< Back To Every Weed (Turn, Turn, Turn) There is a Season (Turn, Turn, Turn) Marjory Blare, Master Gardener As you get excited about the growing season really getting going, you may also be seeing weeds popping up amongst your more intentional plantings. Wondering what you can do to keep those weeds in check? Read on for information from Master Gardener Marjory Blare on identifying weeds and some ideas for managing them. Weed: a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth especially : one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants. It is late spring, and I stand looking with satisfaction at the bucket of prickly lettuce seedlings at my feet, but make the mistake of glancing back at the hillside of shrubs and perennials. With a wilting feeling, I start seeing the vast number of Purselane and Spotted Spurge seedlings. By mid-summer Lambs Quarters, Redroot Pigweed, and Ragweed (achoo!) will have germinated. I know that come early fall I will be seeing Horseweed and Pineapple-weed. Identifying weeds can give you information on how to get rid of them, which are invasive, which are edible and which ones toxic or irritating to humans and/or animals. Knowing which weeds you have can tell you if you have compacted soils, rich soils or soils deficient in various nutrients. They can be annual (come up every year from seed), perennial (overwintering roots), or biennial (weeds that form a basal rosette the first year and produce flowers and seeds the second year). Weeds commonly germinate in the spring, some germinate in the fall, and there are others that come up just when you think your flower beds, pathways and gravel drives are weed free. Then, oh dear, there are the ones that can germinate, set seed and germinate again! Here are a few weeds you might encounter. For more resources on identifying and managing weeds: If you have a plant and want to know if it's a weed, this UMN Extension link will help you. https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/ Here is the Extension site for lawn weeds and what to do about them. https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/lawn-weeds The DNR has this site to help you identify invasive weeds, and what to do about them, including reporting certain weeds to the DNR. https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/index.html Here is one link to edible weeds, but, look for the coming Buzz article on edible weeds. https://my.chicagobotanic.org/tag/edible-weeds/ Weeds of the Upper Midwest by Teresa Marrone This is a book highly recommended by Dakota County Master Gardener Sally Macnamara “I know a weed when I see it. Although identifying a weed is not strictly necessary, it can be satisfying to know the enemy.” - Marjory Blare Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (1,3,4,5) & istock.com/photos/common-purslane (2)

< Back Know Your Resources “Hey, Siri, what’s the best kind of mulch for my garden?” This is a question often overheard in a plant center from someone trying to make a selection for their yard. And while Siri can give some options, one has to doubt the accuracy of the reply. Questionable advice can always be found somewhere, whether that’s from artificial intelligence or your neighbor’s second cousin on Facebook, but surely there’s a better way to get the most accurate and helpful answers! This article explains how you can find answers to many of your gardening questions from experts and based on research. Read on to learn how to find reliable answers to your gardening questions. Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener For Dakota County gardeners, let’s get better acquainted with two websites: the U of MN Extension site and our Dakota County Master Gardener site. You can bookmark these on your phone, computer, or tablet—and I encourage anyone to do so. You can find hundreds of helpful articles, guides, books, pamphlets, and more, all available for free! Everything is backed by scientific research and all specific to our growing zone and climate. U of MN EXTENSION SITE: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden From this start page, you see several specific guides to get started in the garden and solve common problems. How-To Guides Growing Guides (starting a garden, composting, fertilizing, hydroponics, houseplants, and more) Pollinator Guides Growing Safe Food Soil and Nutrient Health (including information on how to get your soil tested to learn which fertilizers are best for it ) Watering Guides Landscape design Lawn Care (with calendars for when to seed, mow, and more) Find Plants Flowers (annuals, perennials, native flowers) Fruit Houseplants Native Plants Trees and Shrubs Vegetables Weeds (identify weeds and learn control strategies) What’s wrong with my plant? This helps you diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases, or other issues. If, for example, your eggplants look strange in the vegetable garden this summer, look up eggplants in this guide to learn what the issue is and solve the problem going forward. Weeds Identify the weed in your lawn and find the best way to eradicate or manage it. Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers : https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/ On our local Dakota County Master Gardener website, you’ll find a calendar of local events as well as updates on our local projects and other gardening resources. You will also find dozens of articles on a variety of gardening topics (most articles previously found in the Garden Buzz monthly newsletter). You will find articles on what you might be doing in your garden monthly, good gardening tips, features on native and perennial plants and vegetables; recipes using vegetables or fruits from your garden, and tips to deal with problems in or related to your garden. There is a search box to help you find articles by topic. There is also a link to subscribe to our Garden Buzz newsletter. This is a great supplement to the statewide website. Information on Let’s Get Growing (our spring gardening expo) and the Annual Plant Sale in May is there, as well as a list of the farmers’ markets where our Master Gardener Volunteers will be, answering questions and ready to discuss home gardens with all who stop by. Other resources of note: Gardening Projects with Children This section has dozens of project ideas to do with the kid gardeners in your life! Projects are available for all seasons and incorporate science learning and art. Gardening Book Club Recommendations Looking for a book to read with your gardening club? We’ve got you covered with dozens of book reviews on horticultural topics. Finally, a last way to get information on gardening and the Dakota County Master Gardener projects going on all around you is to follow us on Facebook and Instagram . When the U of MN offers free webinars on pollinators or when a garden tour in our area pops up, we’ll be sure to let you know! Photo credits: Photo 1 for newsletter: Credit Paul Wood Photo 2, credit: U of M Extension

< Back Snow Mold! It’s Not About Putting Snow in a Mold As the snow begins to melt, you may start to see a grayish, and sometimes pinkish, circular straw-like, matted patch in your yard, especially near the street where snow was piled up for what may have seemed like decades to some but was only a few months. The spot can also have a “webby” fungus appearance. If you have this phenomenon in your yard, then click on this link to learn about snow mold and what you can do to prevent it from happening again next Spring. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Snow Mold is a fungus that develops and thrives when early, deep snow covers the ground prior to the ground being frozen. Snow mold can continue to grow once the snow has melted in the Spring as long as the conditions remain wet and cold. There are 2 types of snow mold found in Minnesota: Gray snow mold produces sclerotia which look like dark, hard round bodies on the grass blade. Pink snow mold produces pink-colored spores and fuzzy mycelium. Areas of your lawn that are affected with snow mold will generally take longer to green up in the Spring but usually come back to normal and therefore, is not usually too serious. In a bad weather year, it can, however, kill the grass. If you want to “spring” into Action this Spring: You can choose to break up and spread the larger snow piles around in the affected areas. This will help the snow melt faster and dry out quicker. You can gently rake the area to create a faster drying process and prevent further mold growth. Preparation to avoid snow mold altogether must be done in the Fall with these easy steps: If your yard is prone to snow mold, skip a Fall nitrogen fertilizer which the fungus thrives on. Continue to mow your lawn until the grass stops growing. Cut grass to 2 inches (but not shorter) to prevent the grass from matting and allowing mold to grow. Rake up leaves If you have certain areas in your yard where snow mold is a problem, consider a snow fence to reduce large piles of snow. While snow mold can be a little unsightly in the Spring, a few actions can help alleviate the problem quickly! Source: University of Minnesota Extension: “Snow Mold Prevention Begins in Autumn”, October 20, 2023 Photo Credit: University of MN Extension (1,2)

< Back Adaptive and Therapeutic Gardening Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer “Time spent in nature is essential for our health and comes with myriad benefits,” says Dr. Jean Larson, the manager of Nature-Based Therapeutics and Nature Heals Initiative at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum and faculty lead of the Nature-Based Therapeutic Studies at the Earl Bakken Center for Spirituality and Healing of the University of Minnesota. Read on for Master Gardener Mickey Scullard’s article about the therapeutic applications of horticulture and ways to make the benefits of gardening more accessible to many different levels of ability. Adaptive and Therapeutic Gardening addresses health, healing, and methods to help people of all abilities garden. Adaptive gardening provides suggestions for tools and garden structures that facilitate people who may have visual, sensory, or physical limitations such as arthritis or mobility difficulties that don’t permit kneeling on the ground. Therapeutic gardening, often called Horticultural Therapy, employs techniques that help people regain lost skills or learn new skills. Horticultural therapy has a long history of proven success in helping people heal through gardening. Originally focused on people with mental illnesses and then on soldiers returning from combat, it has expanded far beyond that to include physical rehabilitation for many conditions. Research has shown that horticultural therapy helps improve memory and cognitive abilities, too. Some programs have found success helping people who live with eating disorders. Physically, people can improve muscle strength, coordination, balance, and endurance. Horticultural therapy is performed by therapists who are professionals with specialized training leading to certification. The University of Minnesota’s Center for Spirituality and Health partners with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum to offer a horticultural therapy certification program as part of their Nature-based therapeutics program: UMN Nature-Based Therapeutics . They also offer courses in animal-assisted interactions and therapeutic landscape design. The Landscape Arboretum has a Sensory Garden that provides people with a wonderful example of the different type of healing properties of plants through smell, texture, and beauty. Designed to help encourage people to relax and designed to be accessible, it has something for everyone. Adaptive gardening provides methods people can use to garden throughout their life. This may start with the garden design, identifying the best planting structures, and using tools that have been designed to lessen strain, extend reach, and other mechanisms to help people perform all the steps needed to grow flowers and vegetables. Oregon State University developed an informative guide that walks you through the things to think about (see link below). For example, you may want to plan your garden walkways to be wheelchair accessible, position garden beds near water sources, or use a plastic garbage can filled with water to allow the gardener to easily dip their watering can. The material you use on pathways between garden beds can facilitate movement and thinking about different heights and widths of garden beds are other considerations. Container gardening may be a good technique for some people to continue to garden with less maintenance. The Landscape Arboretum’s Sensory Garden provides some examples of adaptive gardening through containers and raised beds. There are also smaller, easier ways to adapt to gardening limitations that include the availability of specialized garden tools that have handles that lessen strain on arthritic limbs and hands, or those that extend the reach so you don’t have to bend as far. For example, you can get easi-grip trowels, ergonomic and/or ratcheting pruners. You will want to practice safe lifting techniques by bending at the hips, lift with your knees, and lift close to your body. Consider lighter loads and making multiple trips. Pushing is better than pulling and it is always good to use carts/wagons. Other techniques that can help you garden longer safely include stretching before starting, gardening in shorter amounts of time, e.g., 60 – 90 minutes. Try to avoid or break-up repetitive movements and make sure you drink water. Gardening has many benefits to our health, well-being, and good mental health. With some extra work, it can be experienced by everyone. It can also help people heal from injuries, learn new skills, and address many different types of mental health issues. References University of Minnesota Center for Spirituality and Health Nature-Based Therapeutics https://csh.umn.edu/academics/focus-areas/nature-based-therapeutics Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Nature-Based Therapeutics https://arb.umn.edu/learn/health-wellbeing-programs/about-nature-based-therapeutics Oregon State University https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/em8498.pdf University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources https://ucanr.edu/sites/cetrinityucdavisedu/files/280231.pdf Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3) & University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources (4,5)

< Back You Fall Garden Clean Up Check List By Julie Harris, Master Gardener The garden growing season may be over but before you put your feet up and sip your hot cider, there are a few things you should do to clean up and prepare your garden for winter. Fall garden clean up provides multiple benefits for both you and your garden. Here are twelve tasks you should consider to tuck your garden in for the winter. The garden growing season may be over but before you put your feet up and sip your hot cider, there are a few things you should do to clean up and prepare your garden for winter. Fall garden clean up provides multiple benefits for both you and your garden. It can reduce the spread of weeds and disease, reduce insect pests, prevent rodent infestation and, finally – ease your workload in the spring. Here are twelve tasks you should consider to tuck your garden in for the winter. 1. Plant spring bulbs. Yes, you are not thinking about planting this time of year but make an exception for spring bulbs. Just think ahead to April and May when bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocus and allium provide the color that you have missed over the winter. Here are previous Garden Buzz articles about planting daffodils and protecting bulbs . 2. Remove and store tender bulbs that you want to replant in the spring, such as: anemone, tuberous begonia, caladium, calla lilies, canna, dahlias and gladiola. See this UMN article for more information about how to do so correctly. 3. Clean your garden but try to do so on sunny dry days in the late morning or afternoon. Pulling plants when the garden is wet can spread disease in the garden. In addition, walking on wet soil can damage the soil structure. 4. Cut back perennials but wait until the plant is no longer green. You may want to leave some plants up through the winter . In the winter months when food is scarce, gardens full of withered fruit and dried seed heads can provide birds with a reliable food source. Seed-eating songbirds such as finches, sparrows, chickadees, and jays will make use of many common garden plants. When cleaning up the garden, prioritize removing and discarding diseased top growth, but leave healthy seed heads standing. Old stalks and leaves can be cut back in the spring before new growth begins. Examples of perennials to leave standing in the garden include sedum, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, sunflower, switchgrass and little blue stem. 5. Bag and throw away infested plants. Put healthy plants on your compost pile. Fall is a good time to remove vines from fences and other supports when the stems are firmer. 6. Pull out and clean garden labels, stakes, cages and trellises. Pull up black plastic from the garden as it can harbor insects. If you have garden art, clean and put it away unless you want it to provide some winter interest. 7. Rake your garden beds to remove plant debris. You may spread shredded tree leaves evenly on your garden bed, tilling them in to a shallow depth. 8. Rake the leaves on your lawn then mow lawn one last time. Mow with your blade at 2 inches to reduce the chance of snow mold. Then clean and service your lawn mower so it will be ready to go in the spring. 9. Prepare any houseplants that you left outside all summer before bringing them inside. Examine plants for insects; clean out plant debris that may be on the soil surface; clean the saucer and pot. Consider whether the plant needs to be transplanted into a larger pot after spending the summer growing in the sun. 10. Protect your plants and trees. Wrap sensitive evergreens to reduce potential wind damage. Put tree guards or cloth cages around young trees and shrubs to prevent sunscald damage and animal damage. Read these articles by Dakota County Master Gardeners for more information about protecting trees and plants from winter damage. https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/treesshrubs/taking-care-of-and-protecting-trees-before-winter ; https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/treesshrubs/preparing-your-trees-and-evergreens-for-winter 11. Now is a good time have your soil tested. Send your sample to the UMN Soils Lab. The report will provide recommendations for improving your soil health. Go to https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ for instructions. 12. Clean and sharpen your tools and containers before storing them away for the winter. Wash pots and tools with a diluted bleach or 70% rubbing alcohol solution. Cleaning will help prevent the spread of diseases and unwanted weed seeds and insect eggs. It will also help to prolong the life of your tools. And, don’t forget to take a moment to enjoy the spectacular color display that your garden is providing this time of year! References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/final-fall-do-list https://extension.umn.edu/news/putting-your-garden-bed https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/fall-clean-time-remove-annual-vines Photo credits: www.ag.ndsu.edu (All Creative Commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3, 4), Karna Berg (5)

< Back Lettuce, the crunchy cold-loving crop! Jess Nguyen, Master Gardener Intern What leafy vegetable could be a more fitting staple of summer than the humble lettuce, which makes up the backbone of a refreshing salad and adds a fresh crunch to any picnic sandwich? Cultivation of lettuce dates back to the ancient Egyptians, who used the plant as an important food crop and seed oil source. Today, there are hundreds of varieties of lettuce grown across the globe. Keep reading to find out how you can grow this quick-growing crop in your own garden. What leafy vegetable could be a more fitting staple of summer than the humble lettuce, which makes up the backbone of a refreshing salad and adds a fresh crunch to any picnic sandwich? Lettuce ( Lactuca sativa ) is an annual cool-season crop that grows well in the spring and fall. Lettuce is a fantastic candidate for succession planting in your garden, as your lettuce harvest will be ready once the summer starts to warm up and can then be replaced by heat-loving plants. Lactuca sativa has hundreds of varieties (wow!) that can be categorized into different types. Some commonly-grown categories are as follows: Non-heading lettuce, which includes loose-leaf lettuce varieties; Soft-headed lettuce, which includes varieties such as butterhead lettuce; Ruffled-headed lettuce, which includes French crisp/summer crisp/Batavia lettuce; Tall and compact head lettuce such as Romaine lettuce; Dense, solid head lettuce, which includes iceberg lettuce. For beginner gardeners, loose-leaf lettuce tends to be the easiest type of lettuce to grow! Lettuce seeds are very small and require loose, well-draining, and well-tilled/non-clumpy soil to effectively germinate. Adding compost to your soil before sowing lettuce seeds will help the lettuce to produce large and well-shaped heads. Lettuce prefers cooler temperatures; a soil temperature range between 45°F and 65°F (7°C and 18°C) is ideal. Sow lettuce seeds on the surface of the soil, 1/4 to 1/2 inches deep. When choosing a spot to grow lettuce, pick an area that gets five to six hours of sunlight. In hotter temperatures, lettuce benefits from an area that gets shade in the afternoon. An easy method to control the quality of your starting soil and the growing environment would be to start lettuce plants indoors. You can start seeds when you would otherwise not be able to: when the temperature is still too cold in spring to plant and when the temperature is too hot in the summer for lettuce to thrive! Sow seeds about four weeks before you intend to transplant them. Thin seedlings to encourage the largest plants to thrive. Harden your seedlings before transplanting. In the spring, transplant lettuce about a week after the last frost, when freezing temperatures no longer persist. In the fall, transplant lettuce about two months before the first frost date. For direct sowing, sow seeds in the spring as soon as the soil is workable; this should be two to four weeks before your last frost. For fall harvest, sow lettuce seeds about three months before the first frost date, which for Minnesota tends to occur around late August. Soil in late summer can be cooled to suitable temperatures by covering with damp hay to shield the soil from the sun before planting. Rows of lettuce should be 18 to 30 inches apart. Thin seedlings to the appropriate spacing based on the variety that you’ve planted. For example, most loose-leaf varieties recommend seedlings spaced four inches apart, while Romaine lettuce should be planted eight inches apart. Lettuce has very shallow roots, so frequent watering is important for growth. Soil should remain moist but not be overly-wet, which can lead to disease. Thankfully, it is easy to see when your lettuce needs water–look for the obvious signs of wilting that tell you to water the leaves to cool down your lettuce plants. Some common pests for lettuce plants include cutworms, which can cut seedlings and lettuce plants off at the soil line, causing seedlings to die and growing plants to wilt. Cutworms should be hand-picked off of the plants, and collars that extend two inches into the soil surrounding the plants can help deter the worms from further damage. Slugs, which cause holes in lettuce leaves, should also be removed from the plants by hand. Aphids are a pest that can stunt the growth of the lettuce causing yellowed and misshapen leaves and can also cause disease. Remove aphids by blasting them with a water spray, or by introducing biological controls such as ladybugs into your garden. One common problem when growing lettuce is bolting, which is caused when lettuce plants grow in temperatures that are consistently above 75°F. Bolting is when lettuce plants produce a central stalk to flower, which causes the leaves of the lettuce plants to become very bitter and unsuitable for eating. Long days and intense sunlight can also cause bolting. Therefore, for most areas in Minnesota, the months of June, July, and August have conditions that are too hot to grow lettuce effectively. Use these months for heat-loving plants instead! Harvest lettuce when the leaves are full-sized but still young, as mature leaves tend to go bitter. In the spring, leaves will have the best flavor before the weather becomes hot and dry. In the fall when cooler temperatures benefit lettuce, beware of prolonged freezes, which can damage your harvest! You can harvest lettuce by removing outer leaves (which can also be done as the plant is still growing) or by cutting the plant at or slightly above the soil line. Store your lettuce in a loose plastic bag in the refrigerator. When you are ready to use your lettuce, rinse the lettuce thoroughly in cool water, then dry the leaves using a salad spinner or a towel. Wilted lettuce can be revived by a soak in an ice-water bath to maintain crispy, crunchy leaves all summer long. For more information about growing lettuce, see this article by the University of Minnesota’s Marissa Schuh and Jill MacKenzie. Did you know that you can grow lettuce even during the coldest winters, using indoor hydroponics systems? Learn more about hydroponic lettuce in this article by the University of Minnesota’s Natalie Hoidal, Amanda Reardon, Leah Worth, and Mary Rogers. Links Used “Growing lettuce, endive and radicchio in home gardens” https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-lettuce-endive-and-radicchio “Small-scale hydroponics” https://extension.umn.edu/how/small-scale-hydroponics#lighting-2644462 Photo credits: Wikimedia https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b6/Red_leaf_lettuce_J1.JPG (1), pxhere https://c.pxhere.com/photos/c6/a2/lettuce_vegetables_food_eat_vitamins-1018166.jpg!d (2), flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/joi/506693397 (3)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.

< Back How to Select an Orchid Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you been intrigued about orchids but don’t know where to start or how to keep them alive? Or, are you already an orchid grower but want some expert tips? This article on orchids is the first of three by orchid expert, Paul Wood. The first article provides great advice about how to choose the right orchid for you. Read on to learn how you can begin to be an orchid grower – and lover! Orchids are the most popular potted indoor plants. The most popular type of orchid, by far, is the Phalaenopsis or, as it is commonly called “The Moth Orchid.” Advances in cloning have enabled commercial orchid growers to bring literally millions of Phalaenopsis orchids to market each year. Phalaenopsis plants (or Phal) can be found not only at garden centers, but at big box stores, grocery stores, and even farmer’s’ markets. As with any house plant you buy, success begins with buying a healthy plant that will thrive in the location you picked for it; orchids are no exception. It is the gardening mantra: “Right Plant, Right Place.” Phals are low light orchids and that is one reason they do well as an indoor plant. Here a few tips on how to select a healthy orchid using a Phal as an example. First look at the plant. Are the leaves firm, plump, nice and green, and spot free? Limp leaves or yellowing leaves usually mean the plant is not getting enough moisture and that can mean root problems or that the orchid has not been cared for by the retailer. Next examine the planting medium. Is the orchid in sphagnum moss or bark and is the medium moist? If the medium is really dry it means the orchid has not been tended to by the retailer and that lack of moisture can cause the roots to die. This brings us to selection introspection. If you are a person who tends to over water, look for an orchid that is in bark because it helps drain the extra water. Conversely, if you tend to ignore your indoor plants, consider an orchid that is in sphagnum moss because the moss will retain moisture and you will only have to water maybe once every three weeks. Now take a look at the roots. Orchids sold in retail stores are packaged in ceramic pots, however the orchid itself is in a clear plastic pot inside that pot. Simply tease the plastic pot out and take a look at the roots. A healthy orchid will have lots of green roots, and maybe some slate grey roots. If the roots are mostly brown, put it down! Brown roots are dead roots. Finally, examine the flower stem. Look for stems that are bright green and laden with flowers and lots of buds. The flowers should be alive and the buds plump. Fading flowers means the orchid is nearing the end of its bloom cycle and dried buds are not going produce any new flowers. Phals, with a modicum of care, will easily bloom for several months or more, so your selection goal is to maximize the bloom time. Never buy a Phal that is fully bloomed because you have no idea when the bloom cycle began, so you might only get a few weeks of show before the flowers begin to fade. Selecting an orchid is not that much different than selecting any other potted plant; you want a healthy plant. With the Phals you not only want to select a healthy plant but also a plant that will allow you to fully enjoy their long bloom time. This is achieved by buying buds not blossoms. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! Resources: GrowingBestPhalsPart_I.pdf ( aos.org ) Selecting an Orchid ( aos.org ) Orchids for Everyone: The Most Popular Orchid Genera and How to Identify Them ( psu.edu ) Photo Credits: Troy David Johnston; www.flickr.com (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back So, You Want to Grow Your Own Apples! Gardeners have an old saying – “Right plant, right place”! It’s fun to imagine walking out into your yard and picking apples from your own apple trees. But, of course, there are a few things to know before going to your local nursery and picking up your trees. Read this article to learn more and start visualizing those delicious apples! By Marjory Blare, Master Gardener It’s fun to imagine walking out into your yard and picking apples from your own apple trees. But, of course, there are a few things to know before going to your local nursery and picking up your trees. Before you start: Step 1 : Apple trees need two varieties to fruit. The second tree can be a crabapple that blooms at the same time as your tree. Step 2 : Evaluate the place you want to plant your apple tree(s). A. Does it get at least 6 hours (preferably 8) of full sun? B. Does it drain well? C. Is there enough room for the mature tree? Step 3 : Research cultivars before you got to a nursery. A. Any tree smaller than a standard is going to be grafted onto a rootstock that will determine the mature size. B. A standard size tree can grow between 20 and 30 feet tall. You will need 26 square feet. C. A semi-dwarf tree will be between 14 and 22 feet tall. It will need an area of about 20 square feet. D. Dwarf trees grow between 6 and 12 feet and need an area of about 14 feet square. A super-dwarf tree will need staking its entire life. E. For best pollination, make sure both cultivars are hardy in zone 4 and that the bloom time is the same. F. For more on root stocks: https://apples.extension.org/understanding-apple-tree-size-dwarf-semi-dwarf-and-standard/ One-year-old graft Super-dwarf rootstock Four-year-old graft semi-dwarf rootstock] Ten-year-old graft super-dwarf rootstock Step 4 : After you have a few cultivars in mind, it’s off to the nursery A. Make sure you have a good way to transport your tree(s). B. Cushion the branches and trunk when tying it down. C. The nursery may wrap the tree’s canopy for you, or you can cover it with a well tied-down tarp. D. Drive slowly, you don’t want the foliage to get wind-whipped. https://trees.umn.edu/sites/trees.umn.edu/files/files/best-planting-practices.pdf Step 5 : Prepare the planting site before you take the tree out of its container. Have water and back-fill ready. Water the back-fill when the hole is half full and again when it’s full. It’s good to have a slight mound around the hole to help direct the water. If necessary, have staking supplies ready. Step 6 : Planting your tree(s) A. Bare-root stock: this allows you to spread out the roots and easily make sure there are no stem-girdling roots. Stem-girdling roots grow around the trunk and as they increase in size, they can strangle the trunk. You can buy bare-root or wash the soil off a (smaller) container-grown tree. B. Container-grown stock: make sure to cut any stem-girdling roots and roots above the trunk flare (the bottom of the trunk gets wider before the roots start). https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-and-transplanting-trees-and-shrubs#container-grown-1399864 C. Ball-and-burlap stock: make sure you have help or hire someone to plant the tree. Again, inspect the trunk where it meets the soil ball to look for stem girdling roots. Step 7 : Check here https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples , for advice on aftercare, pest management and harvesting and storage. Happy growing! Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back Protecting Our Trees from Invasive Species Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” This article defines and identifies the invasive species that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” We’re looking at a two part definition. In the first part we see that these species are not native to Minnesota. We often use such terms as exotic, alien, introduced, etc. There is an implication that all invasive species come from outside the United States. This is not always the case. These new pests simply come from outside Minnesota. In the second part of our definition the key word is harm. We are concerned with those pathogens, plants, animals or insects that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) The number one new pest facing our trees in Dakota County is the emerald ash borer (EAB) . The nearest confirmed sighting is in the area of Fort Snelling in Hennepin County and Highland Park in Ramsey County. The general rule that the insect can travel by itself somewhere between 13-15 miles in a given year implies that within a short period of time we will have confirmed sightings within Dakota County. Do you know the symptoms to look for? The first thing to look for is increased woodpecker activity. These birds know a tasty treat when they find one. This increased activity normally happens in the second year after EAB infestation and is followed by vertical splits in the bark and sometimes defoliation in the tree canopy. A closer inspection could then reveal the large s-shaped galleries under the bark and the D-shaped exit holes. These symptoms generally confirm that the tree has been infected. Gypsy Moth The second pest that we all need to be aware of is the gypsy moth . It attacks several varieties of trees but here in Minnesota aspens and oak seem to be the favorite. The gypsy moth caterpillars are capable of defoliating acres of trees. It has arrived in Minnesota! Not necessarily here in Dakota County, but it has invaded out state. Lake and Cook counties in the Arrowhead region have reached the point where they will be experiencing the first steps in a quarantine . How will it affect us? Most of us will not be directly affected. But if we have property in these counties or intend to vacation there we will feel the impact. Thousand Canker Disease Thousand Canker Disease is a third new pest that affects black walnuts. It is a fungus carried by the walnut twig beetle. When it enters the bark it leaves behind a fungus that causes a canker. If you have any black walnut trees you need to be concerned and be able to recognize it. For the rest of us you do need to know that it is now the law that black walnut wood of any size or shape cannot be imported into Minnesota. A quarantine is in effect that makes this illegal. Asian Longhorn Beetle The fourth pest emerging in Minnesota is the Asian Longhorn Beetle . While poplars, maples and box elders seem to be the preferred trees in Minnesota it also feeds on several other varieties which makes it especially dangerous. Signs and symptoms include crown die-back, shallow depressions in the bark where the eggs are laid, sap seeping from these egg niches, pencil-size round exit holes and a sawdust on the top of branches or on the ground surrounding the tree. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug Two new and emerging pests do not actually kill the tree but both will damage the fruit the tree produces. The first is the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug . It has been found in several Minnesota counties and is considered a pest because it feed on fruit and vegetables. The insect is also considered a nuisance as it invades houses and other buildings in the fall seeking warmth. When disturbed, it emits a foul odor. Spotted Wing Drosophila Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD) is also a new and emerging pest and has been found in 20 counties in Minnesota. It is similar to a fruit fly. But unlike the typical fruit fly that feeds on damaged fruit, SWD feeds on intact, healthy, ripening fruit, especially thin-skinned berries. The female can pierce the soft skin and lay its eggs. In doing so there is also a possibility of an introduction of rot and fungus. So far in Minnesota the favorite has been raspberries. It has been known to attack apples and other tree bearing fruits. Oriental Bittersweet In our training one invasive plant was discussed. Oriental Bittersweet has been found in Dakota County in Burnsville and Eagan. It is a vine that can grow over 60 feet long and will girdle and smother trees and shrubs. It is spread by rhizomes and seeds, mainly through birds ingesting and then eliminating the seeds. Through this natural action, entire plant communities have been known to be overwhelmed. iI becomes our job to eradicate it. What Can I Do? We still need to answer one important question. What should be done if you suspect you have found one of these tree pests? There is an “Arrest the Pest” hotline you can email at arrest.the.pest@state.mn.us or by phone at 888-545-6684. Doing so could help us protect our native trees.

Request a Speaker Master Gardeners are available to speak to garden clubs, at workplace seminars or other groups about a wide variety of garden-related topics. We have access to the latest university based research, attend educational seminars throughout the year and have personal interest in many aspects of gardening. Here is a list of just some of the topics we are able to present to your group. Don’t see what you are looking for? Contact our Speakers Bureau and we can help. ​ Please remember that our Speaker Bureau program is run by volunteers and we therefore ask for your patience. Please allow 3-5 business days for a reply. Ideally, we ask that you request speakers a minimum of 4-6 weeks before your event although more urgent requests will be considered and fulfilled whenever possible. We appreciate your understanding. Popular Topics Annuals Bee friendly plants Beekeeping Blueberries Container gardening Composting Herbs Houseplants Invasive plants and pests Orchids Putting your gardens to bed Shade gardening Spring bulbs Square foot gardening Seeding starting Vegetables And more!! ​ Request a Speaker First Name Last Name Email Write a message. Please include the location for the presentation. Submit Your request has been sent.

< Back The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Who knew that the life of an “agricultural explorer” could be both fascinating and suspenseful. Read this review of book, “The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats” to learn why food exploration can be exciting! Reviewed By Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener A century ago, the American table was a simpler place. Vegetables and fruit were limited to what could be grown in the home garden or found in a grocery store. Some of the items missing from that world? Kale, mangoes, avocados, seedless grapes, zucchini, soybeans, pistachios, Meyer lemons, and more. Then along came botanist David Fairchild (1869-1954), the Indiana Jones of the plant world. In his book The Food Explorer: The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats (2018), author David Stone uses Fairchild’s journals, letters, and photographs to document the extraordinary journeys of the man who changed American culinary life forever. This is a riveting tale of exploration and horticulture, of espionage and diplomacy, of the finest German hops and the famed cherry blossom trees of Washington, D.C. Fairchild’s story takes him from Kansas to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, where he works with a meager budget assisting the American farmer fighting crop fungus. Then a chance meeting with a wealthy benefactor named Barbour Lathrop allows the young man to leave his post and travel as a private citizen, circling the globe on a mission to ship back samples of exotic plants and seeds as an “agricultural explorer,” as he refers to himself. Fairfield’s team transports both plants completely new and foreign varieties of species already known in the United States. Along the way, Fairchild and his team escape dangerous situations, face political resistance from multiple governments, and cross paths with famous figures like the Wright Brothers and Alexander Graham Bell. When Fairchild settles down at the age of 34, he founds the Office of Seed and Plant Introduction with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, which introduces over 200,000 new plant species and varieties to the country. This book is highly recommended to foodies, gardeners, and history buffs alike. It can be found in the Dakota County Library system.