< Back Sunflowers - Bright, Beautiful and Fun to Grow Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to see the entire life cycle of a plant. This article explains how to engage in this fun and easy learning opportunity. Julie Henrichs Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to experience the entire life cycle of a plant. Sunflowers are ideal for planting with children because sunflower seeds are large in size for easy handling, tolerates dry or drought conditions and also is fairly low maintenance. Sunflowers are also “giving” plants - bees and bugs benefit from the flowers while birds eat the seeds produced. Let’s Get Planting Sunflower seeds come in all varieties, size and many colors ranging from yellow, orange, bronze, red, burgundy and even white with a variation of mixed petals. Allow your children to choose the type of sunflower to grow and then ask why they chose the one they did? Was it for the height, the extra fuzzy looking flower or simply the color? If you have height restrictions, refer to seed package for height and spacing guidelines. We think of sunflower seeds always being planted in the ground, but they can also be planted in containers. Choosing the best finished container is important and make sure to base the size of container by the plant height. Items Needed: Appropriately sized planting container (base size on final height of plant) with good drainage Sunflower Seeds Potting Soil Water in watering can or spray bottle Plant labels (optional) Gardening Gloves (optional) Let’s get started: Fill containers with potting soil, leaving dirt an inch away from the rim of the container. Once the container is filled, tap down lightly and add any potting soil as needed. Children can poke a small hole with their finger into the soil. Open the seed packet and have your child plant the seeds about 1-2 inches into the soil in the hole. Seeds can be spaced approximately 6-12 inches apart depending on the sunflower seed type. (refer to the back of the package for planting depth and spacing) Cover seeds and tamp down soil Water gently with a watering can being careful not to disrupt the newly planted seeds or spritz the soil with water making sure the soil is wet Set the newly planted containers in full sun. Continue to check the new plantings for watering needs at least once or twice a day. Once the seedlings have emerged, continue to check to make sure the soil remains moist, but not saturated. Seeds start to grow 1-1 ½ weeks after planting. As your sunflower begins to grow it may require staking to keep the plant upright, especially in strong winds. Sunflowers are unique in that they begin as a seed and also end as a seed. The sunflower plant produces a sunflower bloom/head. When the sunflower head starts to turn brown, the sunflowers can be cut off and either they can be left for birds and other insects or they can be dried and then used later. Sunflowers provide so many benefits – a fun and educational gardening experience, a beautiful display and food for birds and insects. Let’s get planting! Photo Credit: flickr.com (1,2), backgardener.com (3)

< Back Ground Cover Plants May Be Just What You Need Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Whatever stage your garden is in, there is one plant that you can always find space for but is often an afterthought in the garden. This article will guide you through the uses, care, and selections of our Perennial Plant of the Month: Ground Covers. Walking through the gates of your local nursery is sure to stir up feelings of excitement and inspiration. After a long, gray winter, it’s hard not to be pulled towards all the colors and textures that were missing over the season and imagine where you could find room in your garden to fit them all. Maybe your garden is well seasoned and as summer progresses, bursts at the seams. Or maybe you’re in the beginning stages and there is a lot of space left for your plants to mature. Whatever stage your garden is in, there is one plant that you can always find space for but is often an afterthought in the garden. This article will guide you through the uses, care, and selection for our Perennial Plant of the Month: Ground Covers. Each year, many of us fill in open spaces with annuals, however, you can save yourself time and expense by investing in some ground covers. This season I plan to fill a 50+ foot long by 5-foot-tall rock wall with as much creeping phlox as I can get my hands on. There is nothing better than having early signs of spring cascading over and across your landscape and knowing that it will return year after year, lusher and more vibrant than the year before. Beauty isn’t the only benefit that comes from incorporating ground covers into your garden. It may surprise you to learn that there are several ways ground covers can also help solve some common landscape challenges. Bugleweed USES On Slopes Many homeowners in Minnesota live on a property that has some level of slope, or perhaps a hilly, hard to mow area. Ground covers are a terrific option not only for erosion control, but to add something beautiful to your property where it might be challenging or unsafe to provide upkeep with a mower In Shade In mature landscapes, where spreading canopies cast wide shadows across the lawn, ground cover can be used to fill in spots where other plants won’t grow. They are also very happy growing over tree roots In High Traffic Areas If you’re looking to add some greenery to an area where kids and pets frequently run through, look no further than ground covers. Certain ground covers are durable enough to withstand foot traffic while maintaining form and sometimes even releasing a fragrance when disturbed Weed Control Weeds are opportunists. Adding ground cover to an open area gives weeds little hope in maturing when they must compete with a healthy carpet of ground cover In Gaps Rock walls and gaps between steppingstones are ideal locations to add ground cover which will help soften the rough landscape edges As Companion Plants Looking for a low growing perennial to keep the roots of your clematis cool? Add some ground cover plants! Kamtschaticum Sedum CARE As a low maintenance plant, ground covers don’t ask for much and in many cases, once established, can handle challenging soil and site conditions. Pruning is usually not needed unless you’re cutting out dead stems or spent flowers, or you need to tame a section for aesthetics or function, for instance clearing part of a path. SELECTION Before selecting a ground cover, be sure to consider your hardiness zone, soil and available light for the plant. No matter what your ground cover interest or need, you’re sure to find a ground cover plant that will fit the bill. Here are some ideas to get you started. Evergreen Creeping Phlox Candy Tuft Bugleweed Cotoneaster Bearberry Creeping Juniper Siberian Cypress Sedum Evergreen Periwinkle Bearberry Flowering / Fragrant Creeping Thyme Various varieties of sedum Sweet Woodruff Bugleherb (Bugleweed) Creeping Juniper Snow-in-Summer Soapwort Tolerates Light Foot Traffic Scotch Moss Bugleweed Creeping Jenny Large Fillers Lambs Ears Hosta Groundcover just may be the practical and economic answer to your gardening need. I little plant may go a long way. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3) & Julie Harris (2)

< Back A Tree for All Seasons: Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener For the smaller yard, a smaller tree can be just the right touch. A forty-foot oak might be a bit overpowering, but a so-called “understory tree” can be the perfect landscaping accent to make the house appear to be a welcoming homestead. One excellent candidate is the native Serviceberry. Over the next three months we’ll take a look at several native understory trees that could well fit the bill for that yard accent piece. One excellent candidate is the Serviceberry . It actually is a group of about twenty different species grouped under the genius Amelanchier . As you might expect such a heterogeneous group goes by several names in addition to serviceberry, including shadbush, shadwood or shadblow, sarvisberry (or just sarvis), juneberry, saskatoon, sugarplum, wild-plum or chuckley pear. They comprise a group of deciduous-leaved shrubs and small trees in the rose family. The complexity of genus and variety arise from Serviceberry’s propensity to hybridize. So, much variation in size and coloration exists within the genus. That’s why you should read the descriptive information carefully for whatever variety you select, to make sure its characteristics fit your needs. The origin of the name is up for grabs. One story has it that Serviceberry started blooming in early spring at the same time that the valleys in the Appalachian Mountains became passable and circuit-riding preachers could again hold church services. Another maintains that the blooming of Serviceberry announced the time that the thawing ground could again be broken so as to allow graves to be dug and those Dear Departed that had been in “cold storage” for the winter could be interred with proper services. A less colorful, and probably more reliable, proposition has it that the genus was named after the European Sorbus , a genus also of the rose family with a number of similarities. Serviceberry's outstanding fall color Amelanchier is native to most of North America, being more prolific in the Eastern states and provinces. They can grow as either a shrub or tree ranging in height from 6 to 25 feet with similar widths. Depending on the variety, they are hardy from Zones 2 through 9. Blooming in early spring, most produce beautiful five-petal blossoms ranging from pink to white to yellow. Although the blooms usually last no more than one to two weeks, the plant produces vibrant blue/green foliage which turns a brilliant bronze in the fall. After blooming, clusters of berries form on mature plants, ripening to a deep red, then purple, during the summer. The silvery bark provides a striking accent in winter. Like most native perennials, Amelanchier is a great favorite of pollinators. Serviceberry will form multiple stems However, such a desirable plant is not without its needs. Both deer and rabbits like to browse most varieties, so you should consider placing protective guards around the young trees for the first couple of years. Many insects and diseases that attack orchard trees also affect this genus, in particular trunk borers and rusts . In years when late flowers of Amelanchier overlap those of wild roses, pollinators may spread fire blight. Serviceberries do well in full sun (6 or more hours of direct sunlight) to part shade (2 to 6 hours). They do best in a moist, loamy, self drained soil that is a bit acidic. Some species do well in boggie areeas and can look great near ponds or streams. They look well in boarders to naturalized areas. Planting is done best in the fall or, preferably, in the spring. A thick mulch applied around the plant will help it establish itself. You’ll want to keep the mulch away from the bark itself, however. Water well and apply a bit of all –purpose fertilizer in the spring and you should be well on your way to having a dazzling year-round garden gem. Photo credits: Dan Mullen www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,3)

< Back Shrub Pruning in Late Summer Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners Some shrubs can be pruned later in the summer but not all of them. Some plants must be pruned right after they bloom so as to not cut off the beginning of next year’s blooms. Learn when it is okay to prune the shrubs in your yard. This article will tell you what you need about grooming your shrubs to keep them healthy and looking their best. Please note that this article discusses late summer pruning. Once Fall arrives, pruning should cease, except for storm damage of course. Pruning in fall encourages growth which will not harden off properly before temperatures fall, exposing that growth and the connected branch to injury or death. Late summer pruning is done for two reasons: 1) damage or disease removal and 2) shrub renovation. Those shrubs that bloom in the spring should be pruned right AFTER blooming so as to NOT cut off next year’s blooms. Lilacs, forsythia, mock orange, azaleas & rhododendron are examples of shrubs to be pruned after blooming in the spring. If renovation is more desirable than next year’s blooms, they can be pruned over the summer or even in the prime pre-spring pruning window. Renovation is often best undertaken when the actual shape of the leaf-covered plant is visible. Plant material damaged by storms, hail, pets, sports in the yard, etc. should always be removed for safety reasons and to limit input points on the plant for disease or insects. This is true in every season. Unless there is disease in the pruning, this material can be discarded with regular yard waste. Plants damaged by disease should be pruned to minimize the spread of the disease. Use the U of M Extension site to identify the problem. After pruning diseased material, sterilize tools and gloves used to halt the spread of the disease. Hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial wipes, Lysol, Pine-Sol and Listerine are all good disinfectants. Diseased material should NOT be put in the regular yard waste but should be placed in a plastic bag, sealed and set in the sun for several days before discarding in the regular trash. Late summer is a less busy time in the garden and is a good time to assess how your shrubs are working in your landscape. If some have become a little “aggressive” or even (horrors!) “shabby,” now is a good time to rein them in. Most deciduous shrubs can be pruned at this time to improve their shape and size. Note that this is NOT true of evergreens except Yews! Evergreens should only be pruned in the spring when their candles are present. The pruning goal is to reduce the plant to the size desired and thin out from the inside, removing inner branches to increase airflow through the plant which encourages healthy growth. Remove the oldest, woody stems right down to the base. One caveat - hedges are often prime nesting places for birds so check for “residents” before taking on that hedge. Wait until the fledglings have taken wing. Some plants which react well to late summer pruning: Roses - encourages fall bloom Alpine currant Barberry Burning Bush - Euonymus alatus Bush honeysuckle Buttonbush Coralberry Cotoneaster Dogwoods Elderberry Fothergilla Gro Low Sumac Ninebark Potentilla Privet St. John’s Wort Smokebush Viburnum Spirea Willow Yew Notice that hydrangea is absent from the list. Pruning hydrangea depends on the type of plant and varies widely. Also, most hydrangeas are in best bloom in late summer. Julie Weisenhorn has a good description of hydrangea pruning on this U of M Extension website . Remember that there are right and wrong ways to prune bushes. For advice about proper methods of pruning, look back at our article from the March 2022 Garden Buzz - March is a Great Time to Prune Many Trees and Shrubs – currently found on the Master Gardeners in Dakota County website. Some shrubs can be pruned later in the summer but not all of them, so get to know when it is okay to prune the shrubs in your yard. Photo Credit: www.forestryimages.org (creative commons) (1)

< Back The Herbal Kitchen By Kami McBride The Herbal Kitchen by Kamie McBride is a tremendous resource and beautifully written guide to expanding your herbal repertoire. Fifty herbs and spices are discussed with tips for preparing, storing, and using them, and over 250 recipes will have you inspired to add more herbs to your garden (what's one more bed?!) Read the full review to learn more! Reviewed by Kelly Vriezen, Master Gardener Herbs are a gift from nature. We grow them and enjoy their irresistible aromas and beautiful colors in delicious food, and sometimes we use them to support our overall health in other ways. You are probably already aware that ginger and peppermint soothe upset tummies, turmeric helps arthritis, and lavender and chamomile aid relaxation. Fresh basil and oregano can’t be beat for making homemade sauces burst with flavor. In The Herbal Kitchen, by Kamie McBride, you will find a tremendous resource and beautifully written guide to expanding your herbal repertoire. Fifty herbs and spices are discussed with tips for preparing, storing, and using them. Over 250 recipes will have you inspired to add more herbs to your garden (what's one more bed?) Whether you are just starting out on the herbal path or you are already familiar with herbs, there are recipes for everyone. You'll find cordials, salts, refreshing drinks, vinegars, infusions, sprinkles, baths and foot soaks, seasonal meal ideas, and more to inspire you to make herbs part of your daily routine. You will be eager to try new things and discover new ways of experiencing familiar flavors as Ms. McBride discusses what they do to bolster health even when just used to season our food. This book is a great read for anyone who enjoys cooking and wants to expand their knowledge of kitchen spices or add new ways to incorporate great flavor into everyday meals that also promote health. Photo credits: Amazon (1), Amanda Kae/Flickr (2)

< Back Yellowwood (Cladrastis kentuckea): A Rare Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you heard of or planted Yellowwood? It is one of the rarest of native shade trees. But Yellowwood is large, beautiful native tree that will grow well in Minnesota. Yellowwood has a special feature in the spring that Master Gardener Jim Lakin discusses in this article. Read more about this unique native tree. Yellowwood is one of the rarest of native shade trees, naturally occurring in the Eastern to Central United States. It’s most often found on the limestone cliffs of Kentucky, Tennessee and North Carolina. However, it is hardy through Zone 4 and thus a suitable planting for southern and central Minnesota. And, indeed, it is well worth considering as a gracious addition to your landscape. Yellowwood grows to a height of from 30 to 50 feet with a broad rounded crown and a smooth bark. The name yellowwood comes from its yellow heartwood, used in small amounts for specialist furniture and decorative woodturning. Although it is of great value as a shade tree, one of its most spectacular features is its flowering. In late May to early June, Yellowwood produces long, white clumps of wisteria-like flowers some 6 to 12 inches long. Flowering intensity varies from year to year with a profuse output every second to third year. In the fall, the leaves turn a mix of yellow, gold and orange. Quite a show! As you might expect, the nativar is a good source for pollinators, attracting a variety of butterflies and bees. Mature Yellowwoods In siting a Cladrastis kentuckea , do remember that it is a full-sized tree and should be spaced appropriately. It does best in full sun, in well-drained soil. It is quite tolerant of both acidic and alkaline soils. You might want to mulch heavily over winter for the first couple of years, as it is establishing itself in our bracing Minnesota climate. It looks great on a naturalized border. That’s something to consider if you have some woodland. Also, it is surprisingly tolerant of urban settings, although I’m not sure if it would be a candidate for your “hell strip” (what landscapers call the area between the sidewalk and street). Several cultivars of Yellowwood have been developed. “Perkins Pink” is a nice one with, as the name implies, pink rather than white flowers. A diminutive sister is “Kentucky Yellowwood”. This is a medium-sized tree suitable for ornamental gardens. It does, however, have the tendency to divide its trunk near the ground. This tendency seems to be widespread among the various Yellowwood strains. This bothers some folks although I think it imparts a distinctive character to the tree. Spring flowers of yellowwood So, if you are looking for a luxuriant, summer shade tree that puts on a show each spring and fall, consider Yellowwood. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota (1,2)

< Back Propagating House Plants Gail Baxter and Marie Stolte, Master Gardeners Winter blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. January blahs got you down? Bring more green into your home by propagating your houseplants. It’s easier than you think for many plant varieties, and it’s a fun way to spend part of a gray day. Each plant species has its own preferred way to be propagated. Some prefer division (see list below) where a single plant is separated into two or more. Other plants start easily from cuttings (think philodendrons; stem pieces of 6” or so root easily in a glass of water). Some cuttings, like jade plant, can be started in seedless potting medium instead of water. And then, there are the cuttings that can be propagated from a single leaf, or even part of a leaf. Propagate from cuttings: Jade plant, aloe, hoya, Christmas cactus, snake plant, croton, Philodendron, Rex begonias, dragon wing begonias, kalanchoe, English ivy, dracaena, hen and chicks, pothos, African violet Propagate by division: Anthurium, peace lily, snake plant, pilea, dracaena, ZZ plant, spider plant (or plant the baby offsets) Fun with Rex Begonias By January, I am usually ready to propagate more Rex begonias . They come in many colors, and every year, I seem to buy a new variety to fill my summer containers. I bring them indoors in the fall and overwinter them as houseplants. To propagate them, I gather my materials: soil-less seed starting mix (or, you can use a 50-50 mix of perlite and vermiculite), cutting board, pruning shears and a razor blade (both sterilized with rubbing alcohol or bleach water), pins (I used quilter’s pins and T-pins), and a take-out container with a lid (punch several holes in the bottom). Step 1: Fill the nursery tray with the seed starting mix. Wet it well; when you gather a handful of soil and squeeze it, the soil should hold together but not be dripping. Step 2: Cut a healthy leaf with your pruners. Middle aged leaves work well, rather than very old or very young leaves. Cut off the stem so all that is left is the leaf. Step 3: Turn the leaf over so you can see the veins. Make a perpendicular cut across each of the largest veins with the razor blade. Step 4: With the leaf vein cuts facing down, press the leaf onto the soil and pin to hold the cuts firmly against the soil. Cover the container with the clear plastic lid, and put on a windowsill that receives indirect light—not direct sunlight, which can bake the tiny plants that emerge. Check the soil every few days and water if it starts to dry out. Within 6 to 8 weeks, baby leaves should appear near the site of each vein cut. Remove the plastic lid at this point. When the leaves are about a half-inch across, carefully separate the baby plants from each other and pot them individually in 3-inch pots. Look up your plant, and get propagating! Each plant type will have specific instructions for the type of soil to use for propagation, lighting, and other requirements. Look to the U of M Extension library or other trusted source for your specific plant. For instance, if you have cacti and Succulents or holiday cacti to propagate, the University offers tips on the environment these plants need to thrive. Propagating can become your creative outlet, too. Learn more about how to display your cuttings of 22 indoor plants and 17 more plants you can propagate from Planteria on YouTube. Propagating plants is fun to do. You can keep and raise the new plants, or share them with others so they can enjoy a little green, too. And remember: your houseplants could even become the next stars in your summer planters. Photo credits: Marie Stolte (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Wild Rice (Manoonmin): Minnesota’s Official State Grain Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, please click here. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that wild rice is not actually rice but a grain from aquatic grass? It is also the only cereal grain native to North America and is endemic to the Great Lakes area (Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Central-South Canada). If you are interested in learning about the history and harvesting of wild rice, read on. Wild rice is called Manoomin (“good berry/seed”) by the Anishinaabe. The French settlers called it “folle avoine” (fool’s or wild oats). English settlers called it wild rice or Indian Rice. For the Anishinaabe, wild rice represents spiritual significance, cultural identity and connection to the land. Wild rice also provides nutritional and economic value for the tribe. Wild rice, an aquatic grass, grows naturally in peat and clay-soils of shallow, slow moving waters within rivers and lakes. Some Anishinaabe still harvest wild rice by canoe using flailing/winnowing/knocker sticks to capture the reeds and then knock the ripened grain into the bottom of the canoe. Grain that doesn’t reach the canoe is seed for the following year. But the manual work does not stop there. Manual harvesting also includes: Parching—heating the rice to dry it out and loosen the hulls while not burning the rice Dancing – traditionally the rice was danced upon to thrash the hulls. Nowadays, a rice husking machine called a trasher may be used Winnowing – refers to separating the hulls and chaff from the grain. Traditionally, this is done by using birch bark bowls and the wind carries away the hulls, leaving the heavier grain in the bowls Finishing – involves cleaning and sorting the rice either by hand or with machines. Today, most of the wild rice you see in stores is cultivated. In the 1950s, entrepreneur farmers began experimenting with growing techniques by creating flooded paddies. They then modified harvesting machinery to be used after draining the paddies. Minnesota is now one of the largest producers of wild rice and harvests 5 -15 million pounds annually on 15,000 acres! The three areas where you see the most cultivated rice being grown in Minnesota are: Clearbrook/Gonvick, Kalliher/Waskish, and Aitkin/Deer River. Of note, California is also a major commercial producer with smaller amounts grown in Canada, Wisconsin, Oregon, and Idaho. Regardless of where grown, cultivated wild rice fields serve as a great resource for wildlife. Overall, wild rice is important in Minnesota food traditions in both the native and European-American communities. Wild rice is high in protein, fiber, potassium and phosphorus and is an excellent source of B vitamins. It can be used in soups, casseroles, breads, and meats to name just a few. And did we mention that wild rice is delicious?! https://www.7generations.org/how-to-harvest-and-prepare-wild-rice-manoomin/ https://plpa.cfans.umn.edu/news/castellmillerwildrice https://wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/sites/wildricebreedingandgenetics.umn.edu/files/2020-11/Ecological%20importance_11_13_20_jak.pdf https://corn.aae.wisc.edu/Crops/WildRice.aspx Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database, https://wildrice.umn.edu/grants-and-projects (1) University of Minnesota, https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/resources (2) Lisa Olson (3)

< Back Dividing Irises and Peonies Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Intern Now that the Peony and Iris blossoms are gone for the season it's the perfect time to dig and divide the crowded plants. This article will help you prepare these plants for next year's season of beautiful blooms. The dog days of summer are upon us. It’s a great time to enjoy the fruits of your labors by harvesting fruits and veggies you have meticulously tended. Or maybe your garden presents a feast for your eyes, exploding with color or calming the senses with cool and shady textures. Before you get too comfortable sitting back and taking it all in, now is the perfect time to dig in and divide your crowded peonies and irises as their showy blossoms have faded away until next year. Dividing Irises The US Forest Service tells us there are approximately 280 species of irises in the world; this article will focus on the bearded iris. It is undeniably a popular choice among gardeners and it’s no wonder because of the rainbow of colors they provide in the garden. In fact, the origin of their name can be traced back to Greek mythology where Iris was the messenger traveling on a rainbow between the heavens and earth, thus the meaning of the name Iris is rainbow. Author Madison Moulton, a historian and political scientist, writes that cultivation of the iris plant can be traced back 2000 years to ancient Egypt. Throughout the centuries, it became a royal symbol, making its appearance on royal banners and coats of arms as the fleur-de-lis. In more recent times, the bearded iris, or Iris germanica, was named the state flower of Tennessee, and the fleur-de-lis is also the symbol of New Orleans. Now that you know the history of this garden beauty, it’s time to learn about how to divide this noble plant to keep it healthy and blooming in your garden for years to come. The University of Illinois Extension reminds us that the hundreds of species of irises can be separated into two groups – rhizomatous and bulbous. The bulbous irises are planted in the fall along with other fall planted bulbs. The bearded iris, however, falls into the group of rhizomes. Rhizomes are underground stems that store food for the plant. The University of Minnesota Extension points out that during August, irises tend to go dormant, making it the perfect time to divide them. As irises mature, rhizomes keep producing more and more rhizomes and crowd themselves out. Benefits of regular division every three to five years include more profuse flowering, and it helps prevent problems like iris borer and soft rot. The University of Illinois Extension suggests dividing that often, especially if your iris patch is producing noticeably fewer blooms. Using a shovel or pitchfork, carefully lift the plants out of the soil. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension offers the tip to water the ground thoroughly the day before if the soil is particularly dry to make lifting the plants easier. If possible, try to lift an entire clump and divide the rhizomes once you have lifted it and shaken or washed off the soil to inspect the rhizomes. If you notice any soft spots on the rhizomes or dark streaks on the leaves, iris borers are probably to blame. Extract and kill any caterpillars you find and use a sharp, clean knife or shears to cuts away any damaged parts. Any soft, smelly, or rotted material should be destroyed rather than placing it in the compost. As Penn State Extension suggests, you can probably break apart the rhizomes with your hands, but if you need to use a knife, it is a good idea to dip it in a 10% bleach and water solution after each cut. The University of Wisconsin-Madison tells us to make sure each new plant division has a firm rhizome, is light-colored, at least 3 inches long with healthy roots, and has a fan of leaves. Penn State Extension adds that a good rhizome should be about as thick as your thumb. While dividing your iris, it is recommended you cut back the leaves to about a third of their height. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension notes that this makes the plants easier to work with and helps reduce transpiration while the plant becomes reestablished. Using clean shears works fine for this step. Now it is time to plant! Penn State Extension instructs us to dig a shallow hole 10 inches across by 4 inches deep and to build up a small mound of soil in the center. Set the rhizome on the mound with the roots cascading down the mound into the hole. Fill the hole with dirt leaving the top of the rhizome just visible. A common mistake is to plant irises too deep. Penn State Extension also recommends that for the most attractive display, plant single rhizomes or groups of three, 12 to 18 inches apart, with the fans of leaves all facing the same direction. Water thoroughly and do not add mulch to avoid rot. Dividing Peonies Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong once sang, “Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off” when they couldn’t agree if it was a tomato or tomahto or potato or potahto. Here is a question for you: Do you call it a pee-uh-nee or pee-o-nee? According to dictionary.com , the correct pronunciation is… pee-uh-nee. With that settled, let’s learn about dividing peonies. Unlike irises that thrive from frequent divisions, it is said that a peony plant left in the garden may well outlive the gardener! Peonies can go 50 to even 100 years without needing to be divided. However, that does not mean a gardener should never divide a peony plant. Reasons for dividing may be to have more peonies for free, to share, or to bring along part of a peony if a gardener is moving yet wants to keep a plant that has been in the family for generations. Iowa State University Extension suggests that September is the best time to divide peonies. They recommend to first cut back the stems nearly to ground level. Next, carefully dig up the plant and then wash or shake the soil off the roots. Penn State Extension reminds us to remove any rotted material. The University of Illinois Extension notes that if dividing a large mature plant, you may dig up just half of the plant at a time. Use a sharp knife to divide the tuberous main root, called the crown, so that each wedge includes three to five pink or white-colored buds, or eyes, and one to two large main roots so that it can gather enough energy to provide for next year’s growth. Dig a generous hole and plant the new clumps so that the three to five “pink eyes’ are pointed side up and one to two inches below ground level, and space the plants two to three feet apart. Fill the hole back up with soil. University of Illinois Extension recommends for best results to add about an inch of organic matter such as compost or peat along with an inch of topsoil to cover the pink or white eyes. Be sure to water regularly throughout the fall if it doesn’t rain. It is also a good idea to apply mulch before winter. By following these steps, you should have happy, healthy plants that will continue to provide you with beautiful flowers for years to come. Photos credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2, 3, 4), Lisa Olson (5), University of Pennsylvania Extension (6)

< Back Obedient Plant or False Dragonhead (Physostegia virginiana): An Obliging Beautiful Beast Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener “False Dragonhead” is so named because its flowers look like menacing dragons (if you’ve been binging on Game of Thrones). It picked up the “false” from being erroneously classified under the genus of “true” dragonheads, Drachocephalum, at one time. Regardless of it’s rather forbidding name, “False Dragonhead” can be a wonderful plant in your native garden. This article explains why. Physostegia sp. acquired one of its common names from the remarkable property of its stalks staying where you bend them. I have observed that this ability to obediently stay put is unique among plants and grandchildren. Its other common name, “false dragonead “stems from its flowers looking like menacing dragons (if you’ve been binging on Game of Thrones ). It picked up the “false” from being erroneously classified under the genus of “true” dragonheads, Drachocephalum, at one time. Whatever you choose to call it, Physostegia virginiana is a lovely native perennial plant producing white to soft pink or pale lavender tubular flowers arranged on a spike at the top of a two-to-four-foot stem. Its showy blooms appear for about a month in late summer into early fall. Since it propagates by underground rhizomes it will form extensive thickets given the right conditions with moist, rich soil. It is a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae) and can be a bit aggressive. Thus, Obedient Plant usually works better in natural rather than traditional gardens. Its closely related cousin, Physostegia angustifolia, has less of a spreading tendency, forming looser clumps. It might be an alternative for more formal garden settings. Either species will attract pollinators with long proboscises such as sphinx moths, bumblebees and butterflies. The adult plant seems to be pretty deer resistant. If you are planning a garden spot of mixed native perennials, you might consider pairing Obedient Plant with Queen of the Prairie ( Filipendula rubra ), Joe Pye Weed ( Eutrochium maculatum) and/or Blazing Star ( Liatris spicata ). Since obedient plant is native to most of Eastern North America including the Midwest, it usually does quite well in Minnesota, once established (USDA Zones 3-9). As we mentioned, it prefers moist to medium soils as are found in open floodplain woodlands, wet prairies or wetland edges. It likes full sun but can do well in partial shade. It can be propagated easily by division of clumps. To grow from seed, cold stratification for 60 days is needed before germination. When planting, allow one to two feet spacing. How ever you choose to come by this lovely native perennial, it will be an attractive pollinator-friendly addition to your garden. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com

< Back The Short-lived Beauty of Blooming Cactus Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Various cacti can provide gardening pleasure in Minnesota both outside in the summer and inside during the cold weather. There are thousands of varieties of cacti, many of which are different and exotic, in other words, pretty cool. But there are some tricks to growing cacti successfully. Here are some tips on growing healthy cacti and getting them to re-bloom. A long time ago, I thought growing cactus would be a piece of cake. Just set the little cactus I’d picked up at Home Depot on the window sill, ignore it for six months and then give it a little water. I thought I would be extravagantly rewarded for all my effort. NOT! Within a month the cactus had shriveled up and died. I did some research, mostly to convince myself that it really wasn’t all my fault it had died, but I found out it was. Short and sweet, here is what I’ve learned about growing cactus over the years. First, they need a growing medium that is 60% sand/small gravel and 40% cactus potting soil. Second, it is best to grow them in a traditional, non-glazed clay pot with a clay saucer underneath the hole in the bottom of the pot. This allows them to dry out thoroughly between waterings. Third, they should be watered once a week, not flooded, but enough to get the soil thoroughly wet. Don’t water them if they are not all the way dry. Fourth, they need light. In the winter my cacti (all 52 of them) are in my house in front of south and west facing windows. They go semi dormant in the cool basement and only need ¼ cup of water every two weeks. This allows them to rest. In the spring, I bring them upstairs, where there is more light, and give them a little cactus fertilizer (half the recommended dose) with every other watering. When outdoor day time temperatures are above 65 degrees and all chance of frost is past, I move them all outdoors. If possible, a week in a shaded area is a good transition before placing them in full sun. Because I have so many, they don’t all get treated to shade before being placed in the full sun, I simply don’t have the space. A few have gotten sunburned spots on them, but all have survived. It doesn’t matter if they get poured on by a summer thunderstorm. They seem to love the extra moisture, as long as they are in pots that drain and can dry out. I occasionally fertilize them during the summer, but not too often. It’s important to place them out of harm’s way, where they won’t get blown over, or bumped by passersby. In June and July, you may be rewarded by these stunning blooms. They only last 24 hours, but they are simply breath taking. This year, we had one cactus that bloomed in both June and July (usually they only bloom once a year). Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus also enjoy being outside in the summertime. Make sure they aren’t in full sun, they definitely like it a little shady. We have one large cactus that I call a dragon’s head cactus because it’s flowers really look like a dragon head with its mouth wide open. Every summer I’ve put it outside, it gets tiny brown spots all over it. I bring it in before the first frost and it rewards me with blooms in January. The brown spots fade once it’s been in the house for a month or so. I’m thinking it doesn’t like being outdoors, even in the shade. But I like the extra space I have in the house during the summer once all 52 cactuses have been moved to their outdoor summer homes! I don’t know the scientific names for all our cactuses, many seem to have been mislabeled, simple called “Euphorbia” or my favorite, “cactus”. We just enjoy them, after all a cactus by any other name will still look stunning. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3)

< Back Bitter Melon – The Bumpy, Spiky Gourd Loved ‘Round the Sub-Tropical World’ How about growing “bitter melon” for a change of pace. You may not be familiar with this vegetable as it is more widely grown in the tropics and subtropics. But bitter melon can be grown in Minnesota and has many health benefits. Read on to learn more about how to grow this lesser-known vegetable and when you are finished, read the Garden to Kitchen article about how to use bitter melon. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Bitter melon, also known as bitter squash, bitter apple, bitter gourd, balsam-pear, and many other non-English names, is a widely grown vegetable, especially in the tropics and sub-tropics. It is classified in the Momordia genus within the Cucurbitaceae family and is indeed shaped much like the cucumber you may have growing in your backyard garden. Depending on the species grown though, its exterior may be light green and bumpy or warty-looking (for the longer “Chinese” type) or darker green and spiky-looking (shorter “Indian” type). The cold weather-sensitive bitter melon plant will grow as a perennial in growing zones 9-11 but will thrive only as an annual in Minnesota during hot, humid months in full sun. Seeds should be started indoors 4 weeks before the last frost date and planted outdoors into warm, compost-rich soil or into a container. Seeds can also be sown directly into warm soil, however, getting these seeds to germinate can test the patience of any earnest Minnesota gardener. A helpful and quicker germination method involves wrapping the seeds in a damp paper towel on a shallow plate over a seedling heat mat. This process may take up to 7 days and nights, depending on the age of the seeds, but usually results in tiny shoots growing quickly inside the paper towel. Using this method may also require hardening off to prevent shock from temperature changes. At planting, trellis support should be provided. The bitter melon plant will produce long, light green vines with deep green, multi-lobed leaves and curly tendrils that appear delicate, but keep a tight grip on nearly anything within reach. 3 to 4 weeks after planting, the plants will produce bright yellow flowers; the male flowers appearing before the female flowers. Soil should be kept moist throughout the growing season, but not soaked. Momordia species can thrive on compost from household scraps but would otherwise benefit from a biweekly feeding of 5-10-10 slow-release fertilizer. Two-three weeks after flower drop, female flowers will produce fully grown fruits. Chinese type bitter melons measure 6-10 inches in length and Indian type fruits will grow to an average of 4-8 inches. As with any vegetable, it can be tempting to see how large they will grow, but if left on the vine too long, bitter melons will overripen, burst open and release their seeds. The best indication of harvest readiness is the color of the fruit’s exterior. Bitter melons should be harvested before their skin turns yellow. For ideas about how bitter melons are eaten, click on the Garden to Kitchen article! Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1, 3 Rawpixel (all creative commons) 2