< Back Lilacs Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener It’s getting exciting out there! Spring has sprung, the snow has melted, and the rain is bringing us much needed moisture to help our lawns green up and our plants to bloom. One of the most anticipated early blooming shrubs are the fragrant lilacs which come in colors from white to pink to lavender. This article will tell you what you need to know about planting, pruning and some common lilac diseases. PLANTING There are several different varieties of lilacs which bloom at various times from April to mid-May, mid to late May, and May to September. They typically bloom for 10-14 days depending on the weather. Lilacs make great hedges, foundation plants and large borders. Once established they can live a very long time. Our lilac bushes lived for over 50+ years until we made the tough decision to remove them. Lilacs thrive in full sun and well drained soil high in organic matter. Too much shade reduces flowering and can increase powdery mildew. Proper spacing increases air circulation and helps prevent diseases. Two to three years after the plant is established, start fertilizing lilacs every few years with an all-purpose shrub fertilizer. New plantings grow fast when young but may take a few years to bloom. In order to ensure repeating blooms in the following year, prune lilacs immediately after blooming. This link will take you to a video from the University of Minnesota - Extension Morris on planting lilacs. DISEASES Lilacs are subject to several different diseases: · Fungal disease causes yellowing/browning of the leaves that will die back. · Lilac borers will cause sawdust, sap and frass (powdery refuse). For more information on lilac borers go to https://content.ces.nssu.edu (North Carolina Extension). · Verticillium Wilt is caused by two fungi and has no cure for this disease. · Lilac Pseudocercospora (leaf spot) . · Herbicide damage causes cupping/browning on one side of the plant and not the other. DISEASE MANAGEMENT Use proper plant care such as watering, mulching and fertilizing to help prevent disease. If you find lilac disease you can try various methods to help the shrub. You can try pruning the diseased areas out of the shrub. Remove the leaves that have fallen so they don’t keep reinfecting the shrub. Watch the plant the following year for permanent damage. If you are unsure what disease is plaguing your lilac shrub, you can send a sample to the U of M Plant Disease Clinic to be properly diagnosed. Another option, if the shrub disease is out of control, is to cut it down to the stump. Most likely, it will shoot regrowth. We did this to our backyard lilacs and the bushes came back beautifully. One last option, which we did with the assistance of a certified arborist, is to remove the diseased plants. We tried to prune out the dead and diseased branches but they looked horrible afterwards. So, we made the difficult decision to remove them all. Now on to replacing the big empty spot. Photo credits: University of Minnesota ( 1, 2, 3, 6, 7), City of Edmonton (4), Wisconsin Horticulture Extension (5)

< Back To Every Weed (Turn, Turn, Turn) There is a Season (Turn, Turn, Turn) Marjory Blare, Master Gardener As you get excited about the growing season really getting going, you may also be seeing weeds popping up amongst your more intentional plantings. Wondering what you can do to keep those weeds in check? Read on for information from Master Gardener Marjory Blare on identifying weeds and some ideas for managing them. Weed: a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth especially : one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants. It is late spring, and I stand looking with satisfaction at the bucket of prickly lettuce seedlings at my feet, but make the mistake of glancing back at the hillside of shrubs and perennials. With a wilting feeling, I start seeing the vast number of Purselane and Spotted Spurge seedlings. By mid-summer Lambs Quarters, Redroot Pigweed, and Ragweed (achoo!) will have germinated. I know that come early fall I will be seeing Horseweed and Pineapple-weed. Identifying weeds can give you information on how to get rid of them, which are invasive, which are edible and which ones toxic or irritating to humans and/or animals. Knowing which weeds you have can tell you if you have compacted soils, rich soils or soils deficient in various nutrients. They can be annual (come up every year from seed), perennial (overwintering roots), or biennial (weeds that form a basal rosette the first year and produce flowers and seeds the second year). Weeds commonly germinate in the spring, some germinate in the fall, and there are others that come up just when you think your flower beds, pathways and gravel drives are weed free. Then, oh dear, there are the ones that can germinate, set seed and germinate again! Here are a few weeds you might encounter. For more resources on identifying and managing weeds: If you have a plant and want to know if it's a weed, this UMN Extension link will help you. https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/ Here is the Extension site for lawn weeds and what to do about them. https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/lawn-weeds The DNR has this site to help you identify invasive weeds, and what to do about them, including reporting certain weeds to the DNR. https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/index.html Here is one link to edible weeds, but, look for the coming Buzz article on edible weeds. https://my.chicagobotanic.org/tag/edible-weeds/ Weeds of the Upper Midwest by Teresa Marrone This is a book highly recommended by Dakota County Master Gardener Sally Macnamara “I know a weed when I see it. Although identifying a weed is not strictly necessary, it can be satisfying to know the enemy.” - Marjory Blare Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,3,4,5) & istock.com/photos/common-purslane (2)

< Back Let Your Yard Take Flight with Bats Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Attract bats to my garden? Why would I want to do that? To understand why, you must read this fascinating article about the benefits of bats in the urban, suburban or rural garden. Learn more about how bats help to reduce the pesky mosquito population and benefit your garden soil. Learn how to attract local bat species and provide shelter for them. Beyond the benefits bats provide to our environment, they are interesting creatures as this article explains. If you want to reduce the insect pests in your garden or simply enjoy a more insect-free evening in your yard, consider gardening techniques that attract bats. Each Minnesota bat consumes about 1500 mosquito-sized insects each night, a meal equal to between 25% and 100% of the bats’ body weight. [1] Reduction in the mosquito population by bats has led to the reduction of mosquito-borne diseases, including the West Nile virus. Bats also come with the added benefit of natural, organic fertilizer – i.e. bat guano – that automatically helps fertilize your lawn and can be captured to help fertilize your garden. Beyond the gardening benefits of bats, bats devour enough insects every night to reduce agricultural pesticide use in the U.S., saving farmers about $3.7 billion dollars a year. In a similar fashion, bats eat forest insects that help preserve trees planted by the lumber industry [2]. In addition, bat research has led to advancements in navigational aids for the blind, use of sonar technologies and new medications (e.g. vampire bat saliva helps manage blood clots). [3] Read on to learn more about bats, gardening to attract bats and bat houses. Minnesota Bats (primary citation [1]) There are eight different bat species found in Minnesota, 42 species in the U.S. and over 1400 species around the world [4]. If you see a bat in Dakota County, you are likely observing a Big Brown Bat which is the most common bat species in Minnesota. Big Brown Bats are 4 to 6 inches in length and like most bats are very light, weighing 12 to 15 grams (less than 0.06 pounds). Their wingspan ranges from 12 to 14 inches in flight and they can often be seen flying 20-30 feet above ground near treetops. Big Brown Bats will swoop through the air and to the ground to capture their preferred meal of flying and ground beetles. However, Big Brown Bats are feeding generalists and will devour many insects including mosquitoes, flies, stink bugs, wasps, moths and leafhoppers. [5] Big Brown Bats have long golden-brown fur on their backs with lighter fur on their bellies. They also have large pointy snouts, bright eyes and large rounded ears (see image A). Big Brown Bats are prevalent in Dakota County because they have adapted to urban living and can often be found roosting in buildings and other man-made structures. Big Brown Bat Each pregnant Big Brown Bat has a baby (called a “pup”) in June or July and will nurse their pups for 4-5 weeks. Big Brown Bats hibernate from November through April and generally will not travel more than 50 miles from their summer roosts to their winter hibernation site. Big Brown Bats are the only known Minnesota species that can hibernate in buildings to survive the winter. Other Minnesota bat species must find a cave or other underground habitat or must migrate over winter. The other species of bat that you may encounter in Dakota County is the Little Brown Myotis, also known as the Little Brown Bat. Little Brown Bats have also adapted to urban areas and may be found in buildings and other man-made structures. Little Brown Bats are 3 to 4 inches in length and weigh 7 to 12 grams (less than 0.03 pounds). Their wingspan ranges from 8 to 11 inches in flight and they are often seen flying a few feet above water or near the top of bushes. Their preferred food is water insects like mayflies and midges. In addition, Little Brown Bats will eat mosquitoes, little flies, moths and beetles. [6] Little Brown Bat Little Brown Bats have short brown fur on their backs with lighter fur on their bellies. They also have small snouts, small eyes and pointed ears (see image B). Little Brown Bats hibernate in caves or mines and mate just prior to hibernation or during hibernation. Sperm is stored over the winter with female ovulation occurring just as the bats awake in the spring. Pups are born in May or June and are nursed for 3-4 weeks. Little Brown Bats will skim over the surface of water to drink or catch water insects. Therefore, proximity to water is important for Little Brown Bats. Little Brown Bats were the most prevalent bat in Minnesota but the species has been decimated by disease in recent years with a 90% population loss. The remaining species of Minnesota bats include the Eastern Red Bat, the Evening Bat, the Hoary Bat (Minnesota’s largest bat), the Northern Long-Eared Bat, the Silver-Haired Bat and the Tri-Colored Bat. It would be uncommon in Dakota County to observe any of these six species of Minnesota bats since they mostly live in forested areas and have not readily adapted to urban areas. Gardening to Attract Bats (primary citations [7]-[9]) Attracting bats to your yard starts by attracting the insects that bats eat, especially nocturnal insects. Moths may be the most well-known nocturnal insects and will be more prevalent in gardens that contain native plants with open blooms at night. Bee Balm, Evening Primrose, Goldenrod, Phlox, Purple Coneflower and Yarrow are good examples of native Minnesota flowers that have open blooms at night. A more comprehensive list of plants that attract moths has been supplied by the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation. [10] Gardeners may be leery about attracting moths because of the perceived damage that moths inflict on plants. Moths do not eat plants; moth larvae eat plants. You can reduce the damage that moth larvae cause to garden plants by planting milkweed and native grasses in a remote location where the grasses can provide food and shelter to the moth larvae. The University of Minnesota has created a list of native grasses and the insects that the grasses attract. [11] Many insects create their homes in dead tree branches and dead trees. Therefore, you can increase the insect population and attract bats by allowing dead tree wood to remain in your yard. To attract beneficial beetles that are the favorite of Big Brown Bats, maintain a compost pile, keep piles of leaves, plant taller grasses, stop mowing part of your lawn and plant clover which attracts beetles. A couple of simple things that all gardeners can do to attract beetles is to maintain a container of rotting sticks and dead leaves and/or a mound of dirt without plants where beetles can make their homes. [12] In addition to attracting insects, additional tips that can help attract bats to your yard include: Plant native, flowering vines at the base of walls or fences. The vining spaces serve as temporary protective bat roosts when bats are flying at night. Minimize use of pesticides which can poison the insects that bats eat. Avoid using treated lumber in your yard because the chemicals may be absorbed by bats that come in contact with the lumber. Keep cats out of your yard since they will hunt bats. Provide a large-surface water source for the bats if a natural water source is not available. Install a bat house. Access to bat guano is an extra benefit to having bats in your yard. Always wear gloves and a mask when handling bat guano and wash your hands and clothes after working with bat guano. Bat guano has an NPK of about 10-3-1 and is a longer lasting fertilizer that is not easily washed away with the rain. Using bat guano that you collect rather than buying bat guano fertilizer helps conserve bat populations since store-bought fertilizers generally require people to disrupt bat caves. You can differentiate between bat guano and droppings from other animals by squishing the poop and holding it up to a light. Bat guano will glitter due to the remains of hard insect shells that cannot be digested by bats. If the poop you find is dull, it is not bat guano. Moderate amounts of bat guano may be added to your compost pile and may accelerate the decomposition process. In addition, gardeners may sprinkle bat guano in the garden or make bat guano tea to spray on leaves to protect the plants from fungal diseases. You can make bat guano tea by wrapping ½ cup of bat guano in cheese cloth and letting the guano stew for three days in a gallon of water. Excess bat guano may be disposed of at The Recycling Zone in Eagan and should not be added to any curbside pickup bins. [13][14] Interesting Bat Facts and Myths Bats are the only mammal capable of true flight. [19] Bats can live to be over 30 years old in the wild but the average life expectancy is between 6 and 7 years. About 50% of bats die during their first winter. (a) Female bats typically have one baby per year with little reproductive decline as they age. Gestation time varies based on bat species, temperature and precipitation. Minnesota bat gestation times range from 40 to 70 days. (a) Some bats in warmer climates eat nectar, helping to pollinate plants such as agave which is critical in the production of tequila. There are also bat species that eat fruit, fish, frogs and lizards. [4][19] Bats do not drink the blood of humans. However, there are three species of vampire bats primarily found south of the U.S. that will bite animals such as livestock and lick their blood. [20] Brown bats use echolocation to detect objects up to 30 to 66 feet away. Bats are not blind and may use vision to see beyond their echolocation boundaries. [15] Bats do not sweat but will drink water, lick themselves, or sometimes urinate on themselves to cool off. [15] Bats may enter a state of “torpor” to conserve energy during cooler hours. Bats take 40 minutes on average to emerge from torpor and be able to fly, which puts bats at risk from predators or other negative disturbances during the torpor period. Torpor is different from hibernation in that torpor can last a few minutes to a few hours whereas hibernation can last the entire winter season. [21] Bats reduce their energy expenditure by 98% during hibernation, lowering their heart rate from 200-300 beats per minute to 20 beats per minute. [21] Bats prefer to fly where there is protective cover within 30 to 90 feet. Bats will rarely cross more than 300 feet of open space since it makes them vulnerable to night-flying predators such as owls. [15] Seeding a bat house with bat guano to attract bats is a myth and has not been proven to help attract bats to a new bat house. [16] Some bats will somersault in the air when approaching a roost in order to land up-side-down which is their normal position while roosting. [15] An estimated 200,000 to 500,000 bats are killed each year by wind turbines. This number is expected to grow as use of wind energy grows. Scientists do not fully understand why bats do not naturally avoid wind turbines. [4] Less than 0.5% of bats contract rabies each year, making rabies a rare disease among bats. [15] Rabies is even more rare in humans with fewer than 10 cases a year reported in the U.S. Humans may contract rabies if bitten or scratched by a rabid animal or directly exposed to fluids of a rabid animal. [22] Humans should avoid approaching bats and should never touch a bat without wearing gloves and possibly other protective clothing. As a precaution, pets should be vaccinated for rabies if bats live nearby. Bats are more closely related to humans than to mice. [19] Guidelines For Bat Houses (primary citation [15]) If this article has convinced you about the benefits of bats in your area, you may want to consider a bat house. A bat house may be beneficial if some natural habitat features exist and: the natural habitat is not sufficient to support the local bat population, or you are trying to increase the local bat population, or you plan to move bats out of a local building (never disturb bat roosts during March through August, the gestation and lactation months). Not all bat species will utilize bat houses but Minnesota’s Big Brown Bats and Little Brown Bats have been observed in bat houses. Generally, if a bat species is willing to live in a building, the species will also be willing to live in a bat house. Bats may occupy bat houses from early spring through early autumn. Bats do not overwinter in bat houses but instead find more suitable hibernation habitats (e.g. caves, mines, buildings) to protect themselves in winter. When considering a bat house, first assess the area for natural habitat that my attract bats. Natural bat habitats include a nearby body of water, large tree canopy cover for bat protection, sufficient sunlight to warm the roost and an abundance of flying insects. Bats naturally roost in tree crevices and cavities where tree rot, birds (e.g. woodpeckers) or other animals have created holes in the wood. Bats prefer roosting in live trees but will also roost in dead trees. Little Brown Bats will sometimes roost under peeling or loose tree bark. Bats may also roost in caves, mines and rock crevices. Bats require multiple roosting sites in an area because mothers and their pups roost separately from males and non-maternity females. In additions, multiple roosting sites are needed to accommodate microclimate changes – e.g. bats may move to a cooler site on hot days. Bats usually adopt a primary roost along with several secondary roosts and have been observed to switch roosts as often as every 2 to 3 days. However, mothers and babies will remain in a roost longer during the maternity and lactation periods and typically return to the same maternity roost year after year. If you install a bat house, will the bats come? Bats identify new roosts while foraging at night. Attracting bats to new bat houses will be more successful if bats are observed close to the planned bat house site before a house is installed. About 50% of urban bat houses and 60% of all bat houses are inhabited by bats. These figures rise to 80% for bat houses that are at least 25 inches tall with the highest inhabitant rates observed for multi-chamber maternity houses and rocket houses. Of the inhabited houses, 50% were inhabited in the first year with 90% inhabited within the first two years. A small percentage of houses were inhabited in the three-to-five-year range but you may want to consider relocating and/or upgrading your bat house if the house has been empty more than two years. [16] Note that bats may treat your bat house as a temporary migration site or a short-term secondary roost site. Both of these uses are important for bats but may make it challenging to verify that bats occupy the house. Install a bat guano catch container beneath your house or install a camera near the bat house to better determine if bats are using your house. Follow the guidelines noted below regarding bat house placement and design to maximize your chances of having bats move into your bat house. Locate bat houses in sites that meet the natural habitat requirements as much as possible – i.e. multiple houses with diverse designs should be placed where there is water and trees nearby, with some houses in sun and other houses in part shade. Bats may overheat in bat houses on sunny, hot days so bats need nearby cooler houses to survive the heat. Ideally, three bat houses should be installed in the same general area (less than 300 feet apart), with one facing east (morning warmth), one facing south (all-day warmth) and one facing west (evening warmth). North-facing houses will likely be too cold to attract bats. Bat houses may be attached to buildings (retain the most heat at night), to poles or to trees that have tall, pole-like trunks that are clear of branches. When attaching a bat house to a building, use 2” to 4” spacers behind the house to reduce the amount of bat guano that may land on the building. Bat houses attached to trees will generally be used by bats as secondary houses due to shade and lack of clearance around the house. Poles or trees should be wrapped with metal or another surface that discourages ground predators from climbing into the bat house. Bat houses should be installed at least 10 to 16 feet above ground level with 10 feet of clear space below the bat house since bats usually drop from the house and then take flight. Remove any thorny bushes or plants with burrs found underneath the bat house to protect the bats from potentially getting tangled in harmful plants. If water containers (e.g. bird baths, cattle troughs) are near bat houses, ensure that each container has rough sides or some device that would allow bats to crawl out of the water. Do not install bat houses close to wires, poles or tree branches that could interfere with bat flight or where predators may wait to attack bats as the bats emerge from their houses. Avoid sites that are noisy, dusty (e.g. near dirt roads) or subject to industrial pollutants. Do not put bat houses where there is artificial light at night (e.g. near a streetlight). Find alternative sites if local insects are regularly subject to pesticides or other substances poisonous to bats. Avoid sites with high human traffic where bats may be vulnerable to human interference. Finally, steer clear of windy sites, especially around wind turbines that are known to be lethal to bats. Once you have selected a bat house site, you may choose to purchase or build your bat houses. Good bat houses will be much larger than bird houses (typical size is 35” x 18” x 7”) and should contain multiple interior chambers that allow bats to move to the best microclimate within a house at different times of the day. Bat houses should be taller than they are wide and contain a few vented chambers which also helps create multiple microclimates within the bat house. Bat houses should not be built with chemically treated wood because bats may absorb or ingest the chemicals during grooming. However, the exterior of bat houses must be waterproofed, seams should be caulked and a roof should be installed to protect the bats from precipitation. Bats have shown a preference for dark-colored exteriors but secondary bat houses may be lighter colored to accommodate a cooler interior. Wooden bat houses should be constructed with screws rather than nails since nailed seams are more likely to gap open as wood ages. bat houses The interior chambers of bat houses should include grooved sides which aids bats when crawling around the bat house. Screening or other similar material is not recommended for the interior of bat houses since bat guano may become lodged in the screen. Bat houses should be inspected monthly when inhabited and cleaned once-a-year during winter when bats are hibernating at a different site. Spiders, spider webs, wasps and wasp nests should be removed from the bat houses during the annual cleaning. Although some wasps may survive in concert with bats, wasp nests may grow large over the years and take over too much space in the bat house. The bat house may be washed out with water or a 5%-10% bleach solution which can reduce parasites. If you want to build a bat house, free bat house plans with detailed instructions are available from Bat Conservation International [17][18]. If you want to purchase a bat house, be cautious when exploring non-specialty retailers. You may get a higher qualify bat house if you buy from organizations that have been certified by Bat Conservation International such as BatGoods.com ( http://www.batgoods.com/category/Bat-Houses-by-BCM-58 ) or Fly By Night Inc. ( http://www.flybynightinc.org/houses_files/bhbuy.html ). Bibliography (a) “Bats of Minnesota”, Minnesota DNR, 2025 http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mammals/bats.html [2] USGS, FAQ: “Why are bats important?” http://www.usgs.gov/faqs/why-are-bats-important#:~:text=By%20eating%20insects%2C%20bats%20save,53%20billion%20dollars%20per%20year . [3] “The Benefits of Bats”, Bureau of Land Management, http://www.blm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files/benefits_of_bats_brochure.pdf [4] “State of the Bats, North America 2023”, Bat Conservation International http://digital.batcon.org/state-of-the-bats-report/2023-report/ [5] “Big Brown Bat”, National Park Service, http://home.nps.gov/shen/learn/nature/big-brown-bat.htm#:~:text=Numerous%20feeding%20studies%20of%20big,Whitaker%20and%20Hamilton%2C%201998 [6] “Little Brown Bat”, Virginia Department of Wildlife Resources, http://dwr.virginia.gov/wildlife/information/little-brown-bat/ [7] “Creating a Garden for Bats”, Bat Conservation International, March 2023, http://www.batcon.org/creating-a-garden-for-bats/ [8] “Night Shift Pollinators”, Minnesota State Horticultural Society, June 2021 http://northerngardener.org/night-shift-pollinators/ [9] “Bats & Blooms: Creating a Bat-Friendly Native Plant Garden”, National Wildlife Federation, http://gardenforwildlife.com/blogs/learning-center/bats-blooms-creating-a-bat-friendly-native-plant-garden?srsltid=AfmBOorPeLd4w409QCgIl-bdZG3ZqArTpV6i4aUkXEuN7LTurgZpfjy2 [10] “Native Plants for Pollinators and Beneficial Insects: Midwest Region”, Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, http://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/22-025_01_NPPBI%E2%80%94Midwest_web.pdf [11] “Native Grasses Benefit Butterflies and Moths”, University of Minnesota Extension, http://grasses.cfans.umn.edu/sites/grasses.umn.edu/files/files/native_grasses_benefit_butterflies_and_moths_0.pdf [12] “Gardeners urged to help beetles”, The Wildlife Trusts, http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/news/gardeners-urged-help-beetles#:~:text=Build%20a%20beetle%20bank%20%E2%80%93%20Adding,Beetle%20%C2%A9northeastwildlife.co.uk [13] “The Scoop on Bat Poop”, Bat Conservation International, http://www.batcon.org/the-scoop-on-bat-poop/ [14] “How to Use Bat Guano Fertilizer Safely in Your Garden”, Epic Gardener, http://www.epicgardening.com/bat-guano/ [15] “Best Management Practices for the Use of Bat Houses in U.S. and Canada”, Wildlife Conservation Society Canada produced in cooperation with US Fish and Wildlife Service and Canadian Wildlife Health Cooperative, September 2023, http://iris.fws.gov/APPS/ServCat/DownloadFile/241311 [16] “Attracting Bats”, Bat Conservation International and Colorado State University, http://sam.extension.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2016/05/attractingbats.pdf [17] “Four-chamber Nursery Bat House”, Bat Conservation International, http://www.batcon.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/4-Chamber-Nursery-House-Plans.pdf [18] “Two-chamber Rocket Box”, Bat Conservation International, http://batcon.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/RocketBoxPlans.pdf [19] “Beneficial bats help control insects in the garden”, Oregon State University, May 2023, http://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/beneficial-bats-help-control-insects-garden [20] USGS, FAQ: “Do vampire bats really exist?” http://www.usgs.gov/faqs/do-vampire-bats-really-exist [21] “How Bats Survive Minnesota Winters”, Three Rivers Park District, http://www.threeriversparks.org/blog/how-bats-survive-minnesota-winters [22] “Bats Lead in U.S. Rabies Risk”, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 2019 http://archive.cdc.gov/www_cdc_gov/media/releases/2019/p0611-bats-rabies.html Photo credits: Minnesota DNR. http://images.dnr.state.mn.us/natural_resources/animals/mammals/bats/big-brown-bat.png (1), Minnesota DNR. http://images.dnr.state.mn.us/natural_resources/animals/mammals/bats/little-brown-myotis.png (2) , Conservation Society Canada, produced in cooperation with US Fish and Wildlife Service and Canadian Wildlife Health Cooperative. http://iris.fws.gov/APPS/ServCat/DownloadFile/241311 (3)

< Back Ragweed – Our Favorite Weed to Hate Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you sneezing, have itchy or swollen eyes, scratchy throat or nasal congestion these days? The cause might be ragweed! Ragweed pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies or hay fever. And, it can stay with us until October! Read this informative article about how to identify and control Ragweed this season. Achoo! August is the start of back-to-school sales and ragweed season, which lasts through mid-October (ragweed season, that is!). Ragweed pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies, often called hay fever. Preen’s webpage addressing Ragweed called it “the champion of sneeze-inducing weeds” ( Preen ). Many people blame goldenrod for their allergies however all the references used in this article were clear that it is not goldenrod but ragweed that is causing all the misery. Goldenrod Symptoms of Ragweed allergies include sneezing, eyes that may be itchy or swollen, a scratchy throat, runny nose, nasal congestion and/or sinus pressure and pain, coughing, and even sleep disruptions ( Minnesota ENT ). About 10% of the population are allergic to Ragweed. Ragweed has been found across the whole country, with 17 varieties identified. There are three kinds of ragweed that grow in Minnesota: Common Ragweed ( Ambrosia artemisiifolia ), Giant Ragweed ( Ambrosia trifida), and Western Ragweed ( Ambrosia psilostachya) . The three types look different, with Giant Ragweed distinguishable due to its large size, growing up to 17-20 feet. Common Ragweed reaches a height of 2-4 feet, and Western Ragweed grows to a height of 1-3 feet. All three have distinctly different leaves. Western Ragweed leaves are hairy and are oval-lance shaped that are deeply lobed. Common Ragweed’s leaves are fernlike, and Giant Ragweed has palmately lobed leaves. The Common Ragweed has a taproot, Giant Ragweed has fibrous roots with a short tap root, and Western Ragweed has fibrous, creeping rhizomes ( Cornell CALS , Minnesota Wildflowers ). They all grow in disturbed soil, with Common Ragweed common in both rural and urban settings. Common Ragweed’s seed production, per plant, is 3,500 seeds compared to Giant Ragweed’s seed production of 10,300 seeds per plant. Seeds from both plants can live in the soil for up to 30 years, with only 50% depletion seen in 1.5 to two years ( Time to Remove Flowers, UMN IPM Extension , Common and Giant Ragweed Identification ). The seeds are dispersed through wind, water, animals (rodents and birds), and farming practices. A single Ragweed plant can produce up to a billion grains of pollen ( Preen ). Ragweed pollen travels! It has been found 400 miles out to sea and 2 miles into the air ( Minnesota ENT ). This graph from the Minnesota Department of Health (2020) shows the types of pollen and their percentages. Ragweed represented almost 60% of the pollens sampled in the air. Link: Pollen Charts, MN Department of Health All forms of Ragweed can be difficult to control. The best approach is the manual method of plant removal, especially pulling them out before August to avoid pollen release. You can also repeatedly cut them down to keep them from flowering. Herbicides are not generally recommended unless you are farming, which then requires significant applications. Ragweed plants have developed resistance to many herbicides, so if your preference is to use herbicides, it may require the use of several types and several applications. Because ragweed is one of the earliest plants to germinate in the spring (but don’t start causing problems for humans until they start flowering in August), the best method of control is to hand pull them. It is also important to remove them from the yard quickly as they can re-root if left in a debris pile. References: Bayer, Crop Sciences United States: https://www.cropscience.bayer.us/articles/channel/common-and-giant-ragweed-identification-and-management Cornell College of Agriculture and Life Sciences: https://cals.cornell.edu/weed-science/weed-profiles/giant-ragweed Minnesota Department of Health (MDH): https://data.web.health.state.mn.us/pollen_charts Minnesota Ears, Nose, and Throat (ENT) Specialists: https://minnesotaent.com/goldenrod-or-ragweed-whats-worse/ Minnesota Wildflowers: https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/common-ragweed https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/western-ragweed Missouri Department of Conservation: https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/giant-ragweed Preen: https://www.preen.com/learn/lawn-garden-tips/weed-control/weed-notes/how-to-control-ragweed/ University of Minnesota Weed Identification: https://extension.umn.edu/weed-identification/annual-broadleaf-weeds#ragweed%2C-giant-8380611 University of Minnesota Extension Fruit and Vegetable News: https://blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu/2024/08/why-remove-flowering-weeds.html University of Minnesota Extension Yard and Garden News: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/zero-seed-rain Photo Credits: Chris Evans, University of Illinois, Bugwood.org (1), www.publicdomainpictures.net (2), Strand Memorial Herbarium (3-6), https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/western-ragweed (7)

< Back Wild Bergamot, the Bees’ Delight Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner Watching bees and butterflies hovering over lavender-topped Wild Bergamot on a quiet summer afternoon is a delightful moment. It is just one of the reasons to include this native plant in your garden. Read this article to learn more about the environmental benefits and other charms of this beautiful plant. There are a number of varieties of Monarda fistulosa , differing in their color and odor. As you might imagine it is a popular source of nectar for bees, hummingbirds and butterflies as well as being a larval host for the orange mint moth and the hermit sphinx moth. It has been widely used as a medicinal plant by Native Americans and indeed it is high in thymol, an organic compound with antimicrobial properties. Bergamot grows fairly easily in any good garden soil in full sun to partial shade. Clumps of plants divide easily. It can be grown from seed although stratification (exposure to damp cold air) for a month helps. It is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae) although it is not terribly invasive. Bergamot forms clumps which can reach 4 feet. It works nicely as a perennial border but it is at its best in a natural landscape or in a prairie restoration, blooming in late summer. That blooming produces lipped, light to dark lavender purple flowers, arranged in a whorl around a rounded flower head. The seed heads will hold into the winter providing visual interest as well as distinctive bergamot aroma. Speaking of aroma, being a native herb, the dried or macerated leaves can be boiled to produce a fragrant tea. It usually is quite hardy, although Wild Bergamot does tend to develop mildew on the leaves in late summer. This is a purely cosmetic issue and not one to warrant a chemical onslaught. Instead, relax and enjoy bergamot’s showy flowers and swarms of colorful, intriguing insects. Photo credit: My Patriot Supply (1), Jeff Fleming (2) & Julie Harris (3)

< Back Preparing Your Trees and Evergreens for Winter Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener and Brynne Eisele, Master Gardener We’ve all heard that there are only two seasons in Minnesota---Winter and Getting Ready for Winter (or is it Road Repair?). In any event, Minnesota’s harsh winter can cause severe damage to landscape plants. The big three threats are sun, cold and critters. Happily, there are a number of things you can do this fall to protect your trees and shrubs from the Terrible Trio. Sun Damage. On a clear winter day, the sun can heat up the bark of a tree or the needles of an evergreen to the point where the cells will come out of dormancy. When the sun sets or goes behind a cloud cover, the temperature in the cells rapidly drops, killing the exposed plant tissue. This “sun scald” is most likely to occur on the bark of young or thin-skinned trees such as cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, mountain ash or plum. To prevent sunscald, wrap the trunk of susceptible trees with a white plastic tree guard available at most nurseries and on-line. Stay away from brown paper tree wrap or black tree guards as they will absorb heat rather than reflect it. You should wrap newly planted trees for at least two winters and thin-barked species for five or more winters. Apply the tree guards in the fall and remove in the spring after the last frost. A white plastic tree guard applied to a new planting. Evergreens are susceptible to similar injury, especially with early cold weather in the fall or a spring cold snap after new growth has begun. Although all evergreens are susceptible to this “winter browning”, yew, hemlock, and arborvitae as well as new transplants are especially so. Several measures can reduce winter evergreen injury. When planting susceptible species, consider placing them in areas protected from wind and winter sun such as the north or northwest side of buildings. If a plant is exposed, a barrier of burlap on the windward (usually the south or southwest) side can help. As with deciduous trees, watering in the late fall before a hard frost can make a big difference. Don’t prune after August as this may stimulate growth that a frost will “nip in the bud.” Commercial anti-desiccants and anti-transpirant sprays have not been found to be helpful. Cold Damage. Cold weather can kill trees and shrubs if conditions are right. The cold accomplishes this be freezing the root system which is much more cold-sensitive than the stems of branches. What normally protects the root system of a tree or evergreen is the relative warmth of the surrounding earth. The soil cools less rapidly than air. Any insulation from a snow-cover or mulch will further increase soil and root warmth. Thus, to reduce root injury cover newly planted trees and shrubs with 3 to 4 inches of shredded wood mulch. You should pull the mulch away from the trunk about 6 inches to create a “doughnut” not a “volcano”! Watering is also critical. Moist soil retains heat much better than dry soil. If the fall has been dry water heavily before the ground freezes. This will reduce frost penetration. Before you mulch, check new plantings for cracks in the soil. These act as cold air conduits. Fill them in with soil. Critter Damage. If you have a manageable number of trees and shrubs to protect, the best defense is to surround the plant or trunk with ¼ inch mesh hardware cloth 6 inches away from the plant. This will prevent animals from reaching through to do their damage. Keep in mind the anticipated snow line as it’s important to protect 1-2 feet above the snow line with the hardware cloth to prevent animals from nibbling partway up the plant. It is also important to bury the bottom of the hardware cloth 2-3 inches below the soil surface to reduce the chance of animals tunneling underneath. For smaller, less established trees you may be able to use plastic white tree guards. If you have large number of trees and shrubs to protect, consider applying an organic repellant. Coated hardware cloth cylinder sunk 2-3 inches below ground. Reducing the desirable habitat will help decrease protective cover and nesting locations. This can be done by cutting grass and other vegetation short in a 2 foot radius around young trees and shrubs. It also helps to remove brush piles and add fencing to other hiding places such as under decks. While hungry animals in winter may gnaw on your trees and shrubs no matter the protective measures you take, these methods can significantly reduce the amount and severity of damage. Deer, however, are a different story. They often adapt to repellents and a change of product is frequently necessary to discourage them. In late winter when they are starving, even that won’t stop them. Thus, a physical barrier is often the only way to manage deer. That can be a tough proposition though. Fences should be at least 8 feet high and of sturdy construction. However, a hungry deer if given a running start can clear a 12-foot barrier. You might try an electric fence such as used for cattle. Deer populations have been exploding in Minnesota as we have eliminated their natural predators. Maybe a few wolves here and there aren’t so bad. For more information on this complex subject, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back The Dakota County Seed Library This month we would like to tell you about the Dakota County Seed Library, located in the Farmington Library. Read on to learn about how this important project contributes to the support of pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices and, most importantly for you, the home gardener, how you can benefit from and contribute to this project. Lana Tullis with Julie Harris, Master Gardeners Dakota County Master Gardeners, in partnership with the Dakota County Library Foundation and Dakota County Natural Resources, maintain the seed library. The Seed Library provides residents and home gardeners with a diverse selection of heirloom and open-pollinated edibles, herbs, flowers and native plant seeds. This free resource is intended to promote the growth of healthy, flavorful food and preserve plant varieties by offering a number of heirloom varieties well suited for our climate but not commonly found in retail centers. These seeds allow you, the home gardener, to protect, preserve and share these valuable seeds. The Seed Library also offers native plant seeds that support pollinators and sustainable landscaping practices. These heirloom seeds are available to the public at the Farmington Library (508 3rd St., Farmington, MN 55024) while supplies last, beginning in March. A library card is not required, however, for the enjoyment of all, please consider limiting your selection to 5 packets per visit. The check out system is easy. Just select your seed packets, scan the QR code or fill out a checkout sheet and drop into the lockbox located near the seed cabinet. Each seed packet includes directions for planting and growing that are seed specific. The Farmington Seed Library was established about 5 years ago and has grown annually with generous donations from local and regional seed suppliers (Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, Albert Lea Select Seeds) along with local gardeners. Note that you can contribute to the seed library . Heirloom seed donations can be left at the Farmington Library. Please provide the original supplier packaging with “packaged for dates” of 2021 or later. Harvested, or saved, seeds from your garden may also be shared through our ‘share’ drawer. Throughout the winter, Master Gardener volunteers sort, label and organize donations for an estimated 3,000 - 4,000 seed packets. Volunteers also maintain inventory throughout the season, conduct demonstration plantings and are available to support your gardening plan. Lana Tullis is the project lead and is supported by Becky Peterson, BJ Hansell, Jackie Pospisil, Cynthia Muller, Patty Sutherland and Janet Schutte. Check out Heirloom and Native seeds at the Farmington Library - automatic renewal and no late fees! More information can be found at www.co.dakota.mn.us/libraries/Using/Seed . Photo Credit: Barbara Svoboda, Farmington Library Librarian (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back Identifying Bees and Wasps and their Nests BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener There it is. The buzzing noise that strikes fear into the hearts of many a gardener. It might be nothing more than a hummingbird zipping by. Or maybe, just maybe, It’s a stinging insect. It’s a bee, a wasp a hornet! Duck and run!! Truly, most of the time if you leave these creatures alone, they will leave you alone. After all, they are only protecting their territory. They are wonderful pollinators, and you do love how well your garden is flourishing. Hmmm, let’s take a closer look at them & their homes. There it is. The buzzing noise that strikes fear into the hearts of many a gardener. It might be nothing more than a hummingbird zipping by. Or maybe, just maybe It’s a stinging insect. It’s a bee, a wasp a hornet! Duck and run!! Truly, most of the time if you leave these creatures alone, they will leave you alone. After all, they are only protecting their territory. They are wonderful pollinators, and you do love how well your garden is flourishing. Hmmm, let’s take a closer look at them and their homes. Read on to begin our busy journey. This article is a very basic overview of the most commonly encountered wasp and bee nests in MN. You are encouraged to peruse the references provided. Indeed, count them as a launching pad into the amazing world of these insects, without which most of our gardens and agriculture fields would yield vacant lots and desolate landscapes. Wasps and their nests : Wasps will generally not bother people when their nests are not near human activity but should be eliminated when they are located close to people to minimize the risk of stings. Yellowjackets and paper wasps are two types of wasps commonly found in Minnesota. Yellowjackets are 3/8” to 5/8” long and are bright yellow with black lines or other shaped markings on their abdomens. Their bodies are basically hairless and are hard and shiny. They can be mistaken for honey bees. Yellowjackets can be aggressive during late summer and fall around human food and drink. Yellowjackets make their nests from a papery pulp made of chewed-up wood fibers mixed with saliva. Their nests may be found in many places: below ground in open cavities, hollow logs, and in voids in attics and walls. Some yellowjackets build nests in trees and under eaves of buildings. Hundreds to thousands of yellow jackets may be found inside these nests. Paper wasps are ½ to 1 inch long and are usually brown with yellowish markings. Paper wasp nests are small and can be found under any horizontal surface. In contrast with yellowjackets, not more than 100 wasps can be found in these nests. Neither yellowjackets nor paper wasps use their nests for more than one season. Bees and their nests. Honey bees and bumble bees are two types of bees commonly found in Minnesota. Bee nests are not usually a problem for humans and should be preserved when possible. There are many different bumble bee species in Minnesota. Generally, bumble bees have the following characteristics: their size is less than one-half inch to one inch; they are fuzzy and round; and they are black and yellow. Bumble bee nests are often found in underground cavities, under objects on the ground or higher up in trees or wall cavities. Their nests are made of wax. Honey bees are about one-half inch long; are golden brown with thin black stripes on their abdomens and are fuzzy. Part of each hind leg is flat for collecting pollen. Honey bee nests are the familiar vertical honeycombs made of wax. Their colonies are mostly found in manufactured hives although they occasionally nest in cavities of trees, buildings or similar structures. Bees and wasps are complex and fascinating creatures that are vital to human existence. Although most of the time they will not bother humans, they can be aggressive if threatened. To feel more comfortable with these creatures, you would do well to learn all you can about them. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/wasps-and-bees https://www.pollinatorsnativeplants.com/plant-lists--posters.html https://beelab.umn.edu/bumble-bees Photo credits: Photo 1, 5: en.wikipedia.org Photo 2: 3,4: University of Minnesota Extension Photo 6: Elaine Evans, University of Minnesota- Extension Photo 7: Dalantech.deviantart.com (all creative commons) Photo 8: Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Extension

< Back Sweet Potatoes and a Sweet Winter Treat Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Sweet potatoes are a lovely garden plant. They are a low calorie but highly nutritious food and have a beautiful color. Sweet potatoes can be harvested very late in the fall and are pretty easy to store over the winter. Best of all, they taste great. You will love this sweet potato recipe from Master Gardener Joy Johnson along with a bonus sweet treat. I want to encourage you to grow sweet potatoes. They are a lovely garden plant, although their vines do take up a lot of room in the garden. The sweet potatoes can be harvested very late in the fall just before the first hard frost. It’s pretty easy to store an abundant crop of sweet potatoes in your home over the winter. That process can be found easily online. The sweet potatoes that I used in this recipe were ones that were grown last fall and stored over the winter. They are a low calorie highly nutritious food and of course have a beautiful color. This recipe makes use of your crockpot but it could also be baked in the oven. Balsamic Seasoned Chicken and Sweet Potatoes Ingredients 2 lbs chicken thighs (You can use boneless skinless if you prefer) 14 oz fat free chicken broth One cup dry white wine, or Moscato if you prefer a sweeter broth One tablespoon balsamic vinegar One teaspoon dried thyme One teaspoon olive oil ½ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon caraway seeds (you can also use fennel seeds) 4 sweet potatoes ½ of a large onion sliced Coat a large skillet with cooking spray and heat over high heat, add the chicken and cook until browned on all sides. Let cool slightly. Combine the broth, wine, vinegar, and thyme in the crock pot. Add the chicken. Rub the exposed area of the chicken with the oil, sprinkle with the pepper and caraway seeds. Arrange the potatoes and onions around the chicken. Cover and cook on low until the chicken is tender the juices run clear and a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 170 degrees F and the potatoes are tender: 8 to 10 hours on low or six to 8 hours on high. OR put the chicken in a large, deep casserole dish, pour the broth mixture over, add the spices, put the potatoes in, layering them with the chicken. Cover and bake in a 350-degree oven for two hours or until chicken registers 170 degrees and potatoes are done. Serve this with rice or mashed potatoes or toast because you have a lot of delicious broth. Chinese Almond Cookies April 9th is national Chinese almond cookie day. Even though there are no ingredients that come from your garden, I thought you would enjoy this Chinese American treat that aren't authentically Chinese. Their round shape symbolizes coins and good luck. They are traditionally served for Chinese New Year. Here are a couple tips to make your cookies a success. · Make sure the butter is cold · Use almond flour not almond meal · Do not skip refrigerating the dough for two hours Ingredients 1 1/3 cups almond flour lightly packed 1 cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut into cubes A pinch of salt 2 large eggs, divided 1 teaspoon almond extract 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup +2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon baking soda thinly sliced almonds, for decoration Place the almond flour, salt, and butter into an electric mixer with a paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for three minutes. The mixture will become coarse and chunky looking. Add one of the eggs and the almond extract. Mix them in on low speed just until incorporated. Sift the flour, sugar, and baking soda together, and add to the mixture. Mix on low speed until just combined. Take the dough and flatten it into a disc and wrap in plastic wrap. Place it in the refrigerator for two hours to chill. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a small bowl, beat the remaining egg. Take pieces of dough and roll them into balls about 3/4 inch wide. Place them on the sheet about an inch apart and then press them down slightly with your palm to make a coin shape. Press 1 slivered almond into the center of each cookie. Then using a pastry brush or your finger, paint each cookie with the beaten egg. Bake for 13 to 15 minutes, until the edges just begin to tan. Cool on the sheet on a wire rack. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3)

< Back Garlic Butter Brussel Sprouts Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s March and this month green vegetables may be top of mind (thanks to Saint Patrick, I’m sure). Garden seeds are sprouting under their grow lights and we are excited for warmer days to come when they’ve grown large enough to transplant outside into our gardens. In the meantime, here is a recipe for one green vegetable – brussels sprouts. According to the author, Joy Johnson, even the pickiest of brussels sprouts eaters will love this recipe! For this month’s recipe, I’ll admit I used store bought brussels sprouts. I have grown them in my garden, but I have not had any last in cool storage until March. I’ve never tried to freeze them and would welcome any tips on doing that in case I have a bumper crop this year. Usually, we gobble them up fresh from the garden in late fall. This recipe will tickle your taste buds with it’s spicey, smokey flavors that are cooled with a lemon Aioli sauce to drizzle on just before eating. Garlic Butter Brussels Sprouts Ingredients : 1 lb. Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 4 slices bacon, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 Tablespoons salted butter, melted 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or grated A couple sprigs of fresh thyme for garnish A couple of lemon wedges Process : Preheat the oven to 425 degrees with a rack positioned in the lower third of the oven. In a gallon plastic food storage bag, gently shake together the Brussels sprouts, olive oil, thyme and red pepper flakes. Arrange the Brussels sprouts cut side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Lay the bacon pieces over the sprouts. Roast until the sprouts are deeply browned and the bacon is crisp, 20 – 25 minutes. In a small bowl, stir together the melted butter and the garlic. Remove the sprouts from the oven and pour the butter mixture over them. Return the sprouts to the oven and roast until crispy, 10 minutes. Smokey Lemon Aioli Ingredients: ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tablespoons lemon juice 1 garlic clove, finely chopped or grated ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon smoked paprika Salt Process : In a small bowl stir together the mayonnaise, lemon juice, garlic, cayenne and paprika. Taste and add salt as needed. Pile the Brussels sprouts onto a serving plate, sprinkle with the sprigs of fresh thyme, and squeeze the lemon wedges over them. Serve with the bowl of aioli for dipping or drizzle it over them. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,3), foto.wuestenigel.com (2)

Contact Dakota County Master Gardeners Volunteers We would love to hear from you! Visit our Speakers Bureau page if you are interested in having a Master Gardener speak to your group. Use the contact form on this page. Submit Thank you for contacting Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers. One of our volunteers will respond soon. Contact Information Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers 4100 220th St W #101 Farmington, MN 55024

About Us The mission of the Dakota County Extension Master Gardener program is to educate and assist the public by answering questions and solving problems about horticulture and related environmental topics. There are more than 130 Dakota County residents who are University of Minnesota Extension-trained and volunteer thousands of hours each year. Events & Workshops What We Do Extension Master Gardeners use up-to-date University information to provide education and horticulture resources. Teaching classes to youth and adults Speaking to groups Participating in community events and projects Conducting research Answering gardening questions online and by phone Partnering with other state and county organizations Learn more about the state Master Gardener program or how to become a Dakota County Master Gardener: State-wide Extension Master Gardener Volunteers program Dakota County Extension Master Gardener membership