< Back Manure – A Cautionary Tale Manure can benefit your garden in many ways but it also has negative consequences if used improperly. Read this article to learn how to use manure to reap its benefits without hurting your soil or plants. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener Gardening can take a toil on soil, as plants pull vital nutrients for growth and production of flowers, vegetables, and fruit. Another important factor to growing plants is the soil structure. You can address both soil structure and nutrient-deficiencies needed to maintain or even increase the ability to grow vigorous plants by adding manure. Manure is the waste products of animals and has many benefits. However, there are a number of cautions you need to be aware of before just dumping manure on your garden. Manure increases soil organic matter, which can help improve soil structure. Manure also helps improve sandy soil’s ability to hold water and drainage in clay soil. It slowly releases nutrients into the soil and can promote beneficial soil organisms’ growth ( Compost and soil organic matter: the more, the merrier? , Penn State Extension ). Acceptable types of manure for use in vegetable gardens include cow, horse, sheep, goat, llama, rabbit, and chicken/poultry. There are some additional precautions to take if you are going to use chicken/poultry manure that will be discussed later in this article. ( Using chicken manure, UMN-Extension ). Rabbit manure is a great source of manure, 'bunny honey' . Pig, dog, cat, and human waste should NEVER be used in gardens as they are more likely to contain parasites. Use of manure in gardens does require precautions, especially where and when you use fresh or ‘raw’ manure. The biggest risk is that fresh manure may include bacteria and other pathogens that can cause diseases in humans such as e.Coli, Salmonella, Campylobacter bacteria, and others. You can’t determine if an animal may be carrying a pathogen by looking at them or their waste. For this reason, it is critical to not use fresh manure around vegetables as these pathogens can be taken up into vegetable plant tissue through the soil and water. Rabbit manure is the exception because of its pelletized form and low risk of pathogens. If fresh manure is applied to areas where food is grown, nothing should be planted in that location for at least four (4) months for any food product whose edible portion has direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles. If the food product does not have direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles, then the timeframe is 90 days. ( USDA Organic Tipsheet: Manure in Organic Production Systems ). That means that you should not apply manure in the spring before planting unless you are only going to be planting late summer crops for fall harvest. ( Safely Using Manure, UW-Extension, Using Manure in the Home Garden, UW-Extension ). Early fall may be the best time for manure application. As noted above rabbit manure is the exception. It may be used ‘fresh’ and has many benefits over other types of manure including having four times the nutrients of horse and cow manure and twice the amount of chicken manure. Well composted chicken litter The best manure to use has been composted, which when done properly, can kill any harmful pathogens, stabilize the nutrients, and lower salts that are present. Composting manure, along with any bedding material or other substances, involves regular turning, aeration, and making sure the compost reaches specific temperatures for specific amounts of time. According to the USDA Organic Tipsheet , depending on how the composting is occurring, the manure must reach Temperatures between 131° F and 170° F and must be sustained for three days using an in-vessel or static aerated pile system. Temperatures between 131° F and 170° F and must be sustained for 15 days using a windrow composting system, during which period the materials must be turned a minimum of five times, and this period must be followed by an adequate curing period. Composting raw manure into manure that is safe to use may be difficult, but not impossible, to achieve by a home gardener. Achieving and maintaining the high temperatures is challenging in a home environment and turning and aerating the pile is a considerable commitment. Another consideration when using manure is you don’t know the specific amounts of nutrients and micronutrients you are adding. It varies by the type of animal waste and any additional materials such as bedding that might be mixed into it. This is important because adding the wrong level of nutrients may produce less desirable effects. For example, if manure was added around tomato plants, the nitrogen might promote growth of the plant which may decrease the energy the plant puts into producing the tomatoes. Purchasing fertilizer in some instances might be a better approach as you can select the amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium (N-P-K) you add to specific areas of your garden. Despite all these cautions, adding manure can be beneficial to the home garden by improving the soil structure, water holding capacity, and through the slow release of nutrients. With a little care, your plants will reap the benefits and grow and produce vigorously. References: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x-9vEKg0K5NLijaqmuC0t-SPJgj6NAQI/view https://blog-yard-garden-news.extension.umn.edu/2019/10/got-chickens-fall-is-good-time-to.html chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/ https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Manure%20in%20Organic%20Production%20Systems_FINAL.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/nutrient-management-specialty-crops/correct-too-much-compost-and-manure https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/bunny_honey_using_rabbit_manure_as_a_fertilizer https://extension.psu.edu/wise-use-of-manure-in-home-vegetable-gardens https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/safely-using-manure-garden/#:~:text=Many%20vegetable%20gardeners%20swear%20by,vegetables%20and%20cause%20human%20disease . https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/using-manure-in-the-home-garden/ Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Paper Poinsettias Here is a fun seasonal project for your Growing Sprout. Read on to find out how to make them and where poinsettias grow. It might surprise you! Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardeners Poinsettias are native to Mexico and Central America. The part we think of as the flower are actually a special leaf called a bract; the real flower is in the middle with the yellow part. The ASPCA lists it as poisonous to cats, but of course, ours won’t be! For the project you will need: 2 sheets of red paper 1 sheet of a darker or lighter red color 1 sheet of green paper A bit of yellow paper Scissors Glue Light weight cardboard such as a cereal box Pen Glitter (optional) First you will need to cut out two paper templates, one smaller than the other, and then cut out the cardboard templates. If your sprout is older, you can make the bracts fancier. Once you have the templates, your Sprout can trace them on the paper. They will need 8 red, and three green shapes of the larger bracts, and 8 shapes of the smaller contrasting color. Glue four of the larger bracts together, then layer four more at right angles to the first. Fold the smaller bracts in half lengthwise, don’t make the crease sharp. Older Sprouts can also fold the larger bracts. It’s a little harder to glue when you do this. They can experiment with having the folds be upside down relative to the smaller bracts. Glue in the same manner as the larger bracts. Add a little extra glue to hold the smaller bracts to the larger. Glue the three green bracts behind the large bracts, cut out and glue 3 small circles of the yellow paper to the center of the poinsettia and you’re done! Happy Holidays! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-11)

< Back How to Identify Minnesota Native Conifers Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The garden beds are tucked in under an abundant blanket of snow. The wardrobes of the deciduous trees are a distant memory after their yearly fashion show. But for some of us, one of the most beautiful sights this time of year, is the star of the season’s show: the coniferous tree. Most conifers stay green throughout the winter but they are not all the same. It’s February in Minnesota. The dead of winter as they say. The garden beds are tucked in under an abundant blanket of snow. The wardrobes of the deciduous trees are a distant memory after their yearly fashion show. Many having changed from vibrant spring green all the way to the glorious colors of autumn, finally turning brown and floating to the ground to nourish the soil, leaving the trees bare and waiting for the next phase of the cycle to begin again. Many gardeners are dreaming of their favorite plants that will spring back to life again when the warming sun melts away the chill of winter. But for some of us, one of the most beautiful sights this time of year, is the star of the season’s show: the coniferous tree. Though not synonymous with the word evergreen, most conifers in Minnesota do remain green throughout the changing seasons, providing a welcome contrast of color against the white and gray landscape. Note, there are many tropical plants in warmer climates that are evergreens in that they stay green all year, but they are not all conifers. This article will help you identify the lovely conifers native to Minnesota. First of all, it is important to note the difference between conifers and deciduous trees. All trees have leaves, but the leaves of conifers are needles. The other obvious difference is that all conifers have cones to hold their seeds, unlike the various seed covers deciduous trees possess. Many people incorrectly call all cones pinecones, but not all conifers are pine trees. All deciduous trees drop their leaves in winter. It may seem surprising, but conifers lose their needles too. For most conifers, however, it happens over a very long period of time. Rather than drop all of their needles at once like deciduous trees lose their leaves, it may take many years for a conifer to gradually drop and replace all of its needles. There is an exception though, and that is the Tamarack , also known as the eastern or American larch . Each fall, the Tamarack turns a dull yellow in the fall and loses all of its needles just like a deciduous tree loses its leaves. Its cones release tiny winged seeds from its cones which often remain on the tree for years. Tamarack Besides the Tamarack, there are nine other conifers native to Minnesota. They are all true evergreens, slowly changing out their needles over a number of years. Two of the native conifers are cedar trees. One is the eastern red cedar, which is actually a juniper, and the other is the northern white cedar. 1. Eastern red cedar (actually a juniper): The needles on the red cedar are scale-like with four rows lining up along the stem making it appear almost square. Its ¼ inch blue berry-like cone holds one or two seeds that are a bird favorite. Eastern red cedar 2. Northern white cedar : The scale-like needles on the white cedar are arranged in such a way that they appear to form small flat branches. The cones are ½ inch oblong yellowish-brown that grow singly or in clusters at the ends of the branches. Northern white cedar 3. Balsam fir : It is very popular as a holiday tree with its dark green, ½ -1 inch long flat, rounded-tip needles. Its cones are about 3-4 inches long that stand upright on the branches. When it ripens, the seeds fall along with the scales protecting them. What’s left, is the empty inner core of the cone, standing straight up like a spike. Balsam fir 4. Hemlock : The shade-loving hemlock has needles that are about 1/3-2/3 inches long. They are flat and blunt. The cones are ½-3/4 inches long. They hang from the ends of twigs. The hemlock is just barely native to Minnesota, reaching the state up north just south of Lake Superior. Hemlock 5. White Pine : The white pine has 2 ½ - 5 inch long needles that are bluish-green on one side and white-ish on the other side. They grow in bundles of five and they are incredibly soft. The cones are 4-8 inches long. White pine 6. Jack Pine: The jack pine needles are ¾ to 1 ½ inches long that are flat and stubby and grow in bundles of two. The cones are 1 ½ - 2 inches long. They are curved, brown-ish when ripe, and its not uncommon to find ripe seeds on the tree for many years. Jack pine 7. Red Pine (also known as the Norway Pine – the state tree of Minnesota): The 4 - 6 inch long needles of the red pine also grow in clusters of two. If you bend a needle, it makes a clean break. The interesting cones are about 2 inches long and light brown. While they mature and drop their seeds in early fall, the cones remain on the tree until the following spring. Red pine The last two native conifers are the black spruce and the white spruce. Spruce needles are unique in that they are square shaped. You can pull off a singularly grown needle and roll it in your fingers due to its square shape. The needles of the white spruce have an unpleasant odor when crushed. 8. Black Spruce : The cones of the black spruce are ½ - 1 ½ inches long and they start out dark purple and change to brown when they are ripe. Black spruce 9. White Spruce : The cones of the white spruce are about 2 inches long with a slender appearance. White spruce While you may be familiar with names like Fraser Fir, Doulgas Fir, Scotch Pine, and Colorado Blue Spruce, these popular trees commonly used over the holidays, are not actually native to Minnesota and so were not featured in this article. In closing, however, here is a summary to at least help you differentiate between fir, pine, and spruce trees: Fir : Needles are flat and soft. (Remember “friendly fir” - if you were to shake its hand compared to a pointy, stiff spruce.) If you were to pull off a needle, which grows singularly, it would leave a small circular scar on the stem. Pine : Needles group in clusters of two, three, or five depending on the type of tree. The clusters of needles are called fascicles. Most pine cones are woody in texture. Spruce : Spruce needles are sharply pointed, square, and you can roll them between your fingers. They are attached singularly to the stem on small woody structures that remain as projections if you pull a needle off the stem. Spruce cones are generally more flexible than pine cones. For more information, The University of Minnesota has put together this handy booklet: A Beginner’s Guide to MINNESOTA TREES. https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y References: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html (including all photos, except where noted) https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/pine_spruce_or_fir_getting_to_know_michigan_evergreen_trees https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/2005/nov/061401.htm Photo credits: Lisa Olson (1), Minnesota DNR (2 - 12))

< Back American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens): An American Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener American Bittersweet is a hardy native vine traditionally found on country roads and farms. It puts on a beautiful display of orange-hulled fruit in autumn. It has been a favorite material for welcoming door wreaths. Read this article about this beautiful and useful native Minnesota plant. A few years back, each fall we used to scan the shoulders of country roads for native bittersweet. It was an old custom of local farm folk to make wreathes of bittersweet to hang over their doors as a welcome. Apparently, this old folkway has caught on and wild bittersweet has become a rarity, at least around the Cities. Fortunately, this hardy native vine can still be purchased at local nurseries and you can “grow you own” fall decorations. Bittersweet is found in mesic woods, woodland edges and hedgerows throughout the Upper Midwest. Its great attraction is its display of orange-hulled, vermillion fruit which form in the late summer, creating a brilliant display in autumn after leaf-drop. Bittersweet is fairly easy to grow in well-drained soil. It isn’t too fussy about the clay soils we so often encounter here. Full sun to part shade is a must for vigorous growth. Although the vine can be slow growing for the first season or two it will eventually take off and be quite drought resistant. This is a plus given the dry summers we have recently been experiencing. You will want to place it on a fence or a trellis as it is a vigorous woody vine. Another approach is to plant it among established small trees in a woodland edge. This sets it up for a show in the late fall when the trees are bare. One caveat : Celastrus scandens is dioecious, meaning vines are either male or female. So, it takes “two to tango” to generate that wonderful orange-red fruit. Hopefully your nursery can help you to obtain the correct gender of vines. If you are growing bittersweet from seed or are purchasing seedlings, plant several of them in proximity to assure a male and female vine for fruiting. One other caveat : American bittersweet should not be confused with Oriental Roundleaf bittersweet ( Celastrus orbiculatus ). The latter is native to China but has proven to be highly invasive here in North America. In theory it should no longer be sold in commercial nurseries, but you never know. It is pretty easy to differentiate from American bittersweet in that the native plant’s fruit capsules are orange. Oriental bittersweet’s fruit capsules are yellow. American bittersweet’s fruits are on the terminal stem ends. Orientals are along the stems at the leaf axis. If you come across oriental bittersweet on your property, eliminate it! The MN Department of Agriculture has good information on the subject: ( https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants/pestmanagement/weedcontrol/noxiouslist/orientalbittersweet/bittersweetdiffs ). Photo credits: MN Department of Agriculture (all)

< Back What is Compost? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer Have you seen signs around that say “Compost?” Maybe you’ve put bags of compost on your gardens already. Maybe you even have your own compost at home! What is compost? Read on with your curious child to find out what goes into this helpful mix and how we can help plants grow (and keep organic matter out of our landfills!) I think of compost as a really nutritious casserole or lasagna for plants. Did you know that plants need good nutrition, just like people? First, let’s talk about organic matter . Things that once grew as plants - grass clippings, fallen leaves, banana peels, even paper towels - can break down and become food for new plants when we add them back into the soil. Microbes are tiny living organisms that help break down this future compost. The best way for us to set this up is to layer “green” organic waste and “brown” organic waste (like we layer yummy ingredients between noodles in a lasagna!) So let’s start there: Examples of “green” organic matter: raw fruit and vegetable peels, egg shells, grass clippings, plant trimmings, tea bags, and coffee grounds Examples of “brown” organic matter: straw, twigs, shredded newspaper, paper towels, brown leaves, sawdust When the helpful bacteria, tiny microbes, worms and bugs start eating and mixing our green and brown layers, the layers start to break down and even make energy. The goal is for the pile to get warm enough to “cook” out the kinds of germs that get stinky or make us sick. It’s just like we cook some of our foods to make them safe and tasty for us to eat. People can help things along by turning over the mix - this helps it break down evenly and adds oxygen and moisture to encourage the process. If the weather gets really dry, spray down the pile with water now and again between rain showers. It can take some patience, but eventually you will have fresh compost ready to mix into your planting soil! Where does this happen? Sometimes community compost sites make BIG batches of compost after they collect organic waste from many places. This could be from compost bins near the trash and recycling cans like these - see the one that says “COMPOST?” Or, Dakota County (as well as other counties) has a program where residents can bring their food waste in special biodegradable bags to a public site like this one at the Holland Lake parking lot of Lebanon Hills Regional Park. See this website for more information on Dakota County’s Organics Drop Off program https://www.co.dakota.mn.us/Environment/Residential/Organics/Pages/organics-drop-off.aspx Some people make compost right at home! You can buy a compost bin made just for this purpose through many vendors online or through Dakota County https://recycleminnesota.org/compost-bins-rain-barrels/ . Or you can make your own! Here are some helpful websites with instructions for making a home compost bin (with an adult!): https://thecompostadores.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/photographic-steps-to-build-a-bin.pdf https://www.treehugger.com/diy-compost-bins-you-can-build-one-day-video-4858394 You can even take a class with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum for a compost bin building demonstration here: https://www.arboretum.umn.edu/getdirtyactivities.aspx Here’s a 3-part system of compost at the Arboretum’s Children’s Garden: The older organic materials get moved “next door” to make room for new green and brown layers in the first section. If you haven’t checked out the Green Play Yard and learning garden next to the Marion Andrus Learning Center there yet, I truly recommend it - it’s fantastic! So kids, let’s review - what’s compost? Organic matter made from plants that helps plants grow! It adds nutrients and texture to the soil so the plants can get oxygen and water through their roots. Compost that’s ready for this job should not have a stinky or rotten smell. How can kids help to make compost? Help collect food waste like peels, coffee grounds, tea bags, greens and egg shells that won’t get eaten into a container until it is full and ready to take to your home or community compost site. Toddlers and older can carry a closed pail or small bag of organics and participate in the cycle of their food. Gather black and white newspapers, brown cardboard and paper towels (shredded to help them break down faster), sticks, and leaves for the brown layer at home. Use a large garden fork or shovel to stir up your compost pile now and again, or use the handle on some bins to turn the pile around. It’s not an exact science, so put those growing muscles to work mixing things up! Keep an eye out for helpful signs at parks and businesses that show you where to put compostable items and keep them out of the landfill. For a great factsheet about home composting, see this link from the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency https://www.pca.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/w-hhw1-21.pdf Book Time! Read on at Dakota County Libraries for more kid-friendly information about COMPOSTING: Compost Stew: An A to Z Recipe for the Earth by Mary McKenna Siddals and Ashley Wolff, recommended for Ages 2-6 Garbage Helps our Garden Grow: A Compost Story by Linda Glaser, recommended for Ages 6 & up Photo Credit: Minnesota Pollution Control Agency Website (2), Sarah Heidtke (1,3,4,5,6) , Compost Stew: An A to Z Recipe for the Earth by Mary McKenna Siddals and Ashley Wolff (7) & Garbage Helps our Garden Grow: A Compost Story by Linda Glaser (8)

< Back Companion Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener It’s April and we are starting or continuing to plan our gardens for the new season. Most of us consider the amount of sunlight we need, flower size and color and, probably, our favorite plants. But many of us do not take into account how various plants interact with each other - “companion planting.” Companion planting considers how to enhance the garden or impact plants by growing them in close proximity to each other. Companion planting has the potential to enhance your garden, reduce the need for pesticides, promote stronger plants and take maximum advantage of the space available. Read this article to learn more about why and how to use companion planting in your garden. As plans are being prepared for our gardens, most of us think about the layout, considering each plant type separately. The planning generally looks at the amount of space needed and the amount of sunlight required by the plant as decisions are made about where to position plants. However, many of us do not take into account how various plants interact with each other, a concept referred to as “companion planting.” Companion planting considers how to enhance the garden or impact plants by growing them in close proximity to each other. Companion planting has the potential to enhance your garden, reduce the need for pesticides, promote stronger plants and take maximum advantage of the space available. Companion planting is not a new concept. It is a tool used in organic gardening and has been used historically by indigenous people. Research has identified varying results regarding the benefits of specific companion plantings. There is only anecdotal evidence of the benefits of overall companion planting. But there are numerous reputable articles on how to incorporate the concept into our gardens. In this article I will identify six potential benefits of companion gardening, using a relatively broad definition of companion gardening. 1. Repelling Pests Consider planting plants that repel pests next to plants that the pests target. According to an article in the University of Arizona Agriculture and Life Sciences Cooperative Extension site: One of the most accepted wisdoms of companion planting is the use of repellant plants to keep bothersome insects away from their favorite vegetable plants. Insects locate their favorite plants through smell and many repellant plants work by masking the scent of their neighbor plants. That is why strong-smelling plants such as basil, onions, garlic, and marigolds are good reliant plants. [1] 2. Attracting Beneficial Insects Conversely, companion planting might be used to attract beneficial insects. The best example of this is the suggestion that a gardener plant flowers that will attract pollinators next to vegetable that will benefit from these insects. Companion planting can also be used to attract insects that will feed on destructive insects. For example one might grow plants, such as carrots, to attract lady bugs that will feed on aphids that might attack your plants. 3. Growing Sacrificial Plants A sacrificial crop is a plant that you add to your garden to attract pests away from the main crop you are growing. The reasoning is that garden pests have preferences for what they like to live on or eat. By planting rows of sacrificial plants near your preferred vegetables, the pests will be attracted to these plants and leave your “preferred plants” alone. 4. Enhancing the Taste of Edible Plants Many people believe that planting herbs such as basil, dill, oregano or marjoram next to tomatoes and peppers may enhance the sweetness of these vegetables . . . and they also add beauty to your garden. 5. Supporting the Growing Needs of Surrounding Plants The growing characteristics of one plant can be used to benefit surrounding plants. For example, plants that grow tall or are supported by trellises can provide shade to plants that prefer limited sunlight. Vining plants and plants with large leaves that cover the ground can reduce weed growth and help retain soil moisture. 6. Promoting Maximum Use of Garden Space In this example of companion planting, you’re considering how to enhance the production of your garden as a whole. By intercropping plants in spaces left when one crop is done producing you can increase the production from a limited space. Radishes mature quickly and do well in cooler weather so they can be planted in the spring. When they are harvested, plants that prefer warmer weather can be planted. And when those plants are done producing, another crop of radishes can be planted in late summer. This is a link to a chart developed by Todd Weinmann of North Dakota State University Agriculture Extension that provides an extensive list of plants that you might consider growing near each other and plants that have the potential to negatively impact the growth of certain plants and therefore should not be planted in close proximity. [1] The Best of Enemies: A Brief Guide to Companion Planting - Part 2, https://cals.arizona.edu/cochise/mg/best-enemies-brief-guide-companion-planting-part-2 Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), Linda Stein (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back American Beech (Fagus grandifolia): An All American! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Think of the majestic forests of the early Midwest and you think of glorious beech trees. They and their cousins, the oaks and chestnuts are the noble components of a climax mesic forest. This magnificent tree has a unique trunk and puts on a beautiful show of color in the fall. But there are some things you need to know to grow this tree successfully. Read this article to learn more. Think of the majestic forests of the early Midwest and you think of glorious beech trees. They and their cousins, the oaks and chestnuts are the noble components of a climax mesic forest. In other words, this is what you see in mature, moist old forests that haven’t been ravaged by developers or loggers. Thus, they aren’t that prevalent in the wild. Indeed, when the Midwest was initially settled by Europeans, farmers were quick to notice that beech grew on the best farm soil. You’ll find American Beech mostly in the Eastern Midwest and East coast but they will grow in Zone 4. Southern and east Central Minnesota can host these venerable trees. The Minnesota Landscape Arboretum has some wonderful specimens. a mature American beech Planting sites should be selected with caution. The tree is intolerant of dry conditions. So, a moist, well-drained soil is helpful. Also, when planting west of its native range, a protected site is desirable. As the beech grows, the trunk becomes a smooth, luscious bluish grey. In the fall, American beech puts on quite a show of rich golden to orange-brown foliage. The leaves are quite delicately thin and arranged horizontally to maximize light capture. The American beech is an outstanding shade tree which will reach 60 to 100 feet at maturity. Intense shade is found beneath its canopy, so plan on planting shade-loving plants there. Even fescue grass will be shaded out. spring leaves Unfortunately, the American beech is susceptible to fungal infection. A combination of fungi can cause cankers and ultimately kill the tree. The U.S. Forest Service in cooperation with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources has been working on a disease resistant cultivar . Once established, however the American beech is a magnificent addition to a larger lawn or park Photo Credits: Famartin, Wikipedia (1), Marylandbiodiversity.com (2), Dcrjsr, Wikipedia (3)

< Back Hydrangeas – An Essential Garden Classic Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The Hydrangea shrub is a classic garden staple because of its hardiness and beautiful blooms. Shopping for Hydrangea at your local garden store can be overwhelming because there are many different varieties of this lovely perennial shrub. This article describes the different varieties, their characteristics and care needs. Read on to learn more about which hydrangeas would work well in your yard. Hydrangea is a hardy and popular shrub that thrives in Minnesota’s climate. They provide beautiful flowers later in the season and large attractive leaves in a shape that provides excellent structure in your garden. When choosing hydrangea, it is important to note that they are not all the same. The different varieties have different characteristics and care needs. This article will discuss the features and needs of four different types of hydrangeas. Hydrangea paniculata have cone shaped flowers that change from light green to deep pink and then tan flower heads in the fall. The flower heads provide landscape interest during the winter and make beautiful indoor flower arrangements all winter. Paniculata ‘s flowers are not susceptible to frost damage because they bloom on new wood. Hydrangea paniculata can grow to 7 feet tall. Pruning should be delayed until late winter or early spring. The pruning cut or head cut, should be ¼” above the swollen bud. Click here for more information about pruning hydrangeas from the University of Minnesota Extension. Fertilize in spring and early summer with a general garden fertilizer. Favorite panicle hydrangeas are: Quick Fire (H paniculata ‘Bulk’) Limelight (H paniculata ‘limelight’) First additions, Berry White (H paniculata ‘Reuba’) Hydrangea macrophylla , “big leaf hydrangea” or “mophead hydrangea,” is a zone 5 plant that can do well in southern Minnesota. It typically grows 3 – 6 feet tall and wide and produces large clusters of long-blooming flowers either in lacecap or mophead form. Blooms are pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils and blue in highly acidic soils. Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old and new wood. Prune hydrangea macrophylla in early fall after they are done flowering with a diagonal cut ¼” above the bud. The Endless Summer ( H. macrophylla ‘Bailmer’ ) cultivar is an exception; this cultivar blooms on last year’s wood and new wood. This variety will bloom whether it is pruned or not. Prune in August after flowering. Fertilize three times a season with small amounts beginning in the early spring. Popular varieties are: Blushing Bride Bloom Struck Summer Crush Twist ‘n Shout Hydrangea aborescens or “smooth hydrangea” needs to grow several seasons before pruning. It has giant white flower heads that bloom in mid-summer. They turn green when dry. They typically grow 3 – 6 feet. Apply one application of fertilizer in late winter or early spring. When the shrub is established, prune it to the ground in the spring. Flower buds grow on this season’s growth or new wood. Examples of Hydrangea aborescens or smooth hydrangeas are: Annabelle (H. aborescens ‘Annabelle’) (a classic) Invincible mini mauvette (H. aborescens) Incrediball (H. aborescens ‘Abetwo’) (bred to have stronger stem strength) Hydrangea petolaris or climbing hydrangea is a tough wood vine that produces large clusters of white flowers. It likes full sun to part shade and acidic soil. This sturdy vine can grow 30-50 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide. Plant this vine on a sturdy trellis or fence where you want to have a dense long-living screen. Once established, this vine can be aggressive. Climbing hydrangea needs to no pruning. Only prune out the dead wood stems. Types of climbing hydrangea: Miranda Silver lining Flying Saucer Other facts to know about hydrangeas care: Sunlight: Most hydrangeas like morning sun and afternoon shade. Most will not bloom if planted in full shade. Fertilizer: General garden fertilizer is adequate for hydrangea. Water: Over or underwatering will result in fewer blooms. Test the soil with your finger and don’t water if the soil is wet. Soil Nutrients: A lush bush plant with no blooms is a sign of too much nitrogen. Check to see if lawn fertilizer is getting into the soil. Lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen. Pruning: Over pruning and pruning in the spring can cause a hydrangea to skip blooming. Pruning in late spring can cut off too many buds. Weather: Late freezes can damage new buds and be the reason for no blooms. Hydrangea is a beautiful shrub along a foundation or as an anchor for a perennial bed. Be sure to read the height information that accompanies your shrub. Individual Hydrangeas have different leaf structure, bloom size, and colors. This shrub is easy to grow. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-4) Resources : University of Minnesota, extension.umn.edu/hydrangea Monrovia, Monrovia.com Missouri Botanical Garden.org https://www.thespruce.com/climbing-hydrangea-vines-2132893

< Back Mycelium Running: How Mushrooms Can Help Save the World Mushrooms – not just for eating anymore. Ren Henry reviews Paul Stamets’ fascinating book about the value that mushrooms bring to the environment. It turns out that mushrooms can help the landscape in ways you probably have never thought about. Paul Stamets Reviewed by Ren Henry What do we use mushrooms for? Mostly we eat them, and that’s about it. Have you ever stopped to think about the other uses for mushrooms? In Paul Stamets’ 2005 book, Mycelium Running: How Mushrooms Can Help Save the World , the celebrated mycologist explores the various ways mushrooms can be used in the landscape to help remediate various ecological settings. This is what he terms “mycorestoration”. The book is divided into three parts: first explaining how mushrooms grow, then how mycorestoration works, and finally how to grow specific types of mushrooms. Mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of the mycelial mat, which intertwines within the soil. Stamets’ view is that the mycelial mat can be used to provide additional nutrients to plants and to more quickly remediate soil after a forest fire. He also provides evidence that some mushroom species are hyper-accumulators of heavy metals and could theoretically be used to clean up waste sites by inoculating the soil with mycelium and harvesting the mushrooms for incineration. He also demonstrates that the use of mycelium when returning old roads to nature speeds up the process significantly. In sum, Stamets’ main point is that the mycelial mat and the mushrooms it produces could be a tool for improving our landscape and remediating ecological disasters in a quick and cost-efficient manner. The book, deals with some technical topics but is easy to read and understand. While somewhat out of date, the website that the text often refers to is still accessible today, with current information. Even sixteen years after publication, the book still has lots to teach about the value that mushrooms can bring to the landscape, even when they aren’t an edible variety. Photo Credit: Ren Henry (1)

< Back Boxelder Bugs Julie Harris, Master Gardener It’s cool but sunny outside and I would like to walk into my front door but the door and wall are covered with black and orange bugs! They are boxelder bugs and they are looking for a warm home for the winter. Read how to manage these nonharmful but annoying pests. As the weather is growing cooler, have you wondered what are those black and orange (or red), half-inch long bugs clinging in swarms to the sunny side of your house or door? Most likely, they are boxelder bugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed in boxelder and maple trees. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. Boxelder bugs belong to the same family as stink bugs, cicadas and insects with “piercing and sucking mouthparts.” They release a bad odor when crushed. They emerge, bright red, in the spring and feed on female boxelder trees; although they may also feed on maple or ash trees. Boxelder bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. They are not generally harmful but they can be an annoyance. Other than removing your female boxelder trees, the best way to manage boxelder bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment. The best time to spray is late summer and early fall. Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom. Boxelder bugs do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some boxelder bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extenison (1, 2), CooperPest (3)

< Back Making Something Lovely After the Blooms Have Faded Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s October in Minnesota and most of your plants are no longer blooming. It’s always a bit sad to see your colorful garden fade for the season. But many of these flowers leave behind lovely seed pods or lovely flowers heads. This article shows you how you can take dried plants from your garden and turn them into a beautiful wreath to enjoy inside. It’s October and most of your flowers are probably no longer blooming. Last year at this time I took a walk around my yard and noticed how many lovely seed pods, dried flower heads, and grass stalks were still waving in the fall breeze. Usually, I fill baskets with them or vases (no water) and set them all over the house for natural, soft color pallet decorations. This year I decided to try my hand at making a wreathe. It wasn’t difficult, just took some time. Boy did it make a mess, but that’s what vacuum cleaners are for, right? Since I had so many dried flowers and grasses, I bought a very large grapevine wreathe to use for my base. I thought I would have to hot melt glue the stems to it, or wire them, or sew them, like I did with the cayenne pepper wreath that was featured a few years ago in the Garden Buzz. This time I kept the stems long when I cut everything out of the gardens, and it worked just fine to gently weave them through the grapevine. Take some time to plan your layout, coming up with a pleasing design based on what you have. For the wreathe pictured here, I used Globe Hydrangea, Garlic Chive, Pampas Grass, Pearly Everlasting and a few ornamental thistle heads. It’s a good idea to spray the entire thing with cheap aerosol hairspray when you are done before you hang it up. Spray it outside. This will help hold the blooms and grasses as they continue to dry out over the years. Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)

< Back The Food Explorer (The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Do you ever wonder where the tasty vegetables, fruits and spices we consume come from? No, I am not talking about the grocery store, or your backyard garden. I am talking about where in the world they originated and how they got to North America. Enjoy this review of “The Food Explorer” by Daniel Stone. And I am certain that you will be tempted to click on your Amazon app and purchase the book! Review by Linda Holt, Master Gardener Did you ever wonder where your banana came from? Or how about that juicy navel orange you crave every morning not only for its sweetness but also for the healthy dose of Vitamin C it provides? Avocados, surely, they are a California staple, along with the almonds we enjoy in everything from the true nut to the almond milk used as a substitute for dairy milk (originally brought to California from Spain by the Franciscan Padres). I must admit that I have always been under the false assumption that America just had these treasures in abundance when this country was founded. I, like many Americans, assumed that the variety of food grown in my garden or purchased from farmers markets and grocery stores, has always been a part of our heritage. However, “The Food Explorer,” corrects the false idea that the incredible wealth of fruit, vegetables, nuts, and even cotton, that we enjoy originated in the United States. This fascinating book explains the origin of these plants from many varied countries and jungles around the world. Author Daniel Stone, armed with a multitude of seemingly endless journals, letters and records, shares the delightful and fascinating story of David Fairchild, a late-nineteenth century food explorer and his benefactor Barbour Lathrop, a wealthy, private citizen whom he met aboard a ship bound for Italy. As a 20-year-old botanist, David left his Kansas home to work for the Department of Agriculture. There he studied ways to combat plant fungus. Along with a colleague named Wallace Swingle, he created a new government agency that they called the “Office of Seed and Plant Introduction”. Between the years of 1894 and 1904, David (consumed by his wanderlust for travel) searched the far reaches of the world for the unusual and delectable. Over that time he transported an inventory of over 4,000 plants; including avocados and watermelons from Chili, Soy Beans from Indonesia, Meyer Lemons from China, nectarines from Pakistan, kale from Croatia, hops from Bavaria and pomegranates from Malta to name a few. It wasn’t always easy, as some of the plants would not survive the journey or due to the abundance of plants and the lack of qualified people to handle them at home, some would eventually die before they could be moved and reproduced. Additionally, he suffered diseases, bargained with island tribes and was once arrested. One of the most fascinating things that Daniel Stone contributed to our nation is the introduction of the cherry blossom tree from Japan. After David fell in love with and married Marian Hubbard Bell (daughter of Alexander Graham Bell), he decided to relinquish his extensive travels and purchase a 10 acre parcel located near Chevy Chase Maryland. There he began to fill the space with his favorite trees and shrubs that he found during his travels. Marian had only one plant request: the Japanese flowering Cherry tree that she referred to as “Cherry Blossom.” The consequential history of this famous tree that outlines the DC Capitol streets is quite extensive and is best read rather than condensed herein. David Fairchild did lead an enviable life that was made possible by happenstance and living during a time period known as “the Gilded Age,” a time of rapid economic growth and industrialization. His story, as told by Daniel Stone, is a fascinating read. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did! Photo credits: book jacket