< Back Junior Fall Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The blustery days of fall yield a kaleidoscope of leaves across our Minnesota yards and parks. Have your children ever wondered why these leaves transform to new colors in the fall? Help your child become a Junior Fall Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of why leaves change colors in the fall. Calling all Junior Fall Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are for why leaves convert from the summer color of green to red, orange, yellow, or brown shades as they fall to the ground. Once the clues are known, pull on your coziest sweatshirt and head outside to observe the evidence of fall leaves’ transformation, revealed in trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your observation skills, you can solve the mystery of why leaves are now changed to a new hue. CLUES Have you ever noticed how the leaves on the trees and bushes seem to suddenly turn from green to deep reds, yellows and oranges seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? Most of the year, the special chemical inside of leaves, called chlorophyll, gives leaves their green tint. The chlorophyll helps leaves absorb energy from sunlight during a process called photosynthesis , which converts the energy into sugar to feed the trees or plants. As the seasons change from summer to fall, the air temperatures drop and the days get shorter. Look for these clues for when leaves will begin to change color: Air temperatures . The Minnesota average temperatures on September 1 are 77 degrees daytime, 59 degrees nighttime. By November 1, the temperatures have decreased to an average of 50 degrees daytime, 35 degrees nighttime. Daylight . From the start of school in early September until now in October, you probably have noticed less daylight each day as you hop on your school bus in the morning until you are playing at the park at the end of the day. Daylight on average decreases by one hour and 15 minutes from August 1 through October 15. As the trees and plants get less sunlight, the chlorophyll in the leaves breaks down. With less chlorophyll, yellow and orange color pigments replace the green color of summer. Sometimes darker red leaves appear as the sugar produced in the leaves stays in the leaves (instead of feeding the tree), because the tree has stopped its growth for the year. EVIDENCE Venture outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of fall to predict when the leaves will be changing colors: the cooler air at your soccer game requiring a need for your favorite sweater and the sun setting earlier over the horizon of the local lake. What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged the leaves to start transforming? Trees . Trees and bushes are dropping an array of leaves with bright reds, yellows, oranges and browns. Burning bush (or Euonymus alatus), along with oaks and maple trees create intense red leaves. River birch and yellow poplar trees have showy yellow displays in the fall. Creatures. The arrival of fall invites the creatures in your yard, or local park, to either migrate to the warmer south, or prepare to hunker down for the Minnesota winters by making nests or dens. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, form flocks and fly south. Look up to the autumn sky as the migrating birds fly in triangular formation to head to warmer locations. Butterflies, like the monarch, partake in a long journey to winter in warm Mexico. You may notice that the butterflies are no longer to be found in the garden. Other animals, insects and birds remain in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or under the brush of the colorful fallen leaves and nearby evergreens. Look closely, squirrels are collecting seeds and acorns to save up for their winter meals. SOLVE Want to prove that the fall leaves have been changed due to the cooler air and shorter days? Bundle in a warm jacket and take a hike around your yard and neighborhood with your family or friends. Make sure to get outside during daylight as the sun sets earlier so you can accumulate the evidence of the leaves changing colors. Collect as many leaves as possible or help rake your yard. Notice all the beautiful colors! Have a contest : 1. Who gathered the most leaves? 2. Who picked up the most red/yellow/orange/brown leaves? Celebrate the results by making a leaf pile and jumping in it together! Activity : Find your favorite leaf from your collection. With the help of an adult, cut two equally measured squares of wax paper (about 1” larger than your chosen leaf). Insert the leaf between the two wax papers. With an iron on the lowest setting and a cloth over and underneath the wax papers, briefly hold the iron on the top cloth until the wax papers melt together. What a brilliant fall keepsake you have created! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects Read: Goodbye Summer, Hello Autumn by Kenard Pak ISBN: 9781627794152 (Dakota County Library) or buy at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Goodbye-Summer-Hello-Autumn-Kenard/dp/1627794158 . A children’s book describing the clues and evidence discussed above for fall leaves. References https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/science-behind-fall-colors#:~:text=Our%20research%20showed%20that%20the,develop%20the%20pigments%20each%20fall. https://www.si.edu/stories/why-do-leaves-change-color-fall https://weatherspark.com/s/10405/2/Average-Fall-Weather-in-Minneapolis-Minnesota-United-States#:~:text=Daily%20high%20temperatures%20decrease%20by,or%20exceeding%2068°F https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/historical/annual.html https://journeynorth.org/projects Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1,2,3), Book Jacket (4)

< Back Exploring Autumn Nature with Your Child Julie Harris, Master Gardener Summer may be over but winter isn’t here yet. Now is a great time to have some outside fun with the children in your life. Take advantage of these last days of fall to show your children how to enjoy what autumn nature has to offer. Here are some ideas for how to make the most of this time of year. Summer may be over but winter isn’t here yet. Late autumn is a great time to have some outside fun with the children in your life. Take advantage of these last days of fall to show your children how to enjoy what autumn nature has to offer. Here are some ideas for how to make the most of this time of year. Raking leaves Some of that autumn fun can also be productive. Raking and bagging leaves with your kids can make the job more fun for all. Hand your children a child-sized rake and show them how to make a pile of leaves. Make a game out of raking by making a leaf maze. If you are with more than one child, have them race to see who can make the largest pile or who can bag the most leaves. They may not last very long in the actual raking activity but they will love to jump into that big pile of leaves! Children love the interesting shapes and sizes of the brightly colored leaves. Gathering leaves together provides you with the opportunity to teach them about why leaves turn colors and fall from the trees in the autumn. Kids also love to collect the leaves. Follow up your raking activity with an arts and crafts project such as leaf pressing, tracing or cutting. And later in November, here is an idea for using fallen leaves to create some Thanksgiving art. Planting Bulbs Let your children get their hands and knees dirty as they help you plant your spring blooming bulbs (you can still plant those bulbs in November as long as the ground isn’t frozen). Your children can help you pick out a good spot to plant the bulbs. They can help you rake the area clear to dig your holes. And, they can take their child-sized trowel and help you dig the holes, drop in the bulbs and cover them up. Watch their happy faces as they see the bulbs they helped to plant, pop up in brightly colored tulips, narcissus, hyacinth or crocus in the spring. Nature walk One of the most pleasurable sensory experiences for the whole family is going for a nature walk when the leaves have turned color with some still on the trees and others fallen to the ground. Few things in nature are more beautiful than fall colors. And, can’t you just hear the rustle of crispy fallen leaves on the path as you walk through the autumn wonderland? The Minnesota Landscape Arboretum has many easy hiking trails that will delight both you and your children. And, Dakota County is lucky to have the many trails of Lebanon Hills Regional Park right around the corner. When my grandson was younger, he loved to collect “coconuts” (acorns) fallen from the oak trees in our parks. Use this interest to provide an easy math lesson as you walk by having your children count the acorns or leaves that they collect along the way. Or prepare a scavenger hunt for your children. See how many different types of leaves they can collect and then match them to the type of tree they fell from. And how about seed saving during your nature walk. After you have collected seeds, there are many different crafts and activities you can use them for, such as making seed balls, making musical instruments, curing and eating pumpkin and sunflower seeds, and on and on. Read About Nature And finally, read books with your child about autumn and the change of seasons. Here are some book ideas that are available at the Dakota County Library. Goodbye Autumn, Hello Winter , Kenard Pak Woody, Hazel and Little Pip , by Elsa Beskow Red Leaf, Yellow Leaf , by Lois Ehlert Better still, take a trip to the library and have your child pick out the books that interest them. Nature in the fall is one of life’s beautiful gifts. Take your child’s hand and enjoy it with them. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1,4), Megan Kohoed (2), Pixabay.com (3)

< Back Our State Fruit: Honeycrisp Apple From mysterious beginnings, to a world-famous apple breeding program at the University of Minnesota, thanks to the research and writing skills of a 4th grade class, the “Honeycrisp” apple became a Minnesota state symbol. Read this article to learn more about the interesting journey of this delicious fruit. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The road to becoming a state symbol begins with a motivated elementary classroom more often than not. In 2005, at Andersen Elementary School in Bayport, Minnesota, 4th grade teacher Laurel Avery made her students’ education come to life when she directed her class to write a persuasive letter. After learning that another 4th grade class had persuaded the state legislature to proclaim the monarch butterfly the Minnesota state insect several years earlier, Ms. Avery’s class set about researching the perfect candidate for the Minnesota state fruit. Since the University of Minnesota has a world- renowned apple breeding program, the 4th graders came up with an obvious choice: a true Minnesota state fruit, an apple that was created right here in Minnesota and became a favorite around the world; the award-winning “Honeycrisp” apple. While the “Honeycrisp” was “born” in Minnesota, its beginnings were somewhat of a mystery until very recently. For decades, the parentage of the “Honeycrisp” was mistakenly assumed to be the “Macoun” and “Honeygold” apples. This was due to a recordkeeping error in the 1970’s. Imagine thousands of research records dating back to the late 1800’s, the beginning of the University’s apple breeding program. The paper records were haphazardly stored in a fireproof vault. So, it wasn’t surprising that an error had been made in determining the apple’s lineage. Jim Luby, a professor in the Department of Horticultural Sciences, who along with Senior Research Fellow David Bedford, leads the University of Minnesota apple breeding program, tasked librarians and graduate student Nick Howard to sort all of the records and make sense of it all. As they tackled the monumental task, Nick Howard dug even deeper by cross-referencing the data with DNA tests. They ultimately concluded that “Honeycrisp” is the child of “Keepsake” and an unreleased apple “MN1627.” Like humans researching their genealogy, apple DNA testing along with the newly organized handwritten records allowed the apple breeders to trace the “Honeycrisp’s” ancestry all the way back to Europe. James Luby, left, and David Bedford Becoming a world-famous apple doesn’t happen overnight. The “Honeycrisp” was developed in 1960, patented in 1988, and not released until 1991. Here is the typical process: Year 1: Study various cultivars to choose parents with desired characteristics. Hand pollinate the flowers, germinate the seeds, plant the new trees in a greenhouse, and do DNA testing on a leaf from each plant that was grown to see which traits were passed on. Years 2-5: Graft successful matches onto dwarfing rootstocks and allow those trees to grow. First fruit appears at around Year 5. Fruit from every tree is tasted with about only 1 out of every 200 passing the taste test. The rest of the trees are discarded. Years 5-15: The trees that make it to this round of evaluation are cloned by budding/grafting onto common rootstock. For the next 10 to 15 years, these trees are evaluated by looking at 25 desirable characteristics, like texture, flavor, storage ability, disease resistance, etc. Like the previous round, most trees that get to this round will be discarded. Years 15-20: Trees that do make it to this round of evaluations are planted across Minnesota and the U.S. in diverse settings. Researchers see how they perform and if the growers have any interest in the apple. Years 20-25: Commercialization begins with naming, licensing, and distribution to growers to propagate the trees. Years 25-30: About 5 years after commercial growers propagate the trees, consumers can finally have access to the apple. The trees that were the result of the cross of “Keepsake” and “MN1627” that made it through all the rounds of evaluation were a huge success. The apple is grown around the world, and is known as “Honeycrunch” in Europe. The “Honeycrisp” has been described as explosively crisp and juicy. It can last at least 7 months if it is refrigerated. Its harvest season lasts from about September 15 to October 5. And, it is hardy all the way to zone 4. Since the “Honeycrisp” was released over 30 years ago, the next generation of apples with “Honeycrisp” as a “parent” have been released, including “First Kiss” and “Triumph.” Time will tell if they are as well liked as “Honeycrisp.” Thank you to Ms. Avery’s class, who made an excellent choice for their recommendation to the state legislature. Their persuasive writing skills clearly made an impact on their representatives who took their case to the capitol. And though they didn’t see success the first year, the following year as 5th graders, their letters and an apple song they wrote and sang to the tune of the Minnesota rouser convinced the state legislators to adopt the “Honeycrisp” as a fitting symbol of our state. Resources for this article: https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/fruit.pdf https://mnhardy.umn.edu/honeycrisp https://license.umn.edu/product/honeycrisp-apples---cold-hardy-minnesota-apple https://twin-cities.umn.edu/news-events/apple-day-scientific-way https://www.continuum.umn.edu/2021/10/secrets-of-the-vault/ https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples https://www.duluthnewstribune.com/lifestyle/state-symbols-are-part-of-what-makes-minnesota-home https://andersen.stillwaterschools.org/our-school/andersen-school-supply-list https://horticulture.umn.edu/news/nicholas-howard-honeycrisp-family-tree https://www.ereferencedesk.com/resources/state-fruit/minnesota.html Photo credits: University of Minnesota Libraries (1), University of Minnesota College of Food, Agricultural and Natural Resource Sciences (2, 3), Anderson Elementary Stillwater Schools (4)

< Back January, A Perfect Time to Re-Design Your Landscape Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener When January brings us huge snowdrifts and blustery winds do you think of Spring? Yes, it’s the perfect time to be thinking about your flower and vegetable gardens and begin making plans for re-designing your landscape. If you have these thoughts, then click on the link to learn more about basic landscape design concepts and current 2024 trends in landscaping. Landscape design is so much more than picking out the right plants for a given area. It can be so overwhelming at first that many of us put it off and live with our overgrown jungle that was landscaped 20 years ago. But the first step to landscape design is to come up with a comprehensive plan that can be tackled over time making it easier for Do-It-Yourselfers. There are many books written about landscape design but I hope to address some of the basic concepts in this short article. There are five parts to a sustainable design: 1) Functional; 2) Maintainable; 3) Environmentally Sound; 4) Cost Effective; and 5) Visually Pleasing. 1) Functional: What do you need the space to do for you. Examples include: play area for children, garden area, kitchen patio, boat, trash, or firewood storage, utilities, dog kennels, and access to the front and backyard are just a few examples of function that you should consider. 2) Maintainable : Similar to function, maintainable addresses planning for mowing areas so you don’t have to use a trimmer, creating a screen planting to provide privacy, and planning for snow storage and ice/sand/salt usage. How large a space can you take care of. Maintenance is a huge consideration in landscape design. 3) Environmentally Sound: Addresses the need to reduce the amount of fertilizer, pesticides, equipment, water, and labor usage. Rain gardens, plants that require limited mowing and pruning, and eliminating invasive plant species are just a few examples. 4) Cost Effective: You must not only factor in the initial cost of the project but also, the cost of annual maintenance in your design both in materials as well as labor. 5) Visually Pleasing: Yes, of course it needs to look good. This consideration also gets involved with plant selection, what gardeners love doing the most. Planting the right plant that will adapt to the light, water, and soil conditions is imperative in landscape design. While the basic concepts of landscape design remain consistent year over year, design elements do change over time. Below I have listed 5 of the 10 2024 Garden Design trends by GardenDesign.com . These 5 trends seemed to be consistent but not limited to other trend articles that I reviewed: 1) “Enhancing Your Garden with Edimentals” : Edimentals are plants that usually live more than one year such as shrubs, perennials, and trees. Examples include daylilies, currants, gooseberries, elderberries, fennel and asparagus. Including annual edible plants such as kale, rainbow chard, and nasturtiums can also be considered. 2) “Exploring Naturalistic Planting & the New Perennial Movement” : This consists of primarily native plants with a less manicured look to mirror nature, but it doesn’t have to been completely unmanicured. The focus is on a blend of plants that invite pollinators and wildlife. (Read Jim Lakin’s monthly Garden Buzz articles on “native” plants for ideas about plants that are appropriate for Minnesota gardens.) 3) “Preserving Every Drop with Eco-Friendly Rain Gardens” : Yes, establishing a rain garden to limit water runoff into sewers. 4) “Learning to Love Bugs”: Reducing the use of pesticides is the trend here. Becoming more tolerant of bugs and understanding that there are beneficial insects. Note, certain bugs are attracted to specific species (i.e. monarch butterfly and milkweed, rusty patched bumble bees like lupines, asters, bee balm, native prairie plants, and spring ephemerals). But of course, there are bugs that are on the invasive list such as jumping worms, pine bark beetle, and lantern fly. 5) “Adapting and Growing with a Changing Climate” : In the last few months, the USDA published a new plant zone map. Many areas across the nation and in our neck of the woods have become hotter. Adapting for this change in your plant selection process is imperative as you look to designing your future landscape. I hope you can enjoy planning, prepping, and planting your new garden bed(s) in the next few months. Check out our website resources for many articles on the topics discussed above. And spend your January dreaming and planning for your beautiful 2024 garden. Resources: Creating a Home Landscape, You Can Love & Enjoy/Sustainable Landscape Design Basics for Homeowner, Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Workshop, James B. Calkins, Ph. D, 2022. GardenDesign.com , Research Garden Design, 2024 Trends in Garden Design by Rebecca Sweet, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service ( fws.gov ) Rusty Patched Bumble Bee https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov ; USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1,3), gartenideenherbst.blogspot.com/All Creative Commons (2)

< Back Vegetables Indigenous to North America Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota and provide some useful references for those interested in exploring this topic more thoroughly. Larry Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota. But first, let’s define some terms. Indigenous vegetables are defined as “locally-produced (usually within traditional systems), socially and culturally accepted as local foods, and eaten by previous generations or introduced for a very long time.” https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 . “A plant is “native” if it has occurred naturally for thousands of years in a region, ecosystem, or habitat without human introduction. https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native . Minnesota is home to a wide range of native and indigenous plants and vegetables each with many different cultivars. An important source for indigenous plants in Minnesota is a work by Frances Densmore - Plants Used by the Chippewa Indians , originally published in 1927 and later retitled How the Indians Use Wild Plants for Food, Medicine & Crafts . Densmore documented nearly 200 plants and their uses for food, medicine, dyes, charms, and crafts. Her work offered a firsthand look at the plants used by Indigenous communities across Minnesota. For example, she recorded the use of Spreading Dogbane for heart issues and Chokecherry bark for stomach ailments—remedies later validated by U.S. pharmacological references. Her contributions remain deeply influential today. (See references below.) While it’s easy to find general references to staple crops like beans, squash, and corn, it is more difficult to uncover exact cultivars. Densmore’ book is an excellent source for this research. Frances Densmore More recently, many organizations are attempting to identify and save seeds that are indigenous to North America. In Minnesota, environmentalist and Native American activist Winona LaDuke initiated the White Earth Land Recovery Project to protect indigenous seeds, help the community to overcome type-2 diabetes and also strengthen the community’s spiritual and cultural heritage. Other organizations that are working to catalog and conserve indigenous seeds are Seed Savers Exchange and Slow Food International’s Ark of Taste . One organization, Food Tank, has compiled a list 20 foods that are indigenous to the people in North America. Some foods on this list are familiar and some or not: but all are interesting. Acorns (California native oak trees) American Persimmon Wild Rice (Anishinaabe Manoomin) Bay of Fundy Dulse (a red seaweed from Canada) Blue Camas (Pacific Northwest, root vegetable) Candy Roaster Squash (Appalachian Mountain native) Chaya (native to Yucatan Peninsula, evergreen plant) Chiltepin Pepper (southern U.S., very spicy) Cholla Cactus Flower Buds (southwestern U.S.) Garambullo (central Mexico, sweet red or purple fruit) Highbush Cranberry (native to Alberta, Canada) Mesquite Beans (southwestern U.S.) Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads (northeastern North America) Pawpaws (largest edible fruit in North America) Ramon seed (superfood used by Mayans) Roy’s Calais Flint Corn (northern U.S. and Canada) Seminole Pumpkin (native to the Everglades) Tehucan Amaranth (indigenous to the Tehuacan Valley of Mexico) Tepary Beans (southwestern U.S.) Wild Ramps (wild onions native to eastern North America) Indigenous vegetables that are more familiar locally include beans, corn and squash. One traditional method of growing these crops is known as the “Three Sisters.” The term “Three Sisters” refers to corn, squash, and beans traditionally grown together using intercropping techniques. These plants support one another: corn offers structure, beans enrich the soil with nitrogen, and squash shades the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds. This method has been used for generations, and studies have confirmed its effectiveness. Three Sisters plots have shown significantly better soil health—including higher CO₂ respiration and nitrate levels—compared to monoculture plantings. Corn – Red Lake Corn One variety native to Minnesota is Red Lake Corn, cultivated by the Red Lake Ojibwe along Red Lake’s southern shores. This eight-rowed corn features mixed white and blue kernels, occasionally with red. It’s a distinct and culturally significant variety grown by skilled Indigenous farmers. Beans – Pole beans Cherokee Trail of Tears pole bean . The Cherokee people carried these beans with them during their forced removal from their ancestral lands, highlighting their importance as a source of sustenance and cultural identity. For purposes of the Three Sisters, look for varieties that will grow up and wrap around corn stalks. Many varieties with roots in North America are available. Squash – Cucurbita maxima Cucurbita maxima , one of the five cultivated squash species, originated over 4,000 years ago in South America. Though it favors warmer climates, some varieties have historically been grown in cooler regions like Minnesota. Frances Densmore referenced it as a basic but important food source. This long-vining plant needs full sun, fertile soil, and space to spread. Its seeds also have medicinal uses, and the fruit is versatile—great for soups, roasting, or baking. Some varieties are even grown for ornament or livestock feed. Squash, Cucurbita maxima If you are interested in growing heirloom vegetables indigenous to North America, look for Native seed companies like Seedsavers Exchange. For more information about indigenous vegetables, take a look at the references below. References https://foodtank.com/news/2016/07/indigenous-foods-historically-and-culturally-important-to-north-americ/ https://www.gardenary.com/blog/what-crops-are-actually-native-to-north-america https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 https://friendsofeloisebutler.org/pages/history/densmore.html https://www.redwingminnesota.org/dakota-densmore https://www.mnopedia.org/person/densmore-frances-1867-1957 https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/151430#page/1/mode/1up https://www.extension.iastate.edu/vegetablelab/files/research/files/farmreports-12307-herrighty.pdf https://minnesotareformer.com/2020/11/24/returning-the-three-sisters-corn-beans-and-squash-to-native-american-farms-nourishes-people-land-and-cultures/ https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/10-plants/corn https://www.redlakenationnews.com/story/2018/10/01/features/red-lake-corn/75293.html?m=true https://www.mnfuels.com/blog/88-octane/corn-on-indigenous-peoples-day/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Astragalus_crassicarpus https://identify.plantnet.org/k-world-flora/species/Cucurbita%20maxima%20Duchesne/data https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cucurbita_maxima https://minnesotagrown.com/wp-content/uploads/Winter-Squash.pdf Photo credits: www.educationthatinspires.ca (1), www.mnopedia.org (2), En.wikipedia.org (3)

< Back Ragweed – Our Favorite Weed to Hate Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you sneezing, have itchy or swollen eyes, scratchy throat or nasal congestion these days? The cause might be ragweed! Ragweed pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies or hay fever. And, it can stay with us until October! Read this informative article about how to identify and control Ragweed this season. Achoo! August is the start of back-to-school sales and ragweed season, which lasts through mid-October (ragweed season, that is!). Ragweed pollen is one of the most common causes of allergies, often called hay fever. Preen’s webpage addressing Ragweed called it “the champion of sneeze-inducing weeds” ( Preen ). Many people blame goldenrod for their allergies however all the references used in this article were clear that it is not goldenrod but ragweed that is causing all the misery. Goldenrod Symptoms of Ragweed allergies include sneezing, eyes that may be itchy or swollen, a scratchy throat, runny nose, nasal congestion and/or sinus pressure and pain, coughing, and even sleep disruptions ( Minnesota ENT ). About 10% of the population are allergic to Ragweed. Ragweed has been found across the whole country, with 17 varieties identified. There are three kinds of ragweed that grow in Minnesota: Common Ragweed ( Ambrosia artemisiifolia ), Giant Ragweed ( Ambrosia trifida), and Western Ragweed ( Ambrosia psilostachya) . The three types look different, with Giant Ragweed distinguishable due to its large size, growing up to 17-20 feet. Common Ragweed reaches a height of 2-4 feet, and Western Ragweed grows to a height of 1-3 feet. All three have distinctly different leaves. Western Ragweed leaves are hairy and are oval-lance shaped that are deeply lobed. Common Ragweed’s leaves are fernlike, and Giant Ragweed has palmately lobed leaves. The Common Ragweed has a taproot, Giant Ragweed has fibrous roots with a short tap root, and Western Ragweed has fibrous, creeping rhizomes ( Cornell CALS , Minnesota Wildflowers ). They all grow in disturbed soil, with Common Ragweed common in both rural and urban settings. Common Ragweed’s seed production, per plant, is 3,500 seeds compared to Giant Ragweed’s seed production of 10,300 seeds per plant. Seeds from both plants can live in the soil for up to 30 years, with only 50% depletion seen in 1.5 to two years ( Time to Remove Flowers, UMN IPM Extension , Common and Giant Ragweed Identification ). The seeds are dispersed through wind, water, animals (rodents and birds), and farming practices. A single Ragweed plant can produce up to a billion grains of pollen ( Preen ). Ragweed pollen travels! It has been found 400 miles out to sea and 2 miles into the air ( Minnesota ENT ). This graph from the Minnesota Department of Health (2020) shows the types of pollen and their percentages. Ragweed represented almost 60% of the pollens sampled in the air. Link: Pollen Charts, MN Department of Health All forms of Ragweed can be difficult to control. The best approach is the manual method of plant removal, especially pulling them out before August to avoid pollen release. You can also repeatedly cut them down to keep them from flowering. Herbicides are not generally recommended unless you are farming, which then requires significant applications. Ragweed plants have developed resistance to many herbicides, so if your preference is to use herbicides, it may require the use of several types and several applications. Because ragweed is one of the earliest plants to germinate in the spring (but don’t start causing problems for humans until they start flowering in August), the best method of control is to hand pull them. It is also important to remove them from the yard quickly as they can re-root if left in a debris pile. References: Bayer, Crop Sciences United States: https://www.cropscience.bayer.us/articles/channel/common-and-giant-ragweed-identification-and-management Cornell College of Agriculture and Life Sciences: https://cals.cornell.edu/weed-science/weed-profiles/giant-ragweed Minnesota Department of Health (MDH): https://data.web.health.state.mn.us/pollen_charts Minnesota Ears, Nose, and Throat (ENT) Specialists: https://minnesotaent.com/goldenrod-or-ragweed-whats-worse/ Minnesota Wildflowers: https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/common-ragweed https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/western-ragweed Missouri Department of Conservation: https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/giant-ragweed Preen: https://www.preen.com/learn/lawn-garden-tips/weed-control/weed-notes/how-to-control-ragweed/ University of Minnesota Weed Identification: https://extension.umn.edu/weed-identification/annual-broadleaf-weeds#ragweed%2C-giant-8380611 University of Minnesota Extension Fruit and Vegetable News: https://blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu/2024/08/why-remove-flowering-weeds.html University of Minnesota Extension Yard and Garden News: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/zero-seed-rain Photo Credits: Chris Evans, University of Illinois, Bugwood.org (1), www.publicdomainpictures.net (2), Strand Memorial Herbarium (3-6), https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/western-ragweed (7)

< Back Yellow Honeysuckle (Lonicera flava) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener One benefit of climate change is that it allows us to grow plants that have previously been out of our growing zone. One of those plants is Yellow Honeysuckle (Lonicera flava). A Zone 5 plant, Yellow Honeysuckle is likely to grow well in the southern part of Minnesota. As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains in this article, Yellow Honeysuckle is a beautiful, vining plant that you should consider for your garden. Although Lonicera flava is not usually native to Minnesota, it does grow wild in Illinois and Iowa. With climate change, it would be well worth your while to give this beauty a go. Yellow honeysuckle should do well in the southern part of the state which is rapidly becoming USDA region 5. In the Twin Cities, planting in a fairly sheltered area would be prudent. You folks up in Duluth probably are doomed to disappointment. Once established, Lonicera flava is a hardy fellow through Zone 5 and should give years of spectacular yellow flowers in the mid to late spring. Yellow honeysuckle is a long-lived native perennial. It does best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Beware, however. This sunlight reduction will reduce the number and intensity of blooms. As the vine grows some 10 to 20 feet upwards, you will want to plant it adjacent to a trellis, fence or other sturdy support. A three to six foot spacing between plants is recommended. For the first season after planting, you will want to keep the plant moist although subsequently Lonicera flava is moderately drought resistant. A good covering of mulch helps a lot. Speaking of mulch, it is a good idea to mulch yellow honeysuckle heavily in winter especially in more northerly regions. Don’t heap the mulch around the stem, however, to avoid encouraging rot. The vine also tends to be disease resistant, although occasionally aphids will camp out on the leaves. It also is not the first choice of deer or rabbits on the buffet line. In short, it is a low maintenance plant. Although yellow honeysuckle will fit into most any landscaping scheme, it looks great in an informal or naturalized setting, especially as a border plant in woodlands. It forms tubular, fragrant trumpet-shaped flowers in whorls which attract hummingbirds and many butterfly species with their nectar. The plant will form small round orange to red berries in the late summer into the fall, providing food for birds and many small mammals. Thus, yellow honeysuckle is a big plus to the ecology of your garden. Photo Credits: elmostreport.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons)), Missouri Dept. Conservation (2)

< Back Incorporate Vertical Gardening into Your Garden Space Spring has arrived and we can begin to implement the garden plans that we developed during the winter months. As you planned your garden, did you consider how to use vertical as well as horizontal space? Will you have plants requiring support? Do you want to expand your garden space by utilizing vertical as well as the horizontal space available? Vertical plantings can also add visual elements that enhance the beauty of the garden over and above the appearance of the plants themselves. This article provides important information about why you might want to include vertical plantings in your garden and how to do so successfully through various types of trellising. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Green tomato trellis As you are planning your garden, an important consideration is how to use vertical as well as horizontal space. Will there be plants requiring support? Do you want to expand your garden space by utilizing vertical as well as the horizontal space available? Vertical plantings can also add visual elements that enhance the beauty of the garden over and above the appearance of the plants themselves. Incorporating trellises into your garden space may be an option to consider in response to all these considerations. Many plants benefit from the support provided by trellises. Tomatoes, pole beans, and melons are great examples. The plants benefit from airflow around the plants. The plants and their fruit receive more exposure to the sun that helps the fruit ripen. By securing the plants above the ground you can reduce the risk of exposure to various pests thus reducing the need for pesticides. And if additional interventions are needed, it is easier to pick off the pests, or spray or dust with pesticides or herbicides. Vertical gardening is also a way to expand what you can produce in a limited space. Instead of using a larger footprint there is space to grow other plants. In addition, trellises simplify weeding by moving the plant from the ground. They also reduce the need to kneel down to harvest by moving the vegetables to eye level. When you have decided to include trellises in your garden, you need to decide what kind. There are a many different types of trellises available for purchase. Here are examples of cages and flat trellises. Cages are used with tomatoes, squash, melons, and other vegetables. Two-foot diameter cages fashioned from wood or wire allow for easy trellising and harvest. Hog-wire, woven wire panels, or concrete reinforcing wire can be used. Each comes in a 4-inch square grid. These materials have the strength necessary to support healthy vines with heavy fruit. For ease of plant management, cage your vegetable plants at planting and train the vines to the inside of the cage as they grow. flat green trellis on apartment balcony However, homemade vertical plant supports are also an option. There are an infinite number of ways of creating homemade supports. When designing a trellis, a primary consideration is assuring that the structure will be able to support the plant when the plant is mature and full of its blossoms or vegetables. With that in mind a trellis for cucumbers or melons needs to be stronger than that to be used for beans or peas. Flowers such as peonies will also benefit from trellising. A trellis for peonies should be somewhere between the strength needed for melons and that needed for beans. vertical wooden trellis in a garden The primary support can be provided by PVC pipes, bamboo stakes, wooden or steel fence posts, to name a few options. Chemically treated wood should be avoided to prevent the possible harmful impact on the plants. The type of plant dictates how you will need to secure the plant to the trellis. Beans and peas create tendrils that will twine to the structure. However, tomatoes and other plants need to be tied. Choose wires, nylon or polypropylene cording should be selected instead of cotton to tie to the supports since these options won’t stretch. vertical trellis made with PVC pipe A vertical trellis can be built by setting sturdy support posts about 2 feet into the ground. The tops of the posts should be about 6 feet above the soil surface. Stretch a heavy wire, barbed wire, cable, or wooden two-by-four between the tops of the posts and another, if desired, between the bases of the supports, near the soil. One trellising method is to drop vertical twines from the upper support down to each plant. A double wire works especially well as a support here because it prevents twine from slipping to the center as the top wire sags with the weight of the plants. Tie the vertical support to the base of each plant or to a bottom wire, if one is used. As plants grow, wrap them around the twine for support or tie or clip them to the twine using plastic clips that greenhouse tomato growers use (see Resources ). Another trellising method uses nylon mesh or hog wire with a 4-inch square grid. Either material can be attached to the upright stakes and upper supports to provide trellising. With this method as well, use ties or clips to train the vines to the mesh as they grow. When using wire mesh for trellising, check that the fruit does not imbed itself into the wire. Support can also be provided by existing structures such as building walls or fences. Trellises can also beautify these structures. trellis on side of house, showing several rectangular structures, screening material and a plant growing up the side wooden trellis on side of house, with wire caging near ground and plant growing up the side In the online article, Trellising, Staking, and Caging, Vertical Gardening Techniques for Vine-Type Vegetables , the Wisconsin Horticulture Division of their Extension program provides the following details for constructing plant supports: Staking requires 5 to 6-foot wooden, metal, or plastic stakes made with PVC pipe, electrical conduit, bamboo stakes, galvanized pipe, or wooden or steel fence posts. Wooden stakes should be at least 1 inch square. Again, do not use chemically treated wood . Metal stakes can be of smaller diameter and have the advantage of lasting many years. Vines can be tied to single stakes, or three or four stakes can be grouped and secured at the top to form a tripod structure, with vines trained to climb each pole. Another method is to weave a wire, cording, or wood such as saplings and branches between the tripod stakes and train vines to climb along the woven material and up the tripod structure. tripod formed by stakes tied together in large garden The stake-and-weave method (photo below) is an alternative system to support plants in a row. Stakes are spaced about every 6 feet. Use polypropylene or nylon cording (it doesn't stretch like cotton or hemp products): tie the cord to the first stake about 6 to 10 inches above the ground. Run the cord to the second stake and wrap it around the stake once at the same level; be sure to keep the cord tight. Repeat this process, going on to the third, fourth, and remaining stakes until you reach the end of the row. Come back with the cord on the opposite side of the stakes, wrapping it around each stake. Plants are held in the space between the cords; this will help support plants that do not form tendrils, such as tomatoes. Repeat this process as plants grow so the branches are always held between the cording. Three to five runs down the row should be enough for the season. If the woven cording begins to stretch apart, tie the parallel cords together about midway between the stakes for added plant support. While this method is very successful with tomato plants, be sure to prune out the suckers as the plants grow in order to reduce the foliage that must be supported. diagram of stake-and-weave system There are many reasons to consider vertical gardening in your yard and there are many different methods and tools to do so. Whether your trellis is handmade, store-bought, plain or fancy, the important thing is that it is sufficient to do its main job – supporting your plant. References: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/trellising-staking-and-caging-vertical-gardening-techniques-vine-type-vegetables/ https://extension.k-state.edu/news-and-publications/news/stories/2025/04/horticulture-vertical-garden.html https://lancaster.unl.edu/vertical-gardening-makes-most-small-garden-footprint/ Photo Credits: Linda Stein (1-6), University of Wisconsin Extension (7)

< Back Pizza Anyone? Pizza Anyone? Why does my pizza taste so good? Home grown herbs – fresh pizza seasonings! Don’t forget to grow those incredible herbs with your children or grandchildren in a fun way that can be used not only this summer (if you are already growing herbs), but throughout the year. Read on to learn how to grow, harvest and preserve basil, parsley and oregano. Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Why does my pizza taste so good? Home grown herbs – fresh pizza seasonings! Don’t forget to grow those incredible herbs with your children or grandchildren in a fun way that can be used not only this summer, but throughout the year. Introducing how to create the containers and then grow, harvest and preserve basil, parsley and oregano. Pizza is one of the favorite foods of children and adults alike. What can be better than to help your children or grandchildren grow their own seasonings for their pizza? Basil, parsley and oregano can be started inside or outside and can be directly sown or grown from seed or a plant starter from a store. Supplies Needed: (3) terra cotta pots/saucers (4” or smaller) Small bag of potting soil Oregano, Basil, Parsley Seeds or Plants Plant Markers (purchased or create from craft sticks) Optional: acrylic paint, brushes Preparing the containers for planting: Choose three 4” clay terra cotta pots and saucers. Find colorful acrylic paints, small paint brushes and a cup of water for rinsing brushes. Painting the clay pots is optional, but it is a fun activity for kids/adults to be creative and decorate each herb container - it also adds a pop of color. The herb names (Basil, Oregano and Parsley) can also be painted onto the terra cotta pots. (Purchased labels can be used or simple labels can be created with craft sticks as well.) Paint or Decorate containers & labels as desired - let dry before planting (for the younger painters - use an old large t-shirt as a paint smock and cover surfaces) How to turn herb seeds/plant starters into pizza seasonings? Fill (3) terra cotta pots with potting soil - moisten with water and you are ready to plant Plant herb seeds (each herb in one container separately) as directed on package OR Plant herb starter plants into the terra cotta pots. Make a hole or opening in the soil and place the starter into the opening. Press soil around the starter plant. Mist the soil or water as needed (terra cotta pots can dry out quickly so monitor the moisture needed). Place containers in a sunny location outside or place in a bright window sill or under grow lights. 6 to 8 hours of sunlight is needed per day (8-12 hours if growing inside under a grow light) Monitor daily - keep seeds moist, but not too wet and monitor for germination Be patient and watch for signs of growth Once herbs are growing they may be pinched back so that they do not become leggy - harvesting can also help in keeping the plant happy and healthy Continue to harvest the herbs and use fresh on pizza - “Home Grown Herbs” - Yummy! (Herbs can also be dried and/or frozen (ex. - basil can be turned into a pesto and frozen) and can be used throughout the year.) Photo Credits : Photo 1, pearlspowder.blogspot.com (all creative commons) Photo 2, www.desperategardener.com (all creative commons) Photo 3, www.theidearoom.net (all creative commons) Photo 4, www.pxfuel.com (all creative commons)

< Back Seeds of Wonder - Planting Seeds with Children Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener There’s a sense of wonder from all ages when a small seed becomes a plant before our very eyes. I found myself browsing the seed rack at the nursery on a dreary day at the end of December and a fellow shopper walked by, smiled and said, “feeling optimistic?” Well, yes. Seed packets are a pretty affordable envelope of optimism - and one we can certainly share with children! Britannica dictionary offers these two definitions of a seed: ‘A small object produced by a plant from which a new plant can grow’ and ‘the beginning of something which continues to develop or grow.’ So, when we incorporate seeds into a fun activity with kids, we are quite literally starting at the beginning to grow plants! How to get going? Well, gather a few things: Seeds With kids, I like to select slightly bigger seeds they can handle (though you can broadcast seeds with a salt shaker if they are small). I also look at the germination time on the packet - fewer days of germination get them closer to seeing growth on their young seedlings. For example, the back of the seed packet for this “Cat Grass,” avena sativa, indicates sprouting in 5-10 days, and the plant is “ready” in 10-15 days. Not instant gratification but results come pretty quickly. Growing medium This is what we plant the seeds in. There are several options available, but I usually pick up a bag of “Seedling Mix” from various suppliers. Seeds already come with the energy and nutrition they need to sprout, so they really just need a friendly place to grow. Container Pick one that drains water so the seeds don’t get water logged and rot. I’ve used trays marketed for seeding, yogurt cups with holes poked in the bottom and small terra cotta pots. I like repurposing plastic berry containers because they already have drainage holes (a coffee filter placed in the bottom will allow water through but hold in the growing medium) AND the lids act as little greenhouses to help with humidity in the air around the seeds. Once the seeds sprout, just open the container up so the seedlings have room to grow. Water A great way to start the seeds off with water is to place some growing medium in a bowl and have your child stir with a large spoon while one of you adds water, a little at a time, until the soil clumps but isn’t soggy. Then, add the moistened soil to the container, ready to plant the seeds. Once the seeds are in, a spray bottle or mister (as basic or fancy as you wish, the plants don’t care!) makes for a fun activity each day for kids to keep the seeds from drying out as they are germinating. A planting “tool” like a spoon or scoop helps, though some kids like to just use their hands and that’s perfectly ok. Planting Time (Caregivers may want to protect activity surfaces - seed planting can get messy!) 1. Using a tray underneath, fill the container part way with growing medium, such as Seedling Mix. 2. Look at the seed packet for planting depth and spacing. In this example, seeds should be broadcast (scattered) on the surface and gently pressed into the growing medium. These seeds can sprout right on top, but if seeds are to be planted at 1/4 inch, you’d scatter another 1/4 inch of growing medium on top of the seeds. 3. Spray the top of the growing medium and seeds to help settle and hydrate. 4. Find a bright spot to place your planted container, keep the growing medium from drying out, and watch for your sprouts to appear! I tried these seeds both in a shallow container, from which I will move seedlings to a larger container once they are about 2” high per the packet instructions, and also in a small terra cotta pot that can hold bigger seedlings. You can do your own “experiment’ with your child to see what happens to seeds planted in different containers. Within 2 weeks, the seeding project becomes another activity: Using age-appropriate scissors, a child can “harvest” their crop - in this case cat grass that will continue to grow. They may also like giving the plant a “haircut” and using the trimmings in imaginative play or art projects. Plants can be grown to stay inside. Others can be gradually moved to an outdoor pot or garden when the warm weather is here. The first amazing step is watching the transformation of seeds into tiny seedling plants. Here are some other plants with shorter seed germination times: Marigolds Lettuce Peas Basil Calendula Have fun together seeing the plants that can grow from those tiny seeds! Looking for some reading to learn more about plant seeds? Check out these books available through Dakota County Library Seeds Go, Seeds Grow by Mark Weakland. "Simple text and photographs explain the basic science behind seeds” (Dakota County Library) A seed is the start by Melissa Stewart. “ Beautiful photography and lyrical text pair with comprehensive picture captions in award-winning author Melissa Stewart’s story about the surprisingly diverse world of seeds. Learn all about the plant cycle, from how seeds grow, the fascinating ways they travel, and what it takes for a seed to become a plant.” (Dakota County Library) A Seed is Sleepy by Dianna Hutts Aston ; illustrated by Sylvia Long. “ This book offers children a beautiful and informative look at the intricate, complex, and often surprising world of seeds. An informative introduction to seeds.” (Dakota County Library) Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1, 2, 3, 4, ), Book jackets (5, 6, 7)

< Back Black Chokeberry: Showy but Well-Behaved Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As the snow starts to melt and a few green tufts of grass peak out, it’s a great time to start thinking about planting native shrubs. If you have an area that needs screening for privacy, a walkway or border to delineate, a property line that needs a hedge, you would do well to think about a native shrub. Over the next three months we’ll talk about some great options. One very attractive choice is black chokeberry ( Aronia melanocarpa ). A. melanocarpa has been quite popular with the dietetically conscious in that it is rich in antioxidants and, even better, will not make you choke. Although it does have a distinct aftertaste which some find bracing and others, not so much. With the right recipe, the berries can make a tasty jam or jelly. In any event, you don’t need to eat the plant to enjoy it. It is an attractive woody perennial which is well behaved. It makes a great ornamental shrub, especially for a traditional garden. May flowers Black chokeberry grows in the wild from eastern Minnesota and northeastern Iowa eastwards across the Midwest. It is cold tolerant from Zone 3 to 8. Although it grows naturally on sandy soils it can easily be transplanted to a variety of environments ranging from sand to clay. It does well in full sun to light shade. Once established, black chokeberry produces, in May, clusters of attractive, showy white flowers with pink stamens that rise above the petals. They go on to form inky, glossy black fruit in late summer. The berries remain on the shrub through the winter providing interest against the snow. The leaves are usually a deep shimmering green which transforms into bright red in fall, setting off the glossy black fruit. Black chokeberry usually grows 3 to 6 feet tall. Although it is a well-behaved shrub, it will send off root suckers to form colonies. If you are going for a more formal look they can be easily removed. Ripe Fruit Black chokeberry is usually a very low maintenance plant once established. It is disease resistant to most blights although occasional leaf spot is sometimes seen. It is a versatile landscape plant which can be used in formal gardens although it also does well for naturalizing where suckering is not an issue. Its tolerance of boggy soils makes it a great addition to pond or stream margins. There are several cultivars available in nurseries. “Professor Ed” is one notable. Often , on-line sites specializing in native perennials of the Midwest can provide hearty specimens. black chokeberry in a naturalized setting Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2,3)

< Back Butternut Squash – The Best Flavor of All Winter Squash? December marks the beginning of winter – the time of year when winter squash seems like just the right vegetable to enjoy. Butternut squash is often described as having the best flavor of all winter squash. After you enjoy eating butternut squash this winter, you will want to grow some of your own next spring. Read on to learn how to grow butternut squash successfully. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener How to Grow Butternut squash Soil is the first consideration when growing vegetables. It is always a good idea to start with having your soil tested. The University of Minnesota has a testing service than can be accessed here . For best yield and quality, the soil pH range for vine crops is between 6.0 and 6.5, which is slightly acidic. Raised beds are recommended as they ensure good drainage. You can seed vine crops directly into the garden, but they need warm soils of about 65°tested at 2” down. Follow directions on the butternut squash seed package for seed depth and row spacing. To start your butternut squash inside, plant seeds in pots or cells at least two inches wide and deep. Seedlings take about four weeks from seeding to planting out. They need two to three true leaves before transplanting. Harden off seedlings started indoors before planting them in soil that is at least 65°F Read more about starting seeds indoors at this University of Minnesota Extension website. Now that your squash is in the ground, they need at least one inch of water each week. Trellised plants may require watering more often. Water deeply by using a drip hose, soaker hose or careful watering of the soil making sure to keep the leaves dry. Poor fruit set and tasteless fruit can be due to rainy, cloudy or cold weather, when pollinators are not active. Heavy rainfalls can lead to oedema, which causes scabby, raised bumps on the fruit. If you want to use mulch, such as straw or compost to control weeds, wait until the soil is at least 75°F because the mulch can inhibit further warming. When the vines start to spread out, side dress with high-nitrogen fertilizer. Consult your soil test for amounts. The first blossoms often drop from the vines. This is not a problem, since the first blossoms are male, the female flowers, which open later, have a swelling at the base called the ovary. After pollination, the fruit develops. After your butternut squash is ripe, pick it before a hard freeze for best results. A light frost that kills the vine will usually not harm the fruit. Cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a few inches of stem attached. Be careful not to cut or bruise the fruit. After cutting squash from the vines, you should “field-cure” them in place for a week or two in dry, sunny weather. This dries and toughens the skin for longer storage. If the weather becomes cold or rainy, cure the squash indoors in a well-ventilated, warm (80°F) place. Storage Winter squash should be stored in a cool (55°F) place, with good air movement. If you don’t have a good place to store them, you can freeze mashed squash, dry slices in a dehydrator, or can it. Check this site for more information about preserving winter squash. Butternut squash can be made into many dishes, from soups to roasted or candied cubes. Check out our Garden to Kitchen article this month for a mouth-watering squash recipe. Bon appétit! Photo and Drawing Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,3)