< Back Indulging in the World of Mulching Spring has sprung in Minnesota! Are you thinking about putting mulch in your garden or wondering if you should? Resolve to learn more about mulching in your landscape beds this year. As you wander around your gardens and at the local landscape and garden supply stores, you may wonder which type of mulch to use, where to apply it and what time of year is appropriate for such mulch. Read on to find out the answers to these mulching questions. Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener CATEGORIES OF MULCH ORGANIC Organic mulches are natural materials that decompose over time, adding nutrients and organic matter to the soil and beneficial microorganisms that inhibit plant diseases. The increased amounts of organic matter will improve soil drainage and moisture retention, reduce soil compaction, and attract earthworms. Because organic mulches decompose, they need to be replaced. Depending on the type of mulch used, replacement intervals vary from one to four years. Bark: Available in bags or bulk, bark mulch comes in various particle sizes, ranging from fine to large chunks with some decorative colored/dyed options. This attractive mulch is weed-free and decomposes slowly, with cedar and cypress being the slowest. Use bark mulches around trees, shrubs, and roses, as well as in perennial beds. Photo by Mary Gadek daffodils surrounded by wood mulch Wood Chips: Wood chips from local arborists, municipal facilities, or waste sites are produced by chipping or shredding tree and shrub trimmings. Shredded mulch is less likely to blow or wash away than chips. Wood chips are best used in most landscape plantings, including around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Be aware: Some commercially available wood chips are made by shredding or chipping lumber or pallets. They are an inferior product that breaks down quickly and may contain chemicals. These products are sometimes dyed to mask their origin. Check labels or with your garden center to avoid such products. Wood chips are best used in landscape plantings, such as around trees, shrubs, and roses, and in perennial beds. Pine Needles: Pine needle mulch, or pine straw, is light, airy, slow to decompose, and attractive. It lasts several years and can be easily removed, if necessary. Pine needles are slightly acidic, although their effect on soil pH is relatively minor. Use pine needles in the landscape, especially around trees and shrubs, and perennials. Available at local garden centers or under the pine tree in your yard. Photo by Mary Gadek straw mulch in garden Cocoa Beans Shells: Cocoa bean shells or cocoa hulls are a by-product of chocolate production. They are light, easy to handle, and have an attractive brown color with a pleasant aroma. This mulch is more expensive than most, but a depth of 1 to 2 inches is sufficient. Best to use for annuals, large containers, perennials, vegetable gardens, roses and sensory gardens. They typically last about one growing season. WARNING: Dog owners should monitor their dogs closely, as dogs may develop signs of chocolate poisoning if they ingest it. Straw: Wheat, oat, or soybean straw, free of seeds , makes effective short-term mulch for the vegetable garden and strawberry bed as well as overwintering insulation for cold-tender plants. Avoid using it around trees and shrubs as it may provide a winter habitat for mice and other rodents. Sawdust : Sawdust is easy to apply, weed-free, and decomposes slowly. Apply sawdust in vegetable gardens, perennial plantings, or around trees and shrubs. Use saw dust that either has been composted or aged for a year, or a thin layer (1 inch or less) of fresh saw dust, ensuring it doesn't crust over, reducing water infiltration. Watch for nitrogen deficiency (when your plants appear light green to yellow colors and slow growth) when using sawdust due to the high carbon to nitrogen ratio. Refrain from using sawdust from treated lumber. Leaves: Taken right from your own yard, s hred or compost leaves before using them as mulch to prevent matting, reduce their likelihood of blowing away, and speed up decomposition. Utilize for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds, raspberry plantings, and around perennials, trees, and shrubs. However, skip applying for winter mulch for strawberries and herbaceous perennials because they tend to mat down and smother plants. Grass Clippings: Grass clippings decompose quickly, making them ideal for vegetable gardens, annual flower beds or left (without clumps) on your lawn while cutting with an unbagged lawnmower. Let lawn clippings dry before applying to gardens, as fresh clippings may form a dense mat or produce an odor. Avoid using clippings treated with broadleaf herbicide until after two or three mowings. Clippings from weed-infested lawns will contain weed seeds. Newspaper and Cardboard: newspaper and cardboard can be used as mulch (but is often then covered with wood mulch or compost), in vegetable gardens, garden pathways, and around trees and shrubs. Shredded newspapers or whole sheets can be used as mulch. Most newspapers use organic inks, so there is no worry about lead contamination. Avoid waxed cardboard and glossy paper, such as magazine pages. Remove tape and staples from boxes. This link provides additional instructions on how to implement this mulch. Compost: Compost, used alone or with other mulches, like shredded leaves or newspaper, helps improve soil structure, drainage, and fertility, but doesn't suppress weeds as well as other mulches. Compost can be used in nearly all garden settings, including perennial and annual beds, vegetable gardens, and around trees and shrubs. INORGANIC Photo by Mary Gadek Little Bluestem ornamental grass in rock mulch Inorganic mulches, include rock, gravel, rubber or plastic chips, plastic sheeting and landscape fabric . The benefits of inorganic mulches are: warming the soil in the spring or fall, suppressing weeds, limiting soil erosion on steep areas and preventing water infiltration where water is not wanted. However, inorganic mulches do not contribute to building soil fertility or composition, can overheat soil in the summer and often have organic material collected on top of it, leading to weed issues. Inorganic mulches usually are more tedious to install, may require additional irrigation and can be difficult to garden in, making planting, transplanting, and weeding challenging. Rubber or plastic chips eventually decompose, which can release chemical components that are not desirable for healthy soil. Organic mulches placed over landscape fabric can still get weeds and are more likely to wash away. WHEN TO APPLY MULCH In Minnesota, apply mulch i n early spring but wait until the ground warms and perennials emerge. Putting down a layer of mulch too early can further insulate the ground and slow plant emergence. In the fall, mulch can help protect newly planted perennials and other plants from harsh cold temperatures. For late-season applications, apply mulch after plants go dormant, but not too early, as it can delay dormancy and increase the risk of cold damage. BEWARE OF JUMPING WORMS Beware of jumping worms. Once you have chosen the type of mulch, keep reading to learn more about applying mulch to your garden as well as learning about invasive jumping worms which like to reside in mulch. Here is an article about mulch and jumping worms . For more jumping worm prevention, seek out garden centers that use the recommended best practices with their mulch. This is an article about best management practices. Mulching is often a good gardening practice but be mindful of the type of mulch your use and when to use it, in order to obtain the best result. Sources https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/using-mulch-garden https://extension.illinois.edu/sites/default/files/how_to_select_mulch.pdf https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/factsheets/mulch-basics/ https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/prepcare/garden-mulch-and-jumping-worms https://www.mnla.biz/news/677301/2024-Updated-Nursery--Landscape-Best-Management-Practices-BMPs-to-Reduce-Spread-of-Jumping-Worms.htm#:~:text=Only%20use%2C%20sell%2C%20purchase%2C,eggs%20and%20other%20horticultural%20pests . Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1-3)

< Back Holiday Cacti Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are beautiful flowering holiday plants Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are two beautiful flowering holiday plants. They are often given as gifts during the festivities. Believe it or not, these plants are native to Brazil, but have been a favorite indoor plant in the United States for many years. They can live a very long time (100+ years). Some people have trouble getting them to bloom and there are a few tricks one needs to be aware of to produce healthy, vibrant blooms. First, holiday cacti like high humidity and bright, filtered light. They need relatively moist soil with 1 part potting soil, 2 parts peat moss and 1 part sand. They do not tolerate standing in water or extreme cold air drafts. Holiday cacti, however, do need shorter days and cooler nights in order to produce blooms. Placing plants in a cool, bright location where daytime temperatures are 65-70 degrees and evening temperatures are 55-65 degrees will encourage bud development after approximately 5-6 weeks. Once the plants have bloomed, reduce the frequency of watering until spring when there is more active growth. These plants are relatively easy to take care of if you follow these instructions. If you are having trouble with your plants blooming there are usually 3 possible causes (assuming the plant is healthy): Indoor air is too warm: lower the room temperature to 55-65 degrees at night, 60-65 degrees during the day. Plant days are too long: this is usually not an issue in Minnesota if near a window but one can put the plant in total darkness for a minimum of 12 hours. Plant does not have enough nutrients to produce buds. Fertilize the plant at half strength with a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium (0-15-10). For a more comprehensive article about these plants, check out this website: Common Issues with Holiday Cacti Photo credit: Janelle Reitz-Kamenar

< Back Cooking with Native Plants Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. This time of year, Master Gardener Joy Johnson thought you might enjoy trying some recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures – Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding, Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin, pumpkin seeds. Yum! It’s just past harvest season in most of Minnesota, but depending on the weather in your area, you may still be harvesting brussels sprouts, potatoes or pumpkins. I thought you would enjoy trying a couple of recipes from two of Minnesota’s Native American cultures. Several Native American cultures consider wild rice to be a sacred component in their culture. The rice is harvested with a canoe: one person “knocks” rice into the canoe with two small poles (called “knockers” or “flails”) while the other paddles slowly or uses a push pole. For these groups, this harvest is an important cultural (and often economic) event. Commercial cultivation began in the late 1900’s in California and Minnesota. Wild rice has a delicious nutty, hearty flavor and a chewy texture. Today it is mainly cultivated in paddy fields, although I’ve seen traditional harvesting areas in northern Minnesota. Wild rice is primarily a source of carbohydrates and contains a moderately high amount of fiber. It also contains a variety of vitamins (Folate, B2 and B6 are the top 3) and minerals (Copper, Zinc and Magnesium are the top 3). Compared to white rice, wild rice is lower in calories, higher in fiber, sugars, fat and protein as well as Omega-3 and Omega-6. [insert photo 1] Chippewa Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding Ingredients : Wild Rice part: 4 cups water 1 cup Chippewa wild rice 1 tsp salt ½ tsp vanilla extract Blueberry Mixture: 1 cup blueberries, dried 2 qts Milk 2 Tbsp vanilla extract 16 eggs warmed to room temperature 2 cups sugar Dash freshly grated nutmeg, to taste Instructions for the Wild Rice part : Wash the Chippewa wild rice Put the water, wild rice, vanilla, and salt in a two-quart saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the mixture for 45-60 minutes. Simmer with the cover on and stop when you notice the rice is puffy and the liquid has been completely absorbed. Fluff the rice with a fork and continue cooking with the lid off until any excess liquid evaporates. Set aside. Instructions for the Blueberry Wild Rice Pudding : Oil a large baking pan (13” x 9”) Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Prepare blueberries by pouring enough boiling water over them to cover them and let them soak for five minutes. Place the cooked wild rice and blueberries in the oiled baking pan. Heat the milk and vanilla extract in a saucepan over medium heat, until the milk is scalded. Mix the eggs and sugar in a separate bowl at high speed until the mixture is foamy. Whisk the scalded milk into the eggs until thoroughly blended. Pour the mixture on top of the rice and blueberries and stir it very carefully just until blended. Top with nutmeg as desired. Place it in the oven and bake it for 1 ¼ hours, or until edges are golden brown. Ojibwa Baked Pumpkin Pumpkins are actually considered a fruit, not a vegetable, and belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes cucumbers, melons, squash, and gourds. They did not always appear as they appear today. They resembled something like the Crooked-neck squash of today. Native Americans called pumpkins “isqoutm squash” and used them as a staple in their diets centuries before the Pilgrims landed. A non-food use was drying strips of pumpkin, pounding it flat, then weaving it into mats. They would roast long strips of pumpkin and seeds on the open fire, or it could be boiled, baked and eaten. It could be easily stored and dried for extended use through the long winters. Pumpkins were used to feed livestock and still are. When my family lived on the farm, every November we would haul our trailer to the pumpkin farm down the road and load up all their unsold, old, damaged pumpkins and feed them to our pigs. That pork was tender, delicious and low fat with a slight hint of pumpkin flavor. Ingredients: 1 small pumpkin (use a pie pumpkin, like Baby Bear, Cinderella or Dickenson; this is the pumpkin that Libby uses for its canned pumpkin) ¼ cup maple syrup ¼ cup apple cider ¼ cup butter, melted Instructions for the Pumpkin : Preheat oven to 350 degrees Place whole pumpkin in oven for 1 ½ to 2 hours Remove pumpkin from oven Keep the oven on and maintain 350-degree temperature. Cut a hole in the top and remove it Scoop out the seeds Set seeds aside for later eating Scoop out the pulp into a large bowl Add the maple syrup and apple cider to the pulp, mix well Pour back into pumpkin shell Bake for 35-40 minutes Cut into wedges and serve Instructions for the pumpkin seeds : Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Wash the seeds well Spread evenly, without layering them, onto a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt Back, checking often until seeds are dried Remove from oven and serve Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back Don’t Let the Snow (or Lack of) Determine Next Year’s Blooms Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Garden Intern It’s October and soon the winter snow will be here, or will it be? We all remember the “lost winter of 2023-2024” when Minnesota received record warmth and lack of snow. Just as a super cold winter can damage your plants, so can a super warm, snowless winter. This article explains why these extreme temperature variations can harm your plants and what you can do to protect them. October is the time to prepare your plants for the winter! In the article *Winterizing Plants: Cold Damage, Julie Weisenhorn, U of MN Extension horticulture educator says, “ Lack of snow cover and dry, droughty conditions negatively influence winter soil temperatures and cause root injury.” In Minnesota, the earth rotates on its axis at about 700 mph. The ground beneath our feet, known as the earth’s lithosphere, is in constant motion also. Yet we don’t “feel the earth move under our feet”, unless an earthquake occurs or you’re Carole King. Instead, we see the effects of this movement. We see it in the passage of a 24-hour day, in the cracks of an asphalt driveway, or the heaving of landscape edging over an extended period of time. We also see the effects it has on our perennials as this heaving occurs. Heaving is the upward movement of soil due to wide temperature fluctuations coupled with the expansion and contraction of moisture (water) within the soil. The tiny root hairs of a plant are microscopic and invisible to the human eye. They are responsible for absorbing water and nutrients for the plant. The freezing and thawing process of heaving, negatively affects these tiny hair roots, resulting in damage or even death to a plant. And at times, if the plant was not properly planted, heaving can push the plant up from the ground exposing its roots to other damaging environmental conditions, such as insects, diseases, and animals. To minimize heat loss in the soil surrounding the plant, and the potential for heaving, winterize your plants with shredded wood mulch. Shredded leaves also provide a good source of organic mulch, as well as pine needles. Four to six inches of mulch will help the soil temperature remain consistent and help prevent heaving. Other helpful considerations for Minnesota gardeners include: Select plants according to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map. Watch “Right Plant Right Place” video series on the U of MN Extension You Tube channel to learn how to give your plants the best start possible. Continue to water your plants until the ground freezes. Water serves as an insulator; well-watered soil retains heat. And as your plants come to life in the spring, they’ll get their first drink of water as the ground thaws. And if possible, mulch after the top one to two inches of the ground has frozen. The mulch helps retain moisture from watering. In summary, to prevent potential root injury, Weisenhorn says, “Snow cover and mulch are good insulators and help keep soil temperatures warmer . . . Soil moisture is important to root and plant health.” So, the big question on many people’s minds is, “Will we get snow this winter or see a repeat performance of the Lost Winter of 2023-2024?” “Hard to say what exactly will happen for the winter of 2024 -‘25, but it would be difficult to have a repeat of the record warmth and the nearly snowless winter of 2023-’24,” says Assistant State Climatologist Pete Boulay, MN DNR. “The Winter Outlook (December-February) from the Climate Prediction Center depicts a slight tendency for below normal temperatures over Northwest Minnesota with equal chances of below normal and above normal temperatures across the rest of the state. There is a slight tilt for above normal precipitation across the eastern half of the state. La Niña is expected to be present this winter. For me, I prepare for the worst and hope for the best!” We can’t control the weather, but we can in part, minimize the effects it has on our plants with proper planning and preparation. Whether it snows or not this coming winter, let’s plant and maintain properly, water sufficiently and mulch so your plants will have a blooming tomorrow. Make sure your plants will be the “Happy Perennials of spring 2025.” To read more on The Lost Winter of 2023-’24, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/lost-winter-2023-24.html . To learn more about the intricacies of a plant root system, log on to https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ . For fun facts about Minnesota weather, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/summaries_and_publications/normalsportal.html . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkaBGry87JE&list=PLyMOSdo2sM9sqq7P8DR8qKV8f_bkPXAgG&index=1 * https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/winterizing-plants-cold-damage Photo Credit: https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back Transplanting Peonies Michelle Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener My grandma’s peonies have accompanied me every time I have moved. They are a treasured memory of my grandma, one of the people who influenced my love of gardening. Every spring, the beautiful and huge pink and white blossoms open, sending their scent out to tickle my memories and remind me of spending time with grandma in her garden. But occasionally, peonies need to be transplanted. Read this article to learn how to divide and transfer peonies the right way. Peonies ( Paeonia sp.), unlike Hosta’s and other perennials, don’t need to be divided frequently. Some experts say peonies only need to be divided once every 10 years and others suggest once in 50 years is sufficient ( UMN Extension Dividing Perennials , K-State Research and Extension , Illinois Extension College of Agricultural, Consumer & Environmental Sciences )! Iowa State University’s Extension Yard and Garden states peonies can live up to 100 years if well maintained ( Iowa State Extension Yard and Garden ). Many people divide them to create additional bushes or to share with others. Dividing peonies is not difficult but there are a few important points to know to be successful. The best time to divide or move peonies is late August through September but it is possible to do it at any time between spring (after the ground thaws) and fall (before the ground freezes). Moving them later than September in the fall is not advised because you need to give the peonies time to get their roots established before the ground freezes. The American Peony Society provides detailed information for digging, dividing, and replanting peonies ( Dividing and Replanting Peonies ). You can either dig the whole plant out or cut out a pie-shaped wedge. If you dig the whole plant out, you should plan to divide it as just moving the whole plant may result in decreased flowering for a couple of years. Peonies grow large, thick storage roots, making it difficult to get the whole extensive system that develops after three or more years of growth. This is important to know because when you dig the plant, you will want to ensure you keep a six-to-ten-inch length of these storage roots for replanting. To dig the whole plant, dig around 8-10 inches out from the plant and go around the whole plant. The first time you dig, you will want to dig straight down in a circle around the plant and the second round of digging should be angled inward. This allows you to undercut the roots. It is not recommended that you pry the roots out; instead, you should continue to go around the plant until you have loosened the whole plant and can lift it. If you try prying the plant out with your shovel or spade, you run the risk of losing good roots because they often break at the tops. Once the plant is dug out, shake off the soil and rinse the roots off. This will help you identify the ‘eyes’ or buds. When you divide the plant or if you elect to take a pie wedge approach, take a 6-8 section and cut straight down, making sure you get a minimum of 1-3 large buds. However, the University of Iowa’s Extension garden program recommends 3-5 large buds ( https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-how-divide-peonies ). If you have fewer than two buds, it can take several years before the peonies will flower again. To cut through the roots, which are tough, use a very sharp knife. If you have only cut a wedge out of a peony plant, fill in the space you cut out with good soil. The remaining plant will close the gap. When you replant the peony / plant, you will want to select a site that receives at least six hours of direct sun and has well-drained soil. Dig about a one-inch-deep hole. Peonies prefer to have their eyes near the surface. If you plant them too deep, the plant will continue to grow but there will be no peony flowers. Whether your goal is to increase the number of peony plants in your own yard or share them with others, following these division steps will help you to end up with more beautiful peonies. Photo Credits: Michelle Scullard 1,3,4 University of Iowa Extension 2

< Back Newby’s Vegetable Garden Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the time when many homeowner’s thoughts turn to gardening. New (or not so new) homeowners may want to start growing their own vegetables but are hesitant because they don’t know how to start. In this clever article, Master Gardener and experienced vegetable gardener, Margie Blare provides loads of good advice to the “Newby” gardener about how to start a vegetable garden. Read this article to start your vegetable gardening adventure. Once upon a time, there was a new gardener named Newby . One day Newby thought, “I would like to have a vegetable garden. Then I’d know where my food comes from and how it was grown. I wonder how I can do that?” With a flash of green, a figure appeared. “I can help!” exclaimed Greenthumb . Newby : “Hi Greenthumb , I have questions like, where should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Choose a spot that gets 6-8 hours of full sun each day. To minimize weeding, consider a raised bed. Keep it simple, perhaps four 2 X 6s nailed together to make a 3 X 8 foot bed. At this width, you can easily reach across it. And, if that spot doesn’t work, you can move it next year.” Newby : “Can I just use the soil from my backyard?” Greenthumb : “It depends! You should get a soil test; watch this video to find out how. Soil tests let you know how much and what kind of fertilizer is needed. It will tell you how much organic matter is in your soil and will give recommendations for healthy plants, with no adverse effects on the environment. You can fill a raised bed with quality soil if your native soil is poor.” Newby : “So, I just put the seeds in the ground?” Greenthumb :” It depends! Some need to be started indoors and others do best when directly seeded.” Read the seed package learn what each type of seeds need. Newby : “When should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Some crops are cool season; such as peas, spinach, lettuce, and many more. Others are warm season; such as cucumbers, beans, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, squash and melons. You need to read the seed package. You can also check out this seed-starting calculator .” Newby : “My neighbor’s tomatoes got all black last year. How can I prevent that?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Check out ‘What’s Wrong with my Plant?’ on the University of Minnesota’s website to find pictures of various diseases and insects that may be affecting your veggies. There are recommendations on what to do. Having good sanitation and plant spacing prevents a number of pest problems. You can also ‘Ask a Master Gardener’ at (612) 301-7590. Leave a message and a Master Gardener will research your questions and get back to you.” Newby : “I heard my neighbor talking about zones. What are they?” Greenthumb : “Plant hardiness zone maps show the temperatures of various places in the state and nation. It is necessary to know your zone when buying small fruits like strawberries and raspberries, and perennial vegetables such as rhubarb, horseradish and asparagus, to make sure the plants you buy can withstand the winters in our area. See the map above to find out your zone.” Newby : “Thanks Greenthumb!” Greenthumb : “Happy Gardening!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1,2,4), Hardiness Map (3)

< Back Tomatoes the Ubiquitous Summer Vegetable BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s not too late to plant tomatoes in Minnesota this summer. But, how do you choose from the many, many brands of tomatoes that are out there. Read this article for very useful information about choosing the right variety of tomato to grow in your garden. It’s June, so likely you have already chosen and planted garden tomatoes. If you’re still debating, you’re at the right place. Let’s review of one of the most popular vegetables raised in home gardens. The tomato, s olanum lycopersicum, Lycopersicon lycopersicum is a member of the nightshade family of plants; most of the family are poisonous. Thank goodness for this tasty, safe to consume relative. World-wide there are 10,000 varieties of these delicious orbs. A small percentage perform very well in Minnesota. Our growing season is challenging given the potential for late frosts, and the wide range of temperatures (hot to hotter) over a short period. Tomatoes are almost any color of the rainbow. Sizes range from cherry, about the size of a thumb tip; to beefsteak, regularly at seven inches in diameter with some weighing nearly a pound or more. So many tomatoes, so little time! To help with choosing the optimal for your garden take a look at the results of 2022 tomato seeds trial of six varieties: Brandywine Marriage Tomatoes Below are some general considerations when choosing varietals. To Heirloom or not to Heirloom An Heirloom tomato carries the best characteristics of tomatoes and have been grown for decades. They have been grown without crossbreeding for at least 40-50 years or more. When you choose heirloom varieties you consistently get what you expect. Heirlooms are reportedly easy for the beginner gardener to grow. They are also often considered to be more flavorful. Hybrid, “normal” tomatoes are carefully bred (human intervention) to have particular characteristics. For example, hybrids have larger yields. They also may be bred to be more resistant to pests and disease. Determinate versus Indeterminate Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain point, then stop. They are bushy, compact, of shorter stature, and generally 2-4 feet tall. They still require some support, like tomato cages. They produce all of their tomatoes at once. The fruits develop on the ends of the branches. Determinate tomatoes are usually labeled as “bush,” “patio,” or “container” - perfect for smaller spaces. There are also dwarf types. Since all the tomatoes on the plant mature simultaneously, they tend to have a shorter growing season. In order to have tomatoes throughout the summer, one must either stagger start dates, or consider planting additional indeterminate tomatoes. Indeterminate plants grow and grow. They are the vine tomatoes most recognized and envisioned when people talk about growing tomatoes. They can grow to lengths of 10-12 feet, therefore, require vertical supports, and lots of them. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruit throughout the season. The fruit grows all along the stems, ripening at different times. This results in a longer growing season and and greater yield than determinate varieties. Regardless of your choices, enjoy the sun-happy tomatoes until the Minnesota frost sweeps them away. Here are two recipes that are often overlooked. First, more than a movie, welcome: Fried Green Tomatoes! Second, the “Southern Tomato Sandwich.” NOTE, Duke’s Mayo is what makes it perfect. Ingredients 2 (½-inch-thick) slices beefsteak tomato ¼ tsp. kosher salt or ⅛ tsp. table salt ¼ tsp. freshly, coarsely ground black pepper 2 slices soft, white sandwich bread 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise, or more!! Directions Arrange tomato slices on a paper towel, sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. Let stand until tops of slices are beaded up with juices, 3 to 5 minutes. Spread one side of each bread slice with 1½ tablespoons mayonnaise. Arrange tomato slices on mayo side of one bread slice: top with other bread slice, mayo slice down. Enjoy the messy, juicy goodness immediately!! I leave you with this final thought in the form of Haiku: Beautiful and firm Sweet summer fruit soaks up sun Delicious to eat Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,2)

< Back Aromatic Aster: That Which We Call an Aster by Any Other Name Would Smell as Sweet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As summer winds down and our garden colors turn to reds and oranges, the blue and yellow of Aromatic Aster is a lovely pleasure. But its good looks aren’t even the best reason to grow Aromatic Aster. Read this article to learn more about why this midwestern native should have a place in your garden. Apologies to The Bard, but Symphyotrichum oblongifolium is known by several appellations including Oblong-Leafed Aster and Aster oblongifolius . Yet by any of these names it remains a fragrant, persistent, cheerful autumnal companion of our Midwestern prairies. You will find aromatic aster in dry, gravelly or rocky prairies, glades and savannas. When crushed, the foliage is pleasantly aromatic. It is relatively easy to grow in any well-drained garden soil in full sun or partial shade. Once established, it usually is a quite hardy native perennial and will frequently self-seed. Being a good grower, it can crowd out less vigorous perennials. If that seems to be happening, you can trim it back through midsummer and still see a nice blooming in the fall when it produces abundant flowers in many shades of purple. Like other members of the Asteraceae family, blooming season is usually from late-August through early-November, although an early hard frost can end the show prematurely. Aromatic aster tends to grow in mounds of 24 to 30 inches in height. Thus, it functions well as a traditional flower border or an informal hedge, putting on a dazzling show in the late fall. It is a favorite of pollinators and creates a valuable fall source of nectar for many species, especially last-of-the-season butterflies. It is hardy in Zones 3 through 8. Thus, most of Minnesota provides a suitable climate. Aromatic aster is pretty much disease resistant although occasionally powdery mildew or lace bugs may be an issue. You may have to stake some of the plants in the fall as their abundant flower heads may otherwise weigh the plant down. Most of the time, however, aromatic aster does wonderfully well if left to its own devices. Photo Credit: Jason Grand www.inaturalist.org

< Back Snowdrops for the Early Spring Garden Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Are you a gardener that loves to have flowering plants staggered throughout the growing season? Then perhaps you should consider planting snowdrops in your yard. They are the first spring bulb to bloom and they are known to pop up amongst the snow melt. They usually bloom before larger daffodils and tulips. Snowdrops (galanthus spp) are a member of the amaryllis family. However, they are a small, delicate-looking, single bloom white bell-shaped flower with several green upright leaves. They are native to Southern Europe and Asia Minor and are found in woodlands or wet, alpine grasslands of cool mountainous regions. Most are hardy in Zone 5 but some varieties range to Zone 2. The common variety for Minnesota is 3 to 6 inches tall. Of note, Giant snowdrops are not as hardy (Zones 4/5). Where to Plant Snowdrops should be planted in groups of up to 25 to be really seen. Plant them under deciduous trees or shrubs or near walkways where they can be visible in early spring when the snow is melting. They can even be planted in your grass but then you shouldn’t mow over them until 6 weeks after blooming. They go well combined with Siberian Squill, early small Daffodils, Winter Aconte, and Glory of the Snow. Some people also plant them in indoor containers and force them to bloom. How to Plant Plant them 3 inches apart and 3 inches deep in rich, well-drained soil in early fall when the night temperatures are in the 40s or 50s. Consider fertilizing them in the spring when shoots first appear. Pros and Cons Pros: First to bloom in Spring gets you looking forward to the growing season. They do not have any significant insect or disease issues and are deer resistant like daffodils. Cons: Snowdrops are poisonous if ingested by pets or children. To avoid skin irritations, gardeners should wear gloves when handling them. Sources: University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/snowdrops-galanthus-spp/ Penn State Extension: https://extension.psu.edu/snowdrops Photo Credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin (1,2,3)

< Back Holiday Gift Plants Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a gift for that person who has everything? Do you need a gift for someone but the thought of braving the mall makes you light-headed? How about a potted plant? And no, it doesn’t have to be the lovely but ubiquitous poinsettia. Unless you are able to score one of the pink and white or yellow cultivars, or a poinsettia with “double bracts”, give the lovely but pervasive poinsettia a pass. You want a potted plant that says “I picked this out especially for you.’’ The good news: there are a number of holiday plants for you in addition to ways to customize the plant to make it look extra special. Small potted Norfolk Island pines and fragrant rosemary can be given as miniature trees to be enjoyed indoors and decorated for the holidays. For the flower-loving crowd, paper white narcissus, amaryllis bulbs, cyclamen, and Christmas cactus make colorful holiday gifts. You can make your gift plant even more special by taking it out of that plain plastic pot it usually comes in and giving it in a creative container. Picking out your plant First, make sure the plant has healthy foliage and no roots coming out of the pot. If you are buying a flowering plant, pick one that hasn't fully bloomed yet. You don’t want it to look lovely in the store; you want it to look lovely in your recipient’s home. Be sure to include care instructions. If instructions have fallen off, or were never there in the first place, you can put the name of your plant in a search engine and print out the information that pops up. Norfolk Island Pine : These are small trees that are very popular as decorative table-top holiday trees. Norfolk Island pines are not true pines; they are members of a pre-historic family of conifers called Araucariaceae, an incredibly diverse and widespread plant family during the Jurassic and Cretaceous time periods. While this tree can grow quite large in its natural habitat, Norfolk Island pine is slow growing. After about a decade, it may eventually reach 5 to 8 feet tall as a houseplant. Norfolk pines need very bright light and humidity. If the plant is not thriving, it is likely not receiving sufficient light or humidity. Norfolk Island pines don't appreciate being too wet. Instead, fill a saucer with water and rocks or gravel, then place the potted plant on top, making sure the pot is not sitting directly in water. Bingo! You’ve created a little high-humidity microclimate. When you find the spot in your house with the right light for your plant, don't forget to turn the plant every week or so to keep it growing straight and upright. [insert photo 1] Cyclamen: This cool-season plant is often used as an accent indoors. With its dark green to silvery leaves and recurved twisting flowers in shades of red, pink, or white, cyclamen makes a lovely holiday gift. It grows best in a bright location without direct sunlight. When leaves are present, the plant is actively growing. Water whenever the soil feels dry. Do not get water on the crown of the plant. High humidity, especially during winter, is crucial. Keep cyclamen on a tray of water with a layer of pebbles or something else to form a shelf for the cyclamen pot to sit on. Do not let the cyclamen itself sit in the water. Feed it with a low-nitrogen fertilizer every couple of weeks while in full leaf. Avoid drafts as well as hot, dry air (as in air conditioning and heating vents). As the flowers begin to fade, gradually allow the plant to dry out for 2-3 months. It is going dormant and excess water will allow it to rot. During the summer, dormant cyclamen can be kept indoors, in a cool, dark spot with good air circulation or outdoors, in a shady spot. You can repot with fresh soil and a slightly larger pot while the plant is dormant. Begin watering again in September. By then you’ll probably see new growth starting. Make sure you bring the pot back indoors before a frost. There are many wonderful cyclamen hybrids available and since they stay in bloom for a long time, you can choose your plant while the blossoms are open and know exactly what you are getting. Amaryllis: These subtropical bulbs are popular gift plants because they can be forced to produce stunning flowers during the holiday season. Amaryllis is grown in pots indoors throughout the country. The trumpet-shaped blooms grow up to six inches across, and several flowers often appear in succession. Flower color ranges from reds, oranges and pinks to pure white. Still others are spectacularly striped and multi-colored. You can purchase pre-potted bulbs at many garden centers or you can buy bulbs separately and plant them in a pot that you select. Once planted and watered, bulbs should bloom within six or eight weeks. When purchasing bulbs, keep in mind that the larger the bulb, the larger the flowers. Also remember that flower stalks can be top heavy, so make sure the container you select is heavy enough to counter balance the weight or add a layer of gravel to the bottom of the pot to make sure the plant does not tip over when in bloom. Plant the bulb in the center of the pot in well-drained potting media, taking care to press firmly around the bulb so that it is well seated. Encourage early flowering by keeping at least one half to two-thirds of the bulb above the soil line. Water thoroughly and place the pot in a cool, bright spot. No further watering should be necessary until the bulb sprouts. When it does sprout, move the pot to a spot with direct sunlight and keep the soil moist but not over-watered. Fertilizer is not necessary at this point. Once the bloom opens, remove the plant from sunlight to prolong the life of the flowers. Amaryllis, like many other types of lilies, contains various toxic alkaloids and can cause poisoning if consumed. Keep away from pets! If your recipient is a fan of tulips, daffodils, crocus and/or hyacinths, you can also pot up some of these spring bulbs and create a bulb garden for a beautiful holiday gift. Paper white narcissus : These bulbs are great alternatives to the ever-popular amaryllis. Paper whites are also quite easy to force. Unlike most spring-flowering bulbs, paper white narcissus bulbs don't require chilling prior to flowering. This makes these lovely flowers perfect for gardeners with less experience forcing bulbs. Native to the Mediterranean, “paper whites" produce clusters of small white, yellow, or orange flowers (despite their common name). The extremely fragrant flowers are produced on stems that are 12 to 18 inches tall. With a sweet scent that can fill a room, it should be noted that the yellow flowers are particularly fragrant. For other heavily fragrant paper whites, check out 'Erlicheer' and 'Omri,' which produce completely white flowers. 'Galilee' is white and cream, while the flowers of 'Avalanche' have white petals and yellow central cups. 'Constantinople' also has a yellow cup, but produces semi-double white petals, meaning that the flower stamens transform into yet more petals, causing a fuller appearance. When purchasing bulbs, look for ones that are blemish free and firm. This will help you avoid problems related to basal rot. Basal rot causes decay starting at the roots and spreads upwards inside the bulb. On the surface, affected plants become dwarfed and the flowers are abnormal, not what you are looking for, especially in a gift plant. If you are buying your paper whites already planted there is, of course, nothing to do, unless you want to root them (see below). However, if you decide to buy the bulbs and pot them yourself, look for a pot that is 3 to 5 inches deep and has holes in the bottom for drainage. Paper whites need a potting mix that is well draining. The bulbs should be planted with the pointed ends up. When you are planting them, plant enough bulbs in the pot to fill the space without the bulbs touching each other. Make sure the tips of your planted bulbs are exposed. Alternatively, the bulbs can be planted in gravel, pebbles, or marble chips instead of soil. If you decide to do this, fill a pot or bowl up halfway with pebbles and place the bulbs on top of the pebbles. Then add more pebbles until the bulbs are about two-thirds covered. Finally add enough water so that the bottoms of the bulbs are touched by the water, then maintain this water level. Full flowering takes about 4 to 8 weeks after planting. Once planted, place them in a sunny, cool location; when grown in an area that is too warm or has too little light, the leaves and flower stalks will grow too tall and flop over. Too much sun will cause the flowers to deteriorate. Gift them as they are just starting to bloom. Christmas cactus : Thanks to its name, colorful blooms, and low-maintenance reputation, the Christmas cactus is another holiday gift option. Like poinsettias, Christmas cactus start the flowering process when the days become shorter and the nights become cooler. In order to flower, Christmas cactus typically need at least twelve hours of darkness. Keep Christmas cactus away from artificial light during the night from October through December if you want it to bloom during the holiday season. Place in a closet at night or put a box or bag over it to trick it into thinking it is outside and the nights are getting longer. Christmas cactus ( Schlumbergera bridgesii ) grow best in bright, indirect light. Place them within six feet of a south, east or west-facing window. Fertilize every one to two months during the growing season (April to September). Use a well-drained potting medium and only water the plants when the upper inch of soil feels dry. Christmas cactus prefers to be a bit root-bound, so be sure not to choose a pot too large for your plant. Pruning the plants will encourage branching and flowering, but don't prune beyond mid-summer. You can use the trimmings to propagate new plants. Just place cuttings that have two or three jointed sections in well-drained sterile media. Keep them moist and in bright indirect light until roots form and new growth appears. Christmas cactus can be prone to bud drop, so avoid extreme environmental changes. Keep them away from drafts or heat sources (vents, fireplaces, or televisions). Avoid letting the plants get too dry between waterings. The stems and roots can rot if the soil holds too much water, so be sure to use a well-drained potting medium and water only when the potting medium begins to dry out. Rosemary: Rosemary is a pungent, evergreen herb that's great for cooking and very easy to grow. You can use it fresh in meals or dry it for later use. This herb can live out its life in a pot in the kitchen long after the holidays pass if given good light, or planted in the garden. Rosemary is often used to season meats like pork, chicken, and lamb, but it's equally delicious when used on roasted potatoes or in soups or rustic breads. It is also an attractive, drought-tolerant plant that works well in containers and landscape beds. It blooms in winter and spring with small pink, lavender, or blue flowers, depending on the cultivar. It can reach up to 6 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide when planted in the ground but will remain smaller if pruned or planted in containers. Rosemary can also be found for sale pruned as a holiday topiary , shaped as a Christmas tree. Outdoors, rosemary demands a well-drained soil and at least six hours of sun. This plant is originally from the Mediterranean, so it prefers dry conditions and suffers when watered too frequently. It is best to buy rosemary plants from a garden center, since it can be difficult to start rosemary plants from seed or cuttings. How to Make Your Holiday Gift Plant Extra Special Change out the pot. Garden centers, even big box stores, have interesting containers you can buy. Removing your gift plant from the plain plastic container or common tin foil it came in to something more interesting is a statement worth making if you have the time and money. Not only can you select your own pot or container, you can also decorate it yourself. Boring plastic pots can be transformed with spray paint in a more interesting color that compliments your plant or the room where it will be displayed, if you know. Or using a few rounds of painter’s tape in various sizes you can also create interesting stripes, patterns and/or abstract designs in single or multiple colors. Add color to a clay pot by making it a mosaic, decorating it with broken tile, broken glass, dishes or pottery. Just keep in mind that these will make the pot heavier. If you prefer the look of old terra-cotta pots, you can try these tricks: rub a new pot with wood stain to give it an antiqued look or coat a pot with plain yogurt to give it an earthy patina. You can also make your own container, personalizing it for your recipient. Anything can be used - the only thing that limits your container selection is your imagination. Taking common objects and turning them into garden features makes a great personal statement. Everyday items, such as coffee mugs, watering cans, or even boots make great plant containers. Whether buying or making, here are the basics: a good container should be large enough to provide room for soil and roots. You don't want your plant standing in wet soil, so make sure the container you choose has enough drainage holes. You also want your container to be attractive without competing with the plant it holds - the plant should be the star. The only exception to this, in my opinion, is a gift of foliage or a plant of all one color, like a Norfolk pine or rosemary. In those cases, an ornate or highly decorated pot might be the perfect choice. All gift plants bring welcome holiday color and cheer to the homes that receive them. HAPPY HOLIDAYS! References “Choosing a Container for Your Plant”, gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/choosing-a-container.html “Grow Amaryllis Indoors for Stunning Holiday blooms,” https://extension.umn.edu/news/grow-amaryllis-indoors-stunning-holiday-blooms “Growing and Caring for Amaryllis”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/amaryllis “Growing Bulbs Indoors”, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors “Lighting for Indoor Plants and Starting Seeds,” https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants and Pine” “Rosemary,” https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/rosemary.html “Say Will You Be Mine with Flowering Plants”, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/say-will-you-be-mine-flowering-plants “Tips for growing succulents in containers,” https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/tips-growing-succulents-containers Photo Credit: christmasstockphotos.com (all creative commons) (1), plantsarethestrangestpeople.blogspot.com (all creative commons) (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3), www.flickr.com (all creative commons) (4), shopping.yahoo.com (all creative commons) (5), mx.pinterest.com (all creative commons) (6)

< Back Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum): A-Long Blooming Stunner Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Anise Hyssop or Agastache foeniculum is a tough plant, easy to grow, beautiful to behold and a one of the premier plants for feeding pollinators. Add to those virtues, Anise hyssop is drought tolerant and does not attract deer or rabbits. As a perennial native to the American Midwest, this plant belongs in your garden. For millennia the hyssop plant has been associated with ritual purification. Tradition holds that King David, regretting some of his actions, prayed, “Purge me with hyssop, and I shall be clean: wash me, and I shall be whiter than snow.” (Ps 51:7). It has been used medicinally for digestive and intestinal problems including liver and gallbladder conditions, intestinal pain, intestinal gas, colic, and loss of appetite . While I can make no claims for its therapeutic properties, I can quite vigorously assert the virtues of its American cousin, Anise Hyssop or Agastache foeniculum . This is a tough plant, easy to grow, beautiful to behold and a one of the premier plants for feeding pollinators. Agastache foeniculum alternately known as anise hyssop, blue giant hyssop, fragrant giant hyssop or lavender giant hyssop is a native perennial to the American Midwest and Central Canada although it has spread to much of upper North America. It is drought tolerant and not very tasty to deer or rabbits (a plus in Minnesota). As mentioned, it is very attractive to honey bees as well as a host of native bees, hummingbirds, butterflies, bumblebees and night flying moths. Anise hyssop grows as a bush some 2 to 4 feet tall with a clump-like upright shape. Its tiny lavender flowers appear as a flashy panicle (stalk of many small flowers) above oval, serrated leaves with white tan undersides. Its blooming season is long, starting in early June and continuing into September. Anise hyssop puts down a taproot, so if you are transplanting, do it in late fall, dig deep and don’t expect 100% success. Anise hyssop grows easily from seed, although you should stratify the seeds before trying your hand at germination. This simply means storing the seeds in a moist, cold environment for 30 days. Popping them into the fridge in a Ziploc bag with a moist coffee filter does the trick nicely. After that just sprinkle a few seeds on the seeding media and press them in. Don’t cover with soil as the seeds need sunlight to germinate. Once the seedlings have developed their first two sets of true leaves, they should be ready to transplant. You can, of course seed directly into the garden in late spring but you may not get blooms the first year. The plant does best in full sun (6+ hours of sunlight) but will soldier along in partial shade (at least 4 hours sunlight). It is not particularly fussy about soil type although the site should be well-drained. Avoid damp areas around ponds or areas prone to flooding. Those areas will leave the plants open to foliar disease, fungus and root rot. Although it is of the mint family, anise hyssop is not invasive. It does self-seed but if you are manicuring your garden, it is a pretty easy matter to pull unwanted seedlings in the spring. If you are going for a more naturalized effect, mixing with Black-eyed Susan, Coreopsis, Bee Balm, Echinacea purpurea, and/or Smooth Blue Aster can create a stunning effect. No matter how you incorporate this versitle plant into your garden décor, it will prove to be a valuable addition to your local ecology. Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), istock (2)

< Back What Can Alliums Do For Your Garden? As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. In this article, Marjory Blare explains why you should consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You may be familiar with varieties of allium used for cooking (for example, onion, garlic, scallion). But there are many ornamental alliums with many different features and colors. Read this article to learn more about the virtues of alliums. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener As fall approaches, you might be thinking about planting bulbs that will provide you with a beautiful display in the spring. You might consider planting Alliums for that purpose. You’ll be surprised at the range and variety of these members of the onion family. Alliums are plants that are in the onion family. Included in that family are the cultivated onion , garlic , scallion , shallot , leek , and chives . But, in addition to these tasty varieties there are many ornamental alliums. Alliums are a valuable addition to any garden because they are attractive to pollinators and they are close to pest-free. Rabbits, squirrels and deer don’t like them. They occasionally get downy mildew and allium leaf miners, but that’s about it for disease problems. Alliums are drought, heat and cold tolerant. They do need well-drained soil because if they sit in soggy soil, they will rot. They need full to part sun, and aren’t too picky about pH, although slightly acid is preferable. Some varieties are hardy to USDA zone 3! Various species can bloom every season except winter. You’ll find many varieties in on-line catalogs. For more about growing Alliums look at this article in The Spruce. Allium foliage will yellow and die, (sometimes before the blossoms are done), but you can plant them in a ground cover or among Hostas to hide them. Plant bulbous varieties in the fall, the shallow-rooted varieties such as chives (A. schoenoprasum) can be divided any time. Plant Alliums as surprise ‘pops’ of color throughout the garden, or in rows for a formal effect. Alliums grow well in container gardens – plant them in the fall, leave them out all winter, and they grow in the spring! Unlike some perennials, most Allium will bloom the first year. When planting, don’t let the bulbs touch each other. Plant at a depth that is three times the diameter of the bulb, and a bit of bone meal in the planting hole helps. Leaves of Allium can range from slender round blades to broad and flat, and they can be green to blue-green. Flowers range in color from yellow (A. moly) and white (A. karativiense ‘Ivory Queen’ which has broad flat blue green leaves) and on through the spectrum of pink to deep violet. There is even a blue one (A. caeruleum). The shapes of the flowers can be ball-shaped ( Allium aflatunense ), or egg-shaped (A. sphaerocephalon), nodding (A. cernum), or a display that looks like fireworks (A. schubertii)! Sizes range from the inches-tall fairy/alpine-garden sized (A. oreophilum), all the way up to the giant ‘Globe Master’ (A. giganteum) which can get up to 4 feet tall! In addition to all of the above, there are many Alliums native to Minnesota: 1) A. canadense (Wild Garlic, Meadow Garlic) 2) A. cernum (Nodding Wild Onion) 3) A. schoenprasum (Chinese chives) 4) A. stellatum (Wild Prairie Onion) 5) A. textile (White Wild Onion) 6) A. tricoccum (Wild Leek, aka Ramps or Three Seeded Leek) 7) A. tubersoum (Garlic Chives) 8) A. ursinum (Bear Garlic) Allium have many virtues, interesting traits and colors; play around with them when you design or update your garden. Have Fun! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1, 2, 3), Dreamstime (4)