Lawn Care Disruption to Delight: Partnering with the City to Start a Bee Lawn Are you interested in doing more to help our native pollinators? If so, consider turn all or part of your lawn into a bee lawn. A bee lawn can provide a recreational space for you and it can also provide much-needed food resources for bees and other beneficial pollinators. This article describes Master Gardener Pat Peschman’s experience with developing a bee lawn in her yard and includes some excellent advice. Read More Dormant Seeding, Preparing Your Lawn for Next Year Plant grass seed in your lawn now? We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. Dormant seeding has many benefits, as discussed in this article, but certain methods must be used in order to achieve success. Read on to discover how to dormant seed your lawn. Read More Healthy Lawn Care Believe it or not, fall is the best time to repair your existing lawn. And, with climate weather changes, it is also a good time to consider what type of lawn you want to have in the future. Sometimes it can be perplexing as to where to begin. If you are interested in lawn care, please read this article. Read More The Minnesota Lawn Guide: Attaining and Maintaining the Lawn You Want The Minnesota Lawn Guide, by Melinda Myers will give you tips on growing the perfect lawn in Minnesota. Whether establishing a new lawn, restoring an existing one or fixing spots, this easy to read book will help answer all your questions. Read More What to Do with All Those Leaves? Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . . and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Read More Fall Lawn Care Fall is the best time to prepare for next year’s healthy lawn. Most lawns in Minnesota have cool weather grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall and fine fescues and perennial ryegrass. Read More 1 1 ... 1 ... 1

Trees & Shrubs A Rapid Growing Native Shade Tree: The Birch (Betula spp.) The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. But, hold on, there are facts to understand about various types of birch to ensure that the one that you choose will thrive in your yard. This article focuses on three types of birch that are commonly used in Minnesota. Read More A Tree for All Seasons: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp) For the smaller yard, a smaller tree can be just the right touch. A forty-foot oak might be a bit overpowering, but a so-called “understory tree” can be the perfect landscaping accent to make the house appear to be a welcoming homestead. One excellent candidate is the native Serviceberry. Read More American Beech (Fagus grandifolia): An All American! Think of the majestic forests of the early Midwest and you think of glorious beech trees. They and their cousins, the oaks and chestnuts are the noble components of a climax mesic forest. This magnificent tree has a unique trunk and puts on a beautiful show of color in the fall. But there are some things you need to know to grow this tree successfully. Read this article to learn more. Read More American Holly (Ilex opaca): Deck the Halls! American holly is a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes. But this tree is also a great year-round addition to the landscape. Read this article to learn why. Read More American Smoketree - An American Beauty This month, MG Jim Lakin continues his series on smaller understory native trees with an article on the American Smoketree. This beautiful specimen can be pruned to be a small tree or large bush. It features stunning “smoke-like” clusters of flowers from which its name is derived. Read Jim’s article to learn more about this stunning specimen tree for your yard. Read More Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea): A “Star of the North” It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens but as this article explains, providing greenery in Minnesota winters is just one of the benefits of having a Balsam Fir in your yard. Balsam Fir is a beautiful native tree worth consideration for your part shady yard. Read More Best Time to Prune Trees Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. Read More Beware the Majestic Black Walnut Tree The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape and provides food for wildlife and humans. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Read this article to understand the pros and significant cons of growing a black walnut tree near a garden where you plan to grow flowers or vegetables. Read More Black Chokeberry: Showy but Well-Behaved Read More Black Spruce (Picea mariana): A Northwoods Native As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains, you don’t need to go to the Rhine country in Germany to see a cathedral of natural majesty. This month, Jim profiles the mighty and beautiful Black Spruce (pices mariana). Black Spruce is native to Minnesota and can grow to 50-100 feet under the right environmental conditions. But other varieties have been developed for landscape use. Read on to learn more about this magnificent conifer. Read More Buckthorn Removal Ah yes, the dreaded B word … Buckthorn! This noxious invasive species threatens residential, woodland areas, waters and grassland areas. Unfortunately, buckthorn is a multi-year commitment as the seeds in the soil can germinate for many years. So, you ask, what kind of treatment plan should you use? Read on for tips to use in removing this invasive plant. Read More Buttonbush (Queen of the Wetlands) Buttonbush is a great shrub for naturalizing in wet areas and attracts butterflies. Read more about its attributes. Read More 1 2 3 4 1 ... 1 2 3 4 ... 4

Edible Plants Edible Plants A Personal Nod to the First Harvest Vegetable, the Honorable Radish The radish is a star of the harvest as it has a quick three-week turn around. It is also great in a salad and even a salsa. But Master Gardener intern Liz Townley, was intrigued with her mother’s practice of eating a radish on buttered white bread – the radish sandwich. She dug deep to find the origins of this practice, before finally trying the radish sandwich herself. Read this entertaining article on the joys of the humble radish sandwich. Read More Beyond Salads – Using the Bountiful Cherry Tomato Harvest If you have had a successful cherry tomato growing season, you may be looking at overwhelming quantities of cherry tomatoes. Especially if you planted more than one cherry tomato so you could have the rainbow of red, orange, yellow, and black/chocolate varieties! While there are many willing recipients who will gladly take your excess cherry tomatoes (including food shelves), there are also many delicious and nutritious recipes for you to enjoy. Read More Bitter Melon – The Bumpy, Spiky Gourd Loved ‘Round the Sub-Tropical World’ How about growing “bitter melon” for a change of pace. You may not be familiar with this vegetable as it is more widely grown in the tropics and subtropics. But bitter melon can be grown in Minnesota and has many health benefits. Read on to learn more about how to grow this lesser-known vegetable and when you are finished, read the Garden to Kitchen article about how to use bitter melon. Read More Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts are one of the few crops usually harvested in late fall – late September through late October, depending on your location. Flavor improves with cooler fall weather and they can stay in the garden as long as temperatures remain above 20°F. Read more about how to grow and enjoy this late season vegetable. Read More Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels sprouts need a northern garden environment to thrive. Cool autumn air and frost intensifies the sugars in the sprouts, enhancing their flavor. This characteristic means that brussels sprouts are often the last plants standing in a Minnesota garden. Read on to learn more about Brussels sprouts and discover the best way to care for sprouts from late summer through harvest. Read More Butternut Squash – The Best Flavor of All Winter Squash? December marks the beginning of winter – the time of year when winter squash seems like just the right vegetable to enjoy. Butternut squash is often described as having the best flavor of all winter squash. After you enjoy eating butternut squash this winter, you will want to grow some of your own next spring. Read on to learn how to grow butternut squash successfully. Read More Carrots and Parsnips Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your garden for eating in the winter. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. Learn more about how to grow and enjoy these healthy and tasty vegetables. Read More Cat-Grass Learn how to grow your own! Many cats like a little salad now and then – cat-grass that is. Grass is not a necessity if your cat its eating a well-balanced diet. But cats can enjoy it and grass provides environmental enrichment for an indoor cat. With the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Read More Chocolates From Sweet Potatoes Do you love sweet potatoes but have trouble growing them? Well, you’re not alone. Read how Master Gardener Anita Oakman managed to find a way to serve her skinny sweet potatoes that fooled and pleased her sweet potato loving mother-in-law. You might love this recipe, too! Read More Discover Delicata Squash? Delicata Squash is favored for its delicate, edible skin. No peeling necessary! This squash is booming in popularity. Here are some growing tips. Read More Eating Jicama Jicama is a light brown skinned root vegetable that can usually be found in the produce section of most major supermarkets, and more commonly in Hispanic and Asian markets. Peeling away its leathery, toxic skin with any kitchen knife or vegetable peeler reveals an opaque white, fibrous flesh that can be enjoyed raw or cooked. Read on to learn how to use this interesting vegetable Read More Eating Winter Melon Looking for a comfort food that can come straight from your garden? Try this recipe using winter melon. Winter melon, also known as ash gourd, is a fruit native to parts of Southern Asia. The fruit grows on a vine and matures into a round or oblong melon that is approximately the same size and color as a watermelon. When it is ripe, it’s exterior turns a greenish-powdery ash-color. It tastes a bit like cucumber and is delicious in the soup described in this article. Read More 1 2 3 4 5 1 ... 1 2 3 4 5 ... 5

< Back Keeping Your Garden Looking Good in the Fall By the time we get to the State Fair and Labor Day weekend, your garden might be looking as tired as you feel. What happens to your garden is often a reflection of your time, energy and dedication to your craft. But I get it, you weathered the heat waves, the constant watering, spraying for pests, and now, you are just tired of giving attention to what’s left blooming or showing any signs of life. But it doesn’t have to be that way! Fall can be a time for renewal and added vigor to your gardens. Read this article for strategies to keep you garden looking great into the fall. Liz Townley, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern By the time we get to the State Fair and Labor Day weekend, your garden might be looking as tired as you feel. What happens to your garden is often a reflection of your time, energy and dedication to your craft. I get it, you weathered the heat waves, the constant watering, spraying for pests, and now, you are just tired of giving attention to what’s left blooming or showing any signs of life. But it doesn’t have to be that way! Fall can be a time for renewal and added vigor to your gardens. How many times does it look like you have fought the good fight keeping your annuals up and in swoops a deer that chomps off all the flowerheads? Or the heat waves have caused your plants to look leggy or under distress? If you have ever done a room renovation in your home, it might just be time for a garden renovation, often called ‘The August Reset.’ Ideally, you would like to see something always blooming. Fall flowers and foliage can team up to give you those final weeks of glory. Photo credit University of Minnesota Extension Plan and reset Generally, we think of garden planning as a spring activity. But fall is a perfect time to take note of what plants worked and what did not and make some late-season adjustments. You can see where animals and insects took some care to ruin leaves, produce, and roots. Maybe it is time to move a plant that is not doing well now that the temperatures are cooling down. Do you like the colors in your fall garden or are you finding yourself staring at the traditional fall colors of yellow, orange and rust? They can be just beautiful. Yet, adding some nontraditional colors can add a little flavor to your garden: reds, purples, whites and even pinks! Think about rosy Autumn Joy Sedum, purple Aster, pink mums, or purple Turtlehead. Ornamental Kale can add an interesting look to the fall garden. It may be too late to start from seed for most plants. Although some plants can come up quickly under the right conditions. Just be aware of propagation time to not disappoint yourself! Stay in the zone. See map below: Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension And don’t discount the role of foliage to add interest and even color to your garden, try variegated hostas, sedum, Japanese painted fern, or brunnera. Many shrubs turn into shades of red in the fall, such as: fothergilla, hydrangea, viburnum, dogwood, black chokeberry and sumac. With some planning, you can keep your garden interesting well into the fall. Try cutting back a plant to extend its final surge in growth Some plants – perennials and annuals – will thrive after being pruned back in summer. The best candidates for the one-third prune approach are perennials that bloom on new growth: catmint, salvia, geranium, coreopsis, veronica, and bee balm. Annual blooming flowers like petunias, calibrachoa, lobelia, and verbena - these are the trailing/mounding types that genuinely get leggy – can be rejuvenated with a good trimming. Herbs fall into this same camp, since they also flower and flush out new growth continuously. Basil, mint, oregano, thyme, and tarragon all respond beautifully to a good midsummer trim. Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension Leafy greens thrive in fall temps Here are some leafy greens that are candidates for August planting: kale, bok choy, spinach, chard, mustard greens, and lettuce. They flourish in early fall’s cooler temperatures and are ready to harvest in about 45 days. They are ideal for trellising or raised bed edges. Flowering plants that will work for the fall season Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension Try these suggestions to get some last-minute glory for those cool morning and hot afternoon seasonal shifts. It is always important to get things established before that first frost hits. Purple Coneflower Black Eyed Susans Blanket Flower Obedient plant Salvia Swamp milkweed Hardy Hibiscus Shasta Daisy Whatever, you try, document it for next year. No sense in making the same mistake twice. Weather can be a bit unpredictable during the fall season, so make note of those irregularities. Gardening is more like an artform sometimes. Whatever you choose: greens, flowering, native or nonnative, annuals or perennials, don’t forget to include plants that feed the pollinators as they go into hibernation or migration. They will thank you for your choices of flowering plants. Check out this link to a University of Minnesota Yard and Garden article for pollinator friendly plants. Remember to forge your inner artist and design away! Source: Gardeners swear by the one-third pruning rule to revive tired flower beds MSN Story by Debbie Wolfe Source: 11 heat-loving flowers that keep blooming all August Southern Living - Mary Marlowe Leverette Source of photos: University of Minnesota Extension Office website 2026

< Back The Mystery and Magic Hidden within a Fairy Garden Debbie Mechley, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Long before fairy gardens became a charming decorating trend, forests, springs, and ancient trees were already believed to be alive with something more than roots and water. Across many cultures, these places were thought to be home to nature spirits—quiet guardians of the wild world. The fairy garden you see today, with its tiny doors and mossy paths, is really just the newest chapter in a tradition that stretches back centuries. Enjoy this whimsical trip through a mature fairy garden and lose yourself in the magic. Long before fairy gardens became a charming decorating trend, forests, springs, and ancient trees were already believed to be alive with something more than roots and water. Across many cultures, these places were thought to be home to nature spirits—quiet guardians of the wild world. The fairy garden you see today, with its tiny doors and mossy paths, is really just the newest chapter in a tradition that stretches back centuries. A Garden That Keeps Telling Its Story Mine has been growing—and changing—for the past nine years. Plants have matured, weather has reshaped the landscape in ways I never planned, and new miniature features have found their way in season after season. That's the thing about a fairy garden, much like any garden; it is never truly finished. It simply keeps becoming. The Art of Slowing Down and Looking and Listening Closer There's something a fairy garden asks of you that few other spaces do—it asks you to slow down and observe. Only when you stop and really look do you start to notice the tiny plants, the mosses and lichens, the mushrooms pushing up through the soil, the insects going about their business. Suddenly, an entire miniature ecosystem reveals itself, one that was there all along, simply waiting to be seen. And in that miniature world, the plants are the true stars. Dwarf varieties, creeping groundcovers, slow-growing mosses—each one chosen carefully to create the illusion of a sweeping, full-sized landscape shrunk down to fit in the palm of your hand. Where Imagination Takes Root Gardening has always had a way of sparking imagination, but fairy gardens do something a little different—they invite storytelling. Children and adults alike find themselves imagining who might live among the tiny houses and stone paths, what adventures might unfold there after dark. My grandchildren love to create stories about the elementals. That spark of imagination creates an emotional connection to the garden, one that often grows into a lifelong love of gardening itself. I see this love and inspiration touch my grandchildren's hearts as they enjoy the gardens year after year. It's a connection with deep roots. Nature and folklore have always been intertwined. Stories of fairies, gnomes, elves, and other beings of the wild weren't just charming tales—they were a way for people to express their respect for forests, gardens, and the turning of the seasons. So Much More Than Make-Believe While the tiny houses and fairy doors are all in good fun, the garden itself does something quite real. It becomes a genuine miniature habitat—offering shelter and resources to beneficial insects, pollinators, frogs, birds, and other small creatures, including bunny families, that call it home. Photo credit: Debbie Mechley None of this happens overnight. Some of the most beautiful features in this garden took years to fully develop. Moss spread slowly, plants filled in on their own time, and every season added a little more character than the last. Patience, it turns out, is part of the magic. A Living Breathing Work of Art No two visits to the garden are ever quite the same. Shifting light, a passing rain, an early frost, flowers opening, seed heads forming, butterflies drifting through, birds stopping to visit—each element changes the experience just slightly, a gentle reminder that gardens aren't static decorations. They're living, breathing works of art, always in motion. And maybe that's why wonder is worth cultivating. Whether you believe in fairies, enjoy the folklore, or simply appreciate a beautiful garden for what it is, a fairy garden asks the same of all of us: slow down, notice the small things, and reconnect with the natural world. Photo credit: Debbie Mechley After caring for this fairy garden for nearly a decade, I've learned that its greatest gift isn't whether fairies actually live here—it's that it helps us see the extraordinary beauty hidden in the ordinary, all around us. If you leave here looking a little closer at nature than when you arrived, then the garden has already shared its magic. Please click the link and enjoy a short video of this fairy garden. https://youtu.be/j-FuU8LZ_o0

< Back Growing Cantaloupe Hailey Linneman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Consider a new challenge when deciding what to plant in your vegetable garden next year - a fruit! Specifically, cantaloupe! It can be a challenge to grow cantaloupe in Minnesota but it is possible. And you will be rewarded with a delicious fruit. Cantaloupe require warm soil to thrive but they love our hot, sunny summers. You can achieve success by growing cantaloupe in raised beds, trellising the vines, and making sure they get adequate water, sunlight and protection from pests. Read this article to learn more about growing cantaloupe successfully. Consider a new challenge when deciding what to plant in your vegetable garden next year - a fruit! Specifically, cantaloupe! It can be a challenge to grow cantaloupe in Minnesota (even in smaller spaces) but it is possible. And you will be rewarded with a delicious fruit. Cantaloupe require warm soil to thrive but they love our hot, sunny summers. You can achieve success by growing cantaloupe in raised beds, trellising the vines, and making sure they get adequate water, sunlight and protection from pests. Before you plant your cantaloupe, consider getting a soil test. Melons grow best in well-drained, sandy loam soils, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. A pH lower than 6.0 may result in a failed crop. Next, choose a melon variety that requires fewer days to harvest (65 – 80). This will increase the chances of growing the fruit in hot, sunny conditions. Decide if you want to start your seeds indoors or sow directly into your garden. Starting seeds indoors will give you a few extra weeks of growth, however cantaloupe are sensitive to root disturbance. You can sow seeds directly into your garden after the danger of frost has passed. Raised beds are ideal options for cantaloupe because the soil will warm up sooner. Additionally, raised beds offer good drainage, which is important for growing melons. small growing cantaloupe; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman To save space in your garden beds, you can trellis your melons. As the plants grow, tie them loosely to your trellis. Eventually, they will continue to grow around the trellis without your help. Depending on the size of your fruit, they may need extra support in the form of hammocks. You can use old nylons or t-shirts for this. However, if the vines are securely on the trellis, they should be able to hold the hanging fruit on its own. melon in sling; Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension As your cantaloupe begins to really take off in growth, pruning side shoots will encourage the main stem to continue growing up your trellis. It is also important to prune back side shoots on a trellised plant to avoid overcrowding and encourage air flow. Cutting off all leaves and side shoots on the bottom 12 inches of the plant will also help to avoid diseases from water splashing on the plant. A pest you may encounter is the striped cucumber beetle ( Acalymma vittatum ). It is yellow with three vertical black stripes. To remove the beetles, knock them into a cup of soapy water. The beetles feast on the foliage and blossoms of flowering plants. It is especially important to manage these pests when the plants are small. Read this article to learn more about the striped cucumber beetle. Striped cucumber beetles can carry the bacteria that causes bacterial wilt. Since melons are susceptible to bacterial wilt, monitor your plants for signs of the disease. Read more about bacterial wilt in this article . Other pests to watch for are spotted cucumber beetle, squash vine borer, squash bug, spider mites and aphids. striped cucumber beetle; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman Cantaloupe require 35 – 45 days to mature after flowering. When your fruit is ready to harvest, it will turn from green to yellow and the netting on the skin will become rough. You will also notice that the stem will start to turn brown. To harvest, twist the fruit gently. It should break away easily. Now, it’s time to slice open your melon and enjoy the fruit of your labor! maturing, hanging cantaloupe; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/gardening-minnesota/growing-melons-home-garden Cucumber beetle link: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/cucumber-beetles Bacterial wilt link: https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/bacterial-wilt

< Back Early Spring Blooming Plants Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. CROCUS is one of the first bulb plants to peak its head up in early spring. They are a very reliable plant and frost tolerant. They grow 3-6” tall and are available in multiple colors in shades of purple, orange, pink, and white. They like full sun to part shade and prefer a slightly neutral soil pH of 6.0-7.0, but well-draining soil is very important. DAFFODILS are also an early spring plant best known for their bright yellow trumpet shaped flower. They grow in clumps and unlike tulip bulbs, they have little appeal to wildlife. Planting them amongst snowdrops, hyacinths and tulips provides a wonderful array of colors. They tolerate full sun to part shade with a slightly neutral pH soil (6.0-7.0). DWARF IRIS is a fragrant miniature plant that blooms early in the season and grows to about 6-8”. They bloom in two waves in various shades of dark to light blue, and purple making them ideal for borders. They prefer full sun to part shade, good soil drainage, and spread through underground rhizomatous stems filling the garden with beautiful spring blooms. HYACINTH loves full sun to part shade in a well-drained soil with pH close to neutral (7.0). This plant is well suited to Zones 4-8 and range in height from 6-12”. This plant has a very fragrant flower with tiny blooms resembling bunches of grapes. TULIPS bloom early in the spring season along with daffodils and crocus. They do best in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5. Colors include orange, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and numerous multi colors that grow to 12-18” tall. EASTER LILY – Lilies are very flamboyant with beautiful flowers and an intensely sweet fragrance. Easter lilies are white in color although there are numerous types of lilies such as Asiatic and Oriental hybrids that come in many colors. The lily is an upright perennial that ranges in height from 2-8’ tall. Don’t forget, once that easter lily is done blooming, cut the stems down and plant the bulb in the garden so you can enjoy it again next spring. Lilies grow best in slightly alkaline (6.5-7.0) moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter. Fall is the time to plant the bulbs for most of these plants, so, if you haven’t planted any of these spring delights in your garden yet, I hope you are inspired to do so this year. Then look forward to a rainbow of color in the spring. Photo Credits: Carolyn Plank (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Julie Weisenhorn, University of Minnesota Extension (3), Woodies Garden Goods (4 - Creative Commons License) (4), Pixnio (Creative Commons License) (5), MaxPixel (Creative Commons License) (6)

< Back Tomato Harvesting A BLT Lovers Guide to the Picking Process Tom Molitor and Scott Soltis, Dakota County Master Gardeners It’s August in Minnesota, the summer solstice is in the rear-view mirror, the neighborhood is still ringing with the sound of July 4th exploding fireworks, and your backyard garden is also exploding with Cherokee Purples, Red Romas and Green Zebras. If you’re like any other gardener, you’re probably doing one of two things at the moment: staring lovingly at your green vined tomatoes, or aggressively imagining them fully ripe on your kitchen counter. This article has some helpful tips for harvesting tomatoes successfully. The timing may surprise you! Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension Thanks to the June rain (plus whatever diligent watering you've managed to keep up with), those tomato plants are filled with fruit, the finish line is finally in sight, and maybe, just maybe, you’ve already experienced that early-summer joy of plucking the first, sun-warmed cherry tomato of the season and eating it right there, dirt and all. But here is where we backyard growers can get nervous. This is Minnesota. Our weather loves to throw curveballs, and waiting too long to harvest means losing our hard work to such things as sudden hailstorms (yes, it’s a thing), persistent pests, or even an early autumn frost. Harvesting your tomatoes at the right time ensures the best flavor and prevents loss to pests or extreme weather. When trying to get perfect flavor while protecting your harvest, one logical trick is to ripen tomatoes indoors without sacrificing taste by picking fruits when they reach their mature size and begin changing color (the "breaker stage"). Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need to leave your tomatoes on the vine until they are fully red. In fact, pulling them a little early is often the smartest move you can make. For that perfect tomato, let’s talk about picking (the When and the How), along with post-harvest secrets of the storage process. When to Pick The Breaker Stage: The ideal time to harvest is when the tomato is blushing (about 30% to 40% full color). Once they reach this stage, they are as sweet as they will ever be. Hot or Wet Weather: If you are expecting a heatwave (over 90 degrees Fahrenheit) or heavy rain, pick blushing tomatoes immediately. This prevents sunscald and splitting. Firmness: Gently squeeze the tomato. It should feel firm with just a slight, soft give. Photo Credit: www.ruralsprout.com How to Pick Do Not Pull: Pulling the fruit can damage the main stem and invite disease. Use Pruners: Ideally use sharp bypass pruners or scissors to clip the stem about 1–2 inches above the fruit. This allows the small green cap (calyx) to stay on the fruit, prolonging its freshness. Handle Gently: Tomatoes bruise easily, so place them in a single layer in a basket or tray. Harvest Process Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to place tomatoes. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade and should not be used. Clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) are recommended when picking tomatoes of any size or color. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing tomatoes into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce. Discard tomatoes that have signs of nibbling, and or have visible animal feces on them. Post-Harvest & Storage Ripening Indoors: Leave partially colored tomatoes on your kitchen counter. Cover them loosely with a tea towel. One way to speed the process naturally, is to place a ripe banana or apple nearby. Important Storage Warnings: It is not a good practice to place fresh tomatoes in the refrigerator. Temperatures below 55°F ruin the texture, leaving the flesh mealy and flavorless. We have such a short growing season in Minnesota we want to be ready to harvest tomatoes, for a multitude of uses such as: Sauces & soups Salads & salsas: e.g. caprese salads, bruschetta, and gazpacho; Sandwiches & toppings (BLT-the greatest sandwich) Preserves-jams jellies and Skincare: Tomato extracts are naturally rich in vitamin C and are frequently used in home remedies to brighten skin and reduce dark spots. No matter which of these are your reasons to grow tomatoes, our common goal is a productive growing season and a great harvest. For a clear visual demonstration of the perfect time to pick and how to harvest without damaging the plant see these videos: video 1 , video 2 (1, 2). The resources below also include a brief description of tomato problems including pests (3) and more on growing and harvesting vegetables in your garden (4). These last two resources are University of Minnesota Master Gardener articles. In addition, there is a fascinating article from a Master Gardener from the University of Vermont on the History of the Tomato (5). Who knew tomatoes originated from the Aztecs? You have worked hard to produce beautiful, delicious tomatoes in your garden. Complete the process by smart harvesting and storage techniques. Then – enjoy! Photo Credit: www.clamorworld.com Resources. The Perfect time to harvest a tomato. Joe Gardener https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LedqNa6g80k ; Harvesting Tomatoes . Penn State Extension. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-koSjUj7kU ; Tomato Problems : Janice Gestner, Master Gardener | DCMGV Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/bythemonth/tips-for-safely-growing-and-harvesting-vegetables-and-fruit-in-your-garden ; A History of Tomatoes | University of Vermont Homegrown tomatoes by John Denver. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwRn7A-TWrQ ;

< Back Spring is the Time for Wedding Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the season for weddings which prompts Master Gardener Joy Johnson to think about Italian Wedding Soup. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings; it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Read and learn how to make this soup part of your soup rotation – any time of the year. And, as a bonus, learn how to make Apple Butter to enjoy with your soup! It is so exciting that spring has arrived in Minnesota, I’ve doubled the size of my vegetable garden this year and started dozens of vegetables in early spring in the house. Now it’s time to put them out into the garden. They are all still young plants, many weeks away from harvest. But I am anticipating a bountiful harvest, so I need to use up what I canned, dried and froze from last year’s harvest to make room for this year’s produce. Spring is also the season for weddings, which makes my mind wander to Italian Wedding soup , which I love. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings, it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Usually, this soup takes a long time to make because it traditionally has tons of tiny little meatballs. Instead, I season ground chicken with lots of herbs and spices and then brown it. You get all the same flavors and textures without all the work. This soup is made silky and rich by the eggs stirred in at the end that cook into yummy wisps. I serve this soup with my homemade apple butter spread on my sour dough bread, with a glass of my homemade apple juice. I got a fruit steamer last fall and steamed my apples to get a fresh, sugar free, juice. Then I pressure canned the quarts of juice. We’ve been enjoying it all winter long and have just finished our last quart. The recipe for the apple butter makes very good use of the apple chunks that I had frozen last fall and is quick to make using a blender. Italian Wedding Soup Ingredients : ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 lb. ground chicken or turkey 1 medium onion ¼ cup dried parsley 1 T. dried basil 1 T. dried oregano 2 tsp. smoked paprika1 ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese Crushed red pepper flakes Fine pink Himalayan salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 medium carrots, chopped (fresh or frozen) 4 celery stalks, chopped 2 T. finely chopped garlic 8 cups chicken broth 6 cups spinach (fresh or frozen) 10 ounces cheese tortellini 2 T. lemon juice 2 large eggs Process : In a large pot combine the olive oil, chicken, onion, parsley, basil, oregano, paprika, ¼ cup of the Parmesan and a pinch each of red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Place pot over medium-high heat and cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon until the meat is browned and the onion is soft and translucent, 5-8 minutes. Add the carrots, celery and garlic. Cook stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 5 minutes. Add the broth and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the flavors are married, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach, tortellini, and lemon juice. Cook until the tortellini are al dente, 5 minutes more. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Slowly drizzle the egg mixture into the broth, stirring the soup constantly and gently to form thin strands of cooked egg, about 30 seconds. Ladle into bowls and serve, topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. Maple Apple Butter Ingredients : 10 cups chopped apples, fresh or frozen 1 ¼ cups apple juice (or apple cider if you don’t have fresh juice) ½ cup pure maple syrup, plus more as needed 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves Pinch of fine pink Himalayan salt Process : Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a blender, working in batches as needed, combine the apples with the apple juice/cider and blend until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a 9x13-inch baking dish. Add the maple syrup, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt and stir to combine. Roast for 30-35 minutes. Give the apple butter a stir and reduce the oven temperature to 350. Continue roasting, stirring every 30 minutes, for 1 to 1 ½ hours more until the apple butter is thick and golden brown. Taste and add more maple syrup as needed. Discard the cinnamon sticks, if using. Let the apple butter cool. Store refrigerated in airtight glass jars for up to 1 month. I also use this apple butter to make Chai Donuts , but you will have to wait until next month for that recipe! Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-3)

< Back Microgreens - Only Micro in Size Did you think that you would have to wait until spring to grow fresh greens for your dinner table? Not so if you read this article and learn how to grow microgreens indoors. Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens-accept their size! Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens - except their size! A microgreen is a plant in between the sprout stage and the baby stage of development. When we eat microgreens, we are eating the cotyledon (the embryonic leaf or leaves inside the seed) and a few of the plant’s true leaves. There are many benefits to growing and eating microgreens. They go from sowing to harvest in one to three weeks with minimal opportunities for failure. They can be grown indoors year-round. According to research , t hey contain 4 to 40 times more nutrients than full-grown plants. There are many varieties of microgreens available to grow and they all provide a delicious and fresh addition to many meals even in the dead of winter. When selecting your first microgreen variety to grow, something from the mustard family (Brassicaceae)—such as arugula, mustard or radish—is a good place to start as they germinate quickly and have a lot of flavor. Microgreen growing kits are growing in popularity and offer an effortless first foray into microgreen enjoyment. Many seed catalogue companies—"Johnny’s” and “High Mowing Seeds” to name two—have extensive microgreen seed selections complete with growing guides and they also have any supplies needed to start your growing operation. Here is what you will need to grow microgreens at home: 1) Any clean container with drainage holes (existing or added): think mushroom containers, salad mix containers, bottom half of a milk jug or even an egg carton and a tray to set the container in; 2) Seed-starting mix; 3) Organic, non-GMO seed from a reliable seed source; 4) A spray bottle or misting pump-sprayer for watering the delicate seedlings; and 5) A window or grow light or combination of the two; enough to provide 16 hours of light per day and at least 6 hours of darkness. More extensive microgreen growing can be done just as easily by the at-home gardener by upgrading to standard greenhouse growing trays called 1020 flats, high-output grow lights, a fan running on the plants to inhibit the growth of fungus and mold and liquid seaweed nutrients added to the water to boost nutrient values after seed germination. When starting your microgreens, ensure your seed-starting mix is tamped down, moist (but not too wet) and about 1.5 inches in depth. Your seed source or packet should have variety-specific directions for how thickly to sow seeds in your container. Keeping the seeds moist and in contact with the growing medium until germination, is essential. A seed sprouting lid works well as do damp paper towels. When the seeds have fully germinated and there are visible roots coming through the drain holes in your container, you can start watering from the bottom to reduce the risk of fungal growth and damaging or flattening your plants during watering. Microgreens are tender, delicate and best when eaten raw after minimal handling. Harvesting should occur when the plants are between 2 and 4 inches tall and have at least one true leaf. Cut the plants off just above the level of the soil, lightly wash and completely dry in a salad spinner and enjoy. Cut greens can be stored in a closed plastic container or bag in the fridge for up to three days and washed before enjoying. Alternately, washed greens can be stored after completely drying them using kitchen or paper towels. Enjoy your fresh and vibrant greens on almost anything; sandwiches, salads, pasta, pizza, stir fry or all on their own. There is an abundance of reliable micro greens resources on the internet—here are a few: https://themicrogardener.com/easy-guide-to-growing-microgreens/ https://microgreensworld.com/ https://extension.psu.edu/a-step-by-step-guide-for-growing-microgreens-at-home Photo credits: Joanna Kapke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Succulents - It Is What to Grow in July Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener In May, the annuals were planted, but as the hot and dry days of July arrive are some of your annual planters looking overgrown or have they lost their curb appeal? Are your children still wanting to play in the dirt? Then look no further than the world of succulents. Succulents can easily be added to existing planters to refresh the look or they can be planted alone in a container. Explore with your child what makes succulents so unique and start planting! What is so unique about a succulent ? Succulents store water in their leaves - it allows them to survive in hot/dry conditions. Waxy coverings on the leaves help retain moisture and their root systems are not deep which allows for quicker water absorption when there is not much water available. Succulents come in all shapes, sizes and textures and their colors and markings vary as well. Lithops - look like stones or pebbles Sedums - small leaves form in clusters - usually round leaves Echeverias - often resemble a flower - leaves are thick and arranged in rosettes Cacti – yes, a cactus is a succulent - but as they say, all succulents are not cacti; spiky thick stems Cacti Planting our Succulent Planter Succulents can be added to an existing planter if the correct conditions and soil exist, but if they don’t, start by picking an empty planter where your succulents can receive a lot of indirect sunlight. Succulents come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors so let your child choose 3-5 succulent plants depending on the size of your planter. Most succulents will do well in shallow planters, but any will do. Let’s get planting! Gather the following : Succulents (1-5 based on size of container) Planter/Container - well draining and shallow is better Succulent/Cacti Soil - well draining soil Pebbles/Small River Rock for top dressing (optional) Planting Time Child can choose succulents - choose an appropriate number to fit the container Children can fill the planter with succulent/cacti soil, leaving about ½” to 1 “from rim of planter Before planting - arrange succulents in planter; once you have decided on the best arrangement, then planting can begin Succulent leaves can be fragile and can break off easily so please use caution when planting. If you have chosen to plant cacti then it will be helpful to have rubberized gloves on and possibly use a tong to place the cacti in the pot. Dig small hole for the succulent; place succulent in hole and then gently fill in around plant. Repeat the process above until all succulents are planted. Watering/Sunlight Key to watering is less is best . Succulents can thrive with little water. Invite your child to water, but emphasize that less water is needed for succulents. The best method for watering succulents is to thoroughly water the succulent until the soil is saturated (runs through) and then allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Succulents may dry out quicker when outside, but do not overwater. Sunlight is important to succulents; however, it’s best not to place the plant in direct sun, but instead bright indirect sunlight. Enjoy your new summer creation - the Succulent Planter. Don’t forget your new creation can be brought inside in the Fall when temperatures begin to cool. The succulent planter is a great addition to your “garden” - inside and out. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1,2), www.pexels.com (3,4)

< Back No More Stringy Petunias! Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. Read this article to learn what to do to keep your beautiful petunias looking full and fluffy. Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on, petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. So, what to do? Yank them out and put new ones in? Give up on them and replace them with a hardier plant, maybe a marigold? However, between replacing petunias and giving up on them altogether there is a third option: pruning them. Read on to learn how to prune petunias successfully. Pruning petunias will keep them full and fluffy all summer long. There is some work involved, but replacing petunias with more petunias or other flowers is also work. And not only that, it’s expensive and it involves running around to big box stores and nurseries to see if either one has any decent flowers left. In addition, pruning your petunias keeps your original design and color scheme in place and involves only minutes of work throughout the summer. To keep petunias blooming prolifically we must remember their mission, in fact the mission of all plants: to perpetuate the species. When the bloom on a petunia drops off its pod it creates a seed which will hopefully go on to create another petunia. Having accomplished its mission, the petunia dies in peace, leaving behind leggy and scraggly branches without flowers. The point of pruning is to send the opposite message to the petunia: you have not completed your mission. You have not set seed (because I have cut off all your seed pods). You must keep blooming, staying full and fluffy, until I decide to stop cutting them off (usually sometime in September, or sooner if we have an early frost). See the photo where the woman is about to cut off the pod where the bloom once grew? You must trim the petunia BEHIND THAT pod, which holds the seed, to convince the petunia she still has work to do and must continue to produce blooms. Petunias have many blooms and their seed pods often hide underneath the bottoms of branches, behind other blooming flowers. If you leave pruning them until they start to look “scraggly”, you may spend anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours pruning your petunias. It’s a tedious mission of search and destroy. There is an easier way . Buy a small pair of pointed scissors with colorful handles (so you can spot them in the soil) available at the Dollar Store or Michaels. In fact, buy one for every pot and bed of petunias if they are at some distance from each other. Stick the scissors point down into the pot or bed next to your petunias. Any time you are out in your yard inspecting or admiring your garden, check your petunias for spent blossoms and spend a minute or two cutting off the empty pods. A minute or two every day or so equals enough time to keep your petunias glorious all season. You can also prune for shape and form. If, in spite of your consistent pruning, your petunias develop leggy branches, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch in front of the new growth . You can also prune any branches that are not keeping to the design or shape you wish. Again, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch right in front of it. Do this consistently and the work will be minimal. Your petunias will outdo themselves producing blooms to complete their mission and you will enjoy full and fluffy petunias all summer! References: https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/growing-petunias https://icultivate.net/how-to-prune-petunias / https://www.epicgardening.com/prune-petunias/ https://www.gardendesign.com/how-to/prune-petunias.html Photo Credits: UMN Extension (1,4 ), Susan Ball (2,3)