< Back Azaleas - a beautiful addition to the garden Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Azalea shrubs are a beautiful addition to the garden. The University of Minnesota developed a winter hardy azalea – ‘Northern Lights’ - which is now available in many different colors. In this article, you will learn how to care for azaleas, some of the lore about them, and why you will want them in your yard. Azaleas make a wonderful splash of color in mid-spring! Azaleas are flowering shrubs in the Rhododendron family. All azaleas are rhododendrons but not all rhododendrons are azaleas. The key differences are bloom time, growth habit and appearance. The most popular azalea for Minnesota is the ‘Northern Lights’ azalea. It was developed at the University of Minnesota by Albert Johnson and was the first azalea to flower prolifically after minus 40° winters. Its introduction led to the development of many other colors after Albert Johnson’s death. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas https://www.azaleas.org/wp-content/uploads/azalean/31/2/articles/Northern_Lights_Azaleas.pdf Azaleas need at least 4 hours of dappled sunlight, but in northern climates they can sometimes take almost full sun. It is extremely important that they have a soil pH of <5.5 that drains well. Fertilize in late winter or early spring. Azaleas bloom on last year’s growth so, the best time to prune is just after flowering. Azaleas need a sheltered area protected from icy winter winds, not a hot area next to the house. Don’t cultivate around azaleas because it will damage their shallow fibrous roots. The Woodland-Azalea Garden at the UMN Landscape Arboretum features many of the Northern Lights series of azaleas. All over the MN Landscape Arboretum in general, you can see Albert Johnson’s original pink-flowered ‘Northern Lights’. The series is known the world-over for varied colors and flower-bud hardiness - an achievement that took two decades. Historically, azaleas have been associated with various emotions and symbols. Generally, they are said to represent good qualities, such as: Temperance – the Victorians often carried a bloom if they supported the prohibition of alcohol. Emotional evenness. Passion that is still developing and fragile. Despite being overwhelmingly associated with positive qualities, Azaleas have a dark side as they are also associated with death threats-but only when sent in a black vase! This link may have occurred because in sufficient quantity, all parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. https://www.flowermeaning.com/azalea-flower-meaning/ Azaleas are susceptible to some pests including: aphids, scale, thrips and Azalea sawflies. Azalea woes? Try University of Minnesota Extension’s publication: ‘What’s wrong with my plant?’ Check out this University of Minnesota Extension site for more information on, and to identify, Sawfly larvae. Pest Control: ‘Pick and Plunk’- picking sawfly larvae and plunking them into a bucket of soapy water. Squishing the insects - not for the squeamish. A strong jet of water. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Azadirachtin and spinosad are effective for 1-2 weeks. Sawflies that feed on treated foliage are affected. These products have little impact on other insects. Residual pesticides include permethrin, bifenthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, and carbaryl and are most effective against young larvae. One application is usually sufficient. Follow the label instructions exactly and the timing must minimize contact with pollinators. Note: Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Btk) is specific to caterpillars and does NOT kill sawfly larvae. These are some other hardy azaleas: Roseshell Azalea, zones 3-8, 4’-8’ x 4’-8’ one of the parents of the Northern Lights series Compact Korean Azalea, zones 4-8, 2-4’ x 2-4’ Lavender pink Pinxterbloom Azalea , native to the eastern United States and hardy to zone 4. This is the perfect time to plan to add azaleas to your landscape! P.S. Don’t forget a soil test in the spring to help determine how to amend your soil! https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ Photo Credits: Photo 1: Pixabay.com (public domain) Photos 2-7: Marjory Blare

< Back Harvest Time with Kids! Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener It’s time to get the kids in your life ready for harvesting all of the bounty around us. Whether you’ve been tending plants all summer or want to visit any number of “pick your own” locations in our area, harvesting is a great way to connect children to produce right where it grows. Kids of all ages can harvest fruit, vegetables, and herbs! Toddlers can pick a strawberry or a cherry tomato with a little guidance, preschoolers can identify beans to pick, and older kids can reach an apple from the tree or gently pull a carrot from the ground. The best part is that they can see right in front of them where the food comes from and how it is growing just before they pick it. It is important for children (especially our youngest ones) to check with an adult before eating anything they find growing to make sure it’s safe. Getting set up is easy! Young harvesters don’t need fancy gear, but some things may help them enjoy the process more: Tools that fit in their hands - think safety scissors for little hands to clip some basil or chives Gloves - not required, but some kids find that a comfortable and well-fitting pair of gloves make touching plants and dirt easier. Something to carry their bounty - a right-size basket, an empty ice cream bucket, a tote bag, or even a cart to push or wagon to pull. Outside activity items like a hat and water bottle help keep little harvesters going. Where to go? Maybe you have your own container garden, tree, or garden bed that you’ve planted, taken care of, and anticipated harvesting with your children so you don’t need to travel far for your harvest. There are also many places that offer pick your own seasonal produce. Check out https://minnesotagrown.com for a fun location - you can filter by plant and geography to plan a harvest outing that works for you and the children in your life. Does your child have access to a school garden? More and more schools are introducing the benefits of growing and harvesting produce to their students and families, including right here in Dakota County! Check out this link for information on University of Minnesota Extension school garden programs (and more great ideas for gardening with kids) here: https://extension.umn.edu/farm-school/school-gardens What to harvest? Some fruits, vegetables and herbs have been available since late spring and many are coming into a bountiful harvest right now in August, and more will continue through our first freeze in fall. Exact times vary year to year, but here’s a great chart from Minnesota Grown to give you an idea of what’s good eating when you are ready to harvest: https://minnesotagrown.com/whats-in-season/ Looking for ways to enjoy those harvests right away with your young harvest crew? How about pairing carrots, cherry tomatoes, and mini peppers with a little ranch dressing for a quick healthy snack? Apple slices with caramel or peanut butter are delicious! In the fall, carve a pumpkin and roast the seeds for another fun treat. For more ideas, try these “One Bite Lessons” from Life Lab: https://lifelab.org/2021/04/one-bite-lessons/ Food Safety Of course, part of setting up healthy habits for children includes safe handling. Here’s a link to more information about ‘Handling Fresh Fruits and Vegetables Safely,” whether you are eating them right away or preserving for later consumption from University of MN Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/preserving-and-preparing/wash-fresh-fruits-and-vegetables The most important part of harvesting with kids is to set them up for healthy habits as they grow up. Having fun with the garden harvest is a great way to explore new foods at their best. Fortunately, we have many options throughout the growing season here in Minnesota. Happy Harvesting! Looking for books to get little ones excited about the garden harvest or to read after you’ve been out picking your favorites? Here are some suggestions, all available at Dakota County Libraries: Garden time [board book] by Jill McDonald. "Teaches toddlers all about gardens--with easy-to-understand facts about how plants grow and how gardening puts food on our tables.” (Provided by publisher) It's Our Garden: From Seeds to Harvest in a School Garden by George Ancona. “Part celebration, part simple how-to, this close-up look at a vibrant garden and its enthusiastic gardeners is blooming with photos that will have readers ready to roll up their sleeves and dig in.” Garden to Table: A Kid's Guide to Planting, Growing, and Preparing Food by Katherine Hengel with Lisa Wagner. For older kids ready to try out some recipes with their harvest. Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4, 5), book covers (6, 7, 8)

< Back Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Is there a food more identified with October than pumpkin! Of course not! So, here is Joy Johnson’s delicious recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake. Joy says she is targeting adults with this recipe but kids will love it, too! Pumpkin is nutritious and delicious. It can be used in a variety of ways. It’s easy to get kids to eat their veggies when you roast them, bake them in a pie or make a frothy drink out of them. Remember Harry Potter’s love for Pumpkin Juice? I shared all those recipes in last year’s October Garden Buzz, so I thought I’d focus on the adults this year. Yes, you can have your coffee and eat it too. Here is a recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake , with coffee frosting of course! Cake Ingredients: ½ cup butter, room temperature 2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar 1 T pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 15 oz can pumpkin puree 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 ¼ tsp baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ teaspoon ground ginger ¾ teaspoon ground cardamom 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg ¾ teaspoon salt Frosting Ingredients: ½ cup salted butter, at room temperature 2 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature 1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar 1 T instant coffee powder 1 T vanilla extract Process: Preheat the oven to 350. Grease and flour an 8-inch square baking pan. MAKE THE CAKE: In a stand mixer, beat together the butter, brown sugar, vanilla, eggs, and pumpkin on low until combined, about 1 minute, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cardamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix at medium speed until completely smooth with no lumps remaining, for about 2 minutes. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the center is just set, 25-30 minutes, place it on a cooling rack. Let cool. MEANWHILE, MAKE THE FROSTING: Beat together the butter and cream cheese until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, instant coffee powder, and vanilla. Beat until the frosting is light and fluffy, 2-4 minutes more. Spread the frosting over the cake. Slice, snack and enjoy. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Photo Credits: www.aceofgray.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): A survivor for All Seasons Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Eastern Red Cedar is a beautiful and tenacious native tree that grows vigorously through most of the eastern United States including the lower half of Minnesota. It is a towering and long-lived tree and is an important food source for birds and mammals. Read this article to learn more about this important native tree. Sometimes, something starts growing somewhere and something inside you says “Let it be.” That’s how I came to gain the acquaintance of Eastern Red Cedar as it popped up beside a boulder on the slope of our west lawn. Rather than pull it out, I watched it struggle, overcome and become the beautiful tree that now graces the west side of our home. Like so many natives, it is a very tenacious fellow and grows vigorously through most of the eastern United States including the lower half of Minnesota. So, it does well through Zone 4. Mature red cedar The tree is known variously as Virginia juniper, eastern juniper or red juniper. Although a slow grower, red cedar can reach as high as 60 feet - although in poor soils it may remain no more than a bush. It assumes a pyramidal or cylindrical shape with reddish brown bark and green needle like leaves. It is a dioecious species (boy and girl trees) with the male pollinating and the female forming dark purple berry-like seed cones. These berries form an important food source for many birds such as cedar waxwings, turkeys and bluebirds during the winter months. A number of small mammals such as rabbits, foxes, raccoons and coyotes also feed off red cedar berries. The tree is a long lived with a several hundred-year life-span, if undisturbed. red cedar berries Red cedar is a pioneer species and will be seen early on in fire ravaged areas. But, a cautionary note - owing to its adaptability and perseverance, it can be invasive and has radically changed the ecology of some grasslands. Also, it acts as alternate host for cedar-apple rust, a potentially destructive fungus for apple trees. Consequently, you might want to keep red cedar away from nearby apple orchards. There are many distinct cultivars of Juniperus virginiana, which you might expect given its vast native range. A recent book by Laurence Hatch* does a masterful job of differentiating and describing them. Whatever cultivar you choose, you will be treated to a tough, faithful coniferous companion for many years. *Hatch, L., Cultivars of Woody Plants: Juniperus virginiana and scopulorum, A cultivar.org Garden Monograph, Cary, NC, 2023. Photo Credits: Farmartin, Wikipedia (1), Humoyun Mehridinov, Wikipedia (2)

< Back Houseplant Pests Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Discovering and controlling pests on your indoor plants is an important step for keeping your indoor garden healthy and happy. The information in this article will help you keep these unwanted visitors off your plants and out of your home. Last month we talked about keeping your houseplants healthy, paying attention to growing requirements, fertilization, watering, hygiene and potting soil. Minding all these factors will reduce the chance of sickly plants and pest attacks. Yet, alas, in even the best of environments, insect problems sometimes rear their ugly heads. So, what to do if you suspect you have some unwelcome residents on your houseplants? As we said, inspect them for insect pests when you water, clean or fertilize. They most often congregate on the underside of leaves. You should look for insects, holes, webbing or eggs. Give an even closer inspection to any plants brought in from the store or the outside. Using a magnifying glass helps. It also impresses any bystanders. You want to look for “honeydew” which is a shiny sticky substance produced by aphids, mealybugs and scale insects. Also check plant containers for pests along the ridges and bottom of pots and saucers. It’s not a bad idea to put a new plant in quarantine, away from the rest of your collection, for a week or two. More often than not a pest problem will declare itself during this period. Honeydew on houseplant leaves. When you water the plants keep a sharp lookout for bugs like springtails and fungus gnats. They usually move with the water. If you think you might have flying insects like thrips, winged aphids, fungus gnats or whiteflies, setting up a sticky paper trap like the one illustrated can help in detection. A yellow sticky card can trap flies. If you find an infestation early on, more often than not you can manage it without pesticides. That’s good for you and for the environment. Washing the plant will remove small infestations. Use a paper towel to wipe leaves, changing the paper frequently to prevent spread. You can wash small plants in the sink and larger ones in the shower. Be one with your Ficus! You can physically remove many pests. Larger insects such as millipedes, slugs, caterpillars or earwigs can be picked off the plants. Mealybugs can be removed with a forceps (tweezers) or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Those hard little grey scales can be taken off the plant with a fingernail file. Pruning is another option if the critters are isolated on a few leaves, stems or branches. Be aggressive. Most plants will recover remarkably well if relieved of their insect burden and given the right growing environment. If all else fails and the plant looks like a goner, don’t hesitate to toss it. This avoids exposing other plants to the same pest problem, which will save you grief in the long run. Rather than composting the diseased plant, I prefer to wrap it in a Ziplock bag and put it in the trash. To obtain more information about specific pests as well as what to do if non-chemical methods fail to control your problem, check out Prof. Jeffery Hahn’s recommendations on the University of Minnesota Extension website: https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/insects-indoor-plants#using-pesticides-for-pest-management-1580961 Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back The Dakota County Seed Library This month we would like to tell you about the Dakota County Seed Library, located in the Farmington Library. Read on to learn about how this important project contributes to the support of pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices and, most importantly for you, the home gardener, how you can benefit from and contribute to this project. Lana Tullis with Julie Harris, Master Gardeners Dakota County Master Gardeners, in partnership with the Dakota County Library Foundation and Dakota County Natural Resources, maintain the seed library. The Seed Library provides residents and home gardeners with a diverse selection of heirloom and open-pollinated edibles, herbs, flowers and native plant seeds. This free resource is intended to promote the growth of healthy, flavorful food and preserve plant varieties by offering a number of heirloom varieties well suited for our climate but not commonly found in retail centers. These seeds allow you, the home gardener, to protect, preserve and share these valuable seeds. The Seed Library also offers native plant seeds that support pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices. These heirloom seeds are available to the public at the Farmington Library (508 3rd St., Farmington, MN 55024) while supplies last, beginning in March. A library card is not required, however, for the enjoyment of all, please consider limiting your selection to 5 packets per visit. The check out system is easy. Just select your seed packets, scan the QR code or fill out a checkout sheet and drop into the lockbox located near the seed cabinet. Each seed packet includes directions for planting and growing that are seed specific. The Farmington Seed Library was established about 5 years ago and has grown annually with generous donations from local and regional seed suppliers (Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, Albert Lea Select Seeds) along with local gardeners. Note that you can contribute to the seed library . Heirloom seed donations can be left at the Farmington Library. Please provide the original supplier packaging with “packaged for dates” of 2021 or later. Harvested, or saved, seeds from your garden may also be shared through our ‘share’ drawer. Throughout the winter, Master Gardener volunteers sort, label and organize donations for an estimated 3,000 - 4,000 seed packets. Volunteers also maintain inventory throughout the season, conduct demonstration plantings and are available to support your gardening plan. Lana Tullis is the project lead and is supported by Becky Peterson, BJ Hansell, Jackie Pospisil, Cynthia Muller, Patty Sutherland and Janet Schutte. Check out Heirloom and Native seeds at the Farmington Library - automatic renewal and no late fees! More information can be found at www.co.dakota.mn.us/libraries/Using/Seed . Photo Credit: Barbara Svoboda, Farmington Library Librarian (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back Create Frozen Luminarias Marjory Blare, Master Gardeners Frozen luminaries are both fun and beautiful to create. This article will give you suggestions on using materials you may have around the house and in your winter garden to create a frozen luminary. Here are two easy winter crafts that you can do with your little ones! Frozen Luminarias You will need: A large shallow container, at least 3” deep, perhaps 18”x14” or so. Vegetation; weeds, twigs, leaves, evergreen cuttings and so on. A pitcher or bucket to pour water into your container A tea candle or an electric candle in a mason jar. (If you choose a real candle you will also need a long lighter such as you would use for a grill. After making sure the candle is firmly fixed in the bottom of the jar, tip it sideways to light.) Make sure you take pictures of the process! Kids enjoy helping to collect the weeds. Cut them a bit longer than your container. Look for bold contrasting shapes. Colors are a bonus but not required. A monochromatic palette also creates beautiful results. Have your child arrange the various pieces in the shallow container. You might have them choose three long pieces, five medium pieces and seven or more short pieces. Cut them to fit the container. Odd numbers of pieces generally result in a pleasing composition. It can be easy to put too much into the container: you want light to be able to show through the finished composition. Don't worry about having the bottom edge all neat, this part will be buried in the snow. Gently pour about two to three inches of water over the vegetation and press down anything that floats, trying to keep them mostly below the surface. You may want to do this yourself, or make sure if your child spills, you've got a towel under it. Letting it soak indoors for a day before putting it outside can help the vegetation become waterlogged and submerge better. Put the container outdoors in a place where snow and/or other debris can't get into it, or alternately, cover it. Don't move it again until it's frozen solid or you will get cracks and air in it. After it's frozen solid, gently tap the frozen piece out of the container. Set it upright in a snow bank, packing snow at the base to help hold it upright. You can place it so that sun streams through it during the day or wait until dark, then light and place the candle behind your frozen weeds. Stand back and admire! Weeds and Buckets You will need: one or more buckets Vegetation, as above. You can use much larger and longer pieces of vegetation.- Enough water to fill the buckets about 4-5" deep. Place the tallest pieces in first, then medium, and finally the shortest pieces around the outside. You will need enough of the shorter pieces to hold the taller pieces upright, although some graceful arching is very pleasing too. Allow the water to freeze and then gently tap to remove. Place on your front porch or wherever you'd like decorations. Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back Pet-Safe Plant Choices Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener There are a lot of us in Dakota County and beyond who love both plants and our pets. Not all plants are compatible with the dogs and cats who live with us. Read on to find out about safer plant choices to make for our furry family members - and a few plants to keep away! I adopt new houseplants every year around January. Some fresh green helps me through the winter months - whether I’m expanding my collection or filling in for some plants that weren’t a good match for my environment (Master Gardeners get brown plants sometimes, too!) We have beloved dogs and cats in our family, so we want to make sure any plants we have within reach are going to be safe for our pets. If you are gifting houseplants, it is a good idea to keep in mind all of the household residents who can access the plants! I would recommend leaving any plant identification instructions and labels with the plant. This extra care also includes floral bouquets, so watch for danger there (think lilies, tulips and gladiola as examples). Today, I’m offering some houseplant options that are safer for dogs and cats: 1. Hoya Hearts (Hoya kerrii), just in time for Valentines Day! 2. Boston Fern - Many true ferns are nontoxic. This plant loves humidity and is a great option in a bathroom with a shower. Be careful, though, of plants such as “Asparagus Ferns” (Asparagus densiflorus cv sprengeri), which are not true ferns. These plants are actually related to the lily family - and are not safe for pets! 3. Rubber Plant (Peperomia) 4. Money Tree (Pachira aquatica) 5. African Violets (Saintpaulia spp.) 6. Gerbera Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) 7. Bamboo or Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) - but be careful of Sago Palms (Cycas revoluta), these are very toxic to pets! 8. Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis sp.) 9. Holiday cactus (Schlumbergera) make great year-round houseplants 10. Many other succulents, such as Echeveria and Burro’s Tail are safe options as well. Check out this article from the Minnesota State Horticultural Society for more helpful information: A good general rule with all plants is to know your pets and double check plant labels . I have senior dogs that are more inclined to reach for the peanut butter spoon than any old plant, so I feel comfortable keeping riskier plants elevated and check for fallen leaves regularly. Some common plants in my home that are toxic to dogs and cats are Aloe, Amaryllis, Dieffenbachia, English Ivy, Eucalyptus and Philodendron. If you have a new puppy or kitten that can get to and munch plants in the house, you’ll need to adjust accordingly and stick to safer plants. Most plants can cause upset tummies if ingested or chewed on, but the above options will help avoid some more serious consequences. You can search toxicity by plant on the ASPCA’s website here . If your fur-baby has gotten into something they shouldn’t have, time matters. Here are a few resources if you are concerned your pet has ingested, touched, or inhaled poisonous substances - plants or otherwise: The University of Minnesota School of Veterinary Medicine recommends Pet Poison Helpline. - For general information or just checking, their website has tons of useful information including Top Ten Plants Poisonous to Pets . - For emergency help, you can call them at 855-764-7661 or email at info@petpoinhelpline.com ( please note there is an $85 incident fee applicable in this case ) ASPCA® (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals®) also has a poison control line (888) 426-4435 and some additional resources on their animal poison control website . Check out this website from beChewy and Monrovia for some great outdoor container “recipes” filled with pet-safe plants. They also have great tips on gardening around pets. You and your pets will have a shopping list ready when the weather warms up in the spring. Have fun enjoying your plants and healthy pets! Photo credits: Brooke Nesbitt (1,6), Sarah Heidtke (2,4,5), Wiki Creative Commons (3)

< Back Garden Mulch and Jumping Worms There are many things to consider when choosing which type of mulch to use. Aesthetics is one consideration but mulch that will help and not hurt your garden soil is another. This article will help you select the mulch that's right for your garden. Garden Mulch and Jumping Worms There are several options for mulch or soil covering in our gardens. Choices can be either organic, which are compostable materials that improve soil fertility, or inorganic film coverings that can be black, red, green or silver colored. Inorganic film mulches are often sold in rolls. Mulch can improve our plants and gardens in the following ways: · Moisture retention/water conservation · Soil temperature control and stabilization · Weed suppression – weed growth is eliminated when light is not available · Soil borne disease prevention · Improved soil fertility through decomposition of organic mulches left on the top of the soil · Minimize soil erosion and compaction from heavy rains and help with water absorption · Improved landscape appearance with clean and neat mulch between plants In the spring, gardeners have to decide what type(s) of mulches to use. The best mulch application time is after the plants are established, four to six inches tall, and the soil has warmed up enough for active root growth. Mulch applied too soon will delay root development. Be sure not to touch the plants with the mulch. Many plants such as tomatoes are planted only after the soil is sufficiently warm. For tomatoes and other warm season transplanted plants, it is best to apply the mulch immediately to avoid soil splash-up/soil borne diseases. If you are using an inorganic film, you can add a couple of layers of newspapers under the film to help with weed suppression. The newspaper is a safe, compostable layer. Depth for most organic mulches is two to three inches to provide the positive results described above without becoming too heavy. Mulch applied too deep can cause a lack of oxygen to roots, can yellow foliage, and could provide a space for small burrowing animals to feed on plant stems. In fact, be sure that the mulch is close but not touching the stems! Favorite organic mulches include straw with newspaper under it to prevent light to seeds, compost with newspaper under it, brown decomposing paper rolls, dried grass clippings, and mulched leaves. Other possible organic mulches include cocoa bean hulls, pine needles, and crushed corn cobs. Gardeners who choose to use straw should be sure to buy tight bales that do not have too many seeds. Some gardeners have also successfully used burlap bags, and they can be reused year after year. Mulched leaves may need to be reconsidered this year and in the near future due to jumping worm concerns. Jumping worms are a type of angleworm, but they change the soil texture to make it look like coffee grounds. As they move and eat, they strip the soil of nutrients and kill plants. They are recognizable, in part, by their whipping action. They live in leaf litter on the top floor of forests and hatch in the soil in late spring. All gardeners in Dakota County need be aware of them and on the lookout for them. For more detailed information about them, please read the University of Minnesota article titled “Jumping Worms” . Another excellent article is “Coping with Jumping Worms” by Karen Randall. The damage jumping worms can do should cause gardeners to reconsider the types of mulches that they add to their gardens. At this time, there are no known ways to easily rid the soil of jumping worms once they are present. Inorganic mulches may be considered as alternatives to organic mulches. They do not break down and add nutrient value to the soils, but they help with several of the mulch attributes described above. Black, red, green and silver plastics provide weed control, splash-up protection, and some temperature control. Red plastic used with tomatoes is said to improve crop harvest by 20% because it reflects growth-enhancing light waves from the sun. It can be used with newspaper under it to control weeds and help conserve water. The down side of inorganic mulches, in addition to initial cost, is that they add to environmental plastics and may or may not be reused in a future year. Inorganic mulches can be found either in garden centers or in seed catalogs. Mulch can be a great addition to your flower or vegetable garden. However, take care in choosing a type that will benefit your garden. Photo credits: Janice Gestner (1, 3, 4), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back How to Select an Orchid Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you been intrigued about orchids but don’t know where to start or how to keep them alive? Or, are you already an orchid grower but want some expert tips? This article on orchids is the first of three by orchid expert, Paul Wood. The first article provides great advice about how to choose the right orchid for you. Read on to learn how you can begin to be an orchid grower – and lover! Orchids are the most popular potted indoor plants. The most popular type of orchid, by far, is the Phalaenopsis or, as it is commonly called “The Moth Orchid.” Advances in cloning have enabled commercial orchid growers to bring literally millions of Phalaenopsis orchids to market each year. Phalaenopsis plants (or Phal) can be found not only at garden centers, but at big box stores, grocery stores, and even farmer’s’ markets. As with any house plant you buy, success begins with buying a healthy plant that will thrive in the location you picked for it; orchids are no exception. It is the gardening mantra: “Right Plant, Right Place.” Phals are low light orchids and that is one reason they do well as an indoor plant. Here a few tips on how to select a healthy orchid using a Phal as an example. First look at the plant. Are the leaves firm, plump, nice and green, and spot free? Limp leaves or yellowing leaves usually mean the plant is not getting enough moisture and that can mean root problems or that the orchid has not been cared for by the retailer. Next examine the planting medium. Is the orchid in sphagnum moss or bark and is the medium moist? If the medium is really dry it means the orchid has not been tended to by the retailer and that lack of moisture can cause the roots to die. This brings us to selection introspection. If you are a person who tends to over water, look for an orchid that is in bark because it helps drain the extra water. Conversely, if you tend to ignore your indoor plants, consider an orchid that is in sphagnum moss because the moss will retain moisture and you will only have to water maybe once every three weeks. Now take a look at the roots. Orchids sold in retail stores are packaged in ceramic pots, however the orchid itself is in a clear plastic pot inside that pot. Simply tease the plastic pot out and take a look at the roots. A healthy orchid will have lots of green roots, and maybe some slate grey roots. If the roots are mostly brown, put it down! Brown roots are dead roots. Finally, examine the flower stem. Look for stems that are bright green and laden with flowers and lots of buds. The flowers should be alive and the buds plump. Fading flowers means the orchid is nearing the end of its bloom cycle and dried buds are not going produce any new flowers. Phals, with a modicum of care, will easily bloom for several months or more, so your selection goal is to maximize the bloom time. Never buy a Phal that is fully bloomed because you have no idea when the bloom cycle began, so you might only get a few weeks of show before the flowers begin to fade. Selecting an orchid is not that much different than selecting any other potted plant; you want a healthy plant. With the Phals you not only want to select a healthy plant but also a plant that will allow you to fully enjoy their long bloom time. This is achieved by buying buds not blossoms. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! Resources: GrowingBestPhalsPart_I.pdf ( aos.org ) Selecting an Orchid ( aos.org ) Orchids for Everyone: The Most Popular Orchid Genera and How to Identify Them ( psu.edu ) Photo Credits: Troy David Johnston; www.flickr.com (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back History of Minnesota’s Successful Apple Research Breeding Program Apples - one of the joys of autumn! Wandering through apple orchards is a favorite activity for Minnesotans. And at the end of the day, there is the pleasure of eating the apples we have collected in so many different ways. But did you know that the University of Minnesota is one of the leading apple research and breeding programs in the U.S.? Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener When people moving from the east coast settled in Minnesota, they brought with them their apple trees. To their dismay, the trees did not survive the Minnesota winters. This dilemma prompted Horace Greeley, editor of the New York Tribune newspaper, to say, “I would not choose to live in Minnesota because one cannot grow apples there”. Minnesota apple growers rose to the challenge. Peter Gideon, from Excelsior, was the first director of the State Experimental Fruit Breeding Farm. In 1968, he produced “Wealthy.” It is still available, but not easy to find. The incredibly successful apple research program at the University of Minnesota (UMN) is one of the oldest continuous programs in the U.S., beginning in 1878. Samuel Green, the first professor of Horticulture, moved operations from Excelsior to the St. Paul UMN campus. In addition to advancing apple research, Green catalogued the hundreds of apples that amateur growers had been creating across the state since the mid-1800’s. This was one method he used to further a systematic apple breeding research program. Green edited a book, called Apples (available in the public domain, Apples ), that contained a list of apples, written by John S. Harris. Harris was an amateur apple breeder who was also an officer of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. The book described key characteristics of the apples and the apple trees he found on homesteads and farms across the state. These characteristics included growing challenges, tasting notes, and information about the ancestry of the tree. Some included drawings of the apple. Examples from the book: Coates Seedling Size 2; form, round conical; color, yellowish green with light blush on sun side, skin shows many grayish dots; stem, short; cavity, small; calyx, closed; basin, irregular, shallow, corrugated; flesh, fine, greenish white; flavor, pleasant, sub-acid. Season January to March. Originated in Dakota County, Minnesota. Early Glass Size 7 to 8. form, round, angular flat, slightly ridged; color yellowish green, with light spots showing through the skin; flesh, nearly white, a little coarse and loose; flavor, mild acid, not rich; stem, short and stout in a medium irregular broadly russeted cavity; calyx, half open in a medium deep, ribbed basin; core, open. Tree is erect and vigorous. Season, August. Origin, Russia. The first apple developed in the research program, named “Minnehaha,” was released in 1920. According to the National Fruit Collection, Minnehaha had ‘rather soft, coarse flesh with a subacid, slightly sweet flavor”. Minnehaha apple The fourth apple introduced was “Haralson” in 1922. This apple is still widely available and a favorite of many people to this day. Haralson apple With apple research going back over 100 years, one might wonder why there have only been 30 new varieties. Producing a viable, hardy, and good tasting apple does not happen overnight. The process of developing a new apple can take 20 to 30 years. When the research program began, researchers collected parent trees from the wild and from growers in the Northeast and the Midwest. These were crossed and new trees containing the characteristics of the different trees were grown. The successful new tree seedlings were crossed with other apple trees that had favorable characteristics. This process was repeated until the trees produced were hardy and had good growing characteristics and more importantly, produced apples with good taste, texture, and appearance. The apple research program in Minnesota is only one of three in the U.S. The other two programs are at Cornell University in New York state and Washington State University. Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available like Beacon, Redwell, Prairie Spy, Fireside, Honeygold, and State Fair . This year, 2022, the UMN’s program released Triumph® . Trees are available in limited quantities and we won’t likely see these apples available widely before 2025. Triumph apple If you’d like to learn more, the Minnesota Historical Society has additional information on the history of growing apple trees in an article titled, “Minnesota Apple Trees” at http://collections.mnhs.org . References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/100-years-university-minnesota-apple-breeding https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples/varieties Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 4, 5), Samuel Green Apples book (2, 3)

< Back Snowdrops for the Early Spring Garden Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Are you a gardener that loves to have flowering plants staggered throughout the growing season? Then perhaps you should consider planting snowdrops in your yard. They are the first spring bulb to bloom and they are known to pop up amongst the snow melt. They usually bloom before larger daffodils and tulips. Snowdrops (galanthus spp) are a member of the amaryllis family. However, they are a small, delicate-looking, single bloom white bell-shaped flower with several green upright leaves. They are native to Southern Europe and Asia Minor and are found in woodlands or wet, alpine grasslands of cool mountainous regions. Most are hardy in Zone 5 but some varieties range to Zone 2. The common variety for Minnesota is 3 to 6 inches tall. Of note, Giant snowdrops are not as hardy (Zones 4/5). Where to Plant Snowdrops should be planted in groups of up to 25 to be really seen. Plant them under deciduous trees or shrubs or near walkways where they can be visible in early spring when the snow is melting. They can even be planted in your grass but then you shouldn’t mow over them until 6 weeks after blooming. They go well combined with Siberian Squill, early small Daffodils, Winter Aconte, and Glory of the Snow. Some people also plant them in indoor containers and force them to bloom. How to Plant Plant them 3 inches apart and 3 inches deep in rich, well-drained soil in early fall when the night temperatures are in the 40s or 50s. Consider fertilizing them in the spring when shoots first appear. Pros and Cons Pros: First to bloom in Spring gets you looking forward to the growing season. They do not have any significant insect or disease issues and are deer resistant like daffodils. Cons: Snowdrops are poisonous if ingested by pets or children. To avoid skin irritations, gardeners should wear gloves when handling them. Sources: University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/snowdrops-galanthus-spp/ Penn State Extension: https://extension.psu.edu/snowdrops Photo Credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin (1,2,3)