to the compost that provide air pockets in the pile, increase bulk and are full of carbon. The brown items include dry leaves, cardboard and plain paper (no shiny paper, tape or printing on cardboard), non-died wood chips, twigs, sticks, sawdust and pine needles. Again, all materials don’t necessarily need to be brown, but for the most part browns are brown. What not to use in my home compost: dairy, fish, meat and fats should be avoided. Next is the real fun…layering the browns and greens (In a larger compost bin the ratio of browns to greens is 2-1, but in our small compost bin just try your best.). The container used does not have to be filled to the top in that composting is about adding layers as you go and as you produce green and brown compostable items. In the container place brown materials first. Spray the layer lightly with water and then proceed with a green layer followed by another brown layer. Spray a light mist and place another green layer followed by brown. Repeat until you have filled your compost bin to the top or have decided to stop. Don’t forget to mist the brown layer each time. Once you have reached the level of compost in the container, place it in a sunny location. As the elements added decompose with the help of good bacteria and fungi, you will begin to see the actual breakdown of the elements involved. But your “Little Sprouts” job is not done. The compost needs to be turned so take a small dowel, trowel or spoon and turn the compost. Turning the compost can take place every 2-3 days. The slow process of decomposing takes time so be patient. It can take months for the greens and browns to turn into the perfect compost, but it is worth the wait. When the product being created is a dark color, falls apart and smells like soil, then your compost is ready. Remember, greens and browns can continually be added to the container so keep it up. Overtime, wonderful compost will be created and can be used in your garden or around your flowers. Happy Fall Composting! Photo credit: pexels.com (1,2,3)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.

< Back Turkey Wild Rice Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s chilly outside and a bowl of rich, warm Minnesota style soup along with flavorful sides will certainly warm you up. Luckily, Joy Johnson has provided a luscious recipe for wild rice soup made with Minnesota grown wild rice. If you had Joy’s foresight, you could add dried parsley to the soup and roasted sweet potatoes from your storage cabinet. Hungry yet? Read on to learn how to warm your kitchen (and tummy) with these recipes. It’s chilly outside and a bowl of rich, warm Minnesota style soup along with flavorful sides will certainly warm you up. The soup can be made with any type of milk, including non-dairy. I love using Minnesota grown wild rice, it is so flavorful and has a wonderful texture. Make sure to thoroughly cook it following package directions. I don’t have anything growing in the garden right now, but I do have delicious turkey stock and cut up turkey meat, both light and dark, frozen from the holidays. I dried a lot of parsley prior to frost, so that can be added to the soup too. I have fresh sweet potatoes from the garden stored and I’ll roast those to serve along side this soup. A cold turkey croissant sandwich with fresh greens is one of my favorites. A very special treat for this meal, is my daughter’s home-made goat milk cheese. It has a sharp pungent flavor and is delicious atop a nutty cracker with a dollop of cranberry sauce. Ingredients ½ cup butter cubed 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 celery ribs, finely chopped 1 medium onion, sweet white, chopped ½ cup all-purpose flour 4 cups turkey broth (or chicken) 2 cups wild rice, cooked 2 cups cubed cooked turkey 2 cups half-and-half cream 1 teaspoon dried parsley flakes 1.2 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper Process In a Dutch oven, heat butter over medium-high heat. Add carrots, celery and onion; cook and stir until tender. Stir in flour until blended; cook until bubbly. Gradually stir in broth. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly; cook and stir 1-2 minutes or until thickened. Stir in remaining ingredients; return to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Roasting Sweet Potatoes Ingredients 4 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup honey 2 teaspoons ground Cinnamon Salt Process Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Lay the sweet potatoes out in a single layer on a roasting tray. Drizzle the oil, honey, cinnamon, salt and pepper over the potatoes. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes in oven or until tender. Take sweet potatoes out of the oven and transfer them to a serving platter. Drizzle with more extra-virgin olive oil. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back Get to Know our Minnesota State Bee Susan Light, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that the Minnesota state bee is the rusty patched bumble bee? This designation is intended raise awareness about the role of pollinators in Minnesota’s environment and preserving their habitats. Unfortunately, while historically, our state bee appeared widely in North America, it is now on the endangered list. In this article read more about the rusty patched bumble bee and the important role that you can play in Garden Scavenger Hunt preservation efforts. Our state bee, the rusty patched bumble bee (Bombas affinis) is disappearing just as we are getting to know it. Historically, the rusty patched bumble bee was broadly distributed across the eastern United States and upper midwest, as well as in southern Quebec and Ontario Canada. In 2017 the federal government listed it as endangered because their numbers had dramatically declined. There are still pockets of the rusty patched bee in Minnesota and Wisconsin and a few other states. There have been a good number of them reported by citizen scientists in and around the Twin Cities since they were listed as endangered. August and September is a good time to look for the rusty patched foraging worker bees. The exact cause of the decline is unknown, but evidence suggests an interaction between an introduced pathogen and exposure to pesticides, specifically insecticides and fungicides. Habitat loss and degradation also play an important role. As bumble bee habitats become increasingly fragmented due to urban development, the size of each population diminishes and inbreeding becomes more prevalent. Inbred populations of bumble bees show decreased genetic diversity and increased risk of decline. The rusty patched bumble bee is a social species with an annual cycle that starts in early spring when colonies are initiated by solitary queens that emerge from overwintering sites. The queen bee is the only bee that survives the winter. The cycle progresses with the production of workers throughout the summer, and ends with the production of males and new queens in late summer and early fall. Survival of the rusty patched bee and other bumble bee species require food (pollen and nectar) from abundant floral resources from April through October, undisturbed nesting habitat near floral resources and overwintering habitat for the next year’s queens. Two features distinguish the rusty patched bumble from other bumble bees: The rusty patched has a rust or brown or orange colored patch on the second segment of the abdomen going about halfway back. The hairs on the first segment are yellow. The other segments are covered with black hair. The hairs on the thorax of the rusty patched are yellow with a T-shaped area of black hairs. The rusty patched bumble bee is unique among North American bumble bees in that the queens have a different color pattern than the workers. The queens, which are usually only seen in the spring and fall, do not have a rusty patch or a black thumb-tack on their thorax. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service finalized the recovery plan for the rusty patched bumble bee in 2021. Recovery and conservation of this bumble bee isn’t possible without partners. Municipalities and private property owners play a crucial role in conservation efforts. You can play an important role. Provide habitat - Rusty patched bumble bee nests are typically 1 to 4 feet underground in abandoned rodent nests or other mammal burrows. Leave some small areas in your yard bare for the queen bees to start their nest in the spring. Don’t use pesticides if you want to encourage bumble bees to nest in your yard. Plan your garden to provide a diversity of native plants so you will have flowers that bloom during spring, summer and fall. For example, In the spring, the queen bee emerges to look for nectar and pollen from flowers like virginia bluebells, blood root, wild geraniums, golden alexander and pussy willow. She will search for a nest close to a diversity of food resources. Some summer flowering plants that support rusty patched workers are large beardtongue, slender beardtongue, hyssop, spiderwort, figwort, and butterfly milkweed. In the fall, the star flowers are goldenrods and asters. For more information on this endangered bee and other Minnesota native bees, go to the terrific new website bees mn.org There you will find close up photos of all the MN native bees, to help you ID them in your yard or nearby park. You’ll learn about the flowers they use, their nests, and life cycles. You can also find out how you can be involved in the MN State Bee conservation initiatives. Photo Credits : iNaturalist (1), www.fws.gov (2), University of Minnesota BeeLab (3)

< Back The Effects of Drought on Trees Lisa Olson, Master Gardener I have heard it said tongue in cheek that Minnesota’s average weather is the midpoint between two ridiculous extremes, because when we talk about averages, it can be misleading. Sometimes it happens that one huge deluge of rain will offset a long dry spell, at least on paper, where the average rainfall for the month or year may appear as normal in the record books. But those long drought periods are not so easily erased in the lives of the trees. According to the US Forest Service, healthy trees mean… Healthy people: 100 trees remove 53 tons of carbon dioxide and 430 pounds of other air pollutants per year. Healthy communities: Tree-filled neighborhoods lower levels of domestic violence and are safer and more sociable. Healthy environment: One hundred mature trees catch about 139,000 gallons of rainwater per year. Homeowner savings: Strategically placed trees save up to 56 percent on annual air-conditioning costs. Evergreens that block winter winds can save 3 percent on heating. Better business: Consumers shop more frequently and longer in tree-lined commercial areas and are willing to spend more. Higher property values: Each large front yard tree adds to a home’s sale price. One thing that helps to keep trees healthy is a consistent, sufficient amount of rainfall. Extended dry periods, even if followed by enough rain to offset the deficit in the record books, will still have a detrimental effect on trees. During an extended dry spell, young trees will be the first to show the effects, while older, mature trees with large root systems may take three to five years to show outward signs of drought effects and at that point it may be too late for them to recover. Additionally, droughts are getting worse. Due to global warming, the increase in average temperature amplifies the effects of drought. Hot and dry is much worse than cool and dry. Higher temperatures mean evaporation increases which means soil dries out faster and trees transpire more. As a result, trees have evolved strategies to cope with drought conditions. One strategy a tree may employ is to close its stomata, or leaf pores, to minimize transpiration. Transpiration is the evaporation of water in plant leaves. A large oak tree can give transpire a whopping 40,000 gallons of water per year. 10% of the moisture in the atmosphere comes from transpiration. With the pores closed, besides preventing transpiration, the tree is unable to take in carbon dioxide which is critical to the process of photosynthesis. Without the ability to make food, it becomes dependent on the energy it has stored to keep itself alive. Symptoms can include scorched, wilted, or rolled leaves, or early fall color. A tree may drop some or all of its leaves to further prevent transpiration. As a tree uses up its reserve energy, growth will stop and twigs and branches begin to die back. Symptoms of drought stressed trees will occur from the top of the tree down, and from the outside toward the center. In other words, the extremities are the first areas to show damage. Damage caused by drought may not show up until the winter when a normally resilient tree becomes affected by sunscald, frost-splitting, or its weakened branches break from heavy snow. Another secondary effect of drought is that a weakened tree is more susceptible to disease and insect damage. Widespread areas of damage from emerald ash borer or diseases like oak wilt or other diseases are more prevalent when trees are stressed. One area of damage on a tree cannot be easily observed for damage. Most tree roots are in the top six to 24 inches of soil making them extremely vulnerable to dry periods. https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-lateral4.shtml This leads us to what we can do to minimize the effects of drought on our trees. Water using good practices. Slow, deep watering is critical. Water every five to seven days or more often if the temperature soars above 95 degrees. Place a shallow can where you are sprinkling to be sure at least two inches of water are slowly applied. Be sure to water the entire root area. Roots spread at least two to three times farther than the dripline of the tree. Another factor regarding watering is that any plants growing above the tree roots are also competing for water, so increase the amount of water if other plants are present and be sure to remove any weeds. A couple inches of mulch, but not touching the base of the tree, is a good alternative to grass under a tree. The best way to see if water is getting to the roots is to dig a hole approximately 10 inches deep to see if a sufficient amount of water is getting down to that depth from your watering. An area of heavy clay soil may seem saturated if the water is puddling, but in fact the water may just be sitting on the surface as it takes a long time for water to infiltrate clay. Young, newly planted trees will need more frequent watering until their roots are developed. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources put together this video How to Water a Tree for tips on watering newly planted trees. While it may be tempting to water a little bit every day instead of deep watering once a week, shallow watering will cause the roots all to move closer to the surface where they are more likely to be affected by the extreme weather conditions and unable to grow deeper where more water may be available. For best results, water in the morning and consider using a soaker hose. Avoid pruning stressed trees. Healing the wounds uses up the energy the tree is trying to conserve just to survive. If you are planting new trees, choose your plant wisely. Always consider the site where the tree will be living and select a plant that can tolerate the conditions. If you are interested in learning more about the effects of drought on trees, the links below include helpful information! https://www.fs.usda.gov/learn/trees https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/drought_monitor.html https://news.iu.edu/live/news/28084-young-trees-more-susceptible-to-drought-but-also https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/healthy-roots-and-healthy-trees-2-926/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4518277/ https://environment.yale.edu/news/article/brodersen-drought-and-tree-mortality-science-reveals-harsh-future-for-forests https://www.mass.gov/doc/citizen-forester-june-2017/download https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2016-07-08-drought-impacts-trees-years-come#:~:text=Many%20trees%20will%20take%20three,to%20insect%20and%20disease%20infestations . https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/long-term-drought-effects-on-trees-shrubs https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-lateral4.shtml https://extension.umn.edu/how/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard https://extension.umn.edu/my-minnesota-woods/caring-trees-dry-weather https://extension.umn.edu/natural-resources-news/avoid-pruning-drought-stressed-trees https://extension.missouri.edu/news/how-to-help-your-trees-recover-from-drought-5728 https://www.noaa.gov/jetstream/ll-leaf Photo Credit: National Drought Mitigation Center (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Lisa Olson (3), University of Florida (4)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 1 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the first in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. (This is the first in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) Pollinator gardens are popping up everywhere but what are they? Pollinator gardens are designed to support and maintain pollinators by supplying food, both pollen and nectar for pollinators. Ok, so what is a pollinator? Common pollinators include: insects and animals such as bees, wasps, moths, butterflies, birds, flies and small mammals, including bats. Pollinators help carry pollen from the male part of a flower (stamen) to the female part of the same or different flower (stigma). This movement of pollen results in flower fertilization and the production of fruit, vegetables or seeds. Why are pollinators so important? One in three bites of food we eat exist because of pollinators 75% of all flowering plants on earth are pollinated by insects and animals Pollinator plants help to clean our air supply, provide oxygen, prevent soil erosion and support wildlife G iven the importance of pollinators and the challenges they are facing I decided I needed to do what I could to help them. But where to start? I signed up for a webinar hosted by Scott County for their “Lawns to Legumes” program. One of the topics was pocket pollinator gardens . After this webinar, I’m definitely creating a pollinator garden! And I was ready to get started. Something I recommend is starting your plan earlier rather than later. I started planning in April and some of the native plants I wanted to order were already out of stock! The project manager in me needed a plan. Here are some major steps to creating a new pollinator garden: Determine the physical location and conditions . Full sun is the obvious choice, however, pollinator gardens can also grow in part sun/shade. Also important is how wet or dry the area is. A rain garden can be a pollinator garden for wet areas. Prepare the site . Clear the area of existing plant competition and plan how to water young plants. Choose native plants . Native plants and pollinators go hand in hand. Natives flourish without added pesticides or fertilizers which means less maintenance since they are already well adapted to local conditions. Use nectar - and pollen-rich flowers with a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Different flowers shapes and colors attract different types of pollinators. To get the most pollinator food per plant, avoid modern hybrids as many of them produce significantly less pollen and nectar to have larger and different colored blossoms. Have a minimum of three plants in bloom early spring through late fall . This ensures food availability for all pollinators as the emerge for the season. Create a planting plan . Place plants based on their mature height, width, bloom time and color of blossoms. Plant in drifts . Groups of three or more flowering plants are easier for pollinators to find than single plants. Avoid landscape fabric and mulch . Placing plants of varying heights close to one another will create a “mat” of plants to block the weeds even better than mulch. Next month I will say more about planning my pollinator garden. Sources: https://www.nps.gov/subjects/pollinators/what-is-a-pollinator.htm https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/pollinator_gardens_can_be_effective_educational_tools https://beelab.umn.edu/help-bees/actions-help-bees/plant-bee-flowers/pollinator-garden https://extension.psu.edu/planting-pollinator-friendly-gardens https://bwsr.state.mn.us/pollinator-toolbox Photo Credit: flickr.com (4) & Brenda Scheer (1,2,3)

< Back No More Stringy Petunias! Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. Read this article to learn what to do to keep your beautiful petunias looking full and fluffy. Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on, petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. So, what to do? Yank them out and put new ones in? Give up on them and replace them with a hardier plant, maybe a marigold? However, between replacing petunias and giving up on them altogether there is a third option: pruning them. Read on to learn how to prune petunias successfully. Pruning petunias will keep them full and fluffy all summer long. There is some work involved, but replacing petunias with more petunias or other flowers is also work. And not only that, it’s expensive and it involves running around to big box stores and nurseries to see if either one has any decent flowers left. In addition, pruning your petunias keeps your original design and color scheme in place and involves only minutes of work throughout the summer. To keep petunias blooming prolifically we must remember their mission, in fact the mission of all plants: to perpetuate the species. When the bloom on a petunia drops off its pod it creates a seed which will hopefully go on to create another petunia. Having accomplished its mission, the petunia dies in peace, leaving behind leggy and scraggly branches without flowers. The point of pruning is to send the opposite message to the petunia: you have not completed your mission. You have not set seed (because I have cut off all your seed pods). You must keep blooming, staying full and fluffy, until I decide to stop cutting them off (usually sometime in September, or sooner if we have an early frost). See the photo where the woman is about to cut off the pod where the bloom once grew? You must trim the petunia BEHIND THAT pod, which holds the seed, to convince the petunia she still has work to do and must continue to produce blooms. Petunias have many blooms and their seed pods often hide underneath the bottoms of branches, behind other blooming flowers. If you leave pruning them until they start to look “scraggly”, you may spend anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours pruning your petunias. It’s a tedious mission of search and destroy. There is an easier way . Buy a small pair of pointed scissors with colorful handles (so you can spot them in the soil) available at the Dollar Store or Michaels. In fact, buy one for every pot and bed of petunias if they are at some distance from each other. Stick the scissors point down into the pot or bed next to your petunias. Any time you are out in your yard inspecting or admiring your garden, check your petunias for spent blossoms and spend a minute or two cutting off the empty pods. A minute or two every day or so equals enough time to keep your petunias glorious all season. You can also prune for shape and form. If, in spite of your consistent pruning, your petunias develop leggy branches, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch in front of the new growth . You can also prune any branches that are not keeping to the design or shape you wish. Again, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch right in front of it. Do this consistently and the work will be minimal. Your petunias will outdo themselves producing blooms to complete their mission and you will enjoy full and fluffy petunias all summer! References: https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/growing-petunias https://icultivate.net/how-to-prune-petunias / https://www.epicgardening.com/prune-petunias/ https://www.gardendesign.com/how-to/prune-petunias.html Photo Credits: UMN Extension (1,4 ), Susan Ball (2,3)

< Back Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentuckea): A Rare Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you heard of or planted Yellowwood? It is one of the rarest of native shade trees. But Yellowwood is large, beautiful native tree that will grow well in Minnesota. Yellowwood has a special feature in the spring that Master Gardener Jim Lakin discusses in this article. Read more about this unique native tree. Yellowwood is one of the rarest of native shade trees, naturally occurring in the Eastern to Central United States. It’s most often found on the limestone cliffs of Kentucky, Tennessee and North Carolina. However, it is hardy through Zone 4 and thus a suitable planting for southern and central Minnesota. And, indeed, it is well worth considering as a gracious addition to your landscape. Yellowwood grows to a height of from 30 to 50 feet with a broad rounded crown and a smooth bark. The name yellowwood comes from its yellow heartwood, used in small amounts for specialist furniture and decorative woodturning. Although it is of great value as a shade tree, one of its most spectacular features is its flowering. In late May to early June, Yellowwood produces long, white clumps of wisteria-like flowers some 6 to 12 inches long. Flowering intensity varies from year to year with a profuse output every second to third year. In the fall, the leaves turn a mix of yellow, gold and orange. Quite a show! As you might expect, the nativar is a good source for pollinators, attracting a variety of butterflies and bees. Mature Yellowwoods In siting a Cladrastis kentuckea , do remember that it is a full-sized tree and should be spaced appropriately. It does best in full sun, in well-drained soil. It is quite tolerant of both acidic and alkaline soils. You might want to mulch heavily over winter for the first couple of years, as it is establishing itself in our bracing Minnesota climate. It looks great on a naturalized border. That’s something to consider if you have some woodland. Also, it is surprisingly tolerant of urban settings, although I’m not sure if it would be a candidate for your “hell strip” (what landscapers call the area between the sidewalk and street). Several cultivars of Yellowwood have been developed. “Perkins Pink” is a nice one with, as the name implies, pink rather than white flowers. A diminutive sister is “Kentucky Yellowwood”. This is a medium-sized tree suitable for ornamental gardens. It does, however, have the tendency to divide its trunk near the ground. This tendency seems to be widespread among the various Yellowwood strains. This bothers some folks although I think it imparts a distinctive character to the tree. Spring flowers of yellowwood So, if you are looking for a luxuriant, summer shade tree that puts on a show each spring and fall, consider Yellowwood. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota (1,2)