< Back What’s the Buzz about Bee Lawns? Marjory Blare, Master Gardener You may have heard about bee lawns on the news or from a friend or at a county park. And, you may be wondering what that is and why you might want to plant one in your yard. Read this article about bee lawns to help you decide if planting one is right for you. Annual Red Clover Did you know that about 1/3 of the plant-based foods that humans eat are insect pollinated? But pollinators are in trouble due to habitat loss, pesticides and parasites. Butterflies, wasps, flies, soldier beetles, and moths are also in jeopardy. A pollinator lawn provides the high-quality nutrition that pollinators need to survive. A bee lawn can attract over 50 species of bee! A bee lawn integrates low-growing flowering perennials with grasses. They require fewer pesticides, less fertilizer, water and mowing than a traditional lawn. Grasses in bee lawns can include grasses already present in your lawn, but, adding fine fescues and Buffalo grass will reduce the number of mowings needed per year and make the lawn more drought tolerant. “Strong creeping red fescue,” “slender creeping red fescue,” “chewings fescue,” “hard fescue” and “sheep fescue” can be grown with other cool-season grasses in full sun to shaded areas. Red Fescue Another alternative to cool-season grasses are sedges. However, they don’t take as well to mowing. Pennsylvania sedge grows to about 6”. Pennsylvania Sedge White clover springs to mind when thinking of bees, but there are several other good candidates that will spread out the flowering season from spring through fall. “Self-Heal” (Prunella) and “creeping thyme” and “birds foot trefoil” are non-natives that should not be planted near a wild area, but can be used in urban areas. “Ground plum,” “sweet white violets” and “common blue violets” are native alternatives. Self-Heal and Creeping Thyme Bee lawns can be treated similarly to lightly-used traditional lawns. They can be mowed (or not) at 3” or higher and take light foot traffic. Some examples of good places to plant bee lawns are: boulevards, steep slopes, primarily aesthetic areas, rights of way and easements. There are at least two ways to plant bee lawns. One is to start with bare soil (be aware that this area will have a “seed bank” of weeds.) and the other is to overseed. In certain cases, plugs might be a better choice. Click here for information on planting a bee lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/planting-and-maintaining-bee-lawn And here are some additional sites to help you get started on your bee lawn: Here is a site to find bee lawn seed: https://turf.umn.edu/lawn-info/purchasing-seed/bee-lawn-seed Click here to get signage for your lawn: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2021-05/Lawns%20to%20Legumes%20yard%20signs_Final_Single_2020_edits_smalllink_new_0.pdf Click here to see the Lawn to Legumes site and apply for a grant to help with expenses: https://bwsr.state.mn.us/l2l Here is a webinar discussing the ins and outs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEiEoSC60Ss Your lawn can “Bee” the change! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,2,3), University of Minnesota Extension (4,5)

< Back Spring in September Plan Now to Start 2025 Blooming in Color Spring begins this month! I know, it’s September, but on a gardener’s calendar, this is the month to begin planning for an awakening of eagerly blooming sprouts and a palette of spring colors. Whether you are a “bulb-beginner” like me or a bulb enthusiast looking to expand on some gardening ideas, continue reading as we discuss the what, where, when, how, and why of spring blooming bulbs with a few design tips planted along the way. Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern September marks the beginning of fall and so it’s time to start planting. What? Spring bulbs, of course. Sure, you may be a bit weary of gardening this time of year but before you put your gardening tools away, take out that trowel one last time and plant some spring bulbs. Why plant spring blooming bulbs? After a long Minnesota winter, the flowers of spring bulbs provide a great wealth of color in a variety of flower and leaf designs - an unabashed welcome to spring against the monochromatic color of the final days of winter. When? There are different kinds of bulbs. Spring blooming bulbs are planted in the fall of the previous year. Summer blooming bulbs are planted in the spring of the same year. This article will only focus on spring blooming bulbs, also known as hardy bulbs. Examples of hardy bulbs are tulips, daffodils, iris, crocus and lilies. The local garden centers will have a selection of spring blooming bulbs beginning this month. Now through October is the ideal time when you should plant these bulbs (although they can be planted until the first frost). Make sure the bulbs are clean and solid, without mold, rot, cuts and bruising. When healthy bulbs are properly planted and cared for, spring blooming bulbs will give you years of enjoyment. Tulip, daffodil, crocus bulbs Before you plant your spring bulbs, consider where to plant them in your garden. Begin by taking pictures of your flower gardens throughout the seasons and take note of the sun and shade exposure throughout the days. This will help you determine what to plant and where to plant your bulbs as your existing plants progress through their own unique life cycles. Pictures will also aid in determining what plants to thin out and what plants to transplant along with spacing when the time is right. My annual red petunias had a happy southwest-facing summer taking a front row seat to my colorful perennials but will soon relinquish their small plot of soil. My bountiful hydrangea and Black Eyed Susans, swaying feather reed grass, and my prickly Japanese barberry will then become a beautiful backdrop to groupings of snowdrops and allium . Both will be the ideal height ranging from three to eight inches. (Note that there are different sizes of allium ranging from short to quite tall, so look closely before you buy.) Snowdrops will bloom as early as March and allium will follow in May giving time for their surrounding neighbors to grow into full fruition, blooming in all their glory from June through fall. It is always important to read the packaging to know how to plant the bulbs. Planting depths may range from three inches to twelve inches. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, “[g]enerally, plant bulbs two to three times deeper than their diameter. This will vary with the type of soil.” If you want to do advance soil preparation, do a soil sample test of the area you will plant your bulbs. Keep in mind that the turnaround for results may take up to three weeks, so plan accordingly. This will give you time to shop for bulbs. After you have evenly spread the final layer of soil, watered thoroughly, laid chicken wire to ward off hungry squirrels and other wildlife, spread a layer of mulch, and labeled your plantings, take one final picture. Document your work so you can relish in the before and after pictures come next spring. During the stillness of the upcoming holiday months, you will be free to consider your color theme for annual hanging baskets or planters for the upcoming year ahead. You can also explore the possibility of summer blooming bulbs as you await with anticipation your spring bulbs in blooming color. REFERENCES: https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/annualsbulbs/bulbs-101 https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTXODhmkJS0 Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,4,5), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back Healthy Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Believe it or not, fall is the best time to repair your existing lawn. And, with climate weather changes, it is also a good time to consider what type of lawn you want to have in the future. Sometimes it can be perplexing as to where to begin. If you are interested in lawn care, please read this article. With climate change, doing the same lawn care, may not yield the same results. The first step is to evaluate your existing yard. Evaluate your existing yard status. What type of soil do you have? Through the U of MN Extension, you can get a soil text. See this website for details. https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden Are some areas of your lawn difficult to mow because they are on a slope? Should you consider replacing this part of the lawn into a pollinator garden with some shrubs and/or pollinator flowers or create a no-mow bee lawn? What type of sun do you have on the various areas of your lawn? There are grass seed mixes for Shade, Part-Sun, and Sunny areas. Not all grass seed works for every section of your yard. Many nurseries have various seed mixes available for sale. Prior to spending money on seed, take stock as to what type of sun/shade is in each area and measure the dimensions so you know how much seed to buy. If you are renovating areas of your yard, question why the existing grass did not thrive? Shady areas especially dense shade is hard to maintain grass. Fine fescue grasses work best in shady areas, but if it is really dense, even that may not grow thick. Another option is to create a pathway and plant some native shade plants instead of having a lawn. You can even consider sedges. What areas of your yard get walked on a lot or have damage from pets? The type of grass mix you put down can make a difference for those areas. Critters such as voles and moles can be a lawn culprit. For more info about voles/moles, go to this link. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage Do you have areas of your yard that get excessive salt from the road or driveway? You may need to prep the soil differently in those areas prior to planting or even consider a rain garden bed in those areas. How much work are you interested in doing to maintain your yard? Watering and mowing are a lot of resources. Should you consider a fine fescue grass mix that uses less water and doesn’t need to be mowed as often or potentially a bee lawn? There are lots of things to consider before starting on your lawn renovation. Sometimes it is easier if you take just a section of your yard at a time. It does not need to be done in one season. The U of MN Extension has a Lawn Care Calendar that focuses on what months are best to plant seeds, when to fertilize, and when to lay down seed. See this link for the calendar. As stated early, late August to Early September is the best time to put down new grass seed if you are starting a new area specially. Spring is the second-best time. But if you are wanting to thicken or repair your lawn, putting down seed in late October to November (once it is too cold for grass to germinate) is great for dormant seeding. Preparing the soil for lawn repair. Does your grass have an excessive amount of dead grass called thatch that is killing the grass? If so, it might need to be dethatched before applying new seed. Grass seed has to have contact with the dirt to be successful in germination. Dethatching machines can be rented for large areas. Hand raking works for small repairs. If you have clay soil, sometimes, you need to consider aerating your lawn on a periodic basis (annually or every few years). This can be done by renting a machine that will remove soil plugs from your lawn. Once the lawn has been prepped, laying down seed is the next step. Seeding in late August to September requires consistent watering when the soil is dry (several times a day). Dormant seeding in November does not require watering. The seed will germinate in early Spring. Purchasing sod is another option for new lawns especially but is more expensive and still requires consistent watering in the early stages. There are many things to consider with lawn care maintenance and repair. This website has additional information if you are interested in learning more. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension 1,2,3,4

< Back The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Who knew that the life of an “agricultural explorer” could be both fascinating and suspenseful. Read this review of book, “The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats” to learn why food exploration can be exciting! Reviewed By Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener A century ago, the American table was a simpler place. Vegetables and fruit were limited to what could be grown in the home garden or found in a grocery store. Some of the items missing from that world? Kale, mangoes, avocados, seedless grapes, zucchini, soybeans, pistachios, Meyer lemons, and more. Then along came botanist David Fairchild (1869-1954), the Indiana Jones of the plant world. In his book The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats (2018), author David Stone uses Fairchild’s journals, letters, and photographs to document the extraordinary journeys of the man who changed American culinary life forever. This is a riveting tale of exploration and horticulture, of espionage and diplomacy, of the finest German hops and the famed cherry blossom trees of Washington, D.C. Fairchild’s story takes him from Kansas to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, where he works with a meager budget assisting the American farmer fighting crop fungus. Then a chance meeting with a wealthy benefactor named Barbour Lathrop allows the young man to leave his post and travel as a private citizen, circling the globe on a mission to ship back samples of exotic plants and seeds as an “agricultural explorer,” as he refers to himself. Fairfield’s team transports both plants completely new and foreign varieties of species already known in the United States. Along the way, Fairchild and his team escape dangerous situations, face political resistance from multiple governments, and cross paths with famous figures like the Wright Brothers and Alexander Graham Bell. When Fairchild settles down at the age of 34, he founds the Office of Seed and Plant Introduction with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which introduces over 200,000 new plant species and varieties to the country. This book is highly recommended to foodies, gardeners, and history buffs alike. It can be found in the Dakota County Library system.

< Back The Ws (plus an H) of Bulbs The great thing about planting bulbs is that they will bloom year after year. Here's what you need to know to grow bulbs successfully in your garden and look forward to early spring color. Marjorie Blare, Master Gardener Who should plant bulbs? You! Why plant bulbs? Bulbs can provide color all in all three seasons and many bulbs will return year after year. Most bulbs prefer full sun but some bulbs even thrive in shade! What are bulbs and what kinds to plant? What we loosely call bulbs are actually a group containing: true bulbs (Tulips, lilies), corms (Crocus), rhizomes (Callas, Iris) and tuberous roots (Dahlias, Tuberous begonias). All of these plants have a self-contained food storage system that has adapted to living underground. Bulbs are either hardy (perennial) or tender (need to be dug and stored) and this will determine where you plant them. Most people are familiar with Tulips, Daffodils and Lilies. All of these come in early, mid-and late season, as well as short medium and tall. There are a host of small bulbs that are often overlooked. Many of these will grow well in areas under trees because they flower before the tree leaves out. Where should I plant bulbs? Most bulbs should be planted in full sun. They don't like wet feet. Most bulbs will do well in soils ranging from sandy to clay. Jack-in-the-Pulpits, Trillium, Tuberous begonias and Martagon lilies are bulbs that will grow in the shade. How do I plant bulbs? Dig a hole two to three times deeper than the bulb's circumference. Amend the soil with organic matter. You may have heard of putting bone meal in the hole, don't do this unless you have a soil test ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) that shows your soil needs calcium and phosphorous. According to the University of Colorado, bone meal will only be available to plants in soil that has a pH level of 7 or lower. Dakota County soils tend to be naturally high in phosphorous. Make sure to plant bulbs deeper if your soil is sandy. Putting a wire barrier over the bulbs may deter digging critters. It is recommended to plant odd numbers of bulbs for aesthetics. Smaller bulbs can be planted on top of larger bulbs, rather like a fruit cake. When do I plant bulbs? Bulbs can be planted from late September through late October in Minnesota. If you are dividing bulbs, wait for the foliage to dry, but you can move them immediately. Some bulbs, such as lilies, can be moved “in the green”, as long as they are done blooming, and are taken care of through any dry, hot weather. If you wish to overwinter tender bulbs, plant them where it will be easy to dig them in the fall. For more information go to https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes For information on growing bulbs indoors go to https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors . Happy Planting! Photo credits: Carolyn Plank (1), Deborah Snow (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back Hydrangeas – An Essential Garden Classic Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The Hydrangea shrub is a classic garden staple because of its hardiness and beautiful blooms. Shopping for Hydrangea at your local garden store can be overwhelming because there are many different varieties of this lovely perennial shrub. This article describes the different varieties, their characteristics and care needs. Read on to learn more about which hydrangeas would work well in your yard. Hydrangea is a hardy and popular shrub that thrives in Minnesota’s climate. They provide beautiful flowers later in the season and large attractive leaves in a shape that provides excellent structure in your garden. When choosing hydrangea, it is important to note that they are not all the same. The different varieties have different characteristics and care needs. This article will discuss the features and needs of four different types of hydrangeas. Hydrangea paniculata have cone shaped flowers that change from light green to deep pink and then tan flower heads in the fall. The flower heads provide landscape interest during the winter and make beautiful indoor flower arrangements all winter. Paniculata ‘s flowers are not susceptible to frost damage because they bloom on new wood. Hydrangea paniculata can grow to 7 feet tall. Pruning should be delayed until late winter or early spring. The pruning cut or head cut, should be ¼” above the swollen bud. Click here for more information about pruning hydrangeas from the University of Minnesota Extension. Fertilize in spring and early summer with a general garden fertilizer. Favorite panicle hydrangeas are: Quick Fire (H paniculata ‘Bulk’) Limelight (H paniculata ‘limelight’) First additions, Berry White (H paniculata ‘Reuba’) Hydrangea macrophylla , “big leaf hydrangea” or “mophead hydrangea,” is a zone 5 plant that can do well in southern Minnesota. It typically grows 3 – 6 feet tall and wide and produces large clusters of long-blooming flowers either in lacecap or mophead form. Blooms are pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils and blue in highly acidic soils. Hydrangea macrophylla blooms on old and new wood. Prune hydrangea macrophylla in early fall after they are done flowering with a diagonal cut ¼” above the bud. The Endless Summer ( H. macrophylla ‘Bailmer’ ) cultivar is an exception; this cultivar blooms on last year’s wood and new wood. This variety will bloom whether it is pruned or not. Prune in August after flowering. Fertilize three times a season with small amounts beginning in the early spring. Popular varieties are: Blushing Bride Bloom Struck Summer Crush Twist ‘n Shout Hydrangea aborescens or “smooth hydrangea” needs to grow several seasons before pruning. It has giant white flower heads that bloom in mid-summer. They turn green when dry. They typically grow 3 – 6 feet. Apply one application of fertilizer in late winter or early spring. When the shrub is established, prune it to the ground in the spring. Flower buds grow on this season’s growth or new wood. Examples of Hydrangea aborescens or smooth hydrangeas are: Annabelle (H. aborescens ‘Annabelle’) (a classic) Invincible mini mauvette (H. aborescens) Incrediball (H. aborescens ‘Abetwo’) (bred to have stronger stem strength) Hydrangea petolaris or climbing hydrangea is a tough wood vine that produces large clusters of white flowers. It likes full sun to part shade and acidic soil. This sturdy vine can grow 30-50 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide. Plant this vine on a sturdy trellis or fence where you want to have a dense long-living screen. Once established, this vine can be aggressive. Climbing hydrangea needs to no pruning. Only prune out the dead wood stems. Types of climbing hydrangea: Miranda Silver lining Flying Saucer Other facts to know about hydrangeas care: Sunlight: Most hydrangeas like morning sun and afternoon shade. Most will not bloom if planted in full shade. Fertilizer: General garden fertilizer is adequate for hydrangea. Water: Over or underwatering will result in fewer blooms. Test the soil with your finger and don’t water if the soil is wet. Soil Nutrients: A lush bush plant with no blooms is a sign of too much nitrogen. Check to see if lawn fertilizer is getting into the soil. Lawn fertilizers are high in nitrogen. Pruning: Over pruning and pruning in the spring can cause a hydrangea to skip blooming. Pruning in late spring can cut off too many buds. Weather: Late freezes can damage new buds and be the reason for no blooms. Hydrangea is a beautiful shrub along a foundation or as an anchor for a perennial bed. Be sure to read the height information that accompanies your shrub. Individual Hydrangeas have different leaf structure, bloom size, and colors. This shrub is easy to grow. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-4) Resources : University of Minnesota, extension.umn.edu/hydrangea Monrovia, Monrovia.com Missouri Botanical Garden.org https://www.thespruce.com/climbing-hydrangea-vines-2132893

< Back Butternut Squash – The Best Flavor of All Winter Squash? December marks the beginning of winter – the time of year when winter squash seems like just the right vegetable to enjoy. Butternut squash is often described as having the best flavor of all winter squash. After you enjoy eating butternut squash this winter, you will want to grow some of your own next spring. Read on to learn how to grow butternut squash successfully. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener How to Grow Butternut squash Soil is the first consideration when growing vegetables. It is always a good idea to start with having your soil tested. The University of Minnesota has a testing service than can be accessed here . For best yield and quality, the soil pH range for vine crops is between 6.0 and 6.5, which is slightly acidic. Raised beds are recommended as they ensure good drainage. You can seed vine crops directly into the garden, but they need warm soils of about 65°tested at 2” down. Follow directions on the butternut squash seed package for seed depth and row spacing. To start your butternut squash inside, plant seeds in pots or cells at least two inches wide and deep. Seedlings take about four weeks from seeding to planting out. They need two to three true leaves before transplanting. Harden off seedlings started indoors before planting them in soil that is at least 65°F Read more about starting seeds indoors at this University of Minnesota Extension website. Now that your squash is in the ground, they need at least one inch of water each week. Trellised plants may require watering more often. Water deeply by using a drip hose, soaker hose or careful watering of the soil making sure to keep the leaves dry. Poor fruit set and tasteless fruit can be due to rainy, cloudy or cold weather, when pollinators are not active. Heavy rainfalls can lead to oedema, which causes scabby, raised bumps on the fruit. If you want to use mulch, such as straw or compost to control weeds, wait until the soil is at least 75°F because the mulch can inhibit further warming. When the vines start to spread out, side dress with high-nitrogen fertilizer. Consult your soil test for amounts. The first blossoms often drop from the vines. This is not a problem, since the first blossoms are male, the female flowers, which open later, have a swelling at the base called the ovary. After pollination, the fruit develops. After your butternut squash is ripe, pick it before a hard freeze for best results. A light frost that kills the vine will usually not harm the fruit. Cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a few inches of stem attached. Be careful not to cut or bruise the fruit. After cutting squash from the vines, you should “field-cure” them in place for a week or two in dry, sunny weather. This dries and toughens the skin for longer storage. If the weather becomes cold or rainy, cure the squash indoors in a well-ventilated, warm (80°F) place. Storage Winter squash should be stored in a cool (55°F) place, with good air movement. If you don’t have a good place to store them, you can freeze mashed squash, dry slices in a dehydrator, or can it. Check this site for more information about preserving winter squash. Butternut squash can be made into many dishes, from soups to roasted or candied cubes. Check out our Garden to Kitchen article this month for a mouth-watering squash recipe. Bon appétit! Photo and Drawing Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,3)

< Back The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life “The Backyard Parables: Lesson on Gardening, and Life,” is a gardening memoir of sorts writing by Margaret Roach. Roach, a former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine, quit her job to tend to her gardens full-time. In this delightful book, Roach dispenses both gardening and life lessons. Read this book review to learn more. Reviewed by Linda Holt, Master Gardener “The Backyard Parables: Lessons on Gardening, and Life is a gardening memoir. You may recognize the author, Margaret Roach, as the former editor-in-chief of the ‘Martha Stewart Living’ magazine. Her up-state New York garden has been featured several times in that magazine. She left this high-powered position to work fulltime on her gardens. Within this book she shares her journey in that effort including her gardening wins and losses - made humble by mother nature and various animals, including woodchucks and deer to name a few. Her garden story is told both from a practical and spiritual perspective, therefore the use of the word ‘parable’ meaning: “a simple story used to illustrate a moral or spiritual lesson”. Roach’s memoir is broken into 4 parts or chapters, as she describes the ‘life’ of her garden. She begins with ‘Water (Winter), the crucial time period that the important work of planning the garden and purchasing the seeds begins. Within each chapter she includes sidebars where she shares her wisdom regarding the lessons she has learned over her 25 years as a gardener. Within this chapter is an amusing tale where she attempts to rescue frogs located within her garden ponds. The device meant to keep the occupants of the pond alive during the long, cold winter failed to work. So, she trudged out in the ice-cold darkness of her thigh high snow filled yard to be a savior to her beloved frogs. Quite an entertaining story follows. The next section is ‘Earth (spring)’, the third section is entitled ‘Fire (summer) and the fourth is ‘Wind (Autumn)’. Within each section she shares gardening lessons learned along the way that correspond to the evolution of the garden and how that relates to our changing selves. It is a truly delightful book and best experienced by reading slowly and thoughtfully. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Margaret Roach (1)

< Back Master Gardeners Are in School – Gardens Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener With School Garden Leaders: Deb Oldenburg, Kate Minor, Mary Barnidge and Patricia McCabe A primary purpose of the volunteer Master Gardener program is to educate the community about environmentally sound gardening practices. There is no better audience hear the lessons of why and how to grow flowers and vegetables than children. The Dakota County Master Gardeners put this concept into practice by participating in four “school gardens.” Read this article explaining where, why and how Master Gardeners are in school – gardens. Look for them in your community! A primary purpose of the volunteer Master Gardener program is to educate the community about environmentally sound gardening practices. There is no better audience to teach the lessons of why and how to grow flowers and vegetables than children. The Dakota County Master Gardeners put this concept into practice by participating in four “school gardens.” In partnership with the schools, Master Gardeners teach children at Community of Saints School, Gideon Pond Elementary School, Pine Bend School Garden and Garlough Environmental Magnet School. While each school garden program and process are somewhat different, in general, the mission of these gardens is to provide school-aged children with engaging education about growing produce. Here are their stories. Community of Saints School Garden, West St. Paul This small school garden is a powerhouse producer for a school in an under-served community. Master Gardeners partner with the school kids in the spring to plant over 25 types of crops including vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers. Summer program kids from pre-K through 5th grade are provided fun garden education and activities on a variety of [topics including water, weather, pollinators and mini beasts. They learn how to be gardeners and how much work it takes to water, weed and harvest the garden. By the end of the season, we have typically harvested 300+ lbs. of produce which is consumed by students, families and staff. We are currently looking for community partners to help with future projects and maintenance to continue our mission. Garlough Environmental Magnet School Garden, West St. Paul This garden is part of the school's magnet curriculum. It supports projects for different grades. For example, the third grade makes salsa with some of the produce; kinderdergartner/first graders plant and harvest potatoes to make fries. They also grow a Native American “three sisters” garden. Master Gardeners helped to plan and supervise the planting of the garden at the school’s Environmental Explorers’ Fair in May. Students and their families helped to plant the garden along with Master Gardener volunteers. Teachers, staff, parents and students are thrilled with the garden project! Pine Bend School Garden, Inver Grove Heights The Pine Bend School Garden was established in 2018 with a Garden-in-a-Box grant from the Minnesota State Horticultural Society along with a donation from the school's PTSA. The mission of the garden is to create a beautiful, thriving school garden that provides students, teachers, and parents with the opportunity to connect with the natural world, grow and eat fresh produce, and expose them to a hands-on environmental education. There is an after-school garden club available to students in grades 3-5 two days a week in the spring and fall. They receive a short lesson about plants and best gardening practices created and delivered by Master Gardeners. Then they work in the garden planting, maintaining, and harvesting. Parents and students sign up to take care of the garden throughout the summer. The garden is visible and open to all students and the public. The pollinator garden is next to the main entrance and many parents (and neighbors) have commented on how beautiful it is. It is also teeming with bees, butterflies, and birds. The vegetable/fruit garden is in the school courtyard next to the playground. All students walk by the garden to witness the growth and changes. Sometimes signs are created and installed to educate students. Garden club members help lead an all-school assembly in the spring on Earth Day. Produce has been shared with the school in the cafeteria. The garden started small and has grown over the years with the help of in-kinds donations and grants from several community businesses and nonprofits. Gideon Pond Elementary School, Burnsville The Dakota County Master Gardeners have had a long partnership with the Gideon Pond Elementary School in Burnsville. They helped build a garden on school property to provide hands-on education for PreK through 5th grade students about gardening and where their food comes from. Our Master Gardener team teaches the students how to start seeds in the spring, and then how to transfer those seedlings to the garden in early summer. Our garden includes several different types of vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers. Summer school sessions include a 6-week curriculum (based on the U of MN Children’s Garden in Residence Program) with in-garden instruction on what plants need to thrive, how to deal with the Garden Villains (picking bugs, pulling weeds and deterring rodents/mammals), importance of pollinators and other “garden helper bugs”, purpose of fences, mulch and trellises, sensory evaluation of herbs, plant identification, and garden maintenance and harvesting. This summer we added a class with Early Childhood Family Education (ECFE). Participants include children birth through 5-year olds and their parents. The school is a joy to work with and the students are so excited to learn and participate in the entire gardening experience. It is not uncommon to be greeted by the students with a “Hi Master! Hi Master!” It is a rewarding experience for all involved. Quote from the school liaisons: “Thank you so much! This has been such a fantastic and memorable experience for our (students). We appreciate all that you did to make it fun and educational- not always an easy task.” And thank you to the schools, children and parents for making these gardens a “fantastic and memorable experience” for our Master Gardeners. Photo credits: Deb Oldenburg (1,2), Kate Minor (3,4), Patricia McCabe (5,6), Mary Barnidge (7,8)

< Back Dutchman’s Breeches (Dicentra cucullaria): Springtime Treat Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Read on for Master Gardener Jim Lakin’s exploration of this month’s featured Minnesota native perennial - Dutchan’s Breeches, a springtime treat! Antiquated articles of gentlemen’s attire do not make good names for flowers…usually. One exception is Dutchman’s Breeches, named after the ubiquitous knee-pants of the 17 th century Lowlands. This curious little ephemeral pops up each spring, looking for all the world like a series of Hollander’s pants hung out to dry. Dicentra cucullaria is native to temperate North America and can be found throughout the Midwest. It is hardy from USDA Zones 3 to 7. North Shore gardeners note! Dutchman’s Breeches is a forest dweller, preferring humus-rich, well-drained soil in part shade. You will usually find them on north or east facing forest slopes with underlying limestone. The foliage is fernlike, emerging in the early spring. Blooms last for about two weeks in April or early May, looking like upside-down white britches. The flowers are translucent, luminous white, standing out vividly against the primavera greens of the spring woodlands. Once the forest canopy closes and blocks most sunlight, the plant will stop blooming. Soon after flowering, the leaves will turn yellow and disappear. The flower stalks and leaves arise from an underground corm. Seeds are dispersed by ants, who are encouraged to carry the seeds underground as they are covered by a protein and fat-rich layer called an elaiosome. The elaiosome covering makes great food for the ant larvae. Once established, the plants grow to about 6 to 12 inches in height and width. They can be grown from seed although that is a bit of a process. Use fresh seed and sew in the early spring. The seeds need a warm period followed by a cold one before germination, so don’t expect sprouting until the following spring. An easier, and more expeditious means of propagation is to plant corms, which are similar to bulbs, in the fall. You should have a plant blooming late in the following spring. If you are interested in propagating more Dutchmen, the mother corm will produce offset corms after a couple of seasons, which can be separated and replanted in the fall. The landscape uses of D. cucullaria are numerous. It makes a classic addition to shade or woodland rock gardens. If you have a shaded slope, it will make a great spring accent. It nicely fills in a bare spot in a shaded raised bed. No matter where you plan Dutchman’s Breeches it will always produce a smile at the beginning of the gardening season. Photo Credit: Wikipedia, Fritz Flohr Reynolds (1), Minnesota Board of Soil and Water Resources (2)

< Back So, You Want to Grow Your Own Apples! Gardeners have an old saying – “Right plant, right place”! It’s fun to imagine walking out into your yard and picking apples from your own apple trees. But, of course, there are a few things to know before going to your local nursery and picking up your trees. Read this article to learn more and start visualizing those delicious apples! Marjory Blare, Master Gardener It’s fun to imagine walking out into your yard and picking apples from your own apple trees. But, of course, there are a few things to know before going to your local nursery and picking up your trees. Before you start: Step 1 : Apple trees need two varieties to fruit. The second tree can be a crabapple that blooms at the same time as your tree. Step 2 : Evaluate the place you want to plant your apple tree(s). A. Does it get at least 6 hours (preferably 8) of full sun? B. Does it drain well? C. Is there enough room for the mature tree? Step 3 : Research cultivars before you got to a nursery. A. Any tree smaller than a standard is going to be grafted onto a rootstock that will determine the mature size. B. A standard size tree can grow between 20 and 30 feet tall. You will need 26 square feet. C. A semi-dwarf tree will be between 14 and 22 feet tall. It will need an area of about 20 square feet. D. Dwarf trees grow between 6 and 12 feet and need an area of about 14 feet square. A super-dwarf tree will need staking its entire life. E. For best pollination, make sure both cultivars are hardy in zone 4 and that the bloom time is the same. F. For more on root stocks: https://apples.extension.org/understanding-apple-tree-size-dwarf-semi-dwarf-and-standard/ One-year-old graft Super-dwarf rootstock Four-year-old graft semi-dwarf rootstock] Ten-year-old graft super-dwarf rootstock Step 4 : After you have a few cultivars in mind, it’s off to the nursery A. Make sure you have a good way to transport your tree(s). B. Cushion the branches and trunk when tying it down. C. The nursery may wrap the tree’s canopy for you, or you can cover it with a well tied-down tarp. D. Drive slowly, you don’t want the foliage to get wind-whipped. https://trees.umn.edu/sites/trees.umn.edu/files/files/best-planting-practices.pdf Step 5 : Prepare the planting site before you take the tree out of its container. Have water and back-fill ready. Water the back-fill when the hole is half full and again when it’s full. It’s good to have a slight mound around the hole to help direct the water. If necessary, have staking supplies ready. Step 6 : Planting your tree(s) A. Bare-root stock: this allows you to spread out the roots and easily make sure there are no stem-girdling roots. Stem-girdling roots grow around the trunk and as they increase in size, they can strangle the trunk. You can buy bare-root or wash the soil off a (smaller) container-grown tree. B. Container-grown stock: make sure to cut any stem-girdling roots and roots above the trunk flare (the bottom of the trunk gets wider before the roots start). https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-and-transplanting-trees-and-shrubs#container-grown-1399864 C. Ball-and-burlap stock: make sure you have help or hire someone to plant the tree. Again, inspect the trunk where it meets the soil ball to look for stem girdling roots. Step 7 : Check here https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples , for advice on aftercare, pest management and harvesting and storage. Happy growing! Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back How Trees Talk to One Another Karna Berg, Master Gardener Have you ever walked in the woods and thought there was someone there, someone talking? Well, if you have, you were right. It was the trees talking to one another. Oak trees are the perfect example. My back yard has a small, wooded area of mostly oak trees. I now feel them talking to each other. Or are they talking to me? Are they saying they need more water? Would like a sunny day? Just what are they saying? As we all know, our trees are under attack from pollution, drought, pests, and disease. And while trees cannot just move to a more hospitable spot, they can help one another deal with all the stresses on them. Scientists have discovered that trees, and specifically oaks, have developed a root system, or network, through which they communicate. That root system is populated by fungus that aids them in this process. Let’s say a pest is moving into the neighborhood. As we know, they move in slowly, often tracked by tree specialists providing warnings to the public on what to be on the lookout for. Well, the trees are tracking the pests as well. And as the pests land on their branches, they signal ahead through the network that their neighbor trees should be prepared. Oaks and other trees will then produce chemicals and enzymes that help to ward off the pests. It sounds impossible, right? But it is true. Some scientists now even believe that trees also communicate through their leaves. If this is as fascinating to you as it is to me, you can read more about it in some of the books I relied on here. They include: “The Life & Love of Trees,” Lewis Blackwell; “The Hidden Life of Trees: What they Feel, How they Communicate,” Peter Wohllenben; and “Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest,” Suzanne Simard. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1), seeing-nature.de (2)