< Back Wild Bergamot, the Bees’ Delight Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner Watching bees and butterflies hovering over lavender-topped Wild Bergamot on a quiet summer afternoon is a delightful moment. It is just one of the reasons to include this native plant in your garden. Read this article to learn more about the environmental benefits and other charms of this beautiful plant. There are a number of varieties of Monarda fistulosa , differing in their color and odor. As you might imagine it is a popular source of nectar for bees, hummingbirds and butterflies as well as being a larval host for the orange mint moth and the hermit sphinx moth. It has been widely used as a medicinal plant by Native Americans and indeed it is high in thymol, an organic compound with antimicrobial properties. Bergamot grows fairly easily in any good garden soil in full sun to partial shade. Clumps of plants divide easily. It can be grown from seed although stratification (exposure to damp cold air) for a month helps. It is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae) although it is not terribly invasive. Bergamot forms clumps which can reach 4 feet. It works nicely as a perennial border but it is at its best in a natural landscape or in a prairie restoration, blooming in late summer. That blooming produces lipped, light to dark lavender purple flowers, arranged in a whorl around a rounded flower head. The seed heads will hold into the winter providing visual interest as well as distinctive bergamot aroma. Speaking of aroma, being a native herb, the dried or macerated leaves can be boiled to produce a fragrant tea. It usually is quite hardy, although Wild Bergamot does tend to develop mildew on the leaves in late summer. This is a purely cosmetic issue and not one to warrant a chemical onslaught. Instead, relax and enjoy bergamot’s showy flowers and swarms of colorful, intriguing insects. Photo credit: My Patriot Supply (1), Jeff Fleming (2) & Julie Harris (3)

< Back Just for My Valentine Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Joy Johnson shares how to use those tomatoes that you saved from September’s harvest. And, make something sweet for your “sweetie” on Valentine’s Day. Joy shares her recipe for Sweetheart scones in this article. It’s February in Minnesota and nothing is growing in our gardens right now. If you’re anything like me, back in September you had a bumper crop of tomatoes. I freeze a lot of tomatoes for use in soups, stews, chili and minestrone during the winter months. I also make a lot of tomato juice and freeze that too. To make tomato juice in the fall, wash core and thickly slice your fresh tomatoes. Put them in a large pot and cook them over medium heat, stirring occasionally until they are completely soft and falling apart. Then put the contents of the pot through a hand food mill. That easily separates the skins and seeds from the pulp and juice. I add one teaspoon of salt to each quart of juice. Then I fill quart sized freezer baggies, lay them flat on a cookie sheet and put them into the freezer. Once they are frozen you can remove the cookie sheet and stack the frozen baggies. Here is a simple recipe for a delicious tomato soup . It really hits the spot on a cold winter day and pairs wonderfully with a grilled cheese sandwich. Because it’s red, it makes a fun Valentine’s Day lunch addition. Cream of Tomato Soup Saute: 2 T. butter 2 T. onion, chopped Blend In: 3 T. Flour 2 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. petter Dash of garlic salt, basil, oregano, thyme Remove from heat. Gradually stir in: 2 c. tomato juice Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Boil 1 minute. Stir hot tomato mixture into cold milk: It is VERY IMPORTANT to pour the hot tomato mixture into the cold milk, if you pour the cold milk into the hot tomato mixture it will curdle. 2 c. cold milk Heat almost to boiling and serve. Sweetheart Scones Another recipe for Valentine’s Day that the kids can help with are scones. They are easy to make. You can add craisins, raisins, dried blueberries, dried cherries or dried cranberries. (A little grated orange rind is great with the cranberries.) 2 ½ cups flour (you can use part whole wheat) 1/3 cup sugar 1 T. baking powder ¾ tsp. salt 6 T. butter 1 egg ½ cup milk (you can use cows, almond, rice or reconstituted powdered milk) ¾ cup cranberries, cherries or blueberries, dried Top with 2 tsp. milk and 1 tsp. sugar before baking Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Stir. With a pastry blender or fork cut in butter until mixture represents course crumbs. Mix eggs with fork in a bowl and then add ½ cup of milk and blend. Pour egg and milk mixture into flour mixture and toss with a fork until mixture holds together. Stir in cranberries or your choice of berries. Form dough into a ball and gently knead on a lightly floured board five times. Roll dough gently in to ¾ inch thickness and use a large heart-shaped cookie cutter or a knife to cut 8-10 heart shapes. Before baking, brush each heart with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Bake at 425 degrees for 12-15 minutes until lightly brown. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson

< Back Preparing Your Trees and Evergreens for Winter Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener and Brynne Eisele, Master Gardener We’ve all heard that there are only two seasons in Minnesota---Winter and Getting Ready for Winter (or is it Road Repair?). In any event, Minnesota’s harsh winter can cause severe damage to landscape plants. The big three threats are sun, cold and critters. Happily, there are a number of things you can do this fall to protect your trees and shrubs from the Terrible Trio. Sun Damage. On a clear winter day, the sun can heat up the bark of a tree or the needles of an evergreen to the point where the cells will come out of dormancy. When the sun sets or goes behind a cloud cover, the temperature in the cells rapidly drops, killing the exposed plant tissue. This “sun scald” is most likely to occur on the bark of young or thin-skinned trees such as cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, mountain ash or plum. To prevent sunscald, wrap the trunk of susceptible trees with a white plastic tree guard available at most nurseries and on-line. Stay away from brown paper tree wrap or black tree guards as they will absorb heat rather than reflect it. You should wrap newly planted trees for at least two winters and thin-barked species for five or more winters. Apply the tree guards in the fall and remove in the spring after the last frost. A white plastic tree guard applied to a new planting. Evergreens are susceptible to similar injury, especially with early cold weather in the fall or a spring cold snap after new growth has begun. Although all evergreens are susceptible to this “winter browning”, yew, hemlock, and arborvitae as well as new transplants are especially so. Several measures can reduce winter evergreen injury. When planting susceptible species, consider placing them in areas protected from wind and winter sun such as the north or northwest side of buildings. If a plant is exposed, a barrier of burlap on the windward (usually the south or southwest) side can help. As with deciduous trees, watering in the late fall before a hard frost can make a big difference. Don’t prune after August as this may stimulate growth that a frost will “nip in the bud.” Commercial anti-desiccants and anti-transpirant sprays have not been found to be helpful. Cold Damage. Cold weather can kill trees and shrubs if conditions are right. The cold accomplishes this be freezing the root system which is much more cold-sensitive than the stems of branches. What normally protects the root system of a tree or evergreen is the relative warmth of the surrounding earth. The soil cools less rapidly than air. Any insulation from a snow-cover or mulch will further increase soil and root warmth. Thus, to reduce root injury cover newly planted trees and shrubs with 3 to 4 inches of shredded wood mulch. You should pull the mulch away from the trunk about 6 inches to create a “doughnut” not a “volcano”! Watering is also critical. Moist soil retains heat much better than dry soil. If the fall has been dry water heavily before the ground freezes. This will reduce frost penetration. Before you mulch, check new plantings for cracks in the soil. These act as cold air conduits. Fill them in with soil. Critter Damage. If you have a manageable number of trees and shrubs to protect, the best defense is to surround the plant or trunk with ¼ inch mesh hardware cloth 6 inches away from the plant. This will prevent animals from reaching through to do their damage. Keep in mind the anticipated snow line as it’s important to protect 1-2 feet above the snow line with the hardware cloth to prevent animals from nibbling partway up the plant. It is also important to bury the bottom of the hardware cloth 2-3 inches below the soil surface to reduce the chance of animals tunneling underneath. For smaller, less established trees you may be able to use plastic white tree guards. If you have large number of trees and shrubs to protect, consider applying an organic repellant. Coated hardware cloth cylinder sunk 2-3 inches below ground. Reducing the desirable habitat will help decrease protective cover and nesting locations. This can be done by cutting grass and other vegetation short in a 2 foot radius around young trees and shrubs. It also helps to remove brush piles and add fencing to other hiding places such as under decks. While hungry animals in winter may gnaw on your trees and shrubs no matter the protective measures you take, these methods can significantly reduce the amount and severity of damage. Deer, however, are a different story. They often adapt to repellents and a change of product is frequently necessary to discourage them. In late winter when they are starving, even that won’t stop them. Thus, a physical barrier is often the only way to manage deer. That can be a tough proposition though. Fences should be at least 8 feet high and of sturdy construction. However, a hungry deer if given a running start can clear a 12-foot barrier. You might try an electric fence such as used for cattle. Deer populations have been exploding in Minnesota as we have eliminated their natural predators. Maybe a few wolves here and there aren’t so bad. For more information on this complex subject, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back Ragweed – Our Favorite Weed to Hate Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you sneezing, have itchy or swollen eyes, scratchy throat or nasal congestion these days? The cause might be ragweed! Ragweed pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies or hay fever. And, it can stay with us until October! Read this informative article about how to identify and control Ragweed this season. Achoo! August is the start of back-to-school sales and ragweed season, which lasts through mid-October (ragweed season, that is!). Ragweed pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies, often called hay fever. Preen’s webpage addressing Ragweed called it “the champion of sneeze-inducing weeds” ( Preen ). Many people blame goldenrod for their allergies however all the references used in this article were clear that it is not goldenrod but ragweed that is causing all the misery. Goldenrod Symptoms of Ragweed allergies include sneezing, eyes that may be itchy or swollen, a scratchy throat, runny nose, nasal congestion and/or sinus pressure and pain, coughing, and even sleep disruptions ( Minnesota ENT ). About 10% of the population are allergic to Ragweed. Ragweed has been found across the whole country, with 17 varieties identified. There are three kinds of ragweed that grow in Minnesota: Common Ragweed ( Ambrosia artemisiifolia ), Giant Ragweed ( Ambrosia trifida), and Western Ragweed ( Ambrosia psilostachya) . The three types look different, with Giant Ragweed distinguishable due to its large size, growing up to 17-20 feet. Common Ragweed reaches a height of 2-4 feet, and Western Ragweed grows to a height of 1-3 feet. All three have distinctly different leaves. Western Ragweed leaves are hairy and are oval-lance shaped that are deeply lobed. Common Ragweed’s leaves are fernlike, and Giant Ragweed has palmately lobed leaves. The Common Ragweed has a taproot, Giant Ragweed has fibrous roots with a short tap root, and Western Ragweed has fibrous, creeping rhizomes ( Cornell CALS , Minnesota Wildflowers ). They all grow in disturbed soil, with Common Ragweed common in both rural and urban settings. Common Ragweed’s seed production, per plant, is 3,500 seeds compared to Giant Ragweed’s seed production of 10,300 seeds per plant. Seeds from both plants can live in the soil for up to 30 years, with only 50% depletion seen in 1.5 to two years ( Time to Remove Flowers, UMN IPM Extension , Common and Giant Ragweed Identification ). The seeds are dispersed through wind, water, animals (rodents and birds), and farming practices. A single Ragweed plant can produce up to a billion grains of pollen ( Preen ). Ragweed pollen travels! It has been found 400 miles out to sea and 2 miles into the air ( Minnesota ENT ). This graph from the Minnesota Department of Health (2020) shows the types of pollen and their percentages. Ragweed represented almost 60% of the pollens sampled in the air. Link: Pollen Charts, MN Department of Health All forms of Ragweed can be difficult to control. The best approach is the manual method of plant removal, especially pulling them out before August to avoid pollen release. You can also repeatedly cut them down to keep them from flowering. Herbicides are not generally recommended unless you are farming, which then requires significant applications. Ragweed plants have developed resistance to many herbicides, so if your preference is to use herbicides, it may require the use of several types and several applications. Because ragweed is one of the earliest plants to germinate in the spring (but don’t start causing problems for humans until they start flowering in August), the best method of control is to hand pull them. It is also important to remove them from the yard quickly as they can re-root if left in a debris pile. References: Bayer, Crop Sciences United States: https://www.cropscience.bayer.us/articles/channel/common-and-giant-ragweed-identification-and-management Cornell College of Agriculture and Life Sciences: https://cals.cornell.edu/weed-science/weed-profiles/giant-ragweed Minnesota Department of Health (MDH): https://data.web.health.state.mn.us/pollen_charts Minnesota Ears, Nose, and Throat (ENT) Specialists: https://minnesotaent.com/goldenrod-or-ragweed-whats-worse/ Minnesota Wildflowers: https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/common-ragweed https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/western-ragweed Missouri Department of Conservation: https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/giant-ragweed Preen: https://www.preen.com/learn/lawn-garden-tips/weed-control/weed-notes/how-to-control-ragweed/ University of Minnesota Weed Identification: https://extension.umn.edu/weed-identification/annual-broadleaf-weeds#ragweed%2C-giant-8380611 University of Minnesota Extension Fruit and Vegetable News: https://blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu/2024/08/why-remove-flowering-weeds.html University of Minnesota Extension Yard and Garden News: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/zero-seed-rain Photo Credits: Chris Evans, University of Illinois, Bugwood.org (1), www.publicdomainpictures.net (2), Strand Memorial Herbarium (3-6), https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/western-ragweed (7)

< Back Let Your Yard Take Flight with Bats Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Attract bats to my garden? Why would I want to do that? To understand why, you must read this fascinating article about the benefits of bats in the urban, suburban or rural garden. Learn more about how bats help to reduce the pesky mosquito population and benefit your garden soil. Learn how to attract local bat species and provide shelter for them. Beyond the benefits bats provide to our environment, they are interesting creatures as this article explains. If you want to reduce the insect pests in your garden or simply enjoy a more insect-free evening in your yard, consider gardening techniques that attract bats. Each Minnesota bat consumes about 1500 mosquito-sized insects each night, a meal equal to between 25% and 100% of the bats’ body weight. [1] Reduction in the mosquito population by bats has led to the reduction of mosquito-borne diseases, including the West Nile virus. Bats also come with the added benefit of natural, organic fertilizer – i.e. bat guano – that automatically helps fertilize your lawn and can be captured to help fertilize your garden. Beyond the gardening benefits of bats, bats devour enough insects every night to reduce agricultural pesticide use in the U.S., saving farmers about $3.7 billion dollars a year. In a similar fashion, bats eat forest insects that help preserve trees planted by the lumber industry [2]. In addition, bat research has led to advancements in navigational aids for the blind, use of sonar technologies and new medications (e.g. vampire bat saliva helps manage blood clots). [3] Read on to learn more about bats, gardening to attract bats and bat houses. Minnesota Bats (primary citation [1]) There are eight different bat species found in Minnesota, 42 species in the U.S. and over 1400 species around the world [4]. If you see a bat in Dakota County, you are likely observing a Big Brown Bat which is the most common bat species in Minnesota. Big Brown Bats are 4 to 6 inches in length and like most bats are very light, weighing 12 to 15 grams (less than 0.06 pounds). Their wingspan ranges from 12 to 14 inches in flight and they can often be seen flying 20-30 feet above ground near treetops. Big Brown Bats will swoop through the air and to the ground to capture their preferred meal of flying and ground beetles. However, Big Brown Bats are feeding generalists and will devour many insects including mosquitoes, flies, stink bugs, wasps, moths and leafhoppers. [5] Big Brown Bats have long golden-brown fur on their backs with lighter fur on their bellies. They also have large pointy snouts, bright eyes and large rounded ears (see image A). Big Brown Bats are prevalent in Dakota County because they have adapted to urban living and can often be found roosting in buildings and other man-made structures. Big Brown Bat Each pregnant Big Brown Bat has a baby (called a “pup”) in June or July and will nurse their pups for 4-5 weeks. Big Brown Bats hibernate from November through April and generally will not travel more than 50 miles from their summer roosts to their winter hibernation site. Big Brown Bats are the only known Minnesota species that can hibernate in buildings to survive the winter. Other Minnesota bat species must find a cave or other underground habitat or must migrate over winter. The other species of bat that you may encounter in Dakota County is the Little Brown Myotis, also known as the Little Brown Bat. Little Brown Bats have also adapted to urban areas and may be found in buildings and other man-made structures. Little Brown Bats are 3 to 4 inches in length and weigh 7 to 12 grams (less than 0.03 pounds). Their wingspan ranges from 8 to 11 inches in flight and they are often seen flying a few feet above water or near the top of bushes. Their preferred food is water insects like mayflies and midges. In addition, Little Brown Bats will eat mosquitoes, little flies, moths and beetles. [6] Little Brown Bat Little Brown Bats have short brown fur on their backs with lighter fur on their bellies. They also have small snouts, small eyes and pointed ears (see image B). Little Brown Bats hibernate in caves or mines and mate just prior to hibernation or during hibernation. Sperm is stored over the winter with female ovulation occurring just as the bats awake in the spring. Pups are born in May or June and are nursed for 3-4 weeks. Little Brown Bats will skim over the surface of water to drink or catch water insects. Therefore, proximity to water is important for Little Brown Bats. Little Brown Bats were the most prevalent bat in Minnesota but the species has been decimated by disease in recent years with a 90% population loss. The remaining species of Minnesota bats include the Eastern Red Bat, the Evening Bat, the Hoary Bat (Minnesota’s largest bat), the Northern Long-Eared Bat, the Silver-Haired Bat and the Tri-Colored Bat. It would be uncommon in Dakota County to observe any of these six species of Minnesota bats since they mostly live in forested areas and have not readily adapted to urban areas. Gardening to Attract Bats (primary citations [7]-[9]) Attracting bats to your yard starts by attracting the insects that bats eat, especially nocturnal insects. Moths may be the most well-known nocturnal insects and will be more prevalent in gardens that contain native plants with open blooms at night. Bee Balm, Evening Primrose, Goldenrod, Phlox, Purple Coneflower and Yarrow are good examples of native Minnesota flowers that have open blooms at night. A more comprehensive list of plants that attract moths has been supplied by the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation. [10] Gardeners may be leery about attracting moths because of the perceived damage that moths inflict on plants. Moths do not eat plants; moth larvae eat plants. You can reduce the damage that moth larvae cause to garden plants by planting milkweed and native grasses in a remote location where the grasses can provide food and shelter to the moth larvae. The University of Minnesota has created a list of native grasses and the insects that the grasses attract. [11] Many insects create their homes in dead tree branches and dead trees. Therefore, you can increase the insect population and attract bats by allowing dead tree wood to remain in your yard. To attract beneficial beetles that are the favorite of Big Brown Bats, maintain a compost pile, keep piles of leaves, plant taller grasses, stop mowing part of your lawn and plant clover which attracts beetles. A couple of simple things that all gardeners can do to attract beetles is to maintain a container of rotting sticks and dead leaves and/or a mound of dirt without plants where beetles can make their homes. [12] In addition to attracting insects, additional tips that can help attract bats to your yard include: Plant native, flowering vines at the base of walls or fences. The vining spaces serve as temporary protective bat roosts when bats are flying at night. Minimize use of pesticides which can poison the insects that bats eat. Avoid using treated lumber in your yard because the chemicals may be absorbed by bats that come in contact with the lumber. Keep cats out of your yard since they will hunt bats. Provide a large-surface water source for the bats if a natural water source is not available. Install a bat house. Access to bat guano is an extra benefit to having bats in your yard. Always wear gloves and a mask when handling bat guano and wash your hands and clothes after working with bat guano. Bat guano has an NPK of about 10-3-1 and is a longer lasting fertilizer that is not easily washed away with the rain. Using bat guano that you collect rather than buying bat guano fertilizer helps conserve bat populations since store-bought fertilizers generally require people to disrupt bat caves. You can differentiate between bat guano and droppings from other animals by squishing the poop and holding it up to a light. Bat guano will glitter due to the remains of hard insect shells that cannot be digested by bats. If the poop you find is dull, it is not bat guano. Moderate amounts of bat guano may be added to your compost pile and may accelerate the decomposition process. In addition, gardeners may sprinkle bat guano in the garden or make bat guano tea to spray on leaves to protect the plants from fungal diseases. You can make bat guano tea by wrapping ½ cup of bat guano in cheese cloth and letting the guano stew for three days in a gallon of water. Excess bat guano may be disposed of at The Recycling Zone in Eagan and should not be added to any curbside pickup bins. [13][14] Interesting Bat Facts and Myths Bats are the only mammal capable of true flight. [19] Bats can live to be over 30 years old in the wild but the average life expectancy is between 6 and 7 years. About 50% of bats die during their first winter. (a) Female bats typically have one baby per year with little reproductive decline as they age. Gestation time varies based on bat species, temperature and precipitation. Minnesota bat gestation times range from 40 to 70 days. (a) Some bats in warmer climates eat nectar, helping to pollinate plants such as agave which is critical in the production of tequila. There are also bat species that eat fruit, fish, frogs and lizards. [4][19] Bats do not drink the blood of humans. However, there are three species of vampire bats primarily found south of the U.S. that will bite animals such as livestock and lick their blood. [20] Brown bats use echolocation to detect objects up to 30 to 66 feet away. Bats are not blind and may use vision to see beyond their echolocation boundaries. [15] Bats do not sweat but will drink water, lick themselves, or sometimes urinate on themselves to cool off. [15] Bats may enter a state of “torpor” to conserve energy during cooler hours. Bats take 40 minutes on average to emerge from torpor and be able to fly, which puts bats at risk from predators or other negative disturbances during the torpor period. Torpor is different from hibernation in that torpor can last a few minutes to a few hours whereas hibernation can last the entire winter season. [21] Bats reduce their energy expenditure by 98% during hibernation, lowering their heart rate from 200-300 beats per minute to 20 beats per minute. [21] Bats prefer to fly where there is protective cover within 30 to 90 feet. Bats will rarely cross more than 300 feet of open space since it makes them vulnerable to night-flying predators such as owls. [15] Seeding a bat house with bat guano to attract bats is a myth and has not been proven to help attract bats to a new bat house. [16] Some bats will somersault in the air when approaching a roost in order to land up-side-down which is their normal position while roosting. [15] An estimated 200,000 to 500,000 bats are killed each year by wind turbines. This number is expected to grow as use of wind energy grows. Scientists do not fully understand why bats do not naturally avoid wind turbines. [4] Less than 0.5% of bats contract rabies each year, making rabies a rare disease among bats. [15] Rabies is even more rare in humans with fewer than 10 cases a year reported in the U.S. Humans may contract rabies if bitten or scratched by a rabid animal or directly exposed to fluids of a rabid animal. [22] Humans should avoid approaching bats and should never touch a bat without wearing gloves and possibly other protective clothing. As a precaution, pets should be vaccinated for rabies if bats live nearby. Bats are more closely related to humans than to mice. [19] Guidelines For Bat Houses (primary citation [15]) If this article has convinced you about the benefits of bats in your area, you may want to consider a bat house. A bat house may be beneficial if some natural habitat features exist and: the natural habitat is not sufficient to support the local bat population, or you are trying to increase the local bat population, or you plan to move bats out of a local building (never disturb bat roosts during March through August, the gestation and lactation months). Not all bat species will utilize bat houses but Minnesota’s Big Brown Bats and Little Brown Bats have been observed in bat houses. Generally, if a bat species is willing to live in a building, the species will also be willing to live in a bat house. Bats may occupy bat houses from early spring through early autumn. Bats do not overwinter in bat houses but instead find more suitable hibernation habitats (e.g. caves, mines, buildings) to protect themselves in winter. When considering a bat house, first assess the area for natural habitat that my attract bats. Natural bat habitats include a nearby body of water, large tree canopy cover for bat protection, sufficient sunlight to warm the roost and an abundance of flying insects. Bats naturally roost in tree crevices and cavities where tree rot, birds (e.g. woodpeckers) or other animals have created holes in the wood. Bats prefer roosting in live trees but will also roost in dead trees. Little Brown Bats will sometimes roost under peeling or loose tree bark. Bats may also roost in caves, mines and rock crevices. Bats require multiple roosting sites in an area because mothers and their pups roost separately from males and non-maternity females. In additions, multiple roosting sites are needed to accommodate microclimate changes – e.g. bats may move to a cooler site on hot days. Bats usually adopt a primary roost along with several secondary roosts and have been observed to switch roosts as often as every 2 to 3 days. However, mothers and babies will remain in a roost longer during the maternity and lactation periods and typically return to the same maternity roost year after year. If you install a bat house, will the bats come? Bats identify new roosts while foraging at night. Attracting bats to new bat houses will be more successful if bats are observed close to the planned bat house site before a house is installed. About 50% of urban bat houses and 60% of all bat houses are inhabited by bats. These figures rise to 80% for bat houses that are at least 25 inches tall with the highest inhabitant rates observed for multi-chamber maternity houses and rocket houses. Of the inhabited houses, 50% were inhabited in the first year with 90% inhabited within the first two years. A small percentage of houses were inhabited in the three-to-five-year range but you may want to consider relocating and/or upgrading your bat house if the house has been empty more than two years. [16] Note that bats may treat your bat house as a temporary migration site or a short-term secondary roost site. Both of these uses are important for bats but may make it challenging to verify that bats occupy the house. Install a bat guano catch container beneath your house or install a camera near the bat house to better determine if bats are using your house. Follow the guidelines noted below regarding bat house placement and design to maximize your chances of having bats move into your bat house. Locate bat houses in sites that meet the natural habitat requirements as much as possible – i.e. multiple houses with diverse designs should be placed where there is water and trees nearby, with some houses in sun and other houses in part shade. Bats may overheat in bat houses on sunny, hot days so bats need nearby cooler houses to survive the heat. Ideally, three bat houses should be installed in the same general area (less than 300 feet apart), with one facing east (morning warmth), one facing south (all-day warmth) and one facing west (evening warmth). North-facing houses will likely be too cold to attract bats. Bat houses may be attached to buildings (retain the most heat at night), to poles or to trees that have tall, pole-like trunks that are clear of branches. When attaching a bat house to a building, use 2” to 4” spacers behind the house to reduce the amount of bat guano that may land on the building. Bat houses attached to trees will generally be used by bats as secondary houses due to shade and lack of clearance around the house. Poles or trees should be wrapped with metal or another surface that discourages ground predators from climbing into the bat house. Bat houses should be installed at least 10 to 16 feet above ground level with 10 feet of clear space below the bat house since bats usually drop from the house and then take flight. Remove any thorny bushes or plants with burrs found underneath the bat house to protect the bats from potentially getting tangled in harmful plants. If water containers (e.g. bird baths, cattle troughs) are near bat houses, ensure that each container has rough sides or some device that would allow bats to crawl out of the water. Do not install bat houses close to wires, poles or tree branches that could interfere with bat flight or where predators may wait to attack bats as the bats emerge from their houses. Avoid sites that are noisy, dusty (e.g. near dirt roads) or subject to industrial pollutants. Do not put bat houses where there is artificial light at night (e.g. near a streetlight). Find alternative sites if local insects are regularly subject to pesticides or other substances poisonous to bats. Avoid sites with high human traffic where bats may be vulnerable to human interference. Finally, steer clear of windy sites, especially around wind turbines that are known to be lethal to bats. Once you have selected a bat house site, you may choose to purchase or build your bat houses. Good bat houses will be much larger than bird houses (typical size is 35” x 18” x 7”) and should contain multiple interior chambers that allow bats to move to the best microclimate within a house at different times of the day. Bat houses should be taller than they are wide and contain a few vented chambers which also helps create multiple microclimates within the bat house. Bat houses should not be built with chemically treated wood because bats may absorb or ingest the chemicals during grooming. However, the exterior of bat houses must be waterproofed, seams should be caulked and a roof should be installed to protect the bats from precipitation. Bats have shown a preference for dark-colored exteriors but secondary bat houses may be lighter colored to accommodate a cooler interior. Wooden bat houses should be constructed with screws rather than nails since nailed seams are more likely to gap open as wood ages. bat houses The interior chambers of bat houses should include grooved sides which aids bats when crawling around the bat house. Screening or other similar material is not recommended for the interior of bat houses since bat guano may become lodged in the screen. Bat houses should be inspected monthly when inhabited and cleaned once-a-year during winter when bats are hibernating at a different site. Spiders, spider webs, wasps and wasp nests should be removed from the bat houses during the annual cleaning. Although some wasps may survive in concert with bats, wasp nests may grow large over the years and take over too much space in the bat house. The bat house may be washed out with water or a 5%-10% bleach solution which can reduce parasites. If you want to build a bat house, free bat house plans with detailed instructions are available from Bat Conservation International [17][18]. If you want to purchase a bat house, be cautious when exploring non-specialty retailers. You may get a higher qualify bat house if you buy from organizations that have been certified by Bat Conservation International such as BatGoods.com ( http://www.batgoods.com/category/Bat-Houses-by-BCM-58 ) or Fly By Night Inc. ( http://www.flybynightinc.org/houses_files/bhbuy.html ). Bibliography (a) “Bats of Minnesota”, Minnesota DNR, 2025 http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mammals/bats.html [2] USGS, FAQ: “Why are bats important?” http://www.usgs.gov/faqs/why-are-bats-important#:~:text=By%20eating%20insects%2C%20bats%20save,53%20billion%20dollars%20per%20year . [3] “The Benefits of Bats”, Bureau of Land Management, http://www.blm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files/benefits_of_bats_brochure.pdf [4] “State of the Bats, North America 2023”, Bat Conservation International http://digital.batcon.org/state-of-the-bats-report/2023-report/ [5] “Big Brown Bat”, National Park Service, http://home.nps.gov/shen/learn/nature/big-brown-bat.htm#:~:text=Numerous%20feeding%20studies%20of%20big,Whitaker%20and%20Hamilton%2C%201998 [6] “Little Brown Bat”, Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources, http://dwr.virginia.gov/wildlife/information/little-brown-bat/ [7] “Creating a Garden for Bats”, Bat Conservation International, March 2023, http://www.batcon.org/creating-a-garden-for-bats/ [8] “Night Shift Pollinators”, Minnesota State Horticultural Society, June 2021 http://northerngardener.org/night-shift-pollinators/ [9] “Bats & Blooms: Creating a Bat-Friendly Native Plant Garden”, National Wildlife Federation, http://gardenforwildlife.com/blogs/learning-center/bats-blooms-creating-a-bat-friendly-native-plant-garden?srsltid=AfmBOorPeLd4w409QCgIl-bdZG3ZqArTpV6i4aUkXEuN7LTurgZpfjy2 [10] “Native Plants for Pollinators and Beneficial Insects: Midwest Region”, Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, http://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/22-025_01_NPPBI%E2%80%94Midwest_web.pdf [11] “Native Grasses Benefit Butterflies and Moths”, University of Minnesota Extension, http://grasses.cfans.umn.edu/sites/grasses.umn.edu/files/files/native_grasses_benefit_butterflies_and_moths_0.pdf [12] “Gardeners urged to help beetles”, The Wildlife Trusts, http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/news/gardeners-urged-help-beetles#:~:text=Build%20a%20beetle%20bank%20%E2%80%93%20Adding,Beetle%20%C2%A9northeastwildlife.co.uk [13] “The Scoop on Bat Poop”, Bat Conservation International, http://www.batcon.org/the-scoop-on-bat-poop/ [14] “How to Use Bat Guano Fertilizer Safely in Your Garden”, Epic Gardener, http://www.epicgardening.com/bat-guano/ [15] “Best Management Practices for the Use of Bat Houses in U.S. and Canada”, Wildlife Conservation Society Canada produced in cooperation with US Fish and Wildlife Service and Canadian Wildlife Health Cooperative, September 2023, http://iris.fws.gov/APPS/ServCat/DownloadFile/241311 [16] “Attracting Bats”, Bat Conservation International and Colorado State University, http://sam.extension.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/05/attractingbats.pdf [17] “Four-chamber Nursery Bat House”, Bat Conservation International, http://www.batcon.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/4-Chamber-Nursery-House-Plans.pdf [18] “Two-chamber Rocket Box”, Bat Conservation International, http://batcon.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/RocketBoxPlans.pdf [19] “Beneficial bats help control insects in the garden”, Oregon State University, May 2023, http://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/beneficial-bats-help-control-insects-garden [20] USGS, FAQ: “Do vampire bats really exist?” http://www.usgs.gov/faqs/do-vampire-bats-really-exist [21] “How Bats Survive Minnesota Winters”, Three Rivers Park District, http://www.threeriversparks.org/blog/how-bats-survive-minnesota-winters [22] “Bats Lead in U.S. Rabies Risk”, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 2019 http://archive.cdc.gov/www_cdc_gov/media/releases/2019/p0611-bats-rabies.html Photo credits: Minnesota DNR. http://images.dnr.state.mn.us/natural_resources/animals/mammals/bats/big-brown-bat.png (1), Minnesota DNR. http://images.dnr.state.mn.us/natural_resources/animals/mammals/bats/little-brown-myotis.png (2) , Conservation Society Canada, produced in cooperation with US Fish and Wildlife Service and Canadian Wildlife Health Cooperative. http://iris.fws.gov/APPS/ServCat/DownloadFile/241311 (3)

< Back Our State Fruit: Honeycrisp Apple From mysterious beginnings, to a world-famous apple breeding program at the University of Minnesota, thanks to the research and writing skills of a 4th grade class, the “Honeycrisp” apple became a Minnesota state symbol. Read this article to learn more about the interesting journey of this delicious fruit. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The road to becoming a state symbol begins with a motivated elementary classroom more often than not. In 2005, at Andersen Elementary School in Bayport, Minnesota, 4th grade teacher Laurel Avery made her students’ education come to life when she directed her class to write a persuasive letter. After learning that another 4th grade class had persuaded the state legislature to proclaim the monarch butterfly the Minnesota state insect several years earlier, Ms. Avery’s class set about researching the perfect candidate for the Minnesota state fruit. Since the University of Minnesota has a world- renowned apple breeding program, the 4th graders came up with an obvious choice: a true Minnesota state fruit, an apple that was created right here in Minnesota and became a favorite around the world; the award-winning “Honeycrisp” apple. While the “Honeycrisp” was “born” in Minnesota, its beginnings were somewhat of a mystery until very recently. For decades, the parentage of the “Honeycrisp” was mistakenly assumed to be the “Macoun” and “Honeygold” apples. This was due to a recordkeeping error in the 1970’s. Imagine thousands of research records dating back to the late 1800’s, the beginning of the University’s apple breeding program. The paper records were haphazardly stored in a fireproof vault. So, it wasn’t surprising that an error had been made in determining the apple’s lineage. Jim Luby, a professor in the Department of Horticultural Sciences, who along with Senior Research Fellow David Bedford, leads the University of Minnesota apple breeding program, tasked librarians and graduate student Nick Howard to sort all of the records and make sense of it all. As they tackled the monumental task, Nick Howard dug even deeper by cross-referencing the data with DNA tests. They ultimately concluded that “Honeycrisp” is the child of “Keepsake” and an unreleased apple “MN1627.” Like humans researching their genealogy, apple DNA testing along with the newly organized handwritten records allowed the apple breeders to trace the “Honeycrisp’s” ancestry all the way back to Europe. James Luby, left, and David Bedford Becoming a world-famous apple doesn’t happen overnight. The “Honeycrisp” was developed in 1960, patented in 1988, and not released until 1991. Here is the typical process: Year 1: Study various cultivars to choose parents with desired characteristics. Hand pollinate the flowers, germinate the seeds, plant the new trees in a greenhouse, and do DNA testing on a leaf from each plant that was grown to see which traits were passed on. Years 2-5: Graft successful matches onto dwarfing rootstocks and allow those trees to grow. First fruit appears at around Year 5. Fruit from every tree is tasted with about only 1 out of every 200 passing the taste test. The rest of the trees are discarded. Years 5-15: The trees that make it to this round of evaluation are cloned by budding/grafting onto common rootstock. For the next 10 to 15 years, these trees are evaluated by looking at 25 desirable characteristics, like texture, flavor, storage ability, disease resistance, etc. Like the previous round, most trees that get to this round will be discarded. Years 15-20: Trees that do make it to this round of evaluations are planted across Minnesota and the U.S. in diverse settings. Researchers see how they perform and if the growers have any interest in the apple. Years 20-25: Commercialization begins with naming, licensing, and distribution to growers to propagate the trees. Years 25-30: About 5 years after commercial growers propagate the trees, consumers can finally have access to the apple. The trees that were the result of the cross of “Keepsake” and “MN1627” that made it through all the rounds of evaluation were a huge success. The apple is grown around the world, and is known as “Honeycrunch” in Europe. The “Honeycrisp” has been described as explosively crisp and juicy. It can last at least 7 months if it is refrigerated. Its harvest season lasts from about September 15 to October 5. And, it is hardy all the way to zone 4. Since the “Honeycrisp” was released over 30 years ago, the next generation of apples with “Honeycrisp” as a “parent” have been released, including “First Kiss” and “Triumph.” Time will tell if they are as well liked as “Honeycrisp.” Thank you to Ms. Avery’s class, who made an excellent choice for their recommendation to the state legislature. Their persuasive writing skills clearly made an impact on their representatives who took their case to the capitol. And though they didn’t see success the first year, the following year as 5th graders, their letters and an apple song they wrote and sang to the tune of the Minnesota rouser convinced the state legislators to adopt the “Honeycrisp” as a fitting symbol of our state. Resources for this article: https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/fruit.pdf https://mnhardy.umn.edu/honeycrisp https://license.umn.edu/product/honeycrisp-apples---cold-hardy-minnesota-apple https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/apple-day-scientific-way https://www.continuum.umn.edu/2021/10/secrets-of-the-vault/ https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples https://www.duluthnewstribune.com/lifestyle/state-symbols-are-part-of-what-makes-minnesota-home https://andersen.stillwaterschools.org/our-school/andersen-school-supply-list https://horticulture.umn.edu/news/nicholas-howard-honeycrisp-family-tree https://www.ereferencedesk.com/resources/state-fruit/minnesota.html Photo credits: University of Minnesota Libraries (1), University of Minnesota College of Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Sciences (2, 3), Anderson Elementary Stillwater Schools (4)

< Back Why Do Soil Testing? Wondering why some plants in your yard aren’t doing well? Can’t figure out what might help? Many questions about why garden plants are not thriving can be answered by the results of a soil test. Read this article to learn why you should do a soil test in your garden and how to get it done. Hint: It’s easy! Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Wondering why some plants in your yard aren’t doing well? Can’t figure out what might help? Many questions about why garden plants are not thriving can be answered by the results of a soil test. Whether you’re starting a new garden, converting a yard space from one use, such as lawn, to another like a vegetable garden, or just continuing to use an area for the same purpose, a soil test can provide you with information that will promote success. It is recommended you test your soil when changing the use of the area and every three to five years for all other areas. Soil testing is available through the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Laboratory. The basic soil test will provide information on the soil texture, organic matter, phosphorus, potassium, pH and lime levels in your soil. With that information, you will know the specific composition of fertilizer that will benefit your garden. It will also provide you with information that will help you determine the types of plants that will do best in your garden. Soil testing is easy! You will fill out a form that asks what the area will be used for and the results will then provide recommendations specific to that use. A soil sample of two to three cups of soil can be mailed or brought to the Soil Testing Laboratory at the University of Minnesota. The sample should be collected by walking in a zig zag pattern through the space and placed in a clean tub or plastic bag. Separate samples should be submitted for separate areas of your yard. Go to https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden for specific instructions and to obtain the sample request sheet. The cost for a basic test performed at the University of Minnesota is $20. Happy soil makes for happy plants. Your key to happiness may be a soil test! Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Delectable Strawberry Shortcake (and a Bonus Rosemary Recipe) Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s August and our gardens are in full growth mode, what a delightful exciting growing time of year. One of the most popular fruits that are ripening now is strawberries. Joy Johnson offers a mouthwatering recipe for strawberry shortcake. And – a repeat of a former favorite rosemary recipe. What a great time of year for eating fresh food in Minnesota! It’s August and our gardens are in full growth mode, what a delightful exciting growing time of year. I had doubled the size of my vegetable garden this spring and am enjoying even more abundance of fresh fruits and veggies. Unfortunately, last year’s torrential rains wiped out my raspberry and strawberry patch, so I don’t have any of my own berries this year. I am thankful so many people share their bounty at local farmers markets because one of my all-time favorites is strawberry shortcake. Here is a recipe for whole wheat shortcakes, they are heartier than the lightweight store-bought chiffon cakes. I prefer them and enjoy serving them in a bowl and adding a little almond milk to the bottom for the short cake to soak up. Since I planted blueberry bushes last spring, I enjoy a sprinkling of those on top of the whipped cream. You can never have too many berries! Strawberry Shortcakes Ingredients: 1-quart strawberries, cored and sliced 1 cup sugar 1/3 cup shortening 2 cups white whole wheat flour 2 tablespoons sugar 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt ¾ cup almond milk Sweetened Whipped Cream Process: Mix strawberries with 1 cup sugar; let stand 1 hour. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Cut shortening into flour, 2 T. sugar, the baking powder and salt until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in milk just until blended Gently smooth dough into a ball on lightly floured board. Knead a bit, until it’s well combined, but not sticky Roll out gently to about ½ inch thick Fold the dough over on itself and gently roll out again just to loosely stick the folded dough together. Cut with a knife or biscuit cutter into rounds or squares. Place about 1 inch apart on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake until golden brown, 10-12 minutes. Split apart while still warm, stack in a bowl with strawberries and whipped cream I met one of our new Master Gardener interns while working on a project team a couple weeks ago. We, of course, got to chatting about food and using herbs we grow. She requested a reprinting of my recipe for Rosemary Shortbread, since she wasn’t a Master Gardener when this recipe was first published in the Garden Buzz years ago. The Rosemary shortbread is a mouth-watering treat and definitely worth repeating. I hope you all enjoy it. Rosemary Shortbread Ingredients: 2 cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cup granulated sugar 1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon plus 1 pinch kosher salt 1 cup unsalted cold butter, cut into 1-inch chunks 1-2 teaspoons rosemary, chestnut or other dark, full-flavored honey Process: Heat oven to 325 degrees In a food processor, pulse together flour, sugar, rosemary and salt. Add butter and honey and pulse to fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until some crumbs start to come together, but don’t overprocess. Dough should not be smooth. Press dough into an ungreased 9-inch baking dish. Prick all over with a fork. Bake until gold brown, 35-40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Cut into squares, bars or wedges while still warm. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1), pixabay.com (2)

< Back Preserving Your Harvest Tori Clark, Master Gardener Many of the vegetables you have been growing all summer are ready to harvest in September. Unfortunately, most things can only be stored fresh for a short period of time even in perfect conditions. If you have the time and the inclination you can harvest more of your garden and preserve it to enjoy long after the growing season has passed. Late summer means harvest time in Minnesota gardens! You can harvest vegetables and more at peak ripeness, but most things can only be stored fresh for a short period of time even in perfect conditions. You have eaten your fill, but the garden keeps on giving so if you have the time and the inclination you can harvest more of your garden and preserve it to enjoy long after the growing season has passed. Options for preserving fruits, vegetables, and herbs include freezing, drying, canning, pickling, and more. Each option has its benefits and drawbacks and some options are better for preserving different types of food. The University of Minnesota Extension has a series of short, informative food preservation videos to get you the information you need to safely preserve your vegetables, sauces, jams, and salsas to enjoy later. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back Gai Lan: The Versatile Chinese Broccoli Expand your vegetable choices with Gai lan. Also known as Chinese broccoli, Gai lan is a leafy green vegetable that is a staple in Chinese and Asian cuisine. It is a close relative to broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage. Its harvest time and preference for cooler growing conditions makes it a great vegetable option for spring and fall in Minnesota gardens. Gai lan has its own unique flavor profile and texture compared to American broccoli. Read this article to learn more about this healthy and flavorful vegetable. Vida Dam, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Gai lan, also known as Chinese broccoli, is a leafy green vegetable that is a staple in Chinese and Asian cuisine. Its scientific name is Brassica oleracea var. alboglabra , making it a close relative to broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage. Its harvest time and preference for cooler growing conditions makes it a great vegetable option for spring and fall in Minnesota gardens. Gai lan has its own unique flavor profile and texture compared to American broccoli. What is Gai Lan! Gai lan is a cruciferous vegetable with thick, glossy, blue-green leaves, thick and juicy stems and small, yellow or white flower buds. It is also commonly known as Chinese broccoli, Chinese kale, gai lan, kie lan, jie lan, guy lon at Asian markets. Unlike the large head of common broccoli, gai lan is harvested as individual stems. Its flavor is a fascinating blend of bitter and sweet, with a satisfying crunch depending on harvest time. The entire plant, including the leaves, stems, and flower buds, is edible and highly nutritious. Gardening with Gai Lan! Similar to many of its relatives, gai lan prefers cooler growing conditions and will bolt during high heat conditions. Gai lan can be started inside and transplanted in spring for an early summer harvest. Gai lan can also be a succession crop with direct seed in late July harvesting in late September and October. The crop prefers full sun, fertile and well-drained soils. But note - before the florets arrive or before it blooms, please harvest the crop. The stems are more tender, crispy and not as fibrous when harvested before the florets arrive. Usual harvest is the full stem with the leaves and florets. Cooking with Gai Lan! Gai lan is an excellent source of vitamins A, C, and K, as well as folate, calcium, and iron. All parts of the vegetables from stem, leaves, and flowers are edible for dishes. It is a very versatile vegetable that can be stir fried, blanched, steamed and garnished in soup to name a few options. In a chinese restaurant and during dim sum, people may come across gai lan in a cantonese style where it is blanched and drizzled with oyster sauce. Clean gai lan like any other greens, removing the bottom portion of the stem that is appearing tough. Leverage a vegetable peeler for extra thick and tough skins at the bottom of the stem. For big stems, feel free to halve them before cooking. For leaves, discard any thick, wilted, and any leaves that are not dark green. For the buds, individuals can choose to keep or remove per personal preference. A few referenced recipes are below from the Tufts University: Cantonese Gai Lan Stir Fry Chinese Broccoli and Shiitake Rice Stir Fry Sauteed Chinese Broccoli with Garlic Stir Fried Chinese Broccoli If you haven’t already done so, expand your culinary horizons and try Gai lan for a tasty and healthy meal. Resource Links: Tuft University - basic information https://nesfp.nutrition.tufts.edu/world-peas-food-hub/world-peas-csa/produce-recipes/chinese-broccoli#:~:text=Chinese%20broccoli%20has%20broad%20blue,with%20a%20sometimes%20spicy%20flavor . Australia Horticulture: Asian Vegetables - basic information https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/vegetables/commodity-growing-guides/asian-vegetables/g-l/gai-lan-embrassica-oleracea-var.-alboglabraem Singapore plant details - more information about Plant https://gardeningsg.nparks.gov.sg/page-index/edible-plants/kai-lan/?hl=en-US Mygardenlife: facts about growing the vegetable https://mygardenlife.com/plant-library/guy-lon-chinese-broccoli-brassica-oleracea-var-alboglabra Photo Credits: Vida Dam (1,2) www.artofit.org (3)

< Back Cooking with Frozen Vegetables (And a St. Patrick’s Day Nod) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s not too early to order seeds for your vegetable garden this summer but first, you need to use up all those vegetables left over from last summer that are sitting in your freezer. Joy Johnson’s Minestrone soup will help you do just that. Add some Irish soda bread for a great St. Patrick’s Day meal. The ground is still frozen in Dakota County and I don’t have anything growing in my garden. However, I have received some seed catalogs already and I’ve even seen a rack of seed packets for sale at the store. You may be thinking about starting some vegetable plants early indoors. It’s always so fun to see the little seedlings sprout. I just realized that if I’m going to grow more vegetables this year, I need to clean out my freezer and use all the ones I froze last year. I have been using my frozen produce all winter long, see my past recipes! But I do still have a variety of veggies in my freezer. I like to cook in large batches so I have food to share with other family members, or just so I don’t have to cook for a few days, and we can live on leftovers. I have a recipe that I’ve been making for years that uses my frozen veggie stash and makes plenty to share. A bonus – everyone who has eaten it has loved it. The recipe is flexible, so if you don’t have one of the veggies, or you want to add in something that is not listed, feel free to experiment. This recipe is from The Saint Paul Farmers Market Produce Cookbook. Minestrone Soup 6 cups beef broth 1 (15 oz.) can great northern, cannellini or lima beans 1 large potato, peeled and dices 2 carrots, sliced 2 ribs celery, sliced 1 white or yellow onion, chopped 1 small green pepper, chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 1 ½ cups green cabbage, chopped 1 cup zucchini, cubed 1 cup green beans, cut in 1-inch lengths ½ lb. spinach or Swiss chard, chopped 3 cups Italian plum tomatoes, chopped ½ cup small shell macaroni or other pasta, uncooked ½ tsp each dried oregano and rosemary (or 1 tsp. each, fresh or frozen, chopped) 1 tsp dried basil (or 2 tsp fresh or frozen chopped) 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper Grated Parmesan cheese In a large stockpot, bring beef broth to a boil. Add cannellini beans, potato, carrots and celery. Simmer 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a skillet and sauté onion, garlic and green pepper for 5 minutes. (If using frozen peppers, no need to sauté). Add to broth mixture and simmer another 15 minutes. Add cabbage, zucchini, green beans, and spinach or Swiss chard. Simmer 10 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes, pasta, oregano, rosemary, basil, salt and pepper. Simmer another 15 minutes or until pasta is cooked. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. Makes 15 servings. A bread that goes well with Minestrone, and gives a nod to Saint Patrick’s Day, is Irish Soda Bread. The recipe that I’m sharing with you here is an authentic Irish recipe. My elderly neighbor who is 100% Irish has verified that it is a true Irish soda bread because it has raisins and caraway seeds. Irish Soda Bread 3 ½ cups flour 2/3 cup sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp baking powder 1 ½ cup raisins Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. In a separate bowl mix together these wet ingredients: 1 1/3 cups buttermilk 2 eggs beaten 4 Tbsp melted butter ½ tsp vanilla 1 Tbsp vanilla 1 Tbsp carraway seeds Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix until well blended. Grease and flour baking dish. I use an actual Irish soda bread pan, it’s like a 9” round cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60 minutes. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons (1) & Flickr (2)

< Back Imagining Your Garden’s Possibilities January is a month of fresh starts, a time to renew and begin again. Whether you were pleased or frustrated with your garden in 2021, the new year is a great time to dream about your 2022 garden’s possibilities. Valerie Rogotzke shares some thoughts about how to reimagine your garden. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener January is a month of fresh starts, a time to renew and begin again. This might not seem to be the best time to be thinking about the garden for Minnesotans, but the frozen ground outside gives gardeners a reprieve from weeding and a chance to imagine possibilities for the future. Perhaps your dream garden evokes a specific place. Imagine an English cottage garden with meandering borders bursting with colorful perennials and a bench under an arbor of hardy wisteria, like one of Gertrude Jekyll’s horticultural masterpieces at Hestercombe House or Lindisfarne Castle . Picture a formal French garden with manicured hedges and a water fountain, like the grounds of Vaux-le-Vicomte or the Tuileries in Paris. Envision a Japanese garden such as Kenroku-en or Koraku-en with winding stone paths through mossy undergrowth, evergreens in abundance, and a pool of still water. Which small elements from these styles could be transplanted to Dakota County? Perhaps your dream garden serves a particular function, providing you with flowers for cuttings, bees for pollinating, or vegetables for eating. To have flowers for bouquets all through the growing season, gardeners must plant with an eye to the calendar, making sure there are options peaking in each month. In addition, it is helpful to have flowers of different scales when assembling arrangements, with larger blooms like dahlias and roses balanced by smaller blooms or ornamental grasses to fill the vase. To encourage bee populations, begin to dig around in the UMN Extension program’s resources on choosing the best pollinator-friendly plants for our area and creating habitat and nesting sites for pollinators. To maximize your success with vegetables and fruits in your garden, take some time now, in winter, to take stock of what has been growing in your garden and what you would like to cultivate this year. Perhaps you have always wanted a small plot of asparagus or a pizza garden with basil and tomatoes. Maybe it’s just time to try something new: sorrel, maybe, or endives? Browse the U’s vegetable guides for ideas and tips for healthy vegetables. A vegetable garden need not be a grand ornamental potager like the kitchen gardens of Villandry – just consider what things you want to eat. Perhaps your dream garden includes time-intensive projects that will not be ready in a year or two, like espaliered apple trees . Perhaps you’d like to rewild an area of your land to encourage native prairie growth , build an Elizabethan knot garden out of interlocking hedges, or develop a natural dye garden with madder and indigo and coreopsis in order to dye fabrics. Whatever your dreams are for your garden, do your dreaming now and dream big! There will be time to prune these dreams back later when practical concerns are considered but January belongs to the imagination. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)