< Back A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. I moved back to Minnesota in the fall of 2018; I had not lived here since I was 6 years old. I was excited to be closer to family and to finally, put down some roots. My husband I had built a house and, over the winter, dreamed about how we would fill our blank landscape in the spring. In early May, I began shopping around at local nurseries and was drawn to and purchased a few flowering crabapple trees. I spent the rest of the month filling in the garden and by June, I was able to sit back and enjoy a complete yard. In early July, it was time to weed the garden. As I worked along the base of one of my crabapple trees, I bumped the trunk, which dislodged several bugs that I’d never seen before. Under closer examination, I realized that my crabapple had been taken over by these bugs. The Japanese Beetles had found my tree and were heavily at work, eating the once beautiful leaves. Japanese Beetles are an invasive species that feed on the leaves, flowers and fruits of approximately 300 different types of plants. They are around one-half inch long and have a metallic green head and thorax with copper-brown wing covers. Like all pests, Japanese Beetles find some plants more attractive than others. Some of the more susceptible plants include: Crab Apple Roses Grapes Linden Cherry Plum Apple Birch Elm Raspberry Currant Basil Virginia Creeper Hollyhock Marigold Corn Silks Soybean Adult Japanese Beetles typically arrive in our gardens at the end of June or early July and continue to feed on leaves through the month of August. While the beetles feed, they emit a specific odor that attracts more beetles to the plant or tree. The damage caused by the beetles varies but the pattern remains the same. Japanese Beetles “skeletonize” the leaves which means that they feed on the plant tissue between the veins, creating a lace appearance. An established, healthy plant can withstand heavy feeding with only cosmetic damage done to the leaves, while younger, unhealthy plants may experience restricted growth or possibly death if the feeding is significant. During this time, the beetles are also mating. Females will burrow a few inches into the soil, several times during the summer, to lay a total of approximately 60 eggs over the season. The eggs hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on the roots of grass. Dryer soil conditions can help make the soil less favorable and may reduce the amount of new Japanese Beetles the following year. As temperatures begin to cool, the grubs burrow deeper into the soil to overwinter until the following spring. As temperatures rise, the grubs move closer to the surface of the soil and feed on the grass roots until they reach their adult phase. There are many ways that we can minimize the damage caused to our plants by Japanese Beetles. Here are some control options: Netting You can cover smaller plants with cheese cloth or other fine netting to prevent access to the leaves. This will allow light and rain to filter through without exposing the leaves to the pest Manual Hand picking or shaking Japanese Beetles off the plants into a bucket of soapy water. While laborious, this is effective, especially if done in the early morning or in the evening when the beetles are sluggish. Chemical If you visit your local nursery, you will find a variety of chemical options that are designed to minimize the presence of Japanese Beetles. Remember to read the label – it’s the law! Follow best practices: Do not spray the plant on a windy day Wear long sleeves, pants, protective eye wear and gloves Wear a face mask to prevent inhalation Ensure that the chemical will not harm beneficial insects in your garden Traps Commercial traps are readily available in many stores; however, this method is not recommended or effective. Traps may attract more beetles than are actually caught. Traps put other plants at risk that the beetles may have avoided in the past. Plant Selection Consider adding plants to your garden that are not attractive to Japanese Beetles: Boxwood Clematis Chrysanthemum Conifers (e.g., arborvitae, spruce, fir, pine) Daylily Geranium Gingko Japanese Tree Lilac Forsythia Common Lilac Magnolia Red and Silver Maple Oak White Poplar Redbud Rhododendron Yew My first summer back in Minnesota left me with a lot of frustration, and I spent some of the winter months trying to understand how to prevent these pests from entering my garden in the upcoming spring. I learned a lot, but mostly, acceptance. As gardeners, pests, whether welcome or not, are part of the package, part of the experience that makes what we do always challenging, always an adventure. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles#non-chemical-management-options-1591111 https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dont-fall-japanese-beetle-trapping-trap Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Picking the Perfect Jack-O-Lantern Pumpkin Linda Stein, Master Gardener Picking out and carving pumpkins is a favorite family activity in October. Read on for tips about how to choose and carve your pumpkins and what to do with all those seeds. As October arrives, many children and their families are thinking about Halloween. If your family is like mine, pumpkin carving is an essential part of that event. You can be overwhelmed looking at the vats full of pumpkins at the grocery store or the rows and rows of pumpkins in your nearby pumpkin patch. So , when should you pick your pumpkin and what should you look for in the myriad of options? Pumpkins generally last 8 to 12 weeks after they are picked. However, they will start to wilt within 5 to 10 days after they are hollowed out and carved. So , plan accordingly. How to Pick the Perfect Pumpkin Cooking vs carving - Pumpkins used for cooking or for pie making look similar to those chosen to carve into Jack-O-Lanterns. However, there are differences. These pumpkins are referred to as pie pumpkins or sugar pumpkins. They are generally smaller, denser and darker in color. Their flesh is less stringy and sweeter. Larger pumpkins used for carving or decorating are generally known as field pumpkins and besides being larger in size, also have a watery, stringy flesh which doesn’t work as well for cooking. What to look for in a carving pumpkin 1. Color- Color is not an indication of quality of pumpkin. However, you should avoid a pumpkin with blemishes, cracks, splits or soft spots. 2. Stem - Make sure your pumpkin has at least a 1-2 inch stem. If the stem is cut down too low the pumpkin will decay quickly or may already be decaying. And make sure the stem is firm and bright colored. If not the pumpkin might have been picked and stored for an extended period of time. Since it is important to retain the stem, make sure that you don’t risk breaking it off by carrying the pumpkin by the stem. 3. Scratch test - Test for the maturity of a pumpkin by gently pressing your fingernail into the rind. A mature pumpkin will resist scratching. If the surface is easily penetrated, the pumpkin was picked too early and will end up rotting. 4. Poke test - Gently squeeze or press your fingers into the fruit. Pay close attention to the blossom end, or bottom, and around the stem. A fresh pumpkin should be solid to the touch. 5. Tap Test - Your pumpkin should sound slightly hollow when tapped gently. 6. Weight - You want to pick a pumpkin that is heavy. However, a very heavy pumpkin may indicate thicker walls which will be more difficult to carve. Carving Since the pumpkin will start to wilt in about 5 to 10 days, think about carving your pumpkin upside down by hollowing it out from the bottom. That way as the pumpkin begins to wilt, the flesh won’t sink in from the top. If the walls are so thick that they are difficult to carve, you can shave the walls on the inside. Storing Your Jack-O-Lantern should be stored in cooler conditions but avoid frost. Some sources recommend wiping the fruit off with a solution of bleach water to reduce rot and decay. What About Those Seeds? Another family tradition is roasting the seeds collected from the inside of the pumpkin you’re carving. Pumpkin seeds are an excellent source of protein, unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants, dietary fiber, magnesium and Vitamin K. But beware, they are also high in calories. In addition to enjoying them as a snack, WebMD also suggests the following uses: • Add them to smoothies • Mix them into granola, yogurt, or cereal • Use them to add some extra crunch to a salad • Garnish any meal, like soups, chicken dishes, or pastas • Blend them with other ingredients in a dip like hummus, pesto, or guacamole • Bake them into cookies and breads Happy picking, carving and Halloween! References https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/vegetables/how-to-pick-the-perfect-pumpkin.html https://extension.umn.edu/news/scoop-pumpkins-5-fun-fall-facts https://blogs.extension.iastate.edu/answerline/2018/10/04/pick-the-best-pumpkin/ https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-pumpkin-seeds Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Sarah Heidtke (2, 3)

< Back May - Container Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. This article will help you plan your container garden. Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. So, what should you think about as you consider creating a container garden? Selecting a Container A container can be anything that can hold the soil and plants. However, it is preferable that the container have a drainage hole so the plants’ root systems aren’t sitting in water. If you are using a pot without drainage holes, consider shoreline plants since they like wet soil. In selecting your container consider eye appeal, convenient and cost. Eye Appeal: Appearance is, of course, important as you select containers for your plants. If you really like a decorative planter that doesn’t have a drainage hole, consider double potting - placing a pot with drainage hole and a saucer inside the decorative plant. Impact on plants: You do want to consider how the pot you are using will impact the plants you intend to place in those containers. When purchasing a pot or planter, take into consideration the type of plant you plan on placing in the pot and the impact on the care required. Consider what the pot is made of, the size of the pot and its color. Plastic pots are generally less costly. They are also lighter in weight. This can be of particular importance if you will be planting a larger plant. Also consider that plastic pots hold moisture and therefore the plants don’t need to be watered as frequently. You may prefer clay pots. Clay pots are usually more costly and are definitely heavier than plastic pots. Be aware that, because they are porous, the soil in clay pots dry out more quickly. The color of the pot also can have an impact on your plant. Darker planters absorb heat so, if the pot will be in direct sunlight the soil will dry out faster. Also think about the type of plant - is it one that likes heat or will wither due to the warmer environment in the dark pot? Selecting Soil All soil is not the same. Potting soil should be used in most container gardening. It includes ingredients such as plant food, peat moss, ground pine bark, and either perlite or vermiculite and a wetting agent added to keep the mix from drying out. Garden soil is predominantly soil, is denser and doesn’t drain as readily as potting soil. For plants such as cacti purchase soil specifically designed for those plants. Selecting Plants Consider the amount of sun when selecting the plants to insert in your container. If the plant is said to require full sun, that means it needs at least eight hours of sun. To allow your indoor plant to receive the most sunlight place near a south facing window. Plants that require shade, should be placed in a more protected location. Also consider the size of the container for a particular plant. Check to see if the plant prefers to have a lot of space for its root system or if it prefers a tighter space. Consider putting multiple plants in the same container. If you do choose to do this, make sure all the plants require the same type of growing environment including the same amount of sun and water. As for design - you may have heard the saying that containers should contain a “thriller, spiller and filler.” And that’s because it usually works. Include a tall, showy “thriller,” one or more plants that drape over the side of the pot (“spiller”), and one or more medium sized anchor plants in the middle (“filler”) when designing your container. Watering and Fertilizing Requirements Check on the requirements of the plant that you have selected. Then, water plants on their schedule, not yours. Overwatering is more frequently a problem than under watering. Signs of overwatering include: yellow or brown limp or droopy leaves and/or the overall plant looks wilted, limited new growth, algae or mold on the soil, rotted or stunted roots. If your soil is dried out, the plant looks wilted and/or the tips of the leaves appear dried out and brown it may indicate that your plant needs more water. Remember that one of the ingredients in potting soil is fertilizer. So don’t fertilize the plant immediately. When ready to fertilize follow the instructions for the fertilizer you purchase. Don’t over fertilize and note that plants don’t grow as rigorously during winter. So, plants require little or no fertilizer during winter months. Be Creative Have fun with your container gardening. It allows you to express your creativity and will bring you tremendous beauty whether inside your house, on your balcony or in your yard. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1, 4), Linda Stein (2, 3, 5)

< Back Cooking with Frozen Vegetables (And a St. Patrick’s Day Nod) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s not too early to order seeds for your vegetable garden this summer but first, you need to use up all those vegetables left over from last summer that are sitting in your freezer. Joy Johnson’s Minestrone soup will help you do just that. Add some Irish soda bread for a great St. Patrick’s Day meal. The ground is still frozen in Dakota County and I don’t have anything growing in my garden. However, I have received some seed catalogs already and I’ve even seen a rack of seed packets for sale at the store. You may be thinking about starting some vegetable plants early indoors. It’s always so fun to see the little seedlings sprout. I just realized that if I’m going to grow more vegetables this year, I need to clean out my freezer and use all the ones I froze last year. I have been using my frozen produce all winter long, see my past recipes! But I do still have a variety of veggies in my freezer. I like to cook in large batches so I have food to share with other family members, or just so I don’t have to cook for a few days, and we can live on leftovers. I have a recipe that I’ve been making for years that uses my frozen veggie stash and makes plenty to share. A bonus – everyone who has eaten it has loved it. The recipe is flexible, so if you don’t have one of the veggies, or you want to add in something that is not listed, feel free to experiment. This recipe is from The Saint Paul Farmers Market Produce Cookbook. Minestrone Soup 6 cups beef broth 1 (15 oz.) can great northern, cannellini or lima beans 1 large potato, peeled and dices 2 carrots, sliced 2 ribs celery, sliced 1 white or yellow onion, chopped 1 small green pepper, chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 1 ½ cups green cabbage, chopped 1 cup zucchini, cubed 1 cup green beans, cut in 1-inch lengths ½ lb. spinach or Swiss chard, chopped 3 cups Italian plum tomatoes, chopped ½ cup small shell macaroni or other pasta, uncooked ½ tsp each dried oregano and rosemary (or 1 tsp. each, fresh or frozen, chopped) 1 tsp dried basil (or 2 tsp fresh or frozen chopped) 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper Grated Parmesan cheese In a large stockpot, bring beef broth to a boil. Add cannellini beans, potato, carrots and celery. Simmer 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a skillet and sauté onion, garlic and green pepper for 5 minutes. (If using frozen peppers, no need to sauté). Add to broth mixture and simmer another 15 minutes. Add cabbage, zucchini, green beans, and spinach or Swiss chard. Simmer 10 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes, pasta, oregano, rosemary, basil, salt and pepper. Simmer another 15 minutes or until pasta is cooked. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. Makes 15 servings. A bread that goes well with Minestrone, and gives a nod to Saint Patrick’s Day, is Irish Soda Bread. The recipe that I’m sharing with you here is an authentic Irish recipe. My elderly neighbor who is 100% Irish has verified that it is a true Irish soda bread because it has raisins and caraway seeds. Irish Soda Bread 3 ½ cups flour 2/3 cup sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp baking powder 1 ½ cup raisins Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. In a separate bowl mix together these wet ingredients: 1 1/3 cups buttermilk 2 eggs beaten 4 Tbsp melted butter ½ tsp vanilla 1 Tbsp vanilla 1 Tbsp carraway seeds Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix until well blended. Grease and flour baking dish. I use an actual Irish soda bread pan, it’s like a 9” round cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60 minutes. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons (1) & Flickr (2)

< Back Hang on to Summer – Salads (and More) By Joy Johnson, Master Gardener As fall harvest season arrives, the challenge is to create or try new recipes to fully appreciate the array of tastes available to us. As always, Master Gardener Joy Johnson is ready with recipes, this time, salads that help us to hang on to summer. And just to make sure that you use the abundant apple crop available to us now, she provides a scrumptious apple-centered dessert bar. Let your mouth water while reading these delicious recipes. Happy days are here again, the skies above are clear again, let us sing a song of cheer again, happy days are here again! As fall harvest season approaches, I think of those old song lyrics because harvest time comes around every year and it’s always fun, exciting, involves lots of work, and often puts our creativity to the test when the broccoli, kale, cabbage and apples challenge us with, “how are you going to make use of us in a new way this year?” Yes, my veggies talk to me. At times they can be a bit snarky. Since September tends to be quite hot and dry, I am not thinking of fall soups or hot casseroles pulled steaming from the oven, fogging your glasses, and making your mascara run. I’m still in salad mode. My motto is, “if you can hear crickets, it’s still summer!” Here are two delicious salad recipes that use apples, peppers, cabbage, snow peas, broccoli, and green onions to assist you with answering the challenge to make tasty, creative dishes from your abundant garden produce. If the rabbits ate your snow peas (like they did to mine, right through the fence!), you are still the salad queen even if you purchase ingredients at a farmer’s market or grocery store. Chicken, Apple and Cabbage Salad Ingredients: Applesauce-Soy Vinaigrette (recipe below) 3 large apples, cut into bite sized pieces 6 cups thinly sliced green cabbage (can also use Napa) 1 cup very thinly sliced red cabbage 1 yellow bell pepper, thinly sliced 2 cups snow peas, trimmed and cut in half if they are big 4 cups shredded or cubed cooked chicken (I use a rotisserie chicken from the grocery store) Applesauce-Soy Vinaigrette: Whisk together 1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce (which of course you’ve already made from your early apples), 3 TBSP soy sauce, 3 TBSP apple cider vinegar, 2 TBSP light olive oil, 2 TBSP dark sesame oil and 1 Tsp grated fresh ginger in a small bowl. Makes about 1 cup. 1) Prepare Apple-Soy Vinaigrette and place about 4 TBSP in a medium bowl. Core and cut up apples into bite sized pieces and toss in vinaigrette to coat (this will help prevent the apples from browning). 2) Combine green cabbage, red cabbage, bell pepper and snow peas in a large serving bowl or platter. Add remaining vinaigrette, tossing to coat. Add apples and chicken and gently toss. Broccoli-Apple Salad Ingredients: 6 cups broccoli florets 6 TBSP Mayonnaise 6 TBSP plain yogurt (you can also use sour cream or a mix of the two) 2 TBSP sugar 2 TBSP hot sauce ½ tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper 6 medium apples 3 green onions 1 medium hot banana pepper cut into tiny cubes (can use any hot pepper or leave this out if you’re not into heat) 2/3 cup dried cranberries 2/3 cup toasted sunflower seeds 1) Blanch broccoli in boiling water for 1-2 minutes until bright green. Drain and rinse with cool water. Set aside. 2) Combine mayonnaise, yogurt, sugar, hot sauce, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. 3) Core and chop apples; add to mayonnaise mixture. 4) Stir in broccoli, green onions, cranberries, and sunflower seeds; toss to coat and serve or refrigerate until serving time. Pecan Apple Bars These nutty apple bars are a favorite with everyone I’ve served them to. At the last party, I’d cut the bars into large pieces knowing that these are so good, everyone would want a large piece. The hostess cut them into smaller pieces thinking there wouldn’t be enough to go around. I was fine with that; it was her buffet after all. However, I did notice that almost everyone went back for another bar or two! Ingredients: 4 apples – I used Pizzaz and Honeycrisp ½ cup sugar, divided 1 TBSP Cornstarch 1 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp lemon juice 2 cups flour 1/3 cups finely chopped pecans (you can also use walnuts or a combination) 1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1 cup butter, melted 1) Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly butter an 8- or 9-inch baking pan. 2) Peel, core and chop apples into small pieces, place in a large bowl. Stir in ¼ cup sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, and lemon juice. Set aside. 3) Combine remining ¼ cup sugar, flour, pecans, brown sugar, and butter in a large bowl Stir until well blended. Transfer 2/3 of this mixture to the prepared baking dish and press into the bottom evenly. 4) Bake 15 minutes. 5) Remove baking dish from oven and spoon apple mixture and all the liquid evenly over the baked, hot crust. Sprinkle evenly with the remaining 1/3 of the crust mixture. 6) Bake 35 minutes or until golden brown. 7) Cool in pan on a wire rack. Cut into squares. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Glorious Amaryllis Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with large, stunning blooms that can be grown as a houseplant year-round. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with blooms averaging 4 to 10 inches and can even be grown as a houseplant year around. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. My summer flowers are faded with the first frosts of fall, and the spring bulbs are planted and resting before their show in a few months. It’s about this time of year that I start to really think about Amaryllis. Amaryllis bulbs and blooms start appearing more frequently in stores with their holiday shades of red, pink, white and more - ready to keep us flower gardeners happy with blooms inside while the cold Minnesota weather settles in. Amaryllis are native to warmer climates. The bulbs we generally see for purchase as houseplants in our part of the world are hybrids of the genus Hippeastrum , and are native to Central and South America. Let’s talk about how to grow these beauties here in Minnesota. Growing Amaryllis Amaryllis grow best in narrow containers - about 1 inch diameter wider than the largest part of the bulb, and twice as tall. Soil should be able to drain freely from container - Amaryllis do not like to sit in water and can rot if left too wet. One third to one half of the bulb should still be visible above the soil, and the bulb should sit up over the edge of the container. Water thoroughly after planting and allow the water to drain. Then water only when the top 2 inches of soil are dry to the touch. Place the pot on a saucer in a sunny window until flower buds begin to open, then move the plant out of direct sunlight. Keep Your Amaryllis Plant Healthy and Flowering for Years Amaryllis can be grown actively all year, and, with some care, will continue to rebloom. Once the flowers are finished blooming, snip them off so the plant doesn’t put energy into creating seed pods. Let the green foliage continue to have sunlight so the bulb can store energy through photosynthesis. Unlike some bulbs, Amaryllis does not require a dormant period in order to bloom and rebloom. However, you can try to time blooms by allowing the plant to go dormant in a cool, dry, dark location for 8 to12 weeks without water or feeding. Then bring the plant out into a sunny place and resume normal watering and fertilizing with a high phosphorus content (about half the strength the package recommendation) and expect blooms in 4 to 6 weeks. Potted Amaryllis can also be taken outside in Minnesota during warmer months. They will need to gradually spend time outside to acclimate to the outdoors, and then find a location with at least six hours of sun. Just set the pot out in a sunny spot, or stick the whole pot into the ground in the garden. Amaryllis will not survive frost or freezing temperatures, so they will need to be brought back inside before cold temperatures arrive. It is not necessary to repot Amaryllis plants from season to season. In fact, they prefer to be somewhat potbound for the best blooms. The best time to repot Amaryllis plants is after they’ve gone through a dormant period, and then they will likely only need to be repotted with fresh sterile soil about every 3-4 years. For more information on Amaryllis, and many more houseplants, check out the University of Minnesota - Extension website . Happy Growing! Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4), University of Minnesota Extension (5, 6)

< Back Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a small tree to add to your landscape? Consider the Pagoda Dogwood, it grows quickly and offers delicious berries for the birds in late summer. Read more about this attractive tree here. January is a time for planning. Where to put the annuals can be figured out on the fly. Perennial forbs take a bit of thought but you can dig most of them up if you want to move them next year. However, tree placement should be very carefully considered. What looks good now will be there years from now and may not look so good. Short of a chainsaw massacre, you’ll be stuck with the ill-considered tree. Then, of course, you have to consider size. Do you really want a 90-foot white oak in your 12 x 16 courtyard? Fortunately, if you are looking for a small tree, you have many excellent choices, one of which is the Pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) or alternate-leaved dogwood. This beauty is a common understory tree which grows rapidly as a youngster, adding a new tier of branches each season. Pagoda dogwood is native to northeastern North America and is found in central and southern Minnesota, Iowa and all the way down to the Ozarks. It does best in well-drained soils and will have difficulty in clay or compacted soils. In the wild it is found in moist woodlands so it is best to plant it where it is protected from the hot afternoon sun. Observing this caveat, it will grow in full sun if there is sufficient moisture, but it will do better in part to near-full shade. One of its most compelling features is the berries produced in late summer, greatly loved by the birds. For good fruit-set, however two separate trees are needed. After a time, some trunks will suddenly die and turn orange. Quick rejuvenation is possible by pruning away the dead trunk. Select a vigorous new shoot from the sprouts that usually emerge quickly. Pagoda dogwood’s horizontal tiers of branches give the tree its name and render it a charming ornamental at the corner of the house or the edger of a wooded landscape. It is great as a bird garden plant. These lovely branches are festooned with clusters of creamy white blooms in the late spring. The resulting berries are bluish black and ripen in late summer, providing welcome nourishment to a variety of songbirds. Come fall, the leaves will turn a striking yellow to burgundy. The popularity of this showy ornamental has been enhanced by the development of a number of great cultivars. You might check your local nursery this spring for such attractive varieties as “Pistachio”, “French Vanilla”, “Gold Bullion” or “Big Chocolate Chip”. Whichever you choose, keep it well-watered and mulched that first year and you’ll soon have a great addition to your landscape! Photo credits: Morton Arboretum (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Caring for Indoor Plants with Young Children Kristin Beardsley Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. Click here to discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. In this article, discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants. DO Materials: Place to work, can be a child-sized table, coffee table, plant stand, or the floor. Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Tray to carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Atomizer or spray bottle Cloth to catch drips Small watering can Several indoor plants Small brush and dustpan for clean-up (optional) Presentation Invite the child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left-handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Choose a plant and bring it to the workspace. It’s nice to tell the child what the plant is called or look at the tag if the plant is labeled. “Let’s mist the leaves. First, I will mist, then you can.” Pick up the atomizer, rest the atomizer on your non-dominant hand as you slowly place your fingers to mist. Hold the handle with your thumb and middle finger, then place your pointer finger on the top. Your pointer finger will push down to mist, keep your hands in this position to show your child a way they can be successful. This grip will help your child to strengthen their hand for holding pencils for writing. I model this, but my daughter isn’t able to do it yet, so she puts the atomizer on the table and pushes down with her palm. A spray bottle is also an easier option for younger children. Discuss how much water the plant needs and decide if it needs to be watered by feeling for moisture in the soil with a finger. Go fill the watering can. Show the child how to carry the watering can with one hand on the handle and one holding the cloth on the spout to decrease spills. When you go to water the cloth can be lowered and then can come back up to catch drips. Look for any spills and dry with the cloth and invite the child to water. Invite the child to water as many plants as they like and show them how to put everything away when they are done. You might need a small brush and dustpan to pick up any spilled soil. Extension for a Younger Child: Leaf Dusting It might be nice to introduce leaf dusting first as an introduction to caring for indoor plants, and it is accessible for a younger child. It feels great to see a dusty leaf look clean and shiny again. Choose a special cloth to be the designated leaf duster or make a leaf duster out of wool with a little handle, and choose a dish for the duster to sit in. When you go to present leaf dusting to your child bring the duster and plant to a workspace. Place one hand under the leaf and show how to dust the leaf from base to tip with 2-3 strokes. Dust a few leaves and then invite the child to dust. Only plants with smooth leaves can be dusted. Extension for an Older Child: Pruning Older children can also prune dead leaves while caring for indoor plants. Keep a small child size pruner in a dish. Show how to safely open the pruner and explain how we never touch the blade; it is very sharp. Locate and prune dead leaves and place them in the dish. Safely close the pruner before setting it down. Discard the leaves in the dish. Things to Consider when Presenting Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. Plants may be overwatered and over pruned. Have a big towel ready for spills and only offer plants that you are okay getting a fun new look. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. Focusing on your hands will help the child to be successful. Avoid praising the child and instead use phrases that acknowledge what they have achieved, like “You watered the plant,” when appropriate. Read Create a book for your child with all the plants in your home. Include the plants common name, scientific name, and how much water and light it needs. To assist a child who is not yet reading include a photo of each plant along with symbols to represent water and sun needs. Then place a sweet little tag with each plant including the name and symbols for how much water and sun it needs. This will allow your developing child to find a proper location for the plant to thrive and water it appropriately.

< Back Green Beans for the Holidays – Should You Plant Pole or Bush Green Beans Next Year? Are you one of the 20 million people who enjoyed green bean casserole for Thanksgiving dinner? If you plant green beans in your garden this summer, you can preserve and use your home-grown green beans in your next Thanksgiving meal. In this article, you will learn more about your green bean planting options and how to choose which beans to grow and enjoy. By Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Many of us choose to adorn our holiday tables with the classic Green Bean Casserole (French cut green beans, fried onions, and mushroom soup). For trivia types, this casserole was first created in 1955 by Dorcas Reilly while employed at the Campbell Soup Company. As of 2020, Campbells estimated that approximately 20 million U. S. Thanksgiving dinners include this dish each year. That’s a lot of beans! And a reason to contemplate growing green beans next gardening season and then freezing them for the holiday season. Read more to determine if you should plant the Pole or Bush type green beans. Green Beans are also referred to as Snap Beans or String Beans and are a member of the wax bean family. And not to confuse people, but string beans can also be yellow, red, striped, and even purple (the purple disappears when cooked)! Growing green beans in your garden has many benefits; to name a few: · Easy to grow especially for young children as the larger seed size makes it easier to plant and the long green bean makes it easier for them to see to harvest; · Excellent companion plant to tomatoes as they put nitrogen back into the soil; · Can be grown in smaller spaces but require full sun; and · Excellent source of nutrition (low in calories, high in antioxidants including Vitamin C and fiber). In general, there are two types of these beans for gardeners to consider: Pole vs. Bush beans. Pole Beans, simply put, are vining plants which must be supported by a trellis, pole, or fence. They can grow up to 6 to 7 feet long. Bush beans are low growing plants that grow 1 to 2 feet tall only. So which type is better to plant: Advantages of Bush Beans: · No trellis or pole is required; · Great for compacted, raised beds; · Have a shorter production time (usually harvest within 50 to 55 days vs. 55 to 65 days for pole beans) · Produce all their beans within a short time (2 to 3 weeks) which is great for freezing and can stagger planting times for additional harvests Advantages of Pole Beans: · More productive than bush beans (in a 10-foot row space, pole beans can yield 8 pounds of produce compared to bush beans at 4 to 5 pounds) · Have a longer harvest window if you prefer to eat them fresh (continually harvest them). · Less susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew · Have a better flavor than bush beans (sweeter and starchier) · Easier to harvest (gives your back a break) · Excellent companion plant to corn and squash/cucumber or with a teepee system you can plant lettuce, parsley, or radishes in the center. So, while you are enjoying your holiday feast, remember to dream about the upcoming planting season and decide if you are going to plant pole vs. bush string beans next year! Sources: · Green Bean Casserole, Wikipedia.org · WebMD Health Benefits of Green Beans. November 28, 2022 · JohnnySeeds.com About Pole Beans · Iowa State Extension and Outreach, Which is more productive, bush or pole green beans? Photo credits: www.Flickr.com (1,2), Davidbach.net , All Creative Commons (3)

< Back Strawberry Asparagus Salad and a Challenge! Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s July and some of your vegetables and fruit are ripe for picking – yay! Two of these early products are asparagus and strawberries. And, luckily, they go together in a delicious salad. Read Joy Johnson’s article for an easy recipe. And, keep reading for a more difficult recipe for Strawberry Cucumber bread. If you’re up for the challenge, you will be rewarded with a delicious treat! Did you know that asparagus and strawberries go well together in two ways? One way is to do companion plantings with groups of asparagus inter-mixed with strawberry plants. Because the asparagus grows tall and starts sprouting out of the ground ahead of the strawberry plants, you can grow them together and harvest them at nearly the same time. The second way is to eat them together. Their flavors are complimentary and make a fresh summer salad. Here is a very simple recipe that pulls together in no time. You can jazz it up by adding sliced almonds, poppy seeds, goat cheese or crumbled feta or blue cheese. I didn’t have those ingredients on hand, so I’m keeping it simple tonight! Strawberry Asparagus Salad Ingredients: 2 cups asparagus, cut in pieces and blanched 2 cups strawberries, sliced Dressing: ¼ cup lemon juice 2 TBSP vegetable oil. 2 TBSP honey Directions: Toss the asparagus and strawberries together in a bowl. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the dressing ingredients and mix well. Pour dressing over salad and toss. Chill before serving. Strawberry Cucumber Bread – If You Like a Challenge! This colorful bread can be served at breakfast or as a dessert or in the middle of the day with a cup of tea or coffee. I came across this recipe when I googled “spring breads”. It has two of my favorite foods in it: strawberries and cucumbers, which I thought was an interesting combination for a quick bread. It was very challenging to make! First, I had to clarify butter. I didn’t start with a small enough pan, so when I had to scrape off the butter foam without dipping my spoon into the clear layer underneath, that wasn’t going to work. So, I dumped it into a smaller pan, which completely negated the instruction to not stir it or disturb the layers in any way. I gently scraped off the foam after waiting an extra hour with the pan over really low heat, and I figured it would re-layer itself if I waited long enough. Then I was supposed to separate the clarified butter from the water, which I could do by pouring it off. Hmm, it all looked the same to me. So, I went back to my computer to get some work done (that I get paid for) and left the pot on very low heat for another hour. When I came back into the kitchen, there was the butter - thick and smooth, but definitely not clear. I scooped it out of the pot so I could measure it and discovered about a teaspoon of water underneath. I did pour that off. I used this butter in the recipe, but I can’t say if it met the definition of ‘clarified’. The next challenge was the baking. It flowed over my bread pan and all over the oven floor. I scraped the bottom rack and the bottom of the oven clean as soon as I discovered it, so it wouldn’t start on fire, which was after about an hour of baking. The bread should have been done at that point. But it wasn’t even close with the hot batter still running over the side of the pan. So, I covered it with a tent of foil in an effort to get the inside baked and not brown the outside any further. I checked it every 15 minutes. It still wasn’t done and was still volcano-ing onto the oven floor. It ended up in the oven for an extra 40 minutes (at least, I went out to rake the lawn!) and then I gave up and took it out. I put it in the microwave for 2 ½ minutes on high to get the inside cooked. The next challenge was getting it out of the bread pan. I let it cool on a cooling rack until it was just warm. I had greased and floured the pan before filling it. I gently went around the edge with a butter knife, sawing through the dark parts where the batter had flowed over the pan. Tipped it over - no movement. I went around the pan with the knife again, twice, then turned it on one side and worked on that side, turned it over to the other side and worked on that side. It finally came free in one piece! Of course, I sliced it and ate a piece right away. It was delicious , especially when I hit a pocket of the strawberry preserves, but I’m not sure it was worth all the effort! Strawberry Cucumber Bread (from Bon Appetite Magazine) modified slightly by me Ingredients: ½ cup strawberry preserves 1 T cornstarch 1T fresh lemon juice ½ c sort of clarified butter, room temp 1 c sugar 2 large eggs 1t vanilla extract ¼ t almond extract 2c all -purpose flour 1 t baking powder ½ t baking soda ½ t salt 2 cups grated and well drained cucumber ½ c chopped walnuts ½ c sliced fresh strawberries, divided Instructions: In a small saucepan, cook strawberry preserves, cornstarch, and lemon juice over medium heat until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Let cool completely. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with baking spray and sprinkle with flour. In a bowl, beat clarified butter and sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in extracts. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating just until combined. Stir in cucumber, walnuts, and ¼ cup (42.5 grams) sliced strawberries. Spoon half of batter into prepared pan; top with strawberry preserve mixture. Add remaining batter, and top with remaining ¼ cup (42.5 grams) strawberry slices. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan and let cool completely on a wire rack. Wrap and store at room temperature for up to 1 week. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back What’s the Buzz about Bee Lawns? Marjory Blare, Master Gardener ​ You may have heard about bee lawns on the news or from a friend or at a county park. And, you may be wondering what that is and why you might want to plant one in your yard. Read this article about bee lawns to help you decide if planting one is right for you. Annual Red Clover Did you know that about 1/3 of the plant-based foods that humans eat are insect pollinated? But pollinators are in trouble due to habitat loss, pesticides and parasites. Butterflies, wasps, flies, soldier beetles, and moths are also in jeopardy. A pollinator lawn provides the high-quality nutrition that pollinators need to survive. A bee lawn can attract over 50 species of bee! A bee lawn integrates low-growing flowering perennials with grasses. They require fewer pesticides, less fertilizer, water and mowing than a traditional lawn. Grasses in bee lawns can include grasses already present in your lawn, but, adding fine fescues and Buffalo grass will reduce the number of mowings needed per year and make the lawn more drought tolerant. “Strong creeping red fescue,” “slender creeping red fescue,” “chewings fescue,” “hard fescue” and “sheep fescue” can be grown with other cool-season grasses in full sun to shaded areas. Red Fescue Another alternative to cool-season grasses are sedges. However, they don’t take as well to mowing. Pennsylvania sedge grows to about 6”. Pennsylvania Sedge White clover springs to mind when thinking of bees, but there are several other good candidates that will spread out the flowering season from spring through fall. “Self-Heal” (Prunella) and “creeping thyme” and “birds foot trefoil” are non-natives that should not be planted near a wild area, but can be used in urban areas. “Ground plum,” “sweet white violets” and “common blue violets” are native alternatives. Self-Heal and Creeping Thyme Bee lawns can be treated similarly to lightly-used traditional lawns. They can be mowed (or not) at 3” or higher and take light foot traffic. Some examples of good places to plant bee lawns are: boulevards, steep slopes, primarily aesthetic areas, rights of way and easements. There are at least two ways to plant bee lawns. One is to start with bare soil (be aware that this area will have a “seed bank” of weeds.) and the other is to overseed. In certain cases, plugs might be a better choice. Click here for information on planting a bee lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/planting-and-maintaining-bee-lawn And here are some additional sites to help you get started on your bee lawn: Here is a site to find bee lawn seed: https://turf.umn.edu/lawn-info/purchasing-seed/bee-lawn-seed Click here to get signage for your lawn: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2021-05/Lawns%20to%20Legumes%20yard%20signs_Final_Single_2020_edits_smalllink_new_0.pdf Click here to see the Lawn to Legumes site and apply for a grant to help with expenses: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/l2l Here is a webinar discussing the ins and outs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEiEoSC60Ss Your lawn can “Bee” the change! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,2,3), University of Minnesota Extension (4,5)

< Back Our State Soil: Lester If you have ever planted anything in the ground, or even just dug a hole, you know how our soil can vary depending on where we live. As a gardener, it is likely you have had your soil tested and amended your soil to provide optimal growing conditions for your plants. Here in Minnesota, mother nature amended some soil on a very large scale and deposited about 400,000 acres of it across 17 counties, perfect for growing crops like corn, soybeans, and alfalfa, right in the heart of our state. Click here to get the dirt on Lester, our state soil. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener It’s 2012, and Lester, named after Lester Prairie, Minnesota where it was first acknowledged, is about to be named the state soil of Minnesota. Sen. Rod Skoe, DFL-Clearbrook, summed it up with, “Maybe with this [vote], we’ll stop treating our soil like dirt.” After all, it’s easy to take for granted what’s under our feet. But without soil, clean water and air, we literally can’t live. And by the way, to get right down to the nitty gritty, soil and dirt are not the same thing. Dirt is just that, dirt. It’s what you get on your hands or wipe off the floor. Soil, on the other hand, is a living ecosystem. Let’s dig in and learn what is so special about Lester soil and how it came to be designated as the “Official Minnesota State Soil” by Minnesota Governor Mark Dayton on April 28, 2012. It all began about 10,000 years ago when glaciers were sliding south across Minnesota, depositing rocks, pebbles, sand, and other materials along the way. After the ice melted, plants began to grow on the material left behind by the glaciers. The cycle had begun. Plants would grow, die, and become organic matter to nourish new plants that would grow, die, and support the next generation of plants. Forests and prairies eventually grew up and spread across the land. The roots from grasses and trees worked their way through the rocks and pebbles further breaking them down while water flowed into the soil dissolving minerals that had been deposited during the glacial period. The decaying leaves and grass from the forests and prairies added to the layers, called horizons, and continued to increase the fertility of this nutrient rich soil. In addition, the glacial moraines where the soil formed provided well-drained conditions adding to the ideal properties of the soil. In 1985, the Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists put together a task force to select a soil to represent Minnesota. In 1987 they voted to recommend Lester as the state soil because they recognized the significance of this resource. It took a while for Lester to gain its status as the official state soil however. There is always competition with other groups, often schoolchildren, pushing for designations of various state symbols. But finally, after the blueberry muffin became a symbol and the black bear didn’t, and just in time for the Smithsonian exhibit “Dig It!” to arrive in Minnesota, with Lester featured as the state soil, and coinciding with the University of Minnesota celebrating its 100-year anniversary, and 40 years of the Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists – phew! - Lester became official. From the Smithsonian State Soils exhibit Having a state soil provides unique opportunities for education about this precious resource, especially since agriculture is extremely important to the Minnesota economy. As we have learned, soil is one of the basic necessities to support life and we need to care for it. We can’t control drought, but we can control how we plant, protect our resources, and share our knowledge. typical landscape where Lester soil is found Resources for this article: https://www.startribune.com/hot-dish-politics-new-state-soil-is-a-standout/150303445/ https://www.soils4teachers.org/files/s4t/k12outreach/mn-state-soil-booklet.pdf https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/young_naturalists/young-naturalists-article/soil/soil-health.pdf https://www.soils.org/files/certifications/licensing/lester.pdf Photo Credit: Smithsonian Institute ( http://forces.si.edu/ ) (1), Minnesota Association of Professional Soil Scientists https://www.soils.org/files/certifications/licensing/lester.pdf (2), Smithsonian Institute ( https://forces.si.edu/SOILS/interactive/statesoils/html/State-Soils/Default.aspx?selection=Minnesota ) (3)