< Back Explore the Virtues of Wild Ginger for your Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Many gardeners love a good cookbook for the bounty we grow. But what about recipes? Now that we’ve rounded the corner from April to May, it’s off to the races, back to the garden centers to do some window shopping and more often than not, bring home a new addition (or 20). As I continue to develop my garden, now entering its 4th growing season, I reflect back on what has worked, what can be removed and gaps I need to fill. This season I am focusing on ground covers, specifically Wild Ginger, which can be added as a beneficial plant, address a difficult site, and create a point of interest in the garden. Note - Wild Ginger is inedible and should not be confused with the Ginger that you might find in a grocery store. This Minnesota native plant has soft, heart-shaped leaves with a smaller heart-shaped cutout where the leaf meets a fuzzy stem. Wild Ginger will grow approximately 8 inches in height, making it perfect to be placed in front of leggy plants and has a spreading nature of approximately 15 inches. Hardy to Zone 2, this tough plant can make it through some of the worst winters and come out the other side healthy and thriving. Wild Ginger does well in both shade and part shade locations making this plant optimal below the canopies of more mature trees or in north facing gardens. Gardeners should use caution though, if planting in a space that receives a lot direct sunlight, as the leaves could burn. Wild Ginger can tolerate some drought but prefers moist, not wet, well-draining soil. A true “set it and forget it” plant, pruning will not be necessary unless you are clearing away dieback or want to create a more compact spread. Wild Ginger is a slow growing plant that spreads underground, through rhizomes. In the early spring, shallow lateral root systems make division and transplanting easy. This versatile plant is used as a unique ground cover that provides many solutions and benefits in a garden. Best Suited Spaces Rain Garden Shade Garden Woodland Garden Native Plant Garden Problem Solver Erosion control on slopes Ground Cover Weed Suppressant Early Pollinator The first thing that caught my eye when I considered Wild Ginger was its attractive spreading nature. If there is one thing gardeners are not fond of, it’s weeds. This workhorse plant will push out competing non-native, invasive spreading plants and weeds, giving you more time to enjoy your garden and less time fussing over uninvited guests. At first glance, you might not suspect that Wild Ginger contributes to early pollination, but it does! Hidden beneath the leaves of this ground cover plant, you will discover a brownish purple jug shaped flower that sits near the base of the plant. This flower can attract some lesser-known pollinators, such as ants and pollinator flies which are looking for food sources as the snow begins to melt. Diversity is the key to a healthy garden. Consider adding some Wild Ginger to your landscape, it will not disappoint, and be sure to check out our article on Gardening in Shade to discover some other shade loving ground cover options. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Wisconsin Extension (2)

< Back The Minnesota Lawn Guide: Attaining and Maintaining the Lawn You Want Gail Maifeld The Minnesota Lawn Guide, by Melinda Myers will give you tips on growing the perfect lawn in Minnesota. Whether establishing a new lawn, restoring an existing one or fixing spots, this easy to read book will help answer all your questions. Fall is cleanup time for the garden. The drought of the 2021growing season has been a challenge for all gardening. Watering restrictions presented challenges for lawn care. Melinda Myer’s book, The Minnesota Lawn Guide, provides fall procedures that would be helpful to revitalize a lawn. Written in plain language the author addresses variable weather, unpredictable rain, and long harsh winter effects on grass. Good soil is the foundation for a healthy lawn so a soil test is recommended. Individual chapters about watering, fertilizing, mowing, turf varieties, and the best seeds are included. THE MINNESOTA LAWN GUIDE is a necessary reference for the new lawn process, lawn restoration, and spot restorations. Melinda Myers is a well-known PBS presenter, has 13 years experience at the University of Wisconsin Extension Service, and is editor/columnist for Birds & Bloom Magazine.

< Back The Three Sisters Planting Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener As spring approaches, we begin to look for ways to not only welcome the “Little Sprouts” into our garden plan, but also create an education opportunity as well. Let’s explore how to best incorporate into our gardens more sustainable gardening practices no matter what the size through using the Three Sisters planting or “Milpa”. The Three Sisters planting creates a way that three crops - corn, beans and squash compliment and work together to create a beautiful sustainable harvest. As spring approaches, we begin to look for ways to not only welcome the “Little Sprouts” into our garden plan, but also create an education opportunity as well. Let’s explore how to best incorporate into our gardens more sustainable gardening practices no matter what the size through using the Three Sisters planting or “Milpa.” The Three Sisters planting creates a way that three crops - corn, beans and squash compliment and work together to create a beautiful harvest. The Three Sisters planting was first practiced by Indigenous peoples who learned that three crops - corn, beans and squash, planted together, help the other grows stronger and healthier. Each crop is an asset to the others and in the end provides what is needed to grow a healthy and sustainable garden. Photo of Three Sisters plant Corn, beans and squash are each planted separately at various times and provide the following benefit for the betterment of the whole. The corn stalk provides the stability or strength for the other crops to grow upon and is planted first. The strong and tall cornstalk can be seen as a support for the beans to grow upon. Beans are planted second in the rotation. The beans, when growing, provide the needed natural nitrogen to help all of the plants grow healthy. And they provide a crop high in protein when eaten. Finally, squash is planted last; but squash is important in that it provides a canopy on the ground as it grows to prevent weeds from growing. It also keeps the ground underneath cooler from the hot sun which prevents the ground from drying out so quickly. The Three Sisters planting is seen as sustainable in that it does not need a lot of space to produce a bountiful harvest and outside items are not needed or can be reduced, such as a structure, fertilizer, watering and weeding. How to Plant : Find a suitable site that receives full sun for 6-8 hours. Once a site has been located, mound soil 4-5 inches high. Within this mound, plant 4 corn seeds approximately 6 inches apart. Since we want the pole beans to grow up the corn stalk, please plant beans seeds when the corn stalk is 4-6 inches tall. The pole bean seeds (bush beans will not work - pole beans or a climbing variety are needed) can be sown at the bottom of the mound about 3-4 inches from the corn. Once the bean seeds have begun to grow, place two squash seeds approximately 24 inches from the center of the mound where the corn was planted. It is recommended that waiting about a week after the beans have emerged will ensure that the beans become established and begin to climb the corn stalk before the squash gets too big and shades off the beans. Squash should also be encouraged to trail out and not overcrowd the beans. Over the summer watch the three crops provide what is needed to the other two as a sustainable harvest is created. Enjoy sharing even more with your Little Sprouts from planting to harvest through using the Three Sisters planting method. Items Needed : Corn (tall variety) Seeds corn seeds Pole Bean Seeds pole bean seeds Squash Seeds (preferably winter squash) squash seeds Trowel Watering Can (Water) diagram of Three Sisters plant Planting a Three Sisters grouping with your little “growing sprouts” is easy and they will delight in watching and caring for the three plants as they grow. What a fun way to learn how plants can help each other thrive in nature. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1), www.pexels.com (2,3,4), www.wikimedia.com mons (5)

< Back Your Answers to Rain Barrels - To Use or Not to Use You may have considered a rain barrel for your yard but wondered whether it was right for you. Rain barrels have environmental benefits but there are pros and cons to using them in your garden. This article provides some helpful information to help you decide whether to invest in a rain barrel for your garden. Linda Holt, Master Gardener You may have considered a rain barrel for your yard but wondered whether they were right for you. This article explains some of the pros and cons of using rain barrels to provide water to the plants in your garden. You will want to decide whether a rain barrel will fulfill your garden’s specific needs to the extent that will make it worth the expense and upkeep. A few of the Pro’s for using a rain barrel in your yard include: 1. The cost of water is going up and the ability to use municipal sources to water your landscape are becoming more limited. Harvesting rainwater may lower your water bill. 2. Rain barrels are a good way to “maximize environmental value” by reducing run-off into the streets and the pollutants that are picked up along the way that are feeding into our streams, rivers and lakes. 3. The rain water is a great alternative for the ornamental plants in your yard as well as indoor plants. 4. This water source can be utilized any day of the week. 5. Rainwater may contain minerals that are beneficial to plants; However, there are some cons to rain water usage: 1. The water is not safe for drinking nor should it ever touch the edible parts of any plants grown for consumption. The rainfall is collected from a roof / gutter system, the runoff of which may include various “harmful pathogens” resulting from bird fecal matter, rotting leaves, etc. 2. To collect enough water for your purposes you may need multiple rain barrels. 3. Some upkeep is necessary to keep your rain barrel in good shape. Most rain barrels hold around 50-55 gallons of water. In order to determine how much rainwater you can expect from your rain barrel, you must estimate the amount of run off from your particular roof. This requires a thoughtful determination of the square footage of the roof area multiplied by the rainfall in inches and a conversion factor that converts the inches of rainfall to gallons per sq foot. This calculation can be found at: https://extensionpublications.unl.edu/assets/html/g2220/build/g2220.htm Rain barrels can be purchased from various retailers or on-line and come in a variety of shapes and designs. They can also be self-built. There are many DIY rain barrel ideas that can be found on the internet if you prefer to build your own. As mentioned in the above online publication, rain barrels are best dark-colored or opaque as light colored barrels allow sunlight in encouraging algae growth. Rain barrels come complete with a hose guide, overflow tube and screen (to keep critters and debris out) and are relatively easy to install. You will want to position the rain barrel under a drain spout so that the run-off from the roof will flow into the rain barrel. The overflow tube prevents the barrel from overflowing and directs the excess water to a garden bed or base of a tree. You can attach a drain tube to the overflow tube to reach the area of the garden that you wish to receive the water. Cleaning a rain barrel should be done annually in the fall when they are removed and stored away for winter, however, you may need to do it more frequently if they grow algae and get smelly. You should drain the barrel and remove any remaining debris. Scrub the inside of the barrel with a long-handled brush using water and detergent then rinse thoroughly. Including a rain barrel in your landscape may be just the answer to your irrigation concerns. The University of MN extension department has a handy article for you to peruse when giving consideration to this subject. You will find additional information at: https://extension.umn.edu/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard/rain-barrels Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back Raspberry Delights Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Yes, it’s December and there probably isn’t anything growing in your garden right now, since you live in Minnesota. But not that long ago you may have had a bumper crop of berries that are now in your freezer. Here’s a fresh idea for strawberries, blackberries, gooseberries, and raspberries. I love raspberries. After all what’s not to like? (Don’t answer that. They do have thorns, but I can overlook one minor flaw). They are sweet and sour all at once, have a fresh fruity fragrance and come in a variety of colors and flavors. And most important, they have seeds that stick in your teeth, which gives you a really good excuse to chew on a toothpick – something my mother never let me do. She said I was going to trip and fall, and it would go through the roof of my mouth (which has never happened). I grow a variety of raspberries. Most of my plants bear red berries that all get ripe within a 3 to 4 week period in the middle of July. I also have a few black raspberries, which are so little and sweet, it’s an absolute delight to eat them fresh off the bush. My golden raspberries are deer magnets, so last spring I moved them all into the end of my fenced-in vegetable garden where the deer and rabbits can’t eat them. They ripen all season long. Note - they do not work well for the recipe below because their golden color turns to brown when heated. Last July, my brother and his family were visiting from Oregon. I was watching the kids for the day while mom and dad had a break. The raspberry bushes were loaded with raspberries ready for picking, so I marched the kids down to the patch to pick with the promise that we were going to make raspberry treats, IF we could pick enough berries. With this motivation, they grabbed buckets and followed me down. They were so excited to see all of the berries and eagerly started picking. Suddenly, “Auntie, what’s this?” and “Oh yuck”, then, “Auntie, there are bugs everywhere!” The bushes were covered with Japanese beetles. They were devouring the raspberry leaves and even some of the berries. I said, “This is war, show no mercy!” They looked askance at me. “Don’t let the invaders destroy my berry patch!” I commanded. “Can we just flick them off?” my niece asked. “No, that doesn’t do any good they will just come right back.” Then I told them to do what I usually do, “You have to pinch their heads until you hear a satisfying crack.” I nearly caused a stampede back to the house with those instructions. So, I quickly changed to a softer approach, “here’s a bucket with soapy water in it, brush them into them into it or shake the branch over the bucket.” That was something they could do. We divided our team into 2 bug brushers and 3 berry pickers. In no time at all we had a couple of buckets full of berries, plenty for Raspberry Tarts (see that recipe in the Master Gardener Cookbook, for sale on our website) and Raspberry Stars . We gently washed the berries and then mixed 2 cups of them with 2 Tablespoons sugar, and 2 tablespoons corn starch dissolved in ¼ cup of water . The rest of the berries were divided between some for freezing and some for eating fresh. Then we made the Raspberry Stars. They are best eaten when still warm out of the oven. They don’t keep, so we took one for the team and ate all 18 of them with tea! They also make a beautiful Christmas morning pastry because of their color and shape. A light dusting of powdered sugar gives a snowy touch. I am hoping you have some raspberries in your freezer that you can use for the Raspberry Stars, but if you don’t, store bought Raspberry Jam works too. Raspberry Stars 1 Puff Pastry Sheet (each sheet will yield 9 pastries) 4 Tablespoons Filling (see above for recipe) OR Raspberry Jam 1 Egg 1 Tablespoon water Powdered Sugar for dusting Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper. Lay frozen puff pastry on clean work surface and allow to thaw 10 minutes or more. Do not unfold until thawed. Unfold and cut it into 9 equal squares. Beat the egg in a small bowl with the water, set aside. With a sharp knife tip, score L-shaped cuts at the corners of each pastry square. You may need to use a kitchen shears to cut the L-shapes after using the knife. Place 1 teaspoon filling onto the center of each square. Take the outer corner of each puff pastry and fold over into the middle. Dip you finger in the egg water and use it to ‘glue’ each tip into the center. Do this with all four corners, shaping folds into a bow. Using a pastry brush, brush the edges of the pastries with the egg water. Bake for 13-14 minutes or until they puff up and the edges are golden. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack. Dust with Powdered sugar and serve. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Holiday Cacti Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are beautiful flowering holiday plants Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are two beautiful flowering holiday plants. They are often given as gifts during the festivities. Believe it or not, these plants are native to Brazil, but have been a favorite indoor plant in the United States for many years. They can live a very long time (100+ years). Some people have trouble getting them to bloom and there are a few tricks one needs to be aware of to produce healthy, vibrant blooms. First, holiday cacti like high humidity and bright, filtered light. They need relatively moist soil with 1 part potting soil, 2 parts peat moss and 1 part sand. They do not tolerate standing in water or extreme cold air drafts. Holiday cacti, however, do need shorter days and cooler nights in order to produce blooms. Placing plants in a cool, bright location where daytime temperatures are 65-70 degrees and evening temperatures are 55-65 degrees will encourage bud development after approximately 5-6 weeks. Once the plants have bloomed, reduce the frequency of watering until spring when there is more active growth. These plants are relatively easy to take care of if you follow these instructions. If you are having trouble with your plants blooming there are usually 3 possible causes (assuming the plant is healthy): Indoor air is too warm: lower the room temperature to 55-65 degrees at night, 60-65 degrees during the day. Plant days are too long: this is usually not an issue in Minnesota if near a window but one can put the plant in total darkness for a minimum of 12 hours. Plant does not have enough nutrients to produce buds. Fertilize the plant at half strength with a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium (0-15-10). For a more comprehensive article about these plants, check out this website: Common Issues with Holiday Cacti Photo credit: Janelle Reitz-Kamenar

< Back November - Creative Uses for Plants Beyond their Prime Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener When we put our Northern gardens to bed for winter, sometimes we just want to be done: move our growing indoors for the winter, or even take a break from growing entirely! But there are fun and useful things we can do instead of just cutting, pulling and tossing into the compost. Plants can provide us with usefulness and beauty even when they are no longer growing. When we put our Northern gardens to bed for winter, sometimes we just want to be done: move our growing indoors for the winter, or even take a break from growing entirely! But there are fun and useful things we can do instead of just cutting, pulling and tossing into the compost. One practical and sustainable use of dead plant material is to use old sunflower stalks for trellises. A traditional teepee trellis is one method to try and you can watch this video from the MI Gardener to see another option. Ornamental uses of last season’s plant material abound! When some of your plants are still holding onto a hint of their fall colors, cut yourself a bouquet. The colors aren’t summery and vibrant, but they are certainly seasonal. Curing winter squash and gourds? Use them as a sunny table’s seasonal decoration. We plant certain varieties of plants specifically for their ‘winter interest’. So why not enjoy the plant indoors in winter too? Dried grasses and seed-heads make a great winter bouquet if harvested before wet winter snows bury them. For more information on preserving plant materials, check out this Purdue University publication . When we winter-prune our shrubs, trees and vines, think ahead to next year before tossing the trimmings. Dogwood branches are the most obvious plant to save for decorative purposes. Their signature red, yellow and even coral branches look great in outdoor winter greenery decorations. They can also be paired with pansies in the spring or included in dried flower arrangements. Use the trimmings from hardy kiwi, clematis, grapevines or other woody vines for wreaths or garden orbs. Check out the U of MN Extension Pruning Guide for more information on when to prune trees and shrubs. Are you ready to look ahead to next year’s plantings with additional uses in mind? Consider planting scarlet runner beans. The beans can be eaten raw when small, cooked once the actual beans have formed and then preserved as dried beans when the growing season ends. You can let the seed pods dry on the vine, but you can also harvest the beans fresh from the pod. Shucking the large beans is especially entertaining for kids as the beans inside are often shades of vibrant pink and purple. When the beans are totally dry, they are black with purple spots! The dried beans can be used as sensory play objects for small children and then planted again the following year. In addition, the vines have seemingly never-ending blooms of red flowers that attract hummingbirds. Plants can provide us with usefulness and beauty even when they are no longer growing. Photo credits: Joanna Kapke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Raccoon Grape: Ampelopsis cordata A Tough Customer in the Beds Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener This month marks the beginning of a series by Master Gardener Jim Lakin on native vines. First up is the Raccoon Grapevine (Ampelopsis cordata). Raccoon Grapevine is quite a vigorous vine plant which, if managed well, will reward the grower with a spectacular display. Read this article to learn more about this hardy vine. You’ve probably never run into Raccoon Grape in any landscape manual. That’s because it’s a tough customer and will take over everything in its path. It puts out runners rambunctiously and self-seeds abundantly in disturbed soils (like a cultivated garden bed). Planted in harsh sites with poop, drought-prone soils it can spread to spectacular effect; however, I have had some in a potentilla bed next to the house. I let it spread up the banister, creating a lovely effect. Two or three times a season, however, I have to get into the bed itself and tear out the vine to give the potentilla a chance. It requires a little effort but the effect is spectacular. diagram of grape leaf and berry Now that you have been warned, let’s talk about the distribution and growth characteristics of this fellow. Raccoon Grape is common across the Midwest along the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. You’ll find it in hedgerows and disturbed soils all over lower Minnesota. It is said to be hardy through Zone 5, although it has done very well in our gardens in the south suburban Twin Cities. The vine is tolerant of a wide variety of soils and will grow vigorously from seed. Indeed, its strong point is its ability to go “where no plant has gone before”. Raccoon Grape leaf The flowers of Raccoon Grape are unremarkable but visited by a variety of small insect pollinators. The grapes are inedible but appear in early fall in a wide range of colors, ripening from a fuchsia pink to aqua and finally navy blue. They are big hits with songbirds and, you guessed it, raccoons. The leaves turn a sunny yellow in the fall. Raccoon Grape berry So, if you are careful in placement and not afraid of curbing the vigor of Racoon Grape, this can be a hardy, strategic addition to difficult spots as well as a beautiful accent to arbors or fences. Photo Credits: Missouri Department of Education; https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/raccoon-grape (1), www.missouriplants.com (2), Kansas Native Plants; https://kansasnativeplants.com/guide/plant_detail.php?plnt_id=153 (3)

< Back New Chance Garden Project At Dakota County Juvenile Services Center Mary Galvin, edited by Julie Harris The Dakota County Master Gardeners partner with the Dakota County Juvenile Services Center in Hastings to plant and nurture a garden that teaches important lessons to the residents of the Center and provides produce for the county’s food shelves. The garden is part of the New Chance day treatment program. Male youth have the opportunity to work in the garden with the guidance of Master Gardeners. Read this article to learn more about how this important project serves as a teaching tool for youth and a source of food for county residents in need. The Dakota County Master Gardeners partner with the Dakota County Juvenile Services Center in Hastings to plant and nurture a garden that teaches important lessons to the residents of the Center and provides produce for the county’s food shelves. The Juvenile Services Center is a secured facility that provides detention and treatment services for youth. The garden is part of the New Chance day treatment program. Male youth between the ages of 14 and 17 have the opportunity to work in the garden with the guidance of Master Gardeners. Mary Galvin and Mary Beth Kufrin lead the project for the Master Gardeners. Several other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge to the project. What once was a small garden surrounded by turf was transformed into a multi-bed vegetable garden area with lovely wood chip borders and paths. Much credit goes to Dakota County staff and the program participants, who did the heavy lifting to make the garden happen. They prepared the area by removing the turf grass, tilling in compost, and laying out the garden bed areas and walkways with wood chips. This is the third year of the project which receives the enthusiastic support of Corrections and County officials, some of whom help with planting vegetables in the garden in the spring. Board Chair, Joe Atkins, Dakota County Commissioner Bill Droste, along with Community Corrections Director Suwana Kirkland, Deputy Director Matt Bauer, and Director of Community Services Marti Fischbach helped with planting the garden this year. The garden generated over 500 pounds of food last year. Most of this was donated to food shelves but some was enjoyed by youth in the New Chance program under the supervision of a nutritionist. Last year, Master Gardeners met with the New Chance participants to see what they wanted to grow. After a lively group discussion that included some general observations regarding our climate, our USDA zone, and growing season restrictions (which make pineapple and kiwifruit difficult to grow here), they made a list of possible produce to grow. Ideas include watermelon, strawberries, and rhubarb, collard greens, sweet corn, and pumpkins as well as garden staples like peppers, tomatoes, summer squash and onions. The participants also learn about pollinator friendly plants such as Zinnia and Swamp Milkweed. From planting day forward, Master Gardeners are in the garden weeding, watering, and harvesting alongside the staff and kids. One Master Gardener recalled how she described to a participant how food crops come from seeds, which grow into plants, which flower and bear fruit/vegetables, which in turn produce seeds. She said ‘it was like watching a light bulb turn on in the kid’s head as they made the connection.’ Other participants initially were anxious about seeing bees and wasps in the garden, but they also were interested to hear how non-threatening most insects are and how pollinators are essential to food production. In short, the hands-on aspect of the garden was an easy and informal way to educate. Dakota County Commissioner Mary Hamann-Roland, who was a driving force behind the garden, has said, “It’s been a great pleasure to work with the kids and staff and see the joy that the kids find in learning, picking and tasting new vegetables and fruit,” “It’s a metaphor,” said Hamann-Roland, “we need to tend to each other and when we do, we help our world grow.” Photo credits: Mary Galvin (1,2), Dakota County Commissioner (3)

< Back February - Starting Seeds Indoors Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener If you want to grow plants from seed for your garden this spring, February is the time to start – planning and planting. There is a little more to it than dropping a seed in soil. By February anything that’s green and growing is a welcome rebuke to the unending whiteness outside. Of course, you can run to your favorite nursery and buy a big, beautiful blooming house plant, but I find great joy following a more quietly satisfying route---starting my own plants indoors from seed. It really is not all that difficult if you pick the right plant. Different seeds require different treatments to wake up and start growing. Some need to sit in a moist cold environment for 4 to 8 weeks—stratification. Others, with tough coverings need to be roughed up a little bit to get going--scarification. Other seeds benefit from an initial soaking in water to loosen up the coating. Others need a few minutes in boiling hot water to kick start the germination process. You can find out if the seed you select needs any of this “special handling” by consulting the catalogues of the seed companies from which you purchase them. If you are picking up a packet locally, be sure to carefully read the fine print for any recommended pre-planting treatments. Many commercially processed seeds are ready to sew without further ado. Once your seeds have been through pre-treatment, you will need a container with good drainage. This can be as simple as a plastic food container or milk carton bottom with a liberal number of holes poked in the bottom or more elaborate seed germination trays available at local garden stores or garden departments of “big box” wholesalers. Cell flats can be ideal yet inexpensive reusable germination containers. If you are shopping for containers, also pick up some seedling mix. There are a number of mixtures commercially prepared for germination. Later, as the plants grow, you’ll want to transplant into potting soil. Do not use garden soil or top soil. These are way too heavy and you’ll get lousy germination results. Plant your seeds to a depth roughly equal to the diameter of the seed. You will want to place a transparent cover e.g., clear plastic, Saranwrap, over the container to keep up the humidity until the plants develop. What to do next depends on how much you want to invest in the process. If you have a sunny window-sill that stays close to room temperature around the clock, that may be all you need. Most folks have better results using grow lights which permit setting up away from windows, which tend to get drafty. Run you lights 12 hours per day. Also, the addition of seedling heating pads can help a lot especially if you keep the thermostat turned down in the house. Keep the medium moist. Check at least every two days and water as needed. It may take several weeks before you see those little green guys popping out of the soil. Germination times vary widely. Again, read the fine print on the seed packet for guidance. Seedlings are growing vigorously in a warm humid environment. Once the seedlings have appeared, be sure to keep the germination media moist, the grow lights on and let nature take its course. After a few weeks, the root system may have completely filled the medium. It’s time to transplant. If you are using germination trays, you usually can pop the small plant out with a spoon or other small scoop. Transplant them into well-draining pots. I usually use 4-inch diameter light plastic ones which are cheap and readily available. As the plants get bigger consider adding a small amount of liquid fertilizer diluted to one-fifth to one-tenth of the manufacture’s recommended concentration. Continue to keep them warm and watered with ample light. Then, start watching for the trees to green, the birds to sing and the last frost to pass. Once that happens, it’s time to transplant your beautiful plants into the garden! For more information, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors / Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens): An American Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener American Bittersweet is a hardy native vine traditionally found on country roads and farms. It puts on a beautiful display of orange-hulled fruit in autumn. It has been a favorite material for welcoming door wreaths. Read this article about this beautiful and useful native Minnesota plant. A few years back, each fall we used to scan the shoulders of country roads for native bittersweet. It was an old custom of local farm folk to make wreathes of bittersweet to hang over their doors as a welcome. Apparently, this old folkway has caught on and wild bittersweet has become a rarity, at least around the Cities. Fortunately, this hardy native vine can still be purchased at local nurseries and you can “grow you own” fall decorations. Bittersweet is found in mesic woods, woodland edges and hedgerows throughout the Upper Midwest. Its great attraction is its display of orange-hulled, vermillion fruit which form in the late summer, creating a brilliant display in autumn after leaf-drop. Bittersweet is fairly easy to grow in well-drained soil. It isn’t too fussy about the clay soils we so often encounter here. Full sun to part shade is a must for vigorous growth. Although the vine can be slow growing for the first season or two it will eventually take off and be quite drought resistant. This is a plus given the dry summers we have recently been experiencing. You will want to place it on a fence or a trellis as it is a vigorous woody vine. Another approach is to plant it among established small trees in a woodland edge. This sets it up for a show in the late fall when the trees are bare. One caveat : Celastrus scandens is dioecious, meaning vines are either male or female. So, it takes “two to tango” to generate that wonderful orange-red fruit. Hopefully your nursery can help you to obtain the correct gender of vines. If you are growing bittersweet from seed or are purchasing seedlings, plant several of them in proximity to assure a male and female vine for fruiting. One other caveat : American bittersweet should not be confused with Oriental Roundleaf bittersweet ( Celastrus orbiculatus ). The latter is native to China but has proven to be highly invasive here in North America. In theory it should no longer be sold in commercial nurseries, but you never know. It is pretty easy to differentiate from American bittersweet in that the native plant’s fruit capsules are orange. Oriental bittersweet’s fruit capsules are yellow. American bittersweet’s fruits are on the terminal stem ends. Orientals are along the stems at the leaf axis. If you come across oriental bittersweet on your property, eliminate it! The MN Department of Agriculture has good information on the subject: ( https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants/pestmanagement/weedcontrol/noxiouslist/orientalbittersweet/bittersweetdiffs ). Photo credits: MN Department of Agriculture (all)

< Back Timing For Cutting, Pruning and Dividing Plants Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Gardeners understand that most plants and trees in their yards need to be pruned at times. The problem is that knowing when to prune can be confusing. Not all plants and trees should be pruned at the same time of year. Master Gardener Cherise Skeba found it hard to keep track of when to prune the plants in her yard despite a diligent effort to learn about each plant. After doing her research, she developed 7 rules that help her and can help you, to know when to prune to keep your plant healthy and producing beautiful blooms. Read this article to learn the 7 helpful rules As a garden enthusiast, I understand the need to cut, prune, divide and otherwise clean-up plants in my garden and yard. However, I have not found a reliable and easy system to know the best timing for these maintenance efforts. I have purchased gardening calendars and gardening books to help create a maintenance schedule. I even started a catalog for my individual plants, noting the recommended maintenance tasks and timing. I still found myself searching the internet every time I wanted to understand maintenance timing for a specific plant. There must be a better way to retain garden maintenance knowledge! This idea led me to review many garden maintenance articles and develop a simple rule set based on common plant characteristics that can be used to guide appropriate timing for plant cutting, pruning and dividing in northern climates. Here are seven rules to help everyone remember when to cut, prune and divide plants. Rule 1 : Dead, significantly diseased or severely insect-infected plant parts should be cut off from perennials and shrubs as soon as the problems are apparent. Rule 2 : Herbaceous perennials (stems die back to the ground each year) should be left intact to overwinter and then be cut down to the ground in the spring prior to blooming. This practice gives insects and animals food and shelter during the winter months. In addition, leaving the plants intact improves their winter survival chances. Autumn Joy Sedum in winter Exception: In the autumn, cut down to the ground perennials that have a history of disease or are especially prone to insect infestations. Cutting these plants back in the autumn reduces the chances of pests surviving through winter. Common plants that meet this exception are B ee balm, R udbeckia, I ris, P hlox, P eonies and A sparagus (acronym BRIPPA). Rule 3 : Division of perennial flowers should be completed in the spring for fall-blooming plants and in autumn for spring-blooming or summer-blooming plants. Rule 4 : Spring-flowering shrubs (bloom before June, e.g. lilacs, forsythia, mock orange, azaleas and rhododendron) should be trimmed immediately after the blooming period ends. These shrubs grow blooms on one-year-old wood. Trimming after the bloom period keeps the blooms intact for the current year and promotes new growth for blooms in the following year. Exception: A heavy prune to regenerate an overgrown spring-blooming plant should be completed in the winter. This will reduce the spring blooms but will ultimately promote a healthier plant. Rule 5 : Summer-flowering shrubs (bloom after June, e.g., Ninebark, panicle Hydrangeas) should be trimmed during late winter to early spring. These shrubs grow blooms on “new wood” (this season’s growth) and should therefore be trimmed prior to the time the new branches begin to grow to preserve the current year’s blooms. Do not prune shrubs late summer through autumn since this will promote new growth that would be susceptible to winter damage. Summer Ninebark Rule 6 : Deciduous trees , including fruit trees, should be pruned late winter. Winter trimming allows a full view of the tree’s shape and allows the wounds to heal before warm-weather pests begin to flourish. Refinements: Oak trees should not be pruned after February to avoid the spread of oak wilt disease. River birch trees should be pruned early in the winter after the leaves have fallen. Rule 7 : Evergreen shrubs and trees should not be pruned since branch removal may damage the integrity of the tree and new growth will not occur when pruning back to older growth. New evergreen buds (but not branches) may be trimmed in early spring to help shape the evergreens and promote density. I’ve created a short rhyme to help me remember the appropriate timing for cutting, dividing and pruning plants: Garden Pruning Calendar Herbaceous perennials peak through the snow But in the spring, cut to the ground or mow. Divide perennials in autumn if they bloom in the spring But divide in the spring if autumn blooms cling. Trim spring-blooming shrubs after flowers fade But wait until winter if there is a fall flower parade. Prune trees in the winter if they drop their leaves But evergreen plants should be left to do as they please. Cutting and pruning schedules for specific plants can be found in the citations below which also provide additional guidance for how to cut and prune plants. Citations with individual plant lists “How to Divide and Transplant Perennials”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/how-divide-and-transplant-perennials “Pruning Flowering Shrubs”, Rutgers University http://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1221/ “43 Perennials to Cut Back in the Spring”, The Spruce http://www.thespruce.com/pruning-perennials-in-spring-1402713 “Pruning Guide”, Bachman’s http://bachmans.com/information/resource-hub/pruning-guide “Pruning trees and shrubs”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/pruning-trees-and-shrubs General citations “How and when to divide perennials”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/dividing-perennials “Proper Time to Prune Trees and Shrubs”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/proper-time-prune-trees-and-shrubs “Pruning Deciduous Shrubs”, University of Wisconsin http://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/pruning-deciduous-shrubs/ “Cut Back Perennials Now or Later?”, Purdue University http://www.purdue.edu/hla/sites/yardandgarden/cut-back-perennials-now-or-later-2/ “How and When to Prune Flowering Shrubs”, Penn State http://extension.psu.edu/how-and-when-to-prune-flowering-shrubs “The Nuances of Pruning Spring-flowering Shrubs”, North Dakota State University http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/news/columns/dakota-gardener/dakota-gardener-the-nuances-of-pruning-spring-flowering-shrubs “Dormant Season Tree and Shrub Pruning”, University of Illinois http://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/dormant_season_pruning_infosheet.pdf “Pruning Shrubs and Hedges in the Home Garden”, University of Maryland http://extension.umd.edu/resource/pruning-shrubs-and-hedges-home-garden/ “Leaving Perennials Standing: Pros and Cons”, Northern Gardener, Minnesota State Horticultural Society http://northerngardener.org/leaving-perennials-standing-pros-and-cons/ Photo Credit: www.forestryimages.org (Creative Commons)(1), Les Hutchinson, flickr.com (2) flickr.com (3)