< Back Spotted Horsemint (Monarda punctata): A Beauty with Many Names Jim Lakin, MD Master Gardener Are you looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden? Consider Spotted Horsemint. This native is valuable to pollinators as it attracts butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. It will look great in your garden as a border or mass planting. It seems like the prettier and more agreeable the plant the more names it collects. This is certainly true of Monarda punctata. She’s called Dotted or Spotted Horsemint, Dotted or Spotted Bee Balm or sometimes just Bee Balm to be confused with true Bee Balm ( Monarda fistulosa) that we talked about last month. I point this out not just to prove that Linnaeus was right to assign unpronounceable Latin names to everything that grows. To make certain you’re getting the right plant, be sure to select Monarda punctata when you are looking for spotted horsemint in your local nursery or seed catalogue. When you do get the real thing, you’ll be acquiring a hardy perennial herbaceous that is native to Eastern and Central North America all the way up to Zone 3a. This should tell you it’s a pretty tough customer in addition to being a showy addition to your summer garden. From July through September, it produces yellowish to purple-spotted 3-to-6-inch flowers in whorls on a densely packed elongated spike. Below the flowers, large, purplish leaf-like bracts set off the arrangement. Being a member of the mint family Lamiaceae, spotted horsemint puts out runners to form fairly large clumps if left to its own devices. It is not considered to be too aggressive, however. Plants tend to grow to about 1 to 2 feet, occasionally taller. You should space them out by 12 to 24 inches when planting. It is important to allow for air circulation among the plants as they are susceptible to powdery mildew and rust. However, this usually occurs late in the season after flowering. If it is a cosmetic problem, prune the affected stems. Spotted horsemint likes full sun but will put up with part shade (direct sunlight for 2-6 hours per day). It does best in loam, silt or sandy soil which can be an issue here in our clay-ridden Minnesota soil, although I’ve not found that to be too great a problem with Monarda . As you would expect, it is found in the wild in prairies, sandy areas, rocky woodlands and coastal plains. It will even self-seed in almost pure sand. The prairie strains at least are fairly drought resistant. Spotted horsemint is of substantial value to the native wildlife attracting a plethora of butterflies, moths and hummingbirds. It is a great source of nutrients to a number of native specialist bees. Happily, it is not a valuable food source for deer or rabbits who tend to leave it alone unless things are getting desperate. So, if you are looking for a good low-maintenance plant for a prairie, pollinator, native or butterfly garden consider spotted horsemint. As a border or a mass planting, it does great! Photo credits: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Plantjourneys.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest by Suzanne Simard A family's dog fall into an outhouse on a camping opened up a new world to a young girl - fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. The young girl grew up to become a forest ecologist and educator. Suzanne Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener “This is not a book about how we can save the trees. This is a book about how trees might save us.” A family's dog falls into the outhouse on a camping trip in a Canadian forest. Uncles, aunts, grandparents, and parents all begin to dig out the poor creature, clearing away leaves from the forest floor, ripping up several feet of tree roots, and overturning several feet of earth. What a young girl sees, though, is not just the tree roots or the dirt itself, but a whole world under the ground: fungi, mineral-colored soil, humus, insects, worms, and more. That young girl grew up to become the forest ecologist and educator Suzanne Simard, a woman whose academic research would lead her back to the world beneath our feet. She began studying the fungal networks of mycelia and the ways that trees communicate with one another through root systems, and discovered that the oldest and most established trees—what she calls mother trees—direct the sharing of resources amongst all the flora of the forest. Simard’s look into the communicative world beneath our feet highlights nature’s resilience and its enormous capacity to heal. Her work appeals to gardeners, naturalists, and scientists alike. For more, her 2016 TED Talk educates on mycelia and mother tree communication, culminating in her advice for all to get out into local forests, to save old growth forests, for loggers to save the mother trees when logging occurs, and for logging companies to regenerate our forests wisely after logging. Simard’s book Finding the Mother Tree goes further still. This is not a dry or stuffy read, but an adventure story. Simard shares her fascinating field research in clear prose, telling stories about her sometimes-eccentric Canadian family of loggers and campers. Readers end with a deeper knowledge of how the natural world works and deeper appreciation for our human responsibility in protecting it. SOURCES : https://mothertreeproject.org https://suzannesimard.com Simard, Suzanne. Finding The Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest . New York, NY: Knopf Publishing, 2021. “How Trees Talk To Each Other,” TED. 2016 https://www.ted.com/talks/suzanne_simard_how_trees_talk_to_each_other ? language=en Photo credit: book jacket

< Back Hang on to Summer – Salads (and More) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener As fall harvest season arrives, the challenge is to create or try new recipes to fully appreciate the array of tastes available to us. As always, Master Gardener Joy Johnson is ready with recipes, this time, salads that help us to hang on to summer. And just to make sure that you use the abundant apple crop available to us now, she provides a scrumptious apple-centered dessert bar. Let your mouth water while reading these delicious recipes. Happy days are here again, the skies above are clear again, let us sing a song of cheer again, happy days are here again! As fall harvest season approaches, I think of those old song lyrics because harvest time comes around every year and it’s always fun, exciting, involves lots of work, and often puts our creativity to the test when the broccoli, kale, cabbage and apples challenge us with, “how are you going to make use of us in a new way this year?” Yes, my veggies talk to me. At times they can be a bit snarky. Since September tends to be quite hot and dry, I am not thinking of fall soups or hot casseroles pulled steaming from the oven, fogging your glasses, and making your mascara run. I’m still in salad mode. My motto is, “if you can hear crickets, it’s still summer!” Here are two delicious salad recipes that use apples, peppers, cabbage, snow peas, broccoli, and green onions to assist you with answering the challenge to make tasty, creative dishes from your abundant garden produce. If the rabbits ate your snow peas (like they did to mine, right through the fence!), you are still the salad queen even if you purchase ingredients at a farmer’s market or grocery store. Chicken, Apple and Cabbage Salad Ingredients: Applesauce-Soy Vinaigrette (recipe below) 3 large apples, cut into bite sized pieces 6 cups thinly sliced green cabbage (can also use Napa) 1 cup very thinly sliced red cabbage 1 yellow bell pepper, thinly sliced 2 cups snow peas, trimmed and cut in half if they are big 4 cups shredded or cubed cooked chicken (I use a rotisserie chicken from the grocery store) Applesauce-Soy Vinaigrette: Whisk together 1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce (which of course you’ve already made from your early apples), 3 TBSP soy sauce, 3 TBSP apple cider vinegar, 2 TBSP light olive oil, 2 TBSP dark sesame oil and 1 Tsp grated fresh ginger in a small bowl. Makes about 1 cup. 1) Prepare Apple-Soy Vinaigrette and place about 4 TBSP in a medium bowl. Core and cut up apples into bite sized pieces and toss in vinaigrette to coat (this will help prevent the apples from browning). 2) Combine green cabbage, red cabbage, bell pepper and snow peas in a large serving bowl or platter. Add remaining vinaigrette, tossing to coat. Add apples and chicken and gently toss. Broccoli-Apple Salad Ingredients: 6 cups broccoli florets 6 TBSP Mayonnaise 6 TBSP plain yogurt (you can also use sour cream or a mix of the two) 2 TBSP sugar 2 TBSP hot sauce ½ tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper 6 medium apples 3 green onions 1 medium hot banana pepper cut into tiny cubes (can use any hot pepper or leave this out if you’re not into heat) 2/3 cup dried cranberries 2/3 cup toasted sunflower seeds 1) Blanch broccoli in boiling water for 1-2 minutes until bright green. Drain and rinse with cool water. Set aside. 2) Combine mayonnaise, yogurt, sugar, hot sauce, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. 3) Core and chop apples; add to mayonnaise mixture. 4) Stir in broccoli, green onions, cranberries, and sunflower seeds; toss to coat and serve or refrigerate until serving time. Pecan Apple Bars These nutty apple bars are a favorite with everyone I’ve served them to. At the last party, I’d cut the bars into large pieces knowing that these are so good, everyone would want a large piece. The hostess cut them into smaller pieces thinking there wouldn’t be enough to go around. I was fine with that; it was her buffet after all. However, I did notice that almost everyone went back for another bar or two! Ingredients: 4 apples – I used Pizzaz and Honeycrisp ½ cup sugar, divided 1 TBSP Cornstarch 1 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp lemon juice 2 cups flour 1/3 cups finely chopped pecans (you can also use walnuts or a combination) 1/3 cup firmly packed light brown sugar 1 cup butter, melted 1) Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly butter an 8- or 9-inch baking pan. 2) Peel, core and chop apples into small pieces, place in a large bowl. Stir in ¼ cup sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, and lemon juice. Set aside. 3) Combine remining ¼ cup sugar, flour, pecans, brown sugar, and butter in a large bowl Stir until well blended. Transfer 2/3 of this mixture to the prepared baking dish and press into the bottom evenly. 4) Bake 15 minutes. 5) Remove baking dish from oven and spoon apple mixture and all the liquid evenly over the baked, hot crust. Sprinkle evenly with the remaining 1/3 of the crust mixture. 6) Bake 35 minutes or until golden brown. 7) Cool in pan on a wire rack. Cut into squares. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Alternatives to a Christmas Tree: A Greener Christmas Marjory Blare, Master Gardener How many times have you seen dead, dry Christmas trees next to the road? Sometimes they just stay there, sometimes the city picks them up. But there are greener alternatives. Read on for some creative ideas. Some 95 million Americans decorate their homes for Christmas, of those, almost 80 % opt for artificial trees. Most artificial trees are made in China of chemical-laden plastics. The Natural Resources Defense Council estimates that you would need to use an artificial tree for 20 years to offset its eco-impact. There is a growing trend towards renting a live tree. Right now, it is centered mostly on the west coast, but, if enough people express an interest in it, the idea may catch on here. The idea is that you rent a live tree grown in a pot. At the end of the season, you return the tree, and then it is grown on in a climate-controlled environment and rented out for the next season. A tree can be rented out for 7-10 years, whereupon it will be planted to grow and improve the environment. Although not all of these suggestions are totally “green,” here are some creative ways that Minnesotans can decorate for the holidays: HGTV has a list of 40 alternatives , including a chalkboard tree, a string tree and a flowerpot tree. Look at Homes and Gardens take on decorating ideas, including a keepsake tree and a tree made from books. Or, how about Real Homes ideas including a step ladder tree, a firewood tree and a painted peg board tree. Martha Stewart has a list of alternatives including a dowel tree and a twig tree. how to decorate and care for a Norfolk Island Pine. Please consider some of these alternatives if you are in the market for a new Christmas approach. Photo credits: freeimageslive.co.uk (1), Theodora Sanford, Hennepin County (2), Katherine Bjorndahl, Le Sueur County (3), Renee Miller West St. Paul (4)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 2 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the second in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. In this installment, Brenda talks about how plan for and choose plants for her native garden. (This is the second in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) This month, I’ll take you through the process of selecting the garden location, preparation, plant selection and the planting plan for my 2022 pollinator garden. Garden Location and Site Preparation I decided to apply for the Lawns to Legumes program with Scott County. By doing so, Scott County provided some guidance in addition to the possibility of receiving some grant money. A Resource Conservation Technician visited my property to help evaluate the garden location. When I showed her my first choice, her immediate concern was the existing dense grass coverage. It would be a lot of work to clear, especially if I wanted to plant yet that year. We then looked at an alternate location. The second site had some volunteer trees and shrubs that I would need to remove, medium weed coverage to be cleared, was closer to a water source and had some natural ‘messy’ areas of leaves/twigs that pollinators could use for nesting. Option two was definitely a smarter choice. Over the next month, I removed about 10 volunteer trees and shrubs, the largest under six feet high and four feet around, and cleared the weeds. Existing woodchips were left in place. Plant Selection It’s so fun buying plants! I started by ordering/using online catalogs from Minnesota Native Landscapes (MNL Corp) and Prairie Moon Nursery as both companies sell Minnesota native plants. Google was also helpful when looking for images of plants that were not pictured in the catalogs. My pollinator garden is 175 square feet with the following conditions: · Part shade/part sun - about ½ of the garden getting 5 hours of morning sun · Full sun plants - 1/3 of the garden getting 8+ hours of sun · Mostly shade plants - 1/5 of the garden getting only 4 hours of morning sun · Regardless of the sun level, the soil is medium for holding water With the variability in garden conditions, I had options! Smaller plants and patience were going to fit my budget far better than larger plants and immediate gratification. The recommended spacing in the Lawns to Legumes program was one plant every 12 – 16” when using 2” plugs. That’s 130 - 175 plugs! I admit, I was overwhelmed with all the options available. I remembered that Scott County Soil and Water Conservation District was selling native plant kits designed by growing conditions. I took the easy way out and ordered Woodland Edge, Pollinator Sun, Pollinator Partial Sun and Sunny Garden Kits to fill my garden. Creating a Planting Plan Using the list of plants in each of the garden kits ordered I started gathering data on each plant. Data used for each plant to help create the planting plan were: · Plant name · Quantity of plants by plant name · Bloom color · Bloom time · Mature height · Mature width · Light Conditions After assigning a number to each plant name, I drew the garden boundaries on graph paper, marked where the light conditions change and started placing plant codes on the garden plan. Now I wait impatiently for my plants to arrive. Come on back in May and follow my story. Photo credits: Brenda Scheer (1, 2, 3)

< Back MICRO FOOD Gardening Intrigued by the idea of growing your greens indoors this winter? Gail Maifeld reviews a book that explains how to practice Micro Food Gardening successfully in your kitchen. Jen McGuinness Reviewed by Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener A fascinating introduction to MICRO FOOD Gardening. This type of gardening is for the tiny space gardener, roof top gardener, or small lot garden which focuses on varieties bred for small spaces. MICRO FOOD Gardening: Plant plans and plants for growing fruits and veggies in tiny spaces includes the usual gardening care info about soil choices, watering, seeds, and the use of fertilizers. This form of gardening is all about plants that stay compact and are bred to be grown on the kitchen table, windowsill, or window box. Look for nursery grown plants that specify container gardening. There is a chapter on repurposing pots, planters and containers in unique ways. A strawberry pyramid of three cake pans, or reusing an aquarium are suggested. Each example includes a list of supplies and assembly steps. Many of the projects focus on specific themes such as a salsa garden or a bicycle basket lettuce garden Organized with highlighted lists of supplies and many pictures. An extensive resource list, a table of contents & index result in an easily used book. MICRO FOOD Gardening is an entertaining option for those who live in tiny spaces. Photo Credit: Book Cover

< Back Beyond Rosemary, Basil, and Thyme Stacy Reeves reviews Beyond Rosemary, Basil, and Thyme, a book that describes the many ways to enjoy a variety of herbs. The book talks about seventy herbs both common and uncommon. It includes history, growing tips and recipes to help you enjoy herbs that you can grow in your own garden. Stacy Reeves, Master Gardener Theresa Mieseler’s book, Beyond Rosemary, Basil, and Thyme, is aptly named. After many gardeners’ first plants of the season, their next thoughts often move to next season, next harvest, and how to go beyond. My personal beyond has always been something edible in my garden, but Mieseler highlights the many uses of herbs, such as for flavor, garnishes, spiritual and cultural rituals, medicines, and aromas. Though the author is Minnesotan she details herbs from all over the world and includes an outline of growth habits, favorite uses, and even offers some recipes. The pictures included in the book are beautiful and aid the author’s explanations of the varieties. Walking through a seed catalog can be delightful. However, Mieseler's inclusion of her farm, grandfather, and even the weather as characters made the book more interesting to read. She recounts the herbaceous varieties she’s loved over the years and why she would recommend them. Readers are sure to learn new things about both familiar and unfamiliar herbs. Photo Credit: Theresa Mieseler (1)

< Back Minnesota Arbor Day - April 28, 2023 Mary Gadek, Master Gardener “He who plants a tree, plants hope.” ~Lucy Larcom Each year, Arbor Day is celebrated around the world. Each state in the United States sets aside one day each year for its Arbor Day to think about why trees are important to the world and to celebrate them. Minnesota has chosen the last Friday in April for its Arbor Day. Click here to learn why there is an Arbor Day celebration and how to celebrate it with your family. Let’s celebrate our Minnesota trees on Arbor Day, April 28, 2023! Everywhere you go in Minnesota, you see many trees of different types, sizes and shapes. Why celebrate Arbor Day? Arbor Day highlights the power and importance of trees in the World. Trees help our climate . The bad emissions from things like some vehicles and machinery and land use changes have added too much carbon dioxide into our air. Trees can improve the air by pulling in carbon dioxide and then, in exchange, releasing oxygen back into our air. Trees benefit our communities . In addition to cleaning our air, trees filter water and slow storm flooding in our neighborhoods. The shade of a tree near a home or building can keep it cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter as well as provide a beautiful area for physical activity. Also, trees have been shown to calm stress when doing activities, like resting under a tree or strolling through a forest. Trees maintain the biodiversity of the environment . “Biodiversity”, or the collection of plants, animals and other creatures in an area, fosters balance among each other that is needed to live, providing food and shelter in an environment. A tree can give shelter on its branches or under its canopy as well as provide seeds and nuts for food to the wildlife around it. How to celebrate Arbor Day? Plant a tree . Arbor Day is celebrated by planting a tree or trees to continue the benefits of trees in our world. Starting as early as February through May, many cities in Dakota County have tree sales, of smaller, bare root trees for economical prices. Perfect for a yard with little to no trees! See links below for some Dakota County tree sales. Participate in one of the many educational activities . The Arbor Day Foundation’s website has many educational resources, including activity sheets and interactive learning pages, to further your child’s knowledge about trees. https://www.arborday.org/kids/ Read about a special tree . The Giving Tree by Shel Silverstein is a picture book for all ages with the main character of a tree giving love and acceptance all of its life. The Giving Tree by Shel Silverstein . Check it out at the Dakota County library. Or purchase on Amazon : So, help you child plant a tree or take part in one of the many educational activities related to trees. Or, on any old day, just take a walk among the trees and help you child appreciate all that trees do for us. Dakota County tree sales links: (this is not an exhaustive list; more sales will become available through May; check your local city or township website if it is not listed below): https://dakotaswcd.org/2023-tree-sale-2/ https://www.lakevillemn.gov/723/Annual-Arbor-Day-Tree-and-Shrub-Sale https://cityofeagan.com/treesale https://www.burnsvillemn.gov/1008/Tree-Sale https://treetrust.org/non-profit/trees-for-sale/mendota-heights/ Photo credits: Mary Gadek (1, 2), Matt Gadek (3), book cover (4)

< Back Getting the Jump on Jumping Worms Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Many of us associate worms in the soil as an indicator of “good garden soil.” Unfortunately, that is not necessarily true in Minnesota these days. “Jumping worms” have become more common in local gardens recently and that is not a good thing. Read this article to understand why. My Uncle Casey was a farmer. He’d pick up a clod of dirt. Earth worms would slowly wriggle out. He’s say, “Good soil.” It’s almost become axiomatic that the presence of earthworms, mostly of the family Lumbricidae, indicates a healthy soil. Indeed worms consume leaf litter and organic material, release nutrients and help in soil aeration, altering soil structure. But they are not native. They, along with so much else, came over to North America in the 1600’s with early European settlement. For millennia the soil of our continent got along quite nicely without them. In the late 19 th Century a new genus, Amynthas spp or “jumping worms” arrived from East Asia on imported plants or other agricultural materials. They have made their way from the Northeast into the Midwest, first appearing in Minnesota and Wisconsin over the last 10 to 20 years. Unlike their relatively benign cousins, they have caused quite a lot of damage to the soils they have colonized. Like other invasive species, they take over. They invade the first 4 to 8 inches of soil muscling out other worms. Jumping worms consume both living and dead plant material at accelerated rates and change the soil to give it a “coffee grounds-like” texture, which can severely stunt or kill plants. A jumping worm ( Amynthas spp) with characteristic cream-colored “collar” (clitellum). So how do you know if you have them? As their name implies, jumping worms are very active in comparison to other earthworms. They wriggle around vigorously. They also have a distinctive cream-colored band about a third of the way down their bodies. About the only other worm you might confuse them with is the night crawler. A really nifty app called iNaturalist can help in identification. A species of jumping worm (Amynthas agrestis) with a dead ladyslipper plant. Jumping worms change the soil and give it the granulated look of coffee grounds. What do you do if you have them? Don’t despair. Some plants will succumb but others seem to tolerate jumping worms. You definitely want to remove and destroy any jumping worms you come across. Pop them in a resealable plastic bag and put them in the trash. Don’t spread them around your property. Carting infested soil from place to place should be avoided. They are annuals, laying eggs in leaf detritus in the fall, so be careful what you do with raked leaves. Above all, spread the word. You can report jumping worm infestations to the Great Lakes Early Detection Network ( www.gledn.org ). This is an organization which tracks invasive species around the Great Lakes and provides information to municipalities and individuals. If in doubt, report. They will verify. There’s a GLEDN app for either Apple or Google on which you can do this. What can you do to reduce the chances of getting jumping worms in your garden? Be careful of any horticultural products you bring into the garden. Soils, mulch, compost, potted plants all are potential sources of the worms. If you are thinking about trying vermiculture, be very careful that you don’t buy misidentified worms. If you have a fisherman in the family make sure he disposes unused worms in a sealed bag in the trash, not in the lake or on the shore. Want to learn more? Use this link to the University of Minnesota Extension. At present there is no known means of eradicating jumping worms, so vigilance is essential! Photo credits: Josef Gorres, University of Vermont. (1, 2, 3)

< Back Your Answers to Rain Barrels - To Use or Not to Use You may have considered a rain barrel for your yard but wondered whether it was right for you. Rain barrels have environmental benefits but there are pros and cons to using them in your garden. This article provides some helpful information to help you decide whether to invest in a rain barrel for your garden. Linda Holt, Master Gardener You may have considered a rain barrel for your yard but wondered whether they were right for you. This article explains some of the pros and cons of using rain barrels to provide water to the plants in your garden. You will want to decide whether a rain barrel will fulfill your garden’s specific needs to the extent that will make it worth the expense and upkeep. A few of the Pro’s for using a rain barrel in your yard include: 1. The cost of water is going up and the ability to use municipal sources to water your landscape are becoming more limited. Harvesting rainwater may lower your water bill. 2. Rain barrels are a good way to “maximize environmental value” by reducing run-off into the streets and the pollutants that are picked up along the way that are feeding into our streams, rivers and lakes. 3. The rain water is a great alternative for the ornamental plants in your yard as well as indoor plants. 4. This water source can be utilized any day of the week. 5. Rainwater may contain minerals that are beneficial to plants; However, there are some cons to rain water usage: 1. The water is not safe for drinking nor should it ever touch the edible parts of any plants grown for consumption. The rainfall is collected from a roof / gutter system, the runoff of which may include various “harmful pathogens” resulting from bird fecal matter, rotting leaves, etc. 2. To collect enough water for your purposes you may need multiple rain barrels. 3. Some upkeep is necessary to keep your rain barrel in good shape. Most rain barrels hold around 50-55 gallons of water. In order to determine how much rainwater you can expect from your rain barrel, you must estimate the amount of run off from your particular roof. This requires a thoughtful determination of the square footage of the roof area multiplied by the rainfall in inches and a conversion factor that converts the inches of rainfall to gallons per sq foot. This calculation can be found at: https://extensionpublications.unl.edu/assets/html/g2220/build/g2220.htm Rain barrels can be purchased from various retailers or on-line and come in a variety of shapes and designs. They can also be self-built. There are many DIY rain barrel ideas that can be found on the internet if you prefer to build your own. As mentioned in the above online publication, rain barrels are best dark-colored or opaque as light colored barrels allow sunlight in encouraging algae growth. Rain barrels come complete with a hose guide, overflow tube and screen (to keep critters and debris out) and are relatively easy to install. You will want to position the rain barrel under a drain spout so that the run-off from the roof will flow into the rain barrel. The overflow tube prevents the barrel from overflowing and directs the excess water to a garden bed or base of a tree. You can attach a drain tube to the overflow tube to reach the area of the garden that you wish to receive the water. Cleaning a rain barrel should be done annually in the fall when they are removed and stored away for winter, however, you may need to do it more frequently if they grow algae and get smelly. You should drain the barrel and remove any remaining debris. Scrub the inside of the barrel with a long-handled brush using water and detergent then rinse thoroughly. Including a rain barrel in your landscape may be just the answer to your irrigation concerns. The University of MN extension department has a handy article for you to peruse when giving consideration to this subject. You will find additional information at: https://extension.umn.edu/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard/rain-barrels Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back Harvesting Vegetables Whether you’re an old hand or brand new to vegetable gardening, at times it can be difficult to know exactly when and how to harvest your vegetables. Learn more about the importance of timing when harvesting your vegetables. Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Most seed packets and seed catalogs contain information on how many days it will take for your vegetable seeds to grow to maturity. However, they are not always reliable when trying to calculate precise harvest dates. Factors that can influence harvest dates include soil quality, precipitation, temperature and ventilation. Also, days to maturity may differ from year to year. This year is a good example of how maturity dates may be different than normal. We had a hot early spring then cool temperatures. Now, we are in a drought situation which stresses the vegetables and requires daily watering. These weather variations can affect the maturity date of your vegetables. Home gardeners do have an advantage over commercially grown vegetables. Commercial vegetables are often picked prior to their peak quality. Home gardeners can harvest vegetables closer to their peak time since it’s best to allow vegetables to ripen on the plant. However, remember that bigger is not always better when harvesting. Leaving certain crops on the plant too long can render them inedible. A gardener needs to be aware of any subtle clues indicating when a vegetable is ripe for the picking. The best time to harvest vegetables is early in the morning. Vegetables regain moisture overnight which makes the vegetables crisper, juicier and sweeter. If you are unable to harvest in the morning, keep your produce out of direct sunlight and cool as soon as possible. Quality is highest at the time of harvest and decreases rapidly from then. Pick at peak maturity, handle vegetables properly and store under optimum conditions. Always be gentle when harvesting vegetables. If they are not easily removed you can use a knife, hand pruner or scissors which prevents tearing or breaking. Be careful not to step on stems or plant foliage. Frequent picking is essential for prolonging the harvest. Whatever vegetables you choose, have fun and happy harvesting! To find more information about harvesting specific vegetables, visit: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/harvesting-vegetables/ https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/vegetables Photo credits: Robert Hatlevig (1), Cory Tanner @2010 Clemson Extension (2, 3)

< Back Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life This month, we are excited to recommend “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life,” by Barbara Kingsolver, a must-read book for gardeners interested in learning more about the connections between food, sustainability, and community. Kingsolver takes readers on a journey through a year of eating only locally grown or produced food, providing practical advice, personal anecdotes, scientific facts, cultural history, and recipes to explore the complex web of issues surrounding food production and consumption. Her engaging writing style and thoughtful insights make this book both inspiring and informative. Reviewed By Kelly K. Vriezen, Master Gardener "Every little bit of action adds up to something big." ~ Barbara Kingsolver “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life” is a beautifully written and insightful book by Barbara Kingsolver that is a must-read for any gardener interested in sustainability and the environment. Part memoir, part journalistic investigation, this Winner of the James Beard Award for Writing and the Indies Choice Book Award for Adult Nonfiction is a personal account of Kingsolver's family's journey towards a more sustainable lifestyle by growing their own food and eating only locally sourced products. The book is divided into chapters that are organized according to the seasons, detailing the challenges and successes of growing and preserving their own food. Kingsolver's writing is both engaging and informative, weaving together anecdotes, scientific facts, and cultural history to create a rich tapestry of the issues surrounding food production and consumption. She shows how our current industrial food system is unsustainable and harmful to the environment, and how growing and eating locally can be a powerful act of resistance and renewal. Her emphasis on the importance of soil health and biodiversity is particularly poignant, and she offers practical advice on everything from food preparation to composting to seed-saving to raising chickens. Also included are recipes and seasonal menus that are sure to spark your interest. One quote from the book that will particularly grab the reader’s attention is: "Our vegetables and fruits, long-lost flavors, are gradually returning to our tables. These local foods also offer a new kind of economic stability to small farmers and communities." This quote captures the essence of what is most compelling about Kingsolver's book - the idea that by growing and eating locally, we can not only improve our health and the health of the environment, but also build stronger, more resilient communities. Overall, “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle” is a thought-provoking and inspiring book that is sure to resonate with gardeners and anyone interested in learning more about the connections between food, sustainability, the environment, and community. It will change the way you shop for food and the way you look at the food you eat. Kingsolver's engaging writing style and thoughtful insights make this a must-read book for anyone passionate about gardening and local food. Photo credit: Book Cover