< Back Don’t Let Powdery Mildew Haunt You! Cherise Skeba, Dakota County Master Gardener Powdery mildew is a very common garden fungus. This fungus was even more prevalent last year when our abundant rainfall increased our summer humidity. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Read this very informative article to understand what powdery mildew is, how it affects plants, what you can do to prevent it and how to control it when it happens. If you experienced powdery mildew in your garden during 2024, what can you do, if anything, to ensure the fungus does not continue to haunt your garden this year? Remember how the weather affected your garden last year? Dakota County received an extra 4” to 5” of rain and the average temperature during the 2024 gardening season compared with the average for the previous 25 years. The extra rainfall increased humidity and helped produce an abundance of powdery mildew in many Minnesota gardens. If your garden plants suffered from powdery mildew, you are not alone. Powdery mildew is one of the most prevalent crop diseases in the world,,3 affecting hundreds of types of plants including many common garden vegetables and flowers. This article explores what you can do to reduce the chances of last year’s powdery mildew returning to haunt your garden this year. What is powdery mildew? Powdery mildew is a fungal disease stemming from several different pathogens that vary by host plant. Plants with early infections of powdery mildew may have yellow spots, dark blotches, discoloring and lesions on leaves, usually on the upper surface of newer leaves and lower leaves. The disease then progresses to include a ghostly-white, powder-like substance (image 1) on leaves and stems. If left unchecked, powdery mildew will quickly spread to cover the plant and wither the leaves and stems. The pathogen can spread from 10% of the leaves to 70% of the leaves in a week2. A severe infection will cause leaves to drop off and can significantly reduce fruit and flower production. The white spores of powdery mildew eventually mature into brown and black pinhead-sized spheres caed cleistothecia or chasmothecia (image 2). Cleistothecia will survive the winter and release new powdery mildew spores in the spring. ,,10 Powdery mildew fungal spores infect only plants’ surface structures to take up nutrients and do not invade interior plant tissues. Therefore, it is rare that powdery mildew kills a plant but the plant may appear to be decimated. 2,10 Minnesota weather and powdery mildew. Powdery mildew requires humidity (but not necessarily the presence of water on the leaves) for spore germination. Humidity refers to the amount of water vapor in the air. Humidity will increase around plants when the ground around the plants is wet and ground moisture steams into the air. Variable relative humidity during the garden season will help promote powdery mildew. Relative humidity refers to the ratio of water vapor in the air versus the maximum water vapor possible in the air at a specific temperature. The maximum water vapor level is lower at lower temperatures. Therefore, for a fixed humidity level, relative humidity rises as the temperature falls. High relative humidity stimulates powdery mildew fungal reproduction while low relative humidity helps disperse fungal spores. Although powdery mildew requires humidity, the disease does not flourish in cool, rainy conditions.5 In fact, extended rainfall can help wash powdery mildew spores off leaves, inhibit germination and potentially kill powdery mildew spores. Powdery mildew spreads most rapidly in warm, cloudy12 weather (60o-80o F) and the spread decelerates in cool and hot weather.5 Note that leaf temperatures on sunny days are warmer than the surrounding air temperatures and leaf temperatures above 95o F are fatal to some (if not all) powdery mildews.2,4 All of the weather preferences mentioned above mean that powdery mildew thrives when days are warm and relatively dry (spreads spores) while nights are warm and humid (germinates spores).5 Unfortunately, this recipe aligns with Minnesota summer conditions making powdery mildew a frequent pathogen in our gardens. Prevent: what to do before a powdery mildew outbreak. While you cannot control the weather, you can minimize garden conditions that encourage powdery mildew. Prevention of powdery mildew should be the primary focus of gardeners because the disease is very difficult to eradicate once the disease is established in a garden.5 Frequently examine leaves and stems for a potential powdery mildew outbreak since early detection and action are critical to reducing the spread of the disease.5,12 Choose sunnier garden spots , when possible, for plant types that are more susceptible to powdery mildew since powdery mildew will grow more in shaded areas. Highly susceptible garden plants include apples, bee balm, begonias, columbine, cucumbers, grapes, lilacs, peas, peonies, phlox, potatoes, rhododendron, roses, rudbeckia, squash and zinnias.6,,,10,12 Increase airflow around plants to help reduce humidity and reduce moisture on plant leaves. Air flow will improve when you thin out plants, pull weeds, prune perennials, stake or trellis plants, and keep a space between plants and solid structures (e.g. keep plants 8”-12” from buildings).3,5,10,11 Avoid over-watering of plants , especially in areas with slow draining soil. Water at the base of the plants, not on the leaves, and water early in the morning to give the plants time to dry out before night fall.3 Plant garden varietals resistant to powdery mildew .5,12 Garden catalogs, seed packets and garden stores should provide information on the disease-resistant characteristics of plants.10,11 In addition, Cornell University provides a database of disease-resistant vegetable varietals. For example, Cornell reports that Avalanche snow peas and Cascadia snap peas are resistant to powdery mildew. Cornell’s 2025 information is based on 2018-22 data and should be confirmed, if possible, with plant-specific information for the current growing season. powdery mildew on Ninebark Control: what to do during a powdery mildew outbreak. If you identify powdery mildew in your garden, you should follow all the powdery mildew prevention recommendations and also take the following actions to help control the outbreak. It is important to act quickly when you diagnose powdery mildew in the garden since the pathogen spreads so rapidly. Trim off infected plant leaves and stems and remove the debris from the garden. Consider removing the entire plant if the infection has progressed significantly or if nearby plants are at risk of becoming infected.5,11 Trim off leaves near the ground and newer leaves and stems of the infected plants. Newer leaves are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Avoid fertilizing late in the season which encourages new plant growth.3,10 Sterilize tools that were used to trim plants infected with powdery mildew before using the tools on healthy plants. Tolerate small outbreaks of powdery mildew. The best management course may be tolerance of powdery mildew when the plant is beyond peak production and surrounding plants are not at risk. You may want to harvest full-grown pumpkins or squash in this situation to avoid powdery mildew attacking the fruit. Pumpkins and squash should last a couple of months if stored in a cool, dark spot after harvesting.11 Fungicides should only be used as a last resort since fungicides can harm both plants and insects.5 There are many fungicides that people have applied in attempts to control powdery mildew including milk, garlic, baking soda, neem oil, horticultural oils, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur and copper. Before choosing a fungicide, be sure to understand if the fungicide is a protectant (e.g. sulfur) or eradicant (e.g. oils) fungicide. Protectant fungicides only work if applied prior to a powdery mildew outbreak and usually require repeat applications. Eradicant fungicides work best if applied after a powdery mildew outbreak but before the outbreak becomes severe. Fungicides will not eliminate powdery mildew after the majority of leaves are infected.10 Be sure to follow any instructions provided on the fungicide packaging.3,6 There are a few specific situations where fungicides should be avoided even though powdery mildew is present in the garden. Fungicides should not be applied to late-season powdery mildew outbreaks when the autumnal leaves are close to dropping since the infection is not as harmful to the plant at that point.8 Fungicides should also not be applied to infected annual flowers or low-value perennial flowers since the fungicides can kill pollinators.10 Note that supporting research is very limited with regards to the efficacy of home remedies (e.g. milk, garlic, baking soda) for powdery mildew prevention or eradication. In addition, preventive and control activities should always be completed regardless of whether or not fungicides are applied. Fungicides are rarely necessary., Minimize: what to do after a powdery mildew outbreak. powdery mildew on peony Powdery mildew can survive winter on both live plants and plant debris. Therefore, powdery mildew is likely to recur once it is in your garden unless you take precautions to control the disease. Autumn and spring clean-ups are critical to breaking the cycle of last year’s powdery mildew outbreak. All annuals that were infected should be pulled and removed from the garden, preferably in autumn but spring cleaning is acceptable. Perennials should be pruned to remove infected plant material and to increase air flow. In addition, any plant debris in and around infected plants should be collected and removed from the garden. Do not till infected plant material into the ground as powdery mildew will continue to live in the plant material. Infected refuse should be burned or composted by a commercial composter. Home composting does not get hot enough for long enough to kill powdery mildew.3,5 Powdery mildew requires plant material to thrive. Therefore, you should not need to treat or remove wood chips or soil from powdery mildew areas. However, if the wood chips appear moldy after a powdery mildew outbreak, you may want to remove the wood chips as a precautionary measure. Because powdery mildew pathogens vary by host plant type, rotating plants (i.e. do not put the same plant type in the same space as last year) is key to minimizing the recurrence of powdery mildew. The following table provides groupings of common garden plants that are affected by the same specific powdery mildew pathogen2. If you had one of the plants shown in a group in your garden last year and those plants were infected by powdery mildew, you should avoid planting any of the plants in the same group in the same spot in your garden this year. Note that some plants are included in multiple groups indicating that those plants may be impacted by more than one powdery mildew pathogen. Powdery Mildew Pathogen Plants Impacted by Specific Pathogen2 Erysiphe cichoracearum Cucumbers, endive, lettuce, melons, potato, pumpkin, squash Erysiphe cruciferarum Cole crops (e.g. broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower), radicchio, radishes, turnips Erysiphe lycopersici Tomatoes Erysiphe pisi Peas Erysiphe heraclei Carrots, parsley, parsnips Erysiphe polygoni Beets Leveillula taurica Artichoke, eggplant, peppers, tomatillos, tomatoes Sphaerotheca fuliginea Beans, black-eyed peas, cucurbits (pumpkins, gourds, squash), okra Photo Credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Michigan State University, http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late- (2), University of Minnesota (3), University of Minnesota, M. Grabowski (4) 1 National Centers for Environmental Information, May-September 2024 compared with May-September 1999-2023, http://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/monitoring/climate-at-a-glance/county/time-series/MN-037/tavg/5/9/1999-2024?base_prd=true&begbaseyear=1999&endbaseyear=2023 2 EOS (Earth Observing System) Data Analytics, “Powdery Mildew: Effective Prevention And Treatment”, http://eos.com/blog/powdery-mildew/#:~:text=Powdery%20mildew%20is%20among%20the,would%20kill%20most%20other%20fungi . 3 Colorado State University, “Powdery Mildews”, http://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/powdery-mildews-2-902/ 4 Michigan State University, “Late-season control of powdery mildew in grapes”, Image 2 and content from http://www.canr.msu.edu/news/late-season_control_of_powdery_mildew_in_grapes_focus_on_inoculum_managemen 5 Penn State, “Addressing Downy Mildew and Powdery Mildew in the Home Garden”, http://extension.psu.edu/addressing-downy-mildew-and-powdery-mildew-in-the-home-garden#:~:text=In%20some%20plants%2C%20such%20as,oily%20spot%20on%20the%20leaves.&text=Powdery%20mildew%20looks%20like%20flour,across%20the%20top%20of%20leaves . 6 University of California, Davis, “Powdery Mildew on Ornamentals”, http://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/powdery-mildew-on-ornamentals/pest-notes/#gsc.tab=0 7 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=2289318 Western Massachusetts Master Gardener Assocication, “Powdery Mildew”, http://www.wmmga.org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=101643&module_id=228931 8 Iowa State University, “Powdery Mildew- Ornamental plants”, http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/encyclopedia/powdery-mildew-ornamental-plants 9 Cornell University, “Disease Resistant Vegetable Varieties”, http://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties 10 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in the flower garden”, http://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/powdery-mildew-flower-garden#:~:text=How%20to%20identify%20powdery%20mildew,to%20red%20around%20the%20infection . 11 University of Minnesota, “Powdery mildew in flowers and vining vegetables”, http://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/powdery-mildew-flowers-and-vining-vegetables 12 Oklahoma State University, “Pumpkin and Squash Diseases”, http://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/pumpkin-and-squash-diseases.html

< Back Canada Anemone, A Hardy Native Groundcover James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Looking for a low maintenance, vigorous, hardy and attractive groundcover? Consider the native Canada Anemone. If you have a difficult slope that never grows grass, a clay or sandy patch that defies seeding with bluegrass or fescue, consider the Canada anemone. Anemone canadensis is otherwise known as meadow anemone, crowfoot or round leaf anemone. It’s a tough guy, found native throughout the Upper Midwest, most commonly on river banks, flood plains or low moist meadows. It provides an excellent groundcover in medium to moist soils. Although it will self-seed, it spreads primarily by rhizomes. This it does rapidly and will form good coverage in two growing seasons with proper conditions. As it is a vigorous grower, it can muscle out other low growing plants unless managed. If you need to contain this anemone, garden edging that goes 6 to 8 inches into the ground should do the trick. Once established, its attractive bright green foliage is graced with lovely white flowers in May, June and early July. The plant’s height usually is less than one foot and it can be mowed lower. It does well in full sun to partial shade. It seems that the cooler the environment, the more sun it will tolerate. Canada anemone settles in nicely in a variety of clay, sand or loam soils. It is hardy to Zone 3 through 6 to 7 although it prefers the cooler, more northern climes. Drier soils and hotter temperatures further south than central Illinois can be a problem. The plant’s name derives from Greek mythology. The nymph Anemone, like the plant, was quite a looker. She attracted the devoted attentions of the God of the West Wind, Zephyr. Unfortunately for all concerned, Zephyr was married to Chloris or in Roman nomenclature, Flora the goddess of flowers and springtime. Needless to say, Flora was miffed at Zephyr’s philandering. She terminated the relationship by turning Anemone into the eponymous flower. Ancient Greece being the strongly patriarchal society that it was, legend is silent as to how Zephyr fared. Like Zephyr, you would be well advised to exercise circumspection in your choices. In selecting ground covers most nurseries offer a variety of aggressive Asian or European imports, commonly Vinca minor or periwinkle. Vinca like so many other non-natives can escape cultivation and invade natural areas. Although Canada anemone is also a hardy grower it strikes a balance in the wild and coexists with other native species in a balanced ecology. Another significant benefit of planting a native such as Anemone canadensis rather than an import is Anemone’s contribution to pollinators. The flowers offer both abundant nectar and nutrient-rich pollen. Vinca , in contrast provides little attraction to native pollinators. For a low-maintenance, vigorous, hardy and attractive groundcover you could do well to consider the native Canada anemone. Photo credits: US Forest Service (1, 2)

< Back Planning for a Sunny Garden for all Types of Conditions If you are looking to start growing flowering plants or vegetables in a sunny area of your garden, read Margie Blare’s articles on starting a new garden. Then, take a look at this article which provides lots of ideas for plants in various kinds of sunny gardens. There are a seemingly endless number of plants that will flourish in a sunny garden. This article helps you narrow the choices down to some super stars. Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener The twin cities area of Minnesota, now classified as USDA Hardiness Zone 5a, offers a unique opportunity for gardeners to create vibrant and thriving sunny gardens, whether you have a large space, small space, container gardens or a balcony garden. With at least 6-8 hours of full sun daily, you can cultivate a diverse array of flowers, vegetables, herbs, and small shrubs that not only add beauty but also provide ecological benefits. The shift from Zone 4b to 5a indicates milder winters, allowing for a broader range of plants to flourish in the region. To ensure your sunny garden remains healthy and vibrant, remember to provide adequate water and fertilization. Most plants require about an inch of water weekly, and using slow-release fertilizers can enhance growth without overfeeding. Mulching around plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, while row covers can protect against early frosts and pests. By selecting the right plants and following these care tips, you can create a thriving sunny garden in the Twin Cities that brings joy and beauty throughout the growing season. This article will suggest sun-loving perennials listed in different categories. You may want to look for those plants that appear in several categories as superstars. Perennials for Sunny Gardens Natives Native plants are an excellent choice for sunny Minnesota gardens, offering both beauty and ecological benefits. Here just a few of the many native plants that thrive in a sunny Minnesota garden: Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a showstopper, attracting pollinators with its bold purple petals. Wild Bergamot ( Monarda fistulosa), which produces lavender flowers beloved by bees and butterflies. Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta): for those seeking a touch of golden sunshine, offer long-lasting blooms and support local wildlife consider planting or Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is drought-tolerant and supports pollinators. Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop) : This plant offers blue, tubular flowers from mid-June to September. It is deer resistant and prefers well-drained soil. Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed) : Known for its bright orange or yellow flowers, this plant is a vital food source for monarch caterpillars. It grows well in loose soil and full sun. Wild Bergamot Grasses To add structure and year-round interest to your sunny garden, consider incorporating native grasses. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a stunning choice, with its bluish-green leaves turning a captivating reddish-brown in fall. For taller options, Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) and Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) are excellent choices, providing vertical interest and winter habitat for birds. These grasses not only thrive in full sun but also require minimal maintenance, making them perfect for busy gardeners. Little Bluestem Unique Pollinators Here are some unique plants that thrive in full sun in our area. These flowers not only add beauty to your garden but also provide ecological benefits by attracting pollinators and supporting local wildlife: Geum (ex., Red Dragon ): This perennial features low-mounding leaves with numerous small flowers that bloom from early to late summer. It is a great choice for adding vibrant color to your garden. Nepeta (ex., Purrsian Blue) : Known for its compact mounding habit and periwinkle blue flowers, this plant is deer and rabbit resistant. It blooms from May to September and attracts bees and butterflies. Liatris spicata (Blazing Star/Gay Feather) : This plant features purple, spike-like clusters that bloom in full sun conditions. It is deer resistant and thrives in rich, loamy soil. Low Maintenance Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) : one member of the Rudbeckia family, these plants are drought-resistant and deer-resistant, with bright yellow flowers that attract butterflies and birds. They require minimal care and can grow in well-drained soil. Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea) : these natives are drought-tolerant once established and attract a variety of pollinators. They bloom from mid-summer to early fall and require minimal maintenance. Sedum : This succulent comes in various forms and is highly drought-tolerant. It blooms in late summer and is excellent for low-maintenance gardens. Yarrow : With its flat clusters of flowers, yarrow attracts bees and butterflies. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) : in addition to its other attributes, Butterfly Weed is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed Compact Flowering Plants These plants are ideal for adding color and vibrancy to small full sun gardens without overwhelming the space: Sedum Sunsparkler Series : These sedums are low-mounding, growing only 6-8 inches tall and 10-12 inches wide. They offer beautiful foliage and bright flowerheads, making them perfect for small gardens. Nepeta Purrsian Blue : This compact mounding plant produces periwinkle blue flowers from May to September. Yellow Alyssum : Known as basket-of-gold, this low-growing perennial forms a mat and blooms with bright yellow flowers in the spring. It grows 6-12 inches tall with an 18-inch spread. Yarrow : While not as compact as some others, yarrow can be pruned to maintain a smaller size. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Geum Red Dragon : this colorful blooming plant is easy to grow. Deer-resistant Plants Yarrow (Achillea) : Known for its finely textured foliage with an herbal scent that repels deer, yarrow blooms in yellow, pink, white, or peach. It is hardy in zones 3-8 and prefers full sun. Ornamental Onion (Allium) : Deer avoid this plant due to its onion flavor. Varieties like 'Serendipity' offer playful purple flowers that bloom from mid to late summer. It thrives in zones 4-8 and full sun to part sun. Anise Hyssop (Agastache) : This plant's fragrant leaves and soft peach flowers make it unappealing to deer. Catmint (Nepeta) : Deer dislike this fuzzy, fragrant foliage of catmint. It blooms with bright lavender-purple flowers starting in early summer and thrives in zones 3-8 with full sun. Coneflower (Echinacea) : While not completely deer-proof, coneflowers are often left alone due to their spiny cones. They bloom most of the summer with full to part sun. Russian Sage (Perovskia) : Its clean, herbal scent makes it highly deer-resistant. It blooms with bright amethyst-blue flowers and thrives in full sun. Deer-resistant Groundcovers Creeping Phlox : This groundcover blooms with vibrant purple flowers in early spring and prefers well-drained soil in full sun. It is relatively deer-resistant due to its dense growth and less palatable foliage. Sedum : Known for its succulent leaves and stems, sedum is highly drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. It comes in various forms and colors, making it suitable for rock gardens and full sun conditions. Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pennsylvanica) : While not entirely deer-proof, this sedge is less appealing to deer due to its grass-like foliage. It thrives in full sun to part shade and is native to Minnesota. Thyme : Some varieties of thyme, like creeping thyme, can be used as a groundcover and are deer-resistant. They prefer well-drained soil and full sun. Creeping Phlox These groundcovers are not only deer-resistant but also low-maintenance, making them ideal for sunny areas. However, it's important to note that while these plants are less appealing to deer, they may still be nibbled on if other food sources are scarce. Vegetables and Herbs for Sunny Gardens Vegetable gardens in the twin cities can flourish with a variety of crops. Most vegetable and herbs need a lot of sun. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants should be started indoors and transplanted after the last frost, while lettuce, spinach, beets, carrots, and peas can be directly sown into the garden in early spring. For herbs, basil, chives, dill, and mint are popular choices that thrive in sunny conditions and require minimal care. Lavender , though typically hardy in Zone 5, can also survive in Zone 4 with proper protection, adding a fragrant and beautiful element to your garden. Compact vegetables that thrive in container gardens and smaller gardens Cherry Tomatoes : These are ideal for container gardens due to their compact size and high yield. They require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Peppers : Both bell and hot peppers grow well in containers. They are relatively compact and produce a high yield. Leaf Lettuce and Spinach : These can thrive in partial shade but also do well in full sun containers. They are easy to grow and can be harvested continuously. Radishes : Quick-growing and compact, radishes can be grown in shallow containers and require minimal space. Happy Sunny Gardening https://www.fox9.com/news/minnesotas-plant-hardiness-zones-have-changed https://www.mprnews.org/story/2023/11/21/milder-winters-changing-usda-plant-hardiness-zones-in-minnesota https://www.coppercreeklandscapes.com/new-blog/hardy-summer-perennials-minnesota https://www.leafgreengardens.com/minnesota-gardening-zones-by-usda/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-herbs https://mnhardy.umn.edu/shrubs https://sargentsgardens.com/top-10-sun-perennials/ https://www.gurneys.com/collections/vegetables-zone5 https://www.motherearthgardener.com/organic-gardening/herb-gardens-in-the-north-ze0z1810zcoo/ https://www.epicgardening.com/minnesota-perennials/ https://www.bachmans.com/information/usda-zone-map https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/17xkzir/2023_usda_plant_hardiness_map_of_minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/trees-and-shrubs-minnesota-landscapes https://bonnieplants.com/blogs/garden-ideas-inspiration/full-sun-garden-plants https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/hardy-herbs https://almanacplanting.com/collections/shrubs-and-bushes-zone-5 https://www.myhomepark.com/blog/12-minnesota-native-plants-for-your-home-landscapes https://ponicslife.com/minnesota-vegetable-planting-calendar-a-quick-and-easy-guide/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade https://tristarplants.com/collections/shrubs-for-zone-5 https://northerngardener.org/5-perennials-that-act-like-shrubs/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/planting-vegetable-garden https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/1bc3q70/what_perennial_herbs_do_people_have/ Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,4), open.lib.umn.edu (2), marylandbiodiversity.com (3)

< Back Foraging 101 Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement. Here are some suggestions on how to get started. Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Morel mushrooms, the state mushroom of Minnesota, are a prized commodity for top restaurant chefs and home cooks alike. Rarely found in a supermarket, these mushrooms often run over $150 per pound when purchased online. A more frugal solution is simply foraging for the mushrooms—the cost of morels is now only your time. Foraging is the oldest form of food procurement, the “gatherer” portion of the hunter-gatherer society. It requires a connection to the land, a knowledge of what is edible, where certain plants can be found, and when in the year they will be ready for consumption. Once necessary for human survival, foraging is now made superfluous by grocery stores and food manufacturing. Today foraging is a choice, and its popularity is growing each year. For gardeners, foraging is an extension of the practice in the garden. Often what is foraged cannot be cultivated in a home garden—particularly for wild mushrooms, but also for wild onions or other plants. Learning the forageable plants near home, as well as their life cycles, opens up all sorts of possibilities for new plants to eat. Frequently Asked Questions Q: What can I forage in Minnesota? A: Everything from mushrooms and wild fruit to nuts, evergreens, leafy greens, and even cattails. Q: Is foraging just for food? A: No. You can also forage for natural specimens or even art supplies, as many plants and mushrooms such as lobster mushrooms and sumac are sources of dye. Q: Is it legal to forage in Minnesota? A: Sometimes! Double check your laws before taking anything from publicly owned land, and know if you are on national, state, or regional land. It is LEGAL to forage small quantities in MN State Parks as long as it is for home use, not to be sold for a profit. It is ILLEGAL to forage in any Dakota County Regional Park. As for national land like national parks and national forests? The laws are different for each one. Look up rules specific to the national forest or park you want to forage in. Q: Once I have determined that I may legally forage, what’s the best practice for sustainability? A: Take less than 20% of what you find in the wild for most foraged items, and take less than 10% of what you find if it is particularly slow growing, like mosses or lichens. Q: Where can I learn more about foraging? A: A few excellent resources include Euall Gibbons’ 1962 book Stalking the Wild Asparagus , MN chef Alan Bergo’s website ForagerChef.com , and Bergo’s newest book The Forager Chef’s Book of Flora (2021). For more on foraging laws, see Baylen J. Linnekin’s article “Food Law Gone Wild: The Law of Foraging” (2018). https://ir.lawnet.fordham.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2740&context=ulj Photo credit: Kevin Miyazaki/Meredith (Creative Commons)(1)

< Back China Bayles Series By Susan Wittig Albert In the mood for a little light reading while exploring the world of herbs? Master Gardener and herb expert Shari Mayer reviews the “China Bayles” mystery series by Susan Wittig Albert. Each of the multiple volume mystery series centers around a particular herb. Read this article to learn more about this clever and informative mystery series. Reviewed By Shari Mayer, Master Gardener In the mood for a little light reading with an educational bent? Check out the China Bayles series by Susan Wittig Albert. This series can be likened to ‘The Cat Who…’ mystery novels, by Lilian Jackson Braun. Even if you’re not a mystery buff, these books are delightful and you learn a lot about herbs along the way. It’s a lovely read for a road trip, up at the cabin, or just sitting on your porch after a long day gardening. This series is comprised of 28 mysteries to date, each centering around a particular herb. It’s a great way to explore the world of herbs. I would recommend reading in order, although it’s not required. Albert has been publishing this series since 1992, garnering several awards along the way, including the Agatha award. She has a Ph.D. in English from Berkeley, and has also published under pen names, including Carolyn Keene and Robin Paige. In this series China Bayles is a high-powered attorney, who left that world behind to open an herb shop in a small Texas town. Each book is centered around a particular herb, and it’s amazing how much you learn about that herb as the plot thickens. I’ve been recommending this series for years now, and it doesn’t matter your age or inclination, everyone seems to love them. If you haven’t tried them, now’s the time. I used to get them from the library, but I hear Kindle, as well as Amazon Prime, both have options. Happy reading!

< Back Yes, You Can Grow Shade-Loving Plants Marjory Blare, MD, Master Gardener Many people think that shade just creates problems for the garden. This article explains how wrong that can be. Read on to learn more about which trees, shrubs and perennials can prosper in your shady garden. You may consider your garden to be “shady,” but is it in full shade or part shade? Full shade is defined as an area that receives less than 4 hours of direct sun per day. Part shade is defined as a garden that receives 4 to 6 hours per day. How much sun (take into account reflected or filtered sun) does your garden get? The easiest way to measure sunlight exposure is to simply observe your planting area every 30 minutes or so throughout the daylight hours over a week or two. Use those observations to determine the average amount of time the area receives sunlight, dappled sunlight, or shade. When you have determined the average amount of sunlight an area receives, you can choose plants that match the conditions of the site. Research the plants before buying and planting. You should also take into account the condition of your soil. Is it clay, sandy or loamy, is it dry or wet, acidic or alkaline? (Click here to find out about soil tests: https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ) Consider the following plants for your shady garden. SMALL TREES Saucer Magnolias Saucer Magnolias (30’) are shrub-like trees. They grow at a moderate pace producing goblet-shaped flowers in shades of white, pink, and purple. The buds are attractive to deer and rabbits. They grow well in many soil types, especially organic-rich soils that stay moist. They are useful in tight spaces and can be near a foundation without causing problems. Eastern Redbud (zones 4-9) Eastern Redbuds (20’-30’ x 25’-35’) produce violet-pink blossoms on bare branches in early to mid-spring before heart-shaped foliage emerges. Eastern Redbuds grow at a medium rate, and tolerate many soil types, from clay to sand, from alkaline to acidic. Water regularly when young; once established, they’re drought-resistant. SHRUBS Azalea The University of Minnesota’s Northerns Lights series has a wide range of colors. https://mnhardy.umn.edu/azaleas . If you look at other growers, be sure to purchase plants grown in Minnesota. Acidic soil (pH 4.5-6.0) is very important. Try to site azaleas at the edges of shade. Aronia, Chokeberry Aronia does best in part shade. In the spring they are covered in white blossoms, in the fall they provide bright color. Chokeberry Aronia Snowberry Snowberry produces tiny pink flowers and white berries the size of peas. Is is very hardy with a wide tolerance of soil types, and moisture conditions. The drupes attract many birds. Weigela Weigelas, like azaleas, bloom better with more sun rather than less, but are not so picky about pH. The blossoms are white, pink, mauve and red. The leaves can range from light green to dark and many have stunning bronze foliage. Weigela PERENNIALS If you would like more ideas, please download this table. It should dispel any question in your mind that there are a wide variety of perennials that will grow well in your shady garden. Shade Plant Table .pdf Download PDF • 131KB Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1), www.flickr.com – All Creative Commons (2), www.thisgrandmothersgarden.com – All Creative Commons (3), www.publicdomainpictures.net – All Creative Commons (4)

< Back Braiding Sweetgrass – Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge, and Teachings of Plants Gail Maifeld Braiding Sweetgrass, by Robin Wall Kimmerer, is a union of personal biography, science and biology. Kimmerer is an active member of the Patawatomi citizen community. She shares indigenous knowledge and encourages individuals to seek a healthy relationship with their surroundings. Braiding Sweetgrass , by Robin Wall Kimmerer, is a union of personal biography, science and biology. Kimmerer is an active member of the Citizen Patawatomi Nation. Braiding Sweetgrass is a book of essays on Native folkways with plants and their roles in human life. It was originally published in 2013 and was reissued in 2020 with new illustrations. In her book, Kimmerer shares indigenous knowledge and encourages individuals to seek a healthy relationship with their natural environment. The reader is introduced to Skywoman, who tells the story of sweet grass which, in Anishinaabe belief, was the first plant to grow on earth. Sweetgrass holds a “sacred role” and represents an important component of “global ecosystems,” which gives rise to the possibility of a positive relationship between humans and the natural environment. Man should listen to Skywoman rather than the monster Windigo that speaks to us to consume. Man should learn from the indigenous peoples who learned from watching plants, trees and water interact - how plants support each other, how the roots of the cottonwood tree support the shoreline and how cattails purify the water. Kimmerer combines heritage with the knowledge of native peoples and science. How would you be feeling if you couldn’t speak your native language? Eat familiar native foods? Wear native clothing? As a member of the Patawatomi Nation, Kimmerer shares the beauty and necessity of native language and tradition. Native storytelling is a tradition that illustrates the delicate layering of science and culture. Storytelling focuses on a balance between environmental passions and science. If you are yearning for a book of optimism about humans’ relationship with the environment in a world on fire, Braiding Sweetgrass is for you. Or, as a book of gratitude toward nature and a culture of reciprocity toward nature, Braiding Sweetgrass will soothe your soul. Photo Credit: Braiding Sweetgrass Book Cover (1)

< Back American Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens): An American Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener American Bittersweet is a hardy native vine traditionally found on country roads and farms. It puts on a beautiful display of orange-hulled fruit in autumn. It has been a favorite material for welcoming door wreaths. Read this article about this beautiful and useful native Minnesota plant. A few years back, each fall we used to scan the shoulders of country roads for native bittersweet. It was an old custom of local farm folk to make wreathes of bittersweet to hang over their doors as a welcome. Apparently, this old folkway has caught on and wild bittersweet has become a rarity, at least around the Cities. Fortunately, this hardy native vine can still be purchased at local nurseries and you can “grow you own” fall decorations. Bittersweet is found in mesic woods, woodland edges and hedgerows throughout the Upper Midwest. Its great attraction is its display of orange-hulled, vermillion fruit which form in the late summer, creating a brilliant display in autumn after leaf-drop. Bittersweet is fairly easy to grow in well-drained soil. It isn’t too fussy about the clay soils we so often encounter here. Full sun to part shade is a must for vigorous growth. Although the vine can be slow growing for the first season or two it will eventually take off and be quite drought resistant. This is a plus given the dry summers we have recently been experiencing. You will want to place it on a fence or a trellis as it is a vigorous woody vine. Another approach is to plant it among established small trees in a woodland edge. This sets it up for a show in the late fall when the trees are bare. One caveat : Celastrus scandens is dioecious, meaning vines are either male or female. So, it takes “two to tango” to generate that wonderful orange-red fruit. Hopefully your nursery can help you to obtain the correct gender of vines. If you are growing bittersweet from seed or are purchasing seedlings, plant several of them in proximity to assure a male and female vine for fruiting. One other caveat : American bittersweet should not be confused with Oriental Roundleaf bittersweet ( Celastrus orbiculatus ). The latter is native to China but has proven to be highly invasive here in North America. In theory it should no longer be sold in commercial nurseries, but you never know. It is pretty easy to differentiate from American bittersweet in that the native plant’s fruit capsules are orange. Oriental bittersweet’s fruit capsules are yellow. American bittersweet’s fruits are on the terminal stem ends. Orientals are along the stems at the leaf axis. If you come across oriental bittersweet on your property, eliminate it! The MN Department of Agriculture has good information on the subject: ( https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants/pestmanagement/weedcontrol/noxiouslist/orientalbittersweet/bittersweetdiffs ). Photo credits: MN Department of Agriculture (all)

< Back Investigating Insects in the Garden Mary Gadek, Master Gardener Calling all Family Insect Investigators! Along with plants and people enjoying the summer, many insects are traveling around in our yards and parks, too. Gather your family and friends in July to investigate insects in the Minnesota outdoors. Learn how to identify insects from other types of bugs, view some common Minnesota insects and how to do your own investigations of these creatures. Insects are bugs but not all bugs are insects There are many types of bugs in the world, like insects or spiders. Scientists that study bugs, called entomologists , group bugs into different categories. One category is insects . When you are looking around to find insects, use this insect checklist to determine if it is an insect or not: Three basic regions of the insect body- A. Head - (front of body) includes an antenna, eyes and mouth parts; B. Thorax - (middle of body) has three pairs of walking legs; C. Abdomen - (back of body) contains a heart, reproductive organs and digestive system. 2. Legs - depending on the insect, the legs are shaped to help carry out their day to day activities, including swimming or holding prey. 3. A pair of compound eyes - their eyes can see multiple images that appear like many dots and can judge distance and movement with ease. The special eyes allow the insects to catch their prey to eat. 4. Antennae - The body segment located on the head helps the insects smell and taste, and, sometimes, determine air currents. Some insects have wings, while some do not. For more details, see: https://www.amentsoc.org/insects/what-bug-is-this/insects.html Insects found in Minnesota Our Minnesota yards and parks contain many different insects. Many are pollinators , which help fertilize our plants so more plants can grow. Pollinators are important because we rely on the earth’s plants to give humans and earth’s creatures food to live. Here are some insects you can find in Minnesota: Bumble bees These very hairy creatures are usually 3/8 - 3/4 inch long with black and yellow or orange striped bodies. Bumble bees pollinate our plants. Nests can be found in the ground or little spaces of a garden, like in a retaining wall. 2. Honey bees are about ½” long, with a golden brown color, a fuzzy body and wings. They are pollinators , which help fertilize our plants so they can grow. 3. Ladybugs More than 50 species of native lady bugs reside in Minnesota. They have many names, but are all the same insect: ladybugs, lady beetles or ladybird beetles. When full grown, most ladybugs have domed, hard, round to oval bodies, usually with a red color with black spots, but some with black, yellow, pink, and orange shells. Gardens benefit from ladybugs because they are pollinators as well as eaters of some insects that harm plants. 4. Butterflies Minnesota hosts many types of butterflies for their short life of about 4-6 weeks during mid-Summer (See list of Minnesota butterflies at: https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/list-of-butterflies-in-minnesota/ ). The orange and black monarchs hold the title of “Minnesota State Butterfly”. As these beautiful insects fly from plant to plant, they pollinate our plants, too. 5. Ants A common ant in Minnesota’s outdoors is a field ant . In July through September, look for the black, brown or red creature measuring 1/8 to 1/4 inch long in exposed dirt areas, making dirt mounds up to 10 inches across. They can also nest under objects, such as wood, stones, and patio blocks. The ants benefit our gardens because they eat live and dead insects. Investigate Want to be an Insect Investigator this summer?! Using the information in this article, head outside to your yard or local park to do one or all of these fun, family activities : Scavenger Hunt: Look high and low in your yard or local park to see if you can find the following common insects described in this article: bumble bees, honey bees, ladybugs, butterflies and ants. Extra Challenge Scavenger Hunt- Gather family and friends along with some paper, pencils and a timer. Set the timer for 10 minutes (or whatever time limit you wish). See who can find and write down the most of the listed insects (can find repeats) before your timer goes off. The winner can be declared the “Insect Champion of the Day.” Try again later in the season to see if everyone finds more, less or about the same amount of insects compared to the first challenge. Insect Hotel- You can make a “hotel” for insects to live in and for you to watch them live in your garden. Using a clear, clean container, with at least one opening, such as a recycled plastic bottle, carefully remove the top with the help of a grown up. Gather outside leaves, flowers, sticks and other natural items and put them inside the container. Now you have an “insect hotel”! Place the filled container in a location in your yard where you can observe any insects that come to live in your “insect hotel”. Use your investigative skills to determine if you found an insect or if it is a little creature from another bug category. Keep a journal or take pictures of all the insects you see. To continue more investigation, find out more through these programs in Minnesota: READ I Love Bugs! Philemon Sturges A book for younger learners with simple, yet useful descriptions of common bugs. Available at: Dakota County Library, ISBN: 9780060561680, 978006056169, or on Amazon Bugs!Bugs!Bugs! Bob Barber Colorful book for younger children describing common bugs in our yards and containing a useful chart to assist with identification. Available at: Dakota County Library, Digital Format or Amazon References : https://www.amentsoc.org/insects/what-bug-is-this/insects.html https://extension.umn.edu/wildlife/wild-pollinators https://extension.umn.edu/beneficial-insects/lady-beetles https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-butterfly-monarch/ https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/list-of-butterflies-in-minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/insects-infest-homes/ants#odorous-house-ant-42365 https://extension.umn.edu/projects-and-more/4-h-entomology-project Photo Credit: Mark Gadek (1,2,4,5) & University of Minnesota Extension (3,6) & Philemon Sturges (7,8)

< Back For Healthy Plants, Understand Your Soil First As you start to prepare your garden for spring planting, attending to the quality of your soil is one of the first things on the list. Testing and possibly amending your soil may not be as fun as planting, but these steps are crucial to the health of your plants. This article explains how to understand your soil and how to make it a beneficial host for your vegetables, shrubs, trees or flowers Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener It all starts in the ground! Soil – or ‘dirt’ – is a critical component of gardening, along with water and sunlight. Soil is often the cause of plant problems and for this reason, it is important to understand what kind of soil you have. While this could become quite technical, there are some basic concepts that will help you understand what kind of soil you have and what actions you could take to improve it. As Dr. Anne Sawyer, from the University of Minnesota Department of Soil, Water, and Climate says, “healthy soils, healthy plants”. Dr. Sawyer explains that the soil is alive, full of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and other organisms that support plant growth. In an ideal planting situation, the soil would be loamy. This means water moves through the dirt, it has a good mix of nutrients, and provide plants with the ability to grow their roots out with ease. Loamy soil looks black and crumbly and if you squeeze it gently, forms a ball or log. Clay soil is the least ideal type of medium for growing plants. If you squeeze it, it will form a solid ball. Clay soil does not allow water to filter through the soil particles, often creating puddles or little ponds. It is very compact. Plants struggle to grow their roots and often look stunted and unhealthy. Fruit and vegetables are unlikely to produce a good harvest. Sandy soil, like loamy soil, filters water but it filters water quite quickly, making it difficult to maintain a good moist soil. If you try to squeeze sandy soil, you will not be able to form any kind of structure. Plants grown in sandy soil require frequent watering and may sometimes look a little wilted. To further test your soil, you can do an infiltration test , which can be done with a soup can! This is a simple way to see how well water is draining and how long it takes your soil to absorb water. When possible, it is best to perform this test when the soil is dry so you can get a more accurate test. This infiltration test site provides step by step instructions. The good news is that you can amend most soils. That means you can improve your soil by adding organic matter. This can help to improve the soil’s water filtration (permeability) and aeration (air flow, oxygenation), which helps it to become similar to that ideal loamy soil. Soil amendments can also bring in nutrients that plants need to grow and thrive. For sandy soil , you would introduce materials that will give it more structure and help hold in the water or slow its movement. The amendments may include compost, peat moss, or decomposed/composted manure (never use ‘fresh’ manure – it can burn plants). For clay soil , you want to try to break up the solid mass. You would also thoroughly mix in compost and peat moss or other organic materials. However, to be frank, clay soil can be daunting to amend. Many people find they are not able to improve the soil sufficiently to create a better growing environment. Often the best solution for those with clay soil is installing raised beds and filling them with good garden soil. This article is not going to delve into several other important factors present in soils but you should know that plant problems may also be caused by several other soil-related factors. For example, knowing the ph of your soil (is it acidic or basic) can significantly impact plants. For this reason, it is usually recommended that you test your soil. Other articles in the Garden Buzz have talked about soil testing. You also can go right to the University of Minnesota website to learn more about soil testing and get instructions on how to take a soil sample and where to send it for testing. As you start to prepare your garden for spring planting, attending to the quality of your soil is one of the first things on the list. Not only will your plants be happier, so will you! Resources: Healthy Soil, Healthy Plants Managing soil and nutrients in yards and gardens Soil Testing What’s My Soil Type? Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), www.flickr.com (3), Pngimg.com (4)

< Back Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Columbine or Columbina was an enduring character of Italian commedia del’arte, coquettish, heavily made up, outspoken with almost always something to say. Her botanical namesake, the columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is also an outspoken herald of spring, brightly made up, making a statement in the garden or the wild. The eastern red columbine is native to the entire Midwest. You will find this beauty in rock outcrops, rocky or sandy woodlands as well as savannas. To successfully grow columbine in the garden it is very helpful to provide extra drainage. Usually a rock, gravel or sand underlayment will do the trick although for years my columbines have spread and reseeded in my raised beds with no other preparations. They also look well in rock gardens or other stone or concrete works. Columbines can be a good choice for container gardens as well. It is important to allow for reseeding as individual columbines seldom live more than three years. They do best in full sun although they tolerate light to moderate shade well. Plant height varies from one to four feet, the taller plants often putting on a magnificent display of very showy ruby red flowers. Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis). A somewhat darker bloom Pollination of Columbine is primarily carried out by the ruby-throated hummingbird although an occasional swallowtail butterfly may pitch in. Aquilegia canadensis flowers in the late spring over several weeks. It then produces a fruiting capsule by midsummer which disperses small black seeds before it disintegrates. The compound leaves of the basal portion of the fruiting body remain into the fall, acting as a host for leaf mining moth larvae. You can see the results of the larvae’s feeding as scrolling markings appear on the leaves. As you might anticipate, any plant as showy as the columbine would fall into the hands of the breeder to produce even showier cultivars. A number of very attractive varieties are on the market. Two of my favorites are “Swan Mix” and “Origami Mix”. These are by no means native to anywhere and their value to pollinators is suspect. But as long as you make sure to plant plenty of the native species, I think you can admire the beauty of the cultivars with a clean conscience! Columbine “Swan Mix”, an engaging cultivar Columbine “Origami Mix”, another showy cultivar Photo Credit: Jim Lakin (1,2,3,4)

< Back You Fall Garden Clean Up Check List Julie Harris, Master Gardener The garden growing season may be over but before you put your feet up and sip your hot cider, there are a few things you should do to clean up and prepare your garden for winter. Fall garden clean up provides multiple benefits for both you and your garden. Here are twelve tasks you should consider to tuck your garden in for the winter. The garden growing season may be over but before you put your feet up and sip your hot cider, there are a few things you should do to clean up and prepare your garden for winter. Fall garden clean up provides multiple benefits for both you and your garden. It can reduce the spread of weeds and disease, reduce insect pests, prevent rodent infestation and, finally – ease your workload in the spring. Here are twelve tasks you should consider to tuck your garden in for the winter. 1. Plant spring bulbs. Yes, you are not thinking about planting this time of year but make an exception for spring bulbs. Just think ahead to April and May when bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocus and allium provide the color that you have missed over the winter. Here are previous Garden Buzz articles about planting daffodils and protecting bulbs . 2. Remove and store tender bulbs that you want to replant in the spring, such as: anemone, tuberous begonia, caladium, calla lilies, canna, dahlias and gladiola. See this UMN article for more information about how to do so correctly. 3. Clean your garden but try to do so on sunny dry days in the late morning or afternoon. Pulling plants when the garden is wet can spread disease in the garden. In addition, walking on wet soil can damage the soil structure. 4. Cut back perennials but wait until the plant is no longer green. You may want to leave some plants up through the winter . In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. 5. Bag and throw away infested plants. Put healthy plants on your compost pile. Fall is a good time to remove vines from fences and other supports when the stems are firmer. 6. Pull out and clean garden labels, stakes, cages and trellises. Pull up black plastic from the garden as it can harbor insects. If you have garden art, clean and put it away unless you want it to provide some winter interest. 7. Rake your garden beds to remove plant debris. You may spread shredded tree leaves evenly on your garden bed, tilling them in to a shallow depth. 8. Rake the leaves on your lawn then mow lawn one last time. Mow with your blade at 2 inches to reduce the chance of snow mold. Then clean and service your lawn mower so it will be ready to go in the spring. 9. Prepare any houseplants that you left outside all summer before bringing them inside. Examine plants for insects; clean out plant debris that may be on the soil surface; clean the saucer and pot. Consider whether the plant needs to be transplanted into a larger pot after spending the summer growing in the sun. 10. Protect your plants and trees. Wrap sensitive evergreens to reduce potential wind damage. Put tree guards or cloth cages around young trees and shrubs to prevent sunscald damage and animal damage. Read these articles by Dakota County Master Gardeners for more information about protecting trees and plants from winter damage. https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/treesshrubs/taking-care-of-and-protecting-trees-before-winter ; https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/treesshrubs/preparing-your-trees-and-evergreens-for-winter 11. Now is a good time have your soil tested. Send your sample to the UMN Soils Lab. The report will provide recommendations for improving your soil health. Go to https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ for instructions. 12. Clean and sharpen your tools and containers before storing them away for the winter. Wash pots and tools with a diluted bleach or 70% rubbing alcohol solution. Cleaning will help prevent the spread of diseases and unwanted weed seeds and insect eggs. It will also help to prolong the life of your tools. And, don’t forget to take a moment to enjoy the spectacular color display that your garden is providing this time of year! References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/final-fall-do-list https://extension.umn.edu/news/putting-your-garden-bed https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/fall-clean-time-remove-annual-vines Photo credits: www.ag.ndsu.edu (All Creative Commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3, 4), Karna Berg (5)