< Back Common Backyard Weeds of the Upper Midwest, by Teresa Marrone A perfect companion for any gardener. Weeds, by Teresa Marrone, helps in identifying weeds, determining their purpose and usefulness, if any. Review by Sally McNamara Field guides are such a good idea and Teresa’s is one of the best I’ve used. Even better, Teresa Marrone is a local author - she resides in Minneapolis. Her other guides are to be recommended as well. A little history of Field Guides paraphrased from Wikipedia: Perhaps the first popular field guide of plants in the United States was the 1893 How to Know the Wildflowers by Mrs. William Starr Dana (Frances Theodora Parsons) . Mrs. Dana’s reference was for the lab rather than a portable book for the field. It was arranged by taxonomic order and had clear descriptions of species size, distribution, feeding, and nesting habits. Before her, in 1890, Florence Merriam published Birds Through an Opera-Glass , describing 70 common species. From this point into the 1930s, features of field guides such as changing the size of the book to fit the pocket, including color plates, and producing guides in uniform editions that covered subjects such as garden and woodland flowers, mushrooms, insects, and dogs were introduced by Chester A. Reed and others. In 1934, renowned ornithologist Roger Tory Peterson (1908–1996), using his fine skill as an artist, changed the way modern field guides approached identification. Using color plates with paintings of similar species together – and marked with arrows showing the differences – people could use his bird guide in the field to compare species quickly to make identification easier. His inaugural volume was the classic 1934 book A Field Guide to the Birds. Peterson Field Guides are essentially the standard today. Back to WEEDS . Field guides are designed for identification when out and about. Clear photos, good descriptions, easily skimmed subtitles, notes about habitat, and necessary warnings are expected. Teresa delivers all this well but WEEDS offers more: comparisons to similar plants for detailed ID, notes on how to eradicate (if possible) and, my personal favorite, “ What’s It Good For? ”. Many weeds are edible by us or useful for medicinal purposes, serve as a key food source for other creatures, serve purposes such as erosion control or producing good dyes, or are a source of soil regeneration. Or are just plain attractive and effective as a ground cover. She manages to pull out the good in almost every “weed”. I have found that her guide covers the weeds we are likely to see here. Other guides I have are more comprehensive, intended for a larger region, but take more effort to locate the plant that I am seeing. Personally I credit black medick (Medicago lupulin) , (pp. 42-43) a legume and prolific seeder, with transforming a garden area that was once practically concrete to the best soil in my yard. Over several years of growing, dying, decaying and reseeding for a repeat, these plants broke up the soil and added nitrogen to it. Today they are hardly present as other plants have thrived in their place. As is said, a weed to one, is not so much that to another. Photo credits: Book cover (1), book exerpt (2)

< Back To Till or Not to Till One sure sign of spring for me as a young man was my father-in-law rototilling his vegetable garden. He’d fire up his trusty TroyBuilt and belching smoke and fumes, pulverize a good portion of his back yard. The resultant fluffy black soil seemed to invite planting. Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener One sure sign of spring for me as a young man was my father-in-law rototilling his vegetable garden. He’d fire up his trusty TroyBuilt and belching smoke and fumes, pulverize a good portion of his back yard. The resultant fluffy black soil seemed to invite planting. Thinking has changed over the years, however. Many soil scientists are questioning the wisdom of unbridled tilling. We’ve come to realize that garden soil is more than a receptacle for water and plant nutrients. Rather it is a living entity harboring billions of microbes and minerals most of which are highly beneficial to plant growth. It also is a complex structural milieux, permitting the passage and retention of water, the movement of oxygen and other gases of plant metabolism. Tilling can disrupt these structures and destroy many of the microbes beneficial to plant growth. Over time this can lead to soil compaction, reduced water holding capacity and erosion. Paradoxically, it also can bring weed seeds to the surface to germinate. That’s not to say that the time-honored process of tillage is without benefit. It does create an even seedbed. It warms the soil in spring and helps to work in compost and other soil amendments. So how can you achieve these desirable results from methods other than tillage? In starting a new garden, a rototiller will make quick work of existing vegetation. However, the same result can be obtained by solarization or occultation. Solarization is achieved by placing a sheet of clear plastic over the future garden area and letting the sun fry any plants underneath. I prefer occultation, a fancy term for smothering plant life under black plastic. A black plastic tarp covering a field for occultation If you are trying to start a garden on heavily compacted soil, say an area that’s been run over by heavy mower for years, tilling may be the best solution. However, if the soil is workable consider using a broadfork. This is a dandy tool to reduce compaction in a new or existing garden without breaking up the soil aggregates. A broadfork has several metal tines on a bar with a couple of handlebars on each end. Stand on the bar and use your body weight to plunge the tines into the soil. Lean back and pull the tines through the soil. The creates soil aeration without turning it over or breaking it up as a tiller would. A seven-tine steel broadfork A broad fork in action Weed management has been a traditional role for tillers. The problem is they bring weed seeds up from the ground as they turn in grown weeds and their seeds. The end result is more annual weeds over time. If you reduce tillage this favors the dominance of perennial weeds which can be hand pulled or reduced by solarization or occultation as we talked about. Working in amendments of compost, manure, commercial fertilizers or cover crops is an important process to replenish your garden soil’s fertility. Traditionally this had been done with a tiller although there are good alternatives. We’ve already talked about the broadfork. Alternately a tilther can be used. This is a modified light tiller that only tills the top two or so inches of the soil. Being much shallower than the traditional tiller it can work in amendments while being much less destructive of the deeper soil structure. Want to learn more? Check out these links to the University of Minnesota Extension for alternatives to tillage: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/reducing-tillage-your-garden for solarization and occultation: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/use-suns-energy-kill-weeds Happy planting! Photo of Black Plastic Tarp on Field, Courtesy of Haley Rylander, Cornell University Photo of Seven-Tine Steel Broadfork courtesy of Bully Tools Broadfork at Gemplers.com Photo of Broadfork in Action courtesy of Seven Tine Unbreakable Broadfork at Way CoolTools.com

< Back Turkey Wild Rice Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s chilly outside and a bowl of rich, warm Minnesota style soup along with flavorful sides will certainly warm you up. Luckily, Joy Johnson has provided a luscious recipe for wild rice soup made with Minnesota grown wild rice. If you had Joy’s foresight, you could add dried parsley to the soup and roasted sweet potatoes from your storage cabinet. Hungry yet? Read on to learn how to warm your kitchen (and tummy) with these recipes. It’s chilly outside and a bowl of rich, warm Minnesota style soup along with flavorful sides will certainly warm you up. The soup can be made with any type of milk, including non-dairy. I love using Minnesota grown wild rice, it is so flavorful and has a wonderful texture. Make sure to thoroughly cook it following package directions. I don’t have anything growing in the garden right now, but I do have delicious turkey stock and cut up turkey meat, both light and dark, frozen from the holidays. I dried a lot of parsley prior to frost, so that can be added to the soup too. I have fresh sweet potatoes from the garden stored and I’ll roast those to serve along side this soup. A cold turkey croissant sandwich with fresh greens is one of my favorites. A very special treat for this meal, is my daughter’s home-made goat milk cheese. It has a sharp pungent flavor and is delicious atop a nutty cracker with a dollop of cranberry sauce. Ingredients ½ cup butter cubed 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 celery ribs, finely chopped 1 medium onion, sweet white, chopped ½ cup all-purpose flour 4 cups turkey broth (or chicken) 2 cups wild rice, cooked 2 cups cubed cooked turkey 2 cups half-and-half cream 1 teaspoon dried parsley flakes 1.2 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper Process In a Dutch oven, heat butter over medium-high heat. Add carrots, celery and onion; cook and stir until tender. Stir in flour until blended; cook until bubbly. Gradually stir in broth. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly; cook and stir 1-2 minutes or until thickened. Stir in remaining ingredients; return to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Roasting Sweet Potatoes Ingredients 4 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup honey 2 teaspoons ground Cinnamon Salt Process Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Lay the sweet potatoes out in a single layer on a roasting tray. Drizzle the oil, honey, cinnamon, salt and pepper over the potatoes. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes in oven or until tender. Take sweet potatoes out of the oven and transfer them to a serving platter. Drizzle with more extra-virgin olive oil. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back The Label is the Law! Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or, at least, their looks. Your first inclination may be to turn to pesticides. But many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides and other potentially harmful chemical products. This article provides resources, tips and other valuable information that can be helpful in deciding how to handle your garden problems. This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or at least, their looks. Many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources, including this from the University of Minnesota Extension (UMN), that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides. The UMN recommends using the integrated pest management (IPM) methods for deciding the proper strategy for your yard. This diagram from the University of Massachusetts explains the IPM method. Pesticides Let’s talk a bit more about pesticides. Pesticide is an umbrella term, it covers insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, bactericides and rodenticides (Rodenticides can also kill animals that feed on the rodents). Pesticides can either kill on contact or after being absorbed into tissues (systemic). Many of the same precautions that are on pesticides are also on fertilizers. Check out the sites from the UMN and University of Massachusetts to learn more about chemical and non-chemical ways to control pests and diseases. Know what you are buying There are many different chemical products on the market, so it is vital to know what you are buying and how to use it. If you decide to use a chemical product, here are some tips and legalities. The label will list the species of plants, fungus, bacteria, rodents or insects it will control. Don’t expect it to kill creeping Charlie if that plant is not listed. Contact products such as insecticidal soaps, and horticultural oil (mineral oil) will only kill the insect if it directly contacts the insect. Systemic insecticides are applied to the plant, and any insect that feeds on the plant will die. There are fungicides and bactericides which protect the plant from diseases. For example, there are injections of a fungicide to protect elms from Dutch Elm Disease, and soil drenches or injections of insecticides to control Emerald Ash Borers. Each pesticide and fertilizer that you use is required to have a label to inform you: What P ersonal P rotective E quipment (PPE) you need to keep yourself safe. This can include but is not limited to; safety goggles, breathing masks, long sleeves and pants, footwear, chemical resistant gloves or even full-body coveralls with hood. The label will explain how to clean up yourself and your equipment after using it. Wash hands before and after going to the toilet. Wash any exposed clothing on the hottest wash cycle. It doesn’t hurt to run the washer through the ‘clean’ cycle afterwards. Proper storage and disposal practices Pay attention to precautionary statements Don’t spray during certain wind conditions and temperature ranges. If the temperature is above say, 80F, a sprayed pesticide can volatilize and drift onto non-targeted plants. If the wind is more than about 2-4 miles/hour, the pesticide can blow onto desirable plants. Don’t spray if rain is expected before the estimated drying time. If it runs off it will not affect the plant or insect, and can contaminate the water supply. Where NOT to apply it, (usually not near bodies of water, because it can be toxic to fish and invertebrates). And directions for use The rate of application. You must measure the area and do the math. How long before re-entry, or replanting. How to apply it, e.g. to the point of run-off, or otherwise. How often to apply it. Organic Pesticides and others Products that are labeled for use on organic produce aren’t always ‘safe’. If not used in accordance with the label they can kill your plants and may harm you and/or the environment. Please read the labels on organic pesticides carefully. The above photos are all from an organic pesticide. Homemade products don’t have labels to tell you how to use them safely. Happy and Safe Gardening this year! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,4,5), https://www.umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/integrated-pest-management/about (3)

< Back Perpetual Poinsettias Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Christmas is over and leaves are starting to fall off your once-flourishing poinsettia plants. Most people throw away Poinsettias and buy new plants each winter. Instead, consider saving a plant’s life and the Poinsettia will reward you with beauty throughout the year. If you enjoy Poinsettia’s and are willing to care and feed this lovely plant throughout the year, read this article for some great information about saving your Poinsettia for another beautiful display during next year’s holidays. Christmas is over and leaves are starting to fall off your once-flourishing poinsettia plants. Most people throw away Poinsettias and buy new plants each winter. Instead, consider saving a plant’s life and the Poinsettia will reward you with beauty throughout the year. Poinsettias’ Story The Euphorbia Pulcherrima plants are native to Mexico and Central America. The plants became known by their more common name, Poinsettia, in honor of Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first U.S. Ambassador to Mexico, who brought the plants to the U.S. in the 1820s and cultivated the plants in his South Carolina greenhouse. However, Poinsettias were not a popular plant in the U.S. until after the Ecke family founded their Encinitas, California Ecke Ranch in the 1920s and developed, by the 1950s, a way to mass-produce a compact Poinsettia varietal that could be potted as an indoor plant. In the 1960s, the Ecke family promoted Poinsettias as a Christmas plant by sending free plants to television studios who then featured the plants on shows such as Johnny Carson’s Tonight Show and Bob Hope’s Christmas Special. Today, about 35 million Poinsettia plants are sold each year in the U.S. making Poinsettias the best-selling potted plant in the U.S. Amazingly, 70% of all commercially grown Poinsettias in the U.S. are still grown at the Ecke Ranch. Anatomy of Poinsettias Poinsettias’ flowers are found in the small yellow-green clusters known as cyathium, a unique feature of the Euphorbia genus. Cyathium is an aggregate of several very small male flowers and a single female flower wrapped in the involucre. The larger colorful parts of the Poinsettias are modified leaves known as bracts. Leaves are bract when attached to the axil of a flower (i.e. the node that connects the flower to a plant stem) versus non-bract leaves that are attached directly to plant stems. Poinsettias’ bracts are considered “modified” because the bracts change color in the winter due to a process called photoperiodism. Shorter days and cooler nights trigger the plant to stop producing green chlorophyll which promotes visibility of the leaves’ red pigments called anthocyanins. The colorful bracts attract pollinators, but bracts will drop off the plant after the flowers are pollinated. Winter To Spring Enjoyment In colder climates, indoor potted Poinsettias can remain colorful for several months with the right environment and a little bit of attention. Poinsettias will thrive best in warmer air temperatures, ideally between 65 degrees and 70 degrees, and in spots where the temperature remains stable. Avoid placing Poinsettias near cold windows, air vents, fireplaces or fans. Poinsettias like 4-6 hours of bright light during a day but longer hours of light or too much direct sunlight may cause the bracts to fade. Poinsettias need moist soil. If the soil feels dry, put the Poinsettia in a sink and water until it drains from the bottom of the pot. Do not allow Poinsettia roots to sit in water (may need to remove decorative wrapping). Also, do not allow Poinsettias to become so dry that the leaves wilt. Start fertilizing monthly when new growth appears in January or February. Use fertilizer at about half strength. Sprinkle additional potting soil on the surface if the Poinsettias’ roots are peeking up from the soil. Trim off wilted and brown leaves as they die. Remove any dead leaves from the soil. Following the above simple maintenance steps should keep Poinsettias beautiful and healthy from November through February, and possibly longer. Christmas Renewal Poinsettia plants that look healthy in March are good candidates to keep alive for enjoyment the following Christmas. Poinsettias will drop their colorful bracts and flowers during March/April which signals the plants to grow. A healthy plant will have plentiful green leaves and stems and ideally will have a few new shoots peeking out from stem joints. Poinsettias can then be periodically pruned and shaped to promote more branching and create a more compact, full plant. Continue to follow the steps specified above for spring maintenance. At the end of May, Poinsettias should be cut back to about 5-10 inches and transplanted into larger pots. Poinsettias may remain year-round house plants or may be moved outdoors in June or July when the night temperatures remain above 50 degrees (preferably above 60 degrees). Poinsettias need 4-6 hours of direct sunlight in the summer to stimulate growth. In addition, increase the fertilizer to full strength during the summer months. Bring outdoor Poinsettias indoors early in September to protect the plants from cooler night temperatures. The plants should remain in a brightly lit area for another 2-4 weeks, but fertilization should be reduced to about 25% of normal strength to slow growth. To produce colorful bracts and flowers, Poinsettias need 16 hours per day of complete darkness and 6-8 hours per day of light starting late September through late November. Temperatures during the dark periods should ideally be in the low 60s. Poinsettias should continue to be watered and fertilized at a reduced rate during these weeks. When colorful bracts appear in late November, Poinsettias can be moved to a sunny room and enjoyed through the Christmas holidays! Lessons From Real-Life I brought home six smaller Poinsettias last Christmas after volunteering at a banquet where the Poinsettias were used as table centerpieces. With regular watering, the Poinsettias remained compact and colorful through the winter months. By early spring, I faced the annual decision about what to do with the Poinsettias. I heard from friends that you could grow Poinsettias year-round which led me to keep the three healthiest looking Poinsettias. The red bracts eventually fell off the Poinsettias and I was left with three attractive green house plants. Someone gave me an article about caring for Poinsettias but I confess, I didn’t read the article until late October. Consequently, I put the Poinsettias in a dark place late October with a grow light that came on for only six hours per day. I used a grow tent that could be zippered closed to exclude light but I read that any dark place could work. I watered the plants once per week and ignored the Poinsettias between waterings. I pulled the Poinsettias out from hiding the second week in December and magically, red bracts had appeared! I’ve heard anecdotes that maintaining beautiful Poinsettias is challenging and I admit that my Poinsettias do not look as bushy as store-bought Poinsettias. However, I learned that Poinsettias are resilient and appealing, even with minimal care. In the coming year, I plan to follow more of the recommended Poinsettia care steps to enhance the beauty of my Poinsettias. The key changes that I plant to make to produce healthier Poinsettias are: Transplant the Poinsettias into larger pots in late spring. Fertilize the Poinsettias every month during the summer and fall. Regularly trim the Poinsettias to promote bushy plants. Shorten the Poinsettias’ daylight starting the end of September. Ensure that the Poinsettias never become too dry. I encourage you all to treasure your Poinsettias and experiment with keeping you Poinsettias year-round. The Poinsettias will thank you with their vibrant beauty every Christmas! References: “Cuetlaxochitl: A Cultural History of the Poinsettia”, Swanson Nursery http://www.swansonsnursery.com/blog/history-of-poinsettias#:~:text=The%20timing%20of%20the%20annual,transformation%20during%20the%20holiday%20season “Growing and caring for poinsettia”, University of Minnesota http://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/poinsettia “About the genus Euphorbia”, Euphorbia Planetary Biodiversity Inventory project http://euphorbiaceae.org/pages/about_euphorbia.html “Guide to Selection and Care of Poinsettias”, Iowa State University http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/guide-selection-and-care-poinsettias “How Can I Keep My Poinsettia Alive Beyond the Holidays”, Utah State University http://extension.usu.edu/news_sections/home_family_and_food/poinsettia-care “Poinsettia: America's most popular flower”, University of Missouri http://extension.missouri.edu/news/poinsettia-americas-most-popular-flower “Poinsettias”, University of Maryland http://extension.umd.edu/resource/poinsettias/ “Poinsettias: Year after Year”, New Mexico State University http://pubs.nmsu.edu/_h/H406/index.html “What To Do with A Poinsettia After Christmas”, Gardening Know How http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/poinsettia/poinsettia-care-after-christmas.htm Photo Credits: Cherise Skeba (1,3), euphorbiaceae.org (2)

< Back The Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum) Native Perennial Workhorse Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Wild Geranium is a pretty, flowering, native plant that serves as an easy-to-grow groundcover. Read on to learn why and how to include it in your garden. Geranium maculatum has been a big favorite of mine for many years. It is a fast, low growing ground cover that spreads rapidly and is easy to propagate by division. It’s tough and does well in everything from part shade to full sun. It’s tough and drought resistant although it does best in moist soil. It’s cold resistant and does well from Zone 3 to 8. What more could you ask for? The flowers range from a showy pink to violet and appear from spring all the way into early fall, especially in those plants in full sun. Plants can grow from one to three feet tall although ours usually top out around 8 to 12 inches making a very nice ground cover or front bed planting, especially in a woodland garden. Wild geranium grows in clumps spreading 12 to 18 inches. They mix well with eastern red columbine and woodland phlox, providing an engaging sequence of blooms throughout the season. Geranium maculatum in bloom It is native to the deciduous woodlands of Eastern and Midwestern North America from Southern Ontario south to Georgia and west to Eastern Oklahoma and the Eastern Dakotas. As is the case with most natives, Geranium maculatum is known locally by many names including alum root, alum bloom, cranesbill, spotted cranesbill, wild cranesbill, spotted geranium, wild geranium and wood geranium. As we said it prefers moist soils and the foliage may yellow in summer if things get too dry. If the foliage seems to be declining during a hot summer, lightly shearing the plant can help to revitalize it. As the season progresses the flowers develop into beaklike fruiting pods that open from the base to dispense seeds. More imaginative gardeners describe these seed pods as resembling the head and beak of a crane. Thus, the common name of “crane’s bill” and the genus name Geranium derived from the Greek geranos or crane. Geranium maculatum “Carolina “seed pods Geranium maculatum is a tough cookie without serious insect or disease problems although leaf spot or rust will sometimes pop up. It is a favorite of many pollinators including butterflies, flies and bees. Large bees including Bumble Bees and Mason Bees are attracted to the showy blooms. Smaller species such as Cuckoo bees, sweat bees and fruit worm bees are often seen among the wild geraniums. The wild geranium makes a terrific addition to the ecology of your woodland garden. Photo credits: Wikipedia (1), Kathy Clark, Ohio State University Extension (2)

< Back Greek Artichoke Salad Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Get your early lettuce on the table with other yummy vegetables in this recipe for Greek artichoke salad. Add some baking powder biscuits and you have dinner. Lettuce is easy to grow and so fun to pick fresh right before mealtime. Cucumbers might not be quite ready yet, that depends on how early you got them in the ground. If you have early tomatoes and possibly a young pepper, try this fresh take on a Greek inspired salad. Greek Artichoke Salad Ingredients: 1 (14.75-ounce) jar artichoke hearts, drained and quartered 1 large cucumber, halved and sliced 2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges 1 orange or yellow bell pepper, seeded and cubed 1 small red onion, halved and sliced 1 (2.25-ounce) can sliced black olives, drained ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 2 Teaspoons Italian seasoning Lettuce – use a variety of whatever is growing in my garden. Romaine is good along with lighter textured lettuces 1 (4-ounce) container crumbled feta cheese Preparation: In large bowl, combine artichoke hearts, cucumber, tomatoes, bell pepper, onion, and olives. In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar, and Italian seasoning. Drizzle dressing evenly over vegetables in the larger bowl. Cover and gently toss. Allow the veggies to marinate in the refrigerator for 30-60 minutes. Wash the lettuce, pat, or spin dry. On each plate, top a heap of lettuce with lots of the marinated veggies, use some of the marinade as dressing if you’d like more. Top with crumbled feta. If you’re eating light these days, the salad may be enough, but if it’s cool and rainy or you just need a little something more with your salad, here is a basic biscuit that I’ve been making for many years. They always turn out light and flaky due to three tricks: 1) make sure you cut in the shortening with a pastry blender until it’s a really fine texture; 2) make sure to knead the dough gently 10 times and; 3) roll the dough out until it’s ¼ inch thick and then fold it in half. Lightly roll it 2-3 passes before cutting out your biscuits. Baking Powder Biscuits Ingredients: 1/3 cup shortening 1 ¾ cups all -purpose flour (you can substitute up to ½ of the total quantity of flour with whole wheat flour) ¾ teaspoon salt Process: Heat oven to 450. Cut shortening into flour, baking powder and salt with pastry blender until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in just enough milk so dough leaves side of bowl and rounds up into a ball. (Too much milk makes dough sticky, not enough makes biscuits dry.) Turn dough onto lightly floured surface. Knead lightly 10 times. Roll ¼ inch thick, fold in half and gently roll again. Cut with floured 2-inch biscuit cutter. Place on ungreased cookie sheet about 1 inch apart for crusty sides, touching for soft sides. Bake until golden brown, 10-12 minutes. Immediately remove from cookie sheet to a cooling rack. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Summery Chicken Salad and Easy Swedish Dessert Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener If you grow vegetables in your garden or frequent farmers markets, you know that September can yield a bountiful crop. Yes, you might be thinking about canning, freezing, sharing or drying some of your harvest but this month’s recipes give you the opportunity to enjoy many of your fresh vegetables in a delicious, smokey chicken salad and traditional Swedish dessert. Yum! It’s a crisp day in September and you’ve just walked in from your garden with yet another bowl full of fresh vegetables. Excited about the bounty you’re reaping from your hard work all spring and summer, you wonder what you’re going to do with it all. As you contemplate canning, freezing, sharing, or drying some of your produce, why don’t you fuel up with this delicious smokey fresh chicken salad? Most of the ingredients are flexible, so whatever you’ve got growing, can probably be added while still retaining a “bit of smolder”! This recipe was inspired by the Disney villain, Hades, the god of the Underworld, known for his ability to create flames. While not as fiery as some of his creations, the almonds and paprika are the smoked variety which sparks this salad with a unique flavor. Smokey Chicken Salad Ingredients: 2 ½ cups chopped cooked chicken. Using rotisserie chicken adds extra flavor, but canned chicken breast or plain cooked chicken works just fine too. 1 cup mayonnaise 1 fresh green or red sweet pepper, chopped 2 large stalks celery, thinly sliced 1 handful of garlic or regular chives, chopped 1 cup chopped smoked almonds 3 finely chopped garlic tips 1 large carrot shredded 4 red globe radishes, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh pea pods, cut into bit sized pieces 1 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half. I used “golden globe” orange ones 1 head fresh broccoli, peeled and cut into small florets 1 cup Pastina (very small pasta shapes, typically star-shaped), cooked al dente about 6 minutes 1 T. smoked paprika 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper Fresh lettuce, washed and torn gently into bite sized pieces Process: In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise with the smokey paprika, salt and pepper, stir until blended. In a large bowl, toss together all the vegetables and chopped nuts Stir the pasta into the vegetables Add the mayonnaise mixture, stirring gently Taste and adjust seasonings to your liking Serve on top of a bed of lettuce A perfect follow up to this smokey chicken salad is a very old recipe from Sweden, it was common years ago at Swedish smorgasbords, remember those?! It’s called Saftkram and is a sweet thin-set pudding traditionally served with milk or cream. I serve it without the milk or cream. I purchased a fruit steamer last year and it has been a wonderful way to get pure juice from plums, apples, grapes, rhubarb, and currents. I haven’t tried pears yet, but I can imagine that juice would be delicious too. I don’t add any extra sugar to the steamed juice. I pressure can it in sterile jars. You can use any fruit juice for this recipe, but dark colored juices are the prettiest and most flavorful. This is a very easy recipe, when you don’t have much time, but are hankering for something a little sweet and fruity. Leave it to those hard working, thrifty Swedish grandmas to come up with something easy, inexpensive and delicious. Saftkram Ingredients: This is the traditional recipe. I used 4 cups rhubarb juice, no extra water, for the photo. 1 ½ cups fruit juice or 1 ½ cups berry juice 2 1/2 cups water ¾ cup sugar (to taste) 3 tablespoons cornstarch Slivered almond, garnish Directions: Bring juice, water and sugar to boil Mix cornstarch with a small amount of cold water Remove saucepan from heat and whisk in cornstarch Return to heat and bring to boiling point Simmer 3-5 minutes, stirring occasionally Remove to serving bowl, cover and chill Garnish with almonds if desired and serve with cream or milk Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1-3)

< Back Choosing Iris in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Late spring and early summer bring Iris blooms in Minnesota! Strolling through the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, you will find many varieties of iris located in the Perennial Garden, and all around the Arb. In fact, the UMN Arboretum website arb.umn.edu lists 677 individual specimens currently on the website’s plant finder! You can plant iris in your own garden but which ones to choose? Read on for some considerations when choosing iris for your Minnesota garden. Several different types of iris can be grown in Dakota County and around Minnesota. Sun exposure and soil conditions are important considerations when choosing which type to plant. Of course, there are so many beautiful colors and forms to choose from for your garden design too! Blue Flag Iris ( iris versicolor ) is one of my favorite plants in my own garden - and is native to Minnesota. Blue Flag Iris can handle part shade to sun, and soils that are semi-moist to moist. This is a great option for the edges of rain gardens and marshes. ( minnesotawildflowers.info ) Blue Flag Iris Dutch Iris ( iris hollandica ) grow from bulbs, rather than rhizomes like other iris, and do best with full sun and well-drained soil. Most varieties are hardy in Zones 5-9, so they are grown as annuals in colder climates. I have had mixed results with this variety coming back in my Dakota County home garden, depending on the winter. They are a sweet bit of spring color. Dutch Iris Bearded Iris ( iris or iris germanica ) need full sun and well-drained, leaning to dry, soil. According to the Minnesota Historical Society, avoid over-watering once iris are established, and keep mulch away from the rhizomes in order to prevent disease and rot. It is quite a striking sight to see individual plants, or a mass of bearded iris standing tall (blooms on single stems can rise above 3 feet!) Bearded Iris Japanese Iris ( iris ensata ) are “beardless” and bloom after the Bearded iris, allowing the iris show to continue past July (Iris Society of Minnesota). They have larger, flatter, blooms and prefer more moisture in their soil than the Bearded iris (University of MN Extension). Japanese Iris Siberian Iris ( iris sibirica ) are also “beardless,” grown in part to full sun, and tolerate “a wide variety of soils, but will perform best when grown in moist fertile, organically rich, slightly acidic, well drained soils,” according to North Carolina Extension. Siberian Iris Other varieties of iris that can be grown in Minnesota and are listed on the Arboretum’s website, such as: Cattail iris (iris typhifolia), Orchid Iris (iris histroides), Dwarf crested iris (iris cristata), Sandy Iris (iris arenaria), Dalmation Iris (iris pallida), Roof Iris (iris tectorum), Spuria Iris (iris spuria), Blackberry lily (iris domestica) - are found in the perennial garden as well as the dedicated Iris Garden. You will also find an abundance of iris all around the arboretum. Something catch your attention? Use the Plant Finder tool at arb.umn.edu and find your way to a new favorite bloom if the time is right! Here’s an iris to watch out for and not in a good way: Yellow iris ( iris pseudacorus ). Yellow Iris is found in boggy areas and near waterways. It is a “regulated invasive species,” in Minnesota, meaning plants are “legal to buy, sell, transport and possess but may not be introduced into a free-living state, such as released into public waters (UMN Extension). Why worry about planting yellow iris? It competes with native shoreline vegetation and should be reported to the Minnesota Department of Resources if found. The Arb lists one occurrence of this species - on the Fern Walk. See you if you spot it next time you visit! Wherever you’ve found a place to add an iris (or a few) to your garden, there’s a right iris for you. Happy planting! Resources https://www.irismn.net/ minnesotawildflowers.info https://northerngardener.org/irises/ https://arb.umn.edu/ https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/iris-sibirica/ Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1), Gayle Bergevin (2,6), Sarah Heidtke (3,4,5,7)

< Back Plant American Bittersweet and Gourds for a Fall Reward Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener If you want to have beautiful American Bittersweet or quirky gourds this fall, find a place for them in your garden this spring. Read this article to learn more about why you want these plants to be part of your garden and how to grow them successfully. American Bittersweet American Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) is a stunning addition to a garden and a beautiful fall extension of the season. American Bittersweet should not be confused with Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus scandens). The Oriental bittersweet is the invasive variety with the ability to girdle and overpower natural vegetation. Double check the identification tag when purchasing, making sure that the plant is American Bittersweet. American Bittersweet vines up and over an arbor with tiny white flowers in the spring, dark green foliage in the summer and bright red/orange berries the fall. A mature female plant will produce flowers that develop into berries. Located at the end of the woody stem, the berries make attractive arrangements indoors and food for birds outdoors. A new variety, Summer Rhapsody, has been developed by the University of Minnesota. This new variety does not need both female and male plants for berries to form. Bittersweet requires full sun, regular garden soil, and a 6 -10 foot arbor or trellis to climb and grow. American bittersweet is losing its natural habitat of woodlands, fence rows, and open prairies but can still be found in the Midwest. American bittersweet would be a rewarding addition to a native garden. Gourds Fall is a ‘bittersweet’ time for gardeners. In one respect the gardener is reflective on a successful season but sad to see blooms fade. The addition of gourds to a fence row or on a 6 foot trellis will hide the fading foliage of other plants. Gourds are members of the pumpkin family and sometimes confused with pumpkins and squash. Gourds are one of the oldest cultivated plants. Egyptians used them for water bottles and as utensils, storage containers, and dippers by indigenous peoples of North America. They can be found at farmer’s markets designed as bird houses and other items. Numerous varieties of gourds are easy to grow in regular garden soil and can be planted around other crops. Gourd vines have tiny tendrils that reach for wire or another plant to twine around. They will also trail on the ground. Gourds are interesting for color, shape, texture, and color. Preparation of gourds for carving is a year long process. After the frost has killed the vines, arrange the harvested gourds in a shed or dry garage. Let the gourds dry for 6 months to a year. Then, using a small sharp tool make an incision and clean out the inside. Seeds will rattle in dry gourds. Scrub the exterior to remove dirt and let the gourd dry before painting. Gourds are hard shelled so unlike the soft-shelled pumpkin they will last in an indoor arrangement. American bittersweet and gourds will extend your gardens life. Gifting a gourd and bittersweet to friends is a particularly enjoyable activity at the end of the growing season. Photo credits: Gail Maifeld (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Wander the Winter Wonderlands of Minnesota Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener As we embark into our Minnesota winter, let’s wander into the many winter wonderlands in our state. The landscape is transforming into a quiet, snow-covered land, where nature’s beauty takes on a serene and magical existence. Many Minnesota outdoor and indoor garden sights are offered in the winter with opportunities of quiet meditation, reconnection with nature and new interaction with our environment. Let’s explore the winter garden possibilities available to us in Minnesota in this article. GO OUTSIDE Many options exist in Minnesota to embrace the magic of the landscape, dusted with the delicate powder of snow and its meditative stillness. Also, some places allow for more active winter interaction, like cross country skiing, snow shoeing, ice skating or snowmobiling. Here are some suggestions: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum: Trails for driving, walking, snow showing, cross country skiing. https://arb.umn.edu/winter St. Paul Winter Farmers’ Market: Featuring many Minnesota grown or made products available during the off-season, such as meats, cheese, eggs, honey, bakery goods, and milk. https://minnesotagrown.com/member/st-paul-downtown-farmers-winter-mkt/ Walker Sculpture Garden: View the larger-than-life sculptures, including the infamous Spoonbridge and Cherry. https://walkerart.org/visit/garden/ Franconia Sculpture Park : Acres of outdoor sculptures on hand, with a Midwinter Celebration, held in January. https://www.franconia.org/about/ Gold Medal Park: Located in the heart of Minneapolis, along the Mis sissippi River, with spectacular views of Downtown. https://www.nps.gov/miss/planyourvisit/goldmedal.htm Rice Park: In the middle of downtown St. Paul, it hosts the St. Paul Winter Carnival. https://www.familyfuntwincities.com/rice-park-st-paul/ The trails of our many Dakota County-area parks, including: Lebanon Hills Regional Park, Whitetail Woods Regional Park, Mississipi River Greenway, Spring Lake Park Reserve. WARM UP INSIDE Como Conservatory : A plethora of indoor gardens, including the sunken garden, bonzai collection, fern room and orchid house. https://comozooconservatory.org/category/como-gardens/ Minneapolis Farmers’ Market : At a few different locations, these farmers’ markets can fill your hunger for Minnesota grown produce and products. https://farmersmarketsofmpls.org/winter-markets/ Conservatory and Botanical Collection at UMN College of Biological Sciences Conservatory : Come see this unique and extensive, indoor plant collection. https://cbs.umn.edu/conservatory Edinborough Park: Come play at the indoor playground and ice rink in Edina, surrounded by indoor gardens, ponds and water falls. https://mngardens.horticulture.umn.edu/edinborough-park These are just some of many winter wonderland choices in Minnesota. Get out there this winter, and sample its wonder! When you come back inside, your cheeks rosy from the cold and your mind filled with peaceful images, you realize that winter isn’t something to endure—it’s something to embrace. Other sources of fun: https://mngardens.horticulture.umn.edu/view-by-season Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Chicken Curry Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Cooking in the winter is a time to fill your kitchen with tempting, warming fragrances that are new and exciting. This Chicken Curry recipe does just that. It also makes use of the carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, peppers and cilantro that you may have in your freezer from last season’s garden. Cooking in the winter is a time to fill your kitchen with tempting, warming fragrances that are new and exciting. This Chicken Curry recipe does just that. It also makes use of the carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, peppers and cilantro that I have in my freezer from last season’s garden. Chicken Curry – serves 4, over rice [ Ingredients: Spice blend: 1 ½ tsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp turmeric ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground black pepper ¼ tsp ground mustard ¼ tsp ground cloves Curry: 1 T olive oil 1 c chopped onion 4 minced garlic cloves 1 T peeled and minced fresh ginger 1 cup chicken broth ¾ cup diced tomatoes ¾ cup sliced carrots ½ cup sliced parsnips ½ cup chopped green peppers Salt Cayenne pepper to taste 1 ½ lbs boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1 ¼ inch cubes 1 tsp cornstarch mixed with 2 tsp water 1/3 cup milk or almond milk 2 T chopped cilantro Directions In a small mixing bowl whisk together all of the spices in the spice blend, set aside. Heat olive oil in a 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add in onion and sauté until slightly golden brown, about 4 - 6 minutes. Add in garlic and ginger, sauté 30 seconds more then add in spice blend and sauté 30 seconds. Pour in chicken broth and tomatoes and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer 5 minutes. Pour mixture into a blender then cover with lid and remove lid insert, cover opening with a clean folded kitchen rag. Blend mixture until well pureed. In the now empty skillet, add carrots, parsnips and peppers, cook 5 minutes until tender. You may need to add a little water or oil. Return the blender mixture to skillet, stir, and heat over medium-high heat. Season sauce with salt and cayenne pepper (start with about 1/2 tsp salt and a few dashes cayenne then add more to taste). Add in chicken. Bring to a simmer then reduce heat to medium-low, cover skillet with lid and simmer until chicken has cooked through, stirring occasionally, about 8 - 12 minutes. During the last minute of cooking stir in the cornstarch and water slurry if desired, to thicken sauce slightly (or if needed thin with a little chicken broth). Stir in cream/almond milk, then serve warm with cilantro over basmati rice. My husband, who does not like curry, loved this recipe. I think that’s because it doesn’t contain any curry! The spice blend is a fresh, light mixture instead of the pre-made spice purchased at the grocery store. Enjoy! Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)