< Back Glorious Amaryllis Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with large, stunning blooms that can be grown as a houseplant year-round. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with blooms averaging 4 to 10 inches and can even be grown as a houseplant year around. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. My summer flowers are faded with the first frosts of fall, and the spring bulbs are planted and resting before their show in a few months. It’s about this time of year that I start to really think about Amaryllis. Amaryllis bulbs and blooms start appearing more frequently in stores with their holiday shades of red, pink, white and more - ready to keep us flower gardeners happy with blooms inside while the cold Minnesota weather settles in. Amaryllis are native to warmer climates. The bulbs we generally see for purchase as houseplants in our part of the world are hybrids of the genus Hippeastrum , and are native to Central and South America. Let’s talk about how to grow these beauties here in Minnesota. Growing Amaryllis Amaryllis grow best in narrow containers - about 1 inch diameter wider than the largest part of the bulb, and twice as tall. Soil should be able to drain freely from container - Amaryllis do not like to sit in water and can rot if left too wet. One third to one half of the bulb should still be visible above the soil, and the bulb should sit up over the edge of the container. Water thoroughly after planting and allow the water to drain. Then water only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch. Place the pot on a saucer in a sunny window until flower buds begin to open, then move the plant out of direct sunlight. Keep Your Amaryllis Plant Healthy and Flowering for Years Amaryllis can be grown actively all year, and, with some care, will continue to rebloom. Once the flowers are finished blooming, snip them off so the plant doesn’t put energy into creating seed pods. Let the green foliage continue to have sunlight so the bulb can store energy through photosynthesis. Unlike some bulbs, Amaryllis does not require a dormant period in order to bloom and rebloom. However, you can try to time blooms by allowing the plant to go dormant in a cool, dry, dark location for 8 to12 weeks without water or feeding. Then bring the plant out into a sunny place and resume normal watering and fertilizing with a high phosphorus content (about half the strength the package recommendation) and expect blooms in 4 to 6 weeks. Potted Amaryllis can also be taken outside in Minnesota during warmer months. They will need to gradually spend time outside to acclimate to the outdoors, and then find a location with at least six hours of sun. Just set the pot out in a sunny spot, or stick the whole pot into the ground in the garden. Amaryllis will not survive frost or freezing temperatures, so they will need to be brought back inside before cold temperatures arrive. It is not necessary to repot Amaryllis plants from season to season. In fact, they prefer to be somewhat potbound for the best blooms. The best time to repot Amaryllis plants is after they’ve gone through a dormant period, and then they will likely only need to be repotted with fresh sterile soil about every 3-4 years. For more information on Amaryllis, and many more houseplants, check out the University of Minnesota - Extension website . Happy Growing! Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4), University of Minnesota Extension (5, 6)

< Back Growing Garlic If you are looking for a quick "how to" on growing garlic here's a resource for you. Stacy Reeves, Master Gardener While not to judge a book by its length, this cute little bulletin about garlic growing, written by Glenn Andrews, proves to be as digestible as many of the recipes it contains. This volume of A Storey Country Wisdom Bulletin could have read like a textbook on the dos and don’ts of sowing garlic, but thanks to Andrews’ passion for this "stinky rose," it has moments that read like a love story. As a fellow garlic lover, I enjoyed this concise yet pleasant book and felt comradery with Andrews as he gushed about the ease he finds in growing garlic and the rich and gorgeous flavors garlic lends to nearly any recipe. He outlines its growing season, soil requirements, and harvest routines and encourages even the unprepared gardeners to just pop a clove in the ground as an experiment. My only critique of this succinct read is that it fails to mention a very significant way to pack even more garlic goodness into Minnesota kitchens - through harvesting garlic scapes, of course! Though Andrews does instruct growers to remove flowers from stalks to redirect energy to their bulbs, he doesn't highlight the culinary value this pruning could offer. As the scapes of hardneck garlic are one of the best parts about it, I'd recommend that this bulletin be paired with a chat with an experienced Master Gardener or a review of the seed catalog instructions from growers' seed garlic orders. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Book Jacket (1)

< Back How to Care for Blueberry Bushes This Spring Do you love to eat blueberries? No blueberries are better than the ones you grow in your yard. If you are growing blueberry bushes in your yard or want to do so, read this article for some tips on what you can do this spring to help your blueberry bushes flourish. Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener I love to eat blueberries and also wanted to add some bushes to my yard for pollinators and privacy and beauty. So, adding a few blueberry bushes seemed to be a good option. We planted 5 blueberry bushes a couple of years ago and have moved them around the yard a couple of times, trying to find a location where they would thrive. In the process, I’ve learned several things that you can do for your blueberries in early spring before they’ve even budded that will help them thrive. Blueberries have very shallow roots, so remove all weeds and grasses that may have grown up around the bushes, then add a layer of mulch 3-4 inches thick. After that, look carefully at your bushes and prune out any dead or dying branches. Also prune out any conflicting growth; branches that are growing into the center or crossing over or rubbing against other branches. Another thing to do is to step back and look at the overall shape of your bush and prune so it has a balanced look on all sides. For smaller branches, use a bypass pruning shears or snips. For larger more mature bushes and branches, use a pruning saw. You should do this pruning while the bush is fully dormant, and no buds have formed. Blueberries need an acidic soil with a pH between 4.5 -5.5. There are a couple of ways to amend the soil around your blueberry bushes. You can use elemental sulfur pellets available at Walmart, Fleet Farm, Ace Hardware and on Amazon. Wear gloves when you apply. Wait to apply until the soil temperature is at least 55 degrees. Sprinkle 2 handfuls in a ring around the plant, on top of the mulch and then lightly rub it into the mulch. You can also use a fertilizer that has a 5-3-3 balance or get a fertilizer like Plant Tone or Holly Tone. These are usually promoted as evergreen and azalea food (those plants also like a more acidic soil). Only fertilize once this year. Then you should add a layer of compost 2-3 inches thick in a 2-foot diameter ring around your bushes. Make sure your compost smells like grass, not garbage, to ensure that it is fully composted. Next add 3 inches of a natural mulch, not dyed. For example, bark mulch, woodchips, cedar or hay, or pine straw. Mini pine bark nuggets are mildly acidic and can help acidify your soil. Make an 18–24-inch ring around your bushes, 2-3inches deep. The last step is to wet down the entire area. Keep in mind that doing all these things, like adding compost and mulch, won’t last all year. Check your bushes throughout the growing season watching for decomposition, bare soil, and/or weeds starting to creep in. Pull the weeds, reapply a 2–3-inch layer of mulch as needed. Then look forward to a delicious blueberry harvest. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Joy Johnson (2-6)

< Back Snack on Celery Kristen Andrews, Master Gardener Intern Celery, while a delicious treat, can be a challenge for the home gardener to grow. Learn how you can start your own celery plants indoors and have a harvest of this versatile vegetable, early or late, into the growing season! Ants on a log I have fond memories of snack time as a child, munching on “ants on a log.” Those familiar with the treat know there are three main components: the ants (chocolate chips and/or raisins), the glue to stick the ants on the log (usually peanut butter), and the log (a crisp piece of celery). The star of the snack, a crisp piece of celery, has been produced commercially since the early 1800s. Celery is part of the Apiaceae (or carrot) family. These plants are known for their hollow stems, taproots, and flat-topped flower clusters. Other familiar plants in this family are dill, fennel, and cumin. Growing celery at home may be difficult, but the harvest serves as an excellent reward for anyone up for the challenge. There are two main types of celery: Trenching and Self-blanching. Trenching celery requires extra care to ensure the stalks are protected, whereas self-blanching does not. The taste of self-blanching celery may be a little more muted, but is generally easier to grow. Two recommended self-blanching varieties are Utah and Pascal. For the home grower, celery does best when started indoors, 10-12 weeks before the last spring frost date, for a spring crop. A fall crop can also be started indoors, 10-12 weeks before the first fall frost date. Transplant outdoors once temperatures are above 50F during the day, and no lower than 40F during the night. Celery's three main needs are: cool weather, water, and rich, organic matter soil. Celery Celery can be harvested by removing the outer stalk layer leaving the rest of the plant to continue growth. The plant can also be left to grow up to 3-inches in diameter and then all the stalks harvested as a whole. Cool temperatures and water will continue the growth of the plant. The rooty, stalk structured plant with leafy greens has many uses. The stalks are regularly consumed and used in everything from stir-fry to broth, or simply consumed raw. Less popular, but still edible, are the leafy greens on the top of the plant. Those can be added to salads or minced and used as a seasoning. If looking for new and innovative celery uses, Taste of Home has 28 Non-Boring Ways to Use Celery . Sources: https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/celery-in-the-garden https://www.almanac.com/plant/celery https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/vegetables https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Apiaceae-2038061 https://www.tasteofhome.com/collection/non-boring-celery-recipes/ Photo Credit: Brian Talbot, Flickr (1) & Buuz, Wikimedia (2)

< Back Vegetables of Asian Origin That Thrive in Minnesota Community gardeners are increasingly interested in expanding their growing practices to include crops that originated in cultures other than their own. As Minnesotans, we have some options for growing vegetables that can be used in global cuisines and also promote sustainability. This article highlights three vegetables that originated in Asia, but with the right conditions and care, can also be grown in Minnesota. Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The vegetables featured here originated in East Asia, a region that includes parts of Korea, China, and Japan. These vegetables have long been staple crops in traditional gardening environments and can adapt well to Minnesota's climate. With seasonal timing planned and soil conditions prepared in advance, we can grow these vegetables successfully. Growing them offers Minnesota gardeners an opportunity to honor global food heritage while diversifying our gardens and diets. Bok Choy (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) These leafy plants have been cultivated in China for thousands of years and are foundational to East Asian cuisines. Bok choy grows in an upright clump of dark green leaves, with very thick green or white stalks.1 They are versatile in the kitchen; commonly used in stir fries, soups and fermented preparations like kimchi. They can also be used as fillings for dishes such as egg rolls and dumplings. A great ingredient for homemade sauerkraut,2 Bok choy is packed with calcium and vitamins A and C, making it a nutrient-rich addition to the garden. Growing Considerations : As a cool-season vegetable, this plant is well-suited to Minnesota’s spring and fall growing seasons. Seeds can be started indoors or direct-sown in early spring. A second planting in late summer often performs better due to fewer pest issues but plant no later than late July. Soil & Care : They prefer fertile moist soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. They can benefit from row covers that can protect against common pests. Harvesting : Bok choy matures in 30 to 45 days. You can harvest Bok Choy a few leaves at a time instead of waiting for the full head to develop. Bok Choy Japanese Cucumber (Cucumis sativus var. japonicus) This Japanese-originating cucumber is great for both pickling and eating fresh. While this is a warm weather crop, its growing conditions are not too dissimilar from common variety cucumbers! In Japan, these cucumbers are often thinly sliced and served with vinegar, sesame, or miso-based dressings. Planting Tips : Start seeds indoors in late April or sow directly outdoors in late May, after all danger of frost has passed.3, 4 Growing Conditions : Growing with a trellis is optimal as this provides support for vertical growth and encourages airflow. Make sure to water regularly to avoid bitter fruit! Harvest : Pick when 8 to 10 inches long for best flavor and texture. Frequent harvesting over the growing season will encourage continual production. Japanese Cucumber Shishito Pepper (Capsicum annuum) The shishito pepper is a wrinkly small pepper from Japan known for its subtle flavor. These peppers are commonly blistered in oil and sprinkled with sea salt, which brings out their sweet grassy flavor. Its ‘easy to cook’ nature and taste have made it a popular snack food throughout the U.S.! Gardening instructions for more familiar peppers can be followed for this variety as well!5 Starting Indoors : Like most peppers, shishito should be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost and transplanted outdoors once night time temperatures stay consistently above 55°F.6 Soil & Sunlight : Requires full sun and well-draining soil. Make sure to utilize a balanced fertilizer (if necessary) to ensure continual fruit production during the growing season. Harvest Time : Pick when the peppers are about 3 to 4 inches long and still green. They can be harvested throughout the season. Shishito Pepper These Asian originating vegetables demonstrate that with just a little planning and care, we can grow our gardens to help expand our diets and try new things. Incorporating one or any of these options into your growing space not only broadens your culinary possibilities, but also introduces you to agricultural traditions that have been around for centuries, from all over the globe. While these crops are not indigenous to Minnesota, they perform well in our short growing seasons. Look for heirloom or traditional varieties from seed catalogs specializing in global crops, such as Kitazawa Seed Company , Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds , or Seed Savers Exchange . Remember: As gardeners, we don’t have to go very far to explore the world. References : https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-chinese-cabbage-and-bok-choy#harvest-and-storage-790562 https://extension.umn.edu/preserving-and-preparing/how-make-your-own-sauerkraut https://greg.app/when-to-plant-japanese-cucumber/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-cucumbers#insects-3252210 https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-peppers#disorders-3281462 https://www.gardenary.com/blog/how-to-grow-shishito-peppers Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1), www.flickr.com (2,3)

< Back Growing Ginger Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Read this article to learn the steps to grow ginger successfully. Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Here are the steps to grow ginger: Choose the right ginger: You can buy ginger roots from the grocery store or garden center. Look for pieces that are plump, with firm skin, and have several eye buds, which are small yellowish tips on the surface of the ginger. Prepare the soil: Ginger prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Add compost or well-rotted manure to the soil to improve fertility and drainage. Plant the ginger: Cut the ginger into small pieces, making sure each piece has at least one eye bud. Plant each piece about 2 inches deep, with the eye facing up, and space them about 6 inches apart. Water regularly: Ginger needs to be watered regularly, but make sure not to overwater it as it can cause the root to rot. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Provide warm temperatures: Ginger grows best in warm temperatures. Ideally, the temperature should be between 70 - 80 °F during the day and 60 -70°F at night. Provide shaded light: Ginger prefers partial shade and indirect sunlight. If growing indoors, place the ginger in a bright room with indirect sunlight. Harvest ginger: Ginger takes about 8 – 10 months to mature. Once the stems begin to turn yellow and die, it is time to harvest. Carefully dig up the ginger roots without damaging them. By following these steps, you can grow delicious ginger at home! Photo Credit: www.flavorexplosions.com (all creative commons)

< Back Straight Info on Zigzag Iris: Iris brevicaulis Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener There are many beautiful varieties of iris that you can choose from for your garden. This article discusses one type of iris that may not be as well known but definitely deserves your consideration - the zigzag iris. The zigzag iris is a native usually found in moist areas of the wild. When they bloom in the spring they put on a striking display of blues and yellows. If you are looking for a gorgeous springtime accent to your pond or stream side or the more moist areas of your garden, Zigzag iris is sure to be a stunning addition. The zigzag iris - given the effort put into creating a staggering variety of iris cultivars, it is amazing how beautiful this native creation is. It’s not “gussied up” with carefully selected genetic traits. Rather its genome has been perfected by thousands of years living on the prairie’s pond sides and river banks. As you might expect, zigzag iris is a hardy and prolific fellow. Although it is usually found in the wild in moist areas of woodlands or by water, it grows quite well in normal garden soil. Native to the Central states of North America it is hardy from USDA Zones 4 to 8, although its natural occurrence in Ontario would make me think you folks up in Duluth can probably plant them in sheltered areas. Zigzag iris blooms in the spring from April to early July, producing blooms ranging in color from violet-blue, to lavender, to purple-blue, to bright blue to blue, and pale blue with yellow and white crested falls (the petals that hang downward). These fellows usually range from 9 to 12 inches in height so you usually don’t have to stake them like their gargantuan German bearded iris cousins. They also spread about 9 to 12 inches. Zigzag iris does best in full sun, (greater than 6 hours of direct sun) but will also do pretty well in part shade (2-6 hours). The plant gets its common name from the peculiarities of its stem. The flower usually is at a 45 degree angle to it. It not infrequently pops up in local nurseries although it is sometimes referred to as Lamance iris or Short-stemmed iris. The easiest way to propagate zigzag iris is by dividing its rhizomes. This is best done from late summer to early spring when the plants are dormant. You will want to dig them in about 6 inches with lots of organic material to promote root growth. If fertilizing this is best done in the very early spring. Be patient as it can take 3 to 4 years until you get good flowering. Once established they usually require little maintenance aside from some division after 4 to 5 years. Deer usually don’t bother them too much. It depends on how hungry they are! Illustration of Iris brevicaulis So, if you are looking for a gorgeous springtime accent to your pond or stream side or the more moist areas of your garden, Zigzag iris is sure to be a stunning addition. Photo credits: Eric Hunt Wikimedia Commons (1), Addisonia , Wikimedia Commons (2)

< Back All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition “All New Square Foot Gardening” is an updated version of square foot gardening principles first introduced 40 years ago. The basic philosophy of this gardening method remains the same but this book demonstrates how the method has been refined and improved. Growing vegetables in your backyard is both possible and fun! Mel Bartholomew Reviewed by Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener This is an updated version of the tried-and-true Square Foot Gardening principles first introduced in 1981 by Mel Bartholomew. Bartholomew believed that everyone should be able to enjoy freshly harvested produce, that gardening should be fun, easy to understand and successful. The method saves land and water and is efficient. The Square Foot Gardening Foundation, started by Bartholomew, hopes this update will encourage new gardeners. SFG’s philosophy of reducing garbage by composting, less fuel to transport food, eating fresh and more salads, less water usage, no fertilizers, and no plastic waste, will appeal to a new group of gardeners. This publication includes multiple pictures of square and other shaped gardens followed by tips for attractive vertical gardening for beans, peas, squash, and more. The book emphasizes planting what you want to eat with a specific number of plants. Limited planting causes less waste and results in vegetables and salad greens for you to eat. The update doesn’t offer major changes to Square Foot Gardening philosophy but the system has been even further refined and improved to fully meet today's changing resources, needs, and challenges. This book should encourage home gardeners to understand that growing vegetables in their backyard is both possible and fun! Photo Credit: All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition (1)

< Back Companion Gardens Are the Best Linda Stein confesses that she used to arrange her garden by separating annuals from perennials from vegetables. But she has learned that there are many advantages to mixing these different types of plants in the garden. Read this article to learn more about why you would want to mix these plant types and what types of plants you might consider. As you prepare for the upcoming summer, learn more about mixing and matching your edible plants with flowering perennials and annuals to enhance the beauty of your garden, attract pollinators to plants that will benefit from these critters and reduce the need for pesticides by providing plants that serve as natural repellants. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Historically, I prepared three garden plans, one for my vegetable garden; one for the garden that would house annual plants (those that cannot survive our winters); and one for additions to my perennial garden (plants that will grow year after year). However, I’ve learned that my planning should consider how to combine rather than separate these three groups of plants. This article will address the benefits of companion gardening. Season-long color To promote season-long color, consider placing annual plants next to perennials. Most perennials bloom for a short period of time. So, adding annuals is an excellent way to enhance the color in your flower garden. Not only are annual flowers relatively easy to grow but they also provide instant and season-long color. Attracting pollinators Many pollinators are attracted to the blossoms on annual and perennial plants. By locating these plants next to vegetable plants, you can encourage the pollinators to visit your vegetable plants and at the same time add beauty to your garden. Annuals are an excellent addition to your vegetable garden because, as stated above, they bloom continuously throughout the season providing a steady supply of nectar to butterflies and other pollinators. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, studies have shown that the annual flowers listed below are most attractive to pollinators: Music Box Mix Sunflower Lemon Queen Sunflower Summer Pink Jewel Salvia Purple Fairy Tale Saliva Orange Fudge Black-eyed Susan Prairie Sun Black-eyed Susan Showstar Butter Daisy Dakota Gold Sneezeweed Envy Zinnia Also, perennial plants such as coneflowers, lilac, butterfly weed and asters are very attractive to butterflies and so should be considered as a neighbor plant to vegetable plants requiring pollination. Natural pest control Some plants can serve to repel specific pests. So, locating these plants near vegetable plants that are vulnerable to certain pests can serve as a natural repellant. For example, basil and marigolds have been found to be effective in reducing thrip populations in tomatoes. Marigolds’ scent has been used to repel other pests as well . . . to a varying degree of success. You can also consider planting vegetables and herbs near some of your perennials. Locating onions and garlic near rose plants can add an additional texture to your flower garden and at the same time will repel pests that can attack your rose bushes. Aphids, ants and snails aren’t huge fans of garlic. In addition, studies show that garlic has anti-fungal properties, which helps to discourage the development of fungal diseases like blackspot. There are actually three reasons that you might plant nasturtium near squash plants First, they can help to reduce the number of squash bugs. Second, their flowers enhance the appearance of the garden. Third, they provide a blossom that is edible and can be added to your salads. So, as you prepare for the upcoming summer, consider mixing and matching your edible plants with flowering perennials and annuals to enhance the beauty of your garden, attract pollinators to plants that will benefit from these critters and reduce the need for pesticides by providing plants that serve as natural repellants. Photo credits: www.Havatopraksu.org , All Creative Commons (1), Linda Stein (2,3)

< Back Adaptive and Therapeutic Gardening Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer “Time spent in nature is essential for our health and comes with myriad benefits,” says Dr. Jean Larson, the manager of Nature-Based Therapeutics and Nature Heals Initiative at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum and faculty lead of the Nature-Based Therapeutic Studies at the Earl Bakken Center for Spirituality and Healing of the University of Minnesota. Read on for Master Gardener Mickey Scullard’s article about the therapeutic applications of horticulture and ways to make the benefits of gardening more accessible to many different levels of ability. Adaptive and Therapeutic Gardening addresses health, healing, and methods to help people of all abilities garden. Adaptive gardening provides suggestions for tools and garden structures that facilitate people who may have visual, sensory, or physical limitations such as arthritis or mobility difficulties that don’t permit kneeling on the ground. Therapeutic gardening, often called Horticultural Therapy, employs techniques that help people regain lost skills or learn new skills. Horticultural therapy has a long history of proven success in helping people heal through gardening. Originally focused on people with mental illnesses and then on soldiers returning from combat, it has expanded far beyond that to include physical rehabilitation for many conditions. Research has shown that horticultural therapy helps improve memory and cognitive abilities, too. Some programs have found success helping people who live with eating disorders. Physically, people can improve muscle strength, coordination, balance, and endurance. Horticultural therapy is performed by therapists who are professionals with specialized training leading to certification. The University of Minnesota’s Center for Spirituality and Health partners with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum to offer a horticultural therapy certification program as part of their Nature-based therapeutics program: UMN Nature-Based Therapeutics . They also offer courses in animal-assisted interactions and therapeutic landscape design. The Landscape Arboretum has a Sensory Garden that provides people with a wonderful example of the different type of healing properties of plants through smell, texture, and beauty. Designed to help encourage people to relax and designed to be accessible, it has something for everyone. Adaptive gardening provides methods people can use to garden throughout their life. This may start with the garden design, identifying the best planting structures, and using tools that have been designed to lessen strain, extend reach, and other mechanisms to help people perform all the steps needed to grow flowers and vegetables. Oregon State University developed an informative guide that walks you through the things to think about (see link below). For example, you may want to plan your garden walkways to be wheelchair accessible, position garden beds near water sources, or use a plastic garbage can filled with water to allow the gardener to easily dip their watering can. The material you use on pathways between garden beds can facilitate movement and thinking about different heights and widths of garden beds are other considerations. Container gardening may be a good technique for some people to continue to garden with less maintenance. The Landscape Arboretum’s Sensory Garden provides some examples of adaptive gardening through containers and raised beds. There are also smaller, easier ways to adapt to gardening limitations that include the availability of specialized garden tools that have handles that lessen strain on arthritic limbs and hands, or those that extend the reach so you don’t have to bend as far. For example, you can get easi-grip trowels, ergonomic and/or ratcheting pruners. You will want to practice safe lifting techniques by bending at the hips, lift with your knees, and lift close to your body. Consider lighter loads and making multiple trips. Pushing is better than pulling and it is always good to use carts/wagons. Other techniques that can help you garden longer safely include stretching before starting, gardening in shorter amounts of time, e.g., 60 – 90 minutes. Try to avoid or break-up repetitive movements and make sure you drink water. Gardening has many benefits to our health, well-being, and good mental health. With some extra work, it can be experienced by everyone. It can also help people heal from injuries, learn new skills, and address many different types of mental health issues. References University of Minnesota Center for Spirituality and Health Nature-Based Therapeutics https://csh.umn.edu/academics/focus-areas/nature-based-therapeutics Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Nature-Based Therapeutics https://arb.umn.edu/learn/health-wellbeing-programs/about-nature-based-therapeutics Oregon State University https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/em8498.pdf University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources https://ucanr.edu/sites/cetrinityucdavisedu/files/280231.pdf Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3) & University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources (4,5)

< Back Dividing Bearded Iris Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Your spectacular bearded iris have finished blooming. What do you to keep them coming back just as gorgeous next year? Irises need to be divided every 2 to 5 years in order to maintain full, healthy blooms and avoid insects such as the iris borer or diseases such as soft rot. The good news is that it is relatively easy to do! The night before, water the iris to insure moist soil when digging them up. And decide where you are going to put the extra bulbs in your garden after you do divide them. Remember that iris prefer well drained soil and full sun. Use a shovel/pitch fork to dig around the iris being careful to lift clumps while maintaining roots attached to the rhizomes. Gently remove soil from the rhizomes. You can use a garden hose if necessary. Divide the iris rhizomes with a pruning shears or a sharp knife using natural divisions. Make sure that you include part of the rhizome, some roots, and a fan of leaves. Cut the foliage back approximately 6 inches. If the foliage is yellow or you see dark streaks, inspect for iris borer and either discard those rhizomes with the borer or if limited damage, eliminate the borers and save the rhizomes being careful to cut out any damaged parts. Disinfect the cutting tools between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Remove any older spongy growth. To prevent infection, the rhizome can be soaked for about half an hour in a 10% bleach solution, if desired. They can also be treated with sulfur dust or an insecticide/fungicide if pest problems are severe. These steps are usually not needed. Soaked rhizomes, however, would need to dry in a shady place prior to re-planting. It is also recommended that you allow the cut rhizomes to cure for a few hours before replanting in a cool place. When replanting, give the rhizomes space to grow by planting 12 to 18 inches apart. Make sure the rhizome is planted shallowly on a mound and just cover the rhizome. Avoid planting too deeply. Iris are often planted in groups of three arranged in a triangle, with each fan of leaves pointing away from the other irises in the group. Additional information and step by step pictures are provided on the following websites: Dividing Bearded Iris or Divide Peonies and Iris in August. Photo credits: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Eating Jicama Jicama is a light brown skinned root vegetable that can usually be found in the produce section of most major supermarkets, and more commonly in Hispanic and Asian markets. Peeling away its leathery, toxic skin with any kitchen knife or vegetable peeler reveals an opaque white, fibrous flesh that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. Read on to learn how to use this interesting vegetable Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Jicama is a light brown skinned root vegetable that can usually be found in the produce section of most major supermarkets, and more commonly in Hispanic and Asian markets. Peeling away its leathery, toxic skin with any kitchen knife or vegetable peeler reveals an opaque white, fibrous flesh that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. The taste of uncooked jicama can be described as a cross between a not-so-sweet apple and a less starchy white potato. It is in this raw state that its nutritional health value can best be appreciated. According to the Cleveland Clinic, one cup of raw jicama has 49 calories, 12 grams of carbohydrates, 0 grams of cholesterol, 0.1 grams of fat, 6.4 grams of fiber, 1 gram of protein, 5 milligrams of sodium, and 2.3 grams of sugar, along with numerous vitamins and minerals. Some of these yummy essential nutrients serve as antioxidants, and act as aids in heart and gut health. Additionally, studies conducted in mice have shown that eating jicama may play a part in increasing insulin sensitivity and decreasing blood sugar levels.1,2 What a helpful and healthful snack to have on hand! Jicama can be enjoyed cooked in your favorite stir fry or included on a list of eggroll ingredients. Raw jicama can be cut into matchsticks and served on a vegetable platter or salad. Cut up into chips, it makes a nice support for any healthy or not-quite-as-healthy dip. A favorite recipe using chopped jicama is one that I’ll call “Puerto Vallarta Salad.” It’s a basic cut fruit salad consisting of honeydew melon, mango, cantaloupe, watermelon, strawberries, grapes, and any other fruit you may have available, sprinkled with lime juice and Tajín Clásico. Tajín is a well-known chili and lime seasoning that can be found in major supermarkets and Hispanic grocery stores. Tajín brings a tart and salty picante flavor to the salad, while jicama provides its unmistakable crunch. Give jicama a try! Its fresh taste and watery crispness makes a healthful addition to almost any diet. References: J Clin Biochem Nutr 2016 Jan;58(1):56-63. doi: 10.3164/jcbn.15-59. Epub 2015 Nov 20. Prev Nutr Food Sci. 2015 Jun; 20(2): 88–93. Photo Credits: foodlorists.blogspot.com (1), public domain (2)