< Back December - Enjoying the Winter Garden Dawn Struble As Minnesotans, we learn to appreciate the cycle of northern gardening. The truth is, after putting the garden to bed for the season, the winter respite provides a chance to enjoy the garden in different ways. Read this article for thoughts about how to enjoy your garden in winter. Over the years I’ve often exclaimed, “I wish I lived in zone 7 or 8!” Then I wouldn’t have to say good-bye to my gardens as winter arrives. But over the same years, I’ve come to appreciate the cycle of northern gardening. The truth is, after putting the garden to bed for the season, the winter respite provides a chance to enjoy the garden in different ways. Before the snow flies, make time to move any garden art or sculptures closer to your home’s windows. This will allow you to appreciate the light, shadows and snow accumulations on your art, as well as on standing vegetation, shrubs and tree branches during the snowy months. Now is also the time to make note of plants that may need to be moved, split or removed next spring. You will thank yourself in the spring for writing it down! Watching the snow for animal tracks will help you learn more about the variety and habits of wildlife in your area ( 12 weeks of winter: The scoop on scat | UMN Extension ). You can use the cold weather downtime to read some great gardening books ( Gift Idea: Good Books for Minnesota Gardeners (umn.edu) or Books that created conversation in 2021 | UMN Extension ). And nothing tastes better in the middle of winter than a warm muffin baked from the garden rhubarb you froze last June! ( Using your harvest | UMN Extension ). If you are really missing the dirt under your fingernails, try an indoor herb garden, or make a winter window box or front entry pot. Taking care of your garden tool maintenance is also a valuable task during frigid weather. ( Clean and disinfect gardening tools and containers | UMN Extension ). Get the family involved and combat the dark days by making beautiful winter luminaries. It’s a fun and rewarding project for everyone, and will brighten your yard and garden areas. As you take that winter vacation to warmer destinations, don’t forget about the reciprocal garden admission program for Minnesota Landscape Arboretum members. Reciprocal Admissions Program – American Horticultural Society (ahsgardening.org) . You’ll find the visit sparking your excitement for another season of northern gardening after the well deserved winter break. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Torange.biz (2)

< Back Gardening with Annuals Shari Dugstad, Dakota County Master Gardener Annual flowers are welcome additions to our yards because they add a wide variety of color to the garden. Unlike most perennials, annuals will often provide colorful flowers throughout the growing season in Minnesota. Planting these colorful gems can be a fun activity for every member of your family and something your whole family can enjoy. This article reviews how to find the best annuals and how you can grow them successfully in your garden. For more information about soil, fertilizing, watering and general care of Annual flowers are welcome additions to our yards because they add a wide variety of color to the garden. Unlike most perennials, annuals will often provide colorful flowers throughout the growing season in Minnesota. Unfortunately, annual flowers are not hardy in Minnesota and must be replanted each year. But planting these colorful gems can be a fun activity for every member of your family. So, let’s review how to find the best annuals and how you can best use them in your garden. There are numerous varieties of annuals to choose from and they are relatively easy to grow. But before buying your annual flowers, consider what you are looking for - size, color, full sun or shade, landscaping enhancement, pollinators, container appropriate, zone or just a favorite flower. Annuals that attract Pollinators If you are interested in annual pollinators to complement your perennial pollinator garden but don’t know where to start, take a look at this University of Minnesota Extension study of more than 30 annual flower varieties. The study found nine flowers that attracted the most pollinators: Music Box Mix sunflower (Helianthus anuus ‘Music Box Mix’) Lemon Queen sunflower (Helianthus annuus ‘Lemon Queen’) Summer Pink Jewel Salvia (Salvia coccinea ‘Summer Jewel Pink’) Purple Fairy Tale Salvia (Salvia verticilliata ‘Purple Fairy Tale’) Orange Fudge Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta ‘Orange Fudge’) Prairie Sun Black-eyed Susan(Rudbeckia hirta ‘Prairie Sun’) Showstar Butter Daisy (Melampodium paludosum ‘Showstar’) Dakota Gold Sneezeweed (Helenium amarum ‘Dakota Gold’) Envy Zinnia (Zinnia elegans ‘Envy’) Click on the study, above, for more information about the characteristics of these annuals. For a longer list of annuals that can be grown in Minnesota, look at this list provided by the University of Minnesota Extension. Top Performing Annuals in Minnesota There are so many annuals to choose from and it can be hard to know which will grow best in Minnesota. Fortunately, the University of Minnesota Extension has conducted trials on various cultivars. You can find lists of the top performing annuals and their features in the flower trials between 2018 and 2024 here . Here are the top ten for 2024: Begonia x hybrida Adora Velvet Red Celosia plumosa Bright Sparks Bright Red bronze Leaf Coleus Premium Sun Crimson Gold Dahlia Virtuoso Pinkerific Impatiens x hybrida SunPatiens Vigorous Purple Kwik kombo Picnic in the Park Mix Lantana Shamrock Rose Gold Lobelia Heatopia Dark Blue Marigold Pretty Yellow Salvia Sallyfun Pure White Dahlia Virtuoso Pinkerific Annuals for Container Gardens Annuals for Container Gardens If you would like to grow annuals in containers, the options are endless. Container gardening provides opportunities to be creative, to experiment with different flowers, to plant flowers with family or children, to enhance your landscape and to add beauty to your garden. Containers are also great way for those who don’t have a yard in which to plant, to add color to their world Containers work great for small spaces like decks and patios. (Note, also, that perennials can be incorporated into your annual containers for an interesting look.) Enjoy the process with container gardening. Before you get started determine what container you will use. A container can be almost anything that will hold soil and has drainage. But the material that they are made of can affect how your plant will grow. Click on this article to learn about the benefits and variables of different kinds of containers. You also need to decide where the containers will be located. Do they need full or partial sun or shade? How big a container do you need? Selecting plants for your containers Will you combine plants or have a single type of plant in the container? If plants are combined, select plants that flourish in the same soil, and have the same watering and light needs. Determine plant size, shape and number of plants for various impacts in the garden - color, interest, complementary to the landscape. Consider the color of the pot that is being used in conjunction with plant selection. An easy way to design a container is to use plants that are ‘thrillers, fillers and spillers.’ ‘Thrillers’ are the focal point and are usually bright, tall plants. ‘Fillers’ are often round, mounding, lower growing plants that make containers look full like begonia, coleus, and geraniums. ‘Spillers’ are plants that hang over the side of the container, like calibrachoa, nasturtium, and sweet potato vines. your containers, here is an article to review. With a little bit of effort this spring, you and your whole family can enjoy the pleasures of annuals in your garden. A little research on your part can result in the best annuals for your yard. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Shari Dugstad (2-4)

< Back Holiday Trees Tori Clark, Master Gardener Tis the season. If your holiday decorating includes a fresh cut tree, here are some things to consider before selecting your tree and some tips to ensure it lasts throughout the season. If your holiday decorating includes a fresh cut tree, there are some things to consider before selecting your tree and tips to ensure it lasts throughout the season. Most of the trees you will find at cut-your-own or pre-cut lots will be one of these four types: Fraser fir trees have bright green, flattened needles; ½ to 1 inch long. They have some of the best needle retention and a pleasant scent. Fraser firs have strong branches which angle upward making them a great choice for heavier ornaments. Fraser fir Balsam fir needles tend to be a little longer, about ¾" to 1 ½" . The long-lasting needles are flat and rounded at the tip. These firs have a dark green color and are very fragrant. Balsam fir Scotch pine has very stiff, dark green needles about one inch long. The needles will stay on the tree even when dry. Scotch pine White pines have soft, blue-green needles, 2 to 4 inches long, that will stay on throughout the holiday season. The trees have a full appearance and are best suited to smaller ornaments. White pines have little or no fragrance, but can have less allergic reactions compared to more fragrant trees. White pine Whether you are shopping at a pre-cut tree lot in town or cutting your own, make sure you have a good idea of the height and width the desired spot in your home can accommodate. Also check your tree for freshness. Trees are often cut weeks earlier, so make sure the needles are green and flexible and do not fall off when you run your hand over a branch. If you are not putting your tree up when you bring it home, keep it in a shaded unheated location. A fresh cut to the trunk of your holiday tree will help it last through all of your holiday celebrations so remove 1-2” of the trunk then place the tree in a stand with water. A good quality tree stand will hold one to two gallons of water. Keep it filled with water for a long-lasting tree that is fragrant and doesn’t drop too many needles. Be sure to keep your tree away from heat sources like vents and fireplaces to reduce drying. Look for resources in your community for recycling your tree after the holidays. Photo credits: www.forestryimages.org (1, 2), www.flickr.com (3, 4)

< Back Plants You Wish You’d Never Bought Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Good gardening includes doing some research when planning your garden! Sometimes a plant that you bought can turn into a monster that makes you despair of ever getting rid of it. Learn from the mistakes that this author and other Master Gardeners have made when choosing plants for their gardens. Good gardening includes doing some research when planning your garden! Sometimes a plant that looked so appealing in the garden center or catalog, can turn into a monster that makes you despair of ever getting rid of it. Learn from the mistakes that this author and other Master Gardeners have made when choosing plants for their gardens. non-native Honeysuckle Before - When it seemed like a good idea Garlic Chives in bloom, May 1998 Garlic Chives “What a beautiful flower, it looks like lace! Look at all the bees buzzing around it! The leaves are like chives! I can put it in salads!” I was looking at a small neat clump of plant, about 15” high. We had just moved onto a piece of land of about an acre. It came with many plants, and I had brought more from our old house. Yellow Archangel Yellow Archangel We have a wooded area containing poplars and spruce trees, so when I looked through the catalogs, I looked for shade-tolerant plants. I saw a variegated ground cover that had lovely yellow flowers that was supposed to do well in the shade. I bought ten of those. Siberian Squill Siberian Squill I wanted a water feature to go through the woods, but after looking into the cost and the time required for maintenance, I decided that I would make a “pond and stream” of plants. What was blue like water? I found a small bulb that had a delightful blue flower and planted it in my “pond and stream” – Siberian Squill. After – when a good idea became a problem Garlic Chives Garden Chives exploded! - April 2025 I have found out that certain, seemingly well-behaved plants can reach a “critical mass,” explode over your flower beds and then escape to places you never wanted them. Garlic chives have exploded all along the road-bank, which is made of limestone. This makes it very difficult to dig out the bulbs, which must be removed to eradicate the plant. Using an herbicide would kill the shrubs and other desirable plants. On the upside, they do stabilize the road-side. Yellow Archangel Lamiastrum Yellow Archangel exploded! Yellow Archangel has escaped into the woods. It is non-native but but has one redeeming quality – it suppresses Buckthorn – a genuine invasive plant that out competes native species. Siberian Squill Siberian Squill exploded! Siberian Squill has taken over the “pond and stream.” The blue flowers have been sparse and the foliage gets larger every year. This year they have defeated the Lamium “White Nancy,” that fills the pond and stream throughout the rest of the year. Siberian Squill propagates by self-seeding. Here you can see that the squill has escaped into the woods. Not looking forward to digging those out. This plant has the potential to become an invasive plant given its rapid spread and ability to grow almost anywhere. Other Master Gardeners Weigh in I asked some fellow Master Gardeners to reveal the plants that they have regretted buying and here is their list: Plants several Master Gardeners have reason to regret and why # of mentions Aggressive On Invasive or Eradicate List Self -seeds Thorny Got too big Garlic Chives xxx x x Horseradish xx Tea Roses x Rugosa roses xx x x False Spirea x x x Flame Willow x x x Morning Glories xxxxx x Giant Rudbeckia x Obedient Plant x Mugo Pine x Trumpet Vine x Amaranth x x x Yarrow (common) xx x Lemon Balm x x Mint xx x Spoon Tomatoes x Vinca Vine xx x x Giant Anisse Hyssop x Oregano xx x Lily-of-the-valley xxxxx x Creeping Buttercup x x Creeping Bellflower xxx x Ostrich Fern x x Hops Vine x Chinese Lantern x x Creeping Charlie x x Siberian Squill x x Snow-on-the-Mountain x x Barberry x x x Winged Burning Bush x x Japanese Honeysuckle (non-native) x x Garlic Mustard x x The lesson is – do your research before you buy a plant for your garden. You can start with our mistakes! Photo credits: Marjorie Blare (1-8)

< Back Protecting Bulbs for Winter Autumn in Minnesota is the time to prepare your bulbs for next year’s growing season, whether that is tucking in your hardy bulbs for their winter sleep (and protecting them from foraging critters!) or retrieving your tender bulbs for indoor storage to spare them from the harsh cold. Read on to learn more about what to do this season for beautiful blooms next year! Jessica Nguyen, Master Gardener Tubers, rhizomes, corms, and true bulbs are commonly referred to using the overarching colloquialism “bulbs.” Bulbs are underground storage structures that carry both the genetic material for a plant for propagation and a food supply to kickstart plant growth. Some examples of bulbs you might have in your garden are daylilies and cyclamen; irises; gladiolus flowers, crocuses, and freesias; daffodils and tulips. Autumn in Minnesota is the time to prepare your bulbs for next year’s growing season, whether that is tucking in your hardy bulbs for their winter sleep (and protecting them from foraging critters!) or retrieving your tender bulbs for indoor storage to spare them from the harsh cold. Read on to learn more about what to do this season for beautiful blooms next year! Know your plant: There are generally two routes for winterizing bulbs, depending on whether the bulb is hardy or tender. Hardy bulbs require the cold winter temperatures to kickstart biochemical processes necessary for their next bloom cycle. They generally bloom in early spring to early summer (think crocuses or daffodils. Crocuses are some of the earliest-blooming flowers that have a bulb structure underground (it’s actually a corm!) Tender bulbs can’t survive the cold temperatures and are planted in the spring to bloom during the summer months (e.g. dahlias, elephant ears, begonias, amaryllis.) Amaryllis hippeastrum Candy Floss In-ground hardy bulb overwintering: for that pleasant spring surprise! Hardy bulbs need the winter chill to flower in the spring, and should be planted in the fall in order to get that necessary cold cycle. Plant your bulbs according to the specific recommended planting depth and spacing for the plant, mark where you’ve planted your bulbs so you don’t forget about them, then watch and wait. Many hardy bulbs are perennials that you may have planted in previous seasons! For hardy bulbs that are already in the ground, trim away foliage in the fall after it has had plenty of time to die back naturally, clear away debris from the previous bloom season, cover the bulbs back up, and leave them be! Planting Crocus Bulbs You should water hardy bulbs up until the first frost, even if the foliage has died down. The wet soil helps to ensure the bulbs don’t dry out or wither before they are able to freeze for the winter. Hardy bulbs can survive the winter chill because even though the air temperature in Minnesota winters can reach incredibly low temperatures and can fluctuate wildly, soil temperatures can stay much more consistent at just below freezing. At these temperatures, moisture in hardy bulbs freezes without damaging the cells of the plant. It is important, therefore, to plant your bulbs at the appropriate depth, to make sure that they are under enough soil to appropriately buffer against the winter cold. See this article by Dominic Christensen on soil temperatures during winter and the buffering effects of snow. Sometimes, bulbs will emerge prematurely due to random periods of warmer weather in late winter, damaging tender growth of the bulb when the temperatures eventually dip back below freezing. For areas that are subject to freeze-thaw cycles (think, that weird February-March time when it is 70℉ one week and -30℉ the next) covering the soil with a 6-inch layer of mulch or straw will protect the bulbs from moisture and temperature fluctuations. Container gardens are more susceptible to freeze-thaw complications, so a protective layer is a must. Critter considerations for bulbs left in the ground: No matter how busy we gardeners are as we prepare our gardens for the winter months, critters are even busier foraging for food to bulk up before the snow falls. There are a couple of ways to keep animals from nibbling on bulbs in autumn, such as: ● Using physical barriers such as row covers, wire mesh, or cages around your bulbs to prevent animals from accessing them. For gardens susceptible to animal attacks from underground, lining the interior of your planting area with a barrier of wire mesh before burying bulbs, may offer protection. Just make sure that the material that you use has openings large enough such that root production of the bulbs is not hindered, while still small enough to block underground wildlife. ● Utilizing planting practices such as mixing in crushed stones into the dirt when you plant your bulbs to deter digging and chewing. ● Hiding evidence of bulbs by clearing away debris from dead foliage; or, by covering newly planted bulbs with a groundcover plant or a layer of mulch. ● Planting only bulbs that are unappetizing to critters, or mixing in your desired bulbs with bulbs that are unappetizing. Some examples of bulbs that animals tend to avoid are daffodils[1] , alliums[2] , hyacinths[3] , grape [4] hyacinths (Muscari varieties,) squills[5] , and snowdrops[6] . TLC for tender bulbs: Many varieties of bulb plants cannot survive our severe Minnesota winters. Some examples of tender bulbs include canna lilies, calla lilies, and caladiums. Dig these bulbs up in the late fall before the first frost, but after the greenery has died off naturally (important for allowing the bulb to gather energy for its next blooms!) They should be stored indoors in a cool, dry place. For these bulbs, avoid freezing temperatures, which can damage the cells of the bulb. It is important to also avoid excess moisture, which can cause mold and rot, while allowing the bulbs to stay plump and retain enough water to survive the duration of storage. Dig up your bulbs and spray or brush off soil that clings to the bulbs. This is important: dry or cure your bulbs for three to seven days at room temperature in an area with plenty of airflow to remove excess moisture before storage. When you touch the cut end of the stem coming out of the bulb, it should feel dry. Otherwise, continue to cure the bulbs. Optional: dust with an antifungal. Store only large, healthy bulbs, as damaged bulbs may not survive storage or may invite rot, and smaller bulbs may dry up before spring. Store bulbs in a container that allows plenty of airflow, such as a wicker basket, or a mesh bag. Bulbs should be stored at an average of 40 degrees without freezing, such as in a cold corner of a basement, a warm fridge, or a temperature-controlled garage. Check on your bulbs periodically (at least once a month) to remove any rotting or molded bulbs, as one bad bulb can spoil the whole batch! https://www.pexels.com/photo/yellow-daffodil-flower-on-brown-soil-8259616/ https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Allium_aflatunense_%27Purple%27_5_2021_ornamental_onion-_%2851187451616%29.jpg https://pxhere.com/en/photo/995895 https://www.pxfuel.com/en/free-photo-xizda https://www.flickr.com/photos/pavdw/17160679352/in/photostream/ https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Common_Snowdrops_%28Galanthus_nivalis%29_%2825742401103%29.jpg Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,5), Creative Commons Crocus , Anatomy (2), en.wikipedia.org , all creative commons (3), www.wilsonbrosonline.com , all creative commons (4)

< Back The World Needs Birds, Butterflies, and Bees Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Swoosh, swish, and buzz! With the start of summer, children look in awe at the birds, butterflies, bees, and other pollinators bustling around outside. Investigate with your young gardeners to understand why pollinators are important to our gardens and explore ways to interact with pollinators by reading this article. What Are Pollinators? Pollinators are creatures who help gardens, parks, farmlands and other landscapes bring us food, resources, and beauty to our world. They carry pollen from one plant to another to fertilize (or feed) plants to allow them to make fruit or seeds. Bees are the most well-known pollinators but other varieties include ants, flies, beetles, and birds. Why Are Pollinators Important? Pollinators are important to our world because they: Help feed the world: Pollinators are necessary for bringing us food and other resources. They are responsible for about one of every three bites of food we eat and are important in producing nutrient-dense foods, like fruits and nuts. Aid the growth of plants: 80% of plants rely upon pollinators to reproduce and continue to grow. We need plants to flourish in the world to feed our animals, to stabilize (or hold together) soil, and to filter water to keep it clean. Give and maintain the diversity of plants: A successful plant landscape requires plant diversity (or variety) to survive. By pollinating many types of plants, pollinators keep our gardens and farmlands growing strong and beautiful. When plant diversity exists, the failure of one plant in our garden is not devastating because we still have others to use. Also, our gardens and farms can continue to grow for many years and provide beauty to the world. How Can You Help Keep Pollinators in Our World Plant an assortment of flowers that have pollen and nectar. https://beelab.umn.edu/plant-flowers Create pollinator habitats (or homes) and nesting sites. https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests#:~:text=Natural%20habitats,be%20left%20in%20the%20ground Eliminate or limit the use of pesticides that are dangerous to pollinators. https://beelab.umn.edu/pesticide-free-plants To further investigate pollinators with your children, here are some activities: DO *Plant in your garden: https://beelab.umn.edu/plant-flowers *National Park Service activity booklet for pollinators: https://www.nps.gov/sagu/learn/kidsyouth/upload/pollinator-activity-booklet.pdf *Make a bee bath https://www.hammerandaheadband.com/bee-bath-diy/ READ A colorful and informative book for pre-readers and above illustrates why we need bees in our world. Available for purchase: “ Give Bees a Chance .” check out the book at the Dakota County Library: ISBN: 9780670016945 References https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/flowers-pollinators https://extension.umn.edu/natural-resources-news/important-lessons-pollinators#:~:text=Pollinators%20and%20plants%20mutually%20support,stigma%20to%20enable%20plant%20reproduction . https://beelab.umn.edu/plant-flowers https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests#:~:text=Natural%20habitats,be%20left%20in%20the%20ground https://beelab.umn.edu/pesticide-free-plants Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back A Rapid Growing Native Shade Tree: The Birch (Betula spp.) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. But, hold on, there are facts to understand about various types of birch to ensure that the one that you choose will thrive in your yard. This article focuses on three types of birch that are commonly used in Minnesota. So was I once myself a swinger of birches. And so I dream of going back to be. It’s when I’m weary of considerations, And life is too much like a pathless wood… From Birches by Robert Frost The birch tree is so much a part of Americana and so dear to the hearts of all Northern Midwesterners, it’s a pretty easy sell to suggest adding some to your landscape. Mind, this is a full-sized tree and one that will send out roots from which spring a gathering of birches if left to their own devices. In other words, it probably is not a suitable planting for a small suburban lot. If you do have a bit of room, however, within a few years you can achieve a gorgeous stand of grey-white sentinels, rustling softly in the summer wind, gently presiding over the restrained winter landscape. About seventeen species of birch are native to North America. They are rapid growing, reaching as much as 80 feet in height with a spread about half the height. Birches tend to colonize open ground, especially after a fire or other disturbance. In general, they favor light, well-drained, acidic soils as are often seen as pioneer trees after a burn. Of these seventeen, three species are most often used for landscaping: Yellow birch, River birch and Paper birch. Yellow birch ( Betula alleghaniensis ) is found across the Great Lakes into Minnesota. It is easy to grow from seed and transplants well as is true of all three species. It makes a fine shade tree but should be planted in a moist, sheltered site. So, an area to the north or east of the house would be ideal. Once established, the trunk and limbs display a shimmering silvery to copper gray exfoliating bark. Try crushing the buds or stems. They give off a strong scent of wintergreen! River birch ( Betula nigra ) as the name implies is mostly confined to the flood plains and riverbanks of the Midwest. The lower Minnesota River is a great place to look for them. Unlike its sisters, it is primarily a southern Midwestern tree, cold-hardy up to USDA zone 4. Also, it is susceptible to highly alkaline soils. So, keep plantings away from streets and sidewalks with alkaline concrete deposits. It’s not a street tree. It looks great in clumps developing a charcoal grey trunk over time. The younger bark is an attractive exfoliating white, with cream to salmon shades underneath. Paper birch ( Betula papyrifera ) is greatly prized for its stunning white bark. It prefers the cooler Upper Midwest. Unfortunately, many have fallen to the bronze birch borer. Borer-resistant strains have been developed and should be sought in your local nursery. Paper birch requires full sun and requires well drained soil. It makes a dramatic mass planting on the edge of woodlands, its native niche. So, take your pick, depending on your situation. But a word of caution: don’t swing on them. As Robert Frost once admitted, “It was almost sacrilegious, climbing a birch tree till it bent, till it gave and swopped to the ground, but that’s what boys did in those days”. Plus ça change… Photo credits: Forestryimages.org - All Creative Commons (1-3)

< Back Pizza Anyone? Pizza Anyone? Why does my pizza taste so good? Home grown herbs – fresh pizza seasonings! Don’t forget to grow those incredible herbs with your children or grandchildren in a fun way that can be used not only this summer (if you are already growing herbs), but throughout the year. Read on to learn how to grow, harvest and preserve basil, parsley and oregano. Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Why does my pizza taste so good? Home grown herbs – fresh pizza seasonings! Don’t forget to grow those incredible herbs with your children or grandchildren in a fun way that can be used not only this summer, but throughout the year. Introducing how to create the containers and then grow, harvest and preserve basil, parsley and oregano. Pizza is one of the favorite foods of children and adults alike. What can be better than to help your children or grandchildren grow their own seasonings for their pizza? Basil, parsley and oregano can be started inside or outside and can be directly sown or grown from seed or a plant starter from a store. Supplies Needed: (3) terra cotta pots/saucers (4” or smaller) Small bag of potting soil Oregano, Basil, Parsley Seeds or Plants Plant Markers (purchased or create from craft sticks) Optional: acrylic paint, brushes Preparing the containers for planting: Choose three 4” clay terra cotta pots and saucers. Find colorful acrylic paints, small paint brushes and a cup of water for rinsing brushes. Painting the clay pots is optional, but it is a fun activity for kids/adults to be creative and decorate each herb container - it also adds a pop of color. The herb names (Basil, Oregano and Parsley) can also be painted onto the terra cotta pots. (Purchased labels can be used or simple labels can be created with craft sticks as well.) Paint or Decorate containers & labels as desired - let dry before planting (for the younger painters - use an old large t-shirt as a paint smock and cover surfaces) How to turn herb seeds/plant starters into pizza seasonings? Fill (3) terra cotta pots with potting soil - moisten with water and you are ready to plant Plant herb seeds (each herb in one container separately) as directed on package OR Plant herb starter plants into the terra cotta pots. Make a hole or opening in the soil and place the starter into the opening. Press soil around the starter plant. Mist the soil or water as needed (terra cotta pots can dry out quickly so monitor the moisture needed). Place containers in a sunny location outside or place in a bright window sill or under grow lights. 6 to 8 hours of sunlight is needed per day (8-12 hours if growing inside under a grow light) Monitor daily - keep seeds moist, but not too wet and monitor for germination Be patient and watch for signs of growth Once herbs are growing they may be pinched back so that they do not become leggy - harvesting can also help in keeping the plant happy and healthy Continue to harvest the herbs and use fresh on pizza - “Home Grown Herbs” - Yummy! (Herbs can also be dried and/or frozen (ex. - basil can be turned into a pesto and frozen) and can be used throughout the year.) Photo Credits : Photo 1, pearlspowder.blogspot.com (all creative commons) Photo 2, www.desperategardener.com (all creative commons) Photo 3, www.theidearoom.net (all creative commons) Photo 4, www.pxfuel.com (all creative commons)

< Back Planting for a Fall Harvest Late summer doesn’t always come to mind as planting time. But Late July and early August are great times to plant vegetables that grow quickly and mature better in cooler temperatures. Read on to discover which plants you can plant now that will grow successfully well into fall. Tori Clark, Master Gardener Late summer doesn’t always come to mind as planting time. Some crops like lettuce and spinach can be bitter and hard to grow in the heat of the summer. Late July and early August are great times to plant vegetables that grow quickly and mature better in cooler temperatures. After harvesting veggies like lettuces, radishes, peas and spinach you can easily grow more if you have the inclination for more fresh, garden-grown produce into fall. Before replanting an area remove any remaining plants and allow the area to rest for a couple of weeks. Roots and debris from some plants can cause seeds to not germinate so it is best to wait. Next, remove any weeds, loosen the soil, and add a balanced fertilizer or some compost to replace the nutrients the earlier crop used. Some plants like peas, salad greens, spinach, and herbs such as cilantro and basil grow in as few as 30-50 days and have plenty of time to grow before the first frost. Other vegetables like kale are frost tolerant and continue to grow well into October while being tender and sweet. Whatever you decide to try growing as a late crop be sure to check the seed packages for the number of days to maturity to ensure plants have enough time to grow. The University of Minnesota Extension also has a handy planting chart that shows the types of vegetables best suited to late planting. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back China Bayles Series By Susan Wittig Albert In the mood for a little light reading while exploring the world of herbs? Master Gardener and herb expert Shari Mayer reviews the “China Bayles” mystery series by Susan Wittig Albert. Each of the multiple volume mystery series centers around a particular herb. Read this article to learn more about this clever and informative mystery series. Reviewed By Shari Mayer, Master Gardener In the mood for a little light reading with an educational bent? Check out the China Bayles series by Susan Wittig Albert. This series can be likened to ‘The Cat Who…’ mystery novels, by Lilian Jackson Braun. Even if you’re not a mystery buff, these books are delightful and you learn a lot about herbs along the way. It’s a lovely read for a road trip, up at the cabin, or just sitting on your porch after a long day gardening. This series is comprised of 28 mysteries to date, each centering around a particular herb. It’s a great way to explore the world of herbs. I would recommend reading in order, although it’s not required. Albert has been publishing this series since 1992, garnering several awards along the way, including the Agatha award. She has a Ph.D. in English from Berkeley, and has also published under pen names, including Carolyn Keene and Robin Paige. In this series China Bayles is a high-powered attorney, who left that world behind to open an herb shop in a small Texas town. Each book is centered around a particular herb, and it’s amazing how much you learn about that herb as the plot thickens. I’ve been recommending this series for years now, and it doesn’t matter your age or inclination, everyone seems to love them. If you haven’t tried them, now’s the time. I used to get them from the library, but I hear Kindle, as well as Amazon Prime, both have options. Happy reading!

< Back Tomatoes the Ubiquitous Summer Vegetable BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s not too late to plant tomatoes in Minnesota this summer. But, how do you choose from the many, many brands of tomatoes that are out there. Read this article for very useful information about choosing the right variety of tomato to grow in your garden. It’s June, so likely you have already chosen and planted garden tomatoes. If you’re still debating, you’re at the right place. Let’s review of one of the most popular vegetables raised in home gardens. The tomato, s olanum lycopersicum, Lycopersicon lycopersicum is a member of the nightshade family of plants; most of the family are poisonous. Thank goodness for this tasty, safe to consume relative. World-wide there are 10,000 varieties of these delicious orbs. A small percentage perform very well in Minnesota. Our growing season is challenging given the potential for late frosts, and the wide range of temperatures (hot to hotter) over a short period. Tomatoes are almost any color of the rainbow. Sizes range from cherry, about the size of a thumb tip; to beefsteak, regularly at seven inches in diameter with some weighing nearly a pound or more. So many tomatoes, so little time! To help with choosing the optimal for your garden take a look at the results of 2022 tomato seeds trial of six varieties: Brandywine Marriage Tomatoes Below are some general considerations when choosing varietals. To Heirloom or not to Heirloom An Heirloom tomato carries the best characteristics of tomatoes and have been grown for decades. They have been grown without crossbreeding for at least 40-50 years or more. When you choose heirloom varieties you consistently get what you expect. Heirlooms are reportedly easy for the beginner gardener to grow. They are also often considered to be more flavorful. Hybrid, “normal” tomatoes are carefully bred (human intervention) to have particular characteristics. For example, hybrids have larger yields. They also may be bred to be more resistant to pests and disease. Determinate versus Indeterminate Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain point, then stop. They are bushy, compact, of shorter stature, and generally 2-4 feet tall. They still require some support, like tomato cages. They produce all of their tomatoes at once. The fruits develop on the ends of the branches. Determinate tomatoes are usually labeled as “bush,” “patio,” or “container” - perfect for smaller spaces. There are also dwarf types. Since all the tomatoes on the plant mature simultaneously, they tend to have a shorter growing season. In order to have tomatoes throughout the summer, one must either stagger start dates, or consider planting additional indeterminate tomatoes. Indeterminate plants grow and grow. They are the vine tomatoes most recognized and envisioned when people talk about growing tomatoes. They can grow to lengths of 10-12 feet, therefore, require vertical supports, and lots of them. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruit throughout the season. The fruit grows all along the stems, ripening at different times. This results in a longer growing season and and greater yield than determinate varieties. Regardless of your choices, enjoy the sun-happy tomatoes until the Minnesota frost sweeps them away. Here are two recipes that are often overlooked. First, more than a movie, welcome: Fried Green Tomatoes! Second, the “Southern Tomato Sandwich.” NOTE, Duke’s Mayo is what makes it perfect. Ingredients 2 (½-inch-thick) slices beefsteak tomato ¼ tsp. kosher salt or ⅛ tsp. table salt ¼ tsp. freshly, coarsely ground black pepper 2 slices soft, white sandwich bread 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise, or more!! Directions Arrange tomato slices on a paper towel, sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. Let stand until tops of slices are beaded up with juices, 3 to 5 minutes. Spread one side of each bread slice with 1½ tablespoons mayonnaise. Arrange tomato slices on mayo side of one bread slice: top with other bread slice, mayo slice down. Enjoy the messy, juicy goodness immediately!! I leave you with this final thought in the form of Haiku: Beautiful and firm Sweet summer fruit soaks up sun Delicious to eat Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,2)

< Back Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Not every seed is created equal. Trying to get some of the native perennials to germinate seems to require an Act of Congress. And they’re gridlocked! Not so with the humble but glorious zinnia. In my book, zinnias are some of the most overlooked yet rewarding annuals a Minnesotan could hope for. Although originating in Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., varieties have been developed all over the world. Yet they all still retain their love of warmth and sunlight, a commodity sometimes in short supply up here. Fear not! Simply sew zinnia seeds after the last hard frost and bide your time. As things warm up the seedlings will take care of the rest, producing blooms from late spring, far into the fall. If you have a warm sunny spot inside, you might even consider starting some seeds four to six weeks before the last frost. Unlike some more persnickety plants, zinnias germinate readily. You can set them out in the garden when they get two to four inches tall and enjoy weeks of blooms before the seeds you sewed get in gear. There are many varieties of zinnias ranging in height from 6 inches to 4 feet. I like the older, smaller blooms. They are hardy, fast growing, and tough plants. As I said, they do need full sun and warmth, but ask little else. One fertilization a season usually suffices. They are quite disease resistant. Powdery mildew seems to be the only common malady. It doesn’t look very attractive, but the plants usually survive. To keep them happy and mildew free, select a well-drained location for planting. Zinnias don’t like their feet wet. Mixed zinnias in full summer bloom If you find a variety you really like, consider collecting seeds in the late fall. Just cut off the spent flowers, shake out the seeds onto a sheet of paper, slip them into an envelope and store in the fridge until early next spring to start indoors or sew in the garden a bit later. Either way you will have bold, bright colors to cheer you through the gardening season! Late fall zinnia seed heads ready for harvest Want to learn more about zinnias than you thought there was to learn? Try Eric Grissell’s new book, A History of Zinnias: Flower for the Ages , Perdue University Press, West Layette, IN, 2020. Photo credits: Jim Lakin (1, 2)