< Back All About Upcycling By now, many of us have heard the phrase, “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Read on for ways to set up our youngest gardeners with good habits to “Reuse” or “Upcycle” what they already have. No purchase required! Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener What is “upcycling?” We can be kind to both nature and our pocketbooks by using fewer resources to make products ( reduce ) and reprocessing materials like metals, paper and plastic when we are done using products ( recycle ). What if we use things we already have and turn them into something else useful without having to buy more materials or use energy to recycle? Upcycling is the “ reuse ” part of “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Lots of upcycling can happen right in our gardens! Here are some ways that you can upcycle with the children in your lives. You can have fun and teach them how to improve their environment. Soil: Composting is really upcycling. We take yard and kitchen waste, let it break down naturally, and reuse all of that nutrition right in our gardens to build up healthy soil! You can even upcycle a pail from the sandbox or the big plastic tub of animal crackers to carry scraps like banana peels, egg shells and apple cores to your compost pile or bin. Plants : Make more plants from what you have - sow a seed from your sunflower, divide perennials or propagate cuttings. Tools : A plastic milk jug with a few holes punched in the cap makes a great right-sized watering can. (I found that the pick from a nutcracker set worked well for this.) Take some crayons, markers or paints and decorate it any way you like! Another one of my favorite ways to upcycle is to use an odd plate as a saucer under plants: You can also make and decorate plant labels with popsicle sticks, straws, bottle tops or bottoms. Old forks and spoons are great for weeding and digging. An old sled or wagon is great for carrying branches, leaves, or new plants. Containers : Almost anything can be a container. Use a metal can as a vase for the flowers you picked; or to hold your tools. Poke a few holes in the bottom (with adult help) for drainage and plant some flower or vegetable seeds. Outgrow your rain boots? You can grow plants in them! Yogurt containers are great for starting seeds. You can also use a plastic bottle to make a self-watering planter: Take a look around before you go out and buy new - you may have most or all of what you need right at home to grow and play in the garden! Check out some of these great books from Dakota County Library for these and more upcycling ideas to do with kids: Play & Learn Activities for Babies by Hannah Fathi Make Plastic Fantastic, Over 25 Recycling Craft Projects by Sophia Bebb and Helen Robinson, Illustrated by Diego Valsberg and Martin Lowenstein Let’s Get Gardening, 30 Easy Gardening Projects for Children by DK Publishing Little Homesteader, A summer Treasury of Recipes, Crafts and Wisdom by Angela Ferraro-Fanning and Illustrated by Anneliesdraws Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Hydroponics at Home Have you heard of the hydroponic method of growing plants but thought is sounded too difficult to try at home? Hydroponics is a method of growing plants using a water-based nutrient solution rather than soil. Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Hydroponics growing systems can seem daunting given what we may have seen or know about commercial and large-scale hydroponics; but at-home hydroponics systems can be quite simple and rewarding. When growing hydroponically, you have year-round growing potential, limited disease and insect pressure, no messy soil and even increased and quicker yields than when growing plants in soil. The most accessible hydroponics system for the at-home grower is called the “Deep Water Culture” method. This method consists of a container, water with nutrients and a support system for your plants. This method can utilize either a passive form of aeration (also sometimes referred to as the “Kratky method” due to research done on the concept at the University of Hawaii in the 1980s) or an active form of aeration involving a pump or other method of mechanical water circulation. More information about all forms and elements of deep water culture can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. The basics elements for starting your own at-home hydroponics system are as follows: Container : The container you choose should be opaque, clean and made of food-safe ingredients. The size depends on the mature size of your plants or how many plants you will grow in one system. The lid will be important as it will hold the net pots the plants will grow in and keep them suspended above the water. Some ideas for containers include a 5 gallon bucket with appropriately-sized holes drilled in the lid or even a recycled pasta sauce jar (the lid is the perfect diameter to hold a standard net pot) covered in an opaque material such as thick felt or foam craft sheets. Container and growing medium: The most common type of container for your plant when using the Deep Water Culture method is a net pot. It is exactly what it sounds like: a plastic pot with holes that will hold the plant and growing medium, but also allow the root system to grow through it to reach the water and nutrients below in the container. There are many options for growing mediums in a hydroponic system, including rock wool, coconut coir, hydration, pumice or perlite. Whatever medium you choose, ensure it is clean by soaking it in water for 24 hours before transplanting your seedlings into it. Light : Most at-home indoor hydroponics systems will require supplemental lighting-especially in winter. Water : The first and most important element of your hydroponic water is its pH. Water should be tested for its pH levels both before and after adding nutrients. The ideal pH of hydroponic growing water is between 5.4 and 7. The second most important element of your hydroponic water is the maintenance of appropriate levels in your container. In a passive system there needs to be an air gap between the water and the beginning of the plants’ root system. The air gap is where the plants get oxygen. Generally, after the first filling—in which the water should just touch the bottom of the net pot—water should only cover up to half of the root system. Any more than this and the plants may die. Nutrients: Because only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are available to plants in a hydroponic system, supplemental nutrients must be added to the water. Nutrient mixes specifically for hydroponic use are easy to find and come in many varieties. Plants to try and seed starting : The plants that do best in indoor hydroponic systems are lettuces, greens and herbs. When selecting seeds for your system, look for a hydroponics-friendly logo or signifier that many seed companies use. Seeds can be started in plugs of growing medium that will then be transplanted to the net pots when their roots peek out of the bottom. In addition to growing hydroponically indoors, hobby gardeners can grow many crops hydroponically outdoors in the summer. Other more advanced hydroponics options exist that can be adapted to home use as well. More information on outdoor hydroponics and advanced hydroponics systems such as nutrient film or drip systems can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. This page has links to external and researched sources of information as well. If the supply resources and information available on the internet is overwhelming, there are several companies in the Twin Cities metro that can provide in-person guidance to get your own at-home hydroponics system started; for example: Ecogarden Supply ; St. Paul and Greener Gardens; Richfield. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Joanna Kapke (2)

< Back Winter Wild Bird Care – How to help our feathered friends survive in the frozen north BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener On September 22, the path of our Sun crossed the equator, headed south. We all know what’s coming to Minnesota: longer nights and lower temperatures. Our beautiful gardens are dying back, leaves are changing to stunning colors before dropping and blowing away, and many of our warm weather birds are departing for warmer climes. But some birds say in Minnesota year-round and other birds fly south to our state from the Arctic. We all enjoy watching beautiful, colorful birds in the winter. Here are some ideas for helping our winter resident birds make it through a Minnesota winter. While hummingbirds and orioles will be following the sun to the south, many birds will be heading south from the Arctic, to winter here. Others have adapted to staying year-round. As the temperatures drop, so do the food sources many birds rely on. While seeds may be available, protein in the form of insects is not. Providing those important foods and water, not only helps maintain a healthier bird population, but brings the joy of watching birds at our feeders; the bright red flash of the Cardinal, the raucous call of the Blue Jay, the gregarious flitting of chickadees. What a lovely way to brighten our bleak mid-winters. Here are some ideas for helping our winter resident birds make it through a Minnesota winter. Common Winter Residents We can surely be grateful that so many species have adapted to winters in Minnesota. Downy, Hairy, and Pileated Woodpeckers remain, as do Cardinals, Finches, Blue Jays, Nuthatches, Robins, and Chickadees. All of these birds will frequent backyard feeders as a source of a meal. Additionally, those harbingers of winter weather, the Dark-eyed Junco will feed on some seeds scattered on the snow. Bird Feeders-One type does not fit all Imagine sitting at your dinner table. Your chair is turned 90 degrees to the right and you must twist your upper body to face your plate. This is why some birds, usually smaller, are able to easily eat from a feeder that has short posts as perches while Cardinals and Jays find “fly-through” and “hopper” feeders, ones where they can perch facing the food easier to use. Cylinder feeders that have a tray to catch seeds that fall can be used by all of these birds. Unless you enjoy feeding squirrels, the feeders should be pole mounted at least 5 feet off the ground and 8 feet from a tree. A baffle on the pole will prevent squirrels and raccoons from climbing the pole and eating the food you specifically purchased for the birds. There are squirrel-proof feeders available as well. Keeping your bird seed dry and the feeders clean is imperative. Bird seed that gets damp could freeze, making it difficult for birds to eat. Furthermore, damp seed is prone to turning moldy and could make your birds sick. Bird feeders that are not cleaned regularly may harbor disease like mycoplasmal conjunctivitis which may lead to blindness and death. Domes for the feeders can help keep the seed dry and cleaning feeders at least monthly will reduce the likelihood of spreading disease. Glass, metal and plastic feeders should be cleaned with a diluted bleach solution (1:10) then thoroughly rinsed and dried. Wooden feeders can be cleaned with a weak vinegar and water solution Goldfinch with mycoplasmal conjunctivitis Bird Food – lots of fat and carbs, please It is quite easy to plan for winter bird feeding. The three main choices of food are large seeds, small seeds, and suet. Large seeds include black-oil sunflower, striped sunflower, safflower, peanuts, shelled corn, ear corn and cardinal mixes that contain sunflower, safflower and peanuts. About 80 to 90 percent of seed used in Minnesota is comprised of black-oil sunflower seeds and cardinal mixes. These have the greatest appeal to the broadest variety of winter birds and contain a high energy content. Small seeds like cracked corn or milo (sorghum) attract house sparrows and so it is best to avoid them. Nyger seed, a heat-treated thistle, is an excellent all-winter staple for American goldfinches, common and hoary redpolls, house and purple finches, and pine siskins. Furthermore, Dark-eyed Juncos will eat Nyjer scattered on the snow while squirrels will not! Suet provides high energy nutritional benefits. Pileated woodpeckers seem to prefer their suet on solid platforms instead of suspended feeders. Chickadees, woodpeckers, and nuthatches all benefit from a suet feeder. Water – it’s not easy to get A Black-Capped Chickadee weighs less than ½ ounce. It’s not hard to imagine the amount of energy it would expend to melt snow if that were its only source of water. Water is a critical ingredient of a winter-feeding program. The water needs a heating element and a thermostat. Several excellent birdbaths with heating elements and thermostats are available from bird-feeding supply stores. Five Best Winter Bird-Feeding Practices Select the best seed for the season. High fat and energy foods are important to get birds through the winter's cold nights. Water for drinking should be available. Remember snow requires energy to melt and energy is in short supply. Have multiple foods at multiple feeders. Suet, cylinder, hopper, and fly-through feeders can hold different foods and will attract different birds. Provide protection from predators. Having your feeders near bushes or a tree-line will give backyard birds a place to duck and cover should a hawk or cat come by. Maintain good feeder site hygiene. Clean and disinfect your feeders monthly to prevent diseases from spreading. Helping birds through the harsh Minnesota winters is both rewarding and enjoyable. It is a winter “win-win” for both the birds and us. Photo Credit: flickr.com (1), Douglas Hansell (2,3)

< Back Sunflowers - Bright, Beautiful and Fun to Grow Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to see the entire life cycle of a plant. This article explains how to engage in this fun and easy learning opportunity. Julie Henrichs Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to experience the entire life cycle of a plant. Sunflowers are ideal for planting with children because sunflower seeds are large in size for easy handling, tolerates dry or drought conditions and also is fairly low maintenance. Sunflowers are also “giving” plants - bees and bugs benefit from the flowers while birds eat the seeds produced. Let’s Get Planting Sunflower seeds come in all varieties, size and many colors ranging from yellow, orange, bronze, red, burgundy and even white with a variation of mixed petals. Allow your children to choose the type of sunflower to grow and then ask why they chose the one they did? Was it for the height, the extra fuzzy looking flower or simply the color? If you have height restrictions, refer to seed package for height and spacing guidelines. We think of sunflower seeds always being planted in the ground, but they can also be planted in containers. Choosing the best finished container is important and make sure to base the size of container by the plant height. Items Needed: Appropriately sized planting container (base size on final height of plant) with good drainage Sunflower Seeds Potting Soil Water in watering can or spray bottle Plant labels (optional) Gardening Gloves (optional) Let’s get started: Fill containers with potting soil, leaving dirt an inch away from the rim of the container. Once the container is filled, tap down lightly and add any potting soil as needed. Children can poke a small hole with their finger into the soil. Open the seed packet and have your child plant the seeds about 1-2 inches into the soil in the hole. Seeds can be spaced approximately 6-12 inches apart depending on the sunflower seed type. (refer to the back of the package for planting depth and spacing) Cover seeds and tamp down soil Water gently with a watering can being careful not to disrupt the newly planted seeds or spritz the soil with water making sure the soil is wet Set the newly planted containers in full sun. Continue to check the new plantings for watering needs at least once or twice a day. Once the seedlings have emerged, continue to check to make sure the soil remains moist, but not saturated. Seeds start to grow 1-1 ½ weeks after planting. As your sunflower begins to grow it may require staking to keep the plant upright, especially in strong winds. Sunflowers are unique in that they begin as a seed and also end as a seed. The sunflower plant produces a sunflower bloom/head. When the sunflower head starts to turn brown, the sunflowers can be cut off and either they can be left for birds and other insects or they can be dried and then used later. Sunflowers provide so many benefits – a fun and educational gardening experience, a beautiful display and food for birds and insects. Let’s get planting! Photo Credit: flickr.com (1,2), backgardener.com (3)

< Back Ground Cover Plants May Be Just What You Need Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Whatever stage your garden is in, there is one plant that you can always find space for but is often an afterthought in the garden. This article will guide you through the uses, care, and selections of our Perennial Plant of the Month: Ground Covers. Walking through the gates of your local nursery is sure to stir up feelings of excitement and inspiration. After a long, gray winter, it’s hard not to be pulled towards all the colors and textures that were missing over the season and imagine where you could find room in your garden to fit them all. Maybe your garden is well seasoned and as summer progresses, bursts at the seams. Or maybe you’re in the beginning stages and there is a lot of space left for your plants to mature. Whatever stage your garden is in, there is one plant that you can always find space for but is often an afterthought in the garden. This article will guide you through the uses, care, and selection for our Perennial Plant of the Month: Ground Covers. Each year, many of us fill in open spaces with annuals, however, you can save yourself time and expense by investing in some ground covers. This season I plan to fill a 50+ foot long by 5-foot-tall rock wall with as much creeping phlox as I can get my hands on. There is nothing better than having early signs of spring cascading over and across your landscape and knowing that it will return year after year, lusher and more vibrant than the year before. Beauty isn’t the only benefit that comes from incorporating ground covers into your garden. It may surprise you to learn that there are several ways ground covers can also help solve some common landscape challenges. Bugleweed USES On Slopes Many homeowners in Minnesota live on a property that has some level of slope, or perhaps a hilly, hard to mow area. Ground covers are a terrific option not only for erosion control, but to add something beautiful to your property where it might be challenging or unsafe to provide upkeep with a mower In Shade In mature landscapes, where spreading canopies cast wide shadows across the lawn, ground cover can be used to fill in spots where other plants won’t grow. They are also very happy growing over tree roots In High Traffic Areas If you’re looking to add some greenery to an area where kids and pets frequently run through, look no further than ground covers. Certain ground covers are durable enough to withstand foot traffic while maintaining form and sometimes even releasing a fragrance when disturbed Weed Control Weeds are opportunists. Adding ground cover to an open area gives weeds little hope in maturing when they must compete with a healthy carpet of ground cover In Gaps Rock walls and gaps between steppingstones are ideal locations to add ground cover which will help soften the rough landscape edges As Companion Plants Looking for a low growing perennial to keep the roots of your clematis cool? Add some ground cover plants! Kamtschaticum Sedum CARE As a low maintenance plant, ground covers don’t ask for much and in many cases, once established, can handle challenging soil and site conditions. Pruning is usually not needed unless you’re cutting out dead stems or spent flowers, or you need to tame a section for aesthetics or function, for instance clearing part of a path. SELECTION Before selecting a ground cover, be sure to consider your hardiness zone, soil and available light for the plant. No matter what your ground cover interest or need, you’re sure to find a ground cover plant that will fit the bill. Here are some ideas to get you started. Evergreen Creeping Phlox Candy Tuft Bugleweed Cotoneaster Bearberry Creeping Juniper Siberian Cypress Sedum Evergreen Periwinkle Bearberry Flowering / Fragrant Creeping Thyme Various varieties of sedum Sweet Woodruff Bugleherb (Bugleweed) Creeping Juniper Snow-in-Summer Soapwort Tolerates Light Foot Traffic Scotch Moss Bugleweed Creeping Jenny Large Fillers Lambs Ears Hosta Groundcover just may be the practical and economic answer to your gardening need. I little plant may go a long way. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3) & Julie Harris (2)

< Back A Tree for All Seasons: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener For the smaller yard, a smaller tree can be just the right touch. A forty-foot oak might be a bit overpowering, but a so-called “understory tree” can be the perfect landscaping accent to make the house appear to be a welcoming homestead. One excellent candidate is the native Serviceberry. Over the next three months we’ll take a look at several native understory trees that could well fit the bill for that yard accent piece. One excellent candidate is the Serviceberry . It actually is a group of about twenty different species grouped under the genius Amelanchier . As you might expect such a heterogeneous group goes by several names in addition to serviceberry, including shadbush, shadwood or shadblow, sarvisberry (or just sarvis), juneberry, saskatoon, sugarplum, wild-plum or chuckley pear. They comprise a group of deciduous-leaved shrubs and small trees in the rose family. The complexity of genus and variety arise from Serviceberry’s propensity to hybridize. So, much variation in size and coloration exists within the genus. That’s why you should read the descriptive information carefully for whatever variety you select, to make sure its characteristics fit your needs. The origin of the name is up for grabs. One story has it that Serviceberry started blooming in early spring at the same time that the valleys in the Appalachian Mountains became passable and circuit-riding preachers could again hold church services. Another maintains that the blooming of Serviceberry announced the time that the thawing ground could again be broken so as to allow graves to be dug and those Dear Departed that had been in “cold storage” for the winter could be interred with proper services. A less colorful, and probably more reliable, proposition has it that the genus was named after the European Sorbus , a genus also of the rose family with a number of similarities. Serviceberry's outstanding fall color Amelanchier is native to most of North America, being more prolific in the Eastern states and provinces. They can grow as either a shrub or tree ranging in height from 6 to 25 feet with similar widths. Depending on the variety, they are hardy from Zones 2 through 9. Blooming in early spring, most produce beautiful five-petal blossoms ranging from pink to white to yellow. Although the blooms usually last no more than one to two weeks, the plant produces vibrant blue/green foliage which turns a brilliant bronze in the fall. After blooming, clusters of berries form on mature plants, ripening to a deep red, then purple, during the summer. The silvery bark provides a striking accent in winter. Like most native perennials, Amelanchier is a great favorite of pollinators. Serviceberry will form multiple stems However, such a desirable plant is not without its needs. Both deer and rabbits like to browse most varieties, so you should consider placing protective guards around the young trees for the first couple of years. Many insects and diseases that attack orchard trees also affect this genus, in particular trunk borers and rusts . In years when late flowers of Amelanchier overlap those of wild roses, pollinators may spread fire blight. Serviceberries do well in full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight) to part shade (2 to 6 hours). They do best in a moist, loamy, self drained soil that is a bit acidic. Some species do well in boggie areeas and can look great near ponds or streams. They look well in boarders to naturalized areas. Planting is done best in the fall or, preferably, in the spring. A thick mulch applied around the plant will help it establish itself. You’ll want to keep the mulch away from the bark itself, however. Water well and apply a bit of all –purpose fertilizer in the spring and you should be well on your way to having a dazzling year-round garden gem. Photo credits: Dan Mullen www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,3)

< Back Shrub Pruning in Late Summer Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners Some shrubs can be pruned later in the summer but not all of them. Some plants must be pruned right after they bloom so as to not cut off the beginning of next year’s blooms. Learn when it is okay to prune the shrubs in your yard. This article will tell you what you need about grooming your shrubs to keep them healthy and looking their best. Please note that this article discusses late summer pruning. Once Fall arrives, pruning should cease, except for storm damage of course. Pruning in fall encourages growth which will not harden off properly before temperatures fall, exposing that growth and the connected branch to injury or death. Late summer pruning is done for two reasons: 1) damage or disease removal and 2) shrub renovation. Those shrubs that bloom in the spring should be pruned right AFTER blooming so as to NOT cut off next year’s blooms. Lilacs, forsythia, mock orange, azaleas & rhododendron are examples of shrubs to be pruned after blooming in the spring. If renovation is more desirable than next year’s blooms, they can be pruned over the summer or even in the prime pre-spring pruning window. Renovation is often best undertaken when the actual shape of the leaf-covered plant is visible. Plant material damaged by storms, hail, pets, sports in the yard, etc. should always be removed for safety reasons and to limit input points on the plant for disease or insects. This is true in every season. Unless there is disease in the pruning, this material can be discarded with regular yard waste. Plants damaged by disease should be pruned to minimize the spread of the disease. Use the U of M Extension site to identify the problem. After pruning diseased material, sterilize tools and gloves used to halt the spread of the disease. Hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial wipes, Lysol, Pine-Sol and Listerine are all good disinfectants. Diseased material should NOT be put in the regular yard waste but should be placed in a plastic bag, sealed and set in the sun for several days before discarding in the regular trash. Late summer is a less busy time in the garden and is a good time to assess how your shrubs are working in your landscape. If some have become a little “aggressive” or even (horrors!) “shabby,” now is a good time to rein them in. Most deciduous shrubs can be pruned at this time to improve their shape and size. Note that this is NOT true of evergreens except Yews! Evergreens should only be pruned in the spring when their candles are present. The pruning goal is to reduce the plant to the size desired and thin out from the inside, removing inner branches to increase airflow through the plant which encourages healthy growth. Remove the oldest, woody stems right down to the base. One caveat - hedges are often prime nesting places for birds so check for “residents” before taking on that hedge. Wait until the fledglings have taken wing. Some plants which react well to late summer pruning: Roses - encourages fall bloom Alpine currant Barberry Burning Bush - Euonymus alatus Bush honeysuckle Buttonbush Coralberry Cotoneaster Dogwoods Elderberry Fothergilla Gro Low Sumac Ninebark Potentilla Privet St. John’s Wort Smokebush Viburnum Spirea Willow Yew Notice that hydrangea is absent from the list. Pruning hydrangea depends on the type of plant and varies widely. Also, most hydrangeas are in best bloom in late summer. Julie Weisenhorn has a good description of hydrangea pruning on this U of M Extension website . Remember that there are right and wrong ways to prune bushes. For advice about proper methods of pruning, look back at our article from the March 2022 Garden Buzz - March is a Great Time to Prune Many Trees and Shrubs – currently found on the Master Gardeners in Dakota County website. Some shrubs can be pruned later in the summer but not all of them, so get to know when it is okay to prune the shrubs in your yard. Photo Credit: www.forestryimages.org (creative commons) (1)

< Back The Herbal Kitchen By Kami McBride The Herbal Kitchen by Kamie McBride is a tremendous resource and beautifully written guide to expanding your herbal repertoire. Fifty herbs and spices are discussed with tips for preparing, storing, and using them, and over 250 recipes will have you inspired to add more herbs to your garden (what's one more bed?!) Read the full review to learn more! Reviewed by Kelly Vriezen, Master Gardener Herbs are a gift from nature. We grow them and enjoy their irresistible aromas and beautiful colors in delicious food, and sometimes we use them to support our overall health in other ways. You are probably already aware that ginger and peppermint soothe upset tummies, turmeric helps arthritis, and lavender and chamomile aid relaxation. Fresh basil and oregano can’t be beat for making homemade sauces burst with flavor. In The Herbal Kitchen, by Kamie McBride, you will find a tremendous resource and beautifully written guide to expanding your herbal repertoire. Fifty herbs and spices are discussed with tips for preparing, storing, and using them. Over 250 recipes will have you inspired to add more herbs to your garden (what's one more bed?) Whether you are just starting out on the herbal path or you are already familiar with herbs, there are recipes for everyone. You'll find cordials, salts, refreshing drinks, vinegars, infusions, sprinkles, baths and foot soaks, seasonal meal ideas, and more to inspire you to make herbs part of your daily routine. You will be eager to try new things and discover new ways of experiencing familiar flavors as Ms. McBride discusses what they do to bolster health even when just used to season our food. This book is a great read for anyone who enjoys cooking and wants to expand their knowledge of kitchen spices or add new ways to incorporate great flavor into everyday meals that also promote health. Photo credits: Amazon (1), Amanda Kae/Flickr (2)

< Back Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentuckea): A Rare Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you heard of or planted Yellowwood? It is one of the rarest of native shade trees. But Yellowwood is large, beautiful native tree that will grow well in Minnesota. Yellowwood has a special feature in the spring that Master Gardener Jim Lakin discusses in this article. Read more about this unique native tree. Yellowwood is one of the rarest of native shade trees, naturally occurring in the Eastern to Central United States. It’s most often found on the limestone cliffs of Kentucky, Tennessee and North Carolina. However, it is hardy through Zone 4 and thus a suitable planting for southern and central Minnesota. And, indeed, it is well worth considering as a gracious addition to your landscape. Yellowwood grows to a height of from 30 to 50 feet with a broad rounded crown and a smooth bark. The name yellowwood comes from its yellow heartwood, used in small amounts for specialist furniture and decorative woodturning. Although it is of great value as a shade tree, one of its most spectacular features is its flowering. In late May to early June, Yellowwood produces long, white clumps of wisteria-like flowers some 6 to 12 inches long. Flowering intensity varies from year to year with a profuse output every second to third year. In the fall, the leaves turn a mix of yellow, gold and orange. Quite a show! As you might expect, the nativar is a good source for pollinators, attracting a variety of butterflies and bees. Mature Yellowwoods In siting a Cladrastis kentuckea , do remember that it is a full-sized tree and should be spaced appropriately. It does best in full sun, in well-drained soil. It is quite tolerant of both acidic and alkaline soils. You might want to mulch heavily over winter for the first couple of years, as it is establishing itself in our bracing Minnesota climate. It looks great on a naturalized border. That’s something to consider if you have some woodland. Also, it is surprisingly tolerant of urban settings, although I’m not sure if it would be a candidate for your “hell strip” (what landscapers call the area between the sidewalk and street). Several cultivars of Yellowwood have been developed. “Perkins Pink” is a nice one with, as the name implies, pink rather than white flowers. A diminutive sister is “Kentucky Yellowwood”. This is a medium-sized tree suitable for ornamental gardens. It does, however, have the tendency to divide its trunk near the ground. This tendency seems to be widespread among the various Yellowwood strains. This bothers some folks although I think it imparts a distinctive character to the tree. Spring flowers of yellowwood So, if you are looking for a luxuriant, summer shade tree that puts on a show each spring and fall, consider Yellowwood. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota (1,2)

< Back Propagating House Plants Gail Baxter and Marie Stolte, Master Gardeners Winter blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. January blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. Each plant species has its own preferred way to be propagated. Some prefer division (see list below) where a single plant is separated into two or more. Other plants start easily from cuttings (think philodendrons; stem pieces of 6” or so root easily in a glass of water). Some cuttings, like jade plant, can be started in seedless potting medium instead of water. And then, there are the cuttings that can be propagated from a single leaf, or even part of a leaf. Propagate from cuttings: Jade plant, aloe, hoya, Christmas cactus, snake plant, croton, Philodendron, Rex begonias, dragon wing begonias, kalanchoe, English ivy, dracaena, hen and chicks, pothos, African violet Propagate by division: Anthurium, peace lily, snake plant, pilea, dracaena, ZZ plant, spider plant (or plant the baby offsets) Fun with Rex Begonias By January, I am usually ready to propagate more Rex begonias . They come in many colors, and every year, I seem to buy a new variety to fill my summer containers. I bring them indoors in the fall and overwinter them as houseplants. To propagate them, I gather my materials: soil-less seed starting mix (or, you can use a 50-50 mix of perlite and vermiculite), cutting board, pruning shears and a razor blade (both sterilized with rubbing alcohol or bleach water), pins (I used quilter’s pins and T-pins), and a take-out container with a lid (punch several holes in the bottom). Step 1: Fill the nursery tray with the seed starting mix. Wet it well; when you gather a handful of soil and squeeze it, the soil should hold together but not be dripping. Step 2: Cut a healthy leaf with your pruners. Middle aged leaves work well, rather than very old or very young leaves. Cut off the stem so all that is left is the leaf. Step 3: Turn the leaf over so you can see the veins. Make a perpendicular cut across each of the largest veins with the razor blade. Step 4: With the leaf vein cuts facing down, press the leaf onto the soil and pin to hold the cuts firmly against the soil. Cover the container with the clear plastic lid, and put on a windowsill that receives indirect light—not direct sunlight, which can bake the tiny plants that emerge. Check the soil every few days and water if it starts to dry out. Within 6 to 8 weeks, baby leaves should appear near the site of each vein cut. Remove the plastic lid at this point. When the leaves are about a half-inch across, carefully separate the baby plants from each other and pot them individually in 3-inch pots. Look up your plant, and get propagating! Each plant type will have specific instructions for the type of soil to use for propagation, lighting, and other requirements. Look to the U of M Extension library or other trusted source for your specific plant. For instance, if you have cacti and Succulents or holiday cacti to propagate, the University offers tips on the environment these plants need to thrive. Propagating can become your creative outlet, too. Learn more about how to display your cuttings of 22 indoor plants and 17 more plants you can propagate from Planteria on YouTube. Propagating plants is fun to do. You can keep and raise the new plants, or share them with others so they can enjoy a little green, too. And remember: your houseplants could even become the next stars in your summer planters. Photo credits: Marie Stolte (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Wild Rice (Manoonmin): Minnesota’s Official State Grain Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, please click here. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, read on. Wild rice is called Manoomin (“good berry/seed”) by the Anishinaabe. The French settlers called it “folle avoine” (fool’s or wild oats). English settlers called it wild rice or Indian Rice. For the Anishinaabe, wild rice represents spiritual significance, cultural identity and connection to the land. Wild rice also provides nutritional and economic value for the tribe. Wild rice, an aquatic grass, grows naturally in peat and clay-soils of shallow, slow moving waters within rivers and lakes. Some Anishinaabe still harvest wild rice by canoe using flailing/winnowing/knocker sticks to capture the reeds and then knock the ripened grain into the bottom of the canoe. Grain that doesn’t reach the canoe is seed for the following year. But the manual work does not stop there. Manual harvesting also includes: Parching—heating the rice to dry it out and loosen the hulls while not burning the rice Dancing – traditionally the rice was danced upon to thrash the hulls. Nowadays, a rice husking machine called a trasher may be used Winnowing – refers to separating the hulls and chaff from the grain. Traditionally, this is done by using birch bark bowls and the wind carries away the hulls, leaving the heavier grain in the bowls Finishing – involves cleaning and sorting the rice either by hand or with machines. Today, most of the wild rice you see in stores is cultivated. In the 1950s, entrepreneur farmers began experimenting with growing techniques by creating flooded paddies. They then modified harvesting machinery to be used after draining the paddies. Minnesota is now one of the largest producers of wild rice and harvests 5 -15 million pounds annually on 15,000 acres! The three areas where you see the most cultivated rice being grown in Minnesota are: Clearbrook/Gonvick, Kalliher/Waskish, and Aitkin/Deer River. Of note, California is also a major commercial producer with smaller amounts grown in Canada, Wisconsin, Oregon, and Idaho. Regardless of where grown, cultivated wild rice fields serve as a great resource for wildlife. Overall, wild rice is important in Minnesota food traditions in both the native and European-American communities. Wild rice is high in protein, fiber, potassium and phosphorus and is an excellent source of B vitamins. It can be used in soups, casseroles, breads, and meats to name just a few. And did we mention that wild rice is delicious?! https://www.7generations.org/how-to-harvest-and-prepare-wild-rice-manoomin/ https://plpa.cfans.umn.edu/news/castellmillerwildrice https://wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/sites/wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/files/2020-11/Ecological%20importance_11_13_20_jak.pdf https://corn.aae.wisc.edu/Crops/WildRice.aspx Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database, https://wildrice.umn.edu/grants-and-projects (1) University of Minnesota, https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/resources (2) Lisa Olson (3)

< Back Dividing Irises and Peonies Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Intern Now that the Peony and Iris blossoms are gone for the season it's the perfect time to dig and divide the crowded plants. This article will help you prepare these plants for next year's season of beautiful blooms. The dog days of summer are upon us. It’s a great time to enjoy the fruits of your labors by harvesting fruits and veggies you have meticulously tended. Or maybe your garden presents a feast for your eyes, exploding with color or calming the senses with cool and shady textures. Before you get too comfortable sitting back and taking it all in, now is the perfect time to dig in and divide your crowded peonies and irises as their showy blossoms have faded away until next year. Dividing Irises The US Forest Service tells us there are approximately 280 species of irises in the world; this article will focus on the bearded iris. It is undeniably a popular choice among gardeners and it’s no wonder because of the rainbow of colors they provide in the garden. In fact, the origin of their name can be traced back to Greek mythology where Iris was the messenger traveling on a rainbow between the heavens and earth, thus the meaning of the name Iris is rainbow. Author Madison Moulton, a historian and political scientist, writes that cultivation of the iris plant can be traced back 2000 years to ancient Egypt. Throughout the centuries, it became a royal symbol, making its appearance on royal banners and coats of arms as the fleur-de-lis. In more recent times, the bearded iris, or Iris germanica, was named the state flower of Tennessee, and the fleur-de-lis is also the symbol of New Orleans. Now that you know the history of this garden beauty, it’s time to learn about how to divide this noble plant to keep it healthy and blooming in your garden for years to come. The University of Illinois Extension reminds us that the hundreds of species of irises can be separated into two groups – rhizomatous and bulbous. The bulbous irises are planted in the fall along with other fall planted bulbs. The bearded iris, however, falls into the group of rhizomes. Rhizomes are underground stems that store food for the plant. The University of Minnesota Extension points out that during August, irises tend to go dormant, making it the perfect time to divide them. As irises mature, rhizomes keep producing more and more rhizomes and crowd themselves out. Benefits of regular division every three to five years include more profuse flowering, and it helps prevent problems like iris borer and soft rot. The University of Illinois Extension suggests dividing that often, especially if your iris patch is producing noticeably fewer blooms. Using a shovel or pitchfork, carefully lift the plants out of the soil. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension offers the tip to water the ground thoroughly the day before if the soil is particularly dry to make lifting the plants easier. If possible, try to lift an entire clump and divide the rhizomes once you have lifted it and shaken or washed off the soil to inspect the rhizomes. If you notice any soft spots on the rhizomes or dark streaks on the leaves, iris borers are probably to blame. Extract and kill any caterpillars you find and use a sharp, clean knife or shears to cuts away any damaged parts. Any soft, smelly, or rotted material should be destroyed rather than placing it in the compost. As Penn State Extension suggests, you can probably break apart the rhizomes with your hands, but if you need to use a knife, it is a good idea to dip it in a 10% bleach and water solution after each cut. The University of Wisconsin-Madison tells us to make sure each new plant division has a firm rhizome, is light-colored, at least 3 inches long with healthy roots, and has a fan of leaves. Penn State Extension adds that a good rhizome should be about as thick as your thumb. While dividing your iris, it is recommended you cut back the leaves to about a third of their height. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension notes that this makes the plants easier to work with and helps reduce transpiration while the plant becomes reestablished. Using clean shears works fine for this step. Now it is time to plant! Penn State Extension instructs us to dig a shallow hole 10 inches across by 4 inches deep and to build up a small mound of soil in the center. Set the rhizome on the mound with the roots cascading down the mound into the hole. Fill the hole with dirt leaving the top of the rhizome just visible. A common mistake is to plant irises too deep. Penn State Extension also recommends that for the most attractive display, plant single rhizomes or groups of three, 12 to 18 inches apart, with the fans of leaves all facing the same direction. Water thoroughly and do not add mulch to avoid rot. Dividing Peonies Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong once sang, “Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off” when they couldn’t agree if it was a tomato or tomahto or potato or potahto. Here is a question for you: Do you call it a pee-uh-nee or pee-o-nee? According to dictionary.com , the correct pronunciation is… pee-uh-nee. With that settled, let’s learn about dividing peonies. Unlike irises that thrive from frequent divisions, it is said that a peony plant left in the garden may well outlive the gardener! Peonies can go 50 to even 100 years without needing to be divided. However, that does not mean a gardener should never divide a peony plant. Reasons for dividing may be to have more peonies for free, to share, or to bring along part of a peony if a gardener is moving yet wants to keep a plant that has been in the family for generations. Iowa State University Extension suggests that September is the best time to divide peonies. They recommend to first cut back the stems nearly to ground level. Next, carefully dig up the plant and then wash or shake the soil off the roots. Penn State Extension reminds us to remove any rotted material. The University of Illinois Extension notes that if dividing a large mature plant, you may dig up just half of the plant at a time. Use a sharp knife to divide the tuberous main root, called the crown, so that each wedge includes three to five pink or white-colored buds, or eyes, and one to two large main roots so that it can gather enough energy to provide for next year’s growth. Dig a generous hole and plant the new clumps so that the three to five “pink eyes’ are pointed side up and one to two inches below ground level, and space the plants two to three feet apart. Fill the hole back up with soil. University of Illinois Extension recommends for best results to add about an inch of organic matter such as compost or peat along with an inch of topsoil to cover the pink or white eyes. Be sure to water regularly throughout the fall if it doesn’t rain. It is also a good idea to apply mulch before winter. By following these steps, you should have happy, healthy plants that will continue to provide you with beautiful flowers for years to come. Photos credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2, 3, 4), Lisa Olson (5), University of Pennsylvania Extension (6)