< Back Potentilla - A Hardy, Cold-Loving Workhorse Shrub Jim Lakin, MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Potentilla is a beautiful and useful native shrub. You may be familiar with the many cultivars of Potentilla that are on the market. But the native Potentilla has benefits that the cultivars do not. Read this article about the qualities of native Potentilla that may make it appealing for your garden. Dasiphora fruticose is known by a several common names: Potentilla , Shrubby or Bush Cinquefoil, Golden Hardhack, Shrubby Fivefinger, Widdy, Tundra Rose and Kuril Tea. Also, it is marketed as a number of attractive cultivars. The native, species plant is a quite hardy shrub doing nicely as far north as Zone 2. Thus, it is native to the cool temperate and subarctic regions of the northern hemisphere, often growing at high altitudes in mountains. It does wonderfully well and is long-lived in central Minnesota. Your author has had a fine patch with southern exposure which has done very well for over 30 years. Potentilla is a deciduous native perennial which grows to 3 to 4 feet being 4 to 5 feet wide. It is a member of the rose family, Rosaceae and produces a multitude of showy yellow flowers in summer into the early fall. It grows well in both clay and sandy soils. This could be a consideration for many parts of the Twin Cities. It will tolerate drought but does best in moist soils. In the wild it congregates in swampy, moisture-retentive soils. It will tolerate part shade, but does much better in full sun, especially if you want abundant flowering in summer. Potentilla is both deer and rabbit resistant. So, if you have “critter” problems, this would be a good choice for border, hedge or foundation planting. Potentilla will spread by rhizomes (underground runners) so it can invade adjacent beds. If it is acting as a woodland border plant, mowing will control spread. Potentilla as a flowering hedge The native is known to attract butterflies and is pollinator friendly. Data on pollinator attraction is scarce on the cultivars of Potentilla such as “Crème brulé”, “Marmalade” and “Happy Face”. There are over 130 named cultivars! As a general rule, they tend not to be as ecologically friendly as the native plant. You pay a price for a pretty face! Since Potentilla is hardy, disease resistant and low maintenance it is found in a wide variety of industrial and commercial plantings. If you are looking for such a ‘happy camper” for your landscape project, this would be a great choice. Photo credits: Walter Siegmund, Wikpedia (1), Oregon State University (2)

< Back How Trees Talk to One Another Karna Berg, Master Gardener Have you ever walked in the woods and thought there was someone there, someone talking? Well, if you have, you were right. It was the trees talking to one another. Oak trees are the perfect example. My back yard has a small, wooded area of mostly oak trees. I now feel them talking to each other. Or are they talking to me? Are they saying they need more water? Would like a sunny day? Just what are they saying? As we all know, our trees are under attack from pollution, drought, pests, and disease. And while trees cannot just move to a more hospitable spot, they can help one another deal with all the stresses on them. Scientists have discovered that trees, and specifically oaks, have developed a root system, or network, through which they communicate. That root system is populated by fungus that aids them in this process. Let’s say a pest is moving into the neighborhood. As we know, they move in slowly, often tracked by tree specialists providing warnings to the public on what to be on the lookout for. Well, the trees are tracking the pests as well. And as the pests land on their branches, they signal ahead through the network that their neighbor trees should be prepared. Oaks and other trees will then produce chemicals and enzymes that help to ward off the pests. It sounds impossible, right? But it is true. Some scientists now even believe that trees also communicate through their leaves. If this is as fascinating to you as it is to me, you can read more about it in some of the books I relied on here. They include: “The Life & Love of Trees,” Lewis Blackwell; “The Hidden Life of Trees: What they Feel, How they Communicate,” Peter Wohllenben; and “Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest,” Suzanne Simard. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1), seeing-nature.de (2)

< Back Food for Thought in the Home Landscape Everyone wants a yard that is both beautiful and functional. For anyone wanting to grow food and make their landscapes more productive, there are many ways to incorporate both, outside of the usual raised beds, berry bushes, and fruit trees. Many more plants and plant parts than you might think are edible, and you can create layered designs to maximize density and diversity. Read this article for ideas and resources that you can put to use in your own yard. Greg Siems, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern When you think of an edible garden, what comes to mind? You might picture some raised beds filled with annual vegetables, a healthy patch of raspberries or rhubarb, or perhaps a small grove of dwarf fruit trees. Beyond these familiar and delicious friends, there are plenty of lesser-known roots, shoots, fruits and flowers that can be incorporated into your home landscape. The University of Minnesota Extension website provides a long of list fruits and flowers that can be grown in Minnesota and incorporated into your home landscape. Of course, only certain flowers are edible, so you must learn which flowers and which parts of a flower are edible. And make sure that the plants you eat have not been treated with harmful chemicals. Some examples of edible flowers listed by the U of M Extension at the above link are: nasturtiums, calendula, squash flower, borage, anise hyssop, bachelor buttons, beebalm and many more. Coneflower and Anise Hyssop If you are interested in exploring edibles and how they can be incorporated in your garden, visit the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Foodscape . The Foodscape at the Farm at the Arb is a great model of “sustainable landscape design that combines the intentional use of food plants for their edible qualities as well as their ornamental value.” Thankfully, there doesn’t always have to be a tradeoff between a yard that looks good and one that tastes good. Foodscape at the UMN Landscape Arboretum Many of us are limited on space for our gardens. In relatively small urban and suburban lots, our eyes can easily become bigger than our yards when it comes to the wide variety of tasty things we could grow. If so, you should become familiar with the food forest approach. A food forest is made up of a variety of plants that mimic growth patterns found in nature. A food forest typically includes larger food-producing trees, small trees and shrubs, and a floor of annuals, perennial, root and ground cover crops and vines. Food forest projects are often group partnerships which make use of larger growing areas. However, you don’t need room for a full “forest” to take advantage of planting in layers. Making full use of the canopy, understory, and floor is a great way to maximize diversity and yields in your home garden. There are also culinary and medicinal uses for many plants that were not intentionally cultivated. Dandelions are a well-known example; others such as plantain , purslane , and even the dreaded creeping bellflower provide some benefits. Learn more about what to look for at this U of M Extension article on weeds so that the next time you are out weeding, consider if there might be a few things you’d like to try in your next salad! What’s more, if you happen to have a taste for these plants, you can harvest to your heart’s content, knowing that you’re helping to strengthen your local ecosystem in the process. Inspiration abounds for expanding your palate and introducing some exciting new elements to your existing panoply of plants. Check out a few of these other Extension resources for more ideas and information: “Edible Gardens for People and Pollinators” - University of Minnesota Extension “The Incredible Edible Landscape” - Iowa State University Extension “Edible Perennials” - University of Illinois Extension “Foraging for Backyard Edibles” - North Carolina State Extension So, take advantage of this great research and put it to use in creating an attractive and edible garden in your yard. Reference: extension.umn.edu A home for homegrown food at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Ten Master Gardener volunteers were part of the team that built The Foodscape surrounding the new Burton and Virginia Myers Education Center. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back Hens and Chicks Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener Sometimes referred to as a “roof Housesleek,” because they would often grow on houses, Hens and Chicks are a delightful perennial even if just grown in your garden. Read Master Gardener Gail Maifeld’s article for more on why Hens and Chicks are perfect for that dry, sunny spot in your yard. Native to Europe and Africa, Hens and Chicks are sometimes referred to as a roof Houseleek as they were grown on houses. Historically, the plant was found along stone walls, slate shingled roofs, and areas of poor sandy soil. The succulent grows as a mat in full sun and is also drought tolerant and deer resistant. Leaves are arranged in rosettes with the center one being the hen. Chicks form around the hen after the bloom fades. Although not planted for the blooms, the daisy like flowers can be light pink, reddish-purple, and pale green. There are several varieties to choose from: Sempervivum Arachnoideum: (cobweb houseleek) – Tips of the leaves are entwined with hairy fibers that appear to be cobwebs Pale green blooms Zones 5-8 Sempervivum Tectorum – Small rosettes quickly forming a 6”-10” mat Flowers may or may not form Reddish leaves and blooms Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Atropureum - This variety has dark reddish-purple leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Limelight – This variety has yellow-green, pink tipped leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Pacific Hawk – This variety has dark red leaves edged with silvery hairs Zones 3-8. Overwatering can lead to root rot so check the soil around the plant before watering. The varieties can be house plants but require a cactus potting soil or sand added to regular potting soil. The plant is divided by separating the new rosettes and rooting them. Blooms of Hens and Chicks do not have a recognizable scent. After the bloom fades it can be cut off or allowed to die back and form compost. Hens and chicks are a low maintenance, drought tolerant plant, and will add interest to a full sun, sandy soil location. For that problematic sunny spot that needs some attention - plant Hens and Chicks. Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2)

< Back Spring Garden Prep - Fun Garden Markers January flew by and now we look forward to preparing for our Spring Garden whether vegetable, flower or perennial. As you begin planning for what you will plant in your gardens this Spring or start seeds inside, don’t forget this important element of a successful garden - Garden Markers! Garden Markers do not only serve a purpose in your garden but also let your kids or grandkids be involved as well. Don’t wonder again what is planted in that row or hill. Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener January flew by and now we look forward to preparing for our Spring Garden whether vegetable, flower or perennial. As you begin planning for what you will plant in your gardens this Spring or start seeds inside, don’t forget this important element of a successful garden - Garden Markers! Garden Markers do not only serve a purpose in your garden but also let your kids or grandkids be involved as well. How many times have you looked into your garden and wondered what was planted in this row or that hill? No need to wonder - take time this Winter to prepare simple, but colorful Garden Markers out of simple items you have at home. Garden Markers can be made from rocks, acrylic glue and a coat of varnish, which will allow them to last through the growing season and sustain natures elements like the sun and rain. Follow the steps below to create simple, but colorful Garden Stone Markers which can be used in a vegetable, flower or perennial garden this Spring. Follow the Steps Below: Create a list of the items you will plant this Spring in your garden which will require a marker. Collect small to medium sized rocks (river rocks work best). Rocks can also be purchased at a local craft store or nursery. (For Perennial Gardens you may want to use larger rocks.) Use Acrylic Paints/Brushes or Paint Pens to decorate the rocks and write on the rock the name of the plant (cover all surfaces) Creative ideas - the entire rock can be painted and then the name written; designs can be painted on the rock with the name or simply the name can be written in a creative way Once the Rocks have dried, coat the rocks with a basic clear varnish (the varnish will protect the design/name from the elements) Let all rocks dry and place in a spot inside until needed in the Spring. Photo credits: flickr.com (1,2,3)

< Back Virginia Creeper: Groundcover and Climber Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a native vine as ground cover in a shady area? Do you want it to cover a tree, a rock wall or an unsightly outbuilding? As explained in this article, Virginia Creeper may be the plant for you. Not only is it versatile, it has many virtues including a beautiful rosy color in the fall. Few native vines are as versatile as Virginia Creeper ( Parthenocissus quinquefolia ) . Do you want a ground cover in a shady area? It’ll do it. Do you want a vine to cover an unsightly outbuilding? It’s at your service! This native workhorse goes by a number of labels, including Virginia creeper, Victoria creeper, Five-Leaved Ivy, or Five-Finger. Virginia Creeper is a species of flowering vine in the grape family, Vitaceae and native to eastern and central North America. It’s commonly found in our own Minnesota woods. It’s not to be confused with Boston ivy, a Japanese import covering the hallowed halls of the Ivy League and Wrigley Field. The latter is invasive and not nearly as decorative as our own native son. Virginia creeper is easy to grow. It is happy in full sun or deep shade in most any well drained soil. Although it seems to prefer a moist, acidic soil. Given time it can grow as long as 50 feet. As it grows by tendrils with adhesive disks at their ends, Virginia creeper can stick itself to whatever it is growing on. So, it can cover almost anything without benefit of a trellis. If you have a low-value tree in the landscape it is perfectly at home growing up its trunk or limbs. We have it growing up a flood light post to great effect. As mentioned above, it also can act as a fine ground cover on a difficult, steep slope. In addition to its versatility and durability, Parthenocissus quinquefolia is a very showy plant, creating a wonderful cloak of green during the spring and summer which turns a fiery red in the fall. Fall also brings a show of blue-black berries which are inedible for us but an important source of energy for birds beginning their migration southward. Another ecological plus is the rich nectar produced by its modest green-white flowers. It is greatly favored by both bees and hummingbirds. Virginia creeper is usually available in most nurseries. There are a couple of cultivars commonly found in the trade: “Star Showers” which has a variegated foliage and “Yellow Wall” whose foliage turns yellow in the fall rather than the red of the species. Either cultivars or species should perform well in most all of Minnesota. Photo Credits: University of Wisconsin-Madison (1,2)

< Back Ethnic Heritage Food Joy Johnson, Master Gardener With the onset of cold weather, embrace your comfort food roots. Joy Johnson shares two of her family’s comfort recipes. Try them and they may become your new comfort food recipes. With the onset of cold weather, my thoughts and appetite go back to the “good old days” when I was a kid. The foods my mother, grandmother and aunts prepared always seemed to be just what I needed. Today we call that ‘comfort food’, going back to what made you feel good as a kid. Thinking back to those wonderful meals, I realize that I have a divided gastronomic family. Half of it is Hungarian and half of it is German. I have terrific recipes from both sides of the family. One year we grew over 30 cabbages. My young daughter and her friend were having such a fun time planting, that I just let them keep going and didn’t realize what I huge harvest we’d have. We fermented over 30 quarts of sauerkraut that year. The soup recipe below is a delicious one to try if you have homemade sauerkraut. It works well with the store-bought kind too. I think it’s fun to try new recipes, especially if they are someone else’s ‘tried and true’ ones, because then you know they’ve been taste tested and honed to perfection over the years. Here are two family tested recipes, one from my Hungarian side and one from my German side. Hmmm, it’s kind of funny, but my mom started serving them both at the same meal, with additional Hungarian dishes on the side. That’s now our newish family tradition, a delicious mixture in one comforting and very satisfying meal. Sauerkraut Soup (from the German side) 1 quart sauerkraut; rinse, squeeze, chop 1 pound Polska Kolbasi sausage ½ cup rice (I use brown rice) Brown flour for thickening (2/3 cup flour toasted in 3 tablespoons butter. Stir constantly until flour turns golden brown) 1 teaspoon caraway seed Cut sausage into bit size slices, cover with water and cook a few minutes to remove fat. Remove slices from water, save water, refrigerate so fat will harden. Remove hardened fat from water and discard. Add sauerkraut and caraway seeds to this water, cook about 15 minutes, add sausage slices, cook 10 minutes, whisk water into the browned flour in a separate bowl until smooth, add a little of this to the soup, add rice. Cook slowly until the rice is done. DON’T add all the browned flour mix at once, see how it thickens, it varies depending on how much water you started with. Bobyka (from the Hungarian side) Take any white bread recipe (or frozen bread dough works). Take a portion of the dough, place in palms of your hands, rubbing back and forth, make it like a rope about a half inch in diameter. Cut into 1-inch pieces and roll them into balls in the palm of your hand. Place on a greased cookie sheet (or cover it with parchment paper). Bake until golden brown at 375 degrees for 15-18 minutes. Immerse them in boiling water for just a few minutes ‘til softened, not too long or they will fall apart. Melt ¼ cup butter, add dough balls (bobykas), add about 1 tablespoon ground poppyseed and about 1 tablespoon honey. Serve warm. They taste like little breadsticks.

< Back Cooking with Garden Vegetables Joy Johnson, Master Gardener The vegetables that you harvested from your garden (or buy from your grocery store) continue to provide healthy and tasty snacks and meals during the cold months of the year. Joy Johnson shares two tasty recipes for you to enjoy as the flowers sleep and the leaves settle to the ground in November. You may still have kale growing in your garden, or maybe you brought armloads inside before the first hard frost and have kept them growing in a vase of water (this actually works). Here’s a simple tasty recipe to make good use of your harvest. Kale Chips Wash and trim the stems on kale leaves. Roll and cut into small slices or cubes. Put slices into a gallon sized ziplock bag. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and ½ tsp salt to the bag. Close and shake gently to distribute oil and salt. Pour onto a parchment paper lined cookie sheet or glass baking dish. Toast for 20 minutes in a 300-degree oven. Corn Chowder This is a delicious, dairy free chowder that contains lots of garden veggies. This recipe is from The American Vegetarian Cookbook by Marilyn Diamond. I have adapted it over the years to whatever veggies need to be used up soon, in addition to what’s listed in this recipe. Feel free to make it your own. Ingredients: 1 Tbsp olive oil 2 cups diced white onions 1 ½ cups diced celery ¾ cup diced bell pepper (red, green or yellow) 4 cups peeled and cubed potatoes (1/2-inch cubes or smaller). If I’m using small red potatoes, I don’t peel them. ¼ tsp ground sage 8 cups of water (or water to cover vegetables by ½ inch) 2 Tbsp light miso or powdered vegetable broth 3 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels 3 Tbsp minced green onion Directions: 1) Measure oil into a large soup pot. Add onions, celery, carrot, and peppers and sauté until vegetables begins to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. 2) Add water, bring to a boil, cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 10-15 minutes, or until potatoes are tender but not mushy. 3) Remove ½ cup of broth and dissolve miso in it. Add to soup and mix well. Cook soup an additional minute, stirring continuously. 4) Remove one-third of soup with lots of vegetables in it and set aside. Blend remaining two-thirds of the soup until smooth with and blender or food processor Stir in reserved soup, corn, and green onion. 5) Bring soup to a low boil, stirring frequently, and simmer for 10 minutes on low heat, continuing to stir so soup does not stick to the bottom. Serves 8. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Using the Last Frozen Vegetables to make Tasty Tacos and Springtime Cake Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s May, you may have a few things peeking up in your garden, or maybe you’re like me and nothing is up yet, and nothing is ready for picking. I’m still living off of veggies that I canned, froze or dried last fall. Here is a crowd-pleasing recipe that makes use of my canned tomatoes, frozen corn and ground venison. You can use ground beef or ground turkey too. It also has corn chips on it, and those are a favorite! It’s very easy to freeze fresh tomatoes. Just pull off any stem, wash and put into freezer baggies and put in the freezer. When you’re ready to use them, take them out of the bag and run them under hot water, the skins will peel right off by rubbing them with your thumbs. Cut out the stem spot and chop for your recipe. You’ll have that wonderful garden fresh tomato taste. Corn Bread Taco Casserole Ingredients 2 pounds ground venison, beef or turkey 2 envelopes taco seasoning 2 cups diced canned tomatoes, drained 1 cup water 1 cup cooked rice 1 can (4 ounces) chopped green chiles 2 packages (8-1/2 ounces each) cornbread/muffin mix 1 cup whole kernel corn 1 cup sour cream 2 cups corn chips 2 cups shredded Mexican cheese blend or cheddar cheese, divided 1 can (2-1/4 ounces) sliced ripe olives, drained Topping: Shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes and chopped red onion Directions Preheat oven to 400°. In a frying pan oven, cook venison over medium heat until no longer pink, 8-10 minutes, breaking it into crumbles; drain. Stir in taco seasoning. Add tomatoes, water, rice and green chiles; heat through, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, prepare cornbread mix according to package directions; stir in corn. Pour half the batter into a greased 13x9-in. baking dish. Layer with half the meat mixture, all the sour cream, half the corn chips and 1 cup cheese. Top with remaining batter, remaining meat mixture and olives. Bake, uncovered, until cornbread is cooked through, 55-60 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining 1 cup corn chips and 1 cup cheese; bake until cheese is melted, 3-5 minutes longer. If desired, serve with lettuce, tomatoes and red onion. Char’s Springtime Cake Some of you may have rhubarb peeking up, but due to our very cold early spring, I doubt it’s ready to pick. I had one package of rhubarb left from last fall in my freezer. I pick the last of my rhubarb in the fall just before it frosts and I wash, cut it into small pieces, put it in a freezer container and freeze it until early spring, like now, when I’m dying for a fresh spring taste of something from the garden. This recipe was adapted from one handed down to me from my wonderful step-mom who passed away last August, from COVID. Hers calls for all rhubarb, but since I didn’t have that much in the freezer, I substituted frozen strawberries and blueberries for part of the rhubarb. This was taste tested by family and friends and determined to be a wonderful taste of spring and summer! Directions Blend: 1 c. flour ½ c. butter 5T. powdered sugar Mix and press into a 13x9 pan. Bake for 15 minutes, until golden at 350 degrees. Mix: 3 eggs 2 ½ c. flour ¼ tsp salt ¾ tsp baking powder Add: 1 ½ cups rhubarb cut into small chunks 1 ½ cups sliced strawberries 1 ½ cups blueberries Pour over crust and sprinkle with cinnamon. Bake 40 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with powdered sugar while still warm. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back April is Here! No Worries - Quick Seed Germination Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The first day of spring has come and gone, but it is still too early to plant seeds outside and maybe too late to start seeds inside? Or is it? Let’s try this quick germination activity with the little ones in your life to get a jumpstart on your flower or vegetable garden. The seeds are bought and we are all anxiously awaiting the gardening season. It is a great time to introduce the children in your life to see germination. The paper towel seed germination method helps to germinate more seeds in less space, pick the best seeds that have germinated and germinate seeds faster. What a simple way to not only see seeds germinate before your eyes, but to also take this process to the next level of transplanting the seedlings into a beautiful vegetable garden plant. Items Needed : Paper Towels (absorbent/thicker ones work the best) Seeds (for beginners try peppers, tomatoes, peas & zucchini) Clear plastic sandwich, pint or gallon bags Permanent Marker Tweezers & Pencil Water (Spray Bottle) Small indoor pots (plastic or biodegradable) to use for transplanting seedlings Potting Soil Let’s Get Started Paper Towel Prep : Wet the paper towels (number of towels will depend on how many seeds are started) Double the paper towels into a large square and wet paper towels by running under water either from faucet or from watering can Ring out paper towels so that they are damp, but not too wet. If the seeds get too wet, they will mold/rot and then will be unable to sprout. Time for Seed Germination Prep : Choose seeds and place on one half of the square paper towel. Once seeds are placed, fold over the other half of the paper towel so that the seeds are sandwiched between. It is recommended that the paper towels should be rolled if you are germinating tomato seeds. The paper towels with the seeds sandwiched between should then be placed in an appropriately sized plastic bag. The bag can be labeled with the type of seed that is inside. The bag can be left open slightly to help prevent mold from forming. Place the Seed Germination Bag in a warm and sunny spot in your home. Daily Monitoring : Daily monitor seeds for roots to appear as well as to monitor for watering needs. A white root will eventually emerge from the seed. Make sure that the paper towel does not dry out and if it begins to dry, mist with a spray bottle. Monitor for mold on the seeds and paper towels as well. Time to Transplant : When the root is an inch or two long it is time to transplant. Prepare small potting containers by placing potting soil inside. Place a hold for planting in the soil by using a pencil to make a hole. The roots are very fragile. Take a tweezer and gently pick-up the seeding by the seed coat. Place the seedling into the hole so that only the white part is beneath the soil. The seed coat and green stem should be above the soil line. Cover the hole gently with soil. Continue this process for each seed that has germinated or the number of seeds you choose to transplant. Before planting outside, wait until your seeds have true leaves and follow the process for acclimating the plants to being transplanted in your outdoor garden. Photo Credits : PxHere.com (1), Flickr.com (2,3), Pexels.com (4)

< Back Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life This month, we are excited to recommend “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life,” by Barbara Kingsolver, a must-read book for gardeners interested in learning more about the connections between food, sustainability, and community. Kingsolver takes readers on a journey through a year of eating only locally grown or produced food, providing practical advice, personal anecdotes, scientific facts, cultural history, and recipes to explore the complex web of issues surrounding food production and consumption. Her engaging writing style and thoughtful insights make this book both inspiring and informative. Reviewed By Kelly K. Vriezen, Master Gardener "Every little bit of action adds up to something big." ~ Barbara Kingsolver “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life” is a beautifully written and insightful book by Barbara Kingsolver that is a must-read for any gardener interested in sustainability and the environment. Part memoir, part journalistic investigation, this Winner of the James Beard Award for Writing and the Indies Choice Book Award for Adult Nonfiction is a personal account of Kingsolver's family's journey towards a more sustainable lifestyle by growing their own food and eating only locally sourced products. The book is divided into chapters that are organized according to the seasons, detailing the challenges and successes of growing and preserving their own food. Kingsolver's writing is both engaging and informative, weaving together anecdotes, scientific facts, and cultural history to create a rich tapestry of the issues surrounding food production and consumption. She shows how our current industrial food system is unsustainable and harmful to the environment, and how growing and eating locally can be a powerful act of resistance and renewal. Her emphasis on the importance of soil health and biodiversity is particularly poignant, and she offers practical advice on everything from food preparation to composting to seed-saving to raising chickens. Also included are recipes and seasonal menus that are sure to spark your interest. One quote from the book that will particularly grab the reader’s attention is: "Our vegetables and fruits, long-lost flavors, are gradually returning to our tables. These local foods also offer a new kind of economic stability to small farmers and communities." This quote captures the essence of what is most compelling about Kingsolver's book - the idea that by growing and eating locally, we can not only improve our health and the health of the environment, but also build stronger, more resilient communities. Overall, “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle” is a thought-provoking and inspiring book that is sure to resonate with gardeners and anyone interested in learning more about the connections between food, sustainability, the environment, and community. It will change the way you shop for food and the way you look at the food you eat. Kingsolver's engaging writing style and thoughtful insights make this a must-read book for anyone passionate about gardening and local food. Photo credit: Book Cover

< Back Parsnips a Favorite Winter Vegetable Katie Possis, Master Gardener The parsnip is the creamy white cousin to carrots that add a nutty but sweet flavor to your winter vegetable table. Parsnips are a taproot vegetable that will enrich a broth or soup by adding another dimension of flavor. Whether parsnips are pureed, baked, sauteed, steamed, mashed or roasted they will not disappoint. Let’s dig in and discover the best way to sow, grow, harvest, store and enjoy this winter vegetable. Pastinaca sativa commonly known as the parsnip is the creamy white cousin to carrots that add a nutty but sweet flavor to your winter vegetable table. Parsnips are a taproot vegetable that will enrich a broth or soup by adding another dimension of flavor. Whether parsnips are pureed, baked, sauteed, steamed, mashed or roasted they will not disappoint. Let’s dig in and discover the best way to sow, grow, harvest, store and enjoy this winter vegetable. Late spring to late summer when the soil temperature is not colder than 46 degrees Fahrenheit is the best time to plant parsnip seeds in full sun or partial sun. Planting companion plants between the rows such as radishes, chives or violas will help fully utilize space in the garden bed. Delicate is the best way to describe the parsnip roots therefore, for best results seeds need to be planted directly into the ground. Plant in loamy soil, which is light, fine soil without compacted clay and well-draining. Well worked soil is preferred to sow seeds ½ inch deep and 6 inches apart. The PH balance needs to be between 6-8, if working with clay-type soil it is best to work in compost to prevent the plant from struggling with root development. After 3 weeks, the parsnip seed will germinate and at 6 weeks it is important to thin out the seedlings. Gloves need to be worn and long sleeves as the leaves and sap of the parsnip plant can be irritating to the skin. During the growing season, it is important to keep the moisture levels consistent as the plants prefer to be watered deeply and will not tolerate drought. If the parsnips are watered irregularly, the parsnip will become tough, which is not the desired result. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation during the first month and a half may be helpful. Mulch around the plants will also aid in obtaining the correct moisture level. Due to the longer growing season, 100-120 days it is necessary to keep up with weed management to ensure proper air flow around the plants. Although parsnips are relatively pest and disease free a few pests to anticipate and manage exist such as caterpillars, carrot fly maggots, and aphides. Caterpillars tend to munch on the leaves. The best course of action is to hand pick the caterpillars off when they appear. To manage the carrot fly maggots plant chives along-side the parsnips which is a natural repellent for the maggots. Aphids also eat parsnips so washing them away with water is the best course of action. Disease such as parsnip canker can be managed by clearing away the previous years plant material that may reside in the soil as it can harbor parsnip canker spores. Harvest the parsnips after a frost or two as the roots become sweeter by turning the starch to sugar. The greens will begin to die back which is the signal for the time to harvest. Gloves are an excellent idea when harvesting. Take great care to loosen the soil around the plants before extracting them from the ground. Extraction is a downward push followed by an upward pull. Remove dirt gently with a brush, remove the green tops and discard, then wash in cold water and pat dry. Leaving the skin on will enhance the flavor of the parsnip. The parsnip is now ready to eat or store. There are several ways to store parsnips: freezing, dehydration or in a container of sand in the basement. To freeze parsnips, start with cleaning, next peel, trim and cut into pieces, blanch in water then transfer into a freezer bag, they will store up to 2-3 months in the freezer. Dehydration drying can take place in a conventional oven at 140 degrees this process can take 20-24 hours the result will store for 4 months to a year. Store in a container of sand in the basement by covering the parsnips entirely with sand and keeping them in a cool, dark place they will store for up to 4 months. Enjoy this winter vegetable in a delicious soup Roasted Vegetable Soup Recipe | Ina Garten | Food Network it’s a shining example of the depth of flavor a parsnip will add to a winter soup. Parsnips are a wonderful accompaniment to fish, beef or poultry. Search | Bon Appetit for a purist parsnip puree recipe. Roasted parsnips bring out the nutty sweetness and taste delicious. Enjoy the roasted goodness sprinkled with a little olive oil and fresh oregano and thyme. Give the parsnip a try, it will not disappoint in winter dishes nor in the garden. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Creative Commons (2)