< Back Don’t Let the Snow (or Lack of) Determine Next Year’s Blooms Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Garden Intern It’s October and soon the winter snow will be here, or will it be? We all remember the “lost winter of 2023-2024” when Minnesota received record warmth and lack of snow. Just as a super cold winter can damage your plants, so can a super warm, snowless winter. This article explains why these extreme temperature variations can harm your plants and what you can do to protect them. October is the time to prepare your plants for the winter! In the article *Winterizing Plants: Cold Damage, Julie Weisenhorn, U of MN Extension horticulture educator says, “ Lack of snow cover and dry, droughty conditions negatively influence winter soil temperatures and cause root injury.” In Minnesota, the earth rotates on its axis at about 700 mph. The ground beneath our feet, known as the earth’s lithosphere, is in constant motion also. Yet we don’t “feel the earth move under our feet”, unless an earthquake occurs or you’re Carole King. Instead, we see the effects of this movement. We see it in the passage of a 24-hour day, in the cracks of an asphalt driveway, or the heaving of landscape edging over an extended period of time. We also see the effects it has on our perennials as this heaving occurs. Heaving is the upward movement of soil due to wide temperature fluctuations coupled with the expansion and contraction of moisture (water) within the soil. The tiny root hairs of a plant are microscopic and invisible to the human eye. They are responsible for absorbing water and nutrients for the plant. The freezing and thawing process of heaving, negatively affects these tiny hair roots, resulting in damage or even death to a plant. And at times, if the plant was not properly planted, heaving can push the plant up from the ground exposing its roots to other damaging environmental conditions, such as insects, diseases, and animals. To minimize heat loss in the soil surrounding the plant, and the potential for heaving, winterize your plants with shredded wood mulch. Shredded leaves also provide a good source of organic mulch, as well as pine needles. Four to six inches of mulch will help the soil temperature remain consistent and help prevent heaving. Other helpful considerations for Minnesota gardeners include: Select plants according to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map. Watch “Right Plant Right Place” video series on the U of MN Extension You Tube channel to learn how to give your plants the best start possible. Continue to water your plants until the ground freezes. Water serves as an insulator; well-watered soil retains heat. And as your plants come to life in the spring, they’ll get their first drink of water as the ground thaws. And if possible, mulch after the top one to two inches of the ground has frozen. The mulch helps retain moisture from watering. In summary, to prevent potential root injury, Weisenhorn says, “Snow cover and mulch are good insulators and help keep soil temperatures warmer . . . Soil moisture is important to root and plant health.” So, the big question on many people’s minds is, “Will we get snow this winter or see a repeat performance of the Lost Winter of 2023-2024?” “Hard to say what exactly will happen for the winter of 2024 -‘25, but it would be difficult to have a repeat of the record warmth and the nearly snowless winter of 2023-’24,” says Assistant State Climatologist Pete Boulay, MN DNR. “The Winter Outlook (December-February) from the Climate Prediction Center depicts a slight tendency for below normal temperatures over Northwest Minnesota with equal chances of below normal and above normal temperatures across the rest of the state. There is a slight tilt for above normal precipitation across the eastern half of the state. La Niña is expected to be present this winter. For me, I prepare for the worst and hope for the best!” We can’t control the weather, but we can in part, minimize the effects it has on our plants with proper planning and preparation. Whether it snows or not this coming winter, let’s plant and maintain properly, water sufficiently and mulch so your plants will have a blooming tomorrow. Make sure your plants will be the “Happy Perennials of spring 2025.” To read more on The Lost Winter of 2023-’24, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/lost-winter-2023-24.html . To learn more about the intricacies of a plant root system, log on to https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ . For fun facts about Minnesota weather, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/summaries_and_publications/normalsportal.html . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkaBGry87JE&list=PLyMOSdo2sM9sqq7P8DR8qKV8f_bkPXAgG&index=1 * https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/winterizing-plants-cold-damage Photo Credit: https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.) for Tough Growing Sites Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Pussytoes is a cute name for a sturdy native plant. If you are looking for a tough, resilient groundcover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennarias (Pussytoes). The genus Antennaria boasts dozens of species native to the temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. Here in the Northern Midwest, we have two commonly found species: Antennaria neglecta or Lesser Pussytoes and Antennaria plantaginifolia or Plantain-Leafed Pussytoes. Together these two fellows provide great ground covers for various environments where most other plants fear to tread. Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) in spring, with flower buds The Pussytoes derive their name from the silky white flowers which form in tight clusters that resemble a cat’s toe. The plants are dioecious (either male or female). Male plants’ flowers disintegrate rapidly but the female plants’ blooms are longer lived being supplemented by a tuft of awned fruits that look frothy when ripe. Lesser or Field Pussytoes ( Antennaria neglecta ) are found in dry prairies, savannas and open woodlands in difficult, often eroded areas where little else will grow. Thus, they can compete in spite of their small stature. Their basal leaves are only some 3 inches tall and the flower spikes grow to no more than 8 inches. They do well in dry, hot areas with full sun. They are ideal for so-called “hell strips” between urban sidewalks and streets. They spread by rhizomes into masses several feet in width. If you want to increase your plantings, they are easily propagated by division. In contrast, Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes ( Antennaria plantaginifolia ) grows better with more shade than does Lesser Pussytoes. It does just fine in a shady moist area. As a matter of fact, its leaves may burn if the plant is in a location that is too sunny, too dry or too hot. Like Lesser Pussytoes, it will densely cover ground prone to erosion. Its leaves are wider with three noticeable veins. It does bear a resemblance to plantain, a not so popular addition to many suburban lawns. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes also spread by rhizomes and can be propagated by division or grown from seed. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) So, if you are looking for a tough, resilient ground cover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennaria . Photo Credit: flickr.com (1) & gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org (2)

< Back Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens): Romance in the air Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener A warm summer night and the fragrance of wisteria is in the air. Okay, I admit to being a bit of a romantic, but this gorgeous native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. Learn why and how to grow this lovely climbing vine in your garden in this article. Wisteria frutescens or Amerious native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. can wisteria is a woody, deciduous, climbing vine native to the wet forests and stream banks of the southeastern United States with a growing range stretching from the states of Virginia to East Texas extending southeast through Florida and north to New York and the Central Midwest extending into southern Minnesota . Fragrant, pea-like, lilac-purple or blue flowers will develop in April-May after the leaves emerge. Sometimes some additional blooming will develop in the summer. Although the flowers are usually blueish, some cultivars will produce white or dark burgundy blooms, or even have hints of yellow or green. If you are going to give American wisteria a go, you should of course provide some fairly sturdy trellising as the plant can grow as tall as 15 to 40 feet and 4 to 8 feet wide. Wisteria likes full sun (6 + hours per day) but will soldier along in part shade (2-6 hours of direct sunlight). Blooming might be a problem if it is overly shaded. It will do well in either clay or loam but good drainage of moist, occasionally wet soil is important. Wisteria also likes acid soil with pH tending toward 6.0 which is why it does well on a moist forest border. It acts as a host for larval forms of several butterflies and functions as an important nectar source for both bees and butterflies. American wisteria is relatively resistant to most pests, although honey fungus can be a problem as are a number of chewing insects. Deer and rabbits don’t usually consider wisteria as their first choice on the menu. Flowering usually occurs in the second or third year although not always, so be patient! Failure to bloom may be due to too much shade as we said, so choose your site well. Wisteria frutescens does not like to be transplanted. Frost damage or over fertilization may sometimes be the causes of non-flowering. A judicious application of 10-10-10 in the spring usually suffices. Also, since it is hardy only to Zone 5A, it might be prudent to mulch heavily in the fall in a southern Minnesota garden. Some nice cultivars to look for in your local nursery include “Alba” and “Nivea” with white flowers, “Magnifica” and “Swantly Purple”. “Amethyst Falls” produces a lovely, lightly fragrant lavender-purple bloom. Pruning should usually be done in the spring after flowering to control the size and spread of the plant. American wisteria does well as an accent to native or pollinator gardens especially on slopes, banks or rock walls. Regardless of placement it will add a colorful, fragrant and, perhaps romantic element to your landscape. Photo Credit: USDA (1), Bev Wagar, NC State Extension (2)

< Back African Violets Julie Harris, Master Gardener African Violets are one of the most popular houseplants because they require little maintenance and, cared for properly, bloom several times a year. But, as with any plant, they do have specific needs that you must know and pay attention to in order to provide the color and pleasure that you are hoping for. Read this article to understand how to achieve a happy, healthy African Violet in your home. African Violets are a popular houseplant because they are low maintenance and if cared for properly, will bloom several times a year. African Violets ( Saintpaulia ionantha ) were discovered in the 1890s by Baron Walter von Saint Paul in Tanzania. Ionantha refers to the violet color of the flowers, although many hybrids and varieties are now available, including different flower colors. Today, you can find African Violets that are white, pink, maroon, blue, lavender, violet, and deep purple. African Violets can be found in different sizes ranging from 4 to 8 to 16 inches wide to more than 16 inches wide. They have a mounded or round form. Different varieties may have different flower and leaf shapes. The flowers may be single, semi-double, double, ruffled or star shaped. Leaves may be round, heart-shaped or oval and have a fuzzy, velvety texture. African Violets should be planted in containers no more than one-third the width of the plant’s leaf span. They have fine roots and require well-drained soilless potting mix with a pH of about 6.2 – 6.5. Plant containers should have at least one hole in the bottom to allow water to drain. They should be repotted in fresh potting mix once a year. Fertilize the plant each time you water them. Use one-quarter of the recommended amount of fertilizer to keep the roots from being damaged. Fertilizers specially formulated for African Violets can be purchased. In their natural habitat, African Violets received filtered light from the forest canopy. In your house, they need 10 – 16 hours of light and 8 – 10 hours of darkness to flower. They will grow best in a bright, north-oriented exposure; although in the winter months, they may prefer a southern exposure. Fluorescent or LED grow lights can also be used. If your plant has dark, healthy leaves but no blooms, try increasing the light. Conversely, if your plant is not blooming and has pale leaves, reduce the light. As for temperature – if you are comfortable, your African Violet is comfortable. They like 40 – 60% humidity. Grouping plants together is helpful or they can be set on trays of pebbles and water. An even temperature should be maintained and they do not like drafts. Water with room-temperature distilled water or rain water. The potting mix should be moist at all times but not soggy. Overwatering is a common reason that African Violets do not survive. Water just the potting mix as water may cause leaf spots. Do not mist the foliage as it, too, may cause leaf spotting. African Violets can be watered from above but it is not recommended as the plant is susceptible to crown rot. You can also set the pot in a bowl of room-temperature water, 1 – inch deep. When the soil surface feels moist, remove the plant from the water and allow the water to drain from the pot. Do not let the pot sit in water for more than 30 minutes. You can also use a wicking system (see references below) or use self-watering pots. Common problems and solutions: Leaves are long and narrow Not enough light; temperature is too cool Leaves are pale Too much light Plant is limp and wilted Over watering; poor drainage If roots are mushy, brown and slimy, the plant is not likely to survive Leaf spots Water left on leaves Pale leaves, lack of growth Nutrient deficiency, not fertilized regularly Tight plant centers, rusty-colored leaves Over fertilization African Violets can provide many years of pleasure in your house if you follow these fairly straightforward rules for nurturing them. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Holiday Gift Plants Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a gift for that person who has everything? Do you need a gift for someone but the thought of braving the mall makes you light-headed? How about a potted plant? And no, it doesn’t have to be the lovely but ubiquitous poinsettia. Unless you are able to score one of the pink and white or yellow cultivars, or a poinsettia with “double bracts”, give the lovely but pervasive poinsettia a pass. You want a potted plant that says “I picked this out especially for you.’’ The good news: there are a number of holiday plants for you in addition to ways to customize the plant to make it look extra special. Small potted Norfolk Island pines and fragrant rosemary can be given as miniature trees to be enjoyed indoors and decorated for the holidays. For the flower-loving crowd, paper white narcissus, amaryllis bulbs, cyclamen, and Christmas cactus make colorful holiday gifts. You can make your gift plant even more special by taking it out of that plain plastic pot it usually comes in and giving it in a creative container. Picking out your plant First, make sure the plant has healthy foliage and no roots coming out of the pot. If you are buying a flowering plant, pick one that hasn't fully bloomed yet. You don’t want it to look lovely in the store; you want it to look lovely in your recipient’s home. Be sure to include care instructions. If instructions have fallen off, or were never there in the first place, you can put the name of your plant in a search engine and print out the information that pops up. Norfolk Island Pine : These are small trees that are very popular as decorative table-top holiday trees. Norfolk Island pines are not true pines; they are members of a pre-historic family of conifers called Araucariaceae, an incredibly diverse and widespread plant family during the Jurassic and Cretaceous time periods. While this tree can grow quite large in its natural habitat, Norfolk Island pine is slow growing. After about a decade, it may eventually reach 5 to 8 feet tall as a houseplant. Norfolk pines need very bright light and humidity. If the plant is not thriving, it is likely not receiving sufficient light or humidity. Norfolk Island pines don't appreciate being too wet. Instead, fill a saucer with water and rocks or gravel, then place the potted plant on top, making sure the pot is not sitting directly in water. Bingo! You’ve created a little high-humidity microclimate. When you find the spot in your house with the right light for your plant, don't forget to turn the plant every week or so to keep it growing straight and upright. [insert photo 1] Cyclamen: This cool-season plant is often used as an accent indoors. With its dark green to silvery leaves and recurved twisting flowers in shades of red, pink, or white, cyclamen makes a lovely holiday gift. It grows best in a bright location without direct sunlight. When leaves are present, the plant is actively growing. Water whenever the soil feels dry. Do not get water on the crown of the plant. High humidity, especially during winter, is crucial. Keep cyclamen on a tray of water with a layer of pebbles or something else to form a shelf for the cyclamen pot to sit on. Do not let the cyclamen itself sit in the water. Feed it with a low-nitrogen fertilizer every couple of weeks while in full leaf. Avoid drafts as well as hot, dry air (as in air conditioning and heating vents). As the flowers begin to fade, gradually allow the plant to dry out for 2-3 months. It is going dormant and excess water will allow it to rot. During the summer, dormant cyclamen can be kept indoors, in a cool, dark spot with good air circulation or outdoors, in a shady spot. You can repot with fresh soil and a slightly larger pot while the plant is dormant. Begin watering again in September. By then you’ll probably see new growth starting. Make sure you bring the pot back indoors before a frost. There are many wonderful cyclamen hybrids available and since they stay in bloom for a long time, you can choose your plant while the blossoms are open and know exactly what you are getting. Amaryllis: These subtropical bulbs are popular gift plants because they can be forced to produce stunning flowers during the holiday season. Amaryllis is grown in pots indoors throughout the country. The trumpet-shaped blooms grow up to six inches across, and several flowers often appear in succession. Flower color ranges from reds, oranges and pinks to pure white. Still others are spectacularly striped and multi-colored. You can purchase pre-potted bulbs at many garden centers or you can buy bulbs separately and plant them in a pot that you select. Once planted and watered, bulbs should bloom within six or eight weeks. When purchasing bulbs, keep in mind that the larger the bulb, the larger the flowers. Also remember that flower stalks can be top heavy, so make sure the container you select is heavy enough to counter balance the weight or add a layer of gravel to the bottom of the pot to make sure the plant does not tip over when in bloom. Plant the bulb in the center of the pot in well-drained potting media, taking care to press firmly around the bulb so that it is well seated. Encourage early flowering by keeping at least one half to two-thirds of the bulb above the soil line. Water thoroughly and place the pot in a cool, bright spot. No further watering should be necessary until the bulb sprouts. When it does sprout, move the pot to a spot with direct sunlight and keep the soil moist but not over-watered. Fertilizer is not necessary at this point. Once the bloom opens, remove the plant from sunlight to prolong the life of the flowers. Amaryllis, like many other types of lilies, contains various toxic alkaloids and can cause poisoning if consumed. Keep away from pets! If your recipient is a fan of tulips, daffodils, crocus and/or hyacinths, you can also pot up some of these spring bulbs and create a bulb garden for a beautiful holiday gift. Paper white narcissus : These bulbs are great alternatives to the ever-popular amaryllis. Paper whites are also quite easy to force. Unlike most spring-flowering bulbs, paper white narcissus bulbs don't require chilling prior to flowering. This makes these lovely flowers perfect for gardeners with less experience forcing bulbs. Native to the Mediterranean, “paper whites" produce clusters of small white, yellow, or orange flowers (despite their common name). The extremely fragrant flowers are produced on stems that are 12 to 18 inches tall. With a sweet scent that can fill a room, it should be noted that the yellow flowers are particularly fragrant. For other heavily fragrant paper whites, check out 'Erlicheer' and 'Omri,' which produce completely white flowers. 'Galilee' is white and cream, while the flowers of 'Avalanche' have white petals and yellow central cups. 'Constantinople' also has a yellow cup, but produces semi-double white petals, meaning that the flower stamens transform into yet more petals, causing a fuller appearance. When purchasing bulbs, look for ones that are blemish free and firm. This will help you avoid problems related to basal rot. Basal rot causes decay starting at the roots and spreads upwards inside the bulb. On the surface, affected plants become dwarfed and the flowers are abnormal, not what you are looking for, especially in a gift plant. If you are buying your paper whites already planted there is, of course, nothing to do, unless you want to root them (see below). However, if you decide to buy the bulbs and pot them yourself, look for a pot that is 3 to 5 inches deep and has holes in the bottom for drainage. Paper whites need a potting mix that is well draining. The bulbs should be planted with the pointed ends up. When you are planting them, plant enough bulbs in the pot to fill the space without the bulbs touching each other. Make sure the tips of your planted bulbs are exposed. Alternatively, the bulbs can be planted in gravel, pebbles, or marble chips instead of soil. If you decide to do this, fill a pot or bowl up halfway with pebbles and place the bulbs on top of the pebbles. Then add more pebbles until the bulbs are about two-thirds covered. Finally add enough water so that the bottoms of the bulbs are touched by the water, then maintain this water level. Full flowering takes about 4 to 8 weeks after planting. Once planted, place them in a sunny, cool location; when grown in an area that is too warm or has too little light, the leaves and flower stalks will grow too tall and flop over. Too much sun will cause the flowers to deteriorate. Gift them as they are just starting to bloom. Christmas cactus : Thanks to its name, colorful blooms, and low-maintenance reputation, the Christmas cactus is another holiday gift option. Like poinsettias, Christmas cactus start the flowering process when the days become shorter and the nights become cooler. In order to flower, Christmas cactus typically need at least twelve hours of darkness. Keep Christmas cactus away from artificial light during the night from October through December if you want it to bloom during the holiday season. Place in a closet at night or put a box or bag over it to trick it into thinking it is outside and the nights are getting longer. Christmas cactus ( Schlumbergera bridgesii ) grow best in bright, indirect light. Place them within six feet of a south, east or west-facing window. Fertilize every one to two months during the growing season (April to September). Use a well-drained potting medium and only water the plants when the upper inch of soil feels dry. Christmas cactus prefers to be a bit root-bound, so be sure not to choose a pot too large for your plant. Pruning the plants will encourage branching and flowering, but don't prune beyond mid-summer. You can use the trimmings to propagate new plants. Just place cuttings that have two or three jointed sections in well-drained sterile media. Keep them moist and in bright indirect light until roots form and new growth appears. Christmas cactus can be prone to bud drop, so avoid extreme environmental changes. Keep them away from drafts or heat sources (vents, fireplaces, or televisions). Avoid letting the plants get too dry between waterings. The stems and roots can rot if the soil holds too much water, so be sure to use a well-drained potting medium and water only when the potting medium begins to dry out. Rosemary: Rosemary is a pungent, evergreen herb that's great for cooking and very easy to grow. You can use it fresh in meals or dry it for later use. This herb can live out its life in a pot in the kitchen long after the holidays pass if given good light, or planted in the garden. Rosemary is often used to season meats like pork, chicken, and lamb, but it's equally delicious when used on roasted potatoes or in soups or rustic breads. It is also an attractive, drought-tolerant plant that works well in containers and landscape beds. It blooms in winter and spring with small pink, lavender, or blue flowers, depending on the cultivar. It can reach up to 6 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide when planted in the ground but will remain smaller if pruned or planted in containers. Rosemary can also be found for sale pruned as a holiday topiary , shaped as a Christmas tree. Outdoors, rosemary demands a well-drained soil and at least six hours of sun. This plant is originally from the Mediterranean, so it prefers dry conditions and suffers when watered too frequently. It is best to buy rosemary plants from a garden center, since it can be difficult to start rosemary plants from seed or cuttings. How to Make Your Holiday Gift Plant Extra Special Change out the pot. Garden centers, even big box stores, have interesting containers you can buy. Removing your gift plant from the plain plastic container or common tin foil it came in to something more interesting is a statement worth making if you have the time and money. Not only can you select your own pot or container, you can also decorate it yourself. Boring plastic pots can be transformed with spray paint in a more interesting color that compliments your plant or the room where it will be displayed, if you know. Or using a few rounds of painter’s tape in various sizes you can also create interesting stripes, patterns and/or abstract designs in single or multiple colors. Add color to a clay pot by making it a mosaic, decorating it with broken tile, broken glass, dishes or pottery. Just keep in mind that these will make the pot heavier. If you prefer the look of old terra-cotta pots, you can try these tricks: rub a new pot with wood stain to give it an antiqued look or coat a pot with plain yogurt to give it an earthy patina. You can also make your own container, personalizing it for your recipient. Anything can be used - the only thing that limits your container selection is your imagination. Taking common objects and turning them into garden features makes a great personal statement. Everyday items, such as coffee mugs, watering cans, or even boots make great plant containers. Whether buying or making, here are the basics: a good container should be large enough to provide room for soil and roots. You don't want your plant standing in wet soil, so make sure the container you choose has enough drainage holes. You also want your container to be attractive without competing with the plant it holds - the plant should be the star. The only exception to this, in my opinion, is a gift of foliage or a plant of all one color, like a Norfolk pine or rosemary. In those cases, an ornate or highly decorated pot might be the perfect choice. All gift plants bring welcome holiday color and cheer to the homes that receive them. HAPPY HOLIDAYS! References “Choosing a Container for Your Plant”, gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/choosing-a-container.html “Grow Amaryllis Indoors for Stunning Holiday blooms,” https://extension.umn.edu/news/grow-amaryllis-indoors-stunning-holiday-blooms “Growing and Caring for Amaryllis”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/amaryllis “Growing Bulbs Indoors”, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors “Lighting for Indoor Plants and Starting Seeds,” https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants and Pine” “Rosemary,” https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/rosemary.html “Say Will You Be Mine with Flowering Plants”, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/say-will-you-be-mine-flowering-plants “Tips for growing succulents in containers,” https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/tips-growing-succulents-containers Photo Credit: christmasstockphotos.com (all creative commons) (1), plantsarethestrangestpeople.blogspot.com (all creative commons) (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3), www.flickr.com (all creative commons) (4), shopping.yahoo.com (all creative commons) (5), mx.pinterest.com (all creative commons) (6)

< Back Harvest Time with Kids! Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener It’s time to get the kids in your life ready for harvesting all of the bounty around us. Whether you’ve been tending plants all summer or want to visit any number of “pick your own” locations in our area, harvesting is a great way to connect children to produce right where it grows. Kids of all ages can harvest fruit, vegetables, and herbs! Toddlers can pick a strawberry or a cherry tomato with a little guidance, preschoolers can identify beans to pick, and older kids can reach an apple from the tree or gently pull a carrot from the ground. The best part is that they can see right in front of them where the food comes from and how it is growing just before they pick it. It is important for children (especially our youngest ones) to check with an adult before eating anything they find growing to make sure it’s safe. Getting set up is easy! Young harvesters don’t need fancy gear, but some things may help them enjoy the process more: Tools that fit in their hands - think safety scissors for little hands to clip some basil or chives Gloves - not required, but some kids find that a comfortable and well-fitting pair of gloves make touching plants and dirt easier. Something to carry their bounty - a right-size basket, an empty ice cream bucket, a tote bag, or even a cart to push or wagon to pull. Outside activity items like a hat and water bottle help keep little harvesters going. Where to go? Maybe you have your own container garden, tree, or garden bed that you’ve planted, taken care of, and anticipated harvesting with your children so you don’t need to travel far for your harvest. There are also many places that offer pick your own seasonal produce. Check out https://minnesotagrown.com for a fun location - you can filter by plant and geography to plan a harvest outing that works for you and the children in your life. Does your child have access to a school garden? More and more schools are introducing the benefits of growing and harvesting produce to their students and families, including right here in Dakota County! Check out this link for information on University of Minnesota Extension school garden programs (and more great ideas for gardening with kids) here: https://extension.umn.edu/farm-school/school-gardens What to harvest? Some fruits, vegetables and herbs have been available since late spring and many are coming into a bountiful harvest right now in August, and more will continue through our first freeze in fall. Exact times vary year to year, but here’s a great chart from Minnesota Grown to give you an idea of what’s good eating when you are ready to harvest: https://minnesotagrown.com/whats-in-season/ Looking for ways to enjoy those harvests right away with your young harvest crew? How about pairing carrots, cherry tomatoes, and mini peppers with a little ranch dressing for a quick healthy snack? Apple slices with caramel or peanut butter are delicious! In the fall, carve a pumpkin and roast the seeds for another fun treat. For more ideas, try these “One Bite Lessons” from Life Lab: https://lifelab.org/2021/04/one-bite-lessons/ Food Safety Of course, part of setting up healthy habits for children includes safe handling. Here’s a link to more information about ‘Handling Fresh Fruits and Vegetables Safely,” whether you are eating them right away or preserving for later consumption from University of MN Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/preserving-and-preparing/wash-fresh-fruits-and-vegetables The most important part of harvesting with kids is to set them up for healthy habits as they grow up. Having fun with the garden harvest is a great way to explore new foods at their best. Fortunately, we have many options throughout the growing season here in Minnesota. Happy Harvesting! Looking for books to get little ones excited about the garden harvest or to read after you’ve been out picking your favorites? Here are some suggestions, all available at Dakota County Libraries: Garden time [board book] by Jill McDonald. "Teaches toddlers all about gardens--with easy-to-understand facts about how plants grow and how gardening puts food on our tables.” (Provided by publisher) It's Our Garden: From Seeds to Harvest in a School Garden by George Ancona. “Part celebration, part simple how-to, this close-up look at a vibrant garden and its enthusiastic gardeners is blooming with photos that will have readers ready to roll up their sleeves and dig in.” Garden to Table: A Kid's Guide to Planting, Growing, and Preparing Food by Katherine Hengel with Lisa Wagner. For older kids ready to try out some recipes with their harvest. Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4, 5), book covers (6, 7, 8)

< Back Snow Mold! It’s Not About Putting Snow in a Mold As the snow begins to melt, you may start to see a grayish, and sometimes pinkish, circular straw-like, matted patch in your yard, especially near the street where snow was piled up for what may have seemed like decades to some but was only a few months. The spot can also have a “webby” fungus appearance. If you have this phenomenon in your yard, then click on this link to learn about snow mold and what you can do to prevent it from happening again next Spring. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Snow Mold is a fungus that develops and thrives when early, deep snow covers the ground prior to the ground being frozen. Snow mold can continue to grow once the snow has melted in the Spring as long as the conditions remain wet and cold. There are 2 types of snow mold found in Minnesota: Gray snow mold produces sclerotia which look like dark, hard round bodies on the grass blade. Pink snow mold produces pink-colored spores and fuzzy mycelium. Areas of your lawn that are affected with snow mold will generally take longer to green up in the Spring but usually come back to normal and therefore, is not usually too serious. In a bad weather year, it can, however, kill the grass. If you want to “spring” into Action this Spring: You can choose to break up and spread the larger snow piles around in the affected areas. This will help the snow melt faster and dry out quicker. You can gently rake the area to create a faster drying process and prevent further mold growth. Preparation to avoid snow mold altogether must be done in the Fall with these easy steps: If your yard is prone to snow mold, skip a Fall nitrogen fertilizer which the fungus thrives on. Continue to mow your lawn until the grass stops growing. Cut grass to 2 inches (but not shorter) to prevent the grass from matting and allowing mold to grow. Rake up leaves If you have certain areas in your yard where snow mold is a problem, consider a snow fence to reduce large piles of snow. While snow mold can be a little unsightly in the Spring, a few actions can help alleviate the problem quickly! Source: University of Minnesota Extension: “Snow Mold Prevention Begins in Autumn”, October 20, 2023 Photo Credit: University of MN Extension (1,2)

< Back Succulents - It Is What to Grow in July Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener In May, the annuals were planted, but as the hot and dry days of July arrive are some of your annual planters looking overgrown or have they lost their curb appeal? Are your children still wanting to play in the dirt? Then look no further than the world of succulents. Succulents can easily be added to existing planters to refresh the look or they can be planted alone in a container. Explore with your child what makes succulents so unique and start planting! What is so unique about a succulent ? Succulents store water in their leaves - it allows them to survive in hot/dry conditions. Waxy coverings on the leaves help retain moisture and their root systems are not deep which allows for quicker water absorption when there is not much water available. Succulents come in all shapes, sizes and textures and their colors and markings vary as well. Lithops - look like stones or pebbles Sedums - small leaves form in clusters - usually round leaves Echeverias - often resemble a flower - leaves are thick and arranged in rosettes Cacti – yes, a cactus is a succulent - but as they say, all succulents are not cacti; spiky thick stems Cacti Planting our Succulent Planter Succulents can be added to an existing planter if the correct conditions and soil exist, but if they don’t, start by picking an empty planter where your succulents can receive a lot of indirect sunlight. Succulents come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors so let your child choose 3-5 succulent plants depending on the size of your planter. Most succulents will do well in shallow planters, but any will do. Let’s get planting! Gather the following : Succulents (1-5 based on size of container) Planter/Container - well draining and shallow is better Succulent/Cacti Soil - well draining soil Pebbles/Small River Rock for top dressing (optional) Planting Time Child can choose succulents - choose an appropriate number to fit the container Children can fill the planter with succulent/cacti soil, leaving about ½” to 1 “from rim of planter Before planting - arrange succulents in planter; once you have decided on the best arrangement, then planting can begin Succulent leaves can be fragile and can break off easily so please use caution when planting. If you have chosen to plant cacti then it will be helpful to have rubberized gloves on and possibly use a tong to place the cacti in the pot. Dig small hole for the succulent; place succulent in hole and then gently fill in around plant. Repeat the process above until all succulents are planted. Watering/Sunlight Key to watering is less is best . Succulents can thrive with little water. Invite your child to water, but emphasize that less water is needed for succulents. The best method for watering succulents is to thoroughly water the succulent until the soil is saturated (runs through) and then allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Succulents may dry out quicker when outside, but do not overwater. Sunlight is important to succulents; however, it’s best not to place the plant in direct sun, but instead bright indirect sunlight. Enjoy your new summer creation - the Succulent Planter. Don’t forget your new creation can be brought inside in the Fall when temperatures begin to cool. The succulent planter is a great addition to your “garden” - inside and out. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1,2), www.pexels.com (3,4)

< Back Buttonbush (Queen of the Wetlands) Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Buttonbush is a great shrub for naturalizing in wet areas and attracts butterflies. Read more about its attributes. We have some wonderful marsh lands on our property. Among the Giant Blue Lobelias and the Cardinal flowers, there’s a delightful shrub that stands out, the Buttonbush ( Cephalanthus occidentalis ). This is a native perennial plant to much of the Eastern North America from Nova Scotia to Minnesota, south to Florida and East Texas. You’ll find it in a range of wetland habitats including swamps, floodplains, mangroves, around ponds and margins of streams and even moist forest understories. It grows as a deciduous shrub or small tree, running from three to ten feet in height. It has glossy green leaves which appear in the late spring. Its unique fragrant white to pink bloom, shown in the first picture, gives it its common name. Buttonbush usually blooms from June through September although this period may be shorter further north. It was introduced commercially in 1735 as a source of nectar for commercial honey production. Thus, it’s other common name, Honey Bells. Buttonbush forms an important link in the wetland ecology. A number of waterfowl eat the seeds and wood ducks use the plant as nest protection. We’ve had a pair in our pond for several years that seem to regularly avail themselves of our buttonbushes building material. Deer browse the foliage which surprisingly is poisonous to livestock. Darn deer eat anything! A number of native as well as honey bees feed on the nectar as do hummingbirds. The plant acts as larval host to Titan Sphinx, Walnut and Hydrangea Sphinx moths. It can be used in butterfly gardens, as a naturalizing plant or to control erosion in difficult, moist areas. It’s great for naturalizing. To grow Buttonbush, select a fairly moist environment. As you might imagine it has a pretty high water requirement even though it likes shade to part shade. It is a spreading multi-branched shrub with an irregular crown which produces balls of white flowers resembling pincushions. As it can get a bit lanky, plants in a more formal setting might need to be pruned from time to time. It is a rapid grower and spreads by suckering. It is said to be hardy from Zones 5 to 11 although a number of plants do just fine in Zone 4. For Minnesota gardeners it might be wise to consider planting in a protected area and mulching in the fall at least for the first year or two. Getting a local specimen is also important. Buttonbush is an otherwise hardy ornamental perennial. It’s a native that is an attractive addition to any moist shady area. Photo credits: Jim Evans, Wikimedia Commons (1), C. Fannon, University of Texas (2)

< Back A Tree for All Seasons: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener For the smaller yard, a smaller tree can be just the right touch. A forty-foot oak might be a bit overpowering, but a so-called “understory tree” can be the perfect landscaping accent to make the house appear to be a welcoming homestead. One excellent candidate is the native Serviceberry. Over the next three months we’ll take a look at several native understory trees that could well fit the bill for that yard accent piece. One excellent candidate is the Serviceberry . It actually is a group of about twenty different species grouped under the genius Amelanchier . As you might expect such a heterogeneous group goes by several names in addition to serviceberry, including shadbush, shadwood or shadblow, sarvisberry (or just sarvis), juneberry, saskatoon, sugarplum, wild-plum or chuckley pear. They comprise a group of deciduous-leaved shrubs and small trees in the rose family. The complexity of genus and variety arise from Serviceberry’s propensity to hybridize. So, much variation in size and coloration exists within the genus. That’s why you should read the descriptive information carefully for whatever variety you select, to make sure its characteristics fit your needs. The origin of the name is up for grabs. One story has it that Serviceberry started blooming in early spring at the same time that the valleys in the Appalachian Mountains became passable and circuit-riding preachers could again hold church services. Another maintains that the blooming of Serviceberry announced the time that the thawing ground could again be broken so as to allow graves to be dug and those Dear Departed that had been in “cold storage” for the winter could be interred with proper services. A less colorful, and probably more reliable, proposition has it that the genus was named after the European Sorbus , a genus also of the rose family with a number of similarities. Serviceberry's outstanding fall color Amelanchier is native to most of North America, being more prolific in the Eastern states and provinces. They can grow as either a shrub or tree ranging in height from 6 to 25 feet with similar widths. Depending on the variety, they are hardy from Zones 2 through 9. Blooming in early spring, most produce beautiful five-petal blossoms ranging from pink to white to yellow. Although the blooms usually last no more than one to two weeks, the plant produces vibrant blue/green foliage which turns a brilliant bronze in the fall. After blooming, clusters of berries form on mature plants, ripening to a deep red, then purple, during the summer. The silvery bark provides a striking accent in winter. Like most native perennials, Amelanchier is a great favorite of pollinators. Serviceberry will form multiple stems However, such a desirable plant is not without its needs. Both deer and rabbits like to browse most varieties, so you should consider placing protective guards around the young trees for the first couple of years. Many insects and diseases that attack orchard trees also affect this genus, in particular trunk borers and rusts . In years when late flowers of Amelanchier overlap those of wild roses, pollinators may spread fire blight. Serviceberries do well in full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight) to part shade (2 to 6 hours). They do best in a moist, loamy, self drained soil that is a bit acidic. Some species do well in boggie areeas and can look great near ponds or streams. They look well in boarders to naturalized areas. Planting is done best in the fall or, preferably, in the spring. A thick mulch applied around the plant will help it establish itself. You’ll want to keep the mulch away from the bark itself, however. Water well and apply a bit of all –purpose fertilizer in the spring and you should be well on your way to having a dazzling year-round garden gem. Photo credits: Dan Mullen www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,3)

< Back Virginia Creeper: Groundcover and Climber Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a native vine as ground cover in a shady area? Do you want it to cover a tree, a rock wall or an unsightly outbuilding? As explained in this article, Virginia Creeper may be the plant for you. Not only is it versatile, it has many virtues including a beautiful rosy color in the fall. Few native vines are as versatile as Virginia Creeper ( Parthenocissus quinquefolia ) . Do you want a ground cover in a shady area? It’ll do it. Do you want a vine to cover an unsightly outbuilding? It’s at your service! This native workhorse goes by a number of labels, including Virginia creeper, Victoria creeper, Five-Leaved Ivy, or Five-Finger. Virginia Creeper is a species of flowering vine in the grape family, Vitaceae and native to eastern and central North America. It’s commonly found in our own Minnesota woods. It’s not to be confused with Boston ivy, a Japanese import covering the hallowed halls of the Ivy League and Wrigley Field. The latter is invasive and not nearly as decorative as our own native son. Virginia creeper is easy to grow. It is happy in full sun or deep shade in most any well drained soil. Although it seems to prefer a moist, acidic soil. Given time it can grow as long as 50 feet. As it grows by tendrils with adhesive disks at their ends, Virginia creeper can stick itself to whatever it is growing on. So, it can cover almost anything without benefit of a trellis. If you have a low-value tree in the landscape it is perfectly at home growing up its trunk or limbs. We have it growing up a flood light post to great effect. As mentioned above, it also can act as a fine ground cover on a difficult, steep slope. In addition to its versatility and durability, Parthenocissus quinquefolia is a very showy plant, creating a wonderful cloak of green during the spring and summer which turns a fiery red in the fall. Fall also brings a show of blue-black berries which are inedible for us but an important source of energy for birds beginning their migration southward. Another ecological plus is the rich nectar produced by its modest green-white flowers. It is greatly favored by both bees and hummingbirds. Virginia creeper is usually available in most nurseries. There are a couple of cultivars commonly found in the trade: “Star Showers” which has a variegated foliage and “Yellow Wall” whose foliage turns yellow in the fall rather than the red of the species. Either cultivars or species should perform well in most all of Minnesota. Photo Credits: University of Wisconsin-Madison (1,2)

< Back What’s the Buzz about Bee Lawns? Marjory Blare, Master Gardener You may have heard about bee lawns on the news or from a friend or at a county park. And, you may be wondering what that is and why you might want to plant one in your yard. Read this article about bee lawns to help you decide if planting one is right for you. Annual Red Clover Did you know that about 1/3 of the plant-based foods that humans eat are insect pollinated? But pollinators are in trouble due to habitat loss, pesticides and parasites. Butterflies, wasps, flies, soldier beetles, and moths are also in jeopardy. A pollinator lawn provides the high-quality nutrition that pollinators need to survive. A bee lawn can attract over 50 species of bee! A bee lawn integrates low-growing flowering perennials with grasses. They require fewer pesticides, less fertilizer, water and mowing than a traditional lawn. Grasses in bee lawns can include grasses already present in your lawn, but, adding fine fescues and Buffalo grass will reduce the number of mowings needed per year and make the lawn more drought tolerant. “Strong creeping red fescue,” “slender creeping red fescue,” “chewings fescue,” “hard fescue” and “sheep fescue” can be grown with other cool-season grasses in full sun to shaded areas. Red Fescue Another alternative to cool-season grasses are sedges. However, they don’t take as well to mowing. Pennsylvania sedge grows to about 6”. Pennsylvania Sedge White clover springs to mind when thinking of bees, but there are several other good candidates that will spread out the flowering season from spring through fall. “Self-Heal” (Prunella) and “creeping thyme” and “birds foot trefoil” are non-natives that should not be planted near a wild area, but can be used in urban areas. “Ground plum,” “sweet white violets” and “common blue violets” are native alternatives. Self-Heal and Creeping Thyme Bee lawns can be treated similarly to lightly-used traditional lawns. They can be mowed (or not) at 3” or higher and take light foot traffic. Some examples of good places to plant bee lawns are: boulevards, steep slopes, primarily aesthetic areas, rights of way and easements. There are at least two ways to plant bee lawns. One is to start with bare soil (be aware that this area will have a “seed bank” of weeds.) and the other is to overseed. In certain cases, plugs might be a better choice. Click here for information on planting a bee lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/planting-and-maintaining-bee-lawn And here are some additional sites to help you get started on your bee lawn: Here is a site to find bee lawn seed: https://turf.umn.edu/lawn-info/purchasing-seed/bee-lawn-seed Click here to get signage for your lawn: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2021-05/Lawns%20to%20Legumes%20yard%20signs_Final_Single_2020_edits_smalllink_new_0.pdf Click here to see the Lawn to Legumes site and apply for a grant to help with expenses: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/l2l Here is a webinar discussing the ins and outs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEiEoSC60Ss Your lawn can “Bee” the change! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,2,3), University of Minnesota Extension (4,5)