< Back Root Veggie Tart Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Root veggies are popular to grow in home gardens, easy to store, and very nutritious. This “Root Veggie Tart” was a winner with Joy Johnson’s entire family. A delicious and nutritious vegetable treat with fresh or stored root veggies. I made this tart for Easter dinner last spring and taste tested it on 24 of my relatives. Since everyone loved it, from oldest to youngest I thought I’d share it with you. The veggies I used were ones that had been stored over the winter from last fall’s crop, but I’m sharing it now, since you may have fresh root vegetables that you are harvesting. I made a large batch, but you can scale it down to family size quite easily. Feel free to add or subtract root veggies using what you have on hand, it tastes just as good no matter the mix of veggies. Ingredients : 6 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 huge, sweet potato or 3 smaller ones, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 6 medium carrots, peeled and sliced into 1-inch lengths 3 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 1 onion, peeled and cut into small pieces ¾ cup olive oil ¾ cup sugar 3 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 Tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped 2 teaspoons dried sage. If you have fresh sage, use 1 Tablespoon of leaves 4 oz. goat cheese 1 ½ 9-inch pie dough rounds. Roll together into one piece large enough to cover your casserole dish. Preparation: Preheat oven to 400. Put the cut-up veggies in a large zip lock bag, pour in the olive oil and seal bag. Rotate bag until all veggies are coated with oil. Dump out onto one or two rimmed baking sheets, single layer, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put in the oven to roast until golden around the edges and tender, 30-35 min. Let cool. While the veggies are roasting, make the glaze: Cook sugar in 6 tablespoons for water in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, swirling pan occasionally, until mixture is slightly amber colored, 5-7 minutes. Remove from heat and add the vinegar and a pinch of salt, swirling pan to combine. Quickly pour the glaze into the casserole dish, tilt and rotate to evenly coat. Scatter the rosemary and sage over top. Put all the veggies into the casserole dish on top of the glaze. Wiggle them around and press them together gently. Crumble the goat cheese over the vegetables. Drape the rolled-out pie crust over the vegetables in the casserole dish, tuck the edges of the crust down along the inside edge. You may need to use a butter knife to gently push the crust between the veggies and the edges of the dish. Bake until crust looks dry, about 20 minutes, reduce the heat to 350 and bake until crust is golden brown, 15-20 minutes. Dale’s Grapefruit-Basil Martini Here is a delicious cocktail that my brother came up with on the same day I made the veggie tart. It was delicious and refreshing. 3 parts fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 part grapefruit vodka (Dale uses Citron – the one with no added sugar) ½ part Elderflower liqueur (Dale uses St. Germain) ½ part fresh lime juice ½ part simple syrup to taste (1 part sugar, 2 parts water) 1-2 sprigs fresh basil 2-3 drops grapefruit bitters Muddle basil in the grapefruit juice and refrigerate for 24 hours in a Mason jar. Stir or shake periodically. After 24 hours, strain out the basil (a few remaining green flecks are okay). Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with basil sprig (which really provides more of a basil punch!) Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Find Award-Winning Plants for Your Garden Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener Aren’t we all interested in buying the best plants for our gardens; plants that will grow and prosper in our Minnesota growing conditions? There are many ways to research and find such plants. However, this article will discuss two sources of perennials and annuals that have won awards for their excellence in our region. Read this article to learn more about which plants the industry experts think are outstanding for our gardens. Minnesota gardeners are, of course, interested in planting the best perennials, annuals and edibles in their gardens. We all want our plants to be have characteristics like hardiness, disease and pest resistance, low-maintenance, beauty, and being pollinator-friendly. There are many ways to find plants that have these characteristics. You can research plants on websites like the University of Minnesota Extension and others. You can also go to the Dakota County Master Gardener annual plant sale every May for a reliable selection of plants. But this article will talk about two organizations who provide information about award winning plants in our region. The Perennial Plant Association and the All-America Selections are professional organizations whose purpose is to evaluate perennials and annuals for excellence and provide that information to you, the consumer. Perennials Perennial plants of the year have been named annually since 1990 by the Perennial Plant Association. The association is a non-profit organization made up of horticulture professionals from the United States and Canada. The professionals include growers, retailers, landscape designers, educators and others. Each summer, hundreds of these horticultural professionals vote for the Perennial Plant of the Year. The award is based on features such as: low-maintenance, pest and disease-resistance. You can find the winners on the association’s website . Search the winners by USDA Hardiness Zone and level of sunlight needed. Here are some winners in Zone 4: 2026: Andropogon gerardii ‘Blackhawks,’ a big bluestem ornamental grass 2025: Pycnanthemum muticum, a clustered mountain mint 2024: Phlox paniculata ‘Jeana,’ a purple garden phlox 2023: Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush,’ a black-eyed susan 2022: Schizachyrium scoparium, Little Bluestem Andropogon gerardii ‘Blackhawks Look for these and other winners at your local garden centers. Annuals All-America Selections (AAS) is an independent, non-profit organization that tests new, never-before-sold varieties of annuals and edibles for home gardeners. The mission of AAS is to identify new garden varieties that have superior performance and to provide that information to consumers. AAS was the brainchild of W. Ray Hastings, president of the Southern Seedsmen’s Association of Atlanta, Georgia, way back in 1932. The concept was to encourage seed companies to set up trial grounds throughout the United States, where varieties would be grown and judged by skilled, impartial judges. Currently, the trials are conducted in about 80 sites throughout the United States and Canada. The judges are volunteer professional horticulturists. Judges are asked to evaluate plants on a set of characteristics, such as: earliness, disease-resistance, uniqueness, etc. There are three types of awards: the standard AAS National Winner for varieties that achieve superior garden performance compared to other like varieties on the market; the AAS Regional Winner for varieties that perform well in specific regions; and the AAS Gold Medal Award, given only occasionally for a breeding breakthrough. AAS does not advertise its awards. Winners can be found in consumer magazines, newspaper articles, garden blogs, garden club bulletins and cooperative extension agents – and publications like the Garden Buzz. AAS also has nearly 200 display gardens in 55 locations around the country. In Minnesota, you can find AAS display gardens at the University of Minnesota, Falcon Heights, the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum and at Central Lakes College in Staples, MN. You can access information about the winners on the AAS website . The website lists all of the historic winners and allows you to search the winners by category, year or region. For seed-buyers, the website helpfully provides the name of the breeder. Here are some winners from our region (Heartland) over the last six years: 2026 Tomato - BadaBing! F1 - Solanum lycopersicum – Breeder: Frogsleap Farm, distributed by A.P. Whaley Seed Company Tomato BadaBing 2025 Basil - Piedmont - Ocimum basilicum – Breeder: Garden Genetics/Seeds by DesignP 2025 Petunia - Dekko Maxx Pink - Petunia hybrida - Breeder: Syngenta Flowers Petunia Dekko Maxx Pink 2025 Nasturtium – Baby Gold – Tropaeolum minus - Breeder: Takii Europe 2025 Nasturtium - Baby Red - Tropaeolum minus - Breeder: Takii Europe 2025 Nasturtium - Baby Yellow - Tropaeolum minus - Breeder: Takii Europe 2025 Pepper – Pick-N-Pop Yellow – Capsicum annuum – Breeder: Semini Home Garden 2023 Tomato – Zenzei F1 - Solanum lycopersicum - Breeder: Bayer/Serminis 2022 Tomato – Pink Delicious - Solanum lycopersicum - Breeder: Bayer/Serminis Look for these plants at your local garden centers or search online for distributors from whom you can order seeds. Garden with the best! Picture credits: Ed Lyon, Midwest Groundcovers (1), All America Selections (2-3)

< Back Beware the Majestic Black Walnut Tree Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape and provides food for wildlife and humans. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Read this article to understand the pros and significant cons of growing a black walnut tree near a garden where you plan to grow flowers or vegetables. On the positive side, black walnut trees have been prized by furniture makers, carpenters, and wood carvers for their beautiful dark grained wood. Their tree nuts make it an excellent variety to plant for wildlife. Squirrels like to bury the tree nuts for later eating. Humans also like to pick the nutmeat out of the green covering and walnuts are a popular not for use in baking muffins, cookies, and bars. The tree is found across the northern United States among other forest trees. Single stands of black walnut trees are usually not found, instead a single tree will tower above other deciduous trees in the forest. The black walnut can grow to 100 feet tall with deep furrowed dark bark and thick branches, which makes it a great shade tree. Leaves have 11-13 leaflets along a toothed spear. The tree likes moist well drained soils along creeks and rivers. But black walnut trees carry a major negative characteristic. The entire tree is toxic. Roots, buds, leaves and nut hulls contain a chemical called juglone toxin . The soil under the tree will have the highest level of juglone due to the accumulation of roots, fallen leaves, hulls and nuts lying on the ground. Collecting this debris is a good sanitation habit but, nonetheless, the highest amount of juglone is in the roots, which run underground. So, what does that mean for the homeowner who has black walnut trees on their property or may want to grow this tree? You must be aware that most grass, shrubs, herbaceous flowers, some trees, and vegetables will not grow near black walnut trees. Vegetables such as asparagus, cabbage, peppers potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes are sensitive to black walnut tree juglone. Apple trees, blueberry and pear trees are also affected. Azalea, chokeberry, hackberry, hydrangea, lilac, red pine, white pine, Norway spruce, and yew, do not tolerate juglone. However, there are some landscape plants that do tolerate juglone. They include, arborvitae, clematis, crabapple, honeysuckle, most maples, oak, and most viburnum. Flowers that will tolerate the toxic soil are zinnia, Siberian squill, lungwort, bee balm, coral bells and others. Some sources recommend planting 50-80 feet from the tree. The University of Minnesota Extension has a complete list of plants that can be planted near a black walnut tree. The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Credits https://extension.umn.edu/managing-woodlands/managing-black-walnut-forests Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Autarmota.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2), www.Marylandbiodiversity.com (All Creative Commons) (3)

< Back How To Prepare New Fruit Trees for the Winter Months Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Here are some steps you can take throughout the year for the greatest chance of success no matter what Mother Nature throws at you! During the growing season - thin the smallest fruits from your tree to encourage growth of larger fruits (cherries are an exception). If too much fruit is on the tree, nutrients are more dispersed leading to smaller fruit this season and less fruit for the following year. For apples and pears, thin to 1-2 fruits per spur for every 6 inches of branch. For apples, this is done before the fruit is the width of a marble in June or July. Make sure there aren't any ripe fruits left on the tree so limbs do not break from the extra weight. Your fruit tree is going to need some training to become fully winter hardy and survive the cold temperatures. Hold off on the fertilizer after July. This includes any lawn areas within 20 feet of your tree. You don’t want to stimulate growth and delay the hardening-off process. This gradual process starts up in the buds and ends in the trunk. At the end of the season (October and November) - clean the fallen fruits and leaves off the ground around your tree. Skipping this step creates more opportunities for fungal disease and insect issues for the following spring. Keep this type of litter out of your compost pile to reduce disease in your yard overall in case pathogens are present. Adding 3 inches of organic mulch around the base of your tree helps retain water and will insulate the soil around your plant’s roots. Think of it as tucking in your plant with a nice mulch blankie but not too tight! Make sure to keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk and continue to provide adequate amounts of water until the ground is frozen. If the weather turns too cold too quickly, the tree can be damaged. There can also be damage if the weather turns unseasonably warm in the winter. White plastic guards or tree wrap should be applied to the trunk in November. These will help reflect the sun’s rays so the tree’s cells don’t wake up on those nice warm and sunny days, re-freeze and damage the trunk’s tissues. Just make sure to take those guards off again in the spring so it doesn’t create a haven for fungi. Take a moment and put a reminder in your calendar right now! Plum tree protection Cut down any plants at the base of your tree or around your shrub to prevent unwanted creatures from nibbling on the trunk during the winter. Bury ¼ inch mesh galvanized hardware cloth up to 4 inches in the ground to prevent small rodents from nibbling and girdling the trunk of the tree. Imagine there’s snow on the ground and how high a rabbit (not a rodent but equally as destructive) could reach. Leave enough room with meshing for the tree to grow into over a few seasons as well as any stakes for new trees the first year. Large fencing and tubes can be used to minimize deer browse and antler rubbing. Once temperatures have plummeted, enjoy your time off from tree care! In the late winter or early spring, after the severely cold temperatures have passed, it’s time to prune your fruit trees. For trees less than three years old, opt for later rather than earlier. Young apple tree needing pruning With some preparations and a little luck, you’ll be enjoying the fruits of your labor this coming growing season! Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples https://extension.umaine.edu/fruit/growing-fruit-trees-in-maine/preparing-trees-for-winter/ https://extension.unh.edu/blog/2020/10/how-do-i-prepare-my-backyard-fruits-winter https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/fruit#stone-fruits-2394860 https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-newly-planted-trees-and-shrubs https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/em-9598-fruit-thinning https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/white-tailed-deer-damage#netting%2C-tubes-or-other-protective-structures-1880562 Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), Amanda Drews (2)

< Back The Sensory Garden Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Memories are often tied to our senses and for many of us, our first or favorite memories occurred in a garden. This article will discuss how to create a sensory garden that will enliven the senses, spark old memories, and hopefully make some new ones for first time visitors. For me, the smell and taste of chives brings up one of my first memories. As a toddler, I would walk around my parent’s vegetable garden and happily munch on a chive that my father handed me as he scanned the garden for ingredients to use in our dinner. The smell of a tomato vine brings me back to when I would visit my grandparents and was asked to go harvest a few tomatoes for the salad we were going to have for lunch. The sound of wind moving through trees, or a slow-moving creek reminds me of time spent playing in a forest, completely carefree. A sensory garden can be any size and can be created all at once or in stages. Let’s explore the different senses and what we can add to our gardens to create a unique sensory experience. Taste Herbs can be started from seed or purchased as mature plants and can be grown in either your garden or in a pot. Here are a few examples of plants that will bring taste into your garden space. Herbs: Basil, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint, Oregano, Cilantro Vegetables: Carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, spinach, kale, squash, radish Touch Focus on different textures that you can incorporate into your space. Lambs Ears: a favorite among children Succulents : these can be kept in pots or grown in your garden (some are Minnesota hardy!) Feathered Grasses: run your fingers through the grasses as you walk through your garden Spongy Moss: resilient, unique texture Tree Bark: smooth, peeling or textured Smooth Rocks: stepping stones Tactile Elements : pots, planters, ornaments Smell Some plants give off a beautiful fragrance when the wind comes through or when you brush past them on a walk. Even something as simple as fresh cut grass can be counted as an element within this sense. Lavender: the aroma can help soothe and decrease stress – it is also a great pollinator Herb garden: rosemary, mint, basil, and many others can produce a scent when you rub your hands over the leaves Creeping Thyme: you can release the scent of this plant either by rubbing the leaves between your fingers or by stepping on them as they are often used as a ground cover plant Sight One of the greatest rewards in gardening is being able to sit back and observe a space that you’ve created. There are several ways to bring your garden alive that can be enjoyed through each season. Spring & Summer Different types of bird food and feeders will attract a variety of birds A bird bath or water source with the sound of running water will attract birds Milkweed will attract Monarch Butterflies to your yard and if you’re lucky, they will lay eggs on this plant. Some other plants that attract Monarch Butterflies include: Goldenrod, Butterfly Bush, Cosmos, Lantana, Lilac, Zinnia, Asters, Purple Coneflower, Yarrow and Coreopsis Plant climbing plants over arbors and trellises Include plants with different textures and variegation Incorporate a bench to observe your garden Fall & Winter Some native grasses, like Little Blue Stem, will move from green to blue in the summer and then to red in the fall Burning Bush is another plant that will signal the changing season, becoming a vibrant red in fall As the days get shorter, Autumn Joy Sedum will bring a rosy, pink shade into your garden Enjoy the bright red branches of a Dogwood shrub throughout the cold, gray winter months If you have hydrangeas that bloom on new growth, consider leaving their stems and flowers intact throughout the winter for additional winter interest Sound Sound can be added or attracted to your garden. Water Feature: this will create the sound of water and will also attract birds looking for a place to get a drink and to splash in a bath Beneficial Insects: planting pollinator plants will attract busy buzzing bees as well as other pollinators throughout growing season Ornamental Grasses: wind will move through the grass creating movement and a soothing sound Bird Feeders: attract songbirds by offering a variety of seed mixtures Gravel Paths: listen to the crunch of the gravel as you walk the path through your garden Wind Chimes: add a windchime to your garden to create a beautiful tune as a summer breeze blows through The benefits of creating a sensory garden go far beyond simple enjoyment. These gardens are good for sensory stimulation and development, have calming effects, encourage curiosity and allow for reflection and stress reduction. As Master Gardeners we look for ways to engage with our community and their love of gardening. Master Gardeners have created a program called “Growing Connections” that works hand in hand with the Alzheimer’s Association and focuses on sensory gardening activities. Check out our website for information about Master Gardener events and programs. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata): A Beautiful Bark and no Bite Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Shagbark Hickory is a striking tree, native to the Upper East coast and Midwest. It can be a bit “goofy-looking” with is rough peeling bark. Yet it is a huge, long-lived, strong specimen that you might consider for your yard – or just appreciate it when you see it. This article tells you more about this special Minnesota native. We have a mature shagbark hickory just to the right of our garage. He greets me every time I come home. He’s a bit goofy looking, clothed in pealing bark, yet oddly beautiful as the light and shadows play on the trunk. Shagbark hickory is native to the Upper East coast and Midwest. It is found in southeastern Minnesota, although it will do well throughout zone 4. Carya ovata is also called scaly bark hickory , Carolina hickory , upland hickory and shellbark hickory . These guys can get really big, up to 100 feet, and can live for 350 years. So, plan your planting placement carefully. As it has a long central taproot, it does not transplant easily - another problem for nursery growers. Bark of a mature Carya ovata As the name implies, mature shagbarks have shaggy bark. Young trees however, have a smooth bark. Be patient. It is a deciduous tree, starting to form nuts at about 10 years of age although large amounts aren’t seen until the tree hits age 40. Once it gets in gear, it will continue to produce for as long as 100 years. Unfortunately, it is an erratic producer with generous crops every 3 to 5 years. Thus, although the nuts are tasty, you’ll not see them in commercial production owing to the tree’s erratic crop yields. Shagbark hickory leaves Although you might not find hickory nuts at the store, when they do show up, they are a favorite of a number of species. Shagbark hickory feeds squirrels, mice, chipmunks and raccoons. Bears, foxes and a number of bird species including mallards, wood ducks, bobwhites and wild turkeys feed off shagbark nuts. It is the larval food for the Luna moth, walnut sphinx and also the royal walnut moth whose larval stage is called hickory horned devil. The wood is heavy and very strong and durable, great for woodworking if you’re the patient sort. Shagbark hickory nut Carya ovata prefers a humid climate with full sun. It is however shade tolerant although growth is slowed in such conditions. In general, it is a hardy tree with few pests and is tolerant of a wide range of temperature, although it does best in Zone 4 to 8. It is a slow grower so plan on any plantings as future shade trees. It’s worth the wait! Photo Credit: John B. Wikimedia Commons (1,2), www.forestryimages.org (3)

Request a Speaker Master Gardeners are available to speak to garden clubs, at workplace seminars or other groups about a wide variety of garden-related topics. We have access to the latest university based research, attend educational seminars throughout the year and have personal interest in many aspects of gardening. Here is a list of just some of the topics we are able to present to your group. Don’t see what you are looking for? Contact our Speakers Bureau and we can help. Please remember that our Speaker Bureau program is run by volunteers and we therefore ask for your patience. Please allow 3-5 business days for a reply. Ideally, we ask that you request speakers a minimum of 4-6 weeks before your event although more urgent requests will be considered and fulfilled whenever possible. We appreciate your understanding. Popular Topics Annuals Bee friendly plants Beekeeping Blueberries Container gardening Composting Herbs Houseplants Invasive plants and pests Orchids Putting your gardens to bed Shade gardening Spring bulbs Square foot gardening Seeding starting Vegetables And more!! Request a Speaker First Name Last Name Email Write a message. Please include the location for the presentation. Submit Your request has been sent.

< Back It’s August - What Can You Find in Your Garden? Julie Henrichs, Master Gardener The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! The days of August bring a time for not only harvesting and additional plant and flower care, but it offers a chance to go out exploring in your garden with the kids in your life. It can be as simple as flower color or texture recognition to plant, fruit, bug and vegetable identification. Items found can be crossed off a list, collected for further exploration or even better - eaten fresh. Ready, set, explore! Before you begin, remember to adjust your exploration so it is age appropriate and safe for all. Scavenger Hunt options are listed below based on a specific type of garden you may have but any can be combined. ( Italic items are more challenging or may require more research for older children. ) Garden Scavenger Hunt Flower Garden/Flower Planters Find a red flower ( Find a salvia bee balm or geranium flower-how many petals are on each stem?) Find a Hibiscus plant ( Are hibiscus in Minnesota considered an annual or perennial? Answer: There are different types of hibiscus. Some are considered tropical and are annuals unless brought inside for the winter. There is also a perennial hardy hibiscus that can be grown in Minnesota Find a fragrant smelling flower. ( Name the flower found. Do you think marigolds have a fragrant smell?) Find an annual plant. Find a perennial plant. What makes each type of plant an annual or perennial? What is a biennial? Answer: Life Cycles = annual-1 year (marigolds, impatiens); biennial-2 years (foxglove, dianthus) and perennial more than 2 years (hostas, daylilies) Vegetable/Fruit Garden Find a green vegetable ( Find a green bean. What is the difference between a bush bean and a pole bean? Answer: Bush Beans=lower and more compact growing plants; larger harvests over a shorter period of time; usually planted in rows. Pole Beans=vining and climbing plant; smaller harvests but extend over entire growing season; need trellis system to grow on) Find an herb ( Identify the herb found and taste it. What can this herb be used for? Answer: Examples - Basil=pesto; Oregano=pizza; Lemon Balm=tea, salads) Pick a ripe tomato ( What type of tomato did you pick? Example-Roma, Cherry, Grape, Yellow) Find an orange vegetable (Examples: peppers, carrots, pumpkins) Find a root vegetable or the tops of a root vegetable ( What is a root vegetable? Answer: the plant parts eaten are underground-examples are carrots, potatoes and radishes.) Bugs and Leaves Find a bug and explain what it is doing ( Identify the bug found - does the bug benefit or harm the garden vegetation?) Find a tomato plant and look for an unhealthy leaf ( What would make my tomato plant unhealthy and what do the leaves tell me? Answer: pests, disease or an environmental problem. Example: Yellowing leaves can mean a nitrogen, iron, magnesium or potassium deficiency or overwatering. Find a honey bee and tell us three characteristics of the bee. Answer: striped abdomen; amber brown color and four clear wings attached to the thorax. ( Why are honey bees important to our garden? Answer: honey bees are essential for pollinating plants) Find a leaf in the garden that has been chewed on by an insect. ( Turn over the leaves, look near the base of the plants for the bug responsible for the chewed-up leaves. Identify the bug.) Getting outside into your gardens are so much more fun when shared with the children in our lives! Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (1), pxhere.com (2,3)

< Back Vegetables Indigenous to North America Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota and provide some useful references for those interested in exploring this topic more thoroughly. Larry Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener Interest in native or indigenous plants, including fruits and vegetables, is on the rise as people begin to understand how these plants promote both a healthy environment and a healthy diet. This article will explore some of the vegetables that are indigenous to North America, including Minnesota. But first, let’s define some terms. Indigenous vegetables are defined as “locally-produced (usually within traditional systems), socially and culturally accepted as local foods, and eaten by previous generations or introduced for a very long time.” https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 . “A plant is “native” if it has occurred naturally for thousands of years in a region, ecosystem, or habitat without human introduction. https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native . Minnesota is home to a wide range of native and indigenous plants and vegetables each with many different cultivars. An important source for indigenous plants in Minnesota is a work by Frances Densmore - Plants Used by the Chippewa Indians , originally published in 1927 and later retitled How the Indians Use Wild Plants for Food, Medicine & Crafts . Densmore documented nearly 200 plants and their uses for food, medicine, dyes, charms, and crafts. Her work offered a firsthand look at the plants used by Indigenous communities across Minnesota. For example, she recorded the use of Spreading Dogbane for heart issues and Chokecherry bark for stomach ailments—remedies later validated by U.S. pharmacological references. Her contributions remain deeply influential today. (See references below.) While it’s easy to find general references to staple crops like beans, squash, and corn, it is more difficult to uncover exact cultivars. Densmore’ book is an excellent source for this research. Frances Densmore More recently, many organizations are attempting to identify and save seeds that are indigenous to North America. In Minnesota, environmentalist and Native American activist Winona LaDuke initiated the White Earth Land Recovery Project to protect indigenous seeds, help the community to overcome type-2 diabetes and also strengthen the community’s spiritual and cultural heritage. Other organizations that are working to catalog and conserve indigenous seeds are Seed Savers Exchange and Slow Food International’s Ark of Taste . One organization, Food Tank, has compiled a list 20 foods that are indigenous to the people in North America. Some foods on this list are familiar and some or not: but all are interesting. Acorns (California native oak trees) American Persimmon Wild Rice (Anishinaabe Manoomin) Bay of Fundy Dulse (a red seaweed from Canada) Blue Camas (Pacific Northwest, root vegetable) Candy Roaster Squash (Appalachian Mountain native) Chaya (native to Yucatan Peninsula, evergreen plant) Chiltepin Pepper (southern U.S., very spicy) Cholla Cactus Flower Buds (southwestern U.S.) Garambullo (central Mexico, sweet red or purple fruit) Highbush Cranberry (native to Alberta, Canada) Mesquite Beans (southwestern U.S.) Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads (northeastern North America) Pawpaws (largest edible fruit in North America) Ramon seed (superfood used by Mayans) Roy’s Calais Flint Corn (northern U.S. and Canada) Seminole Pumpkin (native to the Everglades) Tehucan Amaranth (indigenous to the Tehuacan Valley of Mexico) Tepary Beans (southwestern U.S.) Wild Ramps (wild onions native to eastern North America) Indigenous vegetables that are more familiar locally include beans, corn and squash. One traditional method of growing these crops is known as the “Three Sisters.” The term “Three Sisters” refers to corn, squash, and beans traditionally grown together using intercropping techniques. These plants support one another: corn offers structure, beans enrich the soil with nitrogen, and squash shades the ground to retain moisture and suppress weeds. This method has been used for generations, and studies have confirmed its effectiveness. Three Sisters plots have shown significantly better soil health—including higher CO₂ respiration and nitrate levels—compared to monoculture plantings. Corn – Red Lake Corn One variety native to Minnesota is Red Lake Corn, cultivated by the Red Lake Ojibwe along Red Lake’s southern shores. This eight-rowed corn features mixed white and blue kernels, occasionally with red. It’s a distinct and culturally significant variety grown by skilled Indigenous farmers. Beans – Pole beans Cherokee Trail of Tears pole bean . The Cherokee people carried these beans with them during their forced removal from their ancestral lands, highlighting their importance as a source of sustenance and cultural identity. For purposes of the Three Sisters, look for varieties that will grow up and wrap around corn stalks. Many varieties with roots in North America are available. Squash – Cucurbita maxima Cucurbita maxima , one of the five cultivated squash species, originated over 4,000 years ago in South America. Though it favors warmer climates, some varieties have historically been grown in cooler regions like Minnesota. Frances Densmore referenced it as a basic but important food source. This long-vining plant needs full sun, fertile soil, and space to spread. Its seeds also have medicinal uses, and the fruit is versatile—great for soups, roasting, or baking. Some varieties are even grown for ornament or livestock feed. Squash, Cucurbita maxima If you are interested in growing heirloom vegetables indigenous to North America, look for Native seed companies like Seedsavers Exchange. For more information about indigenous vegetables, take a look at the references below. References https://foodtank.com/news/2016/07/indigenous-foods-historically-and-culturally-important-to-north-americ/ https://www.gardenary.com/blog/what-crops-are-actually-native-to-north-america https://www.nwf.org/Native-Plant-Habitats/Plant-Native/Why-Native https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1102_27 https://friendsofeloisebutler.org/pages/history/densmore.html https://www.redwingminnesota.org/dakota-densmore https://www.mnopedia.org/person/densmore-frances-1867-1957 https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/151430#page/1/mode/1up https://www.extension.iastate.edu/vegetablelab/files/research/files/farmreports-12307-herrighty.pdf https://minnesotareformer.com/2020/11/24/returning-the-three-sisters-corn-beans-and-squash-to-native-american-farms-nourishes-people-land-and-cultures/ https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/10-plants/corn https://www.redlakenationnews.com/story/2018/10/01/features/red-lake-corn/75293.html?m=true https://www.mnfuels.com/blog/88-octane/corn-on-indigenous-peoples-day/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Astragalus_crassicarpus https://identify.plantnet.org/k-world-flora/species/Cucurbita%20maxima%20Duchesne/data https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cucurbita_maxima https://minnesotagrown.com/wp-content/uploads/Winter-Squash.pdf Photo credits: www.educationthatinspires.ca (1), www.mnopedia.org (2), En.wikipedia.org (3)

< Back What to Do With a Round Zucchini? Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Have you ever been gifted with a vegetable that you didn’t know what to do with? Read this entertaining article to find out what Master Gardener Joy Johnson made with the large, round zucchini she received from a family member. Her clever recipe will inspire you! My brother-in-law stopped by for a visit on Monday. He handed me a round zucchini when he walked in the door with a big grin on his face. I didn’t know what it was at first. It was the size of a cantaloupe, dark green with dark orange stripes. I didn’t believe him when he said it was a zucchini. Have you ever been gifted with an interesting vegetable that you didn’t know what to do with? I gave my neighbor a kohlrabi last summer and she had the same look on her face that I gave my brother-in-law when I handed it to her. I love to share my garden produce and I also enjoy trying new foods and veggies. I watched the large round zucchini for a couple of days as it sat on my counter staring back at me. It seemed friendly enough. I was scheduled to make dinner at my dad’s apartment on Thursday evening. I needed to come up with something I could make at his place that wouldn’t take too long, use too many dishes and utensils but would be healthy and tasty. I grabbed the zucchini, a half-used package of Cotija cheese (that was left from when I made Chile Rellenos), a handful of dried parsley. I stopped at the grocery store and bought a package of Uncle Ben’s Ready Rice (Red Beans & Rice flavor). That is something I’ve never used before. I usually make rice from scratch, but that takes time, and I knew I’d need something with a lot of flavors because zucchini is so mild. I also had a couple of slices of leftover ham. Now I just needed some side dishes to serve with the zucchini. I quickly made a lettuce salad and grabbed some leftover butternut squash. So, this was going to be a summer and winter squash supper! Here's my improvised recipe for the large round zucchini. Ingredients: 1 large round zucchini 1 pack Uncle Bens Ready Rice, Red Beans & Rice flavor 1 handful of dried parsley 2 thick pieces of ham, diced ½ cup Cotija cheese, crumbled Process: Slice the top off the zucchini as if you are going to carve it like a Jack-o’-lantern. Scoop out the seeds and stringy middle flesh and discard. Scoop out a little more flesh so you have about a 2-cup hollow. Cover the zucchini with its lid. Cook it in the microwave or oven until it just starts to get tender. It took mine 20 minutes in the oven, then 5 minutes in the microwave. If you bake it in the oven, put it in a pie plate and add water to the pie plate before putting it in to bake at 350 degrees. Dice the extra zucchini flesh that you scooped out. Cook the rice according to package directions, add the diced zucchini, the handful of dried parsley and the chopped ham. You may need to add 1/3 cup water or broth. You don’t want it soupy, but you need to cook the ham and the diced zucchini. Remove the large round zucchini from the oven or microwave. Scoop the cooked rice mixture into the zucchini, stir in the crumbled cheese, put the lid on it and heat it through in the microwave for about 3-5 minutes. Eat and enjoy! Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1,2)

< Back Microgreens - Only Micro in Size Did you think that you would have to wait until spring to grow fresh greens for your dinner table? Not so if you read this article and learn how to grow microgreens indoors. Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens-accept their size! Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens - except their size! A microgreen is a plant in between the sprout stage and the baby stage of development. When we eat microgreens, we are eating the cotyledon (the embryonic leaf or leaves inside the seed) and a few of the plant’s true leaves. There are many benefits to growing and eating microgreens. They go from sowing to harvest in one to three weeks with minimal opportunities for failure. They can be grown indoors year-round. According to research , t hey contain 4 to 40 times more nutrients than full-grown plants. There are many varieties of microgreens available to grow and they all provide a delicious and fresh addition to many meals even in the dead of winter. When selecting your first microgreen variety to grow, something from the mustard family (Brassicaceae)—such as arugula, mustard or radish—is a good place to start as they germinate quickly and have a lot of flavor. Microgreen growing kits are growing in popularity and offer an effortless first foray into microgreen enjoyment. Many seed catalogue companies—"Johnny’s” and “High Mowing Seeds” to name two—have extensive microgreen seed selections complete with growing guides and they also have any supplies needed to start your growing operation. Here is what you will need to grow microgreens at home: 1) Any clean container with drainage holes (existing or added): think mushroom containers, salad mix containers, bottom half of a milk jug or even an egg carton and a tray to set the container in; 2) Seed-starting mix; 3) Organic, non-GMO seed from a reliable seed source; 4) A spray bottle or misting pump-sprayer for watering the delicate seedlings; and 5) A window or grow light or combination of the two; enough to provide 16 hours of light per day and at least 6 hours of darkness. More extensive microgreen growing can be done just as easily by the at-home gardener by upgrading to standard greenhouse growing trays called 1020 flats, high-output grow lights, a fan running on the plants to inhibit the growth of fungus and mold and liquid seaweed nutrients added to the water to boost nutrient values after seed germination. When starting your microgreens, ensure your seed-starting mix is tamped down, moist (but not too wet) and about 1.5 inches in depth. Your seed source or packet should have variety-specific directions for how thickly to sow seeds in your container. Keeping the seeds moist and in contact with the growing medium until germination, is essential. A seed sprouting lid works well as do damp paper towels. When the seeds have fully germinated and there are visible roots coming through the drain holes in your container, you can start watering from the bottom to reduce the risk of fungal growth and damaging or flattening your plants during watering. Microgreens are tender, delicate and best when eaten raw after minimal handling. Harvesting should occur when the plants are between 2 and 4 inches tall and have at least one true leaf. Cut the plants off just above the level of the soil, lightly wash and completely dry in a salad spinner and enjoy. Cut greens can be stored in a closed plastic container or bag in the fridge for up to three days and washed before enjoying. Alternately, washed greens can be stored after completely drying them using kitchen or paper towels. Enjoy your fresh and vibrant greens on almost anything; sandwiches, salads, pasta, pizza, stir fry or all on their own. There is an abundance of reliable micro greens resources on the internet—here are a few: https://themicrogardener.com/easy-guide-to-growing-microgreens/ https://microgreensworld.com/ https://extension.psu.edu/a-step-by-step-guide-for-growing-microgreens-at-home Photo credits: Joanna Kapke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Protecting Our Trees from Invasive Species Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” This article defines and identifies the invasive species that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” We’re looking at a two part definition. In the first part we see that these species are not native to Minnesota. We often use such terms as exotic, alien, introduced, etc. There is an implication that all invasive species come from outside the United States. This is not always the case. These new pests simply come from outside Minnesota. In the second part of our definition the key word is harm. We are concerned with those pathogens, plants, animals or insects that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) The number one new pest facing our trees in Dakota County is the emerald ash borer (EAB) . The nearest confirmed sighting is in the area of Fort Snelling in Hennepin County and Highland Park in Ramsey County. The general rule that the insect can travel by itself somewhere between 13-15 miles in a given year implies that within a short period of time we will have confirmed sightings within Dakota County. Do you know the symptoms to look for? The first thing to look for is increased woodpecker activity. These birds know a tasty treat when they find one. This increased activity normally happens in the second year after EAB infestation and is followed by vertical splits in the bark and sometimes defoliation in the tree canopy. A closer inspection could then reveal the large s-shaped galleries under the bark and the D-shaped exit holes. These symptoms generally confirm that the tree has been infected. Gypsy Moth The second pest that we all need to be aware of is the gypsy moth . It attacks several varieties of trees but here in Minnesota aspens and oak seem to be the favorite. The gypsy moth caterpillars are capable of defoliating acres of trees. It has arrived in Minnesota! Not necessarily here in Dakota County, but it has invaded out state. Lake and Cook counties in the Arrowhead region have reached the point where they will be experiencing the first steps in a quarantine . How will it affect us? Most of us will not be directly affected. But if we have property in these counties or intend to vacation there we will feel the impact. Thousand Canker Disease Thousand Canker Disease is a third new pest that affects black walnuts. It is a fungus carried by the walnut twig beetle. When it enters the bark it leaves behind a fungus that causes a canker. If you have any black walnut trees you need to be concerned and be able to recognize it. For the rest of us you do need to know that it is now the law that black walnut wood of any size or shape cannot be imported into Minnesota. A quarantine is in effect that makes this illegal. Asian Longhorn Beetle The fourth pest emerging in Minnesota is the Asian Longhorn Beetle . While poplars, maples and box elders seem to be the preferred trees in Minnesota it also feeds on several other varieties which makes it especially dangerous. Signs and symptoms include crown die-back, shallow depressions in the bark where the eggs are laid, sap seeping from these egg niches, pencil-size round exit holes and a sawdust on the top of branches or on the ground surrounding the tree. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug Two new and emerging pests do not actually kill the tree but both will damage the fruit the tree produces. The first is the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug . It has been found in several Minnesota counties and is considered a pest because it feed on fruit and vegetables. The insect is also considered a nuisance as it invades houses and other buildings in the fall seeking warmth. When disturbed, it emits a foul odor. Spotted Wing Drosophila Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD) is also a new and emerging pest and has been found in 20 counties in Minnesota. It is similar to a fruit fly. But unlike the typical fruit fly that feeds on damaged fruit, SWD feeds on intact, healthy, ripening fruit, especially thin-skinned berries. The female can pierce the soft skin and lay its eggs. In doing so there is also a possibility of an introduction of rot and fungus. So far in Minnesota the favorite has been raspberries. It has been known to attack apples and other tree bearing fruits. Oriental Bittersweet In our training one invasive plant was discussed. Oriental Bittersweet has been found in Dakota County in Burnsville and Eagan. It is a vine that can grow over 60 feet long and will girdle and smother trees and shrubs. It is spread by rhizomes and seeds, mainly through birds ingesting and then eliminating the seeds. Through this natural action, entire plant communities have been known to be overwhelmed. iI becomes our job to eradicate it. What Can I Do? We still need to answer one important question. What should be done if you suspect you have found one of these tree pests? There is an “Arrest the Pest” hotline you can email at arrest.the.pest@state.mn.us or by phone at 888-545-6684. Doing so could help us protect our native trees.