< Back Have a Sunny Garden? Try These Perennials Kristina Valle, Dakota County Master Gardener Do you have an area of your garden that receives 6 to 8 hours of sun each day? If so, you will want to plant “sun perennials” in that space. Perennials that prefer a sunny location should thrive in your yard, assuming, of course, that you provide them with healthy soil, ample water, and some tender loving care. Read this article for profiles of “sun perennials” for every season between the frost dates. Calling all sun worshipers! Since I have a north facing house position, my front yard is mostly shady. Most of the plant color in my yard is found in the back yard, where the southern light creates the perfect environment for my sun-seeking perennials to blossom. In this article I will feature my top 3 full-sun-perennials for each season, that will ensure a constant show of color in your garden from last to first frost. The plants featured below perform best in full sun, which is defined as 6+ hours of direct sunlight a day. Spring These early bloomers pop up in our gardens as winter gives way to spring, seeking out the sun that has already begun to warm the soil. Yarrow This is the most eager plant in my garden and the fern-like leaves are already pushing through the soil. I especially love this hard-working plant for its ability to choke out weeds which it succeeded in doing last year in a problem area of my garden. The plant comes in a variety of colors and heights that are sure to suit any color scheme or garden size. It is important to note, however, that it can be aggressive so plan carefully. Bloom Duration : early spring to late fall. Fernleaf Yarrow Creeping Phlox My rock wall signals the first colors of spring as the matted green leaves appear, giving way to bright, florescent shades of pink, purple, and white flowers. This is a great ground cover and can be tucked in between rocks in an alpine garden. You can get a second bloom later in the growing season by deadheading any spent blooms. Bloom duration : 3-4 weeks Salvia Perennial Salvia is a great addition to the garden if you want to support our early pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Salvia is a drought tolerant choice that holds steady through our dry spells. It needs at least 8+ hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. Depending on the variety, this plant can range in size from 1’ to 5’, giving you multiple options for garden placement. To encourage multiple bloom cycles, trim off the spent flowers, or if it is under blooming, you can cut the plant back mid-summer to encourage more blooms. Bloom duration : 6-8 weeks in spring and then after a haircut, into late summer/fall. Summer By the time summer rolls around, the heat is reaching new heights and as we have seen in the past few years, rolling drought puts a lot of strain on our plants. Luckily, these sun-loving perennials are built to withstand some weather-related strain. Common Milkweed Beautiful and fragrant purple/pink poms top off THE host plant for the Monarch butterfly. Even planting one milkweed plant in your yard will help support future generations of this at-risk butterfly. Once hatched, the young caterpillars will feast on the leaves so be cautious using chemicals around this plant. Common Milkweed is best placed in the center or the back of your garden due to its height, which averages around 3’-5.’ The seeds pods should be collected at the end of the season to prevent reseeding. Bloom duration : June – September. Hardy Geranium - G. Rozanne If you are looking for a sprawling, prolific bloomer, this is your plant. The violet-blue petals persist through the heat of summer and into fall, attracting bees and hummingbirds. This low maintenance plant really pulls its weight in the garden, but if it starts to lag, you can prune it back mid-season to rejuvenate it. Stunning along a border, or in the garden where you can create a cascading effect. Blooming Duration : Early Summer – Late fall. Coneflower (Echinacea) A garden staple, the coneflower supports pollinators in spring and summer, and provides seeds to songbirds (like Goldfinch) throughout the fall and winter months. When choosing a coneflower, opt for a less showy bloom with a single blossom to attract more pollinators. Think of the center of the flower as a landing pad. If it is obstructed by a complex petal structure, pollinators may find the flower less attractive and move on in search of flowers easier to access. To ensure a long bloom season, deadhead the spent flowers to promote a second flush of blooms. Blooming Duration : July – September. Autumn Cooler temperatures are followed by fading flowers and the promise of garden cleanup before the snow flies. Luckily, the color show does not have to end. These plants will round out the year with their warm, vivid colors. Aster Aside from its striking color amid a dulling floral background, this plant plays a critical role in continuing the nourishment of late season pollinators. Great for filling out a space in the garden that is abundant in spring and summer bloomers, to keep the color rolling into fall. You can cut these down to the ground once the first frost arrives or wait until spring to allow birds to enjoy the seeds through winter. Blooming Duration : August – October Sedum As a member of the stonecrop family, Autumn Joy Sedum is unique. The taller varieties, which can grow up to 24”, have large succulent leaves and tight clusters of flowers that deepen to rose or salmon as the temperatures cool in the fall. This variety is perfect in a garden where spring and summer blooming flowers have faded. Creeping sedum is used as a ground cover and is well suited for rocky landscapes with dry soil conditions where it is harder to grow other types of plants. Blooming Duration : Late summer into fall. Autumn Joy Stonecrop Hardy Mums A true sign of fall, this beautiful plant comes in a multitude of colors and is prized for its late season blooms. It is important to note that there are two distinct types of mums: the “hardy mum” and the “florist mum.” “Florist mums” are typically found at the end of the season at grocery or hardware stores. They are not adapted to our winters and are mainly a short-lived decorative plant. A “hardy mum” may need to be sourced out of a catalogue or special ordered from your nursery and should be planted in the spring to encourage root establishment through the year. Once established, you will be rewarded with a reliable display of color into fall each year. Bloom Duration : Late summer – Late fall. It is important to remember that while there are many plants that are versatile in their light requirements, with the ability to exist in a range of sun exposures, plants do have a best sun exposure which should be adhered to as much as possible to ensure that your plant is in a space where it can reach its full potential. These sun perennials need full sun to perform their best and to delight you year after year. Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Mike Myers, Flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3), Stockbridge School of Agriculture ( UMass.edu ) (4), Penn State Extension; extension.psu.edu (5), Horticulture and Home Pest News; iastate.edu (6), UW Arboretum ( wisc.edu ) (7), PNW Plants ( wsu.edu ) (8), Illinois Extension (UIUC) (9)

< Back Square Foot Gardening Do you want to grow vegetables in your garden but you don’t have a lot of space or you only have one sunny spot or your soil isn’t conducive to growing or you just want a few vegetables for your family? Square foot gardening may be your answer. This approach will save time, work, space, and water. And, you will produce some delicious vegetables for your family. Read this article for more information about why square foot gardening may be for you and how to get started. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener With a short growing season, gardeners want high yields of fresh produce from their vegetable gardens, yet many people have limited space suitable for growing. “Square Foot Gardening” is a method of gardening with the underlying premise of producing a greater variety of vegetables in a small space. It is also intended to make gardening more accessible to a greater number of people. According to the Square Foot Gardening Foundation website , this method is, “estimated to cost 50% less, use 20% less space, 10% of the water, and 2% of the work”. They state there will be almost no weeds and you save time and effort because you don’t have to dig, rototill, or use heavy equipment, and fertilizers aren’t needed. It almost sounds too good to be true! However, many people have used this method successfully for 25 years. In the U.S., our standard gardening approach is to plant in rows. This is how many of us have done it for generations, passed down through our families. We have developed tools that support this approach for watering and weeding between the rows, using mulch papers or rototillers small enough for a row. We have row markers, seed tapes, and many other gardening supplies that support the row gardening approach. According to Bartholomew, this approach makes gardening harder than it needs to be with much of the growing space given over to aisles between the plants, resulting in a need to constantly weed those non-growing areas. He also argues that planting in rows results in overplanting. He uses the example of planting cabbages, suggesting few people find it useful to have 30 cabbage heads ripening at the same time. Square foot gardening suggests a different approach that carefully spaces plants to efficiently use space, manage the size of the harvest, and allow for successive planting, e.g., growing multiple crops in one growing season. Instead of sowing seeds and then having to thin the plants, this approach suggests placing the seeds at the distance you’d thin the plants. For example, if the seed packet says thin to 6 inches between plants, you can just space your seeds out that distance in all directions within the square. You can put a ‘pinch’ of seeds in each planting site to increase the chances of germination and instead of thinning, snip out the unneeded plants. This lessens the chance of disturbing or weaking the roots of the plant you are keeping. Most square foot gardens are 4 feet x 4 feet raised beds. They can be other sizes; however, you will want to make sure you can reach all areas of the bed without stepping on the soil. Stepping on soil compacts it, which makes it more difficult for plants to grow. The soil in the raised bed should be a mix of compost, vermiculite, and peat moss. The location of the square foot garden is important, with sufficient sunlight important and access to a water source. Bartholomew suggests placing it near the house so you always have a visual on your growing plants. Within the 4 x 4 space (or whatever size bed being used), a grid of 1 foot x 1 foot squares are laid to mark out each plot. In a 4 x 4 bed, you will have 16 squares in which to plant. The number of plants or seeds you grow in each square is dependent on the full size of the vegetable or flower. For example, in the 1 ft x 1 ft square, you could grow one tomato, or four heads of lettuce, or eight bunches of swiss chard, or sixteen carrots, or thirty-two radishes. Once you have harvested the vegetable, a new crop can be planted. Since one of the other premises of Square Foot Gardening is reducing the need for fertilizer, Bartholomew says you only need to add a shovel of compost prior to each new planting. Square foot gardening will meet the needs of many gardeners. However, those wanting to produce large harvests for canning, freezing, and other methods of preserving, may not find they get the quantities they want using this method. For those wanting a manageable amount of produce, this may be a great way to help limit the amount grown, although if you grow a zucchini plant, you will probably still need to sneak around after dark ‘bestowing’ your bounty on your neighbors’ doorsteps. References: Square Foot Gardening Foundation: https://squarefootgardening.org/ All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew Square Foot Gardening. Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia Square foot gardening: a formula for successful intensive gardening. Michigan State University Extension Photo credits: Master Gardener Program of North Virginia (1), Michigan State Extension (2)

< Back The Food Explorer (The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Do you ever wonder where the tasty vegetables, fruits and spices we consume come from? No, I am not talking about the grocery store, or your backyard garden. I am talking about where in the world they originated and how they got to North America. Enjoy this review of “The Food Explorer” by Daniel Stone. And I am certain that you will be tempted to click on your Amazon app and purchase the book! Review by Linda Holt, Master Gardener Did you ever wonder where your banana came from? Or how about that juicy navel orange you crave every morning not only for its sweetness but also for the healthy dose of Vitamin C it provides? Avocados, surely, they are a California staple, along with the almonds we enjoy in everything from the true nut to the almond milk used as a substitute for dairy milk (originally brought to California from Spain by the Franciscan Padres). I must admit that I have always been under the false assumption that America just had these treasures in abundance when this country was founded. I, like many Americans, assumed that the variety of food grown in my garden or purchased from farmers markets and grocery stores, has always been a part of our heritage. However, “The Food Explorer,” corrects the false idea that the incredible wealth of fruit, vegetables, nuts, and even cotton, that we enjoy originated in the United States. This fascinating book explains the origin of these plants from many varied countries and jungles around the world. Author Daniel Stone, armed with a multitude of seemingly endless journals, letters and records, shares the delightful and fascinating story of David Fairchild, a late-nineteenth century food explorer and his benefactor Barbour Lathrop, a wealthy, private citizen whom he met aboard a ship bound for Italy. As a 20-year-old botanist, David left his Kansas home to work for the Department of Agriculture. There he studied ways to combat plant fungus. Along with a colleague named Wallace Swingle, he created a new government agency that they called the “Office of Seed and Plant Introduction”. Between the years of 1894 and 1904, David (consumed by his wanderlust for travel) searched the far reaches of the world for the unusual and delectable. Over that time he transported an inventory of over 4,000 plants; including avocados and watermelons from Chili, Soy Beans from Indonesia, Meyer Lemons from China, nectarines from Pakistan, kale from Croatia, hops from Bavaria and pomegranates from Malta to name a few. It wasn’t always easy, as some of the plants would not survive the journey or due to the abundance of plants and the lack of qualified people to handle them at home, some would eventually die before they could be moved and reproduced. Additionally, he suffered diseases, bargained with island tribes and was once arrested. One of the most fascinating things that Daniel Stone contributed to our nation is the introduction of the cherry blossom tree from Japan. After David fell in love with and married Marian Hubbard Bell (daughter of Alexander Graham Bell), he decided to relinquish his extensive travels and purchase a 10 acre parcel located near Chevy Chase Maryland. There he began to fill the space with his favorite trees and shrubs that he found during his travels. Marian had only one plant request: the Japanese flowering Cherry tree that she referred to as “Cherry Blossom.” The consequential history of this famous tree that outlines the DC Capitol streets is quite extensive and is best read rather than condensed herein. David Fairchild did lead an enviable life that was made possible by happenstance and living during a time period known as “the Gilded Age,” a time of rapid economic growth and industrialization. His story, as told by Daniel Stone, is a fascinating read. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did! Photo credits: book jacket

< Back Bug Hotels and Pollinator Habitats Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Insect populations are at risk around the globe, with 40% of all insect species in decline and roughly one third of all species endangered. Between the loss of habitat, climate change, and the extensive use of pesticides, our bees, butterflies, and beetles are dying off in unprecedented numbers. This seems an overwhelming problem, but it is one that all gardeners can begin to remedy. As Archbishop Desmond Tutu once said, “There is only one way to eat an elephant: a bite at a time.” No matter the size of the garden, every gardener has steps they can take in order to make positive changes for the insects we all need to keep our planet healthy. Let’s focus on two insect populations: bees and caterpillars. Bees The majority of flowers and about one third of all crops depend upon pollination. When these populations are threatened, so is food security. For an extreme example, consider the farmers of Sichuan province in China who hand paint pollen onto their fruit trees because insecticides have killed off bee populations. Somewhere between 60-70% of bee species dig burrows in the ground, while the remaining 30-40% nest in cavities such as holes in trees or hollow stems. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: For ground-nesting bees, provide areas in your garden with undisturbed soil, keeping insecticides away. For cavity-nesting bees, leave stems of varying lengths (8-24”) over winter and don’t trim back until after spring. Provide a water source for mud-building bees. For bumblebees who need insulation to build nests, provide a brush pile with sticks and leaves. Consider a bug hotel to provide more spaces for cavity-nesting bees—you can build one yourself or find a ready-made bug hotel for purchase. Caterpillars While most gardeners love bees, caterpillars are often seen as a problem in the garden—and for a good reason. Hornworms decimate tomato plants and cabbage loopers devour all sorts of edible greens. However, entomologist and conservationist Doug Tallamy argues that since caterpillars dominate the nesting diets of the majority of birds, these insects are necessary for healthy bird populations. For example, 75% of the food chickadees bring their young is caterpillars. While some caterpillars eat a variety of plants and can be considered generalists, many caterpillars are specialists that only eat one particular plant. Monarch butterflies, of course, rely upon milkweed flowers alone, while goldenrods are eaten by 80-plus different kinds of caterpillars. A Few Solutions for the Home Gardener: Go to Native Plant Finder ( https://www.nwf.org/NativePlantFinder/Plants/Flowers-and-Grasses ) to look up which flowers best attract beneficial caterpillars in your area as generalists. Consider specialist caterpillars you want to attract and plant the flower or tree they rely upon. Convert some of your lawn to native wildflowers and grasses. If you don’t have a lawn, try a container garden of native wildflowers. Add a bed of native wildflowers and grasses below any trees that host caterpillars; this provides a soft, protected space for the caterpillars’ transformation. Use mosquito dunk tablets instead of mosquito sprays to control those populations. Even sprays that say they only target mosquitos have been shown to hurt other insects. For More: Bee Lab (University of Minnesota). https://beelab.umn.edu Davies, Dave. “The World's Insect Population Is in Decline—And That's Bad News for Humans,” Fresh Air , (February 24, 2022). https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2022/02/24/1082752634/the-insect-crisis-oliver-milman Habitat Installation Guide: Upper Midwest. Xerces Society. https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/15-042.pdf Homegrown National Park. https://homegrownnationalpark.org/ Millman, Oliver. The Insect Crisis: The Fall of the Tiny Empires That Run the World. New York, NY: W.W. Norton & Company, 2022. Native Plant Finder. https://www.nwf.org/nativeplantfinder/ Photo Credit: John McLinden ( https://www.flickr.com/photos/fogey03/34605941461 ) (1)

< Back January, A Perfect Time to Re-Design Your Landscape Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener When January brings us huge snowdrifts and blustery winds do you think of Spring? Yes, it’s the perfect time to be thinking about your flower and vegetable gardens and begin making plans for re-designing your landscape. If you have these thoughts, then click on the link to learn more about basic landscape design concepts and current 2024 trends in landscaping. Landscape design is so much more than picking out the right plants for a given area. It can be so overwhelming at first that many of us put it off and live with our overgrown jungle that was landscaped 20 years ago. But the first step to landscape design is to come up with a comprehensive plan that can be tackled over time making it easier for Do-It-Yourselfers. There are many books written about landscape design but I hope to address some of the basic concepts in this short article. There are five parts to a sustainable design: 1) Functional; 2) Maintainable; 3) Environmentally Sound; 4) Cost Effective; and 5) Visually Pleasing. 1) Functional: What do you need the space to do for you. Examples include: play area for children, garden area, kitchen patio, boat, trash, or firewood storage, utilities, dog kennels, and access to the front and backyard are just a few examples of function that you should consider. 2) Maintainable : Similar to function, maintainable addresses planning for mowing areas so you don’t have to use a trimmer, creating a screen planting to provide privacy, and planning for snow storage and ice/sand/salt usage. How large a space can you take care of. Maintenance is a huge consideration in landscape design. 3) Environmentally Sound: Addresses the need to reduce the amount of fertilizer, pesticides, equipment, water, and labor usage. Rain gardens, plants that require limited mowing and pruning, and eliminating invasive plant species are just a few examples. 4) Cost Effective: You must not only factor in the initial cost of the project but also, the cost of annual maintenance in your design both in materials as well as labor. 5) Visually Pleasing: Yes, of course it needs to look good. This consideration also gets involved with plant selection, what gardeners love doing the most. Planting the right plant that will adapt to the light, water, and soil conditions is imperative in landscape design. While the basic concepts of landscape design remain consistent year over year, design elements do change over time. Below I have listed 5 of the 10 2024 Garden Design trends by GardenDesign.com . These 5 trends seemed to be consistent but not limited to other trend articles that I reviewed: 1) “Enhancing Your Garden with Edimentals” : Edimentals are plants that usually live more than one year such as shrubs, perennials, and trees. Examples include daylilies, currants, gooseberries, elderberries, fennel and asparagus. Including annual edible plants such as kale, rainbow chard, and nasturtiums can also be considered. 2) “Exploring Naturalistic Planting & the New Perennial Movement” : This consists of primarily native plants with a less manicured look to mirror nature, but it doesn’t have to been completely unmanicured. The focus is on a blend of plants that invite pollinators and wildlife. (Read Jim Lakin’s monthly Garden Buzz articles on “native” plants for ideas about plants that are appropriate for Minnesota gardens.) 3) “Preserving Every Drop with Eco-Friendly Rain Gardens” : Yes, establishing a rain garden to limit water runoff into sewers. 4) “Learning to Love Bugs”: Reducing the use of pesticides is the trend here. Becoming more tolerant of bugs and understanding that there are beneficial insects. Note, certain bugs are attracted to specific species (i.e. monarch butterfly and milkweed, rusty patched bumble bees like lupines, asters, bee balm, native prairie plants, and spring ephemerals). But of course, there are bugs that are on the invasive list such as jumping worms, pine bark beetle, and lantern fly. 5) “Adapting and Growing with a Changing Climate” : In the last few months, the USDA published a new plant zone map. Many areas across the nation and in our neck of the woods have become hotter. Adapting for this change in your plant selection process is imperative as you look to designing your future landscape. I hope you can enjoy planning, prepping, and planting your new garden bed(s) in the next few months. Check out our website resources for many articles on the topics discussed above. And spend your January dreaming and planning for your beautiful 2024 garden. Resources: Creating a Home Landscape, You Can Love & Enjoy/Sustainable Landscape Design Basics for Homeowner, Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Workshop, James B. Calkins, Ph. D, 2022. GardenDesign.com , Research Garden Design, 2024 Trends in Garden Design by Rebecca Sweet, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service ( fws.gov ) Rusty Patched Bumble Bee https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov ; USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1,3), gartenideenherbst.blogspot.com/All Creative Commons (2)

< Back Ethnic Heritage Food Joy Johnson, Master Gardener With the onset of cold weather, embrace your comfort food roots. Joy Johnson shares two of her family’s comfort recipes. Try them and they may become your new comfort food recipes. With the onset of cold weather, my thoughts and appetite go back to the “good old days” when I was a kid. The foods my mother, grandmother and aunts prepared always seemed to be just what I needed. Today we call that ‘comfort food’, going back to what made you feel good as a kid. Thinking back to those wonderful meals, I realize that I have a divided gastronomic family. Half of it is Hungarian and half of it is German. I have terrific recipes from both sides of the family. One year we grew over 30 cabbages. My young daughter and her friend were having such a fun time planting, that I just let them keep going and didn’t realize what I huge harvest we’d have. We fermented over 30 quarts of sauerkraut that year. The soup recipe below is a delicious one to try if you have homemade sauerkraut. It works well with the store-bought kind too. I think it’s fun to try new recipes, especially if they are someone else’s ‘tried and true’ ones, because then you know they’ve been taste tested and honed to perfection over the years. Here are two family tested recipes, one from my Hungarian side and one from my German side. Hmmm, it’s kind of funny, but my mom started serving them both at the same meal, with additional Hungarian dishes on the side. That’s now our newish family tradition, a delicious mixture in one comforting and very satisfying meal. Sauerkraut Soup (from the German side) 1 quart sauerkraut; rinse, squeeze, chop 1 pound Polska Kolbasi sausage ½ cup rice (I use brown rice) Brown flour for thickening (2/3 cup flour toasted in 3 tablespoons butter. Stir constantly until flour turns golden brown) 1 teaspoon caraway seed Cut sausage into bit size slices, cover with water and cook a few minutes to remove fat. Remove slices from water, save water, refrigerate so fat will harden. Remove hardened fat from water and discard. Add sauerkraut and caraway seeds to this water, cook about 15 minutes, add sausage slices, cook 10 minutes, whisk water into the browned flour in a separate bowl until smooth, add a little of this to the soup, add rice. Cook slowly until the rice is done. DON’T add all the browned flour mix at once, see how it thickens, it varies depending on how much water you started with. Bobyka (from the Hungarian side) Take any white bread recipe (or frozen bread dough works). Take a portion of the dough, place in palms of your hands, rubbing back and forth, make it like a rope about a half inch in diameter. Cut into 1-inch pieces and roll them into balls in the palm of your hand. Place on a greased cookie sheet (or cover it with parchment paper). Bake until golden brown at 375 degrees for 15-18 minutes. Immerse them in boiling water for just a few minutes ‘til softened, not too long or they will fall apart. Melt ¼ cup butter, add dough balls (bobykas), add about 1 tablespoon ground poppyseed and about 1 tablespoon honey. Serve warm. They taste like little breadsticks.

< Back Beware of Periwinkle Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Periwinkle is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant that was once touted as a great ground cover. It grows very well in most conditions and have pretty green leaves and purple flowers. But now Periwinkle is on some invasive species lists. If you have Periwinkle in your yard, you probably know why. Read this article to understand the problems Periwinkle can pose in your yard and how you can manage them. Periwinkle, also known as Vinca Minor, Creeping Myrtle, Running Myrtle, and Lesser Periwinkle, is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant that was once touted as a great ground cover. But now Periwinkle is listed on the Farm Services Agency USDA Invasive plant list and the invasive species-extension.org list. I was one of those individuals who bought a 3-inch pot of periwinkle and planted it in my wooded backyard. And yes, it grew very well and looked beautiful with green vegetation and purple flowers. It contained the weeds, therefore, maintenance free. What more could I ask for? And then . . . I noticed it crowded out my lilies of the valley, hostas, and ferns. I have since battled the plant trying to contain it within a small area. This article will introduce you to Periwinkle and discuss how to manage it. Common periwinkle was first introduced to the U.S. from Europe in the 1700s as an ornamental. The green stems are slender but woody in appearance. The green leaves are glossy and about an inch long. Some of the varieties of periwinkle have variegated leaf color. The flowers are generally purple to blue. The flowers resemble a phlox flower with 5 lobes and it blooms in May and June. It grows in sun, part-shade, and shady areas from dry to most soil. In other words, it adapts well to many surroundings especially shady areas. It is low growing at approximately 4-8 inches in height but its vine can be as long as 6.6 feet But Periwinkle can take over wooded areas, forests, bluffs, and old homesites due to its dense matting. Because of this, Periwinkle is listed as invasive in other parts of the U.S., including Wisconsin - but not yet Minnesota. As a homeowner what can you do about the Periwinkle problem? There are several action steps you can take: Don’t buy/acquire it If you have it on your property, try and contain or eradicate it. Educate others. Now that you know it is an invasive plant elsewhere, you can tell others about it. How do you get rid of it? There are several manual ways to get rid of periwinkle: Hand pull it - but be sure to wear gloves! You will need to pull it fairly close to the ground to make sure the vines/roots don’t break off, Rake it. Raking the dense mats in large areas will get some of the vines and roots up. Dig it up. Use a shovel or pitchfork and remove excess soil from the roots. Be careful to get all the roots. Mow it or string trim it. You can mow it and then dig it up. Mowing can help contain it. Avoid rotary tillers because any root left in the soil will just grow back. Smother it with cardboard and mulch. Cut, pull up, or rake up as much of the vinca first. Then add a layer of cardboard and 3 inches of mulch on top of the cardboard to smother the plant. You may have to apply multiple times to fully eliminate. If you must use an herbicide, be aware that the plant leaves are waxy, and therefore, herbicides may not work as effectively or may need a second application. Trimming with a string trimmer, and then applying the herbicide may work better to reach the stems of the plant. Periwinkle can appear to be an attractive option if you are looking for a ground cover for tough areas. But, as this article shows, you may want to avoid this plant unless you are up for managing its massive spreading habit. Sources: https://invasive-species.extension.org/vinca-minor-common-periwinkle/ https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/periwinkle https://www.fsa.usda.gov/sites/default/files/documents/appendixe.pdf https://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=461054 Photo credits: www.uniprot.org (all creative commons) 1, www.forestryimages.org (all creative commons) 2

< Back How To Prepare New Fruit Trees for the Winter Months Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Here are some steps you can take throughout the year for the greatest chance of success no matter what Mother Nature throws at you! During the growing season - thin the smallest fruits from your tree to encourage growth of larger fruits (cherries are an exception). If too much fruit is on the tree, nutrients are more dispersed leading to smaller fruit this season and less fruit for the following year. For apples and pears, thin to 1-2 fruits per spur for every 6 inches of branch. For apples, this is done before the fruit is the width of a marble in June or July. Make sure there aren't any ripe fruits left on the tree so limbs do not break from the extra weight. Your fruit tree is going to need some training to become fully winter hardy and survive the cold temperatures. Hold off on the fertilizer after July. This includes any lawn areas within 20 feet of your tree. You don’t want to stimulate growth and delay the hardening-off process. This gradual process starts up in the buds and ends in the trunk. At the end of the season (October and November) - clean the fallen fruits and leaves off the ground around your tree. Skipping this step creates more opportunities for fungal disease and insect issues for the following spring. Keep this type of litter out of your compost pile to reduce disease in your yard overall in case pathogens are present. Adding 3 inches of organic mulch around the base of your tree helps retain water and will insulate the soil around your plant’s roots. Think of it as tucking in your plant with a nice mulch blankie but not too tight! Make sure to keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk and continue to provide adequate amounts of water until the ground is frozen. If the weather turns too cold too quickly, the tree can be damaged. There can also be damage if the weather turns unseasonably warm in the winter. White plastic guards or tree wrap should be applied to the trunk in November. These will help reflect the sun’s rays so the tree’s cells don’t wake up on those nice warm and sunny days, re-freeze and damage the trunk’s tissues. Just make sure to take those guards off again in the spring so it doesn’t create a haven for fungi. Take a moment and put a reminder in your calendar right now! Plum tree protection Cut down any plants at the base of your tree or around your shrub to prevent unwanted creatures from nibbling on the trunk during the winter. Bury ¼ inch mesh galvanized hardware cloth up to 4 inches in the ground to prevent small rodents from nibbling and girdling the trunk of the tree. Imagine there’s snow on the ground and how high a rabbit (not a rodent but equally as destructive) could reach. Leave enough room with meshing for the tree to grow into over a few seasons as well as any stakes for new trees the first year. Large fencing and tubes can be used to minimize deer browse and antler rubbing. Once temperatures have plummeted, enjoy your time off from tree care! In the late winter or early spring, after the severely cold temperatures have passed, it’s time to prune your fruit trees. For trees less than three years old, opt for later rather than earlier. Young apple tree needing pruning With some preparations and a little luck, you’ll be enjoying the fruits of your labor this coming growing season! Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples https://extension.umaine.edu/fruit/growing-fruit-trees-in-maine/preparing-trees-for-winter/ https://extension.unh.edu/blog/2020/10/how-do-i-prepare-my-backyard-fruits-winter https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/fruit#stone-fruits-2394860 https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-newly-planted-trees-and-shrubs https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/em-9598-fruit-thinning https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/white-tailed-deer-damage#netting%2C-tubes-or-other-protective-structures-1880562 Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), Amanda Drews (2)

< Back Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera): A Speedy Giant Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener You may not be familiar with the Tulip tree, June’s native tree of the month, because until now our climate was not suitable. Although climate change is an existential threat to our planet, or at least to our species, it has made growing tulip trees a possibility in southern Minnesota and the Twin Cities. Aside from its intriguing name, the Tulip tree has lots attributes that make it an attractive option for your garden. Read this article to learn more. Although climate change is an existential threat to our planet, or at least to our species, it has made growing tulip trees a possibility in southern Minnesota and the Twin Cities (USDA Zone 5). Although native to the Eastern Midwest, it has been planted widely in more western regions and has become a candidate for Minnesota. It is hardy through zone 5 but with a bit of pampering will do all right in Zone 4. Why pamper? Because it is a gorgeous shade tree. In zone 5 or warmer it grows rapidly to 70 to 130 feet with a width of 30 to 60 feet. It then can live on for centuries. In Zone 4 it is a shorter plant but that may not be a drawback. The tulip tree rewards with spring-time flowers that resemble tulips. tulip tree flower It provides generous shade in summer with its smooth green broadly lobed leaves. In fall the tulip tree will put on quite a show with shimmering gold and yellow colors. The native tulip tree is quite pollinator friendly, attracting bees and hummingbirds when flowering. Later in the season, bobwhites, rabbits and squirrels feed on the seeds. Tulip trees are also known as ‘yellow poplar,’ and ‘tulip poplar’ although they are members of the magnolia family, Magnoliaceae. The tulip tree has quite a history. They were popular with early settlers for railroad ties and fence posts because of the strength of the wood. Native Americans as well as Daniel Boone used the wood to construct canoes. tulip tree If you want to give the tulip tree a go, select an area with full sun (at least 6 hours per day). Also, you’ll want a moist soil with good drainage. It is quite pH tolerant doing well in either acid or alkaline conditions although you would do well to amend the soil with quite a bit of compost when planting. It’s okay to plant from spring to late fall. You will want to mulch the roots quite a bit as they are shallow. Also, a growing tree needs lots of water, so keep an eye on it throughout the summer. As these guys get tall quickly, you will want to be careful where you site your specimen. After the first season, you should see rapid growth of a relatively maintenance-free shade tree for you and you family to enjoy for generations. Photo credits: Wikimedia Commons (1,2)

< Back The Enchanting World of Fairy Gardening Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a way to engage the child in your life with the outdoors?! Look no further… read here to learn about the fun and enchanting art of fairy gardening- a creative way of gardening with endless possibilities for the young and young at heart! Capture your child’s imagination as they create a small garden meant to attract the tiny magical beings, called garden fairies. Often found at the edge of the tended garden, garden lore says these guardians of nature are masters of disguise and appear in gardens as small animals, little creatures, or brightly colored orbs of light. Why Have Fun with Fairy Gardening? Whether you believe in garden fairies or just want to engage your child in imaginative play, the small-scale method of fairy gardening offers many benefits to the gardener, including connecting the child with nature while providing them with an immediate creative outlet. Also, fairy gardening can offer a way to teach the elements of landscape design, spacing, and proper irrigation to children. Another benefit of this type of gardening is that it enables a less physically constraining form of gardening for any age. How to Make an Enchanting Fairy Garden The most important tool of fairy gardening is your imagination ! Take some time and develop your plan or the story you want to tell (and attract fairies!) by deciding on the following gardening elements: 1. Theme: It can be anything you want, especially something to reflect a child’s current interests (e.g., princesses, farm animals, favorite movie characters). 2. Location: Determine where to locate your garden - in a container inside your home or outside, or in a small area of your garden. Add good potting soil for your plants and also, to set hardscape figures and structures. Good drainage, like providing holes in your container and the right soil mixture, ensures a long-lasting garden. 3. Plant selection: Choose plants that will grow to the right scale, or size, for a small garden. As you search for the right plants, consider contrasting or complementary colors and shapes of plants that best fit your theme. Here are some resources to help you choose the right plants: https://www.usbg.gov/fairy-gardens https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/miniature-gardens-a-story-to-tell/ 4. Accessorize: Start by “shopping” around your house and garden to find items that match your plan and can shape the story of your fairy garden. Suggestions: Acorns, pine cones, seeds, stones, shells, small branches, leaves, bottle caps, pipe cleaners, straws, discarded toys or parts of toys, and unused costume jewelry or fish tank stones. Craft stores have endless possibilities, too. To pursue an even more magical journey when creating your fairy garden, include the garden attributes that fairies prefer. Fairies enjoy a place to hide, like under a big leaf or behind a smaller rock. Look for small, colorful, shiny, fragrant, or soft items that will attract your neighborhood fairies. Use small ornaments or sparkly treasures. Incorporate fragrant plants (like lavender), choose plants with soft leaves, like lamb ears, or find pods (like milkweed), for a fairy to sleep on. Now you are ready to create your fairy garden! Once completed, feel free to add or change the garden as your child wants, to fully express their imagination (or even try to attract a fairy to live in their garden). As time passes, encourage your child to visit their fairy garden and leave little gifts of nature or special trinkets for the fairies. Here are some examples of fairy gardens found in Dakota County, Minnesota: To further enhance your fairy gardening experience, read: How To Catch a Garden Fairy, by Alice Walstead, a delightful read-aloud for younger elementary-aged children, which allows your child’s imagination to grow and see how making a fairy garden can entice a fairy into your garden! Borrow from the Dakota County Library: ISBN: 9781728263205 Or Buy: https://www.amazon.com/How-Catch-Garden-Fairy-Springtime/dp/1728263204 Reference: (University of Wisconsin-Madison, Extension, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/blossom-end-rot/ ) Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1,3,4,5), Marie Smith (2,6)

< Back How Trees Talk to One Another Karna Berg, Master Gardener Have you ever walked in the woods and thought there was someone there, someone talking? Well, if you have, you were right. It was the trees talking to one another. Oak trees are the perfect example. My back yard has a small, wooded area of mostly oak trees. I now feel them talking to each other. Or are they talking to me? Are they saying they need more water? Would like a sunny day? Just what are they saying? As we all know, our trees are under attack from pollution, drought, pests, and disease. And while trees cannot just move to a more hospitable spot, they can help one another deal with all the stresses on them. Scientists have discovered that trees, and specifically oaks, have developed a root system, or network, through which they communicate. That root system is populated by fungus that aids them in this process. Let’s say a pest is moving into the neighborhood. As we know, they move in slowly, often tracked by tree specialists providing warnings to the public on what to be on the lookout for. Well, the trees are tracking the pests as well. And as the pests land on their branches, they signal ahead through the network that their neighbor trees should be prepared. Oaks and other trees will then produce chemicals and enzymes that help to ward off the pests. It sounds impossible, right? But it is true. Some scientists now even believe that trees also communicate through their leaves. If this is as fascinating to you as it is to me, you can read more about it in some of the books I relied on here. They include: “The Life & Love of Trees,” Lewis Blackwell; “The Hidden Life of Trees: What they Feel, How they Communicate,” Peter Wohllenben; and “Finding the Mother Tree: Discovering the Wisdom of the Forest,” Suzanne Simard. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have. Photo credits: Julie Harris (1), seeing-nature.de (2)

< Back Hum along with HUMMINGBIRDS, NATURE’S FLYING GEMS BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener In 1485, Leonardo da Vinci designed the first helicopter, though it was never built. 454 years passed before Igor Sikorsky finally developed an aircraft that could fly forwards, backward, straight up and straight down, and hover in air. Hummingbirds, meanwhile, have existed on our planet for roughly 42 million years and fossils of these aerial acrobats, dating from 30 – 35 million years ago, were unearthed in Germany in 2004. Those fossils reveal that the early ancestors of these birds, that capture our awe today, also hovered and flew in any direction they pleased. About 12 million years ago, hummingbirds migrated to North America and have evolved into 366 distinct species covering North America, Central America, South America and in the islands of the Caribbean Sea. That’s correct, they are no longer found in Germany. East of the western border of Minnesota, the only hummingbird routinely found is the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird. Migrating from their winter homes in Central America, these tiniest of all birds fly across the eastern coast of Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico, arriving in Minnesota around the 10th of May. The journey to their northern nesting sites may be upwards of 2,000 miles; with wings beating greater than 50 times per second and a heart rate of up to 1,200 beats per minute, it’s not hard to imagine how much energy they require to make such a journey. For this reason, it’s imperative that food for these miniature migrators be available as they arrive. Native plants that bloom in late April to early May are a critical part of the habitat for both those that stay and nest locally as well as those that continue to central Canada. Early season bloomers like Virginia Bluebells, Jacob’s Ladder, Woodland Phlox, Wild Columbine, Beardtongue, Paintbrush flower and Fire Pink, provide the sweet nectar needed to replenish the weight lost on their arduous journey. As spring turns into summer, it’s helpful to have blooming plants like Wild Bergamot, Scarlet Beebalm, Wood Lily, Tall Larkspur, Prairie Blazing Star, Fire Weed and Butterfly Milkweed in your garden to provide the nectar needed to feed the hatchlings. Plants that attract small insects are also helpful as those are the only source of protein for these small creatures. In fall, as the birds prepare to fly 2,000 miles and return to their winter habitat, late season flowers like Orange Jewelweed, Cardinal Flower, Royal Catchfly, and Great Blue Lobelia, will help them ‘carb up’ for the flight back. Additionally, as the hummers gather nectar from plants, they also perform the duties of pollination in order the insure continued growth of their favorite foods. Of course, it is helpful to supplement their diet by having one or more hummingbird feeders in your yard; especially if you don’t have early season bloomers. When purchasing a feeder, remember that the birds don’t care how fancy it is, but they do care that it is red, that it has a perch so that they may rest while feeding, and that it is easy to clean. The ‘nectar’ is easy to make: one cup of granulated sugar in 4 cups of water is a perfect ratio. NO RED DYE should be added as they are attracted to the feeder, not the food. The water should be changed, and the feeder cleaned with hot soapy water every 3 – 4 days to ensure mold doesn’t grow in their food. Please keep those feeders out until at least late-September to provide a meal to any late-season wayfarers heading south from Canada. West of the Mississippi, you can find other species of Hummers: Allen’s and Anna’s, Black Chinned and Costa’s, as well as the Rufous; many of them stay in their habitat year-round, providing one more reason to escape to warmer climates during our long, cold winters. For few things can stir our imagination and sense of wonder at nature, few things can bring that broad smile to our faces, as seeing this winged marvel: the Hummingbird. References: ● https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/planting-for-hummingbirds ● https://bigthink.com/the-past/da-vinci-helicopter/ ● https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vought-Sikorsky_VS-300 ● https://science.ebird.org/en/status-and trends/species/rthhum/abundance-map ● https://westernhummingbird.org/hummerguide/https://www.allaboutbirds.org/news/summertime-in-the-united-states-of-hummingbirds/# Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . ● https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=astu Photo 1 credit: Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . Photos 2, 4, 5 - Doug Hansell Photo 3, credit: Audubon 2025 calendar, Corey Raffel