< Back What the HECK is a CARDOON??? Had any cardoons as your vegetable lately? What’s a cardoon you say? You won’t be alone if you have never heard of this vegetable. It is more commonly grown and eaten in Mediterranean countries. However, this vegetable can be grown in Minnesota and is available in some grocery stores at this time of year. Read this article if you are interested in a vegetable that offers something different. Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Invited to see someone’s “cardoons”, I wouldn’t know whether to expect a company of gerbil-like creatures romping around in a cage or necklaces made of rare berries. But imagine being presented with a dish of leaves and stalks and invited to eat the cardoons! Cardoons, it turns out, are vegetables, similar to globe artichokes. Grown from Portugal to Libya and Croatia, cardoons, with their artichoke-like flavor, were popular in ancient Greek, Roman, and Persian cuisine through the Middle Ages. They were also used in colonial America and early modern periods in Europe. Once almost entirely a Mediterranean vegetable, cardoons recently returned to the American market. Although not as common as their cousin the artichoke, you can usually find them at farmers' markets, specialty grocers, and upscale grocery stores when they are in season . Unlike artichokes, the tender young leaves and undeveloped flower stalks are eaten, not the flower bud. A winter vegetable, cardoons arrive in stores around December and hang around until early spring. They can keep for weeks in the fridge. Buy them firm and pale. Most of the top leaves will be chopped off already, making them look a lot like celery, although MUCH longer. Cardoons are perennials up to zone 7 and sometimes zone 6 (if mounded with soil during the winter), so they are grown in Minnesota as annuals. They require at least 8 hours of sunlight, and they prefer well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.5–7.0. Add compost or well-rotted manure to improve the soil. Cardoons need a lot of space to spread - plant them 2–3 feet apart in rows 3–6 feet apart. Tall varieties may need staking. Cardoons are easy to grow from seed so they can be started indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost, or you can buy container-grown plants. Cardoons need 100 days to grow from seed to harvest. Propagate cardoons by seeds, suckers, or root division. Both plants and seeds are available online. Blanch the stalks before harvest. Accomplish this by tying up the outer branches a foot or so from the top of the plant and piling soil up around the plant as it grows. This keeps sunlight from reaching the stalks which then keeps chlorophyll from forming, making the stalks more tender and easier to cook. Cardoons can be prepared a number of different ways, although – be forewarned - all of them are labor intensive. The tough ridges of the outer stalks must first be removed and many recipes require hours of soaking. But cardoons can be eaten raw, dipped in hummus or nut butter, the leaves tossed in salads, the stalks cut in pieces, fried, (after being peeled, soaked, poached and breaded), or added to stews, especially those cooked in crock pots. Additional ways to prepare cardoons after initial trimming and blanching include: Cardoons Gratin , in which they are baked with olive oil and cheese. Delicious and well worth making if you only plan to eat cardoons once in a great while. Cardoons in a bechamel sauce. Cardoon risotto . Silky, rich, and the slight bitterness of the cardoons really balances everything nicely. Blanched with bagna cauda , a garlicky-anchovy sauce. Excellent as a canape . In a salad , tossed in a vinaigrette. Simple and good. Use only the innermost stalks, washed well and sliced thin. Fried . An excellent if simple dish. Also, an unusual appetizer, especially coated in chickpea flour and fry with olive oil. And finally - are you ready for this ? - the cardoon’s flowers can be used to make cheese . The enzymes in its dried flowers, when mixed with milk, curdle, albeit slowly. Which results in a rennet which is creamier than calf’s rennet. Portugal, where the cardoon is popular, produces several cheeses using its rennet because of its earthy and tangy flavor. If you enjoy cooking unusual foods, and don’t mind a long preparation time for something really different and tasty, cardoons are for you. Enjoy this ancient and unique vegetable! REFERENCES “Cardoon, Cynara cardunculus”, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/cardoon-cynara-cardunculus/ “Cardoon”, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/cardoon.html Shaw, Hunter, “Growing and Cooking Cardoons”, https://honest-food.net/contemplating-cardoons/ Smith, Annabelle K., “What the Heck Do I Do with a Cardoon”, Smithsonian Magazine , https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/what-heck-do-i-do-cardoon-180950301/ Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), Inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com (2)

< Back Entangled Life “Fungi provide the key to understanding the planet on which we live and the ways we think, feel and behave. Yet they live their lives largely hidden from view and over ninety percent of their species remain undocumented.” So explains Merlin Sheldrake in his fascinating book “Entangled Life.” Read this book review to discover more about the role of fungi in our lives. Reviewed by Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Merlin Sheldrake's book Entangled Life will fascinate you with the many hundreds of ways, (good and bad) in which fungi affect our planet; from billion-dollar world-wide crop damage, to helping fight Colony Collapse Disorder in bees and even helping it rain! Without fungi, we wouldn't have antibiotics, beer, wine or some kinds of bread or that black gold called compost. Plants have formed a symbiotic relation with fungi, which helps the plants take in phosphorous and nitrogen. Fungi can be found not just around the roots but also between the cells of some plants. Did you know that slime molds can “run” mazes”? There are even fungi that “hunt” and digest nematodes. Sheldrake takes us on his journey of discovery while researching fungi. You'll read about exotic locals, exhausting field work, and his experience of participating in an LSD study on whether or not a scientist's mind can solve problems that formerly stumped them while on LSD. Sheldrake doesn't hesitate to speculate on the possibly world-view changing implications of his field of research. You will take away a humbling understanding of our world and its interconnections. Photo Credit: Merlin Sheldrake "Entangled Life" book jacket

REGISTRATION FOR LET'S GET GROWING 2026 IS OPEN! Let’s Get Growing is an event for home gardeners of all skill levels looking to learn more and have a great time. This event includes classes, a keynote speaker, lunch, silent auction and a chance to win door prizes too. Classes are taught by U of M Master Gardeners as well as horticulture professionals. Consider coming to enjoy friendly people and a garden marketplace where you can purchase books and garden décor in a spring time atmosphere! Date Saturday, March 14, 2026 Time 8 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Central time Location Eagan Community Center 1501 Central Parkway Eagan, MN 55121 Schedule 8 a.m. Check in, vendors, and refreshments open 9 a.m. Welcome 9:45 a.m. Session 1 11 a.m. Session 2 12-1 p.m. lunch 1-2 p.m. Keynote speaker Laura Irish-Hanson Session 1 options Enjoying birds and animals in your garden — Matt Schuth Exploring native plants for your garden plans — Andy Scott Diseases in lawns — Jon Trappe, Extension turfgrass educator Helping trees survive and thrive in a changing landscape — Gary Johnson, Extension forestry educator Session 2 options Container garden like a pro — Michelle Mero Riedel Landscaping for clean water — Victoria Ranua Diseases in plants: Prevention, management, and detective work — Laura Irish-Hanson, Extension horticulture educator Stone sculpture in your garden — Peter Juhl (class limit 20) Cost $45 Accommodations University of Minnesota Extension is committed to providing equal opportunity for participation in all programs, services and activities. To request accommodations for persons with disabilities, reach out to the event contact two weeks before the start of the event. Requests received after this date will be honored whenever possible. Language This offering is delivered in English. Interpreter services may be available with an advance request. Speaker Bios Register here Read more

< Back Chow Mein – A Vegetable “Left-Overs” Recipe Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Joy Johnson is a prolific vegetable grower. She has found this recipe for Chow Mein not only delicious but helpful in making use of the abundant vegetables in her cupboards. Whether using your own vegetable stash or those purchased at the grocery store, you will enjoy this recipe! Are you buried in vegetables from your garden? Like me, can you not bear to weed out plants or seedlings? I am always sure that everything will fit in the garden and that not everything will grow and produce. I am usually wrong on both counts! I have a very full garden with the raspberries hanging over the broccoli and the beets, the cucumbers growing on the fence because there is no room for them on the ground and the tomatoes growing up and over the fence, with no room to walk in between the plants. And then I’m always sure I’m never going to get very many vegetables as they start out few and far between, suddenly I’m buried in bowls full of veggies on my kitchen table! Here is a recipe that I’ve been making for years to use some of my mountain of vegetables. Since the words “Chow Mein” actually mean “left-overs”, I have proven over the years that it turns out no matter what vegetables I put in it (don’t put in tomatoes though) and no matter what quantity of vegetables are used. You don’t have to put in the chicken, and if you want it spicier, you can add Italian sausage. If you need to add more sauce because of the quantity of vegetables, you can easily double that part of the recipe. I often serve it topped with the crunchy Chinese noodles and/or cashews. Chow Mein Prepare and have ready: 1 lb pork, beef, chicken or shrimp. (I usually use chicken) cut in thin slices. 3 c. celery, sliced diagonally 2 c. onions, sliced lengthwise ¾ c. mushrooms, fresh or canned (drain) 3 c. fresh bean sprouts Combine in a small bowl and set aside: 1 T. fresh ginger, chopped OR ¼ tsp powdered ginger 1 tsp sugar 3 T. cornstarch 5 T. soy sauce ¾ c. soup stock or reconstituted bouillon Heat in a large skillet: 1 T. oil. Add meat and stir-fry just until done. Remove from heat. In another skillet, stir-fry in 1 T. oil each vegetable just until slightly cooked. Add each vegetable to meat skillet after stir-frying. Just before serving, reheat meat mixture and add sauce. Cook just until sauce thickens and clears. Serve hot with rice and enjoy! Photo credits: www.angsarap.net/All Creative Commons (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back Building a Pollinator Garden Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” This may or may not be a true Albert Einstein quote but the concept is valid. We need bees and all pollinators. Approximately 75% of the world’s flowering plants require a pollinator to reproduce. Pollinators help produce one-third of our food. It’s hard to imagine a diet without many fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Yet, pollinators are at serious risk. You can learn more about this risk at the Bee Lab at the University of Minnesota . But the purpose of this article to focus attention not on the risk, but on what we can do to help. Here are some suggestions. 1. Rethink your lawn! Perfectly manicured grass does nothing for pollinators. Maybe it’s time to let some dandelions and clovers grow in that back corner of your property. These two wildflowers (not necessarily weeds) are prime food sources for pollinators during the late spring and early summer. Stagger mowing so that some of the flowers are in bloom at all times. Take steps to protect the pollinator habitat that exists on your property, especially if this area is out of the way. This could be a bare patch of soil, a dead tree, a rock or brush pile where native pollinators build nests. This is the perfect time to cut down on the amount of grass you have and build a pollinator garden. 2. Design a pollinator garden! First of all, it helps to have sun. The vast majority of pollinator plants are sun-loving. But don’t despair if you have a shady yard; there are shade plants that attract pollinators. A source of water should be available. An old bird bath filled with pebbles and water makes an ideal source of water. A mud bath will attract butterflies as well as bees. Make sure there is a safe distance from any area where you use chemicals. Better yet, avoid chemicals altogether. Although budget limitations might demand that you start small, allow room for expansion. In the world of pollinators, bigger is better. 3. Go native! Avoid highly hybridized plants that are bred to be seedless and thus produce very little pollen and scent. It’s been estimated that native plants are four times more attractive to pollinators than hybrids. Emphasize diversity, not only in variety but also in size, especially plant height. Your goal should be a minimum of 10 different plants; more is better. When you plant, do so in clumps at least 3 feet in diameter. Focus on bright colors. For bees, it’s white, yellow, blue, violet, and purple. Attract hummingbirds with red and orange colors. If you include all these colors, you will attract butterflies also. The shape of the flower is important. Do not include “double” flowers as the pollinators cannot reach the nectar. Single flowers are best. Flowers that provide a natural platform give pollinators a place to land. Flowers that resemble a bull’s-eye provide a nectar guide. This is a region near the center of each petal not seen by humans but visible to the pollinator. Some flowers should have a tubular shape to attract hummingbirds. It is very important to provide nectar and pollen all season-long. Include flowers that bloom continually or stagger bloom times to cover the entire growing season. An excellent source of information regarding plants for bees can be found at the “Bee Squad” at the University of Minnesota. 4. Provide nesting sites! The fourth suggestion is to provide nesting space that provides morning and mid-day sun. Ideally, this should be within three hundred feet of the food sources. Keep in mind that approximately 70% of all native bees are ground-nesters. So, an area of bare soil is mandatory. These bees seldom nest in rich, compact soils so you might have to work some sandy or loamy matter into the soil. The tunnel-nesting bees, approximately 30% of our native species, need old tree stumps, logs, or piles of twigs and branches. Rock piles can also provide nesting areas. Allow this area to remain untouched, especially during the fall and winter months to allow the eggs and larvae to develop. There are man-made nesting solutions. You can find plans on the internet for wooden nesting boxes, stem bundles, butterfly boxes, etc. There are even plans for bumblebee nests. Consider a honeybee hive and learn about their fascinating community lifestyle. 5. Go organic! Finally, we can safeguard beneficial pollinators by going natural or organic. Avoid the use of chemicals, including fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, insecticides or fungicides. Your pollinator garden is a good place to let the garden go wild. If you must use chemicals, please do so in small, limited quantities and at times when the pollinators are resting, as in the late evening. Remember, while you are killing one pest or weed, you are likely killing beneficial pollinators as well. Following these suggestions will not only add beauty to your yard but will help restore the pollinators we need. Our future depends on these pollinators; without them our food source will dwindle Photo credits: Cheryl Forrest (1, 2)

< Back Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest by Suzanne Simard A family's dog fall into an outhouse on a camping opened up a new world to a young girl - fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. The young girl grew up to become a forest ecologist and educator. Suzanne Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener “This is not a book about how we can save the trees. This is a book about how trees might save us.” A family's dog falls into the outhouse on a camping trip in a Canadian forest. Uncles, aunts, grandparents, and parents all begin to dig out the poor creature, clearing away leaves from the forest floor, ripping up several feet of tree roots, and overturning several feet of earth. What a young girl sees, though, is not just the tree roots or the dirt itself, but a whole world under the ground: fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. That young girl grew up to become the forest ecologist and educator Suzanne Simard, a woman whose academic research would lead her back to the world beneath our feet. She began studying the fungal networks of mycelia and the ways that trees communicate with one another through root systems, and discovered that the oldest and most established trees—what she calls mother trees—direct the sharing of resources amongst all the flora of the forest. Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Her work appeals to gardeners, naturalists, and scientists alike. For more, her 2016 TED Talk educates on mycelia and mother tree communication, culminating in her advice for all to get out into local forests, to save old growth forests, for loggers to save the mother trees when logging occurs, and for logging companies to regenerate our forests wisely after logging. Simard’s book Finding the Mother Tree goes further still. This is not a dry or stuffy read, but an adventure story. Simard shares her fascinating field research in clear prose, telling stories about her sometimes-eccentric Canadian family of loggers and campers. Readers end with a deeper knowledge of how the natural world works and deeper appreciation for our human responsibility in protecting it. SOURCES : https://mothertreeproject.org https://suzannesimard.com Simard, Suzanne. Finding The Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest . New York, NY: Knopf Publishing, 2021. “How Trees Talk To Each Other,” TED. 2016 https://www.ted.com/talks/suzanne_simard_how_trees_talk_to_each_other ? language=en Photo credit: book jacket

< Back How to Pick the Best Perennials for Your Garden Karna Berg, Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Master Gardener May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. This article will help you choose the best perennials for your garden. May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. And while we can achieve season-long color by planting annuals every year, there is much to be gained by planting perennials that will return year after year. Filling your garden with perennials is more economical than planting annuals every year, perennials – especially native perennials – are beneficial to our environment, and with some planning, perennials will provide a colorful display all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. Zone Awareness A beautiful plant meant for Arizona or Washington will not like it here in Minnesota. Perennials that are likely to make it through our Minnesota winters need to be identified as Zone 3 or 4. We are all tempted by a Zone 5 plant now and then, and some of them will make it in a sheltered spot or with some babying, but the risk is that just when that plant gets to its mature size, a nasty winter it doesn’t like comes along and it’s a goner. Light Matters Then there is the issue of light. If you put a shade loving plant in a sunny spot, it may make it but will require more watering and could disappoint you with burned leaves and wilting flowers. If you put a sun loving plant in a shady spot, it will not be happy. It may live a few years but never look like the picture on the tag that made you bring it home. So, consider the amount of sun in the spot in your garden calling for a new plant. If the tag says full sun, that spot should get 6 - 8 hours of direct sun every day. If the tag says part sun or shade, the spot should get 3 - 6 hours of direct light. Any plant that will make it in less than 3 hours of direct sun a day should be marked for full shade. Soil Hospitality Most plants will do well in “loamy” (equal parts sand, silt and clay) soil but most of us in Dakota County will not have such hospitable soil. If you have a lot of clay in your garden, know that it will hold water for extended periods of time. If you put a plant there that loves to have its feet dry out between watering, it may not do well. The opposite is also true, some plants like a lot of water and wet feet. They would probably do better in that clay. As for sandy soil, it will drain quickly, so those water loving plants will not be happy. Get to know your soil and learn which plants are likely to prosper in it. It is also important to know if your soil has the nutrients necessary for plant health. You can get your soil tested at the University of Minnesota and take steps to improve your soil test, if necessary. Bloom Time Most perennials will bloom for 2 – 4 weeks in a season. If you want to have plants blooming in your garden all season, pay attention to what time period a plant will bloom. You don’t want all the perennials in your garden to bloom in June or July. With a little research, you can plant a variety of perennials that will bloom at different times throughout the season and give you the color show that you desire. But don’t discount characteristics of plants other than blooms that can provide beauty and interest. Many plants have a beautiful structure or interesting leaves or a different leaf color that can provide interest even when the plant is not blooming. Resources to Choose the Best Plants for Your Garden Fortunately, there are easy-to-use resources to help you select the best perennials for your garden site. Try this University of Minnesota Extension site for plants that do well in a variety of conditions. And, check out these award-winning Minnesota-friendly perennials . For a good reference book on Minnesota plants, try - Perennials for Minnesota and Wisconsin , by Don Engebretson and Don Williamson, published by Lone Pine Publishing USA. We all experiment at times, trying a plant in a spot that’s iffy. Sometimes they make it sometimes they don’t. That’s part of the fun of gardening. But for a sure thing, it pays to pay attention to the rules! While nothing will make a plant fool proof, at least it then has a better chance of thriving. Photo credits: Karna Berg (all)

< Back Junior Fall Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The blustery days of fall yield a kaleidoscope of leaves across our Minnesota yards and parks. Have your children ever wondered why these leaves transform to new colors in the fall? Help your child become a Junior Fall Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of why leaves change colors in the fall. Calling all Junior Fall Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are for why leaves convert from the summer color of green to red, orange, yellow, or brown shades as they fall to the ground. Once the clues are known, pull on your coziest sweatshirt and head outside to observe the evidence of fall leaves’ transformation, revealed in trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your observation skills, you can solve the mystery of why leaves are now changed to a new hue. CLUES Have you ever noticed how the leaves on the trees and bushes seem to suddenly turn from green to deep reds, yellows and oranges seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? Most of the year, the special chemical inside of leaves, called chlorophyll, gives leaves their green tint. The chlorophyll helps leaves absorb energy from sunlight during a process called photosynthesis , which converts the energy into sugar to feed the trees or plants. As the seasons change from summer to fall, the air temperatures drop and the days get shorter. Look for these clues for when leaves will begin to change color: Air temperatures . The Minnesota average temperatures on September 1 are 77 degrees daytime, 59 degrees nighttime. By November 1, the temperatures have decreased to an average of 50 degrees daytime, 35 degrees nighttime. Daylight . From the start of school in early September until now in October, you probably have noticed less daylight each day as you hop on your school bus in the morning until you are playing at the park at the end of the day. Daylight on average decreases by one hour and 15 minutes from August 1 through October 15. As the trees and plants get less sunlight, the chlorophyll in the leaves breaks down. With less chlorophyll, yellow and orange color pigments replace the green color of summer. Sometimes darker red leaves appear as the sugar produced in the leaves stays in the leaves (instead of feeding the tree), because the tree has stopped its growth for the year. EVIDENCE Venture outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of fall to predict when the leaves will be changing colors: the cooler air at your soccer game requiring a need for your favorite sweater and the sun setting earlier over the horizon of the local lake. What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged the leaves to start transforming? Trees . Trees and bushes are dropping an array of leaves with bright reds, yellows, oranges and browns. Burning bush (or Euonymus alatus), along with oaks and maple trees create intense red leaves. River birch and yellow poplar trees have showy yellow displays in the fall. Creatures. The arrival of fall invites the creatures in your yard, or local park, to either migrate to the warmer south, or prepare to hunker down for the Minnesota winters by making nests or dens. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, form flocks and fly south. Look up to the autumn sky as the migrating birds fly in triangular formation to head to warmer locations. Butterflies, like the monarch, partake in a long journey to winter in warm Mexico. You may notice that the butterflies are no longer to be found in the garden. Other animals, insects and birds remain in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or under the brush of the colorful fallen leaves and nearby evergreens. Look closely, squirrels are collecting seeds and acorns to save up for their winter meals. SOLVE Want to prove that the fall leaves have been changed due to the cooler air and shorter days? Bundle in a warm jacket and take a hike around your yard and neighborhood with your family or friends. Make sure to get outside during daylight as the sun sets earlier so you can accumulate the evidence of the leaves changing colors. Collect as many leaves as possible or help rake your yard. Notice all the beautiful colors! Have a contest : 1. Who gathered the most leaves? 2. Who picked up the most red/yellow/orange/brown leaves? Celebrate the results by making a leaf pile and jumping in it together! Activity : Find your favorite leaf from your collection. With the help of an adult, cut two equally measured squares of wax paper (about 1” larger than your chosen leaf). Insert the leaf between the two wax papers. With an iron on the lowest setting and a cloth over and underneath the wax papers, briefly hold the iron on the top cloth until the wax papers melt together. What a brilliant fall keepsake you have created! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects Read: Goodbye Summer, Hello Autumn by Kenard Pak ISBN: 9781627794152 (Dakota County Library) or buy at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Goodbye-Summer-Hello-Autumn-Kenard/dp/1627794158 . A children’s book describing the clues and evidence discussed above for fall leaves. References https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/science-behind-fall-colors#:~:text=Our%20research%20showed%20that%20the,develop%20the%20pigments%20each%20fall. https://www.si.edu/stories/why-do-leaves-change-color-fall https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/historical/annual.html https://journeynorth.org/projects Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1,2,3), Book Jacket (4)

< Back American Beech (Fagus grandifolia): An All American! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Think of the majestic forests of the early Midwest and you think of glorious beech trees. They and their cousins, the oaks and chestnuts are the noble components of a climax mesic forest. This magnificent tree has a unique trunk and puts on a beautiful show of color in the fall. But there are some things you need to know to grow this tree successfully. Read this article to learn more. Think of the majestic forests of the early Midwest and you think of glorious beech trees. They and their cousins, the oaks and chestnuts are the noble components of a climax mesic forest. In other words, this is what you see in mature, moist old forests that haven’t been ravaged by developers or loggers. Thus, they aren’t that prevalent in the wild. Indeed, when the Midwest was initially settled by Europeans, farmers were quick to notice that beech grew on the best farm soil. You’ll find American Beech mostly in the Eastern Midwest and East coast but they will grow in Zone 4. Southern and east Central Minnesota can host these venerable trees. The Minnesota Landscape Arboretum has some wonderful specimens. a mature American beech Planting sites should be selected with caution. The tree is intolerant of dry conditions. So, a moist, well-drained soil is helpful. Also, when planting west of its native range, a protected site is desirable. As the beech grows, the trunk becomes a smooth, luscious bluish grey. In the fall, American beech puts on quite a show of rich golden to orange-brown foliage. The leaves are quite delicately thin and arranged horizontally to maximize light capture. The American beech is an outstanding shade tree which will reach 60 to 100 feet at maturity. Intense shade is found beneath its canopy, so plan on planting shade-loving plants there. Even fescue grass will be shaded out. spring leaves Unfortunately, the American beech is susceptible to fungal infection. A combination of fungi can cause cankers and ultimately kill the tree. The U.S. Forest Service in cooperation with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources has been working on a disease resistant cultivar . Once established, however the American beech is a magnificent addition to a larger lawn or park Photo Credits: Famartin, Wikipedia (1), Marylandbiodiversity.com (2), Dcrjsr, Wikipedia (3)

< Back Propagating House Plants Gail Baxter and Marie Stolte, Master Gardeners Winter blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. January blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. Each plant species has its own preferred way to be propagated. Some prefer division (see list below) where a single plant is separated into two or more. Other plants start easily from cuttings (think philodendrons; stem pieces of 6” or so root easily in a glass of water). Some cuttings, like jade plant, can be started in seedless potting medium instead of water. And then, there are the cuttings that can be propagated from a single leaf, or even part of a leaf. Propagate from cuttings: Jade plant, aloe, hoya, Christmas cactus, snake plant, croton, Philodendron, Rex begonias, dragon wing begonias, kalanchoe, English ivy, dracaena, hen and chicks, pothos, African violet Propagate by division: Anthurium, peace lily, snake plant, pilea, dracaena, ZZ plant, spider plant (or plant the baby offsets) Fun with Rex Begonias By January, I am usually ready to propagate more Rex begonias . They come in many colors, and every year, I seem to buy a new variety to fill my summer containers. I bring them indoors in the fall and overwinter them as houseplants. To propagate them, I gather my materials: soil-less seed starting mix (or, you can use a 50-50 mix of perlite and vermiculite), cutting board, pruning shears and a razor blade (both sterilized with rubbing alcohol or bleach water), pins (I used quilter’s pins and T-pins), and a take-out container with a lid (punch several holes in the bottom). Step 1: Fill the nursery tray with the seed starting mix. Wet it well; when you gather a handful of soil and squeeze it, the soil should hold together but not be dripping. Step 2: Cut a healthy leaf with your pruners. Middle aged leaves work well, rather than very old or very young leaves. Cut off the stem so all that is left is the leaf. Step 3: Turn the leaf over so you can see the veins. Make a perpendicular cut across each of the largest veins with the razor blade. Step 4: With the leaf vein cuts facing down, press the leaf onto the soil and pin to hold the cuts firmly against the soil. Cover the container with the clear plastic lid, and put on a windowsill that receives indirect light—not direct sunlight, which can bake the tiny plants that emerge. Check the soil every few days and water if it starts to dry out. Within 6 to 8 weeks, baby leaves should appear near the site of each vein cut. Remove the plastic lid at this point. When the leaves are about a half-inch across, carefully separate the baby plants from each other and pot them individually in 3-inch pots. Look up your plant, and get propagating! Each plant type will have specific instructions for the type of soil to use for propagation, lighting, and other requirements. Look to the U of M Extension library or other trusted source for your specific plant. For instance, if you have cacti and Succulents or holiday cacti to propagate, the University offers tips on the environment these plants need to thrive. Propagating can become your creative outlet, too. Learn more about how to display your cuttings of 22 indoor plants and 17 more plants you can propagate from Planteria on YouTube. Propagating plants is fun to do. You can keep and raise the new plants, or share them with others so they can enjoy a little green, too. And remember: your houseplants could even become the next stars in your summer planters. Photo credits: Marie Stolte (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Let’s Learn About Evergreens! Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. It would be quite the challenge to be able to identify all 100+ different species of pine, spruce, and fir trees. For now, let’s look at the big categories and the trees native to Minnesota that we see most often. Let’s ask a series of questions to figure out which evergreen we’re looking at. Q: SINGLE NEEDLES OR BUNDLES? How are needles attached to the branch—in small bundles of 2-5 needles or as single needles? A: BUNDLES. We have a pine tree! There are a few kinds we see a lot of in Minnesota. WHITE PINES have 5 needles in a bundle and are long (3-5”). RED PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are long (4-6”). JACK PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are short (1-1.5”). A: SINGLES. We have either a spruce or a fir tree. Let’s ask another question. Q: FLAT OR SQUARE? Pluck off a needle and roll it between your fingers. Is it hard to roll because it’s flat, or do you feel slight ridges as it rolls in your fingers because it’s square? A: FLAT. We have a fir tree. Balsam firs are common Minnesota firs. You might remember this by thinking of Fs: firs are flat and friendly (no sharp tips on the needles). A: SQUARE. We have a spruce tree. There are a variety of spruces, but here are three. WHITE SPRUCES have hairless branches. BLACK SPRUCES have tiny red hairs between needles on their branches. BLUE SPRUCES have needles with a slight blue tinge to the color. DO: Nature Walk and Quiz Go for a nature walk and see how many different kinds of evergreens you encounter. Bring back samples of the different needles or needle bundles that you find. Once you know the trees that each needle comes from, quiz another family member or a friend by laying out all your needles on a table. Can they guess correctly? Source: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back Healthy Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Believe it or not, fall is the best time to repair your existing lawn. And, with climate weather changes, it is also a good time to consider what type of lawn you want to have in the future. Sometimes it can be perplexing as to where to begin. If you are interested in lawn care, please read this article. With climate change, doing the same lawn care, may not yield the same results. The first step is to evaluate your existing yard. Evaluate your existing yard status. What type of soil do you have? Through the U of MN Extension, you can get a soil text. See this website for details. https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden Are some areas of your lawn difficult to mow because they are on a slope? Should you consider replacing this part of the lawn into a pollinator garden with some shrubs and/or pollinator flowers or create a no-mow bee lawn? What type of sun do you have on the various areas of your lawn? There are grass seed mixes for Shade, Part-Sun, and Sunny areas. Not all grass seed works for every section of your yard. Many nurseries have various seed mixes available for sale. Prior to spending money on seed, take stock as to what type of sun/shade is in each area and measure the dimensions so you know how much seed to buy. If you are renovating areas of your yard, question why the existing grass did not thrive? Shady areas especially dense shade is hard to maintain grass. Fine fescue grasses work best in shady areas, but if it is really dense, even that may not grow thick. Another option is to create a pathway and plant some native shade plants instead of having a lawn. You can even consider sedges. What areas of your yard get walked on a lot or have damage from pets? The type of grass mix you put down can make a difference for those areas. Critters such as voles and moles can be a lawn culprit. For more info about voles/moles, go to this link. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage Do you have areas of your yard that get excessive salt from the road or driveway? You may need to prep the soil differently in those areas prior to planting or even consider a rain garden bed in those areas. How much work are you interested in doing to maintain your yard? Watering and mowing are a lot of resources. Should you consider a fine fescue grass mix that uses less water and doesn’t need to be mowed as often or potentially a bee lawn? There are lots of things to consider before starting on your lawn renovation. Sometimes it is easier if you take just a section of your yard at a time. It does not need to be done in one season. The U of MN Extension has a Lawn Care Calendar that focuses on what months are best to plant seeds, when to fertilize, and when to lay down seed. See this link for the calendar. As stated early, late August to Early September is the best time to put down new grass seed if you are starting a new area specially. Spring is the second-best time. But if you are wanting to thicken or repair your lawn, putting down seed in late October to November (once it is too cold for grass to germinate) is great for dormant seeding. Preparing the soil for lawn repair. Does your grass have an excessive amount of dead grass called thatch that is killing the grass? If so, it might need to be dethatched before applying new seed. Grass seed has to have contact with the dirt to be successful in germination. Dethatching machines can be rented for large areas. Hand raking works for small repairs. If you have clay soil, sometimes, you need to consider aerating your lawn on a periodic basis (annually or every few years). This can be done by renting a machine that will remove soil plugs from your lawn. Once the lawn has been prepped, laying down seed is the next step. Seeding in late August to September requires consistent watering when the soil is dry (several times a day). Dormant seeding in November does not require watering. The seed will germinate in early Spring. Purchasing sod is another option for new lawns especially but is more expensive and still requires consistent watering in the early stages. There are many things to consider with lawn care maintenance and repair. This website has additional information if you are interested in learning more. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension 1,2,3,4