< Back Just for My Valentine Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Joy Johnson shares how to use those tomatoes that you saved from September’s harvest. And, make something sweet for your “sweetie” on Valentine’s Day. Joy shares her recipe for Sweetheart scones in this article. It’s February in Minnesota and nothing is growing in our gardens right now. If you’re anything like me, back in September you had a bumper crop of tomatoes. I freeze a lot of tomatoes for use in soups, stews, chili and minestrone during the winter months. I also make a lot of tomato juice and freeze that too. To make tomato juice in the fall, wash core and thickly slice your fresh tomatoes. Put them in a large pot and cook them over medium heat, stirring occasionally until they are completely soft and falling apart. Then put the contents of the pot through a hand food mill. That easily separates the skins and seeds from the pulp and juice. I add one teaspoon of salt to each quart of juice. Then I fill quart sized freezer baggies, lay them flat on a cookie sheet and put them into the freezer. Once they are frozen you can remove the cookie sheet and stack the frozen baggies. Here is a simple recipe for a delicious tomato soup . It really hits the spot on a cold winter day and pairs wonderfully with a grilled cheese sandwich. Because it’s red, it makes a fun Valentine’s Day lunch addition. Cream of Tomato Soup Saute: 2 T. butter 2 T. onion, chopped Blend In: 3 T. Flour 2 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. petter Dash of garlic salt, basil, oregano, thyme Remove from heat. Gradually stir in: 2 c. tomato juice Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil 1 minute. Stir hot tomato mixture into cold milk: It is VERY IMPORTANT to pour the hot tomato mixture into the cold milk, if you pour the cold milk into the hot tomato mixture it will curdle. 2 c. cold milk Heat almost to boiling and serve. Sweetheart Scones Another recipe for Valentine’s Day that the kids can help with are scones. They are easy to make. You can add craisins, raisins, dried blueberries, dried cherries or dried cranberries. (A little grated orange rind is great with the cranberries.) 2 ½ cups flour (you can use part whole wheat) 1/3 cup sugar 1 T. baking powder ¾ tsp. salt 6 T. butter 1 egg ½ cup milk (you can use cows, almond, rice or reconstituted powdered milk) ¾ cup cranberries, cherries or blueberries, dried Top with 2 tsp. milk and 1 tsp. sugar before baking Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Stir. With a pastry blender or fork cut in butter until mixture represents course crumbs. Mix eggs with fork in a bowl and then add ½ cup of milk and blend. Pour egg and milk mixture into flour mixture and toss with a fork until mixture holds together. Stir in cranberries or your choice of berries. Form dough into a ball and gently knead on a lightly floured board five times. Roll dough gently in to ¾ inch thickness and use a large heart-shaped cookie cutter or a knife to cut 8-10 heart shapes. Before baking, brush each heart with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake at 425 degrees for 12-15 minutes until lightly brown. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson

< Back Autumn Abundance: Fall Porch Pots Julie Deane, Dakota County Master Gardener As your summer plants dwindle and spindle, fall is the perfect time to refresh your front porch with a fun fall planter. The best part? You can create a beautiful autumn display by salvaging some of your existing plants and adding a few fall-friendly plants. In this article, learn how to use your existing plants and new fall plants to add some cheer and beauty to your garden. Gather Your Supplies Start with what you have and add a few fall finds: Summer survivors: Assess summer containers for vines and grasses and any blooming plants that fit your fall color scheme and can be reused. Often lantana and black-eyed Susan will continue blooming into fall and can be repurposed in your fall planters. Containers: Empty tired summer planters and repot with a fall theme. Or repurpose buckets, tin pails, old bushel baskets, wooden crates, or any type of basket. Lined with plastic or drill holes for drainage, these make charming, rustic planters. Farmstand finds: Support local farmers and add some corn shocks, gourds and pumpkins. Skewer small pumpkins and gourds on sticks or dowels for added texture. Craft materials: Twine, ribbons, or burlap scraps can dress up your containers and tie everything together. Pick Fall-Friendly Plants Choose plants that love cooler weather and bring out beautiful autumn hues, such as: Chrysanthemums (Mums): Vibrant flowers that bloom in yellow, orange, red, or purple. Ornamental Kale, Peppers and Cabbage: Add texture and deep green, purple, or white accents. Pansies and Violas: Hardy, cheerful flowers that thrive in fall’s mild temps. Asters: These daisy-like flowers come in lovely shades of blue, purple, and pink. Grasses: Varieties like fountain grass or millet provide height and movement, and some are deep purple in color. Trailing vines: Ivy or Creeping Jenny cascade beautifully over planter edges.If you have leftover herbs (like sage or thyme) from summer, tuck them in for texture and fragrance. Assembly Steps Prepare Your Base: Ensure your selected container has drainage holes or line it appropriately. Fill with potting mix. Gather your Treasures: Carefully extract any summer plants that will be reused, protecting the root base as you transplant to the fall container. Gather any other items to add to the planter as well. Arrange Your Plants: Place taller plants, like grasses or kale, in the back or center. Fill around with mums, asters, and pansies for color. Let vines or trailing plants spill over the edges. Tuck in decorative items—mini pumpkins, pinecones, sticks, or even faux leaves. Add Finishing Touches: Secure burlap or ribbon around the rim. Nestle in some twigs, berry branches, hydrangea blossoms, or a small decorative sign for added charm. Tips for Success Cluster multiple planters: Vary heights and shapes for an eye-catching display. Check your summer pots to see if you can re-use some yellow, orange or purple bloomers or some of your vines. Use straw bales to vary the height and add dimension to your space. Water regularly: Fall can be dry, so check soil moisture often. Remember to water at the soil and not on the foliage or blooms for best results. Use what’s plentiful: Gather colorful leaves, branches, or seed pods locally for a natural look. Tuck in hydrangea blooms for a fuller look. Enjoy Your Fall Planters With a little creativity and items already on hand, you can build a front porch planter that celebrates the season in style. Add some straw bales or corn shocks for even more fall flare. Each time you walk up to your front door, you’ll be greeted by a burst of fall colors and textures—proof that a little resourcefulness (and a lot of autumn spirit) can go a long way. Photo Credit: https://momcrieff.com/fall-planter/ (1), www.merrifieldgardencenter.com (2), www.pinterest.co.uk (3), www.gardengatemagazine.com (4)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.

< Back Eating Jicama Jicama is a light brown skinned root vegetable that can usually be found in the produce section of most major supermarkets, and more commonly in Hispanic and Asian markets. Peeling away its leathery, toxic skin with any kitchen knife or vegetable peeler reveals an opaque white, fibrous flesh that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. Read on to learn how to use this interesting vegetable Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Jicama is a light brown skinned root vegetable that can usually be found in the produce section of most major supermarkets, and more commonly in Hispanic and Asian markets. Peeling away its leathery, toxic skin with any kitchen knife or vegetable peeler reveals an opaque white, fibrous flesh that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. The taste of uncooked jicama can be described as a cross between a not-so-sweet apple and a less starchy white potato. It is in this raw state that its nutritional health value can best be appreciated. According to the Cleveland Clinic, one cup of raw jicama has 49 calories, 12 grams of carbohydrates, 0 grams of cholesterol, 0.1 grams of fat, 6.4 grams of fiber, 1 gram of protein, 5 milligrams of sodium, and 2.3 grams of sugar, along with numerous vitamins and minerals. Some of these yummy essential nutrients serve as antioxidants, and act as aids in heart and gut health. Additionally, studies conducted in mice have shown that eating jicama may play a part in increasing insulin sensitivity and decreasing blood sugar levels.1,2 What a helpful and healthful snack to have on hand! Jicama can be enjoyed cooked in your favorite stir fry or included on a list of eggroll ingredients. Raw jicama can be cut into matchsticks and served on a vegetable platter or salad. Cut up into chips, it makes a nice support for any healthy or not-quite-as-healthy dip. A favorite recipe using chopped jicama is one that I’ll call “Puerto Vallarta Salad.” It’s a basic cut fruit salad consisting of honeydew melon, mango, cantaloupe, watermelon, strawberries, grapes, and any other fruit you may have available, sprinkled with lime juice and Tajín Clásico. Tajín is a well-known chili and lime seasoning that can be found in major supermarkets and Hispanic grocery stores. Tajín brings a tart and salty picante flavor to the salad, while jicama provides its unmistakable crunch. Give jicama a try! Its fresh taste and watery crispness makes a healthful addition to almost any diet. References: J Clin Biochem Nutr 2016 Jan;58(1):56-63. doi: 10.3164/jcbn.15-59. Epub 2015 Nov 20. Prev Nutr Food Sci. 2015 Jun; 20(2): 88–93. Photo Credits: foodlorists.blogspot.com (1), public domain (2)

< Back Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.) for Tough Growing Sites Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Pussytoes is a cute name for a sturdy native plant. If you are looking for a tough, resilient groundcover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennarias (Pussytoes). The genus Antennaria boasts dozens of species native to the temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. Here in the Northern Midwest, we have two commonly found species: Antennaria neglecta or Lesser Pussytoes and Antennaria plantaginifolia or Plantain-Leafed Pussytoes. Together these two fellows provide great ground covers for various environments where most other plants fear to tread. Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) in spring, with flower buds The Pussytoes derive their name from the silky white flowers which form in tight clusters that resemble a cat’s toe. The plants are dioecious (either male or female). Male plants’ flowers disintegrate rapidly but the female plants’ blooms are longer lived being supplemented by a tuft of awned fruits that look frothy when ripe. Lesser or Field Pussytoes ( Antennaria neglecta ) are found in dry prairies, savannas and open woodlands in difficult, often eroded areas where little else will grow. Thus, they can compete in spite of their small stature. Their basal leaves are only some 3 inches tall and the flower spikes grow to no more than 8 inches. They do well in dry, hot areas with full sun. They are ideal for so-called “hell strips” between urban sidewalks and streets. They spread by rhizomes into masses several feet in width. If you want to increase your plantings, they are easily propagated by division. In contrast, Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes ( Antennaria plantaginifolia ) grows better with more shade than does Lesser Pussytoes. It does just fine in a shady moist area. As a matter of fact, its leaves may burn if the plant is in a location that is too sunny, too dry or too hot. Like Lesser Pussytoes, it will densely cover ground prone to erosion. Its leaves are wider with three noticeable veins. It does bear a resemblance to plantain, a not so popular addition to many suburban lawns. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes also spread by rhizomes and can be propagated by division or grown from seed. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) So, if you are looking for a tough, resilient ground cover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennaria . Photo Credit: flickr.com (1) & gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org (2)

< Back Storing Root Vegetables Over the Winter Did you have a bumper crop of potatoes sweet potatoes, carrots, beets or turnips this year? You worked hard this year to produce that crop! Here are some helpful tips on how to store them to last for use all throughout winter and into spring. Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Potatoes Step 1: Dry them . After harvest, remove any damaged potatoes. Leave the rest outside to dry for a couple of hours. Don’t wash them but brush off excess dirt. Step 2: Cure them . Keep the potatoes in a dark, humid place for one to two weeks. These conditions help prevent rot. Indoors near the furnace works best. Spread out the potatoes in boxes and covered with cloth to enhance humidity. If you want to speed up this process, you can lay them out on racks or pallets, make a tent over them with light weight tarps or blankets and turn a box fan on under the tent. This will aid with drying them. Step 3: Choose a spot . For long-term cold storage, find a storage area that’s dry and dark, such as a basement, garage or shed with plenty of ventilation. A temperature of 35° to 40° is good. Step 4: Pack them . Pack the potatoes in a wooden crate, or something similar, with slatted sides and bottom. Alternate layers of newspaper and potatoes until the stack reaches 6 to 8 inches high. Make sure the newspaper covers the open slats so that light can’t get in. Step 5: Keep an eye on them . Check your potatoes monthly and remove any that are beginning to rot. One rotten spud will ruin the lot. Some varieties store better than others—russet potatoes are among the best. Sweet Potatoes and Yams Step 1: Time your harvest correctly . Wait for dry weather to dig up sweet potatoes and yams. Wet tubers attract insects, disease and mold. Wipe all the dirt off, but don’t get them wet. Step 2: Cure them . Lay the tubers in a warm location, similar to potato storage. Let them dry for 10 days to two weeks. Curing ensures excess moisture is drawn out, preventing mildew. Step 3: Pack them . Box up the tubers or wrap them in newspaper. Store them in a cool pantry or closet at 55° to 60°. If no cool place is available, pack them in layers of sand in barrels or crates. The sand cushions and keeps the tubers cool, but not cold enough to freeze. Place the containers in a moderately warm basement or garage. I have a barely heated garage. We keep it around 50 degrees or cooler, so that works well. Carrots, Beets, Turnips, Parsnips Step 1: Trim the tops . Cut off the leafy tops. Left on, they will draw moisture from the vegetable. Brush off loose dirt and remove any damaged ones. Step 2: Pack them . Place the root vegetables, unwashed, in boxes layered with slightly damp sand. I used Rubbermaid totes and buried the carrots, the tops that were exposed sprouted and grew very tall in the dark cool garage, but the carrots still tasted good. Step 3: Store them . Keep them in a cool place. Step 4: Keep an eye on them . Check regularly for spoilage and moisture, which causes rot, or dryness that could cause them to harden and split. Store your root vegetables correctly and you can enjoy your home-grown root vegetables all season! Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1,3), pxfuel.com (2)

< Back Tomatoes: What to do Now for Luscious Tomatoes This Summer Tomatoes are one of the most home-grown crop; probably because there is nothing like that big bite or slice of that juicy, delicious red ball. But many enthusiastic home gardeners find themselves frustrated or disappointed in their tomato crop. This article explains gardening practices that you can adopt to increase the chances of producing happy, healthy tomato plants in your yard. Michelle Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Many people eagerly await that first bite of homegrown tomatoes every summer. And that first succulent bite is achieved by the work you do now, early in the summer. First, it is not too late to plant tomatoes, but at this point, you will need to purchase plants if you did not start your own. Whether you choose an heirloom or a modern variety (often bred to decrease susceptibility to disease and other unfavorable traits) is a personal preference. One approach to choosing might be to get a variety you have grown before and a variety new to you. Some other characteristics you may want to consider relate to the disease resistance of the tomato plant. Plants marked with “F, FF, FFF” are resistant to fusarium diseases, while a “V” indicates resistance to Verticillium Wilt. A plant marked with “VF” is resistant to fusarium and verticillium wilts. A plant labeled with “EB” is resistant to Early Blight. If you choose a tomato that does not indicate that it has been developed with resistance to different tomato diseases, you’ll want to implement some good, basic gardening practices to decrease the risk of losing your tomato crop. Choose a tomato with a sturdy stem that is at least a pencil width. Make sure there are no spotted leaves as that may be an indicator of disease. Leaves should be spaced closely together. There are two main types of tomatoes; determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are bushy and generally do not need pruning, staking, or trellising. The top, also called terminal point, ends with flowers and fruit. They grow to about 24 – 30 inches tall and produce fruits within a 4 to 6-week period. They may be best for container grown tomatoes. Most tomato plants are Indeterminate and they are vining. They do need support to keep their leaves and tomatoes off the ground, allow for air flow, and reduce the risk of diseases. The terminal point keeps growing as the plant grows. Tomatoes grow along the branches, and they will produce fruit until it gets too cold. Stake or trellis plants immediately when you plant them. Good tomato gardening practices start with ensuring good soil. You want rich loamy soil that drains well. If you don’t know what kind of soil, you can do a soil test from the University of Minnesota and add amendments such as fertilizer or other missing nutrients. The next critical step is to not plant your tomatoes in the same place every year. You need to rotate them to different areas in your garden, if at all possible. This helps decrease the threat of diseases that remain in the soil. It is recommended to wait three to four years before planting tomatoes again in that spot. Make sure you space your tomatoes a sufficient distance apart. You can find that information on the seed package or the plant tag. Dig a hole deep enough to place the whole container part of the plant and remove lower leaves and branches so they aren’t touching the soil. If you have a slightly crooked plant, you can actually dig the hole even deeper so the above ground part is the straight part. The tomato will actually grow roots from the stem that is underground. Consistent watering is critical to prevent “blossom end rot” (where the tomato has a black bottom), as is an adequate amount of calcium. You can find products in the store that you may want to periodically add throughout the season. When you water your tomatoes, make sure to water at the base of the plant and not overhead. This reduces disease risk on the leaves and prevents water splashing from the soil onto the plant, which is another source of tomato diseases. You will want to water deeply to help promote deep rooted plants. Generally, one inch a week is recommended but you may need to water more frequently if it is very hot and dry, or your tomato is in a container. Sandy soils will require more frequent watering, too. Despite your best efforts, you may still find diseases impacting your tomato plants and your tomatoes. Early blight, tomato viruses, bacterial spot, and late blight are some of the diseases that plague many Minnesota tomato growers due to Minnesota’s climate. To learn more about each of these diseases and how you can recognize them on your tomato plants, you can learn more here: Tomato Diseases . In addition to tomato diseases, you will need to watch for insects that may impact your tomato harvest. Insects to be aware of include: cutworms, flea beetles, Colorado potato beetle, aphids, sap beetles, and tomato hornworms (for more information, start here: Insects and Tomato Plants ) Finally, some common problems you may experience and may have little ability to prevent are: blossom end rot, growth cracks (fruit grows too quickly), catfacing (many causes), leaf roll, sunscald (tomato fruit gets too much sun), and yellow shoulders (top never ripens). You can find more information on these disorders here: Tomato disorders Tomatoes are not hard to grow but do require some specific gardening practices to ensure you can get a lot of fruit that are healthy and tasty. And most gardeners will agree that they are worth all the effort! Reference: University of Minnesota Extension Gardening Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens Photo credits: UMN Extension (1-5), University of Wisconsin Madison Extension (6)

< Back Garlic Butter Brussel Sprouts Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s March and this month green vegetables may be top of mind (thanks to Saint Patrick, I’m sure). Garden seeds are sprouting under their grow lights and we are excited for warmer days to come when they’ve grown large enough to transplant outside into our gardens. In the meantime, here is a recipe for one green vegetable – brussels sprouts. According to the author, Joy Johnson, even the pickiest of brussels sprouts eaters will love this recipe! For this month’s recipe, I’ll admit I used store bought brussels sprouts. I have grown them in my garden, but I have not had any last in cool storage until March. I’ve never tried to freeze them and would welcome any tips on doing that in case I have a bumper crop this year. Usually, we gobble them up fresh from the garden in late fall. This recipe will tickle your taste buds with it’s spicey, smokey flavors that are cooled with a lemon Aioli sauce to drizzle on just before eating. Garlic Butter Brussels Sprouts Ingredients : 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 4 slices bacon, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 Tablespoons salted butter, melted 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or grated A couple sprigs of fresh thyme for garnish A couple of lemon wedges Process : Preheat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack positioned in the lower third of the oven. In a gallon plastic food storage bag, gently shake together the Brussels sprouts, olive oil, thyme and red pepper flakes. Arrange the Brussels sprouts cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Lay the bacon pieces over the sprouts. Roast until the sprouts are deeply browned and the bacon is crisp, 20 – 25 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the melted butter and the garlic. Remove the sprouts from the oven and pour the butter mixture over them. Return the sprouts to the oven and roast until crispy, 10 minutes. Smokey Lemon Aioli Ingredients: ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 1 garlic clove, finely chopped or grated ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon smoked paprika Salt Process : In a small bowl stir together the mayonnaise, lemon juice, garlic, cayenne and paprika. Taste and add salt as needed. Pile the Brussels sprouts onto a serving plate, sprinkle with the sprigs of fresh thyme, and squeeze the lemon wedges over them. Serve with the bowl of aioli for dipping or drizzle it over them. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,3), foto.wuestenigel.com (2)

< Back Now Swaying in the Minnesota Breeze, It’s the UMN Duluth Developed Innovatrees (Poplar Variety) Mary Gadek, Master Gardener University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and give such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of landscape tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. University of Minnesota Duluth has bred the fast-growing InnovaTree Poplar Variety tree for both residential and commercial applications. Trees in our yards can provide shade, privacy, and firewood for people as well as cover and food for wild animals and birds. Often, it takes many years for a tree to grow and furnish such benefits to our yards. The InnovaTree is a game changer for landscape trees in Minnesota by being selectively bred to capture the benefits of tree growing, while eliminating typical issues encountered with trees. Learn more here about the InnovaTree Poplar Variety’s characteristics, growing needs and nursery locations. Characteristics The poplar tree variety is a cross between native Eastern cottonwood and European black poplar. It has been naturally cross bred at University of Minnesota Duluth over 25 years. Landowners can use the tree for privacy screens, wildlife habitat, windbreaks, conservation plantings and firewood. Tree size: Growing 64% faster than similar varieties, the InnovaTree shoots up about 10 feet each year, reaching 35 feet in less than 5 years and a mature height of over 75 feet. Note: Because of its fast growth and aggressive root system, it is best not to plant near power lines, roadways or buildings. Seedless and Cottonless: Unlike standard cottonwood trees, it is cottonless. Leaf retention: Good late-season leaf retention, with yellow fall foliage. Disease Resistance: Resistant to stem canker and leaf disease Non-GMO Will not spread: InnovaTree does not spread by suckering; meaning, you will not have tiny trees growing up from its root system. It is not an invasive species risk. Growing Needs Minnesota hardy for zones 3-6 Light: Full sun Soil: Loves to grow in well-drained loam, sand loam, clay loam and light clay soils Moisture: Will tolerate occasional flooding and drought, but prefers moist, well-drained soil Nursery Locations For current nurseries offering the InnovaTree Poplar Variety, click on this link: https://innovatree.umn.edu/buy For additional information, including commercial applications, see: https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/fast-growing-tree and https://innovatree.umn.edu/about-tree/frequently-asked-questions Photo credit: UMN.edu (1,3)

< Back What the HECK is a CARDOON??? Had any cardoons as your vegetable lately? What’s a cardoon you say? You won’t be alone if you have never heard of this vegetable. It is more commonly grown and eaten in Mediterranean countries. However, this vegetable can be grown in Minnesota and is available in some grocery stores at this time of year. Read this article if you are interested in a vegetable that offers something different. Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Invited to see someone’s “cardoons”, I wouldn’t know whether to expect a company of gerbil-like creatures romping around in a cage or necklaces made of rare berries. But imagine being presented with a dish of leaves and stalks and invited to eat the cardoons! Cardoons, it turns out, are vegetables, similar to globe artichokes. Grown from Portugal to Libya and Croatia, cardoons, with their artichoke-like flavor, were popular in ancient Greek, Roman, and Persian cuisine through the Middle Ages. They were also used in colonial America and early modern periods in Europe. Once almost entirely a Mediterranean vegetable, cardoons recently returned to the American market. Although not as common as their cousin the artichoke, you can usually find them at farmers' markets, specialty grocers, and upscale grocery stores when they are in season . Unlike artichokes, the tender young leaves and undeveloped flower stalks are eaten, not the flower bud. A winter vegetable, cardoons arrive in stores around December and hang around until early spring. They can keep for weeks in the fridge. Buy them firm and pale. Most of the top leaves will be chopped off already, making them look a lot like celery, although MUCH longer. Cardoons are perennials up to zone 7 and sometimes zone 6 (if mounded with soil during the winter), so they are grown in Minnesota as annuals. They require at least 8 hours of sunlight, and they prefer well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.5–7.0. Add compost or well-rotted manure to improve the soil. Cardoons need a lot of space to spread - plant them 2–3 feet apart in rows 3–6 feet apart. Tall varieties may need staking. Cardoons are easy to grow from seed so they can be started indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost, or you can buy container-grown plants. Cardoons need 100 days to grow from seed to harvest. Propagate cardoons by seeds, suckers, or root division. Both plants and seeds are available online. Blanch the stalks before harvest. Accomplish this by tying up the outer branches a foot or so from the top of the plant and piling soil up around the plant as it grows. This keeps sunlight from reaching the stalks which then keeps chlorophyll from forming, making the stalks more tender and easier to cook. Cardoons can be prepared a number of different ways, although – be forewarned - all of them are labor intensive. The tough ridges of the outer stalks must first be removed and many recipes require hours of soaking. But cardoons can be eaten raw, dipped in hummus or nut butter, the leaves tossed in salads, the stalks cut in pieces, fried, (after being peeled, soaked, poached and breaded), or added to stews, especially those cooked in crock pots. Additional ways to prepare cardoons after initial trimming and blanching include: Cardoons Gratin , in which they are baked with olive oil and cheese. Delicious and well worth making if you only plan to eat cardoons once in a great while. Cardoons in a bechamel sauce. Cardoon risotto . Silky, rich, and the slight bitterness of the cardoons really balances everything nicely. Blanched with bagna cauda , a garlicky-anchovy sauce. Excellent as a canape . In a salad , tossed in a vinaigrette. Simple and good. Use only the innermost stalks, washed well and sliced thin. Fried . An excellent if simple dish. Also, an unusual appetizer, especially coated in chickpea flour and fry with olive oil. And finally - are you ready for this ? - the cardoon’s flowers can be used to make cheese . The enzymes in its dried flowers, when mixed with milk, curdle, albeit slowly. Which results in a rennet which is creamier than calf’s rennet. Portugal, where the cardoon is popular, produces several cheeses using its rennet because of its earthy and tangy flavor. If you enjoy cooking unusual foods, and don’t mind a long preparation time for something really different and tasty, cardoons are for you. Enjoy this ancient and unique vegetable! REFERENCES “Cardoon, Cynara cardunculus”, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/cardoon-cynara-cardunculus/ “Cardoon”, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/cardoon.html Shaw, Hunter, “Growing and Cooking Cardoons”, https://honest-food.net/contemplating-cardoons/ Smith, Annabelle K., “What the Heck Do I Do with a Cardoon”, Smithsonian Magazine , https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/what-heck-do-i-do-cardoon-180950301/ Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), Inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com (2)

< Back Squash the Holiday Host Competition with a Winter Variety We plant, grow, and nurture our vegetable gardens for the healthy fruits of our fall harvest and also as decorations for our Thanksgiving table and décor. As we look forward to preparing deeply satisfying hearty dishes from a bountiful Fall harvest, winter squash holds a special place at the table. Learn more about two special squash varieties – Sugar Pumpkins and Kabocha Squash in this article. Katie Possis, Master Gardener It’s that time of year when our thoughts turn to celebrating Thanksgiving with family and friends and the joy of decorating for the holiday. We plant, grow, and nurture our vegetable gardens for the healthy fruits of our fall harvest and also as decorations for our Thanksgiving table and décor. As we look forward to preparing deeply satisfying hearty dishes from a bountiful Fall harvest, winter squash holds a special place at the table. Winter squash are fruit that grow on the vine. They are from the genus Cucurbita from the family Cucurbitaceae. There are, of course, subtle differences that set them apart from each other. This article will talk about 2 of the 12 most popular squash varieties along with interesting recipes that excite the taste buds. Sugar Pumpkins Starting with a favorite - Sugar Pumpkins are nutrient packed. For example: one cooked cup of Pumpkin has 49 calories, 76 grams of protein, 17 grams of fat and 1 gram of carbohydrate; a real booster for the immune system. Sugar Pumpkins have thick skin with sweet flesh and are less fibrous than other winter squash. For a new favorite recipe using roasted pumpkin, check out the recipe Pumpkin With Creme Fraiche, Peanut Rayu, Coriander & Spring Onion. - GIY Ireland Ltd for a real treat. Tip for choosing: make sure your pumpkin is heavier than you expect it to be when you pick it up, the skin needs to be firm and a fingernail should not pierce the skin, the stem needs to look like is has died off and is hard. A pumpkin’s stem is the seal between the stalk and fruit. Never lift the pumpkin by the stem as breaking this seal may cause molds and fungal spores which ensure speedy decay. If the pumpkin has been properly cured, it will be beautifully intact for several months. Proper curing takes a few weeks but it’s worth the effort. The pumpkin needs to be dried in the sun, kept away from rain and moisture. Do this for the top side up for 2 weeks then gently flip over for the bottom side to cure for the next two weeks. The curing process can also be accomplished inside next to a sunny window. As this point, the pumpkin is ready to adorn your front steps or buffet table. Kabocha Squash Second up, Kabocha Squash is a Japanese variety of the Cucurbita maxima species. Often used in Japanese and Korean cooking, this squash has a dark green and orange rind. Known for its nutty, earthiness, and with a kiss of sweet flavor, it is a great choice for cooking. The nutritional value of one cup of cooked Kabocha - 49 calories, 1.8 grams protein, 0.2 grams of fat, and 8 grams of carbohydrate. Great news, this squash has a lower glycemic load than a sweet potato which won’t make the blood sugar spike. A great recipe to try is Korean Braised Kabocha Squash - The Plant-Based Wok (theplantbasedwok.com) Enjoy! Tips for growing: the Kabocha squash can be grown in full sun 6-8 hours on a trellis which gives height and interest to your garden landscape. The trellis will need a minimum of two to three supports hammered into the ground deep enough for the frame to hold the heavy plant laden with large fruit. The benefits of trellising for the plant are great air circulation and room to grow as each plant will need approximately 10 to 15 feet in length. The rich deep green of the Kabocha squash pairs nicely with orange pumpkins, yellow spaghetti squash, and blues of the Hubbard of the winter squash to create a visual feast for the eyes. Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), Foodblogga.blogspot.com (2)

< Back To Every Weed (Turn, Turn, Turn) There is a Season (Turn, Turn, Turn) Marjory Blare, Master Gardener As you get excited about the growing season really getting going, you may also be seeing weeds popping up amongst your more intentional plantings. Wondering what you can do to keep those weeds in check? Read on for information from Master Gardener Marjory Blare on identifying weeds and some ideas for managing them. Weed: a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth especially : one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants. It is late spring, and I stand looking with satisfaction at the bucket of prickly lettuce seedlings at my feet, but make the mistake of glancing back at the hillside of shrubs and perennials. With a wilting feeling, I start seeing the vast number of Purselane and Spotted Spurge seedlings. By mid-summer Lambs Quarters, Redroot Pigweed, and Ragweed (achoo!) will have germinated. I know that come early fall I will be seeing Horseweed and Pineapple-weed. Identifying weeds can give you information on how to get rid of them, which are invasive, which are edible and which ones toxic or irritating to humans and/or animals. Knowing which weeds you have can tell you if you have compacted soils, rich soils or soils deficient in various nutrients. They can be annual (come up every year from seed), perennial (overwintering roots), or biennial (weeds that form a basal rosette the first year and produce flowers and seeds the second year). Weeds commonly germinate in the spring, some germinate in the fall, and there are others that come up just when you think your flower beds, pathways and gravel drives are weed free. Then, oh dear, there are the ones that can germinate, set seed and germinate again! Here are a few weeds you might encounter. For more resources on identifying and managing weeds: If you have a plant and want to know if it's a weed, this UMN Extension link will help you. https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/ Here is the Extension site for lawn weeds and what to do about them. https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/lawn-weeds The DNR has this site to help you identify invasive weeds, and what to do about them, including reporting certain weeds to the DNR. https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/index.html Here is one link to edible weeds, but, look for the coming Buzz article on edible weeds. https://my.chicagobotanic.org/tag/edible-weeds/ Weeds of the Upper Midwest by Teresa Marrone This is a book highly recommended by Dakota County Master Gardener Sally Macnamara “I know a weed when I see it. Although identifying a weed is not strictly necessary, it can be satisfying to know the enemy.” - Marjory Blare Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,3,4,5) & istock.com/photos/common-purslane (2)