< Back Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Click on this link to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Read on to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. I thought this article would be simple to write, but as it turns out, it is a much more complicated topic than I thought. Many gardeners understand the psychological benefits of having living plants around us. According to the American Horticultural Society, indoor plants can improve air quality through air purification, reduce stress, improve productivity, and bring beauty to your home. However, some people who have asthma or other lung conditions need to choose what type of plant, if any, is best for them. If you are concerned about allergens in your home, potted plants can be a challenge as the soil, if not properly watered, can create mold. Mold is created in soil from overwatering with limited air circulation and not enough sunlight. The Mayo Clinic suggested that if you do have potted plants in your home, you can put aquarium gravel over the dirt to contain any mold that could develop. Removing dust from your plants periodically also helps with allergies. Flowering plants can also be a challenge for people with airborne allergens. In my research I discovered the Ogren Plant Allergy Scale System (OPALS). It is a standard which considers the likelihood a plant will cause pollen allergy symptoms. Plants are ranked on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most allergenic. This system can be used for trees, shrubs, and other plants (indoors and outdoors). While researching, I did discover that there were many lists to cross reference and it was confusing as some of the lists said they were allergen friendly and other lists said they were not. So, I am including some of the most common plants that showed up on multiple lists realizing that this is a limited list. There are some colorful plants that produce pollens which are heavier and stickier. These plants will be less likely to cause irritants. Another suggestion is to consider cross referencing this list with a plant list that can cause skin rash sensitivities or are harmful to pets. Snake Plant (also called Mother-In-Law Tongue) Peace Lily Parlor Palm Areca Palm Lady Palm Bamboo Palm Dracaena Golden Pothos Dragon Tree (also called Marginata) Rubber Plant Philodendron Brasil Aloe Vera and other Succulents Horsehead Philodendron Dumb cane String of Pearls So, if you have been avoiding houseplants because of concern about allergies, know that there are houseplants out there that can provide the greenery, color and other benefits of houseplants this winter. Reference: “Healthy Living: How a Lab Founded with Mayo Clinic is Fine-tuning the Indoors”. By Liv Martin, September 13, 2021; Minnesota Monthly. https://ahsgardening.org “The Joys and Benefits of Indoor Gardening” Mayo Clinic website: “Allergy-proof your home” By Mayo Clinic Staff House Digest, “15 Best Houseplants for People with Allergies” by Kailen Skewis, October 16, 2022 Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, “Smart Gardening: Tips for an Allergy-Friendly Garden”, AAFA Community Services, 4/18/18 Good Housekeeping, “10 Best Indoor Plants for your Health According to Research”, by Erica Sweeney, Juley 29, 2022 https://zyrtec.com/indoors “5 .“Best Allergy Friendly House Plants” Https://plantify.co.za Https://flonase.com/allergies , “Best and Worst Indoor Plants for Allergies” Photo Credit: Commons.wikimedia.org-Creative Commons (1), Gardening.stackexchange.com-Creative Commons (2), www.flickr.com-Creative Commons (3)

< Back How To Identify Butterflies Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Few things in nature enchant both children and adults more than butterflies. Whether feeding on a flower or basking in the sun, butterflies, in every imaginable color, with patterns and markings that only nature could create, delight the soul. And like all things in nature we love, we want to know more about them. But butterflies are also important pollinators. Traveling long distances and responsible for one in every three bites of food we consume, butterflies contribute over 200 billion dollars to the food economy worldwide. It seems appropriate to know more about which of these essential creatures are visiting our gardens. Read this article for important advice about how to identify the butterflies that you see. Why would you want to identify butterflies? They are worse than birds - always on the move and tiny too! First, few things in nature enchant both children and adults more than butterflies. Whether feeding on a flower or basking in the sun, butterflies, in every imaginable color, with patterns and markings that only nature could create, delight the soul. And like all things in nature we love, we want to know more about them. Second, they are important pollinators. Their immense diversity and ability to adapt to many environments - including mountain tops, rainforests and mangrove swamps - benefit plants because butterflies transfer pollen while feeding. Traveling long distances and responsible for one in every three bites of food we consume, butterflies contribute over 200 billion dollars to the food economy worldwide. It seems appropriate to know more about which of these essential creatures are visiting our gardens. For tools and tips that will help you identify butterflies, read on. Butterfly identification is hampered by the fact that butterflies often don’t stay still long enough for us to even whip out our field guides, let alone find whatever page the unknown butterfly might be on. Thank goodness for smart phone cameras. Snap a photo the second you see an unknown butterfly, before it even thinks of taking off. That way, if it does, at least you have something to help you identify it. If it doesn’t – you will learn to be faster. While the smart phone camera is one of the best tools for identifying butterflies, you will also find these tools useful: 1. A butterfly identification guide. My review of the butterfly guides at the Dakota County library and the MN Landscape Arboretum Gift shop suggests finding the right one is a tricky business. The big, fat guides listing all 170,500+ butterflies found in the world can be expensive. In addition, you are probably not interested in identifying every butterfly in the world because only about 160 of these - plus a few strays - ever visit Minnesota. For my reviews and recommendations of field guides click here . 2. Close focusing binoculars. Next to the smart phone camera, this tool has been the single greatest aid to field identification of butterflies. Consider getting them if you decide to get serious about butterfly identification and want to spend the money. For more information about them, click on this link. Ball-Reference for butterfly article .pdf Download PDF • 89KB All that said, it is OK not to be “serious” about butterfly identification. On the other hand, you may be in-between “serious” and not caring at all. About eighteen butterflies are commonly found in Minnesota. You may want to get to know all of those or maybe just a few. So, you may or may not want to spend money on close focusing binoculars. Start by trying to identify butterflies and see how it goes. Click here for images from the Minnesota Zoo of some of the most commonly seen butterflies in this area and here is information on the top commonly reported butterflies and moths in Minnesota. Here are some other useful things to know when trying to identify butterflies : Butterfly Anatomy : Look up photos of butterfly anatomy. Identification guides will refer to dorsal and ventricle wings, eyespots and other butterfly “parts”. If you do not know to what these terms refer, you won’t know what your field guide is talking about when it tells you that black swallowtails, a common butterfly seen in MN, have “tails”. Additionally, without this knowledge you will not have the vocabulary to note what you see. Where to find butterflies: · Sun preferences : Sun loving butterflies - like Monarchs and Viceroys - are usually found in bright, open spots like fields, pastures, parks, and roadsides. If you know someone with a butterfly garden, invite yourself over, or visit one of Minnesota’s pollinator gardens. (location in Minneapolis ; location in St. Paul ). Shade-loving butterflies, on the other hand, favor sheltered spots like forests and woodland edges, places with less sunlight. · Host plants : Every butterfly has a specific plant or plants where it deposits its larvae (caterpillars) - its “host plant”. The larvae feed on the host plant and subsequently turn into butterflies. Monarchs, for example, feed exclusively on the leaves of milkweed. Learn about which plants are hosts to your favorite butterflies. · Colorful flowers : They tend to attract butterflies because butterflies rely on the sugar-rich nectar. However, some butterflies, like the Question Mark, never visit flowers. Look for them around rotting fruit, animal dung, dead animal carcasses, or tree sap. · Mud puddles and stream banks : “puddle club” butterflies gather at mud puddles and stream banks to drink water and take in salts and other nutrients. · Movement corridors : As previously noted, butterflies are usually moving so other good places to find them are “movement corridors”. Movement corridors are forest trails, waterways, woodland edges, and even, believe it or not, power lines! Butterflies use these flyways for many purposes, including migrating long distances and locating mates. When to find butterflies : Butterflies are most active during the day between 10 in the morning and 5 in the afternoon. Warm, sunny days are crucial for butterfly viewing because butterflies are cold-blooded. Unable to generate the body heat they need to warm up and fly, they must rely on sunlight. Thus cool, cloudy days are bad for butterfly viewing. Ditto for windy days. Strong winds also interfere with flight as do rain and even mild showers. How to approach butterflies : If you have ever tried to sneak up on a butterfly, you know they can take off before you are even halfway there. So, approach slowly and with caution. Butterflies have excellent eyesight and startle easily (so don’t let them see you coming). Sneak up from the lowest angle possible. Butterflies are on the alert for predators, which usually attack from above, so that is where they will be looking for danger. Pay attention to your shadow. Sudden changes in light may signal a potential predator to a butterfly so it will take off. Now that you have spotted a butterfly, how can you identify its type? · Moth or butterfly : Is this flying insect actually a butterfly? Or could it be a moth? It is easy to be fooled because many moths are more colorful than some butterflies. Notice the antenna: butterflies have long antenna with a ball or club-like tip. Moths have “fuzzy” antenna. · Size : Field guides will list butterfly wingspans in inches and/or centimeters which is rarely helpful in the field. Notice instead whether the butterfly is Small, Medium, or Large. The Monarch and the Swallowtail, for example, are LARGE butterflies. Using the them as a comparison helps you determine which butterflies are medium and small-sized. · Color : Notice the butterfly’s overall color. · Patterns or markings : Does the butterfly have distinct stripes, bands or eye spots? Where are they? Upper or lower wing? Edges? Center? · Wing shape: The wing shape will help you identify the family to which your butterfly belongs, considerably shortening the number of pages you will have to turn to find your butterfly. Swallowtails, for example, belong to the family “Papilionidae .” Most of its members have ‘tails.’ · Flight pattern and behavior : Butterflies have four wings that are connected in a way that allows the wings to move independently, allowing a wide variety of flight patterns. Therefore, observing flight patterns is a good way to identify butterflies. For example, does the butterfly flutter slowly with a weak, relaxed motion or whiz past with a strong, rapid flight? Does it fly low to the ground or soar far overhead? Does the butterfly bob up and down or periodically glide following a series of quick wing beats? “ Skipper butterflies,” for example, are called skippers because their flight pattern resembles a series of “skips”. · Range : Many butterfly species are found only in certain regions of Minnesota, or even the country. Consult a field guide range map and always start with the most probable identification. Initially, noticing all these features and remembering them may be overwhelming. It helps to record your observations and take a photo. Once you have made them, you can consult your butterfly guide. Over time your skills will increase. You will soon learn to recognize many common Minnesota butterflies like: Monarchs (our state butterfly) and Viceroys (often mistaken for Monarchs and vice versa) and Mourning Cloaks , one of 8 or so butterflies that overwinter in Minnesota. Identifying butterflies can be a fun summer activity for adults and children alike. Following these tips can make the experience more rewarding. Happy butterfly watching! REFERENCES https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/index.html Carter, David, Butterflies and Moths, Smithsonian Handbooks, NYC, New York, 2023 Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Farris Bryant Building620 S. Meridian St. • Tallahassee, FL • (850) 488-4676 Minnesota Butterflies, inaturalist, https://www.inaturalist.org/guides/1647?taxon=47922 https://tpwd.texas.gov/publications/pwdpubs/media/pwd_bk_w7000_0752.pdf https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/attracting-butterflies/focus-on-natives-giant-swallowtail-butterfly/ https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/butterfly-behavior-basics/ Wing, Scarlett & 3 more, Butterflies and Moths (Smithsonian Kids First Discovery Books) Board book – Touch and Feel, April 29, 2019 http://www.minnesotaseasons.com/Main/Butterflies.html#:~:text ecoredux.com https://www.ecoredux.com › butterflies-are-important Daniels, Jaret, Butterfly Watching Basics, University of Florida, IFAS Extension, July 2008; produced with cooperation and funding from FL Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission and the FL Museum of Natural History. https://www.lccmr.mn.gov/projects/2014/finals/2014_05j1_MNZoo_ButterflyNeighbor_ENG.pdf https://www.lccmr.mn.gov/projects/2014/finals/2014_05j1_MNZoo_ButterflyNeighbor_ENG.pdf Photo 1, credit: commons.wikimedia.org (all creative commons) Photo 2, credit: publicdomainpictures.net (all creative commons) Photo 3, credit: flickr.com (all creative commons) Photo 4, credit: en.wiktionary.org (all creative commons) Photo 5, credit: Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Extension Photo 6, credit: Marylandbiodiversity.com (all creative commons)

< Back Planning for a Sunny Garden for all Types of Conditions If you are looking to start growing flowering plants or vegetables in a sunny area of your garden, read Margie Blare’s articles on starting a new garden. Then, take a look at this article which provides lots of ideas for plants in various kinds of sunny gardens. There are a seemingly endless number of plants that will flourish in a sunny garden. This article helps you narrow the choices down to some super stars. Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener The twin cities area of Minnesota, now classified as USDA Hardiness Zone 5a, offers a unique opportunity for gardeners to create vibrant and thriving sunny gardens, whether you have a large space, small space, container gardens or a balcony garden. With at least 6-8 hours of full sun daily, you can cultivate a diverse array of flowers, vegetables, herbs, and small shrubs that not only add beauty but also provide ecological benefits. The shift from Zone 4b to 5a indicates milder winters, allowing for a broader range of plants to flourish in the region. To ensure your sunny garden remains healthy and vibrant, remember to provide adequate water and fertilization. Most plants require about an inch of water weekly, and using slow-release fertilizers can enhance growth without overfeeding. Mulching around plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, while row covers can protect against early frosts and pests. By selecting the right plants and following these care tips, you can create a thriving sunny garden in the Twin Cities that brings joy and beauty throughout the growing season. This article will suggest sun-loving perennials listed in different categories. You may want to look for those plants that appear in several categories as superstars. Perennials for Sunny Gardens Natives Native plants are an excellent choice for sunny Minnesota gardens, offering both beauty and ecological benefits. Here just a few of the many native plants that thrive in a sunny Minnesota garden: Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a showstopper, attracting pollinators with its bold purple petals. Wild Bergamot ( Monarda fistulosa), which produces lavender flowers beloved by bees and butterflies. Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta): for those seeking a touch of golden sunshine, offer long-lasting blooms and support local wildlife consider planting or Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is drought-tolerant and supports pollinators. Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop) : This plant offers blue, tubular flowers from mid-June to September. It is deer resistant and prefers well-drained soil. Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed) : Known for its bright orange or yellow flowers, this plant is a vital food source for monarch caterpillars. It grows well in loose soil and full sun. Wild Bergamot Grasses To add structure and year-round interest to your sunny garden, consider incorporating native grasses. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a stunning choice, with its bluish-green leaves turning a captivating reddish-brown in fall. For taller options, Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) and Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) are excellent choices, providing vertical interest and winter habitat for birds. These grasses not only thrive in full sun but also require minimal maintenance, making them perfect for busy gardeners. Little Bluestem Unique Pollinators Here are some unique plants that thrive in full sun in our area. These flowers not only add beauty to your garden but also provide ecological benefits by attracting pollinators and supporting local wildlife: Geum (ex., Red Dragon ): This perennial features low-mounding leaves with numerous small flowers that bloom from early to late summer. It is a great choice for adding vibrant color to your garden. Nepeta (ex., Purrsian Blue) : Known for its compact mounding habit and periwinkle blue flowers, this plant is deer and rabbit resistant. It blooms from May to September and attracts bees and butterflies. Liatris spicata (Blazing Star/Gay Feather) : This plant features purple, spike-like clusters that bloom in full sun conditions. It is deer resistant and thrives in rich, loamy soil. Low Maintenance Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) : one member of the Rudbeckia family, these plants are drought-resistant and deer-resistant, with bright yellow flowers that attract butterflies and birds. They require minimal care and can grow in well-drained soil. Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea) : these natives are drought-tolerant once established and attract a variety of pollinators. They bloom from mid-summer to early fall and require minimal maintenance. Sedum : This succulent comes in various forms and is highly drought-tolerant. It blooms in late summer and is excellent for low-maintenance gardens. Yarrow : With its flat clusters of flowers, yarrow attracts bees and butterflies. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) : in addition to its other attributes, Butterfly Weed is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed Compact Flowering Plants These plants are ideal for adding color and vibrancy to small full sun gardens without overwhelming the space: Sedum Sunsparkler Series : These sedums are low-mounding, growing only 6-8 inches tall and 10-12 inches wide. They offer beautiful foliage and bright flowerheads, making them perfect for small gardens. Nepeta Purrsian Blue : This compact mounding plant produces periwinkle blue flowers from May to September. Yellow Alyssum : Known as basket-of-gold, this low-growing perennial forms a mat and blooms with bright yellow flowers in the spring. It grows 6-12 inches tall with an 18-inch spread. Yarrow : While not as compact as some others, yarrow can be pruned to maintain a smaller size. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Geum Red Dragon : this colorful blooming plant is easy to grow. Deer-resistant Plants Yarrow (Achillea) : Known for its finely textured foliage with an herbal scent that repels deer, yarrow blooms in yellow, pink, white, or peach. It is hardy in zones 3-8 and prefers full sun. Ornamental Onion (Allium) : Deer avoid this plant due to its onion flavor. Varieties like 'Serendipity' offer playful purple flowers that bloom from mid to late summer. It thrives in zones 4-8 and full sun to part sun. Anise Hyssop (Agastache) : This plant's fragrant leaves and soft peach flowers make it unappealing to deer. Catmint (Nepeta) : Deer dislike this fuzzy, fragrant foliage of catmint. It blooms with bright lavender-purple flowers starting in early summer and thrives in zones 3-8 with full sun. Coneflower (Echinacea) : While not completely deer-proof, coneflowers are often left alone due to their spiny cones. They bloom most of the summer with full to part sun. Russian Sage (Perovskia) : Its clean, herbal scent makes it highly deer-resistant. It blooms with bright amethyst-blue flowers and thrives in full sun. Deer-resistant Groundcovers Creeping Phlox : This groundcover blooms with vibrant purple flowers in early spring and prefers well-drained soil in full sun. It is relatively deer-resistant due to its dense growth and less palatable foliage. Sedum : Known for its succulent leaves and stems, sedum is highly drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. It comes in various forms and colors, making it suitable for rock gardens and full sun conditions. Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pennsylvanica) : While not entirely deer-proof, this sedge is less appealing to deer due to its grass-like foliage. It thrives in full sun to part shade and is native to Minnesota. Thyme : Some varieties of thyme, like creeping thyme, can be used as a groundcover and are deer-resistant. They prefer well-drained soil and full sun. Creeping Phlox These groundcovers are not only deer-resistant but also low-maintenance, making them ideal for sunny areas. However, it's important to note that while these plants are less appealing to deer, they may still be nibbled on if other food sources are scarce. Vegetables and Herbs for Sunny Gardens Vegetable gardens in the twin cities can flourish with a variety of crops. Most vegetable and herbs need a lot of sun. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants should be started indoors and transplanted after the last frost, while lettuce, spinach, beets, carrots, and peas can be directly sown into the garden in early spring. For herbs, basil, chives, dill, and mint are popular choices that thrive in sunny conditions and require minimal care. Lavender , though typically hardy in Zone 5, can also survive in Zone 4 with proper protection, adding a fragrant and beautiful element to your garden. Compact vegetables that thrive in container gardens and smaller gardens Cherry Tomatoes : These are ideal for container gardens due to their compact size and high yield. They require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Peppers : Both bell and hot peppers grow well in containers. They are relatively compact and produce a high yield. Leaf Lettuce and Spinach : These can thrive in partial shade but also do well in full sun containers. They are easy to grow and can be harvested continuously. Radishes : Quick-growing and compact, radishes can be grown in shallow containers and require minimal space. Happy Sunny Gardening https://www.fox9.com/news/minnesotas-plant-hardiness-zones-have-changed https://www.mprnews.org/story/2023/11/21/milder-winters-changing-usda-plant-hardiness-zones-in-minnesota https://www.coppercreeklandscapes.com/new-blog/hardy-summer-perennials-minnesota https://www.leafgreengardens.com/minnesota-gardening-zones-by-usda/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-herbs https://mnhardy.umn.edu/shrubs https://sargentsgardens.com/top-10-sun-perennials/ https://www.gurneys.com/collections/vegetables-zone5 https://www.motherearthgardener.com/organic-gardening/herb-gardens-in-the-north-ze0z1810zcoo/ https://www.epicgardening.com/minnesota-perennials/ https://www.bachmans.com/information/usda-zone-map https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/17xkzir/2023_usda_plant_hardiness_map_of_minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/trees-and-shrubs-minnesota-landscapes https://bonnieplants.com/blogs/garden-ideas-inspiration/full-sun-garden-plants https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/hardy-herbs https://almanacplanting.com/collections/shrubs-and-bushes-zone-5 https://www.myhomepark.com/blog/12-minnesota-native-plants-for-your-home-landscapes https://ponicslife.com/minnesota-vegetable-planting-calendar-a-quick-and-easy-guide/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade https://tristarplants.com/collections/shrubs-for-zone-5 https://northerngardener.org/5-perennials-that-act-like-shrubs/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/planting-vegetable-garden https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/1bc3q70/what_perennial_herbs_do_people_have/ Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,4), open.lib.umn.edu (2), marylandbiodiversity.com (3)

< Back Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentuckea): A Rare Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you heard of or planted Yellowwood? It is one of the rarest of native shade trees. But Yellowwood is large, beautiful native tree that will grow well in Minnesota. Yellowwood has a special feature in the spring that Master Gardener Jim Lakin discusses in this article. Read more about this unique native tree. Yellowwood is one of the rarest of native shade trees, naturally occurring in the Eastern to Central United States. It’s most often found on the limestone cliffs of Kentucky, Tennessee and North Carolina. However, it is hardy through Zone 4 and thus a suitable planting for southern and central Minnesota. And, indeed, it is well worth considering as a gracious addition to your landscape. Yellowwood grows to a height of from 30 to 50 feet with a broad rounded crown and a smooth bark. The name yellowwood comes from its yellow heartwood, used in small amounts for specialist furniture and decorative woodturning. Although it is of great value as a shade tree, one of its most spectacular features is its flowering. In late May to early June, Yellowwood produces long, white clumps of wisteria-like flowers some 6 to 12 inches long. Flowering intensity varies from year to year with a profuse output every second to third year. In the fall, the leaves turn a mix of yellow, gold and orange. Quite a show! As you might expect, the nativar is a good source for pollinators, attracting a variety of butterflies and bees. Mature Yellowwoods In siting a Cladrastis kentuckea , do remember that it is a full-sized tree and should be spaced appropriately. It does best in full sun, in well-drained soil. It is quite tolerant of both acidic and alkaline soils. You might want to mulch heavily over winter for the first couple of years, as it is establishing itself in our bracing Minnesota climate. It looks great on a naturalized border. That’s something to consider if you have some woodland. Also, it is surprisingly tolerant of urban settings, although I’m not sure if it would be a candidate for your “hell strip” (what landscapers call the area between the sidewalk and street). Several cultivars of Yellowwood have been developed. “Perkins Pink” is a nice one with, as the name implies, pink rather than white flowers. A diminutive sister is “Kentucky Yellowwood”. This is a medium-sized tree suitable for ornamental gardens. It does, however, have the tendency to divide its trunk near the ground. This tendency seems to be widespread among the various Yellowwood strains. This bothers some folks although I think it imparts a distinctive character to the tree. Spring flowers of yellowwood So, if you are looking for a luxuriant, summer shade tree that puts on a show each spring and fall, consider Yellowwood. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota (1,2)

< Back A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. I moved back to Minnesota in the fall of 2018; I had not lived here since I was 6 years old. I was excited to be closer to family and to finally, put down some roots. My husband I had built a house and, over the winter, dreamed about how we would fill our blank landscape in the spring. In early May, I began shopping around at local nurseries and was drawn to and purchased a few flowering crabapple trees. I spent the rest of the month filling in the garden and by June, I was able to sit back and enjoy a complete yard. In early July, it was time to weed the garden. As I worked along the base of one of my crabapple trees, I bumped the trunk, which dislodged several bugs that I’d never seen before. Under closer examination, I realized that my crabapple had been taken over by these bugs. The Japanese Beetles had found my tree and were heavily at work, eating the once beautiful leaves. Japanese Beetles are an invasive species that feed on the leaves, flowers and fruits of approximately 300 different types of plants. They are around one-half inch long and have a metallic green head and thorax with copper-brown wing covers. Like all pests, Japanese Beetles find some plants more attractive than others. Some of the more susceptible plants include: Crab Apple Roses Grapes Linden Cherry Plum Apple Birch Elm Raspberry Currant Basil Virginia Creeper Hollyhock Marigold Corn Silks Soybean Adult Japanese Beetles typically arrive in our gardens at the end of June or early July and continue to feed on leaves through the month of August. While the beetles feed, they emit a specific odor that attracts more beetles to the plant or tree. The damage caused by the beetles varies but the pattern remains the same. Japanese Beetles “skeletonize” the leaves which means that they feed on the plant tissue between the veins, creating a lace appearance. An established, healthy plant can withstand heavy feeding with only cosmetic damage done to the leaves, while younger, unhealthy plants may experience restricted growth or possibly death if the feeding is significant. During this time, the beetles are also mating. Females will burrow a few inches into the soil, several times during the summer, to lay a total of approximately 60 eggs over the season. The eggs hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on the roots of grass. Dryer soil conditions can help make the soil less favorable and may reduce the amount of new Japanese Beetles the following year. As temperatures begin to cool, the grubs burrow deeper into the soil to overwinter until the following spring. As temperatures rise, the grubs move closer to the surface of the soil and feed on the grass roots until they reach their adult phase. There are many ways that we can minimize the damage caused to our plants by Japanese Beetles. Here are some control options: Netting You can cover smaller plants with cheese cloth or other fine netting to prevent access to the leaves. This will allow light and rain to filter through without exposing the leaves to the pest Manual Hand picking or shaking Japanese Beetles off the plants into a bucket of soapy water. While laborious, this is effective, especially if done in the early morning or in the evening when the beetles are sluggish. Chemical If you visit your local nursery, you will find a variety of chemical options that are designed to minimize the presence of Japanese Beetles. Remember to read the label – it’s the law! Follow best practices: Do not spray the plant on a windy day Wear long sleeves, pants, protective eye wear and gloves Wear a face mask to prevent inhalation Ensure that the chemical will not harm beneficial insects in your garden Traps Commercial traps are readily available in many stores; however, this method is not recommended or effective. Traps may attract more beetles than are actually caught. Traps put other plants at risk that the beetles may have avoided in the past. Plant Selection Consider adding plants to your garden that are not attractive to Japanese Beetles: Boxwood Clematis Chrysanthemum Conifers (e.g., arborvitae, spruce, fir, pine) Daylily Geranium Gingko Japanese Tree Lilac Forsythia Common Lilac Magnolia Red and Silver Maple Oak White Poplar Redbud Rhododendron Yew My first summer back in Minnesota left me with a lot of frustration, and I spent some of the winter months trying to understand how to prevent these pests from entering my garden in the upcoming spring. I learned a lot, but mostly, acceptance. As gardeners, pests, whether welcome or not, are part of the package, part of the experience that makes what we do always challenging, always an adventure. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles#non-chemical-management-options-1591111 https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dont-fall-japanese-beetle-trapping-trap Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back The Minnesota Lawn Guide: Attaining and Maintaining the Lawn You Want Gail Maifeld The Minnesota Lawn Guide, by Melinda Myers will give you tips on growing the perfect lawn in Minnesota. Whether establishing a new lawn, restoring an existing one or fixing spots, this easy to read book will help answer all your questions. Fall is cleanup time for the garden. The drought of the 2021growing season has been a challenge for all gardening. Watering restrictions presented challenges for lawn care. Melinda Myer’s book, The Minnesota Lawn Guide, provides fall procedures that would be helpful to revitalize a lawn. Written in plain language the author addresses variable weather, unpredictable rain, and long harsh winter effects on grass. Good soil is the foundation for a healthy lawn so a soil test is recommended. Individual chapters about watering, fertilizing, mowing, turf varieties, and the best seeds are included. THE MINNESOTA LAWN GUIDE is a necessary reference for the new lawn process, lawn restoration, and spot restorations. Melinda Myers is a well-known PBS presenter, has 13 years experience at the University of Wisconsin Extension Service, and is editor/columnist for Birds & Bloom Magazine.

< Back Vegetables Indigenous to North America Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota and provide some useful references for those interested in exploring this topic more thoroughly. Larry Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota. But first, let’s define some terms. Indigenous vegetables are defined as “locally-produced (usually within traditional systems), socially and culturally accepted as local foods, and eaten by previous generations or introduced for a very long time.” https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 . “A plant is “native” if it has occurred naturally for thousands of years in a region, ecosystem, or habitat without human introduction. https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native . Minnesota is home to a wide range of native and indigenous plants and vegetables each with many different cultivars. An important source for indigenous plants in Minnesota is a work by Frances Densmore - Plants Used by the Chippewa Indians , originally published in 1927 and later retitled How the Indians Use Wild Plants for Food, Medicine & Crafts . Densmore documented nearly 200 plants and their uses for food, medicine, dyes, charms, and crafts. Her work offered a firsthand look at the plants used by Indigenous communities across Minnesota. For example, she recorded the use of Spreading Dogbane for heart issues and Chokecherry bark for stomach ailments—remedies later validated by U.S. pharmacological references. Her contributions remain deeply influential today. (See references below.) While it’s easy to find general references to staple crops like beans, squash, and corn, it is more difficult to uncover exact cultivars. Densmore’ book is an excellent source for this research. Frances Densmore More recently, many organizations are attempting to identify and save seeds that are indigenous to North America. In Minnesota, environmentalist and Native American activist Winona LaDuke initiated the White Earth Land Recovery Project to protect indigenous seeds, help the community to overcome type-2 diabetes and also strengthen the community’s spiritual and cultural heritage. Other organizations that are working to catalog and conserve indigenous seeds are Seed Savers Exchange and Slow Food International’s Ark of Taste . One organization, Food Tank, has compiled a list 20 foods that are indigenous to the people in North America. Some foods on this list are familiar and some or not: but all are interesting. Acorns (California native oak trees) American Persimmon Wild Rice (Anishinaabe Manoomin) Bay of Fundy Dulse (a red seaweed from Canada) Blue Camas (Pacific Northwest, root vegetable) Candy Roaster Squash (Appalachian Mountain native) Chaya (native to Yucatan Peninsula, evergreen plant) Chiltepin Pepper (southern U.S., very spicy) Cholla Cactus Flower Buds (southwestern U.S.) Garambullo (central Mexico, sweet red or purple fruit) Highbush Cranberry (native to Alberta, Canada) Mesquite Beans (southwestern U.S.) Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads (northeastern North America) Pawpaws (largest edible fruit in North America) Ramon seed (superfood used by Mayans) Roy’s Calais Flint Corn (northern U.S. and Canada) Seminole Pumpkin (native to the Everglades) Tehucan Amaranth (indigenous to the Tehuacan Valley of Mexico) Tepary Beans (southwestern U.S.) Wild Ramps (wild onions native to eastern North America) Indigenous vegetables that are more familiar locally include beans, corn and squash. One traditional method of growing these crops is known as the “Three Sisters.” The term “Three Sisters” refers to corn, squash, and beans traditionally grown together using intercropping techniques. These plants support one another: corn offers structure, beans enrich the soil with nitrogen, and squash shades the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds. This method has been used for generations, and studies have confirmed its effectiveness. Three Sisters plots have shown significantly better soil health—including higher CO₂ respiration and nitrate levels—compared to monoculture plantings. Corn – Red Lake Corn One variety native to Minnesota is Red Lake Corn, cultivated by the Red Lake Ojibwe along Red Lake’s southern shores. This eight-rowed corn features mixed white and blue kernels, occasionally with red. It’s a distinct and culturally significant variety grown by skilled Indigenous farmers. Beans – Pole beans Cherokee Trail of Tears pole bean . The Cherokee people carried these beans with them during their forced removal from their ancestral lands, highlighting their importance as a source of sustenance and cultural identity. For purposes of the Three Sisters, look for varieties that will grow up and wrap around corn stalks. Many varieties with roots in North America are available. Squash – Cucurbita maxima Cucurbita maxima , one of the five cultivated squash species, originated over 4,000 years ago in South America. Though it favors warmer climates, some varieties have historically been grown in cooler regions like Minnesota. Frances Densmore referenced it as a basic but important food source. This long-vining plant needs full sun, fertile soil, and space to spread. Its seeds also have medicinal uses, and the fruit is versatile—great for soups, roasting, or baking. Some varieties are even grown for ornament or livestock feed. Squash, Cucurbita maxima If you are interested in growing heirloom vegetables indigenous to North America, look for Native seed companies like Seedsavers Exchange. For more information about indigenous vegetables, take a look at the references below. References https://foodtank.com/news/2016/07/indigenous-foods-historically-and-culturally-important-to-north-americ/ https://www.gardenary.com/blog/what-crops-are-actually-native-to-north-america https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 https://friendsofeloisebutler.org/pages/history/densmore.html https://www.redwingminnesota.org/dakota-densmore https://www.mnopedia.org/person/densmore-frances-1867-1957 https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/151430#page/1/mode/1up https://www.extension.iastate.edu/vegetablelab/files/research/files/farmreports-12307-herrighty.pdf https://minnesotareformer.com/2020/11/24/returning-the-three-sisters-corn-beans-and-squash-to-native-american-farms-nourishes-people-land-and-cultures/ https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/10-plants/corn https://www.redlakenationnews.com/story/2018/10/01/features/red-lake-corn/75293.html?m=true https://www.mnfuels.com/blog/88-octane/corn-on-indigenous-peoples-day/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Astragalus_crassicarpus https://identify.plantnet.org/k-world-flora/species/Cucurbita%20maxima%20Duchesne/data https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cucurbita_maxima https://minnesotagrown.com/wp-content/uploads/Winter-Squash.pdf Photo credits: www.educationthatinspires.ca (1), www.mnopedia.org (2), En.wikipedia.org (3)

< Back Lavender Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener With its silvery-green foliage, upright flowers and compact form, lavender is an ideal addition to any garden. You can harvest it for fragrant flower arrangements, culinary uses, sachets and potpourri. Read this article for some tips on growing lavender in Minnesota. Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) is a cutting gardener’s favorite that combines function and beauty. The distinctive fragrance and attractive foliage make lavender a companion plant for a rose garden by covering the lower rosebush canes. Essential oils are said to revive the spirits and fragrant blooms are said to have a calming effect. It has been a difficult plant to grow in zone 4 despite the alkaline soil that lavender prefers. Lavender often died in Minnesota until new research from the Chicago Botanic Garden Plant Trials (2017) showed which varieties are hardy in their USDA Zone 5 conditions. Based on an evaluation process the following seven types are hardy in zones 4 and 5: Imperial Gem, Royal Velvet, Munstead, Super Blue, Jean Davis, Niko, and Sharon Roberts. With a winter mulch of chopped leaves plus some topsoil, to keep the leaves in place, gardeners in the Twin Cities metro area have been successful with the Munstead variety. Ideally 2 feet of snow will protect the plant, also. Growing lavender in this area requires full sun, and well-drained soil—gravelly or sandy soils are ideal. Growers should plant early in the spring to allow for the longest growing season. Maintenance needs are few since lavenders do not need irrigation or fertilizer. Deadheading is the gardener’s choice but it will keep the plant neat looking. Cut the plant back one-third after blooming. Do not cut back to the ground in the fall. The gardener may need to trim the branches in the spring for reshaping. Natural oils of the lavender plant repel most grazing animals such as deer and rabbits. The fragrant blooms may be harvested and dried to make fragrant lavender pockets for sweaters or the lingerie drawer. Other uses include baking, teas, a drop in an infuser, or drop on a pillowcase to improve sleep quality. References Chevallier, Andrew. Herbal Remedies. Easy-to-Use Visual Reference Guide. Lavenders for Northern Gardens, Richard G. Hawke , Plant Evaluation Manager and Associate Scientist, Chicago Botanical Gardens. 2017. Good Lavenders for the North! Mary H. Meyer, Extension Horticulturist and Professor. Extension.umn.edu Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2,3)

< Back Entangled Life “Fungi provide the key to understanding the planet on which we live and the ways we think, feel and behave. Yet they live their lives largely hidden from view and over ninety percent of their species remain undocumented.” So explains Merlin Sheldrake in his fascinating book “Entangled Life.” Read this book review to discover more about the role of fungi in our lives. Reviewed by Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Merlin Sheldrake's book Entangled Life will fascinate you with the many hundreds of ways, (good and bad) in which fungi affect our planet; from billion-dollar world-wide crop damage, to helping fight Colony Collapse Disorder in bees and even helping it rain! Without fungi, we wouldn't have antibiotics, beer, wine or some kinds of bread or that black gold called compost. Plants have formed a symbiotic relation with fungi, which helps the plants take in phosphorous and nitrogen. Fungi can be found not just around the roots but also between the cells of some plants. Did you know that slime molds can “run” mazes”? There are even fungi that “hunt” and digest nematodes. Sheldrake takes us on his journey of discovery while researching fungi. You'll read about exotic locals, exhausting field work, and his experience of participating in an LSD study on whether or not a scientist's mind can solve problems that formerly stumped them while on LSD. Sheldrake doesn't hesitate to speculate on the possibly world-view changing implications of his field of research. You will take away a humbling understanding of our world and its interconnections. Photo Credit: Merlin Sheldrake "Entangled Life" book jacket

< Back How to Share Your Plants Safely Sharing plants from our gardens is a common and gratifying practice among gardeners. But in these times, we must know how to share plants safely. Safe from what? Jumping worms have become a significant and difficult problem for Minnesota gardens. This particular type of worm has the ability to ravage your garden soil and weaken or kill your plants. This article will help you learn more about this pest and show you how you can still share your plants safe from the spread of jumping worms. Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The Dakota County Master Gardener Plant Sale is scheduled soon. As we plan to share the lovely garden flowers abound in Dakota County, we will be mindfully bare rooting the plants before donating to the sale . If you are planning to share plants from your garden with others this summer, bare rooting them is the safe way to do it. Why bare root?! The goal of bare rooting plants is to prevent the spread of jumping worms, which are an invasive species of worms in the United States. The worms can produce significant destruction in your garden by severely impacting the soil structure of your garden and reducing or destroying plant growth. Read this article from the University of Minnesota Extension to learn more about jumping worms in Minnesota. Prevention is key to limiting the spread of invasive jumping worms. Since soil, plant roots and mulch are the common materials most likely to spread the jumping worms, you can play an integral role in minimizing jumping worm issues. Note that in the spring, jumping worms are either cocoons or juveniles. The cocoons are the size and color of soil aggregates so they are difficult to see. Juvenile jumping worms may look like other juvenile earthworms at this point, without the telltale cream color collar, so they are hard to find or identify. These worms and juvenile worms can easily hide inside the roots of your plant. You can still share your plants and dramatically reduce the spread of jumping worms by taking steps to “bare root” your plants. The remainder of this article will provide step-by-step instructions about how to do so. How to Bare Root Your Plants Before sharing your beautiful garden plants, please take the following steps to bare root your donations. SUPPLIES: Drop cloth for work area; your plant; deep tray or wash tub; chopsticks or bamboo skewer; 4-5 five gallon buckets, with all but one half full of water; sheets of newspaper; paper towel; sterile soil; twine; label; 5 gallon elastic-top paint strainer and a gallon sized plastic bag. DIRECTIONS : 1. Prepare the work area with a dropcloth. Take the plant out of its pot over the deep tray/washtub. Using the chopsticks/skewer or your hands, completely remove all the dirt directly into the tray. 2. Rinse the roots in 2-3 of the water buckets until clean. 3. Examine the roots to ensure no dirt or potential jumping worm cocoons remain. 4. Position one sheet of newspaper into a diamond shape. Set a paper towel in the middle of the newspaper. 5. Lay the plant on the paper towel. Sprinkle sterile soil on the roots. 6. Wrap the bottom of the newspaper up on the roots and dirt. Fold in both sides of the newspaper over the roots. Tie the packet with twine. 7. Attach a label with the plant’s name to the twine. Write the plant’s name on the newspaper, too. 8. Put the tied packet into a bucket of clean water (ie., a bucket of water not used to rinse the roots) to hydrate it initially, removing it after soaked. Water the packet daily. 9. Return the dirt from the washtub to the old plant pot. Put the dirt back where it came from. 10. Pull the elastic paint strainer over the empty bucket. Dump everything collected in the other 5 gallon buckets (that you used to rinse off the plant’s dirt) into the empty bucket. Remove the strainer and the strained material into a gallon sized plastic bag. Seal the bag and discard it in the trash. Tip the bucket to empty the water into the area where the plant originated. Clean the dropcloth to prevent inadvertent spread of the worms/cocoons. NOTE : Since no earthworms are native to Minnesota, drop any worms found while bare rooting into a plastic bag, seal it and put it in the trash. Do not compost. With a little practice, you’ll get the hang of bare rooting. A practice well worth it to keep your garden healthy. Resources Bare Root Instructions Credit to Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Video instructions from Dakota County Master Gardeners. Included in this video is another video by Julia Vanatta. Special credit must be given to her. Without her research and demonstration classes this article could not have been written. Julia promotes sustainable gardening as a volunteer for Wild Ones Twin Cities. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3), Longfield Gardens (from Creative Commons licenses) (1)

< Back Putting Your Garden to Bed If it’s yellow or brown, cut it down. If it’s green, leave it alone. This long-standing rule-of-thumb means you can’t just wake up one day and decide to put your garden to bed for the winter. It’s a gradual process because plants die back at different rates depending on when they transition energy to the roots. Cutting off green leaves can weaken a plant and affect its vigor and bloom next year. Besides, there are lots of reasons to avoid cutting shrubs, stems and perennials – for winter interest and for wildlife. Here are some ways to ready your gardens for cold and snow ahead. Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Ready for a Long Winter’s Nap? October is the time to put your garden to bed. This means cutting things back, cleaning up what's left, packing away tools and pots, and getting everything ready to go for next spring. Then you can settle in for winter knowing that your garden will look healthy and happily tucked in! Cut Back Keep your garden tidy and save labor later by cutting back many perennials after frost causes them to turn brown and die. On the other hand, some perennials (like Catmint) look good until the snow flies and can be left until spring. And some perennials offer seed heads for foraging birds…or shelter for beneficial insects. These plants support Mother Nature while providing some interest in what might otherwise be a bleak winter landscape. In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. Remember, don't prune woody plants, trees and shrubs until late winter when they are dormant. Clean Up Healthy plant debris can be composted at home or at a municipal compost site. Debris from plants with powdery mildew or other diseases should be composted at a municipal site, where temperatures get high enough to kill the disease. Pull dead or declining annuals. It's hard to do, but they won’t come back next spring. Clean up overgrown areas to prevent animals and pests from moving in – like brush piles or hidden spots around the yard where weedy trees and shrubs have taken root. Harvest everything above ground in the vegetable garden and under fruit trees. Don't leave fruits and vegetables out all winter to rot, attract animals, and set seed. Other Tasks Empty, clean and disinfect your containers by spraying them with a bleach cleaner. Pottery should be moved into a shed or garage to avoid freezing and breaking. Clean and store stakes, tomato cages, garden ornaments and other hardware. They’ll last longer and look better next spring. Clean soil from your tools, then sharpen edges with a file. Finish with a light coating of oil to prevent rusting. Move any plants that spend their winters inside. Quarantine before introducing them to your other houseplants to prevent pests from spreading. Dig up your tender bulbs and tubers well before the threat of frost. Store them in a warm, dry place out of direct light. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: October Gardening Tips from the University of Minnesota Arboretum – October Gardening Tips (umn.edu) Protecting trees and shrubs in winter | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2), University of Minnesota Extension (3, 4)

< Back Vexing Vole Damage Julie Harris, Master Gardener As the snow melts this spring, you may observe trails of dead grass in your yard. Or, you may find that the bark near the ground of your small trees or shrubs has been chewed bare. What is the cause of this damage that occurred over the winter? Most likely, the culprit is voles. Read this article learn more about voles and how you can reduce the damage they may bring to your yard. Voles or field mice are small brown rodents about the size and shape of a mouse. There are several species of vole. In Minnesota, the most common species are the meadow vole and the prairie vole. While voles don’t live long (2 – 16 months) they breed abundantly. One female vole can produce 3 – 5 babies, 5 – 10 times a year. They nest a few inches into the ground in small nests or tunnels. Voles generally eat grass and plant bulbs. They feed day and night throughout the year. Evidence of voles is a series of criss-crossing trails in the grass. You might also see patches of dried grass. This may be a storage area for food and nesting materials. Voles also make small holes in the grass to get to bulbs and tubers. Voles can damage or destroy trees and shrubs by gnawing and girdling of the plant. Of course, other animals, such as rabbits, also gnaw on plants in the winter. Vole girdling can be differentiated from girdling by other animals by the non-uniform gnaw marks. They occur at various angles and in irregular patches. Rabbit gnaw marks are larger and not distinct. Rabbits neatly clip branches with slanted, clean cuts. How can you prevent vole damage? You can’t entirely. Voles are so plentiful that you cannot eliminate them completely. However, there are some steps that you can take to reduce the threat. Remove woodpiles and debris that provide a hiding place Keep your grass trimmed short and your bushes trimmed up Remove birdfeeders or keep the ground around them very clean Loosely wrap your trees with a light-colored tree guard up to the top of the snow line It may be possible to trap voles using a standard mouse trap baited with peanut butter; but this only works on small populations It may be possible to use a toxic bait but this should be used only by certified pesticide applicators. Voles are a food source for many animals. However, this doesn’t control the vole population because they reproduce so rapidly. The good news is that voles rarely invade houses. And, while vole damage is annoying, it is generally not permanent. You can rake of the dead grass and reseed the damaged area. References: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage#pesticides-1901264 ; authored by Jennifer Menken, Bell Museum of Natural History http://pcwd.info/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/1994Voles.pdf ; authored by John M. O’Brien, Nevada Department of Agriculture Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4)