< Back Starting Seeds Indoors If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil but reading this article will help you learn how to grow seeds successfully indoors. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings growing vigorously in a warm humid environment Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Alternatives to a Christmas Tree: A Greener Christmas Marjory Blare, Master Gardener How many times have you seen dead, dry Christmas trees next to the road? Sometimes they just stay there, sometimes the city picks them up. But there are greener alternatives. Read on for some creative ideas. Some 95 million Americans decorate their homes for Christmas, of those, almost 80 % opt for artificial trees. Most artificial trees are made in China of chemical-laden plastics. The Natural Resources Defense Council estimates that you would need to use an artificial tree for 20 years to offset its eco-impact. There is a growing trend towards renting a live tree. Right now, it is centered mostly on the west coast, but, if enough people express an interest in it, the idea may catch on here. The idea is that you rent a live tree grown in a pot. At the end of the season, you return the tree, and then it is grown on in a climate-controlled environment and rented out for the next season. A tree can be rented out for 7-10 years, whereupon it will be planted to grow and improve the environment. Although not all of these suggestions are totally “green,” here are some creative ways that Minnesotans can decorate for the holidays: HGTV has a list of 40 alternatives , including a chalkboard tree, a string tree and a flowerpot tree. Look at Homes and Gardens take on decorating ideas, including a keepsake tree and a tree made from books. Or, how about Real Homes ideas including a step ladder tree, a firewood tree and a painted peg board tree. Martha Stewart has a list of alternatives including a dowel tree and a twig tree. how to decorate and care for a Norfolk Island Pine. Please consider some of these alternatives if you are in the market for a new Christmas approach. Photo credits: freeimageslive.co.uk (1), Theodora Sanford, Hennepin County (2), Katherine Bjorndahl, Le Sueur County (3), Renee Miller West St. Paul (4)

< Back Minnesota Arbor Day - April 28, 2023 Mary Gadek, Master Gardener “He who plants a tree, plants hope.” ~Lucy Larcom Each year, Arbor Day is celebrated around the world. Each state in the United States sets aside one day each year for its Arbor Day to think about why trees are important to the world and to celebrate them. Minnesota has chosen the last Friday in April for its Arbor Day. Click here to learn why there is an Arbor Day celebration and how to celebrate it with your family. Let’s celebrate our Minnesota trees on Arbor Day, April 28, 2023! Everywhere you go in Minnesota, you see many trees of different types, sizes and shapes. Why celebrate Arbor Day? Arbor Day highlights the power and importance of trees in the World. Trees help our climate . The bad emissions from things like some vehicles and machinery and land use changes have added too much carbon dioxide into our air. Trees can improve the air by pulling in carbon dioxide and then, in exchange, releasing oxygen back into our air. Trees benefit our communities . In addition to cleaning our air, trees filter water and slow storm flooding in our neighborhoods. The shade of a tree near a home or building can keep it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter as well as provide a beautiful area for physical activity. Also, trees have been shown to calm stress when doing activities, like resting under a tree or strolling through a forest. Trees maintain the biodiversity of the environment . “Biodiversity”, or the collection of plants, animals and other creatures in an area, fosters balance among each other that is needed to live, providing food and shelter in an environment. A tree can give shelter on its branches or under its canopy as well as provide seeds and nuts for food to the wildlife around it. How to celebrate Arbor Day? Plant a tree . Arbor Day is celebrated by planting a tree or trees to continue the benefits of trees in our world. Starting as early as February through May, many cities in Dakota County have tree sales, of smaller, bare root trees for economical prices. Perfect for a yard with little to no trees! See links below for some Dakota County tree sales. Participate in one of the many educational activities . The Arbor Day Foundation’s website has many educational resources, including activity sheets and interactive learning pages, to further your child’s knowledge about trees. https://www.arborday.org/kids/ Read about a special tree . The Giving Tree by Shel Silverstein is a picture book for all ages with the main character of a tree giving love and acceptance all of its life. The Giving Tree by Shel Silverstein . Check it out at the Dakota County library. Or purchase on Amazon : So, help you child plant a tree or take part in one of the many educational activities related to trees. Or, on any old day, just take a walk among the trees and help you child appreciate all that trees do for us. Dakota County tree sales links: (this is not an exhaustive list; more sales will become available through May; check your local city or township website if it is not listed below): https://dakotaswcd.org/2023-tree-sale-2/ https://www.lakevillemn.gov/723/Annual-Arbor-Day-Tree-and-Shrub-Sale https://cityofeagan.com/treesale https://www.burnsvillemn.gov/1008/Tree-Sale https://treetrust.org/non-profit/trees-for-sale/mendota-heights/ Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1, 2), Matt Gadek (3), book cover (4)

< Back Guarding the Gardener: Cold Injury Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Most Minnesotans spend the month of January by a nice warm fire, or at least by a nice warm TV. Not so, the avid gardener! There are things to do, last minute trimming, tipping a floribunda rose that you missed in October, cleaning up all those dead stalks that didn’t get clipped. But working outside in Minnesota in January can lead to cold injury. An unwary gardener can easily lose bits and pieces of his anatomy out in the yard if he's not respectful of the cold. Read this article to help yourself to keep safe in the winter “garden.” Most Minnesotans spend the month of January by a nice warm fire, or at least by a nice warm TV. Not so, the avid gardener! There are things to do, last minute trimming, tipping a floribunda rose that you missed in October, cleaning up all those dead stalks that didn’t get clipped. Spring is just around the corner, so get to work! Unfortunately, weather that's good for winter gardening isn’t necessarily good for winter gardeners. Of course, I'm talking about cold injury, something that’s always a potential winter danger up here in the Northern Midwest. An unwary gardener can easily lose bits and pieces of his anatomy out in the yard if he's not respectful of the cold. Not all of us have the luxury of a heated greenhouse. Typically, you're out late in the afternoon, trying to get just a few garden chores done. The sun is waning and the wind is picking up on a frigid stretch of garden. That's an ideal set-up for freezing some part of your anatomy--frostbite! The mildest form of frostbite is frostnip , something that almost all of us have experienced. First, your skin pales or turns red and feels very cold. Keep trying to clip off all those “witches’ brooms” and you start feeling prickling and numbness in the exposed skin. As you finally head back to the house and heat up, your skin warms and you may feel pain and tingling. Frostnip doesn't permanently damage the skin but it sure can be uncomfortable! If you just have to get all those chores done, no matter what and your cold exposure increases you will progress to " superficial frostbite ." The skin that was previously red from frostnip turns a pale white. As you rewarm, the skin may look mottled, blue or purple. You may notice stinging, burning and swelling. A fluid-filled blister sometimes appears 24 to 36 hours later. With superficial frostbite you could have some permanent tissue damage. If you stay out working in the bitter cold even longer, you can progress to severe (deep) frostbite . Here the skin and underlying tissues freezes solid. The exposed finger, toe or nose becomes numb. All sense of cold, pain, or discomfort is lost. The joints don't bend. The muscles don't work. Again, blisters may pop up 24 to 48 hours later. The underlying skin then turns black and hard as tissue dies. You're in big trouble! If you are experiencing anything more severe than frostnip, you should seek medical attention. Of course, there are a number of things you can do to protect yourself from getting into that situation. First of all, wear suitable clothing. That seems like a no-brainer, but how often do you go outside to do chores that “will just take a minute” and stay an hour? The risk of frostbite increases dramatically in temperatures below 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Wind chills below - 16 degrees Fahrenheit can cause severe frostbite in less than 30 minutes. A number of things can increase your chances of getting frostbite. Alcohol or drugs, smoking, dehydration, mental or physical exhaustion all lower your resistance to frostbite. Being at high altitude reduces oxygen supply to tissues and allows damage to occur more easily. Keep that in mind if you are taking a winter vacation to the ski slopes. One final caution: if you or someone with you begins to experience intense shivering, slurred speech, loss of coordination or drowsiness, get out of the cold fast and seek medical attention. These are signs of hypothermia--a lowering of your body core temperature. If that continues, loss of consciousness, heart rhythm disturbance and death can follow. All that “getting ready for spring” stuff can wait ‘till spring! Photo Credits: Wikimedia Commons (1), vriethael.deviantart.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back A Rapid Growing Native Shade Tree: The Birch (Betula spp.) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. But, hold on, there are facts to understand about various types of birch to ensure that the one that you choose will thrive in your yard. This article focuses on three types of birch that are commonly used in Minnesota. So was I once myself a swinger of birches. And so I dream of going back to be. It’s when I’m weary of considerations, And life is too much like a pathless wood… From Birches by Robert Frost The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. Mind, this is a full-sized tree and one that will send out roots from which spring a gathering of birches if left to their own devices. In other words, it probably is not a suitable planting for a small suburban lot. If you do have a bit of room, however, within a few years you can achieve a gorgeous stand of grey-white sentinels, rustling softly in the summer wind, gently presiding over the restrained winter landscape. About seventeen species of birch are native to North America. They are rapid growing, reaching as much as 80 feet in height with a spread about half the height. Birches tend to colonize open ground, especially after a fire or other disturbance. In general, they favor light, well-drained, acidic soils as are often seen as pioneer trees after a burn. Of these seventeen, three species are most often used for landscaping: Yellow birch, River birch and Paper birch. Yellow birch ( Betula alleghaniensis ) is found across the Great Lakes into Minnesota. It is easy to grow from seed and transplants well as is true of all three species. It makes a fine shade tree but should be planted in a moist, sheltered site. So, an area to the north or east of the house would be ideal. Once established, the trunk and limbs display a shimmering silvery to copper gray exfoliating bark. Try crushing the buds or stems. They give off a strong scent of wintergreen! River birch ( Betula nigra ) as the name implies is mostly confined to the flood plains and riverbanks of the Midwest. The lower Minnesota River is a great place to look for them. Unlike its sisters, it is primarily a southern Midwestern tree, cold-hardy up to USDA zone 4. Also, it is susceptible to highly alkaline soils. So, keep plantings away from streets and sidewalks with alkaline concrete deposits. It’s not a street tree. It looks great in clumps developing a charcoal grey trunk over time. The younger bark is an attractive exfoliating white, with cream to salmon shades underneath. Paper birch ( Betula papyrifera ) is greatly prized for its stunning white bark. It prefers the cooler Upper Midwest. Unfortunately, many have fallen to the bronze birch borer. Borer-resistant strains have been developed and should be sought in your local nursery. Paper birch requires full sun and requires well drained soil. It makes a dramatic mass planting on the edge of woodlands, its native niche. So, take your pick, depending on your situation. But a word of caution: don’t swing on them. As Robert Frost once admitted, “It was almost sacrilegious, climbing a birch tree till it bent, till it gave and swopped to the ground, but that’s what boys did in those days”. Plus ça change… Photo credits: Forestryimages.org - All Creative Commons (1-3)

< Back Pumpkin Power: Creative Uses for October’s Harvest Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but as an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes and a great natural fertilizer! Read this article for more information about how to use the familiar and fun pumpkin. Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. Unknown to most, the pumpkin is considered a winter squash and is also considered a modified berry known as a pepo like cucumbers and watermelons. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but also can be promoted as a great natural fertilizer, and an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes! Crafting and Decor: DIY Projects for Fall Everyone knows the most common use for a pumpkin in the fall: carving! A tradition in my household, this activity can be done with the whole family, and each person can personalize them by carving them however they see fit. There are entire websites just dedicated to helping provide ideas for pumpkin carving . Don't forget a candle! If carving isn't your cup of tea, there are also a multitude of no-carve options for turning a pumpkin into a simple art project! Get some paint or markers and turn that crazy berry into a work of art! Whether it's glow in the dark paint , artistic interpretations of woodland creatures , or even stained glass . I know I’m excited to try my hand at hand painted florals , and faux gold paint ! A few eco-friendly options for this seasonal gourd are turning them into bird feeders or even compostable plant pots ! Culinary Uses: Delicious Dishes to Try Pumpkins are great as they are not only good for decorations, but also amazing in cooked dishes and baked goods too. One significant savory pumpkin-based dish is pumpkin soup , that uses broth, cream, and your choice of spices to season. If you have more of a sweet tooth, my favorite thanksgiving recipe is a simple no bake pumpkin pie . Try to use all parts of the pumpkin! The pumpkin flesh, or rind, can be made into great chips ! Pumpkin seeds are also multitudinous, with each pumpkin containing up to 500 seeds. The seeds can also be baked , and they are a great source of protein and iron. My favorite receipt involves coating the seeds in a fine layer of sea salt for a salty snack! Pumpkin in the Garden: A Natural Fertilizer Lastly, as the season comes to a close, pumpkins are one of the first signs that winter is coming, as their decay is coming fast. As these fall icons start to decline, the best thing you can do may also be the best thing for your garden: Compost! You can use a knife or shovel (or even sledgehammer) to break the pumpkins down. Once the pumpkin is into pieces, you can slightly bury the pieces and cover with newspaper and soil (to prevent pests), or allow them to compost in your own compost pile. If you are going to return them to the soil, make sure to remove any decorations and wax, and also ensure to do your best to remove seeds fully or else you may end up with some unwanted sprouts come spring. If your pumpkins are painted or decorated with any kind of marker, sadly composting is not the best option as this can contaminate the soil. Do your best to use what you can, and your garden and yard will thank you. Pumpkins are a foundation of fall and starting your traditions with your family can make the season that much more fun! Try any of the tips and this article to improve your kitchen, gardens, and crafts. Photo credit: www.publicdomainpictures.net (1), Logan Caola (2), flickr.com (3), wikimedia.com (4)

< Back Fruit Tree Pruning Advice I Could Have Used 30 Years Ago Sally McNamara, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you afraid to prune your fruit trees? Are you confused about when and where to cut branches? Master Gardener Sally McNamara learned some lessons the hard way about pruning fruit trees. She is happy to share the wisdom she has gathered over the years so you don’t have to make the same mistakes. Learn about how to protect your trees and prune them properly to keep them healthy and help you harvest the fruit easier. By the time I learned that apple trees, and fruit trees in general, take well to pruning, my apples and pears were well beyond reach. Fortunately, a family dog scratched all the bark off several of them resulting in death, so we were able to start over. (A chicken wire cylinder would have prevented that - so another lesson learned too late). On the new ones we learned that snow ABOVE the tree wrap makes rabbits happy and trees dead. Build a complete fence around very young trees early - those rabbits are active right after fall planting. Now, late February, early March, is the time to prune most trees, apples included. Spring sap will help heal the cuts and renovation invigorates the tree. Tree structure is visible without the impediment of leaves. If there is disease or death, marking those branches in the fall can be helpful for spring pruning. For apples trees which are intended for harvest, restraining them to reachable heights is an achievable goal, especially while they are young. While cutting the main leader is typically NOT what to do when pruning, it IS the solution to controlling heights in fruit trees. Keeping the branches reaching at an angle reaching outward and not so much up is the goal. When looking at where to cut on any tree, consider how to let light and air in and encourage growth out and up . Cut back to an, outward facing bud on the branch. Cut diagonally above the bud, not leaving an awkward stump to encourage entrance for insects and disease. When cutting major branches, for example dead ones or lower ones, to allow for maintenance underneath, cut back only to the branch collar leaving the collar materials to create a natural growth over the pruning wound. (Maintenance underneath an apple tree would include removing dropped apples and leaves to diminish the chance of disease and insects persisting to the next season.) Geriatric apple trees take well to restoration through dynamic pruning. Go for dead, damaged, diseased and crossing first. Then open up for light and air. This might be a multi-year process as removing more than 1/4 of the tree in any one season is discouraged for the health of the tree. Select upward angled branches - horizontal ones can be wet and vertical ones tend not to fruit. Never forget to take those before and after photos! Fruit pruning is an important topic and the U of M has some excellent resources. Visit the U of M Extension for three short but effective videos. Many late winter/early spring days call us to get outside and pruning is the perfect activity: it needs doing, it requires lots of motion and decisions and signals the start of a new season. Photo Credit: Dyck Arboretum (1), deepgreenpermaculture.com (2), North Dakota State University (3)

< Back Give Your Orchid a Vacation Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Orchids are like school children. They have been cooped up in your house all winter. They have treated you well, stayed healthy, and maybe even treated you to blooms; for that they deserve something special: a vacation! It is easy; you don’t need a travel agent, an airline reservation or even a hotel room: just set them outside. Read this article by avid orchid grower, Paul Wood, to learn how to safely grow your orchids outside in the summer. The orchids in your house are not native to Minnesota so being outside is like a foreign country to them; they need some orientation and acclimation to feel comfortable and really enjoy their vacation. Prime Vacation Time Orchids like to take their vacations most any time after our night-time temperatures stay above 50 degrees. They can stay on vacation until the temperatures start dipping below 50 at night. Accommodations For the most part, when you put your orchids outside, they should be in dappled light. Putting an orchid that has been inside all winter into direct sunlight will burn its leaves. This is particularly true if you have Phalaenopsis (Phal) because they grow in the lower story of the forests so they don’t get a lot of light even in nature. The dappled light comes in many forms. My orchids spend the summer on the back deck in the shade of a birch tree and do quite well. There are pot clips you can buy for ceramic pots that allow you to hang the orchids right in the tree. If you don’t have a shady spot, you can use shade cloth to protect your orchids. The level of shade depends on the orchid, but for Phals it is 70-80%. You can build a supporting structure for the cloth, but if you have a pergola you are ready to go. Some orchids like Cattleyas, Dendrobiums or Oncidiums prefer more light than a Phal, but that doesn’t mean direct sun light. Bright diffused light is called for. Be sure to harden them off before leaving them in the brighter light. Spa Treatments Orchids, like any other plant, are subject to pests and disease. While your orchids are outside, it is a great time to give them “spa treatments” to keep them healthy. You won’t find orchid specific pesticides, but any pesticide that can be used on tropical plants will be OK for your orchids. Systemic pesticides are best for sucking pests. Safari ®, Malathion ® or Imidacloprid work extremely well. Mix them with water and soak the roots. Both Safari and the chemical Imidacloprid are neonicotinoids, but there are no pollinators visiting your orchids so from that perspective they are safe to use. Horticultural oil can be used for scale as well. Fungicides are best applied when the orchids enter the spa. The copper-based fungicides or a fungicide with chlorothalonil as the active ingredient work well. Remember that fungicides are preventative, not curative, so prevention is key. There are more natural solutions to pest control than what I noted above. These are best used when the orchids return from vacation. Libation Station What is a vacation without some libation! When your orchids are outside you need to continue to water and fertilize them, but you also need to consider the weather conditions. If it has been hot and dry, they might need to be watered more than once a week, particularly if they are in a small pot. Conversely, if it has been hot and humid or very rainy, you might want to hold back on the watering. Under hot conditions, they enjoy a misting to cool their leaves. Orchids prefer their libations straight up, they don’t like mixes such as chlorine or pH increasers (e.g. city water). Watering from your rain barrel or using RO water will go a long way towards keep your orchids healthy. In summary, don’t be afraid to move your orchids outside in the summer; just be sure to keep them shaded and out of direct sun. While on vacation they still need to be watered and fertilized, just be cognizant of the local weather conditions. While they are outside, use this time to treat them with pesticides to keep them healthy and pest free. Treating them also lessens the chance of bringing pests indoors when the vacation time must come to an end and they return to their job of being a flowering indoor plant for your enjoyment. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! References: How To Care For Orchids Outdoors - Everyday Orchids Heat Stress ( aos.org ) Outdoor Orchid Care - American Orchid Society ( aos.org ) Photo credits: www.justaddiceorchids.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back Learn to Identify Garden Insects – Good and Bad Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener We know that most insects in our garden are beneficial. But when we find insect damage on our beloved flowers, vegetables and fruits, it’s hard not to focus on the damaging insects. A good gardening practice is to keep abreast of the latest research on how to attract good insects and adopt pest management practices to minimize damage from the “bad” insects. By seeking out research-based information on good and bad insects, you can learn about potential damage and a range of control options to make well-informed decisions about managing the pests in your Minnesota garden. Read this article to learn more about good and bad insects and how to tell the difference. Some common pests and how to identify them Leaf Lily Beetle While inspecting my garden in late May, I noticed holes in the Asiatic lily leaves and some red beetles. I confirmed the insect to be a Leaf Lily Beetle, a non-native pest. I learned most of the damage is done by the larva so I inspected the lilies again. As expected, I found muddy brown globs. I cleaned the larva off, removed the beetles and limited further damage by frequent inspection and manual removal of the pest. Leaf Lily Beetle Check out the following articles to learn more about this pest, its lifecycle and control options: Minnesota State Horticulture Society: Scarlet Lily Beetle Infestations Minnesota Dept. of Agriculture (MDA): Lily Leaf Beetle University of Utah: Lily Leaf Beetle Cabbage Worm While working with master gardeners at a local vegetable trial garden, I learned that each year the cabbage is damaged by caterpillars. The first sign of the pest in the garden is a white butterfly with a black spot on each wing. The butterfly and the larva are a match to the imported cabbageworm. Cabbage worm This pest can be difficult to control manually once established and the damage reduces the amount of usable produce. To attempt to control the pest this year, we installed a mesh cover over the cabbage when the small plants were transplanted into the garden. The intent is to minimize damage with early intervention so that the butterflies are not able to lay their eggs. The results for this year are pending but sometimes a new approach is worth trying. Check out the following articles to learn more about common vegetables pests, lifecycles, expected damage and control options from the UMN Extension: Caterpillars on Cole Crops Cropping Calendars for Cruciferous Vegetables, and Pumpkin and Squash under Common insects in vegetable crops Fruit and vegetables crop insects Shrub Rose Pests Three pests attack my shrub roses every year. The damage starts in early May with white spotting on the lower leaves, an indication of sap sucking - Rose Leafhopper . Rose Leafhopper and leaf damage In June I observe green caterpillar-like larvae munching on the leaves - the Rose Sawfly larva (also known as Roseslug ). Leaf damage from Rose Sawfly Adult Rose Sawfly In late June, beetles can be seen destroying the rose blooms - the Japanese Beetle . Japanese Beetle Despite all of this pest activity, the roses can be enjoyed most of the season with some manual control. I squash the leafhoppers early if there is significant damage. I watch for the appearance of the Roseslugs and squash them or drop them into soapy water. This year I also began looking for the sawflies to see if I could disturb them and prevent them from laying their eggs and thus minimize the Roseslug problem. The Japanese beetles are the most destructive and because they are relentless, I knock them into soapy water as frequently as is feasible. The best news is that the pests are mostly gone when the roses bloom a second time in late summer. Check out the following articles to learn more about rose pests, lifecycles and control options: Sawfly and its larvae , Roseslugs are located under Deciduous Trees and Shrubs.(UMN Extension) Rose pests . (UKY, includes Japanese Beetle, Roseslug, Rose Leafhopper and others) What about the good insects? The insects that damage our plants grab our attention but we need to remember that most insects in our gardens are beneficial and play a vital role in the ecosystem. Insects pollinate a wide variety of fruits, nuts, vegetables, and native plants. Insects also decompose plant and animal material, are used in medicine and research and they are an essential food source for many birds, mammals and other insects. An apple exists only when the flower is pollinated. A butterfly exists only when the caterpillar is allowed to mature to adult stage, with essential food sources and the correct host plant. Pollinators Insects that pollinate include wild and domesticated bees, flies, wasps, moths, butterflies and more. Did you know that flies are second to bees in pollination? The syrphid fly appears to be a small bee but is actually a “hover fly” that moves about quickly and feeds on nectar and pollen. I found this pretty little fly hovering and feeding on cranesbill geranium, shrub rose and columbine flowers in my garden. Look for it! Unlike bees and wasps which have two pairs of wings, the syrphid fly has a single pair. It does not sting or bite. Syrphid fly Butterflies are incredibly beautiful and fun to watch, make it your goal to learn about some new butterflies to attract to your garden with nectar and larval host plants for butterflies. Butterfly Gardening . (UMN Dept. of Entomology) Monarch Bumblebees are a joy to watch in addition to the serious pollination work they do. This UMN BeeLab page includes a field guide to identify Minnesota Bumblebees . Bumblebee Predators Some insects are beneficial because they feed on other insects and frequently it is not the adult that provides the most benefit. This is why understanding the insect’s lifecycle and what it looks like in different stages can help us better appreciate their value. Lacewings, in their wingless immature state, eat other insects. Lady beetles are beneficial because they feed on insects, nectar and pollen. Asian lady beetles are a bit larger and are a nuisance if they get in your house, but they are otherwise beneficial because they also feed on soft body pests. Both types have alligator-like larvae, quite different from the domed, hard, round to oval shaped adult beetle. Wasps . There are many types of wasps that help control garden pests. For example, the parasitoid wasp is beneficial because it lays its eggs on pests such as the aphid or imported cabbage worm, to feed on the host. These wasps are tiny so don’t expect to identify them but you may see small eggs or larva on the host. The Syrphid fly is not only a pollinator but also feeds on small insect pests. For more on these and other beneficial insects in Minnesota: UMN extension Beneficial Insects . Tips for successfully identifying good and bad insects In order to know whether you need to take steps to control an insect, you need to successfully identify it. Try this process: Observe Be proactive by inspecting plants and watching for insects when they are expected to appear. Gather Information Take a picture please! This will help you recall details when doing your research What type of insect? Does it appear to be a beetle, butterfly or moth, caterpillar, grub or other? Note size, color, markings, # of wings, etc. Where did you find it? Insect pests tend to be specific to certain plants. Is it on a plant or in the soil? Is there any feeding damage? Sometimes you will have to rely on the damage to do your inquiry when the insect is not present. What time of year is it? Insects emerge at different times of the year, some have annual cycles, others have multiple cycles in one season. Take the information you have gathered and go to reputable sources to identify the insect and how to manage it. Search within the UMN Extension site or another known research-backed site. For a list of Helpful Apps for identifying insects, open the “How to Control Specific Pests” header on UMN Extension Preventing pests in your yard and garden page. Other Resources for assistance: Ask a Master Gardener and Yard and Garden News Anticipate and Plan Accordingly When you’ve learned the lifecycle and the best time to interrupt the lifecycle, you can be more strategic about solving a problem. Keep up the good gardening! We all strive for a beautiful flower garden and healthy fruits and vegetables. So, it is important to identify and control threats from damaging insects early. Try to develop a more observant eye and know when to look; anticipate and plan accordingly. Get to know good insects, learn to attract and protect them! Many resources are available to help you satisfy your curiosity about an insect, or help you solve a problem. But don’t hesitate to ask for help if you get stumped. Additional References on Pollinators Did you know that 70% of native bees nest in the ground: 5 ways to Increase nesting habitat for Native Bees . (Xerces Society) Vegetable Garden Best Management Practices (BPM) for Pollinators including a list of recommended garden plants to support pollinators. An example of a best practice is to plan your garden with flowers, veggies, herbs and fruits intermixed. (UMN) Current status on pollinators and what you can do for them. (MDA) Create pollinator friendly habitat with the Lawns to Legumes program . (The Minnesota Board of Water and Soil Resources) Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1, 3, 7, 8), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 4, 5, 6, 9)

< Back The Sensory Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Memories are often tied to our senses and for many of us, our first or favorite memories occurred in a garden. This article will discuss how to create a sensory garden that will enliven the senses, spark old memories, and hopefully make some new ones for first time visitors. For me, the smell and taste of chives brings up one of my first memories. As a toddler, I would walk around my parent’s vegetable garden and happily munch on a chive that my father handed me as he scanned the garden for ingredients to use in our dinner. The smell of a tomato vine brings me back to when I would visit my grandparents and was asked to go harvest a few tomatoes for the salad we were going to have for lunch. The sound of wind moving through trees, or a slow-moving creek reminds me of time spent playing in a forest, completely carefree. A sensory garden can be any size and can be created all at once or in stages. Let’s explore the different senses and what we can add to our gardens to create a unique sensory experience. Taste Herbs can be started from seed or purchased as mature plants and can be grown in either your garden or in a pot. Here are a few examples of plants that will bring taste into your garden space. Herbs: Basil, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Oregano, Cilantro Vegetables: Carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, spinach, kale, squash, radish Touch Focus on different textures that you can incorporate into your space. Lambs Ears: a favorite among children Succulents : these can be kept in pots or grown in your garden (some are Minnesota hardy!) Feathered Grasses: run your fingers through the grasses as you walk through your garden Spongy Moss: resilient, unique texture Tree Bark: smooth, peeling or textured Smooth Rocks: stepping stones Tactile Elements : pots, planters, ornaments Smell Some plants give off a beautiful fragrance when the wind comes through or when you brush past them on a walk. Even something as simple as fresh cut grass can be counted as an element within this sense. Lavender: the aroma can help soothe and decrease stress – it is also a great pollinator Herb garden: rosemary, mint, basil, and many others can produce a scent when you rub your hands over the leaves Creeping Thyme: you can release the scent of this plant either by rubbing the leaves between your fingers or by stepping on them as they are often used as a ground cover plant Sight One of the greatest rewards in gardening is being able to sit back and observe a space that you’ve created. There are several ways to bring your garden alive that can be enjoyed through each season. Spring & Summer Different types of bird food and feeders will attract a variety of birds A bird bath or water source with the sound of running water will attract birds Milkweed will attract Monarch Butterflies to your yard and if you’re lucky, they will lay eggs on this plant. Some other plants that attract Monarch Butterflies include: Goldenrod, Butterfly Bush, Cosmos, Lantana, Lilac, Zinnia, Asters, Purple Coneflower, Yarrow and Coreopsis Plant climbing plants over arbors and trellises Include plants with different textures and variegation Incorporate a bench to observe your garden Fall & Winter Some native grasses, like Little Blue Stem, will move from green to blue in the summer and then to red in the fall Burning Bush is another plant that will signal the changing season, becoming a vibrant red in fall As the days get shorter, Autumn Joy Sedum will bring a rosy, pink shade into your garden Enjoy the bright red branches of a Dogwood shrub throughout the cold, gray winter months If you have hydrangeas that bloom on new growth, consider leaving their stems and flowers intact throughout the winter for additional winter interest Sound Sound can be added or attracted to your garden. Water Feature: this will create the sound of water and will also attract birds looking for a place to get a drink and to splash in a bath Beneficial Insects: planting pollinator plants will attract busy buzzing bees as well as other pollinators throughout growing season Ornamental Grasses: wind will move through the grass creating movement and a soothing sound Bird Feeders: attract songbirds by offering a variety of seed mixtures Gravel Paths: listen to the crunch of the gravel as you walk the path through your garden Wind Chimes: add a windchime to your garden to create a beautiful tune as a summer breeze blows through The benefits of creating a sensory garden go far beyond simple enjoyment. These gardens are good for sensory stimulation and development, have calming effects, encourage curiosity and allow for reflection and stress reduction. As Master Gardeners we look for ways to engage with our community and their love of gardening. Master Gardeners have created a program called “Growing Connections” that works hand in hand with the Alzheimer’s Association and focuses on sensory gardening activities. Check out our website for information about Master Gardener events and programs. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back It’s August - What Can You Find in Your Garden? Julie Henrichs, Master Gardener The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! Before you begin, remember to adjust your exploration so it is age appropriate and safe for all. Scavenger Hunt options are listed below based on a specific type of garden you may have but any can be combined. ( Italic items are more challenging or may require more research for older children. ) Garden Scavenger Hunt Flower Garden/Flower Planters Find a red flower ( Find a salvia bee balm or geranium flower-how many petals are on each stem?) Find a Hibiscus plant ( Are hibiscus in Minnesota considered an annual or perennial? Answer: There are different types of hibiscus. Some are considered tropical and are annuals unless brought inside for the winter. There is also a perennial hardy hibiscus that can be grown in Minnesota Find a fragrant smelling flower. ( Name the flower found. Do you think marigolds have a fragrant smell?) Find an annual plant. Find a perennial plant. What makes each type of plant an annual or perennial? What is a biennial? Answer: Life Cycles = annual-1 year (marigolds, impatiens); biennial-2 years (foxglove, dianthus) and perennial more than 2 years (hostas, daylilies) Vegetable/Fruit Garden Find a green vegetable ( Find a green bean. What is the difference between a bush bean and a pole bean? Answer: Bush Beans=lower and more compact growing plants; larger harvests over a shorter period of time; usually planted in rows. Pole Beans=vining and climbing plant; smaller harvests but extend over entire growing season; need trellis system to grow on) Find an herb ( Identify the herb found and taste it. What can this herb be used for? Answer: Examples - Basil=pesto; Oregano=pizza; Lemon Balm=tea, salads) Pick a ripe tomato ( What type of tomato did you pick? Example-Roma, Cherry, Grape, Yellow) Find an orange vegetable (Examples: peppers, carrots, pumpkins) Find a root vegetable or the tops of a root vegetable ( What is a root vegetable? Answer: the plant parts eaten are underground-examples are carrots, potatoes and radishes.) Bugs and Leaves Find a bug and explain what it is doing ( Identify the bug found - does the bug benefit or harm the garden vegetation?) Find a tomato plant and look for an unhealthy leaf ( What would make my tomato plant unhealthy and what do the leaves tell me? Answer: pests, disease or an environmental problem. Example: Yellowing leaves can mean a nitrogen, iron, magnesium or potassium deficiency or overwatering. Find a honey bee and tell us three characteristics of the bee. Answer: striped abdomen; amber brown color and four clear wings attached to the thorax. ( Why are honey bees important to our garden? Answer: honey bees are essential for pollinating plants) Find a leaf in the garden that has been chewed on by an insect. ( Turn over the leaves, look near the base of the plants for the bug responsible for the chewed-up leaves. Identify the bug.) Getting outside into your gardens are so much more fun when shared with the children in our lives! Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (1), pxhere.com (2,3)

< Back American Holly (Ilex opaca): Deck the Halls! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener American holly is a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes. But this tree is also a great year-round addition to the landscape. Read this article to learn why. It may be August but I’m getting stoked up for the Holidays, thinking about American holly ( Ilex opaca ), a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes although this tree is a great year-round addition to the landscape. American holly grows to a height of 15 to 30 feet. Native to the Eastern Coast and nearer Midwest, northern cultivars have spread across Iowa and up into Southern to Central Minnesota. When purchasing American Holly, do be careful to select a cultivar that has proven its hardiness in the Midwest. If you have any questions about that, you might consult the website of the Dawes Arboretum in Columbus, Ohio. They have an excellent collection of over 200 cultivars adapted to the Midwest. Mature American holly When selecting your specimen, you must be mindful that American Holly is dioecious. In other words, there are boy trees and girl trees. So, a male tree must be in the neighborhood for female trees to produce fruit. There are a number of hybrids available commercially. They do grow more rapidly than the native variety. However, they are far less hardy. A severe Minnesota winter can reduce their leaves to a dingy brown, not so festive for Christmas. If you are patient, the native cultivars will slowly grow and demonstrate remarkable hardiness. A few points for siting should be kept in mind. American holly is hardy only to Zone 5. So, in Minnesota it is best to select a protected site from the winter winds. Also, it requires full sun to part shade to thrive. Our hot summers can also affect the tree, so it’s best to site is where it enjoys the afternoon shade. Well-drained soil is a must. It does best in a neutral to acid soil, so amendments should be made if your soil is alkaline. fruit of the female tree If care is taken and patience exercised, American holly will provide great rewards. This stately and colorful tree will bring joy and lift the spirits for many a Holiday Season. Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)