< Back The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants: Written By Neil Diboll and Hilary Cox Interested in prairie plants for your garden or just to admire? Jim Lakin reviews one of the most indispensable books on the subject – “The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants.” The book includes photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. But this book also contains more valuable information. Reviewed By Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener One might wonder about the need for another guide to prairie plants when so many excellent volumes are in print. Two of the most notable are from the pen of our own Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Director of Operations, Alan Branhagen. [1] , [2] Yet Diboll and Cox’s, The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants, is unique in its contents and provides a valuable addition to the library of all those interested in and working with native plants of the Midwest. To be sure, the book contains the indispensable “Prairie Species Field Guide” with a plethora of photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. For those of us with extensive woodlands nearby, the inclusion of “Deer Palatability” is greatly appreciated. What makes this volume a uniquely desirable addition to the literature, however, is its copious theoretical and practical information. Chapters devoted to the history and ecology of the prairie, soil variations and their effect on prairie plants and the prairie food web provide valuable background. On a more practical level, the book discusses the mechanics of working with prairie plants. Designing, planting and maintaining prairie gardens is explained. Establishing a prairie meadow and rejuvenating it through a controlled burn are extensively treated. A very interesting chapter discusses propagating prairie plants from seed, a subject with many nuances. Finally, a compendium of valuable tables elaborate plant habitats and characteristics, wildlife attracted, plants for dry, medium and wet soils by bloom time (a valuable resource for our warming Upper Midwest) as well as listings of plants by bloom color and sun/shade preference. In all, Diboll and Cox have given us a powerful resource for the planning, planting and preservation of an increasingly vital component of our threatened ecology —native plants. [1] Branhagen, A., Native Plants of the Midwest, Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2016. [2] Branhagen, A., The Midwest Native Plant Primer, Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2020. Photo credit: book cover

< Back Let’s Learn About Evergreens! Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. It would be quite the challenge to be able to identify all 100+ different species of pine, spruce, and fir trees. For now, let’s look at the big categories and the trees native to Minnesota that we see most often. Let’s ask a series of questions to figure out which evergreen we’re looking at. Q: SINGLE NEEDLES OR BUNDLES? How are needles attached to the branch—in small bundles of 2-5 needles or as single needles? A: BUNDLES. We have a pine tree! There are a few kinds we see a lot of in Minnesota. WHITE PINES have 5 needles in a bundle and are long (3-5”). RED PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are long (4-6”). JACK PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are short (1-1.5”). A: SINGLES. We have either a spruce or a fir tree. Let’s ask another question. Q: FLAT OR SQUARE? Pluck off a needle and roll it between your fingers. Is it hard to roll because it’s flat, or do you feel slight ridges as it rolls in your fingers because it’s square? A: FLAT. We have a fir tree. Balsam firs are common Minnesota firs. You might remember this by thinking of Fs: firs are flat and friendly (no sharp tips on the needles). A: SQUARE. We have a spruce tree. There are a variety of spruces, but here are three. WHITE SPRUCES have hairless branches. BLACK SPRUCES have tiny red hairs between needles on their branches. BLUE SPRUCES have needles with a slight blue tinge to the color. DO: Nature Walk and Quiz Go for a nature walk and see how many different kinds of evergreens you encounter. Bring back samples of the different needles or needle bundles that you find. Once you know the trees that each needle comes from, quiz another family member or a friend by laying out all your needles on a table. Can they guess correctly? Source: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back The Enchanting World of Fairy Gardening Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a way to engage the child in your life with the outdoors?! Look no further… read here to learn about the fun and enchanting art of fairy gardening- a creative way of gardening with endless possibilities for the young and young at heart! Capture your child’s imagination as they create a small garden meant to attract the tiny magical beings, called garden fairies. Often found at the edge of the tended garden, garden lore says these guardians of nature are masters of disguise and appear in gardens as small animals, little creatures, or brightly colored orbs of light. Why Have Fun with Fairy Gardening? Whether you believe in garden fairies or just want to engage your child in imaginative play, the small-scale method of fairy gardening offers many benefits to the gardener, including connecting the child with nature while providing them with an immediate creative outlet. Also, fairy gardening can offer a way to teach the elements of landscape design, spacing, and proper irrigation to children. Another benefit of this type of gardening is that it enables a less physically constraining form of gardening for any age. How to Make an Enchanting Fairy Garden The most important tool of fairy gardening is your imagination ! Take some time and develop your plan or the story you want to tell (and attract fairies!) by deciding on the following gardening elements: 1. Theme: It can be anything you want, especially something to reflect a child’s current interests (e.g., princesses, farm animals, favorite movie characters). 2. Location: Determine where to locate your garden - in a container inside your home or outside, or in a small area of your garden. Add good potting soil for your plants and also, to set hardscape figures and structures. Good drainage, like providing holes in your container and the right soil mixture, ensures a long-lasting garden. 3. Plant selection: Choose plants that will grow to the right scale, or size, for a small garden. As you search for the right plants, consider contrasting or complementary colors and shapes of plants that best fit your theme. Here are some resources to help you choose the right plants: https://www.usbg.gov/fairy-gardens https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/miniature-gardens-a-story-to-tell/ 4. Accessorize: Start by “shopping” around your house and garden to find items that match your plan and can shape the story of your fairy garden. Suggestions: Acorns, pine cones, seeds, stones, shells, small branches, leaves, bottle caps, pipe cleaners, straws, discarded toys or parts of toys, and unused costume jewelry or fish tank stones. Craft stores have endless possibilities, too. To pursue an even more magical journey when creating your fairy garden, include the garden attributes that fairies prefer. Fairies enjoy a place to hide, like under a big leaf or behind a smaller rock. Look for small, colorful, shiny, fragrant, or soft items that will attract your neighborhood fairies. Use small ornaments or sparkly treasures. Incorporate fragrant plants (like lavender), choose plants with soft leaves, like lamb ears, or find pods (like milkweed), for a fairy to sleep on. Now you are ready to create your fairy garden! Once completed, feel free to add or change the garden as your child wants, to fully express their imagination (or even try to attract a fairy to live in their garden). As time passes, encourage your child to visit their fairy garden and leave little gifts of nature or special trinkets for the fairies. Here are some examples of fairy gardens found in Dakota County, Minnesota: To further enhance your fairy gardening experience, read: How To Catch a Garden Fairy, by Alice Walstead, a delightful read-aloud for younger elementary-aged children, which allows your child’s imagination to grow and see how making a fairy garden can entice a fairy into your garden! Borrow from the Dakota County Library: ISBN: 9781728263205 Or Buy: https://www.amazon.com/How-Catch-Garden-Fairy-Springtime/dp/1728263204 Reference: (University of Wisconsin-Madison, Extension, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/blossom-end-rot/ ) Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1,3,4,5), Marie Smith (2,6)

< Back Teaming with Microbes, by Jeff Lowenfels The book, Teaming with Microbes, may leave a reader inspired to learn more and in awe of the world below their feet. If that is the case, Jeff Lowenfels' book may be a good next choice. Reviewed by Stacy Reeves Teaming with Microbes by Jeff Lowenfels was recommended to me upon the purchase of my first worm bin. As I took a dive into the world of vermicomposting (or perhaps I should say tunneled into), Lowenfels' book was just the ticket to increase my passion for caring for these invertebrates. Though it's not an instructional on the do's and don'ts of worm bedding, food and breeding, it does highlight the many benefits worms and other soil life contribute to a gardener's goals. Lowenfels' book is a wealth of information concerning the soil food web. It contains 24 chapters reviewing the complex relationships of anything from bacteria to mammals to trees. If a gardener is interested in soil health, organic gardening, or maximizing nature's processes, Teaming with Microbes is a great read. Lowenfels highlights how slime, wastes, exudates, and tunnels work together to create soil that is not only rich in nutrients but, more specifically, rich in nutrients that have been transformed and unlocked in such a way to be readily available for plant use. The book would be worth a second read or to be used as a reference for gardeners working to "team" as effectively as possible with their garden soil's inhabitants and systems. The overarching lesson of the book is that it's far better to encourage nature's systems than to override them and therefore, Lowenfels speaks against chemical treatments. He highlights the symbiotic, complex and dynamic relationships that exist best with all the "good guys and bad guys" at play.

< Back Getting the Jump on Jumping Worms Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Many of us associate worms in the soil as an indicator of “good garden soil.” Unfortunately, that is not necessarily true in Minnesota these days. “Jumping worms” have become more common in local gardens recently and that is not a good thing. Read this article to understand why. My Uncle Casey was a farmer. He’d pick up a clod of dirt. Earth worms would slowly wriggle out. He’s say, “Good soil.” It’s almost become axiomatic that the presence of earthworms, mostly of the family Lumbricidae, indicates a healthy soil. Indeed worms consume leaf litter and organic material, release nutrients and help in soil aeration, altering soil structure. But they are not native. They, along with so much else, came over to North America in the 1600’s with early European settlement. For millennia the soil of our continent got along quite nicely without them. In the late 19 th Century a new genus, Amynthas spp or “jumping worms” arrived from East Asia on imported plants or other agricultural materials. They have made their way from the Northeast into the Midwest, first appearing in Minnesota and Wisconsin over the last 10 to 20 years. Unlike their relatively benign cousins, they have caused quite a lot of damage to the soils they have colonized. Like other invasive species, they take over. They invade the first 4 to 8 inches of soil muscling out other worms. Jumping worms consume both living and dead plant material at accelerated rates and change the soil to give it a “coffee grounds-like” texture, which can severely stunt or kill plants. A jumping worm ( Amynthas spp) with characteristic cream-colored “collar” (clitellum). So how do you know if you have them? As their name implies, jumping worms are very active in comparison to other earthworms. They wriggle around vigorously. They also have a distinctive cream-colored band about a third of the way down their bodies. About the only other worm you might confuse them with is the night crawler. A really nifty app called iNaturalist can help in identification. A species of jumping worm (Amynthas agrestis) with a dead ladyslipper plant. Jumping worms change the soil and give it the granulated look of coffee grounds. What do you do if you have them? Don’t despair. Some plants will succumb but others seem to tolerate jumping worms. You definitely want to remove and destroy any jumping worms you come across. Pop them in a resealable plastic bag and put them in the trash. Don’t spread them around your property. Carting infested soil from place to place should be avoided. They are annuals, laying eggs in leaf detritus in the fall, so be careful what you do with raked leaves. Above all, spread the word. You can report jumping worm infestations to the Great Lakes Early Detection Network ( www.gledn.org ). This is an organization which tracks invasive species around the Great Lakes and provides information to municipalities and individuals. If in doubt, report. They will verify. There’s a GLEDN app for either Apple or Google on which you can do this. What can you do to reduce the chances of getting jumping worms in your garden? Be careful of any horticultural products you bring into the garden. Soils, mulch, compost, potted plants all are potential sources of the worms. If you are thinking about trying vermiculture, be very careful that you don’t buy misidentified worms. If you have a fisherman in the family make sure he disposes unused worms in a sealed bag in the trash, not in the lake or on the shore. Want to learn more? Use this link to the University of Minnesota Extension. At present there is no known means of eradicating jumping worms, so vigilance is essential! Photo credits: Josef Gorres, University of Vermont. (1, 2, 3)

< Back All About Upcycling By now, many of us have heard the phrase, “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Read on for ways to set up our youngest gardeners with good habits to “Reuse” or “Upcycle” what they already have. No purchase required! Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener What is “upcycling?” We can be kind to both nature and our pocketbooks by using fewer resources to make products ( reduce ) and reprocessing materials like metals, paper and plastic when we are done using products ( recycle ). What if we use things we already have and turn them into something else useful without having to buy more materials or use energy to recycle? Upcycling is the “ reuse ” part of “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Lots of upcycling can happen right in our gardens! Here are some ways that you can upcycle with the children in your lives. You can have fun and teach them how to improve their environment. Soil: Composting is really upcycling. We take yard and kitchen waste, let it break down naturally, and reuse all of that nutrition right in our gardens to build up healthy soil! You can even upcycle a pail from the sandbox or the big plastic tub of animal crackers to carry scraps like banana peels, egg shells and apple cores to your compost pile or bin. Plants : Make more plants from what you have - sow a seed from your sunflower, divide perennials or propagate cuttings. Tools : A plastic milk jug with a few holes punched in the cap makes a great right-sized watering can. (I found that the pick from a nutcracker set worked well for this.) Take some crayons, markers or paints and decorate it any way you like! Another one of my favorite ways to upcycle is to use an odd plate as a saucer under plants: You can also make and decorate plant labels with popsicle sticks, straws, bottle tops or bottoms. Old forks and spoons are great for weeding and digging. An old sled or wagon is great for carrying branches, leaves, or new plants. Containers : Almost anything can be a container. Use a metal can as a vase for the flowers you picked; or to hold your tools. Poke a few holes in the bottom (with adult help) for drainage and plant some flower or vegetable seeds. Outgrow your rain boots? You can grow plants in them! Yogurt containers are great for starting seeds. You can also use a plastic bottle to make a self-watering planter: Take a look around before you go out and buy new - you may have most or all of what you need right at home to grow and play in the garden! Check out some of these great books from Dakota County Library for these and more upcycling ideas to do with kids: Play & Learn Activities for Babies by Hannah Fathi Make Plastic Fantastic, Over 25 Recycling Craft Projects by Sophia Bebb and Helen Robinson, Illustrated by Diego Valsberg and Martin Lowenstein Let’s Get Gardening, 30 Easy Gardening Projects for Children by DK Publishing Little Homesteader, A summer Treasury of Recipes, Crafts and Wisdom by Angela Ferraro-Fanning and Illustrated by Anneliesdraws Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back DIY Suet/Seed Feeders for our Feathered Friends BJ Hansell, Master Gardener As I write this, it’s nearly Halloween. Outside there is a flurry of activity. A multitude of birds including blue jays, cardinals, woodpeckers (both hairy & downy), house and gold finches, juncos, and my absolute favorites - chickadees, are flitting about. They voraciously attack and consume seeds and nuts in preparation for the rapidly approaching winter. Read this article to see how you and the child in your life can help our feathered friends. I have quite a variety of seeds, nuts, and suet feeders. But in December the kids are getting restless for something to do. The ever popular “I’m bored,” resonates through the house. I’m eager to have them take a break from screen time. How about crafting homemade bird feeders? There are several hands-on options for nearly any age to show their creativity. The projects tend to be a bit messy. But hey, when you’re a kid messy is GOOD. While we work on the feeders, we can discuss: o the different birds that hang out in the yard, o how to identify them o what they prefer to eat o where they sleep & seek shelter from the weather For example: About black-capped chickadees : o Males & Females look the same; a small gray bird with a black cap and throat patch. Tan sides & belly; white chest; small white wing marks. o Small Pointy beak o Seeds black oil sunflower, safflower; peanuts; mealworms o Cavity dweller, found in forests, woodlots, backyard nest box The recipes, supplies and instructions for making these birdfeeders appear at each of the listed sites. Song bird seed mix is available in most any grocery or home improvement store. Traditionally suet is made from rendered animal fat. The recipes here substitute shortening (Audubon) and gelatin (NWF). The pine cone feeders use peanut butter (Cornell). 1- Audubon Recipe , Materials are listed below the Video Demonstration: 2- NWF: Suet Ornaments (can use the Audubon Recipe): 3- Cornell Lab: Pine Cone Feeders DO NOT forget a source of water. Bon Appé-TWEET! Credit: https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Black-capped_Chickadee/overview# Photo credits: www.midgetmomma.com (All Creative Commons) (1), www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2,3)

< Back Moving Houseplants Outdoors for a Summer Vacation Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener You have been enjoying your indoor plants during our long, cold winter. But soon it will be time to think about transitioning some of those plants outdoors. March might seem a bit early to think about moving your indoor plants to the outdoors but plants do require a transition time and warm weather will be here sooner than you think. There are many reasons that you might move your houseplants outdoors for the summer. But there are several things to consider to ensure that your plants flourish as a result of this move. As we plan our outdoor gardens, we consider which plants can survive in the different environments in our yards, taking into account the amount of sun and the type of soil. When we obtain plants for inside our homes, we are selecting plants that can survive in the environment inside our homes. These plants do not require full sun. But they can definitely benefit from a visit outdoors. Why would you want to bring your houseplants outdoors? Sun First of all, the plants can benefit from the stronger sun rays. The strength of the sun’s rays is significantly stronger outdoors even than the sun a plant receives when placed by a south-facing window. Easter Cactus moved outdoors bloomed for the first time Rain Secondly, the plants can benefit from rainfall. Slightly acidic ph is better for overall soil health and makes nutrients more available. Rain water generally has a ph between 5.0 and 5.5. (The acidity scale runs from 0 to 14 with lower levels indicating high acid levels and higher levels more alkaline.) The acidity of tap water varies among communities but generally has a ph between 6 and 8.5. So, the acidity level of rain can strengthen plants. Rainwater also contains nutrients that can benefit the plants themselves. In addition, rain can wash the dust and other particles that have been collected on your houseplants. They’re Pretty! Finally, houseplants can be used to beautify your deck or patio and eliminate or reduce the need to purchase plants that you will discard at the end of summer. The plants can also be incorporated into your garden, either directly in the ground or by placing the potted plant among your outdoor plants. Things to Think About Temperature : The move outdoors shouldn’t begin until the temperature is above 50 or 60 degrees. Phases : Make the move in phases. First move all your plants to a shady area, even those plants that can benefit from stronger sunlight. Keep plants that prefer shade (those plants that weren’t kept near a south-facing window), in this location. Other plants should be moved to a sunny location over the course of a week or 10 days. Water : Plants do require a difference in care outdoors than indoors. First of all, plants grow more quickly during the summer months and this growth spurt will generally be intensified when plants are placed outdoors. Therefore, plants will require more water and more fertilizer. The amount of water and the frequency of watering will depend on the type of plant, the type of pot (clay pots are porous and therefore moisture will escape through the pots while water in plastic pots can only be absorbed in the soil and can only escape through drainage holes), and other factors such as the amount of rain and humidity. Water your plants on their schedule, not yours. Check to see if your plant needs watering by sticking a finger about ½ inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, water. Fertilizer : House plants should not be fertilized during the winter months. During those months when there is reduced light and temperature, they experience reduced growth. However, they will benefit from fertilizer during the summer months. This is particularly true if the plants have been moved outdoors. Be sure to use fertilizer that is labeled for indoor plants and follow the instructions on the package regarding the amount and frequency of application. Too much fertilizer can result in a buildup of salts and excessive, leggy growth. Repotting : When outside you might want to repot those plants that have become root-bound so you won’t create a mess indoors. Some signs that your plant may need repotting include, roots growing through the drainage holes, the plant becoming top-heavy, or the plant growing slower than in the past. When transplanting to another pot, the new pot should only be 1-2 inches larger than the original pot. The Negatives Keep in mind things that might negatively impact your plants. Large rainfalls and heavy winds might have adverse effects on plants. Remember to consider the amount of rainfall the plants experienced when deciding when your plants need watering. Watch for heavy winds that might cause large or top-heavy plants to fall over. Watch for signs that your plants are sun-scorched. Indications of sun scorch are leaves that become brittle and turn yellow or brown. Generally, if caught early, you can remove the impacted leaves and move the plants to a shadier location. Watch for pests that might set up household on your plants or the pots holding your plants. Many of these pests don’t harm your plants, but you will want to eliminate them before moving your plants back indoors. Photo Credit: Carol Fuerstneau (1), Linda Stein (2, 3), Steve Greenstein (4)

< Back Creating a Butterfly Habitat Susan Ball, Dakota Master Gardener Would you like to attract a variety of butterflies to your garden? Different plants and environments attract different types of butterflies. So, if you really want to focus on particular butterflies, you can do it by planting appealing plants and creating welcoming environments. Read this informative article about what you need to do to attract butterflies to your garden. Would you like to attract a variety of butterflies to your garden? Different plants and environments attract different types of butterflies. So, if you really want to focus on particular butterflies, you can do it by planting appealing plants and creating welcoming environments. For example, asking, “what color flowers will attract butterflies?” is the wrong question to ask. Or rather, an incomplete question. Successful butterfly gardening requires creating “butterfly habitat,” which addresses each type of butterfly’s needs over its entire life cycle. The life cycle of the butterfly consists of four distinct stages: egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa (chrysalis: sack-like covering), and adult. A successful butterfly garden must provide food and habitat for both adult butterflies and their caterpillars all year round. Though many butterflies will drink nectar from a variety of flowering plants, their caterpillars are often limited as to which plants they can feed on. These plants are called “host plants”. I n order to create a successful butterfly habitat you must have: 1. A combination of adult nectar sources and larval host plants . Your goal is to attract the maximum variety of species to remain in your yard, reproduce and build populations, not to pass through for a snack on their way to more attractive living quarters. While butterflies need both host and nectar plants to complete their life cycles, an emphasis on host plants encourages butterflies to breed within given areas. Each kind of butterfly uses a limited range of host plants, but many host plants also provide nectar; in other words, a “twofer;” consider these plants first. Milkweed is a good example of a twofer: a host plant and nectar provider for Monarch butterflies. 2. Native species and their favorite landscapes . Most larval host plants are natives. Click here for a list of butterflies and their host plants from the University of Minnesota Extension. Remember that larval host plants are meant to be eaten . Damaged leaves or even plants that are completely defoliated is a good thing. It means your butterfly garden has attracted butterflies that have reproduced! And only a few plants are eaten to the ground by butterfly larvae; examples being, milkweed, parsley, dill, and fennel. These plants, however, often rebound several times before they must be replaced. On other hosts, like trees, most shrubs and grasses, feeding damage is barely noticeable, and what there is encourages healthy, new plant growth. NOTE: many nurseries use pesticides and these chemicals can be deadly to butterfly larvae. When buying host plants always ask if they have been treated with pesticides. Similarly, be very careful when using pesticides in your garden. If you must use chemicals, use them sparingly, and only treat the infected plant. 3. Shelter and a variety of feeding opportunities . Plants with different heights and growth habits appeal to a greater variety of butterflies by providing more opportunities for feeding and shelter. For example, when monarch and queen butterflies are looking for nectar, they are generally attracted to taller flowers. And don’t forget trees: wild cherry (which hosts tiger swallowtail ) and willow (which hosts Viceroy - a monarch look-alike) provides both food and shelter . In addition, wild cherry and willow also produce nectar that attracts many other kinds of butterflies. Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly 4. Plants which have different blooming times . These plants provide food for butterflies during periods of low natural availability. Flowers, like asters, which are late season bloomers, are important sources of nectar for butterflies (as well as bees and other pollinators) in the fall. Asters 5. Plants with different flower colors and different flower shapes . Different butterfly species are attracted to different flower colors : yellow, orange, white, and blue flowers as well as reds, pinks, and purples, but the shape of the flower is important too. The feeding behavior and length of the proboscis (aka: butterfly tongue) dictate which flowers butterflies visit. Long-tubed flowers are more accessible to species with long probosces whereas many composites (daisy-like flowers, like black-eyed Susans and Stokes’ aster) provide a feeding platform and easy nectar accessibility for smaller species. As a rule, small butterflies feed on nectar from small flowers and large butterflies feed on nectar from larger ones. Avoid double flowers. They are usually bred for showiness, not nectar production. 6. Plant in shade as well as full sun . Shade appeals to more butterfly species, especially forest species butterflies. The Giant Swallowtail and the Mustard White are Minnesota butterflies that prefer a shady woodland habitat. A rare shade-loving species, the Taiga Alpine , occurs in northern Minnesota exclusively, when in the lower 48 states. Mustard White Butterfly (first of its kind documented at Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, 2021 7. Group plantings of flowers . Group plantings of flowers are more apparent in the landscape, not only to us but to butterflies as well, allowing larvae to locate additional food in the event of shortage. 8. Habitat and food for “no-flower” butterflies . There are butterflies that rarely visit flowers, like the Question Mark . These butterflies hang around rotting fruit, animal dung, dead animal carcasses - which you may or may not want to supply - or tree sap. If you have fruit trees, you can leave fallen fruit, like apples, on the ground. Then there are also the “ puddle club ” butterflies - mostly male. They gather at mud puddles and stream banks to drink water and take in salts and other nutrients. You’ll attract these butterflies if you live on or near water, or you can create your own “puddles” to attract them. 9. Shelter for “overwintering” butterflies . There are about nine butterflies that overwinter in Minnesota, among them the Question Mark. Although many of them “hibernate”, only coming out during the winter if there is an exceptionally warm day, these butterflies need shelter during the winter months to survive our climate. Adjust your fall cleanup to provide habitat for them. Don’t mulch everything. Leaf litter from large plants, like hostas, for example, provides shelter for butterflies and other pollinators. Also, don’t cut your spent flowers and plants down to the ground. Leaving 18” to 20” worth of stems and leaves also provides shelter for these overwintering butterflies. In addition, you can take fallen sticks and stems, bundle them together and put them in an out-of-the-way place in your yard to provide more habitat. To sum up: Be less tidy! Provide a year-round combination of food and shelter for butterflies. Then, sit back this summer on your lounger, a glass of lemonade or ice tea by your side, and enjoy your successful butterfly garden! REFERENCES “Butterfly Gardens”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/index.html “Butterfly, Bee and Moth Garden Designs”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/designs.html Krischik, Vera, “Creating a Butterfly Garden”, https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/creating-butterfly-garden . Contains a list of butterflies and their host plants Malone, Kathy, IFAS Publication “COMMUNITY BUTTERFLYSCAPING: HOW TO MOVE BEYOND BUTTERFLY GARDENING TO CREATE A LARGE-SCALE BUTTERFLY HABITAT” (contains tables listing flowers and hosts for specific butterflies), https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP420 Reeves, Walter, “Attract Butterflies to Your Garden by Building a Butterfly Puddle”, You Tube, U of GA Extension: https://extension.uga.edu/ Stokes, Donald and Llillian, The Butterfly Book: An Easy Guide to Butterfly Gardening, Identification, and Behavior, Little, Brown and Co., New York, NY 1991. Weisenhorn, Julie, “UMN Extension Fall Cleanup for Pollinators” (video), https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/flowers-pollinators “Rare Species”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/rsg/profile.html?action=elementDetail&selectedElement=IILEPN8140#:~:text=The taiga alpine is listed, clearly a long-term threat. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1), www.flickr.com (all creative commons) (2), www.publicdomainpictures.net (3,4), https://arb.umn.edu/blog/2021/03/30/meet-the-mustard-white-butterfly (5)

< Back How to Prepare Your Garden for Young Children Kristin Beardsley Schoenherr, Master Gardener Whether it’s children or grandchildren, nieces, nephews, or other little ones, it’s great to include them in the garden. Gardens are a place to grow fruits, vegetables, or flowers, and enjoy nature. Who better to enjoy gardens with than young children? But those little hands and minds can have a hard time if the garden is not designed with them in mind. This article will discuss how to design your garden considering the needs of little ones and how to prepare activities so they can be successful gardening and grow a joy for it. Whether it’s children or grandchildren, nieces, nephews, or other little ones, it’s great to include them in the garden. Gardens are a place to grow fruits, vegetables, or flowers, and enjoy nature. Who better to enjoy gardens with than young children? But those little hands and minds can have a hard time if the garden is not designed with them in mind. This article will discuss how to design your garden considering the needs of little ones and how to prepare activities so they can be successful gardening and grow a joy for it. Tools for planting and weeding: A little bucket and child sized trowel are perfect for weeding and planting. You can show your child how to dig a hole by putting the dirt into a bucket. Then place the bulb or seedling and pour the dirt back into the hole. Similarly, the set can be used for weeding by digging out the weeds and putting them in the bucket. Don’t forget to show the child where to dump the weeds. Planting seeds: Small children’s fine motor skills are just developing so it’s hard to hold and plant seeds. Putting the seeds in a little cup allows them to securely hold the seeds and choose one to plant. I also find that our daughter steals my kneeling pad, so I have a special little one for her to go get. Watering plants: Choose a little watering can that is small enough for your child to lift and carry independently when full. I like a sprinkle head for outdoor use. If possible, it’s really nice to have a way for your child to fill the watering can on their own as well. Harvesting: Harvest time is the best time! I find that children are likely to at least try the fruit and veggies they plant and harvest. Native strawberries are great ground-cover even in partial shade and provide tons of sweet little berries to pick and eat or freeze for the winter. Have a special little bowl to encourage more collecting and less eating, or collecting and eating. Dining : Don’t forget a sweet little spot to eat your delicious harvest. A Place for Everything and Everything in it’s Place: Have a place to store your child’s gardening supplies that they can reach and access on their own. When we keep this area nicely organized they know how to get their things and can be responsible for putting them away. Let’s be honest, my daughter doesn’t always put her things away on her own, but a consistent set-up will allow her to do this as she matures. We keep out child-sized tools needed for the current season. Here you can see her watering can, dish for seeds, kneeling mat, and gardening tote. The tote includes a child-sized metal trowel, fork, gardening gloves, and bucket. I did not put out the turtle labels that came with the set, and we bought her some better fitting gloves. She truly uses these tools to garden, something plastic and easily breakable would be frustrating. Other seasonal tools might include a rake for leaves in the fall or shovel for snow in the winter. A Children’s Garden: Some children and families enjoy having a designated space for a children’s garden. This can be a place for the child to make all their own choices. I find that children enjoy gardening the whole garden and don’t want to only garden in the children’s area. Little children benefit from quiet moments of independent observation and interaction in the garden. Children love little pathways and other things that make a garden fun like garden art and wind chimes. Consider including elements that are at their level. Gardens can be for playing as well! If children getting dirty stresses you out, have a clean-up plan that the children understand before they get started. We enjoy having a sand box, fairy garden, and swings in our garden as well. I can work while the children do what they enjoy. Photo credits: Kristin Beardsley Schoenherr (1 - 11)

< Back Houseplant Pests Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Discovering and controlling pests on your indoor plants is an important step for keeping your indoor garden healthy and happy. The information in this article will help you keep these unwanted visitors off your plants and out of your home. Last month we talked about keeping your houseplants healthy, paying attention to growing requirements, fertilization, watering, hygiene and potting soil. Minding all these factors will reduce the chance of sickly plants and pest attacks. Yet, alas, in even the best of environments, insect problems sometimes rear their ugly heads. So, what to do if you suspect you have some unwelcome residents on your houseplants? As we said, inspect them for insect pests when you water, clean or fertilize. They most often congregate on the underside of leaves. You should look for insects, holes, webbing or eggs. Give an even closer inspection to any plants brought in from the store or the outside. Using a magnifying glass helps. It also impresses any bystanders. You want to look for “honeydew” which is a shiny sticky substance produced by aphids, mealybugs and scale insects. Also check plant containers for pests along the ridges and bottom of pots and saucers. It’s not a bad idea to put a new plant in quarantine, away from the rest of your collection, for a week or two. More often than not a pest problem will declare itself during this period. Honeydew on houseplant leaves. When you water the plants keep a sharp lookout for bugs like springtails and fungus gnats. They usually move with the water. If you think you might have flying insects like thrips, winged aphids, fungus gnats or whiteflies, setting up a sticky paper trap like the one illustrated can help in detection. A yellow sticky card can trap flies. If you find an infestation early on, more often than not you can manage it without pesticides. That’s good for you and for the environment. Washing the plant will remove small infestations. Use a paper towel to wipe leaves, changing the paper frequently to prevent spread. You can wash small plants in the sink and larger ones in the shower. Be one with your Ficus! You can physically remove many pests. Larger insects such as millipedes, slugs, caterpillars or earwigs can be picked off the plants. Mealybugs can be removed with a forceps (tweezers) or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Those hard little grey scales can be taken off the plant with a fingernail file. Pruning is another option if the critters are isolated on a few leaves, stems or branches. Be aggressive. Most plants will recover remarkably well if relieved of their insect burden and given the right growing environment. If all else fails and the plant looks like a goner, don’t hesitate to toss it. This avoids exposing other plants to the same pest problem, which will save you grief in the long run. Rather than composting the diseased plant, I prefer to wrap it in a Ziplock bag and put it in the trash. To obtain more information about specific pests as well as what to do if non-chemical methods fail to control your problem, check out Prof. Jeffery Hahn’s recommendations on the University of Minnesota Extension website: https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/insects-indoor-plants#using-pesticides-for-pest-management-1580961 Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back A Versatile Understory Tree: Eastern Redbud Jim Lakin introduces us to another stunning, not-too-big tree native to Minnesota – the Eastern Redbud. This lovely specimen welcomes spring with rosy-pink pea like flowers and ends the growing season with large, heart shaped yellow leaves. It would make a lovely addition to your garden. Read on to learn more. Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Last month we talked about one lovely understory (i.e. not too big) tree, the Serviceberry. Another stunner that you might consider is the Eastern Redbud. Eastern Redbud ( Cercis canadensis ) is a small, graceful tree native to the eastern and central United States. It is one of the first natives to bloom in the spring when it presents a stunning display of rosy-pink pea like flowers that bloom close to the branches and even on the trunk. The result is a spectacular springtime show. The leaves that follow are large and heart shaped, assuming a clear yellow color in the fall. As Cercis canadensis is a member of the pea family its fruits are brown to black pods, typical of the Fabaceae or legume family. If you are considering a Redbud, you should plan on planting in the spring, probably in mid to late May here in Minnesota. It grows best in full to part sunlight in a moist well-drained soil. It is pretty tolerant of both acid and alkaline soils and is hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 9. The Eastern Redbud can grow to 20 to 30 feet tall with about a 25-foot spread. It has a tendency to form multiple trunks, so if you are going for a single one, some pruning will be necessary. In planning your placement, redbud makes a great specimen, patio or lawn tree. If you plant daffodils or tulips around it, they will bloom at approximately the same time and put on a really impressive show. In case you’re thinking Eastern Redbud is too good to be true, it isn’t. It’s a relatively short-lived tree, about 20 years. It is also susceptible to several pests including leaf spot and verticillium wilt. The latter can be controlled with deep-root watering, careful pruning and fertilization. Deer and rabbits love redbud as much as we do, so it is best to apply plastic trunk guards for the first two to three years until established. On the plus side they do attract hummingbirds and a number of butterflies as would be expected from a native perennial. Caring for your Eastern Redbud should include regular watering, about once a week to 2 to 3 inches especially in the first two years. A good thick mulch helps, but keep the mulch about 1 to 2 inches away from the trunk. Fertilization requirements are usually light. A soil test can help to determine if there are any deficiencies. As we said redbuds do well in full sun to part shade. However, you should avoid placing the tree in a real scorcher of a location as they do better with a bit of shade in excessively hot environments. Thus, with a little bit of care your Eastern Redbud will become established and richly reward you each spring. Photo Credit: Penn State Extension (1), www.messersmith.name (All Creative Commons) (2)