< Back Wild Bergamot, the Bees’ Delight Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner Watching bees and butterflies hovering over lavender-topped Wild Bergamot on a quiet summer afternoon is a delightful moment. It is just one of the reasons to include this native plant in your garden. Read this article to learn more about the environmental benefits and other charms of this beautiful plant. There are a number of varieties of Monarda fistulosa , differing in their color and odor. As you might imagine it is a popular source of nectar for bees, hummingbirds and butterflies as well as being a larval host for the orange mint moth and the hermit sphinx moth. It has been widely used as a medicinal plant by Native Americans and indeed it is high in thymol, an organic compound with antimicrobial properties. Bergamot grows fairly easily in any good garden soil in full sun to partial shade. Clumps of plants divide easily. It can be grown from seed although stratification (exposure to damp cold air) for a month helps. It is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae) although it is not terribly invasive. Bergamot forms clumps which can reach 4 feet. It works nicely as a perennial border but it is at its best in a natural landscape or in a prairie restoration, blooming in late summer. That blooming produces lipped, light to dark lavender purple flowers, arranged in a whorl around a rounded flower head. The seed heads will hold into the winter providing visual interest as well as distinctive bergamot aroma. Speaking of aroma, being a native herb, the dried or macerated leaves can be boiled to produce a fragrant tea. It usually is quite hardy, although Wild Bergamot does tend to develop mildew on the leaves in late summer. This is a purely cosmetic issue and not one to warrant a chemical onslaught. Instead, relax and enjoy bergamot’s showy flowers and swarms of colorful, intriguing insects. Photo credit: My Patriot Supply (1), Jeff Fleming (2) & Julie Harris (3)

< Back Preparing Your Trees and Evergreens for Winter Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener and Brynne Eisele, Master Gardener We’ve all heard that there are only two seasons in Minnesota---Winter and Getting Ready for Winter (or is it Road Repair?). In any event, Minnesota’s harsh winter can cause severe damage to landscape plants. The big three threats are sun, cold and critters. Happily, there are a number of things you can do this fall to protect your trees and shrubs from the Terrible Trio. Sun Damage. On a clear winter day, the sun can heat up the bark of a tree or the needles of an evergreen to the point where the cells will come out of dormancy. When the sun sets or goes behind a cloud cover, the temperature in the cells rapidly drops, killing the exposed plant tissue. This “sun scald” is most likely to occur on the bark of young or thin-skinned trees such as cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, mountain ash or plum. To prevent sunscald, wrap the trunk of susceptible trees with a white plastic tree guard available at most nurseries and on-line. Stay away from brown paper tree wrap or black tree guards as they will absorb heat rather than reflect it. You should wrap newly planted trees for at least two winters and thin-barked species for five or more winters. Apply the tree guards in the fall and remove in the spring after the last frost. A white plastic tree guard applied to a new planting. Evergreens are susceptible to similar injury, especially with early cold weather in the fall or a spring cold snap after new growth has begun. Although all evergreens are susceptible to this “winter browning”, yew, hemlock, and arborvitae as well as new transplants are especially so. Several measures can reduce winter evergreen injury. When planting susceptible species, consider placing them in areas protected from wind and winter sun such as the north or northwest side of buildings. If a plant is exposed, a barrier of burlap on the windward (usually the south or southwest) side can help. As with deciduous trees, watering in the late fall before a hard frost can make a big difference. Don’t prune after August as this may stimulate growth that a frost will “nip in the bud.” Commercial anti-desiccants and anti-transpirant sprays have not been found to be helpful. Cold Damage. Cold weather can kill trees and shrubs if conditions are right. The cold accomplishes this be freezing the root system which is much more cold-sensitive than the stems of branches. What normally protects the root system of a tree or evergreen is the relative warmth of the surrounding earth. The soil cools less rapidly than air. Any insulation from a snow-cover or mulch will further increase soil and root warmth. Thus, to reduce root injury cover newly planted trees and shrubs with 3 to 4 inches of shredded wood mulch. You should pull the mulch away from the trunk about 6 inches to create a “doughnut” not a “volcano”! Watering is also critical. Moist soil retains heat much better than dry soil. If the fall has been dry water heavily before the ground freezes. This will reduce frost penetration. Before you mulch, check new plantings for cracks in the soil. These act as cold air conduits. Fill them in with soil. Critter Damage. If you have a manageable number of trees and shrubs to protect, the best defense is to surround the plant or trunk with ¼ inch mesh hardware cloth 6 inches away from the plant. This will prevent animals from reaching through to do their damage. Keep in mind the anticipated snow line as it’s important to protect 1-2 feet above the snow line with the hardware cloth to prevent animals from nibbling partway up the plant. It is also important to bury the bottom of the hardware cloth 2-3 inches below the soil surface to reduce the chance of animals tunneling underneath. For smaller, less established trees you may be able to use plastic white tree guards. If you have large number of trees and shrubs to protect, consider applying an organic repellant. Coated hardware cloth cylinder sunk 2-3 inches below ground. Reducing the desirable habitat will help decrease protective cover and nesting locations. This can be done by cutting grass and other vegetation short in a 2 foot radius around young trees and shrubs. It also helps to remove brush piles and add fencing to other hiding places such as under decks. While hungry animals in winter may gnaw on your trees and shrubs no matter the protective measures you take, these methods can significantly reduce the amount and severity of damage. Deer, however, are a different story. They often adapt to repellents and a change of product is frequently necessary to discourage them. In late winter when they are starving, even that won’t stop them. Thus, a physical barrier is often the only way to manage deer. That can be a tough proposition though. Fences should be at least 8 feet high and of sturdy construction. However, a hungry deer if given a running start can clear a 12-foot barrier. You might try an electric fence such as used for cattle. Deer populations have been exploding in Minnesota as we have eliminated their natural predators. Maybe a few wolves here and there aren’t so bad. For more information on this complex subject, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back The Dakota County Seed Library This month we would like to tell you about the Dakota County Seed Library, located in the Farmington Library. Read on to learn about how this important project contributes to the support of pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices and, most importantly for you, the home gardener, how you can benefit from and contribute to this project. Lana Tullis with Julie Harris, Master Gardeners Dakota County Master Gardeners, in partnership with the Dakota County Library Foundation and Dakota County Natural Resources, maintain the seed library. The Seed Library provides residents and home gardeners with a diverse selection of heirloom and open-pollinated edibles, herbs, flowers and native plant seeds. This free resource is intended to promote the growth of healthy, flavorful food and preserve plant varieties by offering a number of heirloom varieties well suited for our climate but not commonly found in retail centers. These seeds allow you, the home gardener, to protect, preserve and share these valuable seeds. The Seed Library also offers native plant seeds that support pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices. These heirloom seeds are available to the public at the Farmington Library (508 3rd St., Farmington, MN 55024) while supplies last, beginning in March. A library card is not required, however, for the enjoyment of all, please consider limiting your selection to 5 packets per visit. The check out system is easy. Just select your seed packets, scan the QR code or fill out a checkout sheet and drop into the lockbox located near the seed cabinet. Each seed packet includes directions for planting and growing that are seed specific. The Farmington Seed Library was established about 5 years ago and has grown annually with generous donations from local and regional seed suppliers (Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, Albert Lea Select Seeds) along with local gardeners. Note that you can contribute to the seed library . Heirloom seed donations can be left at the Farmington Library. Please provide the original supplier packaging with “packaged for dates” of 2021 or later. Harvested, or saved, seeds from your garden may also be shared through our ‘share’ drawer. Throughout the winter, Master Gardener volunteers sort, label and organize donations for an estimated 3,000 - 4,000 seed packets. Volunteers also maintain inventory throughout the season, conduct demonstration plantings and are available to support your gardening plan. Lana Tullis is the project lead and is supported by Becky Peterson, BJ Hansell, Jackie Pospisil, Cynthia Muller, Patty Sutherland and Janet Schutte. Check out Heirloom and Native seeds at the Farmington Library - automatic renewal and no late fees! More information can be found at www.co.dakota.mn.us/libraries/Using/Seed . Photo Credit: Barbara Svoboda, Farmington Library Librarian (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back Identifying Bees and Wasps and their Nests BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener There it is. The buzzing noise that strikes fear into the hearts of many a gardener. It might be nothing more than a hummingbird zipping by. Or maybe, just maybe, It’s a stinging insect. It’s a bee, a wasp a hornet! Duck and run!! Truly, most of the time if you leave these creatures alone, they will leave you alone. After all, they are only protecting their territory. They are wonderful pollinators, and you do love how well your garden is flourishing. Hmmm, let’s take a closer look at them & their homes. There it is. The buzzing noise that strikes fear into the hearts of many a gardener. It might be nothing more than a hummingbird zipping by. Or maybe, just maybe It’s a stinging insect. It’s a bee, a wasp a hornet! Duck and run!! Truly, most of the time if you leave these creatures alone, they will leave you alone. After all, they are only protecting their territory. They are wonderful pollinators, and you do love how well your garden is flourishing. Hmmm, let’s take a closer look at them and their homes. Read on to begin our busy journey. This article is a very basic overview of the most commonly encountered wasp and bee nests in MN. You are encouraged to peruse the references provided. Indeed, count them as a launching pad into the amazing world of these insects, without which most of our gardens and agriculture fields would yield vacant lots and desolate landscapes. Wasps and their nests : Wasps will generally not bother people when their nests are not near human activity but should be eliminated when they are located close to people to minimize the risk of stings. Yellowjackets and paper wasps are two types of wasps commonly found in Minnesota. Yellowjackets are 3/8” to 5/8” long and are bright yellow with black lines or other shaped markings on their abdomens. Their bodies are basically hairless and are hard and shiny. They can be mistaken for honey bees. Yellowjackets can be aggressive during late summer and fall around human food and drink. Yellowjackets make their nests from a papery pulp made of chewed-up wood fibers mixed with saliva. Their nests may be found in many places: below ground in open cavities, hollow logs, and in voids in attics and walls. Some yellowjackets build nests in trees and under eaves of buildings. Hundreds to thousands of yellow jackets may be found inside these nests. Paper wasps are ½ to 1 inch long and are usually brown with yellowish markings. Paper wasp nests are small and can be found under any horizontal surface. In contrast with yellowjackets, not more than 100 wasps can be found in these nests. Neither yellowjackets nor paper wasps use their nests for more than one season. Bees and their nests. Honey bees and bumble bees are two types of bees commonly found in Minnesota. Bee nests are not usually a problem for humans and should be preserved when possible. There are many different bumble bee species in Minnesota. Generally, bumble bees have the following characteristics: their size is less than one-half inch to one inch; they are fuzzy and round; and they are black and yellow. Bumble bee nests are often found in underground cavities, under objects on the ground or higher up in trees or wall cavities. Their nests are made of wax. Honey bees are about one-half inch long; are golden brown with thin black stripes on their abdomens and are fuzzy. Part of each hind leg is flat for collecting pollen. Honey bee nests are the familiar vertical honeycombs made of wax. Their colonies are mostly found in manufactured hives although they occasionally nest in cavities of trees, buildings or similar structures. Bees and wasps are complex and fascinating creatures that are vital to human existence. Although most of the time they will not bother humans, they can be aggressive if threatened. To feel more comfortable with these creatures, you would do well to learn all you can about them. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/wasps-and-bees https://www.pollinatorsnativeplants.com/plant-lists--posters.html https://beelab.umn.edu/bumble-bees Photo credits: Photo 1, 5: en.wikipedia.org Photo 2: 3,4: University of Minnesota Extension Photo 6: Elaine Evans, University of Minnesota- Extension Photo 7: Dalantech.deviantart.com (all creative commons) Photo 8: Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Sweet Potatoes and a Sweet Winter Treat Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Sweet potatoes are a lovely garden plant. They are a low calorie but highly nutritious food and have a beautiful color. Sweet potatoes can be harvested very late in the fall and are pretty easy to store over the winter. Best of all, they taste great. You will love this sweet potato recipe from Master Gardener Joy Johnson along with a bonus sweet treat. I want to encourage you to grow sweet potatoes. They are a lovely garden plant, although their vines do take up a lot of room in the garden. The sweet potatoes can be harvested very late in the fall just before the first hard frost. It’s pretty easy to store an abundant crop of sweet potatoes in your home over the winter. That process can be found easily online. The sweet potatoes that I used in this recipe were ones that were grown last fall and stored over the winter. They are a low calorie highly nutritious food and of course have a beautiful color. This recipe makes use of your crockpot but it could also be baked in the oven. Balsamic Seasoned Chicken and Sweet Potatoes Ingredients 2 lbs chicken thighs (You can use boneless skinless if you prefer) 14 oz fat free chicken broth One cup dry white wine, or Moscato if you prefer a sweeter broth One tablespoon balsamic vinegar One teaspoon dried thyme One teaspoon olive oil ½ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon caraway seeds (you can also use fennel seeds) 4 sweet potatoes ½ of a large onion sliced Coat a large skillet with cooking spray and heat over high heat, add the chicken and cook until browned on all sides. Let cool slightly. Combine the broth, wine, vinegar, and thyme in the crock pot. Add the chicken. Rub the exposed area of the chicken with the oil, sprinkle with the pepper and caraway seeds. Arrange the potatoes and onions around the chicken. Cover and cook on low until the chicken is tender the juices run clear and a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 170 degrees F and the potatoes are tender: 8 to 10 hours on low or six to 8 hours on high. OR put the chicken in a large, deep casserole dish, pour the broth mixture over, add the spices, put the potatoes in, layering them with the chicken. Cover and bake in a 350-degree oven for two hours or until chicken registers 170 degrees and potatoes are done. Serve this with rice or mashed potatoes or toast because you have a lot of delicious broth. Chinese Almond Cookies April 9th is national Chinese almond cookie day. Even though there are no ingredients that come from your garden, I thought you would enjoy this Chinese American treat that aren't authentically Chinese. Their round shape symbolizes coins and good luck. They are traditionally served for Chinese New Year. Here are a couple tips to make your cookies a success. · Make sure the butter is cold · Use almond flour not almond meal · Do not skip refrigerating the dough for two hours Ingredients 1 1/3 cups almond flour lightly packed 1 cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut into cubes A pinch of salt 2 large eggs, divided 1 teaspoon almond extract 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup +2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon baking soda thinly sliced almonds, for decoration Place the almond flour, salt, and butter into an electric mixer with a paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for three minutes. The mixture will become coarse and chunky looking. Add one of the eggs and the almond extract. Mix them in on low speed just until incorporated. Sift the flour, sugar, and baking soda together, and add to the mixture. Mix on low speed until just combined. Take the dough and flatten it into a disc and wrap in plastic wrap. Place it in the refrigerator for two hours to chill. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg. Take pieces of dough and roll them into balls about 3/4 inch wide. Place them on the sheet about an inch apart and then press them down slightly with your palm to make a coin shape. Press 1 slivered almond into the center of each cookie. Then using a pastry brush or your finger, paint each cookie with the beaten egg. Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, until the edges just begin to tan. Cool on the sheet on a wire rack. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3)

< Back Garlic Butter Brussel Sprouts Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s March and this month green vegetables may be top of mind (thanks to Saint Patrick, I’m sure). Garden seeds are sprouting under their grow lights and we are excited for warmer days to come when they’ve grown large enough to transplant outside into our gardens. In the meantime, here is a recipe for one green vegetable – brussels sprouts. According to the author, Joy Johnson, even the pickiest of brussels sprouts eaters will love this recipe! For this month’s recipe, I’ll admit I used store bought brussels sprouts. I have grown them in my garden, but I have not had any last in cool storage until March. I’ve never tried to freeze them and would welcome any tips on doing that in case I have a bumper crop this year. Usually, we gobble them up fresh from the garden in late fall. This recipe will tickle your taste buds with it’s spicey, smokey flavors that are cooled with a lemon Aioli sauce to drizzle on just before eating. Garlic Butter Brussels Sprouts Ingredients : 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 4 slices bacon, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 Tablespoons salted butter, melted 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or grated A couple sprigs of fresh thyme for garnish A couple of lemon wedges Process : Preheat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack positioned in the lower third of the oven. In a gallon plastic food storage bag, gently shake together the Brussels sprouts, olive oil, thyme and red pepper flakes. Arrange the Brussels sprouts cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Lay the bacon pieces over the sprouts. Roast until the sprouts are deeply browned and the bacon is crisp, 20 – 25 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the melted butter and the garlic. Remove the sprouts from the oven and pour the butter mixture over them. Return the sprouts to the oven and roast until crispy, 10 minutes. Smokey Lemon Aioli Ingredients: ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 1 garlic clove, finely chopped or grated ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon smoked paprika Salt Process : In a small bowl stir together the mayonnaise, lemon juice, garlic, cayenne and paprika. Taste and add salt as needed. Pile the Brussels sprouts onto a serving plate, sprinkle with the sprigs of fresh thyme, and squeeze the lemon wedges over them. Serve with the bowl of aioli for dipping or drizzle it over them. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,3), foto.wuestenigel.com (2)

< Back Just for My Valentine Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Joy Johnson shares how to use those tomatoes that you saved from September’s harvest. And, make something sweet for your “sweetie” on Valentine’s Day. Joy shares her recipe for Sweetheart scones in this article. It’s February in Minnesota and nothing is growing in our gardens right now. If you’re anything like me, back in September you had a bumper crop of tomatoes. I freeze a lot of tomatoes for use in soups, stews, chili and minestrone during the winter months. I also make a lot of tomato juice and freeze that too. To make tomato juice in the fall, wash core and thickly slice your fresh tomatoes. Put them in a large pot and cook them over medium heat, stirring occasionally until they are completely soft and falling apart. Then put the contents of the pot through a hand food mill. That easily separates the skins and seeds from the pulp and juice. I add one teaspoon of salt to each quart of juice. Then I fill quart sized freezer baggies, lay them flat on a cookie sheet and put them into the freezer. Once they are frozen you can remove the cookie sheet and stack the frozen baggies. Here is a simple recipe for a delicious tomato soup . It really hits the spot on a cold winter day and pairs wonderfully with a grilled cheese sandwich. Because it’s red, it makes a fun Valentine’s Day lunch addition. Cream of Tomato Soup Saute: 2 T. butter 2 T. onion, chopped Blend In: 3 T. Flour 2 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. petter Dash of garlic salt, basil, oregano, thyme Remove from heat. Gradually stir in: 2 c. tomato juice Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil 1 minute. Stir hot tomato mixture into cold milk: It is VERY IMPORTANT to pour the hot tomato mixture into the cold milk, if you pour the cold milk into the hot tomato mixture it will curdle. 2 c. cold milk Heat almost to boiling and serve. Sweetheart Scones Another recipe for Valentine’s Day that the kids can help with are scones. They are easy to make. You can add craisins, raisins, dried blueberries, dried cherries or dried cranberries. (A little grated orange rind is great with the cranberries.) 2 ½ cups flour (you can use part whole wheat) 1/3 cup sugar 1 T. baking powder ¾ tsp. salt 6 T. butter 1 egg ½ cup milk (you can use cows, almond, rice or reconstituted powdered milk) ¾ cup cranberries, cherries or blueberries, dried Top with 2 tsp. milk and 1 tsp. sugar before baking Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Stir. With a pastry blender or fork cut in butter until mixture represents course crumbs. Mix eggs with fork in a bowl and then add ½ cup of milk and blend. Pour egg and milk mixture into flour mixture and toss with a fork until mixture holds together. Stir in cranberries or your choice of berries. Form dough into a ball and gently knead on a lightly floured board five times. Roll dough gently in to ¾ inch thickness and use a large heart-shaped cookie cutter or a knife to cut 8-10 heart shapes. Before baking, brush each heart with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake at 425 degrees for 12-15 minutes until lightly brown. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson

< Back Overwinter Geraniums the Correct Way As the end of the growing season appears it may be sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end. Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s never too early to start thinking about final garden projects as we near the end of our growing season. Sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end? Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Overwintered geraniums are an early memory of mine. I distinctly remember running down the basement stairs of my grandparent’s home and being struck with the scent of the potted geraniums, lined up across the west facing window; the vibrant colors, a welcome contrast to the bright white winter landscape outside. There are two main ways to overwinter your geraniums, both of which need to be done before the first frost: Potted While my grandparents chose to keep tending to their geraniums through the winter months in their original pots, you might keep your geraniums in planters or heavy pots that would be impossible to move indoors. If you want to keep the plants potted, you can transplant them into smaller indoor pots by carefully digging up the root ball, and replanting into the pot of your choice. Before bringing the plant indoors, check for any pests trying to hitch a ride and remove any dead leaves. Now is also a good time to trim back any dead stems. Place your potted plant in front of a bright window or under florescent lights, and water every 1-2 weeks once the top of the soil dries out. Bare Root The enemy of the bare rooted geranium is moisture. That said, you have two options when you are ready to pull your geraniums in for the winter: 1) you can wait for the soil to dry out before digging up the root ball, or 2) you can dig the root ball out of the soil, tapping off any remaining dirt and then let your plant sit out for a day or so to ensure that all excess moisture has evaporated. As with your potted geranium option, be sure to inspect your plant for any pests and cut away any dead leaves, buds or flowers. The objective for this overwintering method is to encourage the plant into dormancy and not spend any energy into supporting existing or new growth. You also have a few housing options for your plant: 1) paper bag (think landscape or grocery), 2) cardboard box or 3) tied up at the root to hang upside down. Each of these options ensures good ventilation which is critical to help ward off excess moisture and darkness, which will lull the plant into dormancy. Place your bag or box in a cool dry location such as a basement, root cellar or shed – anywhere where temperatures will remain around 55-65 degrees. Check on your plant about once a month to inspect for mold or other disease and manage as needed. Getting Ready for Spring – Breaking Dormancy About 6-8 weeks before the last frost day, inspect your plants and trim them back by one-half to two-thirds. Don’t be alarmed if your plant has lost many or all of its leaves. Plant the geranium in a pot, give it a good watering and set it in front of a bright window. Patience and care should generate the first signs of growth in the coming days and weeks and by time the risk of frost has passed, you’ll be weeks ahead of any store-bought geraniums available to gardeners. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back Enhance Your Home with Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is a vine that is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. It provides a unique old world vibe to celebrate the change in season, with no additional effort by you! Aside from saving money on seasonal decorating, Boston Ivy can also be used to cover up an outdated brick façade on your home – which is much more affordable than switching out the brick itself. If you desire a little more privacy or shade on your deck or patio, Boston Ivy can also be grown in a pot and trained to spread across a deck railing, fence, or pergola, just like a screen. Boston Ivy is very versatile and can be grown as a ground cover to provide a uniform look to a garden or wooded area or used for erosion control on a slope. Hardiness Zone Boston Ivy is native to Asia, Korea, Japan and eastern China, but grows well in US Zones 4-8 How to Grow P refers Sun and Part Shade Water well until established then water periodically. Prefers average to dry well-drained soil. Vine grows best on Eastern or Northern facings walls, but grows well on Western Walls too. T olerant of a wide range of soil types and urban pollution. Fast growing and can climb 30 to 40 feet Provides berries for birds in the Fall. Vine grows and travels via small “sucker disks” which can easily be pulled down off wall. May cause some speckling on painted siding or trim. Trim back undesired growth using a scissors periodically throughout growth season (e.g. around windows, doors, roofing, etc.) For more information go to University of Minnesota Extension: https://trees.umn.edu/boston-ivy-parthenocissus-tricuspidata References: Monrovia.com Yates.co.nz Photo credits: Yates.co.nz (1), Doreen Wynja (2, 3), Mary Barnidge (4)

< Back Squash the Holiday Host Competition with a Winter Variety We plant, grow, and nurture our vegetable gardens for the healthy fruits of our fall harvest and also as decorations for our Thanksgiving table and décor. As we look forward to preparing deeply satisfying hearty dishes from a bountiful Fall harvest, winter squash holds a special place at the table. Learn more about two special squash varieties – Sugar Pumpkins and Kabocha Squash in this article. Katie Possis, Master Gardener It’s that time of year when our thoughts turn to celebrating Thanksgiving with family and friends and the joy of decorating for the holiday. We plant, grow, and nurture our vegetable gardens for the healthy fruits of our fall harvest and also as decorations for our Thanksgiving table and décor. As we look forward to preparing deeply satisfying hearty dishes from a bountiful Fall harvest, winter squash holds a special place at the table. Winter squash are fruit that grow on the vine. They are from the genus Cucurbita from the family Cucurbitaceae. There are, of course, subtle differences that set them apart from each other. This article will talk about 2 of the 12 most popular squash varieties along with interesting recipes that excite the taste buds. Sugar Pumpkins Starting with a favorite - Sugar Pumpkins are nutrient packed. For example: one cooked cup of Pumpkin has 49 calories, 76 grams of protein, 17 grams of fat and 1 gram of carbohydrate; a real booster for the immune system. Sugar Pumpkins have thick skin with sweet flesh and are less fibrous than other winter squash. For a new favorite recipe using roasted pumpkin, check out the recipe Pumpkin With Creme Fraiche, Peanut Rayu, Coriander & Spring Onion. - GIY Ireland Ltd for a real treat. Tip for choosing: make sure your pumpkin is heavier than you expect it to be when you pick it up, the skin needs to be firm and a fingernail should not pierce the skin, the stem needs to look like is has died off and is hard. A pumpkin’s stem is the seal between the stalk and fruit. Never lift the pumpkin by the stem as breaking this seal may cause molds and fungal spores which ensure speedy decay. If the pumpkin has been properly cured, it will be beautifully intact for several months. Proper curing takes a few weeks but it’s worth the effort. The pumpkin needs to be dried in the sun, kept away from rain and moisture. Do this for the top side up for 2 weeks then gently flip over for the bottom side to cure for the next two weeks. The curing process can also be accomplished inside next to a sunny window. As this point, the pumpkin is ready to adorn your front steps or buffet table. Kabocha Squash Second up, Kabocha Squash is a Japanese variety of the Cucurbita maxima species. Often used in Japanese and Korean cooking, this squash has a dark green and orange rind. Known for its nutty, earthiness, and with a kiss of sweet flavor, it is a great choice for cooking. The nutritional value of one cup of cooked Kabocha - 49 calories, 1.8 grams protein, 0.2 grams of fat, and 8 grams of carbohydrate. Great news, this squash has a lower glycemic load than a sweet potato which won’t make the blood sugar spike. A great recipe to try is Korean Braised Kabocha Squash - The Plant-Based Wok (theplantbasedwok.com) Enjoy! Tips for growing: the Kabocha squash can be grown in full sun 6-8 hours on a trellis which gives height and interest to your garden landscape. The trellis will need a minimum of two to three supports hammered into the ground deep enough for the frame to hold the heavy plant laden with large fruit. The benefits of trellising for the plant are great air circulation and room to grow as each plant will need approximately 10 to 15 feet in length. The rich deep green of the Kabocha squash pairs nicely with orange pumpkins, yellow spaghetti squash, and blues of the Hubbard of the winter squash to create a visual feast for the eyes. Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), Foodblogga.blogspot.com (2)

Contact Dakota County Master Gardeners Volunteers We would love to hear from you! Visit our Speakers Bureau page if you are interested in having a Master Gardener speak to your group. Use the contact form on this page. Submit Thank you for contacting Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers. One of our volunteers will respond soon. Contact Information Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers 4100 220th St W #101 Farmington, MN 55024

About Us The mission of the Dakota County Extension Master Gardener program is to educate and assist the public by answering questions and solving problems about horticulture and related environmental topics. There are more than 130 Dakota County residents who are University of Minnesota Extension-trained and volunteer thousands of hours each year. Events & Workshops What We Do Extension Master Gardeners use up-to-date University information to provide education and horticulture resources. Teaching classes to youth and adults Speaking to groups Participating in community events and projects Conducting research Answering gardening questions online and by phone Partnering with other state and county organizations Learn more about the state Master Gardener program or how to become a Dakota County Master Gardener: State-wide Extension Master Gardener Volunteers program Dakota County Extension Master Gardener membership