< Back Avoid Overbuying Seeds Gardening season is over for this year. Or is it? Are you already dreaming and planning for next year’s garden? Soon it will be time to buy seeds. But don’t let your enthusiasm lead you to overbuying seeds. The best way to avoid overbuying is to use a systematic process for planning, purchasing, and storing seeds. Read this article for some tips to help you plan wisely. BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener Before you shop Create a garden map . Sketch out your garden space and calculate the total area in square feet. Measure the size of your beds and sketch what you want to plant in each area, accounting for spacing. Asking a neighbor, friend or family member to assist with measuring helps this step flow smoothly. How much space do you have for direct sowing? Or will you begin with indoor seedlings, shelves and grow lights? The University of Minnesota Extension has many resources for planning successfully. Vegetables . Choose plants your family will eat. Look beyond the attractive photos in catalogs and focus on vegetables you know you will consume. Start with a few favorites and limit yourself to just two or three new vegetables per season. Flowers . Choose plants to provide color and variety throughout the growing season. If you are just starting a new or replacement decorative garden, chose perhaps three or four types. For example, plants you have seen growing well near you. For me, I like flowers that remind me of family gardens of my youth. Check your existing inventory . Before ordering, sort through the seeds you already have. Organize them in labeled containers to know what you have and what you need. When storing, check the shelf life. Remember that some seeds have a shorter shelf life than others. For example, onion seeds are only viable for one to two years, while tomatoes and peppers can last for several years. Calculate your needs . Rather than buying a large packet, determine the quantity you need based on the number of plants you want. For example, if you want four plants, you will only need about five seeds, assuming a 90% germination rate. Some seed companies offer online calculators to help. It’s fun to spend the gardening off-season planning and buying seeds. But holding your enthusiasm in check will help you to avoid some buying waste. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), www.gardenorganic.org.uk (from all creative commons) (3)

< Back Try the Many Ways to Enjoy Swiss Chard Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener In the featured vegetable section of this newsletter, you read about how to grow Swiss Chard. In this article, you will learn about the many delicious ways that you can include Chard in your dinner menus. There are so many ways to enjoy this beautiful garden vegetable. Swiss Chard (Chard) is a green leafy vegetable that has multiple health benefits, in addition to being very tasty. It is best eaten fresh, but can be frozen. Chard can be stored up to 2 or 3 weeks in the refrigerator but is best eaten within 2 to 3 days. Chard can be eaten raw or cooked. When eaten raw, it is usually best to select the younger, smaller leaves. These can be included in salads, much like you would add spinach. Other common ways of eating raw Chard are in sandwiches, wraps, and smoothies. The University of Nebraska Extension provides this nice list of different ways you could use Chard. Top 10 Ways to Enjoy Swiss Chard One‐Pot Dish: Dinner couldn’t be easier with one pot stir fry featuring Swiss Chard. Ravioli filled with Swiss Chard, part ricotta, and a touch of parmesan cheese. Finish your your favorite sauce. Scrambled eggs or omelets: replace spinach with Swiss Chard. Add fresh tomato for a burst of flavor. Soup. Whether it’s minestrone, beef barley, or vegetable, Swiss Chard makes a scrumptious addition to any soup. Pasta: Layer Swiss Chard in your lasagna or toss if with pasta in a light olive oil and lemon sauce. Finish with freshly cracked pepper. Quiche. Substitute Swiss Chard for spinach in your favorite quiche recipe. It pairs beautifully with egg whites and a little pancetta. Stir Fry. For extra nutrition and flavor, add fresh Swiss Chard to stir fried brown rice just before serving. Stew. Try adding Swiss Chard to stews. It boasts an elegant balance of sweet and savory. Pizza. Swiss Chard makes a delicious … and unexpected … pizza topping. Try adding it to your pizza marinara sauce. Steamed. Steam the stalks of Swiss chard and eat them as you would asparagus. Very Simple Swiss Chard Cooking Preparation (basically steaming) Place Swiss Chard in a pan Add a small amount of water Cook on medium heat until wilted and stalks are soft Eat with butter, salt, and pepper to taste. Variations: Instead of water, use olive oil. Add garlic to taste (most recipes suggest 2-3 cloves, minced) Salt and pepper Red pepper flakes Juice of a ½ a lemon The University of Purdue Extension has a delicious recipe that uses another favorite vegetable I wrote about earlier this year, the Sweet Potato. It also features black beans. Sweet Potato and Black Bean Stew with Swiss Chard This hearty main dish combines the sweetness of orange sweet potatoes and the robustness of black beans, with the surprise addition of Swiss chard and a light touch of cumin. Serve over brown rice or whole-wheat couscous for a warm delight! Recipe adapted from the What’s Cooking? USDA Mixing Bowl Website ( https://www.whatscooking.fns.usda.gov/ ) . Prep 20 min Cook 40 min Total Time 60 min Servings: 6 Ingredients 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 small whole, dried New Mexican chili pepper 1 1/4 cups fresh onion (diced) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 1/2 cups fresh sweet potatoes (peeled and cut into half-inch cubes) 6 cups (about 3 cans) low-sodium black beans (drained and rinsed) 3/4 cup orange juice 1 cup low-sodium chicken stock 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 4 cups fresh Swiss chard (stems removed and chopped) Directions 1. Dice onion. 2. In a large pot, heat vegetable oil over medium heat. Add onion and whole chili pepper and cook for 1-2 minutes. 3. Add cumin and cook for 2 minutes. 4. Add sweet potatoes, black beans, orange juice, and chicken stock. Bring to a boil, then cover, and reduce heat to low. 5. Simmer until the potatoes are tender (about 20 minutes). 6. Remove chili pepper and discard. 7. Add vinegar, salt, and pepper. 8. Add Swiss chard, cover, and continue cooking until chard is tender. Serve hot. 9. May serve over brown rice or whole-wheat couscous. Nutrition Information Serving Size: 1 cup Nutrients Amount Total Calories: 222 Protein: 10g Carbohydrates: 43g Dietary Fiber: 12g Total Fat: 4g Photo Credit: Chezlouloufrance.blogspot.com (all creative commons) (1)

< Back Know Your Resources “Hey, Siri, what’s the best kind of mulch for my garden?” This is a question often overheard in a plant center from someone trying to make a selection for their yard. And while Siri can give some options, one has to doubt the accuracy of the reply. Questionable advice can always be found somewhere, whether that’s from artificial intelligence or your neighbor’s second cousin on Facebook, but surely there’s a better way to get the most accurate and helpful answers! This article explains how you can find answers to many of your gardening questions from experts and based on research. Read on to learn how to find reliable answers to your gardening questions. Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener For Dakota County gardeners, let’s get better acquainted with two websites: the U of MN Extension site and our Dakota County Master Gardener site. You can bookmark these on your phone, computer, or tablet—and I encourage anyone to do so. You can find hundreds of helpful articles, guides, books, pamphlets, and more, all available for free! Everything is backed by scientific research and all specific to our growing zone and climate. U of MN EXTENSION SITE: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden From this start page, you see several specific guides to get started in the garden and solve common problems. How-To Guides Growing Guides (starting a garden, composting, fertilizing, hydroponics, houseplants, and more) Pollinator Guides Growing Safe Food Soil and Nutrient Health (including information on how to get your soil tested to learn which fertilizers are best for it ) Watering Guides Landscape design Lawn Care (with calendars for when to seed, mow, and more) Find Plants Flowers (annuals, perennials, native flowers) Fruit Houseplants Native Plants Trees and Shrubs Vegetables Weeds (identify weeds and learn control strategies) What’s wrong with my plant? This helps you diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases, or other issues. If, for example, your eggplants look strange in the vegetable garden this summer, look up eggplants in this guide to learn what the issue is and solve the problem going forward. Weeds Identify the weed in your lawn and find the best way to eradicate or manage it. Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers : https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/ On our local Dakota County Master Gardener website, you’ll find a calendar of local events as well as updates on our local projects and other gardening resources. You will also find dozens of articles on a variety of gardening topics (most articles previously found in the Garden Buzz monthly newsletter). You will find articles on what you might be doing in your garden monthly, good gardening tips, features on native and perennial plants and vegetables; recipes using vegetables or fruits from your garden, and tips to deal with problems in or related to your garden. There is a search box to help you find articles by topic. There is also a link to subscribe to our Garden Buzz newsletter. This is a great supplement to the statewide website. Information on Let’s Get Growing (our spring gardening expo) and the Annual Plant Sale in May is there, as well as a list of the farmers’ markets where our Master Gardener Volunteers will be, answering questions and ready to discuss home gardens with all who stop by. Other resources of note: Gardening Projects with Children This section has dozens of project ideas to do with the kid gardeners in your life! Projects are available for all seasons and incorporate science learning and art. Gardening Book Club Recommendations Looking for a book to read with your gardening club? We’ve got you covered with dozens of book reviews on horticultural topics. Finally, a last way to get information on gardening and the Dakota County Master Gardener projects going on all around you is to follow us on Facebook and Instagram . When the U of MN offers free webinars on pollinators or when a garden tour in our area pops up, we’ll be sure to let you know! Photo credits: Photo 1 for newsletter: Credit Paul Wood Photo 2, credit: U of M Extension

< Back Spotted Horsemint (Monarda punctata): A Beauty with Many Names Jim Lakin, MD Master Gardener Are you looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden? Consider Spotted Horsemint. This native is valuable to pollinators as it attracts butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. It will look great in your garden as a border or mass planting. It seems like the prettier and more agreeable the plant the more names it collects. This is certainly true of Monarda punctata. She’s called Dotted or Spotted Horsemint, Dotted or Spotted Bee Balm or sometimes just Bee Balm to be confused with true Bee Balm ( Monarda fistulosa) that we talked about last month. I point this out not just to prove that Linnaeus was right to assign unpronounceable Latin names to everything that grows. To make certain you’re getting the right plant, be sure to select Monarda punctata when you are looking for spotted horsemint in your local nursery or seed catalogue. When you do get the real thing, you’ll be acquiring a hardy perennial herbaceous that is native to Eastern and Central North America all the way up to Zone 3a. This should tell you it’s a pretty tough customer in addition to being a showy addition to your summer garden. From July through September, it produces yellowish to purple-spotted 3-to-6-inch flowers in whorls on a densely packed elongated spike. Below the flowers, large, purplish leaf-like bracts set off the arrangement. Being a member of the mint family Lamiaceae, spotted horsemint puts out runners to form fairly large clumps if left to its own devices. It is not considered to be too aggressive, however. Plants tend to grow to about 1 to 2 feet, occasionally taller. You should space them out by 12 to 24 inches when planting. It is important to allow for air circulation among the plants as they are susceptible to powdery mildew and rust. However, this usually occurs late in the season after flowering. If it is a cosmetic problem, prune the affected stems. Spotted horsemint likes full sun but will put up with part shade (direct sunlight for 2-6 hours per day). It does best in loam, silt or sandy soil which can be an issue here in our clay-ridden Minnesota soil, although I’ve not found that to be too great a problem with Monarda . As you would expect, it is found in the wild in prairies, sandy areas, rocky woodlands and coastal plains. It will even self-seed in almost pure sand. The prairie strains at least are fairly drought resistant. Spotted horsemint is of substantial value to the native wildlife attracting a plethora of butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. Happily, it is not a valuable food source for deer or rabbits who tend to leave it alone unless things are getting desperate. So, if you are looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden consider spotted horsemint. As a border or a mass planting, it does great! Photo credits: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Plantjourneys.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Your Answers to Rain Barrels - To Use or Not to Use You may have considered a rain barrel for your yard but wondered whether it was right for you. Rain barrels have environmental benefits but there are pros and cons to using them in your garden. This article provides some helpful information to help you decide whether to invest in a rain barrel for your garden. Linda Holt, Master Gardener You may have considered a rain barrel for your yard but wondered whether they were right for you. This article explains some of the pros and cons of using rain barrels to provide water to the plants in your garden. You will want to decide whether a rain barrel will fulfill your garden’s specific needs to the extent that will make it worth the expense and upkeep. A few of the Pro’s for using a rain barrel in your yard include: 1. The cost of water is going up and the ability to use municipal sources to water your landscape are becoming more limited. Harvesting rainwater may lower your water bill. 2. Rain barrels are a good way to “maximize environmental value” by reducing run-off into the streets and the pollutants that are picked up along the way that are feeding into our streams, rivers and lakes. 3. The rain water is a great alternative for the ornamental plants in your yard as well as indoor plants. 4. This water source can be utilized any day of the week. 5. Rainwater may contain minerals that are beneficial to plants; However, there are some cons to rain water usage: 1. The water is not safe for drinking nor should it ever touch the edible parts of any plants grown for consumption. The rainfall is collected from a roof / gutter system, the runoff of which may include various “harmful pathogens” resulting from bird fecal matter, rotting leaves, etc. 2. To collect enough water for your purposes you may need multiple rain barrels. 3. Some upkeep is necessary to keep your rain barrel in good shape. Most rain barrels hold around 50-55 gallons of water. In order to determine how much rainwater you can expect from your rain barrel, you must estimate the amount of run off from your particular roof. This requires a thoughtful determination of the square footage of the roof area multiplied by the rainfall in inches and a conversion factor that converts the inches of rainfall to gallons per sq foot. This calculation can be found at: https://extensionpublications.unl.edu/assets/html/g2220/build/g2220.htm Rain barrels can be purchased from various retailers or on-line and come in a variety of shapes and designs. They can also be self-built. There are many DIY rain barrel ideas that can be found on the internet if you prefer to build your own. As mentioned in the above online publication, rain barrels are best dark-colored or opaque as light colored barrels allow sunlight in encouraging algae growth. Rain barrels come complete with a hose guide, overflow tube and screen (to keep critters and debris out) and are relatively easy to install. You will want to position the rain barrel under a drain spout so that the run-off from the roof will flow into the rain barrel. The overflow tube prevents the barrel from overflowing and directs the excess water to a garden bed or base of a tree. You can attach a drain tube to the overflow tube to reach the area of the garden that you wish to receive the water. Cleaning a rain barrel should be done annually in the fall when they are removed and stored away for winter, however, you may need to do it more frequently if they grow algae and get smelly. You should drain the barrel and remove any remaining debris. Scrub the inside of the barrel with a long-handled brush using water and detergent then rinse thoroughly. Including a rain barrel in your landscape may be just the answer to your irrigation concerns. The University of MN extension department has a handy article for you to peruse when giving consideration to this subject. You will find additional information at: https://extension.umn.edu/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard/rain-barrels Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back Red Pine (Pinus resinosa): Star of the North Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener What tree is as Minnesotan as hot dish or dessert bars? It’s red pine, of course. This state tree is not for the small lot but will be a striking addition to the larger lot or farmstead. Read more about this stately native in this article, the last of Jim Lakin’s series on native trees for Minnesota gardeners. It’s the state tree of L‘Étoile du Nord , which, of course, is the state motto of Minnesota. Indeed, red pine is as Minnesotan as hot dish and dessert bars. So where does this venerable conifer fit into the landscaping picture? It probably is not the best choice for a small lot, growing 65 to 115 feet in height with about a 3-foot trunk. In larger lots or farmsteads, however, stands of the tree it can make a striking addition or serve as an admirable windbreak. It is native to the Upper Midwest with a range from Newfoundland west to Manitoba and south to Pennsylvania with populations down the Appalachian mountain range. It is sometimes called “Norway pine.” It is hypothesized that this name came from early Norwegian settlers mistaking it for the Scotch pine found back home. At least that’s what the Swedes say! a stand of red pine Red pine grows in full sunlight, shooting up straight and true. This growth feature made it especially attractive to lumbermen of the early 19 th century, leading to the great lumber baron fortunes of that period (and the despoliation of countless acres of Minnesota woodland). Interestingly, red pine is self-pruning. Thus, you don’t see dead branches below the canopy in forests. The needles are long, dark yellow-green and brittle. Pine cones are classic 1 ½ to 3 ½ inch long and broad. The bark forms reddish-brown plates as the tree matures; thus, the name red pine. reddish brown bark of red pine In sighting red pine, be aware that you may get by with part sun, but it is quite intolerant of full shade. It is hardy from Zones 2 through 5, so that means all of Minnesota. It will grow on nutrient-poor, sandy soil unfavorable to most species. It likes average moisture in well-drained loam. Although it is grown, plantation style in straight rows for the lumber industry, red pine is also abundant in our northern forests. It serves as nesting habitat for eagles as well as other birds. In cold, northern climates, red pine has few problems. However, in warmer climates as seen in the southern part of the state, it may fall prey to a number of insect pests and diseases. Needle cast, needle blight, root rots, bark cancer and rusts may be issues. Budworms, sawflies, pine beetles, tussock moth and pine needle miners can plague the tree. red pine cone So, if you have the appropriate site, consider red pine. A healthy, established stand will be a stately joy for many years. Life spans up to 500 years have been reported for this hardy Star of the North! Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back Hens and Chicks Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener Sometimes referred to as a “roof Housesleek,” because they would often grow on houses, Hens and Chicks are a delightful perennial even if just grown in your garden. Read Master Gardener Gail Maifeld’s article for more on why Hens and Chicks are perfect for that dry, sunny spot in your yard. Native to Europe and Africa, Hens and Chicks are sometimes referred to as a roof Houseleek as they were grown on houses. Historically, the plant was found along stone walls, slate shingled roofs, and areas of poor sandy soil. The succulent grows as a mat in full sun and is also drought tolerant and deer resistant. Leaves are arranged in rosettes with the center one being the hen. Chicks form around the hen after the bloom fades. Although not planted for the blooms, the daisy like flowers can be light pink, reddish-purple, and pale green. There are several varieties to choose from: Sempervivum Arachnoideum: (cobweb houseleek) – Tips of the leaves are entwined with hairy fibers that appear to be cobwebs Pale green blooms Zones 5-8 Sempervivum Tectorum – Small rosettes quickly forming a 6”-10” mat Flowers may or may not form Reddish leaves and blooms Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Atropureum - This variety has dark reddish-purple leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Limelight – This variety has yellow-green, pink tipped leaves Zones 3-8 Sempervivum Pacific Hawk – This variety has dark red leaves edged with silvery hairs Zones 3-8. Overwatering can lead to root rot so check the soil around the plant before watering. The varieties can be house plants but require a cactus potting soil or sand added to regular potting soil. The plant is divided by separating the new rosettes and rooting them. Blooms of Hens and Chicks do not have a recognizable scent. After the bloom fades it can be cut off or allowed to die back and form compost. Hens and chicks are a low maintenance, drought tolerant plant, and will add interest to a full sun, sandy soil location. For that problematic sunny spot that needs some attention - plant Hens and Chicks. Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2)

< Back Shoreline Planting Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Aaah…lake life in Minnesota is in full swing! As we motor, paddle or splash around, notice the shorelines of our lakes, rivers, streams or ponds. Some are full of natural, native plantings, while others are neatly fashioned by lawns or riprap rock. This article explores why we care about our Minnesota shoreline plantings and what are best practices for the homeowners and the plants and animals living there. Shoreline Plantings Are Important According to the Minnesota DNR, Minnesota has 11,842 lakes, and 69,200 miles of natural rivers and streams, along with 13 million acres of lakes, streams and wetlands, totaling about one quarter of the area of the entire state. As we relax in the cool, summer lakes, ponds or rivers of Minnesota, we gain heightened awareness of the reasons to protect, preserve or restore the shorelines: The vegetation provides critical habitat for our local creatures and plants; Many water edges are susceptible to erosion due to slopes and/or wave action; Runoff from the shore may need filtering before entering the water; and, Plantings contribute to the scenic beauty of the water's edge. Shoreline plantings offer the following benefits: Roots hold soil and help stabilize slopes by trapping and using water that would otherwise run off. Roots increase soil porosity, allowing water to infiltrate rather than run off. Vegetation filters out nutrients and pesticides that could otherwise reach a lake or stream and cause algal blooms or excessive plant growth. Filter strips are vegetated areas of land next to shorelines that help minimize runoff to a lake or stream. The most effective filter strips include a variety of low plants, shrubs and trees, preferably native or existing vegetation. Photo Credit: Mary Gadek Shoreline Restoration Restore your shoreline to achieve the discussed benefits by doing some or all the following steps: If starting with bare ground, use a plastic free erosion control blanket for slopes and close to shores. Utilize mass plantings of trees, shrubs and plants to more quickly stabilize the soil. Generally, native perennials are recommended for their resilience and adaptability. Have awareness of the considerations of turfgrass near shorelines: https://extension.umn.edu/shoreland-properties/caring-shoreland-lawns-and-gardens Minimize use of riprap to areas where use of rock is the only solution, and with a gravel base to encourage plants to establish within the rocks. Suggestion if utilizing rip rap: add some cuttings of shrub willow, dogwood or elderberries in the spring, with the cuttings establishing roots in the moist soil. https://extension.umn.edu/lakes-and-wetlands/shoreland-properties#building-and-landscape-planning-1904260 For erosion or minimizing wake activity at the water’s edge, stake down plastic free coir logs, willow wattles or other brush bundles. https://bsalwmp.org/shoreline-stabilization/ A resource for suggested Minnesota trees and bushes: https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/waters/watermgmt_section/shoreland/shoreline-trees-shrubs.pdf A resource for suggested Minnesota flowers, grasses and plants: https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/waters/watermgmt_section/shoreland/shoreline-herbaceous.pdf Non-native plantings are just fine to use, especially if they provide garden benefits, such as erosion control with quick rooting and extending pollinator options to the garden. https://extension.illinois.edu/news-releases/whats-name-non-native-species-not-same-invasives For both native and non-native plants, avoid adding any invasive species, (defined as species that are not native to Minnesota AND cause economic, social or environmental harm or harm to human health). See the MN DNR list: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/index.html Together we can take care of and enjoy the extensive shorelines of Minnesota and the infinite beauty! Photo Credit: Mary Gadek

< Back The Ws (plus an H) of Bulbs The great thing about planting bulbs is that they will bloom year after year. Here's what you need to know to grow bulbs successfully in your garden and look forward to early spring color. Marjorie Blare, Master Gardener Who should plant bulbs? You! Why plant bulbs? Bulbs can provide color all in all three seasons and many bulbs will return year after year. Most bulbs prefer full sun but some bulbs even thrive in shade! What are bulbs and what kinds to plant? What we loosely call bulbs are actually a group containing: true bulbs (Tulips, lilies), corms (Crocus), rhizomes (Callas, Iris) and tuberous roots (Dahlias, Tuberous begonias). All of these plants have a self-contained food storage system that has adapted to living underground. Bulbs are either hardy (perennial) or tender (need to be dug and stored) and this will determine where you plant them. Most people are familiar with Tulips, Daffodils and Lilies. All of these come in early, mid-and late season, as well as short medium and tall. There are a host of small bulbs that are often overlooked. Many of these will grow well in areas under trees because they flower before the tree leaves out. Where should I plant bulbs? Most bulbs should be planted in full sun. They don't like wet feet. Most bulbs will do well in soils ranging from sandy to clay. Jack-in-the-Pulpits, Trillium, Tuberous begonias and Martagon lilies are bulbs that will grow in the shade. How do I plant bulbs? Dig a hole two to three times deeper than the bulb's circumference. Amend the soil with organic matter. You may have heard of putting bone meal in the hole, don't do this unless you have a soil test ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) that shows your soil needs calcium and phosphorous. According to the University of Colorado, bone meal will only be available to plants in soil that has a pH level of 7 or lower. Dakota County soils tend to be naturally high in phosphorous. Make sure to plant bulbs deeper if your soil is sandy. Putting a wire barrier over the bulbs may deter digging critters. It is recommended to plant odd numbers of bulbs for aesthetics. Smaller bulbs can be planted on top of larger bulbs, rather like a fruit cake. When do I plant bulbs? Bulbs can be planted from late September through late October in Minnesota. If you are dividing bulbs, wait for the foliage to dry, but you can move them immediately. Some bulbs, such as lilies, can be moved “in the green”, as long as they are done blooming, and are taken care of through any dry, hot weather. If you wish to overwinter tender bulbs, plant them where it will be easy to dig them in the fall. For more information go to https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes For information on growing bulbs indoors go to https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors . Happy Planting! Photo credits: Carolyn Plank (1), Deborah Snow (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Harvesting Seeds for Native Prairie Restoration Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Dakota County Parks and Recreation is restoring the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. This article explains the how and why of native prairie restoration through the experience of Master Gardeners in Dakota County. Learn how you, too, can help wildlife and the environment by developing your own “pocket prairie” garden. Dakota County Parks and Recreation is attempting to restore the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. The science of prairie restoration has evolved over the last century as more is learned about how to do so effectively. Why should we be interested in prairie restoration? This excerpt from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources explains why: [It] buffers and creates connections between isolated native prairie remnants, thereby making the larger prairie landscape more resilient to changing environmental conditions including climate change, pesticides, and invasive species [Helps to “sequester carbon,” (stabilizing carbon in the ground rather than in the atmosphere] Promotes water infiltration and storage (recharges groundwater, flood control, reduces erosion and nutrient runoff) Provides places for people to explore and learn about prairies Provides habitat for a variety of animals, from deer to damselflies Connects people—physically, intellectually, emotionally, and spiritually—with prairie's past, present, and future Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. In Dakota County, prairie restoration is done by collecting and using native seeds from its own “remnant prairies” (true native prairies) (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. “Restored native prairies” are prairies that have been restored with seeds from true native prairies or those plants’ descendants. Recently, Sam Talbot, a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, met with Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) to collect native plant seeds from “restored prairies.” One group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park and the other, at Whitetail Woods Regional Park. Note - seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. The purpose of this particular outing was to collect seed for various uses by the DCMGV. The seeds from these older restored prairies are not used as a source for new restorations so DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the free Seed Library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow . The rest of the seeds will be grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the group’s May Plant Sale. Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. In the fall, it is much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. On this day, Sam had arrived earlier and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup Plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie Cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild Bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into the envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he will host another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” You also have a role to play in restoring native prairies and improving our environment. You can plant a "pocket prairie" in your yard. Even small prairie gardens can provide habitat for pollinators and other wildlife and give you the joy of a beautiful natural landscape. Each month, this publication has been and will continue to feature native plants that you can grow in your garden. To learn more about native prairies and native gardening, go the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources site noted above. Photo credits: Robert Hatlevig (1, 2, 3)

< Back Bitter Melon – The Bumpy, Spiky Gourd Loved ‘Round the Sub-Tropical World’ How about growing “bitter melon” for a change of pace. You may not be familiar with this vegetable as it is more widely grown in the tropics and subtropics. But bitter melon can be grown in Minnesota and has many health benefits. Read on to learn more about how to grow this lesser-known vegetable and when you are finished, read the Garden to Kitchen article about how to use bitter melon. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Bitter melon, also known as bitter squash, bitter apple, bitter gourd, balsam-pear, and many other non-English names, is a widely grown vegetable, especially in the tropics and sub-tropics. It is classified in the Momordia genus within the Cucurbitaceae family and is indeed shaped much like the cucumber you may have growing in your backyard garden. Depending on the species grown though, its exterior may be light green and bumpy or warty-looking (for the longer “Chinese” type) or darker green and spiky-looking (shorter “Indian” type). The cold weather-sensitive bitter melon plant will grow as a perennial in growing zones 9-11 but will thrive only as an annual in Minnesota during hot, humid months in full sun. Seeds should be started indoors 4 weeks before the last frost date and planted outdoors into warm, compost-rich soil or into a container. Seeds can also be sown directly into warm soil, however, getting these seeds to germinate can test the patience of any earnest Minnesota gardener. A helpful and quicker germination method involves wrapping the seeds in a damp paper towel on a shallow plate over a seedling heat mat. This process may take up to 7 days and nights, depending on the age of the seeds, but usually results in tiny shoots growing quickly inside the paper towel. Using this method may also require hardening off to prevent shock from temperature changes. At planting, trellis support should be provided. The bitter melon plant will produce long, light green vines with deep green, multi-lobed leaves and curly tendrils that appear delicate, but keep a tight grip on nearly anything within reach. 3 to 4 weeks after planting, the plants will produce bright yellow flowers; the male flowers appearing before the female flowers. Soil should be kept moist throughout the growing season, but not soaked. Momordia species can thrive on compost from household scraps but would otherwise benefit from a biweekly feeding of 5-10-10 slow-release fertilizer. Two-three weeks after flower drop, female flowers will produce fully grown fruits. Chinese type bitter melons measure 6-10 inches in length and Indian type fruits will grow to an average of 4-8 inches. As with any vegetable, it can be tempting to see how large they will grow, but if left on the vine too long, bitter melons will overripen, burst open and release their seeds. The best indication of harvest readiness is the color of the fruit’s exterior. Bitter melons should be harvested before their skin turns yellow. For ideas about how bitter melons are eaten, click on the Garden to Kitchen article! Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1, 3 Rawpixel (all creative commons) 2

< Back Jicama – Not Just in the South Anymore What starchy, tuberous vegetable has the refreshing crispness of a fresh apple, abundant nutrients and fiber, all with a deliciously low glycemic index? It’s the unassuming, turnip-shaped jicama (pronounced híh-ka-ma), sometimes called “Mexican potato” or “yam bean.” Read on to learn more about this interesting vegetable and a pleasant surprise for Minnesota gardeners. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener The jicama plant belongs to the genus Pachyrhizus and is a native of Central and South America. It has been a cultivated vegetable there and in southeast Asia for hundreds of years. The seeds, which range in color from pale to dark brown, have also been cultivated for their high content of rotenone, a toxin used as a pesticide, an insecticide, and a piscicide (fish killer). (Remember the 1950’s B-movie horror flick “Creature from the Black Lagoon”?) In fact, nearly all parts of the jicama plant - its bluish green vining foliage, beautiful bluish purple and white flowers, the subsequent lime green seed pods, and even the light brown peel of the tuber - are known to contain rotenone and should not be eaten. The only safely edible part is the white flesh of the tuber. From seed to harvest, the length of maturity for jicama is 4-9 months. After transplanting seedlings 12 inches apart in well-drained loamy to sandy soil warmed to at least 70 degrees, the plant can be trained up a trellis and fed a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium fertilizer monthly to keep it thriving. For the best root production, flowers should be removed at an early stage. As with nearly any root vegetable, it’s possible for the curious gardener to check on the size of the growing tubers by pulling soil away temporarily. They should be covered up though, to resume growth. Jicama tubers must be allowed to remain in the garden as long as possible, however, the plants will not tolerate frost. Record late season warmth has produced the largest and heaviest yields for commercially grown jicama. So, why feature a vegetable whose digs (pun intended) are in the subtropics? Why tempt Minnesotans with a food item they can find only in a grocery store and not in their own backyard gardens? Wonder no more - jicama seeds can now be found locally and grown locally! Pachyrhizus erosus is a cultivar that produces a smaller root but has the shortest maturity of approximately 150 days. By starting seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost and continuing with the above growing instructions, it is possible to produce jicama tubers of your very own. Photo Credits: Photo 1, www.ourfood.nl (All Creative Commons) Photo 2, Powo.science.kew.org (All Creative Commons)