< Back How to Deal with Pantry Pests Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener If you have ever opened a bag of flour and found little black speck in it, you have experienced a common household problem – pantry pests. Any kind of dried food, especially flour, meal (example, cornmeal), and cereal, can become a home for pantry pests, which will contaminate all the food they touch. Read this article to learn about what these pests might be, how to prevent them and what to do if you find them in your flour! If you have ever opened a bag of flour and found little black speck in it, you have experienced a common household problem – pantry pests. Any kind of dried food, especially flour, meals (example, cornmeal), and cereal, can become a home for pantry pests, which will contaminate all the food they touch. Pantry pests are not picky. Although their preferred foods are grains, like flour, cereal and other processed food, nearly any food stored a room temperature can be a target. Dried fruits, beans, nuts and spices are favorites. Any open package is also a target, but these pests can get into unopened packages as well. The most common culprits are: moths and multiple types of beetles, cigarette, drugstore and saw-toothed beetles – and weevils. Confused Flour Beetle, found in flour, cereals, meal Rest assured, you did nothing to cause this problem! These pests come from granaries, warehouses and food processing plants. They travel from the grocery store to your home and are so tine – many are 1/8” in length or less – they can be difficult, if not impossible, to spot until they multiply, infesting your food. Merchant Grain Beetle, found in Cereals, pasta, flour, meal, nuts, cracked seeds, seed dust How to prevent infestations Prevention is the best cure. Check incoming groceries, including pet and bird food. Better yet, check packages in the grocery store before you buy! Look for packages that are not well sealed or have tiny holes. Avoid packages that have dents or scratches. Check the expiration date – the longer a product has been sitting around in the same place, the more likely it is to be infested. Also, the longer a product sits in your pantry the more likely it is to become infested. The answer is to buy small packages that you can use up in two to four months. Consider transferring target foods to glass, plastic or metal containers with airtight seals. They keep pests out much better than cardboard or foil. Or store products, like flour and other meals, in your refrigerator. How to you know if you have an infestation If you find a pest in an area where you don’t store food – especially in the summer when insects flourish – you probably don’t need to worry. But if they are on your counter or the floor near your pantry, it could be an early sign of pest infestation. What to do about it If you find a pest, throw away the box or package it is in. Check the products that were stored near it. If you can’t see the bottom of a package or box, pour the food onto a baking sheet and check it with a flashlight. Granary Weevil, found in Whole grains, rice, corn, millet, rye, beans, bird seed, and caked meal If you don’t find anything, the pest was likely an isolated incident. However, if you do find an infestation or even just a pest or two, do the following: Empty out your pantry Vacuum the shelves Wash down the shelves with soapy water Check each package and box before returning it to the shelf Don’t do the following: Apply bleach ammonia or pesticides – they don’t work and are dangerous if they contact food Spray the area with insecticides If you have concerns or want to be extra cautious, freeze the package or box for three to four days. Alternatively, you can heat the product in an oven at 140 degrees fahrenheit for two or three yours. Either method will kill any eggs or larvae. If you have survived an infestation – or want to be sure you never have one- clean your pantry shelves every three to six months, which has the extra benefit of helping you stay organized! References : https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/pantry-pests-insects-found-stored-food https://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/packages/kitchen-fixes/everything-about-pantry-pests https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/common-pantry-pests-and-their-management https://extension.psu.edu/cereal-and-pantry-pests Picture Credits: Gary Alpert, Penn State Extension (1,2), University of Nebraska, Department of Entomology (3)

< Back October - “Fall”ing for Compost Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Supplies Needed : Large Plastic Water/Pop Bottle or Comparable Container Utility Knife, Push Pin/Tack or Small Nail Small Dish or Tray to set Bottle into Greens (ex. vegetable and/or fruit food scraps, non-fertilized grass clippings) Browns (ex. sticks, leaves, sawdust, pine needles, clean cardboard) Spray Bottle with Water Long dowel, long handled Spoon or Narrow Trowel Sunny spot - on shelf, counter, windowsill Patience Composting is a natural way of helping the environment using our home and garden waste to create compost that can be used in our gardens and plantings. By placing waste items together (greens & browns) and allowing them to break down or decompose we help to cut down on the food and yard waste scraps we throw away on a day-to-day basis. Composting also provides wonderful benefits as a gardener as a way of natural recycling…turning items we typically would throw away and turning them into usable soil for our future plants. Starting small and educating our “Little Sprouts” about the importance of the how-to’s of composting and letting them create their own compost container benefits us all. If using a large plastic water/pop container, please have an adult cut the top of the bottle off just as it begins to round downward. Next, if age appropriate, allow your “Little Sprout” to use the pin/tack to push through the bottom of the bottle/container to make a few small holes. If the plastic is too thick or the child is too small, please have the adult place holes in the bottom of the container. A small dish or tray will catch any moisture that escapes from the bottom. What about the browns and greens? Composting is like cooking with a recipe. Just like when baking cookies, various ingredients are needed and the same is true with creating a successful compost. To create a successful compost both greens and browns are needed in addition to water and the natural process of decomposition. “Greens” are simply the moist ingredient that provides nitrogen and moisture that helps things grow. Greens include fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, coffee and tea grounds and eggshells. Yes - “Greens” don’t necessarily need to be green. “Browns” are the items we add to the compost that provide air pockets in the pile, increase bulk and are full of carbon. The brown items include dry leaves, cardboard and plain paper (no shiny paper, tape or printing on cardboard), non-died wood chips, twigs, sticks, sawdust and pine needles. Again, all materials don’t necessarily need to be brown, but for the most part browns are brown. What not to use in my home compost: dairy, fish, meat and fats should be avoided. Next is the real fun…layering the browns and greens (In a larger compost bin the ratio of browns to greens is 2-1, but in our small compost bin just try your best.). The container used does not have to be filled to the top in that composting is about adding layers as you go and as you produce green and brown compostable items. In the container place brown materials first. Spray the layer lightly with water and then proceed with a green layer followed by another brown layer. Spray a light mist and place another green layer followed by brown. Repeat until you have filled your compost bin to the top or have decided to stop. Don’t forget to mist the brown layer each time. Once you have reached the level of compost in the container, place it in a sunny location. As the elements added decompose with the help of good bacteria and fungi, you will begin to see the actual breakdown of the elements involved. But your “Little Sprouts” job is not done. The compost needs to be turned so take a small dowel, trowel or spoon and turn the compost. Turning the compost can take place every 2-3 days. The slow process of decomposing takes time so be patient. It can take months for the greens and browns to turn into the perfect compost, but it is worth the wait. When the product being created is a dark color, falls apart and smells like soil, then your compost is ready. Remember, greens and browns can continually be added to the container so keep it up. Overtime, wonderful compost will be created and can be used in your garden or around your flowers. Happy Fall Composting! Photo credit: pexels.com (1,2,3)

< Back What to Do with All Those Leaves? Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . . and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . .and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Managing Leaves in Your Yard In a forest, tree leaves and other organics form a natural carpet over the soil surface. This conserves moisture, controls temperatures and prevents the soil from eroding. Over time bacteria, fungi and other natural organisms decompose or compost the leaves to supply plants with a natural, slow-release form of nutrients. Consider capturing these same benefits for your own landscapes. Leaves contain up to 80 percent of the nutrients a tree captures from the soil and air during its growing season! Rather than bagging leaves and placing them at the curb to be hauled to landfills or compost sites, you can: Mow Them A light covering of leaves can be mowed; simply leave the shredded leaves in place on the lawn. This technique is most effective when a mulching mower is used. In fact, when leaf drop is light—or you have only a few small trees in your yard--this technique is the most efficient way to manage leaf accumulation. Use Them For Mulch Leaves can be used as a mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds and around shrubs and trees. As an option to raking, a lawn mower with a bagging attachment provides a fast and easy way to shred and collect the leaves. Leaves that have been mowed or run through some other type of shredder will decompose faster and are much more likely to remain in place than unshredded leaves. Apply a 3 to 6 inch layer of shredded leaves around the base of trees and shrubs. In annual and perennial flower beds, a 2 to 3 inch mulch of shredded leaves is ideal. Mulches are especially beneficial when used around newly established landscape plants, greatly increasing the likelihood of their survival. You can even begin to establish a no-till vegetable garden in late fall by heaping 8 to 10 inches of leaves on a defined bed area in a sunny spot in your yard. A heavy layer not only keeps weeds from growing, it also keeps the underlying soil moist, greatly reducing the amount of watering you need in the summer. Improve Your Soil Work leaves directly into your garden and flower bed soils now so they decompose by spring. A 6 to 8 inch layer of leaves tilled into heavy, clay soil will improve aeration and drainage. Tilling into a light, sandy soil, will improve capacity to hold water and nutrients. But remember, almost all trees and shrubs are susceptible to one or more leaf spot diseases. Fallen leaves that are diseased can harbor plant pathogens over the winter and reinfect the following growing season. These leaves should be raked up and destroyed before the first snowfall. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: Should I Mulch or Bag My Leaves? - Should I mulch? Or bag my leaves this fall? (umn.edu) Freeze Dried Leaves on Trees - Freeze-dried leaves on trees caused by early cold temperatures | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Bird Feeding Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. PLACEMENT OF BIRD FEEDERS Always place your bird feeders where you can frequently see the birds feeding but no closer than 3 feet from your windows. If you want to attract a larger number of birds, use Nyjer and black oiled sunflowers in a tube feeder, hulled sunflowers and whole peanuts in hopper and platform feeders (beware though that squirrels will love and go after the peanuts). You can also use alternative foods such as suet, fruits, mealworms, and nectar (great for hummingbirds). Adding habitat, food, water, and nest boxes will attract birds year-round. Feeders near larger trees and shrubs attract more visits to your feeders. Keep feeders free of debris and fill only with seeds birds will eat. Overcrowding at feeders can increase a bird’s stress level making them susceptible to disease. Choose feeders that maximize contact between birds and provide them with additional places to feed. Keep your feeding area clean of seed hulls and bird droppings by sweeping or vacuuming the ground below the feeders. You can also use no-waste seeds or seed mixes containing hulled seeds. Avoid feeders with sharp edges or points which can puncture the skin and cause bleeding or scratches that facilitate transmission of disease. CLEANING BIRD FEEDERS The best practice is to regularly clean your feeders approximately once a month with one part bleach to nine parts of water. Completely immerse feeders for at least 3 minutes and allow them to dry. Scrub bird baths and change the water several times a week to prevent mosquito reproduction and the spread of West Nile Virus. STORING BIRD SEED Store your bird food properly to ensure the seed is fresh. Store bird seed in areas that are cool and have low humidity. I keep my seeds in Menards sealed storage containers and store them in our indoor porch pantry which is cool year-round. HPAI (AVIAN BIRD FLU) This summer was a scary one for all bird watchers when we were advised to stop feeding the birds due to the Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (bird flu). The AVIAN flu is typically found in aquatic birds (swans, geese, ducks, etc.) who often don’t get sick but are sources for infection for domestic poultry (chickens and turkeys). The Raptor Center has been tracking the outbreak of AVIAN influenza in various bird species. Numbers were high for infection between March 28th through May 15th of this year. Although the number of cases has been on the decline, the risk from bird feeders is now low enough that we can use our feeders again. HPAI rarely infects humans, but depending on the virus strain it can have a severe impact on susceptible birds of many species. It’s easily transmitted in the feces and respiratory secretions of infected birds, especially during the migration season. The virus can also survive cold and freezing temperatures and will survive in aquatic environments. Henceforth, this is even more important for sanitation in our bird feeders. For more information on HPAI, refer to the Raptor Center at the University of Minnesota. University of Minnesota, Raptor Center National Bird-Feeding Society DNR Bird Feeding Guide All photos courtesy of Duncraft.com except as noted Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), jdorganizer.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Growing Sweet Potatoes in Minnesota Growing potatoes in Minnesota is easy, and you can grow many varieties, sizes, and colors. Sweet potatoes are a whole other story. They aren’t even in the same family as potatoes, who belong to the nightshade family. Sweet potatoes typically need a long, hot growing season – which can be a challenge in Minnesota. Read this article to learn the secrets to growing sweet potatoes in your back yard. Michelle Scullard, Master Gardener Growing potatoes in Minnesota is easy, and you can grow many varieties, sizes, and colors. Sweet potatoes are a whole other story. They aren’t even in the same family as potatoes, who belong to the nightshade family ( Solanaceae ), similar to peppers and tomatoes. Sweet potatoes belong to the ( Convolvulaceae ) family, as do morning glory flowers. Kind of makes sense when we recall the luscious sweet potato vines we often use in containers (purple and lime colored) and how much they do look like morning glory vines. Unlike regular potatoes, sweet potatoes need a long and hot growing season. Sounds like a typical Minnesota summer, right? In many of our dreams, maybe. In Dakota County, we land firmly in USDA Growing Zone 4b , which means we have a little bit longer growing season than our fellow Minnesotans in northern Minnesota, but not as long as a sweet potato really needs. What this all means is that we have to put more work into successfully growing that yummy sweet potato. It starts with choosing the right variety of sweet potato. The two most successfully grown varieties in Minnesota are “Beauregard” and “Georgia Jet”. Beauregard is considered to have great flavor while Georgia Jet is more consistently successful here. Both produce a harvest in about 90 days instead of the usual 100-170 days most other varieties require. You plant them after the danger of frost, which is around mid-May here, according to the MN DNR’s Last Spring Frost map (but keep an eye on those nightly temperatures). Start the sweet potatoes from slips, not seeds. Sweet potatoes prefer a soil pH between 5.5 – 6.5. To provide as warm a planting site as possible, choose a location that receives at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day. It is recommended that you mound the soil or create ridges that are 8-12 inches high, or plant in a raised bed. Place black plastic over the soil to help heat the soil and maintain the warmth throughout the growing season. It is suggested that you plant in the late afternoon when the soil has warmed. Plant the slips 10-18 inches apart in rows that are three feet apart, about 4 inches deep, making sure the roots are covered completely with soil. You want to leave space for the vines to spread. There are differing opinions about whether to use fertilizer or not. Some people feel it detracts from the flavor, however, others think fertilizer is needed to produce a larger harvest. If you do choose to fertilize, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer, avoiding excessive Nitrogen. Place the fertilizer to the side of the plant (called side dressing) about six weeks after planting. Water regularly, providing the plants with about ¾ of an inch a week initially, and watering more often as the plants mature. You will want to stop watering two weeks before you harvest. Carefully dig the sweet potatoes before the first frost (usually mid-October). Try to avoid bruising or cutting them by using a potato fork or even moving the soil away with your hands. Once you harvest the sweet potatoes, you are going to have to wait between one to three weeks before eating because they need to ‘cure’. The curing process turns the starches in the sweet potato to sugars, producing the characteristic sweetness of the potato. If properly cured, you can store sweet potatoes in a dry 55° F area for several months. Then, eat and enjoy! References used in this article https://northerngardener.org/sweet-potato/ Minnesota State Horticultural Society https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/growing-sweet-potatoes-zm0z11zsto/ Mother Earth News https://www.seedsavers.org/site/pdf/SweetPotatoGrowingGuide1.pdf Seed Savers https://www.burpee.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sweet%20potatoes Burpee (not an endorsement of any seed catalog as many garden catalogs carry sweet potato slips) Photo credits: USDA. https://snaped.fns.usda.gov/seasonal-produce-guide/sweet-potatoes-yams (1), www/.scientificgardener.blogspot.com (2), University of Georgia Extension. https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1014 (3)

< Back Minnesota Arbor Day - April 28, 2023 Mary Gadek, Master Gardener “He who plants a tree, plants hope.” ~Lucy Larcom Each year, Arbor Day is celebrated around the world. Each state in the United States sets aside one day each year for its Arbor Day to think about why trees are important to the world and to celebrate them. Minnesota has chosen the last Friday in April for its Arbor Day. Click here to learn why there is an Arbor Day celebration and how to celebrate it with your family. Let’s celebrate our Minnesota trees on Arbor Day, April 28, 2023! Everywhere you go in Minnesota, you see many trees of different types, sizes and shapes. Why celebrate Arbor Day? Arbor Day highlights the power and importance of trees in the World. Trees help our climate . The bad emissions from things like some vehicles and machinery and land use changes have added too much carbon dioxide into our air. Trees can improve the air by pulling in carbon dioxide and then, in exchange, releasing oxygen back into our air. Trees benefit our communities . In addition to cleaning our air, trees filter water and slow storm flooding in our neighborhoods. The shade of a tree near a home or building can keep it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter as well as provide a beautiful area for physical activity. Also, trees have been shown to calm stress when doing activities, like resting under a tree or strolling through a forest. Trees maintain the biodiversity of the environment . “Biodiversity”, or the collection of plants, animals and other creatures in an area, fosters balance among each other that is needed to live, providing food and shelter in an environment. A tree can give shelter on its branches or under its canopy as well as provide seeds and nuts for food to the wildlife around it. How to celebrate Arbor Day? Plant a tree . Arbor Day is celebrated by planting a tree or trees to continue the benefits of trees in our world. Starting as early as February through May, many cities in Dakota County have tree sales, of smaller, bare root trees for economical prices. Perfect for a yard with little to no trees! See links below for some Dakota County tree sales. Participate in one of the many educational activities . The Arbor Day Foundation’s website has many educational resources, including activity sheets and interactive learning pages, to further your child’s knowledge about trees. https://www.arborday.org/kids/ Read about a special tree . The Giving Tree by Shel Silverstein is a picture book for all ages with the main character of a tree giving love and acceptance all of its life. The Giving Tree by Shel Silverstein . Check it out at the Dakota County library. Or purchase on Amazon : So, help you child plant a tree or take part in one of the many educational activities related to trees. Or, on any old day, just take a walk among the trees and help you child appreciate all that trees do for us. Dakota County tree sales links: (this is not an exhaustive list; more sales will become available through May; check your local city or township website if it is not listed below): https://dakotaswcd.org/2023-tree-sale-2/ https://www.lakevillemn.gov/723/Annual-Arbor-Day-Tree-and-Shrub-Sale https://cityofeagan.com/treesale https://www.burnsvillemn.gov/1008/Tree-Sale https://treetrust.org/non-profit/trees-for-sale/mendota-heights/ Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1, 2), Matt Gadek (3), book cover (4)

< Back Buttonbush (Queen of the Wetlands) Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Buttonbush is a great shrub for naturalizing in wet areas and attracts butterflies. Read more about its attributes. We have some wonderful marsh lands on our property. Among the Giant Blue Lobelias and the Cardinal flowers, there’s a delightful shrub that stands out, the Buttonbush ( Cephalanthus occidentalis ). This is a native perennial plant to much of the Eastern North America from Nova Scotia to Minnesota, south to Florida and East Texas. You’ll find it in a range of wetland habitats including swamps, floodplains, mangroves, around ponds and margins of streams and even moist forest understories. It grows as a deciduous shrub or small tree, running from three to ten feet in height. It has glossy green leaves which appear in the late spring. Its unique fragrant white to pink bloom, shown in the first picture, gives it its common name. Buttonbush usually blooms from June through September although this period may be shorter further north. It was introduced commercially in 1735 as a source of nectar for commercial honey production. Thus, it’s other common name, Honey Bells. Buttonbush forms an important link in the wetland ecology. A number of waterfowl eat the seeds and wood ducks use the plant as nest protection. We’ve had a pair in our pond for several years that seem to regularly avail themselves of our buttonbushes building material. Deer browse the foliage which surprisingly is poisonous to livestock. Darn deer eat anything! A number of native as well as honey bees feed on the nectar as do hummingbirds. The plant acts as larval host to Titan Sphinx, Walnut and Hydrangea Sphinx moths. It can be used in butterfly gardens, as a naturalizing plant or to control erosion in difficult, moist areas. It’s great for naturalizing. To grow Buttonbush, select a fairly moist environment. As you might imagine it has a pretty high water requirement even though it likes shade to part shade. It is a spreading multi-branched shrub with an irregular crown which produces balls of white flowers resembling pincushions. As it can get a bit lanky, plants in a more formal setting might need to be pruned from time to time. It is a rapid grower and spreads by suckering. It is said to be hardy from Zones 5 to 11 although a number of plants do just fine in Zone 4. For Minnesota gardeners it might be wise to consider planting in a protected area and mulching in the fall at least for the first year or two. Getting a local specimen is also important. Buttonbush is an otherwise hardy ornamental perennial. It’s a native that is an attractive addition to any moist shady area. Photo credits: Jim Evans, Wikimedia Commons (1), C. Fannon, University of Texas (2)

< Back All About Those Bee Houses Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Bee house? Pollinator palace? Bug hotel? Check out some ideas for building pollinator real estate with the child in your life and find out why we may want to invite pollinators into our yards and gardens! A quick search of the internet finds all kinds of simple or fancy kits for making bee houses. These are for solitary bees that travel alone and lay their eggs, not the bees like honeybees that live in a group hive. Here’s one child-friendly idea to try at home: Select the shelter. I found that a round tissue holder was just the right size for my 8 in tunnels, but see what you have around your house and yard. The container should be open on one side, closed on the back and have a way for rain to run off. You can decorate the house with paints or markers if you like, or leave it just as it is. Bees like all kinds of decor! Make or find your tunnels. Here, I used a combination of empty toilet paper rolls to hold everything in place, some of last year’s dried plant stems (hosta and hydrangea - they have little tunnels just right for a solitary bee to burrow inside), and some paper that I rolled around a pencil and secured with a bit of tape. Different sized tubes are nice for different bees. Secure your bee house in a location with morning sun, evening shade, and some shelter from the wind. I found a great spot where the tree branch meets the trunk of the tree and used some twine to secure the bee house. Observe your bee house from a little distance and see who moves into your new pollinator apartments. See up close how a mason bee builds and uses its nest in the diagram from the University of Minnesota - Extension below: Why would we want to invite bees to our outdoor spaces? Well, besides being pretty interesting creatures to observe, bees are part of a special group called pollinators. This group includes bees, plus butterflies, moths, wasps, flies, beetles and birds. Pollinators are important because they help plants grow fruit and seeds! When a pollinator stops by a flower on a plant to drink up some nectar (the pollinator version of a yummy and nutritious smoothie before they continue on their way), they pick up some pollen dust on their bodies. The next time they land on a flower, they drop off some of this pollen and fertilize that plant. Then comes the fruit with seeds inside. So, think about apples, strawberries, pumpkins and a whole lot of other foods and flowers. If you like any of those, the pollinators are definitely helping you! So where does the new house come in? Well, after all that hard work, pollinators need a safe and sheltered place to rest and raise their young. They don’t need fancy accommodations, but pollinators do appreciate: a place to cool down and shelter from the wind, rain and hot afternoon sun a place to lay eggs and overwinter an accessible water source a nice buffet of pollinator-friendly plants like coneflower, milkweed and bee balm nearby You may know about “social” pollinators like honeybees that live in a hive with many other bees, but did you know we can also provide a habitat for helpful “solitary” pollinators such as mason bees. About 15% of bees nest on their own and lay eggs in cavities (tunnels) like the hollow tubes of dead plants or in spaces they find in brush piles. Consider installing a bee house any time during the year and you could be helping native solitary bees find their favorite apartment! Are you interested in reading to learn more about pollinator habitats? Take a look at these books, available through Dakota County Library: Nature’s Best Hope (Young Readers Edition) by Douglas W. Tallamy “This middle grade edition of the groundbreaking bestseller will inspire kids to use their backyard to help save the plant. Tallamy encourages kids to take direct action. Some of these ideas include planting an oak tree (one of the most important tree species) at home. If that’s too large of a task, he suggests they can plant asters - a beautiful flower whose pollen bees use to feed their young.” Turn This Book Into a Beehive! And 19 Other Experiments and Activities That Explore the Amazing World of Bees by Lynn Brunelle “[This book] lets kids make a difference in the world - building a home where bees can thrive is one small but critical step in reversing the alarming trend of dwindling bee populations” - provided by publisher Interested in even more information about this topic? https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants-insects/pollinators https://beelab.umn.edu/creat-nesting-habitat Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4)

< Back Houseplant Pests Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Discovering and controlling pests on your indoor plants is an important step for keeping your indoor garden healthy and happy. The information in this article will help you keep these unwanted visitors off your plants and out of your home. Last month we talked about keeping your houseplants healthy, paying attention to growing requirements, fertilization, watering, hygiene and potting soil. Minding all these factors will reduce the chance of sickly plants and pest attacks. Yet, alas, in even the best of environments, insect problems sometimes rear their ugly heads. So, what to do if you suspect you have some unwelcome residents on your houseplants? As we said, inspect them for insect pests when you water, clean or fertilize. They most often congregate on the underside of leaves. You should look for insects, holes, webbing or eggs. Give an even closer inspection to any plants brought in from the store or the outside. Using a magnifying glass helps. It also impresses any bystanders. You want to look for “honeydew” which is a shiny sticky substance produced by aphids, mealybugs and scale insects. Also check plant containers for pests along the ridges and bottom of pots and saucers. It’s not a bad idea to put a new plant in quarantine, away from the rest of your collection, for a week or two. More often than not a pest problem will declare itself during this period. Honeydew on houseplant leaves. When you water the plants keep a sharp lookout for bugs like springtails and fungus gnats. They usually move with the water. If you think you might have flying insects like thrips, winged aphids, fungus gnats or whiteflies, setting up a sticky paper trap like the one illustrated can help in detection. A yellow sticky card can trap flies. If you find an infestation early on, more often than not you can manage it without pesticides. That’s good for you and for the environment. Washing the plant will remove small infestations. Use a paper towel to wipe leaves, changing the paper frequently to prevent spread. You can wash small plants in the sink and larger ones in the shower. Be one with your Ficus! You can physically remove many pests. Larger insects such as millipedes, slugs, caterpillars or earwigs can be picked off the plants. Mealybugs can be removed with a forceps (tweezers) or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Those hard little grey scales can be taken off the plant with a fingernail file. Pruning is another option if the critters are isolated on a few leaves, stems or branches. Be aggressive. Most plants will recover remarkably well if relieved of their insect burden and given the right growing environment. If all else fails and the plant looks like a goner, don’t hesitate to toss it. This avoids exposing other plants to the same pest problem, which will save you grief in the long run. Rather than composting the diseased plant, I prefer to wrap it in a Ziplock bag and put it in the trash. To obtain more information about specific pests as well as what to do if non-chemical methods fail to control your problem, check out Prof. Jeffery Hahn’s recommendations on the University of Minnesota Extension website: https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/insects-indoor-plants#using-pesticides-for-pest-management-1580961 Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back Junior Winter Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener Do you know a child who has wondered where all the garden creatures live in the winter in Minnesota? Help that child become a Junior Winter Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific techniques and then searching outside to solve this chilly mystery. CALLING ALL JUNIOR WINTER GARDEN DETECTIVES! Do you know a child who has wondered where all the garden creatures live in the winter in Minnesota? Help that child become a Junior Winter Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific techniques and then searching outside to solve this chilly mystery. NOTE: Adults can help guide, or work together with, their child through this project. Utilize the books mentioned later in this article to reinforce the information from this article and to assist younger children in learning the concepts. Junior Winter Garden Detectives - Let’s find out where birds, common Minnesota animals, turtles, frogs and insects live in Minnesota winters. Some creatures migrate, or move, to a warmer part of the world in late summer or fall. Many others remain here in Minnesota. But, where are they all? Often, they are not so easy to see. By READING the clues from the information below, you will be able to solve the case of the hiding winter creatures by looking in your own backyard or neighborhood park. THE CLUES BIRDS - When the cold and wind of a Minnesota winter settles in, watch for birds to make a roost and group together in the holes of trees, next to trees or a thicket of pines . Insect eating birds fly South for the winter so they can eat insects from open water in warmer climates. The remaining birds can survive on the seeds, berries and garden waste found in our yards and parks during the cold weather. Sometimes people leave seed in bird feeders to help these birds survive during the cold days. Just like humans, birds keep warm with their down coat; that is, their feathers. Some common Minnesota winter birds are cardinals, finches, blue jays and woodpeckers. DEER AND SQUIRRELS - Look around and you will see many animals, including deer and squirrels, in your local landscape. Deer stay active and hang out by stands, or groups, of pine trees . These trees, called conifers, keep their needles all year round so snow can easily collect on their branches and keeps the forest floor warm and dry underneath for a cozy gathering spot. The common gray squirrel can be seen occasionally popping out from their nests in tree cavities or leaf and piles collected from trees in the fall and thickened by moss. You can view the squirrels scampering around nearby their nests to retrieve the food they hoarded in the fall, foraging on pine cone seeds, or stealing from the bird feeder in your yard. TURTLES AND FROGS - Keep a sharp eye open for turtles hibernating, or sleeping all winter, at the bottom of a pond or lake, digging themselves into the mud of the water's bottom , where the temperature stays warmer and more stable than up at the top of the water's surface. Frogs can be found in two different areas, depending on the type: 1. Aquatic frogs hibernate in the water near the bottom of the stream or pond where they breathe oxygen from the water through their skin; and, 2. Tree and wood frogs become dormant under leaves and plants from the past growing season in our garden and then freeze solid for the winter months. These frogs’ bodies use a special process where a natural antifreeze, called glycerol, keeps their organs from fully freezing . Carefully look under some leaf piles and you might see a frog that looks dead but really is just temporarily frozen. How is this possible?! All good detectives verify their clues--see below for more information on this special antifreeze process. INSECTS - Minnesota insects survive winter by migrating, by tolerating the cold or by avoiding the cold. Monarch butterflies migrate 3,000 miles to the warm south. The Banded Woolly Bear caterpillar tolerates the cold by becoming dormant underneath leaf litter and a blanket of snow, similar to the tree and wood frogs, after producing special antifreeze called glycero l, which keeps its cells from bursting when they freeze. (See the scientific process below). Bees hibernate in winter in one of three ways: in the ground, in flower stem cavities or, for bumble bee Queens, under leaves and brush. Most bees in Minnesota are ground nesters who burrow into bare soil to stay warm in winter and lay eggs for spring. Look for a small ¼-½ hole for a tunnel in the soil without a lot of plant cover to get a glimpse of where a bee might be in its winter slumber. You will need to wait until spring before you see a bee emerge! Some other bees take winter shelter and lay eggs in the hollow of flower stems . A garden left for a spring cleanup, instead of in the fall, will reveal hollow stems where flowers once were. Imagine bees and their eggs resting, safe from the harsh winter conditions. Bumble bee queens prefer to tuck into leaves or brush left in the garden, often near pollinator plants. The workers have died in the fall, while the Queens are left to start new colonies in the spring. READ READ these children’s books to do additional detective work with your child to see how creatures live in winters. Winter Dance by Marion Dane Bauer, tells about a red fox's discovery of how to live in the winter while learning about what some other creatures do for homes in the winter. Available at the Dakota County libraries. ISBN: 9780544313347 or, buy at Amazon : Over and Under the Snow by Kate Messner and art by Christopher Silas Neal, takes you along a cross country ski family adventure to what creatures are out and about in the winter. Available at Dakota County library. ISBN: 9780811867849, or buy through Amazon : DO EVIDENCE: WHAT IS IT LIKE FOR THE FROG AND BANDED WOOLLY BEAR CATERPILLAR TO HAVE ANTIFREEZE Once you gather all your clues, every good detective verifies the clues. Our clues show an amazing antifreeze process for tree and wood frogs and the banded woolly bear caterpillar, which allows these critters to live in the Minnesota winter. Using your detective skills, let’s do the following experiment to see what the antifreeze is like in the frogs and caterpillars. Supplies Any Gelatin Hot water from tap (not boiling), amount used in gelatin instructions Small paper cups (or small ziplock bags) Tablespoon Directions Follow the instructions to prepare the gelatin, but using warm water (not boiling). Fill a paper cup with about 1 tablespoon of the prepared gelatin. Put the cup in the freezer for about 20 minutes. (The antifreeze process for frogs occurs in about 20 minutes). When the time has elapsed, take the cup out of the freezer. You will notice the gelatin is part frozen, part liquid. The mixture is similar to the liquid in the organs of these creatures that stays cold but not frozen so they can survive being dormant in the winter. SOLVE THE CASE: FIND THE ANIMALS The last step for Junior Winter Garden Detectives is to find the animals or their homes outside! Put on your winter boots or snowshoes and go search to solve the case. Make notes on the checklist provided below or make a photo journal of the winter garden homes you find. JUNIOR WINTER GARDEN DETECTIVE CHECKLIST Check off the creatures you see outside. For the critters that go dormant, use your imagination and find a spot that might be their winter home. Note: Since they are trying to stay warm, it might take a few visits outside before you complete the list. Optional: list where you see them or take a photograph. 1.Birds 2. Deer 3. Squirrels 4. Turtles 5. Aquatic Frogs 6. Tree and wood frog 7. Banded Woolly Bear Caterpillar 8. Bees- A. Ground Nester B. Flower Stem Cavities C. Bumble Bee Queens SOURCES How Do Critters Survive Minnesota Winters https://www.southwestjournal.com/voices/livin-thing/2019/01/how-do-critters-survive-minnesota-winters How Evergreens Provide a Winter Oasis for Wildlife https://www.plt.org/educator-tips/evergreens-winter-wildlife/ Common Winter Birds in Central Minnesota https://www.friendsofthewildflowergarden.org/pages/seasonal/birdswinter.html How Do Frogs Survive Winter? Why Don't They Freeze to Death? https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/how-do-frogs-survive-wint/ Woolly Bears in the Snow https://carpenternaturecenter.org/woolly-bears-in-the-snow/ Give Bees a Chance: Fall Cleanup for Pollinators https://www.anokamastergardeners.org/blog/give-bees-a-chance-fall-cleanup-for-pollinators Minnesota Master Naturalist Explorers Winter Curriculum https://www.minnesotamasternaturalist.org/docs/Explorers/Winter_curriculum_.pdf Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9), Donald Lorr (8)

< Back The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life “The Backyard Parables: Lesson on Gardening, and Life,” is a gardening memoir of sorts writing by Margaret Roach. Roach, a former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine, quit her job to tend to her gardens full-time. In this delightful book, Roach dispenses both gardening and life lessons. Read this book review to learn more. Reviewed by Linda Holt, Master Gardener “The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life is a gardening memoir. You may recognize the author, Margaret Roach, as the former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine. Her up-state New York garden has been featured several times in that magazine. She left this high-powered position to work fulltime on her gardens. Within this book she shares her journey in that effort including her gardening wins and losses - made humble by mother nature and various animals, including woodchucks and deer to name a few. Her garden story is told both from a practical and spiritual perspective, therefore the use of the word ‘parable’ meaning: “a simple story used to illustrate a moral or spiritual lesson”. Roach’s memoir is broken into 4 parts or chapters, as she describes the ‘life’ of her garden. She begins with ‘Water (Winter), the crucial time period that the important work of planning the garden and purchasing the seeds begins. Within each chapter she includes sidebars where she shares her wisdom regarding the lessons she has learned over her 25 years as a gardener. Within this chapter is an amusing tale where she attempts to rescue frogs located within her garden ponds. The device meant to keep the occupants of the pond alive during the long, cold winter failed to work. So, she trudged out in the ice-cold darkness of her thigh high snow filled yard to be a savior to her beloved frogs. Quite an entertaining story follows. The next section is ‘Earth (spring)’, the third section is entitled ‘Fire (summer) and the fourth is ‘Wind (Autumn)’. Within each section she shares gardening lessons learned along the way that correspond to the evolution of the garden and how that relates to our changing selves. It is a truly delightful book and best experienced by reading slowly and thoughtfully. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Margaret Roach (1)

< Back Now Swaying in the Minnesota Breeze, It’s the UMN Duluth Developed Innovatrees (Poplar Variety) Mary Gadek, Master Gardener University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and give such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of landscape tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast-growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and furnish such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. Characteristics The poplar tree variety is a cross between native Eastern cottonwood and European black poplar. It has been naturally cross bred at University of Minnesota Duluth over 25 years. Landowners can use the tree for privacy screens, wildlife habitat, windbreaks, conservation plantings and firewood. Tree size: Growing 64% faster than similar varieties, the InnovaTree shoots up about 10 feet each year, reaching 35 feet in less than 5 years and a mature height of over 75 feet. Note: Because of its fast growth and aggressive root system, it is best not to plant near power lines, roadways or buildings. Seedless and Cottonless: Unlike standard cottonwood trees, it is cottonless. Leaf retention: Good late-season leaf retention, with yellow fall foliage. Disease Resistance: Resistant to stem canker and leaf disease Non-GMO Will not spread: InnovaTree does not spread by suckering; meaning, you will not have tiny trees growing up from its root system. It is not an invasive species risk. Growing Needs Minnesota hardy for zones 3-6 Light: Full sun Soil: Loves to grow in well-drained loam, sand loam, clay loam and light clay soils Moisture: Will tolerate occasional flooding and drought, but prefers moist, well-drained soil Nursery Locations For current nurseries offering the InnovaTree Poplar Variety, click on this link: https://innovatree.umn.edu/buy For additional information, including commercial applications, see: https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/fast-growing-tree and https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/frequently-asked-questions Photo credit: UMN.edu (1,3)