< Back Summery Chicken Salad and Easy Swedish Dessert Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener If you grow vegetables in your garden or frequent farmers markets, you know that September can yield a bountiful crop. Yes, you might be thinking about canning, freezing, sharing or drying some of your harvest but this month’s recipes give you the opportunity to enjoy many of your fresh vegetables in a delicious, smokey chicken salad and traditional Swedish dessert. Yum! It’s a crisp day in September and you’ve just walked in from your garden with yet another bowl full of fresh vegetables. Excited about the bounty you’re reaping from your hard work all spring and summer, you wonder what you’re going to do with it all. As you contemplate canning, freezing, sharing, or drying some of your produce, why don’t you fuel up with this delicious smokey fresh chicken salad? Most of the ingredients are flexible, so whatever you’ve got growing, can probably be added while still retaining a “bit of smolder”! This recipe was inspired by the Disney villain, Hades, the god of the Underworld, known for his ability to create flames. While not as fiery as some of his creations, the almonds and paprika are the smoked variety which sparks this salad with a unique flavor. Smokey Chicken Salad Ingredients: 2 ½ cups chopped cooked chicken. Using rotisserie chicken adds extra flavor, but canned chicken breast or plain cooked chicken works just fine too. 1 cup mayonnaise 1 fresh green or red sweet pepper, chopped 2 large stalks celery, thinly sliced 1 handful of garlic or regular chives, chopped 1 cup chopped smoked almonds 3 finely chopped garlic tips 1 large carrot shredded 4 red globe radishes, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh pea pods, cut into bit sized pieces 1 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half. I used “golden globe” orange ones 1 head fresh broccoli, peeled and cut into small florets 1 cup Pastina (very small pasta shapes, typically star-shaped), cooked al dente about 6 minutes 1 T. smoked paprika 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper Fresh lettuce, washed and torn gently into bite sized pieces Process: In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise with the smokey paprika, salt and pepper, stir until blended. In a large bowl, toss together all the vegetables and chopped nuts Stir the pasta into the vegetables Add the mayonnaise mixture, stirring gently Taste and adjust seasonings to your liking Serve on top of a bed of lettuce A perfect follow up to this smokey chicken salad is a very old recipe from Sweden, it was common years ago at Swedish smorgasbords, remember those?! It’s called Saftkram and is a sweet thin-set pudding traditionally served with milk or cream. I serve it without the milk or cream. I purchased a fruit steamer last year and it has been a wonderful way to get pure juice from plums, apples, grapes, rhubarb, and currents. I haven’t tried pears yet, but I can imagine that juice would be delicious too. I don’t add any extra sugar to the steamed juice. I pressure can it in sterile jars. You can use any fruit juice for this recipe, but dark colored juices are the prettiest and most flavorful. This is a very easy recipe, when you don’t have much time, but are hankering for something a little sweet and fruity. Leave it to those hard working, thrifty Swedish grandmas to come up with something easy, inexpensive and delicious. Saftkram Ingredients: This is the traditional recipe. I used 4 cups rhubarb juice, no extra water, for the photo. 1 ½ cups fruit juice or 1 ½ cups berry juice 2 1/2 cups water ¾ cup sugar (to taste) 3 tablespoons cornstarch Slivered almond, garnish Directions: Bring juice, water and sugar to boil Mix cornstarch with a small amount of cold water Remove saucepan from heat and whisk in cornstarch Return to heat and bring to boiling point Simmer 3-5 minutes, stirring occasionally Remove to serving bowl, cover and chill Garnish with almonds if desired and serve with cream or milk Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1-3)

< Back Choosing Iris in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Late spring and early summer bring Iris blooms in Minnesota! Strolling through the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, you will find many varieties of iris located in the Perennial Garden, and all around the Arb. In fact, the UMN Arboretum website arb.umn.edu lists 677 individual specimens currently on the website’s plant finder! You can plant iris in your own garden but which ones to choose? Read on for some considerations when choosing iris for your Minnesota garden. Several different types of iris can be grown in Dakota County and around Minnesota. Sun exposure and soil conditions are important considerations when choosing which type to plant. Of course, there are so many beautiful colors and forms to choose from for your garden design too! Blue Flag Iris ( iris versicolor ) is one of my favorite plants in my own garden - and is native to Minnesota. Blue Flag Iris can handle part shade to sun, and soils that are semi-moist to moist. This is a great option for the edges of rain gardens and marshes. ( minnesotawildflowers.info ) Blue Flag Iris Dutch Iris ( iris hollandica ) grow from bulbs, rather than rhizomes like other iris, and do best with full sun and well-drained soil. Most varieties are hardy in Zones 5-9, so they are grown as annuals in colder climates. I have had mixed results with this variety coming back in my Dakota County home garden, depending on the winter. They are a sweet bit of spring color. Dutch Iris Bearded Iris ( iris or iris germanica ) need full sun and well-drained, leaning to dry, soil. According to the Minnesota Historical Society, avoid over-watering once iris are established, and keep mulch away from the rhizomes in order to prevent disease and rot. It is quite a striking sight to see individual plants, or a mass of bearded iris standing tall (blooms on single stems can rise above 3 feet!) Bearded Iris Japanese Iris ( iris ensata ) are “beardless” and bloom after the Bearded iris, allowing the iris show to continue past July (Iris Society of Minnesota). They have larger, flatter, blooms and prefer more moisture in their soil than the Bearded iris (University of MN Extension). Japanese Iris Siberian Iris ( iris sibirica ) are also “beardless,” grown in part to full sun, and tolerate “a wide variety of soils, but will perform best when grown in moist fertile, organically rich, slightly acidic, well drained soils,” according to North Carolina Extension. Siberian Iris Other varieties of iris that can be grown in Minnesota and are listed on the Arboretum’s website, such as: Cattail iris (iris typhifolia), Orchid Iris (iris histroides), Dwarf crested iris (iris cristata), Sandy Iris (iris arenaria), Dalmation Iris (iris pallida), Roof Iris (iris tectorum), Spuria Iris (iris spuria), Blackberry lily (iris domestica) - are found in the perennial garden as well as the dedicated Iris Garden. You will also find an abundance of iris all around the arboretum. Something catch your attention? Use the Plant Finder tool at arb.umn.edu and find your way to a new favorite bloom if the time is right! Here’s an iris to watch out for and not in a good way: Yellow iris ( iris pseudacorus ). Yellow Iris is found in boggy areas and near waterways. It is a “regulated invasive species,” in Minnesota, meaning plants are “legal to buy, sell, transport and possess but may not be introduced into a free-living state, such as released into public waters (UMN Extension). Why worry about planting yellow iris? It competes with native shoreline vegetation and should be reported to the Minnesota Department of Resources if found. The Arb lists one occurrence of this species - on the Fern Walk. See you if you spot it next time you visit! Wherever you’ve found a place to add an iris (or a few) to your garden, there’s a right iris for you. Happy planting! Resources https://www.irismn.net/ minnesotawildflowers.info https://northerngardener.org/irises/ https://arb.umn.edu/ https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/iris-sibirica/ Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1), Gayle Bergevin (2,6), Sarah Heidtke (3,4,5,7)

< Back Plant American Bittersweet and Gourds for a Fall Reward Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener If you want to have beautiful American Bittersweet or quirky gourds this fall, find a place for them in your garden this spring. Read this article to learn more about why you want these plants to be part of your garden and how to grow them successfully. American Bittersweet American Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) is a stunning addition to a garden and a beautiful fall extension of the season. American Bittersweet should not be confused with Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus scandens). The Oriental bittersweet is the invasive variety with the ability to girdle and overpower natural vegetation. Double check the identification tag when purchasing, making sure that the plant is American Bittersweet. American Bittersweet vines up and over an arbor with tiny white flowers in the spring, dark green foliage in the summer and bright red/orange berries the fall. A mature female plant will produce flowers that develop into berries. Located at the end of the woody stem, the berries make attractive arrangements indoors and food for birds outdoors. A new variety, Summer Rhapsody, has been developed by the University of Minnesota. This new variety does not need both female and male plants for berries to form. Bittersweet requires full sun, regular garden soil, and a 6 -10 foot arbor or trellis to climb and grow. American bittersweet is losing its natural habitat of woodlands, fence rows, and open prairies but can still be found in the Midwest. American bittersweet would be a rewarding addition to a native garden. Gourds Fall is a ‘bittersweet’ time for gardeners. In one respect the gardener is reflective on a successful season but sad to see blooms fade. The addition of gourds to a fence row or on a 6 foot trellis will hide the fading foliage of other plants. Gourds are members of the pumpkin family and sometimes confused with pumpkins and squash. Gourds are one of the oldest cultivated plants. Egyptians used them for water bottles and as utensils, storage containers, and dippers by indigenous peoples of North America. They can be found at farmer’s markets designed as bird houses and other items. Numerous varieties of gourds are easy to grow in regular garden soil and can be planted around other crops. Gourd vines have tiny tendrils that reach for wire or another plant to twine around. They will also trail on the ground. Gourds are interesting for color, shape, texture, and color. Preparation of gourds for carving is a year long process. After the frost has killed the vines, arrange the harvested gourds in a shed or dry garage. Let the gourds dry for 6 months to a year. Then, using a small sharp tool make an incision and clean out the inside. Seeds will rattle in dry gourds. Scrub the exterior to remove dirt and let the gourd dry before painting. Gourds are hard shelled so unlike the soft-shelled pumpkin they will last in an indoor arrangement. American bittersweet and gourds will extend your gardens life. Gifting a gourd and bittersweet to friends is a particularly enjoyable activity at the end of the growing season. Photo credits: Gail Maifeld (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Wander the Winter Wonderlands of Minnesota Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener As we embark into our Minnesota winter, let’s wander into the many winter wonderlands in our state. The landscape is transforming into a quiet, snow-covered land, where nature’s beauty takes on a serene and magical existence. Many Minnesota outdoor and indoor garden sights are offered in the winter with opportunities of quiet meditation, reconnection with nature and new interaction with our environment. Let’s explore the winter garden possibilities available to us in Minnesota in this article. GO OUTSIDE Many options exist in Minnesota to embrace the magic of the landscape, dusted with the delicate powder of snow and its meditative stillness. Also, some places allow for more active winter interaction, like cross country skiing, snow shoeing, ice skating or snowmobiling. Here are some suggestions: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum: Trails for driving, walking, snow showing, cross country skiing. https://arb.umn.edu/winter St. Paul Winter Farmers’ Market: Featuring many Minnesota grown or made products available during the off-season, such as meats, cheese, eggs, honey, bakery goods, and milk. https://minnesotagrown.com/member/st-paul-downtown-farmers-winter-mkt/ Walker Sculpture Garden: View the larger-than-life sculptures, including the infamous Spoonbridge and Cherry. https://walkerart.org/visit/garden/ Franconia Sculpture Park : Acres of outdoor sculptures on hand, with a Midwinter Celebration, held in January. https://www.franconia.org/about/ Gold Medal Park: Located in the heart of Minneapolis, along the Mis sissippi River, with spectacular views of Downtown. https://www.nps.gov/miss/planyourvisit/goldmedal.htm Rice Park: In the middle of downtown St. Paul, it hosts the St. Paul Winter Carnival. https://www.familyfuntwincities.com/rice-park-st-paul/ The trails of our many Dakota County-area parks, including: Lebanon Hills Regional Park, Whitetail Woods Regional Park, Mississipi River Greenway, Spring Lake Park Reserve. WARM UP INSIDE Como Conservatory : A plethora of indoor gardens, including the sunken garden, bonzai collection, fern room and orchid house. https://comozooconservatory.org/category/como-gardens/ Minneapolis Farmers’ Market : At a few different locations, these farmers’ markets can fill your hunger for Minnesota grown produce and products. https://farmersmarketsofmpls.org/winter-markets/ Conservatory and Botanical Collection at UMN College of Biological Sciences Conservatory : Come see this unique and extensive, indoor plant collection. https://cbs.umn.edu/conservatory Edinborough Park: Come play at the indoor playground and ice rink in Edina, surrounded by indoor gardens, ponds and water falls. https://mngardens.horticulture.umn.edu/edinborough-park These are just some of many winter wonderland choices in Minnesota. Get out there this winter, and sample its wonder! When you come back inside, your cheeks rosy from the cold and your mind filled with peaceful images, you realize that winter isn’t something to endure—it’s something to embrace. Other sources of fun: https://mngardens.horticulture.umn.edu/view-by-season Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Chicken Curry Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Cooking in the winter is a time to fill your kitchen with tempting, warming fragrances that are new and exciting. This Chicken Curry recipe does just that. It also makes use of the carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, peppers and cilantro that you may have in your freezer from last season’s garden. Cooking in the winter is a time to fill your kitchen with tempting, warming fragrances that are new and exciting. This Chicken Curry recipe does just that. It also makes use of the carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, peppers and cilantro that I have in my freezer from last season’s garden. Chicken Curry – serves 4, over rice [ Ingredients: Spice blend: 1 ½ tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp turmeric ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground black pepper ¼ tsp ground mustard ¼ tsp ground cloves Curry: 1 T olive oil 1 c chopped onion 4 minced garlic cloves 1 T peeled and minced fresh ginger 1 cup chicken broth ¾ cup diced tomatoes ¾ cup sliced carrots ½ cup sliced parsnips ½ cup chopped green peppers Salt Cayenne pepper to taste 1 ½ lbs boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1 ¼ inch cubes 1 tsp cornstarch mixed with 2 tsp water 1/3 cup milk or almond milk 2 T chopped cilantro Directions In a small mixing bowl whisk together all of the spices in the spice blend, set aside. Heat olive oil in a 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add in onion and sauté until slightly golden brown, about 4 - 6 minutes. Add in garlic and ginger, sauté 30 seconds more then add in spice blend and sauté 30 seconds. Pour in chicken broth and tomatoes and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer 5 minutes. Pour mixture into a blender then cover with lid and remove lid insert, cover opening with a clean folded kitchen rag. Blend mixture until well pureed. In the now empty skillet, add carrots, parsnips and peppers, cook 5 minutes until tender. You may need to add a little water or oil. Return the blender mixture to skillet, stir, and heat over medium-high heat. Season sauce with salt and cayenne pepper (start with about 1/2 tsp salt and a few dashes cayenne then add more to taste). Add in chicken. Bring to a simmer then reduce heat to medium-low, cover skillet with lid and simmer until chicken has cooked through, stirring occasionally, about 8 - 12 minutes. During the last minute of cooking stir in the cornstarch and water slurry if desired, to thicken sauce slightly (or if needed thin with a little chicken broth). Stir in cream/almond milk, then serve warm with cilantro over basmati rice. My husband, who does not like curry, loved this recipe. I think that’s because it doesn’t contain any curry! The spice blend is a fresh, light mixture instead of the pre-made spice purchased at the grocery store. Enjoy! Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Fall Planting Tips Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Fall is a great time for planting! Fall is a great time for planting! As long as you water consistently until the ground freezes–and continue to water again in early spring–your new trees, shrubs and perennials will take hold nicely. Planting in the fall avoids risks of mid-summer drought and heat stress that can decimate young or transplanted foliage. You can also find some great bargains at your local garden centers. Check out these tips for successful fall planting. Enjoy the fruits of your labor next spring by enhancing your landscapes and garden beds this fall. The key to success is consistently watering these plants until the ground freezes in mid- to late November. Step 1: Walk through your yard with a critical eye. Take notes and photos of areas that would benefit from moving things around or adding some fresh new plant material. Are there holes to be filled? Are there weeks when nothing is blooming? Are there overgrown or declining shrubs and plants that should be replaced? Step 2: Fall is a great time to dig and divide most perennials. And it’s the only time to divide peonies and other spring bloomers. Make a list of plants that are too large for their current space. Decide where to place them based on light, water and soil requirements. Remember, some perennials will take several years to return to full bloom and size after you transplant or split them. Step 3: Aim for early fall to plant new Zone 4 perennials, shrubs and trees (it’s best to avoid pushing to Zone 5 in fall). This allows plenty of time for roots to become established before winter, and they’ll be ready to grow early next spring. How about some instant gratification with new fall color from sugar maples, ginkgoes, burning bushes or other fall-blooming plants? Adding a thick layer (at least 4 inches) of mulch under new trees and shrubs will hold moisture and reduce winter injury. Step 4: Consider planting some spring-blooming bulbs–any time until the ground is frozen. Pair the bulbs with perennials that will fill in the space by late spring or early summer. That way, your bulbs can die back without becoming an eyesore in the garden. Step 5: If you have a vegetable garden, fall is the time to harvest and then direct seed a fall cover crop like ryegrass, rye, rapeseed, oats winter wheat or winter rye. Cover crops improve soil fertility and reduce erosion from winds and rain. Finally, visit your local nursery or garden center for great deals on trees, shrubs and perennials for fall planting. Enjoy! For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: Upper Midwest home garden care calendar | UMN Extension How and when to divide perennials | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Have No Doubt, Plant a Garden That Will Resist a Drought In recent years, Minnesota plants and trees have faced pressures from warmer temperatures and prolonged drought. You can foster a healthy, resilient garden by adding species that adapt well to these changes. Read here to find out the type of plants and garden conditions that optimize a drought-resistant garden. Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Choosing Drought-Resistant Plants As you head to your favorite garden center, look for plants and trees with at least some of the following characteristics: Native plants- Look for plants labeled as native to Minnesota or ask at your nursery. Native plants usually adapt to or better tolerate local growing conditions and require less water. Shorter plants- Plants that grow less than 3 feet use less water. Compact and clumping plants- Usually, these types of plants have deep roots, which can access water deeper into the soil. Adaptable plants- Look for plants that can grow in either sun or shade or tolerate many soil conditions. Creating the Best Garden Conditions Now that you have chosen your drought-resistant plants, maximize their success in your garden by creating the following conditions in your garden: Appropriate location - Place your plant in the recommended light condition area, (sun, shade, or partial), to ensure the best survival. A plant getting too much or too little sunlight will struggle and require more water for survival. Soil - Loose soil with compost or organic material helps plants’ roots spread and retain moisture. Avoid tillage of soil to allow maintenance of soil’s nutrients. Limit fertilizer, especially in dry conditions, because it can force the plants to work too hard, instead of conserving moisture. Mulch - Spreading mulch in your garden beds aids in reflecting heat and maintaining moisture. Avoid landscaping with rocks around plants and trees as they can absorb heat from the sun and get hot, robbing the surrounding soil and plants of water. Water deeply - Until the plants are established (usually two weeks), water deeply and daily. Then, water deeply about every 7-10 days, depending on the current rain received. Established plants need approximately one inch of water a week. During a drought period, these plants may need supplemental water. “Deep watering” is defined as slow and steady watering at the base of the plant for about 30 minutes. Early fall planting - While spring and summer are fine to plant, the best time is fall, with its shorter days and cooler nights, which allow plants more moderate weather to get established. Lists and Resources for Drought-Resistant Trees and Plants Trees and plants for Minnesota’s climate: https://extension.umn.edu/managing-woodlands/climate-ready-woodlands List of drought-tolerant native plants and turf grasses: https://mnbwsr.medium.com/drought-tolerant-native-plants-and-turf-grass-alternatives-a-short-list-9134c43840a3 List of adaptable native plants: https://northerngardener.org/native-plants-any-garden/ https://www.midwestgardentips.com/drought-tolerant-perennials THE resource for best plants for tough spots: https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/51549/08464.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y By selecting the plants and trees with the listed characteristics and then choosing the best site and conditions, your landscape can withstand the more frequent Minnesota droughts while still providing beauty. Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Shoot Your Plants Like a Pro July – when we can walk out into our gardens and are captivated by the beauty of our plants, vegetables or trees – nature. It’s natural to want to capture the beauty of nature in a photograph. With the advent of the iPhone, and its pal the Android phone, we have all become photographers, or so we think. Often the subjects we photograph do not come out looking as well as they did in real life. There is more to photography than pointing your camera and clicking the button. Here are some tips to help you take better photos. Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener With the advent of the iPhone and its pal the Android phone we have all become photographers, or so we think. Often the subjects we photograph do not come out looking as well as they did in real life. As I found out growing up with a professional photographer, there is more to photography than pointing your camera and clicking the button. Here are some tips to help you take better photos. We will be concentrating on photographing plants, but the tips are general enough to help you with whatever you are photographing. Tip #1 : Hold the camera steady, and click the button slowly and gently. This matters less these days with the new camera phones, which are very forgiving, and compensate for movement (but NOT actual jiggling). However, other cameras, like the single lens reflex (Canon and Nikon), will not, and the result will be a blurry photo. To counter involuntary movement, prop yourself up against a tree or other object, but whatever you do, try to stay as still as possible. Unlike birds and butterflies, plants don’t move (unless buffeted by the wind), so taking into account THEIR movement when photographing is something we can skip. Tip #2 : Don’t try to get everything in one shot . It’s tempting to throw in a lot of plants, especially when photographing your garden, but resist the temptation. Focus on one plant or small group of plants and fill the frame. Your shot will have more impact. Tip #3 : Don’t shoot everything at eye level. It’s boring . Shooting from below, or above, is a more effective angle. Or shoot through - especially if the plant is large or has interesting foliage or intricate branches. Tip #4 : Pay attention to the light. Time of day is important. Mid-day light is harsh light. Avoid it. The same goes for shade. Take advantage of the soft light of early morning and late afternoon (pros call that golden light before sunset “the magic hour”). Shoot your photos with the light behind you. Tip #5 : Use the rule of thirds . This means dividing your subject into thirds, horizontally or vertically. Place your subject to the left or the right of the line, not in the center . This makes for a much more balanced and interesting shot. Tip #6 : Avoid shooting from afar. Don’t shoot from too far away. Isolate the color or subject you are trying to emphasize. Moving in closer and filling the entire frame with just part of a single flower often creates a greater impact. You don’t get any distracting background and the fine detail of the flower is clearly visible. It may be obvious to you what the point of the photo is - after all, you are the one taking it - but your viewer may have no idea what stands out for you in a photo where everything is tiny. Tip #7 : Pay Attention to Your Background Good, clean backgrounds are essential to plant photography. A messy, distracting background ruins an image and pulls the eye away from the subject. Learn to position yourself. Before you take your photograph, look through your lens and move around. Watch what happens. Moving just a fraction of an inch can completely change a background and eliminate distracting elements You can also move in and eliminate your background altogether. Moving in directs the viewer to what you want her to see. This creates a powerful impact. Final Tip: Crop . In other words, cut it out. My photographer father was a big fan, and I am too. Get rid of the extraneous things that, in spite of your best efforts, ended up in your photo. It is one of the smartest things you can do to improve your photo. Examples include: 1) You shot from too far away, and the focal point of the photo is unclear; 2) You included more elements that you should have. It seemed like a good idea at the time but upon review you see that less would definitely would have been more; and 3) You held the camera crookedly and need to straighten the photo. The new camera phones with their picture taking features make this so easy that anyone can have professional looking photos. The crop feature is flexible. Experiment. Crop a bit, crop a lot. Cut out this or that part and see which you like better. Save that one. Or if you can’t make up your mind save 2 or 3. You can always delete them later. With time, you will discover how to crop and create the most impact. Editing/Cropping on iPhone On your phone or laptop go to the “edit” button and click on it. On the iPhone there is a small square with tiny “tails.” Tap on it. You will have the option to “straighten” your photo if it is crooked, but what you are really looking for is the “resizing” feature. These are white lines that you click on, then hold. Move inward until the lines encompass the part of the photo you want to resize or preserve. for instance, you may want to eliminate dead foliage, focus on a rose and its bud instead of the entire bush, or emphasize the deep color of a particular bloom. The crop feature allows you to do that. When you have the new photo you want, click “Done.” You now have a professional photo! It you want the original photo and an edited one, just duplicate the original then edit, crop and save. Follow these tips and you will “shoot like a Pro” in no time. References Belmont, Anne, “Flower Photography Tips for Capturing Stunning Photos”, https://visualwilderness.com/fieldwork/flower-photography-tips-for-capturing-stunning-photos Digital photography: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/WC095 Dunsford, Rob, “10 Tips for Taking Stunning Iphone Photos of Flowers”, https://iphonephotographyschool.com/flowers/ 4-H photography project Extension.umn.edu › 4-h-projects › 4-h-photography-project Photo Credits: S. L. Ball, Master Gardener (MN and FL)

< Back All About Peonies Tori Clark, Master Gardener Peony is a favorite flower of many northern gardens. The sweet-scented flowers are large and range in colors of pink, red, white and pale yellow with attractive stems of pink to red. Paeonia (pay-own-ee-uh) or peony is a favorite flower of many northern gardens. The sweet-scented flowers are large and range in colors of pink, red, white and pale yellow with attractive stems of pink to red. The foliage remains interesting in the garden all season. Peonies make an excellent border or small hedge but may need the support of a low wire cage to prevent flopping. They are low maintenance when established but need soil preparation and well-drained soil. Let the leaves fade before trimming to allow for the feeding of the roots that fix next years blooms. Peonies are native to China but are suited to northern United States. They need a winter chill and do not thrive in the American south where temperatures do not drop below 20 degrees F. Plant them correctly in full sun, a minimum of six hours a day, in rich soil. A layer of composted manure in the bottom of the hole will get the plant off to a good start. If planted to deep, flower buds will turn brown. Plant the eyes just below the soil surface 1 ½”-2”. The plant may not bloom the first year as it is still developing a root system. Bartzella Itoh Peony Peonies are not native to North America but have an interesting connection to Minnesota. For many years Faribault, Minnesota, was the peony capital of the world, due to the work of O.F. Brand family. O.F. Brand began planting peonies in 1868 from seed, sometimes waiting ten years for the plants to bloom. He sold bare root plants through a mail-order catalog. By 1920, Brand Peonies were the best in the country. The city of Faribault celebrated the fame with a community peony festival that featured a parade and peony queen. The depression ended the festival but Brand Peonies, later known as Tischler Peonies, continued until 1980. For many gardeners the easy maintenance, and fragrant cutting flower make peonies a favorite garden plant. Sources for this article Schier, Mary Lahr. The Northern Gardener: from apples to zinnias, 150 years of garden wisdom. 2017: Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul, Minnesota. Heger, Mike and John Whitman. Growing Perennials in Cold Climates. 1998: John Whitman Contemporary Books, Lincolnwood, Illinois.

< Back Learn to Identify Garden Insects – Good and Bad Alyce Neperud, Dakota County Master Gardener We know that most insects in our garden are beneficial. But when we find insect damage on our beloved flowers, vegetables and fruits, it’s hard not to focus on the damaging insects. A good gardening practice is to keep abreast of the latest research on how to attract good insects and adopt pest management practices to minimize damage from the “bad” insects. By seeking out research-based information on good and bad insects, you can learn about potential damage and a range of control options to make well-informed decisions about managing the pests in your Minnesota garden. Read this article to learn more about good and bad insects and how to tell the difference. Some common pests and how to identify them Leaf Lily Beetle While inspecting my garden in late May, I noticed holes in the Asiatic lily leaves and some red beetles. I confirmed the insect to be a Leaf Lily Beetle, a non-native pest. I learned most of the damage is done by the larva so I inspected the lilies again. As expected, I found muddy brown globs. I cleaned the larva off, removed the beetles and limited further damage by frequent inspection and manual removal of the pest. Leaf Lily Beetle Check out the following articles to learn more about this pest, its lifecycle and control options: Minnesota State Horticulture Society: Scarlet Lily Beetle Infestations Minnesota Dept. of Agriculture (MDA): Lily Leaf Beetle University of Utah: Lily Leaf Beetle Cabbage Worm While working with master gardeners at a local vegetable trial garden, I learned that each year the cabbage is damaged by caterpillars. The first sign of the pest in the garden is a white butterfly with a black spot on each wing. The butterfly and the larva are a match to the imported cabbageworm. Cabbage worm This pest can be difficult to control manually once established and the damage reduces the amount of usable produce. To attempt to control the pest this year, we installed a mesh cover over the cabbage when the small plants were transplanted into the garden. The intent is to minimize damage with early intervention so that the butterflies are not able to lay their eggs. The results for this year are pending but sometimes a new approach is worth trying. Check out the following articles to learn more about common vegetables pests, lifecycles, expected damage and control options from the UMN Extension: Caterpillars on Cole Crops Cropping Calendars for Cruciferous Vegetables, and Pumpkin and Squash under Common insects in vegetable crops Fruit and vegetables crop insects Shrub Rose Pests Three pests attack my shrub roses every year. The damage starts in early May with white spotting on the lower leaves, an indication of sap sucking - Rose Leafhopper . Rose Leafhopper and leaf damage In June I observe green caterpillar-like larvae munching on the leaves - the Rose Sawfly larva (also known as Roseslug ). Leaf damage from Rose Sawfly Adult Rose Sawfly In late June, beetles can be seen destroying the rose blooms - the Japanese Beetle . Japanese Beetle Despite all of this pest activity, the roses can be enjoyed most of the season with some manual control. I squash the leafhoppers early if there is significant damage. I watch for the appearance of the Roseslugs and squash them or drop them into soapy water. This year I also began looking for the sawflies to see if I could disturb them and prevent them from laying their eggs and thus minimize the Roseslug problem. The Japanese beetles are the most destructive and because they are relentless, I knock them into soapy water as frequently as is feasible. The best news is that the pests are mostly gone when the roses bloom a second time in late summer. Check out the following articles to learn more about rose pests, lifecycles and control options: Sawfly and its larvae , Roseslugs are located under Deciduous Trees and Shrubs.(UMN Extension) Rose pests . (UKY, includes Japanese Beetle, Roseslug, Rose Leafhopper and others) What about the good insects? The insects that damage our plants grab our attention but we need to remember that most insects in our gardens are beneficial and play a vital role in the ecosystem. Insects pollinate a wide variety of fruits, nuts, vegetables, and native plants. Insects also decompose plant and animal material, are used in medicine and research and they are an essential food source for many birds, mammals and other insects. An apple exists only when the flower is pollinated. A butterfly exists only when the caterpillar is allowed to mature to adult stage, with essential food sources and the correct host plant. Pollinators Insects that pollinate include wild and domesticated bees, flies, wasps, moths, butterflies and more. Did you know that flies are second to bees in pollination? The syrphid fly appears to be a small bee but is actually a “hover fly” that moves about quickly and feeds on nectar and pollen. I found this pretty little fly hovering and feeding on cranesbill geranium, shrub rose and columbine flowers in my garden. Look for it! Unlike bees and wasps which have two pairs of wings, the syrphid fly has a single pair. It does not sting or bite. Syrphid fly Butterflies are incredibly beautiful and fun to watch, make it your goal to learn about some new butterflies to attract to your garden with nectar and larval host plants for butterflies. Butterfly Gardening . (UMN Dept. of Entomology) Monarch Bumblebees are a joy to watch in addition to the serious pollination work they do. This UMN BeeLab page includes a field guide to identify Minnesota Bumblebees . Bumblebee Predators Some insects are beneficial because they feed on other insects and frequently it is not the adult that provides the most benefit. This is why understanding the insect’s lifecycle and what it looks like in different stages can help us better appreciate their value. Lacewings, in their wingless immature state, eat other insects. Lady beetles are beneficial because they feed on insects, nectar and pollen. Asian lady beetles are a bit larger and are a nuisance if they get in your house, but they are otherwise beneficial because they also feed on soft body pests. Both types have alligator-like larvae, quite different from the domed, hard, round to oval shaped adult beetle. Wasps . There are many types of wasps that help control garden pests. For example, the parasitoid wasp is beneficial because it lays its eggs on pests such as the aphid or imported cabbage worm, to feed on the host. These wasps are tiny so don’t expect to identify them but you may see small eggs or larva on the host. The Syrphid fly is not only a pollinator but also feeds on small insect pests. For more on these and other beneficial insects in Minnesota: UMN extension Beneficial Insects . Tips for successfully identifying good and bad insects In order to know whether you need to take steps to control an insect, you need to successfully identify it. Try this process: Observe Be proactive by inspecting plants and watching for insects when they are expected to appear. Gather Information Take a picture please! This will help you recall details when doing your research What type of insect? Does it appear to be a beetle, butterfly or moth, caterpillar, grub or other? Note size, color, markings, # of wings, etc. Where did you find it? Insect pests tend to be specific to certain plants. Is it on a plant or in the soil? Is there any feeding damage? Sometimes you will have to rely on the damage to do your inquiry when the insect is not present. What time of year is it? Insects emerge at different times of the year, some have annual cycles, others have multiple cycles in one season. Take the information you have gathered and go to reputable sources to identify the insect and how to manage it. Search within the UMN Extension site or another known research-backed site. For a list of Helpful Apps for identifying insects, open the “How to Control Specific Pests” header on UMN Extension Preventing pests in your yard and garden page. Other Resources for assistance: Ask a Master Gardener and Yard and Garden News Anticipate and Plan Accordingly When you’ve learned the lifecycle and the best time to interrupt the lifecycle, you can be more strategic about solving a problem. Keep up the good gardening! We all strive for a beautiful flower garden and healthy fruits and vegetables. So, it is important to identify and control threats from damaging insects early. Try to develop a more observant eye and know when to look; anticipate and plan accordingly. Get to know good insects, learn to attract and protect them! Many resources are available to help you satisfy your curiosity about an insect, or help you solve a problem. But don’t hesitate to ask for help if you get stumped. Additional References on Pollinators Did you know that 70% of native bees nest in the ground: 5 ways to Increase nesting habitat for Native Bees . (Xerces Society) Vegetable Garden Best Management Practices (BPM) for Pollinators including a list of recommended garden plants to support pollinators. An example of a best practice is to plan your garden with flowers, veggies, herbs and fruits intermixed. (UMN) Current status on pollinators and what you can do for them. (MDA) Create pollinator friendly habitat with the Lawns to Legumes program . (The Minnesota Board of Water and Soil Resources) Photo Credit: Alyce Neperud (1, 3, 7, 8), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 4, 5, 6, 9)

< Back Picking the Perfect Jack-O-Lantern Pumpkin Linda Stein, Master Gardener Picking out and carving pumpkins is a favorite family activity in October. Read on for tips about how to choose and carve your pumpkins and what to do with all those seeds. As October arrives, many children and their families are thinking about Halloween. If your family is like mine, pumpkin carving is an essential part of that event. You can be overwhelmed looking at the vats full of pumpkins at the grocery store or the rows and rows of pumpkins in your nearby pumpkin patch. So , when should you pick your pumpkin and what should you look for in the myriad of options? Pumpkins generally last 8 to 12 weeks after they are picked. However, they will start to wilt within 5 to 10 days after they are hollowed out and carved. So , plan accordingly. How to Pick the Perfect Pumpkin Cooking vs carving - Pumpkins used for cooking or for pie making look similar to those chosen to carve into Jack-O-Lanterns. However, there are differences. These pumpkins are referred to as pie pumpkins or sugar pumpkins. They are generally smaller, denser and darker in color. Their flesh is less stringy and sweeter. Larger pumpkins used for carving or decorating are generally known as field pumpkins and besides being larger in size, also have a watery, stringy flesh which doesn’t work as well for cooking. What to look for in a carving pumpkin 1. Color- Color is not an indication of quality of pumpkin. However, you should avoid a pumpkin with blemishes, cracks, splits or soft spots. 2. Stem - Make sure your pumpkin has at least a 1-2 inch stem. If the stem is cut down too low the pumpkin will decay quickly or may already be decaying. And make sure the stem is firm and bright colored. If not the pumpkin might have been picked and stored for an extended period of time. Since it is important to retain the stem, make sure that you don’t risk breaking it off by carrying the pumpkin by the stem. 3. Scratch test - Test for the maturity of a pumpkin by gently pressing your fingernail into the rind. A mature pumpkin will resist scratching. If the surface is easily penetrated, the pumpkin was picked too early and will end up rotting. 4. Poke test - Gently squeeze or press your fingers into the fruit. Pay close attention to the blossom end, or bottom, and around the stem. A fresh pumpkin should be solid to the touch. 5. Tap Test - Your pumpkin should sound slightly hollow when tapped gently. 6. Weight - You want to pick a pumpkin that is heavy. However, a very heavy pumpkin may indicate thicker walls which will be more difficult to carve. Carving Since the pumpkin will start to wilt in about 5 to 10 days, think about carving your pumpkin upside down by hollowing it out from the bottom. That way as the pumpkin begins to wilt, the flesh won’t sink in from the top. If the walls are so thick that they are difficult to carve, you can shave the walls on the inside. Storing Your Jack-O-Lantern should be stored in cooler conditions but avoid frost. Some sources recommend wiping the fruit off with a solution of bleach water to reduce rot and decay. What About Those Seeds? Another family tradition is roasting the seeds collected from the inside of the pumpkin you’re carving. Pumpkin seeds are an excellent source of protein, unsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants, dietary fiber, magnesium and Vitamin K. But beware, they are also high in calories. In addition to enjoying them as a snack, WebMD also suggests the following uses: • Add them to smoothies • Mix them into granola, yogurt, or cereal • Use them to add some extra crunch to a salad • Garnish any meal, like soups, chicken dishes, or pastas • Blend them with other ingredients in a dip like hummus, pesto, or guacamole • Bake them into cookies and breads Happy picking, carving and Halloween! References https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/agent-articles/vegetables/how-to-pick-the-perfect-pumpkin.html https://extension.umn.edu/news/scoop-pumpkins-5-fun-fall-facts https://blogs.extension.iastate.edu/answerline/2018/10/04/pick-the-best-pumpkin/ https://www.webmd.com/diet/health-benefits-pumpkin-seeds Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Sarah Heidtke (2, 3)

< Back Yes, You Can Grow Shade-Loving Plants Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Many people think that shade just creates problems for the garden. This article explains how wrong that can be. Read on to learn more about which trees, shrubs and perennials can prosper in your shady garden. You may consider your garden to be “shady,” but is it in full shade or part shade? Full shade is defined as an area that receives less than 4 hours of direct sun per day. Part shade is defined as a garden that receives 4 to 6 hours per day. How much sun (take into account reflected or filtered sun) does your garden get? The easiest way to measure sunlight exposure is to simply observe your planting area every 30 minutes or so throughout the daylight hours over a week or two. Use those observations to determine the average amount of time the area receives sunlight, dappled sunlight, or shade. When you have determined the average amount of sunlight an area receives, you can choose plants that match the conditions of the site. Research the plants before buying and planting. You should also take into account the condition of your soil. Is it clay, sandy or loamy, is it dry or wet, acidic or alkaline? (Click here to find out about soil tests: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) Consider the following plants for your shady garden. SMALL TREES Saucer Magnolias Saucer Magnolias (30’) are shrub-like trees. They grow at a moderate pace producing goblet-shaped flowers in shades of white, pink, and purple. The buds are attractive to deer and rabbits. They grow well in many soil types, especially organic-rich soils that stay moist. They are useful in tight spaces and can be near a foundation without causing problems. Eastern Redbud (zones 4-9) Eastern Redbuds (20’-30’ x 25’-35’) produce violet-pink blossoms on bare branches in early to mid-spring before heart-shaped foliage emerges. Eastern Redbuds grow at a medium rate, and tolerate many soil types, from clay to sand, from alkaline to acidic. Water regularly when young; once established, they’re drought-resistant. SHRUBS Azalea The University of Minnesota’s Northerns Lights series has a wide range of colors. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas . If you look at other growers, be sure to purchase plants grown in Minnesota. Acidic soil (pH 4.5-6.0) is very important. Try to site azaleas at the edges of shade. Aronia, Chokeberry Aronia does best in part shade. In the spring they are covered in white blossoms, in the fall they provide bright color. Chokeberry Aronia Snowberry Snowberry produces tiny pink flowers and white berries the size of peas. Is is very hardy with a wide tolerance of soil types, and moisture conditions. The drupes attract many birds. Weigela Weigelas, like azaleas, bloom better with more sun rather than less, but are not so picky about pH. The blossoms are white, pink, mauve and red. The leaves can range from light green to dark and many have stunning bronze foliage. Weigela PERENNIALS If you would like more ideas, please download this table. It should dispel any question in your mind that there are a wide variety of perennials that will grow well in your shady garden. Shade Plant Table .pdf Download PDF • 131KB Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1), www.flickr.com – All Creative Commons (2), www.thisgrandmothersgarden.com – All Creative Commons (3), www.publicdomainpictures.net – All Creative Commons (4)