< Back Winter is a Perfect Time to Start Seeds Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. Read this article to learn the why, what. how and when for starting your own plants. On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. WHY: Many annuals need an early start in order to maximize their blooming time in summer. Long-growing vegetables need to be started indoors in order to be harvested before the first frost. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: seed trays and potting mix seeds, of course! heat mats to raise the temperature of your soil seed tray covers to help maintain humidity and temperature (or plastic wrap) grow lights (optional) plug-in timers for grow light WHAT: Not all plants benefit from being started as seeds indoors. Many are at their best when sown directly. Always check your seed packets to see what is recommended for each plant. HOW: PREPARE your setup with a heating mat under your seed tray, filled with potting mix and covered by a humidity dome. Grow lights can be plugged into timers in order to mimic long summer days, with 12+ hours of light, but do not plug your heating mat into a timer—heat should be on at all times. PLANT your seeds according to the seed packet instructions, WATER, and COVER your tray with your humidity dome. WATCH your seeds germinate and grow! The first growth you will see are not true leaves, but cotyledons. All plants are categorized by these: a seedling with one is called a monocot and a seedling with two is called a dicot. ADJUST the closeness of your grow light to your seedlings—about 4” is best! If your light is too far away from the seedlings, they grow tall, spindly, and weak as they strive to get closer to the light. These “leggy” seedlings often will not survive, so prevent your seedlings from reaching that state. WATER as needed, and also remove the humidity covers as needed. Too much humidity can create an environment in which molds can grow. THIN seedlings as needed. If many seedlings are too close together, they will not grow at their best. FERTILIZE only once a week, and use fertilizer mixed at only ¼ strength. TRANSPLANT seedlings into larger containers as they grow. As you move them, lift by the root ball by using a spoon or plant tag for support. Never hold by the stem, but if necessary to steady the plant, lightly hold the plant by a leaf. HARDEN OFF seedlings when it is a few weeks before they will be moved out of doors. Each day, set plants outside for a few hours in the warmth of the afternoon. Begin by placing them in the shade for a short time, and gradually increase their exposure to the sun until you’re ready to transplant them to the garden. MOVE plants outdoors! WHEN: This can be the most daunting aspect of seed starting! If you are planting several different things, this can feel a bit like a juggling act. Grab a notebook and a pen to jot down notes from your seed packets on how many “days to harvest” or “days to bloom” for each plant. Consider making yourself a seed-starting calendar to keep beside your trays. Specific varieties will vary, but in general, you can follow these guidelines: EARLY FEBRUARY (14-15 weeks indoors): geraniums, pansies, leeks, onions LATE FEBRUARY (12-13 weeks indoors): dusty miller, larkspur, lobelia, celery EARLY MARCH (10-11 weeks indoors): coleus, dahlia, heliotrope, petunias, rudbeckia, snapdragons, verbena, broccoli Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce LATE MARCH (8-9 weeks indoors): cleome, hollyhocks, phlox, alyssum, eggplant, okra, peppers EARLY APRIL (5-7 weeks indoors): amaranthus, aster, bachelor buttons, calendula, morning glory, ornamental basil and kale, tomatoes LATE APRIL (3-4 weeks indoors): cosmos, sweet peas, zinnias, sweet potatoes As always, you will learn what works and what doesn’t work in your own garden by trying things out. There isn’t only one correct way to practice indoor seed starting, and everyone’s set-up is a little different. For more information about growing plants from seed in your home, visit the Dakota County Master Gardener You Tube site. Here is one “how-to” video . Happy planting! Photo Credit: Valerie Rogotzke (1), Jim Lakin (2,3)

< Back Humidity and Indoor Plants Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you filling your winter gardening needs by growing houseplants? If so, you’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes is dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants . . . and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. In this article, Master Gardener Linda Stein provides advice about how providing humidity to your plants can help them through the winter. You’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes has become dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants…and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. Insufficient humidity may cause browning and brittleness around the edges of the plant’s leaves. Succulent plants, of course, tolerate a lower humidity environment. With this in mind, it’s important to provide added humidity to the non-succulent plants that you are growing in your home. According to an entry in the website from Nebraska Extension, “The Mayo Clinic recommends indoor humidity stay between 30-50% for human health and comfort, but many homes have much lower humidity levels. For plants, humidity requirements vary by species, but generally 70-80% is best.” So in almost all situations, the addition of humidity should be a part of your indoor plant care. There are a number of options available for adding humidity. Use of a Humidifier : A home humidifier is probably the simplest way to increase humidity throughout your home. That will, of course, benefit not only your plants, but also the people residing in the home. However, this method will not increase the humidity level to the amount required by your non succulent plants. Misting : Another option is to mist your plants. Misting is frequently discouraged because the impact is short lived. In addition, water standing on your plant can promote diseases and/or the development of mold. Pebble Tray : To increase humidity, pots containing your plants can be placed on a one-to-two-inch-deep tray filled with pebbles. Add water to the tray. As the water evaporates, it provides humidity for the plant. Grouping plants : Plants located in close proximity to each other can benefit each other. The moisture released by the leaves of the plants can increase the humidity around the group of plants. Use of a bell jar cover : A bell jar placed over a plant can trap the moisture created by water evaporating from the soil and from moisture released by the plant’s leaves. Placement over heat source : If your home has a radiator, floor vents, or a wood stove these can be helpful. By placing plants over these objects, the heat can create the humidity needed by them. Locating plants in a kitchen or bathroom: The two rooms with the most humidity in the house are the kitchen and bathroom. So, if the light available in those rooms is adequate, they are the best location for plants requiring added humidity. So, to promote the health of your house plants, make sure your plants are receiving the right type light, water, fertilizer and soil composition. But don’t forget your plants’ need for necessary air humidity around them. Try the tips in this article for happy houseplants. https://lancaster.unl.edu/houseplants-humidity#:~:text=Grouping plants together can also, pocket of slightly higher humidity. Photo credit: Linda Stein (1-4)

< Back Virgin’s Bower (Clematis virginiana) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you a clematis lover? Do you have a fenceline, large arbor or a slope to cover? If so, this article explains why you might want to consider the native clematis Virgin’s Bower. This is a vigorous grower and produces beautiful white flowers that appeal to humans and pollinators. Easy to grow and vigorous once established, this climbing beauty is native throughout the Midwest. It is also known by the names “love vine,” “traveler’s joy,” “wild hops” and “Virginia Virgin’s Bower.” Less complementary monikers include “devil’s darning needles” and “devil’s hair.” One thing to be cautious of when selecting this plant is to not confuse it with its non-native cousin, Sweet Autumn Clematis ( Clematis terniflora ). The latter plant is highly invasive and will run amok! Virgin’s Bower is a pretty good grower in and of itself. So be careful where you plant it, as it can be invasive in a garden setting. vigorous Virgin’s Bower in home landscape Virgin’s Bower self-seeds and will root anywhere a shoot touches the ground. It is hardy through Zone 3 and does best in full sun, although it is tolerant of light shade. Virgin’s Bower is a woody vine that can grow to 8 to 15 feet. It tolerates a range of well-drained soils from moist to dry, clay to sandy. As you might imagine, Virgin’s Bower does best in natural landscapes. It is great for planting along fence lines or on large arbors. It creates a welcome habitat for pollinators in mid-summer and early fall. Virgin’s Bower also does well as a ground cover on any steep slopes you might be trying to cover. Plants are dioecious, being either male or female. So, check with your nursery when you buy, to assure flowering. If you do, you will be treated to a blanket of white flowers in mid-summer into early fall. The female plants form single dry seeds (achenes) in the fall which persist into winter. These silky, plumed seeds are one of the great ornamental assets of the plant. caterpillar on Virgin’s Bower flower in September If you are a clematis lover, as am I, you will find Virgin’s Bower a low maintenance, vigorous yet charming addition to your collection. Photo Credits: Peter M. Dziuk, Minnesota Wildflowers (usage authorized) (1), © Mary Free, Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia (usage authorized for educational use) (2-3)

< Back Garden in the Minnesota Winter with “Winter Sowing” Itching to get planting? Even in our cold Minnesota we can start our spring gardens. Winter seed sowing is possible using homemade miniature greenhouses and plenty of snow. Here's how... Linda Stein, Master Gardener What is Winter Sowing? During the winter months we can not only dream about the flowers and vegetables that we want to add to our gardens next spring, but we can also actually start those plants through a process referred to as winter sowing. Winter sowing is a cost effective, low maintenance method of starting seeds in the winter for spring transplant. It is also a wonderful method, for those who have limited space, to start plants indoors since the containers are kept outdoors. Many annual and perennial seeds require a cold period to germinate, a process referred to as hardening. In late summer, these seeds fall to the ground. During autumn, they slowly get covered with leaves and other materials. They then remain in the soil over the winter. Exposure to cold temperatures and moist conditions breaks dormancy and the seeds germinate when temperatures increase in the spring. Winter sowing replicates nature’s process in a controlled environment. A wide variety of plants can be started using winter sowing. These include native plants such as milkweed, purple coneflowers, liatris, penstemon, Black-eyed Susans and perennial plants such as dianthus and phlox. You can also plant cool season annuals, cool season vegetables and a variety of herbs. Creating Your Miniature Greenhouse Plastic containers such as gallon milk jugs or plastic food containers can be used to create a miniature greenhouse that will reside outdoors and act as a house for your plants until they are ready to place in the outdoor gardens. They should have transparent lids so that sunlight can shine through and an opening that will allow rain and snow to reach the soil and the seeds it contains. Ideally the whole container should be transparent. The “greenhouse” needs to be deep enough to hold 2-3 inches of soil and tall enough to allow for a few inches of headspace so the seedlings have plenty of room to grow. B efore planting, thoroughly clean the container. If using a milk jug, discard the cap. Cut around 3/4 of the jug just below the handle so you can fold back the top portion of the jug to plant and make several holes in the bottom of the jug to allow extra moisture to drain. After planting, reposition the top portion of the jug and secure it with duct tape. If using a food container or other plastic container cut holes in the top to allow snow to reach the soil when it’s placed outdoors and cut holes in the bottom for drainage. Fill your container of choice with 2 - 4 inches of potting soil, not gardening soil. Moisten the soil and allow to drain. Planting S ow seeds on the surface of the soil or a depth prescribed for the specific plant. Cover the seeds laid on the surface with a layer of soil and gently pat down. Perennials and hardy annuals seeds require a consistent period of moist, cold temperatures before germination occurs in spring. So, these should be planted in January or February in Minnesota. Tender plants including annuals and vegetables can be sown later in spring (March or April) as they do not require a cold period in order to germinate. Place the container outdoors where it will be protected from strong winds but where snow can reach it. The seeds require the moisture from the rain and snow. They should experience all the weather conditions they would in nature. Forget about your containers until the spring when the seedlings begin to grow and put out shoots. Once these seedlings emerge, monitor often. Even during the cold temperatures, the inside of the milk jug can heat up quickly and cause seedlings to wilt. If this happens, you may need to leave the container opened during the day but closed in the evening. Once temperatures warm up in spring, the top can be removed during the day and then put back on at night. Transplant your seedlings to the outdoor garden when the soil reaches appropriate temperatures for the specific plants you have grown. Have fun winter gardening in Minnesota! References : Winter Seed Sowing, https://extension.illinois.edu/news-releases/winter-seed-sowing Youth Gardening Activities Series, Winter Sowing Seeds, https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/ym105 Staring Seeds in Winter, https://extension.psu.edu/starting-seeds-in-winter Photo credits: Lori Voll-Wallace, Penn State Extension (2), Illinois Extension (1)

< Back Pet-Safe Plant Choices Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener There are a lot of us in Dakota County and beyond who love both plants and our pets. Not all plants are compatible with the dogs and cats who live with us. Read on to find out about safer plant choices to make for our furry family members - and a few plants to keep away! I adopt new houseplants every year around January. Some fresh green helps me through the winter months - whether I’m expanding my collection or filling in for some plants that weren’t a good match for my environment (Master Gardeners get brown plants sometimes, too!) We have beloved dogs and cats in our family, so we want to make sure any plants we have within reach are going to be safe for our pets. If you are gifting houseplants, it is a good idea to keep in mind all of the household residents who can access the plants! I would recommend leaving any plant identification instructions and labels with the plant. This extra care also includes floral bouquets, so watch for danger there (think lilies, tulips and gladiola as examples). Today, I’m offering some houseplant options that are safer for dogs and cats: 1. Hoya Hearts (Hoya kerrii), just in time for Valentines Day! 2. Boston Fern - Many true ferns are nontoxic. This plant loves humidity and is a great option in a bathroom with a shower. Be careful, though, of plants such as “Asparagus Ferns” (Asparagus densiflorus cv sprengeri), which are not true ferns. These plants are actually related to the lily family - and are not safe for pets! 3. Rubber Plant (Peperomia) 4. Money Tree (Pachira aquatica) 5. African Violets (Saintpaulia spp.) 6. Gerbera Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) 7. Bamboo or Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) - but be careful of Sago Palms (Cycas revoluta), these are very toxic to pets! 8. Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis sp.) 9. Holiday cactus (Schlumbergera) make great year-round houseplants 10. Many other succulents, such as Echeveria and Burro’s Tail are safe options as well. Check out this article from the Minnesota State Horticultural Society for more helpful information: A good general rule with all plants is to know your pets and double check plant labels . I have senior dogs that are more inclined to reach for the peanut butter spoon than any old plant, so I feel comfortable keeping riskier plants elevated and check for fallen leaves regularly. Some common plants in my home that are toxic to dogs and cats are Aloe, Amaryllis, Dieffenbachia, English Ivy, Eucalyptus and Philodendron. If you have a new puppy or kitten that can get to and munch plants in the house, you’ll need to adjust accordingly and stick to safer plants. Most plants can cause upset tummies if ingested or chewed on, but the above options will help avoid some more serious consequences. You can search toxicity by plant on the ASPCA’s website here . If your fur-baby has gotten into something they shouldn’t have, time matters. Here are a few resources if you are concerned your pet has ingested, touched, or inhaled poisonous substances - plants or otherwise: The University of Minnesota School of Veterinary Medicine recommends Pet Poison Helpline. - For general information or just checking, their website has tons of useful information including Top Ten Plants Poisonous to Pets . - For emergency help, you can call them at 855-764-7661 or email at info@petpoinhelpline.com ( please note there is an $85 incident fee applicable in this case ) ASPCA® (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals®) also has a poison control line (888) 426-4435 and some additional resources on their animal poison control website . Check out this website from beChewy and Monrovia for some great outdoor container “recipes” filled with pet-safe plants. They also have great tips on gardening around pets. You and your pets will have a shopping list ready when the weather warms up in the spring. Have fun enjoying your plants and healthy pets! Photo credits: Brooke Nesbitt (1,6), Sarah Heidtke (2,4,5), Wiki Creative Commons (3)

< Back Garlic Butter Brussel Sprouts Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s March and this month green vegetables may be top of mind (thanks to Saint Patrick, I’m sure). Garden seeds are sprouting under their grow lights and we are excited for warmer days to come when they’ve grown large enough to transplant outside into our gardens. In the meantime, here is a recipe for one green vegetable – brussels sprouts. According to the author, Joy Johnson, even the pickiest of brussels sprouts eaters will love this recipe! For this month’s recipe, I’ll admit I used store bought brussels sprouts. I have grown them in my garden, but I have not had any last in cool storage until March. I’ve never tried to freeze them and would welcome any tips on doing that in case I have a bumper crop this year. Usually, we gobble them up fresh from the garden in late fall. This recipe will tickle your taste buds with it’s spicey, smokey flavors that are cooled with a lemon Aioli sauce to drizzle on just before eating. Garlic Butter Brussels Sprouts Ingredients : 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 4 slices bacon, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 Tablespoons salted butter, melted 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or grated A couple sprigs of fresh thyme for garnish A couple of lemon wedges Process : Preheat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack positioned in the lower third of the oven. In a gallon plastic food storage bag, gently shake together the Brussels sprouts, olive oil, thyme and red pepper flakes. Arrange the Brussels sprouts cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Lay the bacon pieces over the sprouts. Roast until the sprouts are deeply browned and the bacon is crisp, 20 – 25 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the melted butter and the garlic. Remove the sprouts from the oven and pour the butter mixture over them. Return the sprouts to the oven and roast until crispy, 10 minutes. Smokey Lemon Aioli Ingredients: ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 1 garlic clove, finely chopped or grated ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon smoked paprika Salt Process : In a small bowl stir together the mayonnaise, lemon juice, garlic, cayenne and paprika. Taste and add salt as needed. Pile the Brussels sprouts onto a serving plate, sprinkle with the sprigs of fresh thyme, and squeeze the lemon wedges over them. Serve with the bowl of aioli for dipping or drizzle it over them. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,3), foto.wuestenigel.com (2)

< Back Shade Gardens Susan Ball, Dakota Gardener Master Gardener Shade – a gardener’s headache? Does your garden require full sun to be beautiful? NO! While most flowers do require hours of full sun, there are attractive foliage plants and even colorful flowering plants that flourish in shade. As you start to plan your garden for 2025, this article gives you lots of ideas for how to make the most of the areas of your yard that are a bit sun challenged. Shade. A gardener’s headache. All the beautiful and brilliantly colored plants require hours of sun. What’s left is dull and colorless. Not true! While most flowers do require hours of full sun, there are attractive foliage plants and even colorful flowering plants that flourish in shade. First off, know that there are different levels of shade, from part to deep. Deep or full shade means a spot never gets direct sunlight, or only a very short amount of mild, morning sunshine. Part shade means about 4 hours of sun—but mostly morning sun, not blazing-hot afternoon sun. To garden successfully in the shade, know the size of your planting area, your cold hardiness zone (in Dakota County and most of middle Minnesota that would be zone 4), your shade level and your soil conditions. You also need to know if you want to grow perennials - which regrow every year - or annuals - which live for one growing season and then die. (You can grow both). With this information in hand, you can select your plants. If you haven’t heard of that shade “staple”, the hosta, know that hostas - perennials with leaves in many color combinations and textures - are not only easy to grow but can survive in deep shade. They even have flowers, usually violet but white as well. While many hostas prefer part shade - particularly those with gold tones and those with edging or centers of white or cream - “blue” hostas need deep shade to protect the waxy coating on their leaves. Hostas can grow in a wide range of soils, although they prefer moist soils rich in organic matter. While spring is the preferred planting time, hostas can be planted all summer. Be sure to give them extra water then so the roots develop without drying out. Other shade plants include Lenten rose, Jacob’s ladder, astilbe, Dutchman’s breeches and its relative, bleeding hearts . . . and shrubs such as hydrangeas and rhododendrons. Many native plants, especially the spring blooming ones, are also shade lovers. Lenten Roses , also known as Hellebores , are shade plants producing delicate, long-lasting flowers in late winter and early spring. They need little to no moisture and are hardy to zone 4. These are the pluses. Although lovely, a major minus is that these flowers hang downward under their leaves so you must practically stand on your head to see and enjoy them. They can be found at nurseries or ordered online. Dutchmen’s breeches (their delicate white flowers look like breeches hanging on a clothes line), their relative Bleeding hearts and lily of the valley, tiny, bell-like flowers with a beautiful fragrance, are other spring perennials you might want to add to your shade garden. All are hardy in zone 4 and require similar conditions: shade, little to no moisture and well-drained soil. Bleeding Heart Then there are native plants, most of which thrive in shade. Spring Beauty, which, as the name suggests, blooms in the spring, Lady’s Slipper, Jack-in-the Pulpit, Trillium (big white flowers) and May Apples all love shade. Generally, not available at big box stores, look for these charming natives at native plant nurseries or online. There are also summer blooming shade flowers to consider. Brunnera is a perennial with tiny blue flowers that loves shade but does not tolerate droughts or dry soil. As long as you water it and keep it away from too much sun, it will bloom beautifully. It is hardy to zone 3. Jack Frost Brunnera Another perennial with tiny flowers, coral bells , also grows in shade and has a variety of colored foliage. This delicate blooming plant joins foam flower, Jacob’s ladder and astilbes, additional summer blooming shade perennials. All of these plants need to be well-watered, especially when growing under tree shade (which can dry them out). Foam flowers have small, poofy flowers that grow in clusters and like partial and full shade. Be careful not to underwater or overwater foamflower - both are fatal. Jacob’s Ladder has attractive blue and purple flowers and has the added bonus of being rabbit and deer resistant. Astilbes grow large (up to 5 feet depending on the variety), and have showy plumes of tiny flowers in shades of pink, red, white and royal blue that will liven up any shady area. They are also, reportedly, deer resistant. If you are looking for a shade loving plant that will also attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden Black Bugbane is your flower. These fragrant, tall, fluffy flowers sport dark purple leaves that will turn white by the end of the summer. Grow them in partial to full shade with medium moisture. Then there are the annuals. Among those you may want to consider are coleus , a leafy plant with incredible colored leaves: pink and green, purples and yellow and dark reds and almost everything in-between. Impatiens are another pretty annual in multiple colors - red, pink, orange, white and violet. These plants bloom well in shade but are susceptible to dry conditions so be sure to keep them well watered. Shade begonias , with similar colored flowers - except orange and violet - have smaller flowers but are studier plants, tolerating some dryness. Coleus Heartbreaker There are beautiful shrubs that tolerate partial to full shade as well. Check out white hydrangeas, single and double flowered rhododendrons and their relatives, the azaleas . All these shrubs have beautiful and abundant flowers in multiple colors and can be found at most big box stores. Shade, even deep shade, is no reason for a gardener to despair. With planning, a combination of annuals, perennials and shrubs will provide texture and color in shade from spring through fall. REFERENCES “HOSTAS”, https://extension.umn.edu/search?q=hostas in Minnesota Sansone, Arricca, “25 Best Shade Perennials That Thrive Out of the Sun”, https://www.countryliving.com/gardening/garden-ideas/g24882877/shade-perennials/ ? Spring Hill Nursery, “Astilbes”, https://springhillnursery.com/pages/astilbe_growing_tips_and_benefits Spring Hill Nursery, “Jacob’s Ladder”, https://springhillnursery.com/products/touch-of-class-jacobs-ladder ? Weisenhorn, Julie, GARDENING IN THE SHADE, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,5), CallyL, Pixabay (2), www.flickr.com (3,4)

< Back Spotted Horsemint (Monarda punctata): A Beauty with Many Names Jim Lakin, MD Master Gardener Are you looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden? Consider Spotted Horsemint. This native is valuable to pollinators as it attracts butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. It will look great in your garden as a border or mass planting. It seems like the prettier and more agreeable the plant the more names it collects. This is certainly true of Monarda punctata. She’s called Dotted or Spotted Horsemint, Dotted or Spotted Bee Balm or sometimes just Bee Balm to be confused with true Bee Balm ( Monarda fistulosa) that we talked about last month. I point this out not just to prove that Linnaeus was right to assign unpronounceable Latin names to everything that grows. To make certain you’re getting the right plant, be sure to select Monarda punctata when you are looking for spotted horsemint in your local nursery or seed catalogue. When you do get the real thing, you’ll be acquiring a hardy perennial herbaceous that is native to Eastern and Central North America all the way up to Zone 3a. This should tell you it’s a pretty tough customer in addition to being a showy addition to your summer garden. From July through September, it produces yellowish to purple-spotted 3-to-6-inch flowers in whorls on a densely packed elongated spike. Below the flowers, large, purplish leaf-like bracts set off the arrangement. Being a member of the mint family Lamiaceae, spotted horsemint puts out runners to form fairly large clumps if left to its own devices. It is not considered to be too aggressive, however. Plants tend to grow to about 1 to 2 feet, occasionally taller. You should space them out by 12 to 24 inches when planting. It is important to allow for air circulation among the plants as they are susceptible to powdery mildew and rust. However, this usually occurs late in the season after flowering. If it is a cosmetic problem, prune the affected stems. Spotted horsemint likes full sun but will put up with part shade (direct sunlight for 2-6 hours per day). It does best in loam, silt or sandy soil which can be an issue here in our clay-ridden Minnesota soil, although I’ve not found that to be too great a problem with Monarda . As you would expect, it is found in the wild in prairies, sandy areas, rocky woodlands and coastal plains. It will even self-seed in almost pure sand. The prairie strains at least are fairly drought resistant. Spotted horsemint is of substantial value to the native wildlife attracting a plethora of butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. Happily, it is not a valuable food source for deer or rabbits who tend to leave it alone unless things are getting desperate. So, if you are looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden consider spotted horsemint. As a border or a mass planting, it does great! Photo credits: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Plantjourneys.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Snowdrops for the Early Spring Garden Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Are you a gardener that loves to have flowering plants staggered throughout the growing season? Then perhaps you should consider planting snowdrops in your yard. They are the first spring bulb to bloom and they are known to pop up amongst the snow melt. They usually bloom before larger daffodils and tulips. Snowdrops (galanthus spp) are a member of the amaryllis family. However, they are a small, delicate-looking, single bloom white bell-shaped flower with several green upright leaves. They are native to Southern Europe and Asia Minor and are found in woodlands or wet, alpine grasslands of cool mountainous regions. Most are hardy in Zone 5 but some varieties range to Zone 2. The common variety for Minnesota is 3 to 6 inches tall. Of note, Giant snowdrops are not as hardy (Zones 4/5). Where to Plant Snowdrops should be planted in groups of up to 25 to be really seen. Plant them under deciduous trees or shrubs or near walkways where they can be visible in early spring when the snow is melting. They can even be planted in your grass but then you shouldn’t mow over them until 6 weeks after blooming. They go well combined with Siberian Squill, early small Daffodils, Winter Aconte, and Glory of the Snow. Some people also plant them in indoor containers and force them to bloom. How to Plant Plant them 3 inches apart and 3 inches deep in rich, well-drained soil in early fall when the night temperatures are in the 40s or 50s. Consider fertilizing them in the spring when shoots first appear. Pros and Cons Pros: First to bloom in Spring gets you looking forward to the growing season. They do not have any significant insect or disease issues and are deer resistant like daffodils. Cons: Snowdrops are poisonous if ingested by pets or children. To avoid skin irritations, gardeners should wear gloves when handling them. Sources: University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/snowdrops-galanthus-spp/ Penn State Extension: https://extension.psu.edu/snowdrops Photo Credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin (1,2,3)

< Back Master Gardener Seed Trials – Choose the Best Varieties Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s March and you may be thinking about starting vegetable or flower seeds for your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, basil, zinnias, tomatoes? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. So, how do you know what variety to plant? You can look through the seed catalogs or go to the garden store and peruse the many different varieties on the racks. Confused? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help. The UMN Extension sponsors Annual Master Gardener Seed Trials to find the best varieties of various vegetables and flowers. In 2023, 235 Master Gardeners from 51 counties, participated in the Seed Trials. Seed Trial participants test 6 different varieties of 8 different plants against each other (6 vegetables and two flower varieties; including one herb). The collective results of the trials are compiled at the end of each growing season and each plant is ranked. Winners are the top performers in each trial. The rankings are published each year by March – in time to help you, the home gardener, learn about and obtain the most highly ranked plants to grow in your garden – or to purchase when harvested. This will be the 42 nd year of the Seed Trials’ existence, so there is ample data on many varieties to inform the home gardener. In Dakota County, Master Gardeners manage two Seed Trial Gardens; one in the First Presbyterian Church Community Garden, South St. Paul and one at St. Joseph’s Church in Rosemount. Some individual Master Gardeners also participate by testing plants in their own gardens. Two Dakota County Master Gardeners – Marc Battistini and Janice Gestner – are among the group at UMN Extension who select which plants will be part of the trials. Master Gardeners receive the seeds from the UMN Extension and grow the plants from seed. The plants are planted in the ground or transferred to the gardens in the spring according to planting instructions. Teams of Master Gardeners prepare the soil, plant the seeds or seedlings, water, weed, and monitor diseases and insects on the plants over the summer. Taste tests are performed when the plants are ready for harvest. Data is kept throughout the summer on each plant variety regarding: flavor, disease and insect tolerance, productivity and germination rate. At the end of the growing season, the data is given to the UMN Extension, which compiles the statewide data and produces the annual report. Dakota County Master Gardeners who work the gardens also provide horticultural education to community members. Produce is donated to a local food shelf. Complete results of the trials are available here . In 2023, the top ranked plants in each category were: Paste Tomatoes – Cipolla’s Pride; Green Pole Beans – Seychelles; Red Carrots – Malbec; Mustard Greens – Mizuna; Small Watermelon – Mini Love; Purple Basil – Amethyst Improved; Melampodium – Derby; and Pink Cleome – Mauve Queen . You can find a complete list of all of the seed trials since 1982 at the same site. In 2024, Master Gardeners will be testing 6 varieties of Swiss chard, Asian long beans, stem broccoli, cilantro, shallots, snacking peppers, helichrysum (strawflowers) and centaurea (bachelor buttons). Look for the results of those trials in winter 2025. Dakota County Master Gardeners also test plants for the PanAmerican Seed Company. These plants include annual flower varieties and some vegetables. Typically, the seeds grown in these trials are plants that PanAmerican is testing in various test trials around the country to help them decide which plants can be successfully grown and marketed. Data on these plants is compiled periodically over the summer and a report is sent to PanAmerican at the end of the growing season. Currently, the primary trial garden is located in Rosemount. Volunteer Master Gardeners around the state, including Dakota County, participate in various projects which improve horticulture and provide gardening information that will be useful to the home gardener. The vegetable and flower trials are one of these projects. Hopefully, you can use this information to grow happy, healthy vegetables (or flowers) for your enjoyment. Photo Credits: Photo 1 – University of Minnesota Extension; Susan Hickey Photo 2 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 3 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 4 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 5 – Jean Chrysler Photo 6 – Jean Chrysler

< Back Eating Bitter Melon Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern What’s the big deal with bitter melon? I mean, it’s bitter even when it’s mature! What would compel someone to eat it? Believe it or not, this bumpy and sometimes spiky little vegetable has been eaten for centuries by various cultures around the world who have learned to embrace and even enjoy that bitterness. At the same time, they have also reaped its nutritional benefits. Read on to learn more about the benefits of bitter melon and how to enjoy eating it! Bitter melon has long been used in traditional medicine to treat various kinds of ailments, most notably diabetes. In developing countries in Asia, Africa, Central and South America it has also been used to treat dysmenorrhea, eczema, gout, leprosy, psoriasis, gout, and even scabies. In developed nations, recent animal and clinical studies of bitter melon extract have shown that it has potential therapeutic benefit in diabetes and obesity related metabolic dysfunction.1 Does the above information encourage you to give it a try the next time you see it at your local farmers’ market? Maybe the following recipe will. I consulted with my favorite Filipino friends, Teddie and Leila Maasin, to find a recipe that could be enjoyed by someone trying bitter melon for the first time and they shared this one (with my edits ): Vegetable Fritters 4 cups of prepared vegetables to include the following: 1 thinly sliced Chinese bitter melon 1 shredded medium sweet potato (I used a Murasaki sweet potato ) 1 large, shredded carrot 1 chopped medium onion 1 to 2 cups chopped spinach or celery leaves ( or whatever leafy greens you have ) 2 beaten eggs 1 ½ teaspoons salt 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup cornstarch Black pepper to taste Vegetable ( or peanut ) oil for deep frying To prepare bitter melon, slice lengthwise, remove seeds and spongy pith, and thinly slice in cross sections. Soak slices for 1 hour in salted water to remove some of the bitterness, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible and place slices in a large mixing bowl. Add and mix in the remaining vegetables, then stir in beaten eggs until well combined with the vegetables. Now would be a good time to start heating your vegetable oil in a deep saucepan or frying pan. (Don’t forget to have a pan cover handy!) In a smaller mixing bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, 1 ½ teaspoons salt, and black pepper to taste. Add this mixture to the larger mixing bowl with the vegetables and mix until you have a vegetable-laden batter. Pre-form patties from this batter, adding flour or water to get them to hold together. Fry patties in hot oil until medium brown, then remove them to a platter lined with paper towels to wick up excess oil. I like to serve these vegetable fritters with sweet chili sauces like these: Obviously, the recipe featured above is not the most healthful of bitter melon recipes due to the deep-frying cooking method. If you’d like to try another, just look for any of the numerous stir-fry recipes available on the Internet. As a bonus, the Journal of Lipids reference article linked below contains a “typical recipe of a bitter melon dish popular in Bangladesh”, called Bitter Melon Fry with Potato. Check it out! 1 J Lipids. 2015; 2015: 496169 Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1,2,3

About Us The mission of the Dakota County Extension Master Gardener program is to educate and assist the public by answering questions and solving problems about horticulture and related environmental topics. There are more than 130 Dakota County residents who are University of Minnesota Extension-trained and volunteer thousands of hours each year. Events & Workshops What We Do Extension Master Gardeners use up-to-date University information to provide education and horticulture resources. Teaching classes to youth and adults Speaking to groups Participating in community events and projects Conducting research Answering gardening questions online and by phone Partnering with other state and county organizations Learn more about the state Master Gardener program or how to become a Dakota County Master Gardener: State-wide Extension Master Gardener Volunteers program Dakota County Extension Master Gardener membership