< Back Find Plants for Tough Sites Have you ever fallen in love with a plant that you know in your brain won’t grow in your garden but your heart made you buy it anyway? You bought that sun-loving plant and planted it – full of hope - in your shady garden. Didn’t work out? Unfortunately, wishing, and even tender loving care, can’t make a plant grow if it is in the wrong garden space. Fortunately, this article tells us about a resource that can help you find just the right plant for even tough garden sites. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Over my many years of gardening, one of the most important, yet difficult lessons that I seem to have to re-learn time and time again, is that a plant will thrive best if it is planted in a location where it gets the type of sun, moisture, and soil required for its species. It is so tempting fall in love with a sun-loving plant and convince yourself that you can make it grow in your garden – the one that is all shade. Unfortunately, wishing, and even tender loving care, can’t make a plant grow if it is in the wrong garden space. For those of us whose gardens consist of poor soil conditions or natural landscape impediments, it is especially difficult to find plants that will be successful. So, how do you know which plants will thrive in your clay or sandy soil or on your steep backyard slope? Finding the right plants for your area can be challenging, but not impossible. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension has produced a free, easy and thorough reference guide that can help you meet the challenge. Click on this link to access “The Best Plants for 30 Tough Sites,” written by Minnesota Master Gardeners and Extension Educators Mary Meyer, Deborah L. Brown, and Mike Zins. The reason why I like this guide so much is that it provides extensive lists of plants and their characteristics for those areas that can be limiting. Rather than waste money buying plants that do not fit your situation, use this guide to find plants that can grow successfully. The reference guide covers: Alkaline Soil Annuals 3 Feet or More Annual Vines That Grow Quickly Boulevard Gardens: Perennials and Small Trees Broadleaf Evergreens Clay Soil Cold Tolerant Annuals Compacted Sites: Trees Crevice Plants Deer Resistant Plants Dry Soil: Annual Foliage Plants, Shade or Under Trees and Trees Fragrant Annuals, Perennials, and Shrubs Indoor Low Light Knot Gardens Lakeshore Native Plants Long-Blooming Perennials Rain Garden Plants River Banks and Canoe Public Access Areas Self-Seeding Perennials Septic Mound Plants Shade: Shrubs, Small Trees, and Tall Perennials Steep Slopes Trees That Produce Minimal Litter Under a Black Walnut Tree While the guide does not show a picture of each plant, it does provide you with a place to start looking. I have used this guide many times and I hope it helps you find that perfect plant for your landscape. Photo Credit: learn.e-limu.org (All Creative Commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Ideengartencrimmitschau.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (3)

< Back Beware of Ticks! But What if There Were No Ticks? BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener We are well into tick season and unfortunately, the Minnesota Department of Health has observed an increase in Emergency Department visits related to tick bites over the past few months. We may be tempted to yearn for the eradication of ticks from our environment. Who needs them! This article provides a refresher on how to reduce the likelihood of receiving a tick bite and also explores the impact on the environment if ticks did not exist. Beware what you wish for! As I write this article, it is already mid-June; well into tick season. The Minnesota Department of Health has observed an increase in Emergency Department visits related to tick bites over the past few months. This rise is consistent with the annual increase in tick-borne disease. The scientific name for the deer tick is Ixodes scapularis . It is more commonly referred to as the blacklegged tick and is widely known as the primary vector for transmitting Lyme disease in North America. Photo Credit Griffen Dill; Courtesy UMaine Cooperative Extension I expect that most of you readers are up to date on the current information to protect yourselves from incursions with these gross, spider-cousin critters but here is a reminder. Carefully tucking pants into boots, long-sleeved shirt tucked into pants when strolling in or near wooded and brushy areas; plus applying insect repellents such as DEET and picaridin remain the best methods of personal protection. Confirm the package has an EPA Reg. number that verifies the product is approved and safe for human use. Conduct close surveillance on your four-legged friends upon returning home. You should examine your body for the ticks who may have chosen you for their blood meal. Make it “fun,” grab a buddy and check each other! That’s not too weird, is it? Launder the clothes you wore and use a hot clothes dryer. While performing these tasks you may wonder - what if there were no ticks. Photo credit: Minnesota Department of Health If there were no ticks in Minnesota, the state’s outdoor lifestyle would be transformed. Minnesotans and their pets could explore the woods and tall grasses without the constant threat of Lyme disease. However, entirely wiping out ticks might cause significant ecological disruptions, as ticks serve as a food source for some birds, amphibians, and reptiles, while also helping keep small mammal populations in check. Though these predators do not eat ticks exclusively, the loss of this food could threaten borderline populations of certain species. Oh yes, theoretically, there could be major ecosystem impacts. Ticks help control the population of host animals, such as deer and small rodents. Without ticks, these populations could swell rapidly, leading to overgrazing and damage to local flora. Ticks are part of the diet of wild turkeys, guinea fowl and opossums (though not as many as previously reported in Maine). But systematically reducing tick abundance is likely to remain the most effective method for preventing tick-borne diseases. Most recent research on reducing tick numbers has focused on the targeted delivery of chemical insecticides to particular hosts. These methods seem promising, but more rigorous tests are needed. Several methods of biocontrol of ticks, including parasitoids and some bird predators, have been shown to reduce tick numbers in some situations. Perhaps the most promising method of biocontrol is the targeted use of fungal pathogens, which has been shown to reduce tick numbers both directly (through mortality) and indirectly (through reductions in fitness). These preliminary successes demonstrate the importance and potential of rigorous research into novel and existing methods of biological control of ticks. [ Biosciencemag.org , May 2006 / Vol. 56 No. 5] While ticks are a nuisance and vectors for severe illnesses (like Lyme disease), they are deeply ingrained in the food web. Ticks act as evolutionary pressures that keep wildlife populations in check. Many scientists still emphasize that eradicating them could do more harm than good by collapsing fragile ecological balances. Instead of eradication, experts focus on managing the risks through practical prevention, vector control, and medical research like tick-borne illness vaccines. Want to learn more current information? Connect to this CDC Site: https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/after-a-tick-bite/?CDC_AAref_Val=https://www.cdc.gov/ticks/removing_a_tick.html

< Back Fall Planting Tips Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Fall is a great time for planting! Fall is a great time for planting! As long as you water consistently until the ground freezes–and continue to water again in early spring–your new trees, shrubs and perennials will take hold nicely. Planting in the fall avoids risks of mid-summer drought and heat stress that can decimate young or transplanted foliage. You can also find some great bargains at your local garden centers. Check out these tips for successful fall planting. Enjoy the fruits of your labor next spring by enhancing your landscapes and garden beds this fall. The key to success is consistently watering these plants until the ground freezes in mid- to late November. Step 1: Walk through your yard with a critical eye. Take notes and photos of areas that would benefit from moving things around or adding some fresh new plant material. Are there holes to be filled? Are there weeks when nothing is blooming? Are there overgrown or declining shrubs and plants that should be replaced? Step 2: Fall is a great time to dig and divide most perennials. And it’s the only time to divide peonies and other spring bloomers. Make a list of plants that are too large for their current space. Decide where to place them based on light, water and soil requirements. Remember, some perennials will take several years to return to full bloom and size after you transplant or split them. Step 3: Aim for early fall to plant new Zone 4 perennials, shrubs and trees (it’s best to avoid pushing to Zone 5 in fall). This allows plenty of time for roots to become established before winter, and they’ll be ready to grow early next spring. How about some instant gratification with new fall color from sugar maples, ginkgoes, burning bushes or other fall-blooming plants? Adding a thick layer (at least 4 inches) of mulch under new trees and shrubs will hold moisture and reduce winter injury. Step 4: Consider planting some spring-blooming bulbs–any time until the ground is frozen. Pair the bulbs with perennials that will fill in the space by late spring or early summer. That way, your bulbs can die back without becoming an eyesore in the garden. Step 5: If you have a vegetable garden, fall is the time to harvest and then direct seed a fall cover crop like ryegrass, rye, rapeseed, oats winter wheat or winter rye. Cover crops improve soil fertility and reduce erosion from winds and rain. Finally, visit your local nursery or garden center for great deals on trees, shrubs and perennials for fall planting. Enjoy! For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: Upper Midwest home garden care calendar | UMN Extension How and when to divide perennials | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Buckthorn Removal Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, what kind of treatment plan should you use? Read on for tips to use in removing this invasive plant. Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn control is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, how can the home gardener attack this problem? The best time to find and remove buckthorn is in the fall and early spring. If you are lucky enough to have just a few small plants, you can pull the seedlings and check for new plants every year that may have taken root. For more established infestations, first remove all the berry producing buckthorn on your property as this limits the buckthorn’s ability to multiply. For larger infestations, you may want to remove the buckthorn in sections at a time. Buckthorn plants that are less than 2 inches in size can be removed by hand or by using an Uprooter or Root Talon. Plants greater than 2 inches in size should be cut at the soil surface using hand tools, chain saws, or brush cutters. Buckthorn that has been cut at the soil surface must be chemically treated or it will return with a vengeance. Chemical options include treating the stump immediately after cutting with Garlon 3A/Vastlan, Garlon 4, or other brush killers with triclopy or glyphosate (Roundup/Rodeo) to prevent re-sprouting. You can also try non-chemical treatment which includes covering the stump and flare with a tin can or black plastic. Use nails to affix the can or tie to affix the black plastic. If you’re treating buckthorn near water, use an herbicide labeled for aquatic use. For how and when to dispose of buckthorn, refer to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture’s “Guide to Removal and Disposal of Noxious Weeds in Minnesota.” Many compost sites will also accept buckthorn, but be sure to check with your county for suggestions on disposal. Controlled burning may be an option but will need to be done every 2-3 years. Some cities may haul away your cut buckthorn. Check with your city for their policies. Finally, buckthorn is a persistent uninvited plant. Even after removal, keep checking your garden for new sprouts and remove them immediately to avoid a larger infestation. There are many hardy and attractive native plants available to fill the areas where you have removed your buckthorn. For more information on buckthorn removal, click on the following links: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/buckthorn/control.html or Common buckthorn (umn.edu) Photo credits: Friends of the Park (1), Minnesota DNR (2), Deviant Art (3)

< Back The Power of Edamame Edamame is a recently popular vegetable that deserves a place in your garden and kitchen. Rich in protein, antioxidants and fiber, it has many health benefits. Edamame can be eaten in many different ways. Read more about this powerful vegetable in this article. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Edamame is a name for immature green soy beans. It has been enjoyed in Asia for a long time and now it is catching on in western cuisine. In the U.S., you will find it in the frozen vegetable section. It will be in the pod and is meant to be steamed or boiled. The pod isn't edible, but the beans slip out easily after cooking, to be eaten immediately or used in other dishes. They are good cold too. In addition to tasting good, there are some promising health benefits. A life-long diet rich in soy has been linked to a reduced risk of breast cancer. Edamame can reduce the LDL (bad cholesterol) if soy protein replaces animal protein. Isoflavones found in edamame can have an effect similar to estrogen, and may reduce menopause symptoms. Edamame is low on the glycemic index making it attractive to people with type II diabetes. It is a good source of vitamin C, calcium and iron. https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-edamame Edamame can be eaten raw or cooked, tossed in a salad, mashed with garlic on toast or put into pasta or hot dishes. You can find dry-roasted, salted edamame snacks that are vegan, gluten free, Kosher, and non-GMO. If you grow you own, you can make your own snacks! With all these benefits it is great to learn that edamame is also easy to grow! Many seed catalogs will carry Tohya seed (an early variety, 78 days to maturity), but there are also Karikachi (85 days) and Chiba (83 days) varieties. The last and first frost dates for Dakota County are May 8th and October 10th. Knowing these dates and the days to maturity will help inform your choice of variety. Plant the seeds about 6” apart and 1” deep, after the last frost date. They do not respond well to being started indoors and transplanted. They need well-drained soil and don't like wet feet. They have very few pests and most vegetable varieties have been bred for resistance to aphids and Phytophthora root rot. The plants can be up to 2.5 feet tall, the pods are about 2.5” and contain 2-3 beans. Most pods ripen at nearly the same time, but if you leave the smaller pods they will get bigger later. They are open-pollinated, so it is possible to save seed. Try this is recipe from the North Carolina Cooperative Extension: Crispy Edamame Ingredients: 1 (12 ounce) package frozen shelled edamame (green soybeans) 1 tablespoon olive oil ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese Salt and pepper to taste Directions: ● Preheat the oven to 400° F (200°C). ● Place the edamame into a colander and rinse under cold water to thaw. Drain. Spread the edamame beans into the bottom of a 9 × 13 inch baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle cheese over the top and season with salt and pepper. ● Bake in the preheated oven until the cheese is crispy and golden, about 15 minutes. Read more at: https://lenoir.ces.ncsu.edu/2018/02/dont-be-afraid-of-the-little-green-bean-2/ Growing edamame is easy and rewarding. Eating it is delicious! Give it a try! Photo credits: www.ourfood.nl (1), www.flickr.com (2), Pumpsandiron.com (2)

< Back Shoot Your Plants Like a Pro July – when we can walk out into our gardens and are captivated by the beauty of our plants, vegetables or trees – nature. It’s natural to want to capture the beauty of nature in a photograph. With the advent of the iPhone, and its pal the Android phone, we have all become photographers, or so we think. Often the subjects we photograph do not come out looking as well as they did in real life. There is more to photography than pointing your camera and clicking the button. Here are some tips to help you take better photos. Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener With the advent of the iPhone and its pal the Android phone we have all become photographers, or so we think. Often the subjects we photograph do not come out looking as well as they did in real life. As I found out growing up with a professional photographer, there is more to photography than pointing your camera and clicking the button. Here are some tips to help you take better photos. We will be concentrating on photographing plants, but the tips are general enough to help you with whatever you are photographing. Tip #1 : Hold the camera steady, and click the button slowly and gently. This matters less these days with the new camera phones, which are very forgiving, and compensate for movement (but NOT actual jiggling). However, other cameras, like the single lens reflex (Canon and Nikon), will not, and the result will be a blurry photo. To counter involuntary movement, prop yourself up against a tree or other object, but whatever you do, try to stay as still as possible. Unlike birds and butterflies, plants don’t move (unless buffeted by the wind), so taking into account THEIR movement when photographing is something we can skip. Tip #2 : Don’t try to get everything in one shot . It’s tempting to throw in a lot of plants, especially when photographing your garden, but resist the temptation. Focus on one plant or small group of plants and fill the frame. Your shot will have more impact. Tip #3 : Don’t shoot everything at eye level. It’s boring . Shooting from below, or above, is a more effective angle. Or shoot through - especially if the plant is large or has interesting foliage or intricate branches. Tip #4 : Pay attention to the light. Time of day is important. Mid-day light is harsh light. Avoid it. The same goes for shade. Take advantage of the soft light of early morning and late afternoon (pros call that golden light before sunset “the magic hour”). Shoot your photos with the light behind you. Tip #5 : Use the rule of thirds . This means dividing your subject into thirds, horizontally or vertically. Place your subject to the left or the right of the line, not in the center . This makes for a much more balanced and interesting shot. Tip #6 : Avoid shooting from afar. Don’t shoot from too far away. Isolate the color or subject you are trying to emphasize. Moving in closer and filling the entire frame with just part of a single flower often creates a greater impact. You don’t get any distracting background and the fine detail of the flower is clearly visible. It may be obvious to you what the point of the photo is - after all, you are the one taking it - but your viewer may have no idea what stands out for you in a photo where everything is tiny. Tip #7 : Pay Attention to Your Background Good, clean backgrounds are essential to plant photography. A messy, distracting background ruins an image and pulls the eye away from the subject. Learn to position yourself. Before you take your photograph, look through your lens and move around. Watch what happens. Moving just a fraction of an inch can completely change a background and eliminate distracting elements You can also move in and eliminate your background altogether. Moving in directs the viewer to what you want her to see. This creates a powerful impact. Final Tip: Crop . In other words, cut it out. My photographer father was a big fan, and I am too. Get rid of the extraneous things that, in spite of your best efforts, ended up in your photo. It is one of the smartest things you can do to improve your photo. Examples include: 1) You shot from too far away, and the focal point of the photo is unclear; 2) You included more elements that you should have. It seemed like a good idea at the time but upon review you see that less would definitely would have been more; and 3) You held the camera crookedly and need to straighten the photo. The new camera phones with their picture taking features make this so easy that anyone can have professional looking photos. The crop feature is flexible. Experiment. Crop a bit, crop a lot. Cut out this or that part and see which you like better. Save that one. Or if you can’t make up your mind save 2 or 3. You can always delete them later. With time, you will discover how to crop and create the most impact. Editing/Cropping on iPhone On your phone or laptop go to the “edit” button and click on it. On the iPhone there is a small square with tiny “tails.” Tap on it. You will have the option to “straighten” your photo if it is crooked, but what you are really looking for is the “resizing” feature. These are white lines that you click on, then hold. Move inward until the lines encompass the part of the photo you want to resize or preserve. for instance, you may want to eliminate dead foliage, focus on a rose and its bud instead of the entire bush, or emphasize the deep color of a particular bloom. The crop feature allows you to do that. When you have the new photo you want, click “Done.” You now have a professional photo! It you want the original photo and an edited one, just duplicate the original then edit, crop and save. Follow these tips and you will “shoot like a Pro” in no time. References Belmont, Anne, “Flower Photography Tips for Capturing Stunning Photos”, https://visualwilderness.com/fieldwork/flower-photography-tips-for-capturing-stunning-photos Digital photography: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/WC095 Dunsford, Rob, “10 Tips for Taking Stunning Iphone Photos of Flowers”, https://iphonephotographyschool.com/flowers/ 4-H photography project Extension.umn.edu › 4-h-projects › 4-h-photography-project Photo Credits: S. L. Ball, Master Gardener (MN and FL)

< Back For Healthy Plants, Understand Your Soil First As you start to prepare your garden for spring planting, attending to the quality of your soil is one of the first things on the list. Testing and possibly amending your soil may not be as fun as planting, but these steps are crucial to the health of your plants. This article explains how to understand your soil and how to make it a beneficial host for your vegetables, shrubs, trees or flowers Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener It all starts in the ground! Soil – or ‘dirt’ – is a critical component of gardening, along with water and sunlight. Soil is often the cause of plant problems and for this reason, it is important to understand what kind of soil you have. While this could become quite technical, there are some basic concepts that will help you understand what kind of soil you have and what actions you could take to improve it. As Dr. Anne Sawyer, from the University of Minnesota Department of Soil, Water, and Climate says, “healthy soils, healthy plants”. Dr. Sawyer explains that the soil is alive, full of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and other organisms that support plant growth. In an ideal planting situation, the soil would be loamy. This means water moves through the dirt, it has a good mix of nutrients, and provide plants with the ability to grow their roots out with ease. Loamy soil looks black and crumbly and if you squeeze it gently, forms a ball or log. Clay soil is the least ideal type of medium for growing plants. If you squeeze it, it will form a solid ball. Clay soil does not allow water to filter through the soil particles, often creating puddles or little ponds. It is very compact. Plants struggle to grow their roots and often look stunted and unhealthy. Fruit and vegetables are unlikely to produce a good harvest. Sandy soil, like loamy soil, filters water but it filters water quite quickly, making it difficult to maintain a good moist soil. If you try to squeeze sandy soil, you will not be able to form any kind of structure. Plants grown in sandy soil require frequent watering and may sometimes look a little wilted. To further test your soil, you can do an infiltration test , which can be done with a soup can! This is a simple way to see how well water is draining and how long it takes your soil to absorb water. When possible, it is best to perform this test when the soil is dry so you can get a more accurate test. This infiltration test site provides step by step instructions. The good news is that you can amend most soils. That means you can improve your soil by adding organic matter. This can help to improve the soil’s water filtration (permeability) and aeration (air flow, oxygenation), which helps it to become similar to that ideal loamy soil. Soil amendments can also bring in nutrients that plants need to grow and thrive. For sandy soil , you would introduce materials that will give it more structure and help hold in the water or slow its movement. The amendments may include compost, peat moss, or decomposed/composted manure (never use ‘fresh’ manure – it can burn plants). For clay soil , you want to try to break up the solid mass. You would also thoroughly mix in compost and peat moss or other organic materials. However, to be frank, clay soil can be daunting to amend. Many people find they are not able to improve the soil sufficiently to create a better growing environment. Often the best solution for those with clay soil is installing raised beds and filling them with good garden soil. This article is not going to delve into several other important factors present in soils but you should know that plant problems may also be caused by several other soil-related factors. For example, knowing the ph of your soil (is it acidic or basic) can significantly impact plants. For this reason, it is usually recommended that you test your soil. Other articles in the Garden Buzz have talked about soil testing. You also can go right to the University of Minnesota website to learn more about soil testing and get instructions on how to take a soil sample and where to send it for testing. As you start to prepare your garden for spring planting, attending to the quality of your soil is one of the first things on the list. Not only will your plants be happier, so will you! Resources: Healthy Soil, Healthy Plants Managing soil and nutrients in yards and gardens Soil Testing What’s My Soil Type? Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), www.flickr.com (3), Pngimg.com (4)

< Back Raspberry Delights Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Yes, it’s December and there probably isn’t anything growing in your garden right now, since you live in Minnesota. But not that long ago you may have had a bumper crop of berries that are now in your freezer. Here’s a fresh idea for strawberries, blackberries, gooseberries, and raspberries. I love raspberries. After all what’s not to like? (Don’t answer that. They do have thorns, but I can overlook one minor flaw). They are sweet and sour all at once, have a fresh fruity fragrance and come in a variety of colors and flavors. And most important, they have seeds that stick in your teeth, which gives you a really good excuse to chew on a toothpick – something my mother never let me do. She said I was going to trip and fall, and it would go through the roof of my mouth (which has never happened). I grow a variety of raspberries. Most of my plants bear red berries that all get ripe within a 3 to 4 week period in the middle of July. I also have a few black raspberries, which are so little and sweet, it’s an absolute delight to eat them fresh off the bush. My golden raspberries are deer magnets, so last spring I moved them all into the end of my fenced-in vegetable garden where the deer and rabbits can’t eat them. They ripen all season long. Note - they do not work well for the recipe below because their golden color turns to brown when heated. Last July, my brother and his family were visiting from Oregon. I was watching the kids for the day while mom and dad had a break. The raspberry bushes were loaded with raspberries ready for picking, so I marched the kids down to the patch to pick with the promise that we were going to make raspberry treats, IF we could pick enough berries. With this motivation, they grabbed buckets and followed me down. They were so excited to see all of the berries and eagerly started picking. Suddenly, “Auntie, what’s this?” and “Oh yuck”, then, “Auntie, there are bugs everywhere!” The bushes were covered with Japanese beetles. They were devouring the raspberry leaves and even some of the berries. I said, “This is war, show no mercy!” They looked askance at me. “Don’t let the invaders destroy my berry patch!” I commanded. “Can we just flick them off?” my niece asked. “No, that doesn’t do any good they will just come right back.” Then I told them to do what I usually do, “You have to pinch their heads until you hear a satisfying crack.” I nearly caused a stampede back to the house with those instructions. So, I quickly changed to a softer approach, “here’s a bucket with soapy water in it, brush them into them into it or shake the branch over the bucket.” That was something they could do. We divided our team into 2 bug brushers and 3 berry pickers. In no time at all we had a couple of buckets full of berries, plenty for Raspberry Tarts (see that recipe in the Master Gardener Cookbook, for sale on our website) and Raspberry Stars . We gently washed the berries and then mixed 2 cups of them with 2 Tablespoons sugar, and 2 tablespoons corn starch dissolved in ¼ cup of water . The rest of the berries were divided between some for freezing and some for eating fresh. Then we made the Raspberry Stars. They are best eaten when still warm out of the oven. They don’t keep, so we took one for the team and ate all 18 of them with tea! They also make a beautiful Christmas morning pastry because of their color and shape. A light dusting of powdered sugar gives a snowy touch. I am hoping you have some raspberries in your freezer that you can use for the Raspberry Stars, but if you don’t, store bought Raspberry Jam works too. Raspberry Stars 1 Puff Pastry Sheet (each sheet will yield 9 pastries) 4 Tablespoons Filling (see above for recipe) OR Raspberry Jam 1 Egg 1 Tablespoon water Powdered Sugar for dusting Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper. Lay frozen puff pastry on clean work surface and allow to thaw 10 minutes or more. Do not unfold until thawed. Unfold and cut it into 9 equal squares. Beat the egg in a small bowl with the water, set aside. With a sharp knife tip, score L-shaped cuts at the corners of each pastry square. You may need to use a kitchen shears to cut the L-shapes after using the knife. Place 1 teaspoon filling onto the center of each square. Take the outer corner of each puff pastry and fold over into the middle. Dip you finger in the egg water and use it to ‘glue’ each tip into the center. Do this with all four corners, shaping folds into a bow. Using a pastry brush, brush the edges of the pastries with the egg water. Bake for 13-14 minutes or until they puff up and the edges are golden. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack. Dust with Powdered sugar and serve. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Mindfulness in the Garden with Kids Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Winter is a lovely time to experience and appreciate nature. The muted colors and slower gardening pace allow us the opportunity to take in and observe our natural environment more closely. Observing nature in winter with the children in your life enhances the experience. Watch your children, not only learn, but interact joyfully with the peaceful winter world around them. Read this article for tips about how to experience mindfulness in our natural spaces with children. We have heard about the mental and physical benefits of time spent in nature. Winter is a time when many of the colors of the warmer seasons are muted, and there is a hush as snow covers the garden and landscape. Mindfulness speaks to an intentional approach to experiencing our natural spaces - both outdoors and inside. We can do this in all seasons, but winter is a great time to slow down and focus before the explosion of sensory stimuli we anxiously await in spring. DO Here are five ways to practice mindfulness in the garden with kids. 1. Get up close to different textures and take some time to really look. Ask your child partner what they see once the leaves have fallen and we can find the contrasts between the bark, stems, and other organic materials against the snow on the ground. 2. Continue on a walk to visit dormant perennials and bulbs you may have planted last summer and fall. Ask your child partner what they think is going on with the plants underground. 3. Calmly look around your garden. Do you see or hear signs of the creatures that spend the winter there, such as nests or tracks in the snow? What do you think it feels like for those creatures in their winter homes? 4. Find a quiet place to sit - on the ground or on a garden bench perhaps. Close your eyes and listen to the garden while taking some slow breaths in - counting 1, 2, 3 - and out - 1, 2, 3. Do this a few more times before continuing your mindful garden walk. 5. Color awareness: take some time to observe colors in your winter garden - maybe some red branches of a dogwood, or brown leaves, or even some faded yellow flowers. Can you see why some plants and trees are called evergreens? How do you feel when you look at the plants around you? Winter weather making it difficult to get outside? We can practice mindfulness in our indoor gardens too. Take a slow tour of house plants, and pause to breathe deeply at each one. Ask your child partner for their observations of color, shape, or even what they would call the plant Plant a few seeds in a pot or tray and place in a warm, bright spot. Make a practice of visiting the seeds and any sprouts, and just taking time to observe what you see. Take some cuttings of plants - such as Trandescantia - and place in a clear glass or vase of water. Pay attention to any roots that grow and ask the child how this helps the plant. Most importantly, mindfulness in our gardens and other natural spaces allows our children of all ages to slow down and practice awareness in a busy world. It’s okay if they find treasures or want to make a drawing along the way, but the focus is on the present - a good skill for gardeners of all ages! READ And here are some books to read with your child gardener: Sing a Season Song , written by Jane Yolen and illustrated by Lisel Jane Ashlock At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=sing+a+season+song On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sing-Season-Song-Jane-Yolen/dp/1568462557/ref=sr_1_2?crid=14CIL143WDVQ9&keywords=sing+a+season+song&qid=1640814878&s=books&sprefix=sing+a+season+song%2Cstripbooks%2C152&sr=1-2 If I Were a Tree , written by Andrea Zimmerman and illustrated by Jing Jing Tsong At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?q=If+I+were+a+tree On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/If-Were-Tree-Andrea-Zimmerman/dp/1620148013/ref=sr_1_1?crid=RITY8K7B18WU&keywords=if+i+were+a+tree&qid=1640814994&s=books&sprefix=if+i+were+a+tree%2Cstripbooks%2C101&sr=1-1 (Making Tracks) Park by Cocoretto (Board Book) At Dakota County Library: https://search.dakota.lib.mn.us/client/en_US/default/search/results?qu=park+cocoretto&te=&lm=NONDIGITAL On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Making-Tracks-Cocoretto/dp/1786282933/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ANJRGNFUF6L8&keywords=park+cocoretto&qid=1640815429&s=books&sprefix=park+cocoretto%2Cstripbooks%2C93&sr=1-1 Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke

< Back BULBS 101 Snowdrops and daffodils are harbingers of spring, the first flowers to appear after the snow has melted and the days start to lengthen. For many of us, these early bulbs are a wake-up call, reminding us that the growing season is beginning. Of course, if seeing daffodils makes us want them in our own gardens, it’s too late for this year! For many Minnesota gardeners, bulbs have been in our yards for decades. However, if you’re new to bulbs or would just like a more in-depth look at them, this Bulb Primer is for you! Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener Not all bulbs are bulbs: Understanding the different types: True Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, and Rhizomes Not all of what we home gardeners call bulbs are—technically speaking—bulbs. Horticulturists identify different structures for different flowers, and these terms highlight the great variety we find amongst our favorite flowers. A true bulb has a plate from which roots will shoot, and is made up of several scales or layers like garlic bulbs that contain nutrients for its growth. True bulbs include daffodils, alliums, hyacinths, and tulips. Corms, like crocuses and gladioli, have a similar plate of roots, but no scales; they are a solid, compressed food storage unit. Tubers, like dahlias and begonias, bud from an enlarged rootlike structure which multiplies underground like potatoes, while rhizomes, like canna lilies and lily-of-the-valley, are horizontal structures that look like swollen stems. The horticultural name for bulbs—for all true bulbs, corms, rhizomes, tubers —is geophytes. It’s fitting, as “geo” means “earth” and “phyte” means plant. These plants of the earth all have underground storage organs from which they will grow. Hardy versus Tender Much like Minnesota retirees, the most important distinction amongst geophytes is where they will spend the winter. Do they like the cold or will they need warmer weather? Hardy bulbs are tough enough to survive outside in the wintertime. In fact, that cold snap is vital! Because of this, hardy bulbs are planted in autumn and will bloom for the first time the following spring. Hardy bulbs are often the first flowers to appear in spring: snowdrops, daffodils, crocuses, alliums, and more. They must be buried to the appropriate depth, and in an area with good drainage. Although hardy bulbs can stay in the ground indefinitely, they do require some maintenance. Every 3-4 years, hardy bulbs may need to be dug up and divided to prevent overcrowding. Tender bulbs are too delicate for winter and must be removed from our gardens before a frost sets in. Stored indoors during winter, they can be planted again in late spring for late summer or autumn blossoms. Canna lilies, begonias, freesia, gladiolus, and dahlias are amongst the most popular tender bulbs. Learn how to care for bulbs and rhizomes over the winter to prevent problems and rot. Take care when digging up bulbs, clean the soil from them gently, and in some cases, let them cure for a week in the sunlight before storing them in paper bags out of the light during winter months. For more information, read this article from the U of M Extension. If you want to plant hardy bulbs, you will have to wait for the fall. But you can still plant tender bulbs this spring for enjoyment during the summer. Resources: U of MN Extension: Planting Bulbs, Tubers, and Rhizomes. https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes#soil-preparation-1410662 University of FL: Geophytes. https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/07-geophytes/01-bulbs/02-geophytes-bulbs.html Photo Credits: U of M Extension (1,2), www.flickr.com (3)

< Back Ornamental Grasses Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Interest in Ornamental Grasses has exploded. They can fit into any garden theme. They provide height, movement, and long season color to your landscape. Most questions about ornamental grasses consist of when to plant them, trimming grasses and how and when to divide them. Little Fountain Interest in Ornamental Grasses has exploded. They can fit into any garden theme. They provide height, movement, and long season color to your landscape. Most questions about ornamental grasses consist of when to plant them, trimming, and how and when to divide them. Grasses are classified as cool season, warm season, or evergreen. Below is the difference between all the various types of grasses. COOL SEASON Most growth occurs in spring before temperatures exceed 75 degrees, and in the fall when temperatures cool down. You can cut back cool season grasses in the very early spring as soon as the snow is gone. WARM SEASON Most growth starts mid to late spring and flowers when it is hot. The grasses usually turn shades of brown from winter. The warm season grasses can be cut back in fall or mid to late spring. EVERGREEN GRASSES These ornamental grasses look like grasses but are not classified as grasses. Examples are sedge and carex. Evergreen grasses don’t ever go dormant. Do not divide these grasses as it will wound them and their ability to live through winter. Sedges DIVIDING ORNAMENTAL GRASSES You don’t necessarily have to divide grasses unless you want more plants, the plant has an obvious dead center, or they just haven’t done very well or have been declining in growth. CUTTING BACK ORNAMENTAL GRASSES Resist the urge to cut back younger grasses as it may result in winter injury. Trim plants to 1-2 feet if you want to maintain a tidy appearance but still hold leaves and snow for winter protection. There are so many ornamental grasses to choose from. You can click on the following link to find out some of the various types available. https://www.naturehills.com/grasses/ornamental-grasses . Here are some suggestions for shade tolerant grasses from the University of Minnesota Extension. For native grasses with great fall color , try these varieties: Little Bluestem, Big Bluestem, Switchgrass, River Oats, and Prairie Dropseed. Professor Mary Meyer, grass expert at the University of Minnesota recently named some of her favorite ornamental grasses : Hakone Grass, ‘Goldtau’ Tufted Hairgrass, Bowles Golden Sedge, Palm Sedge, ‘Blackhawks’ Big Bluestem. Blue Heaven Remember, not all ornamental grasses are perennials, some are only available as annuals. They all make a great addition to your garden and add a ton of picturesque scenes in the winter and all year long. Giant Miscanthus References: Ornamental Grasses Care – A Guide to Cutting & Dividing - Proven Winners – Kerry Meyer UM Extension – Ornamental Grasses Photo credits: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Garden Myths Exposed Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Myths abound in the gardening world. The internet provides limitless information, but is it reliable? Or is it a myth that has floated around for so long it has become accepted as fact? To save your time, effort and money, make sure that the advice you read is research-based from a dependable source. In this article, we review several gardening practices and reveal which ones are based on science or myth. Myths abound in the gardening world. The internet provides limitless information, but is it reliable? Or is it a myth that has floated around for so long it has become accepted as fact? To save your time, effort and money, make sure that the advice you read is research-based from a dependable source. In the Garden Buzz, we support research-based information from reliable sources like the Minnesota and other state Extension Services, all of which are supported by the research universities in their state. Departments of Natural Resources, which also exist in every state, are another reliable source of science-based information. In this article, we review several gardening practices and reveal which ones are based on science or myth. MOTHBALLS KEEP RABBITS OUT OF THE GARDEN False - Through a process called sublimation, mothballs slowly convert from a solid into a gas that repels moths, not rabbits or other undesirable wildlife. Using mothballs in a way not specified by the label is also illegal and can harm people, pets, and the environment. PLACING GRAVEL OR POT SHARDS IN THE BOTTOM OF A PLANT CONTAINER WILL INCREASE DRAINAGE False - Rocks or shards in the bottom of pots can block or restrict water drainage because they reduce the size of the drainage hole. Water has difficulty moving from fine-grained soil (such as potting mix) to coarser material (such as gravel or pot shards). The water must saturate the fine-grained material before moving on. The best course is to fill the entire pot with high-quality planting mix. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) LAWNS ARE LOW MAINTENCE False - Lawns are maintenance hogs. To keep your lawn looking good, you must water, mow, fertilize, edge, aerate, and weed. And that's just the beginning. You will also need to trap underground varmints, repair sprinkler heads, (assuming you have a sprinkler system - worse if you don’t - hauling out the hose and repositioning your sprinkler is time consuming and guaranteed to drench you) and seed or patch bare spots. That sound you hear? It's your shrubs laughing at all the time you spend babying that water-guzzling grass. Moral: plant more shrubs or replace your grass with ground cover. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) CRACKING AN EGG UNDER YOUR TOMATO PLANT SUPPLIES NEEDED NUTRIENTS Maybe but not the best practice - Some people bury whole eggs or crushed eggshells in the soil when planting tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot. The theory is that the eggs provide extra calcium to the plants. While some gardeners swear by this method, scientific evidence does not support its effectiveness. While the calcium from eggshells will eventually leach into the soil, it may take some time to break down completely. Whole eggs buried in the soil could also attract pests like rodents or raccoons who may dig up your plants to access the eggs . Instead, focus on overall soil health. Healthy soil, rich in organic matter and beneficial microbes, will provide a much more consistent and reliable source of nutrients for your tomato plants. (University of Minnesota Extension; University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) SOAP WILL KILL GARDEN PESTS True and false - Dish soap can kill small, soft-bodied insects like aphids and white flies but does nothing for insects with hard shells, like Japanese beetles. To be effective, the soapy water needs to not only to touch the insect but also coat the insect's body. This means turning over leaves to reach insects on the underside of leaves. (MN Extension Service; Colorado State University Extension) aphids on underside of leaves Mole crickets and caterpillars hide deep in turf and are difficult to detect. Drenching a small area of turf with soapy water can irritate the pests and cause them to temporarily surface where they can be identified, counted and treated. (Source: FL Extension Service) ADDING COFFEE GROUNDS TO YOUR SOIL HELPS ACIDIFY IT False - Fresh coffee grounds are acidic, but used coffee grounds are not. They're neutral. Therefore, adding your used coffee grounds won't change your soil pH. A better idea is to add used grounds to the compost pile. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) WILTING LEAVES ALWAYS INDICATE THAT A PLANT NEEDS WATER False – There are other reasons that plant leaves wilt, so it’s worth exploring other causes before soaking your plant in water. In fact, wilting leaves could be due to waterlogged soil (which deprives roots of oxygen). Overly moist soil can also promote fungal disease. Certain bacteria may also cause leaf wilt. Another reason leaves wilt is animal damage to the roots. Gophers and nematodes feed on roots. Other animals may create tunnels under your plants that reduce root contract with the soil. Additional reasons for wilting leaves are over fertilizing or excess salt in the soil. (University of Minnesota Extension, University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) GRASS CLIPPINGS LEFT ON THE LAWN CAUSE THATCH False - Thatch is a layer of grass stems and roots, living and dead organic matter that settles on the grass or ground. Excessive thatch, over a half-inch thick, creates an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots. They cause the lawn to grow very rapidly, inhibiting the decomposition of organic matter at ground level. Lawn clippings are often erroneously blamed for thatch buildup. Lawn clippings are very high in water content and rapidly break down. Overwatering and over-fertilizing have more to do with the buildup of thatch. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) MEXICAN PETUNIA IS INVASIVE: DON’T PLANT IT! Maybe - It is true that native Mexican petunia is invasive and nearly impossible to get rid of once it invades. However, three non-invasive cultivars have been developed by the University of Florida and are sold as cultivars 'Mayan Purple’, 'Mayan White' and 'Mayan Pink’. And the sterile cultivar ‘Purple Showers’, taller and larger than its invasive relative, is available at big box stores. (Source: FL Extension Service) Note : All these cultivars are treated as annuals in Minnesota. In conclusion, when you come across advice that is not footnoted, or comes from a dubious source, it is always worth checking with your local extension service or a reliable research source. That will save you time, effort and money if the advice you have received turns out to be a myth. Click here for the University of Minnesota Extension website. References “Coming Clean on Soap in the Garden, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/coming-clean-soap-garden . “Living with Nature and Nuisance Animal,” https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/livingwith_wildlife/index.html “Managing Mexican Petunia (Ruellia Simplex C. Wright) in the Home Landscape,” https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP498 “Managing Plant Pests with Soaps,” https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1248 “Mothballs: Regulation, Proper Uses, and Alternatives;” National Pesticide Information Center, http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/ptype/mothball/regulation.html University of Minnesota Extension; https://extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/coffee-grounds-eggshells-epsom-salts Becky Peterson, “Cracking an egg under a tomato plant.” Ms. Peterson is a Dakota County Master Gardener. UC Marin Master Gardeners; https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/BASICS/GARDEN_MYTHS_BUSTED/ Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,4), www.invasive.org (3)