< Back A Personal Nod to the First Harvest Vegetable, the Honorable Radish The radish is a star of the harvest as it has a quick three-week turn around. It is also great in a salad and even a salsa. But Master Gardener intern Liz Townley, was intrigued with her mother’s practice of eating a radish on buttered white bread – the radish sandwich. She dug deep to find the origins of this practice, before finally trying the radish sandwich herself. Read this entertaining article on the joys of the humble radish sandwich. Liz Townley, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The mighty radish is the queen of the harvest as it has a quick three-week turnaround from seed to table! But does it have other star qualities? As a child, I remember watching my mother buttering her bread, slicing some ‘fresh from the garden’ radishes, sprinkling some salt on them and eating them on an open face sandwich! We were aghast! How could she eat a sandwich that didn’t include meat? She offered to make us one and sadly, we turned her down. Now, I have learned to enjoy this early harvest vegetable in homemade salads and yes, even radish salsa (it was actually too hot!). Lately, I felt drawn to give the radish sandwich a try myself. But I was also interested in how the sandwich itself came about. Let’s start with the radish itself. There are 36 to 40 commonly known radishes. The most familiar are the garden radishes ( Raphanus sativus var. radicula ). Garden radishes are known to have a spicy flavor and crisp, juicy texture. And in just 3 to 5 weeks after planting, we can pull out our first radish harvest of the season. But how and why did someone think it was a good idea to plop radishes on a sandwich? Radish sandwich in history In my research, I learned that it is likely that the sandwich was started in Europe and Asia as a simple way to consume an abundance of radishes when the harvest was ready. While there’s no single documented “invention” date for the radish sandwich, its simplicity suggests it evolved from basic bread-and-vegetable traditions . The sandwich’s minimal ingredients—bread, butter, radishes, salt—align with rustic, utilitarian eating styles common in many cultures. In the United States, radishes were popular in the 19th century, with seed companies urging daily consumption. A notable historical example is the Parmesan Radish Sandwich described in The Up-To-Date Sandwich Book (1909), which used only radishes and parmesan cheese. This shows that by the early 20th century, radishes were being used as a sandwich filling in more elaborate ways. Cultural and modern context The sandwich’s popularity today is partly due to its simplicity and adaptability. It’s found in global variations, from German-style butter-and-radish rolls to Asian-inspired bánh mì with pickled radish. Its origins are thus a blend of: Ancient culinary traditions (Egyptian, Greek, Roman) European bread-and-vegetable culture American home-style sandwich evolution in the 19th–20th centuries In short, the radish sandwich’s origins are tied to the long history of radishes themselves and to the global spread of simple, bread-based sandwiches, with its modern form emerging from both culinary heritage and everyday home cooking. Okay, so now it’s my turn to get in on this tradition. I saw many variations of the sandwich – different breads, radish sliced thin or thick, radish pickled, topped with mint, parsley and even peas! radish, edamame, ricotta and greens sandwich; Credit: www.pechluck.com But I decided to try it the traditional way, just like Mom used to make. Normally, I am not a white bread eater, so I selected a well-known brand to up my chances of success. I wouldn’t be able to try the sandwich on my mother’s Holsum Bread (remember their yellow wrappers that ended up in your snow boots?), but I am up the challenge! First, I got the butter to room temperature as to not rip the bread. Then, I cut off the ends of the radish and used a potato/vegetable peeler to cut up my radish. I layered it on the bread, lightly salted it and made my husband try it first! He complied, and thought it was okay, but a little strange to have a vegetable sandwich. radish sandwich with white bread; Credit: www.hellolittlehome.com Then, I tried it. It was great! The smooth butter taste paired nicely with the spicy, crunchy flavor of the radish on the soft white bread and the slight salty taste at the end. Try it for yourself as a snack or as a part of your fancy tea plate. This simple sandwich may become your new spring favorite, too! I only wished I hadn’t waited so long to try my mother’s radish sandwich. Source: University of Minnesota Extension website, Academic library , YouTube , Jacques Pepin Radish Sandwich, Sandwiches of History and Sandwich Tribunal . Photos: Liz Townley

< Back Sunflowers - Bright, Beautiful and Fun to Grow Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to see the entire life cycle of a plant. This article explains how to engage in this fun and easy learning opportunity. Julie Henrichs Summer is upon us and what is better to grow with your child than flowers that are big, bright and beautiful. Sunflowers come in many varieties and heights and “Yes” they can be planted in containers too. Planting sunflower seeds with children is an incredible way to experience the entire life cycle of a plant. Sunflowers are ideal for planting with children because sunflower seeds are large in size for easy handling, tolerates dry or drought conditions and also is fairly low maintenance. Sunflowers are also “giving” plants - bees and bugs benefit from the flowers while birds eat the seeds produced. Let’s Get Planting Sunflower seeds come in all varieties, size and many colors ranging from yellow, orange, bronze, red, burgundy and even white with a variation of mixed petals. Allow your children to choose the type of sunflower to grow and then ask why they chose the one they did? Was it for the height, the extra fuzzy looking flower or simply the color? If you have height restrictions, refer to seed package for height and spacing guidelines. We think of sunflower seeds always being planted in the ground, but they can also be planted in containers. Choosing the best finished container is important and make sure to base the size of container by the plant height. Items Needed: Appropriately sized planting container (base size on final height of plant) with good drainage Sunflower Seeds Potting Soil Water in watering can or spray bottle Plant labels (optional) Gardening Gloves (optional) Let’s get started: Fill containers with potting soil, leaving dirt an inch away from the rim of the container. Once the container is filled, tap down lightly and add any potting soil as needed. Children can poke a small hole with their finger into the soil. Open the seed packet and have your child plant the seeds about 1-2 inches into the soil in the hole. Seeds can be spaced approximately 6-12 inches apart depending on the sunflower seed type. (refer to the back of the package for planting depth and spacing) Cover seeds and tamp down soil Water gently with a watering can being careful not to disrupt the newly planted seeds or spritz the soil with water making sure the soil is wet Set the newly planted containers in full sun. Continue to check the new plantings for watering needs at least once or twice a day. Once the seedlings have emerged, continue to check to make sure the soil remains moist, but not saturated. Seeds start to grow 1-1 ½ weeks after planting. As your sunflower begins to grow it may require staking to keep the plant upright, especially in strong winds. Sunflowers are unique in that they begin as a seed and also end as a seed. The sunflower plant produces a sunflower bloom/head. When the sunflower head starts to turn brown, the sunflowers can be cut off and either they can be left for birds and other insects or they can be dried and then used later. Sunflowers provide so many benefits – a fun and educational gardening experience, a beautiful display and food for birds and insects. Let’s get planting! Photo Credit: flickr.com (1,2), backgardener.com (3)

< Back SEED SAVING 101 Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Do you have some beautiful plants or vegetables in your garden that you would like to replicate next season? You can make that happen by saving the seeds from that plant and growing them yourself. If you haven’t given seed saving a try, now is the perfect time to start. As the season starts winding down, it’s a great time to look around your garden, assess what you’ve planted, and decide if you would like to grow it from seed next year. Read this article for a few tips on making your seed harvesting a success. Do you have some beautiful plants in your garden that you would like to replicate next season? You can make that happen by saving the seeds from that plant and growing them yourself. If you haven’t given seed saving a try, now is the perfect time to start. As the season starts winding down, it’s a great time to look around your garden, assess what you’ve planted, and decide if you would like to grow it from seed next year. Here are a few tips on making your seed harvesting a success: - Know your plant. Seed saving is not the same across the board. The big takeaway here is heirloom vs. hybrid (F1). Heirloom seed will save true, hybrid seed will not. - Choose the ‘perfect’ specimen. There is variation in your plant, and selecting by size, shape, etc., will make a difference. Sacrifice that perfect tomato, largest flower, or tallest dill—whatever you want to reproduce. - Collect seed when it is ripe. The seed does need to ripen before it becomes viable. This happens in different ways, but generally speaking, you need to let the plant go beyond the growing stage and head into decline. Collect and obtain the seed once it is ripe. - I like to follow the plant’s lead. If the seed dries on the plant (typically a pod or seedhead), wait until it is dry and ready to fall off the plant, or the pods are dry and cracking open. Remove from the plant (threshing), and then remove the seeds from the pod or seedhead (winnowing). - If enclosed in wet fleshy fruit, (like tomatoes, cucumbers, melons), wait until the fruit is almost rotting or well past prime. The seeds have a gooey substance that needs to be removed in order to improve their germination rate. An easy way to remove the ‘goo’ is to soak them in a small jar of water until it ferments (several days) and then strain and dry them. The goo will have separated during this time, and the fermentation process actually helps make the seeds disease free. - Dry your seed thoroughly. Store in paper envelopes—they need to breathe. - Don’t forget to label everything, including the date harvested. - Crossbreeding—if you want your seed to be true to the plant, this needs to be avoided. Plant one variety, or keep the plants far enough away from other plants that can cross-pollinate. This does require knowledge of how the plant pollinates, whether wind, insect or self. Perhaps creating a new variety is of interest—in which case you would want to plant the two parents close enough to create cross-pollination. Do a little background on your plants to achieve your desired outcome. If you are interested in learning more, Seed Savers ( www.seedsavers.org ) is a great place to get started. They have a lot of articles, seed saving charts, and more. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2), www.Flickr.com (3)

Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets during the spring, summer, and fall in Apple Valley, Burnsville, Eagan, and Lakeville. During the winter, you can find them at winter markets in Eagan and Apple Valley. A complete listing of dates, locations and times can be found on our Event Calendar. Gardening Problem or Questions? Garden Information Ask a MG Ask a Master Gardener Extension Yard & Garden Extension Yard & Garden Garden Information 1/3 Upcoming Events View All Events Get the Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Monthly gardening tasks Master Gardener events Plant diseases, insects or other garden problems Tips to enhance your garden and the environment; Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books and much more! Subscribe Now Check out our YouTube channel! Dakota County Master Gardener YouTube

< Back White Wild Indigo (Baptisia alba): A Victim of Popularity? Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener The wild indigo is a beautiful native plant that has been hybridized into an array of colors. In this article, Jim Lakin explains why you should consider bypassing the new colors and sticking with the native white wild indigo. The native plant is not only beautiful but offers benefits to the soil and to pollinators. Let’s read more about the white wild indigo. In a way, native plants are like football players. If the footballer is good in high school, he goes to college. He’s drafted into the NFL, trained, coached and turned into a hulking freight train with little resemblance to that cute high schooler. The wild indigos have suffered a similar fate. There are three common species of wild indigo in the Midwest. They are beautiful flowers. Consequently, breeders have hybridized them into a menagerie of colors from an odd dark brown to a range of yellows and blues. How much these hybrids support the pollinators that have depended on the native species for thousands of years remains to be seen. The native wild indigos are legumes, like the milkvetch we talked about last month, and thus fix nitrogen, enriching the soil. They have deep, extensive root systems which are very difficult to transplant but greatly enrich the prairie soils to which they are native. So, in planting native indigos instead of “store bought” fancy hybrids, you are doing the soil a great favor. The wild indigos emerge in the spring, looking like early asparagus shoots. In spite of what some eager sellers might tell you these shoots are not “deer resistant” but are indeed tempting to our ungulate friends. Once the mature foliage appears, the deer tend to shy away. But as one wise conservationist told me, “if a deer gets hungry, he’ll eat darn near anything.” As I said last month, an 80 lb. Labradane does wonders for deer control! White wild indigo in bloom; Photo credit: plants.ces.ncsu.edu This brings us to one of the three most prolific species, White wild indigo ( Baptisia alba ). Regular readers may remember we talked about Blue wild indigo in December of 2024. White wild indigo is native to all the Midwestern prairies. It is an elegant stately plant which projects a graceful spire of white flowers skyward. Its stalks are usually from two to three feet tall although some varieties can reach four to six feet. It will do well in most any well-drained soil with full sun. It easily grows from seed. White wild indigo boasts a blue-green foliage which contrasts nicely with the early summer flowering of milky white blooms on tall stalks. As the fall comes, pea pod fruits are initially green, turning to black as winter comes. At some point during the winter the pod splits and the seeds are disgorged. winter seedpods; Photo credit: G D Bebeau, The Friends of the Wildflower Garden Although usually quite low maintenance, B. alba is plagued by the Wild Indigo Weevil, or Baptisia Seed Pod Weevil, which is a type of beetle with an elongated snout that inserts its larval eggs into the pre-dispersed B. alba seeds. Usually, the plant will shed infected pods, promoting survival. If left to its own devices B. alba will usually soldier on. Thus, White wild indigo is a lovely addition to your landscape, providing summer color and elegance along with winter interest. The addition of B. alba to your plantings will enhance the beauty of your garden, the richness of your soil and the functionality of your ecosystem.

< Back Anemone Blandas (aka Grecian Windflowers) Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener October is a great month plant your bulbs for a spring bloom. We are all familiar with tulips, daffodils and hyacinths so how about trying something a bit less common? In this article, we learn about Anemone Blanda aka Grecian Windflowers. This petite bulb (or corm) comes in blooms in several colors and disappear when their bloom time is over. This article may convince you to try Anemone Blanda this year. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if there was a spring bulb in multiple colors that was easy to grow, naturalized beautifully and had foliage and flowers that disappeared after blooming, requiring no clean-up? There is such a bulb (although technically a corm). It is called Anemone Blanda or Grecian Windflower . Anemone Blandas come in white, pink and light and dark blue. They naturalize beautifully and disappear without a trace when their blooming time is over. blue anemone blanda; Photo credit: Missouri Botanical Garden With all these wonderful qualities one would expect to see more of them then one does. I believe the reasons behind their lack of use are incomplete growing instructions on their packets and accessibility issues. However, these barriers are easily overcome. The charmingly petite, daisy-like blooms of anemone blanda arrive in early to mid-spring. It is a low grower - 4 to 8 inches - and makes a fine flowering ground cover that adds color to the landscape when it needs it most. Perfect for planting in rock gardens, it is also perfect for growing under deciduous trees and shrubs because it blooms before the trees and shrubs leaf out. Hardy in zones 4 - 9, anemone blanda grows best in locations with well-drained soil and full to half day sun. Sold completely dry and looking like shriveled up kernels, these corms need to be soaked before planting. Often missing from the corm packet, this instruction has led to gardeners planting the corns dry, resulting in no growth. Instead, soak the corms in tepid water for 3 - 4 hours or overnight, if necessary, until they plump up and nearly double their size. Plant in odd-numbered ‘drifts’, 3 to 4 inches deep, anytime from mid-September to mid-October. This gives the corm time to grow roots before the ground freezes. (There is no obvious top or bottom to these corms, however, the com will find it’s way up to the light). Most Minnesota soils are rich in phosphorus, an essential macronutrient for blooming. Unless your soil tests deficient in phosphorus or potassium, skip the fertilizer and add compost when planting these corms. white anemone blanda; Photo credit Missouri Botanical Garden Although occasionally available at big box stores, anemone blanda can be hard to find. Do an internet search for anemone blanda or visit the websites for Brecks, Spring Hill, Dutch Grown or Burpee Gardening. All these online stores carry anemone blandas/Grecian windflowers. Plant now and enjoy these colorful, daisy-like flowers next April. References: https://www.almanac.com/plant/anemone https://www.dutchbulbs.com/products/anemone-blanda-blue-shades?utm_content=3646247&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=KV+-+DSA+-+Products+-+NBRD&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20162711193&gbraid=0AAAAADxAdBZsRNFcuHohv5uvZ5o5Zeq68&gclid=CjwKCAjwpefSBhBvEiwAzyEtZzL8OAJypEdxUAz8MNQYnliJNPUrWRW3oQxs1GHqtHsF9oplJ91gkRoCThUQAvD_BwE https://extension.umn.edu/gardening-minnesota/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes#spring-care-for-hardy-bulbs-1402461

< Back Tea For Your Sipping Pleasure Tea is a popular drink across the globe - hot tea in the winter and a cold, refreshing iced tea in the summer. Did you know that many of the plants that make a delicious tea can be grown in your Minnesota garden? Sumac, nettle, ginger and mint are just a few local plants from which delicious tea can be made. In this month’s Garden to Kitchen section, we feature a tea from the lovely roselle hibiscus flower. Although, it is commonly grown in warmer temperature zones, it can be grown as an annual in Minnesota. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Tea is a popular drink across the globe - hot tea in the winter and a cold, refreshing iced tea in the summer. Did you know that many of the plants that make a delicious tea can be grown in your Minnesota garden? Sumac, nettle, ginger and mint are just a few local plants from which delicious tea can be made. In this month’s Garden to Kitchen section, we feature a tea from the lovely roselle hibiscus flower . Although, it is commonly grown in warmer temperature zones, it can be grown as an annual in Minnesota. Photo Credit: www.gardensall.com roselle hibiscus flowers Agua (AH-wa or AUG-wa) de jamaica (hah-MY-kah) is a refreshingly tart iced tea that you may have tried either on a trip to Mexico or at your local Tex-Mex restaurant. Did You know that its lovely deep red color and delicious flavor comes from dried roselle hibiscus flowers? Though the roselle hibiscus originated in West Africa, it is commonly grown in Mexico, and South and Central America. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com roselle hibiscus plant bud This basic recipe for jamaica, taken from muydelish.com , is a very simple 3-ingredient infusion. Of course, anyone may have their own family recipe which they may share with you or not! Ingredients for the basic recipe are: 2 cups dried roselle hibiscus flowers (found at your local Latin store) 16 cups cold water 1 cup sugar, or to taste Bring 2 cups of dried jamaica flowers (also known as hibiscus and flor de Jamaica) and 8 cups of cold water to a soft boil for 5 minutes in a medium pot. Remove from heat. Add 1 cup sugar, or a sweetener variation below, and stir until dissolved. Add the remaining cups of cold water and steep for at least 2 hours or overnight. When steeping is complete, strain the flowers from the tea and pour tea into a large pitcher. (Yes, you may compost the spent jamaica!) Store in the refrigerator and pour over ice whenever the spirit hits you! Photo Credit: worldoffloweringplants.com roselle hibiscus tea on ice and warm, with tea leaves Variations during boiling include adding a cinnamon stick, a pinch of allspice or a little fresh ginger. Alternative sweeteners include piloncillo – a cone-shaped brown sugar, or agave syrup. You may add a mint sprig or some lime juice to your glass – delicious! References: muydelish.com https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hibiscus-sabdariffa/ https://www.epicgardening.com/roselle/ Photo Credits: Worldoffloweringplants.com (1), www.flickr.com (2), www.gardensall.com (3)

< Back Junior Spring Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener CALLING ALL JUNIOR SPRING GARDEN DETECTIVES! Do you know a child who has wondered how we know it is finally spring in Minnesota? After the long, cold days of our Minnesota’s winter, every child eagerly awaits the arrival of warm breezes, extended daylight and splashable puddles of spring. Help that child become a Junior Spring Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of spring’s arrival. Calling all Junior Spring Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are to prove spring has arrived in Minnesota. Once the clues are known, pull on your rain boots and head outside to observe the evidence of spring revealed in plants, trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your senses of sight, hearing, touch, smell and taste, you can solve the mystery of whether or not spring is here. CLUES Have you ever noticed how plants and animals suddenly emerge outside seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? The clues for the sudden change to spring are based on the fact that every plant needs air, light, water, nutrients and usually soil. When the plants appear, so do animals and other creatures. With nutrients in the soil present, look for the three clues for the presence of spring: Air. As spring begins, the Minnesota air temperatures increase from a chilly March average of 40.6’ F to a pleasant 70.1’ F in May. The warm air in turn gently heats up the ground where plants have been hiding all winter. Light. Spring brings longer days allowing our yards to bask in much needed sunlight. Daylight increases by a total of approximately 2 hours from February to May. Water. A Minnesota spring means the start of more rainfall. The month of May averages 3.24 inches of rain, in comparison to February’s rainfall average of a mere .79 inches. EVIDENCE Head outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of spring: warmer air, longer days and a puddle or two to splash with your boots! What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged spring to arrive? Plants. The mild air temperatures, longer days and spring showers push plants to grow through the warmed soil to receive even more warmth and light. Look for spring flowers, such as tulips, daffodils, creeping phlox, to display their bright and colorful blooms. Trees. Trees and bushes bud out gradually to appear on branches. Some trees and bushes, like magnolias, lilacs and forsythia, burst open their blossoms for a showy display around your neighborhood. Creatures. The arrival of spring invites the creatures in your yard to return from fall migration to the south, emerge from safe winter spots or awake from hibernation. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, trek back north to join the Minnesota skies in the spring. Butterflies, like the monarch, take a long two stage journey north after wintering in Mexico. https://journeynorth.org/projects Other animals, insects and birds remained in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or hunkering down under brush and evergreens. Now, they are venturing out for food found in the newly grown seeds and plants and the worms wiggling around in the warmed soil. With the food sources plentiful and more protective places to live, birds and animals mate during late winter or early spring. By the time their babies are born, Minnesota spring is in full swing. SOLVE Want to prove that spring has sprung in your Minnesota yard or park? Use the worksheet below to observe for a week if the three clues of spring are present and then gather evidence to prove that spring is really here! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects No Mow May: https://beelab.umn.edu/no-mow-may Book recommendation: Goodbye Winter, Hello Spring by Kenard Pak is a beautifully illustrated children’s book exhibiting the season of winter slowly turning into spring. Borrow from the Dakota County Library ( ISBN: 9781250151728) or buy at Amazon CITATIONS https://cdn.agclassroom.org/mn/edu/garden/guide.pdf https://www.rssweather.com/climate/Minnesota/Minneapolis-St.Paul/ https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.minnesotanorthwoods.com/minnesota-is-for-the-birds-spring-bird-migration/ http://www.minnesotaseasons.com/Insects/monarch.html https://www.monarchnet.org/spring-migration-ecology https://journeynorth.org/projects https://beelab.umn.edu/no-mow-may JUNIOR SPRING GARDEN DETECTIVES For a week in May, observe whether the three spring clues are present and if there is enough evidence to show that spring has sprung. Use your senses of sight, hear, touch, smell and taste to collect the evidence. Sun Mon Tues Wed Thurs Fri Sat Clues Air Temp (mid day) Daylight (# hours between sunrise/set) Water/Rain **After completing the chart, ask if your findings show increased warmth, increased daylight time and some presence of rain (might be over a few weeks). If so, you know that spring is likely here in Minnesota. Collect evidence to support the spring clues, by heading outdoors to answer the following questions and using some of your senses: Do you see more birds, animals, butterflies and other creatures when you are outside? List what you see here. Do you hear birds chirping, animals chattering or insects buzzing when outside? Record what you hear here. Can you touch newly grown buds, leaves, blossoms and plants that have appeared in recent days/weeks? Jot down what you can touch. Can you smell the fragrances of new blossoms or new plants or the smell of the soil after a rainfall? Describe what you smell here. Do you see any creatures tasting the new buds, blossoms, seeds and leaves? Report what you observe here. Congratulations! You have solved the question of whether or not spring has arrived in Minnesota. You are now an official Junior Spring Garden Detective! Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3,4) & Book Jacket (5)

< Back Rosemary Rosemary has been a prized herb with many uses for centuries. It has been associated with enhanced brain function, it has health benefits, it has a lovely scent and it adds flavor to your recipes. Read this article to learn more about this ancient herb and, if you don’t already grow this herb in your garden, why you should consider doing so next season. Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Rosemary is truly a very special herb and one of my very favorites. Today, we may love rosemary for its scent, use in the kitchen and decorative qualities but this is an herb that has been appreciated by humans for centuries. The use of rosemary has a long and distinguished history. The first known reference to rosemary dates back to Egyptian cuneiforms over 7,000 years ago. But most of the early references to this herb are from the Greeks and Romans, beginning around 500 B.C. Rosemary originated in the Mediterranean, especially around the coastal areas. Its name comes from ‘ros’ and ‘marinus’, which translates to ‘dew of the sea’. Originally classified as ‘rosmarinus officinalis’, in 2017 it was reclassified as ‘salvia rosmarinus’. Rosemary has long been associated with aiding in brain function. Greek scholars would braid it into their hair to help them with their studies. Today it is known to be rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. It is also known to help with digestion and hair growth and renewal. When used in cooking, it is used sparingly, as it has a very strong flavor and a little goes a long way. Rosemary is a perennial shrub in zones 7 to 10. Here in Minnesota, it is grown as an annual, as it cannot survive our harsh winters. My favorite way to grow rosemary is in combination containers. The ‘prostrata’ varieties have a trailing habit, and tuck right up to the edge and spill over, creating a fabulous lacy carpet. Since rosemary is slow growing, it will not overwhelm other plants. I purchase starters as early in the season as possible, which allows it to get bigger before I transplant it. This summer, I used several as a trailer in a container with a boxwood. A week before the temperatures were forecast to drop into the 40s, I repotted the rosemary into a smaller container all by itself to settle in before bringing it inside for the winter. It is a good candidate for overwintering, as you can leave it out much longer than other plants, and put it out again in early spring. The plant can survive a frost, so typically I bring it in around November, and put it out again in April. Once indoors for the winter, place it in a sunny spot, away from drafts. It likes humidity, but hates wet feet. Misting it often is recommended. Some winters I do not try to overwinter rosemary in containers. Instead, I just make a fresh rosemary bouquet. This works well for the upright versions. Cut the stems at the base of the plant and place in a container of water. Make sure you strip the leaves at the bottom, as they will rot in water (these can be used in your cooking). The rosemary bouquet eventually dwindles as you use it, however, it usually takes me through the holiday season before it is gone. Rosemary has been a prized herb with many uses for centuries for good reason. If you don’t already grow this herb in your garden, consider doing so next season. Photo Credit: kampung-kuliner.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Shari Mayer (2)

< Back To Till or Not to Till One sure sign of spring for me as a young man was my father-in-law rototilling his vegetable garden. He’d fire up his trusty TroyBuilt and belching smoke and fumes, pulverize a good portion of his back yard. The resultant fluffy black soil seemed to invite planting. Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener One sure sign of spring for me as a young man was my father-in-law rototilling his vegetable garden. He’d fire up his trusty TroyBuilt and belching smoke and fumes, pulverize a good portion of his back yard. The resultant fluffy black soil seemed to invite planting. Thinking has changed over the years, however. Many soil scientists are questioning the wisdom of unbridled tilling. We’ve come to realize that garden soil is more than a receptacle for water and plant nutrients. Rather it is a living entity harboring billions of microbes and minerals most of which are highly beneficial to plant growth. It also is a complex structural milieux, permitting the passage and retention of water, the movement of oxygen and other gases of plant metabolism. Tilling can disrupt these structures and destroy many of the microbes beneficial to plant growth. Over time this can lead to soil compaction, reduced water holding capacity and erosion. Paradoxically, it also can bring weed seeds to the surface to germinate. That’s not to say that the time-honored process of tillage is without benefit. It does create an even seedbed. It warms the soil in spring and helps to work in compost and other soil amendments. So how can you achieve these desirable results from methods other than tillage? In starting a new garden, a rototiller will make quick work of existing vegetation. However, the same result can be obtained by solarization or occultation. Solarization is achieved by placing a sheet of clear plastic over the future garden area and letting the sun fry any plants underneath. I prefer occultation, a fancy term for smothering plant life under black plastic. A black plastic tarp covering a field for occultation If you are trying to start a garden on heavily compacted soil, say an area that’s been run over by heavy mower for years, tilling may be the best solution. However, if the soil is workable consider using a broadfork. This is a dandy tool to reduce compaction in a new or existing garden without breaking up the soil aggregates. A broadfork has several metal tines on a bar with a couple of handlebars on each end. Stand on the bar and use your body weight to plunge the tines into the soil. Lean back and pull the tines through the soil. The creates soil aeration without turning it over or breaking it up as a tiller would. A seven-tine steel broadfork A broad fork in action Weed management has been a traditional role for tillers. The problem is they bring weed seeds up from the ground as they turn in grown weeds and their seeds. The end result is more annual weeds over time. If you reduce tillage this favors the dominance of perennial weeds which can be hand pulled or reduced by solarization or occultation as we talked about. Working in amendments of compost, manure, commercial fertilizers or cover crops is an important process to replenish your garden soil’s fertility. Traditionally this had been done with a tiller although there are good alternatives. We’ve already talked about the broadfork. Alternately a tilther can be used. This is a modified light tiller that only tills the top two or so inches of the soil. Being much shallower than the traditional tiller it can work in amendments while being much less destructive of the deeper soil structure. Want to learn more? Check out these links to the University of Minnesota Extension for alternatives to tillage: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/reducing-tillage-your-garden for solarization and occultation: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/use-suns-energy-kill-weeds Happy planting! Photo of Black Plastic Tarp on Field, Courtesy of Haley Rylander, Cornell University Photo of Seven-Tine Steel Broadfork courtesy of Bully Tools Broadfork at Gemplers.com Photo of Broadfork in Action courtesy of Seven Tine Unbreakable Broadfork at Way CoolTools.com

< Back Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts are one of the few crops usually harvested in late fall – late September through late October, depending on your location. Flavor improves with cooler fall weather and they can stay in the garden as long as temperatures remain above 20°F. Read more about how to grow and enjoy this late season vegetable. Julie Harris, Master Gardener As a ‘winter” plant, seeds can be planted indoors in June. They can be hardened off when the seedlings have 3 or 4 leaves (about 3 weeks). They can be planted outdoors about a week later. Direct seeded plants need twice the time to mature as seeds started indoors. You can also plant transplants. Brussels sprouts belong to the Brassica family. They are of the same species as broccoli, cabbage, collard greens, kale, and kohlrabi. Plant brussels sprouts in areas where they, or plants in the same family, have not been planted recently. Brussels sprouts require well-drained but moist soil with a pH between 6 and 7. Plant seeds 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep every 18 inches; thinning to 1 after they have germinated. Transplanted plants should be placed 18 inches apart. Brussels sprouts must have good soil moisture to mature properly. The amount of water needed will depend on your soil (clay, sandy or loamy) but keep the soil moist. Brussels sprouts plants are tender and you may need to protect them from wind and insects with a lightweight but secure row cover. Mulching is encouraged. Brussels sprouts look like mini cabbages and grow on the stalk of a tall, leafy plant. The sprouts develop where each leaf joins the stem, beginning at the bottom and moving up. Cut off the top 1 or 2 inches of the plant when the lowest sprouts are 1 inch in diameter. This will cause the sprouts at the top to grow also. Harvest brussels sprouts by removing the leaves and cutting the plant off at the ground. Keep the stalks in a cool cellar and harvest the sprouts over a few weeks. They are generally harvested from the stalk when the sprout is 2 inches or less. Sprouts will also keep in the refrigerator in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks. Brussels sprouts are high in nutrients, fiber and vitamins and have a number of health benefits. They are especially rich in vitamin K, which is necessary for blood clotting and bone health. They are also high in vitamin C, which helps promote iron absorption and helps with tissue repair and immune function. What type of Brussel Sprouts should you look for? In recent University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener vegetable trials, the top 3 rated varieties were: Gustus, Hestia, and Diablo. Brussels sprouts can be cooked in many ways but roasting is a common method. They can be frozen or pickled. Reference: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts Photo credits: www.pixels.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Mollsmadeleine.blogsport.com (3)

< Back Bug Hotels and Pollinator Habitats Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Let’s focus on two insect populations: bees and caterpillars. Bees The majority of flowers and about one third of all crops depend upon pollination. When these populations are threatened, so is food security. For an extreme example, consider the farmers of Sichuan province in China who hand paint pollen onto their fruit trees because insecticides have killed off bee populations. Somewhere between 60-70% of bee species dig burrows in the ground, while the remaining 30-40% nest in cavities such as holes in trees or hollow stems. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: For ground-nesting bees, provide areas in your garden with undisturbed soil, keeping insecticides away. For cavity-nesting bees, leave stems of varying lengths (8-24”) over winter and don’t trim back until after spring. Provide a water source for mud-building bees. For bumblebees who need insulation to build nests, provide a brush pile with sticks and leaves. Consider a bug hotel to provide more spaces for cavity-nesting bees—you can build one yourself or find a ready-made bug hotel for purchase. Caterpillars While most gardeners love bees, caterpillars are often seen as a problem in the garden—and for a good reason. Hornworms decimate tomato plants and cabbage loopers devour all sorts of edible greens. However, entomologist and conservationist Doug Tallamy argues that since caterpillars dominate the nesting diets of the majority of birds, these insects are necessary for healthy bird populations. For example, 75% of the food chickadees bring their young is caterpillars. While some caterpillars eat a variety of plants and can be considered generalists, many caterpillars are specialists that only eat one particular plant. Monarch butterflies, of course, rely upon milkweed flowers alone, while goldenrods are eaten by 80-plus different kinds of caterpillars. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: Go to Native Plant Finder ( https://www.nwf.org/NativePlantFinder/Plants/Flowers-and-Grasses ) to look up which flowers best attract beneficial caterpillars in your area as generalists. Consider specialist caterpillars you want to attract and plant the flower or tree they rely upon. Convert some of your lawn to native wildflowers and grasses. If you don’t have a lawn, try a container garden of native wildflowers. Add a bed of native wildflowers and grasses below any trees that host caterpillars; this provides a soft, protected space for the caterpillars’ transformation. Use mosquito dunk tablets instead of mosquito sprays to control those populations. Even sprays that say they only target mosquitos have been shown to hurt other insects. For More: Bee Lab (University of Minnesota). https://beelab.umn.edu Davies, Dave. “The World's Insect Population Is in Decline—And That's Bad News for Humans,” Fresh Air , (February 24, 2022). https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2022/02/24/1082752634/the-insect-crisis-oliver-milman Habitat Installation Guide: Upper Midwest. Xerces Society. https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/15-042.pdf Homegrown National Park. https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ Millman, Oliver. The Insect Crisis: The Fall of the Tiny Empires That Run the World. New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company, 2022. Native Plant Finder. https://www.nwf.org/nativeplantfinder/ Photo Credit: John McLinden ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/fogey03/34605941461 ) (1)