< Back Is it Too Late to Plant . . .? Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener Now it’s June and for many reasons, you don’t have your garden planted. Is it too late? This article explains why the answer is a resounding No! There are many vegetables and annuals that have a shorter time to maturation and will allow you to enjoy the fruits of your June labor. Read on to learn how to save your summer planting enjoyment. Now it’s June and for many reasons, you don’t have your garden planted. Is it too late? The resounding and reassuring answer is – No! And the answer is also – it depends. There are many vegetables and flowers that you can plant in June and still get a good harvest. However, there are a few plants that need a long growing season and planting in June might not provide sufficient time for flowers or vegetables to mature. This year, we’ve had a cool, wet spring and many of the perennials (plants that grow back every year) are ‘behind schedule,’ emerging or blooming at least a couple of weeks late. This suggests we already have a delayed planting season and even gardens planted early might be growing slowly or may even need to be replanted if the seeds rotted in the wet soil or tiny plants experienced a frost or freeze. How do you know what you can plant? There are some key items to look at – read the back of the seed packages, if you are sowing seeds, or tags inserted into plants you purchase. The back of the seed package tells you when it is best to plant the seeds, how long before the seed will germinate (when you can expect to see green pushing up out of the ground), and how long to harvest if the seed is going to produce vegetables. If the seed package says 90 days until harvest, you can plant it, but you might not get to pick anything unless we have a long, warm fall. In the picture, you can see Turnips have an estimated 45 days to harvest, so that would work but Parsnips are harvested 95 days after sowing. Even in a good growing year, Parsnips might be a gamble. If the package says the vegetable is a cool season crop, like peas, lettuce, or spinach, you might want to wait until late summer to plant as we are (usually) heading into our hottest growing time in late June, July, and August. You may have missed the spring season harvest, but you have an opportunity to enjoy the vegetable in the Fall. For more information on planting for fall harvest, see the Mid-Summer Planting Guide on the University of Minnesota Extension website. It also has excellent online resources and a handy “at a glance chart” on when to plant: Planting and Growing Guides If you were not able to start seeds yourself for plants needing more growing time than we have in a Minnesota summer, you could consider buying plants from garden centers or nurseries. This will increase your chances of planting late but still successfully growing longer season plants. Flowers don’t have the same timescale on their packages, but you can gather some hints from how the package describes planting. For example, if the package directs you to start the seed inside several weeks before outdoor planting, this may be a flower that needs a longer season than we have in Minnesota. This is not a hard and fast rule, however, as Zinnia packages suggest starting seeds indoors a few weeks before planting. You can successfully direct seed Zinnias – and many other flower seeds – through late June - early July. Just a word of caution: perennials can be sold in seed packets, but will take several years to reach maturity and bloom. To learn whether the flower you want to grow is an annual or perennial, and more information about many types of flowers and flower landscapes, e.g., pollinator gardens, you can refer to - UMN Extension Flowers In the end, especially with seeds, it never hurts to try. One year, I planted sunflowers, cosmos, and zinnias on the Fourth of July – all by seed – and by mid-August, had a pollinator’s paradise and riots of color to enjoy from my deck until Fall. Planting in June is very doable and, while you might have to watch neighbors and friends enjoying their garden harvest while you wait, you will be able to eat your own home-grown vegetables – just a little later. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (2) & Mickey Scullard (1,3)

< Back Snowdrops for the Early Spring Garden Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Are you a gardener that loves to have flowering plants staggered throughout the growing season? Then perhaps you should consider planting snowdrops in your yard. They are the first spring bulb to bloom and they are known to pop up amongst the snow melt. They usually bloom before larger daffodils and tulips. Snowdrops (galanthus spp) are a member of the amaryllis family. However, they are a small, delicate-looking, single bloom white bell-shaped flower with several green upright leaves. They are native to Southern Europe and Asia Minor and are found in woodlands or wet, alpine grasslands of cool mountainous regions. Most are hardy in Zone 5 but some varieties range to Zone 2. The common variety for Minnesota is 3 to 6 inches tall. Of note, Giant snowdrops are not as hardy (Zones 4/5). Where to Plant Snowdrops should be planted in groups of up to 25 to be really seen. Plant them under deciduous trees or shrubs or near walkways where they can be visible in early spring when the snow is melting. They can even be planted in your grass but then you shouldn’t mow over them until 6 weeks after blooming. They go well combined with Siberian Squill, early small Daffodils, Winter Aconte, and Glory of the Snow. Some people also plant them in indoor containers and force them to bloom. How to Plant Plant them 3 inches apart and 3 inches deep in rich, well-drained soil in early fall when the night temperatures are in the 40s or 50s. Consider fertilizing them in the spring when shoots first appear. Pros and Cons Pros: First to bloom in Spring gets you looking forward to the growing season. They do not have any significant insect or disease issues and are deer resistant like daffodils. Cons: Snowdrops are poisonous if ingested by pets or children. To avoid skin irritations, gardeners should wear gloves when handling them. Sources: University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/snowdrops-galanthus-spp/ Penn State Extension: https://extension.psu.edu/snowdrops Photo Credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin (1,2,3)

< Back Poinsettias – A Home in Mexico and Dr. Poinsett Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener The Poinsettia is a weed in its native Mexico. It is called lobster plant or Mexican Flame Leaf and has become an essential part of North America’s Christmas décor. The poinsettia that adorns mantles, coffee tables, and bookcases across North America is a descendant of a 6-foot shrub from which growers in Scandinavia and California developed the scaled-down varieties that bloom indoors. All poinsettias are winter-flowering shrubs that are noted for the bright red bracts or leaves. Modern plants have bracts that measure 12-15 inches with green leaves. The real flowers are the insignificant, greenish-yellow center clusters. Today plants can be purchased in many colors from white, peppermint (red & white,) pink and others. Keep a Poinsettia at normal room temperature (60-80 degrees) in a bright filtered location such as opposite light filtering blinds. Water only when the foliage droops slightly: the potting soil should then be totally saturated. No fertilization is necessary. Most individuals discard the plant soon after the holidays but with care you can have bright red bracts until April. Some enthusiasts will attempt to follow the strict schedule of taking cuttings or allow the cut back stump to develop new growth. Commercial producers follow a strict routine that is difficult for the home grower to mimic. Poinsettias are short-day plants; the flower and bract formation is prompted by an eight-week period of 14 hours total uninterrupted darkness and 10 hours of light daily. Plants are treated with a dwarfing chemical that reduces stem length, which results in the Poinsettia plant we know today. Poinsettias are readily available so this procedure is not needed to enjoy this beautiful plant. The Legend of the Poinsettia by Tomie dePaola tells the story of a young Mexican girl who had nothing for the manger scene on Christmas Eve. She picked tall green weeds to place around the stable and as the congregation prayed bright red star flowers burst open on the weed tips, casting a warm glow around the manger scene. The people named the plant la Flor de Nochebuena or Flower of the Holy Night. Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, the US ambassador to Mexico from 1825-1830, brought the shrub to the United States in 1830 because the bright red leaves, which he thought to be the flower, fascinated him. He took cuttings from shrubs growing near his Mexican residence to his home in South Carolina. The plant was named for Dr. Poinsett as the Poinsettia. Nothing says Merry Christmas like a bright red Poinsettia. Remember to thank Dr. Poinsett for this cheerful holiday plant! For more details on caring for poinsettia, visit this UMN Extension link. Additional sources: Tomie dePaola. The Legend of the Poinsettia. G.P. Putmans & Sons, 1994. Huxley Anthony, Editor. Success with House Plants, Readers Digest,1979.

< Back Harvesting and Preserving Herbs Harvest time is such a fun time of the year. There are so many herbs to harvest and preserve for the upcoming winter months. Some share their bounty year after year, like tarragon and oregano, and others, like basil and marjoram, are planted in spring for a fall harvest. Shari Mayer, Master Gardener I’m always playing with herbs in my yard, tucking them into the landscape, my gardens, and containers. Wherever they end up, as fall approaches, my attention turns toward harvesting. I’ll share a couple of harvesting techniques that have worked well for me over the years. Personally, I tend to wait as long as possible before the final harvest. Oftentimes I find myself gathering armfuls of herbs to bring indoors in a race against inclement weather, especially my frost-sensitive herbs. Looking at mountains of plant material all over my kitchen counters and in buckets makes me sometimes wonder what I was thinking way back in the spring! Anyway, here are some techniques that help me prolong the fresh herbs for cooking and make short work of processing. These methods preserve the flavor and essential oils, which is what it’s all about. First, prepping for harvest is important. I don’t like to waste an enormous amount of time washing and drying herbs once they are inside, so I try to use the gift of rain. This washes the majority of dust, dirt and debris from the herbs. It also ensures they are hydrated just prior to harvest. If no rain, then I achieve the same effect with a garden hose. My favorite way to process a lot of herbs is what I refer to as the ‘slurry’ method. I’ll use basil, since it is a perfect example. Basil does not like temps below 50 degrees F, and discolors to an unappetizing brown if cold and wet. This method preserves the color and makes it super simple to use in cooking. The key to a slurry is the ratio of fresh, packed herbs to oil. Use a 4:1 ratio. The process is simple. Two cups packed leaf material and ½ cup oil (my favorite is olive). Do not use woody stems. Using a food processor, start pulsing the leaf material, and slowly add the oil until incorporated. The mixture should be thick and pourable, but not runny. Fill ice cube trays and freeze the mixture. Once frozen, store in freezer bags. I mark the bags with ice cubes that equal 2 cups of herbed cubes. This is the base amount to make one recipe of pesto. If you want to make a pesto, just thaw, and add the remainder of pesto ingredients to it. Otherwise, for cooking, just pop an ice cube or two as needed or desired. The slurry method works well also with water as an oil substitute. Another favorite technique of mine is to make herb bouquets. I just go outside and collect herbs as you would cut flowers, and bring them in and arrange the herbs in vases. If the herb is annual, such as basil, I will cut it right at the ground level and bring the whole plant inside. If it is a perennial, such as tarragon, then just bring in a number of branches. They last for weeks this way, and provide fresh herbs for your cooking well into fall. I find the varied greens of the herbs are as beautiful as flowers. There are so many ways to preserve herbs, but these are a couple of my favorites. Here’s to fall bouquets of green! Photo credits Emily Murphy, “ PassthePistil.com ” (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3, 4)

< Back Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Click on this link to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Read on to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. I thought this article would be simple to write, but as it turns out, it is a much more complicated topic than I thought. Many gardeners understand the psychological benefits of having living plants around us. According to the American Horticultural Society, indoor plants can improve air quality through air purification, reduce stress, improve productivity, and bring beauty to your home. However, some people who have asthma or other lung conditions need to choose what type of plant, if any, is best for them. If you are concerned about allergens in your home, potted plants can be a challenge as the soil, if not properly watered, can create mold. Mold is created in soil from overwatering with limited air circulation and not enough sunlight. The Mayo Clinic suggested that if you do have potted plants in your home, you can put aquarium gravel over the dirt to contain any mold that could develop. Removing dust from your plants periodically also helps with allergies. Flowering plants can also be a challenge for people with airborne allergens. In my research I discovered the Ogren Plant Allergy Scale System (OPALS). It is a standard which considers the likelihood a plant will cause pollen allergy symptoms. Plants are ranked on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most allergenic. This system can be used for trees, shrubs, and other plants (indoors and outdoors). While researching, I did discover that there were many lists to cross reference and it was confusing as some of the lists said they were allergen friendly and other lists said they were not. So, I am including some of the most common plants that showed up on multiple lists realizing that this is a limited list. There are some colorful plants that produce pollens which are heavier and stickier. These plants will be less likely to cause irritants. Another suggestion is to consider cross referencing this list with a plant list that can cause skin rash sensitivities or are harmful to pets. Snake Plant (also called Mother-In-Law Tongue) Peace Lily Parlor Palm Areca Palm Lady Palm Bamboo Palm Dracaena Golden Pothos Dragon Tree (also called Marginata) Rubber Plant Philodendron Brasil Aloe Vera and other Succulents Horsehead Philodendron Dumb cane String of Pearls So, if you have been avoiding houseplants because of concern about allergies, know that there are houseplants out there that can provide the greenery, color and other benefits of houseplants this winter. Reference: “Healthy Living: How a Lab Founded with Mayo Clinic is Fine-tuning the Indoors”. By Liv Martin, September 13, 2021; Minnesota Monthly. https://ahsgardening.org “The Joys and Benefits of Indoor Gardening” Mayo Clinic website: “Allergy-proof your home” By Mayo Clinic Staff House Digest, “15 Best Houseplants for People with Allergies” by Kailen Skewis, October 16, 2022 Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, “Smart Gardening: Tips for an Allergy-Friendly Garden”, AAFA Community Services, 4/18/18 Good Housekeeping, “10 Best Indoor Plants for your Health According to Research”, by Erica Sweeney, Juley 29, 2022 https://zyrtec.com/indoors “5 .“Best Allergy Friendly House Plants” Https://plantify.co.za Https://flonase.com/allergies , “Best and Worst Indoor Plants for Allergies” Photo Credit: Commons.wikimedia.org-Creative Commons (1), Gardening.stackexchange.com-Creative Commons (2), www.flickr.com-Creative Commons (3)

< Back I Forgot to Plant My Garlic in October! Planting Garlic in March Michelle Scullard, Master Gardener Are you a garlic lover? Yes, you can buy it at the grocery store but garlic grown in your own garden is so good. Garlic is normally grown in late fall BUT not to worry, if you act quickly, you can plant garlic in March and harvest it in July. Read this article to learn more about planting garlic in the spring or the fall. Didn’t get around to planting garlic this past fall? You can still get a garlic harvest this summer but you have to be quick and get that garlic in the ground as early as possible in March. As soon as the ground is thawed, you can plant those garlic cloves. Usually, garlic is planted in the fall in mid-to-late October, after the first killing frost. It is covered with straw or leaves and in the spring, emerges as one of the first green plants. Luckily, Minnesota springs are cool, so planting garlic in March still allows the garlic to go through the cold period it needs, although it is much shorter. Your garlic bulbs may be a little smaller, but you will still be able to harvest your own garlic. And there is nothing like eating fresh garlic from your own garden! You should not plant the garlic bulbs from the grocery store as those are usually from California and do not grow well in Minnesota. You can look at seed catalogs or nurseries for garlic to plant and some may still have some seed garlic. There are two types of garlic; hardneck and softneck. Types of hardneck that grow well in Minnesota include Rocamble, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain. Softneck varieties that do well in Minnesota are Artichoke and Silverskin. They produce bulbs with more cloves and are the type of garlic you can braid. Garlic is very easy to plant. To plant, take a bulb of seed garlic and break it into the individual cloves. Dig a small hole and place the clove pointed side up and cover with soil. You do not have to remove the papery skin that covers it. You can plant garlic close together, which allows you to plant a large crop in a small space. Plant in double rows that are six inches apart and plant the double rows 30 inches apart. You will want to plant in well-drained soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. You will want to cover with three to four inches of straw or leaf mulch to add an insulation layer. You do not have to worry about uncovering them as the garlic will push through organic cover. Controlling weeds is important as weeds can easily overwhelm the young garlic plants. Leaving the insulating straw or leaves that you used to cover them when you planted can help suppress weeds and keep in moisture. Water weekly to a depth of one inch. Insects that can affect garlic include onion maggots, bulb mites, and aster leafhoppers. The aster leafhoppers can cause the disease aster yellow. Make sure to practice a four-year rotation to help reduce insect and disease problems and only plant firm, healthy cloves purchased from reliable sources. Scapes are a bonus that grow at the end of the garlic stalk in early June. The hardneck garlics generally produce the scapes; rarely will the softnecks produce them. The scapes are the curved part of the stem at the top of the garlic stock. You can cut them when the green stalk starts curling. Cook them by sauteing them in oil, making pesto, or adding to dishes such as quiche. You can find recipes for scapes on the internet. There are mixed opinions on cutting the garlic scapes, however, as some people believe it affects the size of the garlic bulb. If you choose to leave the scape, a small garlic bulb grows on the end that will have small white and purple flowers. These can be harvested to use as garlic seeds for a future growing season. Garlic is harvested in late June to late July when the lower leaves begin to brown and about half the upper leaves are still green. You can also harvest a bulb and cut it in half to see if the cloves fill out the skins. If you are planting your garlic in March, you will likely be harvesting more toward end of July. Once you have dug up your garlic bulbs, leave about six inches to a foot of stem and knock off any soil. You then will need to allow the bulbs to cure for three to four weeks in a warm, dry, and airy place. You can place them over a screen or hang them so air flows around them. Once cured, cut the stems off and any remaining roots. You will want to store the bulbs in a cool, dry location. Garlic will keep for several months. You can eat the garlic as soon as it has cured. You can also save some to plant in the Fall after the first killing frost. For more information: Growing Garlic, UMN Extension Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Spring in September Plan Now to Start 2025 Blooming in Color Spring begins this month! I know, it’s September, but on a gardener’s calendar, this is the month to begin planning for an awakening of eagerly blooming sprouts and a palette of spring colors. Whether you are a “bulb-beginner” like me or a bulb enthusiast looking to expand on some gardening ideas, continue reading as we discuss the what, where, when, how, and why of spring blooming bulbs with a few design tips planted along the way. Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern September marks the beginning of fall and so it’s time to start planting. What? Spring bulbs, of course. Sure, you may be a bit weary of gardening this time of year but before you put your gardening tools away, take out that trowel one last time and plant some spring bulbs. Why plant spring blooming bulbs? After a long Minnesota winter, the flowers of spring bulbs provide a great wealth of color in a variety of flower and leaf designs - an unabashed welcome to spring against the monochromatic color of the final days of winter. When? There are different kinds of bulbs. Spring blooming bulbs are planted in the fall of the previous year. Summer blooming bulbs are planted in the spring of the same year. This article will only focus on spring blooming bulbs, also known as hardy bulbs. Examples of hardy bulbs are tulips, daffodils, iris, crocus and lilies. The local garden centers will have a selection of spring blooming bulbs beginning this month. Now through October is the ideal time when you should plant these bulbs (although they can be planted until the first frost). Make sure the bulbs are clean and solid, without mold, rot, cuts and bruising. When healthy bulbs are properly planted and cared for, spring blooming bulbs will give you years of enjoyment. Tulip, daffodil, crocus bulbs Before you plant your spring bulbs, consider where to plant them in your garden. Begin by taking pictures of your flower gardens throughout the seasons and take note of the sun and shade exposure throughout the days. This will help you determine what to plant and where to plant your bulbs as your existing plants progress through their own unique life cycles. Pictures will also aid in determining what plants to thin out and what plants to transplant along with spacing when the time is right. My annual red petunias had a happy southwest-facing summer taking a front row seat to my colorful perennials but will soon relinquish their small plot of soil. My bountiful hydrangea and Black Eyed Susans, swaying feather reed grass, and my prickly Japanese barberry will then become a beautiful backdrop to groupings of snowdrops and allium . Both will be the ideal height ranging from three to eight inches. (Note that there are different sizes of allium ranging from short to quite tall, so look closely before you buy.) Snowdrops will bloom as early as March and allium will follow in May giving time for their surrounding neighbors to grow into full fruition, blooming in all their glory from June through fall. It is always important to read the packaging to know how to plant the bulbs. Planting depths may range from three inches to twelve inches. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, “[g]enerally, plant bulbs two to three times deeper than their diameter. This will vary with the type of soil.” If you want to do advance soil preparation, do a soil sample test of the area you will plant your bulbs. Keep in mind that the turnaround for results may take up to three weeks, so plan accordingly. This will give you time to shop for bulbs. After you have evenly spread the final layer of soil, watered thoroughly, laid chicken wire to ward off hungry squirrels and other wildlife, spread a layer of mulch, and labeled your plantings, take one final picture. Document your work so you can relish in the before and after pictures come next spring. During the stillness of the upcoming holiday months, you will be free to consider your color theme for annual hanging baskets or planters for the upcoming year ahead. You can also explore the possibility of summer blooming bulbs as you await with anticipation your spring bulbs in blooming color. REFERENCES: https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/annualsbulbs/bulbs-101 https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTXODhmkJS0 Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,4,5), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back October - “Fall”ing for Compost Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Supplies Needed : Large Plastic Water/Pop Bottle or Comparable Container Utility Knife, Push Pin/Tack or Small Nail Small Dish or Tray to set Bottle into Greens (ex. vegetable and/or fruit food scraps, non-fertilized grass clippings) Browns (ex. sticks, leaves, sawdust, pine needles, clean cardboard) Spray Bottle with Water Long dowel, long handled Spoon or Narrow Trowel Sunny spot - on shelf, counter, windowsill Patience Composting is a natural way of helping the environment using our home and garden waste to create compost that can be used in our gardens and plantings. By placing waste items together (greens & browns) and allowing them to break down or decompose we help to cut down on the food and yard waste scraps we throw away on a day-to-day basis. Composting also provides wonderful benefits as a gardener as a way of natural recycling…turning items we typically would throw away and turning them into usable soil for our future plants. Starting small and educating our “Little Sprouts” about the importance of the how-to’s of composting and letting them create their own compost container benefits us all. If using a large plastic water/pop container, please have an adult cut the top of the bottle off just as it begins to round downward. Next, if age appropriate, allow your “Little Sprout” to use the pin/tack to push through the bottom of the bottle/container to make a few small holes. If the plastic is too thick or the child is too small, please have the adult place holes in the bottom of the container. A small dish or tray will catch any moisture that escapes from the bottom. What about the browns and greens? Composting is like cooking with a recipe. Just like when baking cookies, various ingredients are needed and the same is true with creating a successful compost. To create a successful compost both greens and browns are needed in addition to water and the natural process of decomposition. “Greens” are simply the moist ingredient that provides nitrogen and moisture that helps things grow. Greens include fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, coffee and tea grounds and eggshells. Yes - “Greens” don’t necessarily need to be green. “Browns” are the items we add to the compost that provide air pockets in the pile, increase bulk and are full of carbon. The brown items include dry leaves, cardboard and plain paper (no shiny paper, tape or printing on cardboard), non-died wood chips, twigs, sticks, sawdust and pine needles. Again, all materials don’t necessarily need to be brown, but for the most part browns are brown. What not to use in my home compost: dairy, fish, meat and fats should be avoided. Next is the real fun…layering the browns and greens (In a larger compost bin the ratio of browns to greens is 2-1, but in our small compost bin just try your best.). The container used does not have to be filled to the top in that composting is about adding layers as you go and as you produce green and brown compostable items. In the container place brown materials first. Spray the layer lightly with water and then proceed with a green layer followed by another brown layer. Spray a light mist and place another green layer followed by brown. Repeat until you have filled your compost bin to the top or have decided to stop. Don’t forget to mist the brown layer each time. Once you have reached the level of compost in the container, place it in a sunny location. As the elements added decompose with the help of good bacteria and fungi, you will begin to see the actual breakdown of the elements involved. But your “Little Sprouts” job is not done. The compost needs to be turned so take a small dowel, trowel or spoon and turn the compost. Turning the compost can take place every 2-3 days. The slow process of decomposing takes time so be patient. It can take months for the greens and browns to turn into the perfect compost, but it is worth the wait. When the product being created is a dark color, falls apart and smells like soil, then your compost is ready. Remember, greens and browns can continually be added to the container so keep it up. Overtime, wonderful compost will be created and can be used in your garden or around your flowers. Happy Fall Composting! Photo credit: pexels.com (1,2,3)

< Back Don’t Let the Snow (or Lack of) Determine Next Year’s Blooms Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Garden Intern It’s October and soon the winter snow will be here, or will it be? We all remember the “lost winter of 2023-2024” when Minnesota received record warmth and lack of snow. Just as a super cold winter can damage your plants, so can a super warm, snowless winter. This article explains why these extreme temperature variations can harm your plants and what you can do to protect them. October is the time to prepare your plants for the winter! In the article *Winterizing Plants: Cold Damage, Julie Weisenhorn, U of MN Extension horticulture educator says, “ Lack of snow cover and dry, droughty conditions negatively influence winter soil temperatures and cause root injury.” In Minnesota, the earth rotates on its axis at about 700 mph. The ground beneath our feet, known as the earth’s lithosphere, is in constant motion also. Yet we don’t “feel the earth move under our feet”, unless an earthquake occurs or you’re Carole King. Instead, we see the effects of this movement. We see it in the passage of a 24-hour day, in the cracks of an asphalt driveway, or the heaving of landscape edging over an extended period of time. We also see the effects it has on our perennials as this heaving occurs. Heaving is the upward movement of soil due to wide temperature fluctuations coupled with the expansion and contraction of moisture (water) within the soil. The tiny root hairs of a plant are microscopic and invisible to the human eye. They are responsible for absorbing water and nutrients for the plant. The freezing and thawing process of heaving, negatively affects these tiny hair roots, resulting in damage or even death to a plant. And at times, if the plant was not properly planted, heaving can push the plant up from the ground exposing its roots to other damaging environmental conditions, such as insects, diseases, and animals. To minimize heat loss in the soil surrounding the plant, and the potential for heaving, winterize your plants with shredded wood mulch. Shredded leaves also provide a good source of organic mulch, as well as pine needles. Four to six inches of mulch will help the soil temperature remain consistent and help prevent heaving. Other helpful considerations for Minnesota gardeners include: Select plants according to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map. Watch “Right Plant Right Place” video series on the U of MN Extension You Tube channel to learn how to give your plants the best start possible. Continue to water your plants until the ground freezes. Water serves as an insulator; well-watered soil retains heat. And as your plants come to life in the spring, they’ll get their first drink of water as the ground thaws. And if possible, mulch after the top one to two inches of the ground has frozen. The mulch helps retain moisture from watering. In summary, to prevent potential root injury, Weisenhorn says, “Snow cover and mulch are good insulators and help keep soil temperatures warmer . . . Soil moisture is important to root and plant health.” So, the big question on many people’s minds is, “Will we get snow this winter or see a repeat performance of the Lost Winter of 2023-2024?” “Hard to say what exactly will happen for the winter of 2024 -‘25, but it would be difficult to have a repeat of the record warmth and the nearly snowless winter of 2023-’24,” says Assistant State Climatologist Pete Boulay, MN DNR. “The Winter Outlook (December-February) from the Climate Prediction Center depicts a slight tendency for below normal temperatures over Northwest Minnesota with equal chances of below normal and above normal temperatures across the rest of the state. There is a slight tilt for above normal precipitation across the eastern half of the state. La Niña is expected to be present this winter. For me, I prepare for the worst and hope for the best!” We can’t control the weather, but we can in part, minimize the effects it has on our plants with proper planning and preparation. Whether it snows or not this coming winter, let’s plant and maintain properly, water sufficiently and mulch so your plants will have a blooming tomorrow. Make sure your plants will be the “Happy Perennials of spring 2025.” To read more on The Lost Winter of 2023-’24, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/lost-winter-2023-24.html . To learn more about the intricacies of a plant root system, log on to https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ . For fun facts about Minnesota weather, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/summaries_and_publications/normalsportal.html . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkaBGry87JE&list=PLyMOSdo2sM9sqq7P8DR8qKV8f_bkPXAgG&index=1 * https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/winterizing-plants-cold-damage Photo Credit: https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back Things to Check Out This Spring: What are Buds, Leaves and Blossoms? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Keep an eye out for BUDS, LEAVES, and BLOSSOMS growing on the trees around you. Read on to learn more about these fun signs of spring and some tree education ideas for children of all ages! Your nose may tell you there are blossoms nearby and your ears may hear the buzzing of happy bees enjoying their nectar and pollen. How does the rounded or pointed shape of a bud compare to the flat shape of many leaves? How many different colors and shapes of blossoms can you find on a walk around your neighborhood, or a visit to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum? pussy willow (salix discolor) In spring, trees start to wake up from their winter naps, called dormancy . The days are longer. The sunlight is stronger. The temperatures warm, allowing water to be pulled from the soil into the roots and then move within the tree. The sap starts flowing, full of energy. In a maple tree, we can even use the sap to make syrup for your pancakes. Yum! Sap helps feed the trees too. As the sap carries nutrients throughout the tree, BUDS swell at the end of tree branches - they are gathering energy and getting ready for the new season. Those buds are the beginning of a new leaf or blossom! diagram of a twig with lateral (side) buds and terminal (end) bud A LEAF grows from some buds - this is a flattened structure that has some big jobs: Transpiration: helping the tree to release water vapor and oxygen into the air and take in carbon dioxide. Photosynthesis: taking the sun’s energy and making it into fuel for the tree Shade and shelter: from sun, wind and rain Food: what kind of creatures eat leaves? Some big mammals and small insects like to munch on those tasty treats. 4 leaf Pay attention to the shape and structure of leaves - you can identify the tree by the kind of leaf it grows! Some buds turn into flower BLOSSOMS : their job is to attract pollinators with bright colors and sweet scents! If the pollinators (like bees) can bring pollen from one plant to another, some blossoms will grow into fruit like an apple! apple trees in blossom The University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources has a fun way to identify, different features in tree species. Find more tree identification cards here . card of Black Cherry Tree Ready to read more? Check out some books from the Dakota County libraries about BUDS, LEAVES, BLOSSOMS and more on trees! Here are a few suggestions: National Geographic Kids, Ultimate Explorer Field Guide: Tree by Patricia Daniels The Things That I Love About Trees by Chris Butterworth & illustrated by Charlotte Voake Can You Hear the Trees Talking, Discovering the Hidden Life of the Forest by Peter Wohllenben Nature All Around Trees by Pamela Hickman and Carolyn Gavin Keep an eye on this shrub if you happen to be by the Wescott Library steps - I found some branches with buds just beginning to swell with snow still on the ground this spring! Find some additional resources for tree activities from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources here . But most importantly, get out there with the child in your life and enjoy the spring BUDS, LEAVES, AND BLOSSOMS! Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1,2), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (3), University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources (4,6), Sarah Heidtke (5,7,8)

< Back Eradicating Invasive Honeysuckle in the Minnesota Landscape Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Minnesota has several species of native honeysuckle but beware - there is a chance the honeysuckle you have at home may be one of the four non-native species of bush honeysuckle that are invasive in a Minnesota landscape! This article tells you how to tell the difference and what to do about these invasive plants. Minnesota has several species of native honeysuckle but beware - there is a chance the honeysuckle you have at home may be one of the four non-native species of bush honeysuckle that are invasive in a Minnesota landscape! Here’s how to tell the difference and what to do about this invasive plant. Photo by Amanda Drews invasive honeysuckle thicket The invasive honeysuckle species taking over Minnesota woodlands crowds out native plants in much the same way as buckthorn. The plants send out chemical signals to inhibit the growth of nearby plants, have an early leaf out in the spring that shades the plants that do start to grow, and produce berries that have little nutritional value to birds. Areas with large amounts of honeysuckle make attractive bedding sites for deer and consequently, the deer ticks that cause Lyme disease come right along with them! The invasive species to watch for include the Amur ( L. maackii ), Tartarian (Lonicera tatarica ), Morrow’s ( L. morrowii ), and Bell’s ( L. x bella ) honeysuckles . If you are looking to eradicate invasive honeysuckles in your landscape, your first step would be to identify it. You don’t necessarily need to know which specific species it is. A good rule of thumb to rule out any of the invasives over our native honeysuckles is to look at the stems. If a plant over 2 years old has a hollow brown pith (core) it’s one of the four invasive species. So, get snapping and check your honeysuckles! Photo by Amanda Drews hollow stem of invasive honeysuckle In the spring when the ground is moist and right after leaf formation, you can try manually pulling or digging honeysuckles out. Just be sure you get the entire root crown removed. If you need to, you can spray the leaves with glyphosate but you must do it before other surrounding plants leaf out. Just as with buckthorn, the fall is the most effective time to treat with herbicides since plants will be pulling nutrients down into their roots. After cutting the stumps down to the ground, immediately spot treat the top with glyphosate or triclopyr as directed on the product label. Another effective treatment is using basal bark spray with triclopyr ester . If you are able to do prescribed burning, that will kill the top of the shrubs and seedlings but you will likely have to do repeat burns. Photo by Amanda Drews flowers of invasive honeysuckle To prevent the honeysuckle from returning, replant the area as soon as possible. winterberry, pagoda and gray dogwoods, common elderberry and black chokecherry are good substitutes for filling your spaces back in. Photo by Amanda Drews berries of invasive honeysuckle If you plan to replace your invasive honeysuckles with natives or just want to add some to your yard, there are two types of honeysuckles recommended by the University of Minnesota Extension to plant in Minnesota. The Southern bush honeysuckle ( D. sessilifolia ) which is a zone 4 plant and our native Northern bush honeysuckle ( Diervilla lonicera ) that is hardy to zone 3. These honeysuckles have several attractive features. Both tend to be adaptable to varying light levels as well as soil types, are good for erosion control and neither has serious pest problems. So, feel free to plant honeysuckles in your yard just be cautious about the type you are introducing into your garden. Photo by Amanda Drews Honeysuckle thicket before blooming Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/bush-honeysuckle https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/bush-honeysuckles.html https://extension.umn.edu/my-minnesota-woods-news/scouting-invasives-species-fall https://mipncontroldatabase.wisc.edu/search?name=Morrow%27s_honeysuckle&habitat=7&season=8 https://news.wisc.edu/invasive-shrubs-increase-spread-of-tick-borne-disease/ Photo Credits: Amanda Drews (1-5)

< Back Roasted Stuffed Butternut Squash Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a special vegetable dish for the holidays? Or, how about a vegetable-main dish combination perfect for cold winter nights? What vegetable could fit the bill better than butternut squash? This recipe will make your mouth water and your tummy full. Ingredients Topping : 1/4 cup crumbled Feta Fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano as a garnish Honey (optional) Filling: 1lb. (uncooked) of your favorite sausage Squash: 1 large Butternut Squash, halved and seeded 2 TBSP Olive oil Salt and pepper to taste or, Garlic salt and smoked paprika. Directions Preheat oven or grill to 400° Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush olive oil on squash halves. Make several cuts in the neck and cube the neck, putting the cubes in the seed cavity. Season to taste with salt and pepper or garlic salt and smoked paprika. 4. Stuff with the sausage. If using the grill, place on an aluminum baking sheet, or whatever you might ordinarily use. Cook cut side up for 40-45 minutes or until done. Top with feta cheese. Drizzle with honey, if desired. Run under broiler for a bit, if you want more color. Garnish with fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-5)