< Back Planting Bulbs with your Growing Sprouts As the leaves fall and the temperatures begin to tumble, don’t forget to plant your favorite bulbs with a young gardener. Tulips are a perfect choice to plant in early November as long as you can dig in the ground. Daffodils’ ideal planting season is up until mid-October, but if the temperatures are warm and the ground workable, daffodils can be tried also. Your Growing Sprout will delight in the spring display. Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener What makes a spring bulb and why would I plant them? Spring Bulbs (Hardy Bulbs) are a plant that stores its complete life cycle in an underground enclosed compartment which contains all of the food needed for the plant to grow and flower. They need cold winter months or dormancy to build up the energy to grow and blossom in the spring. Spring bulbs come back year after year and provide beautiful spring flowers. Have your young gardener pick a sunny spot for your tulip garden and then go to your local gardening center to find just the perfect colors. Your young gardener will enjoy choosing the colors based on their favorite or mix and match for an added boost of color. Collect the Following : Trowel or Bulb Planter Spring Bulbs Garden Spot Gloves (optional) Garden markers (optional) Let’s Get Planting! One way to have your young gardener help is to place bulbs in the pattern desired whether that be by height, color or design. This is a perfect time to allow your young gardener to be creative. After the bulbs are laid out you can start digging the holes needed for each bulb. Spring bulbs should be planted in the ground 2-3 times the height of the bulb. Once the holes are prepared, it is time to plant. But before you place the bulb in the hole, let your young gardener identify the pointy end of the bulb. When planting, the pointy end needs to be planted upward . Begin placing each bulb (pointy side up) into the holes dug and then fill in the holes and pack the soil down. Markers can be placed near the planting area to remind you and your young gardener what and where you planted the spring bulbs. Now comes the hard part - waiting until spring to see the beautiful flowers that were planted. But, oh, what a glorious prize. Photo Credits: Stockcake.com (1), PickPik.com (2), www.pikist.com (3)

< Back Balsam Fir (Abies balsamea): A “Star of the North” Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens but as this article explains, providing greenery in Minnesota winters is just one of the benefits of having a Balsam Fir in your yard. Balsam Fir is a beautiful native tree worth consideration for your part shady yard. It might seem a bit early to talk about native evergreens, but as the Finns say, “You plan ahead beforehand”. Indeed, we are going to spend the next six months talking about a variety of native evergreens, welcome additions of green to our prolonged white winter landscapes. Of these various evergreens, balsam fir is a frequent forest highlight in central to northern Minnesota. It is native from Minnesota east to Maine and south into the Appalachians as far as West Virginia. It ranges from 45 to 70 feet in height, occasionally sprinting up to 90 feet. It has a distinctive narrow conic crown of long dark green needle-like leaves. Balsam fir will form 1 ½ to 3-inch seed cones which are long and dark purple, turning brown before dispersing its seeds in September. It is a member of the pine family (Pinaceae) and is the traditional Christmas tree. So, beware if your neighbor is spotted on your property in early December with an ax. If you wish to add some winter green to your landscape with balsam fir, make sure your climate is suitable. Balsam fir prefer cooler weather, ideally with a mean annual temperature of 40 degrees F. Practically speaking this means central to Northern Minnesota. Further south, make sure to protect it from the summer heat. Planting in moist well-drained soil on the north or east side of buildings would be a good idea. Balsam fir in the White Mountains] This penchant for shady, cooler areas can be helpful planting in otherwise difficult north or east courtyards, creating a cool, afternoon shaded site in the warmer months. Balsam fir’s ornamental aspects are substantive. The needles are pleasantly aromatic, soft, dark green, having a silver underside. The tree does tolerate partial shade well. If you are not looking for a 60-foot tree in your patio, Abies balsamea dwarf cultivars are available. They can serve as elegant evergreens for a cool, afternoon shade site, usually ranging in size from 3 to 6 feet. They can be used as a low screen or backdrop in difficult north or east facing courtyards. Check with your nursery for “Weeping Larry”, “Piccolo” or “Nana” cultivars of balsam fir. Needle like leaves of Abies balsamea Photo credits: Jeff Bisbe, treesandshrubsonline.org (1), www.treesandshrubsonline.org (2)

< Back Let’s Learn About Evergreens! Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. It would be quite the challenge to be able to identify all 100+ different species of pine, spruce, and fir trees. For now, let’s look at the big categories and the trees native to Minnesota that we see most often. Let’s ask a series of questions to figure out which evergreen we’re looking at. Q: SINGLE NEEDLES OR BUNDLES? How are needles attached to the branch—in small bundles of 2-5 needles or as single needles? A: BUNDLES. We have a pine tree! There are a few kinds we see a lot of in Minnesota. WHITE PINES have 5 needles in a bundle and are long (3-5”). RED PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are long (4-6”). JACK PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are short (1-1.5”). A: SINGLES. We have either a spruce or a fir tree. Let’s ask another question. Q: FLAT OR SQUARE? Pluck off a needle and roll it between your fingers. Is it hard to roll because it’s flat, or do you feel slight ridges as it rolls in your fingers because it’s square? A: FLAT. We have a fir tree. Balsam firs are common Minnesota firs. You might remember this by thinking of Fs: firs are flat and friendly (no sharp tips on the needles). A: SQUARE. We have a spruce tree. There are a variety of spruces, but here are three. WHITE SPRUCES have hairless branches. BLACK SPRUCES have tiny red hairs between needles on their branches. BLUE SPRUCES have needles with a slight blue tinge to the color. DO: Nature Walk and Quiz Go for a nature walk and see how many different kinds of evergreens you encounter. Bring back samples of the different needles or needle bundles that you find. Once you know the trees that each needle comes from, quiz another family member or a friend by laying out all your needles on a table. Can they guess correctly? Source: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back Rosemary Rosemary has been a prized herb with many uses for centuries. It has been associated with enhanced brain function, it has health benefits, it has a lovely scent and it adds flavor to your recipes. Read this article to learn more about this ancient herb and, if you don’t already grow this herb in your garden, why you should consider doing so next season. Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Rosemary is truly a very special herb and one of my very favorites. Today, we may love rosemary for its scent, use in the kitchen and decorative qualities but this is an herb that has been appreciated by humans for centuries. The use of rosemary has a long and distinguished history. The first known reference to rosemary dates back to Egyptian cuneiforms over 7,000 years ago. But most of the early references to this herb are from the Greeks and Romans, beginning around 500 B.C. Rosemary originated in the Mediterranean, especially around the coastal areas. Its name comes from ‘ros’ and ‘marinus’, which translates to ‘dew of the sea’. Originally classified as ‘rosmarinus officinalis’, in 2017 it was reclassified as ‘salvia rosmarinus’. Rosemary has long been associated with aiding in brain function. Greek scholars would braid it into their hair to help them with their studies. Today it is known to be rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. It is also known to help with digestion and hair growth and renewal. When used in cooking, it is used sparingly, as it has a very strong flavor and a little goes a long way. Rosemary is a perennial shrub in zones 7 to 10. Here in Minnesota, it is grown as an annual, as it cannot survive our harsh winters. My favorite way to grow rosemary is in combination containers. The ‘prostrata’ varieties have a trailing habit, and tuck right up to the edge and spill over, creating a fabulous lacy carpet. Since rosemary is slow growing, it will not overwhelm other plants. I purchase starters as early in the season as possible, which allows it to get bigger before I transplant it. This summer, I used several as a trailer in a container with a boxwood. A week before the temperatures were forecast to drop into the 40s, I repotted the rosemary into a smaller container all by itself to settle in before bringing it inside for the winter. It is a good candidate for overwintering, as you can leave it out much longer than other plants, and put it out again in early spring. The plant can survive a frost, so typically I bring it in around November, and put it out again in April. Once indoors for the winter, place it in a sunny spot, away from drafts. It likes humidity, but hates wet feet. Misting it often is recommended. Some winters I do not try to overwinter rosemary in containers. Instead, I just make a fresh rosemary bouquet. This works well for the upright versions. Cut the stems at the base of the plant and place in a container of water. Make sure you strip the leaves at the bottom, as they will rot in water (these can be used in your cooking). The rosemary bouquet eventually dwindles as you use it, however, it usually takes me through the holiday season before it is gone. Rosemary has been a prized herb with many uses for centuries for good reason. If you don’t already grow this herb in your garden, consider doing so next season. Photo Credit: kampung-kuliner.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Shari Mayer (2)

< Back You’ve Cleared the Buckthorn - Now What?? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Buckthorn! It’s not native to Minnesota but it has made itself quite comfortable here, hasn’t it? Read on, as Dakota County Master Gardener Sarah Heidtke discusses some actions to take for buckthorn management after you’ve cleared this invasive plant species out of your property. You’ve put in the work to clear your property of buckthorn. Congratulations! According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, buckthorn management is going to be a multi-year commitment. Why? Well, viable seeds in the soil can germinated for two years, and additional seeds can come in thanks to birds and other wildlife. Buckthorn freshly cleared The next steps to keep re-infestation of this invasive plant under control fall under three categories: Add more desirable new plants to minimize bare ground where invasive plants can take hold. Manually remove new buckthorn sprouts that come up - especially in the spring when they are easier to pull and again in the fall. Prioritize any berry-producing plants and if you can, work with your neighbors so that they do the same. Use herbicides for larger plants, following all labels and instructions. Buckthorn replacement species Determining what to plant next depends on your site conditions. University of Minnesota’s May 2024 “A guide to forest understory revegetation to help manage buckthorn and other invasive plants,” offers some great advice and a list of seed mix retailers. The goal is to out-compete new buckthorn sprouts, so seeding soon after large buckthorn removal is best. If the tree canopy has at least 10% of visible sky looking up from the ground, cool season grasses and wildflower seeds can germinate and grow quickly, making it harder for new buckthorn seeds to sprout. More shade-tolerant wildflowers can help suppress buckthorn in darker wooded areas, but you’ll need to be diligent about pulling buckthorn sprouts while the native plants get established. Native shrubs such as high-bush cranberry, nannyberry, chokecherry, pagoda dogwood, gray dogwood, elderberry, American hazelnut and black chokeberry are all identified by the University of Minnesota as healthy replacements for buckthorn. Buckthorn sky canopy Keep removing new buckthorn plants! Once all buckthorn has been cleared from your land, plan on walking your property to find and pull new buckthorn plants. The best time to find buckthorn is fall and early spring, when most plants other than buckthorn will be without leaves (MN DNR). Prioritize removing all of the berry-producing vegetation, in order to limit the ability of the buckthorn to expand. If the plant is too big to pull, the MN DNR suggests cutting the plant a few inches above the soil, and then preventing photosynthesis by either covering the stump with a can or dark bag or leaving a higher stump and continually removing any new green sprouts. See more instructions here . Buckthorn sprouts There are times when some property owners consider chemical herbicides as the best option for larger plants. Mid to late fall is ideal for applying herbicide, as the plant's sap flows toward the roots, allowing for maximum absorption. Since buckthorn keeps its leaves longer than most plants, you can minimize harm to other species that are dormant for winter (UMN Extension). Always follow product labels for safety and application directions. The label is the law. For more information on best practices for herbicide application, please refer to UMN Extension here: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/fall-good-time-remove-buckthorn . If you are treating near water, the MN DNR requests that you first contact the aquatic pesticide enforcement specialist for advice on less harmful herbicides for aquatic species. Buckthorn management is both a continual task and a community effort. Several cities in Dakota County also offer resources: Eagan https://cityofeagan.com/buckthorn Apple Valley https://www.applevalleymn.gov/679/Buckthorn Burnsville https://burnsvillemn.gov/818/Buckthorn Mendota Heights https://mendotaheightsmn.gov/537/Buckthorn-Removal Farmington https://cityoffarmington.hosted.civiclive.com/government/departments/natural_resources/weeds___plants/buckthorn Additional online references: https://mitppc.umn.edu/sites/mitppc.umn.edu/files/2024-06/Guide-to-forest-understory-revegetation-buckthorn-2024_3.pdf Buckthorn management does take commitment but know that you are building a healthier environment and growing some lovely plants in its place. Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,4), University of Minnesota (3), Michael Schuster, PhD University of Minnesota (4)

< Back Minnesota’s State Muffin and Its Star Ingredient: The Blueberry Blueberry season may be over this year, but as you reflect on this past year and contemplate what to plant next year, a beverage with a nice, big, blueberry muffin may inspire your garden plans. Is your mouth watering yet? Read about the blueberry muffin, some interesting information about growing and picking blueberries in Minnesota, and you’ll also find a couple of bonus recipes to try this winter! Lisa Olson, Master Gardener All 50 states have state symbols - some more than others. (Looking at you, Texas, with at least 70 state symbols!) Only three states, however, have a muffin symbol. New York chose the apple muffin, Massachusetts has the corn muffin, and in 1987 a group of elementary students from Carlton, Minnesota, near Duluth, began their quest to secure the blueberry muffin as the Minnesota state muffin. It was really an exercise in learning about the legislative process. And educational it was. Their first assignment was to choose the muffin flavor that best represented Minnesota. Blueberry was the students’ muffin of choice - fitting, since blueberries are grown across the state. After multiple trips to the capitol during the next session to watch the process of passing bills, the blueberry muffin eventually made its way through in 1988. Perhaps it helped that the “Blueberry Muffin Gang” from Carlton brought muffins for all the legislators on one of their trips in order to help their cause. Minnesota is home to two native blueberry plants: lowbush ( Vaccinium angustifolium ) and velvetleaf ( V. myrtilloides ). They are mostly found in the northeast part of the state, but they can be found across the state from the northwest to the far southeast corner as well. Wild blueberries are generally much smaller than cultivated blueberries so growing blueberries commercially in Minnesota was a challenge because of the cold climate. That changed when the University of Minnesota began researching and breeding cold-hardy, large-fruited cultivars in the 1960’s. Larger berries, taller plants making picking the fruit easier, and breeding for harvesting over a longer season have all greatly improved the commercial production and also provided home growers with more varieties to choose from. The University of Minnesota even cultivated a pink variety. Yes, a pink blueberry! If you are interested in growing blueberries at your home, the University of Minnesota is a great resource to help you select the right plant for your conditions, and for planting and maintaining tips. Here are some quick facts to get you started: Not interested in growing your own? You can still pick your own. There are numerous pick-your-own farms in Minnesota. If you are feeling a little more adventurous, you can pick wild blueberries. Minnesota state parks, Superior National Forest lands, state forest lands, and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area all actually allow berry picking for personal consumption. If you pick an abundance, they freeze well so you can enjoy them all year. Here are a couple of recipes to enjoy. Even though blueberry picking season in Minnesota ends in July or August, blueberry muffins are always in season. The muffin recipe is the official state muffin recipe from the Minnesota Secretary of State website. The pie recipe is especially good for fall and winter occasions with cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice. You will need some fresh blueberries, so thankfully it is always blueberry season somewhere in the world! The combination of fresh and cooked berries make this pie unique and especially delicious. Enjoy! Blueberry Muffin Recipe By Shari Baker, Gunflint Pines Resort 2 c. Flour ½ c. Sugar 1 T. Baking powder ½ t. Salt 1 T. Orange zest (grated peel) 1 c. Blueberries (fresh, dried, or frozen—Do not thaw or rehydrate) 1 c. White Chocolate Chips (*optional, but great!) 1-¼ c. Buttermilk 1 Egg ½ t. Vanilla Sugar in the Raw (large-grain brown sugar) Preheat oven to 425F. Mix buttermilk, egg, and vanilla; set aside. Mix dry ingredients, orange zest, blueberries, and white chocolate chips. Make well in center, pour in liquid mixture, and stir lightly just until mixed. Spoon into lined or greased muffin tins. Top with sugar in the raw, and bake for 20 to 22 minutes. Makes a “baker’s dozen”. New England Blueberry Pie 4 c. fresh blueberries ½ c. sugar ½ c. brown sugar, packed 1 Tbsp. lemon juice ¼ tsp. allspice ¼ tsp. cinnamon ⅛ tsp. nutmeg ¼ tsp. salt 1 8-9” baked pie shell In a saucepan, combine 2 c. berries with sugar, flour, butter, lemon juice, and all the spices and salt. Cook over low heat to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes or until thick. Cool. When cool, add the remaining 2 c. of blueberries. Transfer all of the blueberry mixture into the cooled pie shell. Chill pie. Serve with whipped cream. Resources: https://www.startribune.com/minnesota-symbols-blueberry-muffin-carlton-south-terrace/600172953/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2023/jul-aug/bucket.html https://mnhardy.umn.edu/blueberries https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-blueberries-home-garden#staking-and-support-19061 https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-muffin-blueberry/ https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/commercial-blueberry-production-minnesota-and-wisconsin Photo credits: Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Courtesy of University of Minnesota (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back A Tree for All Seasons: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener For the smaller yard, a smaller tree can be just the right touch. A forty-foot oak might be a bit overpowering, but a so-called “understory tree” can be the perfect landscaping accent to make the house appear to be a welcoming homestead. One excellent candidate is the native Serviceberry. Over the next three months we’ll take a look at several native understory trees that could well fit the bill for that yard accent piece. One excellent candidate is the Serviceberry . It actually is a group of about twenty different species grouped under the genius Amelanchier . As you might expect such a heterogeneous group goes by several names in addition to serviceberry, including shadbush, shadwood or shadblow, sarvisberry (or just sarvis), juneberry, saskatoon, sugarplum, wild-plum or chuckley pear. They comprise a group of deciduous-leaved shrubs and small trees in the rose family. The complexity of genus and variety arise from Serviceberry’s propensity to hybridize. So, much variation in size and coloration exists within the genus. That’s why you should read the descriptive information carefully for whatever variety you select, to make sure its characteristics fit your needs. The origin of the name is up for grabs. One story has it that Serviceberry started blooming in early spring at the same time that the valleys in the Appalachian Mountains became passable and circuit-riding preachers could again hold church services. Another maintains that the blooming of Serviceberry announced the time that the thawing ground could again be broken so as to allow graves to be dug and those Dear Departed that had been in “cold storage” for the winter could be interred with proper services. A less colorful, and probably more reliable, proposition has it that the genus was named after the European Sorbus , a genus also of the rose family with a number of similarities. Serviceberry's outstanding fall color Amelanchier is native to most of North America, being more prolific in the Eastern states and provinces. They can grow as either a shrub or tree ranging in height from 6 to 25 feet with similar widths. Depending on the variety, they are hardy from Zones 2 through 9. Blooming in early spring, most produce beautiful five-petal blossoms ranging from pink to white to yellow. Although the blooms usually last no more than one to two weeks, the plant produces vibrant blue/green foliage which turns a brilliant bronze in the fall. After blooming, clusters of berries form on mature plants, ripening to a deep red, then purple, during the summer. The silvery bark provides a striking accent in winter. Like most native perennials, Amelanchier is a great favorite of pollinators. Serviceberry will form multiple stems However, such a desirable plant is not without its needs. Both deer and rabbits like to browse most varieties, so you should consider placing protective guards around the young trees for the first couple of years. Many insects and diseases that attack orchard trees also affect this genus, in particular trunk borers and rusts . In years when late flowers of Amelanchier overlap those of wild roses, pollinators may spread fire blight. Serviceberries do well in full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight) to part shade (2 to 6 hours). They do best in a moist, loamy, self drained soil that is a bit acidic. Some species do well in boggie areeas and can look great near ponds or streams. They look well in boarders to naturalized areas. Planting is done best in the fall or, preferably, in the spring. A thick mulch applied around the plant will help it establish itself. You’ll want to keep the mulch away from the bark itself, however. Water well and apply a bit of all –purpose fertilizer in the spring and you should be well on your way to having a dazzling year-round garden gem. Photo credits: Dan Mullen www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,3)

< Back Peppers, Peppers, Peppers! Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardeners Unfortunately, we have reached the time of year when fresh vegetables from your own garden are not available. If you were a diligent vegetable gardener, like Joy Johnson, you will be rewarded with a freezer full of fall harvested vegetables like peppers and tomatoes. In this article, Joy offers two recipes – pepper steak and stuffed peppers – that will be delicious whether the vegetables came from your garden or the supermarket. Just enjoy! It’s December and your garden is (or will be) sleeping under a blanket of snow. However, if your harvest back in October was anything like mine, you may have a freezer full of tomatoes and peppers. Pepper steak is a delicious, warming winter recipe that uses lots of tomatoes and peppers, either fresh or frozen. It’s spiced with ginger, garlic and soy sauce with optional crushed red pepper flakes if you like extra heat. Serve it on a bed of rice or dip your favorite hearty crusty bread into the ample juice to soak up every last drop. I had so many tomatoes and peppers that I quintupled (5x) this recipe, and it turned out great. Pepper Steak Ingredients: 1 pound sirloin or round steak sliced thin against the grain ¼ cup soy sauce divided 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 cup low-sodium beef broth 4 tablespoons vegetable oil divided 2 large bell peppers cubed, (red, green, yellow, orange or all of them mixed) 1 large onion sliced into wedges 1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper 3 cloves garlic minced 1 tablespoon fresh ginger minced or grated ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional) 2 large tomatoes cubed (or several small) Cooked rice for serving Soy sauce for serving Process: Pour 2 tablespoons soy sauce and sugar over sliced steak. Marinate for 30 minutes or up to 4 hours. In a small bowl or 2 cup measure, combine the cornstarch, beef broth and 2 tablespoons soy sauce. Whisk until blended. Set aside. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the beef and cook until browned around the edges. Turn the beef slices over and continue cooking for about 2 minutes more. Remove to a plate and keep warm. Repeat with another tablespoon of oil and more sliced beef until all meat is browned. Pour the last tablespoon of oil into the pan. Add the bell pepper, onions and black pepper. Sauté until the vegetables are crisp tender and slightly charred, for about 5 to 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium. Add garlic, ginger and crushed red pepper flakes if using. Sauté, stirring constantly until the garlic is fragrant, for about 1 minute. Return the cooked beef to the pan, along with any accumulated juices, and the beef broth mixture. Cook until the sauce thickens, for about 3 to 5 minutes. Gently fold in the tomatoes and stir to coat. Remove from the heat and serve immediately. Garnish with additional black pepper and serve over hot cooked rice. Pass additional soy sauce for serving if desired. Stuffed Peppers Ingredients 1 pound ground beef 1 yellow onion, diced 2 teaspoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic 1 cup uncooked brown instant rice (Standard rice is fine but will take longer to cook) 6 bell peppers, any color 15-ounce can diced tomatoes 8-ounce can tomato sauce 2 teaspoons Italian seasoning 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon chili powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1 cup shredded cheese, divided Instructions Cook rice according to the directions and set aside. In a large pan, sauté the onions until they become translucent. Add the ground beef and cook until no longer pink. Add garlic and continue to cook for another 30 seconds. Cut off the tops of all six bell peppers and remove the membranes and seeds. Set aside. Add the diced tomatoes, tomato sauce, Italian seasoning, garlic powder, chili powder, salt, and pepper and stir to combine. Add the rice and half the cheese and stir. Fill each pepper completely with the mixture, then sprinkle the remaining cheese on top. Optional – a can of enchilada sauce over the top can be a delicious addition. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Freeze any extra mixture for later. To freeze, place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and put in the freezer for 2-3 hours. Then transfer to a gallon-size freezer bag. Thaw overnight and bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Photos Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)

< Back Teaming with Microbes, by Jeff Lowenfels The book, Teaming with Microbes, may leave a reader inspired to learn more and in awe of the world below their feet. If that is the case, Jeff Lowenfels' book may be a good next choice. Reviewed by Stacy Reeves Teaming with Microbes by Jeff Lowenfels was recommended to me upon the purchase of my first worm bin. As I took a dive into the world of vermicomposting (or perhaps I should say tunneled into), Lowenfels' book was just the ticket to increase my passion for caring for these invertebrates. Though it's not an instructional on the do's and don'ts of worm bedding, food and breeding, it does highlight the many benefits worms and other soil life contribute to a gardener's goals. Lowenfels' book is a wealth of information concerning the soil food web. It contains 24 chapters reviewing the complex relationships of anything from bacteria to mammals to trees. If a gardener is interested in soil health, organic gardening, or maximizing nature's processes, Teaming with Microbes is a great read. Lowenfels highlights how slime, wastes, exudates, and tunnels work together to create soil that is not only rich in nutrients but, more specifically, rich in nutrients that have been transformed and unlocked in such a way to be readily available for plant use. The book would be worth a second read or to be used as a reference for gardeners working to "team" as effectively as possible with their garden soil's inhabitants and systems. The overarching lesson of the book is that it's far better to encourage nature's systems than to override them and therefore, Lowenfels speaks against chemical treatments. He highlights the symbiotic, complex and dynamic relationships that exist best with all the "good guys and bad guys" at play.

< Back Mycelium Running: How Mushrooms Can Help Save the World Mushrooms – not just for eating anymore. Ren Henry reviews Paul Stamets’ fascinating book about the value that mushrooms bring to the environment. It turns out that mushrooms can help the landscape in ways you probably have never thought about. Paul Stamets Reviewed by Ren Henry What do we use mushrooms for? Mostly we eat them, and that’s about it. Have you ever stopped to think about the other uses for mushrooms? In Paul Stamets’ 2005 book, Mycelium Running: How Mushrooms Can Help Save the World , the celebrated mycologist explores the various ways mushrooms can be used in the landscape to help remediate various ecological settings. This is what he terms “mycorestoration”. The book is divided into three parts: first explaining how mushrooms grow, then how mycorestoration works, and finally how to grow specific types of mushrooms. Mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of the mycelial mat, which intertwines within the soil. Stamets’ view is that the mycelial mat can be used to provide additional nutrients to plants and to more quickly remediate soil after a forest fire. He also provides evidence that some mushroom species are hyper-accumulators of heavy metals and could theoretically be used to clean up waste sites by inoculating the soil with mycelium and harvesting the mushrooms for incineration. He also demonstrates that the use of mycelium when returning old roads to nature speeds up the process significantly. In sum, Stamets’ main point is that the mycelial mat and the mushrooms it produces could be a tool for improving our landscape and remediating ecological disasters in a quick and cost-efficient manner. The book, deals with some technical topics but is easy to read and understand. While somewhat out of date, the website that the text often refers to is still accessible today, with current information. Even sixteen years after publication, the book still has lots to teach about the value that mushrooms can bring to the landscape, even when they aren’t an edible variety. Photo Credit: Ren Henry (1)

< Back Pruning Tomato Plants For many of us, the thought of cutting off parts of a healthy plant is hard. Why would you want to do that? The answer is explained in this article about pruning tomato plants. Hint – pruning can protect your tomato plant from disease and produce more fruit – who doesn’t want more tomatoes? So, read on to learn more about why and how to prune your tomatoes for a successful crop. Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the hardest things I do in the garden - emotionally, not physically - is pruning. The thought of cutting off healthy parts of a plant seems somehow wrong. But, in fact, it is one of the steps you can take to promote greater vegetable production in many varieties of plants, particularly tomatoes. Pruning is the process of selectively removing parts of a plant to promote healthy plant growth. Pruning can help increase fruit size and overall production. It can also help reduce the occurrence of diseases in the plant. A primary focus of pruning in tomatoes is on suckers. Suckers are the growth that appears at the intersection of two branches. These suckers compete with the primary stem causing an overabundance of vegetative growth and resulting in reduced flowering, fruit set, and yield. If you are hesitant to cut that healthy looking stem and leaf, remind yourself that you are growing the plant for the fruit it will produce, not for the foliage. Photo credit: Linda Stein Another reason to remove the suckers is that the removal of excess growth will promote air circulation in the plant allowing the plant to dry out more quickly after a rain or after watering. In addition, when I first plant my tomatoes, I prune some of the lower branches to reduces the risk of soil splatter that can bring diseases to the plant. Photo credit: Linda Stein However, in general the best time to do major pruning depends on the type of tomato plant you are growing – determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are those that grow to a predetermined height and produce all their fruit within a few weeks. These plants should be pruned when they get to be about 1 - 2 feet tall. Only prune those suckers that appear below the first fruit cluster . Research has shown that it doesn’t help to remove suckers above. Indeterminate tomatoes are those that continue to grow and produce over the course of the growing season. These plants should be pruned frequently along the full length of the plant. As soon as either of these plant types set fruit, it is suggested that you thin lower foliage and suckers to improve airflow and reduce the severity of leaf spot diseases. Prune by pinching off the growth you wish to remove. If the piece is too thick to pinch, cut with a clean shear. In all cases, do not prune more than 1/3 of the plant. Proper pruning as part of your gardening routine should help promote healthy plants with maximum yield. Here’s to a bumper crop of fresh tomatoes. References: How to Prune Tomatoes , Iowa State University, (YouTube) Pruning Greenhouse Tomatoes for Optimum Yield , https://e-gro.org/pdf/E208.pdf How to Properly Prune Your Tomatoes , LSU College of Agriculture, http://www.lsuagcenter.com/topics/lawn_garden/home_gardening/vegetables/home_garden_crops/pruningtomatoes Pruning Tomato Plants , UNH Cooperative Extension, https://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource000598_Rep620.pdf

< Back Summer Sweetcorn: Midwest Magic Sweetcorn in the summer, fresh from the field, hot out of the pot. That is a potent memory for any kid lucky enough to grow up in the Midwest. For those of you that are thinking about recapturing some of those childhood memories, there is great news. Modern sweetcorn hybrids are available that make it easier to bring quality corn to the table. To get that delicious ear of memory, however, there are a few things you must do to assure success. Read this article to successfully grow your sweetcorn memories. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner First, it’s a good idea to get your soil tested. The University Extension can do that inexpensively ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ). Apply phosphorus and potassium as recommended by the test results. Corn grows best in well-drained, organic-rich soil at a pH around 5.8 to 7.0. The soil test can help getting the pH right. Working organic mulch and/or compost into the soil will also increase its richness. If you have any questions, you can contact the University Extension for help ( https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden/contacts-yard-and-garden ). When planting the seeds (kernels) you should sew at least four rows. To produce, the corn must either self or cross-pollinate with a similar variety. If the wind does not blow the pollen from stalk to stalk, blank spots will appear on the ears, where pollination failed. That’s why you want your cornstalks huddled together. Wait until the soil temperature is at least 60o. Plant the kernels about an inch deep 30 to 36 inches apart. It probably is best just to plant one variety of sweetcorn in a small garden. If different strains cross-pollinate the result is usually an ear with poorer flavor and texture. Once the seedlings sprout, you’ll want to keep up the watering. Drought can badly stress the developing ears and greatly reduce quality. About an inch of water a week usually does the trick. You will also want to start hoeing before the weeds get out of hand. When cultivating, use a shallow stroke just below the soil surface. Sweetcorn roots are shallower than field corn so you don’t want to get too vigorous and damage your plants. As the corn gets taller it will tend to shadow out the weeds and make your job easier. The most common corn insect pests are the European corn borer and the corn earworm. If you do find a caterpillar near the tip of the ear as you husk it, don’t be alarmed. They are common. Cut the affected part off and cook the rest. A lot of insect problems can be avoided by delaying planting until the soil has warmed to 60o (usually by mid-May) and using a variety that will mature in less than 80 days. You should harvest your corn when the kernels in the center of the ear are full and “milky” when squeezed. You should watch for this when the silks start to brown and dry. This usually happens about 18 to 24 days after they first appear. Of course, you’ll want to eat as much as you can while it is fresh, but once you‘ve had your fill there are several ways to preserve your harvest. Depending on the variety you can store the ears in the refrigerator for one to seven days before they lose their flavor. If you want to can the corn you must use a pressure canner. If you have the space, freezing is an excellent way to preserve sweetcorn. We have removed the kernels from the cob, boiled and bagged before freezing with great corn, months after August harvest. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)