< Back Where Do Monarch Butterflies Go in the Winter? Julie Harris, Master Gardener Isn’t it fun to watch colorful butterflies fly from one plant to another in our summer gardens? But what happens to butterflies when the weather gets cold? Read about where Monarch butterflies live in the winter and why they choose that spot. Enjoy fun activities with the child in your life and butterflies. Isn’t it fun to watch colorful butterflies fly from one plant to another in our summer gardens? But what happens to butterflies when the weather gets cold? Well, many butterflies migrate or move from Minnesota to warmer places. In those warmer places, butterflies can also find their food sources – flowers. Since flowers in Minnesota don’t bloom in the winter, butterflies need to fly to areas of the world where they do. Some butterflies who already live in warm climates, will move to a different location because if they stay in one place, butterfly caterpillars will eat all of the available food. Butterflies usually start to migrate in September or October, depending on the weather. Monarch butterflies spend their winter in Mexico and Southern California. (Can you find these places on a map?) Monarch butterflies are the only butterflies to migrate so far away (2,500 miles) each year. In Mexico, the butterflies live in oyamel fir trees and return to the same trees every year. What is really strange, is that these butterflies are not the same butterflies who migrated to these Mexican trees in the prior year. These butterflies were born around mid-August and are the great-great-grandchildren of the butterflies who migrated in the earlier year. So, how do the younger monarchs know which trees to fly to? Scientists think that Monarch butterflies rely on instinct, the sun and magnetic compasses to know where to go. In the spring, the Monarch butterflies fly back to Minnesota because the type of food that they eat is not available to them in Mexico. One sad fact is that the winter homes of the Monarch butterfly are endangered because people are cutting down their favorite trees to build things like roads and houses. In Minnesota, we can help Monarch butterflies to survive by planting milkweed plants and not using poisonous sprays on our plants. References: https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/do-butterflies-migrate/ https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/monarch-migration Activity Help your little one appreciate beautiful butterflies by choosing one or more of these activities: Plant a milkweed plant in your garden Go out into the garden and look for butterflies; take a picture and try to identify the type Draw a picture of the life cycle of a butterfly Cut out and decorate paper butterflies Make a butterfly mask Read Gotta Go! Gotta Go! by Sam Swope. This book tells the story of a caterpillar who knew she had to get to Mexico but didn’t know how she would get there. She crawled on her way until she began to grow tired, and hung from a branch, tucked into her chrysalis. When she woke up, she continued her journey until she finally came across a valley with millions of butterflies just like her. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Gotta-Go-Picture-Book-Sunburst/dp/0374427860?&linkCode=ll1&tag=wear03e-20&linkId=c6d48ce27484e684775797fa673e9ca4&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl Monarch Butterfly by Gail Gibbons. This is a non-fiction book that is clearly written, beautiful illustrated, and packed with scientific facts for kids. This book touches on the life cycle, habitat, migration, body parts, and behavior of monarch butterflies. Dakota County Library Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=monarch+butterfly+gail+gibbons&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 https://kidworldcitizen.org/books-videos-migration-monarch-butterflies/ Photo credits: pixabay.com (1), Sageandzoo.com Creative Commons (2)

< Back Create Frozen Luminarias Marjory Blare, Master Gardeners Frozen luminaries are both fun and beautiful to create. This article will give you suggestions on using materials you may have around the house and in your winter garden to create a frozen luminary. Here are two easy winter crafts that you can do with your little ones! Frozen Luminarias You will need: A large shallow container, at least 3” deep, perhaps 18”x14” or so. Vegetation; weeds, twigs, leaves, evergreen cuttings and so on. A pitcher or bucket to pour water into your container A tea candle or an electric candle in a mason jar. (If you choose a real candle you will also need a long lighter such as you would use for a grill. After making sure the candle is firmly fixed in the bottom of the jar, tip it sideways to light.) Make sure you take pictures of the process! Kids enjoy helping to collect the weeds. Cut them a bit longer than your container. Look for bold contrasting shapes. Colors are a bonus but not required. A monochromatic palette also creates beautiful results. Have your child arrange the various pieces in the shallow container. You might have them choose three long pieces, five medium pieces and seven or more short pieces. Cut them to fit the container. Odd numbers of pieces generally result in a pleasing composition. It can be easy to put too much into the container: you want light to be able to show through the finished composition. Don't worry about having the bottom edge all neat, this part will be buried in the snow. Gently pour about two to three inches of water over the vegetation and press down anything that floats, trying to keep them mostly below the surface. You may want to do this yourself, or make sure if your child spills, you've got a towel under it. Letting it soak indoors for a day before putting it outside can help the vegetation become waterlogged and submerge better. Put the container outdoors in a place where snow and/or other debris can't get into it, or alternately, cover it. Don't move it again until it's frozen solid or you will get cracks and air in it. After it's frozen solid, gently tap the frozen piece out of the container. Set it upright in a snow bank, packing snow at the base to help hold it upright. You can place it so that sun streams through it during the day or wait until dark, then light and place the candle behind your frozen weeds. Stand back and admire! Weeds and Buckets You will need: one or more buckets Vegetation, as above. You can use much larger and longer pieces of vegetation.- Enough water to fill the buckets about 4-5" deep. Place the tallest pieces in first, then medium, and finally the shortest pieces around the outside. You will need enough of the shorter pieces to hold the taller pieces upright, although some graceful arching is very pleasing too. Allow the water to freeze and then gently tap to remove. Place on your front porch or wherever you'd like decorations. Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back Seeds of Wonder - Planting Seeds with Children Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener There’s a sense of wonder from all ages when a small seed becomes a plant before our very eyes. I found myself browsing the seed rack at the nursery on a dreary day at the end of December and a fellow shopper walked by, smiled and said, “feeling optimistic?” Well, yes. Seed packets are a pretty affordable envelope of optimism - and one we can certainly share with children! Britannica dictionary offers these two definitions of a seed: ‘A small object produced by a plant from which a new plant can grow’ and ‘the beginning of something which continues to develop or grow.’ So, when we incorporate seeds into a fun activity with kids, we are quite literally starting at the beginning to grow plants! How to get going? Well, gather a few things: Seeds With kids, I like to select slightly bigger seeds they can handle (though you can broadcast seeds with a salt shaker if they are small). I also look at the germination time on the packet - fewer days of germination get them closer to seeing growth on their young seedlings. For example, the back of the seed packet for this “Cat Grass,” avena sativa, indicates sprouting in 5-10 days, and the plant is “ready” in 10-15 days. Not instant gratification but results come pretty quickly. Growing medium This is what we plant the seeds in. There are several options available, but I usually pick up a bag of “Seedling Mix” from various suppliers. Seeds already come with the energy and nutrition they need to sprout, so they really just need a friendly place to grow. Container Pick one that drains water so the seeds don’t get water logged and rot. I’ve used trays marketed for seeding, yogurt cups with holes poked in the bottom and small terra cotta pots. I like repurposing plastic berry containers because they already have drainage holes (a coffee filter placed in the bottom will allow water through but hold in the growing medium) AND the lids act as little greenhouses to help with humidity in the air around the seeds. Once the seeds sprout, just open the container up so the seedlings have room to grow. Water A great way to start the seeds off with water is to place some growing medium in a bowl and have your child stir with a large spoon while one of you adds water, a little at a time, until the soil clumps but isn’t soggy. Then, add the moistened soil to the container, ready to plant the seeds. Once the seeds are in, a spray bottle or mister (as basic or fancy as you wish, the plants don’t care!) makes for a fun activity each day for kids to keep the seeds from drying out as they are germinating. A planting “tool” like a spoon or scoop helps, though some kids like to just use their hands and that’s perfectly ok. Planting Time (Caregivers may want to protect activity surfaces - seed planting can get messy!) 1. Using a tray underneath, fill the container part way with growing medium, such as Seedling Mix. 2. Look at the seed packet for planting depth and spacing. In this example, seeds should be broadcast (scattered) on the surface and gently pressed into the growing medium. These seeds can sprout right on top, but if seeds are to be planted at 1/4 inch, you’d scatter another 1/4 inch of growing medium on top of the seeds. 3. Spray the top of the growing medium and seeds to help settle and hydrate. 4. Find a bright spot to place your planted container, keep the growing medium from drying out, and watch for your sprouts to appear! I tried these seeds both in a shallow container, from which I will move seedlings to a larger container once they are about 2” high per the packet instructions, and also in a small terra cotta pot that can hold bigger seedlings. You can do your own “experiment’ with your child to see what happens to seeds planted in different containers. Within 2 weeks, the seeding project becomes another activity: Using age-appropriate scissors, a child can “harvest” their crop - in this case cat grass that will continue to grow. They may also like giving the plant a “haircut” and using the trimmings in imaginative play or art projects. Plants can be grown to stay inside. Others can be gradually moved to an outdoor pot or garden when the warm weather is here. The first amazing step is watching the transformation of seeds into tiny seedling plants. Here are some other plants with shorter seed germination times: Marigolds Lettuce Peas Basil Calendula Have fun together seeing the plants that can grow from those tiny seeds! Looking for some reading to learn more about plant seeds? Check out these books available through Dakota County Library Seeds Go, Seeds Grow by Mark Weakland. "Simple text and photographs explain the basic science behind seeds” (Dakota County Library) A seed is the start by Melissa Stewart. “ Beautiful photography and lyrical text pair with comprehensive picture captions in award-winning author Melissa Stewart’s story about the surprisingly diverse world of seeds. Learn all about the plant cycle, from how seeds grow, the fascinating ways they travel, and what it takes for a seed to become a plant.” (Dakota County Library) A Seed is Sleepy by Dianna Hutts Aston ; illustrated by Sylvia Long. “ This book offers children a beautiful and informative look at the intricate, complex, and often surprising world of seeds. An informative introduction to seeds.” (Dakota County Library) Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4, ), Book jackets (5, 6, 7)

< Back Deciphering Seed Catalogs Seed catalogs start coming in January or February - a good time to start dreaming of your next garden! But there is so much information packed into a seed catalog it can be hard to interpret the abbreviations and array of plant varieties. This article will help you to decipher your seed catalogs so that you can choose the best plants for your garden. Marjorie Blare, Master Gardener Seed catalogs start coming in January or February - a good time to start dreaming of your next garden! There is so much information packed into a seed catalog! Most people have no problem with the catalogs’ rapturous descriptions of flowers or produce. After all, the catalogs are full of (probably 'enhanced') photos! More bewildering are the icons next to the photos. A good catalog has a key that explains what each icon means. They might have a drawing of a circle that is half dark and half light. They should also explain how many hours of direct sun that icon indicates, perhaps 4-6 hours. The key may be at the front of the catalog, or at the bottom of the page. Plant descriptions can have letters next to them. For instance, tomatoes may have the letters VFM. This means that variety has resistance to verticillium, fusarium wilt and nematodes. Without those letters, describing a plant as “disease resistant” is useless. Tomatoes will be listed as determinate (bush) or indeterminate (vining). You may find the letters OP (open pollinated), F1 (first generation hybrid) or X (a 'cross') in its name. F2 is a hybrid that can only be propagated vegetatively. These letters are important if you wish to save seeds. The OP seeds will breed true, but not the others. Flowers will have 'days to bloom' and/or 'bloom season' in their description, and veggies will have days to maturity or harvest. Note: 'days to harvest' for plants started indoors count from the day it is planted out. These numbers are based on the seed company's test gardens; choosing northern-grown seeds or plants, will make those numbers more accurate in Dakota County. The description or icon will tell you when to direct-sow the seeds or when to start them under lights. The latter requires you to know the average date of the last or first frost. Dakota County's dates are May 8th and October 10th respectively. It will tell you how many seeds are in a package, how far apart to plant, soil conditions (alkaline or acidic, clay, sandy, loamy) and watering requirements. Left-over seeds can be donated to a seed library, shared with friends or saved in a dry jar in the refrigerator. There will be shipping charges on the packages of seeds, so try to order all at once, or with friends, or with a heavier item. If you are getting perennials, make sure to choose plants that will grow in our U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) zone. Dakota County is zone 4. Some catalogs “stretch” the range of zones, so try to compare what different catalogs claim about the same plant or seed. Some catalogs include a USDA map and perhaps a table of temperature ranges. The catalog should list the scientific name of the plant, because common names are frequently shared by several unrelated plants. On-line catalogs will have simplified descriptions, but also have links to click to open up more information. They may also have customer reviews which are very helpful! Photo credit: www.ag.ndsu.edu (1)

< Back Houseplant Pests Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Discovering and controlling pests on your indoor plants is an important step for keeping your indoor garden healthy and happy. The information in this article will help you keep these unwanted visitors off your plants and out of your home. Last month we talked about keeping your houseplants healthy, paying attention to growing requirements, fertilization, watering, hygiene and potting soil. Minding all these factors will reduce the chance of sickly plants and pest attacks. Yet, alas, in even the best of environments, insect problems sometimes rear their ugly heads. So, what to do if you suspect you have some unwelcome residents on your houseplants? As we said, inspect them for insect pests when you water, clean or fertilize. They most often congregate on the underside of leaves. You should look for insects, holes, webbing or eggs. Give an even closer inspection to any plants brought in from the store or the outside. Using a magnifying glass helps. It also impresses any bystanders. You want to look for “honeydew” which is a shiny sticky substance produced by aphids, mealybugs and scale insects. Also check plant containers for pests along the ridges and bottom of pots and saucers. It’s not a bad idea to put a new plant in quarantine, away from the rest of your collection, for a week or two. More often than not a pest problem will declare itself during this period. Honeydew on houseplant leaves. When you water the plants keep a sharp lookout for bugs like springtails and fungus gnats. They usually move with the water. If you think you might have flying insects like thrips, winged aphids, fungus gnats or whiteflies, setting up a sticky paper trap like the one illustrated can help in detection. A yellow sticky card can trap flies. If you find an infestation early on, more often than not you can manage it without pesticides. That’s good for you and for the environment. Washing the plant will remove small infestations. Use a paper towel to wipe leaves, changing the paper frequently to prevent spread. You can wash small plants in the sink and larger ones in the shower. Be one with your Ficus! You can physically remove many pests. Larger insects such as millipedes, slugs, caterpillars or earwigs can be picked off the plants. Mealybugs can be removed with a forceps (tweezers) or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Those hard little grey scales can be taken off the plant with a fingernail file. Pruning is another option if the critters are isolated on a few leaves, stems or branches. Be aggressive. Most plants will recover remarkably well if relieved of their insect burden and given the right growing environment. If all else fails and the plant looks like a goner, don’t hesitate to toss it. This avoids exposing other plants to the same pest problem, which will save you grief in the long run. Rather than composting the diseased plant, I prefer to wrap it in a Ziplock bag and put it in the trash. To obtain more information about specific pests as well as what to do if non-chemical methods fail to control your problem, check out Prof. Jeffery Hahn’s recommendations on the University of Minnesota Extension website: https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/insects-indoor-plants#using-pesticides-for-pest-management-1580961 Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back Minnesota’s State Muffin and Its Star Ingredient: The Blueberry Blueberry season may be over this year, but as you reflect on this past year and contemplate what to plant next year, a beverage with a nice, big, blueberry muffin may inspire your garden plans. Is your mouth watering yet? Read about the blueberry muffin, some interesting information about growing and picking blueberries in Minnesota, and you’ll also find a couple of bonus recipes to try this winter! By Lisa Olson, Master Gardener All 50 states have state symbols - some more than others. (Looking at you, Texas, with at least 70 state symbols!) Only three states, however, have a muffin symbol. New York chose the apple muffin, Massachusetts has the corn muffin, and in 1987 a group of elementary students from Carlton, Minnesota, near Duluth, began their quest to secure the blueberry muffin as the Minnesota state muffin. It was really an exercise in learning about the legislative process. And educational it was. Their first assignment was to choose the muffin flavor that best represented Minnesota. Blueberry was the students’ muffin of choice - fitting, since blueberries are grown across the state. After multiple trips to the capitol during the next session to watch the process of passing bills, the blueberry muffin eventually made its way through in 1988. Perhaps it helped that the “Blueberry Muffin Gang” from Carlton brought muffins for all the legislators on one of their trips in order to help their cause. Minnesota is home to two native blueberry plants: lowbush ( Vaccinium angustifolium ) and velvetleaf ( V. myrtilloides ). They are mostly found in the northeast part of the state, but they can be found across the state from the northwest to the far southeast corner as well. Wild blueberries are generally much smaller than cultivated blueberries so growing blueberries commercially in Minnesota was a challenge because of the cold climate. That changed when the University of Minnesota began researching and breeding cold-hardy, large-fruited cultivars in the 1960’s. Larger berries, taller plants making picking the fruit easier, and breeding for harvesting over a longer season have all greatly improved the commercial production and also provided home growers with more varieties to choose from. The University of Minnesota even cultivated a pink variety. Yes, a pink blueberry! If you are interested in growing blueberries at your home, the University of Minnesota is a great resource to help you select the right plant for your conditions, and for planting and maintaining tips. Here are some quick facts to get you started: Not interested in growing your own? You can still pick your own. There are numerous pick-your-own farms in Minnesota. If you are feeling a little more adventurous, you can pick wild blueberries. Minnesota state parks, Superior National Forest lands, state forest lands, and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area all actually allow berry picking for personal consumption. If you pick an abundance, they freeze well so you can enjoy them all year. Here are a couple of recipes to enjoy. Even though blueberry picking season in Minnesota ends in July or August, blueberry muffins are always in season. The muffin recipe is the official state muffin recipe from the Minnesota Secretary of State website. The pie recipe is especially good for fall and winter occasions with cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice. You will need some fresh blueberries, so thankfully it is always blueberry season somewhere in the world! The combination of fresh and cooked berries make this pie unique and especially delicious. Enjoy! Blueberry Muffin Recipe By Shari Baker, Gunflint Pines Resort 2 c. Flour ½ c. Sugar 1 T. Baking powder ½ t. Salt 1 T. Orange zest (grated peel) 1 c. Blueberries (fresh, dried, or frozen—Do not thaw or rehydrate) 1 c. White Chocolate Chips (*optional, but great!) 1-¼ c. Buttermilk 1 Egg ½ t. Vanilla Sugar in the Raw (large-grain brown sugar) Preheat oven to 425F. Mix buttermilk, egg, and vanilla; set aside. Mix dry ingredients, orange zest, blueberries, and white chocolate chips. Make well in center, pour in liquid mixture, and stir lightly just until mixed. Spoon into lined or greased muffin tins. Top with sugar in the raw, and bake for 20 to 22 minutes. Makes a “baker’s dozen”. New England Blueberry Pie 4 c. fresh blueberries ½ c. sugar ½ c. brown sugar, packed 1 Tbsp. lemon juice ¼ tsp. allspice ¼ tsp. cinnamon ⅛ tsp. nutmeg ¼ tsp. salt 1 8-9” baked pie shell In a saucepan, combine 2 c. berries with sugar, flour, butter, lemon juice, and all the spices and salt. Cook over low heat to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes or until thick. Cool. When cool, add the remaining 2 c. of blueberries. Transfer all of the blueberry mixture into the cooled pie shell. Chill pie. Serve with whipped cream. Resources: https://www.startribune.com/minnesota-symbols-blueberry-muffin-carlton-south-terrace/600172953/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2023/jul-aug/bucket.html https://mnhardy.umn.edu/blueberries https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-blueberries-home-garden#staking-and-support-19061 https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-muffin-blueberry/ https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/commercial-blueberry-production-minnesota-and-wisconsin Photo credits: Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Courtesy of University of Minnesota (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Strawberry Asparagus Salad and a Challenge! Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s July and some of your vegetables and fruit are ripe for picking – yay! Two of these early products are asparagus and strawberries. And, luckily, they go together in a delicious salad. Read Joy Johnson’s article for an easy recipe. And, keep reading for a more difficult recipe for Strawberry Cucumber bread. If you’re up for the challenge, you will be rewarded with a delicious treat! Did you know that asparagus and strawberries go well together in two ways? One way is to do companion plantings with groups of asparagus inter-mixed with strawberry plants. Because the asparagus grows tall and starts sprouting out of the ground ahead of the strawberry plants, you can grow them together and harvest them at nearly the same time. The second way is to eat them together. Their flavors are complimentary and make a fresh summer salad. Here is a very simple recipe that pulls together in no time. You can jazz it up by adding sliced almonds, poppy seeds, goat cheese or crumbled feta or blue cheese. I didn’t have those ingredients on hand, so I’m keeping it simple tonight! Strawberry Asparagus Salad Ingredients: 2 cups asparagus, cut in pieces and blanched 2 cups strawberries, sliced Dressing: ¼ cup lemon juice 2 TBSP vegetable oil. 2 TBSP honey Directions: Toss the asparagus and strawberries together in a bowl. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the dressing ingredients and mix well. Pour dressing over salad and toss. Chill before serving. Strawberry Cucumber Bread – If You Like a Challenge! This colorful bread can be served at breakfast or as a dessert or in the middle of the day with a cup of tea or coffee. I came across this recipe when I googled “spring breads”. It has two of my favorite foods in it: strawberries and cucumbers, which I thought was an interesting combination for a quick bread. It was very challenging to make! First, I had to clarify butter. I didn’t start with a small enough pan, so when I had to scrape off the butter foam without dipping my spoon into the clear layer underneath, that wasn’t going to work. So, I dumped it into a smaller pan, which completely negated the instruction to not stir it or disturb the layers in any way. I gently scraped off the foam after waiting an extra hour with the pan over really low heat, and I figured it would re-layer itself if I waited long enough. Then I was supposed to separate the clarified butter from the water, which I could do by pouring it off. Hmm, it all looked the same to me. So, I went back to my computer to get some work done (that I get paid for) and left the pot on very low heat for another hour. When I came back into the kitchen, there was the butter - thick and smooth, but definitely not clear. I scooped it out of the pot so I could measure it and discovered about a teaspoon of water underneath. I did pour that off. I used this butter in the recipe, but I can’t say if it met the definition of ‘clarified’. The next challenge was the baking. It flowed over my bread pan and all over the oven floor. I scraped the bottom rack and the bottom of the oven clean as soon as I discovered it, so it wouldn’t start on fire, which was after about an hour of baking. The bread should have been done at that point. But it wasn’t even close with the hot batter still running over the side of the pan. So, I covered it with a tent of foil in an effort to get the inside baked and not brown the outside any further. I checked it every 15 minutes. It still wasn’t done and was still volcano-ing onto the oven floor. It ended up in the oven for an extra 40 minutes (at least, I went out to rake the lawn!) and then I gave up and took it out. I put it in the microwave for 2 ½ minutes on high to get the inside cooked. The next challenge was getting it out of the bread pan. I let it cool on a cooling rack until it was just warm. I had greased and floured the pan before filling it. I gently went around the edge with a butter knife, sawing through the dark parts where the batter had flowed over the pan. Tipped it over - no movement. I went around the pan with the knife again, twice, then turned it on one side and worked on that side, turned it over to the other side and worked on that side. It finally came free in one piece! Of course, I sliced it and ate a piece right away. It was delicious , especially when I hit a pocket of the strawberry preserves, but I’m not sure it was worth all the effort! Strawberry Cucumber Bread (from Bon Appetite Magazine) modified slightly by me Ingredients: ½ cup strawberry preserves 1 T cornstarch 1T fresh lemon juice ½ c sort of clarified butter, room temp 1 c sugar 2 large eggs 1t vanilla extract ¼ t almond extract 2c all -purpose flour 1 t baking powder ½ t baking soda ½ t salt 2 cups grated and well drained cucumber ½ c chopped walnuts ½ c sliced fresh strawberries, divided Instructions: In a small saucepan, cook strawberry preserves, cornstarch, and lemon juice over medium heat until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Let cool completely. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with baking spray and sprinkle with flour. In a bowl, beat clarified butter and sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in extracts. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating just until combined. Stir in cucumber, walnuts, and ¼ cup (42.5 grams) sliced strawberries. Spoon half of batter into prepared pan; top with strawberry preserve mixture. Add remaining batter, and top with remaining ¼ cup (42.5 grams) strawberry slices. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove from pan and let cool completely on a wire rack. Wrap and store at room temperature for up to 1 week. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Bug Hotels and Pollinator Habitats Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Let’s focus on two insect populations: bees and caterpillars. Bees The majority of flowers and about one third of all crops depend upon pollination. When these populations are threatened, so is food security. For an extreme example, consider the farmers of Sichuan province in China who hand paint pollen onto their fruit trees because insecticides have killed off bee populations. Somewhere between 60-70% of bee species dig burrows in the ground, while the remaining 30-40% nest in cavities such as holes in trees or hollow stems. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: For ground-nesting bees, provide areas in your garden with undisturbed soil, keeping insecticides away. For cavity-nesting bees, leave stems of varying lengths (8-24”) over winter and don’t trim back until after spring. Provide a water source for mud-building bees. For bumblebees who need insulation to build nests, provide a brush pile with sticks and leaves. Consider a bug hotel to provide more spaces for cavity-nesting bees—you can build one yourself or find a ready-made bug hotel for purchase. Caterpillars While most gardeners love bees, caterpillars are often seen as a problem in the garden—and for a good reason. Hornworms decimate tomato plants and cabbage loopers devour all sorts of edible greens. However, entomologist and conservationist Doug Tallamy argues that since caterpillars dominate the nesting diets of the majority of birds, these insects are necessary for healthy bird populations. For example, 75% of the food chickadees bring their young is caterpillars. While some caterpillars eat a variety of plants and can be considered generalists, many caterpillars are specialists that only eat one particular plant. Monarch butterflies, of course, rely upon milkweed flowers alone, while goldenrods are eaten by 80-plus different kinds of caterpillars. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: Go to Native Plant Finder ( https://www.nwf.org/NativePlantFinder/Plants/Flowers-and-Grasses ) to look up which flowers best attract beneficial caterpillars in your area as generalists. Consider specialist caterpillars you want to attract and plant the flower or tree they rely upon. Convert some of your lawn to native wildflowers and grasses. If you don’t have a lawn, try a container garden of native wildflowers. Add a bed of native wildflowers and grasses below any trees that host caterpillars; this provides a soft, protected space for the caterpillars’ transformation. Use mosquito dunk tablets instead of mosquito sprays to control those populations. Even sprays that say they only target mosquitos have been shown to hurt other insects. For More: Bee Lab (University of Minnesota). https://beelab.umn.edu Davies, Dave. “The World's Insect Population Is in Decline—And That's Bad News for Humans,” Fresh Air , (February 24, 2022). https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2022/02/24/1082752634/the-insect-crisis-oliver-milman Habitat Installation Guide: Upper Midwest. Xerces Society. https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/15-042.pdf Homegrown National Park. https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ Millman, Oliver. The Insect Crisis: The Fall of the Tiny Empires That Run the World. New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company, 2022. Native Plant Finder. https://www.nwf.org/nativeplantfinder/ Photo Credit: John McLinden ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/fogey03/34605941461 ) (1)

< Back Lop & Lose Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners While March is the ideal time to prune most trees and shrubs in your garden; note that it is NOT the time to prune those that bloom in the spring. Pruning your spring blooming trees and shrubs may kill blooms that are forming. These plants should be pruned right after they bloom in the spring. Read this article for valuable information about pruning some of your most beautiful spring blooming shrubs. Blossoms that is. Patience pays for those spring blooming shrubs and small trees gracing your landscape. While March is the perfect time to prune almost everything else it is several months early for those spring flowering ones. Ideally, the plants listed below are best shaped RIGHT AFTER blooming, before next year’s flower buds are set. Even waiting a month or two after flowering to trim these plants can mean losing next year’s blooms. LILACS Lilacs benefit by pruning AFTER blooming. Lilacs can be pruned very severely for renovation with the understanding that it may take several seasons of growth for a good flower show. Since lilacs live so long they often grow out of their appropriate space in the landscape with dead and unsightly sections. Often shade has been created over them over the years which makes them spindly and the flowers sparse. Pruning helps here but lilacs and shade are not a good mix. Unfortunately, lilacs will regrow from roots so removing them means repeat pruning of the new growth or digging out the roots. FORSYTHIA The bright yellow flowers of forsythia are so welcome in early spring that patience here will definitely be rewarded. This plant tends to be rather rangy in habit and benefits from regular trimming to keep it attractive in all seasons. AZALEA & RHODODENDRON While most specimens really don’t need pruning because they tend to keep a dense, organized structure, some might need restraining, balancing or thinning in the inner areas for more light and air. In northern climates, azaleas tend to create larger, more dense and flower covered specimens if they are planted with more sun rather than more shade as in the south. HYDRANGEA Hydrangeas are of two major categories: flowering on new wood and flowering on old, or last year’s wood. The key to pruning is to know which you have. Ones that flower on new wood can be pruned very aggressively and still produce a summer crop of vegetation and flowers. Ones that flower on last year’s wood should NOT be pruned early but do look better if old blossoms are snipped or snapped off early in the growing season. New flowers will be produced of course but the dead ones will sully the look. MAGNOLIAS Fortunately, Magnolia flower buds are very obvious. They practically scream: “don’t cut me!” Magnolias in a sunny location don’t need much pruning generally but they often do need removal of suckers around the trunk. Mock Orange, Virburnum, Chokeberry, Serviceberry, Ninebark, Weigela, Spirea and Fothergilla are other spring bloomers which, if they need any pruning which most do not, should be pruned after flowering. Photo Credit: Gurneys (1), Michigan Bulb Co. (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3,5) & Julie Harris (4)

< Back Top 3 Flowering and Edible Weeds Most of us view weeds as mere pests in the garden to be eradicated from our gardens. But some weeds have the redeeming virtue of being edible. In this article, Master Gardener Kristina Valle describes how three common weeds can be consumed and appreciated. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener “A weed is but an unloved flower,” – Ella Wheeler Wilcox. This year we welcomed a spring full of heavy rains that lasted days and quickly melted our towering snow mounds. This rain also gave many perennials and bulbs a much needed jump start to produce new growth on stems that may have been on the rabbits’ menu for most of the winter. While I did lose a few plants this winter, there were many that benefitted from a severe haircut and the early, and extra rain aided in providing the plants with the necessary support to recover and grow back quickly. Unfortunately, rain will help anything that is able to grow, including weeds. While most weeds are unwelcomed and take away some of the gardener’s enjoyment, eradicating them from our yard and gardens is a necessary part of the job, as we all know. But did you know that there are many weeds that can have a positive place in your life or rather, on your plate? This article will discuss the top 3 flowering and edible weeds that may already exist in your garden and that may alter your perception of their presence in your landscape. #1 – The Dandelion It’s early spring and POP! Bright yellow flowers appear and carpet many open spaces along roads and are sprinkled throughout our yard and gardens. As Minnesotan’s we appreciate the first sign of color after a cold and dull winter, but these flowering weeds are met with disdain as we know that our summer work has just begun. Instead of looking at these weeds negatively, we should really be thinking of all of their uses instead. All three parts of a dandelion are edible. The Flower The flower head can be incorporated into cookies, quiche, muffins and many other baked goods, adding a honey like flavor to any recipe. Another alternative is frying the petals as a fritter like you would for squash blossoms. The Leaves The leaves are simply greens and are versatile enough to be used in a sauté with pasta or even eggs. The Roots Looking for a coffee or tea alternative? Consider dandelion roots! Dandelion Root Tea is commonly available in most grocery stores, but you’ll need to put in a little more effort if you want to make some Dandelion Root Coffee. First, you’ll need to dry the roots in a food dehydrator, and then roast them in the oven until they are thoroughly dry. Afterwards, place the roots in water and bring to a boil, strain it, drink and enjoy! #2 – The Common Blue Violet While the dandelion is often one of the easiest weeds to identify, greater care must be taken for other edible weeds. The violet has heart shaped leaves and 5 petals. Unlike the dandelion, only the petals and leaves of the violet are edible so it is important to be sure you have a violet before you harvest. If you’ve been to a restaurant that garnishes dishes, or even cocktails with flowers, you may have eaten a violet. The visual appeal livens up whatever you’re serving and invites a touch of the season into whatever occasion you’re celebrating. If you’re feeling a little extra, consider freezing the petals in individual ice cubes to add a surprise to any cold drink during your next get together. #3 – The Clover Whenever I think of clover, I’m reminded of a scene in the Disney Movie “Bambi” where Thumper is feasting on and stuffing his cheeks full of delicious clover. Sure, bunnies love it, but we can enjoy it too! Similar to a dandelion, you can prepare the flower head as a fritter. The clover can also be added to pasta, salads and teas and can be easily identified by its pink-purple flower. It is best to boil the plant before eating it, which can be accomplished when cooking a pasta or making a tea, as the plant (excluding the flower) can be a little hard on the digestive system. Finally, have you considered creating a Bee Lawn? Need a cover crop? Your clover will be a benefit not only to your pollinators but to you as well! It is my hope that this article has at a minimum, piqued your curiosity about the volunteers that grace our gardens each year. If you are interested in foraging outside of your garden space for these weeds, onto public lands, do not harvest unless you can be sure that no pesticides have been used on the weeds. Always exercise caution when foraging and remember to limit your haul to only 10% so that the local wildlife is not negatively impacted by the removal of some beneficial plants. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

Let’s Get Growing is an event for home gardeners of all skill levels looking to learn more and have a great time. This event includes classes, a keynote speaker, lunch, silent auction and a chance to win door prizes too. Classes are taught by U of M Master Gardeners as well as horticulture professionals. Consider coming to enjoy friendly people and a garden marketplace where you can purchase books and garden décor in a spring time atmosphere! ​ Continue to check this page for the date and location of our 2025 Let's Get Growing! ​

< Back Getting the Jump on Jumping Worms Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Many of us associate worms in the soil as an indicator of “good garden soil.” Unfortunately, that is not necessarily true in Minnesota these days. “Jumping worms” have become more common in local gardens recently and that is not a good thing. Read this article to understand why. My Uncle Casey was a farmer. He’d pick up a clod of dirt. Earth worms would slowly wriggle out. He’s say, “Good soil.” It’s almost become axiomatic that the presence of earthworms, mostly of the family Lumbricidae, indicates a healthy soil. Indeed worms consume leaf litter and organic material, release nutrients and help in soil aeration, altering soil structure. But they are not native. They, along with so much else, came over to North America in the 1600’s with early European settlement. For millennia the soil of our continent got along quite nicely without them. In the late 19 th Century a new genus, Amynthas spp or “jumping worms” arrived from East Asia on imported plants or other agricultural materials. They have made their way from the Northeast into the Midwest, first appearing in Minnesota and Wisconsin over the last 10 to 20 years. Unlike their relatively benign cousins, they have caused quite a lot of damage to the soils they have colonized. Like other invasive species, they take over. They invade the first 4 to 8 inches of soil muscling out other worms. Jumping worms consume both living and dead plant material at accelerated rates and change the soil to give it a “coffee grounds-like” texture, which can severely stunt or kill plants. A jumping worm ( Amynthas spp) with characteristic cream-colored “collar” (clitellum). So how do you know if you have them? As their name implies, jumping worms are very active in comparison to other earthworms. They wriggle around vigorously. They also have a distinctive cream-colored band about a third of the way down their bodies. About the only other worm you might confuse them with is the night crawler. A really nifty app called iNaturalist can help in identification. A species of jumping worm (Amynthas agrestis) with a dead ladyslipper plant. Jumping worms change the soil and give it the granulated look of coffee grounds. What do you do if you have them? Don’t despair. Some plants will succumb but others seem to tolerate jumping worms. You definitely want to remove and destroy any jumping worms you come across. Pop them in a resealable plastic bag and put them in the trash. Don’t spread them around your property. Carting infested soil from place to place should be avoided. They are annuals, laying eggs in leaf detritus in the fall, so be careful what you do with raked leaves. Above all, spread the word. You can report jumping worm infestations to the Great Lakes Early Detection Network ( www.gledn.org ). This is an organization which tracks invasive species around the Great Lakes and provides information to municipalities and individuals. If in doubt, report. They will verify. There’s a GLEDN app for either Apple or Google on which you can do this. What can you do to reduce the chances of getting jumping worms in your garden? Be careful of any horticultural products you bring into the garden. Soils, mulch, compost, potted plants all are potential sources of the worms. If you are thinking about trying vermiculture, be very careful that you don’t buy misidentified worms. If you have a fisherman in the family make sure he disposes unused worms in a sealed bag in the trash, not in the lake or on the shore. Want to learn more? Use this link to the University of Minnesota Extension. At present there is no known means of eradicating jumping worms, so vigilance is essential! Photo credits: Josef Gorres, University of Vermont. (1, 2, 3)