< Back Pruning Tomato Plants For many of us, the thought of cutting off parts of a healthy plant is hard. Why would you want to do that? The answer is explained in this article about pruning tomato plants. Hint – pruning can protect your tomato plant from disease and produce more fruit – who doesn’t want more tomatoes? So, read on to learn more about why and how to prune your tomatoes for a successful crop. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the hardest things I do in the garden - emotionally, not physically - is pruning. The thought of cutting off healthy parts of a plant seems somehow wrong. But, in fact, it is one of the steps you can take to promote greater vegetable production in many varieties of plants, particularly tomatoes. Pruning is the process of selectively removing parts of a plant to promote healthy plant growth. Pruning can help increase fruit size and overall production. It can also help reduce the occurrence of diseases in the plant. A primary focus of pruning in tomatoes is on suckers. Suckers are the growth that appears at the intersection of two branches. These suckers compete with the primary stem causing an overabundance of vegetative growth and resulting in reduced flowering, fruit set, and yield. If you are hesitant to cut that healthy looking stem and leaf, remind yourself that you are growing the plant for the fruit it will produce, not for the foliage. Photo credit: Linda Stein Another reason to remove the suckers is that the removal of excess growth will promote air circulation in the plant allowing the plant to dry out more quickly after a rain or after watering. In addition, when I first plant my tomatoes, I prune some of the lower branches to reduces the risk of soil splatter that can bring diseases to the plant. Photo credit: Linda Stein However, in general the best time to do major pruning depends on the type of tomato plant you are growing – determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are those that grow to a predetermined height and produce all their fruit within a few weeks. These plants should be pruned when they get to be about 1 - 2 feet tall. Only prune those suckers that appear below the first fruit cluster . Research has shown that it doesn’t help to remove suckers above. Indeterminate tomatoes are those that continue to grow and produce over the course of the growing season. These plants should be pruned frequently along the full length of the plant. As soon as either of these plant types set fruit, it is suggested that you thin lower foliage and suckers to improve airflow and reduce the severity of leaf spot diseases. Prune by pinching off the growth you wish to remove. If the piece is too thick to pinch, cut with a clean shear. In all cases, do not prune more than 1/3 of the plant. Proper pruning as part of your gardening routine should help promote healthy plants with maximum yield. Here’s to a bumper crop of fresh tomatoes. References: How to Prune Tomatoes , Iowa State University, (YouTube) Pruning Greenhouse Tomatoes for Optimum Yield , https://e-gro.org/pdf/E208.pdf How to Properly Prune Your Tomatoes , LSU College of Agriculture, http://www.lsuagcenter.com/topics/lawn_garden/home_gardening/vegetables/home_garden_crops/pruningtomatoes Pruning Tomato Plants , UNH Cooperative Extension, https://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource000598_Rep620.pdf

< Back Blue Wild Indigo (Baptisia australis): A Plant to Dye For / With! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Ever wonder why Blue Wild Indigo is nicknamed “False Indigo.” Read the answer to this question and more about why you should consider this hardy native for a spot in your sunny garden. “Any flower this intense a blue must be good for dyes. It must be indigo!” or so thought early European settlers coming to the Eastern Seacoast and meeting Baptisia australis . Alas, the plant proved inferior to the real thing as a dye—Blue Indigo or Indigofera sp. Thus, it acquired its alternate name of False Indigo. Nonetheless, the intense blue bloom of blue wild Indigo justifies your adding it to your garden, even if you aren’t into textile dying! Blue wild indigo is found across the upper and Mid-Atlantic seaboard, extending into the Midwest. It grows well in dry to medium well-drained soil in full sun. It will tolerate part-shade but does get a bit spindly. It tends to form in expanding clumps which put down deep roots—thus, its tolerance of drought and poor soils. However, it’s not a good idea to disturb the plant and its roots once established. The plants can get three to four feet tall and spread out a similar length so some folks will trim them after blooming. This helps keep a more rounded shape but at the expense of removing the seed pods which form. These fellows are a delight! The pods can be 2 to 3 inches long, turning a charcoal black. The seeds are loose in the pod so they make a great rattle. If you aren’t into that, the cut stems and seed pods can make a striking addition to dried flower arrangements. Blue wild indigo can be grown from seed, but this is a slow process. Blooming usually doesn’t occur for several years. Baptisia australis is an herbaceous perennial. It is hardy from Zones 3 to 9 so it should be good to go throughout Minnesota. It usually blooms during May and June and attracts a number of pollinators, especially butterflies. It does well as a back border or a naturalizer in prairies or meadows. It is a tough customer with few insect or disease problems. It is, however sensitive to juglone, that antisocial chemical secreted by walnut trees, so don’t plant blue indigo around them. Otherwise, blue wild indigo can be a beautiful, low maintenance addition to your garden. Photo Credits: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)

< Back Enhance Your Home with Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is a vine that is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. It provides a unique old world vibe to celebrate the change in season, with no additional effort by you! Aside from saving money on seasonal decorating, Boston Ivy can also be used to cover up an outdated brick façade on your home – which is much more affordable than switching out the brick itself. If you desire a little more privacy or shade on your deck or patio, Boston Ivy can also be grown in a pot and trained to spread across a deck railing, fence, or pergola, just like a screen. Boston Ivy is very versatile and can be grown as a ground cover to provide a uniform look to a garden or wooded area or used for erosion control on a slope. Hardiness Zone Boston Ivy is native to Asia, Korea, Japan and eastern China, but grows well in US Zones 4-8 How to Grow P refers Sun and Part Shade Water well until established then water periodically. Prefers average to dry well-drained soil. Vine grows best on Eastern or Northern facings walls, but grows well on Western Walls too. T olerant of a wide range of soil types and urban pollution. Fast growing and can climb 30 to 40 feet Provides berries for birds in the Fall. Vine grows and travels via small “sucker disks” which can easily be pulled down off wall. May cause some speckling on painted siding or trim. Trim back undesired growth using a scissors periodically throughout growth season (e.g. around windows, doors, roofing, etc.) For more information go to University of Minnesota Extension: https://trees.umn.edu/boston-ivy-parthenocissus-tricuspidata References: Monrovia.com Yates.co.nz Photo credits: Yates.co.nz (1), Doreen Wynja (2, 3), Mary Barnidge (4)

< Back Planning to Promote Success in Your 2022 Vegetable Garden March is a great time to start to plan for your summer vegetable garden. Whether you’re planning your first vegetable garden or you’re an experienced vegetable gardener, there are things you can be doing to enhance the probability of a successful growing season. Linda Stein, Master Gardener Experienced gardeners review last year’s successes and failures. Some problems that you encountered may be indicative of issues that you may wish to address as you prepare for the upcoming growing season. If your vegetable plants had lush leaf growth but limited vegetables, it may be because your soil has excess nitrogen and/or inadequate phosphorus. When we experience a thaw and you can dig in your garden, you may wish to have a soil test to determine how to amend the soil to promote effective growth. Go to the University of Minnesota’s website ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden ) for details on how to submit a sample for testing. If you have been planting the same vegetables in the same locations you may have seen poorer harvests. As you prepare for the coming year consider rotating the location of specific plants to reduce damage from insect pests, limit the development of vegetable-specific diseases and manage soil fertility. Vegetables should be considered in the following groups: root vegetables, fruit-bearing vegetables, legumes, and leafy vegetables as you rotate the location of plants. So, for example, don’t plant fruit-bearing plants such as bell peppers where tomatoes were planted last year. Instead, plant legumes, root vegetables like carrots, or leafy vegetables such as lettuce. Many vegetables can be started from seeds, planted indoors and transplanted outdoors when the weather warms. March is the appropriate time to plant broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower seeds indoors so they are ready for the Minnesota growing season. If you are planning your first vegetable garden, consider the following: Review your yard to find a location that receives at least 6 hours of sun. Decide which vegetables you would like to grow. Some of the easiest ones to grow include lettuce, cucumbers, green beans, summer squash, root vegetables (such as radishes and carrots), bell peppers, tomatoes, and peas. Review online listings or plant catalogs to determine the specific variety of the vegetables to plant. Make sure the plant will survive in Minnesota’s climate. Also consider the production habit of the plant. Some varieties continue producing over a prolonged period of time while others produce all their fruit over a short period of time. Develop a layout for planting. Consider traditional straight rows or square foot layouts. Consider how many plants of each vegetable to plant. Some vegetables like to be planted close together while others prefer space to allow good air flow around the plant. Plant tall plants along the northern end of our garden so they don’t shade shorter plants. Send a soil sample to the University of Minnesota to determine how you should amend the soil to promote plant health and vegetable production. (See link to the soil testing site above.) Consider March the start of your vegetable growing season and prepare for success in your 2022 garden. Photo Credit: Linda Stein (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Southern Foodways Alliance (3)

< Back The Dakota County Seed Library This month we would like to tell you about the Dakota County Seed Library, located in the Farmington Library. Read on to learn about how this important project contributes to the support of pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices and, most importantly for you, the home gardener, how you can benefit from and contribute to this project. Lana Tullis with Julie Harris, Master Gardeners Dakota County Master Gardeners, in partnership with the Dakota County Library Foundation and Dakota County Natural Resources, maintain the seed library. The Seed Library provides residents and home gardeners with a diverse selection of heirloom and open-pollinated edibles, herbs, flowers and native plant seeds. This free resource is intended to promote the growth of healthy, flavorful food and preserve plant varieties by offering a number of heirloom varieties well suited for our climate but not commonly found in retail centers. These seeds allow you, the home gardener, to protect, preserve and share these valuable seeds. The Seed Library also offers native plant seeds that support pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices. These heirloom seeds are available to the public at the Farmington Library (508 3rd St., Farmington, MN 55024) while supplies last, beginning in March. A library card is not required, however, for the enjoyment of all, please consider limiting your selection to 5 packets per visit. The check out system is easy. Just select your seed packets, scan the QR code or fill out a checkout sheet and drop into the lockbox located near the seed cabinet. Each seed packet includes directions for planting and growing that are seed specific. The Farmington Seed Library was established about 5 years ago and has grown annually with generous donations from local and regional seed suppliers (Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, Albert Lea Select Seeds) along with local gardeners. Note that you can contribute to the seed library . Heirloom seed donations can be left at the Farmington Library. Please provide the original supplier packaging with “packaged for dates” of 2021 or later. Harvested, or saved, seeds from your garden may also be shared through our ‘share’ drawer. Throughout the winter, Master Gardener volunteers sort, label and organize donations for an estimated 3,000 - 4,000 seed packets. Volunteers also maintain inventory throughout the season, conduct demonstration plantings and are available to support your gardening plan. Lana Tullis is the project lead and is supported by Becky Peterson, BJ Hansell, Jackie Pospisil, Cynthia Muller, Patty Sutherland and Janet Schutte. Check out Heirloom and Native seeds at the Farmington Library - automatic renewal and no late fees! More information can be found at www.co.dakota.mn.us/libraries/Using/Seed . Photo Credit: Barbara Svoboda, Farmington Library Librarian (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back February - Starting Seeds Indoors Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil. By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers. If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings are growing vigorously in a warm humid environment. Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back How to Choose Just the Right Tree Karna Berg, Master Gardener Trees can add so much character to the landscape of your yard. But it’s important to choose a tree that meets your goals. After all, a tree you plant now may last a lifetime. When deciding to add a tree to your landscape there are many things to consider. This article will help you get started on what you need to research. Once you have decided you’d like a new tree in your yard, the hard part comes. There are so many possibilities to choose from, how does one choose? Here are some basics to consider along with a couple sources to give you more information. Answer these questions before heading to the nursey. First, ask yourself, why do I want a tree? Do you want it for shade, beauty, wildlife, privacy, fall color, fruit or something else? That will help you to immediately narrow your search. Then, consider the character of your home and yard. Do you have a large or small yard? Are there power lines overhead? Do you have sun? How about moisture, is your yard wet or dry? You probably don’t want a tree that will overpower your house, hit power lines, die from lack of sun, or need constant watering. Now, consider the amount of time you want to spend caring for this tree. Do you want to be constantly trimming it, picking fruit, cleaning up the mess it makes, or wrapping it for winter? Or do you want a low care tree? River Birch None of these answers will come just from looking at the tag at the nursery. You must do some thinking and a little research on your own. For example, it is not wise to rely on the tag to tell you how tall and wide the tree will get. It seems that most plants grow larger than what the tag tells you. Here are a few suggestions. If you want a tree for shade, you are looking for a deciduous tree that will lose its leaves in the winter. And you probably want some height. But make sure it is not so wide it hits your house or shades your vegetable garden. There are now some beautiful deciduous trees that get no wider than about 5 feet. If you want beauty, you are looking for an ornamental tree. There are many to pick from. Read about the blooms or other color the tree will provide. Be aware that generally, these trees will do best in full sun. They vary widely in height so pick the size to fit your spot. And be sure to consider the zone listed on the tag. While some gardeners have had luck with zone 5 trees and plants, it is always chancy. A beautiful Japanese maple I had in my yard suddenly died during a winter of extreme temperature changes. And that seems to be the way our winters are going. Crabapple Red Splendor If you want privacy, go for an evergreen tree that will not shed its needles in the winter. A good choice would be a type of arborvitae. While we could not cover all the issues in selecting a tree, the University of Minnesota Extension has some great resources on choosing the right tree. Click this link to find recommended trees for Minnesota, trees for pollinators, trees for shady area and more. And check out this Minnesota Department of Natural Resources site for advice on choosing the “right” tree. Choose well and you will enjoy many years with the new tree in your yard. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back Eating Bitter Melon Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern What’s the big deal with bitter melon? I mean, it’s bitter even when it’s mature! What would compel someone to eat it? Believe it or not, this bumpy and sometimes spiky little vegetable has been eaten for centuries by various cultures around the world who have learned to embrace and even enjoy that bitterness. At the same time, they have also reaped its nutritional benefits. Read on to learn more about the benefits of bitter melon and how to enjoy eating it! Bitter melon has long been used in traditional medicine to treat various kinds of ailments, most notably diabetes. In developing countries in Asia, Africa, Central and South America it has also been used to treat dysmenorrhea, eczema, gout, leprosy, psoriasis, gout, and even scabies. In developed nations, recent animal and clinical studies of bitter melon extract have shown that it has potential therapeutic benefit in diabetes and obesity related metabolic dysfunction.1 Does the above information encourage you to give it a try the next time you see it at your local farmers’ market? Maybe the following recipe will. I consulted with my favorite Filipino friends, Teddie and Leila Maasin, to find a recipe that could be enjoyed by someone trying bitter melon for the first time and they shared this one (with my edits ): Vegetable Fritters 4 cups of prepared vegetables to include the following: 1 thinly sliced Chinese bitter melon 1 shredded medium sweet potato (I used a Murasaki sweet potato ) 1 large, shredded carrot 1 chopped medium onion 1 to 2 cups chopped spinach or celery leaves ( or whatever leafy greens you have ) 2 beaten eggs 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup cornstarch Black pepper to taste Vegetable ( or peanut ) oil for deep frying To prepare bitter melon, slice lengthwise, remove seeds and spongy pith, and thinly slice in cross sections. Soak slices for 1 hour in salted water to remove some of the bitterness, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible and place slices in a large mixing bowl. Add and mix in the remaining vegetables, then stir in beaten eggs until well combined with the vegetables. Now would be a good time to start heating your vegetable oil in a deep saucepan or frying pan. (Don’t forget to have a pan cover handy!) In a smaller mixing bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, 1 ½ teaspoons salt, and black pepper to taste. Add this mixture to the larger mixing bowl with the vegetables and mix until you have a vegetable-laden batter. Pre-form patties from this batter, adding flour or water to get them to hold together. Fry patties in hot oil until medium brown, then remove them to a platter lined with paper towels to wick up excess oil. I like to serve these vegetable fritters with sweet chili sauces like these: Obviously, the recipe featured above is not the most healthful of bitter melon recipes due to the deep-frying cooking method. If you’d like to try another, just look for any of the numerous stir-fry recipes available on the Internet. As a bonus, the Journal of Lipids reference article linked below contains a “typical recipe of a bitter melon dish popular in Bangladesh”, called Bitter Melon Fry with Potato. Check it out! 1 J Lipids. 2015; 2015: 496169 Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1,2,3

< Back Investigating Insects in the Garden Mary Gadek, Master Gardener Calling all Family Insect Investigators! Along with plants and people enjoying the summer, many insects are traveling around in our yards and parks, too. Gather your family and friends in July to investigate insects in the Minnesota outdoors. Learn how to identify insects from other types of bugs, view some common Minnesota insects and how to do your own investigations of these creatures. Insects are bugs but not all bugs are insects There are many types of bugs in the world, like insects or spiders. Scientists that study bugs, called entomologists , group bugs into different categories. One category is insects . When you are looking around to find insects, use this insect checklist to determine if it is an insect or not: Three basic regions of the insect body- A. Head - (front of body) includes an antenna, eyes and mouth parts; B. Thorax - (middle of body) has three pairs of walking legs; C. Abdomen - (back of body) contains a heart, reproductive organs and digestive system. 2. Legs - depending on the insect, the legs are shaped to help carry out their day to day activities, including swimming or holding prey. 3. A pair of compound eyes - their eyes can see multiple images that appear like many dots and can judge distance and movement with ease. The special eyes allow the insects to catch their prey to eat. 4. Antennae - The body segment located on the head helps the insects smell and taste, and, sometimes, determine air currents. Some insects have wings, while some do not. For more details, see: https://www.amentsoc.org/insects/what-bug-is-this/insects.html Insects found in Minnesota Our Minnesota yards and parks contain many different insects. Many are pollinators , which help fertilize our plants so more plants can grow. Pollinators are important because we rely on the earth’s plants to give humans and earth’s creatures food to live. Here are some insects you can find in Minnesota: Bumble bees These very hairy creatures are usually 3/8 - 3/4 inch long with black and yellow or orange striped bodies. Bumble bees pollinate our plants. Nests can be found in the ground or little spaces of a garden, like in a retaining wall. 2. Honey bees are about ½” long, with a golden brown color, a fuzzy body and wings. They are pollinators , which help fertilize our plants so they can grow. 3. Ladybugs More than 50 species of native lady bugs reside in Minnesota. They have many names, but are all the same insect: ladybugs, lady beetles or ladybird beetles. When full grown, most ladybugs have domed, hard, round to oval bodies, usually with a red color with black spots, but some with black, yellow, pink, and orange shells. Gardens benefit from ladybugs because they are pollinators as well as eaters of some insects that harm plants. 4. Butterflies Minnesota hosts many types of butterflies for their short life of about 4-6 weeks during mid-Summer (See list of Minnesota butterflies at: https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/list-of-butterflies-in-minnesota/ ). The orange and black monarchs hold the title of “Minnesota State Butterfly”. As these beautiful insects fly from plant to plant, they pollinate our plants, too. 5. Ants A common ant in Minnesota’s outdoors is a field ant . In July through September, look for the black, brown or red creature measuring 1/8 to 1/4 inch long in exposed dirt areas, making dirt mounds up to 10 inches across. They can also nest under objects, such as wood, stones, and patio blocks. The ants benefit our gardens because they eat live and dead insects. Investigate Want to be an Insect Investigator this summer?! Using the information in this article, head outside to your yard or local park to do one or all of these fun, family activities : Scavenger Hunt: Look high and low in your yard or local park to see if you can find the following common insects described in this article: bumble bees, honey bees, ladybugs, butterflies and ants. Extra Challenge Scavenger Hunt- Gather family and friends along with some paper, pencils and a timer. Set the timer for 10 minutes (or whatever time limit you wish). See who can find and write down the most of the listed insects (can find repeats) before your timer goes off. The winner can be declared the “Insect Champion of the Day.” Try again later in the season to see if everyone finds more, less or about the same amount of insects compared to the first challenge. Insect Hotel- You can make a “hotel” for insects to live in and for you to watch them live in your garden. Using a clear, clean container, with at least one opening, such as a recycled plastic bottle, carefully remove the top with the help of a grown up. Gather outside leaves, flowers, sticks and other natural items and put them inside the container. Now you have an “insect hotel”! Place the filled container in a location in your yard where you can observe any insects that come to live in your “insect hotel”. Use your investigative skills to determine if you found an insect or if it is a little creature from another bug category. Keep a journal or take pictures of all the insects you see. To continue more investigation, find out more through these programs in Minnesota: READ I Love Bugs! Philemon Sturges A book for younger learners with simple, yet useful descriptions of common bugs. Available at: Dakota County Library, ISBN: 9780060561680, 978006056169, or on Amazon Bugs!Bugs!Bugs! Bob Barber Colorful book for younger children describing common bugs in our yards and containing a useful chart to assist with identification. Available at: Dakota County Library, Digital Format or Amazon References : https://www.amentsoc.org/insects/what-bug-is-this/insects.html https://extension.umn.edu/wildlife/wild-pollinators https://extension.umn.edu/beneficial-insects/lady-beetles https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-butterfly-monarch/ https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/list-of-butterflies-in-minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/insects-infest-homes/ants#odorous-house-ant-42365 https://extension.umn.edu/projects-and-more/4-h-entomology-project Photo Credit: Mark Gadek (1,2,4,5) & University of Minnesota Extension (3,6) & Philemon Sturges (7,8)

< Back Overwinter Geraniums the Correct Way As the end of the growing season appears it may be sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end. Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s never too early to start thinking about final garden projects as we near the end of our growing season. Sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end? Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Overwintered geraniums are an early memory of mine. I distinctly remember running down the basement stairs of my grandparent’s home and being struck with the scent of the potted geraniums, lined up across the west facing window; the vibrant colors, a welcome contrast to the bright white winter landscape outside. There are two main ways to overwinter your geraniums, both of which need to be done before the first frost: Potted While my grandparents chose to keep tending to their geraniums through the winter months in their original pots, you might keep your geraniums in planters or heavy pots that would be impossible to move indoors. If you want to keep the plants potted, you can transplant them into smaller indoor pots by carefully digging up the root ball, and replanting into the pot of your choice. Before bringing the plant indoors, check for any pests trying to hitch a ride and remove any dead leaves. Now is also a good time to trim back any dead stems. Place your potted plant in front of a bright window or under florescent lights, and water every 1-2 weeks once the top of the soil dries out. Bare Root The enemy of the bare rooted geranium is moisture. That said, you have two options when you are ready to pull your geraniums in for the winter: 1) you can wait for the soil to dry out before digging up the root ball, or 2) you can dig the root ball out of the soil, tapping off any remaining dirt and then let your plant sit out for a day or so to ensure that all excess moisture has evaporated. As with your potted geranium option, be sure to inspect your plant for any pests and cut away any dead leaves, buds or flowers. The objective for this overwintering method is to encourage the plant into dormancy and not spend any energy into supporting existing or new growth. You also have a few housing options for your plant: 1) paper bag (think landscape or grocery), 2) cardboard box or 3) tied up at the root to hang upside down. Each of these options ensures good ventilation which is critical to help ward off excess moisture and darkness, which will lull the plant into dormancy. Place your bag or box in a cool dry location such as a basement, root cellar or shed – anywhere where temperatures will remain around 55-65 degrees. Check on your plant about once a month to inspect for mold or other disease and manage as needed. Getting Ready for Spring – Breaking Dormancy About 6-8 weeks before the last frost day, inspect your plants and trim them back by one-half to two-thirds. Don’t be alarmed if your plant has lost many or all of its leaves. Plant the geranium in a pot, give it a good watering and set it in front of a bright window. Patience and care should generate the first signs of growth in the coming days and weeks and by time the risk of frost has passed, you’ll be weeks ahead of any store-bought geraniums available to gardeners. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back Humidity and Indoor Plants Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you filling your winter gardening needs by growing houseplants? If so, you’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes is dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants . . . and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. In this article, Master Gardener Linda Stein provides advice about how providing humidity to your plants can help them through the winter. You’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes has become dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants…and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. Insufficient humidity may cause browning and brittleness around the edges of the plant’s leaves. Succulent plants, of course, tolerate a lower humidity environment. With this in mind, it’s important to provide added humidity to the non-succulent plants that you are growing in your home. According to an entry in the website from Nebraska Extension, “The Mayo Clinic recommends indoor humidity stay between 30-50% for human health and comfort, but many homes have much lower humidity levels. For plants, humidity requirements vary by species, but generally 70-80% is best.” So in almost all situations, the addition of humidity should be a part of your indoor plant care. There are a number of options available for adding humidity. Use of a Humidifier : A home humidifier is probably the simplest way to increase humidity throughout your home. That will, of course, benefit not only your plants, but also the people residing in the home. However, this method will not increase the humidity level to the amount required by your non succulent plants. Misting : Another option is to mist your plants. Misting is frequently discouraged because the impact is short lived. In addition, water standing on your plant can promote diseases and/or the development of mold. Pebble Tray : To increase humidity, pots containing your plants can be placed on a one-to-two-inch-deep tray filled with pebbles. Add water to the tray. As the water evaporates, it provides humidity for the plant. Grouping plants : Plants located in close proximity to each other can benefit each other. The moisture released by the leaves of the plants can increase the humidity around the group of plants. Use of a bell jar cover : A bell jar placed over a plant can trap the moisture created by water evaporating from the soil and from moisture released by the plant’s leaves. Placement over heat source : If your home has a radiator, floor vents, or a wood stove these can be helpful. By placing plants over these objects, the heat can create the humidity needed by them. Locating plants in a kitchen or bathroom: The two rooms with the most humidity in the house are the kitchen and bathroom. So, if the light available in those rooms is adequate, they are the best location for plants requiring added humidity. So, to promote the health of your house plants, make sure your plants are receiving the right type light, water, fertilizer and soil composition. But don’t forget your plants’ need for necessary air humidity around them. Try the tips in this article for happy houseplants. https://lancaster.unl.edu/houseplants-humidity#:~:text=Grouping plants together can also, pocket of slightly higher humidity. Photo credit: Linda Stein (1-4)

< Back How to Avoid Problems When Gardening on your Deck Gardening on your deck or patio provides a number of benefits. It enables those in a multi-unit building an opportunity to grow plants outdoors. It provides an opportunity for those with physical limitations to garden. Growing plants on your deck or patio is a strategy for adding beauty and it might provide an opportunity to grow edibles near your kitchen. But gardening on a deck or patio does present its own potential problems. Read this article to learn how to avoid problems and how to deal with them if they occur. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Just as there are potential issues to consider when planting in the ground, there are ones that might reduce your potential to have a successful container garden outdoors. Limited Space Not all plants are appropriate for growing in a container. Since most decks or patios have limited space, you want to avoid plants that require a lot of ground space. Consider plants that can grow along trellises or can hang over the edges of your container. Select plants that are recommended for pots and therefore will fit better into small spaces. When buying plants, think about the size when they have been with you for a period of time . . . not the size at the time of purchase. Getting Adequate Sun The direction your deck faces is only one factor to consider when determining how much sun light the plants will receive. In addition, watch for trees or other structures that might obstruct the sun. Remember that the sun’s path changes as we move from spring to summer to autumn. So, trees and overhangs will have a different impact at different times in the growing season. Prevent Other Environmental Factors from Negatively Impacting Plants Heat might be a bigger factor when growing in pots. Darker pots absorb the sun’s rays causing the soil to heat up and dry out more quickly. Consider using lighter colored pots if you are noting that your plants are requiring frequent watering. Also watering your plants mid-day can cool your plants. Consider the impact of wind on your plants and on the pots in which you are growing. If your deck is higher in your building or in a location that is exposed to significant wind there are several things you might consider. · Use clay pots instead of plastic pots since they are heavier. · Select plants that are less susceptible to the wind. The following are characteristics of plants that will more readily survive in windy conditions: o Shorter plants; o Plants with smaller and narrower leaves that would be less likely to be damaged by wind; o Plants with larger root systems that more effectively anchor the plant; and o Plants that like drier conditions since the wind will dry out the soil more quickly. Beware of Pests Pests can find plants even if they are not in the ground. Different pests can be found in the soil of your container, on the exterior of the container or on the plants themselves. Many of these pests may be a nuisance but will not cause permanent damage to your plant. The University of Minnesota Extension’s Yard and Garden website is an excellent source to help identify the specific pests that are impacting your plant and to determine how to address them. Photo credits: Scaniazblogspot.com (all creative commons) (1), www.Kittlingbooks.com (all creative commons) (2)