< Back Taking Care of and Protecting Trees Before Winter Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Trees add value in several ways: they have a cooling effect by shading homes during the warmer months, add property value, absorb carbon dioxide, and generally help lower stress levels of those around them. Here in Minnesota, our trees need some extra care going into winter. Read on for ways to help get them ready! Our trees in Dakota County are subjected to a wide range of elements - wide temperature and humidity swings, sun exposure, strong winds and of course lots of hungry wildlife. Many trees, especially native trees , have evolved to survive all of the seasons in Minnesota. That said, we can take steps to prepare them for the winter season now. Newly planted trees in particular will benefit with some extra care to help them out this time of year. Protect the roots Cover the root zone of newly planted trees (within last 2-3 years) with 3-4 inches of shredded wood mulch to insulate the soil (snow cover on top will help insulate more). Keep mulch about 6 inches away from trunk - think “donut” not “volcano” of mulch - (this prevents unintended roots from forming and ultimately girdling the tree). If the fall has been dry, as we’ve experienced recently in Minnesota, continue to water about once a week until the ground freezes. Read more about watering newly planted trees here . Look for cracks in the soil around new trees and fill any you find with soil. This will help to keep cold air out over the winter. Protect against damage from the sun and wind For both deciduous and evergreen trees, the energy from the sun (even in the cold of winter) can warm trees up enough to stimulate activity. The tree then loses moisture above ground without being able to draw up new water through frozen soil by the roots so the tissues dry out and can be damaged. Any new growth is at risk of dying back when the tree cools off again. Trees planted without shelter from winter winds are even more susceptible to moisture loss. For deciduous trees, protect the bark from winter sun and wind. A light-colored commercial tree wrap or plastic guard (not brown paper or black plastic) will reflect the sun and help to keep the bark at a more consistent temperature. Wrap newly planted trees for first two winters (and up to five winters if the species has thin bark such as a maple tree). Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost so the tree can get back to healthy growing. As the tree matures, the bark thickens and protects it better from sun scald. This tree at Mendakota Park has white wrap around the trunk, a bag to water the tree’s roots slowly, and a stake with a loose twine attached to a guard around the trunk to prevent too much rocking in the wind without rubbing on the bark. All of this is a great set up for success! For evergreen trees, it is a very good idea to protect the tree from drying winds and winter sun. Cover with trimmed evergreen boughs after the holiday season or wrap with burlap or a similar material. Remember to leave the top open enough for air circulation and some indirect light penetration. Providing winter protection for newly planted Arbor Vitae Try to minimize tree damage from wildlife Hungry mice, rabbits, voles and deer can cause a lot of damage to trees and shrubs in your landscape over the winter! Begin by reducing habitat in the fall - cut grasses and other vegetation short in late fall within two feet of young trees, and remove piles of brush in order to take away protective cover for rodents. Don’t let them get comfortable in your yard when it’s cold outside. Then, you can put up a physical barrier by creating a cylinder of 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth around the tree trunk. Keep the cylinder at least 6 inches away from the trunk (more if you want to enclose low hanging branches) to avoid causing damage. Extend 2-3 inches under the soil if you are trying to keep mice away, 18 to 24 inches above the expected snow line in order to deter rabbits. If deer are hungry enough, it’s hard to keep them away. As a protected species, the best strategies are removing comfortable areas to bed down and physical barriers. Just like in the growing seasons, a high (8-12 ft) fence is generally needed to keep them away completely. Repellents available at farm and garden stores can provide some help for deterring both deer and rabbits. What about pruning and fertilizing trees in the fall? With some exceptions, it is best to prune most trees at the end of winter while they are still dormant (with some exceptions for flowering and fruiting trees). However, obviously broken or diseased limbs can be removed in the fall - especially once leaves have dropped and you can see the damage. Read more about pruning here . Lastly, be mindful of fertilizing trees, especially newly planted ones. A burst of vigorous growth right before a freeze can be easily damaged, so it’s generally best to wait to apply until spring (sandy soils) or late in fall, once the tree is dormant (heavy soils). It is a fine sight to see new buds sprouting on trees in the spring. Help your trees along through the winter, especially those that are newly planted by: - Insulating their roots from cold and fluctuating temperatures with a good layer of mulch - Protecting bare deciduous trees and the foliage of evergreens from sun and wind damage - Making sure they get enough water through rain and supplemental irrigation up until the ground freezes. - Do what you can to help them defend against hungry critters For more in depth information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension website here: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (all)

< Back Our State Flower: The Showy Lady’s Slipper Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Have you ever wondered about how state symbols came to be? Though united as one great nation, each of our 50 states is proud to highlight its unique representations, as varied as the individuals who inhabit their lands. Over the next several months, in this section you can learn more about some of our own Minnesota state symbols. The state flower is a fitting place to launch our exploration of our state symbols as it paved the way for the rest of the symbols chosen to proudly represent each state. And so we begin with our Minnesota state flower, the showy lady’s slipper. The showy lady’s slipper is also known by its Latin name, Cypripedium reginae, and more common name, pink and white lady’s slipper or simply moccasin flower. To the Ojibwe, it is known as Agobizowin . Its designation as Minnesota’s state flower was passed into law in 1967, but the journey began long ago in 1893, inspired by the World’s Fair in Chicago. The 1893 World’s Fair brought people from each state and at least 40 countries to Chicago to celebrate ideas, inventions, and achievements. The Congress of Representative Women was a weeklong convention at the fair that brought hundreds of women together from across the United States and the world to voice concerns of the day in front of crowds numbering in the thousands. To prepare for the event, one idea proposed was the “National Garland of Flowers,” whereby each U.S. state and territory would choose a flower that represented the state’s history, culture, and environment at the fair. The plants chosen for the fair were not yet considered official state flowers, but the event did inspire states to consider the idea of an official state flower. After consulting with a state botanist, women from across the state inclusive of every congressional district voted for a state flower from the following list: Lady’s Slipper Silky Aster Indian Pink Coneflower Wild Rose The lady’s slipper won by a huge margin and a petition was written to the state legislature to make it the state flower. While the picture of the correct plant made its way onto the Minnesota state flag in 1893, the incorrect Latin name was used in the official petition to the legislature, and the Senate designated Cypripedium calceolous, a flower that doesn’t exist in Minnesota, as our state symbol. Thankfully, the women of the St. Anthony Study Circle caught the error, and in 1902 a new resolution was written. The error didn’t go unnoticed, however. Newspapers of the day were quick to run headlines proclaiming our state flower a fake. But all’s well that ends well. The corrected resolution was passed by the Senate and House naming Cypripedium reginae , or showy lady’s slipper, as our state flower. Finally, in 1967 an actual law was passed that sealed the correct plant its place in our state’s history as our official state flower. The showy lady’s slipper is the tallest of over 40 orchid species native to Minnesota. The Latin species name reginae means “queen” and spotting this magnificent plant in the wild makes it clear how this moccasin flower got its name. It grows one to two feet tall and produces usually one or two flowers on its tall, sturdy stem. Out of a single rhizome, up to 20 stems may emerge. The flower consists of white petals and sepals and a magenta streaked inflated pouch, or slipper. Blooms last up to two weeks and typically occur in June to early July. Four to twelve large elliptical leaves that are five to ten inches long with parallel veins wrap around the stem. The leaves and stem are covered in bristle-like hair that may cause a rash if touched. This showy plant commonly lives 50 years, though some plants have been known to survive 100 years! It is a good thing it is so long-lived as it may take up to 16 years for its first flower to bloom. Each year a plant may produce as many as 500,000 seeds that are as fine as flour dust. They do not transplant well. It is better to just enjoy them by taking a photo if you find one. In fact, since 1925, the showy lady’s slipper has been protected by law making it illegal to pick or dig up the plants. For specific rules regarding written permission and permits from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and the Minnesota Department of Transportation, you can read Information on transplanting Lady's-slipper Orchids . Here are a few ways to enjoy the showy lady’s slipper in person: Go to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum . Call the Bloom Line ( 612-625-9791) in advance to hear if they are in bloom along the Arb’s Bog Walk. Walk along Lady’s Slipper Lane at the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden and Bird Sanctuary in Minneapolis. Take a drive along Lady Slipper Scenic Byway in northern Minnesota through the Chippewa National Forest to see them blooming along the roadside. To learn more about our beautiful state flower, see the following links for additional information: https://www.leg.mn.gov/leg/symbols https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/flower2.pdf https://statesymbolsusa.org/ https://learninglab.si.edu/collections/a-national-garland-how-women-led-the-movement-to-declare-state-flowers/mAFroO4vbPlJakiE https://arbconservation.umn.edu/minnesotas-native-orchids#:~:text=There%20are%20roughly%20200%20species,one%20quarter%20of%20all%20species . https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/plant-of-the-week/cypripedium_reginae.shtml https://arb.umn.edu/about/contact-us https://www.minneapolisparks.org/parks-destinations/parks-lakes/gardens__bird_sanctuaries/eloise_butler_wildflower_garden_and_bird_sanctuary/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/snapshots/plants/showyladysslipper.html https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/showy-ladys-slipper https://seasonwatch.umn.edu/showy-ladys-slipper Photo Credit: Office of the Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and US Forest Service (2,3), Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (5)

< Back All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition “All New Square Foot Gardening” is an updated version of square foot gardening principles first introduced 40 years ago. The basic philosophy of this gardening method remains the same but this book demonstrates how the method has been refined and improved. Growing vegetables in your backyard is both possible and fun! Mel Bartholomew Reviewed by Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener This is an updated version of the tried-and-true Square Foot Gardening principles first introduced in 1981 by Mel Bartholomew. Bartholomew believed that everyone should be able to enjoy freshly harvested produce, that gardening should be fun, easy to understand and successful. The method saves land and water and is efficient. The Square Foot Gardening Foundation, started by Bartholomew, hopes this update will encourage new gardeners. SFG’s philosophy of reducing garbage by composting, less fuel to transport food, eating fresh and more salads, less water usage, no fertilizers, and no plastic waste, will appeal to a new group of gardeners. This publication includes multiple pictures of square and other shaped gardens followed by tips for attractive vertical gardening for beans, peas, squash, and more. The book emphasizes planting what you want to eat with a specific number of plants. Limited planting causes less waste and results in vegetables and salad greens for you to eat. The update doesn’t offer major changes to Square Foot Gardening philosophy but the system has been even further refined and improved to fully meet today's changing resources, needs, and challenges. This book should encourage home gardeners to understand that growing vegetables in their backyard is both possible and fun! Photo Credit: All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition (1)

< Back Eating Winter Melon Looking for a comfort food that can come straight from your garden? Try this recipe using winter melon. Winter melon, also known as ash gourd, is a fruit native to parts of Southern Asia. The fruit grows on a vine and matures into a round or oblong melon that is approximately the same size and color as a watermelon. When it is ripe, it’s exterior turns a greenish-powdery ash-color. It tastes a bit like cucumber and is delicious in the soup described in this article. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Winter melon, also known as ash gourd, is a fruit native to parts of Southern Asia. Winter melon grows on a vine and matures into a round or oblong melon that is approximately the same size and color as a watermelon. When it is ripe, it’s exterior turns a greenish-powdery ash-color. The fruit tastes somewhat like cucumber. It is said to have various health benefits and has been used in Asian medicine and cuisine for centuries. This recipe comes from an Asian-American vlogger named Yi who touts it as being a childhood comfort food for when you have a cold - a sort of “remedy for what ails ya”! Traditional Winter Melon Soup Ingredients: 1 lb winter melon, cut into 1” square pieces 1 lb ground pork Pork seasoning : 1 egg 1.5 tbsp cornstarch 1/4 tsp salt 1 large piece ginger, peeled and sliced 1 smaller piece peeled ginger for grinding or mincing Soup seasoning : 1 tsp olive oil 1 large piece ginger 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorn (optional) 1 tbsp Goji berries 2 tsp salt 1 tsp sesame oil Chopped green onion for garnish Directions: Crack egg into ground pork in medium sized bowl. Season pork with salt and one-half teaspoon cornstarch, mixing in ground or minced ginger until pork sticks together well. Pour olive oil into large saucepan on low heat, add sliced ginger and optional Sichuan peppercorns and heat until mixture becomes fragrant. Add enough boiling water to reach halfway up the sides of the saucepan. Form small meatballs from pork mixture and place into saucepan over increased heat, cooking until soup comes to a boil and meatballs are cooked well. Remove excess grease off top of soup. Carefully add chunks of winter melon to soup, cover saucepan, and let boil for 15 minutes. Stir in Goji berries, salt, and sesame oil. Serve garnished with chopped green onion. Taken from Yi’s Szechuan Kitchen: https://sichuankitchenrecipes.com/2023/11/19/authentic-chinese-winter-melon-soup-recipe/ Reference: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/ash-gourd Photo credit: Anita Oakman (1)

< Back How to Choose the Best Plants – Master Gardeners Can Help It’s May and you are thinking about which vegetables and flowers you want to grow in your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, broccoli, swiss chard, cilantro? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. Garden stores have so many different varieties on the racks; how do you know what to buy? Also, is May too late to grow these plants from seed? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help you choose. Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s May and you are thinking about which vegetables and flowers you want to grow in your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, broccoli, swiss chard, Cilantro? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. Garden stores have so many different varieties on the racks; how do you know what to buy? Also, is May too late to grow these plants from seed? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help you choose. The UMN Extension sponsors Annual Master Gardener Seed Trials to find the best varieties of various vegetables and flowers. In 2024, 298 Master Gardeners in 55 counties around the state, tested 6 different varieties of 8 different plants against each other (6 vegetables and two flower varieties; including one herb). The collective results of the trials are compiled at the end of each growing season and each plant is ranked. Winners are the top performers in each trial. The rankings are published each year in January. This will be the 43nd year of the Seed Trials’ existence, so there is ample data on many varieties to inform the home gardener. In Dakota County, Master Gardeners manage two Seed Trial Gardens; one in the First Presbyterian Church Community Garden, South St. Paul and one at St. Joseph’s Church in Rosemount. Some individual Master Gardeners also participate by testing plants in their own gardens. Master Gardeners receive the seeds from the UMN Extension and grow the plants from seed. The plants are planted in the ground or transferred to the gardens in the spring according to planting instructions. Teams of Master Gardeners prepare the soil, plant the seeds or seedlings, water, weed, and monitor diseases and insects on the plants over the summer. Taste tests are performed when the plants are ready for harvest. Data is kept throughout the summer on each plant variety regarding: flavor, disease and insect tolerance, productivity and germination rate. At the end of the growing season, the data is given to the UMN Extension, which compiles the statewide data and produces the annual report. In 2024, Master Gardeners tested 6 varieties of Swiss chard, Asian long beans, stem broccoli, cilantro, shallots, snacking peppers, helichrysum (strawflowers) and centaurea (bachelor buttons). Complete results of the trials are available here . In 2024, the top ranked plants in each category were: Vegetables Asian long beans: Yu Long Noodle Kin – soak seeds overnight before planting outside in mid-May Shallot: Davidor Swiss Chard: Bright Lights Broccoli: Happy Rich – excellent cooked flavor, high yield and minimal stem diameter Pepper: Cupid Cilantro: Calypso – Bred to last longer and produce a bigger harvest; direct sow in late May Flowers Helichrysum (Strawflowers): Scarlet Choice Double Centaurea (Bachelor Buttons): Blue Boy Shallots Note : You can find a complete list of all of the seed trials since 1982 at the same site. Volunteer Master Gardeners around the state, including Dakota County, participate in various projects which improve horticulture and provide gardening information that will be useful to the home gardener. The vegetable and flower trials are one of these projects. Hopefully, you can use this information to grow happy, healthy vegetables or flowers for your enjoyment. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota; Susan Hickey (1), Robert Hatlevig (2,3), University of Minnesota Extension; Jenna Kahly (4)

< Back Foraging 101 Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement. Here are some suggestions on how to get started. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Morel mushrooms, the state mushroom of Minnesota, are a prized commodity for top restaurant chefs and home cooks alike. Rarely found in a supermarket, these mushrooms often run over $150 per pound when purchased online. A more frugal solution is simply foraging for the mushrooms—the cost of morels is now only your time. Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement, the “gatherer” portion of the hunter-gatherer society. It requires a connection to the land, a knowledge of what is edible, where certain plants can be found, and when in the year they will be ready for consumption. Once necessary for human survival, foraging is now made superfluous by grocery stores and food manufacturing. Today foraging is a choice, and its popularity is growing each year. For gardeners, foraging is an extension of the practice in the garden. Often what is foraged cannot be cultivated in a home garden—particularly for wild mushrooms, but also for wild onions or other plants. Learning the forageable plants near home, as well as their life cycles, opens up all sorts of possibilities for new plants to eat. Frequently Asked Questions Q: What can I forage in Minnesota? A: Everything from mushrooms and wild fruit to nuts, evergreens, leafy greens, and even cattails. Q: Is foraging just for food? A: No. You can also forage for natural specimens or even art supplies, as many plants and mushrooms such as lobster mushrooms and sumac are sources of dye. Q: Is it legal to forage in Minnesota? A: Sometimes! Double check your laws before taking anything from publicly owned land, and know if you are on national, state, or regional land. It is LEGAL to forage small quantities in MN State Parks as long as it is for home use, not to be sold for a profit. It is ILLEGAL to forage in any Dakota County Regional Park. As for national land like national parks and national forests? The laws are different for each one. Look up rules specific to the national forest or park you want to forage in. Q: Once I have determined that I may legally forage, what’s the best practice for sustainability? A: Take less than 20% of what you find in the wild for most foraged items, and take less than 10% of what you find if it is particularly slow growing, like mosses or lichens. Q: Where can I learn more about foraging? A: A few excellent resources include Euall Gibbons’ 1962 book Stalking the Wild Asparagus , MN chef Alan Bergo’s website ForagerChef.com , and Bergo’s newest book The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora (2021). For more on foraging laws, see Baylen J. Linnekin’s article “Food Law Gone Wild: The Law of Foraging” (2018). https://ir.lawnet.fordham.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2740&context=ulj Photo credit: Kevin Miyazaki/Meredith (Creative Commons)(1)

< Back Carrots and Parsnips Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your garden for eating in the winter. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. Learn more about how to grow and enjoy these healthy and tasty vegetables. Julie Harris, Master Gardeners Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your gardens for eating in the winter by pickling, boiling, blanching or freezing. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. There are many carrot varieties. When choosing them, consider size (long, thin carrots versus short, stubby ones) and the ultimate use, such as a great crunch when freshly picked, long term storage use, or cooking. Parsnips are white but look like carrots in that they are generally long and they taper from a thick top to a narrow end. Carrots and parsnips love sandy, loam soil. Unlike parsnips, carrots will grow in heavier clay soil as long as it is well-drained and not compacted. Soil can be improved by adding well-rotted manure or compost in the spring or fall. Always sow carrot or parsnip seeds directly into garden; do not start them in pots. Their long taproots begin to develop early and transplanting damages their root growth. The seeds are tiny and can be difficult to handle. Some people choose to buy carrot seed in a “tape” format or in pellets. Seed tape is more expensive but may yield better results because less thinning is required. Minnesota gardeners can begin to plant carrots directly into garden soil beginning April 15 and parsnips beginning May 1. For a continuous supply, one can plant sets of seeds 2 or 3 weeks apart. When the seedlings are 3-4 inches tall, the plants need to be thinned to allow roots to develop. Most importantly, they need consistent watering to avoid bitter, misshapen or undersized roots. Carrots can be harvested when they get to useable size but be sure to water the day before harvesting or after a rain to ensure root hydration. Make sure to loosen the soil around the carrot before pulling them out to avoid breaking the root. Remove the greens and clean the roots before eating or storing. Parsnips should remain in the ground until late fall and even into later spring. Cold soil temperatures increase the sugar content, so the later you dig out the roots, the sweeter they will be. Parsnips are best stored in a root cellar. Both vegetables are loaded with vitamins and nutrients that are good for you. Carrots have vitamin A and beta-carotene which may lower diabetes risk. They also contain calcium and vitamin K which is for good for bone health. Carrots are also known for their fiber which helps keep blood sugar levels under control. Parsnips are loaded with vitamin K and magnesium, and also contain fiber and antioxidants. The two vegetables have distinctive flavors. The parsnip has an almost spicey flavor, reminiscent of nutmeg and cinnamon, whereas the carrot has a flavor that is closer to that of winter squash. Carrots can be eaten raw or cooked but parsnips are generally eaten cooks. Parsnips are generally sweeter than carrots and, in fact, were used as a sweetener before cane sugar was available. The bottom line - carrots and parsnips are nutritious and delicious! References: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-carrots-and-parsnips#diseases-3180361 https://www.organicauthority.com/eco-chic-table/carrots-vs-parsnips-whats-difference . Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Aster and Hyssop – Pollinator Magnets Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the goals for many gardeners is to have plants blooming in the garden all season. With a little planning, Minnesota native plants can help you fulfill this challenge. But having blooms in your garden all season isn’t just aesthetically pleasing, blooming native flowers are a constant food source for pollinators. This article focuses on two late summer plants loved by pollinators - Asters and Hyssops. Asters Smooth Aster The New England Aster is a common plant for Zone 4. Flowers are lavender to violet and yellow centers 1-2” wide. Flowers bloom on the stem ends in late August through October. The plant flourishes in moist acidic soil. Mature plants have woody stems and fibrous roots. Asters are mostly maintenance free but some mature plants can become top heavy and require support. A general low nitrogen fertilizer will help reduce the green foliage growth and produce more blooms. Trimming buds in late May encourages the growth of a bushy plant that is more stable during heavy wind and rainstorms. Divide the plant every three years to encourage vigorous growth. There are several other native aster species to explore each with different characteristics. They range from tall branching plants to shrubs to ground covers. Flowers are blue to violet or white. Some native aster species are: Purple Dome- Dwarf grows 18-24”, deep purple flowers in late summer Heath aster- Native to MN prairies and woodland edges, compact Smooth Aster – blue-violet flowers on 2-3’ stems, late summer Sky Blue Aster – similar to Smooth Aster but likes dry, sunny site Heart-Leaved Aster - Native to SE MN with white to sky-blue flowers Calico Aster – shade plant with small white flowers and 2-3 tall Aromatic Aster - Native to SE MN. More drought tolerant, late bloomer Big Leaf Aster – shady groundcover with large leaves and tall white flowers Check out this article in Northern Gardener for more information about these asters. Companion plants are goldenrod, grasses, oxeye, obedient plant, and showy tick trefoil. The combinations create a colorful late season pollinator garden. Asters are a colorful bloom in late summer and a critical fresh food source for migrating pollinators. Hyssops Blue Giant Hyssop Minnesota native hyssops (Agastache Foeniculum) are another late summer bloomer and fall pollinator. All plants are native to dry areas throughout Minnesota. Hyssops bloom in late summer-fall and are another valuable nectar source for bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. Anise hyssop, also known as Blue Giant Hyssop or Lavender Hyssop is a pollinator magnet beloved by bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and moths. They have light blue-violet tubular flowers on 2-4’stems. They will grow in full sun to part shade and in dry fields and bloom throughout the summer. This plant is also deer resistant. Hyssop is a lovely addition to the urban garden. The attractive light green lance shaped leaves set the plant apart from other zone 4-8 perennials. All hyssops self-sow but the volunteer plants are easily pulled. Hyssop will grow in a perennial garden or border planting in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil. Hyssop is an herb. Anise hyssop’s scented leaves can be harvested for tea, for salads, and other drinks. A member of the Lemnaceae family, hyssop is a shrub that is also native to SE Europe, Middle East and the region around the Caspian Sea. It has an interesting herbal medicinal history being used as an antiseptic, cough reliever, expectorant, and abortive during medieval time. Other hyssop cultivars include: Golden jubilee- gold-colored leaves & is 20” tall. Alba and snowspire- white-flower spikes on top of 36” stems. Companions to hyssop include goldenrod, black-eyed Susan, and coneflower. Native asters and hyssops are not only a beautiful addition to any garden, they are an essential food source for pollinators; particularly late in the summer season. Sources: ext.umn.edu/native-plants www.webmed.com Steiner, Lynn, D. Landscaping with native plants of Minnesota. MBI Publishing, China, 2005 Northern Gardener Anise Hyssop and Asters Photo Credits: Northern Gardener, Benjamin Vogt (1), Minnesota Wildflowers, Katy Chayka

< Back Cat-Grass Learn how to grow your own! Many cats like a little salad now and then – cat-grass that is. Grass is not a necessity if your cat its eating a well-balanced diet. But cats can enjoy it and grass provides environmental enrichment for an indoor cat. With the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener The reasons cats eat grass are not clear. According to Lori Teller, at Texas A&M University, “[o]ne theory is that cat grass is a source of fiber that can either act as a mild laxative or trigger vomiting[.] When cats lived in the wild, they may have eaten grass to trigger vomiting to rid their stomachs of the non-digestible parts of the prey they ingested. It is also thought that the chlorophyll contained in the grass could serve as a mild pain reliever and help keep the cat’s breath fresh.” Regardless of the scientific reason, with the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Kitties are not horticulturists, so left on their own outside, they don’t necessarily distinguish between safe and dangerous plants. [See this list for a helpful list.] But inside, different grasses - rye, oat, wheat, barley, alfalfa, and orchard grass can be grown for cat-grass. Since I have never grown my own cat-grass, I interviewed Brianna Gohde, a Master Gardener from Ramsey County and cat-grass grower. Margie: Where do you get your seed? Brianna: You can buy cat grass seed from most pet supply stores (check the back of the seed packs for grass type(s)) or from reliable seed source catalogs in the “cover crop” or “grains” sections for a specific type. Margie: How do you start cat-grass from seed? Brianna: I treat cat-grass seed the same way I would any other seeds, though I overseed the container so that the plants grow densely. Like with any other plants started from seed, I check the seed pack for seed depth recommendations. I water just enough to keep the soil moist. It’s better to keep it on the dry side to avoid pests. Sticky traps and cats are not a good combination! To keep your cat from knocking over the container, I like to double-pot and use a string to go around both to keep them anchored. The grass grows above the strings, so it doesn’t bother the cat. Margie: Do you have a special set-up to grow it? Brianna: I use generic potting soil and tap water without problems. The grass grows best if it’s in a sunny place. I don’t often put mine under grow lights, but when I have, the grass grows in faster and looks nicer. It takes about two weeks to get tall enough for the cats to be interested in it. Margie: Do you have a favorite variety? Brianna: I have grown wheat, rye and oats. My cats haven’t noticed any difference between the types of grasses. Margie: How long does it last? Brianna: The grass starts looking bad after a couple of weeks of cat attention, but may go as long as a month, with regular care from a human. The cats often lose interest once the grass gets more than 1-foot tall but you can trim the grass down to 6-8” a few times and keep it looking tidy. Some of the grass turns yellow (as older leaves die) and some dies due to overcrowding. Compost it whenever the cat’s attention wavers or it starts looking awful. Hopefully this encourages folks to give it a try. It's a cheap thrill and an easy holiday present for kitties. Try growing this treat for your cat! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1), Brianna Gohde (2,3)

< Back Snow Mold! It’s Not About Putting Snow in a Mold As the snow begins to melt, you may start to see a grayish, and sometimes pinkish, circular straw-like, matted patch in your yard, especially near the street where snow was piled up for what may have seemed like decades to some but was only a few months. The spot can also have a “webby” fungus appearance. If you have this phenomenon in your yard, then click on this link to learn about snow mold and what you can do to prevent it from happening again next Spring. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Snow Mold is a fungus that develops and thrives when early, deep snow covers the ground prior to the ground being frozen. Snow mold can continue to grow once the snow has melted in the Spring as long as the conditions remain wet and cold. There are 2 types of snow mold found in Minnesota: Gray snow mold produces sclerotia which look like dark, hard round bodies on the grass blade. Pink snow mold produces pink-colored spores and fuzzy mycelium. Areas of your lawn that are affected with snow mold will generally take longer to green up in the Spring but usually come back to normal and therefore, is not usually too serious. In a bad weather year, it can, however, kill the grass. If you want to “spring” into Action this Spring: You can choose to break up and spread the larger snow piles around in the affected areas. This will help the snow melt faster and dry out quicker. You can gently rake the area to create a faster drying process and prevent further mold growth. Preparation to avoid snow mold altogether must be done in the Fall with these easy steps: If your yard is prone to snow mold, skip a Fall nitrogen fertilizer which the fungus thrives on. Continue to mow your lawn until the grass stops growing. Cut grass to 2 inches (but not shorter) to prevent the grass from matting and allowing mold to grow. Rake up leaves If you have certain areas in your yard where snow mold is a problem, consider a snow fence to reduce large piles of snow. While snow mold can be a little unsightly in the Spring, a few actions can help alleviate the problem quickly! Source: University of Minnesota Extension: “Snow Mold Prevention Begins in Autumn”, October 20, 2023 Photo Credit: University of MN Extension (1,2)

< Back Create Frozen Luminarias Marjory Blare, Master Gardeners Frozen luminaries are both fun and beautiful to create. This article will give you suggestions on using materials you may have around the house and in your winter garden to create a frozen luminary. Here are two easy winter crafts that you can do with your little ones! Frozen Luminarias You will need: A large shallow container, at least 3” deep, perhaps 18”x14” or so. Vegetation; weeds, twigs, leaves, evergreen cuttings and so on. A pitcher or bucket to pour water into your container A tea candle or an electric candle in a mason jar. (If you choose a real candle you will also need a long lighter such as you would use for a grill. After making sure the candle is firmly fixed in the bottom of the jar, tip it sideways to light.) Make sure you take pictures of the process! Kids enjoy helping to collect the weeds. Cut them a bit longer than your container. Look for bold contrasting shapes. Colors are a bonus but not required. A monochromatic palette also creates beautiful results. Have your child arrange the various pieces in the shallow container. You might have them choose three long pieces, five medium pieces and seven or more short pieces. Cut them to fit the container. Odd numbers of pieces generally result in a pleasing composition. It can be easy to put too much into the container: you want light to be able to show through the finished composition. Don't worry about having the bottom edge all neat, this part will be buried in the snow. Gently pour about two to three inches of water over the vegetation and press down anything that floats, trying to keep them mostly below the surface. You may want to do this yourself, or make sure if your child spills, you've got a towel under it. Letting it soak indoors for a day before putting it outside can help the vegetation become waterlogged and submerge better. Put the container outdoors in a place where snow and/or other debris can't get into it, or alternately, cover it. Don't move it again until it's frozen solid or you will get cracks and air in it. After it's frozen solid, gently tap the frozen piece out of the container. Set it upright in a snow bank, packing snow at the base to help hold it upright. You can place it so that sun streams through it during the day or wait until dark, then light and place the candle behind your frozen weeds. Stand back and admire! Weeds and Buckets You will need: one or more buckets Vegetation, as above. You can use much larger and longer pieces of vegetation.- Enough water to fill the buckets about 4-5" deep. Place the tallest pieces in first, then medium, and finally the shortest pieces around the outside. You will need enough of the shorter pieces to hold the taller pieces upright, although some graceful arching is very pleasing too. Allow the water to freeze and then gently tap to remove. Place on your front porch or wherever you'd like decorations. Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back Tips for Safely Growing and Harvesting Vegetables and Fruit in Your Garden Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses from your garden fruits and vegetables. With the warming weather, Minnesota gardeners are starting to plant their edible crops. So, it is a good time to review tips for safely growing and harvesting vegetables and fruits in your garden. The safe garden produce preparation, maintenance, harvesting, storage and serving steps in this article help avoid foodborne illnesses with your garden fruits and vegetables. Why Safety Tips are Needed Foodborne illness caused by the naturally occurring bacteria, viruses, molds and/or pathogens found on raw produce not carefully washed or prepared can make you sick. (Note: These microorganisms are present in your garden whether you choose to use organic or conventional gardening methods). Additionally, it is also possible to get sick from contamination of produce from chemicals, such as cleaning solutions, fertilizers, pesticides, and heavy metals (lead) and other chemicals that may be found in garden soil or well water. Safely Growing and Harvesting Produce in Your Garden Site Preparation Locate your produce gardens away from manure piles, well caps, garbage cans, septic systems and areas where wildlife or the family pets roam. Use compost safely. Compost is the natural breakdown of organic materials, and also a source of pathogens. To be safe for gardening, your compost must reach a temperature of at least 130°F. Check the temperature with a compost thermometer. Do not use any animal waste, including pet waste, meat scraps or dairy product waste, in your compost bin. Garden Maintenance Use a safe water source, such as from municipal or public water systems. Avoid lakes, streams, ponds and streams as a water source, where they can be polluted by human sewage or animal waste, fertilizers and pesticides from lawns and farm fields, or chemicals from industry. Ground water, the source for well water, is less likely to have microbial contaminants, but test your well water yearly to ensure it is safe. Curtail animals and birds near your vegetation during the gardening season, by keeping pets away, minimizing vegetation at the edges to decrease nesting and hiding places for rats and mice, and stopping feeding of wild animals and birds near your produce garden. Discourage your backyard critters with the use of fencing and noise deterrents. Harvesting Use clean containers, preferably food-grade containers, to set your harvest in. Containers, such as garbage cans or old plastic bags, that originally held chemicals such as household cleaners or pesticides are not food-grade. Use clean hands or clean gloves (that have not been used to stir compost or pull weeds) when picking produce. Do not harvest when you are sick or have symptoms of an illness. Brush, shake or rub off any excess garden soil or debris before bringing produce into the kitchen. Watch out for signs of animals like scat, fur and nibbled produce, and discard the produce that is close to these signs, or that has visible animal feces on it. Storage If you choose to wash fruits and vegetables before storing, be sure to dry them thoroughly with a clean paper towel. (Never wash berries until you are ready to eat them.) If you choose to store without washing, shake, rub or brush off any garden dirt with a paper towel or soft brush while still outside. Store unwashed produce in plastic bags or containers. Keep fruit and vegetable bins clean. When washing produce fresh from the warm outdoors, the rinse water should not be more than 10 degrees colder than the produce. If you are washing refrigerated produce, use cold water. Fruits and vegetables needing refrigeration can be stored at 40° F or less. Fruits and vegetables stored at room temperature (onions, potatoes, tomatoes) should be in a cool, dry, pest-free, well-ventilated area separate from household chemicals. Canning and Preserving: Follow the USDA guidelines and jar instructions for safe canning: https://nchfp.uga.edu Serving Always wash your hands before serving. Always wash your produce before eating. Rinse fresh fruits and vegetables under cool, running, clean water, even if you do not plan to eat the skin or rind. Never use soap, detergent, or bleach solution to wash fresh fruits or vegetables. These solutions can affect flavor and may not be safe to ingest. Most root vegetables will need to be washed (before going into the kitchen) to remove sand and soil. Use a clean bucket or spray table outside to spray or dunk the produce to remove soil. Avoid bringing the produce into your home kitchen before using, as there is more potential for cross-contamination. Avoid cross-contamination when preparing fruits and vegetables, which occurs when a clean work surface, such as a cutting board or utensil (paring knife) or uncontaminated food is contaminated by dirty work surfaces, utensils, hands or food. If you have leftover produce that has been cut, sliced, or cooked, store it in clean, air-tight containers in the refrigerator at 40°F or less. Fresh, home-grown vegetables and fruit can be a delicious pleasure. Follow these simple rules to make sure they are also safe for you and your family to enjoy. Sources: https://extension.umaine.edu/gardening/manual/five-steps-food-safe-fruit-vegetable-gardening/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/harvest-your-garden-produce-safely Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)