< Back Make Your Own Terrariums By Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Terrariums are miniature gardens that can bring a touch of nature to any room, making them the perfect project for kids who love getting their hands dirty and learning about the environment. Not only are they fun and easy to create, but they also teach children responsibility and patience as they watch their plants grow and thrive. Here are some tips for getting your little ones involved in planting and caring for their own terrariums. 1. Choose a container The first step in creating a terrarium is choosing a container. This can be anything from an old mason jar to a fishbowl. It’s important to make sure the container is clear so that your child can easily see the plants growing inside. 2. Select the plants Next, let your child choose the plants they want to include in their terrarium. Succulents and cacti are great options as they’re low-maintenance and can survive in a variety of conditions. Other plants to consider are moss, ferns, and air plants. It’s important to choose plants that have similar care requirements and will grow well together in a closed environment. 3. Layer the soil and gravel Place a layer of gravel at the bottom of the container for drainage, then add a layer of potting soil. This will give the plants the necessary nutrients to grow. You can also add a layer of activated charcoal to prevent odors and keep the soil fresh. 4. Plant and decorate Let your child get their hands dirty and help them plant the chosen plants in the soil. They can also add decorative elements such as small figurines or rocks to add a personal touch to the terrarium. Encourage them to use their creativity and make it their own. 5. Provide care and maintenance Explain to your child the importance of taking care of their terrarium by watering it regularly and providing adequate sunlight. It’s important to not overwater the terrarium as the enclosed environment can become too damp, causing the plants to rot. Teach your child to pay attention to the signs of when a terrarium needs water, such as dry soil or droopy plants. For more information about building terrariums, watch this video ! Photo credits: All creative commons (1), Cassandrapence.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Cover Crops Cover crops? What are they and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. Dig into this article to learn more about why and how to incorporate cover crops in your garden. By Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener What is a cover crop and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. They can be considered a living mulch because of their thick growth. Other benefits of growing cover crops include reducing erosion, maintaining soil structure, and managing weeds. As a ‘green manure’, cover crops serve to provide organic matter and nutrients back into the soil. Cover crops can support a wide range of soil microorganisms and importantly, given the drought conditions of the past few years, they help the soil retain water. Cover crops can be legumes such as vetch, clover, beans, and peas; grasses/cereals such as annual ryegrass, oats, rapeseed, winter wheat, and winter rye; and buckwheat. Selection will depend upon when you are planting your cover crop, where the cover crop will be planted in your garden, and your purpose in planting, e.g., add nitrogen, suppress weeds. The UMN Extension website provides numerous resources to help you make the best selection for your garden (see references at the end of this article). There is also a comparison guide of different cover crop options and information on seeding rates, ( Comparisons and Planting Rates ). Figure 1 below provides a snapshot of the table that can help you make the best selection, with planting times. Figure 1: Planting timing and seeding rate When selecting which cover crop to grow, you also may want to consider a few key factors. If you choose a cover crop that dies over the winter, it will be easy to work into the soil in the spring. If you select a plant that will survive Minnesota’s winters, you will need to have a way to kill the plant and then work it into the soil. You will also want to carefully consider the various benefits to growing a cover crop and determine which ones are of greatest importance. Some cover crops provide pollinators with food, help prevent weeds from growing, prevent erosion, or add nitrogen. Figure 2: Selecting cover crops based on effectiveness of providing various benefits When to plant cover crops is the next major decision. In Minnesota, our growing areas often sit empty after the harvest has occurred. Cover crops can be sown in early spring as a cool season crop in an area where you might plant tomatoes or pumpkins, which need warmer soil and temperatures to grow. If you grow cool season vegetables like lettuce or spinach, you could grow a cover crop during the summer months when it is too hot for these plants. Cover crops can also be grown in late summer after harvesting early vegetables that might be done by August. Late Fall before freezes occur is another option, once all the vegetables beds have been emptied. Figure 3, from the University of Minnesota Extension ( Cover crop selection for vegetable growers ), outlines these plant timing options, accompanied by illustrations of vegetables that might be grown before or after planting a cover crop. Please note the timing in the graph is approximate. You can find seeds for cover crops at garden stores, farm stores, and vegetable seed catalogs. To derive the full benefit, you will usually want to plant your cover crops densely, unlike the usual vegetable garden practices of spacing seeds. You will want to fertilize and water your cover crop to encourage a thick growth of biomass. You then work this back into the soil, adding organic matter. References Cover Crops and green manures in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/cover-crops-and-green-manures Cover crop selection for vegetable growers https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Cover crops improve soil health, even on a small scale https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/cover-crops-improve-soil-health-even-small-scale Cover crop comparisons and planting rates https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops/cover-crop-options#cover-crop-guides-and-resources-2174260 PHoto credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Making Delicious Meals with Hardy Vegetables Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Master Gardener Joy Johnson is an accomplished vegetable grower but even she struggled this year with the effects of the hot weather and drought on her crops. Still, she offers 4 tried, true and delicious recipes for using the vegetables that were garden champions this year. You will want to read this article for inspiration in the kitchen! It’s the first of August and I’m hoping your garden is flourishing this month. I must tell you, with the drought and the rain and the storms, some of my veggies are doing great and some are struggling along. Gardening is always a gamble, we do our part to plant, weed, fertilize, mulch and water, but sometimes even with all that TLC our veggies might not produce like the seed catalogs promised they would. I consider it a challenge. My garden has thrown down the gauntlet, asking me if I can make something nutritious and delicious with its sometimes-meager offerings. I accept that challenge! Since I like to eat lighter in the summer, I have been focusing on soups and salads. Here are a couple of soup recipes and a colorful salad. The Italian Garden Vegetable Soup is vegetarian and is quick and easy to make. The Zuppa Toscana is my hack of Olive Garden’s soup of the same name. This is a heavier cream-based soup, and makes great use of tons of kale, which you may have in abundance right now! And the Broccoli Slaw is a triumph over critters and heat. This month I also included a Martini drink recipe. My brother and I grow lots of basil and this cocktail that he came up with is a cool, refreshing use of basil. Grapefruit is one my favorite fruits. You can use canned grapefruit juice, but fresh squeezed elevates this cocktail to a gourmet level. Italian Garden Vegetable Soup (makes 6-8 servings) 2 medium zucchinis, sliced 2 medium yellow summer squash, sliced 1 small or medium eggplant, peeled and diced 6 medium tomatoes, diced (whatever variety you grew are fine) 2-4 ears of corn, kernels cut off the cob (steam first, then it’s easier to cut them off) 2 parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups veggie broth (store bought or homemade) 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley (dried is fine too. You’ll see I used dried in the photo. My parsley didn’t do well this year, but I have plenty of dried from last year) 1/4-1/2 tsp onion salt Salt and pepper Place all ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to steam vegetable in broth for 10 minutes. Add more salt and pepper if you’d like. Zuppa Toscana (make 8-10 servings) 1 large white onion diced 1 ½ pounds ground Italian sausage. I have a home blend of venison and spicey Italian port sausage that is quite spicey. You can use a mild Italian sausage or a spicier variety depending on how much heat you want. 7 small red potatoes, peeled, quartered, and thinly sliced 2 cups chicken broth 4 cups water 1-2 tsp red chili flakes (don’t use this if you use a spicier sausage) 1 pint whipping cream 1 large bunch of kale, tough stems removed, and leaves chopped Chicken bouillon powder. In a large pot, brown the onion and sausage; drain fat. Add potatoes, broth, water, and chili flakes. Cover pot and bring to a boil for about 20 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Stir in the cream. Soup will thicken the longer you keep it warm and stirred. Mix kale into hot soup for about the last 5 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust seasoning with small addition of bouillon, if desired. Cashew Broccoli Slaw (makes 6 servings) I grew tiny cabbages, a couple of red ones and a couple of green ones (lots of insect damage). But you don’t need a lot to make this tasty salad. My broccoli also didn’t produce much. I consider it a triumph that I can use what I grow to make something good regardless of its quantity or quality. Dressing: 1 cup plain yogurt 1/3 cup sugar 1 T apple cider vinegar In a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, sugar, and vinegar until smooth. Salad: 1 medium sized head of broccoli, washed, peel the stems and chop 1 small head of red cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 small head of green cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 carrot, grated or julienned ¼ cup garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed ¼ cup chopped green onions 1 cup raisins or craisins 1 cup cashew pieces, salted Add broccoli, cabbage, green onions and raisins/craisins to the bowl. Fold slaw mixture into dressing until evenly coated. Chill until ready to serve. Toss cashews into the salad right before serving. Dale’s Grapefruit-Basil Martini 3 parts fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 part grapefruit vodka (Dale uses Citron – the one with no added sugar) ½ part Elderflower liqueur (Dale uses St. Germain) ½ part fresh lime juice ½ part simple syrup to taste (1 part sugar, 2 parts water) 1-2 springs fresh basil 2-3 drops grapefruit bitters Muddle basil in the grapefruit juice and refrigerate for 24 hours in a Mason jar. Stir or shake periodically. After 24 hours, strain out the basil (a few remaining green flecks are okay). Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with basil (which really provides more of a basil punch!) Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)

< Back Building a Pollinator Garden Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” This may or may not be a true Albert Einstein quote but the concept is valid. We need bees and all pollinators. Approximately 75% of the world’s flowering plants require a pollinator to reproduce. Pollinators help produce one-third of our food. It’s hard to imagine a diet without many fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Yet, pollinators are at serious risk. You can learn more about this risk at the Bee Lab at the University of Minnesota . But the purpose of this article to focus attention not on the risk, but on what we can do to help. Here are some suggestions. 1. Rethink your lawn! Perfectly manicured grass does nothing for pollinators. Maybe it’s time to let some dandelions and clovers grow in that back corner of your property. These two wildflowers (not necessarily weeds) are prime food sources for pollinators during the late spring and early summer. Stagger mowing so that some of the flowers are in bloom at all times. Take steps to protect the pollinator habitat that exists on your property, especially if this area is out of the way. This could be a bare patch of soil, a dead tree, a rock or brush pile where native pollinators build nests. This is the perfect time to cut down on the amount of grass you have and build a pollinator garden. 2. Design a pollinator garden! First of all, it helps to have sun. The vast majority of pollinator plants are sun-loving. But don’t despair if you have a shady yard; there are shade plants that attract pollinators. A source of water should be available. An old bird bath filled with pebbles and water makes an ideal source of water. A mud bath will attract butterflies as well as bees. Make sure there is a safe distance from any area where you use chemicals. Better yet, avoid chemicals altogether. Although budget limitations might demand that you start small, allow room for expansion. In the world of pollinators, bigger is better. 3. Go native! Avoid highly hybridized plants that are bred to be seedless and thus produce very little pollen and scent. It’s been estimated that native plants are four times more attractive to pollinators than hybrids. Emphasize diversity, not only in variety but also in size, especially plant height. Your goal should be a minimum of 10 different plants; more is better. When you plant, do so in clumps at least 3 feet in diameter. Focus on bright colors. For bees, it’s white, yellow, blue, violet, and purple. Attract hummingbirds with red and orange colors. If you include all these colors, you will attract butterflies also. The shape of the flower is important. Do not include “double” flowers as the pollinators cannot reach the nectar. Single flowers are best. Flowers that provide a natural platform give pollinators a place to land. Flowers that resemble a bull’s-eye provide a nectar guide. This is a region near the center of each petal not seen by humans but visible to the pollinator. Some flowers should have a tubular shape to attract hummingbirds. It is very important to provide nectar and pollen all season-long. Include flowers that bloom continually or stagger bloom times to cover the entire growing season. An excellent source of information regarding plants for bees can be found at the “Bee Squad” at the University of Minnesota. 4. Provide nesting sites! The fourth suggestion is to provide nesting space that provides morning and mid-day sun. Ideally, this should be within three hundred feet of the food sources. Keep in mind that approximately 70% of all native bees are ground-nesters. So, an area of bare soil is mandatory. These bees seldom nest in rich, compact soils so you might have to work some sandy or loamy matter into the soil. The tunnel-nesting bees, approximately 30% of our native species, need old tree stumps, logs, or piles of twigs and branches. Rock piles can also provide nesting areas. Allow this area to remain untouched, especially during the fall and winter months to allow the eggs and larvae to develop. There are man-made nesting solutions. You can find plans on the internet for wooden nesting boxes, stem bundles, butterfly boxes, etc. There are even plans for bumblebee nests. Consider a honeybee hive and learn about their fascinating community lifestyle. 5. Go organic! Finally, we can safeguard beneficial pollinators by going natural or organic. Avoid the use of chemicals, including fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, insecticides or fungicides. Your pollinator garden is a good place to let the garden go wild. If you must use chemicals, please do so in small, limited quantities and at times when the pollinators are resting, as in the late evening. Remember, while you are killing one pest or weed, you are likely killing beneficial pollinators as well. Following these suggestions will not only add beauty to your yard but will help restore the pollinators we need. Our future depends on these pollinators; without them our food source will dwindle Photo credits: Cheryl Forrest (1, 2)

< Back Master Gardener Seed Trials – Choose the Best Varieties Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s March and you may be thinking about starting vegetable or flower seeds for your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, basil, zinnias, tomatoes? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. So, how do you know what variety to plant? You can look through the seed catalogs or go to the garden store and peruse the many different varieties on the racks. Confused? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help. The UMN Extension sponsors Annual Master Gardener Seed Trials to find the best varieties of various vegetables and flowers. In 2023, 235 Master Gardeners from 51 counties, participated in the Seed Trials. Seed Trial participants test 6 different varieties of 8 different plants against each other (6 vegetables and two flower varieties; including one herb). The collective results of the trials are compiled at the end of each growing season and each plant is ranked. Winners are the top performers in each trial. The rankings are published each year by March – in time to help you, the home gardener, learn about and obtain the most highly ranked plants to grow in your garden – or to purchase when harvested. This will be the 42 nd year of the Seed Trials’ existence, so there is ample data on many varieties to inform the home gardener. In Dakota County, Master Gardeners manage two Seed Trial Gardens; one in the First Presbyterian Church Community Garden, South St. Paul and one at St. Joseph’s Church in Rosemount. Some individual Master Gardeners also participate by testing plants in their own gardens. Two Dakota County Master Gardeners – Marc Battistini and Janice Gestner – are among the group at UMN Extension who select which plants will be part of the trials. Master Gardeners receive the seeds from the UMN Extension and grow the plants from seed. The plants are planted in the ground or transferred to the gardens in the spring according to planting instructions. Teams of Master Gardeners prepare the soil, plant the seeds or seedlings, water, weed, and monitor diseases and insects on the plants over the summer. Taste tests are performed when the plants are ready for harvest. Data is kept throughout the summer on each plant variety regarding: flavor, disease and insect tolerance, productivity and germination rate. At the end of the growing season, the data is given to the UMN Extension, which compiles the statewide data and produces the annual report. Dakota County Master Gardeners who work the gardens also provide horticultural education to community members. Produce is donated to a local food shelf. Complete results of the trials are available here . In 2023, the top ranked plants in each category were: Paste Tomatoes – Cipolla’s Pride; Green Pole Beans – Seychelles; Red Carrots – Malbec; Mustard Greens – Mizuna; Small Watermelon – Mini Love; Purple Basil – Amethyst Improved; Melampodium – Derby; and Pink Cleome – Mauve Queen . You can find a complete list of all of the seed trials since 1982 at the same site. In 2024, Master Gardeners will be testing 6 varieties of Swiss chard, Asian long beans, stem broccoli, cilantro, shallots, snacking peppers, helichrysum (strawflowers) and centaurea (bachelor buttons). Look for the results of those trials in winter 2025. Dakota County Master Gardeners also test plants for the PanAmerican Seed Company. These plants include annual flower varieties and some vegetables. Typically, the seeds grown in these trials are plants that PanAmerican is testing in various test trials around the country to help them decide which plants can be successfully grown and marketed. Data on these plants is compiled periodically over the summer and a report is sent to PanAmerican at the end of the growing season. Currently, the primary trial garden is located in Rosemount. Volunteer Master Gardeners around the state, including Dakota County, participate in various projects which improve horticulture and provide gardening information that will be useful to the home gardener. The vegetable and flower trials are one of these projects. Hopefully, you can use this information to grow happy, healthy vegetables (or flowers) for your enjoyment. Photo Credits: Photo 1 – University of Minnesota Extension; Susan Hickey Photo 2 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 3 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 4 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 5 – Jean Chrysler Photo 6 – Jean Chrysler

< Back What Will This Warm Winter Do To My Plants And Is Dakota County Warmer? Some of us enjoyed our strangely warm winter and others of us mourned the lack of snow and cold temperatures. But for gardeners, the main concerns now center around questions like – what effect will the warm, snowless winter have on my plants; on how I prune my trees and shrubs; and what about the bug population? And looking beyond this year, is Minnesota warming? And, if so, what does that mean for the plants I have or will plant? Read this article for some answers to your questions. Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener & Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener How Will the Warm Winter Affect My Plants This Year? The lack of cold and snow may have some effect on your plants, shrubs and trees but there are some things that you can do now, and in the future, to mitigate the damage. Which plants are likely to be affected depends somewhat on your fall preparation and on other factors, such as the plant species. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension experts have prepared an excellent article that provides answers to all of these questions. Click this link to access a thorough discussion and practical advice for dealing with the effects of our warm winter. How does the 2023 hardiness zone change affect my garden? The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) produces a “plant hardiness zone map,” which is a tool based on average annual extreme winter temperatures. The zone map can help gardeners decide which plants may grow well in their garden. Of course, other factors affect whether a plant will thrive in your garden, notably - soil, sun, water and care. But the zone map is a helpful tool and so is something of which you should be aware. In 2023, the USDA updated the zone maps for the first time since 2012. The 2023 USDA hardiness zone map documents the average minimum temperatures of weather from 1991 to 2020. There are 13 zones in the USDA zone map, divided into 10 degree increments. The larger numbers are warmer zones and smaller numbers are cooler zones. Each zone is also divided into half zones (“a” and “b”) which indicate a 5 degree change in temperature. It’s a pretty good bet that a plant that can thrive in zone 13 is not going to thrive in zone 4. So, the farther south you are the warmer it gets, right? Well, not always. In the 2012 zone map, Dakota county was in the 4b zone . In the 2023 zone map, parts of Dakota County are in 5a (-20 to -15) and others are in 4b (-25 to -20). Significantly, the 2023 map is able to show variations due to “heat sinks” near cities, mountains and bodies of water. In other words, cities tend to hold more heat because they include large areas of concrete and blacktop. Areas of the county closer to the Twin Cities are actually warmer than farther south! But note that more of southwestern Minnesota is now in the 5a zone as well. Being aware of your zone will allow you to make better choices when you buy plants. Plants that were once marginally hardy in the Dakota County area may now have a higher chance of surviving. When you buy a plant at your local nursery, they may have a tag that gives you the zones in which it is hardy. Before, you might have passed over “Reticulated Iris” (zones 5-9). Now, if you live in an area in the (5a) heat sink of the Twin Cities, you might give it a shot. References: blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu Updated USDA hardiness zoning maps Madeline Wimmer, Extension Educator, Fruit Crops Images: The new 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map for Minnesota (left) and previous from 2... extension.umn.edu A new plant hardiness zone map from the USDA Using data collected from over 13,000 weather stations during a 30-year period, the new USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map provides higher resolution and more accurate zonal information. Photo Credits: Photo 1 – Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons), Photo 2 – University of Minnesota Extension

< Back All About Those Bee Houses Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Bee house? Pollinator palace? Bug hotel? Check out some ideas for building pollinator real estate with the child in your life and find out why we may want to invite pollinators into our yards and gardens! A quick search of the internet finds all kinds of simple or fancy kits for making bee houses. These are for solitary bees that travel alone and lay their eggs, not the bees like honeybees that live in a group hive. Here’s one child-friendly idea to try at home: Select the shelter. I found that a round tissue holder was just the right size for my 8 in tunnels, but see what you have around your house and yard. The container should be open on one side, closed on the back and have a way for rain to run off. You can decorate the house with paints or markers if you like, or leave it just as it is. Bees like all kinds of decor! Make or find your tunnels. Here, I used a combination of empty toilet paper rolls to hold everything in place, some of last year’s dried plant stems (hosta and hydrangea - they have little tunnels just right for a solitary bee to burrow inside), and some paper that I rolled around a pencil and secured with a bit of tape. Different sized tubes are nice for different bees. Secure your bee house in a location with morning sun, evening shade, and some shelter from the wind. I found a great spot where the tree branch meets the trunk of the tree and used some twine to secure the bee house. Observe your bee house from a little distance and see who moves into your new pollinator apartments. See up close how a mason bee builds and uses its nest in the diagram from the University of Minnesota - Extension below: Why would we want to invite bees to our outdoor spaces? Well, besides being pretty interesting creatures to observe, bees are part of a special group called pollinators. This group includes bees, plus butterflies, moths, wasps, flies, beetles and birds. Pollinators are important because they help plants grow fruit and seeds! When a pollinator stops by a flower on a plant to drink up some nectar (the pollinator version of a yummy and nutritious smoothie before they continue on their way), they pick up some pollen dust on their bodies. The next time they land on a flower, they drop off some of this pollen and fertilize that plant. Then comes the fruit with seeds inside. So, think about apples, strawberries, pumpkins and a whole lot of other foods and flowers. If you like any of those, the pollinators are definitely helping you! So where does the new house come in? Well, after all that hard work, pollinators need a safe and sheltered place to rest and raise their young. They don’t need fancy accommodations, but pollinators do appreciate: a place to cool down and shelter from the wind, rain and hot afternoon sun a place to lay eggs and overwinter an accessible water source a nice buffet of pollinator-friendly plants like coneflower, milkweed and bee balm nearby You may know about “social” pollinators like honeybees that live in a hive with many other bees, but did you know we can also provide a habitat for helpful “solitary” pollinators such as mason bees. About 15% of bees nest on their own and lay eggs in cavities (tunnels) like the hollow tubes of dead plants or in spaces they find in brush piles. Consider installing a bee house any time during the year and you could be helping native solitary bees find their favorite apartment! Are you interested in reading to learn more about pollinator habitats? Take a look at these books, available through Dakota County Library: Nature’s Best Hope (Young Readers Edition) by Douglas W. Tallamy “This middle grade edition of the groundbreaking bestseller will inspire kids to use their backyard to help save the plant. Tallamy encourages kids to take direct action. Some of these ideas include planting an oak tree (one of the most important tree species) at home. If that’s too large of a task, he suggests they can plant asters - a beautiful flower whose pollen bees use to feed their young.” Turn This Book Into a Beehive! And 19 Other Experiments and Activities That Explore the Amazing World of Bees by Lynn Brunelle “[This book] lets kids make a difference in the world - building a home where bees can thrive is one small but critical step in reversing the alarming trend of dwindling bee populations” - provided by publisher Interested in even more information about this topic? https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests https://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants-insects/pollinators https://beelab.umn.edu/creat-nesting-habitat Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4)

< Back Summer Sweetcorn: Midwest Magic Sweetcorn in the summer, fresh from the field, hot out of the pot. That is a potent memory for any kid lucky enough to grow up in the Midwest. For those of you that are thinking about recapturing some of those childhood memories, there is great news. Modern sweetcorn hybrids are available that make it easier to bring quality corn to the table. To get that delicious ear of memory, however, there are a few things you must do to assure success. Read this article to successfully grow your sweetcorn memories. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner First, it’s a good idea to get your soil tested. The University Extension can do that inexpensively ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ). Apply phosphorus and potassium as recommended by the test results. Corn grows best in well-drained, organic-rich soil at a pH around 5.8 to 7.0. The soil test can help getting the pH right. Working organic mulch and/or compost into the soil will also increase its richness. If you have any questions, you can contact the University Extension for help ( https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden/contacts-yard-and-garden ). When planting the seeds (kernels) you should sew at least four rows. To produce, the corn must either self or cross-pollinate with a similar variety. If the wind does not blow the pollen from stalk to stalk, blank spots will appear on the ears, where pollination failed. That’s why you want your cornstalks huddled together. Wait until the soil temperature is at least 60o. Plant the kernels about an inch deep 30 to 36 inches apart. It probably is best just to plant one variety of sweetcorn in a small garden. If different strains cross-pollinate the result is usually an ear with poorer flavor and texture. Once the seedlings sprout, you’ll want to keep up the watering. Drought can badly stress the developing ears and greatly reduce quality. About an inch of water a week usually does the trick. You will also want to start hoeing before the weeds get out of hand. When cultivating, use a shallow stroke just below the soil surface. Sweetcorn roots are shallower than field corn so you don’t want to get too vigorous and damage your plants. As the corn gets taller it will tend to shadow out the weeds and make your job easier. The most common corn insect pests are the European corn borer and the corn earworm. If you do find a caterpillar near the tip of the ear as you husk it, don’t be alarmed. They are common. Cut the affected part off and cook the rest. A lot of insect problems can be avoided by delaying planting until the soil has warmed to 60o (usually by mid-May) and using a variety that will mature in less than 80 days. You should harvest your corn when the kernels in the center of the ear are full and “milky” when squeezed. You should watch for this when the silks start to brown and dry. This usually happens about 18 to 24 days after they first appear. Of course, you’ll want to eat as much as you can while it is fresh, but once you‘ve had your fill there are several ways to preserve your harvest. Depending on the variety you can store the ears in the refrigerator for one to seven days before they lose their flavor. If you want to can the corn you must use a pressure canner. If you have the space, freezing is an excellent way to preserve sweetcorn. We have removed the kernels from the cob, boiled and bagged before freezing with great corn, months after August harvest. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Microgreens - Only Micro in Size Did you think that you would have to wait until spring to grow fresh greens for your dinner table? Not so if you read this article and learn how to grow microgreens indoors. Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens-accept their size! Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Microgreens are easy to grow, quick to harvest, have year-round indoor growing potential, exceptional nutritional value, and seeds are available in many varieties for endless experimentation. There is nothing micro about microgreens - except their size! A microgreen is a plant in between the sprout stage and the baby stage of development. When we eat microgreens, we are eating the cotyledon (the embryonic leaf or leaves inside the seed) and a few of the plant’s true leaves. There are many benefits to growing and eating microgreens. They go from sowing to harvest in one to three weeks with minimal opportunities for failure. They can be grown indoors year-round. According to research , t hey contain 4 to 40 times more nutrients than full-grown plants. There are many varieties of microgreens available to grow and they all provide a delicious and fresh addition to many meals even in the dead of winter. When selecting your first microgreen variety to grow, something from the mustard family (Brassicaceae)—such as arugula, mustard or radish—is a good place to start as they germinate quickly and have a lot of flavor. Microgreen growing kits are growing in popularity and offer an effortless first foray into microgreen enjoyment. Many seed catalogue companies—"Johnny’s” and “High Mowing Seeds” to name two—have extensive microgreen seed selections complete with growing guides and they also have any supplies needed to start your growing operation. Here is what you will need to grow microgreens at home: 1) Any clean container with drainage holes (existing or added): think mushroom containers, salad mix containers, bottom half of a milk jug or even an egg carton and a tray to set the container in; 2) Seed-starting mix; 3) Organic, non-GMO seed from a reliable seed source; 4) A spray bottle or misting pump-sprayer for watering the delicate seedlings; and 5) A window or grow light or combination of the two; enough to provide 16 hours of light per day and at least 6 hours of darkness. More extensive microgreen growing can be done just as easily by the at-home gardener by upgrading to standard greenhouse growing trays called 1020 flats, high-output grow lights, a fan running on the plants to inhibit the growth of fungus and mold and liquid seaweed nutrients added to the water to boost nutrient values after seed germination. When starting your microgreens, ensure your seed-starting mix is tamped down, moist (but not too wet) and about 1.5 inches in depth. Your seed source or packet should have variety-specific directions for how thickly to sow seeds in your container. Keeping the seeds moist and in contact with the growing medium until germination, is essential. A seed sprouting lid works well as do damp paper towels. When the seeds have fully germinated and there are visible roots coming through the drain holes in your container, you can start watering from the bottom to reduce the risk of fungal growth and damaging or flattening your plants during watering. Microgreens are tender, delicate and best when eaten raw after minimal handling. Harvesting should occur when the plants are between 2 and 4 inches tall and have at least one true leaf. Cut the plants off just above the level of the soil, lightly wash and completely dry in a salad spinner and enjoy. Cut greens can be stored in a closed plastic container or bag in the fridge for up to three days and washed before enjoying. Alternately, washed greens can be stored after completely drying them using kitchen or paper towels. Enjoy your fresh and vibrant greens on almost anything; sandwiches, salads, pasta, pizza, stir fry or all on their own. There is an abundance of reliable micro greens resources on the internet—here are a few: https://themicrogardener.com/easy-guide-to-growing-microgreens/ https://microgreensworld.com/ https://extension.psu.edu/a-step-by-step-guide-for-growing-microgreens-at-home Photo credits: Joanna Kapke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Taking on Ticks Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener You’ve turned in after a productive day of gardening. Beginning to doze off, you feel something ever so slightly brushing against your thigh. You reach and feel a small hard object crawling up your leg. Lights on. It’s a tic, ambling along, looking for a nice warm place to suck your blood! It is tick season and there is good reason to be wary. You’ve turned in after a productive day of gardening. Beginning to doze off, you feel something ever so slightly brushing against your thigh. You reach and feel a small hard object crawling up your leg. Lights on. It’s a tick, ambling along looking for a nice warm place to suck your blood! Enough Stephen King. Ticks are gross but sometimes unavoidable if you are a gardener. Yet in addition to being unpleasant they can also be dangerous. The Centers for Disease Control list at least sixteen serious infectious diseases that can be transmitted by ticks in the United States, including Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. So what are these guys and how do they manage to get on your skin? Ticks are arachnids, insects that are second cousins to spiders, members of the Ixodida family. Like many insects they go through egg, larva, nymph and adult stages. At each stage of life they need a blood meal to survive. Most aren’t picky as to whose blood they drink, selecting mammal, bird, reptile or amphibian hosts as they pass through their life stages. Also they aren’t picky as to what’s in the blood they drink, ingesting whatever assorted bacteria or viruses the host happens to have. Ticks can’t jump or fly but they can wait patiently on a blade of grass or leaf, latching on to whomever happens to be passing by. Once on board, the tick settles down on a promising spot and inserts a feeding tube. In the process it often secretes saliva which can contain whatever infection the tick has picked up from its previous host. If all goes well (for the tick) it will feed for several days and then drop off to begin its next life stage and find its next victim. The deer tick (blacklegged tick) below is much smaller than the wood tick (American dog tick) above and to the right. The lone star tick on the upper right is occasionally seen in Minnesota. Although there are about a dozen species of ticks in Minnesota, two types commonly spread disease. They are the deer tick or black legged tick and the wood tick or American dog tick. Of the two the deer tick is by far the most common disease spreader, transmitting Lyme disease among other things. Wood ticks may spread Rocky Mountain spotted fever and tularemia but most bites thankfully are unpleasant but harmless. There are a number of things you can do to lessen the chance of picking up one of these fellows. First of all avoid wooded and brushy areas with high grass or leaf litter. Walk in the center of trails when you are out in the woods. If you can’t avoid these high exposure areas consider treating clothing and gear with 0.5% permethrin. It is available as a spray or you can even buy pretreated clothing and gear. The Environmental Protection Agency suggests use of insect repellants such as DEET, picaridin, IR3535, Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus (OLE), para-menthane-diol (PMD), or 2-undecanone. They advise against using OLE or PMD on children less than three years old. After a day out in the garden or the woods, it's best to shower down and then carefully check your body, clothing and gear for ticks. Don’t forget to check the family dog too! The life stages of the Blacklegged (deer) tick, lone star tick and American dog (wood) tick demonstrating their relative sizes. If you do find an attached tick, remove it with a pair of fine tipped forceps (tweezers). Grasp it as close to the skin as possible. Pull up with steady, even pressure. Don’t jerk or twist it as this may break off the mouth parts, leaving them in the skin. If this does happen remove them with the tweezer tips. After removing the tick, clean up the bite with rubbing alcohol or soap and water. Never crush a tick with your fingers. If you do develop a rash or a fever within a few weeks of a tick bite, see your health care provider right away. Be sure to tell him or her about the bite, when and where it occurred. Want to learn more? The CDC has an excellent site . Also check out this Minnesota Department of Health article . And read this article from University of Minnesota Extension’s entomologist, Jeffery Hahn. Photo credits: Minnesota Department of Health (1, 2)

< Back Is it Too Late to Plant . . .? Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener Now it’s June and for many reasons, you don’t have your garden planted. Is it too late? This article explains why the answer is a resounding No! There are many vegetables and annuals that have a shorter time to maturation and will allow you to enjoy the fruits of your June labor. Read on to learn how to save your summer planting enjoyment. Now it’s June and for many reasons, you don’t have your garden planted. Is it too late? The resounding and reassuring answer is – No! And the answer is also – it depends. There are many vegetables and flowers that you can plant in June and still get a good harvest. However, there are a few plants that need a long growing season and planting in June might not provide sufficient time for flowers or vegetables to mature. This year, we’ve had a cool, wet spring and many of the perennials (plants that grow back every year) are ‘behind schedule,’ emerging or blooming at least a couple of weeks late. This suggests we already have a delayed planting season and even gardens planted early might be growing slowly or may even need to be replanted if the seeds rotted in the wet soil or tiny plants experienced a frost or freeze. How do you know what you can plant? There are some key items to look at – read the back of the seed packages, if you are sowing seeds, or tags inserted into plants you purchase. The back of the seed package tells you when it is best to plant the seeds, how long before the seed will germinate (when you can expect to see green pushing up out of the ground), and how long to harvest if the seed is going to produce vegetables. If the seed package says 90 days until harvest, you can plant it, but you might not get to pick anything unless we have a long, warm fall. In the picture, you can see Turnips have an estimated 45 days to harvest, so that would work but Parsnips are harvested 95 days after sowing. Even in a good growing year, Parsnips might be a gamble. If the package says the vegetable is a cool season crop, like peas, lettuce, or spinach, you might want to wait until late summer to plant as we are (usually) heading into our hottest growing time in late June, July, and August. You may have missed the spring season harvest, but you have an opportunity to enjoy the vegetable in the Fall. For more information on planting for fall harvest, see the Mid-Summer Planting Guide on the University of Minnesota Extension website. It also has excellent online resources and a handy “at a glance chart” on when to plant: Planting and Growing Guides If you were not able to start seeds yourself for plants needing more growing time than we have in a Minnesota summer, you could consider buying plants from garden centers or nurseries. This will increase your chances of planting late but still successfully growing longer season plants. Flowers don’t have the same timescale on their packages, but you can gather some hints from how the package describes planting. For example, if the package directs you to start the seed inside several weeks before outdoor planting, this may be a flower that needs a longer season than we have in Minnesota. This is not a hard and fast rule, however, as Zinnia packages suggest starting seeds indoors a few weeks before planting. You can successfully direct seed Zinnias – and many other flower seeds – through late June - early July. Just a word of caution: perennials can be sold in seed packets, but will take several years to reach maturity and bloom. To learn whether the flower you want to grow is an annual or perennial, and more information about many types of flowers and flower landscapes, e.g., pollinator gardens, you can refer to - UMN Extension Flowers In the end, especially with seeds, it never hurts to try. One year, I planted sunflowers, cosmos, and zinnias on the Fourth of July – all by seed – and by mid-August, had a pollinator’s paradise and riots of color to enjoy from my deck until Fall. Planting in June is very doable and, while you might have to watch neighbors and friends enjoying their garden harvest while you wait, you will be able to eat your own home-grown vegetables – just a little later. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (2) & Mickey Scullard (1,3)

< Back No More Stringy Petunias! Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. Read this article to learn what to do to keep your beautiful petunias looking full and fluffy. Petunias! Bi-colors, tri-colors, bright colors, stripes, ruffles . . . What’s not to love? If you’ve seen petunias in July and August you know what’s not to love. Starting off full and fluffy, as the summer wears on, petunias drop their blooms, grow long and scraggly and much less lovable. So, what to do? Yank them out and put new ones in? Give up on them and replace them with a hardier plant, maybe a marigold? However, between replacing petunias and giving up on them altogether there is a third option: pruning them. Read on to learn how to prune petunias successfully. Pruning petunias will keep them full and fluffy all summer long. There is some work involved, but replacing petunias with more petunias or other flowers is also work. And not only that, it’s expensive and it involves running around to big box stores and nurseries to see if either one has any decent flowers left. In addition, pruning your petunias keeps your original design and color scheme in place and involves only minutes of work throughout the summer. To keep petunias blooming prolifically we must remember their mission, in fact the mission of all plants: to perpetuate the species. When the bloom on a petunia drops off its pod it creates a seed which will hopefully go on to create another petunia. Having accomplished its mission, the petunia dies in peace, leaving behind leggy and scraggly branches without flowers. The point of pruning is to send the opposite message to the petunia: you have not completed your mission. You have not set seed (because I have cut off all your seed pods). You must keep blooming, staying full and fluffy, until I decide to stop cutting them off (usually sometime in September, or sooner if we have an early frost). See the photo where the woman is about to cut off the pod where the bloom once grew? You must trim the petunia BEHIND THAT pod, which holds the seed, to convince the petunia she still has work to do and must continue to produce blooms. Petunias have many blooms and their seed pods often hide underneath the bottoms of branches, behind other blooming flowers. If you leave pruning them until they start to look “scraggly”, you may spend anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours pruning your petunias. It’s a tedious mission of search and destroy. There is an easier way . Buy a small pair of pointed scissors with colorful handles (so you can spot them in the soil) available at the Dollar Store or Michaels. In fact, buy one for every pot and bed of petunias if they are at some distance from each other. Stick the scissors point down into the pot or bed next to your petunias. Any time you are out in your yard inspecting or admiring your garden, check your petunias for spent blossoms and spend a minute or two cutting off the empty pods. A minute or two every day or so equals enough time to keep your petunias glorious all season. You can also prune for shape and form. If, in spite of your consistent pruning, your petunias develop leggy branches, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch in front of the new growth . You can also prune any branches that are not keeping to the design or shape you wish. Again, find a junction where there is new growth and cut off the branch right in front of it. Do this consistently and the work will be minimal. Your petunias will outdo themselves producing blooms to complete their mission and you will enjoy full and fluffy petunias all summer! References: https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/growing-petunias https://icultivate.net/how-to-prune-petunias / https://www.epicgardening.com/prune-petunias/ https://www.gardendesign.com/how-to/prune-petunias.html Photo Credits: UMN Extension (1,4 ), Susan Ball (2,3)