< Back April Gardening in Minnesota: Early Vegetables and Indigenous Crops Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener As spring arrives in Minnesota, eager gardeners can start planting cool-season vegetables outdoors. Despite our short growing season, there are many options for early crops that thrive in our zone’s climate. As spring arrives in Minnesota, eager gardeners can start planting cool-season vegetables outdoors. Despite our short growing season, there are many options for early crops that thrive in our zone’s climate. Read this article to learn what vegetables can be planted in April along with some tips to make sure the planting is successful. Cool-Season Vegetables In mid to late April, you can plant these hardy vegetables: Potatoes Onions Beets Carrots Leaf lettuce Spinach Peas Radishes Kohlrabi Turnips These crops can withstand cooler temperatures and even light frosts. For best results, wait until the soil is workable and not overly wet to prevent compaction. Indigenous Crops Consider adding these native plants to your garden: Wild leeks (ramps) Jerusalem artichokes Groundnuts Wild leeks These indigenous vegetables are well-adapted to Minnesota's climate and offer unique flavors and nutritional benefits. To prepare your soil for planting vegetables in early April in Minnesota Wait until the soil is workable. Test by squeezing a handful - if it crumbles rather than forming a ball, it's ready. Clean up winter debris from garden beds once the ground has thawed. Add 2 inches of compost or organic matter and work it into the top 6 inches of soil. This improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and increases water retention. For heavy clay soil, consider adding some sand to improve drainage. Test your soil pH and nutrient levels. Amend as needed based on test results. Loosen compacted soil using a broadfork or garden fork, being careful not to disturb soil structure. For cool-season crops like lettuce and peas, apply a light organic fertilizer to the top few inches of soil. Use raised beds or cold frames to warm the soil more quickly for earlier planting. Avoid overworking wet soil, as this can damage its structure. Wait for several days of temperatures in the 50s before thorough preparation. Gardening Tips for April in Minnesota Watch the weather: April can be unpredictable, so be prepared to protect plants from late frosts. Prepare the soil: Once the ground has thawed and dried sufficiently, add compost or organic matter to improve soil structure. Start seeds indoors: For crops like broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting outside. Use season extenders: Cold frames or hoop houses can help protect early plantings and extend your growing season. Clean up carefully: Remove winter debris slowly to protect overwintering pollinators. Wait for several days of temperatures in the 50s before thorough cleanup. By following these tips and choosing the right crops, Minnesota gardeners can get a head start on the growing season and enjoy fresh, homegrown produce earlier in the year. References: https://www.thompsonfamilyfarmmn.com/blog/2021/04/what-veggies-can-i-plant-in-april-in.html https://atthefarmwaconia.com/plants-and-planters/gardening-advice/cold-crops/ https://extension.umn.edu/news/spring-yard-and-garden-preparation https://northerngardener.org/april-garden-chores-a-careful-dance/ https://www.ramseymastergardeners.org/post/cold-hardy-vegetables-and-flowers-for-minnesota-s-short-spring https://www.jimwhitingnursery.com/garden-advice/spring-planting-tips-for-minnesota/ https://www.cbsnews.com/minnesota/news/spring-gardening-dos-and-donts-from-the-minnesota-landscape-arboretum/ https://malmborgsinc.com/blog/minnesota-gardening-guide-april/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-staple-vegetables-around-world-minnesota https://www.reddit.com/r/minnesota/comments/ua91q3/gardening_tips/ Photo credit: Itoldya test 1-getarchive (all creative commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Susan Maher, University of Wisconsin-Madison (3)

< Back Give Dandelion Another Chance Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener Not just a weed – dandelion is an edible plant worth your consideration as a culinary addition. Although, most of us spend time and products on eliminating dandelions from our yards, the truth is that dandelion is edible (so long as they have not been subjected to toxic chemicals) and can provide a tasty delight for your table. Read this article to learn more about edible dandelions and how you might enjoy them. Dandelion ( Taraxacum officinale ) is an indigenous plant native to the Midwest that has been used by Native American tribes for centuries. This versatile and nutritious herb is often overlooked as a “weed,” but it offers numerous culinary and medicinal benefits. Dandelions are herbaceous perennial plants characterized by their rosette of dark green leaves that can grow up to 12 inches long. The plant features one or more hollow, flowering stalks that can reach up to 15 inches in height. The bright yellow flowers are a common sight in disturbed areas such as lawns and roadside ditches. One of the most appealing aspects of dandelions is that all parts of the plant are edible and can be harvested throughout the year. The leaves are best collected in spring, while flowers and stems are ideal for harvesting in summer. The roots are typically gathered in fall. These parts can be used fresh, dried, or blanched and frozen for later use. Of course, when foraging for dandelions, it's crucial to avoid areas that may have been recently treated with pesticides or herbicides. Always ensure you're collecting from clean, unpolluted areas. Dandelions are particularly valued for their liver health benefits. They are rich in vitamins and minerals, making them a nutritious addition to various dishes. Here are two recipes that showcase the culinary potential of dandelions. Dandelion Greens Dandelion Greens Salad Ingredients: • 4 cups young dandelion leaves, washed and torn • 1/4 cup red onion, thinly sliced • 1/4 cup cherry tomatoes, halved • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar • 1 teaspoon honey • Salt and pepper to taste Instructions: • In a large bowl, combine dandelion leaves, red onion, and cherry tomatoes. • In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, apple cider vinegar, and honey. • Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to coat evenly. • Season with salt and pepper to taste. • Serve immediately and enjoy the fresh, slightly bitter flavor of the dandelion greens. Sautéed Dandelion Roots Ingredients: • 2 cups dandelion roots, cleaned and sliced • 2 tablespoons butter • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1 tablespoon lemon juice • Salt and pepper to taste Instructions: • Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. • Add minced garlic and sauté for 1 minute until fragrant. • Add sliced dandelion roots and cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender • Drizzle with lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. • Serve as a side dish or add to soups and stews for extra flavor and nutrition. Dandelions offer a sustainable and nutritious food source that connects us to the indigenous wisdom of the Midwest. By incorporating this often-overlooked plant into our diets, we can enjoy its health benefits while honoring the traditional knowledge of Native American tribes. Below are additional resources from the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/can-i-eat-weeds-my-backyard https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/weeds Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), fwww.foodista.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Aster and Hyssop – Pollinator Magnets Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the goals for many gardeners is to have plants blooming in the garden all season. With a little planning, Minnesota native plants can help you fulfill this challenge. But having blooms in your garden all season isn’t just aesthetically pleasing, blooming native flowers are a constant food source for pollinators. This article focuses on two late summer plants loved by pollinators - Asters and Hyssops. Asters Smooth Aster The New England Aster is a common plant for Zone 4. Flowers are lavender to violet and yellow centers 1-2” wide. Flowers bloom on the stem ends in late August through October. The plant flourishes in moist acidic soil. Mature plants have woody stems and fibrous roots. Asters are mostly maintenance free but some mature plants can become top heavy and require support. A general low nitrogen fertilizer will help reduce the green foliage growth and produce more blooms. Trimming buds in late May encourages the growth of a bushy plant that is more stable during heavy wind and rainstorms. Divide the plant every three years to encourage vigorous growth. There are several other native aster species to explore each with different characteristics. They range from tall branching plants to shrubs to ground covers. Flowers are blue to violet or white. Some native aster species are: Purple Dome- Dwarf grows 18-24”, deep purple flowers in late summer Heath aster- Native to MN prairies and woodland edges, compact Smooth Aster – blue-violet flowers on 2-3’ stems, late summer Sky Blue Aster – similar to Smooth Aster but likes dry, sunny site Heart-Leaved Aster - Native to SE MN with white to sky-blue flowers Calico Aster – shade plant with small white flowers and 2-3 tall Aromatic Aster - Native to SE MN. More drought tolerant, late bloomer Big Leaf Aster – shady groundcover with large leaves and tall white flowers Check out this article in Northern Gardener for more information about these asters. Companion plants are goldenrod, grasses, oxeye, obedient plant, and showy tick trefoil. The combinations create a colorful late season pollinator garden. Asters are a colorful bloom in late summer and a critical fresh food source for migrating pollinators. Hyssops Blue Giant Hyssop Minnesota native hyssops (Agastache Foeniculum) are another late summer bloomer and fall pollinator. All plants are native to dry areas throughout Minnesota. Hyssops bloom in late summer-fall and are another valuable nectar source for bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. Anise hyssop, also known as Blue Giant Hyssop or Lavender Hyssop is a pollinator magnet beloved by bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and moths. They have light blue-violet tubular flowers on 2-4’stems. They will grow in full sun to part shade and in dry fields and bloom throughout the summer. This plant is also deer resistant. Hyssop is a lovely addition to the urban garden. The attractive light green lance shaped leaves set the plant apart from other zone 4-8 perennials. All hyssops self-sow but the volunteer plants are easily pulled. Hyssop will grow in a perennial garden or border planting in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil. Hyssop is an herb. Anise hyssop’s scented leaves can be harvested for tea, for salads, and other drinks. A member of the Lemnaceae family, hyssop is a shrub that is also native to SE Europe, Middle East and the region around the Caspian Sea. It has an interesting herbal medicinal history being used as an antiseptic, cough reliever, expectorant, and abortive during medieval time. Other hyssop cultivars include: Golden jubilee- gold-colored leaves & is 20” tall. Alba and snowspire- white-flower spikes on top of 36” stems. Companions to hyssop include goldenrod, black-eyed Susan, and coneflower. Native asters and hyssops are not only a beautiful addition to any garden, they are an essential food source for pollinators; particularly late in the summer season. Sources: ext.umn.edu/native-plants www.webmed.com Steiner, Lynn, D. Landscaping with native plants of Minnesota. MBI Publishing, China, 2005 Northern Gardener Anise Hyssop and Asters Photo Credits: Northern Gardener, Benjamin Vogt (1), Minnesota Wildflowers, Katy Chayka

< Back Dividing Irises and Peonies Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Intern Now that the Peony and Iris blossoms are gone for the season it's the perfect time to dig and divide the crowded plants. This article will help you prepare these plants for next year's season of beautiful blooms. The dog days of summer are upon us. It’s a great time to enjoy the fruits of your labors by harvesting fruits and veggies you have meticulously tended. Or maybe your garden presents a feast for your eyes, exploding with color or calming the senses with cool and shady textures. Before you get too comfortable sitting back and taking it all in, now is the perfect time to dig in and divide your crowded peonies and irises as their showy blossoms have faded away until next year. Dividing Irises The US Forest Service tells us there are approximately 280 species of irises in the world; this article will focus on the bearded iris. It is undeniably a popular choice among gardeners and it’s no wonder because of the rainbow of colors they provide in the garden. In fact, the origin of their name can be traced back to Greek mythology where Iris was the messenger traveling on a rainbow between the heavens and earth, thus the meaning of the name Iris is rainbow. Author Madison Moulton, a historian and political scientist, writes that cultivation of the iris plant can be traced back 2000 years to ancient Egypt. Throughout the centuries, it became a royal symbol, making its appearance on royal banners and coats of arms as the fleur-de-lis. In more recent times, the bearded iris, or Iris germanica, was named the state flower of Tennessee, and the fleur-de-lis is also the symbol of New Orleans. Now that you know the history of this garden beauty, it’s time to learn about how to divide this noble plant to keep it healthy and blooming in your garden for years to come. The University of Illinois Extension reminds us that the hundreds of species of irises can be separated into two groups – rhizomatous and bulbous. The bulbous irises are planted in the fall along with other fall planted bulbs. The bearded iris, however, falls into the group of rhizomes. Rhizomes are underground stems that store food for the plant. The University of Minnesota Extension points out that during August, irises tend to go dormant, making it the perfect time to divide them. As irises mature, rhizomes keep producing more and more rhizomes and crowd themselves out. Benefits of regular division every three to five years include more profuse flowering, and it helps prevent problems like iris borer and soft rot. The University of Illinois Extension suggests dividing that often, especially if your iris patch is producing noticeably fewer blooms. Using a shovel or pitchfork, carefully lift the plants out of the soil. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension offers the tip to water the ground thoroughly the day before if the soil is particularly dry to make lifting the plants easier. If possible, try to lift an entire clump and divide the rhizomes once you have lifted it and shaken or washed off the soil to inspect the rhizomes. If you notice any soft spots on the rhizomes or dark streaks on the leaves, iris borers are probably to blame. Extract and kill any caterpillars you find and use a sharp, clean knife or shears to cuts away any damaged parts. Any soft, smelly, or rotted material should be destroyed rather than placing it in the compost. As Penn State Extension suggests, you can probably break apart the rhizomes with your hands, but if you need to use a knife, it is a good idea to dip it in a 10% bleach and water solution after each cut. The University of Wisconsin-Madison tells us to make sure each new plant division has a firm rhizome, is light-colored, at least 3 inches long with healthy roots, and has a fan of leaves. Penn State Extension adds that a good rhizome should be about as thick as your thumb. While dividing your iris, it is recommended you cut back the leaves to about a third of their height. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension notes that this makes the plants easier to work with and helps reduce transpiration while the plant becomes reestablished. Using clean shears works fine for this step. Now it is time to plant! Penn State Extension instructs us to dig a shallow hole 10 inches across by 4 inches deep and to build up a small mound of soil in the center. Set the rhizome on the mound with the roots cascading down the mound into the hole. Fill the hole with dirt leaving the top of the rhizome just visible. A common mistake is to plant irises too deep. Penn State Extension also recommends that for the most attractive display, plant single rhizomes or groups of three, 12 to 18 inches apart, with the fans of leaves all facing the same direction. Water thoroughly and do not add mulch to avoid rot. Dividing Peonies Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong once sang, “Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off” when they couldn’t agree if it was a tomato or tomahto or potato or potahto. Here is a question for you: Do you call it a pee-uh-nee or pee-o-nee? According to dictionary.com , the correct pronunciation is… pee-uh-nee. With that settled, let’s learn about dividing peonies. Unlike irises that thrive from frequent divisions, it is said that a peony plant left in the garden may well outlive the gardener! Peonies can go 50 to even 100 years without needing to be divided. However, that does not mean a gardener should never divide a peony plant. Reasons for dividing may be to have more peonies for free, to share, or to bring along part of a peony if a gardener is moving yet wants to keep a plant that has been in the family for generations. Iowa State University Extension suggests that September is the best time to divide peonies. They recommend to first cut back the stems nearly to ground level. Next, carefully dig up the plant and then wash or shake the soil off the roots. Penn State Extension reminds us to remove any rotted material. The University of Illinois Extension notes that if dividing a large mature plant, you may dig up just half of the plant at a time. Use a sharp knife to divide the tuberous main root, called the crown, so that each wedge includes three to five pink or white-colored buds, or eyes, and one to two large main roots so that it can gather enough energy to provide for next year’s growth. Dig a generous hole and plant the new clumps so that the three to five “pink eyes’ are pointed side up and one to two inches below ground level, and space the plants two to three feet apart. Fill the hole back up with soil. University of Illinois Extension recommends for best results to add about an inch of organic matter such as compost or peat along with an inch of topsoil to cover the pink or white eyes. Be sure to water regularly throughout the fall if it doesn’t rain. It is also a good idea to apply mulch before winter. By following these steps, you should have happy, healthy plants that will continue to provide you with beautiful flowers for years to come. Photos credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2, 3, 4), Lisa Olson (5), University of Pennsylvania Extension (6)

< Back Moving Houseplants Outdoors for a Summer Vacation Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener You have been enjoying your indoor plants during our long, cold winter. But soon it will be time to think about transitioning some of those plants outdoors. March might seem a bit early to think about moving your indoor plants to the outdoors but plants do require a transition time and warm weather will be here sooner than you think. There are many reasons that you might move your houseplants outdoors for the summer. But there are several things to consider to ensure that your plants flourish as a result of this move. As we plan our outdoor gardens, we consider which plants can survive in the different environments in our yards, taking into account the amount of sun and the type of soil. When we obtain plants for inside our homes, we are selecting plants that can survive in the environment inside our homes. These plants do not require full sun. But they can definitely benefit from a visit outdoors. Why would you want to bring your houseplants outdoors? Sun First of all, the plants can benefit from the stronger sun rays. The strength of the sun’s rays is significantly stronger outdoors even than the sun a plant receives when placed by a south-facing window. Easter Cactus moved outdoors bloomed for the first time Rain Secondly, the plants can benefit from rainfall. Slightly acidic ph is better for overall soil health and makes nutrients more available. Rain water generally has a ph between 5.0 and 5.5. (The acidity scale runs from 0 to 14 with lower levels indicating high acid levels and higher levels more alkaline.) The acidity of tap water varies among communities but generally has a ph between 6 and 8.5. So, the acidity level of rain can strengthen plants. Rainwater also contains nutrients that can benefit the plants themselves. In addition, rain can wash the dust and other particles that have been collected on your houseplants. They’re Pretty! Finally, houseplants can be used to beautify your deck or patio and eliminate or reduce the need to purchase plants that you will discard at the end of summer. The plants can also be incorporated into your garden, either directly in the ground or by placing the potted plant among your outdoor plants. Things to Think About Temperature : The move outdoors shouldn’t begin until the temperature is above 50 or 60 degrees. Phases : Make the move in phases. First move all your plants to a shady area, even those plants that can benefit from stronger sunlight. Keep plants that prefer shade (those plants that weren’t kept near a south-facing window), in this location. Other plants should be moved to a sunny location over the course of a week or 10 days. Water : Plants do require a difference in care outdoors than indoors. First of all, plants grow more quickly during the summer months and this growth spurt will generally be intensified when plants are placed outdoors. Therefore, plants will require more water and more fertilizer. The amount of water and the frequency of watering will depend on the type of plant, the type of pot (clay pots are porous and therefore moisture will escape through the pots while water in plastic pots can only be absorbed in the soil and can only escape through drainage holes), and other factors such as the amount of rain and humidity. Water your plants on their schedule, not yours. Check to see if your plant needs watering by sticking a finger about ½ inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, water. Fertilizer : House plants should not be fertilized during the winter months. During those months when there is reduced light and temperature, they experience reduced growth. However, they will benefit from fertilizer during the summer months. This is particularly true if the plants have been moved outdoors. Be sure to use fertilizer that is labeled for indoor plants and follow the instructions on the package regarding the amount and frequency of application. Too much fertilizer can result in a buildup of salts and excessive, leggy growth. Repotting : When outside you might want to repot those plants that have become root-bound so you won’t create a mess indoors. Some signs that your plant may need repotting include, roots growing through the drainage holes, the plant becoming top-heavy, or the plant growing slower than in the past. When transplanting to another pot, the new pot should only be 1-2 inches larger than the original pot. The Negatives Keep in mind things that might negatively impact your plants. Large rainfalls and heavy winds might have adverse effects on plants. Remember to consider the amount of rainfall the plants experienced when deciding when your plants need watering. Watch for heavy winds that might cause large or top-heavy plants to fall over. Watch for signs that your plants are sun-scorched. Indications of sun scorch are leaves that become brittle and turn yellow or brown. Generally, if caught early, you can remove the impacted leaves and move the plants to a shadier location. Watch for pests that might set up household on your plants or the pots holding your plants. Many of these pests don’t harm your plants, but you will want to eliminate them before moving your plants back indoors. Photo Credit: Carol Fuerstneau (1), Linda Stein (2, 3), Steve Greenstein (4)

< Back DIY Suet/Seed Feeders for our Feathered Friends BJ Hansell, Master Gardener As I write this, it’s nearly Halloween. Outside there is a flurry of activity. A multitude of birds including blue jays, cardinals, woodpeckers (both hairy & downy), house and gold finches, juncos, and my absolute favorites - chickadees, are flitting about. They voraciously attack and consume seeds and nuts in preparation for the rapidly approaching winter. Read this article to see how you and the child in your life can help our feathered friends. I have quite a variety of seeds, nuts, and suet feeders. But in December the kids are getting restless for something to do. The ever popular “I’m bored,” resonates through the house. I’m eager to have them take a break from screen time. How about crafting homemade bird feeders? There are several hands-on options for nearly any age to show their creativity. The projects tend to be a bit messy. But hey, when you’re a kid messy is GOOD. While we work on the feeders, we can discuss: o the different birds that hang out in the yard, o how to identify them o what they prefer to eat o where they sleep & seek shelter from the weather For example: About black-capped chickadees : o Males & Females look the same; a small gray bird with a black cap and throat patch. Tan sides & belly; white chest; small white wing marks. o Small Pointy beak o Seeds black oil sunflower, safflower; peanuts; mealworms o Cavity dweller, found in forests, woodlots, backyard nest box The recipes, supplies and instructions for making these birdfeeders appear at each of the listed sites. Song bird seed mix is available in most any grocery or home improvement store. Traditionally suet is made from rendered animal fat. The recipes here substitute shortening (Audubon) and gelatin (NWF). The pine cone feeders use peanut butter (Cornell). 1- Audubon Recipe , Materials are listed below the Video Demonstration: 2- NWF: Suet Ornaments (can use the Audubon Recipe): 3- Cornell Lab: Pine Cone Feeders DO NOT forget a source of water. Bon Appé-TWEET! Credit: https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Black-capped_Chickadee/overview# Photo credits: www.midgetmomma.com (All Creative Commons) (1), www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2,3)

< Back Identifying and Attracting Beneficial Insects Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Now that the plants in our gardens are starting to bloom, we are also seeing insects on those plants. Some of those insects are certainly pests but others are actually beneficial. We know how pollinators are beneficial insects - many of the foods we enjoy rely on pollinators for fruit and seed development. But how do we identify other insects that are beneficial to our gardens and landscapes in other ways? Read this article to find out! Now that the plants in our gardens are starting to bloom, we are also seeing insects on those plants. Some of those insects are certainly pests but others are actually beneficial. We know how pollinators are beneficial insects - many of the foods we enjoy rely on pollinators for fruit and seed development. But how do we identify other insects that are beneficial to our gardens and landscapes in other ways. Beneficial insects (at various stages in their life cycle and using multiple methods) can help manage the populations of insect pests like aphids. Some examples of beneficial insects include ground beetles, lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid flies and a variety of solitary and parasitoid wasps. Many of the recommendations for attracting pollinators to your garden—planting a variety of flowering plants, including native plants in your landscape or providing a water source/feature—are also true for encouraging beneficial insect visits. But beneficial insects need more than the aphids and larvae you want them to eliminate. They need pollen and nectar for energy and places to shelter and overwinter to encourage them to stay in your space. Here are several gardening strategies to attract and retain beneficial insects in your garden: Have an array of perennial and annual plants flowering consistently throughout the growing season. Leave some aphids on plants. Allow some plant litter to stay on the ground over winter. Limit or eliminate the use of pesticides. Certain plants also attract beneficial insects. In many cases, smaller flowers will attract smaller insects like syrphid flies. Some flowers commonly listed as attracting beneficial insects that do well in Minnesota gardens are: yarrow, dill, alyssum, cosmos, gem marigolds, clover, cinquefoils, fennel, lemon balm and milkweeds. For more ideas, check the internet for lists of plants that attract beneficial insects. Before adding any new plants to your yard in order to attract beneficial insects, check your local DNR list of invasive species to ensure there isn’t crossover. For example, common tansy and Queen Anne’s Lace are often listed as plants that will attract beneficial insects. But in Minnesota, both are considered noxious weeds and it is illegal to import, sell or transport them within the state. You can purchase many species of beneficial insects online. Before doing so, take a few things into consideration: Can you follow the release instructions exactly? Will you need to repeat the process? Insects often…fly away. Is the pest you are hoping to eliminate a serious problem? It can often be more sustainable to make your landscape more welcoming to beneficial insects than trying to repeatedly introduce species that have been ordered from other sources. For more information on specific beneficial insects, their life cycle and what they can do for your garden visit this U of MN Extension site. Take some time to learn more about the insects that you want to attract to your garden. Your plants will appreciate it! Photo Credit: Joanna Kapke (1,2,3)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.

< Back Seed Buying Do’s & Don’ts” Happy New Year! It’s time to pack up decorations, and pack-off the visiting relatives. Now is “me” time. Grab a “cuppa” your favorite beverage, snuggle into a throw, review your notes from last year’s growing season and begin perusing seed catalogs. This article provides suggestions about things to consider when purchasing seeds. BJ Hansell, Master Gardener Most every gardening-related resource online will advise you that the best time to order seeds is between the months of January and April. That is mostly because seed sellers publish their catalogs around the December holidays. Additionally, the orders should be arriving before planting time. Before completing a deep-dive into seed catalogs, checkout The Dakota County Seed Library that is maintained through a partnership between the Dakota County Library, Dakota County Library Foundation and the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners. It is located at the Farmington Library. If you are searching for a wonderful variety of seeds please avail yourself of this service. The collection includes Edibles, Flowers, Herbs and “Others.” Did I mention the seeds are FREE? FREE SEEDS!! Click on this link www.co.dakota.mn.us , enter “Seed Library” in the search box, then follow the resulting Seed Library link. There you can learn about the mission of the Seed Library, the list of current seed inventory and how to acquire seeds. Donors for this season include Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, and personal donations. The inventory will be updated during January & February 2024. We also operate an ongoing ‘ Seed Drive'. Everyone is encouraged to participate. We request heirloom varieties packaged for 2023 or later in the supplier’s original packet. Hybrid varieties and clearly labeled collected seeds may be added directly to one of our 'Share' drawers. This resource is especially useful if you do not want large quantities of particular seeds. As you begin collecting seeds, they should be stored in low-light and low-humidity environments. They should experience as little temperature fluctuation as possible. Photo storage boxes are a great example of one method for compact & organized seed storage. Here is a summary of 10 tips for buying seeds online and in catalogs. 1. Ask gardeners you trust to find out what companies they like and have had success with. A good source is a Dakota County Master Gardener. 2. Call the company and see how you like their responses to your questions. Do they have knowledgeable staff on hand to answer your gardening and planting questions? 3. How long have they been in business? Just because they’re new, doesn’t make them bad. But the companies that have been around a long time must be doing something right. 4. Are you looking for something specific? Some companies specialize in only certain plants while others are more generalist. If you’re looking for only certified organic, or heirloom for example, those companies are out there. Be aware there are plenty of specialty companies. 5. Don’t over buy . This is a common mistake. It is easy to be sucked into the pretty pictures and before you know it, you’ve purchased way more than you’ll have time to plant or that you’ll have room to grow. Partner with a fellow gardener to share large quantities at perhaps a better value. 6. How much are shipping costs? Sometimes it can be more than the seeds. Companies can vary a great deal here. Know the whole cost, not just the price of the seeds or plants. 7. Make sure the seeds you are buying are fresh and packaged for that year. Deeply discounted seeds may be out of date. Although still viable in many cases, they do begin to decline in their rate of germination success as they get older and/or stored improperly. Remember, you get what you pay for. 8. Know approximately how many seeds are in a pack. Some packs have more seeds than you’ll need, while others will surprise you at the small amount provided. It pays to inquire to save the disappointment of finding out you didn’t get enough. 9. Know if what you are ordering will grow in your zone and conditions. It is so easy to assume you’ll get results like those in the picture. In reality, without just the right conditions, your results could vary greatly. Take note of the updated 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map . 10. Don’t be afraid to try new things. You won’t blow your life’s savings on an order of seeds so if you’re feeling lucky, go for it. Experimenting is one of the best parts of gardening. Nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say. See you next month when another knowledgeable MG will share information on seed starting! Resource: https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/10-tips-for-buying-seeds-online-and-in-catalogs/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gearacres.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Why are Those Bugs Swarming Around My Front Door? Julie Harris, Master Gardener As the weather is growing cooler, you may be experiencing a mass of bugs swarming your outside walls and doors. As we get prepared for winter, the bugs that don’t die off, survive by burying themselves in the soil, or leaves. But there are a few who want very much to spend the winter inside your home. The “big three” offenders are boxelder bugs, Asian lady beetles, and brown marmorated stinkbugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed on sources in your yard. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. They are especially drawn to the part of your house that gets afternoon sun. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug These bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. While they are not generally harmful, they can be an annoyance. They don’t feed on wood or other building materials and they don’t spread disease to people or pets. However, Asian lady beetles sometimes bite when handled and they, along with the stinkbugs create a bad smell when stressed or crushed. Asian Lady Beetles The best way to manage these bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. Check window screens, broken seals around doors and windows. Don’t forget to look at the seals around wires, pipes, vents, soffits and fascias. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment although targeting these bugs is difficult. As they are not feeding while they are trying to invade your home, pesticides may not work. (Note that any use of pesticides must be done with utmost care as they carry some risk.) Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom or just crushing them. Note that vacuuming won’t kill the bugs, so they should be disposed of outside. These bugs generally do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. They are generally slow moving and can be eliminated fairly easily. In short, these bug invaders are big on the ICK scale but generally can be controlled without causing harm. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/temperatures-fall-home-invading-insects-come-knocking Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), University of Minnesota Extension, Susan Ellis, bugwood.org (2)

< Back Grow Pear Trees Successfully In Your Back Yard Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Pear trees can be just as easy if not easier to grow than apples! Find out how in this article. I am sorry to report that Partridges are a mostly ground-dwelling bird, so you’ll likely not see any in your trees. www.allaboutbirds.org Do partridges occur in pear trees? Around this time of year we do receive a spike in sightings of partridges in pear trees, although curiously there never seems to be more than one individual reported per pear tree. Both partridges and pear trees are Old World species that have been introduced into North America, which means that th Pears originated in central Asia and have spread around the world. They have been hybridized to survive in hardiness zones 4-8, although some can tolerate zone 3. The blossoms will die if there is a spring freeze of 24F°. Pear trees can be up to 40’ tall, but there are some semi-dwarfing rootstocks that will result in a 15-20’ tree. Most pears fruit on spurs. Spurs form on wood that is two years or older. Fruit buds are fat and furry, leaf buds are slender and smooth. Fruiting spur Pear trees will do reasonably well in a wide range of soil types, although they don’t like wet feet. Pear trees require full sunlight all day long. You will need two varieties of pears for optimum pollination. “Summer Crisp” and “Patton” work well together; both have a certain amount of disease resistance and are hardy here. Fire-blight is the most serious disease and should be pruned out to a minimum of 6” below the disease. The pests that can attack pear trees are rabbits and voles (winter bark damage), deer (browsing and antler rubbing). Japanese beetles feed on pear leaves, but not to damaging levels. This link includes planting instructions: https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-pears Pruning is just cuts and consequences. A plant can be pruned at any time of year – you’ll just get different consequences. Begin pruning a pear tree in late winter before the buds begin to swell. Earlier pruning encourages water sprouts and suckering in spring and summer and also increases the chances of winter injury to the pruning sites. Summer pruning of fruit trees controls excess growth on a tree by removing energy-wasting water sprouts. Summer is also a good time to remove leafy upper branches that excessively shade fruit on lower branches. https://extension.psu.edu/pruning-apples-and-pears-in-home-fruit-plantings A few weeks after pruning, new growth will be vigorous and can have very narrow crotch angles. To prevent this, you need to force the new shoots to a more horizontal growth pattern. If a limb is not spread, as in the picture to the left, a bark inclusion can develop, i.e. the bark of the trunk and the branch grow together. This weakens the branch and can be an entry point for disease. Weak branch angle with bark inclusion A wide-angled branch, results in a stronger branch that can carry future heavy crops. Limb spreaders improve the tree shape and form strong crotch angles. Young branches can be clothes pinned, tied or weighted down. Spreaders can be either short pieces of wood with sharpened nails driven into each end or sharpened metal rods. Spreaders should remain in place until the branch "stiffens up" (1-2 years). Strong branch angle The summer after the first winter pruning, remove any water sprouts that grow on a heavily pruned tree. Water sprouts grow around pruning cuts. If you use pruning shears, you never quite get the entire shoot. Instead, pull the shoots off the trunk and major side branches, shoots can be pulled off safely throughout the season as long as their bases remain tender and green. Heading cuts shorten a limb or shoot. This removes the terminal bud that normally stops shoot development from buds closer to the trunk. This also causes several shoots to develop near the cut, which results in a thicker, denser canopy and reduced light levels. A thinning cut removes an entire shoot or branch back to its point of origin. Thinning cuts do not induce excessive vigorous regrowth and will open the tree to allow more sun inside the interior. Harvest and Storage Pears should be harvested while they are still firm and green. Some pears rot from the inside out, if they ripen on the tree. For best results, find out the approximate maturity time for the cultivar, watch for a slight color change from a darker to a lighter shade of green, and check fruit size. Store mature pears in the refrigerator, then ripen at room temperature for up to a week before eating or canning. Pears bruise easily, so, handle carefully when picking and storing! https://extension.unh.edu/resource/growing-fruits-growing-pears-home-orchard-fact-sheet Happy growing and check out the many wonderful pear recipes found on the internet! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare

< Back Paper Poinsettias Here is a fun seasonal project for your Growing Sprout. Read on to find out how to make them and where poinsettias grow. It might surprise you! Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardeners Poinsettias are native to Mexico and Central America. The part we think of as the flower are actually a special leaf called a bract; the real flower is in the middle with the yellow part. The ASPCA lists it as poisonous to cats, but of course, ours won’t be! For the project you will need: 2 sheets of red paper 1 sheet of a darker or lighter red color 1 sheet of green paper A bit of yellow paper Scissors Glue Light weight cardboard such as a cereal box Pen Glitter (optional) First you will need to cut out two paper templates, one smaller than the other, and then cut out the cardboard templates. If your sprout is older, you can make the bracts fancier. Once you have the templates, your Sprout can trace them on the paper. They will need 8 red, and three green shapes of the larger bracts, and 8 shapes of the smaller contrasting color. Glue four of the larger bracts together, then layer four more at right angles to the first. Fold the smaller bracts in half lengthwise, don’t make the crease sharp. Older Sprouts can also fold the larger bracts. It’s a little harder to glue when you do this. They can experiment with having the folds be upside down relative to the smaller bracts. Glue in the same manner as the larger bracts. Add a little extra glue to hold the smaller bracts to the larger. Glue the three green bracts behind the large bracts, cut out and glue 3 small circles of the yellow paper to the center of the poinsettia and you’re done! Happy Holidays! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-11)