REGISTRATION FOR LET'S GET GROWING 2026 IS OPEN! Let’s Get Growing is an event for home gardeners of all skill levels looking to learn more and have a great time. This event includes classes, a keynote speaker, lunch, silent auction and a chance to win door prizes too. Classes are taught by U of M Master Gardeners as well as horticulture professionals. Consider coming to enjoy friendly people and a garden marketplace where you can purchase books and garden décor in a spring time atmosphere! Date Saturday, March 14, 2026 Time 8 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Central time Location Eagan Community Center 1501 Central Parkway Eagan, MN 55121 Schedule 8 a.m. Check in, vendors, and refreshments open 9 a.m. Welcome 9:45 a.m. Session 1 11 a.m. Session 2 12-1 p.m. lunch 1-2 p.m. Keynote speaker Laura Irish-Hanson Session 1 options Enjoying birds and animals in your garden — Matt Schuth Exploring native plants for your garden plans — Andy Scott Diseases in lawns — Jon Trappe, Extension turfgrass educator Helping trees survive and thrive in a changing landscape — Gary Johnson, Extension forestry educator Session 2 options Container garden like a pro — Michelle Mero Riedel Landscaping for clean water — Victoria Ranua Diseases in plants: Prevention, management, and detective work — Laura Irish-Hanson, Extension horticulture educator Stone sculpture in your garden — Peter Juhl (class limit 20) Cost $45 Accommodations University of Minnesota Extension is committed to providing equal opportunity for participation in all programs, services and activities. To request accommodations for persons with disabilities, reach out to the event contact two weeks before the start of the event. Requests received after this date will be honored whenever possible. Language This offering is delivered in English. Interpreter services may be available with an advance request. Speaker Bios Register here Read more

< Back Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricate): A Big Punch in a Little Packet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener It’s that beautiful carpet of pastels appearing in moist woodlands across the Midwest in the spring – Woodland Phlox. Otherwise known as “Sweet William,” this native plant has many reasons to be at home in your garden. Read more about the virtues of Woodland Phlox and then decide if you will grow it from seed or as an established plant. Not only will you enjoy this plant but pollinators love it as well. The Phlox family (Polimoniaceae), tend to be a diminutive bunch, with delicate spring blooms. Their delicacy is both charming and deceptive as they are a persistent bunch that will form a lovely groundcover if left to their own devices. This is certainly true of woodland phlox which is found across the entire Midwest although more prevalent in the northwest, inclusive of the deciduous forests of Minnesota. There it can carpet the ground, blooming from mid to late spring. You will find it most profusely in a mesic forest, that is, one in which an ample supply of moisture is found throughout the growing season. It will however grow in most woodlands as long as there is moisture during its blooming season in spring. Ironically, woodland phlox is very summer drought resistant. Thus, it is hardy across the Midwest from Zones 3 through 8. Woodland phlox readily grows from seed and will self-sow quite vigorously. This is an important characteristic, as the individual plant is fairly short-lived for a perennial at 3 to 5 years. As you might imagine, it is a shade-loving plant but will tolerate part sun. As it blooms in the spring, the light blue flowers exude its delicate perfume earning its other name of ‘Sweet William.’ Woodland phlox in bloom in a mesic forest Woodland phlox combines quite well with a variety of other woodland, shade-loving plants. It fits in nicely with other later-blooming groundcovers or larger shade perennials. The springtime stalks rarely exceed 18 inches and quickly disintegrate after blooming. Since the foliage often disappears after blooming, it does not make a good stand-alone ground cover and should be integrated with other species. Unfortunately, the bunnies love woodland phlox so it’s best to protect new plantings until a bigger colony is established. As is the case with so many native perennials, woodland phlox is pollinator friendly and attracts bumblebees, sphinx moths, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you are thinking about installing a pollinator lawn, woodland phlox can be integrated into the shady parts quite easily. Woodland phlox blooms range in color from white to soft blue. Occasionally you will find some rosy to purplish flowers. Since these folks do self-seed, the color of various strains will modulate from generation to generation. Yet the perfume of springtime ‘Sweet William’ is ethereal no matter the hue. Woodland phlox blooms may assume a variety of colors Photo Credit: University of Wisconsin Extension (1,2)

< Back Seed Buying Do’s & Don’ts” Happy New Year! It’s time to pack up decorations, and pack-off the visiting relatives. Now is “me” time. Grab a “cuppa” your favorite beverage, snuggle into a throw, review your notes from last year’s growing season and begin perusing seed catalogs. This article provides suggestions about things to consider when purchasing seeds. BJ Hansell, Master Gardener Most every gardening-related resource online will advise you that the best time to order seeds is between the months of January and April. That is mostly because seed sellers publish their catalogs around the December holidays. Additionally, the orders should be arriving before planting time. Before completing a deep-dive into seed catalogs, checkout The Dakota County Seed Library that is maintained through a partnership between the Dakota County Library, Dakota County Library Foundation and the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners. It is located at the Farmington Library. If you are searching for a wonderful variety of seeds please avail yourself of this service. The collection includes Edibles, Flowers, Herbs and “Others.” Did I mention the seeds are FREE? FREE SEEDS!! Click on this link www.co.dakota.mn.us , enter “Seed Library” in the search box, then follow the resulting Seed Library link. There you can learn about the mission of the Seed Library, the list of current seed inventory and how to acquire seeds. Donors for this season include Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, and personal donations. The inventory will be updated during January & February 2024. We also operate an ongoing ‘ Seed Drive'. Everyone is encouraged to participate. We request heirloom varieties packaged for 2023 or later in the supplier’s original packet. Hybrid varieties and clearly labeled collected seeds may be added directly to one of our 'Share' drawers. This resource is especially useful if you do not want large quantities of particular seeds. As you begin collecting seeds, they should be stored in low-light and low-humidity environments. They should experience as little temperature fluctuation as possible. Photo storage boxes are a great example of one method for compact & organized seed storage. Here is a summary of 10 tips for buying seeds online and in catalogs. 1. Ask gardeners you trust to find out what companies they like and have had success with. A good source is a Dakota County Master Gardener. 2. Call the company and see how you like their responses to your questions. Do they have knowledgeable staff on hand to answer your gardening and planting questions? 3. How long have they been in business? Just because they’re new, doesn’t make them bad. But the companies that have been around a long time must be doing something right. 4. Are you looking for something specific? Some companies specialize in only certain plants while others are more generalist. If you’re looking for only certified organic, or heirloom for example, those companies are out there. Be aware there are plenty of specialty companies. 5. Don’t over buy . This is a common mistake. It is easy to be sucked into the pretty pictures and before you know it, you’ve purchased way more than you’ll have time to plant or that you’ll have room to grow. Partner with a fellow gardener to share large quantities at perhaps a better value. 6. How much are shipping costs? Sometimes it can be more than the seeds. Companies can vary a great deal here. Know the whole cost, not just the price of the seeds or plants. 7. Make sure the seeds you are buying are fresh and packaged for that year. Deeply discounted seeds may be out of date. Although still viable in many cases, they do begin to decline in their rate of germination success as they get older and/or stored improperly. Remember, you get what you pay for. 8. Know approximately how many seeds are in a pack. Some packs have more seeds than you’ll need, while others will surprise you at the small amount provided. It pays to inquire to save the disappointment of finding out you didn’t get enough. 9. Know if what you are ordering will grow in your zone and conditions. It is so easy to assume you’ll get results like those in the picture. In reality, without just the right conditions, your results could vary greatly. Take note of the updated 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map . 10. Don’t be afraid to try new things. You won’t blow your life’s savings on an order of seeds so if you’re feeling lucky, go for it. Experimenting is one of the best parts of gardening. Nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say. See you next month when another knowledgeable MG will share information on seed starting! Resource: https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/10-tips-for-buying-seeds-online-and-in-catalogs/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gearacres.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Are You Contributing to the Illegal Succulent Trade? Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Succulents, particularly rare or unusual succulents, have become very popular. Easy online succulent sales boomed during the Covid-19 pandemic. Unfortunately, the demand for rare and unique plants plus the ease of being able to buy and sell plants online has contributed to the illegal succulent trade business. This, in turn, has created a nightmare for plant conservationists, particularly in South Africa, where illegal plant harvesting is disrupting the ecosystem. This article is intended to bring awareness to this problem and to suggest how you can avoid being part of the problem. The demand for rare and unique plants plus the ease of being able to buy and sell plants online has contributed to the illegal succulent trade business. This, in turn, has created a nightmare for plant conservationists, particularly in South Africa. This article is intended to bring awareness to this problem and to suggest how you can avoid being part of the problem. the plant on the left, Lithops Olivaceae, is threatened by trade Succulents have become very popular and online succulent sales boomed during the Covid-19 pandemic. But not all plants are grown equally or harvested legally. Many are illegally harvested from South Africa. According to traffic.org , over 1.6 million plants from 650+ species were illegally harvested between 2019 to May of 2024. TRAFFIC is a non-governmental organization working with the South African government and botanical gardens to ensure that trade in wild species is legal and sustainable. Single confiscations included 60,000 individual plants and researchers believe whole species are extinct in the wild because of one harvesting event. Succulents evolved to survive the harsh arid climate of South Africa and some animals depend on these water storing plants during dry spells. Many of the succulents in South Africa’s ‘Succulent Karoo Biome’ are endemic to the area and found nowhere else in the world. The Succulent Karoo is a nearly 45,000 square mile biodiverse, arid region spanning South Africa's Atlantic coast into Namibia. It hosts the planet's richest succulent flora—nearly 40% of the world’s succulent species—with 40% endemic to the region. Aloe Striata-plant of the Succulent Karoo How would you know if you were contributing to the shady business of succulent poaching? Ask yourself these questions about plants you are about to purchase online: Tips to tell if a succulent was propagated and grown in a nursery or sourced from the wild. More likely to be propagated and grown in a nursery Signs it may have been sourced from the wild Appearance Neat and tidy. Irregular. Like they’ve seen some things (hungry herbivores, fires, being stepped on, a rough harvesting and transport). Form Upright like it was growing towards an artificial light. Warped form potentially from winding around a rock or another plant to access sunlight. For species that only bloom once No seed pods or flowers present Seed pods or flowers present Size (for a species that takes a long time to mature) Smaller Large Roots Uncut and in the shape of the pot it was planted in. Cut from whatever the plant was growing on or around. Info Seller has paperwork from a mother stock with legal permits and/or can tell you when a succulent was planted. No additional information or paperwork upon request. Seller A large, known, certified dealer. Unknown individual Is the species you are buying protected? Always check with local and national laws to determine if it’s legal to possess your plant or move it across borders. Buying locally helps avoid issues with CITES (Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species) permits and reputable sellers should be able to provide you with proof of permitting. You can put the plant name into the IUCN Red List Portal to check to see if it is a succulent being threatened by trade. If it is and you can’t verify it was propagated sustainably, do not purchase it! Criminal networks used to traffic plants are often involved with other illegal activities. It would be best to buy from a seller with a legitimate certification from Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network , Fairtrade Flowers and Plants , or FairWild . If you do think that a plant you found online has been harvested illegally, report it to the ecommerce platform it was listed on. Etsy, Ebay and other sites are partnering with the Coalition to end Wildlife Trafficking online to prevent the sale of illegally obtained plants. It pays to ask questions first. If a plant you bought online ends up being confiscated you could be the one that ends up in big trouble! Succulents are fascinating plants and it is fun to acquire unusual and exotic plants. But, we all have a responsibility ensure that our purchases are legal not interfering with the ecosystem of the planet. Resources https://www.traffic.org/news/are-your-houseplants-fuelling-extinction-south-africas-rare-succulents-face-silent-crisis/ https://www.traffic.org/publications/reports/a-succulent-trade/ https://www.traffic.org/site/assets/files/26240/succulents_report.pdf https://www.sanbi.org/media/sas-succulent-plants-experience-unprecedented-rates-of-decline/ Succulent Karoo , Wikipedia Photo Credit: Kristin van Shie, TRAFFIC (1), Wikipedia, Dwergenenpaartje (2)

< Back Master Gardeners Answer Your Questions One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. This article explains some of the ways that you can have your gardening questions answered by a certified Master Gardener in Dakota County. In particular, at Farmers Markets around the county, you can find MGs at their “Ask a Master Gardener” table, ready to answer your gardening questions Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. “Ask a Master Gardener” volunteers can be found at various places but primarily at Farmers Markets around the county. At these events, you can find MGs at their table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Look for the familiar MG sign and table cloth! In order to be certified as a MG, an individual must complete a horticulture course in research-based, best horticultural practices through the University of Minnesota Extension. University faculty provide education on a wide array of horticultural subjects; for example – herbaceous and woody plants; growing vegetables and fruit; weeds; soil; composting; fertilizers; trees; lawn care and others. MGs combine this education with their own experience to provide you with gardening information. If they can’t answer a question on the spot, they will research the answer and get back to you. Additionally the MGs have handouts on relevant topics such as plants for pollinators, native plants, invasives, lawn care, and soil testing. In Dakota County, this project is led by Paul Wood and Rozanne Witter – both very experienced Master Gardeners. However, many other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge at community events. In fact, last year, MGs volunteered over 300 hours at the markets and answered almost 1100 questions! During the warm months, you can find MGs at these Farmer’s Markets: Apple Valley – Western Dakota County Service Center, 14955 Galaxie Ave Eagan -- Eagan Community Center, 1501 Central Pkwy Burnsville -- Mary, Mother of the Church, 3333 Cliff Rd East Lakeville - 20851 Holyoak Avenue During the winter months, MGs are often available at the Apple Valley Bachman’s and the Eagan Market Fest. For information about where and when Master Gardeners will be at one of these locations, this link will take you to the Dakota County Master Gardeners’ event schedule. An “Ask a Master Gardener” table is also available at our annual May Plant Sale and Let’s Get Growing spring kick-off event and the Burnsville Native Plant Sale. If you would like an “Ask A Master Gardener” table at your event, please complete the Contact Us form on our website. Ask a Master Gardener Line Master Gardeners in Dakota County also participate in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum “Ask a Master Gardener phone line.” If you have gardening questions when you are not at an MG event, this is a great resource for you. Simply call the phone line (612-301-7590), leave your phone number and as much information as possible. A Master Gardener will get back to you within 24-48 hours. The mission of the Master Gardener program is to provide members of the community, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. The “Ask a Master Gardener” project is a great way for us to connect with you and provide the information that you need! See you soon at a Farmers’ Market near you! Photo credits: Paul Wood (1,2)

< Back April is Here! No Worries - Quick Seed Germination Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The first day of spring has come and gone, but it is still too early to plant seeds outside and maybe too late to start seeds inside? Or is it? Let’s try this quick germination activity with the little ones in your life to get a jumpstart on your flower or vegetable garden. The seeds are bought and we are all anxiously awaiting the gardening season. It is a great time to introduce the children in your life to see germination. The paper towel seed germination method helps to germinate more seeds in less space, pick the best seeds that have germinated and germinate seeds faster. What a simple way to not only see seeds germinate before your eyes, but to also take this process to the next level of transplanting the seedlings into a beautiful vegetable garden plant. Items Needed : Paper Towels (absorbent/thicker ones work the best) Seeds (for beginners try peppers, tomatoes, peas & zucchini) Clear plastic sandwich, pint or gallon bags Permanent Marker Tweezers & Pencil Water (Spray Bottle) Small indoor pots (plastic or biodegradable) to use for transplanting seedlings Potting Soil Let’s Get Started Paper Towel Prep : Wet the paper towels (number of towels will depend on how many seeds are started) Double the paper towels into a large square and wet paper towels by running under water either from faucet or from watering can Ring out paper towels so that they are damp, but not too wet. If the seeds get too wet, they will mold/rot and then will be unable to sprout. Time for Seed Germination Prep : Choose seeds and place on one half of the square paper towel. Once seeds are placed, fold over the other half of the paper towel so that the seeds are sandwiched between. It is recommended that the paper towels should be rolled if you are germinating tomato seeds. The paper towels with the seeds sandwiched between should then be placed in an appropriately sized plastic bag. The bag can be labeled with the type of seed that is inside. The bag can be left open slightly to help prevent mold from forming. Place the Seed Germination Bag in a warm and sunny spot in your home. Daily Monitoring : Daily monitor seeds for roots to appear as well as to monitor for watering needs. A white root will eventually emerge from the seed. Make sure that the paper towel does not dry out and if it begins to dry, mist with a spray bottle. Monitor for mold on the seeds and paper towels as well. Time to Transplant : When the root is an inch or two long it is time to transplant. Prepare small potting containers by placing potting soil inside. Place a hold for planting in the soil by using a pencil to make a hole. The roots are very fragile. Take a tweezer and gently pick-up the seeding by the seed coat. Place the seedling into the hole so that only the white part is beneath the soil. The seed coat and green stem should be above the soil line. Cover the hole gently with soil. Continue this process for each seed that has germinated or the number of seeds you choose to transplant. Before planting outside, wait until your seeds have true leaves and follow the process for acclimating the plants to being transplanted in your outdoor garden. Photo Credits : PxHere.com (1), Flickr.com (2,3), Pexels.com (4)

< Back Wild Yam (Dioscorea villosa): A Decorative Foliage Vine Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Wild yam is the subject of June’s native vine profile. Not to be confused with the edible yams that we buy in the grocery store, wild yam is sometimes marketed as “natural estrogen.” The article explains why wild yam cannot be used in this way and why you might want to add it to your garden for other reasons. Like so many other native plants, wild yam is known by many other names. Some of the more common ones include American yam, Atlantic yam, Barbasco, China root, Colic root and Devil’s bones. Not to be confused with edible yams, wild yam is sometimes marketed today is as a “natural estrogen.” It is purported to be useful as an alternative to estrogen or dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) in treatment of menopausal symptoms. Unfortunately, the human body lacks the enzymes to convert the plant compounds found in yam to either estrogen or DHEA. Although anecdotal testimonials abound, it is important to understand that the biochemistry does not support use of wild yam as a “natural estrogen.” wild yam leaves; Credit: Illinois Wildflowers So why should we consider wild yam as an addition to our native perennials? It is an elegant vine that can be depended upon to weave through fence, trellis or arbor. Likewise, it will ramble through established plantings providing a lush understory for larger beds. Although, as its name implies, it is a close relative to cultivated yams, it is not edible. Yet wild yam’s ornamental value is considerable. Indeed, its heart shaped foliage is attractive throughout the growing season with prominent veining. This makes it a great foliage plant. These leaves turn a golden yellow in the fall, providing a striking accent. Spring and early summer bring flowers in creamy yellow clusters. Winged seed pods follow, green in summer, brown in fall, hanging on in winter as accents. Wild Yam flowers; Credit: Steven Baskauf, Native Plant Trust To grow this delightful native perennial vine, keep in mind that it is dioecious, meaning that it requires both male and female plants for proper flowering and seed production. It is found across the Lower Midwest and into the Upper Midwest as far west as Central Minnesota and southeastern Nebraska. In its native state, it usually is found in moist woods and floodplains as well as in hedgerows. It tolerates full sun but will do well in light to partial shade. One attractive feature of wild yam is its drought tolerance, although it prefers moist, well-drained soils for optimum growth. If you want to try your hand at propagating the vine, you can germinate from seeds or start from division of tubers. Which ever route you try, you’ll be rewarded with an enduring ornamental addition to your landscape.

< Back What Will This Warm Winter Do To My Plants And Is Dakota County Warmer? Some of us enjoyed our strangely warm winter and others of us mourned the lack of snow and cold temperatures. But for gardeners, the main concerns now center around questions like – what effect will the warm, snowless winter have on my plants; on how I prune my trees and shrubs; and what about the bug population? And looking beyond this year, is Minnesota warming? And, if so, what does that mean for the plants I have or will plant? Read this article for some answers to your questions. Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener & Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener How Will the Warm Winter Affect My Plants This Year? The lack of cold and snow may have some effect on your plants, shrubs and trees but there are some things that you can do now, and in the future, to mitigate the damage. Which plants are likely to be affected depends somewhat on your fall preparation and on other factors, such as the plant species. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension experts have prepared an excellent article that provides answers to all of these questions. Click this link to access a thorough discussion and practical advice for dealing with the effects of our warm winter. How does the 2023 hardiness zone change affect my garden? The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) produces a “plant hardiness zone map,” which is a tool based on average annual extreme winter temperatures. The zone map can help gardeners decide which plants may grow well in their garden. Of course, other factors affect whether a plant will thrive in your garden, notably - soil, sun, water and care. But the zone map is a helpful tool and so is something of which you should be aware. In 2023, the USDA updated the zone maps for the first time since 2012. The 2023 USDA hardiness zone map documents the average minimum temperatures of weather from 1991 to 2020. There are 13 zones in the USDA zone map, divided into 10 degree increments. The larger numbers are warmer zones and smaller numbers are cooler zones. Each zone is also divided into half zones (“a” and “b”) which indicate a 5 degree change in temperature. It’s a pretty good bet that a plant that can thrive in zone 13 is not going to thrive in zone 4. So, the farther south you are the warmer it gets, right? Well, not always. In the 2012 zone map, Dakota county was in the 4b zone . In the 2023 zone map, parts of Dakota County are in 5a (-20 to -15) and others are in 4b (-25 to -20). Significantly, the 2023 map is able to show variations due to “heat sinks” near cities, mountains and bodies of water. In other words, cities tend to hold more heat because they include large areas of concrete and blacktop. Areas of the county closer to the Twin Cities are actually warmer than farther south! But note that more of southwestern Minnesota is now in the 5a zone as well. Being aware of your zone will allow you to make better choices when you buy plants. Plants that were once marginally hardy in the Dakota County area may now have a higher chance of surviving. When you buy a plant at your local nursery, they may have a tag that gives you the zones in which it is hardy. Before, you might have passed over “Reticulated Iris” (zones 5-9). Now, if you live in an area in the (5a) heat sink of the Twin Cities, you might give it a shot. References: blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu Updated USDA hardiness zoning maps Madeline Wimmer, Extension Educator, Fruit Crops Images: The new 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for Minnesota (left) and previous from 2... extension.umn.edu A new plant hardiness zone map from the USDA Using data collected from over 13,000 weather stations during a 30-year period, the new USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map provides higher resolution and more accurate zonal information. Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons), Photo 2 – University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Strawberry Asparagus Salad and a Challenge! Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s July and some of your vegetables and fruit are ripe for picking – yay! Two of these early products are asparagus and strawberries. And, luckily, they go together in a delicious salad. Read Joy Johnson’s article for an easy recipe. And, keep reading for a more difficult recipe for Strawberry Cucumber bread. If you’re up for the challenge, you will be rewarded with a delicious treat! Did you know that asparagus and strawberries go well together in two ways? One way is to do companion plantings with groups of asparagus inter-mixed with strawberry plants. Because the asparagus grows tall and starts sprouting out of the ground ahead of the strawberry plants, you can grow them together and harvest them at nearly the same time. The second way is to eat them together. Their flavors are complimentary and make a fresh summer salad. Here is a very simple recipe that pulls together in no time. You can jazz it up by adding sliced almonds, poppy seeds, goat cheese or crumbled feta or blue cheese. I didn’t have those ingredients on hand, so I’m keeping it simple tonight! Strawberry Asparagus Salad Ingredients: 2 cups asparagus, cut in pieces and blanched 2 cups strawberries, sliced Dressing: ¼ cup lemon juice 2 TBSP vegetable oil. 2 TBSP honey Directions: Toss the asparagus and strawberries together in a bowl. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the dressing ingredients and mix well. Pour dressing over salad and toss. Chill before serving. Strawberry Cucumber Bread – If You Like a Challenge! This colorful bread can be served at breakfast or as a dessert or in the middle of the day with a cup of tea or coffee. I came across this recipe when I googled “spring breads”. It has two of my favorite foods in it: strawberries and cucumbers, which I thought was an interesting combination for a quick bread. It was very challenging to make! First, I had to clarify butter. I didn’t start with a small enough pan, so when I had to scrape off the butter foam without dipping my spoon into the clear layer underneath, that wasn’t going to work. So, I dumped it into a smaller pan, which completely negated the instruction to not stir it or disturb the layers in any way. I gently scraped off the foam after waiting an extra hour with the pan over really low heat, and I figured it would re-layer itself if I waited long enough. Then I was supposed to separate the clarified butter from the water, which I could do by pouring it off. Hmm, it all looked the same to me. So, I went back to my computer to get some work done (that I get paid for) and left the pot on very low heat for another hour. When I came back into the kitchen, there was the butter - thick and smooth, but definitely not clear. I scooped it out of the pot so I could measure it and discovered about a teaspoon of water underneath. I did pour that off. I used this butter in the recipe, but I can’t say if it met the definition of ‘clarified’. The next challenge was the baking. It flowed over my bread pan and all over the oven floor. I scraped the bottom rack and the bottom of the oven clean as soon as I discovered it, so it wouldn’t start on fire, which was after about an hour of baking. The bread should have been done at that point. But it wasn’t even close with the hot batter still running over the side of the pan. So, I covered it with a tent of foil in an effort to get the inside baked and not brown the outside any further. I checked it every 15 minutes. It still wasn’t done and was still volcano-ing onto the oven floor. It ended up in the oven for an extra 40 minutes (at least, I went out to rake the lawn!) and then I gave up and took it out. I put it in the microwave for 2 ½ minutes on high to get the inside cooked. The next challenge was getting it out of the bread pan. I let it cool on a cooling rack until it was just warm. I had greased and floured the pan before filling it. I gently went around the edge with a butter knife, sawing through the dark parts where the batter had flowed over the pan. Tipped it over - no movement. I went around the pan with the knife again, twice, then turned it on one side and worked on that side, turned it over to the other side and worked on that side. It finally came free in one piece! Of course, I sliced it and ate a piece right away. It was delicious , especially when I hit a pocket of the strawberry preserves, but I’m not sure it was worth all the effort! Strawberry Cucumber Bread (from Bon Appetite Magazine) modified slightly by me Ingredients: ½ cup strawberry preserves 1 T cornstarch 1T fresh lemon juice ½ c sort of clarified butter, room temp 1 c sugar 2 large eggs 1t vanilla extract ¼ t almond extract 2c all -purpose flour 1 t baking powder ½ t baking soda ½ t salt 2 cups grated and well drained cucumber ½ c chopped walnuts ½ c sliced fresh strawberries, divided Instructions: In a small saucepan, cook strawberry preserves, cornstarch, and lemon juice over medium heat until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Let cool completely. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with baking spray and sprinkle with flour. In a bowl, beat clarified butter and sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in extracts. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating just until combined. Stir in cucumber, walnuts, and ¼ cup (42.5 grams) sliced strawberries. Spoon half of batter into prepared pan; top with strawberry preserve mixture. Add remaining batter, and top with remaining ¼ cup (42.5 grams) strawberry slices. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan and let cool completely on a wire rack. Wrap and store at room temperature for up to 1 week. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Holiday Trees Tori Clark, Master Gardener Tis the season. If your holiday decorating includes a fresh cut tree, here are some things to consider before selecting your tree and some tips to ensure it lasts throughout the season. If your holiday decorating includes a fresh cut tree, there are some things to consider before selecting your tree and tips to ensure it lasts throughout the season. Most of the trees you will find at cut-your-own or pre-cut lots will be one of these four types: Fraser fir trees have bright green, flattened needles; ½ to 1 inch long. They have some of the best needle retention and a pleasant scent. Fraser firs have strong branches which angle upward making them a great choice for heavier ornaments. Fraser fir Balsam fir needles tend to be a little longer, about ¾" to 1 ½" . The long-lasting needles are flat and rounded at the tip. These firs have a dark green color and are very fragrant. Balsam fir Scotch pine has very stiff, dark green needles about one inch long. The needles will stay on the tree even when dry. Scotch pine White pines have soft, blue-green needles, 2 to 4 inches long, that will stay on throughout the holiday season. The trees have a full appearance and are best suited to smaller ornaments. White pines have little or no fragrance, but can have less allergic reactions compared to more fragrant trees. White pine Whether you are shopping at a pre-cut tree lot in town or cutting your own, make sure you have a good idea of the height and width the desired spot in your home can accommodate. Also check your tree for freshness. Trees are often cut weeks earlier, so make sure the needles are green and flexible and do not fall off when you run your hand over a branch. If you are not putting your tree up when you bring it home, keep it in a shaded unheated location. A fresh cut to the trunk of your holiday tree will help it last through all of your holiday celebrations so remove 1-2” of the trunk then place the tree in a stand with water. A good quality tree stand will hold one to two gallons of water. Keep it filled with water for a long-lasting tree that is fragrant and doesn’t drop too many needles. Be sure to keep your tree away from heat sources like vents and fireplaces to reduce drying. Look for resources in your community for recycling your tree after the holidays. Photo credits: www.forestryimages.org (1, 2), www.flickr.com (3, 4)

< Back Foxglove Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) can be a charming addition to your landscape. In this article you will learn about its interesting history and growing tips. In the year 1785 the English physician William Withering published An Account of the Foxglove, describing the medicinal features of extracts of this native perennial in the treatment of dropsy. That was a term for the swelling associated with severe congestive heart failure. This was the first account of its use in the medical profession, yet herbalists had been using foxglove tea to treat heart failure for centuries before. The only drawback of this “miracle cure” was that too much of a good thing could quickly dispatch the tea imbiber. The pharmacologically active agent in foxglove is digitalis, a drug still used today to treat heart failure and disturbances of heart rhythm. Digitalis, like foxglove has a narrow therapeutic range. Too much can cause serious side effects, including death. If, however, you are not prone to munching on your garden perennials, you will find that Digitalis purpurea is a charming addition to your landscape. Although originally native to most of Northern Europe, it has naturalized to the Upper Midwest where it grows as an herbaceous biennial or short-lived perennial. That is to say, a given plant usually lives two to three years but plentifully reseeds. Thus, if a garden area is left undisturbed, germination should provide an ongoing colony of Foxglove. In the first year, the plant forms a tight rosette on the ground. The second year a 3 to 6 foot stem develops with spirally arranged 3 x 2 inch or larger leaves. The flowers are arranged in a showy, terminal, elongated cluster. Each flower is tubular hanging downward. The “finger like” flower shape is reflected in the name Digitalis . These flowers are typically purple, but some plants, especially cultivars, of which there are many, may be pink, rose, yellow, or white. Foxglove tends to bloom in late spring to early summer with occasional shows later in the season. Digitalis purpurea prefers partial sunlight to deep shade, being a forest understory dweller. It frequently pops up in areas where the soil has been recently disturbed. Some accounts maintain that skin contact with foxglove can be harmful, so it is best to wear gloves when handling it. Although it can be grown from seed, this can be a little tricky and germination rates are not all that high. It’s probably a better bet to purchase a potted plant in the spring and enjoy the spectacular show that Foxglove provides. And remember, no nibbling the plants! Photo credits: www.abebooks.com (1), publc domain (2)

< Back Explore the Virtues of Wild Ginger for your Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Many gardeners love a good cookbook for the bounty we grow. But what about recipes? Now that we’ve rounded the corner from April to May, it’s off to the races, back to the garden centers to do some window shopping and more often than not, bring home a new addition (or 20). As I continue to develop my garden, now entering its 4th growing season, I reflect back on what has worked, what can be removed and gaps I need to fill. This season I am focusing on ground covers, specifically Wild Ginger, which can be added as a beneficial plant, address a difficult site, and create a point of interest in the garden. Note - Wild Ginger is inedible and should not be confused with the Ginger that you might find in a grocery store. This Minnesota native plant has soft, heart-shaped leaves with a smaller heart-shaped cutout where the leaf meets a fuzzy stem. Wild Ginger will grow approximately 8 inches in height, making it perfect to be placed in front of leggy plants and has a spreading nature of approximately 15 inches. Hardy to Zone 2, this tough plant can make it through some of the worst winters and come out the other side healthy and thriving. Wild Ginger does well in both shade and part shade locations making this plant optimal below the canopies of more mature trees or in north facing gardens. Gardeners should use caution though, if planting in a space that receives a lot direct sunlight, as the leaves could burn. Wild Ginger can tolerate some drought but prefers moist, not wet, well-draining soil. A true “set it and forget it” plant, pruning will not be necessary unless you are clearing away dieback or want to create a more compact spread. Wild Ginger is a slow growing plant that spreads underground, through rhizomes. In the early spring, shallow lateral root systems make division and transplanting easy. This versatile plant is used as a unique ground cover that provides many solutions and benefits in a garden. Best Suited Spaces Rain Garden Shade Garden Woodland Garden Native Plant Garden Problem Solver Erosion control on slopes Ground Cover Weed Suppressant Early Pollinator The first thing that caught my eye when I considered Wild Ginger was its attractive spreading nature. If there is one thing gardeners are not fond of, it’s weeds. This workhorse plant will push out competing non-native, invasive spreading plants and weeds, giving you more time to enjoy your garden and less time fussing over uninvited guests. At first glance, you might not suspect that Wild Ginger contributes to early pollination, but it does! Hidden beneath the leaves of this ground cover plant, you will discover a brownish purple jug shaped flower that sits near the base of the plant. This flower can attract some lesser-known pollinators, such as ants and pollinator flies which are looking for food sources as the snow begins to melt. Diversity is the key to a healthy garden. Consider adding some Wild Ginger to your landscape, it will not disappoint, and be sure to check out our article on Gardening in Shade to discover some other shade loving ground cover options. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Wisconsin Extension (2)