< Back Winter Chicken Stew (And a Special Valentine Treat) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener The ice and snow have buried your garden under a cold blanket. Picking fresh veggies and herbs from your own plot is a distant memory and a future hope! You can still make tasty nutritious meals for your family using your garden produce, just open your freezer. Here is a recipe for a delicious chicken stew that will make great use of your frozen vegetables and herbs. Follow that up with this special sweet Valentine’s treat. Last October I dug up all the carrots and parsnips before the first hard frost. I washed, peeled, sliced, blanched, and froze containers of them. They’ve been sleeping in my freezer and now it’s time to wake them up with herbs, (also frozen or dried from my garden) in this flavorful, healthy chicken stew. I love using a crock pot for this recipe. It must be set on the low setting for the chicken to absorb the flavors and not taste dry. Country Style Chicken Stew Medium Crock Pot 2 tsp olive oil 1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch pieces 4 oz. portobello mushrooms, cubed (or one small can of mushroom stems and pieces) 14 oz. fat-free chicken broth ¼ cup dry white wine 3 golden potatoes, cubed into bite size pieces 15 oz can great northern beans, rinsed and drained 2 cups frozen sliced carrots (or 4 fresh ones) 1 cup frozen sliced parsnips (or 2 fresh ones) 8 cloves garlic, minced ¼ tsp pepper ¼ tsp of each of these dried spices: thyme, basil, rosemary, tarragon, oregano (if using frozen, use about a pinch of each) 1 bay leaf ¼ cup dried parsley (you can also use frozen, just chop it finely) Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and mushrooms, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Combine the chicken mixture with everything else listed in a medium sized crock pot. Cover and cook on LOW until the chicken is cooked through, the potatoes are tender, and the flavors are blended, 6 to 8 hours. Serves 4. Serve the chicken stew with these colorful sweet scones Just for My Valentine Sweetheart Scones 2 ½ cups flour (can use ½ whole wheat) 1/3 cup sugar 1 Tbsp Baking Powder ¾ tsp salt 6 Tbsp butter 1 egg ½ cup milk ¾ cup dried cranberries, cherries or blueberries (a little grated orange rind is great with the cranberries) Top with 2 tsp milk and tsp sugar before baking. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl or food processor combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. With a pastry blender or food processor cut in butter until mixture represents coarse crumbs. Mix eggs with fork in a separate bowl and then add ½ cup of milk and blend into the flour mixture. Stir in cranberries or your choice of berries. Form dough into a ball and gently knead on a lightly floured board five times. Pack dough in to ¾ in thickness and use a butter knife or cookie cutter to cut 8-10 heart shapes. Brush each heart with milk and sprinkle with sugar Bake on a lightly greased cookie sheet at 425 degrees for 12-15 minutes until lightly browned. Serve with Raspberry preserves. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Propagating House Plants Gail Baxter and Marie Stolte, Master Gardeners Winter blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. January blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. Each plant species has its own preferred way to be propagated. Some prefer division (see list below) where a single plant is separated into two or more. Other plants start easily from cuttings (think philodendrons; stem pieces of 6” or so root easily in a glass of water). Some cuttings, like jade plant, can be started in seedless potting medium instead of water. And then, there are the cuttings that can be propagated from a single leaf, or even part of a leaf. Propagate from cuttings: Jade plant, aloe, hoya, Christmas cactus, snake plant, croton, Philodendron, Rex begonias, dragon wing begonias, kalanchoe, English ivy, dracaena, hen and chicks, pothos, African violet Propagate by division: Anthurium, peace lily, snake plant, pilea, dracaena, ZZ plant, spider plant (or plant the baby offsets) Fun with Rex Begonias By January, I am usually ready to propagate more Rex begonias . They come in many colors, and every year, I seem to buy a new variety to fill my summer containers. I bring them indoors in the fall and overwinter them as houseplants. To propagate them, I gather my materials: soil-less seed starting mix (or, you can use a 50-50 mix of perlite and vermiculite), cutting board, pruning shears and a razor blade (both sterilized with rubbing alcohol or bleach water), pins (I used quilter’s pins and T-pins), and a take-out container with a lid (punch several holes in the bottom). Step 1: Fill the nursery tray with the seed starting mix. Wet it well; when you gather a handful of soil and squeeze it, the soil should hold together but not be dripping. Step 2: Cut a healthy leaf with your pruners. Middle aged leaves work well, rather than very old or very young leaves. Cut off the stem so all that is left is the leaf. Step 3: Turn the leaf over so you can see the veins. Make a perpendicular cut across each of the largest veins with the razor blade. Step 4: With the leaf vein cuts facing down, press the leaf onto the soil and pin to hold the cuts firmly against the soil. Cover the container with the clear plastic lid, and put on a windowsill that receives indirect light—not direct sunlight, which can bake the tiny plants that emerge. Check the soil every few days and water if it starts to dry out. Within 6 to 8 weeks, baby leaves should appear near the site of each vein cut. Remove the plastic lid at this point. When the leaves are about a half-inch across, carefully separate the baby plants from each other and pot them individually in 3-inch pots. Look up your plant, and get propagating! Each plant type will have specific instructions for the type of soil to use for propagation, lighting, and other requirements. Look to the U of M Extension library or other trusted source for your specific plant. For instance, if you have cacti and Succulents or holiday cacti to propagate, the University offers tips on the environment these plants need to thrive. Propagating can become your creative outlet, too. Learn more about how to display your cuttings of 22 indoor plants and 17 more plants you can propagate from Planteria on YouTube. Propagating plants is fun to do. You can keep and raise the new plants, or share them with others so they can enjoy a little green, too. And remember: your houseplants could even become the next stars in your summer planters. Photo credits: Marie Stolte (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back To Till or Not to Till One sure sign of spring for me as a young man was my father-in-law rototilling his vegetable garden. He’d fire up his trusty TroyBuilt and belching smoke and fumes, pulverize a good portion of his back yard. The resultant fluffy black soil seemed to invite planting. Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener One sure sign of spring for me as a young man was my father-in-law rototilling his vegetable garden. He’d fire up his trusty TroyBuilt and belching smoke and fumes, pulverize a good portion of his back yard. The resultant fluffy black soil seemed to invite planting. Thinking has changed over the years, however. Many soil scientists are questioning the wisdom of unbridled tilling. We’ve come to realize that garden soil is more than a receptacle for water and plant nutrients. Rather it is a living entity harboring billions of microbes and minerals most of which are highly beneficial to plant growth. It also is a complex structural milieux, permitting the passage and retention of water, the movement of oxygen and other gases of plant metabolism. Tilling can disrupt these structures and destroy many of the microbes beneficial to plant growth. Over time this can lead to soil compaction, reduced water holding capacity and erosion. Paradoxically, it also can bring weed seeds to the surface to germinate. That’s not to say that the time-honored process of tillage is without benefit. It does create an even seedbed. It warms the soil in spring and helps to work in compost and other soil amendments. So how can you achieve these desirable results from methods other than tillage? In starting a new garden, a rototiller will make quick work of existing vegetation. However, the same result can be obtained by solarization or occultation. Solarization is achieved by placing a sheet of clear plastic over the future garden area and letting the sun fry any plants underneath. I prefer occultation, a fancy term for smothering plant life under black plastic. A black plastic tarp covering a field for occultation If you are trying to start a garden on heavily compacted soil, say an area that’s been run over by heavy mower for years, tilling may be the best solution. However, if the soil is workable consider using a broadfork. This is a dandy tool to reduce compaction in a new or existing garden without breaking up the soil aggregates. A broadfork has several metal tines on a bar with a couple of handlebars on each end. Stand on the bar and use your body weight to plunge the tines into the soil. Lean back and pull the tines through the soil. The creates soil aeration without turning it over or breaking it up as a tiller would. A seven-tine steel broadfork A broad fork in action Weed management has been a traditional role for tillers. The problem is they bring weed seeds up from the ground as they turn in grown weeds and their seeds. The end result is more annual weeds over time. If you reduce tillage this favors the dominance of perennial weeds which can be hand pulled or reduced by solarization or occultation as we talked about. Working in amendments of compost, manure, commercial fertilizers or cover crops is an important process to replenish your garden soil’s fertility. Traditionally this had been done with a tiller although there are good alternatives. We’ve already talked about the broadfork. Alternately a tilther can be used. This is a modified light tiller that only tills the top two or so inches of the soil. Being much shallower than the traditional tiller it can work in amendments while being much less destructive of the deeper soil structure. Want to learn more? Check out these links to the University of Minnesota Extension for alternatives to tillage: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/reducing-tillage-your-garden for solarization and occultation: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/use-suns-energy-kill-weeds Happy planting! Photo of Black Plastic Tarp on Field, Courtesy of Haley Rylander, Cornell University Photo of Seven-Tine Steel Broadfork courtesy of Bully Tools Broadfork at Gemplers.com Photo of Broadfork in Action courtesy of Seven Tine Unbreakable Broadfork at Way CoolTools.com

< Back Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Jack-in-the-Pulpit is a shade requiring native plant best grown in rich, moist woods or marshes. Read about this unique and fascinating long-lived perennial here. It takes a special kind of plant to survive near our marsh. The ground ranges from damp to soggy, the shade is at best partial but mostly deep once you step a foot or two into the surrounding woods. Yet it is in this challenging environment that Jack in the Pulpit is most content. This unusual but long-lived native perennial is found in moist woodlands throughout most of the eastern half of the United States. It is prevalent throughout Minnesota and most of the Upper Midwest, hardy up through Zone 3. The flower is 3 to 4 inches tall and about 2 inches across. It is made up of a 2- to 3-inch-long club (the “Jack”, or spadix) sitting in a tubular base with a hood (the “pulpit”, or spathe). The spadix is light to reddish green. The spathe is light to purplish green and often dotted with white or purplish stripes. Plants are either male or female but you can’t tell without peering into the “pulpit”. It is there that either the staminate (female) or pistillate (male) organs are to be found. Speaking of gender, Jack in the Pulpit is rather fluid in that department. A given plant can change sex from year to year. Apparently, this is a function of how successful they were or were not in pollinating during the previous season. Once the plant decides if he/she is to be a boy or girl for the season its structure differentiates accordingly. Males tend to be smaller than females. They sprout from an underground corm which can send out runners producing additional plants. Consequently, Jack-in-the-Pulpits are usually found in colonies with a tall female plant surrounded by smaller male plants. The male plant has a hole in the bottom of its spathe (“pulpit”) which provides an easy exit for pollinating insects, usually small flies or gnats. In contrast, females have no such exit in their spathe, forcing a would-be pollinator to squirm around a bit to get out. This increases the likelihood of pollen being deposited on the staminate structures within the spathe. Pretty clever interior design! Jack in the Pulpit can be grown from seed but it takes four to five years before the plant flowers. So, if you are thinking of planting some, you might consider buying a corm instead of seed. Once mature, the female plant produces flowers in late spring to early summer. When fertilized smooth green berries are produced. In late summer they ripen to a deep red as the leaves wither. These berries are about a quarter inch in diameter appearing in ovoid shaped clusters which can be up to 2 inches long. Each berry contains one to seven small seeds. These prove tempting to many woodland birds, including wild turkeys, who eat the ripe berries and excrete the seeds. So, if you have a moist shaded spot in your garden and are looking for a suitable native perennial, the unusual but showy Jack in the Pulpit may just be your guy. Photo credits: Flickr.com (1, 2)

< Back Strawberry Asparagus Salad and a Challenge! Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s July and some of your vegetables and fruit are ripe for picking – yay! Two of these early products are asparagus and strawberries. And, luckily, they go together in a delicious salad. Read Joy Johnson’s article for an easy recipe. And, keep reading for a more difficult recipe for Strawberry Cucumber bread. If you’re up for the challenge, you will be rewarded with a delicious treat! Did you know that asparagus and strawberries go well together in two ways? One way is to do companion plantings with groups of asparagus inter-mixed with strawberry plants. Because the asparagus grows tall and starts sprouting out of the ground ahead of the strawberry plants, you can grow them together and harvest them at nearly the same time. The second way is to eat them together. Their flavors are complimentary and make a fresh summer salad. Here is a very simple recipe that pulls together in no time. You can jazz it up by adding sliced almonds, poppy seeds, goat cheese or crumbled feta or blue cheese. I didn’t have those ingredients on hand, so I’m keeping it simple tonight! Strawberry Asparagus Salad Ingredients: 2 cups asparagus, cut in pieces and blanched 2 cups strawberries, sliced Dressing: ¼ cup lemon juice 2 TBSP vegetable oil. 2 TBSP honey Directions: Toss the asparagus and strawberries together in a bowl. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the dressing ingredients and mix well. Pour dressing over salad and toss. Chill before serving. Strawberry Cucumber Bread – If You Like a Challenge! This colorful bread can be served at breakfast or as a dessert or in the middle of the day with a cup of tea or coffee. I came across this recipe when I googled “spring breads”. It has two of my favorite foods in it: strawberries and cucumbers, which I thought was an interesting combination for a quick bread. It was very challenging to make! First, I had to clarify butter. I didn’t start with a small enough pan, so when I had to scrape off the butter foam without dipping my spoon into the clear layer underneath, that wasn’t going to work. So, I dumped it into a smaller pan, which completely negated the instruction to not stir it or disturb the layers in any way. I gently scraped off the foam after waiting an extra hour with the pan over really low heat, and I figured it would re-layer itself if I waited long enough. Then I was supposed to separate the clarified butter from the water, which I could do by pouring it off. Hmm, it all looked the same to me. So, I went back to my computer to get some work done (that I get paid for) and left the pot on very low heat for another hour. When I came back into the kitchen, there was the butter - thick and smooth, but definitely not clear. I scooped it out of the pot so I could measure it and discovered about a teaspoon of water underneath. I did pour that off. I used this butter in the recipe, but I can’t say if it met the definition of ‘clarified’. The next challenge was the baking. It flowed over my bread pan and all over the oven floor. I scraped the bottom rack and the bottom of the oven clean as soon as I discovered it, so it wouldn’t start on fire, which was after about an hour of baking. The bread should have been done at that point. But it wasn’t even close with the hot batter still running over the side of the pan. So, I covered it with a tent of foil in an effort to get the inside baked and not brown the outside any further. I checked it every 15 minutes. It still wasn’t done and was still volcano-ing onto the oven floor. It ended up in the oven for an extra 40 minutes (at least, I went out to rake the lawn!) and then I gave up and took it out. I put it in the microwave for 2 ½ minutes on high to get the inside cooked. The next challenge was getting it out of the bread pan. I let it cool on a cooling rack until it was just warm. I had greased and floured the pan before filling it. I gently went around the edge with a butter knife, sawing through the dark parts where the batter had flowed over the pan. Tipped it over - no movement. I went around the pan with the knife again, twice, then turned it on one side and worked on that side, turned it over to the other side and worked on that side. It finally came free in one piece! Of course, I sliced it and ate a piece right away. It was delicious , especially when I hit a pocket of the strawberry preserves, but I’m not sure it was worth all the effort! Strawberry Cucumber Bread (from Bon Appetite Magazine) modified slightly by me Ingredients: ½ cup strawberry preserves 1 T cornstarch 1T fresh lemon juice ½ c sort of clarified butter, room temp 1 c sugar 2 large eggs 1t vanilla extract ¼ t almond extract 2c all -purpose flour 1 t baking powder ½ t baking soda ½ t salt 2 cups grated and well drained cucumber ½ c chopped walnuts ½ c sliced fresh strawberries, divided Instructions: In a small saucepan, cook strawberry preserves, cornstarch, and lemon juice over medium heat until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Let cool completely. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with baking spray and sprinkle with flour. In a bowl, beat clarified butter and sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in extracts. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating just until combined. Stir in cucumber, walnuts, and ¼ cup (42.5 grams) sliced strawberries. Spoon half of batter into prepared pan; top with strawberry preserve mixture. Add remaining batter, and top with remaining ¼ cup (42.5 grams) strawberry slices. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan and let cool completely on a wire rack. Wrap and store at room temperature for up to 1 week. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Picking the Perfect Jack-O-Lantern Pumpkin Linda Stein, Master Gardener Picking out and carving pumpkins is a favorite family activity in October. Read on for tips about how to choose and carve your pumpkins and what to do with all those seeds. As October arrives, many children and their families are thinking about Halloween. If your family is like mine, pumpkin carving is an essential part of that event. You can be overwhelmed looking at the vats full of pumpkins at the grocery store or the rows and rows of pumpkins in your nearby pumpkin patch. So , when should you pick your pumpkin and what should you look for in the myriad of options? Pumpkins generally last 8 to 12 weeks after they are picked. However, they will start to wilt within 5 to 10 days after they are hollowed out and carved. So , plan accordingly. How to Pick the Perfect Pumpkin Cooking vs carving - Pumpkins used for cooking or for pie making look similar to those chosen to carve into Jack-O-Lanterns. However, there are differences. These pumpkins are referred to as pie pumpkins or sugar pumpkins. They are generally smaller, denser and darker in color. Their flesh is less stringy and sweeter. Larger pumpkins used for carving or decorating are generally known as field pumpkins and besides being larger in size, also have a watery, stringy flesh which doesn’t work as well for cooking. What to look for in a carving pumpkin 1. Color- Color is not an indication of quality of pumpkin. However, you should avoid a pumpkin with blemishes, cracks, splits or soft spots. 2. Stem - Make sure your pumpkin has at least a 1-2 inch stem. If the stem is cut down too low the pumpkin will decay quickly or may already be decaying. And make sure the stem is firm and bright colored. If not the pumpkin might have been picked and stored for an extended period of time. Since it is important to retain the stem, make sure that you don’t risk breaking it off by carrying the pumpkin by the stem. 3. Scratch test - Test for the maturity of a pumpkin by gently pressing your fingernail into the rind. A mature pumpkin will resist scratching. If the surface is easily penetrated, the pumpkin was picked too early and will end up rotting. 4. Poke test - Gently squeeze or press your fingers into the fruit. Pay close attention to the blossom end, or bottom, and around the stem. A fresh pumpkin should be solid to the touch. 5. Tap Test - Your pumpkin should sound slightly hollow when tapped gently. 6. Weight - You want to pick a pumpkin that is heavy. However, a very heavy pumpkin may indicate thicker walls which will be more difficult to carve. Carving Since the pumpkin will start to wilt in about 5 to 10 days, think about carving your pumpkin upside down by hollowing it out from the bottom. That way as the pumpkin begins to wilt, the flesh won’t sink in from the top. If the walls are so thick that they are difficult to carve, you can shave the walls on the inside. Storing Your Jack-O-Lantern should be stored in cooler conditions but avoid frost. Some sources recommend wiping the fruit off with a solution of bleach water to reduce rot and decay. What About Those Seeds? Another family tradition is roasting the seeds collected from the inside of the pumpkin you’re carving. Pumpkin seeds are an excellent source of protein, unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants, dietary fiber, magnesium and Vitamin K. But beware, they are also high in calories. In addition to enjoying them as a snack, WebMD also suggests the following uses: • Add them to smoothies • Mix them into granola, yogurt, or cereal • Use them to add some extra crunch to a salad • Garnish any meal, like soups, chicken dishes, or pastas • Blend them with other ingredients in a dip like hummus, pesto, or guacamole • Bake them into cookies and breads Happy picking, carving and Halloween! References https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/vegetables/how-to-pick-the-perfect-pumpkin.html https://extension.umn.edu/news/scoop-pumpkins-5-fun-fall-facts https://blogs.extension.iastate.edu/answerline/2018/10/04/pick-the-best-pumpkin/ https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-pumpkin-seeds Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Sarah Heidtke (2, 3)

< Back Canada Anemone, A Hardy Native Groundcover James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Looking for a low maintenance, vigorous, hardy and attractive groundcover? Consider the native Canada Anemone. If you have a difficult slope that never grows grass, a clay or sandy patch that defies seeding with bluegrass or fescue, consider the Canada anemone. Anemone canadensis is otherwise known as meadow anemone, crowfoot or round leaf anemone. It’s a tough guy, found native throughout the Upper Midwest, most commonly on river banks, flood plains or low moist meadows. It provides an excellent groundcover in medium to moist soils. Although it will self-seed, it spreads primarily by rhizomes. This it does rapidly and will form good coverage in two growing seasons with proper conditions. As it is a vigorous grower, it can muscle out other low growing plants unless managed. If you need to contain this anemone, garden edging that goes 6 to 8 inches into the ground should do the trick. Once established, its attractive bright green foliage is graced with lovely white flowers in May, June and early July. The plant’s height usually is less than one foot and it can be mowed lower. It does well in full sun to partial shade. It seems that the cooler the environment, the more sun it will tolerate. Canada anemone settles in nicely in a variety of clay, sand or loam soils. It is hardy to Zone 3 through 6 to 7 although it prefers the cooler, more northern climes. Drier soils and hotter temperatures further south than central Illinois can be a problem. The plant’s name derives from Greek mythology. The nymph Anemone, like the plant, was quite a looker. She attracted the devoted attentions of the God of the West Wind, Zephyr. Unfortunately for all concerned, Zephyr was married to Chloris or in Roman nomenclature, Flora the goddess of flowers and springtime. Needless to say, Flora was miffed at Zephyr’s philandering. She terminated the relationship by turning Anemone into the eponymous flower. Ancient Greece being the strongly patriarchal society that it was, legend is silent as to how Zephyr fared. Like Zephyr, you would be well advised to exercise circumspection in your choices. In selecting ground covers most nurseries offer a variety of aggressive Asian or European imports, commonly Vinca minor or periwinkle. Vinca like so many other non-natives can escape cultivation and invade natural areas. Although Canada anemone is also a hardy grower it strikes a balance in the wild and coexists with other native species in a balanced ecology. Another significant benefit of planting a native such as Anemone canadensis rather than an import is Anemone’s contribution to pollinators. The flowers offer both abundant nectar and nutrient-rich pollen. Vinca , in contrast provides little attraction to native pollinators. For a low-maintenance, vigorous, hardy and attractive groundcover you could do well to consider the native Canada anemone. Photo credits: US Forest Service (1, 2)

< Back What Will This Warm Winter Do To My Plants And Is Dakota County Warmer? Some of us enjoyed our strangely warm winter and others of us mourned the lack of snow and cold temperatures. But for gardeners, the main concerns now center around questions like – what effect will the warm, snowless winter have on my plants; on how I prune my trees and shrubs; and what about the bug population? And looking beyond this year, is Minnesota warming? And, if so, what does that mean for the plants I have or will plant? Read this article for some answers to your questions. Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener & Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener How Will the Warm Winter Affect My Plants This Year? The lack of cold and snow may have some effect on your plants, shrubs and trees but there are some things that you can do now, and in the future, to mitigate the damage. Which plants are likely to be affected depends somewhat on your fall preparation and on other factors, such as the plant species. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension experts have prepared an excellent article that provides answers to all of these questions. Click this link to access a thorough discussion and practical advice for dealing with the effects of our warm winter. How does the 2023 hardiness zone change affect my garden? The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) produces a “plant hardiness zone map,” which is a tool based on average annual extreme winter temperatures. The zone map can help gardeners decide which plants may grow well in their garden. Of course, other factors affect whether a plant will thrive in your garden, notably - soil, sun, water and care. But the zone map is a helpful tool and so is something of which you should be aware. In 2023, the USDA updated the zone maps for the first time since 2012. The 2023 USDA hardiness zone map documents the average minimum temperatures of weather from 1991 to 2020. There are 13 zones in the USDA zone map, divided into 10 degree increments. The larger numbers are warmer zones and smaller numbers are cooler zones. Each zone is also divided into half zones (“a” and “b”) which indicate a 5 degree change in temperature. It’s a pretty good bet that a plant that can thrive in zone 13 is not going to thrive in zone 4. So, the farther south you are the warmer it gets, right? Well, not always. In the 2012 zone map, Dakota county was in the 4b zone . In the 2023 zone map, parts of Dakota County are in 5a (-20 to -15) and others are in 4b (-25 to -20). Significantly, the 2023 map is able to show variations due to “heat sinks” near cities, mountains and bodies of water. In other words, cities tend to hold more heat because they include large areas of concrete and blacktop. Areas of the county closer to the Twin Cities are actually warmer than farther south! But note that more of southwestern Minnesota is now in the 5a zone as well. Being aware of your zone will allow you to make better choices when you buy plants. Plants that were once marginally hardy in the Dakota County area may now have a higher chance of surviving. When you buy a plant at your local nursery, they may have a tag that gives you the zones in which it is hardy. Before, you might have passed over “Reticulated Iris” (zones 5-9). Now, if you live in an area in the (5a) heat sink of the Twin Cities, you might give it a shot. References: blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu Updated USDA hardiness zoning maps Madeline Wimmer, Extension Educator, Fruit Crops Images: The new 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for Minnesota (left) and previous from 2... extension.umn.edu A new plant hardiness zone map from the USDA Using data collected from over 13,000 weather stations during a 30-year period, the new USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map provides higher resolution and more accurate zonal information. Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons), Photo 2 – University of Minnesota Extension

< Back BULBS 101 Snowdrops and daffodils are harbingers of spring, the first flowers to appear after the snow has melted and the days start to lengthen. For many of us, these early bulbs are a wake-up call, reminding us that the growing season is beginning. Of course, if seeing daffodils makes us want them in our own gardens, it’s too late for this year! For many Minnesota gardeners, bulbs have been in our yards for decades. However, if you’re new to bulbs or would just like a more in-depth look at them, this Bulb Primer is for you! Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener Not all bulbs are bulbs: Understanding the different types: True Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, and Rhizomes Not all of what we home gardeners call bulbs are—technically speaking—bulbs. Horticulturists identify different structures for different flowers, and these terms highlight the great variety we find amongst our favorite flowers. A true bulb has a plate from which roots will shoot, and is made up of several scales or layers like garlic bulbs that contain nutrients for its growth. True bulbs include daffodils, alliums, hyacinths, and tulips. Corms, like crocuses and gladioli, have a similar plate of roots, but no scales; they are a solid, compressed food storage unit. Tubers, like dahlias and begonias, bud from an enlarged rootlike structure which multiplies underground like potatoes, while rhizomes, like canna lilies and lily-of-the-valley, are horizontal structures that look like swollen stems. The horticultural name for bulbs—for all true bulbs, corms, rhizomes, tubers —is geophytes. It’s fitting, as “geo” means “earth” and “phyte” means plant. These plants of the earth all have underground storage organs from which they will grow. Hardy versus Tender Much like Minnesota retirees, the most important distinction amongst geophytes is where they will spend the winter. Do they like the cold or will they need warmer weather? Hardy bulbs are tough enough to survive outside in the wintertime. In fact, that cold snap is vital! Because of this, hardy bulbs are planted in autumn and will bloom for the first time the following spring. Hardy bulbs are often the first flowers to appear in spring: snowdrops, daffodils, crocuses, alliums, and more. They must be buried to the appropriate depth, and in an area with good drainage. Although hardy bulbs can stay in the ground indefinitely, they do require some maintenance. Every 3-4 years, hardy bulbs may need to be dug up and divided to prevent overcrowding. Tender bulbs are too delicate for winter and must be removed from our gardens before a frost sets in. Stored indoors during winter, they can be planted again in late spring for late summer or autumn blossoms. Canna lilies, begonias, freesia, gladiolus, and dahlias are amongst the most popular tender bulbs. Learn how to care for bulbs and rhizomes over the winter to prevent problems and rot. Take care when digging up bulbs, clean the soil from them gently, and in some cases, let them cure for a week in the sunlight before storing them in paper bags out of the light during winter months. For more information, read this article from the U of M Extension. If you want to plant hardy bulbs, you will have to wait for the fall. But you can still plant tender bulbs this spring for enjoyment during the summer. Resources: U of MN Extension: Planting Bulbs, Tubers, and Rhizomes. https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes#soil-preparation-1410662 University of FL: Geophytes. https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/07-geophytes/01-bulbs/02-geophytes-bulbs.html Photo Credits: U of M Extension (1,2), www.flickr.com (3)

< Back Foraging 101 Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement. Here are some suggestions on how to get started. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Morel mushrooms, the state mushroom of Minnesota, are a prized commodity for top restaurant chefs and home cooks alike. Rarely found in a supermarket, these mushrooms often run over $150 per pound when purchased online. A more frugal solution is simply foraging for the mushrooms—the cost of morels is now only your time. Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement, the “gatherer” portion of the hunter-gatherer society. It requires a connection to the land, a knowledge of what is edible, where certain plants can be found, and when in the year they will be ready for consumption. Once necessary for human survival, foraging is now made superfluous by grocery stores and food manufacturing. Today foraging is a choice, and its popularity is growing each year. For gardeners, foraging is an extension of the practice in the garden. Often what is foraged cannot be cultivated in a home garden—particularly for wild mushrooms, but also for wild onions or other plants. Learning the forageable plants near home, as well as their life cycles, opens up all sorts of possibilities for new plants to eat. Frequently Asked Questions Q: What can I forage in Minnesota? A: Everything from mushrooms and wild fruit to nuts, evergreens, leafy greens, and even cattails. Q: Is foraging just for food? A: No. You can also forage for natural specimens or even art supplies, as many plants and mushrooms such as lobster mushrooms and sumac are sources of dye. Q: Is it legal to forage in Minnesota? A: Sometimes! Double check your laws before taking anything from publicly owned land, and know if you are on national, state, or regional land. It is LEGAL to forage small quantities in MN State Parks as long as it is for home use, not to be sold for a profit. It is ILLEGAL to forage in any Dakota County Regional Park. As for national land like national parks and national forests? The laws are different for each one. Look up rules specific to the national forest or park you want to forage in. Q: Once I have determined that I may legally forage, what’s the best practice for sustainability? A: Take less than 20% of what you find in the wild for most foraged items, and take less than 10% of what you find if it is particularly slow growing, like mosses or lichens. Q: Where can I learn more about foraging? A: A few excellent resources include Euall Gibbons’ 1962 book Stalking the Wild Asparagus , MN chef Alan Bergo’s website ForagerChef.com , and Bergo’s newest book The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora (2021). For more on foraging laws, see Baylen J. Linnekin’s article “Food Law Gone Wild: The Law of Foraging” (2018). https://ir.lawnet.fordham.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2740&context=ulj Photo credit: Kevin Miyazaki/Meredith (Creative Commons)(1)

< Back Purple Clematis (Clematis occidentalis): Beauty Reaching Upwards Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener If you are a fan of clematis, you know that there are dozens of varieties to choose from. In this article, Jim Lakin states the case for the “good old native purple clematis.” It’s on of Jim’s favorites. Read his article to understand why. I must admit, I’m a big fan of clematis. I have over a dozen varieties running up wire fences around the back garden, blooming at different times of spring and summer, effortlessly providing an ongoing show of color and form. Yet, of all the flashy varietals, good old native purple clematis remains a favorite. It’s tough but fairly easy to grow. Once established, it is vigorous but long lived, a dependable but showy workhorse. Purple clematis, sometimes known as “Purple Virgin’s Bower” is native to most of the upper East Coast and Midwest, extending up into Eastern Canada, so it is hardy all through Minnesota. In the wild it is found in "calcareous cliffs, rock ledges, talus slopes, gravelly embankments, rocky woods, and clearings" (Flora of North America, Volume 3. 1997). As you might imagine, the vine is not too picky about soils and will do well in a variety of environments, although you should make sure it has decent drainage. Clematis will need support to climb on as the plant will send out several shoots that can grow as tall as 12 feet although usually 4 to 6 feet. As a woodland plant it is mostly found in partial sun environments but usually tolerates full sun. This perennial woody vine blooms in May and June although it can appear a bit earlier in southern Minnesota. It produces gorgeous blue-violet to pinkish purple flowers 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long. Several pollinators have been recorded visiting purple clematis, most frequently bumble bees. In late summer into fall, fruiting bodies are formed from the flowers. The styles elongate to form “tails” about 2 inches long, upon which green to rusty brown seeds form which are spread by the wind. There are, at present over 200 cultivars of clematis, which are wondrous in their variety and well worth growing, if you have the room. However, a great place to start is with the simple elegance of the native species, Clematis occidentalis. Photo credits: Minnesota Wildflowers, K. Chayka (1), Minnesota Wildflowers, P.M. Dziuk (2)

< Back Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Not every seed is created equal. Trying to get some of the native perennials to germinate seems to require an Act of Congress. And they’re gridlocked! Not so with the humble but glorious zinnia. In my book, zinnias are some of the most overlooked yet rewarding annuals a Minnesotan could hope for. Although originating in Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., varieties have been developed all over the world. Yet they all still retain their love of warmth and sunlight, a commodity sometimes in short supply up here. Fear not! Simply sew zinnia seeds after the last hard frost and bide your time. As things warm up the seedlings will take care of the rest, producing blooms from late spring, far into the fall. If you have a warm sunny spot inside, you might even consider starting some seeds four to six weeks before the last frost. Unlike some more persnickety plants, zinnias germinate readily. You can set them out in the garden when they get two to four inches tall and enjoy weeks of blooms before the seeds you sewed get in gear. There are many varieties of zinnias ranging in height from 6 inches to 4 feet. I like the older, smaller blooms. They are hardy, fast growing, and tough plants. As I said, they do need full sun and warmth, but ask little else. One fertilization a season usually suffices. They are quite disease resistant. Powdery mildew seems to be the only common malady. It doesn’t look very attractive, but the plants usually survive. To keep them happy and mildew free, select a well-drained location for planting. Zinnias don’t like their feet wet. Mixed zinnias in full summer bloom If you find a variety you really like, consider collecting seeds in the late fall. Just cut off the spent flowers, shake out the seeds onto a sheet of paper, slip them into an envelope and store in the fridge until early next spring to start indoors or sew in the garden a bit later. Either way you will have bold, bright colors to cheer you through the gardening season! Late fall zinnia seed heads ready for harvest Want to learn more about zinnias than you thought there was to learn? Try Eric Grissell’s new book, A History of Zinnias: Flower for the Ages , Perdue University Press, West Layette, IN, 2020. Photo credits: Jim Lakin (1, 2)