< Back How to Care for Blueberry Bushes This Spring Do you love to eat blueberries? No blueberries are better than the ones you grow in your yard. If you are growing blueberry bushes in your yard or want to do so, read this article for some tips on what you can do this spring to help your blueberry bushes flourish. Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener I love to eat blueberries and also wanted to add some bushes to my yard for pollinators and privacy and beauty. So, adding a few blueberry bushes seemed to be a good option. We planted 5 blueberry bushes a couple of years ago and have moved them around the yard a couple of times, trying to find a location where they would thrive. In the process, I’ve learned several things that you can do for your blueberries in early spring before they’ve even budded that will help them thrive. Blueberries have very shallow roots, so remove all weeds and grasses that may have grown up around the bushes, then add a layer of mulch 3-4 inches thick. After that, look carefully at your bushes and prune out any dead or dying branches. Also prune out any conflicting growth; branches that are growing into the center or crossing over or rubbing against other branches. Another thing to do is to step back and look at the overall shape of your bush and prune so it has a balanced look on all sides. For smaller branches, use a bypass pruning shears or snips. For larger more mature bushes and branches, use a pruning saw. You should do this pruning while the bush is fully dormant, and no buds have formed. Blueberries need an acidic soil with a pH between 4.5 -5.5. There are a couple of ways to amend the soil around your blueberry bushes. You can use elemental sulfur pellets available at Walmart, Fleet Farm, Ace Hardware and on Amazon. Wear gloves when you apply. Wait to apply until the soil temperature is at least 55 degrees. Sprinkle 2 handfuls in a ring around the plant, on top of the mulch and then lightly rub it into the mulch. You can also use a fertilizer that has a 5-3-3 balance or get a fertilizer like Plant Tone or Holly Tone. These are usually promoted as evergreen and azalea food (those plants also like a more acidic soil). Only fertilize once this year. Then you should add a layer of compost 2-3 inches thick in a 2-foot diameter ring around your bushes. Make sure your compost smells like grass, not garbage, to ensure that it is fully composted. Next add 3 inches of a natural mulch, not dyed. For example, bark mulch, woodchips, cedar or hay, or pine straw. Mini pine bark nuggets are mildly acidic and can help acidify your soil. Make an 18–24-inch ring around your bushes, 2-3inches deep. The last step is to wet down the entire area. Keep in mind that doing all these things, like adding compost and mulch, won’t last all year. Check your bushes throughout the growing season watching for decomposition, bare soil, and/or weeds starting to creep in. Pull the weeds, reapply a 2–3-inch layer of mulch as needed. Then look forward to a delicious blueberry harvest. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Joy Johnson (2-6)

< Back Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Not every seed is created equal. Trying to get some of the native perennials to germinate seems to require an Act of Congress. And they’re gridlocked! Not so with the humble but glorious zinnia. In my book, zinnias are some of the most overlooked yet rewarding annuals a Minnesotan could hope for. Although originating in Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., varieties have been developed all over the world. Yet they all still retain their love of warmth and sunlight, a commodity sometimes in short supply up here. Fear not! Simply sew zinnia seeds after the last hard frost and bide your time. As things warm up the seedlings will take care of the rest, producing blooms from late spring, far into the fall. If you have a warm sunny spot inside, you might even consider starting some seeds four to six weeks before the last frost. Unlike some more persnickety plants, zinnias germinate readily. You can set them out in the garden when they get two to four inches tall and enjoy weeks of blooms before the seeds you sewed get in gear. There are many varieties of zinnias ranging in height from 6 inches to 4 feet. I like the older, smaller blooms. They are hardy, fast growing, and tough plants. As I said, they do need full sun and warmth, but ask little else. One fertilization a season usually suffices. They are quite disease resistant. Powdery mildew seems to be the only common malady. It doesn’t look very attractive, but the plants usually survive. To keep them happy and mildew free, select a well-drained location for planting. Zinnias don’t like their feet wet. Mixed zinnias in full summer bloom If you find a variety you really like, consider collecting seeds in the late fall. Just cut off the spent flowers, shake out the seeds onto a sheet of paper, slip them into an envelope and store in the fridge until early next spring to start indoors or sew in the garden a bit later. Either way you will have bold, bright colors to cheer you through the gardening season! Late fall zinnia seed heads ready for harvest Want to learn more about zinnias than you thought there was to learn? Try Eric Grissell’s new book, A History of Zinnias: Flower for the Ages , Perdue University Press, West Layette, IN, 2020. Photo credits: Jim Lakin (1, 2)

< Back Managing Salt Damage on Plants B.J. Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener Minnesota winters inevitably bring snow and ice on our driveways and sidewalks. Various deicer products are often used to manage these winter hazards. But many Minnesota plants are sensitive the chemicals that are in the deicers. This article will help you to know which plants are susceptible to salt damage and which plants can resist salt damage. Winters in Dakota County can be freezing cold, snowy, and windy. These conditions require sidewalk shoveling, driveway snow-blowing, manual ice scraping and street plowing up to and including applications of deicer products. Your d iligent clearing of snow and ice may minimize the amount of deicer spread across sidewalks, and driveways during the course of winter. Remember also, that as the ice and snow melts, the salts will run-off into the garden and impact garden plants roots. Many Minnesota plants are sensitive to road salt, which can cause dehydration, nutrient deficiencies, and eventual death due to both salt spray on foliage and salt accumulation in the soil. Evergreens are particularly vulnerable. The composition of deicer products varies depending upon requirements of the area. The primary difference is that "road salt" typically refers to raw, inexpensive rock salt for large-scale use, think streets and highways. While "sidewalk salt" (or "ice melt") often includes blends of different chemicals such as calcium chloride or magnesium chloride which are more effective in colder temperatures and can be less damaging to surfaces and plants. You can minimize the negative effects of deicer products on the plants in your garden by understanding which plants are better able to tolerate the chemicals. Choice of plant type and placement augments the plant’s innate ability to tolerate deicers salts. Here is information about plants that are and are not tolerant to deicers. Native Minnesota trees and shrubs that are sensitive to road salt include: Maples (Red maple, Silver maple, Sugar maple); Dogwoods (Grey dogwood, Red-osier dogwood, Red twig dogwood); Basswood (American basswood, Littleleaf linden); Pines (Eastern white pine, Red pine, Scots pine); and Firs (Balsam fir, Concolor fir). salt damaged evergreen Meanwhile, other Minnesota plants, including trees, shrubs, and perennials, are tolerant of road salt and are excellent choices for landscaping near roads, driveways, and sidewalks. Deciduous plants are generally more salt-tolerant than evergreens as they shed their leaves annually. These include trees such as: Oaks (Bur, Northern Red, and Swamp White); Hackberry; Honey Locust; Kentucky Coffee tree; River Birch; Serviceberry and Eastern red cedar. Along with shrubs : Sumacs (Staghorn & Smooth); Chokeberry; Winterberry; Lilacs; Viburnums ( Viburnum spp. ); Junipers ( Juniperus spp. ); Potentilla; and Rose ( Rosa rugosa ). Black Chokeberry Additionally, the following grasses, perennials and wildflowers are effective at handling both salt spray and soil accumulation and are excellent for boulevard gardens. Grasses : Little Bluestem; Big Bluestem; Switchgrass; Prairie Dropseed; Perennials and Wildflowers: Black-Eyed Susan; Purple Coneflower; Goldenrod; Asters; Butterfly Milkweed; Catmint; Sedums; Daylilies; and Yarrow. Common Milkweed For specific recommendations on seed mixes for different applications, the Minnesota Stormwater Manual provides detailed guidance. From quick facts about managing deicing products to in depth area management are available here: https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/effects-deicing-salts-landscapes Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), Missouri Botanical Garden (2)

< Back What is Compost? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer Have you seen signs around that say “Compost?” Maybe you’ve put bags of compost on your gardens already. Maybe you even have your own compost at home! What is compost? Read on with your curious child to find out what goes into this helpful mix and how we can help plants grow (and keep organic matter out of our landfills!) I think of compost as a really nutritious casserole or lasagna for plants. Did you know that plants need good nutrition, just like people? First, let’s talk about organic matter . Things that once grew as plants - grass clippings, fallen leaves, banana peels, even paper towels - can break down and become food for new plants when we add them back into the soil. Microbes are tiny living organisms that help break down this future compost. The best way for us to set this up is to layer “green” organic waste and “brown” organic waste (like we layer yummy ingredients between noodles in a lasagna!) So let’s start there: Examples of “green” organic matter: raw fruit and vegetable peels, egg shells, grass clippings, plant trimmings, tea bags, and coffee grounds Examples of “brown” organic matter: straw, twigs, shredded newspaper, paper towels, brown leaves, sawdust When the helpful bacteria, tiny microbes, worms and bugs start eating and mixing our green and brown layers, the layers start to break down and even make energy. The goal is for the pile to get warm enough to “cook” out the kinds of germs that get stinky or make us sick. It’s just like we cook some of our foods to make them safe and tasty for us to eat. People can help things along by turning over the mix - this helps it break down evenly and adds oxygen and moisture to encourage the process. If the weather gets really dry, spray down the pile with water now and again between rain showers. It can take some patience, but eventually you will have fresh compost ready to mix into your planting soil! Where does this happen? Sometimes community compost sites make BIG batches of compost after they collect organic waste from many places. This could be from compost bins near the trash and recycling cans like these - see the one that says “COMPOST?” Or, Dakota County (as well as other counties) has a program where residents can bring their food waste in special biodegradable bags to a public site like this one at the Holland Lake parking lot of Lebanon Hills Regional Park. See this website for more information on Dakota County’s Organics Drop Off program https://www.co.dakota.mn.us/Environment/Residential/Organics/Pages/organics-drop-off.aspx Some people make compost right at home! You can buy a compost bin made just for this purpose through many vendors online or through Dakota County https://recycleminnesota.org/compost-bins-rain-barrels/ . Or you can make your own! Here are some helpful websites with instructions for making a home compost bin (with an adult!): https://thecompostadores.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/photographic-steps-to-build-a-bin.pdf https://www.treehugger.com/diy-compost-bins-you-can-build-one-day-video-4858394 You can even take a class with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum for a compost bin building demonstration here: https://www.arboretum.umn.edu/getdirtyactivities.aspx Here’s a 3-part system of compost at the Arboretum’s Children’s Garden: The older organic materials get moved “next door” to make room for new green and brown layers in the first section. If you haven’t checked out the Green Play Yard and learning garden next to the Marion Andrus Learning Center there yet, I truly recommend it - it’s fantastic! So kids, let’s review - what’s compost? Organic matter made from plants that helps plants grow! It adds nutrients and texture to the soil so the plants can get oxygen and water through their roots. Compost that’s ready for this job should not have a stinky or rotten smell. How can kids help to make compost? Help collect food waste like peels, coffee grounds, tea bags, greens and egg shells that won’t get eaten into a container until it is full and ready to take to your home or community compost site. Toddlers and older can carry a closed pail or small bag of organics and participate in the cycle of their food. Gather black and white newspapers, brown cardboard and paper towels (shredded to help them break down faster), sticks, and leaves for the brown layer at home. Use a large garden fork or shovel to stir up your compost pile now and again, or use the handle on some bins to turn the pile around. It’s not an exact science, so put those growing muscles to work mixing things up! Keep an eye out for helpful signs at parks and businesses that show you where to put compostable items and keep them out of the landfill. For a great factsheet about home composting, see this link from the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency https://www.pca.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/w-hhw1-21.pdf Book Time! Read on at Dakota County Libraries for more kid-friendly information about COMPOSTING: Compost Stew: An A to Z Recipe for the Earth by Mary McKenna Siddals and Ashley Wolff, recommended for Ages 2-6 Garbage Helps our Garden Grow: A Compost Story by Linda Glaser, recommended for Ages 6 & up Photo Credit: Minnesota Pollution Control Agency Website (2), Sarah Heidtke (1,3,4,5,6) , Compost Stew: An A to Z Recipe for the Earth by Mary McKenna Siddals and Ashley Wolff (7) & Garbage Helps our Garden Grow: A Compost Story by Linda Glaser (8)

< Back Beware of Periwinkle Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Periwinkle is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant that was once touted as a great ground cover. It grows very well in most conditions and have pretty green leaves and purple flowers. But now Periwinkle is on some invasive species lists. If you have Periwinkle in your yard, you probably know why. Read this article to understand the problems Periwinkle can pose in your yard and how you can manage them. Periwinkle, also known as Vinca Minor, Creeping Myrtle, Running Myrtle, and Lesser Periwinkle, is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant that was once touted as a great ground cover. But now Periwinkle is listed on the Farm Services Agency USDA Invasive plant list and the invasive species-extension.org list. I was one of those individuals who bought a 3-inch pot of periwinkle and planted it in my wooded backyard. And yes, it grew very well and looked beautiful with green vegetation and purple flowers. It contained the weeds, therefore, maintenance free. What more could I ask for? And then . . . I noticed it crowded out my lilies of the valley, hostas, and ferns. I have since battled the plant trying to contain it within a small area. This article will introduce you to Periwinkle and discuss how to manage it. Common periwinkle was first introduced to the U.S. from Europe in the 1700s as an ornamental. The green stems are slender but woody in appearance. The green leaves are glossy and about an inch long. Some of the varieties of periwinkle have variegated leaf color. The flowers are generally purple to blue. The flowers resemble a phlox flower with 5 lobes and it blooms in May and June. It grows in sun, part-shade, and shady areas from dry to most soil. In other words, it adapts well to many surroundings especially shady areas. It is low growing at approximately 4-8 inches in height but its vine can be as long as 6.6 feet But Periwinkle can take over wooded areas, forests, bluffs, and old homesites due to its dense matting. Because of this, Periwinkle is listed as invasive in other parts of the U.S., including Wisconsin - but not yet Minnesota. As a homeowner what can you do about the Periwinkle problem? There are several action steps you can take: Don’t buy/acquire it If you have it on your property, try and contain or eradicate it. Educate others. Now that you know it is an invasive plant elsewhere, you can tell others about it. How do you get rid of it? There are several manual ways to get rid of periwinkle: Hand pull it - but be sure to wear gloves! You will need to pull it fairly close to the ground to make sure the vines/roots don’t break off, Rake it. Raking the dense mats in large areas will get some of the vines and roots up. Dig it up. Use a shovel or pitchfork and remove excess soil from the roots. Be careful to get all the roots. Mow it or string trim it. You can mow it and then dig it up. Mowing can help contain it. Avoid rotary tillers because any root left in the soil will just grow back. Smother it with cardboard and mulch. Cut, pull up, or rake up as much of the vinca first. Then add a layer of cardboard and 3 inches of mulch on top of the cardboard to smother the plant. You may have to apply multiple times to fully eliminate. If you must use an herbicide, be aware that the plant leaves are waxy, and therefore, herbicides may not work as effectively or may need a second application. Trimming with a string trimmer, and then applying the herbicide may work better to reach the stems of the plant. Periwinkle can appear to be an attractive option if you are looking for a ground cover for tough areas. But, as this article shows, you may want to avoid this plant unless you are up for managing its massive spreading habit. Sources: https://invasive-species.extension.org/vinca-minor-common-periwinkle/ https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/periwinkle https://www.fsa.usda.gov/sites/default/files/documents/appendixe.pdf https://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=461054 Photo credits: www.uniprot.org (all creative commons) 1, www.forestryimages.org (all creative commons) 2

< Back Braiding Sweetgrass – Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge, and Teachings of Plants Gail Maifeld Braiding Sweetgrass, by Robin Wall Kimmerer, is a union of personal biography, science and biology. Kimmerer is an active member of the Patawatomi citizen community. She shares indigenous knowledge and encourages individuals to seek a healthy relationship with their surroundings. Braiding Sweetgrass , by Robin Wall Kimmerer, is a union of personal biography, science and biology. Kimmerer is an active member of the Citizen Patawatomi Nation. Braiding Sweetgrass is a book of essays on Native folkways with plants and their roles in human life. It was originally published in 2013 and was reissued in 2020 with new illustrations. In her book, Kimmerer shares indigenous knowledge and encourages individuals to seek a healthy relationship with their natural environment. The reader is introduced to Skywoman, who tells the story of sweet grass which, in Anishinaabe belief, was the first plant to grow on earth. Sweetgrass holds a “sacred role” and represents an important component of “global ecosystems,” which gives rise to the possibility of a positive relationship between humans and the natural environment. Man should listen to Skywoman rather than the monster Windigo that speaks to us to consume. Man should learn from the indigenous peoples who learned from watching plants, trees and water interact - how plants support each other, how the roots of the cottonwood tree support the shoreline and how cattails purify the water. Kimmerer combines heritage with the knowledge of native peoples and science. How would you be feeling if you couldn’t speak your native language? Eat familiar native foods? Wear native clothing? As a member of the Patawatomi Nation, Kimmerer shares the beauty and necessity of native language and tradition. Native storytelling is a tradition that illustrates the delicate layering of science and culture. Storytelling focuses on a balance between environmental passions and science. If you are yearning for a book of optimism about humans’ relationship with the environment in a world on fire, Braiding Sweetgrass is for you. Or, as a book of gratitude toward nature and a culture of reciprocity toward nature, Braiding Sweetgrass will soothe your soul. Photo Credit: Braiding Sweetgrass Book Cover (1)

< Back Bees - Friend or Foe? Is There a Way I Can Help? Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener As the weather warms, we are faced with the question -” Are bees my friend or foe?” What is your first reaction when you see a bee? Do you stand still and watch in amazement as a bee flies around or do you wave your arms, scream and run the other way. Little eyes are watching our reaction so before you turn and run, let’s teach our children and grandchildren to respect bees and remember how important bees are to us and how we can help them exist by making a Bee Bath. As the weather warms, we are faced with the question -” Are bees my friend or foe?” What is your first reaction when you see a bee? Do you stand still and watch in amazement as a bee flies around or do you wave your arms, scream and run the other way. Little eyes are watching our reaction so before you turn and run, let’s teach our children and grandchildren to respect bees and remember how important bees are to us and how we can help them exist like making a Bee Bath . Are all bees the same? What is the difference between a bee and a wasp or are they the same? Bees and wasps differ in appearance, behavior and diet even though they are both part of the order “Hymenoptera.” Is one better for pollination? Teaching children about bees from an early age will help them to respect and assist in giving us ideas how to help them out. Let’s learn about the differences between bees and wasps and then create a Bee Bath. Bees vs. Wasps Honey Bee Wasp Bees Appearance Wasps Appearance Larger Body - fuller body, fuzzy hairs Slimmer - non hairy, shiny Better Pollinators due to hairy body Still Pollinators - not as productive as bees Bee Behavior Wasp Behavior Less aggressive, Focused on Pollination Can be more aggressive around nests Bee Diet Wasp Diet Feed on pollen & nectar Eat insects, fruit & other food available Let’s Create a Bee Bath During the hot summer months, bees get hot and need to find ways to cool off. One way for a bee to cool off is by drinking water. Water cools the bee and its hive, assists with digestion and also is used to feed the larvae. Bees will find water sources; however, many sources are too deep for the bees so choosing a shallow dish, plant saucer or tray is essential. Making the ideal bee bath will not only be a fun outdoor project for you and your child/grandchild, but also helps the bees in many ways. Supplies Needed: Shallow dish Pebbles, Marbles, Rocks or Natural Material, Moss, Sticks Fresh Water Let’s get started: Fill the shallow dish, tray or planter tray with pebbles, marbles, rocks or other natural materials that will stick above or out of the water. This will serve as the spots where the bees will land and stand while drinking. Use fresh water to place in the shallow dish making sure that the pebbles, rocks, marbles, etc. stick out so that the bees have places to land and stand Replace water regularly. Water will need to be replaced more often during hot weather. Find the right spot to place the Bee Bath. Place the Bee Bath in the shade or partly sunny area. Keep the Bee Bath out of the direct sun so that the water does not warm up too much therefore making it unsafe for the bees. The water should never be hot. Place Bee Bath near flowers to encourage its use as well. Keep educating your children and grandchildren about bees and start creating Bee Baths around your flower and garden beds. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,2,4), pexels.com (3), Rosieshappymusings.blogspot.com , all creative commons (5)

< Back Make Seed Tape with Your Child Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Growing your own vegetables has many benefits. It is a source of delicious food, of course. But it is also a source of wonder for adults and children alike. You can share the wonder with the child in your life by planting vegetable seeds. In this article, learn how to create and plant nice, straight rows of perfectly spaced garden vegetables by using seed tape. A perfect gardening activity for you and your child or grandchild. It’s easy to plant nice, straight rows of perfectly spaced garden vegetables when you use seed tape. You can buy seed tape, but it’s much more fun to make your own, using seeds for vegetables your child enjoys eating, plus a few household items you probably have on hand. You will need: Seeds Single-ply toilet paper (you can separate the paper layers if it is two-ply) Toothpicks Ruler Marker 2 tablespoons of white flour 1 tablespoon of water 1. Choose seeds that have time to mature in Minnesota. Minnesota has a shorter growing season than many states, so select varieties of seeds that will mature more quickly. To find out how long the growing season is where you live, consult the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources’ Final Spring/First Fall Freeze & Frost Date Propabilities . Then, compare that timing with the “Days to Harvest” on seed packets or online—the average number of days from planting until it’s time to harvest, according to Oregon State University. 2. Prepare the toilet paper. Roll out the toilet paper, tearing it off in two or three-foot lengths. If the toilet paper is two-ply, separate the layers. Fold the paper in half along its length, creasing the folded edge, then open, creating a furrow. 3. Measure and mark the toilet paper. Refer to the seed packet to find the spacing distance between seeds. If the distance between seeds should be 2”, use a ruler to measure and mark in the furrow every 2” from one end of the toilet paper strip to the other. 4. Make homemade edible glue, and use it to affix a seed at each mark on the paper . Mix the 2 tablespoons of white flour with 1 tablespoon of water to make glue. Dip a toothpick in the glue, pick up one seed, and place it on each mark on the toilet paper strip. 5. Seal and roll. When seeds have been placed on all the marks on the paper, place more glue dots along one long edge of the toilet paper. Fold the paper on the crease, covering the seeds; press along the long edge. Allow the glue to dry for at least two hours. Then, roll up each strip of toilet paper. Store in a cool, dry spot until planting time. After the last frost date in your area, roll out the tape in your garden bed, cover with soil to the planting depth on the seed packet, and water. Then, watch the magic begin. Photo Credit: Marie Stolte (1,2,3) & www.thegardeningme.com (4)

< Back How to Share Your Plants Safely Sharing plants from our gardens is a common and gratifying practice among gardeners. But in these times, we must know how to share plants safely. Safe from what? Jumping worms have become a significant and difficult problem for Minnesota gardens. This particular type of worm has the ability to ravage your garden soil and weaken or kill your plants. This article will help you learn more about this pest and show you how you can still share your plants safe from the spread of jumping worms. Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The Dakota County Master Gardener Plant Sale is scheduled soon. As we plan to share the lovely garden flowers abound in Dakota County, we will be mindfully bare rooting the plants before donating to the sale . If you are planning to share plants from your garden with others this summer, bare rooting them is the safe way to do it. Why bare root?! The goal of bare rooting plants is to prevent the spread of jumping worms, which are an invasive species of worms in the United States. The worms can produce significant destruction in your garden by severely impacting the soil structure of your garden and reducing or destroying plant growth. Read this article from the University of Minnesota Extension to learn more about jumping worms in Minnesota. Prevention is key to limiting the spread of invasive jumping worms. Since soil, plant roots and mulch are the common materials most likely to spread the jumping worms, you can play an integral role in minimizing jumping worm issues. Note that in the spring, jumping worms are either cocoons or juveniles. The cocoons are the size and color of soil aggregates so they are difficult to see. Juvenile jumping worms may look like other juvenile earthworms at this point, without the telltale cream color collar, so they are hard to find or identify. These worms and juvenile worms can easily hide inside the roots of your plant. You can still share your plants and dramatically reduce the spread of jumping worms by taking steps to “bare root” your plants. The remainder of this article will provide step-by-step instructions about how to do so. How to Bare Root Your Plants Before sharing your beautiful garden plants, please take the following steps to bare root your donations. SUPPLIES: Drop cloth for work area; your plant; deep tray or wash tub; chopsticks or bamboo skewer; 4-5 five gallon buckets, with all but one half full of water; sheets of newspaper; paper towel; sterile soil; twine; label; 5 gallon elastic-top paint strainer and a gallon sized plastic bag. DIRECTIONS : 1. Prepare the work area with a dropcloth. Take the plant out of its pot over the deep tray/washtub. Using the chopsticks/skewer or your hands, completely remove all the dirt directly into the tray. 2. Rinse the roots in 2-3 of the water buckets until clean. 3. Examine the roots to ensure no dirt or potential jumping worm cocoons remain. 4. Position one sheet of newspaper into a diamond shape. Set a paper towel in the middle of the newspaper. 5. Lay the plant on the paper towel. Sprinkle sterile soil on the roots. 6. Wrap the bottom of the newspaper up on the roots and dirt. Fold in both sides of the newspaper over the roots. Tie the packet with twine. 7. Attach a label with the plant’s name to the twine. Write the plant’s name on the newspaper, too. 8. Put the tied packet into a bucket of clean water (ie., a bucket of water not used to rinse the roots) to hydrate it initially, removing it after soaked. Water the packet daily. 9. Return the dirt from the washtub to the old plant pot. Put the dirt back where it came from. 10. Pull the elastic paint strainer over the empty bucket. Dump everything collected in the other 5 gallon buckets (that you used to rinse off the plant’s dirt) into the empty bucket. Remove the strainer and the strained material into a gallon sized plastic bag. Seal the bag and discard it in the trash. Tip the bucket to empty the water into the area where the plant originated. Clean the dropcloth to prevent inadvertent spread of the worms/cocoons. NOTE : Since no earthworms are native to Minnesota, drop any worms found while bare rooting into a plastic bag, seal it and put it in the trash. Do not compost. With a little practice, you’ll get the hang of bare rooting. A practice well worth it to keep your garden healthy. Resources Bare Root Instructions Credit to Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Video instructions from Dakota County Master Gardeners. Included in this video is another video by Julia Vanatta. Special credit must be given to her. Without her research and demonstration classes this article could not have been written. Julia promotes sustainable gardening as a volunteer for Wild Ones Twin Cities. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3), Longfield Gardens (from Creative Commons licenses) (1)

< Back Black Spruce (Picea mariana): A Northwoods Native Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains, you don’t need to go to the Rhine country in Germany to see a cathedral of natural majesty. This month, Jim profiles the mighty and beautiful Black Spruce (pices mariana). Black Spruce is native to Minnesota and can grow to 50-100 feet under the right environmental conditions. But other varieties have been developed for landscape use. Read on to learn more about this magnificent conifer. Last spring we toured the Rhine country of Germany. The majestic twin spires of the Cathedral of Cologne couldn’t help but remind me of the North Country of Minnesota. In that cathedral of the Northwoods, the spires of Pices mariana (black spruce) soar skyward in quiet majesty. They are native to the northern Midwest and grow well throughout Central and Upper Minnesota. They require full sun and are quite sensitive to shading. Black Spruce is a slow-growing conifer and prefers moist environments. It is often found in bogs and other wetlands. a stand of Black Spruce Black Spruce vary in height depending on the environment, ranging from 15 to 50 feet in height, although some can push to 100 feet. The leaves are needle-like and seed cones are small, ½ to 1 ½ inches long, dark purple ripening to reddish brown. They are produced in dense clusters in the upper crown, opening at maturity but persisting for several years. needles and young cones The roots of black spruce are shallow and spread widely. Consequently, the tree is susceptible to wind-throw. Perhaps the most spectacular example was the 1999 July 4 th Boundary Waters Blowdown or derecho. Aerial view of the 1999 Blowdown A number of cultivars have been developed for landscape use. The cultivar P. mariana ‘Nana’ is a dwarf form that has gained in popularity. If you are looking for one of these stately trees, they are hard to find in nurseries but can readily be grown from seed. They do transplant well. So, with a bit of patience, you can inexpensively generate a handsome stand of black spruce. Photo Credits: Daniel Case, Wikipedia (1,2), Quetico Superior Wilderness News (3)

< Back How to Deal with Pantry Pests Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener If you have ever opened a bag of flour and found little black speck in it, you have experienced a common household problem – pantry pests. Any kind of dried food, especially flour, meal (example, cornmeal), and cereal, can become a home for pantry pests, which will contaminate all the food they touch. Read this article to learn about what these pests might be, how to prevent them and what to do if you find them in your flour! If you have ever opened a bag of flour and found little black speck in it, you have experienced a common household problem – pantry pests. Any kind of dried food, especially flour, meals (example, cornmeal), and cereal, can become a home for pantry pests, which will contaminate all the food they touch. Pantry pests are not picky. Although their preferred foods are grains, like flour, cereal and other processed food, nearly any food stored a room temperature can be a target. Dried fruits, beans, nuts and spices are favorites. Any open package is also a target, but these pests can get into unopened packages as well. The most common culprits are: moths and multiple types of beetles, cigarette, drugstore and saw-toothed beetles – and weevils. Confused Flour Beetle, found in flour, cereals, meal Rest assured, you did nothing to cause this problem! These pests come from granaries, warehouses and food processing plants. They travel from the grocery store to your home and are so tine – many are 1/8” in length or less – they can be difficult, if not impossible, to spot until they multiply, infesting your food. Merchant Grain Beetle, found in Cereals, pasta, flour, meal, nuts, cracked seeds, seed dust How to prevent infestations Prevention is the best cure. Check incoming groceries, including pet and bird food. Better yet, check packages in the grocery store before you buy! Look for packages that are not well sealed or have tiny holes. Avoid packages that have dents or scratches. Check the expiration date – the longer a product has been sitting around in the same place, the more likely it is to be infested. Also, the longer a product sits in your pantry the more likely it is to become infested. The answer is to buy small packages that you can use up in two to four months. Consider transferring target foods to glass, plastic or metal containers with airtight seals. They keep pests out much better than cardboard or foil. Or store products, like flour and other meals, in your refrigerator. How to you know if you have an infestation If you find a pest in an area where you don’t store food – especially in the summer when insects flourish – you probably don’t need to worry. But if they are on your counter or the floor near your pantry, it could be an early sign of pest infestation. What to do about it If you find a pest, throw away the box or package it is in. Check the products that were stored near it. If you can’t see the bottom of a package or box, pour the food onto a baking sheet and check it with a flashlight. Granary Weevil, found in Whole grains, rice, corn, millet, rye, beans, bird seed, and caked meal If you don’t find anything, the pest was likely an isolated incident. However, if you do find an infestation or even just a pest or two, do the following: Empty out your pantry Vacuum the shelves Wash down the shelves with soapy water Check each package and box before returning it to the shelf Don’t do the following: Apply bleach ammonia or pesticides – they don’t work and are dangerous if they contact food Spray the area with insecticides If you have concerns or want to be extra cautious, freeze the package or box for three to four days. Alternatively, you can heat the product in an oven at 140 degrees fahrenheit for two or three yours. Either method will kill any eggs or larvae. If you have survived an infestation – or want to be sure you never have one- clean your pantry shelves every three to six months, which has the extra benefit of helping you stay organized! References : https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/pantry-pests-insects-found-stored-food https://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/packages/kitchen-fixes/everything-about-pantry-pests https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/common-pantry-pests-and-their-management https://extension.psu.edu/cereal-and-pantry-pests Picture Credits: Gary Alpert, Penn State Extension (1,2), University of Nebraska, Department of Entomology (3)

< Back The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Who knew that the life of an “agricultural explorer” could be both fascinating and suspenseful. Read this review of book, “The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats” to learn why food exploration can be exciting! Reviewed By Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener A century ago, the American table was a simpler place. Vegetables and fruit were limited to what could be grown in the home garden or found in a grocery store. Some of the items missing from that world? Kale, mangoes, avocados, seedless grapes, zucchini, soybeans, pistachios, Meyer lemons, and more. Then along came botanist David Fairchild (1869-1954), the Indiana Jones of the plant world. In his book The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats (2018), author David Stone uses Fairchild’s journals, letters, and photographs to document the extraordinary journeys of the man who changed American culinary life forever. This is a riveting tale of exploration and horticulture, of espionage and diplomacy, of the finest German hops and the famed cherry blossom trees of Washington, D.C. Fairchild’s story takes him from Kansas to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, where he works with a meager budget assisting the American farmer fighting crop fungus. Then a chance meeting with a wealthy benefactor named Barbour Lathrop allows the young man to leave his post and travel as a private citizen, circling the globe on a mission to ship back samples of exotic plants and seeds as an “agricultural explorer,” as he refers to himself. Fairfield’s team transports both plants completely new and foreign varieties of species already known in the United States. Along the way, Fairchild and his team escape dangerous situations, face political resistance from multiple governments, and cross paths with famous figures like the Wright Brothers and Alexander Graham Bell. When Fairchild settles down at the age of 34, he founds the Office of Seed and Plant Introduction with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which introduces over 200,000 new plant species and varieties to the country. This book is highly recommended to foodies, gardeners, and history buffs alike. It can be found in the Dakota County Library system.