< Back How to Choose Just the Right Tree Karna Berg, Master Gardener Trees can add so much character to the landscape of your yard. But it’s important to choose a tree that meets your goals. After all, a tree you plant now may last a lifetime. When deciding to add a tree to your landscape there are many things to consider. This article will help you get started on what you need to research. Once you have decided you’d like a new tree in your yard, the hard part comes. There are so many possibilities to choose from, how does one choose? Here are some basics to consider along with a couple sources to give you more information. Answer these questions before heading to the nursey. First, ask yourself, why do I want a tree? Do you want it for shade, beauty, wildlife, privacy, fall color, fruit or something else? That will help you to immediately narrow your search. Then, consider the character of your home and yard. Do you have a large or small yard? Are there power lines overhead? Do you have sun? How about moisture, is your yard wet or dry? You probably don’t want a tree that will overpower your house, hit power lines, die from lack of sun, or need constant watering. Now, consider the amount of time you want to spend caring for this tree. Do you want to be constantly trimming it, picking fruit, cleaning up the mess it makes, or wrapping it for winter? Or do you want a low care tree? River Birch None of these answers will come just from looking at the tag at the nursery. You must do some thinking and a little research on your own. For example, it is not wise to rely on the tag to tell you how tall and wide the tree will get. It seems that most plants grow larger than what the tag tells you. Here are a few suggestions. If you want a tree for shade, you are looking for a deciduous tree that will lose its leaves in the winter. And you probably want some height. But make sure it is not so wide it hits your house or shades your vegetable garden. There are now some beautiful deciduous trees that get no wider than about 5 feet. If you want beauty, you are looking for an ornamental tree. There are many to pick from. Read about the blooms or other color the tree will provide. Be aware that generally, these trees will do best in full sun. They vary widely in height so pick the size to fit your spot. And be sure to consider the zone listed on the tag. While some gardeners have had luck with zone 5 trees and plants, it is always chancy. A beautiful Japanese maple I had in my yard suddenly died during a winter of extreme temperature changes. And that seems to be the way our winters are going. Crabapple Red Splendor If you want privacy, go for an evergreen tree that will not shed its needles in the winter. A good choice would be a type of arborvitae. While we could not cover all the issues in selecting a tree, the University of Minnesota Extension has some great resources on choosing the right tree. Click this link to find recommended trees for Minnesota, trees for pollinators, trees for shady area and more. And check out this Minnesota Department of Natural Resources site for advice on choosing the “right” tree. Choose well and you will enjoy many years with the new tree in your yard. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back I Forgot to Plant My Garlic in October! Planting Garlic in March Michelle Scullard, Master Gardener Are you a garlic lover? Yes, you can buy it at the grocery store but garlic grown in your own garden is so good. Garlic is normally grown in late fall BUT not to worry, if you act quickly, you can plant garlic in March and harvest it in July. Read this article to learn more about planting garlic in the spring or the fall. Didn’t get around to planting garlic this past fall? You can still get a garlic harvest this summer but you have to be quick and get that garlic in the ground as early as possible in March. As soon as the ground is thawed, you can plant those garlic cloves. Usually, garlic is planted in the fall in mid-to-late October, after the first killing frost. It is covered with straw or leaves and in the spring, emerges as one of the first green plants. Luckily, Minnesota springs are cool, so planting garlic in March still allows the garlic to go through the cold period it needs, although it is much shorter. Your garlic bulbs may be a little smaller, but you will still be able to harvest your own garlic. And there is nothing like eating fresh garlic from your own garden! You should not plant the garlic bulbs from the grocery store as those are usually from California and do not grow well in Minnesota. You can look at seed catalogs or nurseries for garlic to plant and some may still have some seed garlic. There are two types of garlic; hardneck and softneck. Types of hardneck that grow well in Minnesota include Rocamble, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain. Softneck varieties that do well in Minnesota are Artichoke and Silverskin. They produce bulbs with more cloves and are the type of garlic you can braid. Garlic is very easy to plant. To plant, take a bulb of seed garlic and break it into the individual cloves. Dig a small hole and place the clove pointed side up and cover with soil. You do not have to remove the papery skin that covers it. You can plant garlic close together, which allows you to plant a large crop in a small space. Plant in double rows that are six inches apart and plant the double rows 30 inches apart. You will want to plant in well-drained soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. You will want to cover with three to four inches of straw or leaf mulch to add an insulation layer. You do not have to worry about uncovering them as the garlic will push through organic cover. Controlling weeds is important as weeds can easily overwhelm the young garlic plants. Leaving the insulating straw or leaves that you used to cover them when you planted can help suppress weeds and keep in moisture. Water weekly to a depth of one inch. Insects that can affect garlic include onion maggots, bulb mites, and aster leafhoppers. The aster leafhoppers can cause the disease aster yellow. Make sure to practice a four-year rotation to help reduce insect and disease problems and only plant firm, healthy cloves purchased from reliable sources. Scapes are a bonus that grow at the end of the garlic stalk in early June. The hardneck garlics generally produce the scapes; rarely will the softnecks produce them. The scapes are the curved part of the stem at the top of the garlic stock. You can cut them when the green stalk starts curling. Cook them by sauteing them in oil, making pesto, or adding to dishes such as quiche. You can find recipes for scapes on the internet. There are mixed opinions on cutting the garlic scapes, however, as some people believe it affects the size of the garlic bulb. If you choose to leave the scape, a small garlic bulb grows on the end that will have small white and purple flowers. These can be harvested to use as garlic seeds for a future growing season. Garlic is harvested in late June to late July when the lower leaves begin to brown and about half the upper leaves are still green. You can also harvest a bulb and cut it in half to see if the cloves fill out the skins. If you are planting your garlic in March, you will likely be harvesting more toward end of July. Once you have dug up your garlic bulbs, leave about six inches to a foot of stem and knock off any soil. You then will need to allow the bulbs to cure for three to four weeks in a warm, dry, and airy place. You can place them over a screen or hang them so air flows around them. Once cured, cut the stems off and any remaining roots. You will want to store the bulbs in a cool, dry location. Garlic will keep for several months. You can eat the garlic as soon as it has cured. You can also save some to plant in the Fall after the first killing frost. For more information: Growing Garlic, UMN Extension Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back October - “Fall”ing for Compost Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Supplies Needed : Large Plastic Water/Pop Bottle or Comparable Container Utility Knife, Push Pin/Tack or Small Nail Small Dish or Tray to set Bottle into Greens (ex. vegetable and/or fruit food scraps, non-fertilized grass clippings) Browns (ex. sticks, leaves, sawdust, pine needles, clean cardboard) Spray Bottle with Water Long dowel, long handled Spoon or Narrow Trowel Sunny spot - on shelf, counter, windowsill Patience Composting is a natural way of helping the environment using our home and garden waste to create compost that can be used in our gardens and plantings. By placing waste items together (greens & browns) and allowing them to break down or decompose we help to cut down on the food and yard waste scraps we throw away on a day-to-day basis. Composting also provides wonderful benefits as a gardener as a way of natural recycling…turning items we typically would throw away and turning them into usable soil for our future plants. Starting small and educating our “Little Sprouts” about the importance of the how-to’s of composting and letting them create their own compost container benefits us all. If using a large plastic water/pop container, please have an adult cut the top of the bottle off just as it begins to round downward. Next, if age appropriate, allow your “Little Sprout” to use the pin/tack to push through the bottom of the bottle/container to make a few small holes. If the plastic is too thick or the child is too small, please have the adult place holes in the bottom of the container. A small dish or tray will catch any moisture that escapes from the bottom. What about the browns and greens? Composting is like cooking with a recipe. Just like when baking cookies, various ingredients are needed and the same is true with creating a successful compost. To create a successful compost both greens and browns are needed in addition to water and the natural process of decomposition. “Greens” are simply the moist ingredient that provides nitrogen and moisture that helps things grow. Greens include fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, coffee and tea grounds and eggshells. Yes - “Greens” don’t necessarily need to be green. “Browns” are the items we add to the compost that provide air pockets in the pile, increase bulk and are full of carbon. The brown items include dry leaves, cardboard and plain paper (no shiny paper, tape or printing on cardboard), non-died wood chips, twigs, sticks, sawdust and pine needles. Again, all materials don’t necessarily need to be brown, but for the most part browns are brown. What not to use in my home compost: dairy, fish, meat and fats should be avoided. Next is the real fun…layering the browns and greens (In a larger compost bin the ratio of browns to greens is 2-1, but in our small compost bin just try your best.). The container used does not have to be filled to the top in that composting is about adding layers as you go and as you produce green and brown compostable items. In the container place brown materials first. Spray the layer lightly with water and then proceed with a green layer followed by another brown layer. Spray a light mist and place another green layer followed by brown. Repeat until you have filled your compost bin to the top or have decided to stop. Don’t forget to mist the brown layer each time. Once you have reached the level of compost in the container, place it in a sunny location. As the elements added decompose with the help of good bacteria and fungi, you will begin to see the actual breakdown of the elements involved. But your “Little Sprouts” job is not done. The compost needs to be turned so take a small dowel, trowel or spoon and turn the compost. Turning the compost can take place every 2-3 days. The slow process of decomposing takes time so be patient. It can take months for the greens and browns to turn into the perfect compost, but it is worth the wait. When the product being created is a dark color, falls apart and smells like soil, then your compost is ready. Remember, greens and browns can continually be added to the container so keep it up. Overtime, wonderful compost will be created and can be used in your garden or around your flowers. Happy Fall Composting! Photo credit: pexels.com (1,2,3)

< Back Entangled Life “Fungi provide the key to understanding the planet on which we live and the ways we think, feel and behave. Yet they live their lives largely hidden from view and over ninety percent of their species remain undocumented.” So explains Merlin Sheldrake in his fascinating book “Entangled Life.” Read this book review to discover more about the role of fungi in our lives. Reviewed by Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Merlin Sheldrake's book Entangled Life will fascinate you with the many hundreds of ways, (good and bad) in which fungi affect our planet; from billion-dollar world-wide crop damage, to helping fight Colony Collapse Disorder in bees and even helping it rain! Without fungi, we wouldn't have antibiotics, beer, wine or some kinds of bread or that black gold called compost. Plants have formed a symbiotic relation with fungi, which helps the plants take in phosphorous and nitrogen. Fungi can be found not just around the roots but also between the cells of some plants. Did you know that slime molds can “run” mazes”? There are even fungi that “hunt” and digest nematodes. Sheldrake takes us on his journey of discovery while researching fungi. You'll read about exotic locals, exhausting field work, and his experience of participating in an LSD study on whether or not a scientist's mind can solve problems that formerly stumped them while on LSD. Sheldrake doesn't hesitate to speculate on the possibly world-view changing implications of his field of research. You will take away a humbling understanding of our world and its interconnections. Photo Credit: Merlin Sheldrake "Entangled Life" book jacket

< Back Humidity and Indoor Plants Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you filling your winter gardening needs by growing houseplants? If so, you’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes is dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants . . . and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. In this article, Master Gardener Linda Stein provides advice about how providing humidity to your plants can help them through the winter. You’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes has become dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants…and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. Insufficient humidity may cause browning and brittleness around the edges of the plant’s leaves. Succulent plants, of course, tolerate a lower humidity environment. With this in mind, it’s important to provide added humidity to the non-succulent plants that you are growing in your home. According to an entry in the website from Nebraska Extension, “The Mayo Clinic recommends indoor humidity stay between 30-50% for human health and comfort, but many homes have much lower humidity levels. For plants, humidity requirements vary by species, but generally 70-80% is best.” So in almost all situations, the addition of humidity should be a part of your indoor plant care. There are a number of options available for adding humidity. Use of a Humidifier : A home humidifier is probably the simplest way to increase humidity throughout your home. That will, of course, benefit not only your plants, but also the people residing in the home. However, this method will not increase the humidity level to the amount required by your non succulent plants. Misting : Another option is to mist your plants. Misting is frequently discouraged because the impact is short lived. In addition, water standing on your plant can promote diseases and/or the development of mold. Pebble Tray : To increase humidity, pots containing your plants can be placed on a one-to-two-inch-deep tray filled with pebbles. Add water to the tray. As the water evaporates, it provides humidity for the plant. Grouping plants : Plants located in close proximity to each other can benefit each other. The moisture released by the leaves of the plants can increase the humidity around the group of plants. Use of a bell jar cover : A bell jar placed over a plant can trap the moisture created by water evaporating from the soil and from moisture released by the plant’s leaves. Placement over heat source : If your home has a radiator, floor vents, or a wood stove these can be helpful. By placing plants over these objects, the heat can create the humidity needed by them. Locating plants in a kitchen or bathroom: The two rooms with the most humidity in the house are the kitchen and bathroom. So, if the light available in those rooms is adequate, they are the best location for plants requiring added humidity. So, to promote the health of your house plants, make sure your plants are receiving the right type light, water, fertilizer and soil composition. But don’t forget your plants’ need for necessary air humidity around them. Try the tips in this article for happy houseplants. https://lancaster.unl.edu/houseplants-humidity#:~:text=Grouping plants together can also, pocket of slightly higher humidity. Photo credit: Linda Stein (1-4)

< Back Carrots and Parsnips Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your garden for eating in the winter. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. Learn more about how to grow and enjoy these healthy and tasty vegetables. Julie Harris, Master Gardeners Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your gardens for eating in the winter by pickling, boiling, blanching or freezing. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. There are many carrot varieties. When choosing them, consider size (long, thin carrots versus short, stubby ones) and the ultimate use, such as a great crunch when freshly picked, long term storage use, or cooking. Parsnips are white but look like carrots in that they are generally long and they taper from a thick top to a narrow end. Carrots and parsnips love sandy, loam soil. Unlike parsnips, carrots will grow in heavier clay soil as long as it is well-drained and not compacted. Soil can be improved by adding well-rotted manure or compost in the spring or fall. Always sow carrot or parsnip seeds directly into garden; do not start them in pots. Their long taproots begin to develop early and transplanting damages their root growth. The seeds are tiny and can be difficult to handle. Some people choose to buy carrot seed in a “tape” format or in pellets. Seed tape is more expensive but may yield better results because less thinning is required. Minnesota gardeners can begin to plant carrots directly into garden soil beginning April 15 and parsnips beginning May 1. For a continuous supply, one can plant sets of seeds 2 or 3 weeks apart. When the seedlings are 3-4 inches tall, the plants need to be thinned to allow roots to develop. Most importantly, they need consistent watering to avoid bitter, misshapen or undersized roots. Carrots can be harvested when they get to useable size but be sure to water the day before harvesting or after a rain to ensure root hydration. Make sure to loosen the soil around the carrot before pulling them out to avoid breaking the root. Remove the greens and clean the roots before eating or storing. Parsnips should remain in the ground until late fall and even into later spring. Cold soil temperatures increase the sugar content, so the later you dig out the roots, the sweeter they will be. Parsnips are best stored in a root cellar. Both vegetables are loaded with vitamins and nutrients that are good for you. Carrots have vitamin A and beta-carotene which may lower diabetes risk. They also contain calcium and vitamin K which is for good for bone health. Carrots are also known for their fiber which helps keep blood sugar levels under control. Parsnips are loaded with vitamin K and magnesium, and also contain fiber and antioxidants. The two vegetables have distinctive flavors. The parsnip has an almost spicey flavor, reminiscent of nutmeg and cinnamon, whereas the carrot has a flavor that is closer to that of winter squash. Carrots can be eaten raw or cooked but parsnips are generally eaten cooks. Parsnips are generally sweeter than carrots and, in fact, were used as a sweetener before cane sugar was available. The bottom line - carrots and parsnips are nutritious and delicious! References: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-carrots-and-parsnips#diseases-3180361 https://www.organicauthority.com/eco-chic-table/carrots-vs-parsnips-whats-difference . Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Fritillarias Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener October is a great month to plant bulbs for your spring garden. Tulips, crocuses and daffodils are well-known lovely spring bulb plants. But why not try something new and different? Read this article to learn about the Fritillaria, a unique spring blooming plant that grows well in Minnesota. Change it up with this spectacular spring plant. If you like to grow unusual flowers, consider Fritillaria (Genus Fritallaria ). They are unique spring blooming flowers that are part of the lily (Lilaeae) family. According to the Chicago Botanical Garden, “In a world awash with crocuses, daffodils, and early tulips, we can easily forget there are other bulbs in the world. But you'll always remember the first time you encounter a crown imperial Fritillaria imperialis. On a stalk up to 3 feet tall, a flashy cluster of orange bells is surmounted by an odd-looking topknot of green leaves. As if Dr. Seuss had drawn it, the fritillary may be quirky, but it is certainly spectacular.” Fritllaria imperialis You may be wondering why we’d be writing about a spring blooming flower in the fall. Fritillaria, like tulips, crocus, and hyacinth are bulbs that need to be planted the fall. Some varieties are native to European grassy flood plains and meadows. Fritillaria grow from southern England to Russia. Other varieties of Fritillaria are native to Western Asia and part of the Middle East. While they may not be as well-known as tulips and daffodils, they have been cultivated for centuries. Mainly grown in ornamental garden settings, records show fritillaria were grown in Elizabethan gardens as early as 1572. There are over 140 types of fritillaria (Kiana, 2017), however, not all varieties can be grown in Minnesota. “Crown of Thorns” (Fritillaria imperialis) and “guinea hen” (Fritillaria meleagris) are two varieties that grow well in Zones 4-8, so they will do well in our current Zone 5 climate. The Crown of Thorns fritillaria are tall (up to 3 feet) and have blooms in a ring that are bell-shaped and hang down. The blooms can be yellow, red, or orange. Crown of Thorns is very fragrant. Fritillaria do require full sun and excellent drainage. The ‘guinea fowl’ (Fritillaria meleagris means spotted like a guinea fowl) appears in mid-spring. It is also called checkered lily or snake’s head. The foliage twists, resembling little snakes, and may lay on the ground or be upright, standing 6-12 inches. One or two flowers emerge on an arching stem, hanging down similar to a bell. This variety has a checkered like appearance and colors include maroons, purples, and pinks. The colors are more muted than other varieties. This Fritillaria has no odor, has some shade tolerance, and prefers moist, well-drained soil. Fritillaria meleagris Fritillaria’s bulbs are called non-tunicate and have fleshy outer scales. They lack the protective papery outer skin that tulips and onions have, which helps them maintain moisture. That means fritillaria bulbs can dry out quickly. The bulbs have a hollow area on the top of the bulb, which allows water to pool and puts them at risk of rotting. To avoid that, Fritillaria bulbs should be planted on their side with their roots toward the earth. This differs from the usual bulb planting practice of making sure the pointed side is facing up. Plant Fritillaria bulbs to a depth that is about three times the height of the bulb. Bigger bulbs should be planted deeper than smaller bulbs. Add organic material such as compost, well-rotted manure, or mulch to the bottom of the hole. In addition to the bulbs being prone to rotting, Fritillaria can suffer from Leaf spot, rust, and mosaic virus. Guinea hen (Fritallaria meleagris) bulbs (non-tunicated) Plant on side A bonus feature of Fritillaria meleagris (guinea hen) bulbs is they can be forced without having to be chilled. Plant the bulbs in a pot and keep them at 50-60 degrees for several weeks. Plant something different in your garden this year and look forward to a beautiful display in the spring! References https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/guinea-hen-flower-fritillaria-meleagris/ https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/plant-spring-blooming-bulbs-fall-years-low-maintenance-color https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/fritillaria-imperialis/ https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=q720 https://www.chicagobotanic.org/plantinfo/smartgardener/fritillaria Mahmoud Kiani, Shirin Mohammadi, Alireza Babaei, Fatemeh Sefidkon, Mohamad Reza Naghavi, Mojtaba Ranjbar, Seyed Ali Razavi, Keramatollah Saeidi, Hadi Jafari, Davoud Asgari, Daniel Potter, Iran supports a great share of biodiversity and floristic endemism for Fritillaria spp. (Liliaceae): A review, Plant Diversity, Volume 39, Issue 5, 2017, Pages 245-262, ISSN 2468-2659, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pld.2017.09.002 . ( https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2468265917300513 ) Photo Credits: Publicdomainpictures.net (1), University of Wisconsin Extension (2-3)

< Back Swiss Chard – It’s Like Spinach, But It’s Not Swiss Chard (Chard) is a dark leafy green that can be used raw or cooked. It also freezes well for winter consumption. Chard can be planted any time during the growing season and re-blooms after harvesting. Not only is it nutritious but it looks beautiful in the garden, as well. Read this article to learn why and how to grow Swiss Chard in your garden. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Swiss Chard (Chard) is in the beet family, ( Beta vulgaris) and is very easy to grow. Like spinach, you can direct seed Chard, however, you will want to wait until all danger of frost is past. Unlike spinach, Chard is not sensitive to day length and does not bolt when the days get longer and it gets hot in early summer. Very rarely, if planted too early while temperatures are cold or cool, Chard may bolt. You only need to plant Chard once in the spring and it will keep re-growing after each harvest through Fall. While spinach will regrow if baby leaves are harvested early, it will eventually bolt in early summer. You do not have to plant or replant Chard for a fall crop (which you may want to consider in late August for spinach) and if you miss getting it planted in spring, you can plant it at any time during the growing season. So, if you haven’t planted it yet, go ahead and get some Chard seeds sown. Swiss Chard seedlings You will want to manage the weeds around Chard to prevent it from having to compete for water and nutrients. Keep it regularly watered. If drought conditions exist, leaf growth will slow. As soon as it has sufficient water again, it will resume growing. To harvest Chard, you can pick the leaves at varying sizes based on your preference. Some people will cut the leaves just above the base of the plant (the crown). The leaves do pick up dirt in the stalks and leaves, so you will want to wash it well to avoid a gritty bite. Simply wash well in cool water. You will be able to harvest Chard into the Fall months, sometimes even after the first snowfall. Chard freezes well, requiring simple blanching in boiling water, followed by a cool water bath, and bagging it in a freezer bag. Nutritionally, Swiss Chard provides many important nutrients such as Vitamin K and Vitamin A. It also provides Vitamin C and magnesium and contains antioxidants including beta-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin. It is low in carbohydrates and is low calorie (depending upon how it is cooked). Some studies suggest it can help with blood sugar control, support heart health, reduce blood pressure, and other health benefits. Some articles label it a ‘superfood’. On top of all that goodness, Chard can be a lovely addition to a landscape as the stalks and leaf veins range in color from bright white (Fordhook most common variety), to yellow, gold, green, orange, pink, red, or striped. Some varieties are: “Bright Lights”, “Rainbow”, “Rhubarb”, “Neon Lights”. Paired with annual or perennial flowers, the green, bronze, or purple leaves with their showy veins and stalks add texture and color to containers and flower gardens. Consider adding Swiss Chard to your garden for both its beauty and nutritional values! References: Growing spinach and swiss chard in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-spinach-and-swiss-chard#harvest-and-storage-390412 Swiss Chard https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/swiss-chard/ Healthline: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/swiss-chard Health benefits of swiss chard: https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/284103 Allergy Associates of LaCrosse: https://lacrosseallergy.com/resources/diet-and-nutrition-counseling/superfoods/swiss-chard/ Photo Credits: University of Delaware (1), University of Minnesota Extension, Gardening: Swiss Chard (2), University of Wisconsin Extension (3,4,5,6)

< Back Foraging 101 Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement. Here are some suggestions on how to get started. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Morel mushrooms, the state mushroom of Minnesota, are a prized commodity for top restaurant chefs and home cooks alike. Rarely found in a supermarket, these mushrooms often run over $150 per pound when purchased online. A more frugal solution is simply foraging for the mushrooms—the cost of morels is now only your time. Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement, the “gatherer” portion of the hunter-gatherer society. It requires a connection to the land, a knowledge of what is edible, where certain plants can be found, and when in the year they will be ready for consumption. Once necessary for human survival, foraging is now made superfluous by grocery stores and food manufacturing. Today foraging is a choice, and its popularity is growing each year. For gardeners, foraging is an extension of the practice in the garden. Often what is foraged cannot be cultivated in a home garden—particularly for wild mushrooms, but also for wild onions or other plants. Learning the forageable plants near home, as well as their life cycles, opens up all sorts of possibilities for new plants to eat. Frequently Asked Questions Q: What can I forage in Minnesota? A: Everything from mushrooms and wild fruit to nuts, evergreens, leafy greens, and even cattails. Q: Is foraging just for food? A: No. You can also forage for natural specimens or even art supplies, as many plants and mushrooms such as lobster mushrooms and sumac are sources of dye. Q: Is it legal to forage in Minnesota? A: Sometimes! Double check your laws before taking anything from publicly owned land, and know if you are on national, state, or regional land. It is LEGAL to forage small quantities in MN State Parks as long as it is for home use, not to be sold for a profit. It is ILLEGAL to forage in any Dakota County Regional Park. As for national land like national parks and national forests? The laws are different for each one. Look up rules specific to the national forest or park you want to forage in. Q: Once I have determined that I may legally forage, what’s the best practice for sustainability? A: Take less than 20% of what you find in the wild for most foraged items, and take less than 10% of what you find if it is particularly slow growing, like mosses or lichens. Q: Where can I learn more about foraging? A: A few excellent resources include Euall Gibbons’ 1962 book Stalking the Wild Asparagus , MN chef Alan Bergo’s website ForagerChef.com , and Bergo’s newest book The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora (2021). For more on foraging laws, see Baylen J. Linnekin’s article “Food Law Gone Wild: The Law of Foraging” (2018). https://ir.lawnet.fordham.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2740&context=ulj Photo credit: Kevin Miyazaki/Meredith (Creative Commons)(1)

< Back Top 3 Flowering and Edible Weeds Most of us view weeds as mere pests in the garden to be eradicated from our gardens. But some weeds have the redeeming virtue of being edible. In this article, Master Gardener Kristina Valle describes how three common weeds can be consumed and appreciated. Kristina Valle, Master Gardener “A weed is but an unloved flower,” – Ella Wheeler Wilcox. This year we welcomed a spring full of heavy rains that lasted days and quickly melted our towering snow mounds. This rain also gave many perennials and bulbs a much needed jump start to produce new growth on stems that may have been on the rabbits’ menu for most of the winter. While I did lose a few plants this winter, there were many that benefitted from a severe haircut and the early, and extra rain aided in providing the plants with the necessary support to recover and grow back quickly. Unfortunately, rain will help anything that is able to grow, including weeds. While most weeds are unwelcomed and take away some of the gardener’s enjoyment, eradicating them from our yard and gardens is a necessary part of the job, as we all know. But did you know that there are many weeds that can have a positive place in your life or rather, on your plate? This article will discuss the top 3 flowering and edible weeds that may already exist in your garden and that may alter your perception of their presence in your landscape. #1 – The Dandelion It’s early spring and POP! Bright yellow flowers appear and carpet many open spaces along roads and are sprinkled throughout our yard and gardens. As Minnesotan’s we appreciate the first sign of color after a cold and dull winter, but these flowering weeds are met with disdain as we know that our summer work has just begun. Instead of looking at these weeds negatively, we should really be thinking of all of their uses instead. All three parts of a dandelion are edible. The Flower The flower head can be incorporated into cookies, quiche, muffins and many other baked goods, adding a honey like flavor to any recipe. Another alternative is frying the petals as a fritter like you would for squash blossoms. The Leaves The leaves are simply greens and are versatile enough to be used in a sauté with pasta or even eggs. The Roots Looking for a coffee or tea alternative? Consider dandelion roots! Dandelion Root Tea is commonly available in most grocery stores, but you’ll need to put in a little more effort if you want to make some Dandelion Root Coffee. First, you’ll need to dry the roots in a food dehydrator, and then roast them in the oven until they are thoroughly dry. Afterwards, place the roots in water and bring to a boil, strain it, drink and enjoy! #2 – The Common Blue Violet While the dandelion is often one of the easiest weeds to identify, greater care must be taken for other edible weeds. The violet has heart shaped leaves and 5 petals. Unlike the dandelion, only the petals and leaves of the violet are edible so it is important to be sure you have a violet before you harvest. If you’ve been to a restaurant that garnishes dishes, or even cocktails with flowers, you may have eaten a violet. The visual appeal livens up whatever you’re serving and invites a touch of the season into whatever occasion you’re celebrating. If you’re feeling a little extra, consider freezing the petals in individual ice cubes to add a surprise to any cold drink during your next get together. #3 – The Clover Whenever I think of clover, I’m reminded of a scene in the Disney Movie “Bambi” where Thumper is feasting on and stuffing his cheeks full of delicious clover. Sure, bunnies love it, but we can enjoy it too! Similar to a dandelion, you can prepare the flower head as a fritter. The clover can also be added to pasta, salads and teas and can be easily identified by its pink-purple flower. It is best to boil the plant before eating it, which can be accomplished when cooking a pasta or making a tea, as the plant (excluding the flower) can be a little hard on the digestive system. Finally, have you considered creating a Bee Lawn? Need a cover crop? Your clover will be a benefit not only to your pollinators but to you as well! It is my hope that this article has at a minimum, piqued your curiosity about the volunteers that grace our gardens each year. If you are interested in foraging outside of your garden space for these weeds, onto public lands, do not harvest unless you can be sure that no pesticides have been used on the weeds. Always exercise caution when foraging and remember to limit your haul to only 10% so that the local wildlife is not negatively impacted by the removal of some beneficial plants. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Don’t Let Powdery Mildew Haunt You! Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Powdery mildew is a very common garden fungus. This fungus was even more prevalent last year when our abundant rainfall increased our summer humidity. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Read this very informative article to understand what powdery mildew is, how it affects plants, what you can do to prevent it and how to control it when it happens. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Remember how the weather affected your garden last year? Dakota County received an extra 4” to 5” of rain and the average temperature during the 2024 gardening season compared with the average for the previous 25 years. The extra rainfall increased humidity and helped produce an abundance of powdery mildew in many Minnesota gardens. If your garden plants suffered from powdery mildew, you are not alone. Powdery mildew is one of the most prevalent crop diseases in the world,,3 affecting hundreds of types of plants including many common garden vegetables and flowers. This article explores what you can do to reduce the chances of last year’s powdery mildew returning to haunt your garden this year. What is powdery mildew? Powdery mildew is a fungal disease stemming from several different pathogens that vary by host plant. Plants with early infections of powdery mildew may have yellow spots, dark blotches, discoloring and lesions on leaves, usually on the upper surface of newer leaves and lower leaves. The disease then progresses to include a ghostly-white, powder-like substance (image 1) on leaves and stems. If left unchecked, powdery mildew will quickly spread to cover the plant and wither the leaves and stems. The pathogen can spread from 10% of the leaves to 70% of the leaves in a week2. A severe infection will cause leaves to drop off and can significantly reduce fruit and flower production. The white spores of powdery mildew eventually mature into brown and black pinhead-sized spheres caed cleistothecia or chasmothecia (image 2). Cleistothecia will survive the winter and release new powdery mildew spores in the spring. ,,10 Powdery mildew fungal spores infect only plants’ surface structures to take up nutrients and do not invade interior plant tissues. Therefore, it is rare that powdery mildew kills a plant but the plant may appear to be decimated. 2,10 Minnesota weather and powdery mildew. Powdery mildew requires humidity (but not necessarily the presence of water on the leaves) for spore germination. Humidity refers to the amount of water vapor in the air. Humidity will increase around plants when the ground around the plants is wet and ground moisture steams into the air. Variable relative humidity during the garden season will help promote powdery mildew. Relative humidity refers to the ratio of water vapor in the air versus the maximum water vapor possible in the air at a specific temperature. The maximum water vapor level is lower at lower temperatures. Therefore, for a fixed humidity level, relative humidity rises as the temperature falls. High relative humidity stimulates powdery mildew fungal reproduction while low relative humidity helps disperse fungal spores. Although powdery mildew requires humidity, the disease does not flourish in cool, rainy conditions.5 In fact, extended rainfall can help wash powdery mildew spores off leaves, inhibit germination and potentially kill powdery mildew spores. Powdery mildew spreads most rapidly in warm, cloudy12 weather (60o-80o F) and the spread decelerates in cool and hot weather.5 Note that leaf temperatures on sunny days are warmer than the surrounding air temperatures and leaf temperatures above 95o F are fatal to some (if not all) powdery mildews.2,4 All of the weather preferences mentioned above mean that powdery mildew thrives when days are warm and relatively dry (spreads spores) while nights are warm and humid (germinates spores).5 Unfortunately, this recipe aligns with Minnesota summer conditions making powdery mildew a frequent pathogen in our gardens. Prevent: what to do before a powdery mildew outbreak. While you cannot control the weather, you can minimize garden conditions that encourage powdery mildew. Prevention of powdery mildew should be the primary focus of gardeners because the disease is very difficult to eradicate once the disease is established in a garden.5 Frequently examine leaves and stems for a potential powdery mildew outbreak since early detection and action are critical to reducing the spread of the disease.5,12 Choose sunnier garden spots , when possible, for plant types that are more susceptible to powdery mildew since powdery mildew will grow more in shaded areas. Highly susceptible garden plants include apples, bee balm, begonias, columbine, cucumbers, grapes, lilacs, peas, peonies, phlox, potatoes, rhododendron, roses, rudbeckia, squash and zinnias.6,,,10,12 Increase airflow around plants to help reduce humidity and reduce moisture on plant leaves. Air flow will improve when you thin out plants, pull weeds, prune perennials, stake or trellis plants, and keep a space between plants and solid structures (e.g. keep plants 8”-12” from buildings).3,5,10,11 Avoid over-watering of plants , especially in areas with slow draining soil. Water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves, and water early in the morning to give the plants time to dry out before night fall.3 Plant garden varietals resistant to powdery mildew .5,12 Garden catalogs, seed packets and garden stores should provide information on the disease-resistant characteristics of plants.10,11 In addition, Cornell University provides a database of disease-resistant vegetable varietals. For example, Cornell reports that Avalanche snow peas and Cascadia snap peas are resistant to powdery mildew. Cornell’s 2025 information is based on 2018-22 data and should be confirmed, if possible, with plant-specific information for the current growing season. powdery mildew on Ninebark Control: what to do during a powdery mildew outbreak. If you identify powdery mildew in your garden, you should follow all the powdery mildew prevention recommendations and also take the following actions to help control the outbreak. It is important to act quickly when you diagnose powdery mildew in the garden since the pathogen spreads so rapidly. Trim off infected plant leaves and stems and remove the debris from the garden. Consider removing the entire plant if the infection has progressed significantly or if nearby plants are at risk of becoming infected.5,11 Trim off leaves near the ground and newer leaves and stems of the infected plants. Newer leaves are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Avoid fertilizing late in the season which encourages new plant growth.3,10 Sterilize tools that were used to trim plants infected with powdery mildew before using the tools on healthy plants. Tolerate small outbreaks of powdery mildew. The best management course may be tolerance of powdery mildew when the plant is beyond peak production and surrounding plants are not at risk. You may want to harvest full-grown pumpkins or squash in this situation to avoid powdery mildew attacking the fruit. Pumpkins and squash should last a couple of months if stored in a cool, dark spot after harvesting.11 Fungicides should only be used as a last resort since fungicides can harm both plants and insects.5 There are many fungicides that people have applied in attempts to control powdery mildew including milk, garlic, baking soda, neem oil, horticultural oils, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur and copper. Before choosing a fungicide, be sure to understand if the fungicide is a protectant (e.g. sulfur) or eradicant (e.g. oils) fungicide. Protectant fungicides only work if applied prior to a powdery mildew outbreak and usually require repeat applications. Eradicant fungicides work best if applied after a powdery mildew outbreak but before the outbreak becomes severe. Fungicides will not eliminate powdery mildew after the majority of leaves are infected.10 Be sure to follow any instructions provided on the fungicide packaging.3,6 There are a few specific situations where fungicides should be avoided even though powdery mildew is present in the garden. Fungicides should not be applied to late-season powdery mildew outbreaks when the autumnal leaves are close to dropping since the infection is not as harmful to the plant at that point.8 Fungicides should also not be applied to infected annual flowers or low-value perennial flowers since the fungicides can kill pollinators.10 Note that supporting research is very limited with regards to the efficacy of home remedies (e.g. milk, garlic, baking soda) for powdery mildew prevention or eradication. In addition, preventive and control activities should always be completed regardless of whether or not fungicides are applied. Fungicides are rarely necessary., Minimize: what to do after a powdery mildew outbreak. powdery mildew on peony Powdery mildew can survive winter on both live plants and plant debris. Therefore, powdery mildew is likely to recur once it is in your garden unless you take precautions to control the disease. Autumn and spring clean-ups are critical to breaking the cycle of last year’s powdery mildew outbreak. All annuals that were infected should be pulled and removed from the garden, preferably in autumn but spring cleaning is acceptable. Perennials should be pruned to remove infected plant material and to increase air flow. In addition, any plant debris in and around infected plants should be collected and removed from the garden. Do not till infected plant material into the ground as powdery mildew will continue to live in the plant material. Infected refuse should be burned or composted by a commercial composter. Home composting does not get hot enough for long enough to kill powdery mildew.3,5 Powdery mildew requires plant material to thrive. Therefore, you should not need to treat or remove wood chips or soil from powdery mildew areas. However, if the wood chips appear moldy after a powdery mildew outbreak, you may want to remove the wood chips as a precautionary measure. Because powdery mildew pathogens vary by host plant type, rotating plants (i.e. do not put the same plant type in the same space as last year) is key to minimizing the recurrence of powdery mildew. The following table provides groupings of common garden plants that are affected by the same specific powdery mildew pathogen2. If you had one of the plants shown in a group in your garden last year and those plants were infected by powdery mildew, you should avoid planting any of the plants in the same group in the same spot in your garden this year. Note that some plants are included in multiple groups indicating that those plants may be impacted by more than one powdery mildew pathogen. Powdery Mildew Pathogen Plants Impacted by Specific Pathogen2 Erysiphe cichoracearum Cucumbers, endive, lettuce, melons, potato, pumpkin, squash Erysiphe cruciferarum Cole crops (e.g. broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower), radicchio, radishes, turnips Erysiphe lycopersici Tomatoes Erysiphe pisi Peas Erysiphe heraclei Carrots, parsley, parsnips Erysiphe polygoni Beets Leveillula taurica Artichoke, eggplant, peppers, tomatillos, tomatoes Sphaerotheca fuliginea Beans, black-eyed peas, cucurbits (pumpkins, gourds, squash), okra Photo Credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Michigan State University, http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late- (2), University of Minnesota (3), University of Minnesota, M. Grabowski (4) 1 National Centers for Environmental Information, May-September 2024 compared with May-September 1999-2023, http://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/monitoring/climate-at-a-glance/county/time-series/MN-037/tavg/5/9/1999-2024?base_prd=true&begbaseyear=1999&endbaseyear=2023 2 EOS (Earth Observing System) Data Analytics, “Powdery Mildew: Effective Prevention And Treatment”, http://eos.com/blog/powdery-mildew/#:~:text=Powdery%20mildew%20is%20among%20the,would%20kill%20most%20other%20fungi . 3 Colorado State University, “Powdery Mildews”, http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/powdery-mildews-2-902/ 4 Michigan State University, “Late-season control of powdery mildew in grapes”, Image 2 and content from http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late-season_control_of_powdery_mildew_in_grapes_focus_on_inoculum_managemen 5 Penn State, “Addressing Downy Mildew and Powdery Mildew in the Home Garden”, http://extension.psu.edu/addressing-downy-mildew-and-powdery-mildew-in-the-home-garden#:~:text=In%20some%20plants%2C%20such%20as,oily%20spot%20on%20the%20leaves.&text=Powdery%20mildew%20looks%20like%20flour,across%20the%20top%20of%20leaves . 6 University of California, Davis, “Powdery Mildew on Ornamentals”, http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/powdery-mildew-on-ornamentals/pest-notes/#gsc.tab=0 7 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=2289318 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=228931 8 Iowa State University, “Powdery Mildew- Ornamental plants”, http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/encyclopedia/powdery-mildew-ornamental-plants 9 Cornell University, “Disease Resistant Vegetable Varieties”, http://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties 10 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in the flower garden”, http://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/powdery-mildew-flower-garden#:~:text=How%20to%20identify%20powdery%20mildew,to%20red%20around%20the%20infection . 11 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in flowers and vining vegetables”, http://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/powdery-mildew-flowers-and-vining-vegetables 12 Oklahoma State University, “Pumpkin and Squash Diseases”, http://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/pumpkin-and-squash-diseases.html

< Back Junior Spring Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener CALLING ALL JUNIOR SPRING GARDEN DETECTIVES! Do you know a child who has wondered how we know it is finally spring in Minnesota? After the long, cold days of our Minnesota’s winter, every child eagerly awaits the arrival of warm breezes, extended daylight and splashable puddles of spring. Help that child become a Junior Spring Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of spring’s arrival. Calling all Junior Spring Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are to prove spring has arrived in Minnesota. Once the clues are known, pull on your rain boots and head outside to observe the evidence of spring revealed in plants, trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your senses of sight, hearing, touch, smell and taste, you can solve the mystery of whether or not spring is here. CLUES Have you ever noticed how plants and animals suddenly emerge outside seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? The clues for the sudden change to spring are based on the fact that every plant needs air, light, water, nutrients and usually soil. When the plants appear, so do animals and other creatures. With nutrients in the soil present, look for the three clues for the presence of spring: Air. As spring begins, the Minnesota air temperatures increase from a chilly March average of 40.6’ F to a pleasant 70.1’ F in May. The warm air in turn gently heats up the ground where plants have been hiding all winter. Light. Spring brings longer days allowing our yards to bask in much needed sunlight. Daylight increases by a total of approximately 2 hours from February to May. Water. A Minnesota spring means the start of more rainfall. The month of May averages 3.24 inches of rain, in comparison to February’s rainfall average of a mere .79 inches. EVIDENCE Head outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of spring: warmer air, longer days and a puddle or two to splash with your boots! What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged spring to arrive? Plants. The mild air temperatures, longer days and spring showers push plants to grow through the warmed soil to receive even more warmth and light. Look for spring flowers, such as tulips, daffodils, creeping phlox, to display their bright and colorful blooms. Trees. Trees and bushes bud out gradually to appear on branches. Some trees and bushes, like magnolias, lilacs and forsythia, burst open their blossoms for a showy display around your neighborhood. Creatures. The arrival of spring invites the creatures in your yard to return from fall migration to the south, emerge from safe winter spots or awake from hibernation. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, trek back north to join the Minnesota skies in the spring. Butterflies, like the monarch, take a long two stage journey north after wintering in Mexico. https://journeynorth.org/projects Other animals, insects and birds remained in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or hunkering down under brush and evergreens. Now, they are venturing out for food found in the newly grown seeds and plants and the worms wiggling around in the warmed soil. With the food sources plentiful and more protective places to live, birds and animals mate during late winter or early spring. By the time their babies are born, Minnesota spring is in full swing. SOLVE Want to prove that spring has sprung in your Minnesota yard or park? Use the worksheet below to observe for a week if the three clues of spring are present and then gather evidence to prove that spring is really here! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects No Mow May: https://beelab.umn.edu/no-mow-may Book recommendation: Goodbye Winter, Hello Spring by Kenard Pak is a beautifully illustrated children’s book exhibiting the season of winter slowly turning into spring. Borrow from the Dakota County Library ( ISBN: 9781250151728) or buy at Amazon CITATIONS https://cdn.agclassroom.org/mn/edu/garden/guide.pdf https://www.rssweather.com/climate/Minnesota/Minneapolis-St.Paul/ https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.minnesotanorthwoods.com/minnesota-is-for-the-birds-spring-bird-migration/ http://www.minnesotaseasons.com/Insects/monarch.html https://www.monarchnet.org/spring-migration-ecology https://journeynorth.org/projects https://beelab.umn.edu/no-mow-may JUNIOR SPRING GARDEN DETECTIVES For a week in May, observe whether the three spring clues are present and if there is enough evidence to show that spring has sprung. Use your senses of sight, hear, touch, smell and taste to collect the evidence. Sun Mon Tues Wed Thurs Fri Sat Clues Air Temp (mid day) Daylight (# hours between sunrise/set) Water/Rain **After completing the chart, ask if your findings show increased warmth, increased daylight time and some presence of rain (might be over a few weeks). If so, you know that spring is likely here in Minnesota. Collect evidence to support the spring clues, by heading outdoors to answer the following questions and using some of your senses: Do you see more birds, animals, butterflies and other creatures when you are outside? List what you see here. Do you hear birds chirping, animals chattering or insects buzzing when outside? Record what you hear here. Can you touch newly grown buds, leaves, blossoms and plants that have appeared in recent days/weeks? Jot down what you can touch. Can you smell the fragrances of new blossoms or new plants or the smell of the soil after a rainfall? Describe what you smell here. Do you see any creatures tasting the new buds, blossoms, seeds and leaves? Report what you observe here. Congratulations! You have solved the question of whether or not spring has arrived in Minnesota. You are now an official Junior Spring Garden Detective! Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3,4) & Book Jacket (5)