With climate change, doing the same lawn care, may not yield the same results.  The first step is to evaluate your existing yard.

• Evaluate your existing yard status.  

• What type of soil do you have?  Through the U of MN Extension, you can get a soil text.  See this website for details.   https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden

• Are some areas of your lawn difficult to mow because they are on a slope?   Should you consider replacing this part of the lawn into a pollinator garden with some shrubs and/or pollinator flowers or create a no-mow bee lawn? 

• What type of sun do you have on the various areas of your lawn?  There are grass seed mixes for Shade, Part-Sun, and Sunny areas.  Not all grass seed works for every section of your yard.  Many nurseries have various seed mixes available for sale. Prior to spending money on seed, take stock as to what type of sun/shade is in each area and measure the dimensions so you know how much seed to buy.

• If you are renovating areas of your yard, question why the existing grass did not thrive?  Shady areas especially dense shade is hard to maintain grass.  Fine fescue grasses work best in shady areas, but if it is really dense, even that may not grow thick.  Another option is to create a pathway and plant some native shade plants instead of having a lawn. You can even consider sedges. 

• What areas of your yard get walked on a lot or have damage from pets?   The type of grass mix you put down can make a difference for those areas. 

• Critters such as voles and moles can be a lawn culprit.  For more info about voles/moles, go to this link.  https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage

• Do you have areas of your yard that get excessive salt from the road or driveway?  You may need to prep the soil differently in those areas prior to planting or even consider a rain garden bed in those areas.   

• How much work are you interested in doing to maintain your yard?   Watering and mowing are a lot of resources.  Should you consider a fine fescue grass mix that uses less water and doesn’t need to be mowed as often or potentially a bee lawn?

• There are lots of things to consider before starting on your lawn renovation.   Sometimes it is easier if you take just a section of your yard at a time.  It does not need to be done in one season.

• The U of MN Extension has a Lawn Care Calendar that focuses on what months are best to plant seeds, when to fertilize, and when to lay down seed.  See this link for the calendar. 

• As stated early, late August to Early September is the best time to put down new grass seed if you are starting a new area specially.  Spring is the second-best time.   But if you are wanting to thicken or repair your lawn, putting down seed in late October to November (once it is too cold for grass to germinate) is great for dormant seeding.  

• Preparing the soil for lawn repair.

  • Does your grass have an excessive amount of dead grass called thatch that is killing the grass?  If so, it might need to be dethatched before applying new seed.  Grass seed has to have contact with the dirt to be successful in germination.  Dethatching machines can be rented for large areas.  Hand raking works for small repairs.

  • If you have clay soil, sometimes, you need to consider aerating your lawn on a periodic basis (annually or every few years).  This can be done by renting a machine that will remove soil plugs from your lawn.  

  • Once the lawn has been prepped, laying down seed is the next step.  Seeding in late August to September requires consistent watering when the soil is dry (several times a day).  Dormant seeding in November does not require watering.  The seed will germinate in early Spring.   

  • Purchasing sod is another option for new lawns especially but is more expensive and still requires consistent watering in the early stages.  

There are many things to consider with lawn care maintenance and repair.  This website has additional information if you are interested in learning more.  

Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension 1,2,3,4