< Back Is it Time for Houseplants? Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern It’s December. Everything in the garden is dead or hibernating. Assuming you did your fall clean-up in the yard, cleaned and sharpened your tools for next year and planted your spring bulbs, there is nothing to do in the garden. Feeling lost? Maybe it’s time to consider houseplants. There are many attractive flowering and foliage plants that are happy to grow indoors, even in low light. It is an opportunity to continue gardening in December and onwards, albeit on the smaller scale. Some of the plants you might want to consider during the winter months ahead are listed below. For an excellent resource for care instructions for all of these plants, check out this University of Minnesota site . Possibly the most famous of the easy-to-care-for, low-light plants is Snake Plant (Dracaena trifasciata - formerly Sansevieria). A foliage plant with variegated leaves that can grow from 4 inches to 4 feet tall, snake plant is also drought tolerant. Its flowers resemble small lilies and are very fragrant. None of mine ever bloomed in my lifetime or theirs, but even without flowers the snake plant can make a dramatic statement in your house. Snake Plant Another easy-to-care-for low light plant is the ZZ (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) . So beloved by commercial nurserymen that they named it ‘Plant of the Year’ in 2002, the ZZ is a slow-growing plant with solid green foliage that reaches between 1 to 3 feet tall. It has natural glossy leaves that are so shiny some have remarked that they “appear polished”. ZZ is also drought tolerant. In fact, it can go 3 to 4 months without watering! It will grow in any well drained or bark based potting soil. People who like to tell you how bad they are at raising plants may say they killed one, but unless they overwatered it, that is almost impossible. The ZZ thrives on neglect - after planting it, NEGLECT IT! Would you like an indoor palm for a gloomy corner of your home? Well, you can have one. In fact, you can have two! Neanthe Bella Palm or Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) , is a slow-growing palm that can reach several feet in height. It likes to be slightly dry, so be careful not to overwater it. Lady Palm or Rhapis Excelsa requires a bit of bright but indirect light and is an extremely slow-growing palm although it can grow to 15 feet tall and wide over the course of several years. And there are more! Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) is a striking plant with green foliage edged in red or pink. Some cultivars can reach 2 to 3 feet in height. They perform admirably in conditions too dark for most other tropical plants. Chinese Evergreen tolerates moist to slightly dry soil in-between watering. Chinese Evergreen Unsurpassable for dependable, dark green foliage in very lowlight conditions, Cast Iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has glossy, coarse-textured leaves and grows in large, leafy clumps. It flowers periodically throughout the year. Although Cast Iron plant is susceptible to leaf-spotting diseases it is very resistant to insect pests. Variegated Cast Iron Plant And let us not forget flowering plants. If you are a fan of tulips, daffodils, crocus and hyacinths, you can create a spring garden for winter viewing because these spring bulbs can be grown indoors. Called “forcing”, spring bulbs will grow indoors if you give them 12-13 weeks of cold. (Click here for an article on growing bulbs indoors). African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) are low maintenance, flowering house plants that are easy to grow, even in low light. With proper care they will flower reliably several times a year. The elegant Peace Lily is another flowering plant that is easy to grow. It thrives in low to medium light and requires minimal watering. It also improves indoor air quality by removing common toxins and pollutants like formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from the air. Peace Lily NOTE : Peace Lily leaves, if eaten in large quantities, are poisonous to humans, cats and dogs. The exotic flowering hibiscus is also easy to grow and makes a beautiful houseplant as long as you meet its requirements. Native to Mexico, poinsettias are a flowering plant available around the holidays. Their colorful bracts, which look like petals, come in a variety of colors - red, white, cream, and pink - and the bracts can be single or double. Although usually used for decorating during the Christmas holidays, poinsettias are also attractive as green plants throughout the year. Click here for information on growing poinsettias indoors. Poinsettias PLANT SOURCES : Nurseries and big box stores are sources for houseplants but there are others. If you are looking to make an impact on a budget, consider some non-traditional sources for plants. Grocery stores are often overlooked as plant sources. Although noted for selling poinsettias during the holiday season, grocery stores also periodically sell large foliage plants at reasonable prices. In addition, that purveyor of all, Amazon , also sells reasonably potted plants. Other sources are plant society sales, which you can Google, and county chapters of MN Extension (Dakota County’s plant sale is in the spring). One of my favorite sources for plants is IKEA , where I purchased a 2 foot snake plant for $20 less than a year ago (it is now almost as tall as I am!). IKEA also sells other large houseplants very reasonably. PLANT CARE : Now that you have purchased your houseplants, you need to keep them ALIVE! The most common killer of indoor plants is overwatering or TMC (too much care). Know your plants’ requirements and follow them. Drought tolerant plants, such as snake plant and ZZ, can go a month or more without watering. Watering them more frequently will kill them. If you can’t keep track of when to water drought-tolerant plants, water them on a schedule - the first or last of every month, for example - or you can test the soil for dryness or moisture. Other houseplant killers are drafts from heating systems or air conditioners. Place your plants away from these. And don’t forget that fireplaces and appliances are heat sources too. Placing you plant next to a fireplace may look attractive but probably not for long. Too much or too little light can also kill houseplants or make them look “leggy”. If a plant requires bright sun and you have none, don’t try to grow it. Match your indoor lighting to your plant. There are multiple low and medium light plants, some of which we have listed in this article. As dismal as December and winter in general can be, houseplants can bring color and greenery indoors and keep your hand in. If you fit their requirements to the light you have available and provide good care, houseplants will reward you. They will allow you to wait out the winter cheerfully until you can get back into your outdoor garden. REFERENCES “Lighting for Indoor plants and starting seeds”, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#low-light-plants-1622110 Bradly, Nicole and McAlpine, Lynn, “31 Best Low-Light Indoor Plants to Brighten Up Your Home”, Better Homes and Gardens , https://www.bhg.com/gardening/houseplants/projects/indoor-plants-for-low-light/ Brown, Deborah L. “Growing Citrus Plants Indoors”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/growing-citrus-indoors Weisenhorn,Julie, “Growing Bulbs Indoors”: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors ). Weisenhorn, Julie, “African Violets”: https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/african-violets “ASPIDISTRA ELATIOR CAST IRON PLANT”, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP053 “AGLAONEMA MODESTUM: CHINESE EVERGREEN”, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP025 “Hibiscus”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/hibiscus Neanthe Bella Palm, Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans), http.gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/outreach/plant_id/flowers_indoor/neanthe_bella_palm.html Rhapis Excelsa or Lady Palm, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP501 Weisenhorn, Julie, “Growing and caring for poinsettia”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/poinsettia “Spathipyllum”, https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/ Weisenhorn, Julie, “Watering houseplants”, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/watering-houseplantsSpathiphyllum” , https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/ “CULTURAL GUIDELINES FOR COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION OF INTERIORSCAPE ZZ (ZAMIOCULCAS ZAMIIFOLIA), https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP252 “ZZ Plant”, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/zz-plant.html Photo Credit: North Carolina Extension (1), Flickr (2), Susan Ball (3), Wikipedia (4)

< Back March is a Great Time to Prune Many Trees and Shrubs Sally McNamara, Master Gardener Don’t let the fact that there is still snow on the ground deter you from getting outside and pruning the trees and shrubs in your yard that need it. Late winter and early spring is the best time to prune most trees and shrubs. This article will provide some advice on how to go about it to make your plants and yourself pleased with the result. Don’t let the fact that there is still snow on the ground deter you from getting outside and pruning the trees and shrubs in your yard that need it. Late winter and early spring is the best time to prune most trees and shrubs. This article will provide some advice on how to go about it to make your plants and yourself pleased with the result. Believe it or not, the biggest mistake with pruning shrubs is being too conservative. While it is certainly possible to REMOVE too much, most pruners LEAVE too much. The other major mistake is not using sharp, effective pruning tools. Cutting is easier and better for the plant with the right size sharp tool. Disinfecting tools with a disinfecting wipe between plants is ALWAYS a good idea to prevent any potential for disease spread. There are 5 reasons to prune: 1) Remove diseased, damaged or dangerous material 2) Develop a strong framework for growth 3) Improve air circulation and fruit production 4) Improve a plant’s shape 5) Control size - although planting the right-sized plant initial is a better solution Timing Most pruning of both trees and shrubs is best done in late winter/early spring when the plants are just coming out of dormancy, the form of the plant without the leaves is visible, and the sap is beginning to flow. Sap moving into the pruning wounds helps the healing process and prevents drying out of the plant material. Winter winds will extract moisture from the plant through the pruning cuts so fall is NOT a good time to prune. The one big exception to this rule is maples and birch which can be pruned after the spring sap flow has slowed. Spring flowering plants should typically be pruned AFTER they flower. Summer and fall bloomers are best pruned in the late winter/early spring. Pruning during the growing season opens the plant to disease and insect damage. Oaks especially should not be pruned between April and August to avoid the picnic beetle which spreads oak wilt. Plant material damaged by storms, etc. should be removed as soon as possible if it could cause harm to people or structures. Diseased or insect damaged material should be removed to limit spread of the problem. Discarding of diseased material should be done with care - bag and discard in the trash for small amounts. Transfer to a facility that composts material to a proper temperature for larger quantities. Proper cuts The magic words in pruning are “branch collar” followed by “branch bud”. Using the t hree-cut method to remove most of the branch weight before complete removal is important on large branches to prevent ripping the bark down the tree. Branches should always be cut back to the branch collar and cut cleanly at that point. Cutting further in or leaving a stump out decreases the tree’s ability to grow protective bark over the wound and increases the chance of disease and insect damage. Smaller branches should be cut at a bud point to encourage growth and not leave material for decay. When pruning away dead material, prune well back to living material. General pruning of shrubs should be done to improve overall plant health. Recommended. Removing old growth to the trunk or soil results in a refreshed plant, such as pictured below. Discouraged. Shearing the plant encourages more growth in the top part, limiting light and air to the interior, causing dead inner branches. An excellent reference book on pruning is ESSENTIAL PRUNING TECHNIQUES: Trees, Shrubs, Conifers by George E. Brown and Tony Kirkham. So, put on your warm jacket and boots and give your trees and shrubs a proper haircut before the warm days of spring! Photo credits: theiowagardener.com (1), Alden Land Nursery Livermore CA (2), thisoldhouse.com (3, 4, 5)

< Back Sugar maple (Acer saccharum): A Sweetheart Year ‘Round Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener With this article, Jim Lakin is launching a series on native Minnesota trees. The first of these trees is the sugar maple. Few native trees are as iconic as the sugar maple. This tree has so many attractive characteristics that it is widely revered across many northern states. In this article, you will learn why you might want a sugar maple in your yard and how to give it the care that it needs to become a beautiful specimen tree. Few native trees are as iconic as the sugar maple. As a kid, I was fascinated by those hearty Vermonters tapping this noble tree for its sugary sap, boiling it down to the delicious maple syrup that graced my morning pancakes. Indeed, the sugar maple is so much a part of Americana that it is the official tree of no less than four states—New York, Vermont, Wisconsin and West Virginia. Its leaf graces the center of Canada’s flag. Also reflecting is ubiquity in folk usage, it is known alternately as "rock maple," "sugar tree," "sweet maple," "hard maple," "bird’s eye maple," or "curly maple”. As you might expect for such a noble species, its distribution is wide ranging from the Eastern Seaboard, westward into central Minnesota, Iowa, the Ozarks and up the Missouri River Valley into Kansas. Sugar maple is shade tolerant, so it quickly gains a foothold in the understory of mesic woodlands. It can be grown from seed, if you are patient. However, if you are transplanting a sapling, be sure that your specimen is locally sourced. It is a highly variant plant and adapts to local conditions stringently. An “outsider” will often not fare as well as one of the natives of the area. The sugar maple is a fine shade tree albeit a huge one. When siting your planting be aware that it can ultimately grow to 60 to 100 feet in height with a circumference that will vary depending on its neighbors. Although it can grow and dominate an understory, it doesn’t stay there! Another consideration is that it is a deciduous tree. All those wonderful red-yellow fall leaves will drop come winter. Also, in the spring you’ll see a vigorous production of samaras, pairs of winged seeds. So, if you are trying to maintain one of those squeaky-clean suburban lawns, keep your rake at-the-ready! Sugar Maple is a long-lived tree, persisting for 200 years and occasionally 300. It will bear seeds at about 30 years and should not be tapped for sap until about 50 years of age. Since it does require a hard frost for proper dormancy, it is not seen in proliferation beyond USDA zones 3 to 5. Although well-adapted to its native environment, human activity has taken a toll on the sugar maple population. Air pollution, acid rain and soil acidification have decimated many populations. Street salting has destroyed sugar maples as street trees, leading to their replacement with the more tolerant non-native Norway Maple. Givern these limitations, however, the sugar maple will grow well in a variety of soils, although good drainage is a must. It is not a flood plain tree. It is a fairly rapid grower, so in a few years with relatively little care, you will be rewarded with a luscious shade-tree and a glorious blaze of fall color. Photo Credits: https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37003644 (1), https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37003638 (2)

< Back Green Beans for the Holidays – Should You Plant Pole or Bush Green Beans Next Year? Are you one of the 20 million people who enjoyed green bean casserole for Thanksgiving dinner? If you plant green beans in your garden this summer, you can preserve and use your home-grown green beans in your next Thanksgiving meal. In this article, you will learn more about your green bean planting options and how to choose which beans to grow and enjoy. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Many of us choose to adorn our holiday tables with the classic Green Bean Casserole (French cut green beans, fried onions, and mushroom soup). For trivia types, this casserole was first created in 1955 by Dorcas Reilly while employed at the Campbell Soup Company. As of 2020, Campbells estimated that approximately 20 million U. S. Thanksgiving dinners include this dish each year. That’s a lot of beans! And a reason to contemplate growing green beans next gardening season and then freezing them for the holiday season. Read more to determine if you should plant the Pole or Bush type green beans. Green Beans are also referred to as Snap Beans or String Beans and are a member of the wax bean family. And not to confuse people, but string beans can also be yellow, red, striped, and even purple (the purple disappears when cooked)! Growing green beans in your garden has many benefits; to name a few: · Easy to grow especially for young children as the larger seed size makes it easier to plant and the long green bean makes it easier for them to see to harvest; · Excellent companion plant to tomatoes as they put nitrogen back into the soil; · Can be grown in smaller spaces but require full sun; and · Excellent source of nutrition (low in calories, high in antioxidants including Vitamin C and fiber). In general, there are two types of these beans for gardeners to consider: Pole vs. Bush beans. Pole Beans, simply put, are vining plants which must be supported by a trellis, pole, or fence. They can grow up to 6 to 7 feet long. Bush beans are low growing plants that grow 1 to 2 feet tall only. So which type is better to plant: Advantages of Bush Beans: · No trellis or pole is required; · Great for compacted, raised beds; · Have a shorter production time (usually harvest within 50 to 55 days vs. 55 to 65 days for pole beans) · Produce all their beans within a short time (2 to 3 weeks) which is great for freezing and can stagger planting times for additional harvests Advantages of Pole Beans: · More productive than bush beans (in a 10-foot row space, pole beans can yield 8 pounds of produce compared to bush beans at 4 to 5 pounds) · Have a longer harvest window if you prefer to eat them fresh (continually harvest them). · Less susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew · Have a better flavor than bush beans (sweeter and starchier) · Easier to harvest (gives your back a break) · Excellent companion plant to corn and squash/cucumber or with a teepee system you can plant lettuce, parsley, or radishes in the center. So, while you are enjoying your holiday feast, remember to dream about the upcoming planting season and decide if you are going to plant pole vs. bush string beans next year! Sources: · Green Bean Casserole, Wikipedia.org · WebMD Health Benefits of Green Beans. November 28, 2022 · JohnnySeeds.com About Pole Beans · Iowa State Extension and Outreach, Which is more productive, bush or pole green beans? Photo credits: www.Flickr.com (1,2), Davidbach.net , All Creative Commons (3)

< Back Planning Your Garden for Next Year Begins Now! The active, outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. After you clean up your garden and put your clean tools away, take some time to reflect on how your garden performed this season. Aren’t there always some improvements to be made? What sort of corrective or preventive strategies might you implement to make next year even better? Read this article for a reminder of some gardening fundamentals that may help you attain gardening success next year. Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The active, outdoor gardening season is coming to a close. After you clean up your garden and put your clean tools away, take some time to reflect on how your garden performed this season. Aren’t there always some improvements to be made? What sort of corrective or preventive strategies might you implement to make next year even better? The Master Gardeners in Dakota County grow gardens that trial vegetable and flower varieties for the UMN Extension. Much of the produce from these gardens is delivered to local food shelves so success is important. These gardeners also review garden wins and disappointments as they consider future practices. In early fall I chatted with Master Gardeners at one of the seed trial and community gardens about their gardening practices. Of course, every year is different. While drought was an issue last year, this year the impacts of a very wet year were top of mind. Even so, the team kept returning to fundamental practices. This article will encourage you to look at your garden through the lens of these practices. And I’ll share some reflections from the seed trial garden. Fundamental Practices 1. Start with quality seeds and plants Locate reputable sources through research. Look at their growing practices and ask other gardeners for their favorite sources. Are your plants suitable for our northern climate? ( Hardiness zones 5a (in some places) and above ) Look for disease resistance or tolerance, especially if disease has been a problem. If purchasing plants locally, look for signs of insects and disease. “Reject any plant with dark, discolored or soft sunken spots on leaves, stems or roots.” UMN Extension 2. Maintain a healthy, living soil - Add organic materials to your soil in combination with soil testing. Know your soil. UMN extension recommends testing every 3-5 years. I am 100% convinced I need a soil test for my garden because the same plant that struggled in my garden produced beautiful red peppers in a new garden bed! You can obtain a soil test through the UMN soil testing lab for a small fee. The test will give you the estimated soil texture, pH (acidity), percent of soil organic matter and levels of phosphorus(P) and potassium(K). There are optimal levels of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus, and Potassium for plant growth. For example, too much nitrogen can stunt growth and, in some plants, may encourage leaf growth but delay fruiting. Finally, the soil test will recommend soil amendments and fertilizers that address any deficiencies that are found. Add organic matter as needed. A common practice is to add a couple inches of compost each year. Consider cover crops . Do frequent health checks - disease and pests can establish very quickly. Remove diseased material immediately and clean your tools. Only fully composted disease-free compost should be returned to the garden. Rotate Crops. Diseases are usually shared within a plant family. Did you know peppers and tomatoes and eggplant are in the same Solanaceae (nightshade) family? UMN extension references: Soil testing for lawns and gardens Compost and soil organic matter: “The more, the merrier?” Living soil, healthy garden 3. Maintain moist but not water-logged soil Moisture is tightly coupled with soil health. Saturated soil can lead to nitrogen loss and flooding can prevent the roots from taking up oxygen and other nutrients. Assess watering practices in the garden - Watering from above can cause disease to splash up from the soil and over saturate plant material. Soaker hoses are one option to minimize spread of diseases. Improve drainage as needed – One strategy to control water is raised beds. Forming raised beds ensures good drainage, which is more crucial for some plant families. An example of this is the Gourd family (Cucurbitaceae): cucumber, melon, summer and winter squash, pumpkin and gourd. Use mulch wisely. Mulch keeps soil moist longer and helps maintain healthy soil by limiting loss of nutrients from runoff. Use mulch that is both disease and chemical free (e.g. wet mulch may be diseased and avoid grass clippings from a treated lawn). UMN extension references: Watering the Vegetable Garden Raised Bed Gardens Fertilizing and Watering Container Plants 4. Maintain airflow between plants - Be generous with spacing. Provide appropriate structure to maximize airflow and keep produce off the ground. Take into consideration the weight of produce and the spacing increments; for example, a pole bean loves twining around a string, peas love some chicken wire and tomatoes need a good strong cage. Get these in place early and keep an eye out, as plants often need ‘training’. Prune as needed. An indeterminate tomato plant, for example, will keep growing. Prune plants if crowding impacts airflow and sunlight. UMN extension references: Trellises and Cages to support garden vegetables Preventing Plant Diseases in the Garden 5. Invite pollinators in Combining vegetables and flowers in one area is becoming more common. Mixing not only helps with plant pollination but provides more color and variety, keeping the garden beautiful and supporting beneficial insects. See article “ Companion Gardens are the Best ” And finally, what reflections on the year did the seed trial and community garden gardeners come up with? In general, it was a very wet year and overall production was lower than previous years. Beans struggled early but rebounded in late summer as the sun returned and the soil was no longer saturated. Despite valiant efforts to manage squash beetles and limit impact of mildew and other disease, squash and cucumber plants eventually succumbed. Tomato and pepper plants started slow but were very productive in the long run despite some tomato blight. A mulch of loose, not too dense straw was a good choice and plants were spaced for sufficient airflow. Cocoa mulch smelled delicious but became wet, compressed and slick from the rain. Flowers and pollinators were abundant and admired. At the end of September, the team is still delivering quality produce to the food shelf: And that is success! I hope in this recap of gardening fundamentals you will find a couple of helpful strategies to try next gardening season. Each year is a bit of an adventure - expect the unexpected, learn and be willing to adapt. Happy gardening! If you need assistance beyond the articles provided, try these resources: Contacts for yard and garden: Ask a Master Gardener Diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases and nonliving factors: What’s wrong with my plant? Photo Credits: Alyce Neperud (1,3-8), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Shade Gardens Susan Ball, Dakota Gardener Master Gardener Shade – a gardener’s headache? Does your garden require full sun to be beautiful? NO! While most flowers do require hours of full sun, there are attractive foliage plants and even colorful flowering plants that flourish in shade. As you start to plan your garden for 2025, this article gives you lots of ideas for how to make the most of the areas of your yard that are a bit sun challenged. Shade. A gardener’s headache. All the beautiful and brilliantly colored plants require hours of sun. What’s left is dull and colorless. Not true! While most flowers do require hours of full sun, there are attractive foliage plants and even colorful flowering plants that flourish in shade. First off, know that there are different levels of shade, from part to deep. Deep or full shade means a spot never gets direct sunlight, or only a very short amount of mild, morning sunshine. Part shade means about 4 hours of sun—but mostly morning sun, not blazing-hot afternoon sun. To garden successfully in the shade, know the size of your planting area, your cold hardiness zone (in Dakota County and most of middle Minnesota that would be zone 4), your shade level and your soil conditions. You also need to know if you want to grow perennials - which regrow every year - or annuals - which live for one growing season and then die. (You can grow both). With this information in hand, you can select your plants. If you haven’t heard of that shade “staple”, the hosta, know that hostas - perennials with leaves in many color combinations and textures - are not only easy to grow but can survive in deep shade. They even have flowers, usually violet but white as well. While many hostas prefer part shade - particularly those with gold tones and those with edging or centers of white or cream - “blue” hostas need deep shade to protect the waxy coating on their leaves. Hostas can grow in a wide range of soils, although they prefer moist soils rich in organic matter. While spring is the preferred planting time, hostas can be planted all summer. Be sure to give them extra water then so the roots develop without drying out. Other shade plants include Lenten rose, Jacob’s ladder, astilbe, Dutchman’s breeches and its relative, bleeding hearts . . . and shrubs such as hydrangeas and rhododendrons. Many native plants, especially the spring blooming ones, are also shade lovers. Lenten Roses , also known as Hellebores , are shade plants producing delicate, long-lasting flowers in late winter and early spring. They need little to no moisture and are hardy to zone 4. These are the pluses. Although lovely, a major minus is that these flowers hang downward under their leaves so you must practically stand on your head to see and enjoy them. They can be found at nurseries or ordered online. Dutchmen’s breeches (their delicate white flowers look like breeches hanging on a clothes line), their relative Bleeding hearts and lily of the valley, tiny, bell-like flowers with a beautiful fragrance, are other spring perennials you might want to add to your shade garden. All are hardy in zone 4 and require similar conditions: shade, little to no moisture and well-drained soil. Bleeding Heart Then there are native plants, most of which thrive in shade. Spring Beauty, which, as the name suggests, blooms in the spring, Lady’s Slipper, Jack-in-the Pulpit, Trillium (big white flowers) and May Apples all love shade. Generally, not available at big box stores, look for these charming natives at native plant nurseries or online. There are also summer blooming shade flowers to consider. Brunnera is a perennial with tiny blue flowers that loves shade but does not tolerate droughts or dry soil. As long as you water it and keep it away from too much sun, it will bloom beautifully. It is hardy to zone 3. Jack Frost Brunnera Another perennial with tiny flowers, coral bells , also grows in shade and has a variety of colored foliage. This delicate blooming plant joins foam flower, Jacob’s ladder and astilbes, additional summer blooming shade perennials. All of these plants need to be well-watered, especially when growing under tree shade (which can dry them out). Foam flowers have small, poofy flowers that grow in clusters and like partial and full shade. Be careful not to underwater or overwater foamflower - both are fatal. Jacob’s Ladder has attractive blue and purple flowers and has the added bonus of being rabbit and deer resistant. Astilbes grow large (up to 5 feet depending on the variety), and have showy plumes of tiny flowers in shades of pink, red, white and royal blue that will liven up any shady area. They are also, reportedly, deer resistant. If you are looking for a shade loving plant that will also attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden Black Bugbane is your flower. These fragrant, tall, fluffy flowers sport dark purple leaves that will turn white by the end of the summer. Grow them in partial to full shade with medium moisture. Then there are the annuals. Among those you may want to consider are coleus , a leafy plant with incredible colored leaves: pink and green, purples and yellow and dark reds and almost everything in-between. Impatiens are another pretty annual in multiple colors - red, pink, orange, white and violet. These plants bloom well in shade but are susceptible to dry conditions so be sure to keep them well watered. Shade begonias , with similar colored flowers - except orange and violet - have smaller flowers but are studier plants, tolerating some dryness. Coleus Heartbreaker There are beautiful shrubs that tolerate partial to full shade as well. Check out white hydrangeas, single and double flowered rhododendrons and their relatives, the azaleas . All these shrubs have beautiful and abundant flowers in multiple colors and can be found at most big box stores. Shade, even deep shade, is no reason for a gardener to despair. With planning, a combination of annuals, perennials and shrubs will provide texture and color in shade from spring through fall. REFERENCES “HOSTAS”, https://extension.umn.edu/search?q=hostas in Minnesota Sansone, Arricca, “25 Best Shade Perennials That Thrive Out of the Sun”, https://www.countryliving.com/gardening/garden-ideas/g24882877/shade-perennials/ ? Spring Hill Nursery, “Astilbes”, https://springhillnursery.com/pages/astilbe_growing_tips_and_benefits Spring Hill Nursery, “Jacob’s Ladder”, https://springhillnursery.com/products/touch-of-class-jacobs-ladder ? Weisenhorn, Julie, GARDENING IN THE SHADE, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,5), CallyL, Pixabay (2), www.flickr.com (3,4)

< Back Earth Month is for Everyone! Kasha Zeman, Dakota County Master Gardener It is now April and that means EARTH MONTH! While many of us think about growing, planting, tending, and gardening all year long, if you are like me, that doesn’t always include water conservation, energy conservation, cleaning up my neighborhood, etc. The month of Earth Month is a reminder that we can do better to help preserve and cherish planet Earth. For the little ones in our lives, it is never too early (or too late) to teach them how to become better caretakers of mother nature. Please read on to find activities to do with the young people in your life during the month of April (and the other 11 months too!). April is Earth Month, but how did it become Earth Month? Actually, it didn’t start as Earth Month. It started as Earth Day. In 1970, a senator by the name of Gaylord Nelson, knowing there weren’t laws in the United States to protect the earth’s resources, created awareness about the issue. It was decided that in April of 1970 people in the United States were going to gather and have demonstrations about the deterioration of earth’s resources and the need for protection of our air, water, trees, animals, land etc. On April 22, 1970, over twenty million people across the nation participated in the first ever Earth Day. People at colleges, universities, high schools, middle schools, elementary schools, and communities gathered to address the importance of protecting the Earth. From then on, we have celebrated Earth Day every April 22. But, as we know, this has grown to into celebrating Earth Month every April! Earth Month Activities There are so many activities that can be done to help improve and conserve Earth’s resources. This article is going to focus on a few specific things for us to do with the kids in our lives by conserving water, conserving energy, planting trees, and cleaning up garbage. Conserving water Water is one of our most precious resources. Even though about seventy percent of the earth’s surface is covered by water, only about three percent is fresh water. Of that three percent of fresh water, only about one percent of that water can be used as drinking water. Depending on the age of the children in your lives, percentages can be very abstract and hard to understand. So, try this activity with them. Gather 100 rocks, pebbles, acorns, pinecones, crayons…really anything small and easy to collect. Explain that these 100 items represent Earth’s surface. Then count out 30 items and set them off to one side. Explain that these thirty items are the ground we stand on, the trees we see, the buildings we shop in, the schools we attend, the parks we play at, etc. Then show the remaining 70 items. Explain that these 70 items represent the rest of earth’s surface, and it is all water! Even though it is water, most of it isn’t fresh water. Explain that there is a difference between fresh water and salt water. Depending on your comfort level, you may even add a bit of table salt to a glass of water and have everyone try a small sip to see how undrinkable it is. Next, of those remaining 70 items, remove three. Explain that out of those 70 items, these three represent the only fresh water we have on earth, the lakes and rivers we enjoy swimming and fishing in. Finally, remove one item and explain that this one item represents the only drinkable water we have on Earth. Because there is so little drinkable water on Earth, that is why it is so precious and why we need to conserve it. Ways to Conserve Water Turn off the faucet while washing hands and brushing teeth. Take quick showers. No more than 5 minutes. When rinsing dishes, don’t turn the faucet on full strength. Use rain barrels for watering plants and flowers outdoors. If you are a homeowner and don’t already have a rain barrel, Dakota County has information regarding how you can build your own through this link . If you would like a rain barrel, but do not want to build your own, you can purchase one at a discounted price, while supplies last, from the Recycling Association of Minnesota . (They sell compost bins too! Conserving Energy In an ideal world we would all use energy produced only by the sun, wind, and water. But until that becomes more economically possible for all of us, here are a few simple ways to conserve energy. Turn off lights whenever you leave a room. Regarding your house temperature, turn your thermostat off whenever the weather is comfortable and open your windows. During the winter months, turn the thermostat down to a lower temperature at night. During the summer months, turn the thermostat up a few degrees. Even a few degrees makes a big difference! Close the blinds during really hot and really cold days. This will keep your air conditioner and furnace from having to work constantly. Ride your bike to school and work. Plan to have to leave a bit early and come home a little later. You will save on gas money and get exercise too! This next one is one of my favorite energy conserving activities to do with my own kid - have a light and electronics free day! When we have one of those rare days where no one has any planned activities, we sometimes have a light and electronics free day. We don’t turn on any overhead lights or lamps. You won’t be able to avoid a completely light free day because of the refrigerator, microwave, oven, garage door, etc. However, we unplug what we can and put tape over all the light switches, in case we forget. We tuck our iPads, laptops, and phones away, and prepare for a day outdoors and playing games by candlelight. Planting Trees Planting trees is a great way to help the environment and create cleaner air. An average 50-year-old mature tree can produce enough oxygen for 4 people to breathe a year! In addition, trees take in greenhouse gases and remove particle matter from our air. So, not only do we get oxygen from trees, but they also remove toxins that are unhealthy for us. Trees also provide shade and can help to reduce energy costs that come from using air conditioners in the summer. You can purchase trees from local greenhouses in various sizes and species. Often around Arbor Day, which is Friday, April 26 th this year, many organizations will give away free tree seedlings. Also, if you have a large area for which you are looking to plant trees, seedlings may be purchased in bulk - 50 seedlings per order from the Arbor Day Foundation . In addition, if you are part of an organization such as a school, library or youth group you can sign your organization up with “Neighborhood Forest.” This organization provides free tree seedlings to children. Once the organization is registered, parents can sign their kiddos up to get a free seedling. Cleaning up Garbage When I was in elementary school, we had a student group called the Green Team. One thing our students organized, was a school-wide community clean up. The teachers, volunteers, and students went out with gloves and garbage bags and cleaned up trash in our community. This is an easy activity for a family or a neighborhood to do together. Afterward, you can recycle anything that is allowed at your local recycling center and throw away the rest. Most times, when my family takes our dog for a walk, we bring a bag with us and pick up trash as we go. Community clean-up doesn’t have to be once a year or just in the month of April. We can all, including our children, participate in making our environment cleaner and healthier. April – Earth Month – is the perfect time to inspire your children - and yourselves! Resources https://www.nature.org/en-us/what-we-do/our-priorities/build-healthy-cities/cities-stories/benefits-of-trees-forests/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncWvBhD_ARIsAEb2HW9Trl1lPBpLAgcSGf1wG1iA5BEswP_MZMQSoin46BvbaRKXjAw3ld4aAn8iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/forestry/nursery/pricelist.html https://www.neighborhoodforest.org/ https://www.epa.gov/history/epa-history-earth-day#:~:text=There%20were%20no%20legal%20or,U.S.%20cities%2C%20and%20it%20worked ! https://www.epa.gov/archive/epa/aboutepa/earth-day-70-what-it-meant.html https://www.co.dakota.mn.us/Environment/WaterResources/Stormwater/Pages/rain-barrels.aspx https://recycleminnesota.org/compost-bins-rain-barrels/ Photo Credit: Flickr (1,3,4), Picryl (2)

< Back How to Share Your Plants Safely Sharing plants from our gardens is a common and gratifying practice among gardeners. But in these times, we must know how to share plants safely. Safe from what? Jumping worms have become a significant and difficult problem for Minnesota gardens. This particular type of worm has the ability to ravage your garden soil and weaken or kill your plants. This article will help you learn more about this pest and show you how you can still share your plants safe from the spread of jumping worms. Mary Gadek, Master Gardener The Dakota County Master Gardener Plant Sale is scheduled soon. As we plan to share the lovely garden flowers abound in Dakota County, we will be mindfully bare rooting the plants before donating to the sale . If you are planning to share plants from your garden with others this summer, bare rooting them is the safe way to do it. Why bare root?! The goal of bare rooting plants is to prevent the spread of jumping worms, which are an invasive species of worms in the United States. The worms can produce significant destruction in your garden by severely impacting the soil structure of your garden and reducing or destroying plant growth. Read this article from the University of Minnesota Extension to learn more about jumping worms in Minnesota. Prevention is key to limiting the spread of invasive jumping worms. Since soil, plant roots and mulch are the common materials most likely to spread the jumping worms, you can play an integral role in minimizing jumping worm issues. Note that in the spring, jumping worms are either cocoons or juveniles. The cocoons are the size and color of soil aggregates so they are difficult to see. Juvenile jumping worms may look like other juvenile earthworms at this point, without the telltale cream color collar, so they are hard to find or identify. These worms and juvenile worms can easily hide inside the roots of your plant. You can still share your plants and dramatically reduce the spread of jumping worms by taking steps to “bare root” your plants. The remainder of this article will provide step-by-step instructions about how to do so. How to Bare Root Your Plants Before sharing your beautiful garden plants, please take the following steps to bare root your donations. SUPPLIES: Drop cloth for work area; your plant; deep tray or wash tub; chopsticks or bamboo skewer; 4-5 five gallon buckets, with all but one half full of water; sheets of newspaper; paper towel; sterile soil; twine; label; 5 gallon elastic-top paint strainer and a gallon sized plastic bag. DIRECTIONS : 1. Prepare the work area with a dropcloth. Take the plant out of its pot over the deep tray/washtub. Using the chopsticks/skewer or your hands, completely remove all the dirt directly into the tray. 2. Rinse the roots in 2-3 of the water buckets until clean. 3. Examine the roots to ensure no dirt or potential jumping worm cocoons remain. 4. Position one sheet of newspaper into a diamond shape. Set a paper towel in the middle of the newspaper. 5. Lay the plant on the paper towel. Sprinkle sterile soil on the roots. 6. Wrap the bottom of the newspaper up on the roots and dirt. Fold in both sides of the newspaper over the roots. Tie the packet with twine. 7. Attach a label with the plant’s name to the twine. Write the plant’s name on the newspaper, too. 8. Put the tied packet into a bucket of clean water (ie., a bucket of water not used to rinse the roots) to hydrate it initially, removing it after soaked. Water the packet daily. 9. Return the dirt from the washtub to the old plant pot. Put the dirt back where it came from. 10. Pull the elastic paint strainer over the empty bucket. Dump everything collected in the other 5 gallon buckets (that you used to rinse off the plant’s dirt) into the empty bucket. Remove the strainer and the strained material into a gallon sized plastic bag. Seal the bag and discard it in the trash. Tip the bucket to empty the water into the area where the plant originated. Clean the dropcloth to prevent inadvertent spread of the worms/cocoons. NOTE : Since no earthworms are native to Minnesota, drop any worms found while bare rooting into a plastic bag, seal it and put it in the trash. Do not compost. With a little practice, you’ll get the hang of bare rooting. A practice well worth it to keep your garden healthy. Resources Bare Root Instructions Credit to Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Video instructions from Dakota County Master Gardeners. Included in this video is another video by Julia Vanatta. Special credit must be given to her. Without her research and demonstration classes this article could not have been written. Julia promotes sustainable gardening as a volunteer for Wild Ones Twin Cities. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3), Longfield Gardens (from Creative Commons licenses) (1)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.

< Back Pet-Safe Plant Choices Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener There are a lot of us in Dakota County and beyond who love both plants and our pets. Not all plants are compatible with the dogs and cats who live with us. Read on to find out about safer plant choices to make for our furry family members - and a few plants to keep away! I adopt new houseplants every year around January. Some fresh green helps me through the winter months - whether I’m expanding my collection or filling in for some plants that weren’t a good match for my environment (Master Gardeners get brown plants sometimes, too!) We have beloved dogs and cats in our family, so we want to make sure any plants we have within reach are going to be safe for our pets. If you are gifting houseplants, it is a good idea to keep in mind all of the household residents who can access the plants! I would recommend leaving any plant identification instructions and labels with the plant. This extra care also includes floral bouquets, so watch for danger there (think lilies, tulips and gladiola as examples). Today, I’m offering some houseplant options that are safer for dogs and cats: 1. Hoya Hearts (Hoya kerrii), just in time for Valentines Day! 2. Boston Fern - Many true ferns are nontoxic. This plant loves humidity and is a great option in a bathroom with a shower. Be careful, though, of plants such as “Asparagus Ferns” (Asparagus densiflorus cv sprengeri), which are not true ferns. These plants are actually related to the lily family - and are not safe for pets! 3. Rubber Plant (Peperomia) 4. Money Tree (Pachira aquatica) 5. African Violets (Saintpaulia spp.) 6. Gerbera Daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) 7. Bamboo or Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) - but be careful of Sago Palms (Cycas revoluta), these are very toxic to pets! 8. Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis sp.) 9. Holiday cactus (Schlumbergera) make great year-round houseplants 10. Many other succulents, such as Echeveria and Burro’s Tail are safe options as well. Check out this article from the Minnesota State Horticultural Society for more helpful information: A good general rule with all plants is to know your pets and double check plant labels . I have senior dogs that are more inclined to reach for the peanut butter spoon than any old plant, so I feel comfortable keeping riskier plants elevated and check for fallen leaves regularly. Some common plants in my home that are toxic to dogs and cats are Aloe, Amaryllis, Dieffenbachia, English Ivy, Eucalyptus and Philodendron. If you have a new puppy or kitten that can get to and munch plants in the house, you’ll need to adjust accordingly and stick to safer plants. Most plants can cause upset tummies if ingested or chewed on, but the above options will help avoid some more serious consequences. You can search toxicity by plant on the ASPCA’s website here . If your fur-baby has gotten into something they shouldn’t have, time matters. Here are a few resources if you are concerned your pet has ingested, touched, or inhaled poisonous substances - plants or otherwise: The University of Minnesota School of Veterinary Medicine recommends Pet Poison Helpline. - For general information or just checking, their website has tons of useful information including Top Ten Plants Poisonous to Pets . - For emergency help, you can call them at 855-764-7661 or email at info@petpoinhelpline.com ( please note there is an $85 incident fee applicable in this case ) ASPCA® (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals®) also has a poison control line (888) 426-4435 and some additional resources on their animal poison control website . Check out this website from beChewy and Monrovia for some great outdoor container “recipes” filled with pet-safe plants. They also have great tips on gardening around pets. You and your pets will have a shopping list ready when the weather warms up in the spring. Have fun enjoying your plants and healthy pets! Photo credits: Brooke Nesbitt (1,6), Sarah Heidtke (2,4,5), Wiki Creative Commons (3)

< Back How to Select an Orchid Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you been intrigued about orchids but don’t know where to start or how to keep them alive? Or, are you already an orchid grower but want some expert tips? This article on orchids is the first of three by orchid expert, Paul Wood. The first article provides great advice about how to choose the right orchid for you. Read on to learn how you can begin to be an orchid grower – and lover! Orchids are the most popular potted indoor plants. The most popular type of orchid, by far, is the Phalaenopsis or, as it is commonly called “The Moth Orchid.” Advances in cloning have enabled commercial orchid growers to bring literally millions of Phalaenopsis orchids to market each year. Phalaenopsis plants (or Phal) can be found not only at garden centers, but at big box stores, grocery stores, and even farmer’s’ markets. As with any house plant you buy, success begins with buying a healthy plant that will thrive in the location you picked for it; orchids are no exception. It is the gardening mantra: “Right Plant, Right Place.” Phals are low light orchids and that is one reason they do well as an indoor plant. Here a few tips on how to select a healthy orchid using a Phal as an example. First look at the plant. Are the leaves firm, plump, nice and green, and spot free? Limp leaves or yellowing leaves usually mean the plant is not getting enough moisture and that can mean root problems or that the orchid has not been cared for by the retailer. Next examine the planting medium. Is the orchid in sphagnum moss or bark and is the medium moist? If the medium is really dry it means the orchid has not been tended to by the retailer and that lack of moisture can cause the roots to die. This brings us to selection introspection. If you are a person who tends to over water, look for an orchid that is in bark because it helps drain the extra water. Conversely, if you tend to ignore your indoor plants, consider an orchid that is in sphagnum moss because the moss will retain moisture and you will only have to water maybe once every three weeks. Now take a look at the roots. Orchids sold in retail stores are packaged in ceramic pots, however the orchid itself is in a clear plastic pot inside that pot. Simply tease the plastic pot out and take a look at the roots. A healthy orchid will have lots of green roots, and maybe some slate grey roots. If the roots are mostly brown, put it down! Brown roots are dead roots. Finally, examine the flower stem. Look for stems that are bright green and laden with flowers and lots of buds. The flowers should be alive and the buds plump. Fading flowers means the orchid is nearing the end of its bloom cycle and dried buds are not going produce any new flowers. Phals, with a modicum of care, will easily bloom for several months or more, so your selection goal is to maximize the bloom time. Never buy a Phal that is fully bloomed because you have no idea when the bloom cycle began, so you might only get a few weeks of show before the flowers begin to fade. Selecting an orchid is not that much different than selecting any other potted plant; you want a healthy plant. With the Phals you not only want to select a healthy plant but also a plant that will allow you to fully enjoy their long bloom time. This is achieved by buying buds not blossoms. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! Resources: GrowingBestPhalsPart_I.pdf ( aos.org ) Selecting an Orchid ( aos.org ) Orchids for Everyone: The Most Popular Orchid Genera and How to Identify Them ( psu.edu ) Photo Credits: Troy David Johnston; www.flickr.com (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back Azaleas - a beautiful addition to the garden Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Azalea shrubs are a beautiful addition to the garden. The University of Minnesota developed a winter hardy azalea – ‘Northern Lights’ - which is now available in many different colors. In this article, you will learn how to care for azaleas, some of the lore about them, and why you will want them in your yard. Azaleas make a wonderful splash of color in mid-spring! Azaleas are flowering shrubs in the Rhododendron family. All azaleas are rhododendrons but not all rhododendrons are azaleas. The key differences are bloom time, growth habit and appearance. The most popular azalea for Minnesota is the ‘Northern Lights’ azalea. It was developed at the University of Minnesota by Albert Johnson and was the first azalea to flower prolifically after minus 40° winters. Its introduction led to the development of many other colors after Albert Johnson’s death. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas https://www.azaleas.org/wp-content/uploads/azalean/31/2/articles/Northern_Lights_Azaleas.pdf Azaleas need at least 4 hours of dappled sunlight, but in northern climates they can sometimes take almost full sun. It is extremely important that they have a soil pH of <5.5 that drains well. Fertilize in late winter or early spring. Azaleas bloom on last year’s growth so, the best time to prune is just after flowering. Azaleas need a sheltered area protected from icy winter winds, not a hot area next to the house. Don’t cultivate around azaleas because it will damage their shallow fibrous roots. The Woodland-Azalea Garden at the UMN Landscape Arboretum features many of the Northern Lights series of azaleas. All over the MN Landscape Arboretum in general, you can see Albert Johnson’s original pink-flowered ‘Northern Lights’. The series is known the world-over for varied colors and flower-bud hardiness - an achievement that took two decades. Historically, azaleas have been associated with various emotions and symbols. Generally, they are said to represent good qualities, such as: Temperance – the Victorians often carried a bloom if they supported the prohibition of alcohol. Emotional evenness. Passion that is still developing and fragile. Despite being overwhelmingly associated with positive qualities, Azaleas have a dark side as they are also associated with death threats-but only when sent in a black vase! This link may have occurred because in sufficient quantity, all parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. https://www.flowermeaning.com/azalea-flower-meaning/ Azaleas are susceptible to some pests including: aphids, scale, thrips and Azalea sawflies. Azalea woes? Try University of Minnesota Extension’s publication: ‘What’s wrong with my plant?’ Check out this University of Minnesota Extension site for more information on, and to identify, Sawfly larvae. Pest Control: ‘Pick and Plunk’- picking sawfly larvae and plunking them into a bucket of soapy water. Squishing the insects - not for the squeamish. A strong jet of water. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Azadirachtin and spinosad are effective for 1-2 weeks. Sawflies that feed on treated foliage are affected. These products have little impact on other insects. Residual pesticides include permethrin, bifenthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, and carbaryl and are most effective against young larvae. One application is usually sufficient. Follow the label instructions exactly and the timing must minimize contact with pollinators. Note: Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Btk) is specific to caterpillars and does NOT kill sawfly larvae. These are some other hardy azaleas: Roseshell Azalea, zones 3-8, 4’-8’ x 4’-8’ one of the parents of the Northern Lights series Compact Korean Azalea, zones 4-8, 2-4’ x 2-4’ Lavender pink Pinxterbloom Azalea , native to the eastern United States and hardy to zone 4. This is the perfect time to plan to add azaleas to your landscape! P.S. Don’t forget a soil test in the spring to help determine how to amend your soil! https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ Photo Credits: Photo 1: Pixabay.com (public domain) Photos 2-7: Marjory Blare