< Back December - Feed The Birds That Live in Your Neighborhood Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Winter is upon us and as the temperatures drop and the snow begins to fall, our feathery friends need our help finding food. The first step is to understand what birds you have in your neighborhood. Different birds eat different foods. Observe with your young gardeners what birds frequent your area to determine the best way you can help. There are many different make-at-home birdfeeders but let’s get started on making mini frozen bird feeders that can be made, frozen and set out for our feathery friends this winter. But what do the birds in my backyard enjoy the most? The birds that most frequent our area include cardinals, bluejays, chickadees, various woodpeckers, titmice, grosbeaks, finches, sparrows, doves, nuthatches, bluebirds and juncos. Do all birds eat the same? No! The strength of the bird’s beak will help to determine what might be on their menu. Favorite bird seeds include black sunflower seeds which packs a lot of energy for a large number of birds with strong beaks (cardinals, chickadees, titanic); thistle seed (a finch favorite); millet (ground feeding birds); nectar; peanuts (a bluejay’s favorite) and fruit and berries, all provide a special treat for many types of birds. Mini frozen bird feeders are a way to help care for our feathery friends and our environment as well as provide a fun “kid size” activity. Mini Frozen Birdfeeder Supplies : Muffin Tin, Single Serve Empty Yogurt Containers, Small Bowls or Large Ice Cube Trays Bird Seed (1-2 cups) Water (1-2 cups) Cotton Twine Scissors Liquid Measuring Cup Fruits (berries, oranges) or Unsalted Peanuts Begin preparing the mini frozen bird feeders by filling the muffin tin, large ice cube trays or individual yogurt containers ¾ of the way full of birdseed, peanuts and or fruits. Then fill the container with water up to almost the rim. Cut and place a 7-9-inch piece of twine creating a loop. Push the cut ends deep into the bird feeder container to the bottom. Doing this with the twine will prevent the twine from falling out when hung. Place the containers into the freezer for 2-4 hours and then remove from containers when you are ready to hang the frozen bird treat outside. Once the temps fall below freezing outside your Growing Sprout and yourself will hang up your mini frozen bird feeders outside on tree limbs or shepherd hooks. Let the bird watching begin and observe what birds are visiting your neighborhood. Photo Credit: Flickr.com (1), pixnio.com (2), raxpixel.com (3)

< Back Is it Time for Houseplants? Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern It’s December. Everything in the garden is dead or hibernating. Assuming you did your fall clean-up in the yard, cleaned and sharpened your tools for next year and planted your spring bulbs, there is nothing to do in the garden. Feeling lost? Maybe it’s time to consider houseplants. There are many attractive flowering and foliage plants that are happy to grow indoors, even in low light. It is an opportunity to continue gardening in December and onwards, albeit on the smaller scale. Some of the plants you might want to consider during the winter months ahead are listed below. For an excellent resource for care instructions for all of these plants, check out this University of Minnesota site . Possibly the most famous of the easy-to-care-for, low-light plants is Snake Plant (Dracaena trifasciata - formerly Sansevieria). A foliage plant with variegated leaves that can grow from 4 inches to 4 feet tall, snake plant is also drought tolerant. Its flowers resemble small lilies and are very fragrant. None of mine ever bloomed in my lifetime or theirs, but even without flowers the snake plant can make a dramatic statement in your house. Snake Plant Another easy-to-care-for low light plant is the ZZ (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) . So beloved by commercial nurserymen that they named it ‘Plant of the Year’ in 2002, the ZZ is a slow-growing plant with solid green foliage that reaches between 1 to 3 feet tall. It has natural glossy leaves that are so shiny some have remarked that they “appear polished”. ZZ is also drought tolerant. In fact, it can go 3 to 4 months without watering! It will grow in any well drained or bark based potting soil. People who like to tell you how bad they are at raising plants may say they killed one, but unless they overwatered it, that is almost impossible. The ZZ thrives on neglect - after planting it, NEGLECT IT! Would you like an indoor palm for a gloomy corner of your home? Well, you can have one. In fact, you can have two! Neanthe Bella Palm or Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) , is a slow-growing palm that can reach several feet in height. It likes to be slightly dry, so be careful not to overwater it. Lady Palm or Rhapis Excelsa requires a bit of bright but indirect light and is an extremely slow-growing palm although it can grow to 15 feet tall and wide over the course of several years. And there are more! Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema) is a striking plant with green foliage edged in red or pink. Some cultivars can reach 2 to 3 feet in height. They perform admirably in conditions too dark for most other tropical plants. Chinese Evergreen tolerates moist to slightly dry soil in-between watering. Chinese Evergreen Unsurpassable for dependable, dark green foliage in very lowlight conditions, Cast Iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has glossy, coarse-textured leaves and grows in large, leafy clumps. It flowers periodically throughout the year. Although Cast Iron plant is susceptible to leaf-spotting diseases it is very resistant to insect pests. Variegated Cast Iron Plant And let us not forget flowering plants. If you are a fan of tulips, daffodils, crocus and hyacinths, you can create a spring garden for winter viewing because these spring bulbs can be grown indoors. Called “forcing”, spring bulbs will grow indoors if you give them 12-13 weeks of cold. (Click here for an article on growing bulbs indoors). African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) are low maintenance, flowering house plants that are easy to grow, even in low light. With proper care they will flower reliably several times a year. The elegant Peace Lily is another flowering plant that is easy to grow. It thrives in low to medium light and requires minimal watering. It also improves indoor air quality by removing common toxins and pollutants like formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from the air. Peace Lily NOTE : Peace Lily leaves, if eaten in large quantities, are poisonous to humans, cats and dogs. The exotic flowering hibiscus is also easy to grow and makes a beautiful houseplant as long as you meet its requirements. Native to Mexico, poinsettias are a flowering plant available around the holidays. Their colorful bracts, which look like petals, come in a variety of colors - red, white, cream, and pink - and the bracts can be single or double. Although usually used for decorating during the Christmas holidays, poinsettias are also attractive as green plants throughout the year. Click here for information on growing poinsettias indoors. Poinsettias PLANT SOURCES : Nurseries and big box stores are sources for houseplants but there are others. If you are looking to make an impact on a budget, consider some non-traditional sources for plants. Grocery stores are often overlooked as plant sources. Although noted for selling poinsettias during the holiday season, grocery stores also periodically sell large foliage plants at reasonable prices. In addition, that purveyor of all, Amazon , also sells reasonably potted plants. Other sources are plant society sales, which you can Google, and county chapters of MN Extension (Dakota County’s plant sale is in the spring). One of my favorite sources for plants is IKEA , where I purchased a 2 foot snake plant for $20 less than a year ago (it is now almost as tall as I am!). IKEA also sells other large houseplants very reasonably. PLANT CARE : Now that you have purchased your houseplants, you need to keep them ALIVE! The most common killer of indoor plants is overwatering or TMC (too much care). Know your plants’ requirements and follow them. Drought tolerant plants, such as snake plant and ZZ, can go a month or more without watering. Watering them more frequently will kill them. If you can’t keep track of when to water drought-tolerant plants, water them on a schedule - the first or last of every month, for example - or you can test the soil for dryness or moisture. Other houseplant killers are drafts from heating systems or air conditioners. Place your plants away from these. And don’t forget that fireplaces and appliances are heat sources too. Placing you plant next to a fireplace may look attractive but probably not for long. Too much or too little light can also kill houseplants or make them look “leggy”. If a plant requires bright sun and you have none, don’t try to grow it. Match your indoor lighting to your plant. There are multiple low and medium light plants, some of which we have listed in this article. As dismal as December and winter in general can be, houseplants can bring color and greenery indoors and keep your hand in. If you fit their requirements to the light you have available and provide good care, houseplants will reward you. They will allow you to wait out the winter cheerfully until you can get back into your outdoor garden. REFERENCES “Lighting for Indoor plants and starting seeds”, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants#low-light-plants-1622110 Bradly, Nicole and McAlpine, Lynn, “31 Best Low-Light Indoor Plants to Brighten Up Your Home”, Better Homes and Gardens , https://www.bhg.com/gardening/houseplants/projects/indoor-plants-for-low-light/ Brown, Deborah L. “Growing Citrus Plants Indoors”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/growing-citrus-indoors Weisenhorn,Julie, “Growing Bulbs Indoors”: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors ). Weisenhorn, Julie, “African Violets”: https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/african-violets “ASPIDISTRA ELATIOR CAST IRON PLANT”, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP053 “AGLAONEMA MODESTUM: CHINESE EVERGREEN”, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP025 “Hibiscus”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/hibiscus Neanthe Bella Palm, Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans), http.gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/mastergardener/outreach/plant_id/flowers_indoor/neanthe_bella_palm.html Rhapis Excelsa or Lady Palm, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FP501 Weisenhorn, Julie, “Growing and caring for poinsettia”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/poinsettia “Spathipyllum”, https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/ Weisenhorn, Julie, “Watering houseplants”, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/watering-houseplantsSpathiphyllum” , https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spathiphyllum/ “CULTURAL GUIDELINES FOR COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION OF INTERIORSCAPE ZZ (ZAMIOCULCAS ZAMIIFOLIA), https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP252 “ZZ Plant”, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/zz-plant.html Photo Credit: North Carolina Extension (1), Flickr (2), Susan Ball (3), Wikipedia (4)

< Back African Violets Julie Harris, Master Gardener African Violets are one of the most popular houseplants because they require little maintenance and, cared for properly, bloom several times a year. But, as with any plant, they do have specific needs that you must know and pay attention to in order to provide the color and pleasure that you are hoping for. Read this article to understand how to achieve a happy, healthy African Violet in your home. African Violets are a popular houseplant because they are low maintenance and if cared for properly, will bloom several times a year. African Violets ( Saintpaulia ionantha ) were discovered in the 1890s by Baron Walter von Saint Paul in Tanzania. Ionantha refers to the violet color of the flowers, although many hybrids and varieties are now available, including different flower colors. Today, you can find African Violets that are white, pink, maroon, blue, lavender, violet, and deep purple. African Violets can be found in different sizes ranging from 4 to 8 to 16 inches wide to more than 16 inches wide. They have a mounded or round form. Different varieties may have different flower and leaf shapes. The flowers may be single, semi-double, double, ruffled or star shaped. Leaves may be round, heart-shaped or oval and have a fuzzy, velvety texture. African Violets should be planted in containers no more than one-third the width of the plant’s leaf span. They have fine roots and require well-drained soilless potting mix with a pH of about 6.2 – 6.5. Plant containers should have at least one hole in the bottom to allow water to drain. They should be repotted in fresh potting mix once a year. Fertilize the plant each time you water them. Use one-quarter of the recommended amount of fertilizer to keep the roots from being damaged. Fertilizers specially formulated for African Violets can be purchased. In their natural habitat, African Violets received filtered light from the forest canopy. In your house, they need 10 – 16 hours of light and 8 – 10 hours of darkness to flower. They will grow best in a bright, north-oriented exposure; although in the winter months, they may prefer a southern exposure. Fluorescent or LED grow lights can also be used. If your plant has dark, healthy leaves but no blooms, try increasing the light. Conversely, if your plant is not blooming and has pale leaves, reduce the light. As for temperature – if you are comfortable, your African Violet is comfortable. They like 40 – 60% humidity. Grouping plants together is helpful or they can be set on trays of pebbles and water. An even temperature should be maintained and they do not like drafts. Water with room-temperature distilled water or rain water. The potting mix should be moist at all times but not soggy. Overwatering is a common reason that African Violets do not survive. Water just the potting mix as water may cause leaf spots. Do not mist the foliage as it, too, may cause leaf spotting. African Violets can be watered from above but it is not recommended as the plant is susceptible to crown rot. You can also set the pot in a bowl of room-temperature water, 1 – inch deep. When the soil surface feels moist, remove the plant from the water and allow the water to drain from the pot. Do not let the pot sit in water for more than 30 minutes. You can also use a wicking system (see references below) or use self-watering pots. Common problems and solutions: Leaves are long and narrow Not enough light; temperature is too cool Leaves are pale Too much light Plant is limp and wilted Over watering; poor drainage If roots are mushy, brown and slimy, the plant is not likely to survive Leaf spots Water left on leaves Pale leaves, lack of growth Nutrient deficiency, not fertilized regularly Tight plant centers, rusty-colored leaves Over fertilization African Violets can provide many years of pleasure in your house if you follow these fairly straightforward rules for nurturing them. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back There Is Science Behind Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Believe it or not, the snow will melt soon and your thoughts will turn from shoveling to lawn care. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. Do you continue to use a lot of fertilizer and water on your lawn with mixed results? Are you concerned about the impacts of climate change affecting your lawn? Are you overwhelmed with all the lawn work in the Spring? If you said yes, to any of these questions, click the link to learn more about the Science behind lawn care and how it can help you, your lawn and the environment. The University of Minnesota turf specialists have for years studied various methods of lawn care in order to achieve the best results with the minimal amount of human, water, and fertilizer resources needed. As it turns out, the best time to plant new grass or reseed your lawn is actually in early Fall not Spring. Dethatching and aerating your lawn are also best left for Fall. Spring is the second best time to plant new grass or re-seed your lawn. The U of MN Extension has developed an extremely handy lawn care calendar to make it easier to follow the science behind lawn care. Following this calendar will produce better results with less effort and hopefully, fewer chemical applications. The trick with Spring is practicing patience as you see your lawn emerge from the snow. For example, many people add fertilizer too early in the Spring. This will just encourage the grass to grow when it’s dormant or when growing should be slow. One of the most common Spring problems is grey snow mold. This has the appearance of whitish dead patches. The blades of grass are usually matted down with a fungal fuzz. This disease thrives on extra fertilizer almost as much as the snow so adding fertilizer will make it worse. Instead, to treat snow mold, rake the matted grass in order to allow for additional air flow. It will take time for the fungus to die and the grass to grow back, but generally, a fungicide is not needed. Also note that once the weather has turned warm, don’t spray for weed control. It’s too late and will increase the chance of damaging your lawn. Climate change is having an impact on our environment and one way to help your lawn is to consider adding some fescue grasses to your lawn mix during Fall re-seeding. Kentucky bluegrass is gorgeous but also needs a lot of water compared to fine fescue, for example. Another option is to consider adding a raingarden in order to retain the water runoff in your yard versus the storm sewers. Improved technologies have been developed such as “smart” irrigation controllers, soil moisture sensors and more efficient sprinklers to more effectively manage water use. If you do have a sprinkler system, please check it every Spring by running through a short cycle to make sure the sprinkler heads are in good working condition and not wasting water. The bottom-line is there is science behind lawn care and following a lawn care calendar and best practices can achieve a better result with fewer resources needed. Resources https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar https://extension.umn.edu/news/practice-patience-spring-lawn-care https://turf.umn.edu/help-lawn-water-conservation Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back What to Do with All Those Leaves? Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . . and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . .and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Managing Leaves in Your Yard In a forest, tree leaves and other organics form a natural carpet over the soil surface. This conserves moisture, controls temperatures and prevents the soil from eroding. Over time bacteria, fungi and other natural organisms decompose or compost the leaves to supply plants with a natural, slow-release form of nutrients. Consider capturing these same benefits for your own landscapes. Leaves contain up to 80 percent of the nutrients a tree captures from the soil and air during its growing season! Rather than bagging leaves and placing them at the curb to be hauled to landfills or compost sites, you can: Mow Them A light covering of leaves can be mowed; simply leave the shredded leaves in place on the lawn. This technique is most effective when a mulching mower is used. In fact, when leaf drop is light—or you have only a few small trees in your yard--this technique is the most efficient way to manage leaf accumulation. Use Them For Mulch Leaves can be used as a mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds and around shrubs and trees. As an option to raking, a lawn mower with a bagging attachment provides a fast and easy way to shred and collect the leaves. Leaves that have been mowed or run through some other type of shredder will decompose faster and are much more likely to remain in place than unshredded leaves. Apply a 3 to 6 inch layer of shredded leaves around the base of trees and shrubs. In annual and perennial flower beds, a 2 to 3 inch mulch of shredded leaves is ideal. Mulches are especially beneficial when used around newly established landscape plants, greatly increasing the likelihood of their survival. You can even begin to establish a no-till vegetable garden in late fall by heaping 8 to 10 inches of leaves on a defined bed area in a sunny spot in your yard. A heavy layer not only keeps weeds from growing, it also keeps the underlying soil moist, greatly reducing the amount of watering you need in the summer. Improve Your Soil Work leaves directly into your garden and flower bed soils now so they decompose by spring. A 6 to 8 inch layer of leaves tilled into heavy, clay soil will improve aeration and drainage. Tilling into a light, sandy soil, will improve capacity to hold water and nutrients. But remember, almost all trees and shrubs are susceptible to one or more leaf spot diseases. Fallen leaves that are diseased can harbor plant pathogens over the winter and reinfect the following growing season. These leaves should be raked up and destroyed before the first snowfall. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: Should I Mulch or Bag My Leaves? - Should I mulch? Or bag my leaves this fall? (umn.edu) Freeze Dried Leaves on Trees - Freeze-dried leaves on trees caused by early cold temperatures | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2, 3)

< Back Newby’s Vegetable Garden Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the time when many homeowner’s thoughts turn to gardening. New (or not so new) homeowners may want to start growing their own vegetables but are hesitant because they don’t know how to start. In this clever article, Master Gardener and experienced vegetable gardener, Margie Blare provides loads of good advice to the “Newby” gardener about how to start a vegetable garden. Read this article to start your vegetable gardening adventure. Once upon a time, there was a new gardener named Newby . One day Newby thought, “I would like to have a vegetable garden. Then I’d know where my food comes from and how it was grown. I wonder how I can do that?” With a flash of green, a figure appeared. “I can help!” exclaimed Greenthumb . Newby : “Hi Greenthumb , I have questions like, where should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Choose a spot that gets 6-8 hours of full sun each day. To minimize weeding, consider a raised bed. Keep it simple, perhaps four 2 X 6s nailed together to make a 3 X 8 foot bed. At this width, you can easily reach across it. And, if that spot doesn’t work, you can move it next year.” Newby : “Can I just use the soil from my backyard?” Greenthumb : “It depends! You should get a soil test; watch this video to find out how. Soil tests let you know how much and what kind of fertilizer is needed. It will tell you how much organic matter is in your soil and will give recommendations for healthy plants, with no adverse effects on the environment. You can fill a raised bed with quality soil if your native soil is poor.” Newby : “So, I just put the seeds in the ground?” Greenthumb :” It depends! Some need to be started indoors and others do best when directly seeded.” Read the seed package learn what each type of seeds need. Newby : “When should I plant my garden?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Some crops are cool season; such as peas, spinach, lettuce, and many more. Others are warm season; such as cucumbers, beans, peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, squash and melons. You need to read the seed package. You can also check out this seed-starting calculator .” Newby : “My neighbor’s tomatoes got all black last year. How can I prevent that?” Greenthumb : “It depends! Check out ‘What’s Wrong with my Plant?’ on the University of Minnesota’s website to find pictures of various diseases and insects that may be affecting your veggies. There are recommendations on what to do. Having good sanitation and plant spacing prevents a number of pest problems. You can also ‘Ask a Master Gardener’ at (612) 301-7590. Leave a message and a Master Gardener will research your questions and get back to you.” Newby : “I heard my neighbor talking about zones. What are they?” Greenthumb : “Plant hardiness zone maps show the temperatures of various places in the state and nation. It is necessary to know your zone when buying small fruits like strawberries and raspberries, and perennial vegetables such as rhubarb, horseradish and asparagus, to make sure the plants you buy can withstand the winters in our area. See the map above to find out your zone.” Newby : “Thanks Greenthumb!” Greenthumb : “Happy Gardening!” Photo Credits: Marjorie Blare (1,2,4), Hardiness Map (3)

< Back Rhubarb is a Welcome Spring Vegetable Margie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable that grows well in Minnesota. If you grow rhubarb in your garden, it will soon be ready to eat and enjoy in many different recipes. This article provides both useful and fun information about this traditional, well-loved plant. If you grow rhubarb in your garden, it will soon be ready eat and enjoy in many different recipes. This article provides both useful and fun information about this traditional, well-loved plant. Rhubarb is variously defined as: Any of a genus ( Rheum ) of Asian plants of the buckwheat family having large leaves with thick petioles often used as food The tart, succulent, usually pink or red petioles of rhubarb used especially in pies and preserves The dried rhizome and roots of any of various rhubarbs grown chiefly in temperate parts of China and used in folk medicine especially as a laxative, diuretic, and ulcer treatment A heated dispute or controversy, especially in baseball Rhubarb is often called the “Pie Plant,” because it’s frequently used, alone or in combination with other fruit, in pies. Some spices used with rhubarb are ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Rhubarb Custard pie The origin of culinary rhubarb is unknown. It was grown in China and Europe before the 18th century and was used as medicine (see definition 3 above). Rhubarb stalks are a fair source of potassium, are 95 percent water and have no fat, sodium, or cholesterol, and are high in vitamin C, dietary fiber, and calcium. The stalks have some oxalic acid; the leaves, however, have a high concentration - which ties up calcium. This can cause kidney stones and aggravate gout and rheumatoid arthritis. According to Iowa State University Extension and Outreach , the roots of plants don’t easily absorb oxalic acid, so composting rhubarb leaves is safe. Rhubarb damaged by severe cold should not be eaten, as it may be high in oxalic acid , which can migrate to the stalks. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-rhubarb Minnesota provides the necessary 7-9 weeks of cold (<37°) weather to provide optimal growth. Plant rhubarb in well-drained soil. Different varieties have different levels of tartness and fiber. The plant will develop a large crown underground, this can be split to create more plants. Wait until the second season before harvesting; if you started from seed, wait until the third season. new Rhubarb leaves Begin picking stalks as soon as they have reached their full length. Depending on the variety, they may be only 12 inches long, or as long as two feet. To pick rhubarb, hold the stalk firmly, pull and twist. Do not use a knife to cut the stalks from the plant; it can carry diseases from plant to plant, and the remaining stalk can be a point of entry for other pests. Spring rhubarb doesn't need peeling, simply trim and wash. The harvest season for rhubarb lasts until the end of June. Until then, pick as many stalks as you wish. After harvest allow the plant to keep all of its leaves, to build up its reserves of energy for the next year. Rhubarb does have a number of pests and diseases to watch out for. slugs, snails and leaf beetles, are pests you should watch for In a wet year or in a poorly drained site, root-rotting fungi can affect the plant. Start over in a new spot if this happens. Rhubarb curculio damage. Alternate host can be thistles For help diagnosing problems, visit the UMN Extension diagnostic site: 'What's wrong with my plant? ' Keep your rhubarb healthy and it will reward you with many tasty recipes to enjoy. Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (2,3,4,5,6), H. Allen Smith (1)

< Back Winter Hardy Cacti in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Cactus – does not only grow in the desert! Who knew? There are cacti that are not only winter hardy, but native to Minnesota? Read on to learn more about how you can grow a cactus garden in your yard. On a cool November day, I found myself standing in front of something I didn’t expect - a cactus garden in Minnesota. This particular garden is a gift from the St. Paul Garden Club and is located right on the University of Minnesota’s St. Paul Campus, outside the Conservatory & Botanical Collection (free and open to the public most weekdays 9am-3pm). According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, our state is home to three native cacti: Brittle Prickly Pear ( opuntia fragilis ). This cactus may develop a pretty yellow flower but the spikes of this plant are not pretty and no fun. Handle with care as the spikes can easily get stuck in your hand. They cactus is easily spread through the fur, feet, or skin of a passing animal as a piece of the plant will tear away - leading to the “brittle” name. The plant will be carried along by the animal and, at some point, dropped to grow in a new location. Plains Prickly Pear ( opuntia polyacantha ). This cactus has longer spines and pretty yellow flowers. It forms a mat that will spread along the rocks and grassland - or in your rock garden. Ball cactus, also called Pincushion cactus ( coryphantha vivipara or escobaria vivipara . ) This cactus is part of the UMN Landscape Arboretum rare species work because the plant and its native habitat are endangered by land use, including granite mining operations. The Arboretum and conservation partners are leading a project to seed bank and translocate seedlings to protected areas. They are creating educational displays at the Arb, and will eventually train local volunteers to take on the responsibility of monitoring these populations. In their native habitats, cacti prefer rocky soil and drier grasslands. In Minnesota, this environment is mostly found in the western counties. Gardeners can mimic these conditions with well-drained soil in raised beds and rock gardens. Amending the soil with gravel can improve drainage. Cacti are able to store water and nutrients for a long time in their stems, which helps them to survive the extreme temperature and moisture conditions found throughout the seasons in Minnesota. Cacti will often grow in crevices and crannies along rock slabs; they use the heat stored in the rocks when the sun shines to help them survive our cold winters. So, if you are drawn the desert look or are looking for a plant that will grow in your rock garden, consider these Minnesota native cacti for your garden. For more information and photos of Minnesota native cacti, including teacher resources, visit https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2024/jul-aug/yn.html For more information about the University of Minnesota CBS Conservatory and Botanical Collection, visit cbs.umn.edu For more information about the Arboretum’s rescue projects and conservation partners, visit https://arb.umn.edu/plant-rescues Photo Credits: UMN Landscape Arboretum (1), Sarah Heidtke (2,3,,4),Peter M. Dziuk, Minnesota Wildflowers https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/pincushion-cactus (5)

< Back Two-Lined Chestnut Borer and Their Impact on Stressed Oak Trees Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Look up, up, and see that Minnesota’s mighty oaks need your help to keep them healthy and strong especially in urban and suburban areas. Many of us gardeners have heard about oak wilt. But we should also be concerned about the Two-Lined Chestnut Borer, an insect that particularly attacks stressed, weakened, or injured oaks causing a slow, steady death after a few years. Why should we care? Oak trees represent 10% of Minnesota’s forests and they have an extremely positive impact on the natural food chain and climate. So, let’s look up and keep an eye open for the two-lined chestnut borer before it’s too late. Click here to learn more. During the drought years of 2021-2023, many of us watered our lawns, gardens, and small trees but did you think to water those massive oak trees that have been around for decades? Maybe not; we may not think about watering established trees. Two-lined chestnut borers are a secondary pest, meaning they spare healthy trees and invade on stressed trees. Because of this drought and other environmental factors, the two-lined chestnut borer has now become commonplace in the Minnesota’s forest and urban areas. What do they look like? The two-lined chestnut borer is a native, metallic wood borer. It is bluish-black and has two yellow vertical stripes down its back. It’s about 1/5 to 3/8 inches in length. In late May, the beetle emerges from trees and continues to be active until early July. After mating, eggs are placed into bark crevices and hatch within 1 to 2 weeks. The larvae have a legless body that is pale, slender and segmented with darkened mouthparts and a couple of spine-like projections on their end. tree-lined chestnut borer; Credit: treehealthmgmt.com How do you know if you have them in your oak tree? Unfortunately, often times you won’t see their signs and symptoms until it is too late as it will be too high up to get to. Tops of the tree canopy show die back; in other words, dead branches and small discolored foliage, most noticeable in late July. Eventually the dieback will continue into main branches and tree trunk. In late May to early July, the beetles emerge from the bark in a small D-shape hole. If you remove the bark of a dead branch, you may see sawdust S-shaped galleries. two-lined chestnut borer larvae; Credit: www.content.ces.ncsu.edu What can we do to help the tree survive? If the dieback is less than 40% to 50% of the canopy, you can treat it with an insecticide. It is best to contact an arborist as they have more options available such as granules, liquid drench, and tree injections. Prevention is the best method to save your oak trees. You can do the following: Add organic mulch around the oak tree canopy floor but don’t put too much mulch within a foot of the tree. Mulch lowers soil temperature and decreases the rate of moisture evaporation. Plants around a tree are fine as long as there is air circulation around the trunk. Ensure your oaks are well-watered. Don’t fertilize stressed trees as it will increase the need for additional water and can cause additional injury. When you plant an oak tree, beware of root girdling (roots circling the tree). Avoid soil compaction in planting sites and don’t injure tree roots if planting around a tree. Remember tree roots can extend well beyond the canopy floor. Most pests spread through movement of deadwood. Keep infested wood away from healthy trees. two-lined chestnut borer and tree damage; Credit: www.Hort.extension.wisc.edu We love our oak trees in Minnesota. Let’s do everything we can to help them survive. Sources https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/treecare/forest_health/oak_decline/index.html https://trees.umn.edu/sites/trees.umn.edu/files/2021-10/TLCB%20FAQ%20Sheet.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/tree-and-shrub-insects/metallic-wood-boring-beetles https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/two-lined-chestnut-borer/ https://files.dnr.state.mn.us/forestry/um/forest-resources-report-2020.pdf https://dnr.wisconsin.gov/topic/foresthealth/oakwilt

< Back Cooking with Garden Vegetables Joy Johnson, Master Gardener The vegetables that you harvested from your garden (or buy from your grocery store) continue to provide healthy and tasty snacks and meals during the cold months of the year. Joy Johnson shares two tasty recipes for you to enjoy as the flowers sleep and the leaves settle to the ground in November. You may still have kale growing in your garden, or maybe you brought armloads inside before the first hard frost and have kept them growing in a vase of water (this actually works). Here’s a simple tasty recipe to make good use of your harvest. Kale Chips Wash and trim the stems on kale leaves. Roll and cut into small slices or cubes. Put slices into a gallon sized ziplock bag. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and ½ tsp salt to the bag. Close and shake gently to distribute oil and salt. Pour onto a parchment paper lined cookie sheet or glass baking dish. Toast for 20 minutes in a 300-degree oven. Corn Chowder This is a delicious, dairy free chowder that contains lots of garden veggies. This recipe is from The American Vegetarian Cookbook by Marilyn Diamond. I have adapted it over the years to whatever veggies need to be used up soon, in addition to what’s listed in this recipe. Feel free to make it your own. Ingredients: 1 Tbsp olive oil 2 cups diced white onions 1 ½ cups diced celery ¾ cup diced bell pepper (red, green or yellow) 4 cups peeled and cubed potatoes (1/2-inch cubes or smaller). If I’m using small red potatoes, I don’t peel them. ¼ tsp ground sage 8 cups of water (or water to cover vegetables by ½ inch) 2 Tbsp light miso or powdered vegetable broth 3 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels 3 Tbsp minced green onion Directions: 1) Measure oil into a large soup pot. Add onions, celery, carrot, and peppers and sauté until vegetables begins to soften, 3 to 4 minutes. 2) Add water, bring to a boil, cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 10-15 minutes, or until potatoes are tender but not mushy. 3) Remove ½ cup of broth and dissolve miso in it. Add to soup and mix well. Cook soup an additional minute, stirring continuously. 4) Remove one-third of soup with lots of vegetables in it and set aside. Blend remaining two-thirds of the soup until smooth with and blender or food processor Stir in reserved soup, corn, and green onion. 5) Bring soup to a low boil, stirring frequently, and simmer for 10 minutes on low heat, continuing to stir so soup does not stick to the bottom. Serves 8. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Cover Crops Cover crops? What are they and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. Dig into this article to learn more about why and how to incorporate cover crops in your garden. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener What is a cover crop and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. They can be considered a living mulch because of their thick growth. Other benefits of growing cover crops include reducing erosion, maintaining soil structure, and managing weeds. As a ‘green manure’, cover crops serve to provide organic matter and nutrients back into the soil. Cover crops can support a wide range of soil microorganisms and importantly, given the drought conditions of the past few years, they help the soil retain water. Cover crops can be legumes such as vetch, clover, beans, and peas; grasses/cereals such as annual ryegrass, oats, rapeseed, winter wheat, and winter rye; and buckwheat. Selection will depend upon when you are planting your cover crop, where the cover crop will be planted in your garden, and your purpose in planting, e.g., add nitrogen, suppress weeds. The UMN Extension website provides numerous resources to help you make the best selection for your garden (see references at the end of this article). There is also a comparison guide of different cover crop options and information on seeding rates, ( Comparisons and Planting Rates ). Figure 1 below provides a snapshot of the table that can help you make the best selection, with planting times. Figure 1: Planting timing and seeding rate When selecting which cover crop to grow, you also may want to consider a few key factors. If you choose a cover crop that dies over the winter, it will be easy to work into the soil in the spring. If you select a plant that will survive Minnesota’s winters, you will need to have a way to kill the plant and then work it into the soil. You will also want to carefully consider the various benefits to growing a cover crop and determine which ones are of greatest importance. Some cover crops provide pollinators with food, help prevent weeds from growing, prevent erosion, or add nitrogen. Figure 2: Selecting cover crops based on effectiveness of providing various benefits When to plant cover crops is the next major decision. In Minnesota, our growing areas often sit empty after the harvest has occurred. Cover crops can be sown in early spring as a cool season crop in an area where you might plant tomatoes or pumpkins, which need warmer soil and temperatures to grow. If you grow cool season vegetables like lettuce or spinach, you could grow a cover crop during the summer months when it is too hot for these plants. Cover crops can also be grown in late summer after harvesting early vegetables that might be done by August. Late Fall before freezes occur is another option, once all the vegetables beds have been emptied. Figure 3, from the University of Minnesota Extension ( Cover crop selection for vegetable growers ), outlines these plant timing options, accompanied by illustrations of vegetables that might be grown before or after planting a cover crop. Please note the timing in the graph is approximate. You can find seeds for cover crops at garden stores, farm stores, and vegetable seed catalogs. To derive the full benefit, you will usually want to plant your cover crops densely, unlike the usual vegetable garden practices of spacing seeds. You will want to fertilize and water your cover crop to encourage a thick growth of biomass. You then work this back into the soil, adding organic matter. References Cover Crops and green manures in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/cover-crops-and-green-manures Cover crop selection for vegetable growers https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Cover crops improve soil health, even on a small scale https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/cover-crops-improve-soil-health-even-small-scale Cover crop comparisons and planting rates https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops/cover-crop-options#cover-crop-guides-and-resources-2174260 PHoto credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Terrariums - A Garden in a Bottle Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Are you looking for an easy way to enjoy a live project with your child or grandchild over the Winter? How about creating a simple Terrarium that not only will be easy to care for but will also add a living garden to your home. All you need to begin is an open or enclosed glass or plastic container and a variety of planting materials. Preparing the terrarium is not only enjoyable, but picking out the container, pebbles/rocks and a few little decorations to go inside is an added bonus. Choose an enclosed container and create your own low maintenance mini-ecosystem. It begins when you water the completed terrarium (misting is best) and place the cover on. The soil releases water vapor which begins to collect on the walls of the container. This moisture then runs down the side of the container back into the soil and the process begins again. The open container terrarium is not truly a mini-ecosystem, but it does allow for additional interaction including watering and ease of interchanging decorations within the terrarium. Find the following terrarium supplies (check out your local thrift shops, dollar stores & local nurseries): Glass or plastic container of your choice (enclosed or open) Pebbles, aquarium gravel that comes in a variety of colors; (larger stones/rocks can be used for large containers) Activated Charcoal (use especially if making an enclosed terrarium - activated charcoal prevents odors and helps to prevent fungi) Moss - optional but good to use in keeping soil from washing down into gravel/rocks Plants – careful not to choose plants that will outgrow the container Decorations - items that can be placed inside the terrarium Decorative Sand - optional to place on top of dirt for decoration Water & Sunshine (bright indirect sunlight) Terrarium Prep & Planting: Place a layer of pebbles, aquarium gravel or small stones/rocks - 1 to 2 inches deep Spread a quarter to a half inch of Activated Charcoal on top of the pebbles A layer of sheet moss can then be placed over the charcoal and pebbles - this will prevent the next layer of potting soil to seep through Use your favorite potting soil and add about 1 to 2 inches of soil to the terrarium. Time to Plant & Decorate Pick plants based on the size of the container (mini or dwarf plants are available) In enclosed terrariums use plants that enjoy humidity (moss, ferns) Succulents and cacti do well in open terrariums Plants that do well in terrariums - Ferns, dwarf palms, moss, peperomia, polka dot plant and pilea just to name a few. Use a small hand trowel or a spoon to dig small holes for plants Decorate your terrarium with fun small figurines, rocks, sticks and more. Decorative sand can also be spread on the top to provide a decorative finish. How to Care for My Terrarium Place your terrarium in bright indirect light During the Winter months a grow light might need to be used to provide enough light for your terrarium Water sparingly - Don’t overwater Open Terrarium - use a spray bottle or provide small amounts of water with a spoon once a week or when the soil is dry Closed Terrarium - depending on humidity within the container and soil dryness, watering may only be needed every 3-5 months Your terrarium is complete! Enjoy watching it grow! Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1), www.flickr.com (2,4), Thegardendiaries.wordpress.com (3)