< Back Native Grasses for the Home Landscape Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Native grasses, sedges and flowers can be stunning at any scale; from vast prairie to small garden. In addition to the visual appeal, they provide essential habitat for many native insects and birds. The vegetation of the mesic prairie ecosystems that once covered much of southern and western Minnesota included a profusion of flowering plants and grasses. These resilient plants adapted to survive cold winters, hot summers, flood and drought and are still excellent choices for most of Minnesota. This article shares the benefits of and considerations for making native grasses a part of your landscape. Benefits of Native Grasses Long lived perennials Drought tolerant and soil stabilizers; due to deep root systems Enhanced soil; fibrous roots slough off and break down into organic matter Food source for wildlife; butterflies, skippers, birds Shelter for native insects, including butterflies, moths and bees Structural; support other plants Competitive with weeds Characteristics of Native Grasses Primarily warm season grasses; grow in late spring and flower in the hot summer Either clump or running growth habit Wind pollinated; flowers are small, do not need to attract pollinators Arrangement and branching patterns of florets in the seedhead (aka grass inflorescence) determine how grasses are identified, named, and classified Clump (Blue Grama) Inflorescence (Side Oats Grama) Design considerations for your site: What are your goals? Are there any restrictions at your site? What are your water and soil conditions? Some grasses are more suited to sandy, dry, high ground while some tolerate more wet conditions. Do you prefer a formal or informal design? A formal garden generally takes more space so the plants can show their full shape and allow for layering of heights from front to back. Formal (Noerenberg Memorial Gardens) Informal (Mendota Heights Victoria Road) Do you prefer a mix of textures and shapes or a uniform look? The clump form grows outward slowly so is less aggressive and good for mixes while the running growth habit is beneficial if you want a single grass to fill in a space for a functional purpose, for example to stabilize a slope or create a mow-able lawn. Short to medium height grasses are suited to locations with limited space where visibility and minimal spreading is desirable. Preferred grasses are generally shorter, of clump form, include visual interest from color and/or interesting seed heads, and mix well with low growing prairie flowers. Prairie Dropseed is widely adapted to soils ranging from dry, sandy and rock outcrops to low, wet mesic habits. It is an elegant clump form, at 2-4’ height. The nativar “tara’ is shorter in form at 24-30”. See Reference #1 for more information. Prairie Dropseed - fine foliage and inflorescence in summer Little Bluestem is an iconic species of Minnesota prairies that prefers loose, well-drained soil. Grows in clump form, at 2-4’ high. Host plant for several native butterflies, skippers. Showy, bright red in fall with shiny silver seedheads. Little Bluestem - bluish foliage in summer Blue Grama does well in dry, sand to loam soil, not clay. Clump form at height of 12-30”.Horizontal seed heads provide interest. See Reference #1 for more information. Side Oats Grama is related, a bit taller at 2-3’ height, different inflorescence. Junegrass does well in very dry, sandy soils. It is short, compact and upright at 2-3’ and mixes well with low-growing prairie flowers. A cool season grass; grows in early spring, flowers and sets seed late spring or early summer. Tall Native Grasses are generally not recommended for home gardens as they may overtake flowers over time but they can be a feature, screen or backdrop for other plants where more space is available and/or height is desirable. Big Bluestem is found throughout Minnesota. Grows in sand, loam, clay soil. It is tall at 8’, upright and open. It tends to self-sow and dominate and is subject to ‘lodging’ (falling over). Several nativars with different growing habits and color are available. See Reference #1 for more information. Indian Grass is found throughout Minnesota and does well in dry to moist soils (sand, loam, clay) with a height of 5-7’. It is medium aggressive and tends to self sow. It has a good upright form with golden seedheads, looks great with little bluestem and medium to tall flowers at the back of a border or garden. If you haven’t considered native grasses for your landscape before, it may be time to reconsider. Native grasses can be a stunning addition to your pollinator friendly garden. References Benefits of Native Grasses ; explained in three short informative videos by University of MN Extension Professor and Horticulturist Mary Meyer. On the same page as above; Free downloadable book “Gardening with Native Grasses in Cold Climates” by Diane M. Harem and Mary Hockenberry Meyer, includes information on grasses and flowers that together provide for the complete lifecycle of one or more Lepidoptera. UMN Extension Planting and maintaining a prairie garden . Numerous links on selecting Native Plants . Book “The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants” by Neil Diboll & Hilary Cox, copyright 2023, the University of Chicago Press. DNR Mesic Prairie . Native Plant Encyclopedia ; focus is on lakeshore management but also a way to look up distribution of native plants in the state. Minnesota Wildflowers ; a guide to the flora of MN. Sites to visit Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Specialty Gardens ; Ornamental Grass Collection. Current Projects at Dakota County Parks . Noerenberg Memorial Gardens in Wayzata. Many native and other grasses in a formal garden setting. Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1-7)

< Back Hydroponics at Home Have you heard of the hydroponic method of growing plants but thought is sounded too difficult to try at home? Hydroponics is a method of growing plants using a water-based nutrient solution rather than soil. Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Hydroponics growing systems can seem daunting given what we may have seen or know about commercial and large-scale hydroponics; but at-home hydroponics systems can be quite simple and rewarding. When growing hydroponically, you have year-round growing potential, limited disease and insect pressure, no messy soil and even increased and quicker yields than when growing plants in soil. The most accessible hydroponics system for the at-home grower is called the “Deep Water Culture” method. This method consists of a container, water with nutrients and a support system for your plants. This method can utilize either a passive form of aeration (also sometimes referred to as the “Kratky method” due to research done on the concept at the University of Hawaii in the 1980s) or an active form of aeration involving a pump or other method of mechanical water circulation. More information about all forms and elements of deep water culture can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. The basics elements for starting your own at-home hydroponics system are as follows: Container : The container you choose should be opaque, clean and made of food-safe ingredients. The size depends on the mature size of your plants or how many plants you will grow in one system. The lid will be important as it will hold the net pots the plants will grow in and keep them suspended above the water. Some ideas for containers include a 5 gallon bucket with appropriately-sized holes drilled in the lid or even a recycled pasta sauce jar (the lid is the perfect diameter to hold a standard net pot) covered in an opaque material such as thick felt or foam craft sheets. Container and growing medium: The most common type of container for your plant when using the Deep Water Culture method is a net pot. It is exactly what it sounds like: a plastic pot with holes that will hold the plant and growing medium, but also allow the root system to grow through it to reach the water and nutrients below in the container. There are many options for growing mediums in a hydroponic system, including rock wool, coconut coir, hydration, pumice or perlite. Whatever medium you choose, ensure it is clean by soaking it in water for 24 hours before transplanting your seedlings into it. Light : Most at-home indoor hydroponics systems will require supplemental lighting-especially in winter. Water : The first and most important element of your hydroponic water is its pH. Water should be tested for its pH levels both before and after adding nutrients. The ideal pH of hydroponic growing water is between 5.4 and 7. The second most important element of your hydroponic water is the maintenance of appropriate levels in your container. In a passive system there needs to be an air gap between the water and the beginning of the plants’ root system. The air gap is where the plants get oxygen. Generally, after the first filling—in which the water should just touch the bottom of the net pot—water should only cover up to half of the root system. Any more than this and the plants may die. Nutrients: Because only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are available to plants in a hydroponic system, supplemental nutrients must be added to the water. Nutrient mixes specifically for hydroponic use are easy to find and come in many varieties. Plants to try and seed starting : The plants that do best in indoor hydroponic systems are lettuces, greens and herbs. When selecting seeds for your system, look for a hydroponics-friendly logo or signifier that many seed companies use. Seeds can be started in plugs of growing medium that will then be transplanted to the net pots when their roots peek out of the bottom. In addition to growing hydroponically indoors, hobby gardeners can grow many crops hydroponically outdoors in the summer. Other more advanced hydroponics options exist that can be adapted to home use as well. More information on outdoor hydroponics and advanced hydroponics systems such as nutrient film or drip systems can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. This page has links to external and researched sources of information as well. If the supply resources and information available on the internet is overwhelming, there are several companies in the Twin Cities metro that can provide in-person guidance to get your own at-home hydroponics system started; for example: Ecogarden Supply ; St. Paul and Greener Gardens; Richfield. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Joanna Kapke (2)

< Back The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees By Douglas W. Tallamy, Timber Press, Portland, OR, 2021 Oak trees. Who doesn’t love this bold and majestic tree species in our landscape. In addition to their beauty, oak trees contribute mightily to the health of our environment. To learn more about the mighty oaks, read Douglas Tallamy’s excellent book, ”The Nature of Oaks.” Reviewed by Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Did you know that the seeds we religiously put out for the birds each winter provide scant nourishment for most species? A few, such as doves and finches, are granivores and do just fine. Most birds, however, are insectivores and depend on this supplementation even in winter. So where do all our avian friends get “three hots” in the cold months? Surprisingly, a substantial portion of their winter diet comes from caterpillar stages tucked into the bark of many tree species native to North America. Of these, the oaks are the most efficient in providing larval feed for our feathered friends. Professor Douglas Tallamy provides an in-depth and fascinating account of the massive niche occupied by the various species of oak in the ecology of North America. Tallamy records the activities of the oaks and their many visitors from month to month throughout the year. In addition to being a winter-feeding station for birds, oaks serve numerous insect species as a refuge and feeding reservoir allowing them to complete their varied life cycles and integrate into the complex web of life in the North American woods. Their extensive root system stabilizes the soil and effectively combats erosion. In short, oaks support more life forms and interactions than any other tree species in our northern hemisphere. These giants form a keystone upon which so much of forest life depends. In addition to demonstrating the vital role played by oaks in our ecology, the author provides a useful guide as to which species of oak do best in the varying environments of the US as well as helpful hints in planting and nurturing these invaluable species.

< Back History of Minnesota’s Successful Apple Research Breeding Program Apples - one of the joys of autumn! Wandering through apple orchards is a favorite activity for Minnesotans. And at the end of the day, there is the pleasure of eating the apples we have collected in so many different ways. But did you know that the University of Minnesota is one of the leading apple research and breeding programs in the U.S.? Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener When people moving from the east coast settled in Minnesota, they brought with them their apple trees. To their dismay, the trees did not survive the Minnesota winters. This dilemma prompted Horace Greeley, editor of the New York Tribune newspaper, to say, “I would not choose to live in Minnesota because one cannot grow apples there”. Minnesota apple growers rose to the challenge. Peter Gideon, from Excelsior, was the first director of the State Experimental Fruit Breeding Farm. In 1968, he produced “Wealthy.” It is still available, but not easy to find. The incredibly successful apple research program at the University of Minnesota (UMN) is one of the oldest continuous programs in the U.S., beginning in 1878. Samuel Green, the first professor of Horticulture, moved operations from Excelsior to the St. Paul UMN campus. In addition to advancing apple research, Green catalogued the hundreds of apples that amateur growers had been creating across the state since the mid-1800’s. This was one method he used to further a systematic apple breeding research program. Green edited a book, called Apples (available in the public domain, Apples ), that contained a list of apples, written by John S. Harris. Harris was an amateur apple breeder who was also an officer of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. The book described key characteristics of the apples and the apple trees he found on homesteads and farms across the state. These characteristics included growing challenges, tasting notes, and information about the ancestry of the tree. Some included drawings of the apple. Examples from the book: Coates Seedling Size 2; form, round conical; color, yellowish green with light blush on sun side, skin shows many grayish dots; stem, short; cavity, small; calyx, closed; basin, irregular, shallow, corrugated; flesh, fine, greenish white; flavor, pleasant, sub-acid. Season January to March. Originated in Dakota County, Minnesota. Early Glass Size 7 to 8. form, round, angular flat, slightly ridged; color yellowish green, with light spots showing through the skin; flesh, nearly white, a little coarse and loose; flavor, mild acid, not rich; stem, short and stout in a medium irregular broadly russeted cavity; calyx, half open in a medium deep, ribbed basin; core, open. Tree is erect and vigorous. Season, August. Origin, Russia. The first apple developed in the research program, named “Minnehaha,” was released in 1920. According to the National Fruit Collection, Minnehaha had ‘rather soft, coarse flesh with a subacid, slightly sweet flavor”. Minnehaha apple The fourth apple introduced was “Haralson” in 1922. This apple is still widely available and a favorite of many people to this day. Haralson apple With apple research going back over 100 years, one might wonder why there have only been 30 new varieties. Producing a viable, hardy, and good tasting apple does not happen overnight. The process of developing a new apple can take 20 to 30 years. When the research program began, researchers collected parent trees from the wild and from growers in the Northeast and the Midwest. These were crossed and new trees containing the characteristics of the different trees were grown. The successful new tree seedlings were crossed with other apple trees that had favorable characteristics. This process was repeated until the trees produced were hardy and had good growing characteristics and more importantly, produced apples with good taste, texture, and appearance. The apple research program in Minnesota is only one of three in the U.S. The other two programs are at Cornell University in New York state and Washington State University. Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available like Beacon, Redwell, Prairie Spy, Fireside, Honeygold, and State Fair . This year, 2022, the UMN’s program released Triumph® . Trees are available in limited quantities and we won’t likely see these apples available widely before 2025. Triumph apple If you’d like to learn more, the Minnesota Historical Society has additional information on the history of growing apple trees in an article titled, “Minnesota Apple Trees” at http://collections.mnhs.org . References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/100-years-university-minnesota-apple-breeding https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples/varieties Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 4, 5), Samuel Green Apples book (2, 3)

< Back Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Columbine or Columbina was an enduring character of Italian commedia del’arte, coquettish, heavily made up, outspoken with almost always something to say. Her botanical namesake, the columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is also an outspoken herald of spring, brightly made up, making a statement in the garden or the wild. The eastern red columbine is native to the entire Midwest. You will find this beauty in rock outcrops, rocky or sandy woodlands as well as savannas. To successfully grow columbine in the garden it is very helpful to provide extra drainage. Usually a rock, gravel or sand underlayment will do the trick although for years my columbines have spread and reseeded in my raised beds with no other preparations. They also look well in rock gardens or other stone or concrete works. Columbines can be a good choice for container gardens as well. It is important to allow for reseeding as individual columbines seldom live more than three years. They do best in full sun although they tolerate light to moderate shade well. Plant height varies from one to four feet, the taller plants often putting on a magnificent display of very showy ruby red flowers. Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis). A somewhat darker bloom Pollination of Columbine is primarily carried out by the ruby-throated hummingbird although an occasional swallowtail butterfly may pitch in. Aquilegia canadensis flowers in the late spring over several weeks. It then produces a fruiting capsule by midsummer which disperses small black seeds before it disintegrates. The compound leaves of the basal portion of the fruiting body remain into the fall, acting as a host for leaf mining moth larvae. You can see the results of the larvae’s feeding as scrolling markings appear on the leaves. As you might anticipate, any plant as showy as the columbine would fall into the hands of the breeder to produce even showier cultivars. A number of very attractive varieties are on the market. Two of my favorites are “Swan Mix” and “Origami Mix”. These are by no means native to anywhere and their value to pollinators is suspect. But as long as you make sure to plant plenty of the native species, I think you can admire the beauty of the cultivars with a clean conscience! Columbine “Swan Mix”, an engaging cultivar Columbine “Origami Mix”, another showy cultivar Photo Credit: Jim Lakin (1,2,3,4)

< Back Healthy Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Believe it or not, fall is the best time to repair your existing lawn. And, with climate weather changes, it is also a good time to consider what type of lawn you want to have in the future. Sometimes it can be perplexing as to where to begin. If you are interested in lawn care, please read this article. With climate change, doing the same lawn care, may not yield the same results. The first step is to evaluate your existing yard. Evaluate your existing yard status. What type of soil do you have? Through the U of MN Extension, you can get a soil text. See this website for details. https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden Are some areas of your lawn difficult to mow because they are on a slope? Should you consider replacing this part of the lawn into a pollinator garden with some shrubs and/or pollinator flowers or create a no-mow bee lawn? What type of sun do you have on the various areas of your lawn? There are grass seed mixes for Shade, Part-Sun, and Sunny areas. Not all grass seed works for every section of your yard. Many nurseries have various seed mixes available for sale. Prior to spending money on seed, take stock as to what type of sun/shade is in each area and measure the dimensions so you know how much seed to buy. If you are renovating areas of your yard, question why the existing grass did not thrive? Shady areas especially dense shade is hard to maintain grass. Fine fescue grasses work best in shady areas, but if it is really dense, even that may not grow thick. Another option is to create a pathway and plant some native shade plants instead of having a lawn. You can even consider sedges. What areas of your yard get walked on a lot or have damage from pets? The type of grass mix you put down can make a difference for those areas. Critters such as voles and moles can be a lawn culprit. For more info about voles/moles, go to this link. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage Do you have areas of your yard that get excessive salt from the road or driveway? You may need to prep the soil differently in those areas prior to planting or even consider a rain garden bed in those areas. How much work are you interested in doing to maintain your yard? Watering and mowing are a lot of resources. Should you consider a fine fescue grass mix that uses less water and doesn’t need to be mowed as often or potentially a bee lawn? There are lots of things to consider before starting on your lawn renovation. Sometimes it is easier if you take just a section of your yard at a time. It does not need to be done in one season. The U of MN Extension has a Lawn Care Calendar that focuses on what months are best to plant seeds, when to fertilize, and when to lay down seed. See this link for the calendar. As stated early, late August to Early September is the best time to put down new grass seed if you are starting a new area specially. Spring is the second-best time. But if you are wanting to thicken or repair your lawn, putting down seed in late October to November (once it is too cold for grass to germinate) is great for dormant seeding. Preparing the soil for lawn repair. Does your grass have an excessive amount of dead grass called thatch that is killing the grass? If so, it might need to be dethatched before applying new seed. Grass seed has to have contact with the dirt to be successful in germination. Dethatching machines can be rented for large areas. Hand raking works for small repairs. If you have clay soil, sometimes, you need to consider aerating your lawn on a periodic basis (annually or every few years). This can be done by renting a machine that will remove soil plugs from your lawn. Once the lawn has been prepped, laying down seed is the next step. Seeding in late August to September requires consistent watering when the soil is dry (several times a day). Dormant seeding in November does not require watering. The seed will germinate in early Spring. Purchasing sod is another option for new lawns especially but is more expensive and still requires consistent watering in the early stages. There are many things to consider with lawn care maintenance and repair. This website has additional information if you are interested in learning more. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension 1,2,3,4

< Back Alternatives to a Christmas Tree: A Greener Christmas Marjory Blare, Master Gardener How many times have you seen dead, dry Christmas trees next to the road? Sometimes they just stay there, sometimes the city picks them up. But there are greener alternatives. Read on for some creative ideas. Some 95 million Americans decorate their homes for Christmas, of those, almost 80 % opt for artificial trees. Most artificial trees are made in China of chemical-laden plastics. The Natural Resources Defense Council estimates that you would need to use an artificial tree for 20 years to offset its eco-impact. There is a growing trend towards renting a live tree. Right now, it is centered mostly on the west coast, but, if enough people express an interest in it, the idea may catch on here. The idea is that you rent a live tree grown in a pot. At the end of the season, you return the tree, and then it is grown on in a climate-controlled environment and rented out for the next season. A tree can be rented out for 7-10 years, whereupon it will be planted to grow and improve the environment. Although not all of these suggestions are totally “green,” here are some creative ways that Minnesotans can decorate for the holidays: HGTV has a list of 40 alternatives , including a chalkboard tree, a string tree and a flowerpot tree. Look at Homes and Gardens take on decorating ideas, including a keepsake tree and a tree made from books. Or, how about Real Homes ideas including a step ladder tree, a firewood tree and a painted peg board tree. Martha Stewart has a list of alternatives including a dowel tree and a twig tree. how to decorate and care for a Norfolk Island Pine. Please consider some of these alternatives if you are in the market for a new Christmas approach. Photo credits: freeimageslive.co.uk (1), Theodora Sanford, Hennepin County (2), Katherine Bjorndahl, Le Sueur County (3), Renee Miller West St. Paul (4)

< Back Why Weigela? Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Weigelas are beautiful, deer-resistant, flowering shrubs. There are many lovely varieties to choose. Learn why you should consider this shrub for your garden. Wine and Roses Weigelas (wy-GEE-la) are a hardy shrub that can vary in size from 1.5 feet to 12 feet high, depending on the cultivar. Funnel-form or bell-shaped blossoms can be white, yellow, pale pink, deep-red or maroon. Some varieties bloom only in the spring, some follow-up with a steady supply the rest of the year, some will re-bloom later. Leaves can be dark or light green, variegated or 'purple/bronze'. Weigela is hardy in zones 4 – 8 and does best in full sun to dappled shade. They are tolerant of most soil conditions, even clay, but they don't do well in soggy conditions. For planting instructions see: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/planting-shrubs-correctly/ This link has a very good explanation of how to plant container-grown shrubs, but also has a great explanation of why they recommend these procedures. They also tell you how to “root-wash” (my favorite method) container plants, and why this method is recommended. In this age of invasive species, this can be one way to avoid jumping worms. Make sure to dispose of the discarded soil. Be aware that this link is from South Carolina, so, the advice to get a soil test ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) is valid, but Dakota County soils are not generally acidic, we do not rarely need to amend the soil with lime. Red Prince Rubidor Fertilize Weigela in the spring just before new growth appears. It may not be necessary to prune at all, (except for winter die-back and any crossed, rubbing, branches), if you've chosen the right cultivar for the available space. Pay special attention to mature plant size and USDA zones when you buy. Some growers “push” the limits of the zones and sizes for the cultivar. Check several different catalogs to see what zones and sizes they list. Weigelas bloom on “old” wood. That means that next year's flowers will be produced on wood that grew this year. Prune immediately after flowering, if you wait longer, you will remove next year's flowers. Some varieties send up a “horn” that you may want to prune, also. In a dry spring, direct sun can burn the leaves of yellow-leafed varieties. Prune burned growth after new growth has come in. There are two more intensive kinds of pruning that you may want to consider at some point. The first is re-rejuvenation. This would be your choice if the shrub is looking worn-out, overgrown or raggedy. Simply put, you cut all the stems back to about 6”. It will take time to recover and fill in the space, but will have good results. The other is renewal pruning. Each year prune out about 1/3rd of the oldest stems. Both of these techniques will result in renewed vigor and blooming in the future. These methods will work on many other shrubs as well. Polka Weigelas are a pollinator-friendly, deer-resistant, drought-resistant, reliable addition to your home landscape! Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)

< Back Obedient Plant or False Dragonhead (Physostegia virginiana): An Obliging Beautiful Beast Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener “False Dragonhead” is so named because its flowers look like menacing dragons (if you’ve been binging on Game of Thrones). It picked up the “false” from being erroneously classified under the genus of “true” dragonheads, Drachocephalum, at one time. Regardless of it’s rather forbidding name, “False Dragonhead” can be a wonderful plant in your native garden. This article explains why. Physostegia sp. acquired one of its common names from the remarkable property of its stalks staying where you bend them. I have observed that this ability to obediently stay put is unique among plants and grandchildren. Its other common name, “false dragonead “stems from its flowers looking like menacing dragons (if you’ve been binging on Game of Thrones ). It picked up the “false” from being erroneously classified under the genus of “true” dragonheads, Drachocephalum, at one time. Whatever you choose to call it, Physostegia virginiana is a lovely native perennial plant producing white to soft pink or pale lavender tubular flowers arranged on a spike at the top of a two-to-four-foot stem. Its showy blooms appear for about a month in late summer into early fall. Since it propagates by underground rhizomes it will form extensive thickets given the right conditions with moist, rich soil. It is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae) and can be a bit aggressive. Thus, Obedient Plant usually works better in natural rather than traditional gardens. Its closely related cousin, Physostegia angustifolia, has less of a spreading tendency, forming looser clumps. It might be an alternative for more formal garden settings. Either species will attract pollinators with long proboscises such as sphinx moths, bumblebees and butterflies. The adult plant seems to be pretty deer resistant. If you are planning a garden spot of mixed native perennials, you might consider pairing Obedient Plant with Queen of the Prairie ( Filipendula rubra ), Joe Pye Weed ( Eutrochium maculatum) and/or Blazing Star ( Liatris spicata ). Since obedient plant is native to most of Eastern North America including the Midwest, it usually does quite well in Minnesota, once established (USDA Zones 3-9). As we mentioned, it prefers moist to medium soils as are found in open floodplain woodlands, wet prairies or wetland edges. It likes full sun but can do well in partial shade. It can be propagated easily by division of clumps. To grow from seed, cold stratification for 60 days is needed before germination. When planting, allow one to two feet spacing. How ever you choose to come by this lovely native perennial, it will be an attractive pollinator-friendly addition to your garden. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com

< Back Growing Healthy Tomatoes in Minnesota Tomatoes are a beloved staple of Minnesota summer gardens and there is nothing like biting into a juicy, fresh-picked tomato. As popular as they are, unfortunately, tomato plants are susceptible to diseases, disorders, and other issues. Here are some practices you can do to set your tomato plants up for success by reducing problems before they may begin and how to manage through the growing season. Jessie Thompson, Dakota County Master Gardener Pick the Right Plant or Seed Consider growing a disease-resistant variety of tomato. Cornell University has an extensive list of disease-resistant varieties for cherry, grape, heirloom, plum, slicer, and rootstock tomatoes: Disease-resistant tomato varieties | Cornell Vegetables . When growing tomatoes from seed, choose a reputable supplier. Avoid using seeds saved from infected plants as pathogens can survive on the seed. Or if you are starting with transplants, inspect the plant thoroughly. Select healthy plants without any leaf spots or discoloration. Keep it Clean If equipment (like pots, tomato cages, trellis, stakes, and plant supports) has been used before, make sure it has been cleaned and sanitized before reusing. Start by removing any plant debris and soil. Then a 10% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) can be used to sanitize. Ensure garden tools are also clean. Pick a New Neighborhood When planting your tomatoes, choose a location where no tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, or other members of the tomato family have grown in 3-4 years. Pathogens can survive in the soil through winter and could infect the new plants if they are grown in the same spot without crop rotation. Provide Space for Air Flow Space tomatoes apart to provide good air flow. Some growers remove the lower leaves on the tomato plant to increase air circulation and this can also prevent pathogens that may be in the soil from splashing on the leaves. Staking or trellising tomatoes provides support to keep the plants from contacting the soil. Using mulch around the tomato plants is another strategy to reduce splashing on the leaves and provides the benefit of retaining soil moisture. Water and Fertilize Properly A healthy tomato plant will be more able to withstand disease and disorders so take care to water your plant properly and fertilize. Inconsistent watering can be stressful to the plant which can make them more susceptible to disease and exacerbate issues. When watering by hand, avoid overhead watering; instead, direct the water to the base of the plant. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation systems are also ideal methods for watering tomatoes to provide water directly to the roots. Keep leaves dry as much as possible because moisture creates favorable conditions for diseases to spread quickly by bacteria and fungi spores. Water plants in the morning instead of evening to allow foliage to dry quickly if it does get wet. Practice Early Intervention Inspect your tomato plants each week as diseases can be easier to manage if they are identified and addressed early. If you notice spots on the tomato leaves, remove the infected leaves at the first signs of spots. If it has rained or leaves are wet, allow leaves to dry first before working with your plant as bacteria can easily spread on hands and tools. Sanitize pruning tools with 10% bleach solution after using on an infected plant. Up to a third of the leaves can be removed. Recognize Common Problems Common causes of leaf spots include Septoria leaf spot , early blight , and bacterial spot which can look very similar in their early stages. Septoria leaf spot looks like small spots less than ⅛” in diameter with a gray or tan center and dark border and is caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersic i . Lower leaves are infected first and then progresses. It can affect the leaves, petioles, and sepals of a plant. septoria leaf spot; Credit: Michelle Grabowski, University of Minnesota Extension Early blight is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani . It appears as black and brown irregular spots often with a yellow edge on the leaves. The pathogen is most likely to spread in wet weather and high humidity. The spores can spread by wind, human contact, and equipment. tomato leaf with early blight; Credit: Michelle Grabowski, University of Minnesota Extension Bacterial spot looks like small, black round dots about 1mm diameter with a yellow border. The bacteria strains that cause this disease favor high humidity and high temperatures. The leaves, stems, and fruit can all be affected. tomato leaf with bacterial spot; Credit: Michelle Grabowski, University of Minnesota Extension If you notice something unusual with your tomato plant, this is a great resource: What's wrong with my plant? : Garden: University of Minnesota Extension . You can search by symptom to diagnose the issue and explore links with more information and recommendations for management. By implementing these best practices, providing consistent care, and proactive management, you can reduce disease pressure and enjoy a healthy tomato harvest this season. cherry tomatoes; Credit: Jessie Thompson References and for further reading : Tomato leaf spot diseases | UMN Extension Disease management for vegetable crops | UMN Extension Tomato disorders | UMN Extension Clean and disinfect gardening tools and containers | UMN Extension Managing Tomato Diseases, Disorders, and Pests | Yard and Garden Tomato Diseases and Disorders in the Home Garden Key to Common Problems of Tomatoes | University of Maryland Extension

< Back Wild Rice - Our State Grain What looks like rice, cooks like rice, and is named like rice, but isn’t actually rice? It’s our Minnesota state grain: wild rice. Click here to find out more about this culturally important Minnesota symbol. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Wild rice, or manoomin, translated to “good berry”, as the Ojibwe people call it, is not really a rice at all. It is actually an annual aquatic grass native to Minnesota. It officially became the state grain of Minnesota on May 27, 1977. This article will touch on the history, some interesting facts, and attempt to portray the incredible significance of this “food that grows on water.” Wild rice has been a source of food for humans, fish, and waterfowl for thousands of years. Through excavation, it has been found in layers of earth dating back 12,000 years. At one time, it was documented to grow in 45 of Minnesota’s 87 counties. While it grows beyond the borders of our state, Minnesota has more acres of natural wild rice than any other state. Additionally, our state harvests between 4 and 10 million pounds of cultivated “wild” rice each year. Another large producer of cultivated wild rice is California. A ‘white rice” farmer tried growing it after receiving seeds from a Minnesota friend in the early 70’s. Historically, natural wild rice grows on its own, reseeding every year in a delicate ecosystem that is difficult to replicate - in case you want to try growing it on your own. Ideal conditions are waters that are 1 to 3 feet deep with a slight current, that isn’t so strong that it uproots the plants, and has a soft organic bottom. It grows 3 to 9 feet tall and is sensitive to fluctuations in water depth. Other water vegetation such as water lilies, water shield, and pickerel weed sometimes compete with wild rice and may limit production. The plants are wind-pollinated with both male and female flowers growing on the same stalk. Typically, in late August into September, the seeds ripen at various times so that harvesting can be repeated more than once in the same area. Seeds that fall back into the water will form new plants over the following year or two. Traditionally, the harvest is done with two people in a canoe. One is the “poler,” guiding the canoe through the rice beds with a forked pole constantly looking ahead for plants heavy with mature seeds. The other person is the “knocker.” Using two carved cedar sticks about 30 inches long, the knocker gently pulls the stalks over the canoe with one stick and then tap-taps the stalks rhythmically causing the mature seeds to fall into the canoe. Some Native people recite “miigwech!” or “thank you” with each repetition of the process to thank the Creator for the nutritious food that lasted and sustained their ancestors through long winters. Next, the grain is dried, then parched or roasted, and finally the chaff is removed. In contrast to natural wild rice, the University of Minnesota began studying wild rice production back in the 1950’s. By 1973, the University had established a wild rice research program which helped lead to the growth of Minnesota’s commercial wild rice industry. According to the Minnesota Secretary of State, there are about 20,000 acres of commercially farmed wild rice in Minnesota. The harvesting process is very different compared to natural wild rice harvests. Instead, it is grown as a farm crop, where rice paddies are drained when the seeds are mature, and combines are used to harvest the crop. Most of the wild rice in grocery stores is cultivated. To try natural wild rice, make sure the package does not say “cultivated” on it. An obvious difference is that due to the more labor intensive harvest methods, natural wild rice is more expensive to purchase, but some people also notice differences in how it cooks and tastes compared to commercially grown wild rice. If you are interested in harvesting wild rice yourself, there are some strict guidelines set by the Minnesota DNR. You must purchase a license, harvest only during restricted harvest periods in approved areas and use only traditional methods with no mechanized tools. All of the regulations can be found here . Failure to follow the regulations can result in a fine up to $1000 and/or 90 days in jail. Studies at the University of Minnesota have found wild rice has antioxidant properties and phytochemicals to boost immune systems. Wild rice is low in fat, but high in fiber and protein, and gluten free. One cup of cooked wild rice is only 166 calories, yet provides 6.5 grams of protein. It is also rich in folic acid, niacin, potassium, zinc and several B vitamins. Here are some wild rice fun or interesting facts: It is said that wild rice can be popped like popcorn, but that is only partially true. It can be popped, but don’t expect the results to be like popcorn. The kernels “pop” but are probably more suited to garnish on a salad rather than a snack to have during movie night! Lumberjacks used to eat wild rice with milk and honey for breakfast. Wild rice is the only cereal grain native to North America. Finally, like all living things in our fragile ecosystem, climate change, water quality, development and construction threaten the future of wild rice. In order to protect this food, valuable to humans and wildlife, and particularly impactful to Native culture and way of life, the White Earth Nation established the Rights of Manoomin in their tribal law, to protect the future of wild rice. To date, however, no U.S. court has recognized a rights of nature law. Cases are currently ongoing regarding the protection of wild rice. For further reading, these books and websites are recommended by the Andersen Horticultural Library at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, University of Minnesota, For youth: ~The Ojibwa: Wild Rice Gatherers, by Therese DeAngelis. Blue Earth Books, 2003. Discusses the Ojibwa Indians, focusing on their tradition of gathering wild rice. Includes a rice recipe and instructions for making a dream catcher. ~The Sacred Harvest: Ojibway Wild Rice Gathering, by Gordon Regguinti. Lerner Publishing, 1992. 48 p. Glen Jackson, Jr., an eleven-yearold Ojibway Indian in northern Minnesota, goes with his father to harvest wild rice, the sacred food of his people. For adults: ~Our Manoomin, Our Life: The Anishinaabeg Struggle to Protect Wild Rice, by Winona LaDuke and Brian Carlson. White Earth Land Recovery Project, 2003. 24 p. ~Saga of the Grain: A Tribute to Minnesota Cultivated Wild Rice Growers, by Ervin A. Oelke, John Schumacher, and Robin Schreiner. Hobar Publications, 2007. 139 p. ~The Taming of Wild Rice, by Harold Kosbau. Treasure Bay Printing, 2005. 102 p. Wild Rice and the Ojibway People, by Thomas Vennum. Minnesota Historical Society Press. 1988. 357 p. ~Wild Rice, Star of the North: 150 Minnesota Recipes for a Gourmet Grain, by the 1006 Summit Avenue Society. McGraw-Hill, 1986. 188 p. Websites: ~1854 Treaty Authority: Grand Portage, Bois Forte.www.1854treatyauthority.org/wildrice/otherinfo.htm ~Minnesota Cultivated Wild Rice Council. www.mnwildrice.org/ ~Where the Wild Things Grow, by Ed Clark. AgWeb January 11, 2012. www.agweb.com/topproducer/article/where_the_wild_things_grow/ Resources for this article: https://wildrice.umn.edu/ https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/sites/top10plantsmn.umn.edu/files/2021-07/10plantsresourcelistforkids.pdf https://statesymbolsusa.org/symbol-official-item/minnesota/state-food-agriculture-symbol/wild-rice https://www.revisor.mn.gov/laws/1977/0/Session+Law/Chapter/348/pdf/ https://wildrice.umn.edu/ https://www.mnwildrice.org/cultivated.php http://www.calwildrice.org/california-wild-rice-history.html https://www.1854treatyauthority.org/wild-rice/biology-of-wild-rice.html https://mooselakewildrice.com/about-wild-rice/about-wild-rice https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/regulations/wildrice/index.html#:~:text=Harvesting%20wild%20rice%20is%20open,accompanied%20by%20a%20licensed%20harvester . https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-grain-wild-rice/ https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/grass-sedge-rush/wild-rice#:~:text=palustris%20was%20once%20considered%20a,smaller%20spikelets%20 https://www.pca.state.mn.us/air-water-land-climate/protecting-wild-rice-waters#:~:text=In%201973%2C%20Minnesota%20adopted%20a,primarily%20in%20low%20sulfate%20waters.&text=Iron%20in%20sediment%20binds%20to,it%20nontoxic%20to%20wild%20rice . https://whiteearth.com/assets/files/judicial/codes/1855%20Res%20estab%20Rts%20of%20Manoomin%202018%20with%20Resolution.pdf Photo credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database (1), Minnesota Wildflowers (2), Lisa Olson (3, 4), All Creative Commons: intercontinentalcry.org (5)

< Back Pound Flowers for Summer Fun Brenda Hansell, Master Gardener Many of the flowers you have enjoyed throughout the summer will soon fade away. Even cut flowers last only a few days in the house. Here is a fun way to preserve flowers and entertain the children. Flower pounding is an easy activity for most any age. Adult guidance and assistance will vary from child to child. When complete, my granddaughter jumped up, threw her hands in the air and shouted: “YAY, ART!!” (‘nuf said.) Read this article to learn how to share this fun activity with the child in your life. Materials: Watercolor paper (optional card stock) Parchment or wax paper Masking tape Hammer or mallet Fresh flowers Steps: 1) Gather the flowers. Bright colors such as red, yellow, and blue release more intense pigments. 2) Trim off the stems close enough to the base of the flower to permit it to lay flat while keeping the bloom intact. Use some of the leaves as well. 3) Flowers with large centers, such as cone flowers, will require removal of the thick center. Use only the carefully placed petals. Otherwise, there will be too much dark pollen “explosion.” (Though it does create a rather interesting, abstract appearance!) 4) Work on a hard, flat surface 5) Arrange the flowers face down on the watercolor paper. 6) Carefully cover with the wax paper 7) Press down firmly on the wax paper and tape in place 8) To get the feel of how firmly to pound & which flowers transfer best, you may want to try one or two “practice flowers” on a separate paper. (This is an optional step.) 9) Using firm pressure begin pounding the flowers, working in from the edges 10) Carefully, lift the wax paper to check the transfer 11) Continue pounding until desired effect is achieved. 12) Some pieces of petals and leaves may stick to the paper. Gently use your fingernail to scratch them off. 13) Frame and admire the finished piece of ART! Note, some folks embellish the print with colored pencils or fine painted brush strokes. Photo credits: Branda Hansell (all)