< Back Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Click on this link to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Read on to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. I thought this article would be simple to write, but as it turns out, it is a much more complicated topic than I thought. Many gardeners understand the psychological benefits of having living plants around us. According to the American Horticultural Society, indoor plants can improve air quality through air purification, reduce stress, improve productivity, and bring beauty to your home. However, some people who have asthma or other lung conditions need to choose what type of plant, if any, is best for them. If you are concerned about allergens in your home, potted plants can be a challenge as the soil, if not properly watered, can create mold. Mold is created in soil from overwatering with limited air circulation and not enough sunlight. The Mayo Clinic suggested that if you do have potted plants in your home, you can put aquarium gravel over the dirt to contain any mold that could develop. Removing dust from your plants periodically also helps with allergies. Flowering plants can also be a challenge for people with airborne allergens. In my research I discovered the Ogren Plant Allergy Scale System (OPALS). It is a standard which considers the likelihood a plant will cause pollen allergy symptoms. Plants are ranked on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most allergenic. This system can be used for trees, shrubs, and other plants (indoors and outdoors). While researching, I did discover that there were many lists to cross reference and it was confusing as some of the lists said they were allergen friendly and other lists said they were not. So, I am including some of the most common plants that showed up on multiple lists realizing that this is a limited list. There are some colorful plants that produce pollens which are heavier and stickier. These plants will be less likely to cause irritants. Another suggestion is to consider cross referencing this list with a plant list that can cause skin rash sensitivities or are harmful to pets. Snake Plant (also called Mother-In-Law Tongue) Peace Lily Parlor Palm Areca Palm Lady Palm Bamboo Palm Dracaena Golden Pothos Dragon Tree (also called Marginata) Rubber Plant Philodendron Brasil Aloe Vera and other Succulents Horsehead Philodendron Dumb cane String of Pearls So, if you have been avoiding houseplants because of concern about allergies, know that there are houseplants out there that can provide the greenery, color and other benefits of houseplants this winter. Reference: “Healthy Living: How a Lab Founded with Mayo Clinic is Fine-tuning the Indoors”. By Liv Martin, September 13, 2021; Minnesota Monthly. https://ahsgardening.org “The Joys and Benefits of Indoor Gardening” Mayo Clinic website: “Allergy-proof your home” By Mayo Clinic Staff House Digest, “15 Best Houseplants for People with Allergies” by Kailen Skewis, October 16, 2022 Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, “Smart Gardening: Tips for an Allergy-Friendly Garden”, AAFA Community Services, 4/18/18 Good Housekeeping, “10 Best Indoor Plants for your Health According to Research”, by Erica Sweeney, Juley 29, 2022 https://zyrtec.com/indoors “5 .“Best Allergy Friendly House Plants” Https://plantify.co.za Https://flonase.com/allergies , “Best and Worst Indoor Plants for Allergies” Photo Credit: Commons.wikimedia.org-Creative Commons (1), Gardening.stackexchange.com-Creative Commons (2), www.flickr.com-Creative Commons (3)

< Back April - What To Do About Winter Damage Karna Berg, Master Gardener As we think beyond winter to spring, you may encounter winter damage to some of your plants. In this article, Karna Berg reminds us how to give your plants a boost going into winter and how to deal with winter damage in a way that will allow plants to recover and, ultimately, flourish. As you adjust to the cold of our winter, are you already looking ahead to spring? Before we know it, it will be here. In April, we start uncovering a few plants, anxious to find them poking their noses out of the mulch and leaves. Unfortunately, as we continue that process, we find plants that have not made it through the winter or have winter damage. What do we do? Hopefully, you watered your plants, especially trees and shrubs, as long as you possibly could in the fall. That gives them a better chance of making it through the winter. And also, you provided your perennial beds with a nice blanket of mulch and leaves. In fact, as the first snows hit us, we can carefully shovel some of that snow under the lower branches of our conifers to act as a cushion and help the branches stay upright when the ice or extremely wet snow falls on them. While it is tempting to try to remove snow and ice from our plants after a heavy snow, it is generally not a good idea. The only exception to that is for conifers. If you can safely brush some of the snow off those branches, it will help them stay upright. But no matter our fall attempts to prevent winter damage and death, we usually have some of it when spring comes. It’s just hard to avoid all damage, particularly with our erratic weather patterns that bring warm days in March to fool our plants. So, what can we do in spring? First, don’t take off the mulch and leaves too early no matter how tempting that may be. Wait until all chance of severe cold has passed. We all remember that late snowfall or cold. Also, walking on our gardens and lawns too early can cause foot damage. Then, start to assess damage winter caused in your garden. On trees and shrubs (often the plants that experience the most damage), remove dead, dry and damaged foliage. If you find broken branches, cut them back to the stem or back to the first live bud you find. Always leave a little distance from the stem or bud when you do this trimming. And if a limb is bent down but doesn’t appear dead, it may be possible to prop it up and see if it recovers. Again, in our perennial beds, hold back from uncovering them too early. But don’t wait too long or you’ll find pale green limp plants trying to get to the sun. If you have covered your perennials with mulch and leaves, most have probably made it through the winter. Now it’s important to remove those leaves. If not, they will smother the plants and cause mold in your garden. Also, the dreaded jumping worms, which live mainly in the top two inches of soil, love those leaves and will feed on them voraciously. Let’s not give them any reason to fall in love with our garden. Once you have babied a plant along, hoping it will come back to life but it doesn’t, just remove it from your garden. Then plant a native plant in its place. Our native plants are best at dealing with our Minnesota winters. And are also great for pollinators. Remember, when fall comes, water a lot but don’t fertilize your plants. Watch your use of salt during the winter. Then, hope for the best and enjoy spring! Photo credits: Rebecca Finneran, MSU Extension (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3)

< Back Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Not every seed is created equal. Trying to get some of the native perennials to germinate seems to require an Act of Congress. And they’re gridlocked! Not so with the humble but glorious zinnia. In my book, zinnias are some of the most overlooked yet rewarding annuals a Minnesotan could hope for. Although originating in Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., varieties have been developed all over the world. Yet they all still retain their love of warmth and sunlight, a commodity sometimes in short supply up here. Fear not! Simply sew zinnia seeds after the last hard frost and bide your time. As things warm up the seedlings will take care of the rest, producing blooms from late spring, far into the fall. If you have a warm sunny spot inside, you might even consider starting some seeds four to six weeks before the last frost. Unlike some more persnickety plants, zinnias germinate readily. You can set them out in the garden when they get two to four inches tall and enjoy weeks of blooms before the seeds you sewed get in gear. There are many varieties of zinnias ranging in height from 6 inches to 4 feet. I like the older, smaller blooms. They are hardy, fast growing, and tough plants. As I said, they do need full sun and warmth, but ask little else. One fertilization a season usually suffices. They are quite disease resistant. Powdery mildew seems to be the only common malady. It doesn’t look very attractive, but the plants usually survive. To keep them happy and mildew free, select a well-drained location for planting. Zinnias don’t like their feet wet. Mixed zinnias in full summer bloom If you find a variety you really like, consider collecting seeds in the late fall. Just cut off the spent flowers, shake out the seeds onto a sheet of paper, slip them into an envelope and store in the fridge until early next spring to start indoors or sew in the garden a bit later. Either way you will have bold, bright colors to cheer you through the gardening season! Late fall zinnia seed heads ready for harvest Want to learn more about zinnias than you thought there was to learn? Try Eric Grissell’s new book, A History of Zinnias: Flower for the Ages , Perdue University Press, West Layette, IN, 2020. Photo credits: Jim Lakin (1, 2)

< Back A Plain Vanilla Murder and Hemlock Now that your outside garden has been put to bed for the winter, take some time to relax and read some entertaining plant fiction. As reviewer Gail Maifeld explains, reading the mysteries - “A Plain Vanilla Murder” and “Hemlock” by Susan Wittig Albert, is not only fun, it’s educational. Written by Susan Wittig Albert Reviewed by Gail Maifeld The garden is put to bed so put your feet up with two delicious mysteries by Susan Wittig Albert: A Plain Vanilla Murder and Hemlock. Both mysteries incorporate the titled herbs as the premise for the mystery plot and are the two latest books in The China Bayles mystery series. A Plain Vanilla Murder takes place in and around the fictious town of Pecan Springs, Texas. China and Ruby Cox are presenting a workshop entitled Plain Vanilla. China’s workshops are popular but someone at this workshop has a deadly motive. China is puzzled when a dear friend’s daughter disappears, a university professor is found murdered, and a fragile, rare orchid is stolen from the professor’s lab. Much is at stake: plant patent, an orchid that is extinct in the wild, & the life of an innocent girl. Learn about the most taken for granted herb vanilla. Did you know it only grows wild in Chili because that is where the unique insect lives that has the physiology to pollinate vanilla? Hemlock takes China Bayles to the mountains of North Carolina where an old & rare book is missing from the gardening book collection of the Hemlock House Library. This rare book, A Curious Herbal, was written and illustrated in the 1730’s. Hemlock is a compelling mix of mystery and herb lore. A member of the carrot family, hemlock looks like Queen Anne’s Lace and is lethal to humans and animals. The addition of a haunted house, a ghost, the local Hemlock Society, and a shooting, all create an absorbing novel. Learn about Vanilla and Hemlock while enjoying a mysterious romp that includes red herrings and suspicious characters. Photo Credit: Gail Mailfeld (1,2)

< Back What Will This Warm Winter Do To My Plants And Is Dakota County Warmer? Some of us enjoyed our strangely warm winter and others of us mourned the lack of snow and cold temperatures. But for gardeners, the main concerns now center around questions like – what effect will the warm, snowless winter have on my plants; on how I prune my trees and shrubs; and what about the bug population? And looking beyond this year, is Minnesota warming? And, if so, what does that mean for the plants I have or will plant? Read this article for some answers to your questions. Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener & Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener How Will the Warm Winter Affect My Plants This Year? The lack of cold and snow may have some effect on your plants, shrubs and trees but there are some things that you can do now, and in the future, to mitigate the damage. Which plants are likely to be affected depends somewhat on your fall preparation and on other factors, such as the plant species. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension experts have prepared an excellent article that provides answers to all of these questions. Click this link to access a thorough discussion and practical advice for dealing with the effects of our warm winter. How does the 2023 hardiness zone change affect my garden? The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) produces a “plant hardiness zone map,” which is a tool based on average annual extreme winter temperatures. The zone map can help gardeners decide which plants may grow well in their garden. Of course, other factors affect whether a plant will thrive in your garden, notably - soil, sun, water and care. But the zone map is a helpful tool and so is something of which you should be aware. In 2023, the USDA updated the zone maps for the first time since 2012. The 2023 USDA hardiness zone map documents the average minimum temperatures of weather from 1991 to 2020. There are 13 zones in the USDA zone map, divided into 10 degree increments. The larger numbers are warmer zones and smaller numbers are cooler zones. Each zone is also divided into half zones (“a” and “b”) which indicate a 5 degree change in temperature. It’s a pretty good bet that a plant that can thrive in zone 13 is not going to thrive in zone 4. So, the farther south you are the warmer it gets, right? Well, not always. In the 2012 zone map, Dakota county was in the 4b zone . In the 2023 zone map, parts of Dakota County are in 5a (-20 to -15) and others are in 4b (-25 to -20). Significantly, the 2023 map is able to show variations due to “heat sinks” near cities, mountains and bodies of water. In other words, cities tend to hold more heat because they include large areas of concrete and blacktop. Areas of the county closer to the Twin Cities are actually warmer than farther south! But note that more of southwestern Minnesota is now in the 5a zone as well. Being aware of your zone will allow you to make better choices when you buy plants. Plants that were once marginally hardy in the Dakota County area may now have a higher chance of surviving. When you buy a plant at your local nursery, they may have a tag that gives you the zones in which it is hardy. Before, you might have passed over “Reticulated Iris” (zones 5-9). Now, if you live in an area in the (5a) heat sink of the Twin Cities, you might give it a shot. References: blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu Updated USDA hardiness zoning maps Madeline Wimmer, Extension Educator, Fruit Crops Images: The new 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for Minnesota (left) and previous from 2... extension.umn.edu A new plant hardiness zone map from the USDA Using data collected from over 13,000 weather stations during a 30-year period, the new USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map provides higher resolution and more accurate zonal information. Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons), Photo 2 – University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Squash the Holiday Host Competition with a Winter Variety We plant, grow, and nurture our vegetable gardens for the healthy fruits of our fall harvest and also as decorations for our Thanksgiving table and décor. As we look forward to preparing deeply satisfying hearty dishes from a bountiful Fall harvest, winter squash holds a special place at the table. Learn more about two special squash varieties – Sugar Pumpkins and Kabocha Squash in this article. Katie Possis, Master Gardener It’s that time of year when our thoughts turn to celebrating Thanksgiving with family and friends and the joy of decorating for the holiday. We plant, grow, and nurture our vegetable gardens for the healthy fruits of our fall harvest and also as decorations for our Thanksgiving table and décor. As we look forward to preparing deeply satisfying hearty dishes from a bountiful Fall harvest, winter squash holds a special place at the table. Winter squash are fruit that grow on the vine. They are from the genus Cucurbita from the family Cucurbitaceae. There are, of course, subtle differences that set them apart from each other. This article will talk about 2 of the 12 most popular squash varieties along with interesting recipes that excite the taste buds. Sugar Pumpkins Starting with a favorite - Sugar Pumpkins are nutrient packed. For example: one cooked cup of Pumpkin has 49 calories, 76 grams of protein, 17 grams of fat and 1 gram of carbohydrate; a real booster for the immune system. Sugar Pumpkins have thick skin with sweet flesh and are less fibrous than other winter squash. For a new favorite recipe using roasted pumpkin, check out the recipe Pumpkin With Creme Fraiche, Peanut Rayu, Coriander & Spring Onion. - GIY Ireland Ltd for a real treat. Tip for choosing: make sure your pumpkin is heavier than you expect it to be when you pick it up, the skin needs to be firm and a fingernail should not pierce the skin, the stem needs to look like is has died off and is hard. A pumpkin’s stem is the seal between the stalk and fruit. Never lift the pumpkin by the stem as breaking this seal may cause molds and fungal spores which ensure speedy decay. If the pumpkin has been properly cured, it will be beautifully intact for several months. Proper curing takes a few weeks but it’s worth the effort. The pumpkin needs to be dried in the sun, kept away from rain and moisture. Do this for the top side up for 2 weeks then gently flip over for the bottom side to cure for the next two weeks. The curing process can also be accomplished inside next to a sunny window. As this point, the pumpkin is ready to adorn your front steps or buffet table. Kabocha Squash Second up, Kabocha Squash is a Japanese variety of the Cucurbita maxima species. Often used in Japanese and Korean cooking, this squash has a dark green and orange rind. Known for its nutty, earthiness, and with a kiss of sweet flavor, it is a great choice for cooking. The nutritional value of one cup of cooked Kabocha - 49 calories, 1.8 grams protein, 0.2 grams of fat, and 8 grams of carbohydrate. Great news, this squash has a lower glycemic load than a sweet potato which won’t make the blood sugar spike. A great recipe to try is Korean Braised Kabocha Squash - The Plant-Based Wok (theplantbasedwok.com) Enjoy! Tips for growing: the Kabocha squash can be grown in full sun 6-8 hours on a trellis which gives height and interest to your garden landscape. The trellis will need a minimum of two to three supports hammered into the ground deep enough for the frame to hold the heavy plant laden with large fruit. The benefits of trellising for the plant are great air circulation and room to grow as each plant will need approximately 10 to 15 feet in length. The rich deep green of the Kabocha squash pairs nicely with orange pumpkins, yellow spaghetti squash, and blues of the Hubbard of the winter squash to create a visual feast for the eyes. Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), Foodblogga.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Tomato Problems Homegrown tomatoes are the highlight of a summer garden. In this article you will learn some very helpful tips to achieve the best possible harvest. Janice Gestner, Master Gardener Tomatoes (Solanium lycopersicum) are among the most commonly grown vegetables by gardeners. The joy of using vitamin-rich, low-calorie tomatoes in fresh summer salads, in sauces, and many more ways make it one of the most versatile vegetables grown. The easiest way to avoid tomato problems is by giving them the site, space, and conditions they want as a plant that originated in South America. Tomatoes along with its Nightshade family members, including eggplants and peppers, love the sun-filled days with temperatures between 65°F and 95°F. They love well-drained, fertile soil, pH numbers between 5.5-7, mulches to regulate soil temperatures and moisture, and plenty of space. Cages, stakes and careful pruning help keep plants clean and less prone to disease. Consistent watering until tomatoes are ripening is also important to overall plant health. Gardeners who carefully follow all of the growing tips for tomato plants will avoid many of the disease and insect issues that can be problems for tender tomato plants. However, sometimes climate conditions, gardening errors, insects and other problems happen. The University of Minnesota Extension site titled “Tomato Disorders” at https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/tomato-disorders provides information about possible disorders. A summary of the information found on this site includes the following: Disorders may be caused by varietal choices. If gardeners have provided good management, trying different tomatoes varieties might be the best answer for the location. Seed catalogs can give information on disease resistant varieties. Blossom-end rot is an issue where fruit has a tan/black flattened spot on the end of the fruit. This is usually caused by inconsistent watering or possibly too heavy rains. The plant has a calcium deficiency that is not usually caused by soil deficiency but the inability for the plant to take up calcium through the roots. Gardeners should remove all tomatoes with the disorder because they will never develop correctly. New fruit coming on the tomato plant may be okay if watering is carefully controlled. Blossom end rot Sunscald can be seen on tomatoes that have a pale yellow or white side surface. It is caused by too much sun, the result of leaf loss due to over-pruning, insect damage or disease damage. The spots can be an entry point for decay, and tomatoes should be picked immediately since they will not develop properly. Continue to harvest developing tomatoes. Sun scald Early blight is caused by either of two pathogens called Alternaria tomatophila and Alternaria solani . They attack the plant either by being blown in on the wind, splash up from contaminated soil, humidity, wet weather, or even from human contact. They usually start at brown spots on the lower part of the plant. Safe practices to avoid the contamination include watering low to the ground and adding mulch around the plants to avoid soil splash up. Prune away any leaves on the low part of the plant that you see with brown spots. It is okay to remove up to a third of the bottom leaves if necessary. Be sure to wash your hands and clippers to avoid passing the fungus on to other plants. Early blight Growth cracks circling the stems on tomatoes may happen because of fast growth. Heavy rains and high temperatures can also cause these cracks. Regulating watering is the best way to try to avoid the condition. Tomatoes can be used if you cut off the cracking area and use the rest of the tomato. Growth cracks Healthy tomato plants depend upon us to provide the best growing conditions we can provide as described above. Remember to rotate tomato crops to other sunny sections of the garden to avoid leftover pathogen and tomato problems from past years. Last, sometimes gardeners do everything correctly, but weather conditions may still control the harvest outcome. There is always a new year to try again. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Foxglove Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) can be a charming addition to your landscape. In this article you will learn about its interesting history and growing tips. In the year 1785 the English physician William Withering published An Account of the Foxglove, describing the medicinal features of extracts of this native perennial in the treatment of dropsy. That was a term for the swelling associated with severe congestive heart failure. This was the first account of its use in the medical profession, yet herbalists had been using foxglove tea to treat heart failure for centuries before. The only drawback of this “miracle cure” was that too much of a good thing could quickly dispatch the tea imbiber. The pharmacologically active agent in foxglove is digitalis, a drug still used today to treat heart failure and disturbances of heart rhythm. Digitalis, like foxglove has a narrow therapeutic range. Too much can cause serious side effects, including death. If, however, you are not prone to munching on your garden perennials, you will find that Digitalis purpurea is a charming addition to your landscape. Although originally native to most of Northern Europe, it has naturalized to the Upper Midwest where it grows as an herbaceous biennial or short-lived perennial. That is to say, a given plant usually lives two to three years but plentifully reseeds. Thus, if a garden area is left undisturbed, germination should provide an ongoing colony of Foxglove. In the first year, the plant forms a tight rosette on the ground. The second year a 3 to 6 foot stem develops with spirally arranged 3 x 2 inch or larger leaves. The flowers are arranged in a showy, terminal, elongated cluster. Each flower is tubular hanging downward. The “finger like” flower shape is reflected in the name Digitalis . These flowers are typically purple, but some plants, especially cultivars, of which there are many, may be pink, rose, yellow, or white. Foxglove tends to bloom in late spring to early summer with occasional shows later in the season. Digitalis purpurea prefers partial sunlight to deep shade, being a forest understory dweller. It frequently pops up in areas where the soil has been recently disturbed. Some accounts maintain that skin contact with foxglove can be harmful, so it is best to wear gloves when handling it. Although it can be grown from seed, this can be a little tricky and germination rates are not all that high. It’s probably a better bet to purchase a potted plant in the spring and enjoy the spectacular show that Foxglove provides. And remember, no nibbling the plants! Photo credits: www.abebooks.com (1), publc domain (2)

< Back Trifecta of Small Fruits Ride along with Margie Blare as she provides winning advice about how to grow “small fruits” - strawberries, raspberries and blueberries - in an entertaining, tongue-in-cheek style. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Excitement at the Garden Track! Learn how to beat the odds and win the small fruits (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries) race in your garden. 1st race: Maiden Race - Track Prep All tracks need full sun, good drainage and air circulation. Test soils before planting. Soil pH needs: Strawberry needs a soil pH of 6-7.0 Raspberry needs 5.5-6.5 pH Blueberry needs 4.0-5.0 pH 2nd race: Planting Stakes Race 3rd race: Maintenance Claiming Race 4th race: The Harvest Home Derby Strawberry out of Hija X Deckard (0.5” to 6”) Jockeys: Ever Bearing (spring and fall harvest), June Bearing (spring harvest) and Day Neutral (all season). Racing strategies: Remove flowers during year one to grow a better root system. Plant new crowns above soil level 12-18” apart. Runners should be pruned; leave enough daughter plants to replace diseased, non-productive crowns or plants older than four. Change track location every 4 years to stop build-up of diseases and insects. Renovate the bed after harvest. New leaves will re-grow quickly. Remove last year's mulch, add fresh mulch. Strawberry wins The Harvest Home Derby around 2-4 years-old. Refrigerate if not using immediately. Discard berries that are bird/insect damaged or diseased. Raspberry out of Hedgehog X Shillelagh (2'-5') Jockeys: Primocane Fall-Bearing (fall harvest),and Floricane Ever-Bearing (spring and fall harvest). Racing strategies: Raspberries need to be cross-tied in order to win the Harvest Home Derby. Posts and wires work well. In early spring, plant red and yellow raspberries about 2-3' apart, spreading the roots. Rows wider than 12” impede harvesting. Black and purple raspberries form 'hills' with primocanes sprouting from the crown. Plant in rows four feet apart. Feed Raspberry frequently. Annual pruning increases productivity and reduces disease. 2-3” of mulch controls weeds and conserves moisture. Mosquito netting can exclude pests, but can also exclude pollinators. Use support and pruning to control the spread of black and purple varieties; when arching canes touch the ground, they root. At two years, Raspberry will win The Home Harvest Derby as the berries develop full color. Raspberry keeps 2-3 days in the refrigerator. Pick berries daily, with clean hands; afterward, pick all uneatable berries and dispose of them. Blueberry out of Boreal X Peewee (4”-12') Jockeys: Northern Highbush (up to 12'), Half-bush (3-4'), Low bush (2-3'), Dwarf (1-2') Racing Strategies: Add amendments before planting. Use a raised bed or 'hill' your Blueberry. Blueberry needs a pollinator of a different variety to win the Harvest Home Derby. Dig a hole twice the size of the pots your blueberries came in. Loosen the roots and spread as much as possible. Remove flowers during year one to grow a better root system. Roots are shallow; keep the water bucket handy! Acidify your water with 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 gallon of water. Mulch to retain moisture; keeping it 6” away from the trunks. Replace mulch annually to control diseases. Animals can be excluded with appropriate height fencing. Insects and birds can be mostly excluded with mosquito netting, (except during flowering). Blueberries can be early, mid or late season producers. Blueberry will start winning races in 2-4 years. He wins The Harvest Home Derby by year. He may take 8 years to reach full maturity. For more information on growing these and other fruits go to the University of Minnesota Extension Yard and Garden website and search “Growing [insert fruit] in the Home Garden.” Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1) & University of Minnesota Extension (2,3)

< Back Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest by Suzanne Simard A family's dog fall into an outhouse on a camping opened up a new world to a young girl - fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. The young girl grew up to become a forest ecologist and educator. Suzanne Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener “This is not a book about how we can save the trees. This is a book about how trees might save us.” A family's dog falls into the outhouse on a camping trip in a Canadian forest. Uncles, aunts, grandparents, and parents all begin to dig out the poor creature, clearing away leaves from the forest floor, ripping up several feet of tree roots, and overturning several feet of earth. What a young girl sees, though, is not just the tree roots or the dirt itself, but a whole world under the ground: fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. That young girl grew up to become the forest ecologist and educator Suzanne Simard, a woman whose academic research would lead her back to the world beneath our feet. She began studying the fungal networks of mycelia and the ways that trees communicate with one another through root systems, and discovered that the oldest and most established trees—what she calls mother trees—direct the sharing of resources amongst all the flora of the forest. Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Her work appeals to gardeners, naturalists, and scientists alike. For more, her 2016 TED Talk educates on mycelia and mother tree communication, culminating in her advice for all to get out into local forests, to save old growth forests, for loggers to save the mother trees when logging occurs, and for logging companies to regenerate our forests wisely after logging. Simard’s book Finding the Mother Tree goes further still. This is not a dry or stuffy read, but an adventure story. Simard shares her fascinating field research in clear prose, telling stories about her sometimes-eccentric Canadian family of loggers and campers. Readers end with a deeper knowledge of how the natural world works and deeper appreciation for our human responsibility in protecting it. SOURCES : https://mothertreeproject.org https://suzannesimard.com Simard, Suzanne. Finding The Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest . New York, NY: Knopf Publishing, 2021. “How Trees Talk To Each Other,” TED. 2016 https://www.ted.com/talks/suzanne_simard_how_trees_talk_to_each_other ? language=en Photo credit: book jacket

< Back The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Who knew that the life of an “agricultural explorer” could be both fascinating and suspenseful. Read this review of book, “The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats” to learn why food exploration can be exciting! Reviewed By Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener A century ago, the American table was a simpler place. Vegetables and fruit were limited to what could be grown in the home garden or found in a grocery store. Some of the items missing from that world? Kale, mangoes, avocados, seedless grapes, zucchini, soybeans, pistachios, Meyer lemons, and more. Then along came botanist David Fairchild (1869-1954), the Indiana Jones of the plant world. In his book The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats (2018), author David Stone uses Fairchild’s journals, letters, and photographs to document the extraordinary journeys of the man who changed American culinary life forever. This is a riveting tale of exploration and horticulture, of espionage and diplomacy, of the finest German hops and the famed cherry blossom trees of Washington, D.C. Fairchild’s story takes him from Kansas to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, where he works with a meager budget assisting the American farmer fighting crop fungus. Then a chance meeting with a wealthy benefactor named Barbour Lathrop allows the young man to leave his post and travel as a private citizen, circling the globe on a mission to ship back samples of exotic plants and seeds as an “agricultural explorer,” as he refers to himself. Fairfield’s team transports both plants completely new and foreign varieties of species already known in the United States. Along the way, Fairchild and his team escape dangerous situations, face political resistance from multiple governments, and cross paths with famous figures like the Wright Brothers and Alexander Graham Bell. When Fairchild settles down at the age of 34, he founds the Office of Seed and Plant Introduction with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which introduces over 200,000 new plant species and varieties to the country. This book is highly recommended to foodies, gardeners, and history buffs alike. It can be found in the Dakota County Library system.

< Back Make Your Own Terrariums By Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Terrariums are miniature gardens that can bring a touch of nature to any room, making them the perfect project for kids who love getting their hands dirty and learning about the environment. Not only are they fun and easy to create, but they also teach children responsibility and patience as they watch their plants grow and thrive. Here are some tips for getting your little ones involved in planting and caring for their own terrariums. 1. Choose a container The first step in creating a terrarium is choosing a container. This can be anything from an old mason jar to a fishbowl. It’s important to make sure the container is clear so that your child can easily see the plants growing inside. 2. Select the plants Next, let your child choose the plants they want to include in their terrarium. Succulents and cacti are great options as they’re low-maintenance and can survive in a variety of conditions. Other plants to consider are moss, ferns, and air plants. It’s important to choose plants that have similar care requirements and will grow well together in a closed environment. 3. Layer the soil and gravel Place a layer of gravel at the bottom of the container for drainage, then add a layer of potting soil. This will give the plants the necessary nutrients to grow. You can also add a layer of activated charcoal to prevent odors and keep the soil fresh. 4. Plant and decorate Let your child get their hands dirty and help them plant the chosen plants in the soil. They can also add decorative elements such as small figurines or rocks to add a personal touch to the terrarium. Encourage them to use their creativity and make it their own. 5. Provide care and maintenance Explain to your child the importance of taking care of their terrarium by watering it regularly and providing adequate sunlight. It’s important to not overwater the terrarium as the enclosed environment can become too damp, causing the plants to rot. Teach your child to pay attention to the signs of when a terrarium needs water, such as dry soil or droopy plants. For more information about building terrariums, watch this video ! Photo credits: All creative commons (1), Cassandrapence.blogspot.com (2)