< Back February - Starting Seeds Indoors Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil. By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers. If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings are growing vigorously in a warm humid environment. Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back Plants You Wish You’d Never Bought Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Good gardening includes doing some research when planning your garden! Sometimes a plant that you bought can turn into a monster that makes you despair of ever getting rid of it. Learn from the mistakes that this author and other Master Gardeners have made when choosing plants for their gardens. Good gardening includes doing some research when planning your garden! Sometimes a plant that looked so appealing in the garden center or catalog, can turn into a monster that makes you despair of ever getting rid of it. Learn from the mistakes that this author and other Master Gardeners have made when choosing plants for their gardens. non-native Honeysuckle Before - When it seemed like a good idea Garlic Chives in bloom, May 1998 Garlic Chives “What a beautiful flower, it looks like lace! Look at all the bees buzzing around it! The leaves are like chives! I can put it in salads!” I was looking at a small neat clump of plant, about 15” high. We had just moved onto a piece of land of about an acre. It came with many plants, and I had brought more from our old house. Yellow Archangel Yellow Archangel We have a wooded area containing poplars and spruce trees, so when I looked through the catalogs, I looked for shade-tolerant plants. I saw a variegated ground cover that had lovely yellow flowers that was supposed to do well in the shade. I bought ten of those. Siberian Squill Siberian Squill I wanted a water feature to go through the woods, but after looking into the cost and the time required for maintenance, I decided that I would make a “pond and stream” of plants. What was blue like water? I found a small bulb that had a delightful blue flower and planted it in my “pond and stream” – Siberian Squill. After – when a good idea became a problem Garlic Chives Garden Chives exploded! - April 2025 I have found out that certain, seemingly well-behaved plants can reach a “critical mass,” explode over your flower beds and then escape to places you never wanted them. Garlic chives have exploded all along the road-bank, which is made of limestone. This makes it very difficult to dig out the bulbs, which must be removed to eradicate the plant. Using an herbicide would kill the shrubs and other desirable plants. On the upside, they do stabilize the road-side. Yellow Archangel Lamiastrum Yellow Archangel exploded! Yellow Archangel has escaped into the woods. It is non-native but but has one redeeming quality – it suppresses Buckthorn – a genuine invasive plant that out competes native species. Siberian Squill Siberian Squill exploded! Siberian Squill has taken over the “pond and stream.” The blue flowers have been sparse and the foliage gets larger every year. This year they have defeated the Lamium “White Nancy,” that fills the pond and stream throughout the rest of the year. Siberian Squill propagates by self-seeding. Here you can see that the squill has escaped into the woods. Not looking forward to digging those out. This plant has the potential to become an invasive plant given its rapid spread and ability to grow almost anywhere. Other Master Gardeners Weigh in I asked some fellow Master Gardeners to reveal the plants that they have regretted buying and here is their list: Plants several Master Gardeners have reason to regret and why # of mentions Aggressive On Invasive or Eradicate List Self -seeds Thorny Got too big Garlic Chives xxx x x Horseradish xx Tea Roses x Rugosa roses xx x x False Spirea x x x Flame Willow x x x Morning Glories xxxxx x Giant Rudbeckia x Obedient Plant x Mugo Pine x Trumpet Vine x Amaranth x x x Yarrow (common) xx x Lemon Balm x x Mint xx x Spoon Tomatoes x Vinca Vine xx x x Giant Anisse Hyssop x Oregano xx x Lily-of-the-valley xxxxx x Creeping Buttercup x x Creeping Bellflower xxx x Ostrich Fern x x Hops Vine x Chinese Lantern x x Creeping Charlie x x Siberian Squill x x Snow-on-the-Mountain x x Barberry x x x Winged Burning Bush x x Japanese Honeysuckle (non-native) x x Garlic Mustard x x The lesson is – do your research before you buy a plant for your garden. You can start with our mistakes! Photo credits: Marjorie Blare (1-8)

< Back Earth Month is for Everyone! Kasha Zeman, Dakota County Master Gardener It is now April and that means EARTH MONTH! While many of us think about growing, planting, tending, and gardening all year long, if you are like me, that doesn’t always include water conservation, energy conservation, cleaning up my neighborhood, etc. The month of Earth Month is a reminder that we can do better to help preserve and cherish planet Earth. For the little ones in our lives, it is never too early (or too late) to teach them how to become better caretakers of mother nature. Please read on to find activities to do with the young people in your life during the month of April (and the other 11 months too!). April is Earth Month, but how did it become Earth Month? Actually, it didn’t start as Earth Month. It started as Earth Day. In 1970, a senator by the name of Gaylord Nelson, knowing there weren’t laws in the United States to protect the earth’s resources, created awareness about the issue. It was decided that in April of 1970 people in the United States were going to gather and have demonstrations about the deterioration of earth’s resources and the need for protection of our air, water, trees, animals, land etc. On April 22, 1970, over twenty million people across the nation participated in the first ever Earth Day. People at colleges, universities, high schools, middle schools, elementary schools, and communities gathered to address the importance of protecting the Earth. From then on, we have celebrated Earth Day every April 22. But, as we know, this has grown to into celebrating Earth Month every April! Earth Month Activities There are so many activities that can be done to help improve and conserve Earth’s resources. This article is going to focus on a few specific things for us to do with the kids in our lives by conserving water, conserving energy, planting trees, and cleaning up garbage. Conserving water Water is one of our most precious resources. Even though about seventy percent of the earth’s surface is covered by water, only about three percent is fresh water. Of that three percent of fresh water, only about one percent of that water can be used as drinking water. Depending on the age of the children in your lives, percentages can be very abstract and hard to understand. So, try this activity with them. Gather 100 rocks, pebbles, acorns, pinecones, crayons…really anything small and easy to collect. Explain that these 100 items represent Earth’s surface. Then count out 30 items and set them off to one side. Explain that these thirty items are the ground we stand on, the trees we see, the buildings we shop in, the schools we attend, the parks we play at, etc. Then show the remaining 70 items. Explain that these 70 items represent the rest of earth’s surface, and it is all water! Even though it is water, most of it isn’t fresh water. Explain that there is a difference between fresh water and salt water. Depending on your comfort level, you may even add a bit of table salt to a glass of water and have everyone try a small sip to see how undrinkable it is. Next, of those remaining 70 items, remove three. Explain that out of those 70 items, these three represent the only fresh water we have on earth, the lakes and rivers we enjoy swimming and fishing in. Finally, remove one item and explain that this one item represents the only drinkable water we have on Earth. Because there is so little drinkable water on Earth, that is why it is so precious and why we need to conserve it. Ways to Conserve Water Turn off the faucet while washing hands and brushing teeth. Take quick showers. No more than 5 minutes. When rinsing dishes, don’t turn the faucet on full strength. Use rain barrels for watering plants and flowers outdoors. If you are a homeowner and don’t already have a rain barrel, Dakota County has information regarding how you can build your own through this link . If you would like a rain barrel, but do not want to build your own, you can purchase one at a discounted price, while supplies last, from the Recycling Association of Minnesota . (They sell compost bins too! Conserving Energy In an ideal world we would all use energy produced only by the sun, wind, and water. But until that becomes more economically possible for all of us, here are a few simple ways to conserve energy. Turn off lights whenever you leave a room. Regarding your house temperature, turn your thermostat off whenever the weather is comfortable and open your windows. During the winter months, turn the thermostat down to a lower temperature at night. During the summer months, turn the thermostat up a few degrees. Even a few degrees makes a big difference! Close the blinds during really hot and really cold days. This will keep your air conditioner and furnace from having to work constantly. Ride your bike to school and work. Plan to have to leave a bit early and come home a little later. You will save on gas money and get exercise too! This next one is one of my favorite energy conserving activities to do with my own kid - have a light and electronics free day! When we have one of those rare days where no one has any planned activities, we sometimes have a light and electronics free day. We don’t turn on any overhead lights or lamps. You won’t be able to avoid a completely light free day because of the refrigerator, microwave, oven, garage door, etc. However, we unplug what we can and put tape over all the light switches, in case we forget. We tuck our iPads, laptops, and phones away, and prepare for a day outdoors and playing games by candlelight. Planting Trees Planting trees is a great way to help the environment and create cleaner air. An average 50-year-old mature tree can produce enough oxygen for 4 people to breathe a year! In addition, trees take in greenhouse gases and remove particle matter from our air. So, not only do we get oxygen from trees, but they also remove toxins that are unhealthy for us. Trees also provide shade and can help to reduce energy costs that come from using air conditioners in the summer. You can purchase trees from local greenhouses in various sizes and species. Often around Arbor Day, which is Friday, April 26 th this year, many organizations will give away free tree seedlings. Also, if you have a large area for which you are looking to plant trees, seedlings may be purchased in bulk - 50 seedlings per order from the Arbor Day Foundation . In addition, if you are part of an organization such as a school, library or youth group you can sign your organization up with “Neighborhood Forest.” This organization provides free tree seedlings to children. Once the organization is registered, parents can sign their kiddos up to get a free seedling. Cleaning up Garbage When I was in elementary school, we had a student group called the Green Team. One thing our students organized, was a school-wide community clean up. The teachers, volunteers, and students went out with gloves and garbage bags and cleaned up trash in our community. This is an easy activity for a family or a neighborhood to do together. Afterward, you can recycle anything that is allowed at your local recycling center and throw away the rest. Most times, when my family takes our dog for a walk, we bring a bag with us and pick up trash as we go. Community clean-up doesn’t have to be once a year or just in the month of April. We can all, including our children, participate in making our environment cleaner and healthier. April – Earth Month – is the perfect time to inspire your children - and yourselves! Resources https://www.nature.org/en-us/what-we-do/our-priorities/build-healthy-cities/cities-stories/benefits-of-trees-forests/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncWvBhD_ARIsAEb2HW9Trl1lPBpLAgcSGf1wG1iA5BEswP_MZMQSoin46BvbaRKXjAw3ld4aAn8iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/forestry/nursery/pricelist.html https://www.neighborhoodforest.org/ https://www.epa.gov/history/epa-history-earth-day#:~:text=There%20were%20no%20legal%20or,U.S.%20cities%2C%20and%20it%20worked ! https://www.epa.gov/archive/epa/aboutepa/earth-day-70-what-it-meant.html https://www.co.dakota.mn.us/Environment/WaterResources/Stormwater/Pages/rain-barrels.aspx https://recycleminnesota.org/compost-bins-rain-barrels/ Photo Credit: Flickr (1,3,4), Picryl (2)

< Back Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens): Romance in the air Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener A warm summer night and the fragrance of wisteria is in the air. Okay, I admit to being a bit of a romantic, but this gorgeous native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. Learn why and how to grow this lovely climbing vine in your garden in this article. Wisteria frutescens or Amerious native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. can wisteria is a woody, deciduous, climbing vine native to the wet forests and stream banks of the southeastern United States with a growing range stretching from the states of Virginia to East Texas extending southeast through Florida and north to New York and the Central Midwest extending into southern Minnesota . Fragrant, pea-like, lilac-purple or blue flowers will develop in April-May after the leaves emerge. Sometimes some additional blooming will develop in the summer. Although the flowers are usually blueish, some cultivars will produce white or dark burgundy blooms, or even have hints of yellow or green. If you are going to give American wisteria a go, you should of course provide some fairly sturdy trellising as the plant can grow as tall as 15 to 40 feet and 4 to 8 feet wide. Wisteria likes full sun (6 + hours per day) but will soldier along in part shade (2-6 hours of direct sunlight). Blooming might be a problem if it is overly shaded. It will do well in either clay or loam but good drainage of moist, occasionally wet soil is important. Wisteria also likes acid soil with pH tending toward 6.0 which is why it does well on a moist forest border. It acts as a host for larval forms of several butterflies and functions as an important nectar source for both bees and butterflies. American wisteria is relatively resistant to most pests, although honey fungus can be a problem as are a number of chewing insects. Deer and rabbits don’t usually consider wisteria as their first choice on the menu. Flowering usually occurs in the second or third year although not always, so be patient! Failure to bloom may be due to too much shade as we said, so choose your site well. Wisteria frutescens does not like to be transplanted. Frost damage or over fertilization may sometimes be the causes of non-flowering. A judicious application of 10-10-10 in the spring usually suffices. Also, since it is hardy only to Zone 5A, it might be prudent to mulch heavily in the fall in a southern Minnesota garden. Some nice cultivars to look for in your local nursery include “Alba” and “Nivea” with white flowers, “Magnifica” and “Swantly Purple”. “Amethyst Falls” produces a lovely, lightly fragrant lavender-purple bloom. Pruning should usually be done in the spring after flowering to control the size and spread of the plant. American wisteria does well as an accent to native or pollinator gardens especially on slopes, banks or rock walls. Regardless of placement it will add a colorful, fragrant and, perhaps romantic element to your landscape. Photo Credit: USDA (1), Bev Wagar, NC State Extension (2)

< Back To Every Weed (Turn, Turn, Turn) There is a Season (Turn, Turn, Turn) Marjory Blare, Master Gardener As you get excited about the growing season really getting going, you may also be seeing weeds popping up amongst your more intentional plantings. Wondering what you can do to keep those weeds in check? Read on for information from Master Gardener Marjory Blare on identifying weeds and some ideas for managing them. Weed: a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth especially : one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants. It is late spring, and I stand looking with satisfaction at the bucket of prickly lettuce seedlings at my feet, but make the mistake of glancing back at the hillside of shrubs and perennials. With a wilting feeling, I start seeing the vast number of Purselane and Spotted Spurge seedlings. By mid-summer Lambs Quarters, Redroot Pigweed, and Ragweed (achoo!) will have germinated. I know that come early fall I will be seeing Horseweed and Pineapple-weed. Identifying weeds can give you information on how to get rid of them, which are invasive, which are edible and which ones toxic or irritating to humans and/or animals. Knowing which weeds you have can tell you if you have compacted soils, rich soils or soils deficient in various nutrients. They can be annual (come up every year from seed), perennial (overwintering roots), or biennial (weeds that form a basal rosette the first year and produce flowers and seeds the second year). Weeds commonly germinate in the spring, some germinate in the fall, and there are others that come up just when you think your flower beds, pathways and gravel drives are weed free. Then, oh dear, there are the ones that can germinate, set seed and germinate again! Here are a few weeds you might encounter. For more resources on identifying and managing weeds: If you have a plant and want to know if it's a weed, this UMN Extension link will help you. https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/ Here is the Extension site for lawn weeds and what to do about them. https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/lawn-weeds The DNR has this site to help you identify invasive weeds, and what to do about them, including reporting certain weeds to the DNR. https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/index.html Here is one link to edible weeds, but, look for the coming Buzz article on edible weeds. https://my.chicagobotanic.org/tag/edible-weeds/ Weeds of the Upper Midwest by Teresa Marrone This is a book highly recommended by Dakota County Master Gardener Sally Macnamara “I know a weed when I see it. Although identifying a weed is not strictly necessary, it can be satisfying to know the enemy.” - Marjory Blare Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,3,4,5) & istock.com/photos/common-purslane (2)

< Back September - Seed Saving Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Read this article for some tips to help make your seed saving productive! Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Below are some tips to help make your seed saving productive! If you grow to eat the plant, and want to save seed for the next season, make sure you plant extra. Choose to either eat the plant or save the seed, but don’t expect to do both. If the plant you want to save seed from has an ‘F1’ on the label—don’t bother. This is a hybrid plant and you will not get the results you are looking for. Try heirloom varieties instead. Seeds are not created equal. Breeders pick the plant that is most desirable and stands out for a particular trait or traits—the largest, earliest blooming, tastiest, etc., for the next season. Once you have your seeds, go through and separate out the smaller, cracked and/or misshapen seeds. Use the unblemished ‘perfect’ seeds first. Seeds are ready for harvesting once fully ripe—if you pick too early the seed will not germinate. ‘Fully ripe’ for seed harvesting is usually when the plant is almost dead, or the fruit/vegetable is almost to the rotting point, or brown, dry and splitting open. Seeds need to be fully dry before storing for the following year(s). The moisture content needs to be very low, or mold/rotting can occur, spoiling the seed. Storage for seeds should be in breathable envelopes (I use coin envelopes), and kept in a cool dark place. Avoid humidity and damp places. Seeds are viable for a number of years, but it is best to use seed within a year or two of harvesting. There are methods to determine viability for seeds if you have them for longer, but expect the germination rate to drop each year. Self-pollinating plants are great seed saver candidates (think tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas) for beginners. Plants which cross-pollinate are a little trickier to harvest seed from (cucumbers, squash, corn, melons, for example). Extra measures need to be employed to ensure seeds are not contaminated from similar varieties planted too close. Try growing just one variety, or keep similar plants far away to minimize being compromised by wind and/or insect pollination. Seeds from wet, fleshy plants (tomatoes, melons, etc.) are a little more involved than from a seedhead or pod. The seeds are encased in a gooey substance that needs to be removed and thoroughly dried before storing. Just put the seeds in some water and let it rot/ferment for a few days. This helps remove the coating and improves germination. Just rinse and let dry completely and then store as usual. If you would like more information, the book Seed to Seed , by Susan Ashworth, is highly recommended. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: U of M Extension (1, 3), Natalie Hoidal, U of M Extension (2)

< Back Make a Cayenne Pepper Wreath for the Holidays Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s a great idea to grow vegetables in your garden to eat and share. But some vegetables lend themselves to other creative uses. Read this article to learn how to make a beautiful and useful holiday wreath with cayenne peppers. The Dakota County Master Gardeners participate in the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners’ annual vegetable seed trials. Master Gardeners receive selected vegetable seeds, plant them, grow them and record data about the growing experience. I participated in the project for the first time this year. It was a great learning experience. One of the seed types I chose to grow was cayenne peppers. I started them indoors in March and was blessed with about 60 plants that germinated and grew to transplanting size. I transplanted them outside in late May. In early September the peppers were at their peak of production. I harvested and taste tested all of the varieties and recorded my data for the seed trial project. But at the end of the season, I had a LOT of peppers. What was I to do with all of them? Well, I fermented 2 gallons of hot sauce and bottled it in cute little bottles and gave it away as Christmas gifts to all of my friends, family and co-workers. But I still had a lot of peppers left. Being the frugal person that I am, I can’t bear to waste anything, so I decided to make a wreath for the holidays. I spent 3 long evenings sewing peppers onto a straw wreath with florist’s wire. I pushed each piece of wire through the base of the stem of the pepper and then wrapped it around the straw wreathe to anchor it. Pepper after pepper, row after row. A pattern started to develop. I made a green ring by facing the stems toward each other. I tried to fill all the gaps. Some of the peppers were quite long and heavy. The wreathe as a whole ended up being quite heavy. I hung it in my kitchen on a secure hook, for about a month. The peppers began to dry and shrivel up. This changed the look of the wreath. When I needed a pepper for cooking, I could just snip one off. After about 3 months the peppers became so dry that the stems wouldn’t hold the florists wire any longer and they began to fall off. This isn’t a permanent wreath, but it was a fun accent for a few months. If you try this, make sure you wear gloves and don’t touch your face when handling the peppers. You can also make garlands or hanging ropes using onions and garlic. I did that years ago; again, they last for a while, but as they start to dry out, they fall apart. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back Growing Cantaloupe Hailey Linneman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Consider a new challenge when deciding what to plant in your vegetable garden next year - a fruit! Specifically, cantaloupe! It can be a challenge to grow cantaloupe in Minnesota but it is possible. And you will be rewarded with a delicious fruit. Cantaloupe require warm soil to thrive but they love our hot, sunny summers. You can achieve success by growing cantaloupe in raised beds, trellising the vines, and making sure they get adequate water, sunlight and protection from pests. Read this article to learn more about growing cantaloupe successfully. Consider a new challenge when deciding what to plant in your vegetable garden next year - a fruit! Specifically, cantaloupe! It can be a challenge to grow cantaloupe in Minnesota (even in smaller spaces) but it is possible. And you will be rewarded with a delicious fruit. Cantaloupe require warm soil to thrive but they love our hot, sunny summers. You can achieve success by growing cantaloupe in raised beds, trellising the vines, and making sure they get adequate water, sunlight and protection from pests. Before you plant your cantaloupe, consider getting a soil test. Melons grow best in well-drained, sandy loam soils, with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. A pH lower than 6.0 may result in a failed crop. Next, choose a melon variety that requires fewer days to harvest (65 – 80). This will increase the chances of growing the fruit in hot, sunny conditions. Decide if you want to start your seeds indoors or sow directly into your garden. Starting seeds indoors will give you a few extra weeks of growth, however cantaloupe are sensitive to root disturbance. You can sow seeds directly into your garden after the danger of frost has passed. Raised beds are ideal options for cantaloupe because the soil will warm up sooner. Additionally, raised beds offer good drainage, which is important for growing melons. small growing cantaloupe; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman To save space in your garden beds, you can trellis your melons. As the plants grow, tie them loosely to your trellis. Eventually, they will continue to grow around the trellis without your help. Depending on the size of your fruit, they may need extra support in the form of hammocks. You can use old nylons or t-shirts for this. However, if the vines are securely on the trellis, they should be able to hold the hanging fruit on its own. melon in sling; Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension As your cantaloupe begins to really take off in growth, pruning side shoots will encourage the main stem to continue growing up your trellis. It is also important to prune back side shoots on a trellised plant to avoid overcrowding and encourage air flow. Cutting off all leaves and side shoots on the bottom 12 inches of the plant will also help to avoid diseases from water splashing on the plant. A pest you may encounter is the striped cucumber beetle ( Acalymma vittatum ). It is yellow with three vertical black stripes. To remove the beetles, knock them into a cup of soapy water. The beetles feast on the foliage and blossoms of flowering plants. It is especially important to manage these pests when the plants are small. Read this article to learn more about the striped cucumber beetle. Striped cucumber beetles can carry the bacteria that causes bacterial wilt. Since melons are susceptible to bacterial wilt, monitor your plants for signs of the disease. Read more about bacterial wilt in this article . Other pests to watch for are spotted cucumber beetle, squash vine borer, squash bug, spider mites and aphids. striped cucumber beetle; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman Cantaloupe require 35 – 45 days to mature after flowering. When your fruit is ready to harvest, it will turn from green to yellow and the netting on the skin will become rough. You will also notice that the stem will start to turn brown. To harvest, twist the fruit gently. It should break away easily. Now, it’s time to slice open your melon and enjoy the fruit of your labor! maturing, hanging cantaloupe; Photo credit: Hailey Linneman Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/gardening-minnesota/growing-melons-home-garden Cucumber beetle link: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/cucumber-beetles Bacterial wilt link: https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/bacterial-wilt

< Back December - Enjoying the Winter Garden Dawn Struble As Minnesotans, we learn to appreciate the cycle of northern gardening. The truth is, after putting the garden to bed for the season, the winter respite provides a chance to enjoy the garden in different ways. Read this article for thoughts about how to enjoy your garden in winter. Over the years I’ve often exclaimed, “I wish I lived in zone 7 or 8!” Then I wouldn’t have to say good-bye to my gardens as winter arrives. But over the same years, I’ve come to appreciate the cycle of northern gardening. The truth is, after putting the garden to bed for the season, the winter respite provides a chance to enjoy the garden in different ways. Before the snow flies, make time to move any garden art or sculptures closer to your home’s windows. This will allow you to appreciate the light, shadows and snow accumulations on your art, as well as on standing vegetation, shrubs and tree branches during the snowy months. Now is also the time to make note of plants that may need to be moved, split or removed next spring. You will thank yourself in the spring for writing it down! Watching the snow for animal tracks will help you learn more about the variety and habits of wildlife in your area ( 12 weeks of winter: The scoop on scat | UMN Extension ). You can use the cold weather downtime to read some great gardening books ( Gift Idea: Good Books for Minnesota Gardeners (umn.edu) or Books that created conversation in 2021 | UMN Extension ). And nothing tastes better in the middle of winter than a warm muffin baked from the garden rhubarb you froze last June! ( Using your harvest | UMN Extension ). If you are really missing the dirt under your fingernails, try an indoor herb garden, or make a winter window box or front entry pot. Taking care of your garden tool maintenance is also a valuable task during frigid weather. ( Clean and disinfect gardening tools and containers | UMN Extension ). Get the family involved and combat the dark days by making beautiful winter luminaries. It’s a fun and rewarding project for everyone, and will brighten your yard and garden areas. As you take that winter vacation to warmer destinations, don’t forget about the reciprocal garden admission program for Minnesota Landscape Arboretum members. Reciprocal Admissions Program – American Horticultural Society (ahsgardening.org) . You’ll find the visit sparking your excitement for another season of northern gardening after the well deserved winter break. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Torange.biz (2)

< Back The Three Sisters Planting Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener As spring approaches, we begin to look for ways to not only welcome the “Little Sprouts” into our garden plan, but also create an education opportunity as well. Let’s explore how to best incorporate into our gardens more sustainable gardening practices no matter what the size through using the Three Sisters planting or “Milpa”. The Three Sisters planting creates a way that three crops - corn, beans and squash compliment and work together to create a beautiful sustainable harvest. As spring approaches, we begin to look for ways to not only welcome the “Little Sprouts” into our garden plan, but also create an education opportunity as well. Let’s explore how to best incorporate into our gardens more sustainable gardening practices no matter what the size through using the Three Sisters planting or “Milpa.” The Three Sisters planting creates a way that three crops - corn, beans and squash compliment and work together to create a beautiful harvest. The Three Sisters planting was first practiced by Indigenous peoples who learned that three crops - corn, beans and squash, planted together, help the other grows stronger and healthier. Each crop is an asset to the others and in the end provides what is needed to grow a healthy and sustainable garden. Photo of Three Sisters plant Corn, beans and squash are each planted separately at various times and provide the following benefit for the betterment of the whole. The corn stalk provides the stability or strength for the other crops to grow upon and is planted first. The strong and tall cornstalk can be seen as a support for the beans to grow upon. Beans are planted second in the rotation. The beans, when growing, provide the needed natural nitrogen to help all of the plants grow healthy. And they provide a crop high in protein when eaten. Finally, squash is planted last; but squash is important in that it provides a canopy on the ground as it grows to prevent weeds from growing. It also keeps the ground underneath cooler from the hot sun which prevents the ground from drying out so quickly. The Three Sisters planting is seen as sustainable in that it does not need a lot of space to produce a bountiful harvest and outside items are not needed or can be reduced, such as a structure, fertilizer, watering and weeding. How to Plant : Find a suitable site that receives full sun for 6-8 hours. Once a site has been located, mound soil 4-5 inches high. Within this mound, plant 4 corn seeds approximately 6 inches apart. Since we want the pole beans to grow up the corn stalk, please plant beans seeds when the corn stalk is 4-6 inches tall. The pole bean seeds (bush beans will not work - pole beans or a climbing variety are needed) can be sown at the bottom of the mound about 3-4 inches from the corn. Once the bean seeds have begun to grow, place two squash seeds approximately 24 inches from the center of the mound where the corn was planted. It is recommended that waiting about a week after the beans have emerged will ensure that the beans become established and begin to climb the corn stalk before the squash gets too big and shades off the beans. Squash should also be encouraged to trail out and not overcrowd the beans. Over the summer watch the three crops provide what is needed to the other two as a sustainable harvest is created. Enjoy sharing even more with your Little Sprouts from planting to harvest through using the Three Sisters planting method. Items Needed : Corn (tall variety) Seeds corn seeds Pole Bean Seeds pole bean seeds Squash Seeds (preferably winter squash) squash seeds Trowel Watering Can (Water) diagram of Three Sisters plant Planting a Three Sisters grouping with your little “growing sprouts” is easy and they will delight in watching and caring for the three plants as they grow. What a fun way to learn how plants can help each other thrive in nature. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1), www.pexels.com (2,3,4), www.wikimedia.com mons (5)

< Back New Chance Garden Project At Dakota County Juvenile Services Center Mary Galvin, edited by Julie Harris The Dakota County Master Gardeners partner with the Dakota County Juvenile Services Center in Hastings to plant and nurture a garden that teaches important lessons to the residents of the Center and provides produce for the county’s food shelves. The garden is part of the New Chance day treatment program. Male youth have the opportunity to work in the garden with the guidance of Master Gardeners. Read this article to learn more about how this important project serves as a teaching tool for youth and a source of food for county residents in need. The Dakota County Master Gardeners partner with the Dakota County Juvenile Services Center in Hastings to plant and nurture a garden that teaches important lessons to the residents of the Center and provides produce for the county’s food shelves. The Juvenile Services Center is a secured facility that provides detention and treatment services for youth. The garden is part of the New Chance day treatment program. Male youth between the ages of 14 and 17 have the opportunity to work in the garden with the guidance of Master Gardeners. Mary Galvin and Mary Beth Kufrin lead the project for the Master Gardeners. Several other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge to the project. What once was a small garden surrounded by turf was transformed into a multi-bed vegetable garden area with lovely wood chip borders and paths. Much credit goes to Dakota County staff and the program participants, who did the heavy lifting to make the garden happen. They prepared the area by removing the turf grass, tilling in compost, and laying out the garden bed areas and walkways with wood chips. This is the third year of the project which receives the enthusiastic support of Corrections and County officials, some of whom help with planting vegetables in the garden in the spring. Board Chair, Joe Atkins, Dakota County Commissioner Bill Droste, along with Community Corrections Director Suwana Kirkland, Deputy Director Matt Bauer, and Director of Community Services Marti Fischbach helped with planting the garden this year. The garden generated over 500 pounds of food last year. Most of this was donated to food shelves but some was enjoyed by youth in the New Chance program under the supervision of a nutritionist. Last year, Master Gardeners met with the New Chance participants to see what they wanted to grow. After a lively group discussion that included some general observations regarding our climate, our USDA zone, and growing season restrictions (which make pineapple and kiwifruit difficult to grow here), they made a list of possible produce to grow. Ideas include watermelon, strawberries, and rhubarb, collard greens, sweet corn, and pumpkins as well as garden staples like peppers, tomatoes, summer squash and onions. The participants also learn about pollinator friendly plants such as Zinnia and Swamp Milkweed. From planting day forward, Master Gardeners are in the garden weeding, watering, and harvesting alongside the staff and kids. One Master Gardener recalled how she described to a participant how food crops come from seeds, which grow into plants, which flower and bear fruit/vegetables, which in turn produce seeds. She said ‘it was like watching a light bulb turn on in the kid’s head as they made the connection.’ Other participants initially were anxious about seeing bees and wasps in the garden, but they also were interested to hear how non-threatening most insects are and how pollinators are essential to food production. In short, the hands-on aspect of the garden was an easy and informal way to educate. Dakota County Commissioner Mary Hamann-Roland, who was a driving force behind the garden, has said, “It’s been a great pleasure to work with the kids and staff and see the joy that the kids find in learning, picking and tasting new vegetables and fruit,” “It’s a metaphor,” said Hamann-Roland, “we need to tend to each other and when we do, we help our world grow.” Photo credits: Mary Galvin (1,2), Dakota County Commissioner (3)

< Back The Magic of Snow Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Nothing beats the beauty of a snow-covered garden. Falling or drifting snow creates interesting sculptures on our benches, arbors, and paths. Evergreens look brighter, and trees with ornamental bark are showing off against a white background. Crowns of sparkling white form on sedum, ornamental grasses, and other perennials we left standing in the garden. Snow is useful to gardeners in other ways, too. Learn more! Making the Most of a Snowy Winter When everything is covered in snow, the landscape is peaceful and still. The snow sparkles, and everything seems clean and pure. Yes, it’s cold! But aside from moving to a warmer climate, we can take advantage of the many benefits snow delivers to Minnesota gardeners. Most importantly, snow cover insulates your valuable plants from wind and sub-zero temperatures. Most winter damage to plants occurs when we don’t have sufficient snow cover. This is especially important for roots, which do not become dormant in the winter as quickly as stems, branches and buds. A good snow cover moderates the temperature of the soil. That’s good, because the roots of most trees and shrubs in Minnesota die at temperatures below 10 degrees. If you planted some new trees, shrubs and perennials this fall, you’ll want to wish for a deeper snow cover to protect those newly-formed roots. Snow also protects plants from the freeze/thaw cycles that heave them out of the ground. This happens because of the way snowflakes are shaped. There are small spaces in each one that are filled with air. As they pile up, the result is low heat conductivity so the daily temperature permeation into the snow is reduced and the plants are protected from really cold temperatures. Snow helps preserve moisture in the soil during winter and provides water to the soil as it melts in the spring. This slowly waters the emerging perennials. Here are some other ways to use the snow: Insulate your garden planters. If you overwinter any potted plants outdoors, shovel or blow snow onto the planters to protect the roots. Snow acts as a natural barrier to shield the ground beneath it from the really cold wind gusts. When it warms up, the snow will melt and act like a slow-release drip irrigation system. Snow insulates your garden planters and moistens the soil as it warms up. Collect snow in rain barrels. As it melts, use it to water spring ephemerals, moisten compost, and incorporate leaf mulch into the soil. It’s free, it’s clean (no chlorine or other chemicals added to our city water), and delivered free to your door. Some people call snow “the poor man’s fertilizer.” As it falls through the atmosphere, nitrogen and sulfur attach to the flakes. When the snow melts, these elements are released into the soil and absorbed by plants. Nitrogen is essential to plant growth. With everything covered in snow, your birdfeeders will lure more birds and other critters closer to your home. It’s easier to see them, too, with a heavy blanket of white in the background. For more information, check out this University of Minnesota resource: Protecting Trees and Shrubs in Winter - Protecting trees and shrubs in winter | UMN Extension Photo Credit: Connie Kotke (1), Mike Darcy, Black Gold (2)