< Back Cold Stratification for Seed Starting Starting seeds indoors can be a rewarding process for home gardeners. It provides a welcome activity as we anticipate the arrival of spring and it can be more cost-effective than purchasing plants. However, not all seeds are ready to sow directly from the packet and may require some extra preparation and time before sowing. Understanding the germination needs for specific plants is very important. By knowing these requirements, gardeners can successfully start seeds indoors and get a head start on the growing season. Read this article to understand how to provide cold stratification for the plants that need it. Jessie Thompson, Dakota County Master Gardener Cold Stratification Starting seeds indoors can be a rewarding process for home gardeners. It provides a welcome activity as we anticipate the arrival of spring and can be more cost-effective than purchasing plants. However, not all seeds are ready to sow directly from the packet and may require some extra preparation and time before sowing. Understanding the germination needs for specific plants is very important. By knowing these requirements, gardeners can successfully start seeds indoors and get a head start on the growing season. This article to explains the process of cold stratification for the plants that need it. Certain seeds, such as Milkweed, Purple Coneflower and Black-Eyed Susan, benefit from a period of cold stratification before planting. Cold stratification is a process where seeds are exposed to moisture and cold temperatures. This helps break their dormancy and promotes successful germination. Purple Coneflower In Minnesota, this process occurs naturally outdoors. Plants produce seeds in late summer, which are then exposed to snow and low temperatures during the winter. As the snow melts and the weather warms in spring, these seeds sprout. This adaptation ensures seeds and plants in areas with cold winters germinate in spring when conditions are optimal for growth instead of prematurely in the fall when new seedlings would be too fragile to survive the winter. Many Minnesota native plants require this cold stratification process to germinate. Home gardeners can mimic these cold, moist conditions indoors using a refrigerator. The length of time required for cold stratification varies by plant species, typically ranging from one to three months. For example, Purple Coneflower seeds require about 60 days of cold treatment. Always consult the seed packet for specific germination instructions, if stratification is needed and recommended time to start seed indoors. If seeds are collected and saved without packaging, be sure to research germination needs for the plant species. The beginning months of the year are an ideal time to begin cold stratification for seeds that require longer periods of cold. Starting early allows seeds to be grown indoors and planted outside in spring after danger of last frost. Artificial Cold Stratification at Home Refrigerator Cold/Moist Stratification Materials needed: Refrigerator, Paper Towel, Resealable Plastic Bag, Permanent Marker, Thermometer (if needed) Moisten a paper towel so it is damp but not soggy. Wring the paper towel out until no excess water drips out. Using paper towel that is too wet can lead to mold. Next, place the seeds in a single layer on half of the paper towel and then fold over other half so that it covers the seeds. Use a permanent marker to label a bag with the plant name, the date started and date to remove from the refrigerator after the amount of time indicated on the seed packet. Then transfer the paper towel and seeds into the bag and seal. Place the bag in the refrigerator at a temperature between 33°F and 40°F. Set a reminder on your phone or calendar for the future date when the seeds should be removed. Check the seeds weekly to monitor the moisture, ensuring that the paper towel does not dry out or has become too wet. If the paper towel is too dry, mist with a spray bottle until damp. If the paper towel is too wet, it could be replaced with a new damp paper towel. If any seeds have sprouted, they can be planted right away into small pots with a seed-starting mix indoors. If the seeds have not sprouted yet, they can be sown into pots once the cold moist stratification period is complete. Visit the University of Minnesota Yard and Garden site for useful tips for starting seeds indoors: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#when-to-plant-seeds-1178964 By following these steps and taking the time for artificial cold stratification, you’ll set up your seeds for successful germination. Common Milkweed Sources and for more in-depth reading : 1 . Seed stratification: What seeds require cold treatment. (2022, January 27). Illinois Extension. https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2022-01-27-seed-stratification-what-seeds-require-cold-treatment 2. Capon, B. (2005) Botany for Gardeners 3. Unknown. (n.d.). Native seed propagation methods. https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/Portals/0/Shaw%20Nature%20Reserve/PDFs/horticulture/Propagation.pdf 4. USDA NRCS Elsberry Plant Materials Center, Britton, N., 1913, Brown, N., Henry, J., Bruckerhoff, S., & Kaiser, J. (2003). Plant fact sheet . https://plants.usda.gov/DocumentLibrary/factsheet/pdf/fs_ecpa.pdf Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,4), Jessie Thompson (2,3)

< Back Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii): A Midwestern Tall Grass Icon Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Beginning this month, Dakota County Master Gardener Jim Lakin, begins a series on native prairie perennials. He begins with a prairie star grass – Big Bluestem. This tall, hardy grass is found throughout North America and puts on an elegant show in the garden. Learn more about how and why to grow this iconic, prairie grass. Over the past half-year we’ve been talking about perennial native vines, highlighting some of the great Midwestern twiners. For the rest of the year, I’d like to switch focus to a group of Midwestern plants that are iconic to our native landscape--prairie perennials. As you probably have guessed if you follow this column, perennials are the most diverse group of plants in the Midwest. They are classified into three major groups: Prairie, Woodland and Wetland, depending on their preferred environment. Given the warming planet we live in, we’ll take a look at those guys that do best in full sun in upland prairies or meadows. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension Big bluestem Andropogon gerardii was one of the first flora to greet European settlers as they pressed across the vast plains of the Midwest, being one of the grasses of the tallgrass prairie. It is native to most of North America from the Rockies to the Atlantic seaboard. It is hardy throughout the Midwest, suitable for zones 4 through 9. One caution though when you are purchasing seed or plants. Make sure that you have a variety from the region in which you intend to plant it. Southern varieties tend not to flower in northern regions, having a different climatic rhythm. So, when purchasing seed, it is best to turn to a Northern Midwestern nursery. Big bluestem does best in full sun, as we have said, but will get along in partial shade. It prefers rich loam but will grow in poorer, drier soils albeit to a lesser height. Once established, it is remarkably drought resistant. Also, it has few pests and requires little care. It usually is easiest to grow from seed. Some recommend cutting back the old stems in late winter, before new growth appears. Although I prefer to leave my plantings alone. It’s mostly a matter of aesthetics. Photo credit: Missouri Botanical Garden Big bluestem works best in natural landscapes or in prairie restorations. It readily reseeds so with time it will form dense plantings. It will grow to 3 to 8 feet, depending on soil conditions and moisture. Keep in mind that big bluestem will compete successfully with other prairie plants, crowding them out in a couple of seasons, if densely planted. A stand of big bluestem can be quite elegant. The tall flowering stems are usually topped with a triple inflorescence. This three-pronged flowering resembles a Turkey Foot, thus giving the grass it’s alternate name. A steel blue to purple stem supports the flowering. Come fall, you can expect a warm gold to orange-russet coloration, perfect for harvest home! Photo credit: Missouri Botanical Garden

< Back Bleach Dying Dark T-Shirts Joy Johnson, Master Gardener We’re always looking for activities for our children or grandchildren in the summer. A fun summer project to do with children, or adults for that matter, is bleach dying. It’s cheap, fairly easy, fun and educational. In this article you will learn how to use plants from your garden to create a fun and pretty design through bleach dying. A fun summer project to do with children, or adults for that matter, is bleach dying. It’s cheap, fairly easy, fun and educational. I think in lists, so this is written as a list, it may seem long, but the actually process goes quite quickly. I just didn’t want to leave anything out, so you can have a successful product. 1. Wear really old clothes and shoes that you don’t care about (or go barefoot). 2. Warn anyone who has cuts or scrapes on their hands, as children often do, this will sting a bit, so prepare them for that. It does do a really good job of cleaning their hands! I would not wear gloves; you need to be able to grab and move wet delicate leaves and coins quickly and carefully. 3. Equipment needed: a. Two large buckets (5 gallon) b. Bleach c. Vinegar d. A medium sized spray bottle to put the bleach in. e. Lots of coins to use as weights. Rocks don’t work, I tried that. f. Water g. Kneeling pad if you’re doing this on the ground. h. A large place to work outside (I strongly suggest concrete). DO NOT work on the grass. The bleach will kill the grass. i. A dark colored t-shirt, one for each person, in their size. I chose black, but red, dark green and navy blue or brown work too. j. Cardboard or layers of newspaper to put inside the shirts so the bleach doesn’t soak through. Remember though, the shirt needs to lay flat. k. Extra-large weights for pressing down leaves that tend to curl. I used a piece of plywood and a wooden block. 4. Process: a. Half fill spray bottles with bleach. Rinse them off in case you dripped some on the outside. b. Fill one large bucket about 2/3 full with cold water. Add 2 cups of vinegar. This is your first rinse water. c. Fill the other bucket about 2/3 full with cold water. This is your second rinse water. d. Go snip or pick some leaves, ferns, flowers etc. Just remember that they need to lay flat. It’s helpful to choose leaves that have hair or fuzz on one side because they will stick to the shirt and you can gently press them flat with your hand. e. Put the cardboard inside the shirt. f. Lay the shirt flat on the concrete. g. Lay leaves and ferns on the shirt in whatever design you choose. h. Weigh them down with coins, being very careful to not let the coin go past the edge of the leaf. i. Use plywood or heavy blocks to press delicate curly or especially stubborn leaves that don’t want to lay flat. (Depending on what you have, it might take a while for them to relax and flatten out) this would be a good time to have a snack and work on identifying the various plants that were chosen. j. Remove any large weights carefully. k. Spritz shirt with bleach by standing above it and spraying straight down. DO NOT spray at an angle or you will get bleach under the edge of the leaves and your design won’t be crisp. l. DO NOT overuse the bleach. Wait about 5 seconds and the shirt should start to fade and show other colors. This part is quite fun, because you never know what colors are going to appear. m. Don’t wait too long. The bleach acts quickly and will eat holes in your shirt if you don’t get it in the vinegar water. n. Quickly and carefully remove the coins and leaves. DO NOT let them tip and drip bleach on your shirt. Remember they are covered with bleach. Any drips will show immediately. If you look carefully at the photos, I was moving too fast and dripped a couple of times when removing coins from the morning glory leaves. You can see that a couple of the leaves have drippy dots on them. o. Pick up the shirt by the shoulders and immediately immerse it into the vinegar water bucket. Swish it around, loosen it up, work the vinegar water all through it while counting to 60. p. Squeeze it gently over the bucket q. Immerse it in the plain water bucket and again swish it around and work the plain water all through it, this time count backwards from 60! r. Gently squeeze the shirt letting the water drain back into the bucket. s. Hang on the clothesline to dry t. Or you can wash all your shirts in your washing machine with a bit of detergent in cold water and tumble dry. Make sure no other clothes get washed with the shirts for this first wash. If you’re going to do this, have an empty, clean bucket or laundry basket by your work area to transport them to the machine. Otherwise, you’re going to have a trail of drips from outside all the way to your machine. u. Throw all your leaves and ferns in the trash. v. Rinse off all the coins in the plain water before returning them to your pocket! w. Throw cardboard away or recycle. x. Empty all of the spray bottles back into the large bleach container and thoroughly rinse them OR clearly label them “Bleach.” y. Empty the water buckets and return all other supplies. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back DIY Suet/Seed Feeders for our Feathered Friends BJ Hansell, Master Gardener As I write this, it’s nearly Halloween. Outside there is a flurry of activity. A multitude of birds including blue jays, cardinals, woodpeckers (both hairy & downy), house and gold finches, juncos, and my absolute favorites - chickadees, are flitting about. They voraciously attack and consume seeds and nuts in preparation for the rapidly approaching winter. Read this article to see how you and the child in your life can help our feathered friends. I have quite a variety of seeds, nuts, and suet feeders. But in December the kids are getting restless for something to do. The ever popular “I’m bored,” resonates through the house. I’m eager to have them take a break from screen time. How about crafting homemade bird feeders? There are several hands-on options for nearly any age to show their creativity. The projects tend to be a bit messy. But hey, when you’re a kid messy is GOOD. While we work on the feeders, we can discuss: o the different birds that hang out in the yard, o how to identify them o what they prefer to eat o where they sleep & seek shelter from the weather For example: About black-capped chickadees : o Males & Females look the same; a small gray bird with a black cap and throat patch. Tan sides & belly; white chest; small white wing marks. o Small Pointy beak o Seeds black oil sunflower, safflower; peanuts; mealworms o Cavity dweller, found in forests, woodlots, backyard nest box The recipes, supplies and instructions for making these birdfeeders appear at each of the listed sites. Song bird seed mix is available in most any grocery or home improvement store. Traditionally suet is made from rendered animal fat. The recipes here substitute shortening (Audubon) and gelatin (NWF). The pine cone feeders use peanut butter (Cornell). 1- Audubon Recipe , Materials are listed below the Video Demonstration: 2- NWF: Suet Ornaments (can use the Audubon Recipe): 3- Cornell Lab: Pine Cone Feeders DO NOT forget a source of water. Bon Appé-TWEET! Credit: https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Black-capped_Chickadee/overview# Photo credits: www.midgetmomma.com (All Creative Commons) (1), www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2,3)

< Back Moving Houseplants Outdoors for a Summer Vacation Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener You have been enjoying your indoor plants during our long, cold winter. But soon it will be time to think about transitioning some of those plants outdoors. March might seem a bit early to think about moving your indoor plants to the outdoors but plants do require a transition time and warm weather will be here sooner than you think. There are many reasons that you might move your houseplants outdoors for the summer. But there are several things to consider to ensure that your plants flourish as a result of this move. As we plan our outdoor gardens, we consider which plants can survive in the different environments in our yards, taking into account the amount of sun and the type of soil. When we obtain plants for inside our homes, we are selecting plants that can survive in the environment inside our homes. These plants do not require full sun. But they can definitely benefit from a visit outdoors. Why would you want to bring your houseplants outdoors? Sun First of all, the plants can benefit from the stronger sun rays. The strength of the sun’s rays is significantly stronger outdoors even than the sun a plant receives when placed by a south-facing window. Easter Cactus moved outdoors bloomed for the first time Rain Secondly, the plants can benefit from rainfall. Slightly acidic ph is better for overall soil health and makes nutrients more available. Rain water generally has a ph between 5.0 and 5.5. (The acidity scale runs from 0 to 14 with lower levels indicating high acid levels and higher levels more alkaline.) The acidity of tap water varies among communities but generally has a ph between 6 and 8.5. So, the acidity level of rain can strengthen plants. Rainwater also contains nutrients that can benefit the plants themselves. In addition, rain can wash the dust and other particles that have been collected on your houseplants. They’re Pretty! Finally, houseplants can be used to beautify your deck or patio and eliminate or reduce the need to purchase plants that you will discard at the end of summer. The plants can also be incorporated into your garden, either directly in the ground or by placing the potted plant among your outdoor plants. Things to Think About Temperature : The move outdoors shouldn’t begin until the temperature is above 50 or 60 degrees. Phases : Make the move in phases. First move all your plants to a shady area, even those plants that can benefit from stronger sunlight. Keep plants that prefer shade (those plants that weren’t kept near a south-facing window), in this location. Other plants should be moved to a sunny location over the course of a week or 10 days. Water : Plants do require a difference in care outdoors than indoors. First of all, plants grow more quickly during the summer months and this growth spurt will generally be intensified when plants are placed outdoors. Therefore, plants will require more water and more fertilizer. The amount of water and the frequency of watering will depend on the type of plant, the type of pot (clay pots are porous and therefore moisture will escape through the pots while water in plastic pots can only be absorbed in the soil and can only escape through drainage holes), and other factors such as the amount of rain and humidity. Water your plants on their schedule, not yours. Check to see if your plant needs watering by sticking a finger about ½ inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, water. Fertilizer : House plants should not be fertilized during the winter months. During those months when there is reduced light and temperature, they experience reduced growth. However, they will benefit from fertilizer during the summer months. This is particularly true if the plants have been moved outdoors. Be sure to use fertilizer that is labeled for indoor plants and follow the instructions on the package regarding the amount and frequency of application. Too much fertilizer can result in a buildup of salts and excessive, leggy growth. Repotting : When outside you might want to repot those plants that have become root-bound so you won’t create a mess indoors. Some signs that your plant may need repotting include, roots growing through the drainage holes, the plant becoming top-heavy, or the plant growing slower than in the past. When transplanting to another pot, the new pot should only be 1-2 inches larger than the original pot. The Negatives Keep in mind things that might negatively impact your plants. Large rainfalls and heavy winds might have adverse effects on plants. Remember to consider the amount of rainfall the plants experienced when deciding when your plants need watering. Watch for heavy winds that might cause large or top-heavy plants to fall over. Watch for signs that your plants are sun-scorched. Indications of sun scorch are leaves that become brittle and turn yellow or brown. Generally, if caught early, you can remove the impacted leaves and move the plants to a shadier location. Watch for pests that might set up household on your plants or the pots holding your plants. Many of these pests don’t harm your plants, but you will want to eliminate them before moving your plants back indoors. Photo Credit: Carol Fuerstneau (1), Linda Stein (2, 3), Steve Greenstein (4)

< Back Building a Pollinator Garden Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” This may or may not be a true Albert Einstein quote but the concept is valid. We need bees and all pollinators. Approximately 75% of the world’s flowering plants require a pollinator to reproduce. Pollinators help produce one-third of our food. It’s hard to imagine a diet without many fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Yet, pollinators are at serious risk. You can learn more about this risk at the Bee Lab at the University of Minnesota . But the purpose of this article to focus attention not on the risk, but on what we can do to help. Here are some suggestions. 1. Rethink your lawn! Perfectly manicured grass does nothing for pollinators. Maybe it’s time to let some dandelions and clovers grow in that back corner of your property. These two wildflowers (not necessarily weeds) are prime food sources for pollinators during the late spring and early summer. Stagger mowing so that some of the flowers are in bloom at all times. Take steps to protect the pollinator habitat that exists on your property, especially if this area is out of the way. This could be a bare patch of soil, a dead tree, a rock or brush pile where native pollinators build nests. This is the perfect time to cut down on the amount of grass you have and build a pollinator garden. 2. Design a pollinator garden! First of all, it helps to have sun. The vast majority of pollinator plants are sun-loving. But don’t despair if you have a shady yard; there are shade plants that attract pollinators. A source of water should be available. An old bird bath filled with pebbles and water makes an ideal source of water. A mud bath will attract butterflies as well as bees. Make sure there is a safe distance from any area where you use chemicals. Better yet, avoid chemicals altogether. Although budget limitations might demand that you start small, allow room for expansion. In the world of pollinators, bigger is better. 3. Go native! Avoid highly hybridized plants that are bred to be seedless and thus produce very little pollen and scent. It’s been estimated that native plants are four times more attractive to pollinators than hybrids. Emphasize diversity, not only in variety but also in size, especially plant height. Your goal should be a minimum of 10 different plants; more is better. When you plant, do so in clumps at least 3 feet in diameter. Focus on bright colors. For bees, it’s white, yellow, blue, violet, and purple. Attract hummingbirds with red and orange colors. If you include all these colors, you will attract butterflies also. The shape of the flower is important. Do not include “double” flowers as the pollinators cannot reach the nectar. Single flowers are best. Flowers that provide a natural platform give pollinators a place to land. Flowers that resemble a bull’s-eye provide a nectar guide. This is a region near the center of each petal not seen by humans but visible to the pollinator. Some flowers should have a tubular shape to attract hummingbirds. It is very important to provide nectar and pollen all season-long. Include flowers that bloom continually or stagger bloom times to cover the entire growing season. An excellent source of information regarding plants for bees can be found at the “Bee Squad” at the University of Minnesota. 4. Provide nesting sites! The fourth suggestion is to provide nesting space that provides morning and mid-day sun. Ideally, this should be within three hundred feet of the food sources. Keep in mind that approximately 70% of all native bees are ground-nesters. So, an area of bare soil is mandatory. These bees seldom nest in rich, compact soils so you might have to work some sandy or loamy matter into the soil. The tunnel-nesting bees, approximately 30% of our native species, need old tree stumps, logs, or piles of twigs and branches. Rock piles can also provide nesting areas. Allow this area to remain untouched, especially during the fall and winter months to allow the eggs and larvae to develop. There are man-made nesting solutions. You can find plans on the internet for wooden nesting boxes, stem bundles, butterfly boxes, etc. There are even plans for bumblebee nests. Consider a honeybee hive and learn about their fascinating community lifestyle. 5. Go organic! Finally, we can safeguard beneficial pollinators by going natural or organic. Avoid the use of chemicals, including fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, insecticides or fungicides. Your pollinator garden is a good place to let the garden go wild. If you must use chemicals, please do so in small, limited quantities and at times when the pollinators are resting, as in the late evening. Remember, while you are killing one pest or weed, you are likely killing beneficial pollinators as well. Following these suggestions will not only add beauty to your yard but will help restore the pollinators we need. Our future depends on these pollinators; without them our food source will dwindle Photo credits: Cheryl Forrest (1, 2)

< Back Master Gardeners Are in School – Gardens Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener With School Garden Leaders: Deb Oldenburg, Kate Minor, Mary Barnidge and Patricia McCabe A primary purpose of the volunteer Master Gardener program is to educate the community about environmentally sound gardening practices. There is no better audience hear the lessons of why and how to grow flowers and vegetables than children. The Dakota County Master Gardeners put this concept into practice by participating in four “school gardens.” Read this article explaining where, why and how Master Gardeners are in school – gardens. Look for them in your community! A primary purpose of the volunteer Master Gardener program is to educate the community about environmentally sound gardening practices. There is no better audience to teach the lessons of why and how to grow flowers and vegetables than children. The Dakota County Master Gardeners put this concept into practice by participating in four “school gardens.” In partnership with the schools, Master Gardeners teach children at Community of Saints School, Gideon Pond Elementary School, Pine Bend School Garden and Garlough Environmental Magnet School. While each school garden program and process are somewhat different, in general, the mission of these gardens is to provide school-aged children with engaging education about growing produce. Here are their stories. Community of Saints School Garden, West St. Paul This small school garden is a powerhouse producer for a school in an under-served community. Master Gardeners partner with the school kids in the spring to plant over 25 types of crops including vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers. Summer program kids from pre-K through 5th grade are provided fun garden education and activities on a variety of [topics including water, weather, pollinators and mini beasts. They learn how to be gardeners and how much work it takes to water, weed and harvest the garden. By the end of the season, we have typically harvested 300+ lbs. of produce which is consumed by students, families and staff. We are currently looking for community partners to help with future projects and maintenance to continue our mission. Garlough Environmental Magnet School Garden, West St. Paul This garden is part of the school's magnet curriculum. It supports projects for different grades. For example, the third grade makes salsa with some of the produce; kinderdergartner/first graders plant and harvest potatoes to make fries. They also grow a Native American “three sisters” garden. Master Gardeners helped to plan and supervise the planting of the garden at the school’s Environmental Explorers’ Fair in May. Students and their families helped to plant the garden along with Master Gardener volunteers. Teachers, staff, parents and students are thrilled with the garden project! Pine Bend School Garden, Inver Grove Heights The Pine Bend School Garden was established in 2018 with a Garden-in-a-Box grant from the Minnesota State Horticultural Society along with a donation from the school's PTSA. The mission of the garden is to create a beautiful, thriving school garden that provides students, teachers, and parents with the opportunity to connect with the natural world, grow and eat fresh produce, and expose them to a hands-on environmental education. There is an after-school garden club available to students in grades 3-5 two days a week in the spring and fall. They receive a short lesson about plants and best gardening practices created and delivered by Master Gardeners. Then they work in the garden planting, maintaining, and harvesting. Parents and students sign up to take care of the garden throughout the summer. The garden is visible and open to all students and the public. The pollinator garden is next to the main entrance and many parents (and neighbors) have commented on how beautiful it is. It is also teeming with bees, butterflies, and birds. The vegetable/fruit garden is in the school courtyard next to the playground. All students walk by the garden to witness the growth and changes. Sometimes signs are created and installed to educate students. Garden club members help lead an all-school assembly in the spring on Earth Day. Produce has been shared with the school in the cafeteria. The garden started small and has grown over the years with the help of in-kinds donations and grants from several community businesses and nonprofits. Gideon Pond Elementary School, Burnsville The Dakota County Master Gardeners have had a long partnership with the Gideon Pond Elementary School in Burnsville. They helped build a garden on school property to provide hands-on education for PreK through 5th grade students about gardening and where their food comes from. Our Master Gardener team teaches the students how to start seeds in the spring, and then how to transfer those seedlings to the garden in early summer. Our garden includes several different types of vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers. Summer school sessions include a 6-week curriculum (based on the U of MN Children’s Garden in Residence Program) with in-garden instruction on what plants need to thrive, how to deal with the Garden Villains (picking bugs, pulling weeds and deterring rodents/mammals), importance of pollinators and other “garden helper bugs”, purpose of fences, mulch and trellises, sensory evaluation of herbs, plant identification, and garden maintenance and harvesting. This summer we added a class with Early Childhood Family Education (ECFE). Participants include children birth through 5-year olds and their parents. The school is a joy to work with and the students are so excited to learn and participate in the entire gardening experience. It is not uncommon to be greeted by the students with a “Hi Master! Hi Master!” It is a rewarding experience for all involved. Quote from the school liaisons: “Thank you so much! This has been such a fantastic and memorable experience for our (students). We appreciate all that you did to make it fun and educational- not always an easy task.” And thank you to the schools, children and parents for making these gardens a “fantastic and memorable experience” for our Master Gardeners. Photo credits: Deb Oldenburg (1,2), Kate Minor (3,4), Patricia McCabe (5,6), Mary Barnidge (7,8)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 2 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the second in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. In this installment, Brenda talks about how plan for and choose plants for her native garden. (This is the second in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) This month, I’ll take you through the process of selecting the garden location, preparation, plant selection and the planting plan for my 2022 pollinator garden. Garden Location and Site Preparation I decided to apply for the Lawns to Legumes program with Scott County. By doing so, Scott County provided some guidance in addition to the possibility of receiving some grant money. A Resource Conservation Technician visited my property to help evaluate the garden location. When I showed her my first choice, her immediate concern was the existing dense grass coverage. It would be a lot of work to clear, especially if I wanted to plant yet that year. We then looked at an alternate location. The second site had some volunteer trees and shrubs that I would need to remove, medium weed coverage to be cleared, was closer to a water source and had some natural ‘messy’ areas of leaves/twigs that pollinators could use for nesting. Option two was definitely a smarter choice. Over the next month, I removed about 10 volunteer trees and shrubs, the largest under six feet high and four feet around, and cleared the weeds. Existing woodchips were left in place. Plant Selection It’s so fun buying plants! I started by ordering/using online catalogs from Minnesota Native Landscapes (MNL Corp) and Prairie Moon Nursery as both companies sell Minnesota native plants. Google was also helpful when looking for images of plants that were not pictured in the catalogs. My pollinator garden is 175 square feet with the following conditions: · Part shade/part sun - about ½ of the garden getting 5 hours of morning sun · Full sun plants - 1/3 of the garden getting 8+ hours of sun · Mostly shade plants - 1/5 of the garden getting only 4 hours of morning sun · Regardless of the sun level, the soil is medium for holding water With the variability in garden conditions, I had options! Smaller plants and patience were going to fit my budget far better than larger plants and immediate gratification. The recommended spacing in the Lawns to Legumes program was one plant every 12 – 16” when using 2” plugs. That’s 130 - 175 plugs! I admit, I was overwhelmed with all the options available. I remembered that Scott County Soil and Water Conservation District was selling native plant kits designed by growing conditions. I took the easy way out and ordered Woodland Edge, Pollinator Sun, Pollinator Partial Sun and Sunny Garden Kits to fill my garden. Creating a Planting Plan Using the list of plants in each of the garden kits ordered I started gathering data on each plant. Data used for each plant to help create the planting plan were: · Plant name · Quantity of plants by plant name · Bloom color · Bloom time · Mature height · Mature width · Light Conditions After assigning a number to each plant name, I drew the garden boundaries on graph paper, marked where the light conditions change and started placing plant codes on the garden plan. Now I wait impatiently for my plants to arrive. Come on back in May and follow my story. Photo credits: Brenda Scheer (1, 2, 3)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 1 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the first in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. (This is the first in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) Pollinator gardens are popping up everywhere but what are they? Pollinator gardens are designed to support and maintain pollinators by supplying food, both pollen and nectar for pollinators. Ok, so what is a pollinator? Common pollinators include: insects and animals such as bees, wasps, moths, butterflies, birds, flies and small mammals, including bats. Pollinators help carry pollen from the male part of a flower (stamen) to the female part of the same or different flower (stigma). This movement of pollen results in flower fertilization and the production of fruit, vegetables or seeds. Why are pollinators so important? One in three bites of food we eat exist because of pollinators 75% of all flowering plants on earth are pollinated by insects and animals Pollinator plants help to clean our air supply, provide oxygen, prevent soil erosion and support wildlife G iven the importance of pollinators and the challenges they are facing I decided I needed to do what I could to help them. But where to start? I signed up for a webinar hosted by Scott County for their “Lawns to Legumes” program. One of the topics was pocket pollinator gardens . After this webinar, I’m definitely creating a pollinator garden! And I was ready to get started. Something I recommend is starting your plan earlier rather than later. I started planning in April and some of the native plants I wanted to order were already out of stock! The project manager in me needed a plan. Here are some major steps to creating a new pollinator garden: Determine the physical location and conditions . Full sun is the obvious choice, however, pollinator gardens can also grow in part sun/shade. Also important is how wet or dry the area is. A rain garden can be a pollinator garden for wet areas. Prepare the site . Clear the area of existing plant competition and plan how to water young plants. Choose native plants . Native plants and pollinators go hand in hand. Natives flourish without added pesticides or fertilizers which means less maintenance since they are already well adapted to local conditions. Use nectar - and pollen-rich flowers with a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Different flowers shapes and colors attract different types of pollinators. To get the most pollinator food per plant, avoid modern hybrids as many of them produce significantly less pollen and nectar to have larger and different colored blossoms. Have a minimum of three plants in bloom early spring through late fall . This ensures food availability for all pollinators as the emerge for the season. Create a planting plan . Place plants based on their mature height, width, bloom time and color of blossoms. Plant in drifts . Groups of three or more flowering plants are easier for pollinators to find than single plants. Avoid landscape fabric and mulch . Placing plants of varying heights close to one another will create a “mat” of plants to block the weeds even better than mulch. Next month I will say more about planning my pollinator garden. Sources: https://www.nps.gov/subjects/pollinators/what-is-a-pollinator.htm https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/pollinator_gardens_can_be_effective_educational_tools https://beelab.umn.edu/help-bees/actions-help-bees/plant-bee-flowers/pollinator-garden https://extension.psu.edu/planting-pollinator-friendly-gardens https://bwsr.state.mn.us/pollinator-toolbox Photo Credit: flickr.com (4) & Brenda Scheer (1,2,3)

< Back The Enchanting World of Fairy Gardening Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a way to engage the child in your life with the outdoors?! Look no further… read here to learn about the fun and enchanting art of fairy gardening- a creative way of gardening with endless possibilities for the young and young at heart! Capture your child’s imagination as they create a small garden meant to attract the tiny magical beings, called garden fairies. Often found at the edge of the tended garden, garden lore says these guardians of nature are masters of disguise and appear in gardens as small animals, little creatures, or brightly colored orbs of light. Why Have Fun with Fairy Gardening? Whether you believe in garden fairies or just want to engage your child in imaginative play, the small-scale method of fairy gardening offers many benefits to the gardener, including connecting the child with nature while providing them with an immediate creative outlet. Also, fairy gardening can offer a way to teach the elements of landscape design, spacing, and proper irrigation to children. Another benefit of this type of gardening is that it enables a less physically constraining form of gardening for any age. How to Make an Enchanting Fairy Garden The most important tool of fairy gardening is your imagination ! Take some time and develop your plan or the story you want to tell (and attract fairies!) by deciding on the following gardening elements: 1. Theme: It can be anything you want, especially something to reflect a child’s current interests (e.g., princesses, farm animals, favorite movie characters). 2. Location: Determine where to locate your garden - in a container inside your home or outside, or in a small area of your garden. Add good potting soil for your plants and also, to set hardscape figures and structures. Good drainage, like providing holes in your container and the right soil mixture, ensures a long-lasting garden. 3. Plant selection: Choose plants that will grow to the right scale, or size, for a small garden. As you search for the right plants, consider contrasting or complementary colors and shapes of plants that best fit your theme. Here are some resources to help you choose the right plants: https://www.usbg.gov/fairy-gardens https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/miniature-gardens-a-story-to-tell/ 4. Accessorize: Start by “shopping” around your house and garden to find items that match your plan and can shape the story of your fairy garden. Suggestions: Acorns, pine cones, seeds, stones, shells, small branches, leaves, bottle caps, pipe cleaners, straws, discarded toys or parts of toys, and unused costume jewelry or fish tank stones. Craft stores have endless possibilities, too. To pursue an even more magical journey when creating your fairy garden, include the garden attributes that fairies prefer. Fairies enjoy a place to hide, like under a big leaf or behind a smaller rock. Look for small, colorful, shiny, fragrant, or soft items that will attract your neighborhood fairies. Use small ornaments or sparkly treasures. Incorporate fragrant plants (like lavender), choose plants with soft leaves, like lamb ears, or find pods (like milkweed), for a fairy to sleep on. Now you are ready to create your fairy garden! Once completed, feel free to add or change the garden as your child wants, to fully express their imagination (or even try to attract a fairy to live in their garden). As time passes, encourage your child to visit their fairy garden and leave little gifts of nature or special trinkets for the fairies. Here are some examples of fairy gardens found in Dakota County, Minnesota: To further enhance your fairy gardening experience, read: How To Catch a Garden Fairy, by Alice Walstead, a delightful read-aloud for younger elementary-aged children, which allows your child’s imagination to grow and see how making a fairy garden can entice a fairy into your garden! Borrow from the Dakota County Library: ISBN: 9781728263205 Or Buy: https://www.amazon.com/How-Catch-Garden-Fairy-Springtime/dp/1728263204 Reference: (University of Wisconsin-Madison, Extension, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/blossom-end-rot/ ) Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1,3,4,5), Marie Smith (2,6)

< Back Identifying Bees and Wasps and their Nests BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener There it is. The buzzing noise that strikes fear into the hearts of many a gardener. It might be nothing more than a hummingbird zipping by. Or maybe, just maybe, It’s a stinging insect. It’s a bee, a wasp a hornet! Duck and run!! Truly, most of the time if you leave these creatures alone, they will leave you alone. After all, they are only protecting their territory. They are wonderful pollinators, and you do love how well your garden is flourishing. Hmmm, let’s take a closer look at them & their homes. There it is. The buzzing noise that strikes fear into the hearts of many a gardener. It might be nothing more than a hummingbird zipping by. Or maybe, just maybe It’s a stinging insect. It’s a bee, a wasp a hornet! Duck and run!! Truly, most of the time if you leave these creatures alone, they will leave you alone. After all, they are only protecting their territory. They are wonderful pollinators, and you do love how well your garden is flourishing. Hmmm, let’s take a closer look at them and their homes. Read on to begin our busy journey. This article is a very basic overview of the most commonly encountered wasp and bee nests in MN. You are encouraged to peruse the references provided. Indeed, count them as a launching pad into the amazing world of these insects, without which most of our gardens and agriculture fields would yield vacant lots and desolate landscapes. Wasps and their nests : Wasps will generally not bother people when their nests are not near human activity but should be eliminated when they are located close to people to minimize the risk of stings. Yellowjackets and paper wasps are two types of wasps commonly found in Minnesota. Yellowjackets are 3/8” to 5/8” long and are bright yellow with black lines or other shaped markings on their abdomens. Their bodies are basically hairless and are hard and shiny. They can be mistaken for honey bees. Yellowjackets can be aggressive during late summer and fall around human food and drink. Yellowjackets make their nests from a papery pulp made of chewed-up wood fibers mixed with saliva. Their nests may be found in many places: below ground in open cavities, hollow logs, and in voids in attics and walls. Some yellowjackets build nests in trees and under eaves of buildings. Hundreds to thousands of yellow jackets may be found inside these nests. Paper wasps are ½ to 1 inch long and are usually brown with yellowish markings. Paper wasp nests are small and can be found under any horizontal surface. In contrast with yellowjackets, not more than 100 wasps can be found in these nests. Neither yellowjackets nor paper wasps use their nests for more than one season. Bees and their nests. Honey bees and bumble bees are two types of bees commonly found in Minnesota. Bee nests are not usually a problem for humans and should be preserved when possible. There are many different bumble bee species in Minnesota. Generally, bumble bees have the following characteristics: their size is less than one-half inch to one inch; they are fuzzy and round; and they are black and yellow. Bumble bee nests are often found in underground cavities, under objects on the ground or higher up in trees or wall cavities. Their nests are made of wax. Honey bees are about one-half inch long; are golden brown with thin black stripes on their abdomens and are fuzzy. Part of each hind leg is flat for collecting pollen. Honey bee nests are the familiar vertical honeycombs made of wax. Their colonies are mostly found in manufactured hives although they occasionally nest in cavities of trees, buildings or similar structures. Bees and wasps are complex and fascinating creatures that are vital to human existence. Although most of the time they will not bother humans, they can be aggressive if threatened. To feel more comfortable with these creatures, you would do well to learn all you can about them. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/wasps-and-bees https://www.pollinatorsnativeplants.com/plant-lists--posters.html https://beelab.umn.edu/bumble-bees Photo credits: Photo 1, 5: en.wikipedia.org Photo 2: 3,4: University of Minnesota Extension Photo 6: Elaine Evans, University of Minnesota- Extension Photo 7: Dalantech.deviantart.com (all creative commons) Photo 8: Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Extension

< Back American Smoketree - An American Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener This month, MG Jim Lakin continues his series on smaller understory native trees with an article on the American Smoketree. This beautiful specimen can be pruned to be a small tree or large bush. It features stunning “smoke-like” clusters of flowers from which its name is derived. Read Jim’s article to learn more about this stunning specimen tree for your yard. We’ve been talking about smaller understory native trees over the winter, and the American Smoketree ( Cotinus obovatus) is a stunning conclusion to our little survey. This gorgeous small tree is sometimes called Chittamwood but by any name, it is native to the prairie covered limestone hillsides of southeastern Texas, extending up into the Ozarks, as well as the Smoky Mountains of eastern Tennessee and down into Alabama. It is a member of the Anacardaceae family, making it a cousin to the cashews and sumacs. In spite of its Southern roots, it is fully cold hardy through USDA zone 4. So, it should be a good bet for central and southern Minnesota as well as the Red River Valley. Sheltered areas up the near North Shore would also be suitable. You should look for well-drained soil and full sun (6 to 8 hours of direct light) when selecting a spot. It will tolerate partial sun (4 to 6 hours) but may grumble a bit. It will grow pretty easily and quickly from seed and transplants easily as it has a shallow, fibrous root system. That makes growing Smoketree from seed a good winter project if you are aiming for a grove of them! Smoketree showing its spring “smoke” Smoketree really is a landscaping asset if you have a hot, west-facing area on your lot. It grows well on exposed limestone and gravelly sites. So, if you have one of these difficult areas, by all means give Smoketree a go. Water well the first year or two and it will be happy thereafter. It seems to be remarkably free of disease or pest problems and once established requires little care. It usually attains a height of 20 to 30 feet with a width of 10 to 20 feet when mature. This beauty produces silky clusters of flowers in the spring that develop into feathery seeds. The seeds look like small clouds of smoke hovering over the leaves in the late spring and summer, giving Cotinus obovatus its common name. These leaves are rounded (obovate), 2 to 5 inches and of a greenish blue, almost steely color. In fall they turn a brilliant yellow to orange to fiery red. It’s quite a show. The bark is grayish brown and will break into scaly plates as the tree ages. That in itself is a point of interest after leaf fall. Smoketree in the fall There are a couple of common cultivars in the trade although they may be difficult to locate. The first is Cotton Candy™ American Smoketree Cotinus obovatus “NorthStar”. As the name implies it is hardy to zone 3. The other is Grace Smoketree ( Cotinus ‘Grace’). This is a hybrid of Cotinus obovatus and Cotinus coggygria . The latter is a Eurasian species which introduces some pest problems. You may encounter leaf spot, rust and verticillium wilt. Die back in severe winters can be a problem. It boasts large pink flowers in the spring and can be pruned either as a small tree or large shrub of some 15 to 20 feet. So, if you want to try one of these fancy hybrids, you may sacrifice hardiness for showiness. I think though, that sticking with the true native Cotinus obovatus will provide ample rewards over many disease-free years. Photo Credit: University of North Carolina (1), North Carolina State University (2)