< Back Junior Fall Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The blustery days of fall yield a kaleidoscope of leaves across our Minnesota yards and parks. Have your children ever wondered why these leaves transform to new colors in the fall? Help your child become a Junior Fall Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of why leaves change colors in the fall. Calling all Junior Fall Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are for why leaves convert from the summer color of green to red, orange, yellow, or brown shades as they fall to the ground. Once the clues are known, pull on your coziest sweatshirt and head outside to observe the evidence of fall leaves’ transformation, revealed in trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your observation skills, you can solve the mystery of why leaves are now changed to a new hue. CLUES Have you ever noticed how the leaves on the trees and bushes seem to suddenly turn from green to deep reds, yellows and oranges seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? Most of the year, the special chemical inside of leaves, called chlorophyll, gives leaves their green tint. The chlorophyll helps leaves absorb energy from sunlight during a process called photosynthesis , which converts the energy into sugar to feed the trees or plants. As the seasons change from summer to fall, the air temperatures drop and the days get shorter. Look for these clues for when leaves will begin to change color: Air temperatures . The Minnesota average temperatures on September 1 are 77 degrees daytime, 59 degrees nighttime. By November 1, the temperatures have decreased to an average of 50 degrees daytime, 35 degrees nighttime. Daylight . From the start of school in early September until now in October, you probably have noticed less daylight each day as you hop on your school bus in the morning until you are playing at the park at the end of the day. Daylight on average decreases by one hour and 15 minutes from August 1 through October 15. As the trees and plants get less sunlight, the chlorophyll in the leaves breaks down. With less chlorophyll, yellow and orange color pigments replace the green color of summer. Sometimes darker red leaves appear as the sugar produced in the leaves stays in the leaves (instead of feeding the tree), because the tree has stopped its growth for the year. EVIDENCE Venture outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of fall to predict when the leaves will be changing colors: the cooler air at your soccer game requiring a need for your favorite sweater and the sun setting earlier over the horizon of the local lake. What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged the leaves to start transforming? Trees . Trees and bushes are dropping an array of leaves with bright reds, yellows, oranges and browns. Burning bush (or Euonymus alatus), along with oaks and maple trees create intense red leaves. River birch and yellow poplar trees have showy yellow displays in the fall. Creatures. The arrival of fall invites the creatures in your yard, or local park, to either migrate to the warmer south, or prepare to hunker down for the Minnesota winters by making nests or dens. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, form flocks and fly south. Look up to the autumn sky as the migrating birds fly in triangular formation to head to warmer locations. Butterflies, like the monarch, partake in a long journey to winter in warm Mexico. You may notice that the butterflies are no longer to be found in the garden. Other animals, insects and birds remain in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or under the brush of the colorful fallen leaves and nearby evergreens. Look closely, squirrels are collecting seeds and acorns to save up for their winter meals. SOLVE Want to prove that the fall leaves have been changed due to the cooler air and shorter days? Bundle in a warm jacket and take a hike around your yard and neighborhood with your family or friends. Make sure to get outside during daylight as the sun sets earlier so you can accumulate the evidence of the leaves changing colors. Collect as many leaves as possible or help rake your yard. Notice all the beautiful colors! Have a contest : 1. Who gathered the most leaves? 2. Who picked up the most red/yellow/orange/brown leaves? Celebrate the results by making a leaf pile and jumping in it together! Activity : Find your favorite leaf from your collection. With the help of an adult, cut two equally measured squares of wax paper (about 1” larger than your chosen leaf). Insert the leaf between the two wax papers. With an iron on the lowest setting and a cloth over and underneath the wax papers, briefly hold the iron on the top cloth until the wax papers melt together. What a brilliant fall keepsake you have created! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects Read: Goodbye Summer, Hello Autumn by Kenard Pak ISBN: 9781627794152 (Dakota County Library) or buy at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Goodbye-Summer-Hello-Autumn-Kenard/dp/1627794158 . A children’s book describing the clues and evidence discussed above for fall leaves. References https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/science-behind-fall-colors#:~:text=Our%20research%20showed%20that%20the,develop%20the%20pigments%20each%20fall. https://www.si.edu/stories/why-do-leaves-change-color-fall https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/historical/annual.html https://journeynorth.org/projects Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1,2,3), Book Jacket (4)

< Back May - Container Gardening Linda Stein, Master Gardener Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. This article will help you plan your container garden. Container gardening provides those with little or no yard an opportunity to grow vegetable, herbs or flowers inside your home or on your deck or patio. In addition, placing containers as part of your in-ground garden can add additional space and/or additional beauty to the garden. So, what should you think about as you consider creating a container garden? Selecting a Container A container can be anything that can hold the soil and plants. However, it is preferable that the container have a drainage hole so the plants’ root systems aren’t sitting in water. If you are using a pot without drainage holes, consider shoreline plants since they like wet soil. In selecting your container consider eye appeal, convenient and cost. Eye Appeal: Appearance is, of course, important as you select containers for your plants. If you really like a decorative planter that doesn’t have a drainage hole, consider double potting - placing a pot with drainage hole and a saucer inside the decorative plant. Impact on plants: You do want to consider how the pot you are using will impact the plants you intend to place in those containers. When purchasing a pot or planter, take into consideration the type of plant you plan on placing in the pot and the impact on the care required. Consider what the pot is made of, the size of the pot and its color. Plastic pots are generally less costly. They are also lighter in weight. This can be of particular importance if you will be planting a larger plant. Also consider that plastic pots hold moisture and therefore the plants don’t need to be watered as frequently. You may prefer clay pots. Clay pots are usually more costly and are definitely heavier than plastic pots. Be aware that, because they are porous, the soil in clay pots dry out more quickly. The color of the pot also can have an impact on your plant. Darker planters absorb heat so, if the pot will be in direct sunlight the soil will dry out faster. Also think about the type of plant - is it one that likes heat or will wither due to the warmer environment in the dark pot? Selecting Soil All soil is not the same. Potting soil should be used in most container gardening. It includes ingredients such as plant food, peat moss, ground pine bark, and either perlite or vermiculite and a wetting agent added to keep the mix from drying out. Garden soil is predominantly soil, is denser and doesn’t drain as readily as potting soil. For plants such as cacti purchase soil specifically designed for those plants. Selecting Plants Consider the amount of sun when selecting the plants to insert in your container. If the plant is said to require full sun, that means it needs at least eight hours of sun. To allow your indoor plant to receive the most sunlight place near a south facing window. Plants that require shade, should be placed in a more protected location. Also consider the size of the container for a particular plant. Check to see if the plant prefers to have a lot of space for its root system or if it prefers a tighter space. Consider putting multiple plants in the same container. If you do choose to do this, make sure all the plants require the same type of growing environment including the same amount of sun and water. As for design - you may have heard the saying that containers should contain a “thriller, spiller and filler.” And that’s because it usually works. Include a tall, showy “thriller,” one or more plants that drape over the side of the pot (“spiller”), and one or more medium sized anchor plants in the middle (“filler”) when designing your container. Watering and Fertilizing Requirements Check on the requirements of the plant that you have selected. Then, water plants on their schedule, not yours. Overwatering is more frequently a problem than under watering. Signs of overwatering include: yellow or brown limp or droopy leaves and/or the overall plant looks wilted, limited new growth, algae or mold on the soil, rotted or stunted roots. If your soil is dried out, the plant looks wilted and/or the tips of the leaves appear dried out and brown it may indicate that your plant needs more water. Remember that one of the ingredients in potting soil is fertilizer. So don’t fertilize the plant immediately. When ready to fertilize follow the instructions for the fertilizer you purchase. Don’t over fertilize and note that plants don’t grow as rigorously during winter. So, plants require little or no fertilizer during winter months. Be Creative Have fun with your container gardening. It allows you to express your creativity and will bring you tremendous beauty whether inside your house, on your balcony or in your yard. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1, 4), Linda Stein (2, 3, 5)

< Back How To Identify Butterflies Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Few things in nature enchant both children and adults more than butterflies. Whether feeding on a flower or basking in the sun, butterflies, in every imaginable color, with patterns and markings that only nature could create, delight the soul. And like all things in nature we love, we want to know more about them. But butterflies are also important pollinators. Traveling long distances and responsible for one in every three bites of food we consume, butterflies contribute over 200 billion dollars to the food economy worldwide. It seems appropriate to know more about which of these essential creatures are visiting our gardens. Read this article for important advice about how to identify the butterflies that you see. Why would you want to identify butterflies? They are worse than birds - always on the move and tiny too! First, few things in nature enchant both children and adults more than butterflies. Whether feeding on a flower or basking in the sun, butterflies, in every imaginable color, with patterns and markings that only nature could create, delight the soul. And like all things in nature we love, we want to know more about them. Second, they are important pollinators. Their immense diversity and ability to adapt to many environments - including mountain tops, rainforests and mangrove swamps - benefit plants because butterflies transfer pollen while feeding. Traveling long distances and responsible for one in every three bites of food we consume, butterflies contribute over 200 billion dollars to the food economy worldwide. It seems appropriate to know more about which of these essential creatures are visiting our gardens. For tools and tips that will help you identify butterflies, read on. Butterfly identification is hampered by the fact that butterflies often don’t stay still long enough for us to even whip out our field guides, let alone find whatever page the unknown butterfly might be on. Thank goodness for smart phone cameras. Snap a photo the second you see an unknown butterfly, before it even thinks of taking off. That way, if it does, at least you have something to help you identify it. If it doesn’t – you will learn to be faster. While the smart phone camera is one of the best tools for identifying butterflies, you will also find these tools useful: 1. A butterfly identification guide. My review of the butterfly guides at the Dakota County library and the MN Landscape Arboretum Gift shop suggests finding the right one is a tricky business. The big, fat guides listing all 170,500+ butterflies found in the world can be expensive. In addition, you are probably not interested in identifying every butterfly in the world because only about 160 of these - plus a few strays - ever visit Minnesota. For my reviews and recommendations of field guides click here . 2. Close focusing binoculars. Next to the smart phone camera, this tool has been the single greatest aid to field identification of butterflies. Consider getting them if you decide to get serious about butterfly identification and want to spend the money. For more information about them, click on this link. Ball-Reference for butterfly article .pdf Download PDF • 89KB All that said, it is OK not to be “serious” about butterfly identification. On the other hand, you may be in-between “serious” and not caring at all. About eighteen butterflies are commonly found in Minnesota. You may want to get to know all of those or maybe just a few. So, you may or may not want to spend money on close focusing binoculars. Start by trying to identify butterflies and see how it goes. Click here for images from the Minnesota Zoo of some of the most commonly seen butterflies in this area and here is information on the top commonly reported butterflies and moths in Minnesota. Here are some other useful things to know when trying to identify butterflies : Butterfly Anatomy : Look up photos of butterfly anatomy. Identification guides will refer to dorsal and ventricle wings, eyespots and other butterfly “parts”. If you do not know to what these terms refer, you won’t know what your field guide is talking about when it tells you that black swallowtails, a common butterfly seen in MN, have “tails”. Additionally, without this knowledge you will not have the vocabulary to note what you see. Where to find butterflies: · Sun preferences : Sun loving butterflies - like Monarchs and Viceroys - are usually found in bright, open spots like fields, pastures, parks, and roadsides. If you know someone with a butterfly garden, invite yourself over, or visit one of Minnesota’s pollinator gardens. (location in Minneapolis ; location in St. Paul ). Shade-loving butterflies, on the other hand, favor sheltered spots like forests and woodland edges, places with less sunlight. · Host plants : Every butterfly has a specific plant or plants where it deposits its larvae (caterpillars) - its “host plant”. The larvae feed on the host plant and subsequently turn into butterflies. Monarchs, for example, feed exclusively on the leaves of milkweed. Learn about which plants are hosts to your favorite butterflies. · Colorful flowers : They tend to attract butterflies because butterflies rely on the sugar-rich nectar. However, some butterflies, like the Question Mark, never visit flowers. Look for them around rotting fruit, animal dung, dead animal carcasses, or tree sap. · Mud puddles and stream banks : “puddle club” butterflies gather at mud puddles and stream banks to drink water and take in salts and other nutrients. · Movement corridors : As previously noted, butterflies are usually moving so other good places to find them are “movement corridors”. Movement corridors are forest trails, waterways, woodland edges, and even, believe it or not, power lines! Butterflies use these flyways for many purposes, including migrating long distances and locating mates. When to find butterflies : Butterflies are most active during the day between 10 in the morning and 5 in the afternoon. Warm, sunny days are crucial for butterfly viewing because butterflies are cold-blooded. Unable to generate the body heat they need to warm up and fly, they must rely on sunlight. Thus cool, cloudy days are bad for butterfly viewing. Ditto for windy days. Strong winds also interfere with flight as do rain and even mild showers. How to approach butterflies : If you have ever tried to sneak up on a butterfly, you know they can take off before you are even halfway there. So, approach slowly and with caution. Butterflies have excellent eyesight and startle easily (so don’t let them see you coming). Sneak up from the lowest angle possible. Butterflies are on the alert for predators, which usually attack from above, so that is where they will be looking for danger. Pay attention to your shadow. Sudden changes in light may signal a potential predator to a butterfly so it will take off. Now that you have spotted a butterfly, how can you identify its type? · Moth or butterfly : Is this flying insect actually a butterfly? Or could it be a moth? It is easy to be fooled because many moths are more colorful than some butterflies. Notice the antenna: butterflies have long antenna with a ball or club-like tip. Moths have “fuzzy” antenna. · Size : Field guides will list butterfly wingspans in inches and/or centimeters which is rarely helpful in the field. Notice instead whether the butterfly is Small, Medium, or Large. The Monarch and the Swallowtail, for example, are LARGE butterflies. Using the them as a comparison helps you determine which butterflies are medium and small-sized. · Color : Notice the butterfly’s overall color. · Patterns or markings : Does the butterfly have distinct stripes, bands or eye spots? Where are they? Upper or lower wing? Edges? Center? · Wing shape: The wing shape will help you identify the family to which your butterfly belongs, considerably shortening the number of pages you will have to turn to find your butterfly. Swallowtails, for example, belong to the family “Papilionidae .” Most of its members have ‘tails.’ · Flight pattern and behavior : Butterflies have four wings that are connected in a way that allows the wings to move independently, allowing a wide variety of flight patterns. Therefore, observing flight patterns is a good way to identify butterflies. For example, does the butterfly flutter slowly with a weak, relaxed motion or whiz past with a strong, rapid flight? Does it fly low to the ground or soar far overhead? Does the butterfly bob up and down or periodically glide following a series of quick wing beats? “ Skipper butterflies,” for example, are called skippers because their flight pattern resembles a series of “skips”. · Range : Many butterfly species are found only in certain regions of Minnesota, or even the country. Consult a field guide range map and always start with the most probable identification. Initially, noticing all these features and remembering them may be overwhelming. It helps to record your observations and take a photo. Once you have made them, you can consult your butterfly guide. Over time your skills will increase. You will soon learn to recognize many common Minnesota butterflies like: Monarchs (our state butterfly) and Viceroys (often mistaken for Monarchs and vice versa) and Mourning Cloaks , one of 8 or so butterflies that overwinter in Minnesota. Identifying butterflies can be a fun summer activity for adults and children alike. Following these tips can make the experience more rewarding. Happy butterfly watching! REFERENCES https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/index.html Carter, David, Butterflies and Moths, Smithsonian Handbooks, NYC, New York, 2023 Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Farris Bryant Building620 S. Meridian St. • Tallahassee, FL • (850) 488-4676 Minnesota Butterflies, inaturalist, https://www.inaturalist.org/guides/1647?taxon=47922 https://tpwd.texas.gov/publications/pwdpubs/media/pwd_bk_w7000_0752.pdf https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/attracting-butterflies/focus-on-natives-giant-swallowtail-butterfly/ https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/butterfly-behavior-basics/ Wing, Scarlett & 3 more, Butterflies and Moths (Smithsonian Kids First Discovery Books) Board book – Touch and Feel, April 29, 2019 http://www.minnesotaseasons.com/Main/Butterflies.html#:~:text ecoredux.com https://www.ecoredux.com › butterflies-are-important Daniels, Jaret, Butterfly Watching Basics, University of Florida, IFAS Extension, July 2008; produced with cooperation and funding from FL Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission and the FL Museum of Natural History. https://www.lccmr.mn.gov/projects/2014/finals/2014_05j1_MNZoo_ButterflyNeighbor_ENG.pdf https://www.lccmr.mn.gov/projects/2014/finals/2014_05j1_MNZoo_ButterflyNeighbor_ENG.pdf Photo 1, credit: commons.wikimedia.org (all creative commons) Photo 2, credit: publicdomainpictures.net (all creative commons) Photo 3, credit: flickr.com (all creative commons) Photo 4, credit: en.wiktionary.org (all creative commons) Photo 5, credit: Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Extension Photo 6, credit: Marylandbiodiversity.com (all creative commons)

< Back Jicama – Not Just in the South Anymore What starchy, tuberous vegetable has the refreshing crispness of a fresh apple, abundant nutrients and fiber, all with a deliciously low glycemic index? It’s the unassuming, turnip-shaped jicama (pronounced híh-ka-ma), sometimes called “Mexican potato” or “yam bean.” Read on to learn more about this interesting vegetable and a pleasant surprise for Minnesota gardeners. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener The jicama plant belongs to the genus Pachyrhizus and is a native of Central and South America. It has been a cultivated vegetable there and in southeast Asia for hundreds of years. The seeds, which range in color from pale to dark brown, have also been cultivated for their high content of rotenone, a toxin used as a pesticide, an insecticide, and a piscicide (fish killer). (Remember the 1950’s B-movie horror flick “Creature from the Black Lagoon”?) In fact, nearly all parts of the jicama plant - its bluish green vining foliage, beautiful bluish purple and white flowers, the subsequent lime green seed pods, and even the light brown peel of the tuber - are known to contain rotenone and should not be eaten. The only safely edible part is the white flesh of the tuber. From seed to harvest, the length of maturity for jicama is 4-9 months. After transplanting seedlings 12 inches apart in well-drained loamy to sandy soil warmed to at least 70 degrees, the plant can be trained up a trellis and fed a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium fertilizer monthly to keep it thriving. For the best root production, flowers should be removed at an early stage. As with nearly any root vegetable, it’s possible for the curious gardener to check on the size of the growing tubers by pulling soil away temporarily. They should be covered up though, to resume growth. Jicama tubers must be allowed to remain in the garden as long as possible, however, the plants will not tolerate frost. Record late season warmth has produced the largest and heaviest yields for commercially grown jicama. So, why feature a vegetable whose digs (pun intended) are in the subtropics? Why tempt Minnesotans with a food item they can find only in a grocery store and not in their own backyard gardens? Wonder no more - jicama seeds can now be found locally and grown locally! Pachyrhizus erosus is a cultivar that produces a smaller root but has the shortest maturity of approximately 150 days. By starting seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost and continuing with the above growing instructions, it is possible to produce jicama tubers of your very own. Photo Credits: Photo 1, www.ourfood.nl (All Creative Commons) Photo 2, Powo.science.kew.org (All Creative Commons)

< Back Avoid Overbuying Seeds Gardening season is over for this year. Or is it? Are you already dreaming and planning for next year’s garden? Soon it will be time to buy seeds. But don’t let your enthusiasm lead you to overbuying seeds. The best way to avoid overbuying is to use a systematic process for planning, purchasing, and storing seeds. Read this article for some tips to help you plan wisely. BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener Before you shop Create a garden map . Sketch out your garden space and calculate the total area in square feet. Measure the size of your beds and sketch what you want to plant in each area, accounting for spacing. Asking a neighbor, friend or family member to assist with measuring helps this step flow smoothly. How much space do you have for direct sowing? Or will you begin with indoor seedlings, shelves and grow lights? The University of Minnesota Extension has many resources for planning successfully. Vegetables . Choose plants your family will eat. Look beyond the attractive photos in catalogs and focus on vegetables you know you will consume. Start with a few favorites and limit yourself to just two or three new vegetables per season. Flowers . Choose plants to provide color and variety throughout the growing season. If you are just starting a new or replacement decorative garden, chose perhaps three or four types. For example, plants you have seen growing well near you. For me, I like flowers that remind me of family gardens of my youth. Check your existing inventory . Before ordering, sort through the seeds you already have. Organize them in labeled containers to know what you have and what you need. When storing, check the shelf life. Remember that some seeds have a shorter shelf life than others. For example, onion seeds are only viable for one to two years, while tomatoes and peppers can last for several years. Calculate your needs . Rather than buying a large packet, determine the quantity you need based on the number of plants you want. For example, if you want four plants, you will only need about five seeds, assuming a 90% germination rate. Some seed companies offer online calculators to help. It’s fun to spend the gardening off-season planning and buying seeds. But holding your enthusiasm in check will help you to avoid some buying waste. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), www.gardenorganic.org.uk (from all creative commons) (3)

< Back Pumpkins that will “Melt” Your Heart Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern An Amazing Pumpkin Creation for all ages! Are you looking for a fun way to make a unique and stunning looking pumpkin for Fall, but would prefer not to carve one? We have a simple decorative pumpkin idea that takes only a pumpkin of any size, shape or color (faux or real), a handful of broken crayons, a permanent marker, tacky glue, a hairdryer and don’t forget the optional googly eyes. Read on to learn how to make this adorable pumpkin craft for Fall that will “Melt” your heart. Supplies Needed for (1) Pumpkin Creation: Pumpkin - faux or real - any size, any shape - any color (colors really stand out on white pumpkins) 1 bottle of glue (tacky glue is best) Crayon pieces - paper peeled off Surface Coverings as crayons splatter when heated Googly Eyes (optional - size appropriate for pumpkin) Permanent Markers (optional - if choose to draw face on the pumpkin) Hairdryer (to be used under adult supervision) Let’s Get Set: Prepare work surface by covering with cardboard, tablecloth or similar covering because crayons splatter as they melt. Choose the crayon colors randomly or choose crayons to form a pattern of colors. Unwrap all crayon pieces that you plan to use. Kids usually enjoy unwrapping the crayons. On the top of the pumpkin (near stem) place several drops or light strips of glue and then place the crayons you have chosen on the glue. Crayons should be facing up and down. Let the crayons set in place before beginning the melting process. The more crayons used will result in more of the pumpkin being covered. Optional: Choose googly eyes and glue onto the pumpkin or use the permanent marker to draw a face on the pumpkin before melting the crayons. Let’s Get Melting: (adult supervision is required) Once the crayons are set in the glue, you are ready to begin the melting process. Make sure that the pumpkin is set on a sturdy and covered surface Have an adult prepare the hairdryer. Depending on the age of the child, additional adult supervision will be needed or the adult may need to run the hairdryer Turn on the hairdryer and point the hairdryer toward the crayons. The crayons will slowly melt and run down the side of the pumpkin. Caution: crayons may splatter while melting Please remember to only run your hairdryer for a short time to let it cool down and do not touch the hairdryer because it will be hot. Additional crayons can be added to provide various dimensions on the pumpkin. Make sure to let your Pumpkin creation cool. (If you set it in the sun or in a bright area place it on a plate or cloth to prevent damage to any surface.) Enjoy your creation through the Fall Season. If you used a faux pumpkin, then you can carefully pack away your creation for next Fall. Photo Credit: platein28.com/fun-with-melting-crayons-on-pumpkins ( https://platein28.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Melted-crayon-pumpkin-1-1.jpg ) (1), rawpixel.com/search/crayons?page (creative commons) (2), pexels.com/photo/orange-pumpkin-on-hay-field (creative commons) (3), the idearoom.net/halloween-crafts-for-kids (4)

< Back Mendota Heights Pollinator Partnership Sarah Heidtke, Sue Light and Cindy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardeners Master Gardeners are working with city government and residents to promote pollinator friendly gardens. Dakota County hosts a unique native garden in the boulevard alongside Victoria Road, between Marie Avenue and Douglas Road in Mendota Heights. Not only is it a beautiful sight to drive, bike or stroll alongside throughout the year, but the garden hosts a number of native pollinators - read on to find out how Mendota Heights staff and Master Gardeners got together with community members in order to create this special place and more! In 2016, the city of Mendota Heights took the admirable step of declaring itself a “pollinator friendly city.” That means that the city is encouraging residents to become more pollinator-friendly by avoiding the use of insecticides and adopting more environmentally friendly landscaping practices; avoiding planting plants that are treated with systemic insecticides; and planting more pollinator-supporting plants. Since then, Dakota County Master Gardeners Sue Light and Cindy Johnson have been working with city staff to identify ways to enhance pollinator habitats. One of their first and most successful projects was the reformation of the Victoria Road boulevard (Victoria Road between Marie Ave. and Douglas Rd. At the time, this area was a ditch filled with rip rap and, unfortunately, a lot of trash. By June of the same year, Sue, Cindy and a team of Dakota County Master Gardeners, seeded grasses and forbs on the Victoria Road boulevard. To be exact, they used Minnesota State Mix 35-621 Dry Prairie SE mix. This selection was based on the soil, water and light conditions. In order to maintain driver visibility, only species under two feet in height were seeded within thirty feet of the corners at each end. Within 2 years, the garden looked like this: Within that time, water retention improved - instead of gushing down the slope over rip rap and into the storm drains, much of the rain water is now slowed and absorbed by the native plants and their deep roots. In fact, rainwater and snowmelt are the only sources of water these plants receive. Every week brings something new to the City Partnership native planting along Victoria Road. Depending on the time of year, the Minnesota native plants you may see include - gorgeous swaths of Little Blue Stem, Wild Petunia, White and Purple Prairie Clover, Monarda, different Milkweeds, Rudbeckia, Goldenrod, Ironweed, Prairie Dropseed and Blue Vervain, to name a few. That “ditch” on Victoria Road has become a native plant treasure. 2024 marks the ninth year of the City Partnership Project. If you pass through in July, you will find Monarda (native Bee Balm) with full lavender colored blooms topping shoulder-high stems, complemented by Asclepias Tuberose (bright orange Butterfly Milkweed). Many insects, including the Rusty Patch Bumblebee and several Black and Gold Bumblebees, are attracted to the pollinator plants in the garden. Even though all of the intentional plants are native to Minnesota, regular management of this garden is done and required. During the growing season, three or four Master Gardeners at a time will weed the roadside twice a month. Weed pressure comes from invasive plants such as Siberian Elm, Crown Vetch, Thistle, Japanese Hedge Parsley and others. Some curious neighbors have come out to help weed and learn more about the plants. Walkers on the path frequently comment on the beauty of the plants as they walk by. Garden management also includes cutting back the vegetation in the spring so the new growth isn’t smothered by the matted plant material from the season before. The City of Mendota Heights and Dakota County Master Gardeners have also partnered to install and maintain the native plantings at City Hall. In addition, they have worked with Mendota Heights residents to install rain gardens. Master Gardeners have also hosted education nights for the public on the value and use of pollinator plants. All of these efforts are intended to improve water quality and welcome pollinators to Mendota Heights. Take the time to visit the extraordinary native garden on Victoria Road and at City Hall. And, keep an eye out for announcements from Dakota County Master Gardeners for public education nights to learn more about this partnership and the plantings. Photo credits: Sue Light (1,2,3,5,7,8), Sarah Heidtke (4,6), Robert Hatlivig (9)

< Back Garden Mulch and Jumping Worms There are many things to consider when choosing which type of mulch to use. Aesthetics is one consideration but mulch that will help and not hurt your garden soil is another. This article will help you select the mulch that's right for your garden. Garden Mulch and Jumping Worms There are several options for mulch or soil covering in our gardens. Choices can be either organic, which are compostable materials that improve soil fertility, or inorganic film coverings that can be black, red, green or silver colored. Inorganic film mulches are often sold in rolls. Mulch can improve our plants and gardens in the following ways: · Moisture retention/water conservation · Soil temperature control and stabilization · Weed suppression – weed growth is eliminated when light is not available · Soil borne disease prevention · Improved soil fertility through decomposition of organic mulches left on the top of the soil · Minimize soil erosion and compaction from heavy rains and help with water absorption · Improved landscape appearance with clean and neat mulch between plants In the spring, gardeners have to decide what type(s) of mulches to use. The best mulch application time is after the plants are established, four to six inches tall, and the soil has warmed up enough for active root growth. Mulch applied too soon will delay root development. Be sure not to touch the plants with the mulch. Many plants such as tomatoes are planted only after the soil is sufficiently warm. For tomatoes and other warm season transplanted plants, it is best to apply the mulch immediately to avoid soil splash-up/soil borne diseases. If you are using an inorganic film, you can add a couple of layers of newspapers under the film to help with weed suppression. The newspaper is a safe, compostable layer. Depth for most organic mulches is two to three inches to provide the positive results described above without becoming too heavy. Mulch applied too deep can cause a lack of oxygen to roots, can yellow foliage, and could provide a space for small burrowing animals to feed on plant stems. In fact, be sure that the mulch is close but not touching the stems! Favorite organic mulches include straw with newspaper under it to prevent light to seeds, compost with newspaper under it, brown decomposing paper rolls, dried grass clippings, and mulched leaves. Other possible organic mulches include cocoa bean hulls, pine needles, and crushed corn cobs. Gardeners who choose to use straw should be sure to buy tight bales that do not have too many seeds. Some gardeners have also successfully used burlap bags, and they can be reused year after year. Mulched leaves may need to be reconsidered this year and in the near future due to jumping worm concerns. Jumping worms are a type of angleworm, but they change the soil texture to make it look like coffee grounds. As they move and eat, they strip the soil of nutrients and kill plants. They are recognizable, in part, by their whipping action. They live in leaf litter on the top floor of forests and hatch in the soil in late spring. All gardeners in Dakota County need be aware of them and on the lookout for them. For more detailed information about them, please read the University of Minnesota article titled “Jumping Worms” . Another excellent article is “Coping with Jumping Worms” by Karen Randall. The damage jumping worms can do should cause gardeners to reconsider the types of mulches that they add to their gardens. At this time, there are no known ways to easily rid the soil of jumping worms once they are present. Inorganic mulches may be considered as alternatives to organic mulches. They do not break down and add nutrient value to the soils, but they help with several of the mulch attributes described above. Black, red, green and silver plastics provide weed control, splash-up protection, and some temperature control. Red plastic used with tomatoes is said to improve crop harvest by 20% because it reflects growth-enhancing light waves from the sun. It can be used with newspaper under it to control weeds and help conserve water. The down side of inorganic mulches, in addition to initial cost, is that they add to environmental plastics and may or may not be reused in a future year. Inorganic mulches can be found either in garden centers or in seed catalogs. Mulch can be a great addition to your flower or vegetable garden. However, take care in choosing a type that will benefit your garden. Photo credits: Janice Gestner (1, 3, 4), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Wild Yam (Dioscorea villosa): A Decorative Foliage Vine Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Wild yam is the subject of June’s native vine profile. Not to be confused with the edible yams that we buy in the grocery store, wild yam is sometimes marketed as “natural estrogen.” The article explains why wild yam cannot be used in this way and why you might want to add it to your garden for other reasons. Like so many other native plants, wild yam is known by many other names. Some of the more common ones include American yam, Atlantic yam, Barbasco, China root, Colic root and Devil’s bones. Not to be confused with edible yams, wild yam is sometimes marketed today is as a “natural estrogen.” It is purported to be useful as an alternative to estrogen or dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) in treatment of menopausal symptoms. Unfortunately, the human body lacks the enzymes to convert the plant compounds found in yam to either estrogen or DHEA. Although anecdotal testimonials abound, it is important to understand that the biochemistry does not support use of wild yam as a “natural estrogen.” wild yam leaves; Credit: Illinois Wildflowers So why should we consider wild yam as an addition to our native perennials? It is an elegant vine that can be depended upon to weave through fence, trellis or arbor. Likewise, it will ramble through established plantings providing a lush understory for larger beds. Although, as its name implies, it is a close relative to cultivated yams, it is not edible. Yet wild yam’s ornamental value is considerable. Indeed, its heart shaped foliage is attractive throughout the growing season with prominent veining. This makes it a great foliage plant. These leaves turn a golden yellow in the fall, providing a striking accent. Spring and early summer bring flowers in creamy yellow clusters. Winged seed pods follow, green in summer, brown in fall, hanging on in winter as accents. Wild Yam flowers; Credit: Steven Baskauf, Native Plant Trust To grow this delightful native perennial vine, keep in mind that it is dioecious, meaning that it requires both male and female plants for proper flowering and seed production. It is found across the Lower Midwest and into the Upper Midwest as far west as Central Minnesota and southeastern Nebraska. In its native state, it usually is found in moist woods and floodplains as well as in hedgerows. It tolerates full sun but will do well in light to partial shade. One attractive feature of wild yam is its drought tolerance, although it prefers moist, well-drained soils for optimum growth. If you want to try your hand at propagating the vine, you can germinate from seeds or start from division of tubers. Which ever route you try, you’ll be rewarded with an enduring ornamental addition to your landscape.

< Back Autumn Abundance: Fall Porch Pots Julie Deane, Dakota County Master Gardener As your summer plants dwindle and spindle, fall is the perfect time to refresh your front porch with a fun fall planter. The best part? You can create a beautiful autumn display by salvaging some of your existing plants and adding a few fall-friendly plants. In this article, learn how to use your existing plants and new fall plants to add some cheer and beauty to your garden. Gather Your Supplies Start with what you have and add a few fall finds: Summer survivors: Assess summer containers for vines and grasses and any blooming plants that fit your fall color scheme and can be reused. Often lantana and black-eyed Susan will continue blooming into fall and can be repurposed in your fall planters. Containers: Empty tired summer planters and repot with a fall theme. Or repurpose buckets, tin pails, old bushel baskets, wooden crates, or any type of basket. Lined with plastic or drill holes for drainage, these make charming, rustic planters. Farmstand finds: Support local farmers and add some corn shocks, gourds and pumpkins. Skewer small pumpkins and gourds on sticks or dowels for added texture. Craft materials: Twine, ribbons, or burlap scraps can dress up your containers and tie everything together. Pick Fall-Friendly Plants Choose plants that love cooler weather and bring out beautiful autumn hues, such as: Chrysanthemums (Mums): Vibrant flowers that bloom in yellow, orange, red, or purple. Ornamental Kale, Peppers and Cabbage: Add texture and deep green, purple, or white accents. Pansies and Violas: Hardy, cheerful flowers that thrive in fall’s mild temps. Asters: These daisy-like flowers come in lovely shades of blue, purple, and pink. Grasses: Varieties like fountain grass or millet provide height and movement, and some are deep purple in color. Trailing vines: Ivy or Creeping Jenny cascade beautifully over planter edges.If you have leftover herbs (like sage or thyme) from summer, tuck them in for texture and fragrance. Assembly Steps Prepare Your Base: Ensure your selected container has drainage holes or line it appropriately. Fill with potting mix. Gather your Treasures: Carefully extract any summer plants that will be reused, protecting the root base as you transplant to the fall container. Gather any other items to add to the planter as well. Arrange Your Plants: Place taller plants, like grasses or kale, in the back or center. Fill around with mums, asters, and pansies for color. Let vines or trailing plants spill over the edges. Tuck in decorative items—mini pumpkins, pinecones, sticks, or even faux leaves. Add Finishing Touches: Secure burlap or ribbon around the rim. Nestle in some twigs, berry branches, hydrangea blossoms, or a small decorative sign for added charm. Tips for Success Cluster multiple planters: Vary heights and shapes for an eye-catching display. Check your summer pots to see if you can re-use some yellow, orange or purple bloomers or some of your vines. Use straw bales to vary the height and add dimension to your space. Water regularly: Fall can be dry, so check soil moisture often. Remember to water at the soil and not on the foliage or blooms for best results. Use what’s plentiful: Gather colorful leaves, branches, or seed pods locally for a natural look. Tuck in hydrangea blooms for a fuller look. Enjoy Your Fall Planters With a little creativity and items already on hand, you can build a front porch planter that celebrates the season in style. Add some straw bales or corn shocks for even more fall flare. Each time you walk up to your front door, you’ll be greeted by a burst of fall colors and textures—proof that a little resourcefulness (and a lot of autumn spirit) can go a long way. Photo Credit: https://momcrieff.com/fall-planter/ (1), www.merrifieldgardencenter.com (2), www.pinterest.co.uk (3), www.gardengatemagazine.com (4)

< Back Growing Sweet Potatoes in Minnesota Growing potatoes in Minnesota is easy, and you can grow many varieties, sizes, and colors. Sweet potatoes are a whole other story. They aren’t even in the same family as potatoes, who belong to the nightshade family. Sweet potatoes typically need a long, hot growing season – which can be a challenge in Minnesota. Read this article to learn the secrets to growing sweet potatoes in your back yard. Michelle Scullard, Master Gardener Growing potatoes in Minnesota is easy, and you can grow many varieties, sizes, and colors. Sweet potatoes are a whole other story. They aren’t even in the same family as potatoes, who belong to the nightshade family ( Solanaceae ), similar to peppers and tomatoes. Sweet potatoes belong to the ( Convolvulaceae ) family, as do morning glory flowers. Kind of makes sense when we recall the luscious sweet potato vines we often use in containers (purple and lime colored) and how much they do look like morning glory vines. Unlike regular potatoes, sweet potatoes need a long and hot growing season. Sounds like a typical Minnesota summer, right? In many of our dreams, maybe. In Dakota County, we land firmly in USDA Growing Zone 4b , which means we have a little bit longer growing season than our fellow Minnesotans in northern Minnesota, but not as long as a sweet potato really needs. What this all means is that we have to put more work into successfully growing that yummy sweet potato. It starts with choosing the right variety of sweet potato. The two most successfully grown varieties in Minnesota are “Beauregard” and “Georgia Jet”. Beauregard is considered to have great flavor while Georgia Jet is more consistently successful here. Both produce a harvest in about 90 days instead of the usual 100-170 days most other varieties require. You plant them after the danger of frost, which is around mid-May here, according to the MN DNR’s Last Spring Frost map (but keep an eye on those nightly temperatures). Start the sweet potatoes from slips, not seeds. Sweet potatoes prefer a soil pH between 5.5 – 6.5. To provide as warm a planting site as possible, choose a location that receives at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day. It is recommended that you mound the soil or create ridges that are 8-12 inches high, or plant in a raised bed. Place black plastic over the soil to help heat the soil and maintain the warmth throughout the growing season. It is suggested that you plant in the late afternoon when the soil has warmed. Plant the slips 10-18 inches apart in rows that are three feet apart, about 4 inches deep, making sure the roots are covered completely with soil. You want to leave space for the vines to spread. There are differing opinions about whether to use fertilizer or not. Some people feel it detracts from the flavor, however, others think fertilizer is needed to produce a larger harvest. If you do choose to fertilize, it is recommended to use a balanced fertilizer, avoiding excessive Nitrogen. Place the fertilizer to the side of the plant (called side dressing) about six weeks after planting. Water regularly, providing the plants with about ¾ of an inch a week initially, and watering more often as the plants mature. You will want to stop watering two weeks before you harvest. Carefully dig the sweet potatoes before the first frost (usually mid-October). Try to avoid bruising or cutting them by using a potato fork or even moving the soil away with your hands. Once you harvest the sweet potatoes, you are going to have to wait between one to three weeks before eating because they need to ‘cure’. The curing process turns the starches in the sweet potato to sugars, producing the characteristic sweetness of the potato. If properly cured, you can store sweet potatoes in a dry 55° F area for several months. Then, eat and enjoy! References used in this article https://northerngardener.org/sweet-potato/ Minnesota State Horticultural Society https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/growing-sweet-potatoes-zm0z11zsto/ Mother Earth News https://www.seedsavers.org/site/pdf/SweetPotatoGrowingGuide1.pdf Seed Savers https://www.burpee.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sweet%20potatoes Burpee (not an endorsement of any seed catalog as many garden catalogs carry sweet potato slips) Photo credits: USDA. https://snaped.fns.usda.gov/seasonal-produce-guide/sweet-potatoes-yams (1), www/.scientificgardener.blogspot.com (2), University of Georgia Extension. https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1014 (3)

< Back All About Those Bee Houses Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Bee house? Pollinator palace? Bug hotel? Check out some ideas for building pollinator real estate with the child in your life and find out why we may want to invite pollinators into our yards and gardens! A quick search of the internet finds all kinds of simple or fancy kits for making bee houses. These are for solitary bees that travel alone and lay their eggs, not the bees like honeybees that live in a group hive. Here’s one child-friendly idea to try at home: Select the shelter. I found that a round tissue holder was just the right size for my 8 in tunnels, but see what you have around your house and yard. The container should be open on one side, closed on the back and have a way for rain to run off. You can decorate the house with paints or markers if you like, or leave it just as it is. Bees like all kinds of decor! Make or find your tunnels. Here, I used a combination of empty toilet paper rolls to hold everything in place, some of last year’s dried plant stems (hosta and hydrangea - they have little tunnels just right for a solitary bee to burrow inside), and some paper that I rolled around a pencil and secured with a bit of tape. Different sized tubes are nice for different bees. Secure your bee house in a location with morning sun, evening shade, and some shelter from the wind. I found a great spot where the tree branch meets the trunk of the tree and used some twine to secure the bee house. Observe your bee house from a little distance and see who moves into your new pollinator apartments. See up close how a mason bee builds and uses its nest in the diagram from the University of Minnesota - Extension below: Why would we want to invite bees to our outdoor spaces? Well, besides being pretty interesting creatures to observe, bees are part of a special group called pollinators. This group includes bees, plus butterflies, moths, wasps, flies, beetles and birds. Pollinators are important because they help plants grow fruit and seeds! When a pollinator stops by a flower on a plant to drink up some nectar (the pollinator version of a yummy and nutritious smoothie before they continue on their way), they pick up some pollen dust on their bodies. The next time they land on a flower, they drop off some of this pollen and fertilize that plant. Then comes the fruit with seeds inside. So, think about apples, strawberries, pumpkins and a whole lot of other foods and flowers. If you like any of those, the pollinators are definitely helping you! So where does the new house come in? Well, after all that hard work, pollinators need a safe and sheltered place to rest and raise their young. They don’t need fancy accommodations, but pollinators do appreciate: a place to cool down and shelter from the wind, rain and hot afternoon sun a place to lay eggs and overwinter an accessible water source a nice buffet of pollinator-friendly plants like coneflower, milkweed and bee balm nearby You may know about “social” pollinators like honeybees that live in a hive with many other bees, but did you know we can also provide a habitat for helpful “solitary” pollinators such as mason bees. About 15% of bees nest on their own and lay eggs in cavities (tunnels) like the hollow tubes of dead plants or in spaces they find in brush piles. Consider installing a bee house any time during the year and you could be helping native solitary bees find their favorite apartment! Are you interested in reading to learn more about pollinator habitats? Take a look at these books, available through Dakota County Library: Nature’s Best Hope (Young Readers Edition) by Douglas W. Tallamy “This middle grade edition of the groundbreaking bestseller will inspire kids to use their backyard to help save the plant. Tallamy encourages kids to take direct action. Some of these ideas include planting an oak tree (one of the most important tree species) at home. If that’s too large of a task, he suggests they can plant asters - a beautiful flower whose pollen bees use to feed their young.” Turn This Book Into a Beehive! And 19 Other Experiments and Activities That Explore the Amazing World of Bees by Lynn Brunelle “[This book] lets kids make a difference in the world - building a home where bees can thrive is one small but critical step in reversing the alarming trend of dwindling bee populations” - provided by publisher Interested in even more information about this topic? https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants-insects/pollinators https://beelab.umn.edu/creat-nesting-habitat Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4)