Indoor Plants Humidity and Indoor Plants Are you filling your winter gardening needs by growing houseplants? If so, you’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes is dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants . . . and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. In this article, Master Gardener Linda Stein provides advice about how providing humidity to your plants can help them through the winter. Read More Terrariums - A Garden in a Bottle Are you looking for an easy way to enjoy a live project with your child or grandchild over the Winter? How about creating a simple Terrarium that not only will be easy to care for but will also add a living garden to your home. All you need to begin is an open or enclosed glass or plastic container and a variety of planting materials. Read More Is it Time for Houseplants? It’s December. Everything in the garden is dead or hibernating. Assuming you did your fall clean-up in the yard, cleaned and sharpened your tools for next year and planted your spring bulbs, there is nothing to do in the garden. Feeling lost? Maybe it’s time to consider houseplants. Read More The Vacation is Over Your orchids have been enjoying an invigorating respite outside, but like all good things, it must come to an end. Orchids, like any indoor plant that has summered outdoors, have the potential of picking up nefarious bugs and potential diseases that you don’t want to bring into your indoor growing area. It is better to go on the offensive while they are outside because there are more treatment options available to combat the offenders when the orchids are outside. Read this article to learn how to return your orchids (or other house plants) indoors after their summer vacation. Read More Give Your Orchid a Vacation Orchids are like school children. They have been cooped up in your house all winter. They have treated you well, stayed healthy, and maybe even treated you to blooms; for that they deserve something special: a vacation! It is easy; you don’t need a travel agent, an airline reservation or even a hotel room: just set them outside. Read this article by avid orchid grower, Paul Wood, to learn how to safely grow your orchids outside in the summer. Read More How to Select an Orchid Have you been intrigued about orchids but don’t know where to start or how to keep them alive? Or, are you already an orchid grower but want some expert tips? This article on orchids is the first of three by orchid expert, Paul Wood. The first article provides great advice about how to choose the right orchid for you. Read on to learn how you can begin to be an orchid grower – and lover! Read More Moving Houseplants Outdoors for a Summer Vacation You have been enjoying your indoor plants during our long, cold winter. But soon it will be time to think about transitioning some of those plants outdoors. March might seem a bit early to think about moving your indoor plants to the outdoors but plants do require a transition time and warm weather will be here sooner than you think. There are many reasons that you might move your houseplants outdoors for the summer. But there are several things to consider to ensure that your plants flourish as a result of this move. Read More Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Click on this link to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. Read More Pet-Safe Plant Choices There are a lot of us in Dakota County and beyond who love both plants and our pets. Not all plants are compatible with the dogs and cats who live with us. Read on to find out about safer plant choices to make for our furry family members - and a few plants to keep away! Read More Propagating House Plants Winter blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. Read More The Short-lived Beauty of Blooming Cactus Various cacti can provide gardening pleasure in Minnesota both outside in the summer and inside during the cold weather. There are thousands of varieties of cacti, many of which are different and exotic, in other words, pretty cool. But there are some tricks to growing cacti successfully. Here are some tips on growing healthy cacti and getting them to re-bloom. Read More African Violets African Violets are one of the most popular houseplants because they require little maintenance and, cared for properly, bloom several times a year. But, as with any plant, they do have specific needs that you must know and pay attention to in order to provide the color and pleasure that you are hoping for. Read this article to understand how to achieve a happy, healthy African Violet in your home. Read More 1 2 1 ... 1 2 ... 2

Annuals & Bulbs Spring in September Plan Now to Start 2025 Blooming in Color Spring begins this month! I know, it’s September, but on a gardener’s calendar, this is the month to begin planning for an awakening of eagerly blooming sprouts and a palette of spring colors. Whether you are a “bulb-beginner” like me or a bulb enthusiast looking to expand on some gardening ideas, continue reading as we discuss the what, where, when, how, and why of spring blooming bulbs with a few design tips planted along the way. Read More BULBS 101 Snowdrops and daffodils are harbingers of spring, the first flowers to appear after the snow has melted and the days start to lengthen. For many of us, these early bulbs are a wake-up call, reminding us that the growing season is beginning. Of course, if seeing daffodils makes us want them in our own gardens, it’s too late for this year! For many Minnesota gardeners, bulbs have been in our yards for decades. However, if you’re new to bulbs or would just like a more in-depth look at them, this Bulb Primer is for you! Read More Protecting Bulbs for Winter Autumn in Minnesota is the time to prepare your bulbs for next year’s growing season, whether that is tucking in your hardy bulbs for their winter sleep (and protecting them from foraging critters!) or retrieving your tender bulbs for indoor storage to spare them from the harsh cold. Read on to learn more about what to do this season for beautiful blooms next year! Read More Overwinter Geraniums the Correct Way As the end of the growing season appears it may be sad to think of your beautiful geraniums’ endless show of color coming to an end. Fear not! While non-hardy geraniums are considered annuals, overwintering your prized plant indoors can carry them through to the following year, giving you a jump start on spring and saving you some money if you usually replace them each year. But beware – it’s not quite as simple as carrying your geranium pot inside and waiting for spring. This article talks about two ways to overwinter geraniums in a way that will maximize your chance of success. Read More What Can Alliums Do For Your Garden? As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. In this article, Marjory Blare explains why you should consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You may be familiar with varieties of allium used for cooking (for example, onion, garlic, scallion). But there are many ornamental alliums with many different features and colors. Read this article to learn more about the virtues of alliums. Read More The Ws (plus an H) of Bulbs The great thing about planting bulbs is that they will bloom year after year. Here's what you need to know to grow bulbs successfully in your garden and look forward to early spring color. Read More Glorious Amaryllis Amaryllis is a beautiful plant with large, stunning blooms that can be grown as a houseplant year-round. Get ready for some beautiful inside blooms and learn all about growing Amaryllis this winter. Read More Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Read More Early Spring Blooming Plants Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. Read More Harvesting and Preserving Herbs Harvest time is such a fun time of the year. There are so many herbs to harvest and preserve for the upcoming winter months. Some share their bounty year after year, like tarragon and oregano, and others, like basil and marjoram, are planted in spring for a fall harvest. Read More Forcing Flower Bulbs Successfully Need a little color in your home this winter? After all the holiday décor is stored away, forcing flower bulbs indoors is a great way to enjoy flowers, both for their color and fragrance, during the cold winter months. Read More Growing Daffodils Sometimes referred to as narcissus, daffodils nodding yellow, white, or variegated heads, are true harbingers of spring. Daffodils are a colorful addition to your garden with few basic steps. Read More 1 1 ... 1 ... 1

Annual Plant Sale Sat. May 17 - new location! Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets in Eagan and Apple Valley at 2024-25 winter markets. A complete listing of dates, location and times can be found on our Event Calendar. Gardening Problem or Questions? Garden Information Ask a MG Ask a Master Gardener Extension Yard & Garden Extension Yard & Garden Garden Information 1/3 Upcoming Events View All Events Get the Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Monthly gardening tasks Master Gardener events Plant diseases, insects or other garden problems Tips to enhance your garden and the environment; Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books and much more! Subscribe Now

< Back Spring is the Time for Wedding Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the season for weddings which prompts Master Gardener Joy Johnson to think about Italian Wedding Soup. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings; it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Read and learn how to make this soup part of your soup rotation – any time of the year. And, as a bonus, learn how to make Apple Butter to enjoy with your soup! It is so exciting that spring has arrived in Minnesota, I’ve doubled the size of my vegetable garden this year and started dozens of vegetables in early spring in the house. Now it’s time to put them out into the garden. They are all still young plants, many weeks away from harvest. But I am anticipating a bountiful harvest, so I need to use up what I canned, dried and froze from last year’s harvest to make room for this year’s produce. Spring is also the season for weddings, which makes my mind wander to Italian Wedding soup , which I love. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings, it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Usually, this soup takes a long time to make because it traditionally has tons of tiny little meatballs. Instead, I season ground chicken with lots of herbs and spices and then brown it. You get all the same flavors and textures without all the work. This soup is made silky and rich by the eggs stirred in at the end that cook into yummy wisps. I serve this soup with my homemade apple butter spread on my sour dough bread, with a glass of my homemade apple juice. I got a fruit steamer last fall and steamed my apples to get a fresh, sugar free, juice. Then I pressure canned the quarts of juice. We’ve been enjoying it all winter long and have just finished our last quart. The recipe for the apple butter makes very good use of the apple chunks that I had frozen last fall and is quick to make using a blender. Italian Wedding Soup Ingredients : ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 lb. ground chicken or turkey 1 medium onion ¼ cup dried parsley 1 T. dried basil 1 T. dried oregano 2 tsp. smoked paprika1 ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese Crushed red pepper flakes Fine pink Himalayan salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 medium carrots, chopped (fresh or frozen) 4 celery stalks, chopped 2 T. finely chopped garlic 8 cups chicken broth 6 cups spinach (fresh or frozen) 10 ounces cheese tortellini 2 T. lemon juice 2 large eggs Process : In a large pot combine the olive oil, chicken, onion, parsley, basil, oregano, paprika, ¼ cup of the Parmesan and a pinch each of red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Place pot over medium-high heat and cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon until the meat is browned and the onion is soft and translucent, 5-8 minutes. Add the carrots, celery and garlic. Cook stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 5 minutes. Add the broth and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the flavors are married, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach, tortellini, and lemon juice. Cook until the tortellini are al dente, 5 minutes more. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Slowly drizzle the egg mixture into the broth, stirring the soup constantly and gently to form thin strands of cooked egg, about 30 seconds. Ladle into bowls and serve, topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. Maple Apple Butter Ingredients : 10 cups chopped apples, fresh or frozen 1 ¼ cups apple juice (or apple cider if you don’t have fresh juice) ½ cup pure maple syrup, plus more as needed 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves Pinch of fine pink Himalayan salt Process : Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a blender, working in batches as needed, combine the apples with the apple juice/cider and blend until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a 9x13-inch baking dish. Add the maple syrup, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt and stir to combine. Roast for 30-35 minutes. Give the apple butter a stir and reduce the oven temperature to 350. Continue roasting, stirring every 30 minutes, for 1 to 1 ½ hours more until the apple butter is thick and golden brown. Taste and add more maple syrup as needed. Discard the cinnamon sticks, if using. Let the apple butter cool. Store refrigerated in airtight glass jars for up to 1 month. I also use this apple butter to make Chai Donuts , but you will have to wait until next month for that recipe! Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-3)

< Back Don’t Let Powdery Mildew Haunt You! Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Powdery mildew is a very common garden fungus. This fungus was even more prevalent last year when our abundant rainfall increased our summer humidity. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Read this very informative article to understand what powdery mildew is, how it affects plants, what you can do to prevent it and how to control it when it happens. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Remember how the weather affected your garden last year? Dakota County received an extra 4” to 5” of rain and the average temperature during the 2024 gardening season compared with the average for the previous 25 years. The extra rainfall increased humidity and helped produce an abundance of powdery mildew in many Minnesota gardens. If your garden plants suffered from powdery mildew, you are not alone. Powdery mildew is one of the most prevalent crop diseases in the world,,3 affecting hundreds of types of plants including many common garden vegetables and flowers. This article explores what you can do to reduce the chances of last year’s powdery mildew returning to haunt your garden this year. What is powdery mildew? Powdery mildew is a fungal disease stemming from several different pathogens that vary by host plant. Plants with early infections of powdery mildew may have yellow spots, dark blotches, discoloring and lesions on leaves, usually on the upper surface of newer leaves and lower leaves. The disease then progresses to include a ghostly-white, powder-like substance (image 1) on leaves and stems. If left unchecked, powdery mildew will quickly spread to cover the plant and wither the leaves and stems. The pathogen can spread from 10% of the leaves to 70% of the leaves in a week2. A severe infection will cause leaves to drop off and can significantly reduce fruit and flower production. The white spores of powdery mildew eventually mature into brown and black pinhead-sized spheres caed cleistothecia or chasmothecia (image 2). Cleistothecia will survive the winter and release new powdery mildew spores in the spring. ,,10 Powdery mildew fungal spores infect only plants’ surface structures to take up nutrients and do not invade interior plant tissues. Therefore, it is rare that powdery mildew kills a plant but the plant may appear to be decimated. 2,10 Minnesota weather and powdery mildew. Powdery mildew requires humidity (but not necessarily the presence of water on the leaves) for spore germination. Humidity refers to the amount of water vapor in the air. Humidity will increase around plants when the ground around the plants is wet and ground moisture steams into the air. Variable relative humidity during the garden season will help promote powdery mildew. Relative humidity refers to the ratio of water vapor in the air versus the maximum water vapor possible in the air at a specific temperature. The maximum water vapor level is lower at lower temperatures. Therefore, for a fixed humidity level, relative humidity rises as the temperature falls. High relative humidity stimulates powdery mildew fungal reproduction while low relative humidity helps disperse fungal spores. Although powdery mildew requires humidity, the disease does not flourish in cool, rainy conditions.5 In fact, extended rainfall can help wash powdery mildew spores off leaves, inhibit germination and potentially kill powdery mildew spores. Powdery mildew spreads most rapidly in warm, cloudy12 weather (60o-80o F) and the spread decelerates in cool and hot weather.5 Note that leaf temperatures on sunny days are warmer than the surrounding air temperatures and leaf temperatures above 95o F are fatal to some (if not all) powdery mildews.2,4 All of the weather preferences mentioned above mean that powdery mildew thrives when days are warm and relatively dry (spreads spores) while nights are warm and humid (germinates spores).5 Unfortunately, this recipe aligns with Minnesota summer conditions making powdery mildew a frequent pathogen in our gardens. Prevent: what to do before a powdery mildew outbreak. While you cannot control the weather, you can minimize garden conditions that encourage powdery mildew. Prevention of powdery mildew should be the primary focus of gardeners because the disease is very difficult to eradicate once the disease is established in a garden.5 Frequently examine leaves and stems for a potential powdery mildew outbreak since early detection and action are critical to reducing the spread of the disease.5,12 Choose sunnier garden spots , when possible, for plant types that are more susceptible to powdery mildew since powdery mildew will grow more in shaded areas. Highly susceptible garden plants include apples, bee balm, begonias, columbine, cucumbers, grapes, lilacs, peas, peonies, phlox, potatoes, rhododendron, roses, rudbeckia, squash and zinnias.6,,,10,12 Increase airflow around plants to help reduce humidity and reduce moisture on plant leaves. Air flow will improve when you thin out plants, pull weeds, prune perennials, stake or trellis plants, and keep a space between plants and solid structures (e.g. keep plants 8”-12” from buildings).3,5,10,11 Avoid over-watering of plants , especially in areas with slow draining soil. Water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves, and water early in the morning to give the plants time to dry out before night fall.3 Plant garden varietals resistant to powdery mildew .5,12 Garden catalogs, seed packets and garden stores should provide information on the disease-resistant characteristics of plants.10,11 In addition, Cornell University provides a database of disease-resistant vegetable varietals. For example, Cornell reports that Avalanche snow peas and Cascadia snap peas are resistant to powdery mildew. Cornell’s 2025 information is based on 2018-22 data and should be confirmed, if possible, with plant-specific information for the current growing season. powdery mildew on Ninebark Control: what to do during a powdery mildew outbreak. If you identify powdery mildew in your garden, you should follow all the powdery mildew prevention recommendations and also take the following actions to help control the outbreak. It is important to act quickly when you diagnose powdery mildew in the garden since the pathogen spreads so rapidly. Trim off infected plant leaves and stems and remove the debris from the garden. Consider removing the entire plant if the infection has progressed significantly or if nearby plants are at risk of becoming infected.5,11 Trim off leaves near the ground and newer leaves and stems of the infected plants. Newer leaves are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Avoid fertilizing late in the season which encourages new plant growth.3,10 Sterilize tools that were used to trim plants infected with powdery mildew before using the tools on healthy plants. Tolerate small outbreaks of powdery mildew. The best management course may be tolerance of powdery mildew when the plant is beyond peak production and surrounding plants are not at risk. You may want to harvest full-grown pumpkins or squash in this situation to avoid powdery mildew attacking the fruit. Pumpkins and squash should last a couple of months if stored in a cool, dark spot after harvesting.11 Fungicides should only be used as a last resort since fungicides can harm both plants and insects.5 There are many fungicides that people have applied in attempts to control powdery mildew including milk, garlic, baking soda, neem oil, horticultural oils, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur and copper. Before choosing a fungicide, be sure to understand if the fungicide is a protectant (e.g. sulfur) or eradicant (e.g. oils) fungicide. Protectant fungicides only work if applied prior to a powdery mildew outbreak and usually require repeat applications. Eradicant fungicides work best if applied after a powdery mildew outbreak but before the outbreak becomes severe. Fungicides will not eliminate powdery mildew after the majority of leaves are infected.10 Be sure to follow any instructions provided on the fungicide packaging.3,6 There are a few specific situations where fungicides should be avoided even though powdery mildew is present in the garden. Fungicides should not be applied to late-season powdery mildew outbreaks when the autumnal leaves are close to dropping since the infection is not as harmful to the plant at that point.8 Fungicides should also not be applied to infected annual flowers or low-value perennial flowers since the fungicides can kill pollinators.10 Note that supporting research is very limited with regards to the efficacy of home remedies (e.g. milk, garlic, baking soda) for powdery mildew prevention or eradication. In addition, preventive and control activities should always be completed regardless of whether or not fungicides are applied. Fungicides are rarely necessary., Minimize: what to do after a powdery mildew outbreak. powdery mildew on peony Powdery mildew can survive winter on both live plants and plant debris. Therefore, powdery mildew is likely to recur once it is in your garden unless you take precautions to control the disease. Autumn and spring clean-ups are critical to breaking the cycle of last year’s powdery mildew outbreak. All annuals that were infected should be pulled and removed from the garden, preferably in autumn but spring cleaning is acceptable. Perennials should be pruned to remove infected plant material and to increase air flow. In addition, any plant debris in and around infected plants should be collected and removed from the garden. Do not till infected plant material into the ground as powdery mildew will continue to live in the plant material. Infected refuse should be burned or composted by a commercial composter. Home composting does not get hot enough for long enough to kill powdery mildew.3,5 Powdery mildew requires plant material to thrive. Therefore, you should not need to treat or remove wood chips or soil from powdery mildew areas. However, if the wood chips appear moldy after a powdery mildew outbreak, you may want to remove the wood chips as a precautionary measure. Because powdery mildew pathogens vary by host plant type, rotating plants (i.e. do not put the same plant type in the same space as last year) is key to minimizing the recurrence of powdery mildew. The following table provides groupings of common garden plants that are affected by the same specific powdery mildew pathogen2. If you had one of the plants shown in a group in your garden last year and those plants were infected by powdery mildew, you should avoid planting any of the plants in the same group in the same spot in your garden this year. Note that some plants are included in multiple groups indicating that those plants may be impacted by more than one powdery mildew pathogen. Powdery Mildew Pathogen Plants Impacted by Specific Pathogen2 Erysiphe cichoracearum Cucumbers, endive, lettuce, melons, potato, pumpkin, squash Erysiphe cruciferarum Cole crops (e.g. broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower), radicchio, radishes, turnips Erysiphe lycopersici Tomatoes Erysiphe pisi Peas Erysiphe heraclei Carrots, parsley, parsnips Erysiphe polygoni Beets Leveillula taurica Artichoke, eggplant, peppers, tomatillos, tomatoes Sphaerotheca fuliginea Beans, black-eyed peas, cucurbits (pumpkins, gourds, squash), okra Photo Credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Michigan State University, http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late- (2), University of Minnesota (3), University of Minnesota, M. Grabowski (4) 1 National Centers for Environmental Information, May-September 2024 compared with May-September 1999-2023, http://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/monitoring/climate-at-a-glance/county/time-series/MN-037/tavg/5/9/1999-2024?base_prd=true&begbaseyear=1999&endbaseyear=2023 2 EOS (Earth Observing System) Data Analytics, “Powdery Mildew: Effective Prevention And Treatment”, http://eos.com/blog/powdery-mildew/#:~:text=Powdery%20mildew%20is%20among%20the,would%20kill%20most%20other%20fungi . 3 Colorado State University, “Powdery Mildews”, http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/powdery-mildews-2-902/ 4 Michigan State University, “Late-season control of powdery mildew in grapes”, Image 2 and content from http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late-season_control_of_powdery_mildew_in_grapes_focus_on_inoculum_managemen 5 Penn State, “Addressing Downy Mildew and Powdery Mildew in the Home Garden”, http://extension.psu.edu/addressing-downy-mildew-and-powdery-mildew-in-the-home-garden#:~:text=In%20some%20plants%2C%20such%20as,oily%20spot%20on%20the%20leaves.&text=Powdery%20mildew%20looks%20like%20flour,across%20the%20top%20of%20leaves . 6 University of California, Davis, “Powdery Mildew on Ornamentals”, http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/powdery-mildew-on-ornamentals/pest-notes/#gsc.tab=0 7 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=2289318 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=228931 8 Iowa State University, “Powdery Mildew- Ornamental plants”, http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/encyclopedia/powdery-mildew-ornamental-plants 9 Cornell University, “Disease Resistant Vegetable Varieties”, http://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties 10 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in the flower garden”, http://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/powdery-mildew-flower-garden#:~:text=How%20to%20identify%20powdery%20mildew,to%20red%20around%20the%20infection . 11 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in flowers and vining vegetables”, http://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/powdery-mildew-flowers-and-vining-vegetables 12 Oklahoma State University, “Pumpkin and Squash Diseases”, http://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/pumpkin-and-squash-diseases.html

< Back American Beech (Fagus grandifolia): An All American! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Think of the majestic forests of the early Midwest and you think of glorious beech trees. They and their cousins, the oaks and chestnuts are the noble components of a climax mesic forest. This magnificent tree has a unique trunk and puts on a beautiful show of color in the fall. But there are some things you need to know to grow this tree successfully. Read this article to learn more. Think of the majestic forests of the early Midwest and you think of glorious beech trees. They and their cousins, the oaks and chestnuts are the noble components of a climax mesic forest. In other words, this is what you see in mature, moist old forests that haven’t been ravaged by developers or loggers. Thus, they aren’t that prevalent in the wild. Indeed, when the Midwest was initially settled by Europeans, farmers were quick to notice that beech grew on the best farm soil. You’ll find American Beech mostly in the Eastern Midwest and East coast but they will grow in Zone 4. Southern and east Central Minnesota can host these venerable trees. The Minnesota Landscape Arboretum has some wonderful specimens. a mature American beech Planting sites should be selected with caution. The tree is intolerant of dry conditions. So, a moist, well-drained soil is helpful. Also, when planting west of its native range, a protected site is desirable. As the beech grows, the trunk becomes a smooth, luscious bluish grey. In the fall, American beech puts on quite a show of rich golden to orange-brown foliage. The leaves are quite delicately thin and arranged horizontally to maximize light capture. The American beech is an outstanding shade tree which will reach 60 to 100 feet at maturity. Intense shade is found beneath its canopy, so plan on planting shade-loving plants there. Even fescue grass will be shaded out. spring leaves Unfortunately, the American beech is susceptible to fungal infection. A combination of fungi can cause cankers and ultimately kill the tree. The U.S. Forest Service in cooperation with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources has been working on a disease resistant cultivar . Once established, however the American beech is a magnificent addition to a larger lawn or park Photo Credits: Famartin, Wikipedia (1), Marylandbiodiversity.com (2), Dcrjsr, Wikipedia (3)

< Back Hydrangeas – An Essential Garden Classic Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The Hydrangea shrub is a classic garden staple because of its hardiness and beautiful blooms. Shopping for Hydrangea at your local garden store can be overwhelming because there are many different varieties of this lovely perennial shrub. This article describes the different varieties, their characteristics and care needs. Read on to learn more about which hydrangeas would work well in your yard. Hydrangea is a hardy and popular shrub that thrives in Minnesota’s climate. They provide beautiful flowers later in the season and large attractive leaves in a shape that provides excellent structure in your garden. When choosing hydrangea, it is important to note that they are not all the same. The different varieties have different characteristics and care needs. This article will discuss the features and needs of four different types of hydrangeas. Hydrangea paniculata have cone shaped flowers that change from light green to deep pink and then tan flower heads in the fall. The flower heads provide landscape interest during the winter and make beautiful indoor flower arrangements all winter. Paniculata ‘s flowers are not susceptible to frost damage because they bloom on new wood. Hydrangea paniculata can grow to 7 feet tall. Pruning should be delayed until late winter or early spring. The pruning cut or head cut, should be ¼” above the swollen bud. Click here for more information about pruning hydrangeas from the University of Minnesota Extension. Fertilize in spring and early summer with a general garden fertilizer. Favorite panicle hydrangeas are: Quick Fire (H paniculata ‘Bulk’) Limelight (H paniculata ‘limelight’) First additions, Berry White (H paniculata ‘Reuba’) Hydrangea macrophylla , “big leaf hydrangea” or “mophead hydrangea,” is a zone 5 plant that can do well in southern Minnesota. It typically grows 3 – 6 feet tall and wide and produces large clusters of long-blooming flowers either in lacecap or mophead form. Blooms are pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils and blue in highly acidic soils. Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old and new wood. Prune hydrangea macrophylla in early fall after they are done flowering with a diagonal cut ¼” above the bud. The Endless Summer ( H. macrophylla ‘Bailmer’ ) cultivar is an exception; this cultivar blooms on last year’s wood and new wood. This variety will bloom whether it is pruned or not. Prune in August after flowering. Fertilize three times a season with small amounts beginning in the early spring. Popular varieties are: Blushing Bride Bloom Struck Summer Crush Twist ‘n Shout Hydrangea aborescens or “smooth hydrangea” needs to grow several seasons before pruning. It has giant white flower heads that bloom in mid-summer. They turn green when dry. They typically grow 3 – 6 feet. Apply one application of fertilizer in late winter or early spring. When the shrub is established, prune it to the ground in the spring. Flower buds grow on this season’s growth or new wood. Examples of Hydrangea aborescens or smooth hydrangeas are: Annabelle (H. aborescens ‘Annabelle’) (a classic) Invincible mini mauvette (H. aborescens) Incrediball (H. aborescens ‘Abetwo’) (bred to have stronger stem strength) Hydrangea petolaris or climbing hydrangea is a tough wood vine that produces large clusters of white flowers. It likes full sun to part shade and acidic soil. This sturdy vine can grow 30-50 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide. Plant this vine on a sturdy trellis or fence where you want to have a dense long-living screen. Once established, this vine can be aggressive. Climbing hydrangea needs to no pruning. Only prune out the dead wood stems. Types of climbing hydrangea: Miranda Silver lining Flying Saucer Other facts to know about hydrangeas care: Sunlight: Most hydrangeas like morning sun and afternoon shade. Most will not bloom if planted in full shade. Fertilizer: General garden fertilizer is adequate for hydrangea. Water: Over or underwatering will result in fewer blooms. Test the soil with your finger and don’t water if the soil is wet. Soil Nutrients: A lush bush plant with no blooms is a sign of too much nitrogen. Check to see if lawn fertilizer is getting into the soil. Lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen. Pruning: Over pruning and pruning in the spring can cause a hydrangea to skip blooming. Pruning in late spring can cut off too many buds. Weather: Late freezes can damage new buds and be the reason for no blooms. Hydrangea is a beautiful shrub along a foundation or as an anchor for a perennial bed. Be sure to read the height information that accompanies your shrub. Individual Hydrangeas have different leaf structure, bloom size, and colors. This shrub is easy to grow. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-4) Resources : University of Minnesota, extension.umn.edu/hydrangea Monrovia, Monrovia.com Missouri Botanical Garden.org https://www.thespruce.com/climbing-hydrangea-vines-2132893

< Back The Short-lived Beauty of Blooming Cactus Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Various cacti can provide gardening pleasure in Minnesota both outside in the summer and inside during the cold weather. There are thousands of varieties of cacti, many of which are different and exotic, in other words, pretty cool. But there are some tricks to growing cacti successfully. Here are some tips on growing healthy cacti and getting them to re-bloom. A long time ago, I thought growing cactus would be a piece of cake. Just set the little cactus I’d picked up at Home Depot on the window sill, ignore it for six months and then give it a little water. I thought I would be extravagantly rewarded for all my effort. NOT! Within a month the cactus had shriveled up and died. I did some research, mostly to convince myself that it really wasn’t all my fault it had died, but I found out it was. Short and sweet, here is what I’ve learned about growing cactus over the years. First, they need a growing medium that is 60% sand/small gravel and 40% cactus potting soil. Second, it is best to grow them in a traditional, non-glazed clay pot with a clay saucer underneath the hole in the bottom of the pot. This allows them to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Third, they should be watered once a week, not flooded, but enough to get the soil thoroughly wet. Don’t water them if they are not all the way dry. Fourth, they need light. In the winter my cacti (all 52 of them) are in my house in front of south and west facing windows. They go semi dormant in the cool basement and only need ¼ cup of water every two weeks. This allows them to rest. In the spring, I bring them upstairs, where there is more light, and give them a little cactus fertilizer (half the recommended dose) with every other watering. When outdoor day time temperatures are above 65 degrees and all chance of frost is past, I move them all outdoors. If possible, a week in a shaded area is a good transition before placing them in full sun. Because I have so many, they don’t all get treated to shade before being placed in the full sun, I simply don’t have the space. A few have gotten sunburned spots on them, but all have survived. It doesn’t matter if they get poured on by a summer thunderstorm. They seem to love the extra moisture, as long as they are in pots that drain and can dry out. I occasionally fertilize them during the summer, but not too often. It’s important to place them out of harm’s way, where they won’t get blown over, or bumped by passersby. In June and July, you may be rewarded by these stunning blooms. They only last 24 hours, but they are simply breath taking. This year, we had one cactus that bloomed in both June and July (usually they only bloom once a year). Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus also enjoy being outside in the summertime. Make sure they aren’t in full sun, they definitely like it a little shady. We have one large cactus that I call a dragon’s head cactus because it’s flowers really look like a dragon head with its mouth wide open. Every summer I’ve put it outside, it gets tiny brown spots all over it. I bring it in before the first frost and it rewards me with blooms in January. The brown spots fade once it’s been in the house for a month or so. I’m thinking it doesn’t like being outdoors, even in the shade. But I like the extra space I have in the house during the summer once all 52 cactuses have been moved to their outdoor summer homes! I don’t know the scientific names for all our cactuses, many seem to have been mislabeled, simple called “Euphorbia” or my favorite, “cactus”. We just enjoy them, after all a cactus by any other name will still look stunning. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3)

< Back Beware Garlic Mustard in Early Spring Garlic Mustard may be edible and tasty but unless you are planning to cook with it, you will not want it growing in your yard. One of the first weeds to appear in the spring, Garlic Mustard is a noxious weed that is difficult to get rid of. Read this article to learn how to identify Garlic Mustard and how to control it. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener While working in my rain garden one Fall, planting tulips and other spring bulbs, I discovered a new patch of unknown plants growing that I knew I had not planted. And it smelled like garlic when I pulled it out – but it sure didn’t look like the garlic I grow. I recalled someone talking about Garlic Mustard and based on the pictures and description I found on the University of Minnesota Extension garden website ( UMN Extension - Garlic Mustard ), determined that was my newest garden challenge. Despite sounding like something delicious (and it can be used to cook), Garlic Mustard is on the MN Department of Agriculture’s Noxious Weed list . Garlic Mustard is allelopathic, sending out chemicals that cause the reduced growth of nearby plants. It is challenging to eradicate. However, knowing its lifecycle can help you manage it ( Garlic Mustard Lifecycle graphic ). It is a biennial, which means during the first year, green vegetation growth occurs, with heart-shaped leaves that grow in a rosette format. In the second year, Garlic Mustard shoots up a stalk, 1 to 4 feet with serrated leaves and produces flowers and then seeds. The flowers are small, white, and have four petals. Seeds are produced in black oblong capsules with a single row of seeds. There can be over 100 seeds released by one plant and they can survive in the soil for five years. Controlling Garlic Mustard takes perseverance. It is one of the first plants to emerge in the spring and the green leaves make it easy to find. Handpulling the plants is an option however, it is important to pull out the entire root. The Garlic Mustard root is a long, slender tap with an S-shaped end that makes it difficult to pull out fully. Disposing of the plants must be done correctly to avoid spreading it further. If you pull out plants that are flowering, you need to make sure to bag the plants as they can still produce seeds for several days. The pulled plants should remain on site to decay naturally, according to the Noxious Weed List information. And it is illegal to put them in garbage bins (Minnesota Statute 115A.931). Some chemicals, such as those that have triclopyr (Garlon) or glyphosate, have been effective especially when carefully applied in early spring or late fall before Garlic Mustard flowers. Despite being a noxious weed, Garlic Mustard is actually edible and tasty. You can make pesto, soups, quiches, salads, cakes, and more ( Garlic Mustard Recipes ). Make sure you are harvesting it safely and legally, for example, avoid roadside ditches that may have been treated with pesticides. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/garlic-mustard#disposal-2997812 (1,2,3)

< Back Do All Bees Sting? Lisa Olson, Master Gardener On one hand, a gardener’s tiny friend, the bee, is usually a docile doer of good, buzzing around from plant to plant, pollinating to provide a bountiful harvest in the future. On the other hand, many fear the small insect with the mighty sting. But do all bees sting? If you are curious, click on the link to learn more about our little friend, the bee. Bumblebee Do all bees sting? The short answer is no. But some bees do sting, and they also get blamed for more than their fair share. Many people mistakenly call all stinging insects “bees.” Hornets and wasps are typically more aggressive than their rounder, fuzzier relative, the bee. Bees are pretty tolerant of humans unless they feel provoked or threatened. They will sting to protect their nest or hive, but they are generally not a threat to people if they are left alone. In fact, when bees are busy flying from flower to flower collecting nectar and pollen, you can safely observe them without fear of being stung. However, since about 80 percent of bee species nest in the ground, it is not surprising that many bee stings occur when someone unknowingly steps on a nest. Ground Nest Certain bees are not capable of stinging. Only female bees have a stinger which is a modified egg laying apparatus. Male bees are not equipped with that part and therefore are unable to sting. Not every sting is equal among all female bees. While the social bumblebee and honeybee sting can be quite painful, the sting of most solitary native bees is similar to a pinprick. Of the nearly 20,000 known bee species in the world, about 400 of them live in Minnesota. Only about 2% of those are honeybees and bumblebees, including the state bee of Minnesota, the rusty patched bumblebee. The other 98% are mostly solitary bees like the mason and leafcutter bees. Rusty Patched Bumblebee While some bees are not capable of stinging at all, the female bumblebee, along with its relatives the yellow jacket and paper wasp, can sting multiple times. Its stinger is smooth so that it can remove it and re-inject it multiple times. The honeybee, on the other hand, has a barbed stinger. Once its stinger penetrates human skin, it becomes lodged and cannot be removed. When it flies away, the stinger stays behind, and the honeybee will die shortly afterward from the hole left in its abdomen. If that occurs, the sting victim should immediately scratch out the stinger with a fingernail rather than grasping it with two fingers to prevent squeezing more venom into the wound. A very small portion of the population is allergic to bee or wasp venom. While a person is more likely to die from being struck by lightning than stung by a bee, an average of 62 people die each year in the United States from a bee, wasp, or hornet sting according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Since you can’t just hang around male bees, in order to avoid being stung, you can take the following precautions: Stay calm. Don’t swat at bees. Just remain calm and slowly walk away. Wear shoes outside. Stepping on a nest is the most common way to get stung. Plant flowers away from your doors. Reduce the risk of a negative encounter by planting pollinator habitat away from high traffic areas. Beekeepers wear white for a reason. If you don’t look or smell like a brightly colored flower, bees are less likely to bother you. Just watch, don’t touch. If you leave them alone, they will leave you alone. Bees are excellent neighbors and extremely beneficial to us. Pollinators are responsible for about one third of the food we eat. The best thing we can do, as with all wildlife, is to respect it by keeping our distance. That way we don't have to worry whether it is a stinging bee or not. And last of all, by providing more pollinator friendly habitat, we can ensure a healthy, happy bee population for the future. https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/wasps-and-bees#reactions-to-stings-1465111 https://mphysicians.org/news/2022/07/20/buzz-sting-ow-dealing-wasp-or-bee-stings-11076 https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/68/wr/mm6829a5.htm https://www.pollinator.org/pollinator.org/assets/generalFiles/NAPPC.NoFear.brochFINAL.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests#:~:text=About%2080%20percent%20of%20bee,over%20the%20nests%20of%20others . https://beelab.umn.edu/Native-Bee/diversity https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2020-03/Planting%20for%20Pollinators%20Design%20Guide%20with%20logos.pdf Photo Credit: University of Minnesota (1,2,3,4)

< Back Caring for Indoor Plants with Young Children Kristin Beardsley Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. Click here to discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. In this article, discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants. DO Materials: Place to work, can be a child-sized table, coffee table, plant stand, or the floor. Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Tray to carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Atomizer or spray bottle Cloth to catch drips Small watering can Several indoor plants Small brush and dustpan for clean-up (optional) Presentation Invite the child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left-handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Choose a plant and bring it to the workspace. It’s nice to tell the child what the plant is called or look at the tag if the plant is labeled. “Let’s mist the leaves. First, I will mist, then you can.” Pick up the atomizer, rest the atomizer on your non-dominant hand as you slowly place your fingers to mist. Hold the handle with your thumb and middle finger, then place your pointer finger on the top. Your pointer finger will push down to mist, keep your hands in this position to show your child a way they can be successful. This grip will help your child to strengthen their hand for holding pencils for writing. I model this, but my daughter isn’t able to do it yet, so she puts the atomizer on the table and pushes down with her palm. A spray bottle is also an easier option for younger children. Discuss how much water the plant needs and decide if it needs to be watered by feeling for moisture in the soil with a finger. Go fill the watering can. Show the child how to carry the watering can with one hand on the handle and one holding the cloth on the spout to decrease spills. When you go to water the cloth can be lowered and then can come back up to catch drips. Look for any spills and dry with the cloth and invite the child to water. Invite the child to water as many plants as they like and show them how to put everything away when they are done. You might need a small brush and dustpan to pick up any spilled soil. Extension for a Younger Child: Leaf Dusting It might be nice to introduce leaf dusting first as an introduction to caring for indoor plants, and it is accessible for a younger child. It feels great to see a dusty leaf look clean and shiny again. Choose a special cloth to be the designated leaf duster or make a leaf duster out of wool with a little handle, and choose a dish for the duster to sit in. When you go to present leaf dusting to your child bring the duster and plant to a workspace. Place one hand under the leaf and show how to dust the leaf from base to tip with 2-3 strokes. Dust a few leaves and then invite the child to dust. Only plants with smooth leaves can be dusted. Extension for an Older Child: Pruning Older children can also prune dead leaves while caring for indoor plants. Keep a small child size pruner in a dish. Show how to safely open the pruner and explain how we never touch the blade; it is very sharp. Locate and prune dead leaves and place them in the dish. Safely close the pruner before setting it down. Discard the leaves in the dish. Things to Consider when Presenting Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. Plants may be overwatered and over pruned. Have a big towel ready for spills and only offer plants that you are okay getting a fun new look. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. Focusing on your hands will help the child to be successful. Avoid praising the child and instead use phrases that acknowledge what they have achieved, like “You watered the plant,” when appropriate. Read Create a book for your child with all the plants in your home. Include the plants common name, scientific name, and how much water and light it needs. To assist a child who is not yet reading include a photo of each plant along with symbols to represent water and sun needs. Then place a sweet little tag with each plant including the name and symbols for how much water and sun it needs. This will allow your developing child to find a proper location for the plant to thrive and water it appropriately.

< Back Grow Pear Trees Successfully In Your Back Yard Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Pear trees can be just as easy if not easier to grow than apples! Find out how in this article. I am sorry to report that Partridges are a mostly ground-dwelling bird, so you’ll likely not see any in your trees. www.allaboutbirds.org Do partridges occur in pear trees? Around this time of year we do receive a spike in sightings of partridges in pear trees, although curiously there never seems to be more than one individual reported per pear tree. Both partridges and pear trees are Old World species that have been introduced into North America, which means that th Pears originated in central Asia and have spread around the world. They have been hybridized to survive in hardiness zones 4-8, although some can tolerate zone 3. The blossoms will die if there is a spring freeze of 24F°. Pear trees can be up to 40’ tall, but there are some semi-dwarfing rootstocks that will result in a 15-20’ tree. Most pears fruit on spurs. Spurs form on wood that is two years or older. Fruit buds are fat and furry, leaf buds are slender and smooth. Fruiting spur Pear trees will do reasonably well in a wide range of soil types, although they don’t like wet feet. Pear trees require full sunlight all day long. You will need two varieties of pears for optimum pollination. “Summer Crisp” and “Patton” work well together; both have a certain amount of disease resistance and are hardy here. Fire-blight is the most serious disease and should be pruned out to a minimum of 6” below the disease. The pests that can attack pear trees are rabbits and voles (winter bark damage), deer (browsing and antler rubbing). Japanese beetles feed on pear leaves, but not to damaging levels. This link includes planting instructions: https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-pears Pruning is just cuts and consequences. A plant can be pruned at any time of year – you’ll just get different consequences. Begin pruning a pear tree in late winter before the buds begin to swell. Earlier pruning encourages water sprouts and suckering in spring and summer and also increases the chances of winter injury to the pruning sites. Summer pruning of fruit trees controls excess growth on a tree by removing energy-wasting water sprouts. Summer is also a good time to remove leafy upper branches that excessively shade fruit on lower branches. https://extension.psu.edu/pruning-apples-and-pears-in-home-fruit-plantings A few weeks after pruning, new growth will be vigorous and can have very narrow crotch angles. To prevent this, you need to force the new shoots to a more horizontal growth pattern. If a limb is not spread, as in the picture to the left, a bark inclusion can develop, i.e. the bark of the trunk and the branch grow together. This weakens the branch and can be an entry point for disease. Weak branch angle with bark inclusion A wide-angled branch, results in a stronger branch that can carry future heavy crops. Limb spreaders improve the tree shape and form strong crotch angles. Young branches can be clothes pinned, tied or weighted down. Spreaders can be either short pieces of wood with sharpened nails driven into each end or sharpened metal rods. Spreaders should remain in place until the branch "stiffens up" (1-2 years). Strong branch angle The summer after the first winter pruning, remove any water sprouts that grow on a heavily pruned tree. Water sprouts grow around pruning cuts. If you use pruning shears, you never quite get the entire shoot. Instead, pull the shoots off the trunk and major side branches, shoots can be pulled off safely throughout the season as long as their bases remain tender and green. Heading cuts shorten a limb or shoot. This removes the terminal bud that normally stops shoot development from buds closer to the trunk. This also causes several shoots to develop near the cut, which results in a thicker, denser canopy and reduced light levels. A thinning cut removes an entire shoot or branch back to its point of origin. Thinning cuts do not induce excessive vigorous regrowth and will open the tree to allow more sun inside the interior. Harvest and Storage Pears should be harvested while they are still firm and green. Some pears rot from the inside out, if they ripen on the tree. For best results, find out the approximate maturity time for the cultivar, watch for a slight color change from a darker to a lighter shade of green, and check fruit size. Store mature pears in the refrigerator, then ripen at room temperature for up to a week before eating or canning. Pears bruise easily, so, handle carefully when picking and storing! https://extension.unh.edu/resource/growing-fruits-growing-pears-home-orchard-fact-sheet Happy growing and check out the many wonderful pear recipes found on the internet! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare