< Back How to Prepare Your Garden for Young Children Kristin Beardsley Schoenherr, Master Gardener Whether it’s children or grandchildren, nieces, nephews, or other little ones, it’s great to include them in the garden. Gardens are a place to grow fruits, vegetables, or flowers, and enjoy nature. Who better to enjoy gardens with than young children? But those little hands and minds can have a hard time if the garden is not designed with them in mind. This article will discuss how to design your garden considering the needs of little ones and how to prepare activities so they can be successful gardening and grow a joy for it. Whether it’s children or grandchildren, nieces, nephews, or other little ones, it’s great to include them in the garden. Gardens are a place to grow fruits, vegetables, or flowers, and enjoy nature. Who better to enjoy gardens with than young children? But those little hands and minds can have a hard time if the garden is not designed with them in mind. This article will discuss how to design your garden considering the needs of little ones and how to prepare activities so they can be successful gardening and grow a joy for it. Tools for planting and weeding: A little bucket and child sized trowel are perfect for weeding and planting. You can show your child how to dig a hole by putting the dirt into a bucket. Then place the bulb or seedling and pour the dirt back into the hole. Similarly, the set can be used for weeding by digging out the weeds and putting them in the bucket. Don’t forget to show the child where to dump the weeds. Planting seeds: Small children’s fine motor skills are just developing so it’s hard to hold and plant seeds. Putting the seeds in a little cup allows them to securely hold the seeds and choose one to plant. I also find that our daughter steals my kneeling pad, so I have a special little one for her to go get. Watering plants: Choose a little watering can that is small enough for your child to lift and carry independently when full. I like a sprinkle head for outdoor use. If possible, it’s really nice to have a way for your child to fill the watering can on their own as well. Harvesting: Harvest time is the best time! I find that children are likely to at least try the fruit and veggies they plant and harvest. Native strawberries are great ground-cover even in partial shade and provide tons of sweet little berries to pick and eat or freeze for the winter. Have a special little bowl to encourage more collecting and less eating, or collecting and eating. Dining : Don’t forget a sweet little spot to eat your delicious harvest. A Place for Everything and Everything in it’s Place: Have a place to store your child’s gardening supplies that they can reach and access on their own. When we keep this area nicely organized they know how to get their things and can be responsible for putting them away. Let’s be honest, my daughter doesn’t always put her things away on her own, but a consistent set-up will allow her to do this as she matures. We keep out child-sized tools needed for the current season. Here you can see her watering can, dish for seeds, kneeling mat, and gardening tote. The tote includes a child-sized metal trowel, fork, gardening gloves, and bucket. I did not put out the turtle labels that came with the set, and we bought her some better fitting gloves. She truly uses these tools to garden, something plastic and easily breakable would be frustrating. Other seasonal tools might include a rake for leaves in the fall or shovel for snow in the winter. A Children’s Garden: Some children and families enjoy having a designated space for a children’s garden. This can be a place for the child to make all their own choices. I find that children enjoy gardening the whole garden and don’t want to only garden in the children’s area. Little children benefit from quiet moments of independent observation and interaction in the garden. Children love little pathways and other things that make a garden fun like garden art and wind chimes. Consider including elements that are at their level. Gardens can be for playing as well! If children getting dirty stresses you out, have a clean-up plan that the children understand before they get started. We enjoy having a sand box, fairy garden, and swings in our garden as well. I can work while the children do what they enjoy. Photo credits: Kristin Beardsley Schoenherr (1 - 11)

< Back Manure – A Cautionary Tale Manure can benefit your garden in many ways but it also has negative consequences if used improperly. Read this article to learn how to use manure to reap its benefits without hurting your soil or plants. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener Gardening can take a toil on soil, as plants pull vital nutrients for growth and production of flowers, vegetables, and fruit. Another important factor to growing plants is the soil structure. You can address both soil structure and nutrient-deficiencies needed to maintain or even increase the ability to grow vigorous plants by adding manure. Manure is the waste products of animals and has many benefits. However, there are a number of cautions you need to be aware of before just dumping manure on your garden. Manure increases soil organic matter, which can help improve soil structure. Manure also helps improve sandy soil’s ability to hold water and drainage in clay soil. It slowly releases nutrients into the soil and can promote beneficial soil organisms’ growth ( Compost and soil organic matter: the more, the merrier? , Penn State Extension ). Acceptable types of manure for use in vegetable gardens include cow, horse, sheep, goat, llama, rabbit, and chicken/poultry. There are some additional precautions to take if you are going to use chicken/poultry manure that will be discussed later in this article. ( Using chicken manure, UMN-Extension ). Rabbit manure is a great source of manure, 'bunny honey' . Pig, dog, cat, and human waste should NEVER be used in gardens as they are more likely to contain parasites. Use of manure in gardens does require precautions, especially where and when you use fresh or ‘raw’ manure. The biggest risk is that fresh manure may include bacteria and other pathogens that can cause diseases in humans such as e.Coli, Salmonella, Campylobacter bacteria, and others. You can’t determine if an animal may be carrying a pathogen by looking at them or their waste. For this reason, it is critical to not use fresh manure around vegetables as these pathogens can be taken up into vegetable plant tissue through the soil and water. Rabbit manure is the exception because of its pelletized form and low risk of pathogens. If fresh manure is applied to areas where food is grown, nothing should be planted in that location for at least four (4) months for any food product whose edible portion has direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles. If the food product does not have direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles, then the timeframe is 90 days. ( USDA Organic Tipsheet: Manure in Organic Production Systems ). That means that you should not apply manure in the spring before planting unless you are only going to be planting late summer crops for fall harvest. ( Safely Using Manure, UW-Extension, Using Manure in the Home Garden, UW-Extension ). Early fall may be the best time for manure application. As noted above rabbit manure is the exception. It may be used ‘fresh’ and has many benefits over other types of manure including having four times the nutrients of horse and cow manure and twice the amount of chicken manure. Well composted chicken litter The best manure to use has been composted, which when done properly, can kill any harmful pathogens, stabilize the nutrients, and lower salts that are present. Composting manure, along with any bedding material or other substances, involves regular turning, aeration, and making sure the compost reaches specific temperatures for specific amounts of time. According to the USDA Organic Tipsheet , depending on how the composting is occurring, the manure must reach Temperatures between 131° F and 170° F and must be sustained for three days using an in-vessel or static aerated pile system. Temperatures between 131° F and 170° F and must be sustained for 15 days using a windrow composting system, during which period the materials must be turned a minimum of five times, and this period must be followed by an adequate curing period. Composting raw manure into manure that is safe to use may be difficult, but not impossible, to achieve by a home gardener. Achieving and maintaining the high temperatures is challenging in a home environment and turning and aerating the pile is a considerable commitment. Another consideration when using manure is you don’t know the specific amounts of nutrients and micronutrients you are adding. It varies by the type of animal waste and any additional materials such as bedding that might be mixed into it. This is important because adding the wrong level of nutrients may produce less desirable effects. For example, if manure was added around tomato plants, the nitrogen might promote growth of the plant which may decrease the energy the plant puts into producing the tomatoes. Purchasing fertilizer in some instances might be a better approach as you can select the amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium (N-P-K) you add to specific areas of your garden. Despite all these cautions, adding manure can be beneficial to the home garden by improving the soil structure, water holding capacity, and through the slow release of nutrients. With a little care, your plants will reap the benefits and grow and produce vigorously. References: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x-9vEKg0K5NLijaqmuC0t-SPJgj6NAQI/view https://blog-yard-garden-news.extension.umn.edu/2019/10/got-chickens-fall-is-good-time-to.html chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/ https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Manure%20in%20Organic%20Production%20Systems_FINAL.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/nutrient-management-specialty-crops/correct-too-much-compost-and-manure https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/bunny_honey_using_rabbit_manure_as_a_fertilizer https://extension.psu.edu/wise-use-of-manure-in-home-vegetable-gardens https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/safely-using-manure-garden/#:~:text=Many%20vegetable%20gardeners%20swear%20by,vegetables%20and%20cause%20human%20disease . https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/using-manure-in-the-home-garden/ Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Autumn Leaves Brynne Eisele, Master Gardener This page introduces books and fun activities that will help your child to understand why leaves change color and learn that leaves have some things in common with humans. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiQrG88OcmY Summer Green to Autumn Gold: Uncovering Leaves’ Hidden Colors , by Mia Posada, answers readers’ (ages 5-10) questions about why leaves change colors. It gives the science behind the many different colors of leaves and includes beautiful watercolor and collage art on every page. The author and illustrator reside in Golden Valley, MN! Fletcher and the Falling Leaves , by Julia Rawlinson, lets young readers (ages 1-5) follow Fletcher the fox cub as he discovers his favorite tree seems to be sick. Each day more leaves turn brown and fall to the ground. Fletcher is very worried for the tree until he finds a wonderful surprise on the first day of winter. Do For elementary aged children try these two very simple experiments that demonstrate the importance of trees and their leaves to our daily lives. It will also help them visualize the concept that plants and trees are alive just like us! 1. Do Leaves Breathe? Materials: Freshly picked leaf that is still green Bowl of water large enough to fit the leaf Rock or something to weigh down the leaf Instructions: Ask the child to observe the leaf. What do they see? Do they hear the leaf breathing? Fill the bowl with water and submerge the leaf in water using the rock to make sure the leaf is fully submerged. Place the bowl in a sunny location. Wait for a few hours then check on the leaf. You should see small bubbles forming on the leaf and edges of the bowl Explanation: Your child is observing part of the process of photosynthesis where oxygen is being expelled from the leaf. While the leaf doesn’t use lungs to breath as we do, it does similarly take in and release air. As humans we breathe in the oxygen expelled in our daily lives. Adapted from science-u.org 2. Do Leaves Sweat? Materials: Clear zip lock bag String or twist tie to secure the bag tightly Branch of leaves in the sun Instructions: Ask the child to observe the leaf. How does the leaf feel? Can they see the leaf sweating? Fit the plastic bag on the end of a branch which has several green leaves on it. Make sure your branch is in the sunlight for a few hours. Secure the bag tightly with the string or twist tie. One corner of the bag should be pointing down toward the ground so that the water can collect into one location. After a few hours, check the bag. You should see water pooled in the corner of the bag. Explanation: Your child is observing plant transpiration. This process can be explained to a child by comparing it to a human sweating and expelling water to cool down. Plant transpiration is crucial to our daily lives as it releases water into our atmosphere to be evaporated. Adapted from Kids Fun Science, Youtube channel Fall Leaf Scavenger Hunt For younger children around ages 2-5 set up a fall leaf scavenger hunt. Depending on the age, the child may need greater parental assistance. See below for some suggestions but feel free to add your own categories! Find a yellow leaf (or one with yellow on it) Find a green leaf (or one with green on it) Find a red leaf (or one with red on it) Find a brown leaf (or one with brown on it) Find a leaf with a whole in it Find a leaf with three points Find a leaf that has an oval shape Find a small leaf Find a big leaf

< Back Learning to Grow African Leafy Vegetables in Minnesota The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. This article identifies some native African vegetables and discusses an important plant breeding program started by the University of Minnesota and partnering with community members. BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. To address this problem, University of Minnesota students, led by Rex Bernardo, director of the Plant Breeding Center at the University, formed a Community Plant Breeding Team and partnered with community members and Hennepin County Master Gardeners to attempt to develop vegetable varieties that are better adapted to our climate. With input from the African and Asian communities, the group focused on four native African species: amaranth, spider wisp, jute mallow and Ethiopian mustard . These species have not received significant breeding attention and seeds of these species are not available commercially in the United States. Jute mallow or Molokhi (Xoexhoeua olitorious) originated in Egypt. It is filled with nutrients and has been used in traditional medicine. Spider wisp , or chinsaga (Cleome gynandra) is also nutrient-rich and is found in dishes in Kenya and parts of Asia. It is drought tolerant and self-seeding. Amaranth , or mchicha, emboga, or quintoniles. Its’ leaves and seeds are eaten throughout the world, generally in dry climates. Ethiopian mustard (Brassica carinata), also known as Gomenzer, Yehabesha Gomen and Hamli Adri, originated mainly in the Ethiopian highlands. It has been eaten as a leafy vegetable and oilseed crop since ancient times. It is a candidate for use as a clean energy source. The project necessitated engagement and input from community members as well as the expertise of specialists in agronomy and horticulture. This article highlights how the group went about engaging with the community to produce adaptations of their target vegetables. The article, titled, “ Lessons from a student-let breeding effort on leafy African vegetables in Minnesota ” also provides detailed information about the native African vegetables studied. The group hopes to release their first cultivar of a leafy African vegetable in the next few years. It hopes that its work can serve as a model for other groups who might wish to expand to the Asian and Latin American communities. If you are interested in exploring other native African plants that can be grown in Minnesota, this article lists several plants, some of which will be familiar to you, including: Amaranth (see above), Okra, African Eggplant, Yams, Cassava, Taro Leaves, Waterleaf, Ethiopian Kale, Bitter Leaf, African Cabbage, Cowpeas, African Nightshade, Jute Leaves (see above), African Cucumber and Hibiscus Plant. For more information about growing native African vegetables, refer to the sources below and others at the University of Minnesota Extension website . Sources: Crop Science/Volume 65, Issue 3, “Lessons from a student-led breeding effort on leafy African vegetables in Minnesota, May 14, 2025 University of Minnesota Extension, “Exploring African Plants, October 18, 2023 University of Minnesota Extension, “Growing Staple Vegetables from Around the World in Minnesota,” 2024 Ethiopian Mustard (Brassica carinata A. Braun) as an Alternative Energy Source and Sustainable crop; https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/12/18/7492 University of Minnesota Extension; https://mglobal.umn.edu/immigrants-minnesota-often-crave-taste-home-u-m-researchers-breeding-african-crops-minnesota https://www.fifteen.net/vegetables/african/ Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), HDPI https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/12/18/7492 (3), Wikipedia (4)

< Back Groundnut (Apios americana): A Nutty Sweet Treat This month, Master Gardener Jim Lakin continues his series on native vines by profiling the American Groundnut. This vine not only produces interesting flowers but also both edible seeds and tubers. Historically, the groundnut has been a significant part of the Native American and European pioneer diet. Read this article to learn more about how you can grow this interesting vine and enjoy its seeds and tubers. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener One thing plants and animals have in common; they don’t like to be eaten. Plants, in consequence, have synthesized a staggering number of toxins, emetics, thorns and brambles to discourage their ingestion. Thus, what a delight to encounter an edible native perennial vine— groundnut . Both the tubers and the seeds are edible but should be cooked first. Some nasty enzymes need to be denatured by the heat. As you might expect, groundnut has been a significant part of the Native American diet over the centuries. Likewise, it was an important component of the diet of the early European pioneers. Inexplicably, however its popularity has declined as agribusiness has developed more profitable crops to drop into the commercial maw. groundnut tubers and flowers American groundnut is known alternately as hopniss, Indian potato, hodoimo, America hodoimo, cinnamon vine, potato bean or vine potato. It is hardy from Zone 4 through 9, so it will do well in southern and central Minnesota. Indeed, American groundnut grows wild from Eastern Canada down south to Florida and west to Colorado. American groundnut is the North American equivalent to the South American potato. However, it is a perennial flowering vine that sends out numerous tubers. Although the entire plant is edible, the tubers are prized, even today, by foragers. They have a nutty, slightly sweet flavor. They are cooked pretty much like potatoes. About a 30-minute boil, peeled or unpeeled, usually does the trick. photo shows the young groundnut vine Although rarely grown commercially in the United States, there is quite a bit of cultivation in northern Japan. Apparently, it is similar to a native Japanese Apios yet more amenable to commercial production. Growing American groundnut is fairly straightforward. You can plant tubers, similar to planting potatoes. In the spring, place them about two inches below the surface and about two feet apart. Water heavily. In about two weeks you should see sprouting. Provide support for the vigorously growing vine. As American groundnut is a member of the pea family (Fabaceae), it will fix nitrogen and replenish the soil. You should be patient, however. The initial crop of tubers is usually fairly scant and takes two years for the plant to firmly establish itself. However, your patience will be amply rewarded that second year with a bumper crop of nutty sweet Apios americana ! Here’s a helpful reference for more information on cultivation: https://www.gardenmyths.com/how-to-grow-harvest-and-eat-american-groundnuts/ Photo Credits: J. St. John, University of Missouri (1), https://ar.inspired pencil.com/pictures-2023/groundnut-plant (2)

< Back Rhubarb is a Welcome Spring Vegetable Margie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable that grows well in Minnesota. If you grow rhubarb in your garden, it will soon be ready to eat and enjoy in many different recipes. This article provides both useful and fun information about this traditional, well-loved plant. If you grow rhubarb in your garden, it will soon be ready eat and enjoy in many different recipes. This article provides both useful and fun information about this traditional, well-loved plant. Rhubarb is variously defined as: Any of a genus ( Rheum ) of Asian plants of the buckwheat family having large leaves with thick petioles often used as food The tart, succulent, usually pink or red petioles of rhubarb used especially in pies and preserves The dried rhizome and roots of any of various rhubarbs grown chiefly in temperate parts of China and used in folk medicine especially as a laxative, diuretic, and ulcer treatment A heated dispute or controversy, especially in baseball Rhubarb is often called the “Pie Plant,” because it’s frequently used, alone or in combination with other fruit, in pies. Some spices used with rhubarb are ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Rhubarb Custard pie The origin of culinary rhubarb is unknown. It was grown in China and Europe before the 18th century and was used as medicine (see definition 3 above). Rhubarb stalks are a fair source of potassium, are 95 percent water and have no fat, sodium, or cholesterol, and are high in vitamin C, dietary fiber, and calcium. The stalks have some oxalic acid; the leaves, however, have a high concentration - which ties up calcium. This can cause kidney stones and aggravate gout and rheumatoid arthritis. According to Iowa State University Extension and Outreach , the roots of plants don’t easily absorb oxalic acid, so composting rhubarb leaves is safe. Rhubarb damaged by severe cold should not be eaten, as it may be high in oxalic acid , which can migrate to the stalks. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-rhubarb Minnesota provides the necessary 7-9 weeks of cold (<37°) weather to provide optimal growth. Plant rhubarb in well-drained soil. Different varieties have different levels of tartness and fiber. The plant will develop a large crown underground, this can be split to create more plants. Wait until the second season before harvesting; if you started from seed, wait until the third season. new Rhubarb leaves Begin picking stalks as soon as they have reached their full length. Depending on the variety, they may be only 12 inches long, or as long as two feet. To pick rhubarb, hold the stalk firmly, pull and twist. Do not use a knife to cut the stalks from the plant; it can carry diseases from plant to plant, and the remaining stalk can be a point of entry for other pests. Spring rhubarb doesn't need peeling, simply trim and wash. The harvest season for rhubarb lasts until the end of June. Until then, pick as many stalks as you wish. After harvest allow the plant to keep all of its leaves, to build up its reserves of energy for the next year. Rhubarb does have a number of pests and diseases to watch out for. slugs, snails and leaf beetles, are pests you should watch for In a wet year or in a poorly drained site, root-rotting fungi can affect the plant. Start over in a new spot if this happens. Rhubarb curculio damage. Alternate host can be thistles For help diagnosing problems, visit the UMN Extension diagnostic site: 'What's wrong with my plant? ' Keep your rhubarb healthy and it will reward you with many tasty recipes to enjoy. Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (2,3,4,5,6), H. Allen Smith (1)

< Back Cover Crops Cover crops? What are they and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. Dig into this article to learn more about why and how to incorporate cover crops in your garden. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener What is a cover crop and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. They can be considered a living mulch because of their thick growth. Other benefits of growing cover crops include reducing erosion, maintaining soil structure, and managing weeds. As a ‘green manure’, cover crops serve to provide organic matter and nutrients back into the soil. Cover crops can support a wide range of soil microorganisms and importantly, given the drought conditions of the past few years, they help the soil retain water. Cover crops can be legumes such as vetch, clover, beans, and peas; grasses/cereals such as annual ryegrass, oats, rapeseed, winter wheat, and winter rye; and buckwheat. Selection will depend upon when you are planting your cover crop, where the cover crop will be planted in your garden, and your purpose in planting, e.g., add nitrogen, suppress weeds. The UMN Extension website provides numerous resources to help you make the best selection for your garden (see references at the end of this article). There is also a comparison guide of different cover crop options and information on seeding rates, ( Comparisons and Planting Rates ). Figure 1 below provides a snapshot of the table that can help you make the best selection, with planting times. Figure 1: Planting timing and seeding rate When selecting which cover crop to grow, you also may want to consider a few key factors. If you choose a cover crop that dies over the winter, it will be easy to work into the soil in the spring. If you select a plant that will survive Minnesota’s winters, you will need to have a way to kill the plant and then work it into the soil. You will also want to carefully consider the various benefits to growing a cover crop and determine which ones are of greatest importance. Some cover crops provide pollinators with food, help prevent weeds from growing, prevent erosion, or add nitrogen. Figure 2: Selecting cover crops based on effectiveness of providing various benefits When to plant cover crops is the next major decision. In Minnesota, our growing areas often sit empty after the harvest has occurred. Cover crops can be sown in early spring as a cool season crop in an area where you might plant tomatoes or pumpkins, which need warmer soil and temperatures to grow. If you grow cool season vegetables like lettuce or spinach, you could grow a cover crop during the summer months when it is too hot for these plants. Cover crops can also be grown in late summer after harvesting early vegetables that might be done by August. Late Fall before freezes occur is another option, once all the vegetables beds have been emptied. Figure 3, from the University of Minnesota Extension ( Cover crop selection for vegetable growers ), outlines these plant timing options, accompanied by illustrations of vegetables that might be grown before or after planting a cover crop. Please note the timing in the graph is approximate. You can find seeds for cover crops at garden stores, farm stores, and vegetable seed catalogs. To derive the full benefit, you will usually want to plant your cover crops densely, unlike the usual vegetable garden practices of spacing seeds. You will want to fertilize and water your cover crop to encourage a thick growth of biomass. You then work this back into the soil, adding organic matter. References Cover Crops and green manures in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/cover-crops-and-green-manures Cover crop selection for vegetable growers https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Cover crops improve soil health, even on a small scale https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/cover-crops-improve-soil-health-even-small-scale Cover crop comparisons and planting rates https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops/cover-crop-options#cover-crop-guides-and-resources-2174260 PHoto credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Just for My Valentine Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Joy Johnson shares how to use those tomatoes that you saved from September’s harvest. And, make something sweet for your “sweetie” on Valentine’s Day. Joy shares her recipe for Sweetheart scones in this article. It’s February in Minnesota and nothing is growing in our gardens right now. If you’re anything like me, back in September you had a bumper crop of tomatoes. I freeze a lot of tomatoes for use in soups, stews, chili and minestrone during the winter months. I also make a lot of tomato juice and freeze that too. To make tomato juice in the fall, wash core and thickly slice your fresh tomatoes. Put them in a large pot and cook them over medium heat, stirring occasionally until they are completely soft and falling apart. Then put the contents of the pot through a hand food mill. That easily separates the skins and seeds from the pulp and juice. I add one teaspoon of salt to each quart of juice. Then I fill quart sized freezer baggies, lay them flat on a cookie sheet and put them into the freezer. Once they are frozen you can remove the cookie sheet and stack the frozen baggies. Here is a simple recipe for a delicious tomato soup . It really hits the spot on a cold winter day and pairs wonderfully with a grilled cheese sandwich. Because it’s red, it makes a fun Valentine’s Day lunch addition. Cream of Tomato Soup Saute: 2 T. butter 2 T. onion, chopped Blend In: 3 T. Flour 2 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. petter Dash of garlic salt, basil, oregano, thyme Remove from heat. Gradually stir in: 2 c. tomato juice Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil 1 minute. Stir hot tomato mixture into cold milk: It is VERY IMPORTANT to pour the hot tomato mixture into the cold milk, if you pour the cold milk into the hot tomato mixture it will curdle. 2 c. cold milk Heat almost to boiling and serve. Sweetheart Scones Another recipe for Valentine’s Day that the kids can help with are scones. They are easy to make. You can add craisins, raisins, dried blueberries, dried cherries or dried cranberries. (A little grated orange rind is great with the cranberries.) 2 ½ cups flour (you can use part whole wheat) 1/3 cup sugar 1 T. baking powder ¾ tsp. salt 6 T. butter 1 egg ½ cup milk (you can use cows, almond, rice or reconstituted powdered milk) ¾ cup cranberries, cherries or blueberries, dried Top with 2 tsp. milk and 1 tsp. sugar before baking Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Stir. With a pastry blender or fork cut in butter until mixture represents course crumbs. Mix eggs with fork in a bowl and then add ½ cup of milk and blend. Pour egg and milk mixture into flour mixture and toss with a fork until mixture holds together. Stir in cranberries or your choice of berries. Form dough into a ball and gently knead on a lightly floured board five times. Roll dough gently in to ¾ inch thickness and use a large heart-shaped cookie cutter or a knife to cut 8-10 heart shapes. Before baking, brush each heart with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake at 425 degrees for 12-15 minutes until lightly brown. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson

< Back Is it Time for Houseplants? Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern It’s December. Everything in the garden is dead or hibernating. Assuming you did your fall clean-up in the yard, cleaned and sharpened your tools for next year and planted your spring bulbs, there is nothing to do in the garden. Feeling lost? Maybe it’s time to consider houseplants. There are many attractive flowering and foliage plants that are happy to grow indoors, even in low light. It is an opportunity to continue gardening in December and onwards, albeit on the smaller scale. Some of the plants you might want to consider during the winter months ahead are listed below. For an excellent resource for care instructions for all of these plants, check out this University of Minnesota site . Possibly the most famous of the easy-to-care-for, low-light plants is Snake Plant (Dracaena trifasciata - formerly Sansevieria). A foliage plant with variegated leaves that can grow from 4 inches to 4 feet tall, snake plant is also drought tolerant. Its flowers resemble small lilies and are very fragrant. None of mine ever bloomed in my lifetime or theirs, but even without flowers the snake plant can make a dramatic statement in your house. Snake Plant Another easy-to-care-for low light plant is the ZZ (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) . So beloved by commercial nurserymen that they named it ‘Plant of the Year’ in 2002, the ZZ is a slow-growing plant with solid green foliage that reaches between 1 to 3 feet tall. It has natural glossy leaves that are so shiny some have remarked that they “appear polished”. ZZ is also drought tolerant. In fact, it can go 3 to 4 months without watering! It will grow in any well drained or bark based potting soil. People who like to tell you how bad they are at raising plants may say they killed one, but unless they overwatered it, that is almost impossible. The ZZ thrives on neglect - after planting it, NEGLECT IT! Would you like an indoor palm for a gloomy corner of your home? Well, you can have one. In fact, you can have two! Neanthe Bella Palm or Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) , is a slow-growing palm that can reach several feet in height. It likes to be slightly dry, so be careful not to overwater it. Lady Palm or Rhapis Excelsa requires a bit of bright but indirect light and is an extremely slow-growing palm although it can grow to 15 feet tall and wide over the course of several years. And there are more! Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) is a striking plant with green foliage edged in red or pink. Some cultivars can reach 2 to 3 feet in height. They perform admirably in conditions too dark for most other tropical plants. Chinese Evergreen tolerates moist to slightly dry soil in-between watering. Chinese Evergreen Unsurpassable for dependable, dark green foliage in very lowlight conditions, Cast Iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has glossy, coarse-textured leaves and grows in large, leafy clumps. It flowers periodically throughout the year. Although Cast Iron plant is susceptible to leaf-spotting diseases it is very resistant to insect pests. Variegated Cast Iron Plant And let us not forget flowering plants. If you are a fan of tulips, daffodils, crocus and hyacinths, you can create a spring garden for winter viewing because these spring bulbs can be grown indoors. Called “forcing”, spring bulbs will grow indoors if you give them 12-13 weeks of cold. (Click here for an article on growing bulbs indoors). African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) are low maintenance, flowering house plants that are easy to grow, even in low light. With proper care they will flower reliably several times a year. The elegant Peace Lily is another flowering plant that is easy to grow. It thrives in low to medium light and requires minimal watering. It also improves indoor air quality by removing common toxins and pollutants like formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from the air. Peace Lily NOTE : Peace Lily leaves, if eaten in large quantities, are poisonous to humans, cats and dogs. The exotic flowering hibiscus is also easy to grow and makes a beautiful houseplant as long as you meet its requirements. Native to Mexico, poinsettias are a flowering plant available around the holidays. Their colorful bracts, which look like petals, come in a variety of colors - red, white, cream, and pink - and the bracts can be single or double. Although usually used for decorating during the Christmas holidays, poinsettias are also attractive as green plants throughout the year. Click here for information on growing poinsettias indoors. Poinsettias PLANT SOURCES : Nurseries and big box stores are sources for houseplants but there are others. If you are looking to make an impact on a budget, consider some non-traditional sources for plants. Grocery stores are often overlooked as plant sources. Although noted for selling poinsettias during the holiday season, grocery stores also periodically sell large foliage plants at reasonable prices. In addition, that purveyor of all, Amazon , also sells reasonably potted plants. Other sources are plant society sales, which you can Google, and county chapters of MN Extension (Dakota County’s plant sale is in the spring). One of my favorite sources for plants is IKEA , where I purchased a 2 foot snake plant for $20 less than a year ago (it is now almost as tall as I am!). IKEA also sells other large houseplants very reasonably. PLANT CARE : Now that you have purchased your houseplants, you need to keep them ALIVE! The most common killer of indoor plants is overwatering or TMC (too much care). Know your plants’ requirements and follow them. Drought tolerant plants, such as snake plant and ZZ, can go a month or more without watering. Watering them more frequently will kill them. If you can’t keep track of when to water drought-tolerant plants, water them on a schedule - the first or last of every month, for example - or you can test the soil for dryness or moisture. Other houseplant killers are drafts from heating systems or air conditioners. Place your plants away from these. And don’t forget that fireplaces and appliances are heat sources too. Placing you plant next to a fireplace may look attractive but probably not for long. Too much or too little light can also kill houseplants or make them look “leggy”. If a plant requires bright sun and you have none, don’t try to grow it. Match your indoor lighting to your plant. There are multiple low and medium light plants, some of which we have listed in this article. As dismal as December and winter in general can be, houseplants can bring color and greenery indoors and keep your hand in. If you fit their requirements to the light you have available and provide good care, houseplants will reward you. They will allow you to wait out the winter cheerfully until you can get back into your outdoor garden. REFERENCES “Lighting for Indoor plants and starting seeds”, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#low-light-plants-1622110 Bradly, Nicole and McAlpine, Lynn, “31 Best Low-Light Indoor Plants to Brighten Up Your Home”, Better Homes and Gardens , https://www.bhg.com/gardening/houseplants/projects/indoor-plants-for-low-light/ Brown, Deborah L. “Growing Citrus Plants Indoors”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/growing-citrus-indoors Weisenhorn,Julie, “Growing Bulbs Indoors”: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors ). Weisenhorn, Julie, “African Violets”: https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/african-violets “ASPIDISTRA ELATIOR CAST IRON PLANT”, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP053 “AGLAONEMA MODESTUM: CHINESE EVERGREEN”, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP025 “Hibiscus”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/hibiscus Neanthe Bella Palm, Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans), http.gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/outreach/plant_id/flowers_indoor/neanthe_bella_palm.html Rhapis Excelsa or Lady Palm, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP501 Weisenhorn, Julie, “Growing and caring for poinsettia”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/poinsettia “Spathipyllum”, https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/ Weisenhorn, Julie, “Watering houseplants”, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/watering-houseplantsSpathiphyllum” , https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/ “CULTURAL GUIDELINES FOR COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION OF INTERIORSCAPE ZZ (ZAMIOCULCAS ZAMIIFOLIA), https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP252 “ZZ Plant”, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/zz-plant.html Photo Credit: North Carolina Extension (1), Flickr (2), Susan Ball (3), Wikipedia (4)

< Back Wild Rice (Manoonmin): Minnesota’s Official State Grain Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, please click here. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, read on. Wild rice is called Manoomin (“good berry/seed”) by the Anishinaabe. The French settlers called it “folle avoine” (fool’s or wild oats). English settlers called it wild rice or Indian Rice. For the Anishinaabe, wild rice represents spiritual significance, cultural identity and connection to the land. Wild rice also provides nutritional and economic value for the tribe. Wild rice, an aquatic grass, grows naturally in peat and clay-soils of shallow, slow moving waters within rivers and lakes. Some Anishinaabe still harvest wild rice by canoe using flailing/winnowing/knocker sticks to capture the reeds and then knock the ripened grain into the bottom of the canoe. Grain that doesn’t reach the canoe is seed for the following year. But the manual work does not stop there. Manual harvesting also includes: Parching—heating the rice to dry it out and loosen the hulls while not burning the rice Dancing – traditionally the rice was danced upon to thrash the hulls. Nowadays, a rice husking machine called a trasher may be used Winnowing – refers to separating the hulls and chaff from the grain. Traditionally, this is done by using birch bark bowls and the wind carries away the hulls, leaving the heavier grain in the bowls Finishing – involves cleaning and sorting the rice either by hand or with machines. Today, most of the wild rice you see in stores is cultivated. In the 1950s, entrepreneur farmers began experimenting with growing techniques by creating flooded paddies. They then modified harvesting machinery to be used after draining the paddies. Minnesota is now one of the largest producers of wild rice and harvests 5 -15 million pounds annually on 15,000 acres! The three areas where you see the most cultivated rice being grown in Minnesota are: Clearbrook/Gonvick, Kalliher/Waskish, and Aitkin/Deer River. Of note, California is also a major commercial producer with smaller amounts grown in Canada, Wisconsin, Oregon, and Idaho. Regardless of where grown, cultivated wild rice fields serve as a great resource for wildlife. Overall, wild rice is important in Minnesota food traditions in both the native and European-American communities. Wild rice is high in protein, fiber, potassium and phosphorus and is an excellent source of B vitamins. It can be used in soups, casseroles, breads, and meats to name just a few. And did we mention that wild rice is delicious?! https://www.7generations.org/how-to-harvest-and-prepare-wild-rice-manoomin/ https://plpa.cfans.umn.edu/news/castellmillerwildrice https://wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/sites/wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/files/2020-11/Ecological%20importance_11_13_20_jak.pdf https://corn.aae.wisc.edu/Crops/WildRice.aspx Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database, https://wildrice.umn.edu/grants-and-projects (1) University of Minnesota, https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/resources (2) Lisa Olson (3)

< Back Now Swaying in the Minnesota Breeze, It’s the UMN Duluth Developed Innovatrees (Poplar Variety) Mary Gadek, Master Gardener University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and give such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of landscape tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast-growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and furnish such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. Characteristics The poplar tree variety is a cross between native Eastern cottonwood and European black poplar. It has been naturally cross bred at University of Minnesota Duluth over 25 years. Landowners can use the tree for privacy screens, wildlife habitat, windbreaks, conservation plantings and firewood. Tree size: Growing 64% faster than similar varieties, the InnovaTree shoots up about 10 feet each year, reaching 35 feet in less than 5 years and a mature height of over 75 feet. Note: Because of its fast growth and aggressive root system, it is best not to plant near power lines, roadways or buildings. Seedless and Cottonless: Unlike standard cottonwood trees, it is cottonless. Leaf retention: Good late-season leaf retention, with yellow fall foliage. Disease Resistance: Resistant to stem canker and leaf disease Non-GMO Will not spread: InnovaTree does not spread by suckering; meaning, you will not have tiny trees growing up from its root system. It is not an invasive species risk. Growing Needs Minnesota hardy for zones 3-6 Light: Full sun Soil: Loves to grow in well-drained loam, sand loam, clay loam and light clay soils Moisture: Will tolerate occasional flooding and drought, but prefers moist, well-drained soil Nursery Locations For current nurseries offering the InnovaTree Poplar Variety, click on this link: https://innovatree.umn.edu/buy For additional information, including commercial applications, see: https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/fast-growing-tree and https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/frequently-asked-questions Photo credit: UMN.edu (1,3)

< Back A Cinderella Eggplant Recipe Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Fall is here, and Joy Johnson’s garden is harvested. She picked and stored her veggies with the best intentions to use them all at their peak of ripeness. But when she found a long, skinny eggplant that she forgot about in the bottom drawer of her refrigerator, she made sure not to waste it. Read Joy’s hearty eggplant recipe that tastes great. Fall is here, my garden is harvested. I pick and store my veggies with the best intentions to use them all at their peak of ripeness. Then about 3 weeks later I find one or two that I forgot about in the bottom drawer of my refrigerator. This year it was a long skinny eggplant. I can’t stand to waste anything, so here’s a hearty recipe that tastes great. My husband asked me for three days after I made it, if I’d written it down so I wouldn’t forget what I’d done. He would like me to make it again, and that’s saying something since he has often vowed, he doesn’t like eggplant. Eggplant Chicken Layers with a Crunchy Crust Ingredients: 1 large egg plant or two 2 large chicken breasts ½ cup breadcrumbs ½ cup chopped walnuts 6 Tablespoons Olive Oil 2 cups tomatoes, I used mostly Cherry tomatoes, but sliced one large also to make enough 2 Tablespoons + 1 Tsp minced garlic 2 Tablespoons dill seed 3 Tablespoons dried parsley ½ cup grated cheddar cheese ½ cup grated Romano cheese Process: 1. Adjust two racks to the top and bottom position of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with foil. 2. Pierce the eggplants all over with a fork, and place on the foil-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil. Roast on the top rack until completely soft when pierced with a paring knife, 1 hour. 3. Meanwhile, toss the grape tomatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds pepper. Spread on a small baking sheet and roast in the same oven until the tomatoes are soft and wrinkled, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. 4. Put the chicken breast in a covered baking dish and bake it at the same time as the eggplant and tomatoes. Let it cool, then slice into thick pieces. Lay them in the bottom of an oiled 2-quart baking dish 5. Mix together the breadcrumbs, walnuts, about one teaspoon garlic, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Drizzle in 3 tablespoons olive oil and mix until the mixture starts to clump. Reserve. 6. When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, halve them and scoop the soft flesh into the bowl with the tomatoes. Discard the skins and stems. 7. Using a fork or spoon, mash the eggplant into smaller bite-sized pieces. (It's okay if the tomatoes get mashed in the process.) Add the garlic, dill and parsley, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Check for seasoning and add more salt, if needed. 8. Spread the eggplant tomato mixture over the sliced chicken breast pieces in the casserole dish. 9. Sprinkle cheddar and Romano cheese on top 10. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture on top 11. Bake about 30-35 minutes until the top is golden brown This was truly a garden to kitchen meal! I served it with homemade chunky cinnamon applesauce, with a sprinkling of a few late golden raspberries, home grown yellow beans, and homemade bread and butter pickles. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)