< Back April Gardening in Minnesota: Early Vegetables and Indigenous Crops Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener As spring arrives in Minnesota, eager gardeners can start planting cool-season vegetables outdoors. Despite our short growing season, there are many options for early crops that thrive in our zone’s climate. As spring arrives in Minnesota, eager gardeners can start planting cool-season vegetables outdoors. Despite our short growing season, there are many options for early crops that thrive in our zone’s climate. Read this article to learn what vegetables can be planted in April along with some tips to make sure the planting is successful. Cool-Season Vegetables In mid to late April, you can plant these hardy vegetables: Potatoes Onions Beets Carrots Leaf lettuce Spinach Peas Radishes Kohlrabi Turnips These crops can withstand cooler temperatures and even light frosts. For best results, wait until the soil is workable and not overly wet to prevent compaction. Indigenous Crops Consider adding these native plants to your garden: Wild leeks (ramps) Jerusalem artichokes Groundnuts Wild leeks These indigenous vegetables are well-adapted to Minnesota's climate and offer unique flavors and nutritional benefits. To prepare your soil for planting vegetables in early April in Minnesota Wait until the soil is workable. Test by squeezing a handful - if it crumbles rather than forming a ball, it's ready. Clean up winter debris from garden beds once the ground has thawed. Add 2 inches of compost or organic matter and work it into the top 6 inches of soil. This improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and increases water retention. For heavy clay soil, consider adding some sand to improve drainage. Test your soil pH and nutrient levels. Amend as needed based on test results. Loosen compacted soil using a broadfork or garden fork, being careful not to disturb soil structure. For cool-season crops like lettuce and peas, apply a light organic fertilizer to the top few inches of soil. Use raised beds or cold frames to warm the soil more quickly for earlier planting. Avoid overworking wet soil, as this can damage its structure. Wait for several days of temperatures in the 50s before thorough preparation. Gardening Tips for April in Minnesota Watch the weather: April can be unpredictable, so be prepared to protect plants from late frosts. Prepare the soil: Once the ground has thawed and dried sufficiently, add compost or organic matter to improve soil structure. Start seeds indoors: For crops like broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting outside. Use season extenders: Cold frames or hoop houses can help protect early plantings and extend your growing season. Clean up carefully: Remove winter debris slowly to protect overwintering pollinators. Wait for several days of temperatures in the 50s before thorough cleanup. By following these tips and choosing the right crops, Minnesota gardeners can get a head start on the growing season and enjoy fresh, homegrown produce earlier in the year. References: https://www.thompsonfamilyfarmmn.com/blog/2021/04/what-veggies-can-i-plant-in-april-in.html https://atthefarmwaconia.com/plants-and-planters/gardening-advice/cold-crops/ https://extension.umn.edu/news/spring-yard-and-garden-preparation https://northerngardener.org/april-garden-chores-a-careful-dance/ https://www.ramseymastergardeners.org/post/cold-hardy-vegetables-and-flowers-for-minnesota-s-short-spring https://www.jimwhitingnursery.com/garden-advice/spring-planting-tips-for-minnesota/ https://www.cbsnews.com/minnesota/news/spring-gardening-dos-and-donts-from-the-minnesota-landscape-arboretum/ https://malmborgsinc.com/blog/minnesota-gardening-guide-april/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-staple-vegetables-around-world-minnesota https://www.reddit.com/r/minnesota/comments/ua91q3/gardening_tips/ Photo credit: Itoldya test 1-getarchive (all creative commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Susan Maher, University of Wisconsin-Madison (3)

< Back Getting the Jump on Jumping Worms Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Many of us associate worms in the soil as an indicator of “good garden soil.” Unfortunately, that is not necessarily true in Minnesota these days. “Jumping worms” have become more common in local gardens recently and that is not a good thing. Read this article to understand why. My Uncle Casey was a farmer. He’d pick up a clod of dirt. Earth worms would slowly wriggle out. He’s say, “Good soil.” It’s almost become axiomatic that the presence of earthworms, mostly of the family Lumbricidae, indicates a healthy soil. Indeed worms consume leaf litter and organic material, release nutrients and help in soil aeration, altering soil structure. But they are not native. They, along with so much else, came over to North America in the 1600’s with early European settlement. For millennia the soil of our continent got along quite nicely without them. In the late 19 th Century a new genus, Amynthas spp or “jumping worms” arrived from East Asia on imported plants or other agricultural materials. They have made their way from the Northeast into the Midwest, first appearing in Minnesota and Wisconsin over the last 10 to 20 years. Unlike their relatively benign cousins, they have caused quite a lot of damage to the soils they have colonized. Like other invasive species, they take over. They invade the first 4 to 8 inches of soil muscling out other worms. Jumping worms consume both living and dead plant material at accelerated rates and change the soil to give it a “coffee grounds-like” texture, which can severely stunt or kill plants. A jumping worm ( Amynthas spp) with characteristic cream-colored “collar” (clitellum). So how do you know if you have them? As their name implies, jumping worms are very active in comparison to other earthworms. They wriggle around vigorously. They also have a distinctive cream-colored band about a third of the way down their bodies. About the only other worm you might confuse them with is the night crawler. A really nifty app called iNaturalist can help in identification. A species of jumping worm (Amynthas agrestis) with a dead ladyslipper plant. Jumping worms change the soil and give it the granulated look of coffee grounds. What do you do if you have them? Don’t despair. Some plants will succumb but others seem to tolerate jumping worms. You definitely want to remove and destroy any jumping worms you come across. Pop them in a resealable plastic bag and put them in the trash. Don’t spread them around your property. Carting infested soil from place to place should be avoided. They are annuals, laying eggs in leaf detritus in the fall, so be careful what you do with raked leaves. Above all, spread the word. You can report jumping worm infestations to the Great Lakes Early Detection Network ( www.gledn.org ). This is an organization which tracks invasive species around the Great Lakes and provides information to municipalities and individuals. If in doubt, report. They will verify. There’s a GLEDN app for either Apple or Google on which you can do this. What can you do to reduce the chances of getting jumping worms in your garden? Be careful of any horticultural products you bring into the garden. Soils, mulch, compost, potted plants all are potential sources of the worms. If you are thinking about trying vermiculture, be very careful that you don’t buy misidentified worms. If you have a fisherman in the family make sure he disposes unused worms in a sealed bag in the trash, not in the lake or on the shore. Want to learn more? Use this link to the University of Minnesota Extension. At present there is no known means of eradicating jumping worms, so vigilance is essential! Photo credits: Josef Gorres, University of Vermont. (1, 2, 3)

< Back Get to Know our Minnesota State Bee Susan Light, Dakota County Master Gardener Did you know that the Minnesota state bee is the rusty patched bumble bee? This designation is intended raise awareness about the role of pollinators in Minnesota’s environment and preserving their habitats. Unfortunately, while historically, our state bee appeared widely in North America, it is now on the endangered list. In this article read more about the rusty patched bumble bee and the important role that you can play in Garden Scavenger Hunt preservation efforts. Our state bee, the rusty patched bumble bee (Bombas affinis) is disappearing just as we are getting to know it. Historically, the rusty patched bumble bee was broadly distributed across the eastern United States and upper midwest, as well as in southern Quebec and Ontario Canada. In 2017 the federal government listed it as endangered because their numbers had dramatically declined. There are still pockets of the rusty patched bee in Minnesota and Wisconsin and a few other states. There have been a good number of them reported by citizen scientists in and around the Twin Cities since they were listed as endangered. August and September is a good time to look for the rusty patched foraging worker bees. The exact cause of the decline is unknown, but evidence suggests an interaction between an introduced pathogen and exposure to pesticides, specifically insecticides and fungicides. Habitat loss and degradation also play an important role. As bumble bee habitats become increasingly fragmented due to urban development, the size of each population diminishes and inbreeding becomes more prevalent. Inbred populations of bumble bees show decreased genetic diversity and increased risk of decline. The rusty patched bumble bee is a social species with an annual cycle that starts in early spring when colonies are initiated by solitary queens that emerge from overwintering sites. The queen bee is the only bee that survives the winter. The cycle progresses with the production of workers throughout the summer, and ends with the production of males and new queens in late summer and early fall. Survival of the rusty patched bee and other bumble bee species require food (pollen and nectar) from abundant floral resources from April through October, undisturbed nesting habitat near floral resources and overwintering habitat for the next year’s queens. Two features distinguish the rusty patched bumble from other bumble bees: The rusty patched has a rust or brown or orange colored patch on the second segment of the abdomen going about halfway back. The hairs on the first segment are yellow. The other segments are covered with black hair. The hairs on the thorax of the rusty patched are yellow with a T-shaped area of black hairs. The rusty patched bumble bee is unique among North American bumble bees in that the queens have a different color pattern than the workers. The queens, which are usually only seen in the spring and fall, do not have a rusty patch or a black thumb-tack on their thorax. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service finalized the recovery plan for the rusty patched bumble bee in 2021. Recovery and conservation of this bumble bee isn’t possible without partners. Municipalities and private property owners play a crucial role in conservation efforts. You can play an important role. Provide habitat - Rusty patched bumble bee nests are typically 1 to 4 feet underground in abandoned rodent nests or other mammal burrows. Leave some small areas in your yard bare for the queen bees to start their nest in the spring. Don’t use pesticides if you want to encourage bumble bees to nest in your yard. Plan your garden to provide a diversity of native plants so you will have flowers that bloom during spring, summer and fall. For example, In the spring, the queen bee emerges to look for nectar and pollen from flowers like virginia bluebells, blood root, wild geraniums, golden alexander and pussy willow. She will search for a nest close to a diversity of food resources. Some summer flowering plants that support rusty patched workers are large beardtongue, slender beardtongue, hyssop, spiderwort, figwort, and butterfly milkweed. In the fall, the star flowers are goldenrods and asters. For more information on this endangered bee and other Minnesota native bees, go to the terrific new website bees mn.org There you will find close up photos of all the MN native bees, to help you ID them in your yard or nearby park. You’ll learn about the flowers they use, their nests, and life cycles. You can also find out how you can be involved in the MN State Bee conservation initiatives. Photo Credits : iNaturalist (1), www.fws.gov (2), University of Minnesota BeeLab (3)

< Back Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Click on this link to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. Did you know that Americans spend roughly 90% of their time, on average, indoors according to US EPA report? As a gardener, perhaps it’s time we focus on our indoor space and the benefits and types of plants we could have indoors. Read on to learn more about Indoor Allergen Friendly Plants. I thought this article would be simple to write, but as it turns out, it is a much more complicated topic than I thought. Many gardeners understand the psychological benefits of having living plants around us. According to the American Horticultural Society, indoor plants can improve air quality through air purification, reduce stress, improve productivity, and bring beauty to your home. However, some people who have asthma or other lung conditions need to choose what type of plant, if any, is best for them. If you are concerned about allergens in your home, potted plants can be a challenge as the soil, if not properly watered, can create mold. Mold is created in soil from overwatering with limited air circulation and not enough sunlight. The Mayo Clinic suggested that if you do have potted plants in your home, you can put aquarium gravel over the dirt to contain any mold that could develop. Removing dust from your plants periodically also helps with allergies. Flowering plants can also be a challenge for people with airborne allergens. In my research I discovered the Ogren Plant Allergy Scale System (OPALS). It is a standard which considers the likelihood a plant will cause pollen allergy symptoms. Plants are ranked on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the most allergenic. This system can be used for trees, shrubs, and other plants (indoors and outdoors). While researching, I did discover that there were many lists to cross reference and it was confusing as some of the lists said they were allergen friendly and other lists said they were not. So, I am including some of the most common plants that showed up on multiple lists realizing that this is a limited list. There are some colorful plants that produce pollens which are heavier and stickier. These plants will be less likely to cause irritants. Another suggestion is to consider cross referencing this list with a plant list that can cause skin rash sensitivities or are harmful to pets. Snake Plant (also called Mother-In-Law Tongue) Peace Lily Parlor Palm Areca Palm Lady Palm Bamboo Palm Dracaena Golden Pothos Dragon Tree (also called Marginata) Rubber Plant Philodendron Brasil Aloe Vera and other Succulents Horsehead Philodendron Dumb cane String of Pearls So, if you have been avoiding houseplants because of concern about allergies, know that there are houseplants out there that can provide the greenery, color and other benefits of houseplants this winter. Reference: “Healthy Living: How a Lab Founded with Mayo Clinic is Fine-tuning the Indoors”. By Liv Martin, September 13, 2021; Minnesota Monthly. https://ahsgardening.org “The Joys and Benefits of Indoor Gardening” Mayo Clinic website: “Allergy-proof your home” By Mayo Clinic Staff House Digest, “15 Best Houseplants for People with Allergies” by Kailen Skewis, October 16, 2022 Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America, “Smart Gardening: Tips for an Allergy-Friendly Garden”, AAFA Community Services, 4/18/18 Good Housekeeping, “10 Best Indoor Plants for your Health According to Research”, by Erica Sweeney, Juley 29, 2022 https://zyrtec.com/indoors “5 .“Best Allergy Friendly House Plants” Https://plantify.co.za Https://flonase.com/allergies , “Best and Worst Indoor Plants for Allergies” Photo Credit: Commons.wikimedia.org-Creative Commons (1), Gardening.stackexchange.com-Creative Commons (2), www.flickr.com-Creative Commons (3)

< Back A Versatile Understory Tree: Eastern Redbud Jim Lakin introduces us to another stunning, not-too-big tree native to Minnesota – the Eastern Redbud. This lovely specimen welcomes spring with rosy-pink pea like flowers and ends the growing season with large, heart shaped yellow leaves. It would make a lovely addition to your garden. Read on to learn more. Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Last month we talked about one lovely understory (i.e. not too big) tree, the Serviceberry. Another stunner that you might consider is the Eastern Redbud. Eastern Redbud ( Cercis canadensis ) is a small, graceful tree native to the eastern and central United States. It is one of the first natives to bloom in the spring when it presents a stunning display of rosy-pink pea like flowers that bloom close to the branches and even on the trunk. The result is a spectacular springtime show. The leaves that follow are large and heart shaped, assuming a clear yellow color in the fall. As Cercis canadensis is a member of the pea family its fruits are brown to black pods, typical of the Fabaceae or legume family. If you are considering a Redbud, you should plan on planting in the spring, probably in mid to late May here in Minnesota. It grows best in full to part sunlight in a moist well-drained soil. It is pretty tolerant of both acid and alkaline soils and is hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 9. The Eastern Redbud can grow to 20 to 30 feet tall with about a 25-foot spread. It has a tendency to form multiple trunks, so if you are going for a single one, some pruning will be necessary. In planning your placement, redbud makes a great specimen, patio or lawn tree. If you plant daffodils or tulips around it, they will bloom at approximately the same time and put on a really impressive show. In case you’re thinking Eastern Redbud is too good to be true, it isn’t. It’s a relatively short-lived tree, about 20 years. It is also susceptible to several pests including leaf spot and verticillium wilt. The latter can be controlled with deep-root watering, careful pruning and fertilization. Deer and rabbits love redbud as much as we do, so it is best to apply plastic trunk guards for the first two to three years until established. On the plus side they do attract hummingbirds and a number of butterflies as would be expected from a native perennial. Caring for your Eastern Redbud should include regular watering, about once a week to 2 to 3 inches especially in the first two years. A good thick mulch helps, but keep the mulch about 1 to 2 inches away from the trunk. Fertilization requirements are usually light. A soil test can help to determine if there are any deficiencies. As we said redbuds do well in full sun to part shade. However, you should avoid placing the tree in a real scorcher of a location as they do better with a bit of shade in excessively hot environments. Thus, with a little bit of care your Eastern Redbud will become established and richly reward you each spring. Photo Credit: Penn State Extension (1), www.messersmith.name (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Lilacs Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener It’s getting exciting out there! Spring has sprung, the snow has melted, and the rain is bringing us much needed moisture to help our lawns green up and our plants to bloom. One of the most anticipated early blooming shrubs are the fragrant lilacs which come in colors from white to pink to lavender. This article will tell you what you need to know about planting, pruning and some common lilac diseases. PLANTING There are several different varieties of lilacs which bloom at various times from April to mid-May, mid to late May, and May to September. They typically bloom for 10-14 days depending on the weather. Lilacs make great hedges, foundation plants and large borders. Once established they can live a very long time. Our lilac bushes lived for over 50+ years until we made the tough decision to remove them. Lilacs thrive in full sun and well drained soil high in organic matter. Too much shade reduces flowering and can increase powdery mildew. Proper spacing increases air circulation and helps prevent diseases. Two to three years after the plant is established, start fertilizing lilacs every few years with an all-purpose shrub fertilizer. New plantings grow fast when young but may take a few years to bloom. In order to ensure repeating blooms in the following year, prune lilacs immediately after blooming. This link will take you to a video from the University of Minnesota - Extension Morris on planting lilacs. DISEASES Lilacs are subject to several different diseases: · Fungal disease causes yellowing/browning of the leaves that will die back. · Lilac borers will cause sawdust, sap and frass (powdery refuse). For more information on lilac borers go to https://content.ces.nssu.edu (North Carolina Extension). · Verticillium Wilt is caused by two fungi and has no cure for this disease. · Lilac Pseudocercospora (leaf spot) . · Herbicide damage causes cupping/browning on one side of the plant and not the other. DISEASE MANAGEMENT Use proper plant care such as watering, mulching and fertilizing to help prevent disease. If you find lilac disease you can try various methods to help the shrub. You can try pruning the diseased areas out of the shrub. Remove the leaves that have fallen so they don’t keep reinfecting the shrub. Watch the plant the following year for permanent damage. If you are unsure what disease is plaguing your lilac shrub, you can send a sample to the U of M Plant Disease Clinic to be properly diagnosed. Another option, if the shrub disease is out of control, is to cut it down to the stump. Most likely, it will shoot regrowth. We did this to our backyard lilacs and the bushes came back beautifully. One last option, which we did with the assistance of a certified arborist, is to remove the diseased plants. We tried to prune out the dead and diseased branches but they looked horrible afterwards. So, we made the difficult decision to remove them all. Now on to replacing the big empty spot. Photo credits: University of Minnesota ( 1, 2, 3, 6, 7), City of Edmonton (4), Wisconsin Horticulture Extension (5)

< Back Garden Myths Exposed Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Myths abound in the gardening world. The internet provides limitless information, but is it reliable? Or is it a myth that has floated around for so long it has become accepted as fact? To save your time, effort and money, make sure that the advice you read is research-based from a dependable source. In this article, we review several gardening practices and reveal which ones are based on science or myth. Myths abound in the gardening world. The internet provides limitless information, but is it reliable? Or is it a myth that has floated around for so long it has become accepted as fact? To save your time, effort and money, make sure that the advice you read is research-based from a dependable source. In the Garden Buzz, we support research-based information from reliable sources like the Minnesota and other state Extension Services, all of which are supported by the research universities in their state. Departments of Natural Resources, which also exist in every state, are another reliable source of science-based information. In this article, we review several gardening practices and reveal which ones are based on science or myth. MOTHBALLS KEEP RABBITS OUT OF THE GARDEN False - Through a process called sublimation, mothballs slowly convert from a solid into a gas that repels moths, not rabbits or other undesirable wildlife. Using mothballs in a way not specified by the label is also illegal and can harm people, pets, and the environment. PLACING GRAVEL OR POT SHARDS IN THE BOTTOM OF A PLANT CONTAINER WILL INCREASE DRAINAGE False - Rocks or shards in the bottom of pots can block or restrict water drainage because they reduce the size of the drainage hole. Water has difficulty moving from fine-grained soil (such as potting mix) to coarser material (such as gravel or pot shards). The water must saturate the fine-grained material before moving on. The best course is to fill the entire pot with high-quality planting mix. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) LAWNS ARE LOW MAINTENCE False - Lawns are maintenance hogs. To keep your lawn looking good, you must water, mow, fertilize, edge, aerate, and weed. And that's just the beginning. You will also need to trap underground varmints, repair sprinkler heads, (assuming you have a sprinkler system - worse if you don’t - hauling out the hose and repositioning your sprinkler is time consuming and guaranteed to drench you) and seed or patch bare spots. That sound you hear? It's your shrubs laughing at all the time you spend babying that water-guzzling grass. Moral: plant more shrubs or replace your grass with ground cover. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) CRACKING AN EGG UNDER YOUR TOMATO PLANT SUPPLIES NEEDED NUTRIENTS Maybe but not the best practice - Some people bury whole eggs or crushed eggshells in the soil when planting tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot. The theory is that the eggs provide extra calcium to the plants. While some gardeners swear by this method, scientific evidence does not support its effectiveness. While the calcium from eggshells will eventually leach into the soil, it may take some time to break down completely. Whole eggs buried in the soil could also attract pests like rodents or raccoons who may dig up your plants to access the eggs . Instead, focus on overall soil health. Healthy soil, rich in organic matter and beneficial microbes, will provide a much more consistent and reliable source of nutrients for your tomato plants. (University of Minnesota Extension; University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) SOAP WILL KILL GARDEN PESTS True and false - Dish soap can kill small, soft-bodied insects like aphids and white flies but does nothing for insects with hard shells, like Japanese beetles. To be effective, the soapy water needs to not only to touch the insect but also coat the insect's body. This means turning over leaves to reach insects on the underside of leaves. (MN Extension Service; Colorado State University Extension) aphids on underside of leaves Mole crickets and caterpillars hide deep in turf and are difficult to detect. Drenching a small area of turf with soapy water can irritate the pests and cause them to temporarily surface where they can be identified, counted and treated. (Source: FL Extension Service) ADDING COFFEE GROUNDS TO YOUR SOIL HELPS ACIDIFY IT False - Fresh coffee grounds are acidic, but used coffee grounds are not. They're neutral. Therefore, adding your used coffee grounds won't change your soil pH. A better idea is to add used grounds to the compost pile. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) WILTING LEAVES ALWAYS INDICATE THAT A PLANT NEEDS WATER False – There are other reasons that plant leaves wilt, so it’s worth exploring other causes before soaking your plant in water. In fact, wilting leaves could be due to waterlogged soil (which deprives roots of oxygen). Overly moist soil can also promote fungal disease. Certain bacteria may also cause leaf wilt. Another reason leaves wilt is animal damage to the roots. Gophers and nematodes feed on roots. Other animals may create tunnels under your plants that reduce root contract with the soil. Additional reasons for wilting leaves are over fertilizing or excess salt in the soil. (University of Minnesota Extension, University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) GRASS CLIPPINGS LEFT ON THE LAWN CAUSE THATCH False - Thatch is a layer of grass stems and roots, living and dead organic matter that settles on the grass or ground. Excessive thatch, over a half-inch thick, creates an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots. They cause the lawn to grow very rapidly, inhibiting the decomposition of organic matter at ground level. Lawn clippings are often erroneously blamed for thatch buildup. Lawn clippings are very high in water content and rapidly break down. Overwatering and over-fertilizing have more to do with the buildup of thatch. (University of CA Marin Co. Master Gardeners) MEXICAN PETUNIA IS INVASIVE: DON’T PLANT IT! Maybe - It is true that native Mexican petunia is invasive and nearly impossible to get rid of once it invades. However, three non-invasive cultivars have been developed by the University of Florida and are sold as cultivars 'Mayan Purple’, 'Mayan White' and 'Mayan Pink’. And the sterile cultivar ‘Purple Showers’, taller and larger than its invasive relative, is available at big box stores. (Source: FL Extension Service) Note : All these cultivars are treated as annuals in Minnesota. In conclusion, when you come across advice that is not footnoted, or comes from a dubious source, it is always worth checking with your local extension service or a reliable research source. That will save you time, effort and money if the advice you have received turns out to be a myth. Click here for the University of Minnesota Extension website. References “Coming Clean on Soap in the Garden, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/coming-clean-soap-garden . “Living with Nature and Nuisance Animal,” https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/livingwith_wildlife/index.html “Managing Mexican Petunia (Ruellia Simplex C. Wright) in the Home Landscape,” https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP498 “Managing Plant Pests with Soaps,” https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/IN1248 “Mothballs: Regulation, Proper Uses, and Alternatives;” National Pesticide Information Center, http://npic.orst.edu/ingred/ptype/mothball/regulation.html University of Minnesota Extension; https://extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/coffee-grounds-eggshells-epsom-salts Becky Peterson, “Cracking an egg under a tomato plant.” Ms. Peterson is a Dakota County Master Gardener. UC Marin Master Gardeners; https://marinmg.ucanr.edu/BASICS/GARDEN_MYTHS_BUSTED/ Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2,4), www.invasive.org (3)

< Back Earth Month is for Everyone! Kasha Zeman, Dakota County Master Gardener It is now April and that means EARTH MONTH! While many of us think about growing, planting, tending, and gardening all year long, if you are like me, that doesn’t always include water conservation, energy conservation, cleaning up my neighborhood, etc. The month of Earth Month is a reminder that we can do better to help preserve and cherish planet Earth. For the little ones in our lives, it is never too early (or too late) to teach them how to become better caretakers of mother nature. Please read on to find activities to do with the young people in your life during the month of April (and the other 11 months too!). April is Earth Month, but how did it become Earth Month? Actually, it didn’t start as Earth Month. It started as Earth Day. In 1970, a senator by the name of Gaylord Nelson, knowing there weren’t laws in the United States to protect the earth’s resources, created awareness about the issue. It was decided that in April of 1970 people in the United States were going to gather and have demonstrations about the deterioration of earth’s resources and the need for protection of our air, water, trees, animals, land etc. On April 22, 1970, over twenty million people across the nation participated in the first ever Earth Day. People at colleges, universities, high schools, middle schools, elementary schools, and communities gathered to address the importance of protecting the Earth. From then on, we have celebrated Earth Day every April 22. But, as we know, this has grown to into celebrating Earth Month every April! Earth Month Activities There are so many activities that can be done to help improve and conserve Earth’s resources. This article is going to focus on a few specific things for us to do with the kids in our lives by conserving water, conserving energy, planting trees, and cleaning up garbage. Conserving water Water is one of our most precious resources. Even though about seventy percent of the earth’s surface is covered by water, only about three percent is fresh water. Of that three percent of fresh water, only about one percent of that water can be used as drinking water. Depending on the age of the children in your lives, percentages can be very abstract and hard to understand. So, try this activity with them. Gather 100 rocks, pebbles, acorns, pinecones, crayons…really anything small and easy to collect. Explain that these 100 items represent Earth’s surface. Then count out 30 items and set them off to one side. Explain that these thirty items are the ground we stand on, the trees we see, the buildings we shop in, the schools we attend, the parks we play at, etc. Then show the remaining 70 items. Explain that these 70 items represent the rest of earth’s surface, and it is all water! Even though it is water, most of it isn’t fresh water. Explain that there is a difference between fresh water and salt water. Depending on your comfort level, you may even add a bit of table salt to a glass of water and have everyone try a small sip to see how undrinkable it is. Next, of those remaining 70 items, remove three. Explain that out of those 70 items, these three represent the only fresh water we have on earth, the lakes and rivers we enjoy swimming and fishing in. Finally, remove one item and explain that this one item represents the only drinkable water we have on Earth. Because there is so little drinkable water on Earth, that is why it is so precious and why we need to conserve it. Ways to Conserve Water Turn off the faucet while washing hands and brushing teeth. Take quick showers. No more than 5 minutes. When rinsing dishes, don’t turn the faucet on full strength. Use rain barrels for watering plants and flowers outdoors. If you are a homeowner and don’t already have a rain barrel, Dakota County has information regarding how you can build your own through this link . If you would like a rain barrel, but do not want to build your own, you can purchase one at a discounted price, while supplies last, from the Recycling Association of Minnesota . (They sell compost bins too! Conserving Energy In an ideal world we would all use energy produced only by the sun, wind, and water. But until that becomes more economically possible for all of us, here are a few simple ways to conserve energy. Turn off lights whenever you leave a room. Regarding your house temperature, turn your thermostat off whenever the weather is comfortable and open your windows. During the winter months, turn the thermostat down to a lower temperature at night. During the summer months, turn the thermostat up a few degrees. Even a few degrees makes a big difference! Close the blinds during really hot and really cold days. This will keep your air conditioner and furnace from having to work constantly. Ride your bike to school and work. Plan to have to leave a bit early and come home a little later. You will save on gas money and get exercise too! This next one is one of my favorite energy conserving activities to do with my own kid - have a light and electronics free day! When we have one of those rare days where no one has any planned activities, we sometimes have a light and electronics free day. We don’t turn on any overhead lights or lamps. You won’t be able to avoid a completely light free day because of the refrigerator, microwave, oven, garage door, etc. However, we unplug what we can and put tape over all the light switches, in case we forget. We tuck our iPads, laptops, and phones away, and prepare for a day outdoors and playing games by candlelight. Planting Trees Planting trees is a great way to help the environment and create cleaner air. An average 50-year-old mature tree can produce enough oxygen for 4 people to breathe a year! In addition, trees take in greenhouse gases and remove particle matter from our air. So, not only do we get oxygen from trees, but they also remove toxins that are unhealthy for us. Trees also provide shade and can help to reduce energy costs that come from using air conditioners in the summer. You can purchase trees from local greenhouses in various sizes and species. Often around Arbor Day, which is Friday, April 26 th this year, many organizations will give away free tree seedlings. Also, if you have a large area for which you are looking to plant trees, seedlings may be purchased in bulk - 50 seedlings per order from the Arbor Day Foundation . In addition, if you are part of an organization such as a school, library or youth group you can sign your organization up with “Neighborhood Forest.” This organization provides free tree seedlings to children. Once the organization is registered, parents can sign their kiddos up to get a free seedling. Cleaning up Garbage When I was in elementary school, we had a student group called the Green Team. One thing our students organized, was a school-wide community clean up. The teachers, volunteers, and students went out with gloves and garbage bags and cleaned up trash in our community. This is an easy activity for a family or a neighborhood to do together. Afterward, you can recycle anything that is allowed at your local recycling center and throw away the rest. Most times, when my family takes our dog for a walk, we bring a bag with us and pick up trash as we go. Community clean-up doesn’t have to be once a year or just in the month of April. We can all, including our children, participate in making our environment cleaner and healthier. April – Earth Month – is the perfect time to inspire your children - and yourselves! Resources https://www.nature.org/en-us/what-we-do/our-priorities/build-healthy-cities/cities-stories/benefits-of-trees-forests/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncWvBhD_ARIsAEb2HW9Trl1lPBpLAgcSGf1wG1iA5BEswP_MZMQSoin46BvbaRKXjAw3ld4aAn8iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/forestry/nursery/pricelist.html https://www.neighborhoodforest.org/ https://www.epa.gov/history/epa-history-earth-day#:~:text=There%20were%20no%20legal%20or,U.S.%20cities%2C%20and%20it%20worked ! https://www.epa.gov/archive/epa/aboutepa/earth-day-70-what-it-meant.html https://www.co.dakota.mn.us/Environment/WaterResources/Stormwater/Pages/rain-barrels.aspx https://recycleminnesota.org/compost-bins-rain-barrels/ Photo Credit: Flickr (1,3,4), Picryl (2)

< Back Grow Pear Trees Successfully In Your Back Yard Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Pear trees can be just as easy if not easier to grow than apples! Find out how in this article. I am sorry to report that Partridges are a mostly ground-dwelling bird, so you’ll likely not see any in your trees. www.allaboutbirds.org Do partridges occur in pear trees? Around this time of year we do receive a spike in sightings of partridges in pear trees, although curiously there never seems to be more than one individual reported per pear tree. Both partridges and pear trees are Old World species that have been introduced into North America, which means that th Pears originated in central Asia and have spread around the world. They have been hybridized to survive in hardiness zones 4-8, although some can tolerate zone 3. The blossoms will die if there is a spring freeze of 24F°. Pear trees can be up to 40’ tall, but there are some semi-dwarfing rootstocks that will result in a 15-20’ tree. Most pears fruit on spurs. Spurs form on wood that is two years or older. Fruit buds are fat and furry, leaf buds are slender and smooth. Fruiting spur Pear trees will do reasonably well in a wide range of soil types, although they don’t like wet feet. Pear trees require full sunlight all day long. You will need two varieties of pears for optimum pollination. “Summer Crisp” and “Patton” work well together; both have a certain amount of disease resistance and are hardy here. Fire-blight is the most serious disease and should be pruned out to a minimum of 6” below the disease. The pests that can attack pear trees are rabbits and voles (winter bark damage), deer (browsing and antler rubbing). Japanese beetles feed on pear leaves, but not to damaging levels. This link includes planting instructions: https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-pears Pruning is just cuts and consequences. A plant can be pruned at any time of year – you’ll just get different consequences. Begin pruning a pear tree in late winter before the buds begin to swell. Earlier pruning encourages water sprouts and suckering in spring and summer and also increases the chances of winter injury to the pruning sites. Summer pruning of fruit trees controls excess growth on a tree by removing energy-wasting water sprouts. Summer is also a good time to remove leafy upper branches that excessively shade fruit on lower branches. https://extension.psu.edu/pruning-apples-and-pears-in-home-fruit-plantings A few weeks after pruning, new growth will be vigorous and can have very narrow crotch angles. To prevent this, you need to force the new shoots to a more horizontal growth pattern. If a limb is not spread, as in the picture to the left, a bark inclusion can develop, i.e. the bark of the trunk and the branch grow together. This weakens the branch and can be an entry point for disease. Weak branch angle with bark inclusion A wide-angled branch, results in a stronger branch that can carry future heavy crops. Limb spreaders improve the tree shape and form strong crotch angles. Young branches can be clothes pinned, tied or weighted down. Spreaders can be either short pieces of wood with sharpened nails driven into each end or sharpened metal rods. Spreaders should remain in place until the branch "stiffens up" (1-2 years). Strong branch angle The summer after the first winter pruning, remove any water sprouts that grow on a heavily pruned tree. Water sprouts grow around pruning cuts. If you use pruning shears, you never quite get the entire shoot. Instead, pull the shoots off the trunk and major side branches, shoots can be pulled off safely throughout the season as long as their bases remain tender and green. Heading cuts shorten a limb or shoot. This removes the terminal bud that normally stops shoot development from buds closer to the trunk. This also causes several shoots to develop near the cut, which results in a thicker, denser canopy and reduced light levels. A thinning cut removes an entire shoot or branch back to its point of origin. Thinning cuts do not induce excessive vigorous regrowth and will open the tree to allow more sun inside the interior. Harvest and Storage Pears should be harvested while they are still firm and green. Some pears rot from the inside out, if they ripen on the tree. For best results, find out the approximate maturity time for the cultivar, watch for a slight color change from a darker to a lighter shade of green, and check fruit size. Store mature pears in the refrigerator, then ripen at room temperature for up to a week before eating or canning. Pears bruise easily, so, handle carefully when picking and storing! https://extension.unh.edu/resource/growing-fruits-growing-pears-home-orchard-fact-sheet Happy growing and check out the many wonderful pear recipes found on the internet! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare

< Back Junior Spring Garden Detectives Mary Gadek, Master Gardener CALLING ALL JUNIOR SPRING GARDEN DETECTIVES! Do you know a child who has wondered how we know it is finally spring in Minnesota? After the long, cold days of our Minnesota’s winter, every child eagerly awaits the arrival of warm breezes, extended daylight and splashable puddles of spring. Help that child become a Junior Spring Garden Detective by gathering clues, using some scientific observations and then searching outside to solve this mystery of spring’s arrival. Calling all Junior Spring Garden Detectives! Let’s find out what the clues are to prove spring has arrived in Minnesota. Once the clues are known, pull on your rain boots and head outside to observe the evidence of spring revealed in plants, trees and creatures in our yards and parks. By using your senses of sight, hearing, touch, smell and taste, you can solve the mystery of whether or not spring is here. CLUES Have you ever noticed how plants and animals suddenly emerge outside seemingly out of nowhere this time of year? The clues for the sudden change to spring are based on the fact that every plant needs air, light, water, nutrients and usually soil. When the plants appear, so do animals and other creatures. With nutrients in the soil present, look for the three clues for the presence of spring: Air. As spring begins, the Minnesota air temperatures increase from a chilly March average of 40.6’ F to a pleasant 70.1’ F in May. The warm air in turn gently heats up the ground where plants have been hiding all winter. Light. Spring brings longer days allowing our yards to bask in much needed sunlight. Daylight increases by a total of approximately 2 hours from February to May. Water. A Minnesota spring means the start of more rainfall. The month of May averages 3.24 inches of rain, in comparison to February’s rainfall average of a mere .79 inches. EVIDENCE Head outside to your yard or local park to find the clues of spring: warmer air, longer days and a puddle or two to splash with your boots! What evidence do you observe that the clues have encouraged spring to arrive? Plants. The mild air temperatures, longer days and spring showers push plants to grow through the warmed soil to receive even more warmth and light. Look for spring flowers, such as tulips, daffodils, creeping phlox, to display their bright and colorful blooms. Trees. Trees and bushes bud out gradually to appear on branches. Some trees and bushes, like magnolias, lilacs and forsythia, burst open their blossoms for a showy display around your neighborhood. Creatures. The arrival of spring invites the creatures in your yard to return from fall migration to the south, emerge from safe winter spots or awake from hibernation. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks and the loon, trek back north to join the Minnesota skies in the spring. Butterflies, like the monarch, take a long two stage journey north after wintering in Mexico. https://journeynorth.org/projects Other animals, insects and birds remained in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or hunkering down under brush and evergreens. Now, they are venturing out for food found in the newly grown seeds and plants and the worms wiggling around in the warmed soil. With the food sources plentiful and more protective places to live, birds and animals mate during late winter or early spring. By the time their babies are born, Minnesota spring is in full swing. SOLVE Want to prove that spring has sprung in your Minnesota yard or park? Use the worksheet below to observe for a week if the three clues of spring are present and then gather evidence to prove that spring is really here! To reinforce the information from this article and to learn more about the concepts, here are some additional resources to explore: Follow the monarch migration: https://journeynorth.org/projects No Mow May: https://beelab.umn.edu/no-mow-may Book recommendation: Goodbye Winter, Hello Spring by Kenard Pak is a beautifully illustrated children’s book exhibiting the season of winter slowly turning into spring. Borrow from the Dakota County Library ( ISBN: 9781250151728) or buy at Amazon CITATIONS https://cdn.agclassroom.org/mn/edu/garden/guide.pdf https://www.rssweather.com/climate/Minnesota/Minneapolis-St.Paul/ https://gml.noaa.gov/grad/solcalc/table.php?lat=39.833&lon=-98.583&year=2023 https://www.minnesotanorthwoods.com/minnesota-is-for-the-birds-spring-bird-migration/ http://www.minnesotaseasons.com/Insects/monarch.html https://www.monarchnet.org/spring-migration-ecology https://journeynorth.org/projects https://beelab.umn.edu/no-mow-may JUNIOR SPRING GARDEN DETECTIVES For a week in May, observe whether the three spring clues are present and if there is enough evidence to show that spring has sprung. Use your senses of sight, hear, touch, smell and taste to collect the evidence. Sun Mon Tues Wed Thurs Fri Sat Clues Air Temp (mid day) Daylight (# hours between sunrise/set) Water/Rain **After completing the chart, ask if your findings show increased warmth, increased daylight time and some presence of rain (might be over a few weeks). If so, you know that spring is likely here in Minnesota. Collect evidence to support the spring clues, by heading outdoors to answer the following questions and using some of your senses: Do you see more birds, animals, butterflies and other creatures when you are outside? List what you see here. Do you hear birds chirping, animals chattering or insects buzzing when outside? Record what you hear here. Can you touch newly grown buds, leaves, blossoms and plants that have appeared in recent days/weeks? Jot down what you can touch. Can you smell the fragrances of new blossoms or new plants or the smell of the soil after a rainfall? Describe what you smell here. Do you see any creatures tasting the new buds, blossoms, seeds and leaves? Report what you observe here. Congratulations! You have solved the question of whether or not spring has arrived in Minnesota. You are now an official Junior Spring Garden Detective! Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3,4) & Book Jacket (5)

< Back Tomatoes: What to do Now for Luscious Tomatoes This Summer Tomatoes are one of the most home-grown crop; probably because there is nothing like that big bite or slice of that juicy, delicious red ball. But many enthusiastic home gardeners find themselves frustrated or disappointed in their tomato crop. This article explains gardening practices that you can adopt to increase the chances of producing happy, healthy tomato plants in your yard. Michelle Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Many people eagerly await that first bite of homegrown tomatoes every summer. And that first succulent bite is achieved by the work you do now, early in the summer. First, it is not too late to plant tomatoes, but at this point, you will need to purchase plants if you did not start your own. Whether you choose an heirloom or a modern variety (often bred to decrease susceptibility to disease and other unfavorable traits) is a personal preference. One approach to choosing might be to get a variety you have grown before and a variety new to you. Some other characteristics you may want to consider relate to the disease resistance of the tomato plant. Plants marked with “F, FF, FFF” are resistant to fusarium diseases, while a “V” indicates resistance to Verticillium Wilt. A plant marked with “VF” is resistant to fusarium and verticillium wilts. A plant labeled with “EB” is resistant to Early Blight. If you choose a tomato that does not indicate that it has been developed with resistance to different tomato diseases, you’ll want to implement some good, basic gardening practices to decrease the risk of losing your tomato crop. Choose a tomato with a sturdy stem that is at least a pencil width. Make sure there are no spotted leaves as that may be an indicator of disease. Leaves should be spaced closely together. There are two main types of tomatoes; determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are bushy and generally do not need pruning, staking, or trellising. The top, also called terminal point, ends with flowers and fruit. They grow to about 24 – 30 inches tall and produce fruits within a 4 to 6-week period. They may be best for container grown tomatoes. Most tomato plants are Indeterminate and they are vining. They do need support to keep their leaves and tomatoes off the ground, allow for air flow, and reduce the risk of diseases. The terminal point keeps growing as the plant grows. Tomatoes grow along the branches, and they will produce fruit until it gets too cold. Stake or trellis plants immediately when you plant them. Good tomato gardening practices start with ensuring good soil. You want rich loamy soil that drains well. If you don’t know what kind of soil, you can do a soil test from the University of Minnesota and add amendments such as fertilizer or other missing nutrients. The next critical step is to not plant your tomatoes in the same place every year. You need to rotate them to different areas in your garden, if at all possible. This helps decrease the threat of diseases that remain in the soil. It is recommended to wait three to four years before planting tomatoes again in that spot. Make sure you space your tomatoes a sufficient distance apart. You can find that information on the seed package or the plant tag. Dig a hole deep enough to place the whole container part of the plant and remove lower leaves and branches so they aren’t touching the soil. If you have a slightly crooked plant, you can actually dig the hole even deeper so the above ground part is the straight part. The tomato will actually grow roots from the stem that is underground. Consistent watering is critical to prevent “blossom end rot” (where the tomato has a black bottom), as is an adequate amount of calcium. You can find products in the store that you may want to periodically add throughout the season. When you water your tomatoes, make sure to water at the base of the plant and not overhead. This reduces disease risk on the leaves and prevents water splashing from the soil onto the plant, which is another source of tomato diseases. You will want to water deeply to help promote deep rooted plants. Generally, one inch a week is recommended but you may need to water more frequently if it is very hot and dry, or your tomato is in a container. Sandy soils will require more frequent watering, too. Despite your best efforts, you may still find diseases impacting your tomato plants and your tomatoes. Early blight, tomato viruses, bacterial spot, and late blight are some of the diseases that plague many Minnesota tomato growers due to Minnesota’s climate. To learn more about each of these diseases and how you can recognize them on your tomato plants, you can learn more here: Tomato Diseases . In addition to tomato diseases, you will need to watch for insects that may impact your tomato harvest. Insects to be aware of include: cutworms, flea beetles, Colorado potato beetle, aphids, sap beetles, and tomato hornworms (for more information, start here: Insects and Tomato Plants ) Finally, some common problems you may experience and may have little ability to prevent are: blossom end rot, growth cracks (fruit grows too quickly), catfacing (many causes), leaf roll, sunscald (tomato fruit gets too much sun), and yellow shoulders (top never ripens). You can find more information on these disorders here: Tomato disorders Tomatoes are not hard to grow but do require some specific gardening practices to ensure you can get a lot of fruit that are healthy and tasty. And most gardeners will agree that they are worth all the effort! Reference: University of Minnesota Extension Gardening Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens Photo credits: UMN Extension (1-5), University of Wisconsin Madison Extension (6)

< Back What Can Alliums Do For Your Garden? As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. In this article, Marjory Blare explains why you should consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You may be familiar with varieties of allium used for cooking (for example, onion, garlic, scallion). But there are many ornamental alliums with many different features and colors. Read this article to learn more about the virtues of alliums. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. You might consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You’ll be surprised at the range and variety of these members of the onion family. Alliums are plants that are in the onion family. Included in that family are the cultivated onion , garlic , scallion , shallot , leek , and chives . But, in addition to these tasty varieties there are many ornamental alliums. Alliums are a valuable addition to any garden because they are attractive to pollinators and they are close to pest-free. Rabbits, squirrels and deer don’t like them. They occasionally get downy mildew and allium leaf miners, but that’s about it for disease problems. Alliums are drought, heat and cold tolerant. They do need well-drained soil because if they sit in soggy soil, they will rot. They need full to part sun, and aren’t too picky about pH, although slightly acid is preferable. Some varieties are hardy to USDA zone 3! Various species can bloom every season except winter. You’ll find many varieties in on-line catalogs. For more about growing Alliums look at this article in The Spruce. Allium foliage will yellow and die, (sometimes before the blossoms are done), but you can plant them in a ground cover or among Hostas to hide them. Plant bulbous varieties in the fall, the shallow-rooted varieties such as chives (A. schoenoprasum) can be divided any time. Plant Alliums as surprise ‘pops’ of color throughout the garden, or in rows for a formal effect. Alliums grow well in container gardens – plant them in the fall, leave them out all winter, and they grow in the spring! Unlike some perennials, most Allium will bloom the first year. When planting, don’t let the bulbs touch each other. Plant at a depth that is three times the diameter of the bulb, and a bit of bone meal in the planting hole helps. Leaves of Allium can range from slender round blades to broad and flat, and they can be green to blue-green. Flowers range in color from yellow (A. moly) and white (A. karativiense ‘Ivory Queen’ which has broad flat blue green leaves) and on through the spectrum of pink to deep violet. There is even a blue one (A. caeruleum). The shapes of the flowers can be ball-shaped ( Allium aflatunense ), or egg-shaped (A. sphaerocephalon), nodding (A. cernum), or a display that looks like fireworks (A. schubertii)! Sizes range from the inches-tall fairy/alpine-garden sized (A. oreophilum), all the way up to the giant ‘Globe Master’ (A. giganteum) which can get up to 4 feet tall! In addition to all of the above, there are many Alliums native to Minnesota: 1) A. canadense (Wild Garlic, Meadow Garlic) 2) A. cernum (Nodding Wild Onion) 3) A. schoenprasum (Chinese chives) 4) A. stellatum (Wild Prairie Onion) 5) A. textile (White Wild Onion) 6) A. tricoccum (Wild Leek, aka Ramps or Three Seeded Leek) 7) A. tubersoum (Garlic Chives) 8) A. ursinum (Bear Garlic) Allium have many virtues, interesting traits and colors; play around with them when you design or update your garden. Have Fun! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1, 2, 3), Dreamstime (4)