< Back You Fall Garden Clean Up Check List Julie Harris, Master Gardener The garden growing season may be over but before you put your feet up and sip your hot cider, there are a few things you should do to clean up and prepare your garden for winter. Fall garden clean up provides multiple benefits for both you and your garden. Here are twelve tasks you should consider to tuck your garden in for the winter. The garden growing season may be over but before you put your feet up and sip your hot cider, there are a few things you should do to clean up and prepare your garden for winter. Fall garden clean up provides multiple benefits for both you and your garden. It can reduce the spread of weeds and disease, reduce insect pests, prevent rodent infestation and, finally – ease your workload in the spring. Here are twelve tasks you should consider to tuck your garden in for the winter. 1. Plant spring bulbs. Yes, you are not thinking about planting this time of year but make an exception for spring bulbs. Just think ahead to April and May when bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocus and allium provide the color that you have missed over the winter. Here are previous Garden Buzz articles about planting daffodils and protecting bulbs . 2. Remove and store tender bulbs that you want to replant in the spring, such as: anemone, tuberous begonia, caladium, calla lilies, canna, dahlias and gladiola. See this UMN article for more information about how to do so correctly. 3. Clean your garden but try to do so on sunny dry days in the late morning or afternoon. Pulling plants when the garden is wet can spread disease in the garden. In addition, walking on wet soil can damage the soil structure. 4. Cut back perennials but wait until the plant is no longer green. You may want to leave some plants up through the winter . In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. 5. Bag and throw away infested plants. Put healthy plants on your compost pile. Fall is a good time to remove vines from fences and other supports when the stems are firmer. 6. Pull out and clean garden labels, stakes, cages and trellises. Pull up black plastic from the garden as it can harbor insects. If you have garden art, clean and put it away unless you want it to provide some winter interest. 7. Rake your garden beds to remove plant debris. You may spread shredded tree leaves evenly on your garden bed, tilling them in to a shallow depth. 8. Rake the leaves on your lawn then mow lawn one last time. Mow with your blade at 2 inches to reduce the chance of snow mold. Then clean and service your lawn mower so it will be ready to go in the spring. 9. Prepare any houseplants that you left outside all summer before bringing them inside. Examine plants for insects; clean out plant debris that may be on the soil surface; clean the saucer and pot. Consider whether the plant needs to be transplanted into a larger pot after spending the summer growing in the sun. 10. Protect your plants and trees. Wrap sensitive evergreens to reduce potential wind damage. Put tree guards or cloth cages around young trees and shrubs to prevent sunscald damage and animal damage. Read these articles by Dakota County Master Gardeners for more information about protecting trees and plants from winter damage. https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/treesshrubs/taking-care-of-and-protecting-trees-before-winter ; https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/treesshrubs/preparing-your-trees-and-evergreens-for-winter 11. Now is a good time have your soil tested. Send your sample to the UMN Soils Lab. The report will provide recommendations for improving your soil health. Go to https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ for instructions. 12. Clean and sharpen your tools and containers before storing them away for the winter. Wash pots and tools with a diluted bleach or 70% rubbing alcohol solution. Cleaning will help prevent the spread of diseases and unwanted weed seeds and insect eggs. It will also help to prolong the life of your tools. And, don’t forget to take a moment to enjoy the spectacular color display that your garden is providing this time of year! References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/final-fall-do-list https://extension.umn.edu/news/putting-your-garden-bed https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/fall-clean-time-remove-annual-vines Photo credits: www.ag.ndsu.edu (All Creative Commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3, 4), Karna Berg (5)

< Back Snack on Celery Kristen Andrews, Master Gardener Intern Celery, while a delicious treat, can be a challenge for the home gardener to grow. Learn how you can start your own celery plants indoors and have a harvest of this versatile vegetable, early or late, into the growing season! Ants on a log I have fond memories of snack time as a child, munching on “ants on a log.” Those familiar with the treat know there are three main components: the ants (chocolate chips and/or raisins), the glue to stick the ants on the log (usually peanut butter), and the log (a crisp piece of celery). The star of the snack, a crisp piece of celery, has been produced commercially since the early 1800s. Celery is part of the Apiaceae (or carrot) family. These plants are known for their hollow stems, taproots, and flat-topped flower clusters. Other familiar plants in this family are dill, fennel, and cumin. Growing celery at home may be difficult, but the harvest serves as an excellent reward for anyone up for the challenge. There are two main types of celery: Trenching and Self-blanching. Trenching celery requires extra care to ensure the stalks are protected, whereas self-blanching does not. The taste of self-blanching celery may be a little more muted, but is generally easier to grow. Two recommended self-blanching varieties are Utah and Pascal. For the home grower, celery does best when started indoors, 10-12 weeks before the last spring frost date, for a spring crop. A fall crop can also be started indoors, 10-12 weeks before the first fall frost date. Transplant outdoors once temperatures are above 50F during the day, and no lower than 40F during the night. Celery's three main needs are: cool weather, water, and rich, organic matter soil. Celery Celery can be harvested by removing the outer stalk layer leaving the rest of the plant to continue growth. The plant can also be left to grow up to 3-inches in diameter and then all the stalks harvested as a whole. Cool temperatures and water will continue the growth of the plant. The rooty, stalk structured plant with leafy greens has many uses. The stalks are regularly consumed and used in everything from stir-fry to broth, or simply consumed raw. Less popular, but still edible, are the leafy greens on the top of the plant. Those can be added to salads or minced and used as a seasoning. If looking for new and innovative celery uses, Taste of Home has 28 Non-Boring Ways to Use Celery . Sources: https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/celery-in-the-garden https://www.almanac.com/plant/celery https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/vegetables https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Apiaceae-2038061 https://www.tasteofhome.com/collection/non-boring-celery-recipes/ Photo Credit: Brian Talbot, Flickr (1) & Buuz, Wikimedia (2)

About Us The mission of the Dakota County Extension Master Gardener program is to educate and assist the public by answering questions and solving problems about horticulture and related environmental topics. There are more than 130 Dakota County residents who are University of Minnesota Extension-trained and volunteer thousands of hours each year. Events & Workshops What We Do Extension Master Gardeners use up-to-date University information to provide education and horticulture resources. Teaching classes to youth and adults Speaking to groups Participating in community events and projects Conducting research Answering gardening questions online and by phone Partnering with other state and county organizations Learn more about the state Master Gardener program or how to become a Dakota County Master Gardener: State-wide Extension Master Gardener Volunteers program Dakota County Extension Master Gardener membership

< Back Pumpkin Power: Creative Uses for October’s Harvest Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but as an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes and a great natural fertilizer! Read this article for more information about how to use the familiar and fun pumpkin. Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. Unknown to most, the pumpkin is considered a winter squash and is also considered a modified berry known as a pepo like cucumbers and watermelons. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but also can be promoted as a great natural fertilizer, and an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes! Crafting and Decor: DIY Projects for Fall Everyone knows the most common use for a pumpkin in the fall: carving! A tradition in my household, this activity can be done with the whole family, and each person can personalize them by carving them however they see fit. There are entire websites just dedicated to helping provide ideas for pumpkin carving . Don't forget a candle! If carving isn't your cup of tea, there are also a multitude of no-carve options for turning a pumpkin into a simple art project! Get some paint or markers and turn that crazy berry into a work of art! Whether it's glow in the dark paint , artistic interpretations of woodland creatures , or even stained glass . I know I’m excited to try my hand at hand painted florals , and faux gold paint ! A few eco-friendly options for this seasonal gourd are turning them into bird feeders or even compostable plant pots ! Culinary Uses: Delicious Dishes to Try Pumpkins are great as they are not only good for decorations, but also amazing in cooked dishes and baked goods too. One significant savory pumpkin-based dish is pumpkin soup , that uses broth, cream, and your choice of spices to season. If you have more of a sweet tooth, my favorite thanksgiving recipe is a simple no bake pumpkin pie . Try to use all parts of the pumpkin! The pumpkin flesh, or rind, can be made into great chips ! Pumpkin seeds are also multitudinous, with each pumpkin containing up to 500 seeds. The seeds can also be baked , and they are a great source of protein and iron. My favorite receipt involves coating the seeds in a fine layer of sea salt for a salty snack! Pumpkin in the Garden: A Natural Fertilizer Lastly, as the season comes to a close, pumpkins are one of the first signs that winter is coming, as their decay is coming fast. As these fall icons start to decline, the best thing you can do may also be the best thing for your garden: Compost! You can use a knife or shovel (or even sledgehammer) to break the pumpkins down. Once the pumpkin is into pieces, you can slightly bury the pieces and cover with newspaper and soil (to prevent pests), or allow them to compost in your own compost pile. If you are going to return them to the soil, make sure to remove any decorations and wax, and also ensure to do your best to remove seeds fully or else you may end up with some unwanted sprouts come spring. If your pumpkins are painted or decorated with any kind of marker, sadly composting is not the best option as this can contaminate the soil. Do your best to use what you can, and your garden and yard will thank you. Pumpkins are a foundation of fall and starting your traditions with your family can make the season that much more fun! Try any of the tips and this article to improve your kitchen, gardens, and crafts. Photo credit: www.publicdomainpictures.net (1), Logan Caola (2), flickr.com (3), wikimedia.com (4)

< Back Winter is a Perfect Time to Start Seeds Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. Read this article to learn the why, what. how and when for starting your own plants. On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. WHY: Many annuals need an early start in order to maximize their blooming time in summer. Long-growing vegetables need to be started indoors in order to be harvested before the first frost. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: seed trays and potting mix seeds, of course! heat mats to raise the temperature of your soil seed tray covers to help maintain humidity and temperature (or plastic wrap) grow lights (optional) plug-in timers for grow light WHAT: Not all plants benefit from being started as seeds indoors. Many are at their best when sown directly. Always check your seed packets to see what is recommended for each plant. HOW: PREPARE your setup with a heating mat under your seed tray, filled with potting mix and covered by a humidity dome. Grow lights can be plugged into timers in order to mimic long summer days, with 12+ hours of light, but do not plug your heating mat into a timer—heat should be on at all times. PLANT your seeds according to the seed packet instructions, WATER, and COVER your tray with your humidity dome. WATCH your seeds germinate and grow! The first growth you will see are not true leaves, but cotyledons. All plants are categorized by these: a seedling with one is called a monocot and a seedling with two is called a dicot. ADJUST the closeness of your grow light to your seedlings—about 4” is best! If your light is too far away from the seedlings, they grow tall, spindly, and weak as they strive to get closer to the light. These “leggy” seedlings often will not survive, so prevent your seedlings from reaching that state. WATER as needed, and also remove the humidity covers as needed. Too much humidity can create an environment in which molds can grow. THIN seedlings as needed. If many seedlings are too close together, they will not grow at their best. FERTILIZE only once a week, and use fertilizer mixed at only ¼ strength. TRANSPLANT seedlings into larger containers as they grow. As you move them, lift by the root ball by using a spoon or plant tag for support. Never hold by the stem, but if necessary to steady the plant, lightly hold the plant by a leaf. HARDEN OFF seedlings when it is a few weeks before they will be moved out of doors. Each day, set plants outside for a few hours in the warmth of the afternoon. Begin by placing them in the shade for a short time, and gradually increase their exposure to the sun until you’re ready to transplant them to the garden. MOVE plants outdoors! WHEN: This can be the most daunting aspect of seed starting! If you are planting several different things, this can feel a bit like a juggling act. Grab a notebook and a pen to jot down notes from your seed packets on how many “days to harvest” or “days to bloom” for each plant. Consider making yourself a seed-starting calendar to keep beside your trays. Specific varieties will vary, but in general, you can follow these guidelines: EARLY FEBRUARY (14-15 weeks indoors): geraniums, pansies, leeks, onions LATE FEBRUARY (12-13 weeks indoors): dusty miller, larkspur, lobelia, celery EARLY MARCH (10-11 weeks indoors): coleus, dahlia, heliotrope, petunias, rudbeckia, snapdragons, verbena, broccoli Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce LATE MARCH (8-9 weeks indoors): cleome, hollyhocks, phlox, alyssum, eggplant, okra, peppers EARLY APRIL (5-7 weeks indoors): amaranthus, aster, bachelor buttons, calendula, morning glory, ornamental basil and kale, tomatoes LATE APRIL (3-4 weeks indoors): cosmos, sweet peas, zinnias, sweet potatoes As always, you will learn what works and what doesn’t work in your own garden by trying things out. There isn’t only one correct way to practice indoor seed starting, and everyone’s set-up is a little different. For more information about growing plants from seed in your home, visit the Dakota County Master Gardener You Tube site. Here is one “how-to” video . Happy planting! Photo Credit: Valerie Rogotzke (1), Jim Lakin (2,3)

< Back October - “Fall”ing for Compost Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Supplies Needed : Large Plastic Water/Pop Bottle or Comparable Container Utility Knife, Push Pin/Tack or Small Nail Small Dish or Tray to set Bottle into Greens (ex. vegetable and/or fruit food scraps, non-fertilized grass clippings) Browns (ex. sticks, leaves, sawdust, pine needles, clean cardboard) Spray Bottle with Water Long dowel, long handled Spoon or Narrow Trowel Sunny spot - on shelf, counter, windowsill Patience Composting is a natural way of helping the environment using our home and garden waste to create compost that can be used in our gardens and plantings. By placing waste items together (greens & browns) and allowing them to break down or decompose we help to cut down on the food and yard waste scraps we throw away on a day-to-day basis. Composting also provides wonderful benefits as a gardener as a way of natural recycling…turning items we typically would throw away and turning them into usable soil for our future plants. Starting small and educating our “Little Sprouts” about the importance of the how-to’s of composting and letting them create their own compost container benefits us all. If using a large plastic water/pop container, please have an adult cut the top of the bottle off just as it begins to round downward. Next, if age appropriate, allow your “Little Sprout” to use the pin/tack to push through the bottom of the bottle/container to make a few small holes. If the plastic is too thick or the child is too small, please have the adult place holes in the bottom of the container. A small dish or tray will catch any moisture that escapes from the bottom. What about the browns and greens? Composting is like cooking with a recipe. Just like when baking cookies, various ingredients are needed and the same is true with creating a successful compost. To create a successful compost both greens and browns are needed in addition to water and the natural process of decomposition. “Greens” are simply the moist ingredient that provides nitrogen and moisture that helps things grow. Greens include fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, coffee and tea grounds and eggshells. Yes - “Greens” don’t necessarily need to be green. “Browns” are the items we add to the compost that provide air pockets in the pile, increase bulk and are full of carbon. The brown items include dry leaves, cardboard and plain paper (no shiny paper, tape or printing on cardboard), non-died wood chips, twigs, sticks, sawdust and pine needles. Again, all materials don’t necessarily need to be brown, but for the most part browns are brown. What not to use in my home compost: dairy, fish, meat and fats should be avoided. Next is the real fun…layering the browns and greens (In a larger compost bin the ratio of browns to greens is 2-1, but in our small compost bin just try your best.). The container used does not have to be filled to the top in that composting is about adding layers as you go and as you produce green and brown compostable items. In the container place brown materials first. Spray the layer lightly with water and then proceed with a green layer followed by another brown layer. Spray a light mist and place another green layer followed by brown. Repeat until you have filled your compost bin to the top or have decided to stop. Don’t forget to mist the brown layer each time. Once you have reached the level of compost in the container, place it in a sunny location. As the elements added decompose with the help of good bacteria and fungi, you will begin to see the actual breakdown of the elements involved. But your “Little Sprouts” job is not done. The compost needs to be turned so take a small dowel, trowel or spoon and turn the compost. Turning the compost can take place every 2-3 days. The slow process of decomposing takes time so be patient. It can take months for the greens and browns to turn into the perfect compost, but it is worth the wait. When the product being created is a dark color, falls apart and smells like soil, then your compost is ready. Remember, greens and browns can continually be added to the container so keep it up. Overtime, wonderful compost will be created and can be used in your garden or around your flowers. Happy Fall Composting! Photo credit: pexels.com (1,2,3)

< Back I Forgot to Plant My Garlic in October! Planting Garlic in March Michelle Scullard, Master Gardener Are you a garlic lover? Yes, you can buy it at the grocery store but garlic grown in your own garden is so good. Garlic is normally grown in late fall BUT not to worry, if you act quickly, you can plant garlic in March and harvest it in July. Read this article to learn more about planting garlic in the spring or the fall. Didn’t get around to planting garlic this past fall? You can still get a garlic harvest this summer but you have to be quick and get that garlic in the ground as early as possible in March. As soon as the ground is thawed, you can plant those garlic cloves. Usually, garlic is planted in the fall in mid-to-late October, after the first killing frost. It is covered with straw or leaves and in the spring, emerges as one of the first green plants. Luckily, Minnesota springs are cool, so planting garlic in March still allows the garlic to go through the cold period it needs, although it is much shorter. Your garlic bulbs may be a little smaller, but you will still be able to harvest your own garlic. And there is nothing like eating fresh garlic from your own garden! You should not plant the garlic bulbs from the grocery store as those are usually from California and do not grow well in Minnesota. You can look at seed catalogs or nurseries for garlic to plant and some may still have some seed garlic. There are two types of garlic; hardneck and softneck. Types of hardneck that grow well in Minnesota include Rocamble, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain. Softneck varieties that do well in Minnesota are Artichoke and Silverskin. They produce bulbs with more cloves and are the type of garlic you can braid. Garlic is very easy to plant. To plant, take a bulb of seed garlic and break it into the individual cloves. Dig a small hole and place the clove pointed side up and cover with soil. You do not have to remove the papery skin that covers it. You can plant garlic close together, which allows you to plant a large crop in a small space. Plant in double rows that are six inches apart and plant the double rows 30 inches apart. You will want to plant in well-drained soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. You will want to cover with three to four inches of straw or leaf mulch to add an insulation layer. You do not have to worry about uncovering them as the garlic will push through organic cover. Controlling weeds is important as weeds can easily overwhelm the young garlic plants. Leaving the insulating straw or leaves that you used to cover them when you planted can help suppress weeds and keep in moisture. Water weekly to a depth of one inch. Insects that can affect garlic include onion maggots, bulb mites, and aster leafhoppers. The aster leafhoppers can cause the disease aster yellow. Make sure to practice a four-year rotation to help reduce insect and disease problems and only plant firm, healthy cloves purchased from reliable sources. Scapes are a bonus that grow at the end of the garlic stalk in early June. The hardneck garlics generally produce the scapes; rarely will the softnecks produce them. The scapes are the curved part of the stem at the top of the garlic stock. You can cut them when the green stalk starts curling. Cook them by sauteing them in oil, making pesto, or adding to dishes such as quiche. You can find recipes for scapes on the internet. There are mixed opinions on cutting the garlic scapes, however, as some people believe it affects the size of the garlic bulb. If you choose to leave the scape, a small garlic bulb grows on the end that will have small white and purple flowers. These can be harvested to use as garlic seeds for a future growing season. Garlic is harvested in late June to late July when the lower leaves begin to brown and about half the upper leaves are still green. You can also harvest a bulb and cut it in half to see if the cloves fill out the skins. If you are planting your garlic in March, you will likely be harvesting more toward end of July. Once you have dug up your garlic bulbs, leave about six inches to a foot of stem and knock off any soil. You then will need to allow the bulbs to cure for three to four weeks in a warm, dry, and airy place. You can place them over a screen or hang them so air flows around them. Once cured, cut the stems off and any remaining roots. You will want to store the bulbs in a cool, dry location. Garlic will keep for several months. You can eat the garlic as soon as it has cured. You can also save some to plant in the Fall after the first killing frost. For more information: Growing Garlic, UMN Extension Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2)

< Back Low Cal Jerk Chicken Tacos? Joy Johnson, Master Gardener If you are trying to lose your extra ‘Covid’ pounds or working on getting back in gardening shape or just like great chicken tacos, you will love this recipe. In this offering, Master Gardener Joy Johnson still manages to find something from her garden to place into her March recipe. By the time March rolls around, we’ve all probably given up on our New Year’s resolutions, but if you are still trying to lose your extra ‘Covid 19 lbs’ like I am, here’s a low calorie (272 calories in two tacos), delicious recipe that pops with flavor. I made my own jerk seasoning, which is listed here, but you can purchase a jar of jerk spice as an alternative. Slow Cooker Jerk Chicken Tacos with Caribbean Salsa Serves 8 Ingredients for jerk seasoning: 2 T onion flakes ½ tsp each of Thyme, cinnamon, paprika, cumin, salt, nutmeg, sugar ¼ tsp black pepper 1 T dried parsley (this is the only ingredient that actually came from my garden – hey, it’s March) Ingredients: 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 T jerk seasoning Kosher salt 2 ½ lbs boneless chicken breasts 2 T lime juice ½ c orange juice 2 T chopped fresh cilantro Ingredients for Caribbean Salsa : 2 large mangos, peeled, diced into ½ pieces 1 avocado, peeled, diced into ½ pieces 2 T chopped red onion 2 T chopped fresh cilantro 2 T lime juice ¼ tsp salt Black pepper 12 extra thin yellow corn tortillas Process for the Chicken : Combine the garlic, jerk seasoning, and ½ tsp salt and spread it over the chicken. Put the chicken, the lime and orange juices, and cilantro in the crock pot. Cover and cook on high for 2 hours. Process for the Salsa : In a medium bowl, combine the mango, avocado, red onion, cilantro, lime juice, salt, and black pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Remove the chicken from the slow cooker and shred it with two forks. Pour any liquid left in the slow cooker into a bowl, then return the chicken to the slow cooker. Add 1 cup of the reserved liquid, just enough to moisten the chicken, and season with 1/8 tsp salt and black pepper to taste. Heat the tortillas in a skillet set over medium-high for about 30 seconds. Fill each with 1/3 cup of the chicken and 2 T of salsa. Photo credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Explore the Virtues of Wild Ginger for your Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Many gardeners love a good cookbook for the bounty we grow. But what about recipes? Now that we’ve rounded the corner from April to May, it’s off to the races, back to the garden centers to do some window shopping and more often than not, bring home a new addition (or 20). As I continue to develop my garden, now entering its 4th growing season, I reflect back on what has worked, what can be removed and gaps I need to fill. This season I am focusing on ground covers, specifically Wild Ginger, which can be added as a beneficial plant, address a difficult site, and create a point of interest in the garden. Note - Wild Ginger is inedible and should not be confused with the Ginger that you might find in a grocery store. This Minnesota native plant has soft, heart-shaped leaves with a smaller heart-shaped cutout where the leaf meets a fuzzy stem. Wild Ginger will grow approximately 8 inches in height, making it perfect to be placed in front of leggy plants and has a spreading nature of approximately 15 inches. Hardy to Zone 2, this tough plant can make it through some of the worst winters and come out the other side healthy and thriving. Wild Ginger does well in both shade and part shade locations making this plant optimal below the canopies of more mature trees or in north facing gardens. Gardeners should use caution though, if planting in a space that receives a lot direct sunlight, as the leaves could burn. Wild Ginger can tolerate some drought but prefers moist, not wet, well-draining soil. A true “set it and forget it” plant, pruning will not be necessary unless you are clearing away dieback or want to create a more compact spread. Wild Ginger is a slow growing plant that spreads underground, through rhizomes. In the early spring, shallow lateral root systems make division and transplanting easy. This versatile plant is used as a unique ground cover that provides many solutions and benefits in a garden. Best Suited Spaces Rain Garden Shade Garden Woodland Garden Native Plant Garden Problem Solver Erosion control on slopes Ground Cover Weed Suppressant Early Pollinator The first thing that caught my eye when I considered Wild Ginger was its attractive spreading nature. If there is one thing gardeners are not fond of, it’s weeds. This workhorse plant will push out competing non-native, invasive spreading plants and weeds, giving you more time to enjoy your garden and less time fussing over uninvited guests. At first glance, you might not suspect that Wild Ginger contributes to early pollination, but it does! Hidden beneath the leaves of this ground cover plant, you will discover a brownish purple jug shaped flower that sits near the base of the plant. This flower can attract some lesser-known pollinators, such as ants and pollinator flies which are looking for food sources as the snow begins to melt. Diversity is the key to a healthy garden. Consider adding some Wild Ginger to your landscape, it will not disappoint, and be sure to check out our article on Gardening in Shade to discover some other shade loving ground cover options. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Wisconsin Extension (2)

< Back April - What To Do About Winter Damage Karna Berg, Master Gardener As we think beyond winter to spring, you may encounter winter damage to some of your plants. In this article, Karna Berg reminds us how to give your plants a boost going into winter and how to deal with winter damage in a way that will allow plants to recover and, ultimately, flourish. As you adjust to the cold of our winter, are you already looking ahead to spring? Before we know it, it will be here. In April, we start uncovering a few plants, anxious to find them poking their noses out of the mulch and leaves. Unfortunately, as we continue that process, we find plants that have not made it through the winter or have winter damage. What do we do? Hopefully, you watered your plants, especially trees and shrubs, as long as you possibly could in the fall. That gives them a better chance of making it through the winter. And also, you provided your perennial beds with a nice blanket of mulch and leaves. In fact, as the first snows hit us, we can carefully shovel some of that snow under the lower branches of our conifers to act as a cushion and help the branches stay upright when the ice or extremely wet snow falls on them. While it is tempting to try to remove snow and ice from our plants after a heavy snow, it is generally not a good idea. The only exception to that is for conifers. If you can safely brush some of the snow off those branches, it will help them stay upright. But no matter our fall attempts to prevent winter damage and death, we usually have some of it when spring comes. It’s just hard to avoid all damage, particularly with our erratic weather patterns that bring warm days in March to fool our plants. So, what can we do in spring? First, don’t take off the mulch and leaves too early no matter how tempting that may be. Wait until all chance of severe cold has passed. We all remember that late snowfall or cold. Also, walking on our gardens and lawns too early can cause foot damage. Then, start to assess damage winter caused in your garden. On trees and shrubs (often the plants that experience the most damage), remove dead, dry and damaged foliage. If you find broken branches, cut them back to the stem or back to the first live bud you find. Always leave a little distance from the stem or bud when you do this trimming. And if a limb is bent down but doesn’t appear dead, it may be possible to prop it up and see if it recovers. Again, in our perennial beds, hold back from uncovering them too early. But don’t wait too long or you’ll find pale green limp plants trying to get to the sun. If you have covered your perennials with mulch and leaves, most have probably made it through the winter. Now it’s important to remove those leaves. If not, they will smother the plants and cause mold in your garden. Also, the dreaded jumping worms, which live mainly in the top two inches of soil, love those leaves and will feed on them voraciously. Let’s not give them any reason to fall in love with our garden. Once you have babied a plant along, hoping it will come back to life but it doesn’t, just remove it from your garden. Then plant a native plant in its place. Our native plants are best at dealing with our Minnesota winters. And are also great for pollinators. Remember, when fall comes, water a lot but don’t fertilize your plants. Watch your use of salt during the winter. Then, hope for the best and enjoy spring! Photo credits: Rebecca Finneran, MSU Extension (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3)

< Back June - Fun With Fairy Gardens Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Fairy gardens are a great way to experience gardening with your children or grandchildren but – grownups love them, too. It’s said that if you plant a fairy garden, something magical happens. Years drop away, stress leaves you and you’re transported into the world of make believe. Nothing brings out the inner child in us more than when we plant a fairy garden. This article will inspire to experience the joy of fairy gardens. Fairy gardens have become increasingly popular. So, exactly what is this fairy garden craze all about? It’s said that if you plant a fairy garden, something magical happens. Years drop away, stress leaves you and you’re transported into the world of make believe. Nothing brings out the inner child in us more than when we plant a fairy garden. Throughout history, tales have existed of flower fairies. Flower fairies are nature spirits who care for flowers, plants, and trees. They have their own distinctive personality derived from her plant which determines their aesthetic, mood, and character. It’s also said that whenever a seed sprouts, a flower fairy baby is born. They live and sleep on their chosen flower, plant, or tree and as they grow the fairy grows too. ( www.pickupflowers.com ) Fairies are attracted to spaces filled with life. They can occur under, in, and around trees such as oak, elders, yew, holly, yellow elm, and many more life sustaining trees. Flowers that attract butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds also attract fairies such as pansies, bee balm, petunias, foxglove, sunflower, columbine, tulips, snapdragons, cosmos, and violets. Even foliage creates shadows and hiding spaces for shy fairies. Emphasize the natural as they’re very nature oriented and will be attracted to your efforts and set-up homesteads near you in nature. ( GardeningKnowHow.com , Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist, 3/25/21) There are unlimited fairy garden ideas available, both inside and outside … only limited by your imagination. Release your inner child and step into the fairy world by creating your own enchanted garden. Create a small magical spot in your garden, a special place to focus on the small details of nature, and to explore the range of your imagination. The idea is to plant certain flowers that fairies would like or build them a little house to calm a malicious fairy or receive good luck from a grateful one. There are numerous containers you can use to create a fairy garden, and you will see them listed throughout this article. Other elements you can use for your fairy gardens include birdhouses, toad stool houses, water fountains, small streams, bowls of water, statuary that honors elves, fairies, and gnomes. I remember being at the Arboretum during my intern training and they had a gorgeous set-up for a massive fairy garden. I made one for inside our home which took virtually a few hours to make. So, give it a shot … you’ll find the fun and magical mystery of creating your very own fairy garden. Photo credits: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1, 2), Julie Harris (3), Carolyn Plank (4)

< Back No More Stringy Petunias! Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. Read this article to learn what to do to keep your beautiful petunias looking full and fluffy. Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on, petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. So, what to do? Yank them out and put new ones in? Give up on them and replace them with a hardier plant, maybe a marigold? However, between replacing petunias and giving up on them altogether there is a third option: pruning them. Read on to learn how to prune petunias successfully. Pruning petunias will keep them full and fluffy all summer long. There is some work involved, but replacing petunias with more petunias or other flowers is also work. And not only that, it’s expensive and it involves running around to big box stores and nurseries to see if either one has any decent flowers left. In addition, pruning your petunias keeps your original design and color scheme in place and involves only minutes of work throughout the summer. To keep petunias blooming prolifically we must remember their mission, in fact the mission of all plants: to perpetuate the species. When the bloom on a petunia drops off its pod it creates a seed which will hopefully go on to create another petunia. Having accomplished its mission, the petunia dies in peace, leaving behind leggy and scraggly branches without flowers. The point of pruning is to send the opposite message to the petunia: you have not completed your mission. You have not set seed (because I have cut off all your seed pods). You must keep blooming, staying full and fluffy, until I decide to stop cutting them off (usually sometime in September, or sooner if we have an early frost). See the photo where the woman is about to cut off the pod where the bloom once grew? You must trim the petunia BEHIND THAT pod, which holds the seed, to convince the petunia she still has work to do and must continue to produce blooms. Petunias have many blooms and their seed pods often hide underneath the bottoms of branches, behind other blooming flowers. If you leave pruning them until they start to look “scraggly”, you may spend anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours pruning your petunias. It’s a tedious mission of search and destroy. There is an easier way . Buy a small pair of pointed scissors with colorful handles (so you can spot them in the soil) available at the Dollar Store or Michaels. In fact, buy one for every pot and bed of petunias if they are at some distance from each other. Stick the scissors point down into the pot or bed next to your petunias. Any time you are out in your yard inspecting or admiring your garden, check your petunias for spent blossoms and spend a minute or two cutting off the empty pods. A minute or two every day or so equals enough time to keep your petunias glorious all season. You can also prune for shape and form. If, in spite of your consistent pruning, your petunias develop leggy branches, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch in front of the new growth . You can also prune any branches that are not keeping to the design or shape you wish. Again, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch right in front of it. Do this consistently and the work will be minimal. Your petunias will outdo themselves producing blooms to complete their mission and you will enjoy full and fluffy petunias all summer! References: https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/growing-petunias https://icultivate.net/how-to-prune-petunias / https://www.epicgardening.com/prune-petunias/ https://www.gardendesign.com/how-to/prune-petunias.html Photo Credits: UMN Extension (1,4 ), Susan Ball (2,3)