< Back Forcing Flower Bulbs Successfully Need a little color in your home this winter? After all the holiday décor is stored away, forcing flower bulbs indoors is a great way to enjoy flowers, both for their color and fragrance, during the cold winter months. Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Forcing bulbs indoors is quite easy and does not require expensive materials. You will first need to choose some bulbs. Flower bulbs that are easy to force are: Grape Hyacinths, Daffodils, Hyacinths and Paperwhites. These can be found at most garden stores or purchased through catalogs and online. Chilling Prechill bulbs, such as hyacinths and daffodils. To do so, place them in a paper bag and store in the refrigerator for at least 6 weeks. Paperwhites and amaryllis bulbs do not require a chilling period. Forcing bulbs in water One of the easiest ways to force bulbs is in water. Find a vase or jar that will hold your bulb or bulbs in an even layer. Fill the container with water to just touch the base of the bulb(s.) You will quickly see roots forming. Once you see them, keep the water level below the bulb to prevent rotting. Keep in a cool. Dark place until you see an inch or two of leaf growth. Move the bulbs to a bright spot but avoid direct sunlight. Rotate the vase from time to time to keep the plant growing straight. Add water when needed but keep it below the bottom of the bulb. Forcing bulbs on stones If using a larger vase, creating a base of stones can help keep your bulbs above the water level. Some “stone” options are pea gravel, river rock, glass chips and marbles. Set the bulbs on top of the stones then add a few stones around each bulb to anchor them and keep from tipping. Do not cover them. Add water to reach the base of the bulbs. Add water as it evaporates, keeping the level just below the bulb base. Tip for Paperwhites Get your Paperwhites tipsy! Paperwhites tend to get a little floppy, to prevent this, when leaves are 1 to 2 inches tall, pour out the plain water in your vase and replace with a 1:8 alcohol-to-water solution. Do not over do it, too much alcohol can kill the plants. You can use vodka, whiskey or rum. The use of this mixture stunts the plant’s growth, keeping it compact and sturdy. Keep adding until it is done flowering. Follow these tips to enjoy bringing a little early Spring to your home. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gail Maifeld (2)

< Back Newby’s Flower Garden Marjorie Blare Margie Blare continues her advice to Newby gardeners who may want to start a flower garden but don’t know how to start. Margie Blare provides advice about what you need to consider when starting a garden. It may be more than you think. Read this article to start your flower gardening adventure. Newby looked wistfully across the street at the neighbor’s yard. Right now, it was brown and dead-looking, but Newby knew that in a few short weeks there would be an exuberant display of flowers, and that the shrubs and a tree would be blooming. Newby , “I wish my yard could be more than just the grass and the shade tree that I have, but I don’t know anything about flowers. In a flash of green, Green Thumb appeared! Greenthumb , “I can Help! What is the purpose of your flower garden?” Newby , “Umm, flowers?” Greenthumb , “Do you want big showy display, a formal garden, A wildflower or native garden? or maybe just a pop of color in some areas?” Newby , “Ah, I’m not sure.” Greenthumb , “Let’s look at your house and yard. You need to know how many hours of light your garden will get. The north and east sides of your yard generally get less light than the south or west. Many flowers need full sun, which means a minimum six hours of direct light. Newby : Here’s my house and yard. Greenthumb , Container gardening is a good way to dip your toes into flower gardening and great for pops of color). Check this site out for information on container gardening: https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/fertilizing-and-watering-container-plants For a wildflower garden check out this site: https://agsci.oregonstate.edu/mes/sustainable-wildflower-seed-production/scarification-and-vernalization With in-ground beds this year, you will want to get a soil test. Check out this site to see how to take a soil sample, how to interpret the results, how to determine the soil texture (sandy, clayey, loamy) and how long it takes for your soil to absorb water. The results will let you know what kind and how much fertilizer and organic matter your soil needs before you plant. https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/soil-testing-lawns-and-gardens Newby , “I think I’d like in-ground raised beds.” Greenthumb, “ Since you want raised beds you can use high quality soil to fill them and not have to worry about a soil test for at least a couple of years. Check out this site: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/raised-bed-gardens Greenthumb ,” Now it’s time to choose your flowers.” Newby , “How do I do that?” Greenthumb , “A good way to start is with catalogs. When you find a flower that takes your fancy, you can find out how much sun/shade each flower needs. You will find out things like when to sow outside or start them inside https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors what kind of soil, how dry or wet it should be. Another good way is to visit a local nursery. The tags on the plants will give you the same information, and other questions can be answered by nursery staff. You can also call the Arboretum Yard and Garden line ((612-301-7590) to have a Master Gardener answer your questions. All this information will help you determine where to place your raised beds and what to plant in them. Greenthumb , “Happy Gardening Newby!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1-8,10-11), University of Minnesota Extension (9)

< Back Propagating House Plants Gail Baxter and Marie Stolte, Master Gardeners Winter blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. January blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. Each plant species has its own preferred way to be propagated. Some prefer division (see list below) where a single plant is separated into two or more. Other plants start easily from cuttings (think philodendrons; stem pieces of 6” or so root easily in a glass of water). Some cuttings, like jade plant, can be started in seedless potting medium instead of water. And then, there are the cuttings that can be propagated from a single leaf, or even part of a leaf. Propagate from cuttings: Jade plant, aloe, hoya, Christmas cactus, snake plant, croton, Philodendron, Rex begonias, dragon wing begonias, kalanchoe, English ivy, dracaena, hen and chicks, pothos, African violet Propagate by division: Anthurium, peace lily, snake plant, pilea, dracaena, ZZ plant, spider plant (or plant the baby offsets) Fun with Rex Begonias By January, I am usually ready to propagate more Rex begonias . They come in many colors, and every year, I seem to buy a new variety to fill my summer containers. I bring them indoors in the fall and overwinter them as houseplants. To propagate them, I gather my materials: soil-less seed starting mix (or, you can use a 50-50 mix of perlite and vermiculite), cutting board, pruning shears and a razor blade (both sterilized with rubbing alcohol or bleach water), pins (I used quilter’s pins and T-pins), and a take-out container with a lid (punch several holes in the bottom). Step 1: Fill the nursery tray with the seed starting mix. Wet it well; when you gather a handful of soil and squeeze it, the soil should hold together but not be dripping. Step 2: Cut a healthy leaf with your pruners. Middle aged leaves work well, rather than very old or very young leaves. Cut off the stem so all that is left is the leaf. Step 3: Turn the leaf over so you can see the veins. Make a perpendicular cut across each of the largest veins with the razor blade. Step 4: With the leaf vein cuts facing down, press the leaf onto the soil and pin to hold the cuts firmly against the soil. Cover the container with the clear plastic lid, and put on a windowsill that receives indirect light—not direct sunlight, which can bake the tiny plants that emerge. Check the soil every few days and water if it starts to dry out. Within 6 to 8 weeks, baby leaves should appear near the site of each vein cut. Remove the plastic lid at this point. When the leaves are about a half-inch across, carefully separate the baby plants from each other and pot them individually in 3-inch pots. Look up your plant, and get propagating! Each plant type will have specific instructions for the type of soil to use for propagation, lighting, and other requirements. Look to the U of M Extension library or other trusted source for your specific plant. For instance, if you have cacti and Succulents or holiday cacti to propagate, the University offers tips on the environment these plants need to thrive. Propagating can become your creative outlet, too. Learn more about how to display your cuttings of 22 indoor plants and 17 more plants you can propagate from Planteria on YouTube. Propagating plants is fun to do. You can keep and raise the new plants, or share them with others so they can enjoy a little green, too. And remember: your houseplants could even become the next stars in your summer planters. Photo credits: Marie Stolte (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Indulging in the World of Mulching Spring has sprung in Minnesota! Are you thinking about putting mulch in your garden or wondering if you should? Resolve to learn more about mulching in your landscape beds this year. As you wander around your gardens and at the local landscape and garden supply stores, you may wonder which type of mulch to use, where to apply it and what time of year is appropriate for such mulch. Read on to find out the answers to these mulching questions. Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener CATEGORIES OF MULCH ORGANIC Organic mulches are natural materials that decompose over time, adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil and beneficial microorganisms that inhibit plant diseases. The increased amounts of organic matter will improve soil drainage and moisture retention, reduce soil compaction, and attract earthworms. Because organic mulches decompose, they need to be replaced. Depending on the type of mulch used, replacement intervals vary from one to four years. Bark: Available in bags or bulk, bark mulch comes in various particle sizes, ranging from fine to large chunks with some decorative colored/dyed options. This attractive mulch is weed-free and decomposes slowly, with cedar and cypress being the slowest. Use bark mulches around trees, shrubs, and roses, as well as in perennial beds. Photo by Mary Gadek daffodils surrounded by wood mulch Wood Chips: Wood chips from local arborists, municipal facilities, or waste sites are produced by chipping or shredding tree and shrub trimmings. Shredded mulch is less likely to blow or wash away than chips. Wood chips are best used in most landscape plantings, including around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Be aware: Some commercially available wood chips are made by shredding or chipping lumber or pallets. They are an inferior product that breaks down quickly and may contain chemicals. These products are sometimes dyed to mask their origin. Check labels or with your garden center to avoid such products. Wood chips are best used in landscape plantings, such as around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Pine Needles: Pine needle mulch, or pine straw, is light, airy, slow to decompose, and attractive. It lasts several years and can be easily removed, if necessary. Pine needles are slightly acidic, although their effect on soil pH is relatively minor. Use pine needles in the landscape, especially around trees and shrubs, and perennials. Available at local garden centers or under the pine tree in your yard. Photo by Mary Gadek straw mulch in garden Cocoa Beans Shells: Cocoa bean shells or cocoa hulls are a by-product of chocolate production. They are light, easy to handle, and have an attractive brown color with a pleasant aroma. This mulch is more expensive than most, but a depth of 1 to 2 inches is sufficient. Best to use for annuals, large containers, perennials, vegetable gardens, roses and sensory gardens. They typically last about one growing season. WARNING: Dog owners should monitor their dogs closely, as dogs may develop signs of chocolate poisoning if they ingest it. Straw: Wheat, oat, or soybean straw, free of seeds , makes effective short-term mulch for the vegetable garden and strawberry bed as well as overwintering insulation for cold-tender plants. Avoid using it around trees and shrubs as it may provide a winter habitat for mice and other rodents. Sawdust : Sawdust is easy to apply, weed-free, and decomposes slowly. Apply sawdust in vegetable gardens, perennial plantings, or around trees and shrubs. Use saw dust that either has been composted or aged for a year, or a thin layer (1 inch or less) of fresh saw dust, ensuring it doesn't crust over, reducing water infiltration. Watch for nitrogen deficiency (when your plants appear light green to yellow colors and slow growth) when using sawdust due to the high carbon to nitrogen ratio. Refrain from using sawdust from treated lumber. Leaves: Taken right from your own yard, s hred or compost leaves before using them as mulch to prevent matting, reduce their likelihood of blowing away, and speed up decomposition. Utilize for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds, raspberry plantings, and around perennials, trees, and shrubs. However, skip applying for winter mulch for strawberries and herbaceous perennials because they tend to mat down and smother plants. Grass Clippings: Grass clippings decompose quickly, making them ideal for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds or left (without clumps) on your lawn while cutting with an unbagged lawnmower. Let lawn clippings dry before applying to gardens, as fresh clippings may form a dense mat or produce an odor. Avoid using clippings treated with broadleaf herbicide until after two or three mowings. Clippings from weed-infested lawns will contain weed seeds. Newspaper and Cardboard: newspaper and cardboard can be used as mulch (but is often then covered with wood mulch or compost), in vegetable gardens, garden pathways, and around trees and shrubs. Shredded newspapers or whole sheets can be used as mulch. Most newspapers use organic inks, so there is no worry about lead contamination. Avoid waxed cardboard and glossy paper, such as magazine pages. Remove tape and staples from boxes. This link provides additional instructions on how to implement this mulch. Compost: Compost, used alone or with other mulches, like shredded leaves or newspaper, helps improve soil structure, drainage, and fertility, but doesn't suppress weeds as well as other mulches. Compost can be used in nearly all garden settings, including perennial and annual beds, vegetable gardens, and around trees and shrubs. INORGANIC Photo by Mary Gadek Little Bluestem ornamental grass in rock mulch Inorganic mulches, include rock, gravel, rubber or plastic chips, plastic sheeting and landscape fabric . The benefits of inorganic mulches are: warming the soil in the spring or fall, suppressing weeds, limiting soil erosion on steep areas and preventing water infiltration where water is not wanted. However, inorganic mulches do not contribute to building soil fertility or composition, can overheat soil in the summer and often have organic material collected on top of it, leading to weed issues. Inorganic mulches usually are more tedious to install, may require additional irrigation and can be difficult to garden in, making planting, transplanting, and weeding challenging. Rubber or plastic chips eventually decompose, which can release chemical components that are not desirable for healthy soil. Organic mulches placed over landscape fabric can still get weeds and are more likely to wash away. WHEN TO APPLY MULCH In Minnesota, apply mulch i n early spring but wait until the ground warms and perennials emerge. Putting down a layer of mulch too early can further insulate the ground and slow plant emergence. In the fall, mulch can help protect newly planted perennials and other plants from harsh cold temperatures. For late-season applications, apply mulch after plants go dormant, but not too early, as it can delay dormancy and increase the risk of cold damage. BEWARE OF JUMPING WORMS Beware of jumping worms. Once you have chosen the type of mulch, keep reading to learn more about applying mulch to your garden as well as learning about invasive jumping worms which like to reside in mulch. Here is an article about mulch and jumping worms . For more jumping worm prevention, seek out garden centers that use the recommended best practices with their mulch. This is an article about best management practices. Mulching is often a good gardening practice but be mindful of the type of mulch your use and when to use it, in order to obtain the best result. Sources https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/using-mulch-garden https://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/how_to_select_mulch.pdf https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/factsheets/mulch-basics/ https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/prepcare/garden-mulch-and-jumping-worms https://www.mnla.biz/news/677301/2024-Updated-Nursery--Landscape-Best-Management-Practices-BMPs-to-Reduce-Spread-of-Jumping-Worms.htm#:~:text=Only%20use%2C%20sell%2C%20purchase%2C,eggs%20and%20other%20horticultural%20pests . Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1-3)

< Back Holiday Cacti Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are beautiful flowering holiday plants Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are two beautiful flowering holiday plants. They are often given as gifts during the festivities. Believe it or not, these plants are native to Brazil, but have been a favorite indoor plant in the United States for many years. They can live a very long time (100+ years). Some people have trouble getting them to bloom and there are a few tricks one needs to be aware of to produce healthy, vibrant blooms. First, holiday cacti like high humidity and bright, filtered light. They need relatively moist soil with 1 part potting soil, 2 parts peat moss and 1 part sand. They do not tolerate standing in water or extreme cold air drafts. Holiday cacti, however, do need shorter days and cooler nights in order to produce blooms. Placing plants in a cool, bright location where daytime temperatures are 65-70 degrees and evening temperatures are 55-65 degrees will encourage bud development after approximately 5-6 weeks. Once the plants have bloomed, reduce the frequency of watering until spring when there is more active growth. These plants are relatively easy to take care of if you follow these instructions. If you are having trouble with your plants blooming there are usually 3 possible causes (assuming the plant is healthy): Indoor air is too warm: lower the room temperature to 55-65 degrees at night, 60-65 degrees during the day. Plant days are too long: this is usually not an issue in Minnesota if near a window but one can put the plant in total darkness for a minimum of 12 hours. Plant does not have enough nutrients to produce buds. Fertilize the plant at half strength with a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium (0-15-10). For a more comprehensive article about these plants, check out this website: Common Issues with Holiday Cacti Photo credit: Janelle Reitz-Kamenar

< Back Cooking with Native Plants Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. This time of year, Master Gardener Joy Johnson thought you might enjoy trying some recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures – Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding, Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin, pumpkin seeds. Yum! It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. I thought you would enjoy trying a couple of recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures. Several Native American cultures consider wild rice to be a sacred component in their culture. The rice is harvested with a canoe: one person “knocks” rice into the canoe with two small poles (called “knockers” or “flails”) while the other paddles slowly or uses a push pole. For these groups, this harvest is an important cultural (and often economic) event. Commercial cultivation began in the late 1900’s in California and Minnesota. Wild rice has a delicious nutty, hearty flavor and a chewy texture. Today it is mainly cultivated in paddy fields, although I’ve seen traditional harvesting areas in northern Minnesota. Wild rice is primarily a source of carbohydrates and contains a moderately high amount of fiber. It also contains a variety of vitamins (Folate, B2 and B6 are the top 3) and minerals (Copper, Zinc and Magnesium are the top 3). Compared to white rice, wild rice is lower in calories, higher in fiber, sugars, fat and protein as well as Omega-3 and Omega-6. [insert photo 1] Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding Ingredients : Wild Rice part: 4 cups water 1 cup Chippewa wild rice 1 tsp salt ½ tsp vanilla extract Blueberry Mixture: 1 cup blueberries, dried 2 qts Milk 2 Tbsp vanilla extract 16 eggs warmed to room temperature 2 cups sugar Dash freshly grated nutmeg, to taste Instructions for the Wild Rice part : Wash the Chippewa wild rice Put the water, wild rice, vanilla, and salt in a two-quart saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the mixture for 45-60 minutes. Simmer with the cover on and stop when you notice the rice is puffy and the liquid has been completely absorbed. Fluff the rice with a fork and continue cooking with the lid off until any excess liquid evaporates. Set aside. Instructions for the Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding : Oil a large baking pan (13” x 9”) Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Prepare blueberries by pouring enough boiling water over them to cover them and let them soak for five minutes. Place the cooked wild rice and blueberries in the oiled baking pan. Heat the milk and vanilla extract in a saucepan over medium heat, until the milk is scalded. Mix the eggs and sugar in a separate bowl at high speed until the mixture is foamy. Whisk the scalded milk into the eggs until thoroughly blended. Pour the mixture on top of the rice and blueberries and stir it very carefully just until blended. Top with nutmeg as desired. Place it in the oven and bake it for 1 ¼ hours, or until edges are golden brown. Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin Pumpkins are actually considered a fruit, not a vegetable, and belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes cucumbers, melons, squash, and gourds. They did not always appear as they appear today. They resembled something like the Crooked-neck squash of today. Native Americans called pumpkins “isqoutm squash” and used them as a staple in their diets centuries before the Pilgrims landed. A non-food use was drying strips of pumpkin, pounding it flat, then weaving it into mats. They would roast long strips of pumpkin and seeds on the open fire, or it could be boiled, baked and eaten. It could be easily stored and dried for extended use through the long winters. Pumpkins were used to feed livestock and still are. When my family lived on the farm, every November we would haul our trailer to the pumpkin farm down the road and load up all their unsold, old, damaged pumpkins and feed them to our pigs. That pork was tender, delicious and low fat with a slight hint of pumpkin flavor. Ingredients: 1 small pumpkin (use a pie pumpkin, like Baby Bear, Cinderella or Dickenson; this is the pumpkin that Libby uses for its canned pumpkin) ¼ cup maple syrup ¼ cup apple cider ¼ cup butter, melted Instructions for the Pumpkin : Preheat oven to 350 degrees Place whole pumpkin in oven for 1 ½ to 2 hours Remove pumpkin from oven Keep the oven on and maintain 350-degree temperature. Cut a hole in the top and remove it Scoop out the seeds Set seeds aside for later eating Scoop out the pulp into a large bowl Add the maple syrup and apple cider to the pulp, mix well Pour back into pumpkin shell Bake for 35-40 minutes Cut into wedges and serve Instructions for the pumpkin seeds : Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Wash the seeds well Spread evenly, without layering them, onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt Back, checking often until seeds are dried Remove from oven and serve Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back Don’t Let the Snow (or Lack of) Determine Next Year’s Blooms Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Garden Intern It’s October and soon the winter snow will be here, or will it be? We all remember the “lost winter of 2023-2024” when Minnesota received record warmth and lack of snow. Just as a super cold winter can damage your plants, so can a super warm, snowless winter. This article explains why these extreme temperature variations can harm your plants and what you can do to protect them. October is the time to prepare your plants for the winter! In the article *Winterizing Plants: Cold Damage, Julie Weisenhorn, U of MN Extension horticulture educator says, “ Lack of snow cover and dry, droughty conditions negatively influence winter soil temperatures and cause root injury.” In Minnesota, the earth rotates on its axis at about 700 mph. The ground beneath our feet, known as the earth’s lithosphere, is in constant motion also. Yet we don’t “feel the earth move under our feet”, unless an earthquake occurs or you’re Carole King. Instead, we see the effects of this movement. We see it in the passage of a 24-hour day, in the cracks of an asphalt driveway, or the heaving of landscape edging over an extended period of time. We also see the effects it has on our perennials as this heaving occurs. Heaving is the upward movement of soil due to wide temperature fluctuations coupled with the expansion and contraction of moisture (water) within the soil. The tiny root hairs of a plant are microscopic and invisible to the human eye. They are responsible for absorbing water and nutrients for the plant. The freezing and thawing process of heaving, negatively affects these tiny hair roots, resulting in damage or even death to a plant. And at times, if the plant was not properly planted, heaving can push the plant up from the ground exposing its roots to other damaging environmental conditions, such as insects, diseases, and animals. To minimize heat loss in the soil surrounding the plant, and the potential for heaving, winterize your plants with shredded wood mulch. Shredded leaves also provide a good source of organic mulch, as well as pine needles. Four to six inches of mulch will help the soil temperature remain consistent and help prevent heaving. Other helpful considerations for Minnesota gardeners include: Select plants according to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map. Watch “Right Plant Right Place” video series on the U of MN Extension You Tube channel to learn how to give your plants the best start possible. Continue to water your plants until the ground freezes. Water serves as an insulator; well-watered soil retains heat. And as your plants come to life in the spring, they’ll get their first drink of water as the ground thaws. And if possible, mulch after the top one to two inches of the ground has frozen. The mulch helps retain moisture from watering. In summary, to prevent potential root injury, Weisenhorn says, “Snow cover and mulch are good insulators and help keep soil temperatures warmer . . . Soil moisture is important to root and plant health.” So, the big question on many people’s minds is, “Will we get snow this winter or see a repeat performance of the Lost Winter of 2023-2024?” “Hard to say what exactly will happen for the winter of 2024 -‘25, but it would be difficult to have a repeat of the record warmth and the nearly snowless winter of 2023-’24,” says Assistant State Climatologist Pete Boulay, MN DNR. “The Winter Outlook (December-February) from the Climate Prediction Center depicts a slight tendency for below normal temperatures over Northwest Minnesota with equal chances of below normal and above normal temperatures across the rest of the state. There is a slight tilt for above normal precipitation across the eastern half of the state. La Niña is expected to be present this winter. For me, I prepare for the worst and hope for the best!” We can’t control the weather, but we can in part, minimize the effects it has on our plants with proper planning and preparation. Whether it snows or not this coming winter, let’s plant and maintain properly, water sufficiently and mulch so your plants will have a blooming tomorrow. Make sure your plants will be the “Happy Perennials of spring 2025.” To read more on The Lost Winter of 2023-’24, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/lost-winter-2023-24.html . To learn more about the intricacies of a plant root system, log on to https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ . For fun facts about Minnesota weather, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/summaries_and_publications/normalsportal.html . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkaBGry87JE&list=PLyMOSdo2sM9sqq7P8DR8qKV8f_bkPXAgG&index=1 * https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/winterizing-plants-cold-damage Photo Credit: https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back Transplanting Peonies Michelle Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener My grandma’s peonies have accompanied me every time I have moved. They are a treasured memory of my grandma, one of the people who influenced my love of gardening. Every spring, the beautiful and huge pink and white blossoms open, sending their scent out to tickle my memories and remind me of spending time with grandma in her garden. But occasionally, peonies need to be transplanted. Read this article to learn how to divide and transfer peonies the right way. Peonies ( Paeonia sp.), unlike Hosta’s and other perennials, don’t need to be divided frequently. Some experts say peonies only need to be divided once every 10 years and others suggest once in 50 years is sufficient ( UMN Extension Dividing Perennials , K-State Research and Extension , Illinois Extension College of Agricultural, Consumer & Environmental Sciences )! Iowa State University’s Extension Yard and Garden states peonies can live up to 100 years if well maintained ( Iowa State Extension Yard and Garden ). Many people divide them to create additional bushes or to share with others. Dividing peonies is not difficult but there are a few important points to know to be successful. The best time to divide or move peonies is late August through September but it is possible to do it at any time between spring (after the ground thaws) and fall (before the ground freezes). Moving them later than September in the fall is not advised because you need to give the peonies time to get their roots established before the ground freezes. The American Peony Society provides detailed information for digging, dividing, and replanting peonies ( Dividing and Replanting Peonies ). You can either dig the whole plant out or cut out a pie-shaped wedge. If you dig the whole plant out, you should plan to divide it as just moving the whole plant may result in decreased flowering for a couple of years. Peonies grow large, thick storage roots, making it difficult to get the whole extensive system that develops after three or more years of growth. This is important to know because when you dig the plant, you will want to ensure you keep a six-to-ten-inch length of these storage roots for replanting. To dig the whole plant, dig around 8-10 inches out from the plant and go around the whole plant. The first time you dig, you will want to dig straight down in a circle around the plant and the second round of digging should be angled inward. This allows you to undercut the roots. It is not recommended that you pry the roots out; instead, you should continue to go around the plant until you have loosened the whole plant and can lift it. If you try prying the plant out with your shovel or spade, you run the risk of losing good roots because they often break at the tops. Once the plant is dug out, shake off the soil and rinse the roots off. This will help you identify the ‘eyes’ or buds. When you divide the plant or if you elect to take a pie wedge approach, take a 6-8 section and cut straight down, making sure you get a minimum of 1-3 large buds. However, the University of Iowa’s Extension garden program recommends 3-5 large buds ( https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-how-divide-peonies ). If you have fewer than two buds, it can take several years before the peonies will flower again. To cut through the roots, which are tough, use a very sharp knife. If you have only cut a wedge out of a peony plant, fill in the space you cut out with good soil. The remaining plant will close the gap. When you replant the peony / plant, you will want to select a site that receives at least six hours of direct sun and has well-drained soil. Dig about a one-inch-deep hole. Peonies prefer to have their eyes near the surface. If you plant them too deep, the plant will continue to grow but there will be no peony flowers. Whether your goal is to increase the number of peony plants in your own yard or share them with others, following these division steps will help you to end up with more beautiful peonies. Photo Credits: Michelle Scullard 1,3,4 University of Iowa Extension 2

< Back Newby’s Vegetable Garden Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the time when many homeowner’s thoughts turn to gardening. New (or not so new) homeowners may want to start growing their own vegetables but are hesitant because they don’t know how to start. In this clever article, Master Gardener and experienced vegetable gardener, Margie Blare provides loads of good advice to the “Newby” gardener about how to start a vegetable garden. Read this article to start your vegetable gardening adventure. Once upon a time, there was a new gardener named Newby . One day Newby thought, “I would like to have a vegetable garden. Then I’d know where my food comes from and how it was grown. I wonder how I can do that?” With a flash of green, a figure appeared. “I can help!” exclaimed Greenthumb . Newby : “Hi Greenthumb , I have questions like, where should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Choose a spot that gets 6-8 hours of full sun each day. To minimize weeding, consider a raised bed. Keep it simple, perhaps four 2 X 6s nailed together to make a 3 X 8 foot bed. At this width, you can easily reach across it. And, if that spot doesn’t work, you can move it next year.” Newby : “Can I just use the soil from my backyard?” Greenthumb : “It depends! You should get a soil test; watch this video to find out how. Soil tests let you know how much and what kind of fertilizer is needed. It will tell you how much organic matter is in your soil and will give recommendations for healthy plants, with no adverse effects on the environment. You can fill a raised bed with quality soil if your native soil is poor.” Newby : “So, I just put the seeds in the ground?” Greenthumb :” It depends! Some need to be started indoors and others do best when directly seeded.” Read the seed package learn what each type of seeds need. Newby : “When should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Some crops are cool season; such as peas, spinach, lettuce, and many more. Others are warm season; such as cucumbers, beans, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, squash and melons. You need to read the seed package. You can also check out this seed-starting calculator .” Newby : “My neighbor’s tomatoes got all black last year. How can I prevent that?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Check out ‘What’s Wrong with my Plant?’ on the University of Minnesota’s website to find pictures of various diseases and insects that may be affecting your veggies. There are recommendations on what to do. Having good sanitation and plant spacing prevents a number of pest problems. You can also ‘Ask a Master Gardener’ at (612) 301-7590. Leave a message and a Master Gardener will research your questions and get back to you.” Newby : “I heard my neighbor talking about zones. What are they?” Greenthumb : “Plant hardiness zone maps show the temperatures of various places in the state and nation. It is necessary to know your zone when buying small fruits like strawberries and raspberries, and perennial vegetables such as rhubarb, horseradish and asparagus, to make sure the plants you buy can withstand the winters in our area. See the map above to find out your zone.” Newby : “Thanks Greenthumb!” Greenthumb : “Happy Gardening!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1,2,4), Hardiness Map (3)

< Back Tomatoes the Ubiquitous Summer Vegetable BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s not too late to plant tomatoes in Minnesota this summer. But, how do you choose from the many, many brands of tomatoes that are out there. Read this article for very useful information about choosing the right variety of tomato to grow in your garden. It’s June, so likely you have already chosen and planted garden tomatoes. If you’re still debating, you’re at the right place. Let’s review of one of the most popular vegetables raised in home gardens. The tomato, s olanum lycopersicum, Lycopersicon lycopersicum is a member of the nightshade family of plants; most of the family are poisonous. Thank goodness for this tasty, safe to consume relative. World-wide there are 10,000 varieties of these delicious orbs. A small percentage perform very well in Minnesota. Our growing season is challenging given the potential for late frosts, and the wide range of temperatures (hot to hotter) over a short period. Tomatoes are almost any color of the rainbow. Sizes range from cherry, about the size of a thumb tip; to beefsteak, regularly at seven inches in diameter with some weighing nearly a pound or more. So many tomatoes, so little time! To help with choosing the optimal for your garden take a look at the results of 2022 tomato seeds trial of six varieties: Brandywine Marriage Tomatoes Below are some general considerations when choosing varietals. To Heirloom or not to Heirloom An Heirloom tomato carries the best characteristics of tomatoes and have been grown for decades. They have been grown without crossbreeding for at least 40-50 years or more. When you choose heirloom varieties you consistently get what you expect. Heirlooms are reportedly easy for the beginner gardener to grow. They are also often considered to be more flavorful. Hybrid, “normal” tomatoes are carefully bred (human intervention) to have particular characteristics. For example, hybrids have larger yields. They also may be bred to be more resistant to pests and disease. Determinate versus Indeterminate Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain point, then stop. They are bushy, compact, of shorter stature, and generally 2-4 feet tall. They still require some support, like tomato cages. They produce all of their tomatoes at once. The fruits develop on the ends of the branches. Determinate tomatoes are usually labeled as “bush,” “patio,” or “container” - perfect for smaller spaces. There are also dwarf types. Since all the tomatoes on the plant mature simultaneously, they tend to have a shorter growing season. In order to have tomatoes throughout the summer, one must either stagger start dates, or consider planting additional indeterminate tomatoes. Indeterminate plants grow and grow. They are the vine tomatoes most recognized and envisioned when people talk about growing tomatoes. They can grow to lengths of 10-12 feet, therefore, require vertical supports, and lots of them. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruit throughout the season. The fruit grows all along the stems, ripening at different times. This results in a longer growing season and and greater yield than determinate varieties. Regardless of your choices, enjoy the sun-happy tomatoes until the Minnesota frost sweeps them away. Here are two recipes that are often overlooked. First, more than a movie, welcome: Fried Green Tomatoes! Second, the “Southern Tomato Sandwich.” NOTE, Duke’s Mayo is what makes it perfect. Ingredients 2 (½-inch-thick) slices beefsteak tomato ¼ tsp. kosher salt or ⅛ tsp. table salt ¼ tsp. freshly, coarsely ground black pepper 2 slices soft, white sandwich bread 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise, or more!! Directions Arrange tomato slices on a paper towel, sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. Let stand until tops of slices are beaded up with juices, 3 to 5 minutes. Spread one side of each bread slice with 1½ tablespoons mayonnaise. Arrange tomato slices on mayo side of one bread slice: top with other bread slice, mayo slice down. Enjoy the messy, juicy goodness immediately!! I leave you with this final thought in the form of Haiku: Beautiful and firm Sweet summer fruit soaks up sun Delicious to eat Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,2)

< Back Aromatic Aster: That Which We Call an Aster by Any Other Name Would Smell as Sweet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As summer winds down and our garden colors turn to reds and oranges, the blue and yellow of Aromatic Aster is a lovely pleasure. But its good looks aren’t even the best reason to grow Aromatic Aster. Read this article to learn more about why this midwestern native should have a place in your garden. Apologies to The Bard, but Symphyotrichum oblongifolium is known by several appellations including Oblong-Leafed Aster and Aster oblongifolius . Yet by any of these names it remains a fragrant, persistent, cheerful autumnal companion of our Midwestern prairies. You will find aromatic aster in dry, gravelly or rocky prairies, glades and savannas. When crushed, the foliage is pleasantly aromatic. It is relatively easy to grow in any well-drained garden soil in full sun or partial shade. Once established, it usually is a quite hardy native perennial and will frequently self-seed. Being a good grower, it can crowd out less vigorous perennials. If that seems to be happening, you can trim it back through midsummer and still see a nice blooming in the fall when it produces abundant flowers in many shades of purple. Like other members of the Asteraceae family, blooming season is usually from late-August through early-November, although an early hard frost can end the show prematurely. Aromatic aster tends to grow in mounds of 24 to 30 inches in height. Thus, it functions well as a traditional flower border or an informal hedge, putting on a dazzling show in the late fall. It is a favorite of pollinators and creates a valuable fall source of nectar for many species, especially last-of-the-season butterflies. It is hardy in Zones 3 through 8. Thus, most of Minnesota provides a suitable climate. Aromatic aster is pretty much disease resistant although occasionally powdery mildew or lace bugs may be an issue. You may have to stake some of the plants in the fall as their abundant flower heads may otherwise weigh the plant down. Most of the time, however, aromatic aster does wonderfully well if left to its own devices. Photo Credit: Jason Grand www.inaturalist.org

< Back Snowdrops for the Early Spring Garden Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Are you a gardener that loves to have flowering plants staggered throughout the growing season? Then perhaps you should consider planting snowdrops in your yard. They are the first spring bulb to bloom and they are known to pop up amongst the snow melt. They usually bloom before larger daffodils and tulips. Snowdrops (galanthus spp) are a member of the amaryllis family. However, they are a small, delicate-looking, single bloom white bell-shaped flower with several green upright leaves. They are native to Southern Europe and Asia Minor and are found in woodlands or wet, alpine grasslands of cool mountainous regions. Most are hardy in Zone 5 but some varieties range to Zone 2. The common variety for Minnesota is 3 to 6 inches tall. Of note, Giant snowdrops are not as hardy (Zones 4/5). Where to Plant Snowdrops should be planted in groups of up to 25 to be really seen. Plant them under deciduous trees or shrubs or near walkways where they can be visible in early spring when the snow is melting. They can even be planted in your grass but then you shouldn’t mow over them until 6 weeks after blooming. They go well combined with Siberian Squill, early small Daffodils, Winter Aconte, and Glory of the Snow. Some people also plant them in indoor containers and force them to bloom. How to Plant Plant them 3 inches apart and 3 inches deep in rich, well-drained soil in early fall when the night temperatures are in the 40s or 50s. Consider fertilizing them in the spring when shoots first appear. Pros and Cons Pros: First to bloom in Spring gets you looking forward to the growing season. They do not have any significant insect or disease issues and are deer resistant like daffodils. Cons: Snowdrops are poisonous if ingested by pets or children. To avoid skin irritations, gardeners should wear gloves when handling them. Sources: University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/snowdrops-galanthus-spp/ Penn State Extension: https://extension.psu.edu/snowdrops Photo Credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin (1,2,3)