< Back Our State Insect: The Monarch Butterfly Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The days are getting shorter, the leaves are changing, some days there is a noticeable chill in the air. Time to head south before the snow flies. I’m not talking about Minnesotans who’ve experienced one too many frigid winters, but rather the Minnesota state butterfly, the monarch. Click here to read fascinating facts about the monarch butterfly, renowned for its extraordinary migration. Since March 31, 2000, the monarch butterfly has represented Minnesota as the state butterfly after being promoted by a fourth-grade class at Anderson Elementary School in Mahtomedi, Minnesota. It was a popular choice. Elementary schools in six other states convinced their state legislatures to adopt the monarch as their state butterfly as well. Though monarch butterflies can be seen all over North America, from Canada to Mexico, the eastern monarch butterfly numbers have dropped drastically over the last few decades. In fact, on July 21, 2022, the International Union for Conservation of Nature declared the monarch as endangered, threatened by habitat destruction and climate change. However, the monarch is not protected by the Endangered Species Act (ESA) because the US Fish and Wildlife Service has not yet determined the monarch belongs on the protected list. Most creatures on the ESA list have very localized habitats, whereas the monarch is widespread, making it difficult to enforce protection of its habitat. To understand the range of the monarch, it is important to look at the life cycle of the insect. The Latin name for the monarch butterfly is Danaus plexippus, which literally means sleepy transformation. The monarch undergoes a complete metamorphosis from egg, to larva (caterpillar), then pupa (chrysalis), and finally the adult stage. The egg and caterpillar stages occur only on species of milkweed (genus Asclepias), whereas adults survive on the nectar from a variety of flowering plants. In a single year, there will be 4 to 5 generations of monarchs. A butterfly lays one egg at a time, roughly the size of a pinhead or pencil tip. But throughout their lifespan a female lays an average of 300-500 eggs specifically on milkweed plants so that the caterpillars will emerge directly on their only source of food. During the caterpillar stage, they simply eat, rest, and grow until they form into a chrysalis from which they finally emerge as a butterfly to begin the cycle all over again. The monarch life cycle The transformation from egg to adult takes about a month, and then they live only two to six weeks as adults, where their main focus is laying eggs to build their population throughout the summer. That is until the last generation of the season. This super generation is the group of butterflies that make the long journey all the way to Mexico along with tens of millions of other monarchs. This generation may live up to eight or nine months! Tags or modern sensors have been placed on monarchs to gather data about the amazing journey that takes them from as far north as Canada thousands of miles to their winter home in Mexico, or in California in the case of the western Monarchs. Upon reaching their destination west of Mexico City, they flutter around in the warmth of the sun by day, and at night they huddle together covering entire trees. In the spring, they make the journey north laying eggs on milkweed plants along the way. To experience for yourself the magical sight of millions of monarchs wintering in Mexico, consider traveling with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s curator of endangered plants on Kingdom of Monarchs | Minnesota Landscape Arboretum trip to Mexico in February 2024. In the days ahead, be on the lookout for the last stragglers beginning their long journey south to Mexico. The easiest way to tell the difference between a male and female monarch, is to note the presence of black dots on each of the male’s wings or the lack of dots on the female. Ponder the long road ahead for these magnificent creatures and perhaps how you can help them thrive in the future. Consider creating or enhancing a pollinator habitat in your yard or community. Identify a sunny location, prepare the site for sowing native seeds or installing native plants, plant, and continue to conduct maintenance to provide a healthy habitat. Check out Minnesota Zoo for a list of Minnesota native pollinator favorites. For additional resources for monarch fans of all ages, visit monarch joint venture . Resources for this article: https://ece.engin.umich.edu/stories/tracking-monarch-butterfly-migration-with-the-worlds-smallest-computer https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/us-state-butterflies-and-insects.html#:~:text=The%20Monarch%20Butterfly%20is%20an,the%20friendliness%20of%20the%20states . https://www.iucn.org/press-release/202207/migratory-monarch-butterfly-now-endangered-iucn-red-list#:~:text=Gland%2C%20Switzerland%2C%2021%20July%202022,habitat%20destruction%20and%20climate%20change . https://www.fws.gov/press-release/2020-12/endangered-species-act-listing-monarch-butterfly-warranted-precluded https://www.worldwildlife.org/species/monarch-butterfly#:~:text=The%20monarch%20butterfly%20is%20known,ability%20to%20hibernate%20and%20metamorphize . https://www.revisor.mn.gov/laws/2000/0/306/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/insects/monarchbutterfly.html https://arb.umn.edu/kingdom-monarchs https://mnzoo.org/conservation/act-wildlife/plant-pollinators/ https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/pollinators/Monarch_Butterfly/migration/index.shtml https://monarchjointventure.org/about-us/partners Photo credits: Lisa Olson, Master Gardener (1), Monarch Joint Venture https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/life-cycle (2), Monarch Joint Venture https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/life-cycle (3), https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/vital-statistics-and-measuring (4)

< Back Hum along with HUMMINGBIRDS, NATURE’S FLYING GEMS BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener In 1485, Leonardo da Vinci designed the first helicopter, though it was never built. 454 years passed before Igor Sikorsky finally developed an aircraft that could fly forwards, backward, straight up and straight down, and hover in air. Hummingbirds, meanwhile, have existed on our planet for roughly 42 million years and fossils of these aerial acrobats, dating from 30 – 35 million years ago, were unearthed in Germany in 2004. Those fossils reveal that the early ancestors of these birds, that capture our awe today, also hovered and flew in any direction they pleased. About 12 million years ago, hummingbirds migrated to North America and have evolved into 366 distinct species covering North America, Central America, South America and in the islands of the Caribbean Sea. That’s correct, they are no longer found in Germany. East of the western border of Minnesota, the only hummingbird routinely found is the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird. Migrating from their winter homes in Central America, these tiniest of all birds fly across the eastern coast of Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico, arriving in Minnesota around the 10th of May. The journey to their northern nesting sites may be upwards of 2,000 miles; with wings beating greater than 50 times per second and a heart rate of up to 1,200 beats per minute, it’s not hard to imagine how much energy they require to make such a journey. For this reason, it’s imperative that food for these miniature migrators be available as they arrive. Native plants that bloom in late April to early May are a critical part of the habitat for both those that stay and nest locally as well as those that continue to central Canada. Early season bloomers like Virginia Bluebells, Jacob’s Ladder, Woodland Phlox, Wild Columbine, Beardtongue, Paintbrush flower and Fire Pink, provide the sweet nectar needed to replenish the weight lost on their arduous journey. As spring turns into summer, it’s helpful to have blooming plants like Wild Bergamot, Scarlet Beebalm, Wood Lily, Tall Larkspur, Prairie Blazing Star, Fire Weed and Butterfly Milkweed in your garden to provide the nectar needed to feed the hatchlings. Plants that attract small insects are also helpful as those are the only source of protein for these small creatures. In fall, as the birds prepare to fly 2,000 miles and return to their winter habitat, late season flowers like Orange Jewelweed, Cardinal Flower, Royal Catchfly, and Great Blue Lobelia, will help them ‘carb up’ for the flight back. Additionally, as the hummers gather nectar from plants, they also perform the duties of pollination in order the insure continued growth of their favorite foods. Of course, it is helpful to supplement their diet by having one or more hummingbird feeders in your yard; especially if you don’t have early season bloomers. When purchasing a feeder, remember that the birds don’t care how fancy it is, but they do care that it is red, that it has a perch so that they may rest while feeding, and that it is easy to clean. The ‘nectar’ is easy to make: one cup of granulated sugar in 4 cups of water is a perfect ratio. NO RED DYE should be added as they are attracted to the feeder, not the food. The water should be changed, and the feeder cleaned with hot soapy water every 3 – 4 days to ensure mold doesn’t grow in their food. Please keep those feeders out until at least late-September to provide a meal to any late-season wayfarers heading south from Canada. West of the Mississippi, you can find other species of Hummers: Allen’s and Anna’s, Black Chinned and Costa’s, as well as the Rufous; many of them stay in their habitat year-round, providing one more reason to escape to warmer climates during our long, cold winters. For few things can stir our imagination and sense of wonder at nature, few things can bring that broad smile to our faces, as seeing this winged marvel: the Hummingbird. References: ● https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/planting-for-hummingbirds ● https://bigthink.com/the-past/da-vinci-helicopter/ ● https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vought-Sikorsky_VS-300 ● https://science.ebird.org/en/status-and trends/species/rthhum/abundance-map ● https://westernhummingbird.org/hummerguide/https://www.allaboutbirds.org/news/summertime-in-the-united-states-of-hummingbirds/# Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . ● https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=astu Photo 1 credit: Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . Photos 2, 4, 5 - Doug Hansell Photo 3, credit: Audubon 2025 calendar, Corey Raffel

< Back Taking Care of and Protecting Trees Before Winter Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Trees add value in several ways: they have a cooling effect by shading homes during the warmer months, add property value, absorb carbon dioxide, and generally help lower stress levels of those around them. Here in Minnesota, our trees need some extra care going into winter. Read on for ways to help get them ready! Our trees in Dakota County are subjected to a wide range of elements - wide temperature and humidity swings, sun exposure, strong winds and of course lots of hungry wildlife. Many trees, especially native trees , have evolved to survive all of the seasons in Minnesota. That said, we can take steps to prepare them for the winter season now. Newly planted trees in particular will benefit with some extra care to help them out this time of year. Protect the roots Cover the root zone of newly planted trees (within last 2-3 years) with 3-4 inches of shredded wood mulch to insulate the soil (snow cover on top will help insulate more). Keep mulch about 6 inches away from trunk - think “donut” not “volcano” of mulch - (this prevents unintended roots from forming and ultimately girdling the tree). If the fall has been dry, as we’ve experienced recently in Minnesota, continue to water about once a week until the ground freezes. Read more about watering newly planted trees here . Look for cracks in the soil around new trees and fill any you find with soil. This will help to keep cold air out over the winter. Protect against damage from the sun and wind For both deciduous and evergreen trees, the energy from the sun (even in the cold of winter) can warm trees up enough to stimulate activity. The tree then loses moisture above ground without being able to draw up new water through frozen soil by the roots so the tissues dry out and can be damaged. Any new growth is at risk of dying back when the tree cools off again. Trees planted without shelter from winter winds are even more susceptible to moisture loss. For deciduous trees, protect the bark from winter sun and wind. A light-colored commercial tree wrap or plastic guard (not brown paper or black plastic) will reflect the sun and help to keep the bark at a more consistent temperature. Wrap newly planted trees for first two winters (and up to five winters if the species has thin bark such as a maple tree). Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost so the tree can get back to healthy growing. As the tree matures, the bark thickens and protects it better from sun scald. This tree at Mendakota Park has white wrap around the trunk, a bag to water the tree’s roots slowly, and a stake with a loose twine attached to a guard around the trunk to prevent too much rocking in the wind without rubbing on the bark. All of this is a great set up for success! For evergreen trees, it is a very good idea to protect the tree from drying winds and winter sun. Cover with trimmed evergreen boughs after the holiday season or wrap with burlap or a similar material. Remember to leave the top open enough for air circulation and some indirect light penetration. Providing winter protection for newly planted Arbor Vitae Try to minimize tree damage from wildlife Hungry mice, rabbits, voles and deer can cause a lot of damage to trees and shrubs in your landscape over the winter! Begin by reducing habitat in the fall - cut grasses and other vegetation short in late fall within two feet of young trees, and remove piles of brush in order to take away protective cover for rodents. Don’t let them get comfortable in your yard when it’s cold outside. Then, you can put up a physical barrier by creating a cylinder of 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth around the tree trunk. Keep the cylinder at least 6 inches away from the trunk (more if you want to enclose low hanging branches) to avoid causing damage. Extend 2-3 inches under the soil if you are trying to keep mice away, 18 to 24 inches above the expected snow line in order to deter rabbits. If deer are hungry enough, it’s hard to keep them away. As a protected species, the best strategies are removing comfortable areas to bed down and physical barriers. Just like in the growing seasons, a high (8-12 ft) fence is generally needed to keep them away completely. Repellents available at farm and garden stores can provide some help for deterring both deer and rabbits. What about pruning and fertilizing trees in the fall? With some exceptions, it is best to prune most trees at the end of winter while they are still dormant (with some exceptions for flowering and fruiting trees). However, obviously broken or diseased limbs can be removed in the fall - especially once leaves have dropped and you can see the damage. Read more about pruning here . Lastly, be mindful of fertilizing trees, especially newly planted ones. A burst of vigorous growth right before a freeze can be easily damaged, so it’s generally best to wait to apply until spring (sandy soils) or late in fall, once the tree is dormant (heavy soils). It is a fine sight to see new buds sprouting on trees in the spring. Help your trees along through the winter, especially those that are newly planted by: - Insulating their roots from cold and fluctuating temperatures with a good layer of mulch - Protecting bare deciduous trees and the foliage of evergreens from sun and wind damage - Making sure they get enough water through rain and supplemental irrigation up until the ground freezes. - Do what you can to help them defend against hungry critters For more in depth information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension website here: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (all)

< Back Our State Flower: The Showy Lady’s Slipper Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Have you ever wondered about how state symbols came to be? Though united as one great nation, each of our 50 states is proud to highlight its unique representations, as varied as the individuals who inhabit their lands. Over the next several months, in this section you can learn more about some of our own Minnesota state symbols. The state flower is a fitting place to launch our exploration of our state symbols as it paved the way for the rest of the symbols chosen to proudly represent each state. And so we begin with our Minnesota state flower, the showy lady’s slipper. The showy lady’s slipper is also known by its Latin name, Cypripedium reginae, and more common name, pink and white lady’s slipper or simply moccasin flower. To the Ojibwe, it is known as Agobizowin . Its designation as Minnesota’s state flower was passed into law in 1967, but the journey began long ago in 1893, inspired by the World’s Fair in Chicago. The 1893 World’s Fair brought people from each state and at least 40 countries to Chicago to celebrate ideas, inventions, and achievements. The Congress of Representative Women was a weeklong convention at the fair that brought hundreds of women together from across the United States and the world to voice concerns of the day in front of crowds numbering in the thousands. To prepare for the event, one idea proposed was the “National Garland of Flowers,” whereby each U.S. state and territory would choose a flower that represented the state’s history, culture, and environment at the fair. The plants chosen for the fair were not yet considered official state flowers, but the event did inspire states to consider the idea of an official state flower. After consulting with a state botanist, women from across the state inclusive of every congressional district voted for a state flower from the following list: Lady’s Slipper Silky Aster Indian Pink Coneflower Wild Rose The lady’s slipper won by a huge margin and a petition was written to the state legislature to make it the state flower. While the picture of the correct plant made its way onto the Minnesota state flag in 1893, the incorrect Latin name was used in the official petition to the legislature, and the Senate designated Cypripedium calceolous, a flower that doesn’t exist in Minnesota, as our state symbol. Thankfully, the women of the St. Anthony Study Circle caught the error, and in 1902 a new resolution was written. The error didn’t go unnoticed, however. Newspapers of the day were quick to run headlines proclaiming our state flower a fake. But all’s well that ends well. The corrected resolution was passed by the Senate and House naming Cypripedium reginae , or showy lady’s slipper, as our state flower. Finally, in 1967 an actual law was passed that sealed the correct plant its place in our state’s history as our official state flower. The showy lady’s slipper is the tallest of over 40 orchid species native to Minnesota. The Latin species name reginae means “queen” and spotting this magnificent plant in the wild makes it clear how this moccasin flower got its name. It grows one to two feet tall and produces usually one or two flowers on its tall, sturdy stem. Out of a single rhizome, up to 20 stems may emerge. The flower consists of white petals and sepals and a magenta streaked inflated pouch, or slipper. Blooms last up to two weeks and typically occur in June to early July. Four to twelve large elliptical leaves that are five to ten inches long with parallel veins wrap around the stem. The leaves and stem are covered in bristle-like hair that may cause a rash if touched. This showy plant commonly lives 50 years, though some plants have been known to survive 100 years! It is a good thing it is so long-lived as it may take up to 16 years for its first flower to bloom. Each year a plant may produce as many as 500,000 seeds that are as fine as flour dust. They do not transplant well. It is better to just enjoy them by taking a photo if you find one. In fact, since 1925, the showy lady’s slipper has been protected by law making it illegal to pick or dig up the plants. For specific rules regarding written permission and permits from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and the Minnesota Department of Transportation, you can read Information on transplanting Lady's-slipper Orchids . Here are a few ways to enjoy the showy lady’s slipper in person: Go to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum . Call the Bloom Line ( 612-625-9791) in advance to hear if they are in bloom along the Arb’s Bog Walk. Walk along Lady’s Slipper Lane at the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden and Bird Sanctuary in Minneapolis. Take a drive along Lady Slipper Scenic Byway in northern Minnesota through the Chippewa National Forest to see them blooming along the roadside. To learn more about our beautiful state flower, see the following links for additional information: https://www.leg.mn.gov/leg/symbols https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/flower2.pdf https://statesymbolsusa.org/ https://learninglab.si.edu/collections/a-national-garland-how-women-led-the-movement-to-declare-state-flowers/mAFroO4vbPlJakiE https://arbconservation.umn.edu/minnesotas-native-orchids#:~:text=There%20are%20roughly%20200%20species,one%20quarter%20of%20all%20species . https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/plant-of-the-week/cypripedium_reginae.shtml https://arb.umn.edu/about/contact-us https://www.minneapolisparks.org/parks-destinations/parks-lakes/gardens__bird_sanctuaries/eloise_butler_wildflower_garden_and_bird_sanctuary/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/snapshots/plants/showyladysslipper.html https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/showy-ladys-slipper https://seasonwatch.umn.edu/showy-ladys-slipper Photo Credit: Office of the Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and US Forest Service (2,3), Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (5)

< Back All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition “All New Square Foot Gardening” is an updated version of square foot gardening principles first introduced 40 years ago. The basic philosophy of this gardening method remains the same but this book demonstrates how the method has been refined and improved. Growing vegetables in your backyard is both possible and fun! Mel Bartholomew Reviewed by Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener This is an updated version of the tried-and-true Square Foot Gardening principles first introduced in 1981 by Mel Bartholomew. Bartholomew believed that everyone should be able to enjoy freshly harvested produce, that gardening should be fun, easy to understand and successful. The method saves land and water and is efficient. The Square Foot Gardening Foundation, started by Bartholomew, hopes this update will encourage new gardeners. SFG’s philosophy of reducing garbage by composting, less fuel to transport food, eating fresh and more salads, less water usage, no fertilizers, and no plastic waste, will appeal to a new group of gardeners. This publication includes multiple pictures of square and other shaped gardens followed by tips for attractive vertical gardening for beans, peas, squash, and more. The book emphasizes planting what you want to eat with a specific number of plants. Limited planting causes less waste and results in vegetables and salad greens for you to eat. The update doesn’t offer major changes to Square Foot Gardening philosophy but the system has been even further refined and improved to fully meet today's changing resources, needs, and challenges. This book should encourage home gardeners to understand that growing vegetables in their backyard is both possible and fun! Photo Credit: All New Square Foot Gardening, Third Edition (1)

< Back Eating Winter Melon Looking for a comfort food that can come straight from your garden? Try this recipe using winter melon. Winter melon, also known as ash gourd, is a fruit native to parts of Southern Asia. The fruit grows on a vine and matures into a round or oblong melon that is approximately the same size and color as a watermelon. When it is ripe, it’s exterior turns a greenish-powdery ash-color. It tastes a bit like cucumber and is delicious in the soup described in this article. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Winter melon, also known as ash gourd, is a fruit native to parts of Southern Asia. Winter melon grows on a vine and matures into a round or oblong melon that is approximately the same size and color as a watermelon. When it is ripe, it’s exterior turns a greenish-powdery ash-color. The fruit tastes somewhat like cucumber. It is said to have various health benefits and has been used in Asian medicine and cuisine for centuries. This recipe comes from an Asian-American vlogger named Yi who touts it as being a childhood comfort food for when you have a cold - a sort of “remedy for what ails ya”! Traditional Winter Melon Soup Ingredients: 1 lb winter melon, cut into 1” square pieces 1 lb ground pork Pork seasoning : 1 egg 1.5 tbsp cornstarch 1/4 tsp salt 1 large piece ginger, peeled and sliced 1 smaller piece peeled ginger for grinding or mincing Soup seasoning : 1 tsp olive oil 1 large piece ginger 1 tsp Sichuan peppercorn (optional) 1 tbsp Goji berries 2 tsp salt 1 tsp sesame oil Chopped green onion for garnish Directions: Crack egg into ground pork in medium sized bowl. Season pork with salt and one-half teaspoon cornstarch, mixing in ground or minced ginger until pork sticks together well. Pour olive oil into large saucepan on low heat, add sliced ginger and optional Sichuan peppercorns and heat until mixture becomes fragrant. Add enough boiling water to reach halfway up the sides of the saucepan. Form small meatballs from pork mixture and place into saucepan over increased heat, cooking until soup comes to a boil and meatballs are cooked well. Remove excess grease off top of soup. Carefully add chunks of winter melon to soup, cover saucepan, and let boil for 15 minutes. Stir in Goji berries, salt, and sesame oil. Serve garnished with chopped green onion. Taken from Yi’s Szechuan Kitchen: https://sichuankitchenrecipes.com/2023/11/19/authentic-chinese-winter-melon-soup-recipe/ Reference: https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/ash-gourd Photo credit: Anita Oakman (1)

< Back How to Choose the Best Plants – Master Gardeners Can Help It’s May and you are thinking about which vegetables and flowers you want to grow in your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, broccoli, swiss chard, cilantro? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. Garden stores have so many different varieties on the racks; how do you know what to buy? Also, is May too late to grow these plants from seed? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help you choose. Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s May and you are thinking about which vegetables and flowers you want to grow in your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, broccoli, swiss chard, Cilantro? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. Garden stores have so many different varieties on the racks; how do you know what to buy? Also, is May too late to grow these plants from seed? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help you choose. The UMN Extension sponsors Annual Master Gardener Seed Trials to find the best varieties of various vegetables and flowers. In 2024, 298 Master Gardeners in 55 counties around the state, tested 6 different varieties of 8 different plants against each other (6 vegetables and two flower varieties; including one herb). The collective results of the trials are compiled at the end of each growing season and each plant is ranked. Winners are the top performers in each trial. The rankings are published each year in January. This will be the 43nd year of the Seed Trials’ existence, so there is ample data on many varieties to inform the home gardener. In Dakota County, Master Gardeners manage two Seed Trial Gardens; one in the First Presbyterian Church Community Garden, South St. Paul and one at St. Joseph’s Church in Rosemount. Some individual Master Gardeners also participate by testing plants in their own gardens. Master Gardeners receive the seeds from the UMN Extension and grow the plants from seed. The plants are planted in the ground or transferred to the gardens in the spring according to planting instructions. Teams of Master Gardeners prepare the soil, plant the seeds or seedlings, water, weed, and monitor diseases and insects on the plants over the summer. Taste tests are performed when the plants are ready for harvest. Data is kept throughout the summer on each plant variety regarding: flavor, disease and insect tolerance, productivity and germination rate. At the end of the growing season, the data is given to the UMN Extension, which compiles the statewide data and produces the annual report. In 2024, Master Gardeners tested 6 varieties of Swiss chard, Asian long beans, stem broccoli, cilantro, shallots, snacking peppers, helichrysum (strawflowers) and centaurea (bachelor buttons). Complete results of the trials are available here . In 2024, the top ranked plants in each category were: Vegetables Asian long beans: Yu Long Noodle Kin – soak seeds overnight before planting outside in mid-May Shallot: Davidor Swiss Chard: Bright Lights Broccoli: Happy Rich – excellent cooked flavor, high yield and minimal stem diameter Pepper: Cupid Cilantro: Calypso – Bred to last longer and produce a bigger harvest; direct sow in late May Flowers Helichrysum (Strawflowers): Scarlet Choice Double Centaurea (Bachelor Buttons): Blue Boy Shallots Note : You can find a complete list of all of the seed trials since 1982 at the same site. Volunteer Master Gardeners around the state, including Dakota County, participate in various projects which improve horticulture and provide gardening information that will be useful to the home gardener. The vegetable and flower trials are one of these projects. Hopefully, you can use this information to grow happy, healthy vegetables or flowers for your enjoyment. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota; Susan Hickey (1), Robert Hatlevig (2,3), University of Minnesota Extension; Jenna Kahly (4)

< Back Foraging 101 Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement. Here are some suggestions on how to get started. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Morel mushrooms, the state mushroom of Minnesota, are a prized commodity for top restaurant chefs and home cooks alike. Rarely found in a supermarket, these mushrooms often run over $150 per pound when purchased online. A more frugal solution is simply foraging for the mushrooms—the cost of morels is now only your time. Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement, the “gatherer” portion of the hunter-gatherer society. It requires a connection to the land, a knowledge of what is edible, where certain plants can be found, and when in the year they will be ready for consumption. Once necessary for human survival, foraging is now made superfluous by grocery stores and food manufacturing. Today foraging is a choice, and its popularity is growing each year. For gardeners, foraging is an extension of the practice in the garden. Often what is foraged cannot be cultivated in a home garden—particularly for wild mushrooms, but also for wild onions or other plants. Learning the forageable plants near home, as well as their life cycles, opens up all sorts of possibilities for new plants to eat. Frequently Asked Questions Q: What can I forage in Minnesota? A: Everything from mushrooms and wild fruit to nuts, evergreens, leafy greens, and even cattails. Q: Is foraging just for food? A: No. You can also forage for natural specimens or even art supplies, as many plants and mushrooms such as lobster mushrooms and sumac are sources of dye. Q: Is it legal to forage in Minnesota? A: Sometimes! Double check your laws before taking anything from publicly owned land, and know if you are on national, state, or regional land. It is LEGAL to forage small quantities in MN State Parks as long as it is for home use, not to be sold for a profit. It is ILLEGAL to forage in any Dakota County Regional Park. As for national land like national parks and national forests? The laws are different for each one. Look up rules specific to the national forest or park you want to forage in. Q: Once I have determined that I may legally forage, what’s the best practice for sustainability? A: Take less than 20% of what you find in the wild for most foraged items, and take less than 10% of what you find if it is particularly slow growing, like mosses or lichens. Q: Where can I learn more about foraging? A: A few excellent resources include Euall Gibbons’ 1962 book Stalking the Wild Asparagus , MN chef Alan Bergo’s website ForagerChef.com , and Bergo’s newest book The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora (2021). For more on foraging laws, see Baylen J. Linnekin’s article “Food Law Gone Wild: The Law of Foraging” (2018). https://ir.lawnet.fordham.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2740&context=ulj Photo credit: Kevin Miyazaki/Meredith (Creative Commons)(1)

< Back Carrots and Parsnips Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your garden for eating in the winter. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. Learn more about how to grow and enjoy these healthy and tasty vegetables. Julie Harris, Master Gardeners Carrots and parsnips are favorite “winter” vegetables. They are “root” vegetables that are staples of Minnesota gardens. You can save the carrots and parsnips that you grew in your gardens for eating in the winter by pickling, boiling, blanching or freezing. Even if you didn’t grow them yourself, carrots and parsnips are a great addition to a winter meal. There are many carrot varieties. When choosing them, consider size (long, thin carrots versus short, stubby ones) and the ultimate use, such as a great crunch when freshly picked, long term storage use, or cooking. Parsnips are white but look like carrots in that they are generally long and they taper from a thick top to a narrow end. Carrots and parsnips love sandy, loam soil. Unlike parsnips, carrots will grow in heavier clay soil as long as it is well-drained and not compacted. Soil can be improved by adding well-rotted manure or compost in the spring or fall. Always sow carrot or parsnip seeds directly into garden; do not start them in pots. Their long taproots begin to develop early and transplanting damages their root growth. The seeds are tiny and can be difficult to handle. Some people choose to buy carrot seed in a “tape” format or in pellets. Seed tape is more expensive but may yield better results because less thinning is required. Minnesota gardeners can begin to plant carrots directly into garden soil beginning April 15 and parsnips beginning May 1. For a continuous supply, one can plant sets of seeds 2 or 3 weeks apart. When the seedlings are 3-4 inches tall, the plants need to be thinned to allow roots to develop. Most importantly, they need consistent watering to avoid bitter, misshapen or undersized roots. Carrots can be harvested when they get to useable size but be sure to water the day before harvesting or after a rain to ensure root hydration. Make sure to loosen the soil around the carrot before pulling them out to avoid breaking the root. Remove the greens and clean the roots before eating or storing. Parsnips should remain in the ground until late fall and even into later spring. Cold soil temperatures increase the sugar content, so the later you dig out the roots, the sweeter they will be. Parsnips are best stored in a root cellar. Both vegetables are loaded with vitamins and nutrients that are good for you. Carrots have vitamin A and beta-carotene which may lower diabetes risk. They also contain calcium and vitamin K which is for good for bone health. Carrots are also known for their fiber which helps keep blood sugar levels under control. Parsnips are loaded with vitamin K and magnesium, and also contain fiber and antioxidants. The two vegetables have distinctive flavors. The parsnip has an almost spicey flavor, reminiscent of nutmeg and cinnamon, whereas the carrot has a flavor that is closer to that of winter squash. Carrots can be eaten raw or cooked but parsnips are generally eaten cooks. Parsnips are generally sweeter than carrots and, in fact, were used as a sweetener before cane sugar was available. The bottom line - carrots and parsnips are nutritious and delicious! References: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-carrots-and-parsnips#diseases-3180361 https://www.organicauthority.com/eco-chic-table/carrots-vs-parsnips-whats-difference . Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Aster and Hyssop – Pollinator Magnets Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the goals for many gardeners is to have plants blooming in the garden all season. With a little planning, Minnesota native plants can help you fulfill this challenge. But having blooms in your garden all season isn’t just aesthetically pleasing, blooming native flowers are a constant food source for pollinators. This article focuses on two late summer plants loved by pollinators - Asters and Hyssops. Asters Smooth Aster The New England Aster is a common plant for Zone 4. Flowers are lavender to violet and yellow centers 1-2” wide. Flowers bloom on the stem ends in late August through October. The plant flourishes in moist acidic soil. Mature plants have woody stems and fibrous roots. Asters are mostly maintenance free but some mature plants can become top heavy and require support. A general low nitrogen fertilizer will help reduce the green foliage growth and produce more blooms. Trimming buds in late May encourages the growth of a bushy plant that is more stable during heavy wind and rainstorms. Divide the plant every three years to encourage vigorous growth. There are several other native aster species to explore each with different characteristics. They range from tall branching plants to shrubs to ground covers. Flowers are blue to violet or white. Some native aster species are: Purple Dome- Dwarf grows 18-24”, deep purple flowers in late summer Heath aster- Native to MN prairies and woodland edges, compact Smooth Aster – blue-violet flowers on 2-3’ stems, late summer Sky Blue Aster – similar to Smooth Aster but likes dry, sunny site Heart-Leaved Aster - Native to SE MN with white to sky-blue flowers Calico Aster – shade plant with small white flowers and 2-3 tall Aromatic Aster - Native to SE MN. More drought tolerant, late bloomer Big Leaf Aster – shady groundcover with large leaves and tall white flowers Check out this article in Northern Gardener for more information about these asters. Companion plants are goldenrod, grasses, oxeye, obedient plant, and showy tick trefoil. The combinations create a colorful late season pollinator garden. Asters are a colorful bloom in late summer and a critical fresh food source for migrating pollinators. Hyssops Blue Giant Hyssop Minnesota native hyssops (Agastache Foeniculum) are another late summer bloomer and fall pollinator. All plants are native to dry areas throughout Minnesota. Hyssops bloom in late summer-fall and are another valuable nectar source for bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. Anise hyssop, also known as Blue Giant Hyssop or Lavender Hyssop is a pollinator magnet beloved by bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and moths. They have light blue-violet tubular flowers on 2-4’stems. They will grow in full sun to part shade and in dry fields and bloom throughout the summer. This plant is also deer resistant. Hyssop is a lovely addition to the urban garden. The attractive light green lance shaped leaves set the plant apart from other zone 4-8 perennials. All hyssops self-sow but the volunteer plants are easily pulled. Hyssop will grow in a perennial garden or border planting in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil. Hyssop is an herb. Anise hyssop’s scented leaves can be harvested for tea, for salads, and other drinks. A member of the Lemnaceae family, hyssop is a shrub that is also native to SE Europe, Middle East and the region around the Caspian Sea. It has an interesting herbal medicinal history being used as an antiseptic, cough reliever, expectorant, and abortive during medieval time. Other hyssop cultivars include: Golden jubilee- gold-colored leaves & is 20” tall. Alba and snowspire- white-flower spikes on top of 36” stems. Companions to hyssop include goldenrod, black-eyed Susan, and coneflower. Native asters and hyssops are not only a beautiful addition to any garden, they are an essential food source for pollinators; particularly late in the summer season. Sources: ext.umn.edu/native-plants www.webmed.com Steiner, Lynn, D. Landscaping with native plants of Minnesota. MBI Publishing, China, 2005 Northern Gardener Anise Hyssop and Asters Photo Credits: Northern Gardener, Benjamin Vogt (1), Minnesota Wildflowers, Katy Chayka

< Back Cat-Grass Learn how to grow your own! Many cats like a little salad now and then – cat-grass that is. Grass is not a necessity if your cat its eating a well-balanced diet. But cats can enjoy it and grass provides environmental enrichment for an indoor cat. With the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener The reasons cats eat grass are not clear. According to Lori Teller, at Texas A&M University, “[o]ne theory is that cat grass is a source of fiber that can either act as a mild laxative or trigger vomiting[.] When cats lived in the wild, they may have eaten grass to trigger vomiting to rid their stomachs of the non-digestible parts of the prey they ingested. It is also thought that the chlorophyll contained in the grass could serve as a mild pain reliever and help keep the cat’s breath fresh.” Regardless of the scientific reason, with the help of the child in your life, you might want to grow some cat-grass as a treat for your cat. It’s also a fun and easy activity. Kitties are not horticulturists, so left on their own outside, they don’t necessarily distinguish between safe and dangerous plants. [See this list for a helpful list.] But inside, different grasses - rye, oat, wheat, barley, alfalfa, and orchard grass can be grown for cat-grass. Since I have never grown my own cat-grass, I interviewed Brianna Gohde, a Master Gardener from Ramsey County and cat-grass grower. Margie: Where do you get your seed? Brianna: You can buy cat grass seed from most pet supply stores (check the back of the seed packs for grass type(s)) or from reliable seed source catalogs in the “cover crop” or “grains” sections for a specific type. Margie: How do you start cat-grass from seed? Brianna: I treat cat-grass seed the same way I would any other seeds, though I overseed the container so that the plants grow densely. Like with any other plants started from seed, I check the seed pack for seed depth recommendations. I water just enough to keep the soil moist. It’s better to keep it on the dry side to avoid pests. Sticky traps and cats are not a good combination! To keep your cat from knocking over the container, I like to double-pot and use a string to go around both to keep them anchored. The grass grows above the strings, so it doesn’t bother the cat. Margie: Do you have a special set-up to grow it? Brianna: I use generic potting soil and tap water without problems. The grass grows best if it’s in a sunny place. I don’t often put mine under grow lights, but when I have, the grass grows in faster and looks nicer. It takes about two weeks to get tall enough for the cats to be interested in it. Margie: Do you have a favorite variety? Brianna: I have grown wheat, rye and oats. My cats haven’t noticed any difference between the types of grasses. Margie: How long does it last? Brianna: The grass starts looking bad after a couple of weeks of cat attention, but may go as long as a month, with regular care from a human. The cats often lose interest once the grass gets more than 1-foot tall but you can trim the grass down to 6-8” a few times and keep it looking tidy. Some of the grass turns yellow (as older leaves die) and some dies due to overcrowding. Compost it whenever the cat’s attention wavers or it starts looking awful. Hopefully this encourages folks to give it a try. It's a cheap thrill and an easy holiday present for kitties. Try growing this treat for your cat! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1), Brianna Gohde (2,3)

< Back Snow Mold! It’s Not About Putting Snow in a Mold As the snow begins to melt, you may start to see a grayish, and sometimes pinkish, circular straw-like, matted patch in your yard, especially near the street where snow was piled up for what may have seemed like decades to some but was only a few months. The spot can also have a “webby” fungus appearance. If you have this phenomenon in your yard, then click on this link to learn about snow mold and what you can do to prevent it from happening again next Spring. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Snow Mold is a fungus that develops and thrives when early, deep snow covers the ground prior to the ground being frozen. Snow mold can continue to grow once the snow has melted in the Spring as long as the conditions remain wet and cold. There are 2 types of snow mold found in Minnesota: Gray snow mold produces sclerotia which look like dark, hard round bodies on the grass blade. Pink snow mold produces pink-colored spores and fuzzy mycelium. Areas of your lawn that are affected with snow mold will generally take longer to green up in the Spring but usually come back to normal and therefore, is not usually too serious. In a bad weather year, it can, however, kill the grass. If you want to “spring” into Action this Spring: You can choose to break up and spread the larger snow piles around in the affected areas. This will help the snow melt faster and dry out quicker. You can gently rake the area to create a faster drying process and prevent further mold growth. Preparation to avoid snow mold altogether must be done in the Fall with these easy steps: If your yard is prone to snow mold, skip a Fall nitrogen fertilizer which the fungus thrives on. Continue to mow your lawn until the grass stops growing. Cut grass to 2 inches (but not shorter) to prevent the grass from matting and allowing mold to grow. Rake up leaves If you have certain areas in your yard where snow mold is a problem, consider a snow fence to reduce large piles of snow. While snow mold can be a little unsightly in the Spring, a few actions can help alleviate the problem quickly! Source: University of Minnesota Extension: “Snow Mold Prevention Begins in Autumn”, October 20, 2023 Photo Credit: University of MN Extension (1,2)