< Back Tomato Problems Homegrown tomatoes are the highlight of a summer garden. In this article you will learn some very helpful tips to achieve the best possible harvest. Janice Gestner, Master Gardener Tomatoes (Solanium lycopersicum) are among the most commonly grown vegetables by gardeners. The joy of using vitamin-rich, low-calorie tomatoes in fresh summer salads, in sauces, and many more ways make it one of the most versatile vegetables grown. The easiest way to avoid tomato problems is by giving them the site, space, and conditions they want as a plant that originated in South America. Tomatoes along with its Nightshade family members, including eggplants and peppers, love the sun-filled days with temperatures between 65°F and 95°F. They love well-drained, fertile soil, pH numbers between 5.5-7, mulches to regulate soil temperatures and moisture, and plenty of space. Cages, stakes and careful pruning help keep plants clean and less prone to disease. Consistent watering until tomatoes are ripening is also important to overall plant health. Gardeners who carefully follow all of the growing tips for tomato plants will avoid many of the disease and insect issues that can be problems for tender tomato plants. However, sometimes climate conditions, gardening errors, insects and other problems happen. The University of Minnesota Extension site titled “Tomato Disorders” at https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/tomato-disorders provides information about possible disorders. A summary of the information found on this site includes the following: Disorders may be caused by varietal choices. If gardeners have provided good management, trying different tomatoes varieties might be the best answer for the location. Seed catalogs can give information on disease resistant varieties. Blossom-end rot is an issue where fruit has a tan/black flattened spot on the end of the fruit. This is usually caused by inconsistent watering or possibly too heavy rains. The plant has a calcium deficiency that is not usually caused by soil deficiency but the inability for the plant to take up calcium through the roots. Gardeners should remove all tomatoes with the disorder because they will never develop correctly. New fruit coming on the tomato plant may be okay if watering is carefully controlled. Blossom end rot Sunscald can be seen on tomatoes that have a pale yellow or white side surface. It is caused by too much sun, the result of leaf loss due to over-pruning, insect damage or disease damage. The spots can be an entry point for decay, and tomatoes should be picked immediately since they will not develop properly. Continue to harvest developing tomatoes. Sun scald Early blight is caused by either of two pathogens called Alternaria tomatophila and Alternaria solani . They attack the plant either by being blown in on the wind, splash up from contaminated soil, humidity, wet weather, or even from human contact. They usually start at brown spots on the lower part of the plant. Safe practices to avoid the contamination include watering low to the ground and adding mulch around the plants to avoid soil splash up. Prune away any leaves on the low part of the plant that you see with brown spots. It is okay to remove up to a third of the bottom leaves if necessary. Be sure to wash your hands and clippers to avoid passing the fungus on to other plants. Early blight Growth cracks circling the stems on tomatoes may happen because of fast growth. Heavy rains and high temperatures can also cause these cracks. Regulating watering is the best way to try to avoid the condition. Tomatoes can be used if you cut off the cracking area and use the rest of the tomato. Growth cracks Healthy tomato plants depend upon us to provide the best growing conditions we can provide as described above. Remember to rotate tomato crops to other sunny sections of the garden to avoid leftover pathogen and tomato problems from past years. Last, sometimes gardeners do everything correctly, but weather conditions may still control the harvest outcome. There is always a new year to try again. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii): A Midwestern Tall Grass Icon Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Beginning this month, Dakota County Master Gardener Jim Lakin, begins a series on native prairie perennials. He begins with a prairie star grass – Big Bluestem. This tall, hardy grass is found throughout North America and puts on an elegant show in the garden. Learn more about how and why to grow this iconic, prairie grass. Over the past half-year we’ve been talking about perennial native vines, highlighting some of the great Midwestern twiners. For the rest of the year, I’d like to switch focus to a group of Midwestern plants that are iconic to our native landscape--prairie perennials. As you probably have guessed if you follow this column, perennials are the most diverse group of plants in the Midwest. They are classified into three major groups: Prairie, Woodland and Wetland, depending on their preferred environment. Given the warming planet we live in, we’ll take a look at those guys that do best in full sun in upland prairies or meadows. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension Big bluestem Andropogon gerardii was one of the first flora to greet European settlers as they pressed across the vast plains of the Midwest, being one of the grasses of the tallgrass prairie. It is native to most of North America from the Rockies to the Atlantic seaboard. It is hardy throughout the Midwest, suitable for zones 4 through 9. One caution though when you are purchasing seed or plants. Make sure that you have a variety from the region in which you intend to plant it. Southern varieties tend not to flower in northern regions, having a different climatic rhythm. So, when purchasing seed, it is best to turn to a Northern Midwestern nursery. Big bluestem does best in full sun, as we have said, but will get along in partial shade. It prefers rich loam but will grow in poorer, drier soils albeit to a lesser height. Once established, it is remarkably drought resistant. Also, it has few pests and requires little care. It usually is easiest to grow from seed. Some recommend cutting back the old stems in late winter, before new growth appears. Although I prefer to leave my plantings alone. It’s mostly a matter of aesthetics. Photo credit: Missouri Botanical Garden Big bluestem works best in natural landscapes or in prairie restorations. It readily reseeds so with time it will form dense plantings. It will grow to 3 to 8 feet, depending on soil conditions and moisture. Keep in mind that big bluestem will compete successfully with other prairie plants, crowding them out in a couple of seasons, if densely planted. A stand of big bluestem can be quite elegant. The tall flowering stems are usually topped with a triple inflorescence. This three-pronged flowering resembles a Turkey Foot, thus giving the grass it’s alternate name. A steel blue to purple stem supports the flowering. Come fall, you can expect a warm gold to orange-russet coloration, perfect for harvest home! Photo credit: Missouri Botanical Garden

< Back Guarding the Gardener: Cold Injury Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Most Minnesotans spend the month of January by a nice warm fire, or at least by a nice warm TV. Not so, the avid gardener! There are things to do, last minute trimming, tipping a floribunda rose that you missed in October, cleaning up all those dead stalks that didn’t get clipped. But working outside in Minnesota in January can lead to cold injury. An unwary gardener can easily lose bits and pieces of his anatomy out in the yard if he's not respectful of the cold. Read this article to help yourself to keep safe in the winter “garden.” Most Minnesotans spend the month of January by a nice warm fire, or at least by a nice warm TV. Not so, the avid gardener! There are things to do, last minute trimming, tipping a floribunda rose that you missed in October, cleaning up all those dead stalks that didn’t get clipped. Spring is just around the corner, so get to work! Unfortunately, weather that's good for winter gardening isn’t necessarily good for winter gardeners. Of course, I'm talking about cold injury, something that’s always a potential winter danger up here in the Northern Midwest. An unwary gardener can easily lose bits and pieces of his anatomy out in the yard if he's not respectful of the cold. Not all of us have the luxury of a heated greenhouse. Typically, you're out late in the afternoon, trying to get just a few garden chores done. The sun is waning and the wind is picking up on a frigid stretch of garden. That's an ideal set-up for freezing some part of your anatomy--frostbite! The mildest form of frostbite is frostnip , something that almost all of us have experienced. First, your skin pales or turns red and feels very cold. Keep trying to clip off all those “witches’ brooms” and you start feeling prickling and numbness in the exposed skin. As you finally head back to the house and heat up, your skin warms and you may feel pain and tingling. Frostnip doesn't permanently damage the skin but it sure can be uncomfortable! If you just have to get all those chores done, no matter what and your cold exposure increases you will progress to " superficial frostbite ." The skin that was previously red from frostnip turns a pale white. As you rewarm, the skin may look mottled, blue or purple. You may notice stinging, burning and swelling. A fluid-filled blister sometimes appears 24 to 36 hours later. With superficial frostbite you could have some permanent tissue damage. If you stay out working in the bitter cold even longer, you can progress to severe (deep) frostbite . Here the skin and underlying tissues freezes solid. The exposed finger, toe or nose becomes numb. All sense of cold, pain, or discomfort is lost. The joints don't bend. The muscles don't work. Again, blisters may pop up 24 to 48 hours later. The underlying skin then turns black and hard as tissue dies. You're in big trouble! If you are experiencing anything more severe than frostnip, you should seek medical attention. Of course, there are a number of things you can do to protect yourself from getting into that situation. First of all, wear suitable clothing. That seems like a no-brainer, but how often do you go outside to do chores that “will just take a minute” and stay an hour? The risk of frostbite increases dramatically in temperatures below 5 degrees Fahrenheit. Wind chills below - 16 degrees Fahrenheit can cause severe frostbite in less than 30 minutes. A number of things can increase your chances of getting frostbite. Alcohol or drugs, smoking, dehydration, mental or physical exhaustion all lower your resistance to frostbite. Being at high altitude reduces oxygen supply to tissues and allows damage to occur more easily. Keep that in mind if you are taking a winter vacation to the ski slopes. One final caution: if you or someone with you begins to experience intense shivering, slurred speech, loss of coordination or drowsiness, get out of the cold fast and seek medical attention. These are signs of hypothermia--a lowering of your body core temperature. If that continues, loss of consciousness, heart rhythm disturbance and death can follow. All that “getting ready for spring” stuff can wait ‘till spring! Photo Credits: Wikimedia Commons (1), vriethael.deviantart.com (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back A Recipe for Your Early Vegetables Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Warm weather, warm spice, warm dinner! It’s wonderfully warm out and Joy Johnson’s garden is in all its glory. Zucchini, yellow squash, early tomatoes, spinach and sweet peppers are starting to ripen. It’s time to cook up a delicious turkey curry, with a homemade blend of spices. The fragrance will whisk you away to far off India. It’s a warm way to include all your early vegetables or farmers market purchases in one dish. To cool off, add a minty fruit salad. It’s wonderfully warm out, my garden is in all its glory. It’s time to cook up a delicious turkey curry, with a homemade blend of spices. This makes a pot full, so invite the neighbors or grandkids for a mid-summer garden meal. I included turkey as the main protein source, but you could also use chicken, pork or tofu. Brown the tofu after cutting it into 1-inch cubes and add it at the end, stirring gently to warm through. It pairs well with a hearty bread. I made whole wheat sour dough, the recipe for which I’ve shared in a past issue. Turkey Curry Ingredients : 2 Tablespoons peanut oil 1 white onion chopped 4 minced garlic cloves 2 Tablespoon minced fresh ginger 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander ½ teaspoon turmeric ¼ teaspoon cayenne, or to taste 1 cup chopped tomatoes 1 cup chopped zucchini 1 cup chopped yellow squash 2 sliced carrots ½ cup each chopped yellow, red and orange sweet pepper 2 – 3 cups cooked chopped turkey, chicken, pork or tofu 13.5 oz. can of coconut milk 2 cups chopped spinach leaves Salt Procedure : Heat oil in a large saucepan or skillet; add onion, garlic and ginger and cook until they begin to soften, about 2-3 minutes. Add cumin, coriander, turmeric and cayenne and cook, stirring, until spices are fragrant, about another minute. Add all the chopped vegetables, except the tomatoes and the spinach. Stir constantly until slightly cooked - about 5-7 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices and coconut milk. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper, simmer for another 8 – 10 minutes or until tomatoes break down. Add spinach and turkey to pan and continue to cook until spinach wilts and turkey is warmed through another 3-5 minutes. Summer Minty Melon Salad A fresh fruit salad is a great side dish. This minty melon salad is a colorful and tasty delight. It hints of a Greek influence with the cucumbers, mint and, of course, crumbled feta cheese. I must confess that I don’t grow my own melons. My garden is too small for the vines and the pests always beat me to them, so I gave up. My hat’s off to you, if you successfully grow melons of any sort – make sure to try this recipe that highlights their juicy sweetness. Ingredients : 4 cups cubed mixed melon 3 cucumbers, seeded and thinly sliced ½ cup fresh basil, sliced if leaves are large 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil Juice of one lemon or lime 2 Tablespoons raw honey 2 Tablespoons fresh mint leaves, chopped 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh chives ¼ to ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Pink Himalayan salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled ¼ cup toasted pistachios or pine nuts Process : Toasting the pistachios is an extra step, but worth it – it emphasizes the warm flavors. Place them in a dry skillet over medium-low heat and stir constantly until they’re fragrant and a shade or two darker, 3-5 minutes. Watch closely, they can go from perfectly toasted to black and very burned in a flash! (speaking from experience here). In a large serving bowl, combine the melon, cucumbers, and basil, gently toss to mix. To make the vinaigrette, in a medium bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, honey, mint and chives. Season with red pepper flakes, salt and pepper. Drizzle half the vinaigrette over the salad, gently tossing to coat. Add the feta and pistachios, then drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over the top. Garnish the salad with more basil before serving. Serve immediately! Photo credits: Joy Johnson ( 1-4)

< Back Sustainable Gardening Clean Up Practices Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener As the summer growing season comes to an end, we in the gardening community know our work is not quite done. With the end of the season comes the start of the next, and before you know it, it's already time to clean up your garden. Before you start this necessary process, consider how a few simple sustainable practices can help support your garden’s long-term health while helping local systems thrive. Why do sustainable practices matter? They can help reduce your overall garden waste. They address some of the environmental impacts of conventional cleanup. They improve soil health. They help with biodiversity in your area, bugs and critters alike. Leave the Leaves (Strategically) Mulch . One of the best things you can do with your fall leaf litter is to turn it into useful mulch. Mulching is the process of breaking down dried fall leaves into small parts. This helps leaves break down easier and can promote soil and lawn health. Mulch can be used for insulating flower beds and it helps key nutrients return into the soil. Mulching leaves can be done with specific lawnmowers or electric leaf shredders, but there are also some easy to do free alternatives. You can stomp them in a trash bag, use gardening shears, or even run them over with a car . One recent study from the University of Wisconsin found that using 2-5 inches of mulched leaves for winter lawn cover resulted in greener grass throughout the summer and resulted in fewer weeds than unmulched leaves . Another benefit of leaving leaf litter strategically around your yard is the shelter they provide beneficial insects like pollinators . Multiple insects like bees, butterflies, and moths use remnants of your garden to overwinter in. Leaving some areas with leaf piles, dead plant stems, and even tree bark can provide beneficial insects with the necessary cover to survive the winter. Cut Plants Back Selectively It can be tempting to cut back your plants (perennials and shrubs) every fall, but leaving some plant material standing, like dead plant stems, leaves, and even flowers, can provide additional nutrients to your gardens. In addition, leaving flower heads behind is beneficial not just to your garden’s bug population but the local birds as well. Coneflowers, sunflowers, and other prairie flowers provide seeds to birds throughout the winter. Leaving them up can provide them with a good food source, and a habitat source for small creatures. Also, if you do need to cut these plants back, consider cutting the top two-thirds down; some insects specifically overwinter in the bottom one-third of the plant stalk . However, it is always recommended to cut dead or diseased plants to remove any infestation entirely. Pollinator Compost Smarter Composting piles are a good way to turn plant materials and more, into usable mulch that can provide great nutrients back to your plants! Composting is the process of letting natural occurring processes break down plant and yard waste resulting in a great soil amendment or mulch. Besides grass and leaves, many other organic materials are compostable, such as: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Nonwoody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds Taking the time to build or buy a structure to start a compost pile can produce faster and more thorough composting, getting more benefits from your garden leftovers. While composting can seem hard to learn, this guide from the University of Minnesota, can provide a better understanding of how to start your own! Reuse Garden Waste Creatively If your garden cleanup consists of more wood-based debris, or you have any woody invasives, consider using those leftover materials to either make a brush pile for smaller animals or make a natural trellis! Making a brush pile can be great as it provides natural protection for small animals , such as songbirds, small mammals, and even foxes or skunks ! In addition, as the brush decays it will also provide great nutrients for insects, which are a great food source for other animals like birds and small mammals . Small brush piles stacked strategically could even be used as a good shelter for small saplings from deer ! To build one, start with larger branches or logs as a base and then add smaller branches on top. Besides brush piles, larger branches and bendable sticks can be used to make a trellis for any of your climbing garden plants ! This offers a fun DIY opportunity to make use of every part of your garden! These good gardening practices, as you clean up your garden, can make a big difference for your local ecosystem. This fall, bring your garden into balance with nature by trying a few of these tricks yourself! Photo Credits: https://atlaslawnandsnow.com (1,2), https://source.roboflow.com (3), https://images.rawpixel.com (4)

< Back Blending Annuals and Perennials for Continuous Summer Bloom Gardens built on perennials alone can shine brilliantly for a few weeks, then settle into quieter stretches. The solution isn’t to abandon perennials, but to partner them with annuals in a way that keeps the show going from late spring to frost. By layering the strengths of both—perennials for structure and rhythm, annuals for reliable, season-long color—you can create a garden that never feels finished but never feels empty either. Julie Deane, Dakota County Master Gardener backyard garden of mixed perennials and annuals; Credit: Julie Deane Understanding the Rhythm of Bloom Perennials are the backbone of many gardens, but they bloom in waves. Some peak in late spring, others in midsummer, and a final group carries into fall. Even the longest-blooming perennials have natural pauses. Annuals, on the other hand, are marathon performers. Once planted, they flower continuously until frost, largely indifferent to the seasonal ebb and flow around them. When you design with both in mind, you create a relay: as one plant finishes its moment, another seamlessly takes over. Color with Intention A successful mixed planting doesn’t rely on randomness. Start with a defined color palette—whether it’s soft pastels, vibrant contrasts, or a relaxed cottage mix—and repeat those colors throughout the space. Don’t overlook foliage. Silvery leaves, chartreuse highlights, and deep burgundy tones provide continuity even when flowers ebb, acting as a visual thread that ties the garden. Cherry Wave petunias and rudbeckia daisies; Credit Julie Deane Designing for a Natural Look The most effective mixed plantings avoid rigid patterns. Instead of isolating annuals in separate beds, tuck them into open pockets among perennials. This interplanting creates a cohesive, layered look and prevents the garden from feeling segmented. And always plant with growth in mind. What looks sparse in early spring will fill in quickly. Leave space for air circulation and mature size—your plants will reward you with better health and stronger performance. Maintaining the Momentum A continuous display does require a bit of attention. Deadheading encourages many annuals—and some perennials—to keep blooming. Or choose plants that don’t require deadheading, like wave petunias and rudbeckia daisies in the pictures. Regular fertilizing supports the heavy flowering demands of annuals, which tend to need more nutrients than their perennial counterparts. Consistent watering, especially in mixed beds, ensures neither group is stressed during hot weather. By midseason, don’t hesitate to edit. Remove plants that are past their prime and replace them with fresh annuals. This simple refresh can extend the garden’s vibrancy well into fall. garden of mixed perennials and annuals; Credit: www.storage.googleapis.com Stretching Your Budget A beautiful garden doesn’t have to be an expensive one. Invest in high-quality, reliable perennials—they’ll form the backbone of your design for years to come. Annuals, meanwhile, can often be grown from seed at a fraction of the cost, offering abundant color for minimal investment. Some will even self-seed, returning unexpectedly in future seasons and adding to the garden’s evolving character. Dividing established perennials is another easy way to expand your planting over time, filling more space without additional cost. phlox seedling; Credit: www.sowrightseeds.com Designing for Continuity A garden designed for continuous color isn’t about achieving a single perfect moment. It’s about creating a sequence—one that unfolds gradually, shifts with the season, and remains engaging from beginning to end. When annuals and perennials are thoughtfully combined, the garden becomes less about peaks and pauses, and more about flow. And that’s where the real beauty lies—not in perfection, but in continuity.

< Back Choose Outdoor Furniture Wisely Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener It may still be cold outside but March does officially usher in spring and Minnesotans can finally believe that warmer weather will arrive again. We begin to anticipate spending time out of doors - tending to the garden but also sitting, eating and entertaining outside. So now is the time to assess your outdoor furniture needs and wants. Are you buying outdoor furniture for the first time or do you need to replace your old pieces? There are many different types of outdoor furniture at different price points, so it is worth spending some time understanding how to buy smartly. This article provides an overview of furniture types and materials plus buying tips. It may still be cold outside but March does officially usher in spring and Minnesotans can finally believe that warmer weather will arrive again. We begin to anticipate spending time out of doors - tending to the garden but also sitting, eating and entertaining outside. So now is the time to assess your outdoor furniture needs and wants. Are you buying outdoor furniture for the first time or do you need to replace your old pieces? There are many different types of outdoor furniture at different price points, so it is worth spending some time understanding how to buy smartly. This article provides an overview of furniture types and materials plus buying tips. Consider your Needs When shopping for outdoor furniture, you may fall in love with a table set or lounging chairs on display. But will they fit your outdoor space and your needs? I t’s crucial to measure your outdoor space. This allows you to make good decisions about the size and arrangement of furniture. Also think about how you plan to use your space. Do you need a large dining set for entertaining, a deep-seated sectional for lounging, a small bistro set for morning coffee on a balcony or will children or pets be using the furniture? Let’s look at the categories of furniture: For seating, Adirondack chairs, benches, outdoor sofas, and chaise lounges are all designed for comfort and relaxation. Tables range from small bistro tables to large dining tables. Dining sets will include a table and chairs. Loungers and hammocks - loungers are ideal for sunbathing, while hammocks offer a more relaxed experience. Structural Material is Key The frame is the backbone of any piece of outdoor furniture. For longevity and low maintenance, some woods and aluminum stand out as the best choice, although steel furniture and furniture with a steel frame - like many rattans - are also good choices. Look for solid welds on metal frames; mortise-and-tenon joints in wood furniture. While style is important, prioritizing structure and comfort is key when selecting your furniture. Opt for cushioned seating, ergonomic designs, and weather-resistant materials to ensure that your outdoor space is attractive and functional. Outdoor furniture comes in a number of different materials. Choosing which materials for your furniture is very important. You probably don’t want to spend money on furniture that will fade, crack or rust after one season. You may pay more at the beginning but it is generally more cost effective in the long run to buy outdoor furniture in materials that will last, hopefully several years, with little to no maintenance. That being said, affordability is also a consideration and some cheaper materials are better than others. Let’s examine some common materials. Wood : Wood offers a classic, natural aesthetic. Teak is a popular, durable, and weather-resistant choice. Teak handles freeze-thaw cycles without cracking. A teak dining set may last 30-50 years because its natural oils repel water and resist rot. On the other hand, teak costs more upfront. Cedar and eucalyptus are also good choices at a medium price point. Cedar contains natural oils that resist insects and decay but needs sealing every 2-3 years to prevent splitting. Eucalyptus also provides good weather resistance. Both of these woods will fade to gray without regular maintenance. Pine, oak and other softwoods should be avoided because they absorb moisture more quickly and will rot quickly. Metal : Aluminum is lightweight and rust-resistant. Powder-coated aluminum is designed to hold up in extreme temperatures, its powder-coated seal protecting the aluminum from moisture exposure from melting snow or frost. It also resists scratches and UV damage while staying cooler in direct sunlight. Steel - marine-grade and stainless steel provide superior strength and are durable enough for cold, snowy climates like ours. Steel needs powder coating or paint to prevent rust spots. Wrought iron is sturdy and has a durable classic look. However, it is prone to rust if the coating is chipped or not maintained. It also gets hot in the sun and is heavier to move. Synthetic materials Rattan : Natural or synthetic is a popular choice because it is lightweight yet strong and durable. Synthetic rattan is often rust-proof and weather-resistant. HDPE-high-density polyethylene (recycled plastics) looks similar to wood but is a leader for durability. It resists moisture, insects and UV damage. Further, it doesn’t need painting, sealing or staining and can last 20-30 years. But HDPE can be heavy and less cushioned than other options. Moreover, the initial cost can be high and it can get hot in direct sunlight. Composite materials blend plastic resin with wood fibers – similar to decking materials. Composites resist moisture and do not splinter but heat up more than wood in the sun. They can also retain moisture that expands when frozen, eventually causing surface cracks. Plastic is an affordable and low-maintenance option that is often very weather-resistant. Composite material Adirondack chair Fabric is Not Just About Looks Cushions and fabrics are also important for comfort and appearance. Fabric : While fabric adds color, picking a lounge set or chair made using durable fabric should be the priority. Look for materials that are specially designed for outdoors: fabrics that are UV-resistant, fade-resistant, solution-dyed with heavy-duty stitching and easy to clean. Cheap outdoor fabrics may fade in one season while quality materials may last for years. Water resistant fabrics are essential for fast drying to avoid mold, mildew and stains. “Solution-dyed” fabrics deliver the best value. These fabrics resist fading for years. Acrylic fabrics resist water, mildew and fading, are soft to the touch and clean easily. Olefin also resists water and mildew but is less expensive. Avoid cotton, linen and cotton blends which absorb moisture and support mold growth. Polyester can fade quickly and retain water. Foam : The champion of outdoor seating is foam. Quick-Dry Foam was created especially for outdoor use. Designed to dry fast (2-4 hours) if wet - stopping mold. This type of foam maintains its comfort and shape. water resistant fabric Choosing outdoor furniture can be a complicated business, but the information above can help you choose the right furniture for you and your outdoor space. References https://bluesky-outdoor.com/the-outdoor-edit/10-types-of-patio-furniture-explained/ https://extension.umn.edu/4-h-projects/4-h-home-environment-project https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=outdoor+furniture+how+to+buyhttps:// modernstyle.co.nz/buy-outdoor-furniture/outdoor-furniture-buying-guide-what-to-look-for-before-you-buy/ https://wrmth.ca/fr/blogs/blog/best-materials-for-outdoor-furniture Photo Credit: Rawpixel.com (1), AAA State of Play; All Creative Commons (2), Negative Space; All Creative Commons (3)

< Back Explore the Virtues of Wild Ginger for your Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Many gardeners love a good cookbook for the bounty we grow. But what about recipes? Now that we’ve rounded the corner from April to May, it’s off to the races, back to the garden centers to do some window shopping and more often than not, bring home a new addition (or 20). As I continue to develop my garden, now entering its 4th growing season, I reflect back on what has worked, what can be removed and gaps I need to fill. This season I am focusing on ground covers, specifically Wild Ginger, which can be added as a beneficial plant, address a difficult site, and create a point of interest in the garden. Note - Wild Ginger is inedible and should not be confused with the Ginger that you might find in a grocery store. This Minnesota native plant has soft, heart-shaped leaves with a smaller heart-shaped cutout where the leaf meets a fuzzy stem. Wild Ginger will grow approximately 8 inches in height, making it perfect to be placed in front of leggy plants and has a spreading nature of approximately 15 inches. Hardy to Zone 2, this tough plant can make it through some of the worst winters and come out the other side healthy and thriving. Wild Ginger does well in both shade and part shade locations making this plant optimal below the canopies of more mature trees or in north facing gardens. Gardeners should use caution though, if planting in a space that receives a lot direct sunlight, as the leaves could burn. Wild Ginger can tolerate some drought but prefers moist, not wet, well-draining soil. A true “set it and forget it” plant, pruning will not be necessary unless you are clearing away dieback or want to create a more compact spread. Wild Ginger is a slow growing plant that spreads underground, through rhizomes. In the early spring, shallow lateral root systems make division and transplanting easy. This versatile plant is used as a unique ground cover that provides many solutions and benefits in a garden. Best Suited Spaces Rain Garden Shade Garden Woodland Garden Native Plant Garden Problem Solver Erosion control on slopes Ground Cover Weed Suppressant Early Pollinator The first thing that caught my eye when I considered Wild Ginger was its attractive spreading nature. If there is one thing gardeners are not fond of, it’s weeds. This workhorse plant will push out competing non-native, invasive spreading plants and weeds, giving you more time to enjoy your garden and less time fussing over uninvited guests. At first glance, you might not suspect that Wild Ginger contributes to early pollination, but it does! Hidden beneath the leaves of this ground cover plant, you will discover a brownish purple jug shaped flower that sits near the base of the plant. This flower can attract some lesser-known pollinators, such as ants and pollinator flies which are looking for food sources as the snow begins to melt. Diversity is the key to a healthy garden. Consider adding some Wild Ginger to your landscape, it will not disappoint, and be sure to check out our article on Gardening in Shade to discover some other shade loving ground cover options. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1) & Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Wisconsin Extension (2)

< Back How to Share Your Plants Safely Sharing plants from our gardens is a common and gratifying practice among gardeners. But in these times, we must know how to share plants safely. Safe from what? Jumping worms have become a significant and difficult problem for Minnesota gardens. This particular type of worm has the ability to ravage your garden soil and weaken or kill your plants. This article will help you learn more about this pest and show you how you can still share your plants safe from the spread of jumping worms. Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The Dakota County Master Gardener Plant Sale is scheduled soon. As we plan to share the lovely garden flowers abound in Dakota County, we will be mindfully bare rooting the plants before donating to the sale . If you are planning to share plants from your garden with others this summer, bare rooting them is the safe way to do it. Why bare root?! The goal of bare rooting plants is to prevent the spread of jumping worms, which are an invasive species of worms in the United States. The worms can produce significant destruction in your garden by severely impacting the soil structure of your garden and reducing or destroying plant growth. Read this article from the University of Minnesota Extension to learn more about jumping worms in Minnesota. Prevention is key to limiting the spread of invasive jumping worms. Since soil, plant roots and mulch are the common materials most likely to spread the jumping worms, you can play an integral role in minimizing jumping worm issues. Note that in the spring, jumping worms are either cocoons or juveniles. The cocoons are the size and color of soil aggregates so they are difficult to see. Juvenile jumping worms may look like other juvenile earthworms at this point, without the telltale cream color collar, so they are hard to find or identify. These worms and juvenile worms can easily hide inside the roots of your plant. You can still share your plants and dramatically reduce the spread of jumping worms by taking steps to “bare root” your plants. The remainder of this article will provide step-by-step instructions about how to do so. How to Bare Root Your Plants Before sharing your beautiful garden plants, please take the following steps to bare root your donations. SUPPLIES: Drop cloth for work area; your plant; deep tray or wash tub; chopsticks or bamboo skewer; 4-5 five gallon buckets, with all but one half full of water; sheets of newspaper; paper towel; sterile soil; twine; label; 5 gallon elastic-top paint strainer and a gallon sized plastic bag. DIRECTIONS : 1. Prepare the work area with a dropcloth. Take the plant out of its pot over the deep tray/washtub. Using the chopsticks/skewer or your hands, completely remove all the dirt directly into the tray. 2. Rinse the roots in 2-3 of the water buckets until clean. 3. Examine the roots to ensure no dirt or potential jumping worm cocoons remain. 4. Position one sheet of newspaper into a diamond shape. Set a paper towel in the middle of the newspaper. 5. Lay the plant on the paper towel. Sprinkle sterile soil on the roots. 6. Wrap the bottom of the newspaper up on the roots and dirt. Fold in both sides of the newspaper over the roots. Tie the packet with twine. 7. Attach a label with the plant’s name to the twine. Write the plant’s name on the newspaper, too. 8. Put the tied packet into a bucket of clean water (ie., a bucket of water not used to rinse the roots) to hydrate it initially, removing it after soaked. Water the packet daily. 9. Return the dirt from the washtub to the old plant pot. Put the dirt back where it came from. 10. Pull the elastic paint strainer over the empty bucket. Dump everything collected in the other 5 gallon buckets (that you used to rinse off the plant’s dirt) into the empty bucket. Remove the strainer and the strained material into a gallon sized plastic bag. Seal the bag and discard it in the trash. Tip the bucket to empty the water into the area where the plant originated. Clean the dropcloth to prevent inadvertent spread of the worms/cocoons. NOTE : Since no earthworms are native to Minnesota, drop any worms found while bare rooting into a plastic bag, seal it and put it in the trash. Do not compost. With a little practice, you’ll get the hang of bare rooting. A practice well worth it to keep your garden healthy. Resources Bare Root Instructions Credit to Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Video instructions from Dakota County Master Gardeners. Included in this video is another video by Julia Vanatta. Special credit must be given to her. Without her research and demonstration classes this article could not have been written. Julia promotes sustainable gardening as a volunteer for Wild Ones Twin Cities. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3), Longfield Gardens (from Creative Commons licenses) (1)

< Back Top Ten Reasons for Choosing Purple for Your Garden Tom Molitor, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Color, in flowers or vegetables, is one of many reasons we appreciate our gardens. There are so many different colors and shades of colors to choose from when planning our gardens. In this entertaining article, ten reasons to choose purple plants are explored. Yes, purple plants are beautiful, but this article encourages you to think deeper and more expansively about why you should appreciate them – and plant them - in your garden. Color has a tremendous influence on our well-being. Colors are associated with season change, our favorite sports teams, our alma mater colors, fashion, music, art and so many more. They bring joy and happiness into our lives. Colors provide us with images of the past, of the present and even the future. Whether it be in grade school, high school, college or beyond, a commonly asked question is “what is your favorite color?” Each of us makes choices every day based on colors, even shades of colors. We choose colors based on our own preferences or due to our emotional state or on occasion we might make a color decision based on systemic thought, or even based on scientific reasoning. In Minnesota the color purple is associated, for many, with the Minnesota Vikings. After a disappointing season we can put the Vikings purple clothing in the back of the closet for a few months and concentrate on other reasons to celebrate purple - our plants for example! As we plan our gardens let us consider reasons to plant purple flowers and purple vegetables for 2026. My goal is to persuade you to choose purple for your plants and vegetables. If you have not been convinced by the end of this article to choose purple , you have made me blue. Provided below is a top ten list of both scientific and non-scientific reasons for choosing purple flowers and vegetables. Some of the reasons may surprise you! 10 Variety and diversity : so many shades of purple exist - violet, periwinkle, and lavender - to name just a few. Whether you prefer dark colors, light colors, colored leaves, colored flowers, colored roots or rhizomes, purple has them all. Photo by Gayle Bergevin 9 An impressive history in purple : it is a history of elegance, royalty, spirituality and sophistication. Purple has historically been linked to royalty and wealth, with expensive purple dyes being a status symbol. Purple dyes historically came from expensive natural sources like the murex sea snail (Tyrian purple) and, importantly, plants. Plants whose roots and berries have been used for purple dyes include: Alkanet ( Alkanna tinctoria ): the roots produce a strong red/purple dye, particularly for oils and textiles; Elderberry ( Sambucus nigra ), berries produce lavender to deep purple shades; Pokeberry ( Phytolacca americana ): yields shades from deep rose to mahogany-purple; Whortleberry/Blaeberry ( Vaccinium myrtillus ), blue-purple berries produce lavender colors Logwood ( Haematoxylum campechianum ) a flowering tree produces a deep purple dye. 8 Medicinal value : Purple fruits and vegetables contain compounds called anthocyanins, pigments in foods ranging from that royal hue – anywhere from deep red-orange to striking violet to beautiful blue. Anthocyanins are known for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and protective health benefits, including supporting heart, brain, and eye health, and potentially slowing aging and cancer growth . Their health value stems from protecting cells from oxidative damage. Plants that contain anthocyanins are also better protected against damage from sunlight. Several purple herbs possess significant medicinal value including - Echinacea (purple coneflower), Self-Heal, and Purple Dead Nettle , which are often used in teas, tinctures, or salves. 7 Uniqueness and Individuality : Purple stands out from the crowd, representing a desire to be noticed and express individuality. Whether it is a vegetable garden or a flower garden— purple is striking, has inherent beauty and draws upon your senses. Photo by Gayle Bergevin 6 Purple conjures up references to literature, to music, to theater . “The Color Purple,” by Alice Walker, was a remarkable book, movie and theater production. Do we have comparable references with green and yellow colors? One of the most influential musicians from the state of Minnesota was Prince. Purple was his signature color, as was his most popular song - Purple Rain . Consider playing the song Purple Rain when you are planting purple flowers this spring. It’s unclear if the plant will benefit but the gardener certainly will. 5 Children prefer Purple : Children are often drawn to purple because of its vibrant and attention-grabbing nature, its association with fun and imagination, and its ability to inspire creativity and spark imagination. 4 Spirituality and Mysticism : Purple is frequently linked to spirituality and the mystical. Many spiritual practices incorporating purple due to its meditative properties. Who doesn’t appreciate a flower garden (with purple flowers, of course) for its meditative properties. 3 Calming and Balancing : Purple is believed to have a calming effect on the mind and nerves, promoting mental balance and stability. Shades like lavender are particularly effective for relaxation and mental rest. For example, Lilacs ( Syringa vulgaris ) and/or Lavender ( Lavandula ). Photo by Gayle Bergevin 2 Pollinators love purple . Bees and other pollinators are highly attracted to purple. Watch a pollinator garden for bees’ preferences; purple flowers are generally preferred over that of green and yellow. 1 There are many beautiful purple plants to choose from. In sum, Purple is widely considered a fun, vibrant color that combines the calming stability of blue with the energetic power of red . It is used to spark imagination in learning environments and brings a cheerful, whimsical feel to everyday life. So too, do purple flowers and purple vegetables bring such emotions and fun to your garden. A few suggestions for planting purple vegetables: the royalty of purple vegetables are the Beet and the Eggplant. No discussion of purple vegetables can proceed without mentioning these two stalwarts of the garden. One reason they stand out is that the purple dyes in these plants is retained upon cooking. Purple beans and peppers are also beautiful in the garden but they lose their vibrant purple color upon cooking. While orange tends to be the preferred color for garden carrots, the purple carrot is also desirable (and, based on Egyptian ancient records, most likely preceded the orange carrot.) Photo by Gayle Bergevin Have the top ten reasons to choose purple vegetables and flowers convinced you yet? You may choose purple plants and vegetables for their beauty but there are so many more reasons to appreciate the purple . Whatever the reason, hopefully you are inspired to choose purple for your garden this year. Photo Credits: pxhere.com (all creative commons) (1), Gayle Bergevin (2-5)

< Back Forcing Flower Bulbs Successfully Need a little color in your home this winter? After all the holiday décor is stored away, forcing flower bulbs indoors is a great way to enjoy flowers, both for their color and fragrance, during the cold winter months. Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Forcing bulbs indoors is quite easy and does not require expensive materials. You will first need to choose some bulbs. Flower bulbs that are easy to force are: Grape Hyacinths, Daffodils, Hyacinths and Paperwhites. These can be found at most garden stores or purchased through catalogs and online. Chilling Prechill bulbs, such as hyacinths and daffodils. To do so, place them in a paper bag and store in the refrigerator for at least 6 weeks. Paperwhites and amaryllis bulbs do not require a chilling period. Forcing bulbs in water One of the easiest ways to force bulbs is in water. Find a vase or jar that will hold your bulb or bulbs in an even layer. Fill the container with water to just touch the base of the bulb(s.) You will quickly see roots forming. Once you see them, keep the water level below the bulb to prevent rotting. Keep in a cool. Dark place until you see an inch or two of leaf growth. Move the bulbs to a bright spot but avoid direct sunlight. Rotate the vase from time to time to keep the plant growing straight. Add water when needed but keep it below the bottom of the bulb. Forcing bulbs on stones If using a larger vase, creating a base of stones can help keep your bulbs above the water level. Some “stone” options are pea gravel, river rock, glass chips and marbles. Set the bulbs on top of the stones then add a few stones around each bulb to anchor them and keep from tipping. Do not cover them. Add water to reach the base of the bulbs. Add water as it evaporates, keeping the level just below the bulb base. Tip for Paperwhites Get your Paperwhites tipsy! Paperwhites tend to get a little floppy, to prevent this, when leaves are 1 to 2 inches tall, pour out the plain water in your vase and replace with a 1:8 alcohol-to-water solution. Do not over do it, too much alcohol can kill the plants. You can use vodka, whiskey or rum. The use of this mixture stunts the plant’s growth, keeping it compact and sturdy. Keep adding until it is done flowering. Follow these tips to enjoy bringing a little early Spring to your home. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gail Maifeld (2)

< Back Newby’s Flower Garden Marjorie Blare Margie Blare continues her advice to Newby gardeners who may want to start a flower garden but don’t know how to start. Margie Blare provides advice about what you need to consider when starting a garden. It may be more than you think. Read this article to start your flower gardening adventure. Newby looked wistfully across the street at the neighbor’s yard. Right now, it was brown and dead-looking, but Newby knew that in a few short weeks there would be an exuberant display of flowers, and that the shrubs and a tree would be blooming. Newby , “I wish my yard could be more than just the grass and the shade tree that I have, but I don’t know anything about flowers. In a flash of green, Green Thumb appeared! Greenthumb , “I can Help! What is the purpose of your flower garden?” Newby , “Umm, flowers?” Greenthumb , “Do you want big showy display, a formal garden, A wildflower or native garden? or maybe just a pop of color in some areas?” Newby , “Ah, I’m not sure.” Greenthumb , “Let’s look at your house and yard. You need to know how many hours of light your garden will get. The north and east sides of your yard generally get less light than the south or west. Many flowers need full sun, which means a minimum six hours of direct light. Newby : Here’s my house and yard. Greenthumb , Container gardening is a good way to dip your toes into flower gardening and great for pops of color). Check this site out for information on container gardening: https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/fertilizing-and-watering-container-plants For a wildflower garden check out this site: https://agsci.oregonstate.edu/mes/sustainable-wildflower-seed-production/scarification-and-vernalization With in-ground beds this year, you will want to get a soil test. Check out this site to see how to take a soil sample, how to interpret the results, how to determine the soil texture (sandy, clayey, loamy) and how long it takes for your soil to absorb water. The results will let you know what kind and how much fertilizer and organic matter your soil needs before you plant. https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/soil-testing-lawns-and-gardens Newby , “I think I’d like in-ground raised beds.” Greenthumb, “ Since you want raised beds you can use high quality soil to fill them and not have to worry about a soil test for at least a couple of years. Check out this site: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/raised-bed-gardens Greenthumb ,” Now it’s time to choose your flowers.” Newby , “How do I do that?” Greenthumb , “A good way to start is with catalogs. When you find a flower that takes your fancy, you can find out how much sun/shade each flower needs. You will find out things like when to sow outside or start them inside https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors what kind of soil, how dry or wet it should be. Another good way is to visit a local nursery. The tags on the plants will give you the same information, and other questions can be answered by nursery staff. You can also call the Arboretum Yard and Garden line ((612-301-7590) to have a Master Gardener answer your questions. All this information will help you determine where to place your raised beds and what to plant in them. Greenthumb , “Happy Gardening Newby!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1-8,10-11), University of Minnesota Extension (9)