< Back April Gardening in Minnesota: Early Vegetables and Indigenous Crops Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener As spring arrives in Minnesota, eager gardeners can start planting cool-season vegetables outdoors. Despite our short growing season, there are many options for early crops that thrive in our zone’s climate. As spring arrives in Minnesota, eager gardeners can start planting cool-season vegetables outdoors. Despite our short growing season, there are many options for early crops that thrive in our zone’s climate. Read this article to learn what vegetables can be planted in April along with some tips to make sure the planting is successful. Cool-Season Vegetables In mid to late April, you can plant these hardy vegetables: Potatoes Onions Beets Carrots Leaf lettuce Spinach Peas Radishes Kohlrabi Turnips These crops can withstand cooler temperatures and even light frosts. For best results, wait until the soil is workable and not overly wet to prevent compaction. Indigenous Crops Consider adding these native plants to your garden: Wild leeks (ramps) Jerusalem artichokes Groundnuts Wild leeks These indigenous vegetables are well-adapted to Minnesota's climate and offer unique flavors and nutritional benefits. To prepare your soil for planting vegetables in early April in Minnesota Wait until the soil is workable. Test by squeezing a handful - if it crumbles rather than forming a ball, it's ready. Clean up winter debris from garden beds once the ground has thawed. Add 2 inches of compost or organic matter and work it into the top 6 inches of soil. This improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and increases water retention. For heavy clay soil, consider adding some sand to improve drainage. Test your soil pH and nutrient levels. Amend as needed based on test results. Loosen compacted soil using a broadfork or garden fork, being careful not to disturb soil structure. For cool-season crops like lettuce and peas, apply a light organic fertilizer to the top few inches of soil. Use raised beds or cold frames to warm the soil more quickly for earlier planting. Avoid overworking wet soil, as this can damage its structure. Wait for several days of temperatures in the 50s before thorough preparation. Gardening Tips for April in Minnesota Watch the weather: April can be unpredictable, so be prepared to protect plants from late frosts. Prepare the soil: Once the ground has thawed and dried sufficiently, add compost or organic matter to improve soil structure. Start seeds indoors: For crops like broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting outside. Use season extenders: Cold frames or hoop houses can help protect early plantings and extend your growing season. Clean up carefully: Remove winter debris slowly to protect overwintering pollinators. Wait for several days of temperatures in the 50s before thorough cleanup. By following these tips and choosing the right crops, Minnesota gardeners can get a head start on the growing season and enjoy fresh, homegrown produce earlier in the year. References: https://www.thompsonfamilyfarmmn.com/blog/2021/04/what-veggies-can-i-plant-in-april-in.html https://atthefarmwaconia.com/plants-and-planters/gardening-advice/cold-crops/ https://extension.umn.edu/news/spring-yard-and-garden-preparation https://northerngardener.org/april-garden-chores-a-careful-dance/ https://www.ramseymastergardeners.org/post/cold-hardy-vegetables-and-flowers-for-minnesota-s-short-spring https://www.jimwhitingnursery.com/garden-advice/spring-planting-tips-for-minnesota/ https://www.cbsnews.com/minnesota/news/spring-gardening-dos-and-donts-from-the-minnesota-landscape-arboretum/ https://malmborgsinc.com/blog/minnesota-gardening-guide-april/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-staple-vegetables-around-world-minnesota https://www.reddit.com/r/minnesota/comments/ua91q3/gardening_tips/ Photo credit: Itoldya test 1-getarchive (all creative commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Susan Maher, University of Wisconsin-Madison (3)

< Back Therapeutic Landscapes for Stress Relief Feeling stressed? Has the Covid culture left you feeling socially isolated? Learn about the healing power of gardens and gardening in this article. Cathy Johnson, Master Gardener The notion that gardens are healing places is not new. It is well supported in research that outside settings improve mental and physical health . . . improved focus, improved creativity, reduced depression and stress, shortened hospital stays and increased test scores in classrooms where plants are growing. One only has to look at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Nature Heals Toolkit to see the profound connection between nature and healing. After all, folks are Covid weary beyond belief and wondering - is there some end in sight for the recurring surges and resulting restrictive lifestyle which seems to be the new norm? Peter Petrow of the Washington Post wrote an article, ‘Embracing Healing Places,’ which led me to thinking about how therapeutic landscapes might just be even more healing now than ever. After all, humans are “biophilic” - innately drawn to life - because we are genetically connected to plants and nature. Being in nature makes our brains secure, more connected to what our bodies are experiencing. But the Covid pandemic resulted in more of us working indoors, some seldom having to leave our places of residence. We have become used to using our computers to shop and having items delivered, reducing the need to go outside. Social isolation can only increase feelings of disconnect, and a longing for things to “get back to normal.” Geraldine Perriam, a professor at the University of Glasgow, states that humans, while on a quest for healing, seek not just a cure, but alleviation and improvement in life style. The question for individuals then becomes, ‘Where do you need to go to for healing? What places make you feel better. The answer will be different for everyone, but a few common threads emerge from research, which are helpful to us all. Water is the most common element listed in descriptions of healing places. The colors of blue and green are associated with calm, positive energy and better health outcomes. The obvious connection between the life-giving properties plants and water, comes to mind. On a quest for a feeling of well-being, columnist Pagan Kennedy suggests just going someplace where you can work the soil with your hands. Why? M. Vaccae , a soil bacterium, acts like an anti-depressant once it enters the human body. David Conradson, professor at the University of Canterbury New Zealand, suggests that folks go wherever they feel connected to nature. Are your senses being stimulated . . . all five of them? Sensory stimulation is essential to achieving balance and a sense of ease. In these Covid weary times, humans want to feel “put together again.” Gardening is an authentic experience which provides all of the elements which humans seek in that quest for alleviation, a path toward healing. In imagining your “therapeutic landscape,” remember to think about where you need to go to feel better and be intentional about recognizing those feelings. Look at a map and find green or blue spaces, walk in your yard, or a neighborhood park. Go out of your way to seek your healing place. As for me, I think I’m headed for a garden with some green and blue, some trickling water, some fragrances, warmth, humidity, and just a place to unwind. Maybe I’ll see you there. Hygge on! References: Nature Heals Community Engagement Toolkit, University of Minnesota Extension Larson, Jeanne and Mike Maddox. Center for Spirituality and healing University of Minnesota. Presentation in June of 2019 at State Master Gardener’s Meeting. “Healing Aspects of Gardening” Petrow, Steven. Washington Post, ‘Embracing ‘healing places,’ January 4, 2022. Many references cited. Photo Credit: Free from Pixababy (1,2) & University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Hydrangeas – An Essential Garden Classic Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The Hydrangea shrub is a classic garden staple because of its hardiness and beautiful blooms. Shopping for Hydrangea at your local garden store can be overwhelming because there are many different varieties of this lovely perennial shrub. This article describes the different varieties, their characteristics and care needs. Read on to learn more about which hydrangeas would work well in your yard. Hydrangea is a hardy and popular shrub that thrives in Minnesota’s climate. They provide beautiful flowers later in the season and large attractive leaves in a shape that provides excellent structure in your garden. When choosing hydrangea, it is important to note that they are not all the same. The different varieties have different characteristics and care needs. This article will discuss the features and needs of four different types of hydrangeas. Hydrangea paniculata have cone shaped flowers that change from light green to deep pink and then tan flower heads in the fall. The flower heads provide landscape interest during the winter and make beautiful indoor flower arrangements all winter. Paniculata ‘s flowers are not susceptible to frost damage because they bloom on new wood. Hydrangea paniculata can grow to 7 feet tall. Pruning should be delayed until late winter or early spring. The pruning cut or head cut, should be ¼” above the swollen bud. Click here for more information about pruning hydrangeas from the University of Minnesota Extension. Fertilize in spring and early summer with a general garden fertilizer. Favorite panicle hydrangeas are: Quick Fire (H paniculata ‘Bulk’) Limelight (H paniculata ‘limelight’) First additions, Berry White (H paniculata ‘Reuba’) Hydrangea macrophylla , “big leaf hydrangea” or “mophead hydrangea,” is a zone 5 plant that can do well in southern Minnesota. It typically grows 3 – 6 feet tall and wide and produces large clusters of long-blooming flowers either in lacecap or mophead form. Blooms are pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils and blue in highly acidic soils. Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old and new wood. Prune hydrangea macrophylla in early fall after they are done flowering with a diagonal cut ¼” above the bud. The Endless Summer ( H. macrophylla ‘Bailmer’ ) cultivar is an exception; this cultivar blooms on last year’s wood and new wood. This variety will bloom whether it is pruned or not. Prune in August after flowering. Fertilize three times a season with small amounts beginning in the early spring. Popular varieties are: Blushing Bride Bloom Struck Summer Crush Twist ‘n Shout Hydrangea aborescens or “smooth hydrangea” needs to grow several seasons before pruning. It has giant white flower heads that bloom in mid-summer. They turn green when dry. They typically grow 3 – 6 feet. Apply one application of fertilizer in late winter or early spring. When the shrub is established, prune it to the ground in the spring. Flower buds grow on this season’s growth or new wood. Examples of Hydrangea aborescens or smooth hydrangeas are: Annabelle (H. aborescens ‘Annabelle’) (a classic) Invincible mini mauvette (H. aborescens) Incrediball (H. aborescens ‘Abetwo’) (bred to have stronger stem strength) Hydrangea petolaris or climbing hydrangea is a tough wood vine that produces large clusters of white flowers. It likes full sun to part shade and acidic soil. This sturdy vine can grow 30-50 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide. Plant this vine on a sturdy trellis or fence where you want to have a dense long-living screen. Once established, this vine can be aggressive. Climbing hydrangea needs to no pruning. Only prune out the dead wood stems. Types of climbing hydrangea: Miranda Silver lining Flying Saucer Other facts to know about hydrangeas care: Sunlight: Most hydrangeas like morning sun and afternoon shade. Most will not bloom if planted in full shade. Fertilizer: General garden fertilizer is adequate for hydrangea. Water: Over or underwatering will result in fewer blooms. Test the soil with your finger and don’t water if the soil is wet. Soil Nutrients: A lush bush plant with no blooms is a sign of too much nitrogen. Check to see if lawn fertilizer is getting into the soil. Lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen. Pruning: Over pruning and pruning in the spring can cause a hydrangea to skip blooming. Pruning in late spring can cut off too many buds. Weather: Late freezes can damage new buds and be the reason for no blooms. Hydrangea is a beautiful shrub along a foundation or as an anchor for a perennial bed. Be sure to read the height information that accompanies your shrub. Individual Hydrangeas have different leaf structure, bloom size, and colors. This shrub is easy to grow. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-4) Resources : University of Minnesota, extension.umn.edu/hydrangea Monrovia, Monrovia.com Missouri Botanical Garden.org https://www.thespruce.com/climbing-hydrangea-vines-2132893

< Back Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricate): A Big Punch in a Little Packet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener It’s that beautiful carpet of pastels appearing in moist woodlands across the Midwest in the spring – Woodland Phlox. Otherwise known as “Sweet William,” this native plant has many reasons to be at home in your garden. Read more about the virtues of Woodland Phlox and then decide if you will grow it from seed or as an established plant. Not only will you enjoy this plant but pollinators love it as well. The Phlox family (Polimoniaceae), tend to be a diminutive bunch, with delicate spring blooms. Their delicacy is both charming and deceptive as they are a persistent bunch that will form a lovely groundcover if left to their own devices. This is certainly true of woodland phlox which is found across the entire Midwest although more prevalent in the northwest, inclusive of the deciduous forests of Minnesota. There it can carpet the ground, blooming from mid to late spring. You will find it most profusely in a mesic forest, that is, one in which an ample supply of moisture is found throughout the growing season. It will however grow in most woodlands as long as there is moisture during its blooming season in spring. Ironically, woodland phlox is very summer drought resistant. Thus, it is hardy across the Midwest from Zones 3 through 8. Woodland phlox readily grows from seed and will self-sow quite vigorously. This is an important characteristic, as the individual plant is fairly short-lived for a perennial at 3 to 5 years. As you might imagine, it is a shade-loving plant but will tolerate part sun. As it blooms in the spring, the light blue flowers exude its delicate perfume earning its other name of ‘Sweet William.’ Woodland phlox in bloom in a mesic forest Woodland phlox combines quite well with a variety of other woodland, shade-loving plants. It fits in nicely with other later-blooming groundcovers or larger shade perennials. The springtime stalks rarely exceed 18 inches and quickly disintegrate after blooming. Since the foliage often disappears after blooming, it does not make a good stand-alone ground cover and should be integrated with other species. Unfortunately, the bunnies love woodland phlox so it’s best to protect new plantings until a bigger colony is established. As is the case with so many native perennials, woodland phlox is pollinator friendly and attracts bumblebees, sphinx moths, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you are thinking about installing a pollinator lawn, woodland phlox can be integrated into the shady parts quite easily. Woodland phlox blooms range in color from white to soft blue. Occasionally you will find some rosy to purplish flowers. Since these folks do self-seed, the color of various strains will modulate from generation to generation. Yet the perfume of springtime ‘Sweet William’ is ethereal no matter the hue. Woodland phlox blooms may assume a variety of colors Photo Credit: University of Wisconsin Extension (1,2)

< Back The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Who knew that the life of an “agricultural explorer” could be both fascinating and suspenseful. Read this review of book, “The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats” to learn why food exploration can be exciting! Reviewed By Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener A century ago, the American table was a simpler place. Vegetables and fruit were limited to what could be grown in the home garden or found in a grocery store. Some of the items missing from that world? Kale, mangoes, avocados, seedless grapes, zucchini, soybeans, pistachios, Meyer lemons, and more. Then along came botanist David Fairchild (1869-1954), the Indiana Jones of the plant world. In his book The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats (2018), author David Stone uses Fairchild’s journals, letters, and photographs to document the extraordinary journeys of the man who changed American culinary life forever. This is a riveting tale of exploration and horticulture, of espionage and diplomacy, of the finest German hops and the famed cherry blossom trees of Washington, D.C. Fairchild’s story takes him from Kansas to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, where he works with a meager budget assisting the American farmer fighting crop fungus. Then a chance meeting with a wealthy benefactor named Barbour Lathrop allows the young man to leave his post and travel as a private citizen, circling the globe on a mission to ship back samples of exotic plants and seeds as an “agricultural explorer,” as he refers to himself. Fairfield’s team transports both plants completely new and foreign varieties of species already known in the United States. Along the way, Fairchild and his team escape dangerous situations, face political resistance from multiple governments, and cross paths with famous figures like the Wright Brothers and Alexander Graham Bell. When Fairchild settles down at the age of 34, he founds the Office of Seed and Plant Introduction with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which introduces over 200,000 new plant species and varieties to the country. This book is highly recommended to foodies, gardeners, and history buffs alike. It can be found in the Dakota County Library system.

< Back Starting Seeds Indoors If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil but reading this article will help you learn how to grow seeds successfully indoors. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings growing vigorously in a warm humid environment Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credit: University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Plant American Bittersweet and Gourds for a Fall Reward Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener If you want to have beautiful American Bittersweet or quirky gourds this fall, find a place for them in your garden this spring. Read this article to learn more about why you want these plants to be part of your garden and how to grow them successfully. American Bittersweet American Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) is a stunning addition to a garden and a beautiful fall extension of the season. American Bittersweet should not be confused with Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus scandens). The Oriental bittersweet is the invasive variety with the ability to girdle and overpower natural vegetation. Double check the identification tag when purchasing, making sure that the plant is American Bittersweet. American Bittersweet vines up and over an arbor with tiny white flowers in the spring, dark green foliage in the summer and bright red/orange berries the fall. A mature female plant will produce flowers that develop into berries. Located at the end of the woody stem, the berries make attractive arrangements indoors and food for birds outdoors. A new variety, Summer Rhapsody, has been developed by the University of Minnesota. This new variety does not need both female and male plants for berries to form. Bittersweet requires full sun, regular garden soil, and a 6 -10 foot arbor or trellis to climb and grow. American bittersweet is losing its natural habitat of woodlands, fence rows, and open prairies but can still be found in the Midwest. American bittersweet would be a rewarding addition to a native garden. Gourds Fall is a ‘bittersweet’ time for gardeners. In one respect the gardener is reflective on a successful season but sad to see blooms fade. The addition of gourds to a fence row or on a 6 foot trellis will hide the fading foliage of other plants. Gourds are members of the pumpkin family and sometimes confused with pumpkins and squash. Gourds are one of the oldest cultivated plants. Egyptians used them for water bottles and as utensils, storage containers, and dippers by indigenous peoples of North America. They can be found at farmer’s markets designed as bird houses and other items. Numerous varieties of gourds are easy to grow in regular garden soil and can be planted around other crops. Gourd vines have tiny tendrils that reach for wire or another plant to twine around. They will also trail on the ground. Gourds are interesting for color, shape, texture, and color. Preparation of gourds for carving is a year long process. After the frost has killed the vines, arrange the harvested gourds in a shed or dry garage. Let the gourds dry for 6 months to a year. Then, using a small sharp tool make an incision and clean out the inside. Seeds will rattle in dry gourds. Scrub the exterior to remove dirt and let the gourd dry before painting. Gourds are hard shelled so unlike the soft-shelled pumpkin they will last in an indoor arrangement. American bittersweet and gourds will extend your gardens life. Gifting a gourd and bittersweet to friends is a particularly enjoyable activity at the end of the growing season. Photo credits: Gail Maifeld (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Ragweed – Our Favorite Weed to Hate Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you sneezing, have itchy or swollen eyes, scratchy throat or nasal congestion these days? The cause might be ragweed! Ragweed pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies or hay fever. And, it can stay with us until October! Read this informative article about how to identify and control Ragweed this season. Achoo! August is the start of back-to-school sales and ragweed season, which lasts through mid-October (ragweed season, that is!). Ragweed pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies, often called hay fever. Preen’s webpage addressing Ragweed called it “the champion of sneeze-inducing weeds” ( Preen ). Many people blame goldenrod for their allergies however all the references used in this article were clear that it is not goldenrod but ragweed that is causing all the misery. Goldenrod Symptoms of Ragweed allergies include sneezing, eyes that may be itchy or swollen, a scratchy throat, runny nose, nasal congestion and/or sinus pressure and pain, coughing, and even sleep disruptions ( Minnesota ENT ). About 10% of the population are allergic to Ragweed. Ragweed has been found across the whole country, with 17 varieties identified. There are three kinds of ragweed that grow in Minnesota: Common Ragweed ( Ambrosia artemisiifolia ), Giant Ragweed ( Ambrosia trifida), and Western Ragweed ( Ambrosia psilostachya) . The three types look different, with Giant Ragweed distinguishable due to its large size, growing up to 17-20 feet. Common Ragweed reaches a height of 2-4 feet, and Western Ragweed grows to a height of 1-3 feet. All three have distinctly different leaves. Western Ragweed leaves are hairy and are oval-lance shaped that are deeply lobed. Common Ragweed’s leaves are fernlike, and Giant Ragweed has palmately lobed leaves. The Common Ragweed has a taproot, Giant Ragweed has fibrous roots with a short tap root, and Western Ragweed has fibrous, creeping rhizomes ( Cornell CALS , Minnesota Wildflowers ). They all grow in disturbed soil, with Common Ragweed common in both rural and urban settings. Common Ragweed’s seed production, per plant, is 3,500 seeds compared to Giant Ragweed’s seed production of 10,300 seeds per plant. Seeds from both plants can live in the soil for up to 30 years, with only 50% depletion seen in 1.5 to two years ( Time to Remove Flowers, UMN IPM Extension , Common and Giant Ragweed Identification ). The seeds are dispersed through wind, water, animals (rodents and birds), and farming practices. A single Ragweed plant can produce up to a billion grains of pollen ( Preen ). Ragweed pollen travels! It has been found 400 miles out to sea and 2 miles into the air ( Minnesota ENT ). This graph from the Minnesota Department of Health (2020) shows the types of pollen and their percentages. Ragweed represented almost 60% of the pollens sampled in the air. Link: Pollen Charts, MN Department of Health All forms of Ragweed can be difficult to control. The best approach is the manual method of plant removal, especially pulling them out before August to avoid pollen release. You can also repeatedly cut them down to keep them from flowering. Herbicides are not generally recommended unless you are farming, which then requires significant applications. Ragweed plants have developed resistance to many herbicides, so if your preference is to use herbicides, it may require the use of several types and several applications. Because ragweed is one of the earliest plants to germinate in the spring (but don’t start causing problems for humans until they start flowering in August), the best method of control is to hand pull them. It is also important to remove them from the yard quickly as they can re-root if left in a debris pile. References: Bayer, Crop Sciences United States: https://www.cropscience.bayer.us/articles/channel/common-and-giant-ragweed-identification-and-management Cornell College of Agriculture and Life Sciences: https://cals.cornell.edu/weed-science/weed-profiles/giant-ragweed Minnesota Department of Health (MDH): https://data.web.health.state.mn.us/pollen_charts Minnesota Ears, Nose, and Throat (ENT) Specialists: https://minnesotaent.com/goldenrod-or-ragweed-whats-worse/ Minnesota Wildflowers: https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/common-ragweed https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/western-ragweed Missouri Department of Conservation: https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/giant-ragweed Preen: https://www.preen.com/learn/lawn-garden-tips/weed-control/weed-notes/how-to-control-ragweed/ University of Minnesota Weed Identification: https://extension.umn.edu/weed-identification/annual-broadleaf-weeds#ragweed%2C-giant-8380611 University of Minnesota Extension Fruit and Vegetable News: https://blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu/2024/08/why-remove-flowering-weeds.html University of Minnesota Extension Yard and Garden News: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/zero-seed-rain Photo Credits: Chris Evans, University of Illinois, Bugwood.org (1), www.publicdomainpictures.net (2), Strand Memorial Herbarium (3-6), https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/western-ragweed (7)

< Back Explore the Virtues of Wild Ginger for your Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Many gardeners love a good cookbook for the bounty we grow. But what about recipes? Now that we’ve rounded the corner from April to May, it’s off to the races, back to the garden centers to do some window shopping and more often than not, bring home a new addition (or 20). As I continue to develop my garden, now entering its 4th growing season, I reflect back on what has worked, what can be removed and gaps I need to fill. This season I am focusing on ground covers, specifically Wild Ginger, which can be added as a beneficial plant, address a difficult site, and create a point of interest in the garden. Note - Wild Ginger is inedible and should not be confused with the Ginger that you might find in a grocery store. This Minnesota native plant has soft, heart-shaped leaves with a smaller heart-shaped cutout where the leaf meets a fuzzy stem. Wild Ginger will grow approximately 8 inches in height, making it perfect to be placed in front of leggy plants and has a spreading nature of approximately 15 inches. Hardy to Zone 2, this tough plant can make it through some of the worst winters and come out the other side healthy and thriving. Wild Ginger does well in both shade and part shade locations making this plant optimal below the canopies of more mature trees or in north facing gardens. Gardeners should use caution though, if planting in a space that receives a lot direct sunlight, as the leaves could burn. Wild Ginger can tolerate some drought but prefers moist, not wet, well-draining soil. A true “set it and forget it” plant, pruning will not be necessary unless you are clearing away dieback or want to create a more compact spread. Wild Ginger is a slow growing plant that spreads underground, through rhizomes. In the early spring, shallow lateral root systems make division and transplanting easy. This versatile plant is used as a unique ground cover that provides many solutions and benefits in a garden. Best Suited Spaces Rain Garden Shade Garden Woodland Garden Native Plant Garden Problem Solver Erosion control on slopes Ground Cover Weed Suppressant Early Pollinator The first thing that caught my eye when I considered Wild Ginger was its attractive spreading nature. If there is one thing gardeners are not fond of, it’s weeds. This workhorse plant will push out competing non-native, invasive spreading plants and weeds, giving you more time to enjoy your garden and less time fussing over uninvited guests. At first glance, you might not suspect that Wild Ginger contributes to early pollination, but it does! Hidden beneath the leaves of this ground cover plant, you will discover a brownish purple jug shaped flower that sits near the base of the plant. This flower can attract some lesser-known pollinators, such as ants and pollinator flies which are looking for food sources as the snow begins to melt. Diversity is the key to a healthy garden. Consider adding some Wild Ginger to your landscape, it will not disappoint, and be sure to check out our article on Gardening in Shade to discover some other shade loving ground cover options. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Wisconsin Extension (2)

< Back Yes, You Can Grow Shade-Loving Plants Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Many people think that shade just creates problems for the garden. This article explains how wrong that can be. Read on to learn more about which trees, shrubs and perennials can prosper in your shady garden. You may consider your garden to be “shady,” but is it in full shade or part shade? Full shade is defined as an area that receives less than 4 hours of direct sun per day. Part shade is defined as a garden that receives 4 to 6 hours per day. How much sun (take into account reflected or filtered sun) does your garden get? The easiest way to measure sunlight exposure is to simply observe your planting area every 30 minutes or so throughout the daylight hours over a week or two. Use those observations to determine the average amount of time the area receives sunlight, dappled sunlight, or shade. When you have determined the average amount of sunlight an area receives, you can choose plants that match the conditions of the site. Research the plants before buying and planting. You should also take into account the condition of your soil. Is it clay, sandy or loamy, is it dry or wet, acidic or alkaline? (Click here to find out about soil tests: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) Consider the following plants for your shady garden. SMALL TREES Saucer Magnolias Saucer Magnolias (30’) are shrub-like trees. They grow at a moderate pace producing goblet-shaped flowers in shades of white, pink, and purple. The buds are attractive to deer and rabbits. They grow well in many soil types, especially organic-rich soils that stay moist. They are useful in tight spaces and can be near a foundation without causing problems. Eastern Redbud (zones 4-9) Eastern Redbuds (20’-30’ x 25’-35’) produce violet-pink blossoms on bare branches in early to mid-spring before heart-shaped foliage emerges. Eastern Redbuds grow at a medium rate, and tolerate many soil types, from clay to sand, from alkaline to acidic. Water regularly when young; once established, they’re drought-resistant. SHRUBS Azalea The University of Minnesota’s Northerns Lights series has a wide range of colors. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas . If you look at other growers, be sure to purchase plants grown in Minnesota. Acidic soil (pH 4.5-6.0) is very important. Try to site azaleas at the edges of shade. Aronia, Chokeberry Aronia does best in part shade. In the spring they are covered in white blossoms, in the fall they provide bright color. Chokeberry Aronia Snowberry Snowberry produces tiny pink flowers and white berries the size of peas. Is is very hardy with a wide tolerance of soil types, and moisture conditions. The drupes attract many birds. Weigela Weigelas, like azaleas, bloom better with more sun rather than less, but are not so picky about pH. The blossoms are white, pink, mauve and red. The leaves can range from light green to dark and many have stunning bronze foliage. Weigela PERENNIALS If you would like more ideas, please download this table. It should dispel any question in your mind that there are a wide variety of perennials that will grow well in your shady garden. Shade Plant Table .pdf Download PDF • 131KB Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1), www.flickr.com – All Creative Commons (2), www.thisgrandmothersgarden.com – All Creative Commons (3), www.publicdomainpictures.net – All Creative Commons (4)

< Back Making Something Lovely After the Blooms Have Faded Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s October in Minnesota and most of your plants are no longer blooming. It’s always a bit sad to see your colorful garden fade for the season. But many of these flowers leave behind lovely seed pods or lovely flowers heads. This article shows you how you can take dried plants from your garden and turn them into a beautiful wreath to enjoy inside. It’s October and most of your flowers are probably no longer blooming. Last year at this time I took a walk around my yard and noticed how many lovely seed pods, dried flower heads, and grass stalks were still waving in the fall breeze. Usually, I fill baskets with them or vases (no water) and set them all over the house for natural, soft color pallet decorations. This year I decided to try my hand at making a wreathe. It wasn’t difficult, just took some time. Boy did it make a mess, but that’s what vacuum cleaners are for, right? Since I had so many dried flowers and grasses, I bought a very large grapevine wreathe to use for my base. I thought I would have to hot melt glue the stems to it, or wire them, or sew them, like I did with the cayenne pepper wreath that was featured a few years ago in the Garden Buzz. This time I kept the stems long when I cut everything out of the gardens, and it worked just fine to gently weave them through the grapevine. Take some time to plan your layout, coming up with a pleasing design based on what you have. For the wreathe pictured here, I used Globe Hydrangea, Garlic Chive, Pampas Grass, Pearly Everlasting and a few ornamental thistle heads. It’s a good idea to spray the entire thing with cheap aerosol hairspray when you are done before you hang it up. Spray it outside. This will help hold the blooms and grasses as they continue to dry out over the years. Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)

< Back Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Is there a food more identified with October than pumpkin! Of course not! So, here is Joy Johnson’s delicious recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake. Joy says she is targeting adults with this recipe but kids will love it, too! Pumpkin is nutritious and delicious. It can be used in a variety of ways. It’s easy to get kids to eat their veggies when you roast them, bake them in a pie or make a frothy drink out of them. Remember Harry Potter’s love for Pumpkin Juice? I shared all those recipes in last year’s October Garden Buzz, so I thought I’d focus on the adults this year. Yes, you can have your coffee and eat it too. Here is a recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake , with coffee frosting of course! Cake Ingredients: ½ cup butter, room temperature 2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar 1 T pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 15 oz can pumpkin puree 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 ¼ tsp baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ teaspoon ground ginger ¾ teaspoon ground cardamom 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg ¾ teaspoon salt Frosting Ingredients: ½ cup salted butter, at room temperature 2 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature 1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar 1 T instant coffee powder 1 T vanilla extract Process: Preheat the oven to 350. Grease and flour an 8-inch square baking pan. MAKE THE CAKE: In a stand mixer, beat together the butter, brown sugar, vanilla, eggs, and pumpkin on low until combined, about 1 minute, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cardamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix at medium speed until completely smooth with no lumps remaining, for about 2 minutes. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the center is just set, 25-30 minutes, place it on a cooling rack. Let cool. MEANWHILE, MAKE THE FROSTING: Beat together the butter and cream cheese until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, instant coffee powder, and vanilla. Beat until the frosting is light and fluffy, 2-4 minutes more. Spread the frosting over the cake. Slice, snack and enjoy. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Photo Credits: www.aceofgray.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)