< Back Turkey Wild Rice Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s chilly outside and a bowl of rich, warm Minnesota style soup along with flavorful sides will certainly warm you up. Luckily, Joy Johnson has provided a luscious recipe for wild rice soup made with Minnesota grown wild rice. If you had Joy’s foresight, you could add dried parsley to the soup and roasted sweet potatoes from your storage cabinet. Hungry yet? Read on to learn how to warm your kitchen (and tummy) with these recipes. It’s chilly outside and a bowl of rich, warm Minnesota style soup along with flavorful sides will certainly warm you up. The soup can be made with any type of milk, including non-dairy. I love using Minnesota grown wild rice, it is so flavorful and has a wonderful texture. Make sure to thoroughly cook it following package directions. I don’t have anything growing in the garden right now, but I do have delicious turkey stock and cut up turkey meat, both light and dark, frozen from the holidays. I dried a lot of parsley prior to frost, so that can be added to the soup too. I have fresh sweet potatoes from the garden stored and I’ll roast those to serve along side this soup. A cold turkey croissant sandwich with fresh greens is one of my favorites. A very special treat for this meal, is my daughter’s home-made goat milk cheese. It has a sharp pungent flavor and is delicious atop a nutty cracker with a dollop of cranberry sauce. Ingredients ½ cup butter cubed 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 celery ribs, finely chopped 1 medium onion, sweet white, chopped ½ cup all-purpose flour 4 cups turkey broth (or chicken) 2 cups wild rice, cooked 2 cups cubed cooked turkey 2 cups half-and-half cream 1 teaspoon dried parsley flakes 1.2 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper Process In a Dutch oven, heat butter over medium-high heat. Add carrots, celery and onion; cook and stir until tender. Stir in flour until blended; cook until bubbly. Gradually stir in broth. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly; cook and stir 1-2 minutes or until thickened. Stir in remaining ingredients; return to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Roasting Sweet Potatoes Ingredients 4 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup honey 2 teaspoons ground Cinnamon Salt Process Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Lay the sweet potatoes out in a single layer on a roasting tray. Drizzle the oil, honey, cinnamon, salt and pepper over the potatoes. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes in oven or until tender. Take sweet potatoes out of the oven and transfer them to a serving platter. Drizzle with more extra-virgin olive oil. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back Get to Know Your Good and Bad Weeds We are bringing you a new series this year, “Weed of the Month”. Some months, we’ll highlight a specific weed, show you what it looks like, describe its key characteristics, and methods for managing it. Other months we’ll focus on a special angle about weeds, for example, edible weeds because it turns out that not all weeds are bad! This article provides a very useful set of resources to identify and understand weeds and how you should handle them. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener This month, since weeds are currently dormant, instead of focusing on a specific weed, we’ll introduce you to a valuable resource from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture (MDA) called the Minnesota Noxious Weed List . While there are some ‘good’ weeds, there also are weeds that are more than just a nuisance to the gardener. They actually represent a threat to human or animal health, our eco-systems, crops, livestock, and other property. We all have a role in knowing more about these weeds and the steps to manage or eradicate them. This Noxious Weed website also contains information on how to report noxious weeds to the county, state, or federal agencies responsible for management. Minnesota State Statute, M.S. 18.771 directs the commissioner of MDA to classify these noxious weeds into one of five categories. An overview of the categories is provided below along with a couple of examples of the weeds in that category. We encourage you to visit the link to the noxious weed list provided above to review the tables of noxious weeds and learn more about the specific plants. You may be surprised to see some familiar trees, shrubs, and flowers listed as weeds! Each plant designated as a noxious weed has its own page that includes: Pictures Scientific and common names Legal status Background Description Habitat Means of spread and distribution Impact Prevention and management Toxicity The five categories of noxious weed are: Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds Prohibited Control Noxious Weeds Restricted Noxious Weeds Specially Regulated Plants County Noxious Weeds An additional category exists called Federal Noxious Weeds. The MDA website notes that “federal terrestrial and parasitic listed noxious weeds are prohibited in Minnesota”. These weeds are under the auspices of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and they select and enforce them. You can learn more about the federal weed program at the USDA APHIS website . Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds This weed category includes weeds that must be eradicated across the whole state. These weeds are prohibited from being transported and may not be sold or propagated in Minnesota. Examples of Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds include: Black swallow-wort, Grecian foxglove, and Tree of heaven. Black swallow-wort Prohibited Control Noxious Weeds The weeds in this category must be controlled anywhere they may be found in Minnesota. Like the previous category, these weeds cannot be transported, propagated, or sold. Examples include Canada Thistle, Leafy Spurge, Purple Loosestrife, and Wild Parsnip. Canada Thistle Restricted Noxious Weeds Restricted noxious weeds and their propagating parts are only allowed to be imported, sold, or transported if allowed by permit under section 18.82 . Examples include: crown vetch, Japanese Barberry, Garlic Mustard, and Wild Carrot/Queen Anne’s Lace. Specially Regulated Plants These weeds may be native or nonnative species that have some economic value but may also cause harm in noncontrolled environments. Ecological or economical harm may occur and there are human or animal health concerns. Examples include: Amur Maple, Norway Maple (and all cultivars), and Poison Ivy. Amur Maple County Noxious Weeds Individual county boards may designate plants as noxious weeds and prohibit them within the county’s jurisdiction. However, these designations must be approved by the Commissioner of Agriculture, who consults with the Noxious Weed Advisory Committee. If you are interested in learning more about noxious weeds in Minnesota, you can subscribe to the Noxious Weed of the Month article. Every month, you’ll get an email from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture with information on a noxious weed. To subscribe, Click here to sign up for Weed of the Month emails. We are bringing you a new series this year, “Weed of the Month”. Some months, we’ll highlight a specific weed, show you what it looks like, describe its key characteristics, and methods for managing it. Other months we’ll focus on a special angle about weeds, for example, edible weeds because it turns out that not all weeds are bad! This article provides a very useful set of resources to identify and understand weeds and how you should handle them. Photo credits: Minnesota Department of Agriculture (1,4), University of Minnesota Extension (2), University of Minnesota Extension, Dana Boyle (3)

< Back Moving Houseplants Outdoors for a Summer Vacation Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener You have been enjoying your indoor plants during our long, cold winter. But soon it will be time to think about transitioning some of those plants outdoors. March might seem a bit early to think about moving your indoor plants to the outdoors but plants do require a transition time and warm weather will be here sooner than you think. There are many reasons that you might move your houseplants outdoors for the summer. But there are several things to consider to ensure that your plants flourish as a result of this move. As we plan our outdoor gardens, we consider which plants can survive in the different environments in our yards, taking into account the amount of sun and the type of soil. When we obtain plants for inside our homes, we are selecting plants that can survive in the environment inside our homes. These plants do not require full sun. But they can definitely benefit from a visit outdoors. Why would you want to bring your houseplants outdoors? Sun First of all, the plants can benefit from the stronger sun rays. The strength of the sun’s rays is significantly stronger outdoors even than the sun a plant receives when placed by a south-facing window. Easter Cactus moved outdoors bloomed for the first time Rain Secondly, the plants can benefit from rainfall. Slightly acidic ph is better for overall soil health and makes nutrients more available. Rain water generally has a ph between 5.0 and 5.5. (The acidity scale runs from 0 to 14 with lower levels indicating high acid levels and higher levels more alkaline.) The acidity of tap water varies among communities but generally has a ph between 6 and 8.5. So, the acidity level of rain can strengthen plants. Rainwater also contains nutrients that can benefit the plants themselves. In addition, rain can wash the dust and other particles that have been collected on your houseplants. They’re Pretty! Finally, houseplants can be used to beautify your deck or patio and eliminate or reduce the need to purchase plants that you will discard at the end of summer. The plants can also be incorporated into your garden, either directly in the ground or by placing the potted plant among your outdoor plants. Things to Think About Temperature : The move outdoors shouldn’t begin until the temperature is above 50 or 60 degrees. Phases : Make the move in phases. First move all your plants to a shady area, even those plants that can benefit from stronger sunlight. Keep plants that prefer shade (those plants that weren’t kept near a south-facing window), in this location. Other plants should be moved to a sunny location over the course of a week or 10 days. Water : Plants do require a difference in care outdoors than indoors. First of all, plants grow more quickly during the summer months and this growth spurt will generally be intensified when plants are placed outdoors. Therefore, plants will require more water and more fertilizer. The amount of water and the frequency of watering will depend on the type of plant, the type of pot (clay pots are porous and therefore moisture will escape through the pots while water in plastic pots can only be absorbed in the soil and can only escape through drainage holes), and other factors such as the amount of rain and humidity. Water your plants on their schedule, not yours. Check to see if your plant needs watering by sticking a finger about ½ inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, water. Fertilizer : House plants should not be fertilized during the winter months. During those months when there is reduced light and temperature, they experience reduced growth. However, they will benefit from fertilizer during the summer months. This is particularly true if the plants have been moved outdoors. Be sure to use fertilizer that is labeled for indoor plants and follow the instructions on the package regarding the amount and frequency of application. Too much fertilizer can result in a buildup of salts and excessive, leggy growth. Repotting : When outside you might want to repot those plants that have become root-bound so you won’t create a mess indoors. Some signs that your plant may need repotting include, roots growing through the drainage holes, the plant becoming top-heavy, or the plant growing slower than in the past. When transplanting to another pot, the new pot should only be 1-2 inches larger than the original pot. The Negatives Keep in mind things that might negatively impact your plants. Large rainfalls and heavy winds might have adverse effects on plants. Remember to consider the amount of rainfall the plants experienced when deciding when your plants need watering. Watch for heavy winds that might cause large or top-heavy plants to fall over. Watch for signs that your plants are sun-scorched. Indications of sun scorch are leaves that become brittle and turn yellow or brown. Generally, if caught early, you can remove the impacted leaves and move the plants to a shadier location. Watch for pests that might set up household on your plants or the pots holding your plants. Many of these pests don’t harm your plants, but you will want to eliminate them before moving your plants back indoors. Photo Credit: Carol Fuerstneau (1), Linda Stein (2, 3), Steve Greenstein (4)

< Back The Effects of Drought on Trees Lisa Olson, Master Gardener I have heard it said tongue in cheek that Minnesota’s average weather is the midpoint between two ridiculous extremes, because when we talk about averages, it can be misleading. Sometimes it happens that one huge deluge of rain will offset a long dry spell, at least on paper, where the average rainfall for the month or year may appear as normal in the record books. But those long drought periods are not so easily erased in the lives of the trees. According to the US Forest Service, healthy trees mean… Healthy people: 100 trees remove 53 tons of carbon dioxide and 430 pounds of other air pollutants per year. Healthy communities: Tree-filled neighborhoods lower levels of domestic violence and are safer and more sociable. Healthy environment: One hundred mature trees catch about 139,000 gallons of rainwater per year. Homeowner savings: Strategically placed trees save up to 56 percent on annual air-conditioning costs. Evergreens that block winter winds can save 3 percent on heating. Better business: Consumers shop more frequently and longer in tree-lined commercial areas and are willing to spend more. Higher property values: Each large front yard tree adds to a home’s sale price. One thing that helps to keep trees healthy is a consistent, sufficient amount of rainfall. Extended dry periods, even if followed by enough rain to offset the deficit in the record books, will still have a detrimental effect on trees. During an extended dry spell, young trees will be the first to show the effects, while older, mature trees with large root systems may take three to five years to show outward signs of drought effects and at that point it may be too late for them to recover. Additionally, droughts are getting worse. Due to global warming, the increase in average temperature amplifies the effects of drought. Hot and dry is much worse than cool and dry. Higher temperatures mean evaporation increases which means soil dries out faster and trees transpire more. As a result, trees have evolved strategies to cope with drought conditions. One strategy a tree may employ is to close its stomata, or leaf pores, to minimize transpiration. Transpiration is the evaporation of water in plant leaves. A large oak tree can give transpire a whopping 40,000 gallons of water per year. 10% of the moisture in the atmosphere comes from transpiration. With the pores closed, besides preventing transpiration, the tree is unable to take in carbon dioxide which is critical to the process of photosynthesis. Without the ability to make food, it becomes dependent on the energy it has stored to keep itself alive. Symptoms can include scorched, wilted, or rolled leaves, or early fall color. A tree may drop some or all of its leaves to further prevent transpiration. As a tree uses up its reserve energy, growth will stop and twigs and branches begin to die back. Symptoms of drought stressed trees will occur from the top of the tree down, and from the outside toward the center. In other words, the extremities are the first areas to show damage. Damage caused by drought may not show up until the winter when a normally resilient tree becomes affected by sunscald, frost-splitting, or its weakened branches break from heavy snow. Another secondary effect of drought is that a weakened tree is more susceptible to disease and insect damage. Widespread areas of damage from emerald ash borer or diseases like oak wilt or other diseases are more prevalent when trees are stressed. One area of damage on a tree cannot be easily observed for damage. Most tree roots are in the top six to 24 inches of soil making them extremely vulnerable to dry periods. https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-lateral4.shtml This leads us to what we can do to minimize the effects of drought on our trees. Water using good practices. Slow, deep watering is critical. Water every five to seven days or more often if the temperature soars above 95 degrees. Place a shallow can where you are sprinkling to be sure at least two inches of water are slowly applied. Be sure to water the entire root area. Roots spread at least two to three times farther than the dripline of the tree. Another factor regarding watering is that any plants growing above the tree roots are also competing for water, so increase the amount of water if other plants are present and be sure to remove any weeds. A couple inches of mulch, but not touching the base of the tree, is a good alternative to grass under a tree. The best way to see if water is getting to the roots is to dig a hole approximately 10 inches deep to see if a sufficient amount of water is getting down to that depth from your watering. An area of heavy clay soil may seem saturated if the water is puddling, but in fact the water may just be sitting on the surface as it takes a long time for water to infiltrate clay. Young, newly planted trees will need more frequent watering until their roots are developed. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources put together this video How to Water a Tree for tips on watering newly planted trees. While it may be tempting to water a little bit every day instead of deep watering once a week, shallow watering will cause the roots all to move closer to the surface where they are more likely to be affected by the extreme weather conditions and unable to grow deeper where more water may be available. For best results, water in the morning and consider using a soaker hose. Avoid pruning stressed trees. Healing the wounds uses up the energy the tree is trying to conserve just to survive. If you are planting new trees, choose your plant wisely. Always consider the site where the tree will be living and select a plant that can tolerate the conditions. If you are interested in learning more about the effects of drought on trees, the links below include helpful information! https://www.fs.usda.gov/learn/trees https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/drought_monitor.html https://news.iu.edu/live/news/28084-young-trees-more-susceptible-to-drought-but-also https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/healthy-roots-and-healthy-trees-2-926/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4518277/ https://environment.yale.edu/news/article/brodersen-drought-and-tree-mortality-science-reveals-harsh-future-for-forests https://www.mass.gov/doc/citizen-forester-june-2017/download https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/ilriverhort/2016-07-08-drought-impacts-trees-years-come#:~:text=Many%20trees%20will%20take%20three,to%20insect%20and%20disease%20infestations . https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/long-term-drought-effects-on-trees-shrubs https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/root-growth-lateral4.shtml https://extension.umn.edu/how/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard https://extension.umn.edu/my-minnesota-woods/caring-trees-dry-weather https://extension.umn.edu/natural-resources-news/avoid-pruning-drought-stressed-trees https://extension.missouri.edu/news/how-to-help-your-trees-recover-from-drought-5728 https://www.noaa.gov/jetstream/ll-leaf Photo Credit: National Drought Mitigation Center (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Lisa Olson (3), University of Florida (4)

< Back April Gardening in Minnesota: Early Vegetables and Indigenous Crops Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener As spring arrives in Minnesota, eager gardeners can start planting cool-season vegetables outdoors. Despite our short growing season, there are many options for early crops that thrive in our zone’s climate. As spring arrives in Minnesota, eager gardeners can start planting cool-season vegetables outdoors. Despite our short growing season, there are many options for early crops that thrive in our zone’s climate. Read this article to learn what vegetables can be planted in April along with some tips to make sure the planting is successful. Cool-Season Vegetables In mid to late April, you can plant these hardy vegetables: Potatoes Onions Beets Carrots Leaf lettuce Spinach Peas Radishes Kohlrabi Turnips These crops can withstand cooler temperatures and even light frosts. For best results, wait until the soil is workable and not overly wet to prevent compaction. Indigenous Crops Consider adding these native plants to your garden: Wild leeks (ramps) Jerusalem artichokes Groundnuts Wild leeks These indigenous vegetables are well-adapted to Minnesota's climate and offer unique flavors and nutritional benefits. To prepare your soil for planting vegetables in early April in Minnesota Wait until the soil is workable. Test by squeezing a handful - if it crumbles rather than forming a ball, it's ready. Clean up winter debris from garden beds once the ground has thawed. Add 2 inches of compost or organic matter and work it into the top 6 inches of soil. This improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and increases water retention. For heavy clay soil, consider adding some sand to improve drainage. Test your soil pH and nutrient levels. Amend as needed based on test results. Loosen compacted soil using a broadfork or garden fork, being careful not to disturb soil structure. For cool-season crops like lettuce and peas, apply a light organic fertilizer to the top few inches of soil. Use raised beds or cold frames to warm the soil more quickly for earlier planting. Avoid overworking wet soil, as this can damage its structure. Wait for several days of temperatures in the 50s before thorough preparation. Gardening Tips for April in Minnesota Watch the weather: April can be unpredictable, so be prepared to protect plants from late frosts. Prepare the soil: Once the ground has thawed and dried sufficiently, add compost or organic matter to improve soil structure. Start seeds indoors: For crops like broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before transplanting outside. Use season extenders: Cold frames or hoop houses can help protect early plantings and extend your growing season. Clean up carefully: Remove winter debris slowly to protect overwintering pollinators. Wait for several days of temperatures in the 50s before thorough cleanup. By following these tips and choosing the right crops, Minnesota gardeners can get a head start on the growing season and enjoy fresh, homegrown produce earlier in the year. References: https://www.thompsonfamilyfarmmn.com/blog/2021/04/what-veggies-can-i-plant-in-april-in.html https://atthefarmwaconia.com/plants-and-planters/gardening-advice/cold-crops/ https://extension.umn.edu/news/spring-yard-and-garden-preparation https://northerngardener.org/april-garden-chores-a-careful-dance/ https://www.ramseymastergardeners.org/post/cold-hardy-vegetables-and-flowers-for-minnesota-s-short-spring https://www.jimwhitingnursery.com/garden-advice/spring-planting-tips-for-minnesota/ https://www.cbsnews.com/minnesota/news/spring-gardening-dos-and-donts-from-the-minnesota-landscape-arboretum/ https://malmborgsinc.com/blog/minnesota-gardening-guide-april/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-staple-vegetables-around-world-minnesota https://www.reddit.com/r/minnesota/comments/ua91q3/gardening_tips/ Photo credit: Itoldya test 1-getarchive (all creative commons) (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Susan Maher, University of Wisconsin-Madison (3)

< Back Behind the Plant Sale Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener (and the Plant Sale Team) Every May, the Dakota County Master Gardeners put on a fabulous Plant Sale. In this article, we focus on what goes on “behind the plant sale.” From harvesting native seeds, to growing vegetables and herbs in our green and hoop houses, our plants are healthy, well-cared for and home-grown. This is a look at the people and processes that allow us to bring you some of the best quality, healthy and unique plants in the area. Every May, the Dakota County Master Gardeners put on a fabulous Plant Sale . This year the sale is on May 18th and will be held at the Whitetail Woods Regional Park, Empire Shelter, 171 Station Trail, Farmington from 8 a.m. to noon. All of the proceeds from our plant sale go to support our local projects: school and community gardens, adult education, the Farmington Seed Library, and seed trials throughout Dakota County, and many more. More information about the plant sale can be found elsewhere in this newsletter. In this article, I want to talk about what goes on “behind the plant sale;” focusing on the people and tasks that allow us to bring you the finest plants. The Dakota County Master Gardener (DCMG) plant sale is somewhat unique in that all of the plants that we sell are either directly from Dakota County gardens or are grown from seed by our Master Gardeners. We don’t buy plants grown by third-party growers. Our plant sale is well known for the quality and variety of vegetables that are available. Recently, we have also become recognized for the number and variety of native plants that we grow and sell. This effort is complex and requires expertise to provide you with the best quality and healthiest plants. Let’s take a look at what it takes to put on our plant sale and some of the people who make it happen. Preparing for the plant sale is a group effort. Approximately 70 MGs are involved in preparing for and working at the plant sale but Mary Beth Kufrin and Marie Stolte are the two very organized, very hard working and very talented MGs who are “in charge.” Collecting Native Seeds The annual plant sale starts with collecting seeds. DCMGs encourage the use of native plants. Take a look at the many articles on our website about native plants and the environmental benefits of growing them. In the fall, DCMGs collect native plant seeds from Dakota County Parks and our own gardens. The seeds are cleaned and stratified as needed. The seeds are then taken home by several DCMGs who will plant and grow the native seedlings. The Greenhouse Crew In addition to the native plants grown by DCMGs, we buy a variety of vegetable seeds based on plants that our customers have preferred the past. In March, those seeds are planted in a greenhouse by a group of DCMG volunteers. The group is led by Marc Battistini, Jinny Berkopec and Lisa Hofmann – all very experienced and dedicated DCMGs who spend many hours directing the volunteers and caring for the young plants. For the plant sale this year, the greenhouse crew planted : 12 varieties of tomatoes, 13 varieties of peppers and a few varieties of herbs (including Asian herbs). Also, in March, the seedlings that have been nurtured by DCMGs at home (including houseplants) are moved to the greenhouse. Over 50 varieties of natives and several different landscape plants were seeded. The greenhouse crew waters and tends to the seedlings as they grow into more mature plants. As they mature, seedlings are transplanted into larger pots. In April, the maturing plants are moved to a “hoop house” on the grounds of UMORE Park. (A hoop house is a type of greenhouse that is covered in heavy-duty plastic.) The plants will have outgrown our current greenhouse (which also grows plants for our trial gardens) and the hoop house provides a roomier home for the plants. The hoop house also provides a good staging area for the plant sale. All of the hundreds of plants must be labeled and priced by another group of volunteers. And - our plant sale is well-known for its very reasonable prices . Digging and Bare-Rooting Established Plants Of course, we also provide plants that are established and grown in the gardens of DCMGs. DCMGs tend to grow perennials that will prosper in our part of Minnesota! They dig the plants out of their own gardens shortly before the sale. DCMGs crews go the homes of Dakota County residents with large numbers of appropriate plants and dig those plants, as well. You are probably aware that jumping worms have become a significant problem in Minnesota. Jumping worms can severely stunt or kill plants and are transferable in the soil around a plant’s roots. (Read the article on our website about the problems that jumping worms cause in gardens.) As a result, DCMGs don’t just transfer the plants directly from the ground to the pots that we sell. We go through a process called “bare-rooting.” Bare-rooting is the process of cleaning the roots of a plant. (Read our article on “ bare-rooting .”) Our established perennials will appear wrapped in wet newspaper and tubing. Presented this way, our plants may not look as “pretty” as in a garden store but you can be assured that you will not be importing jumping worms into your garden. And they carry the added benefit of being easier to transport and plant! Plant Sale Set up Finally, the day before the plant sale, the hundreds of plants that have been seeded and grown or dug from local gardens, are moved and set up at Empire Shelter at Whitetail Woods Regional Park, thanks to the generosity of Dakota County Parks and Recreation. In addition to the plants, DCMGs provide educational materials for display at the sale. After all, we don’t just view the plant sale as a fundraiser - the sale is a great opportunity to provide advice to homeowners about the plants. Part of the preparation for the plant sale is getting the word out. Providing information in the Garden Buzz, email, news outlets and other tools helps us to bring you in to our plant sale experience. Plant Sale Day As you might imagine, plant sale day is an “all-hands-on-deck” event for the DCMGs. We have volunteers walking the floor to provide advice and direct you to the appropriate plants. At the sale, you will also find a table labeled “Ask a Master Gardener” – DCMGs who are there to answer any gardening questions you may have. DCMGs are directing traffic, tending our “garage sale” and of course acting as cashiers. We know that there are many plant sales around the Twin Cities area in May. We hope that this article has helped explain why you should choose the DCMG plant sale for your gardening needs. Our plant sale provides home-grown, unique and healthy plants that, we think, cannot be found elsewhere. Come check us out on May 18th and see for yourself! Photo Credit: Robert Hatlevig (1,2,6), Jinny Berkopec (3,4,5), Marie Stolte (7), Robert Heidtke (8)

< Back Roasted Spiced Cauliflower Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Cauliflower has taken the nation by storm. 40 years ago, no one had hardly heard of it, now it seems like everyone has their favorite way to eat it from crunchy and raw with dip or as pizza crust! Cauliflower is a mild flavored, versatile vegetable, so it adapts well to many recipes. It is easy to grow in your garden, but make sure you are diligent in watching and controlling for pests who love to enjoy it too. This recipe heats it up with a mind-blowing array of spices, serving it with cool and creamy Burrata cheese and a crunchy topping of browned nuts/seeds and herbs. It’s a real flavor explosion and impressive to serve as a side dish. Ingredients 1 large head of cauliflower, leaves trimmed 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 2 teaspoons chili powder 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes Fine pink Himalayan salt and freshly ground black pepper Herb Mixture Ingredients 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 cup chopped mixed herbs, such as basil, dill, tarragon or cilantro. You can also use dried herbs, decrease quantity to 1 teaspoon of each ¼ cup mixed toasted nuts or seeds. I used sesame seeds, sunflower seeds and pinenuts roasted in a skillet in 2 teaspoons of butter 1 garlic clove, finely chopped or grated 8 ounces burrata cheese Process Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Cut away and discard the cauliflower stalk so the cauliflower can site flat on its underside, then cut a cross into the base. Place the cauliflower in a large Dutch oven or casserole dish. In a small bowl, stir together the paprika, chili powder, cumin, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, red pepper flakes, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Rub the spice mix all over the cauliflower. Drizzle the cauliflower with 1/3 cup of the olive oil, the balsamic vinegar and the lemon juice. Pour ¼ cup water into the bottom of the dish. Cover the cauliflower and bake for 1 hour or until fork tender. Remove the lid and bake for another 15 minutes until lightly charred on top. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the herbs, nuts, garlic, remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and a pinch each of red pepper flakes and salt. To serve, slice the burrata cheese onto each plate, place a serving of the blackened cauliflower alongside. Spoon the herb mixture all over the cauliflower and cheese. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Joy Johnson (2,3)

< Back Autumn Abundance: Fall Porch Pots Julie Deane, Dakota County Master Gardener As your summer plants dwindle and spindle, fall is the perfect time to refresh your front porch with a fun fall planter. The best part? You can create a beautiful autumn display by salvaging some of your existing plants and adding a few fall-friendly plants. In this article, learn how to use your existing plants and new fall plants to add some cheer and beauty to your garden. Gather Your Supplies Start with what you have and add a few fall finds: Summer survivors: Assess summer containers for vines and grasses and any blooming plants that fit your fall color scheme and can be reused. Often lantana and black-eyed Susan will continue blooming into fall and can be repurposed in your fall planters. Containers: Empty tired summer planters and repot with a fall theme. Or repurpose buckets, tin pails, old bushel baskets, wooden crates, or any type of basket. Lined with plastic or drill holes for drainage, these make charming, rustic planters. Farmstand finds: Support local farmers and add some corn shocks, gourds and pumpkins. Skewer small pumpkins and gourds on sticks or dowels for added texture. Craft materials: Twine, ribbons, or burlap scraps can dress up your containers and tie everything together. Pick Fall-Friendly Plants Choose plants that love cooler weather and bring out beautiful autumn hues, such as: Chrysanthemums (Mums): Vibrant flowers that bloom in yellow, orange, red, or purple. Ornamental Kale, Peppers and Cabbage: Add texture and deep green, purple, or white accents. Pansies and Violas: Hardy, cheerful flowers that thrive in fall’s mild temps. Asters: These daisy-like flowers come in lovely shades of blue, purple, and pink. Grasses: Varieties like fountain grass or millet provide height and movement, and some are deep purple in color. Trailing vines: Ivy or Creeping Jenny cascade beautifully over planter edges.If you have leftover herbs (like sage or thyme) from summer, tuck them in for texture and fragrance. Assembly Steps Prepare Your Base: Ensure your selected container has drainage holes or line it appropriately. Fill with potting mix. Gather your Treasures: Carefully extract any summer plants that will be reused, protecting the root base as you transplant to the fall container. Gather any other items to add to the planter as well. Arrange Your Plants: Place taller plants, like grasses or kale, in the back or center. Fill around with mums, asters, and pansies for color. Let vines or trailing plants spill over the edges. Tuck in decorative items—mini pumpkins, pinecones, sticks, or even faux leaves. Add Finishing Touches: Secure burlap or ribbon around the rim. Nestle in some twigs, berry branches, hydrangea blossoms, or a small decorative sign for added charm. Tips for Success Cluster multiple planters: Vary heights and shapes for an eye-catching display. Check your summer pots to see if you can re-use some yellow, orange or purple bloomers or some of your vines. Use straw bales to vary the height and add dimension to your space. Water regularly: Fall can be dry, so check soil moisture often. Remember to water at the soil and not on the foliage or blooms for best results. Use what’s plentiful: Gather colorful leaves, branches, or seed pods locally for a natural look. Tuck in hydrangea blooms for a fuller look. Enjoy Your Fall Planters With a little creativity and items already on hand, you can build a front porch planter that celebrates the season in style. Add some straw bales or corn shocks for even more fall flare. Each time you walk up to your front door, you’ll be greeted by a burst of fall colors and textures—proof that a little resourcefulness (and a lot of autumn spirit) can go a long way. Photo Credit: https://momcrieff.com/fall-planter/ (1), www.merrifieldgardencenter.com (2), www.pinterest.co.uk (3), www.gardengatemagazine.com (4)

< Back Rain Gardens Whether you live in a city or along a lake or river, managing storm water run-off is something to consider in your landscape. Read this article to finds ways to do it. Whether you live in a city or along a lake or river, managing storm water run-off is something to consider in your landscape. Roof tops, roads, driveways and sidewalks create impervious surfaces. These surfaces cannot absorb water. If rainwater and snow melt is not able to be absorbed into the soil, run-off occurs. Run-off can carry sediments and pollutants such as oil, pet waste, debris and nutrients from lawn clippings and fertilizers. These pollutants can then end up in our rivers and lakes. Even municipal storm sewers may lead directly to rivers and lakes. Simply put, a rain garden is a shallow depression filled with selected trees, shrubs, flowering plants and grasses designed to allow rainwater run-off to absorb into the soil. Rain gardens help to filter pollutants, absorb nutrients and allow sediments to settle before entering the ground water. Rain gardens are also useful in controlling erosion by trapping and allowing the water to infiltrate rather than run down a slope. Also, rain gardens may add interest and beauty to a landscape, or add elements to attract butterflies and birds. While rain gardens are a popular trend right now, not all landscapes offer suitable sites. There needs to be enough room to allow water to be absorbed into the soil and not seep into a nearby building or basement. Also, if the soil is heavy clay or already saturated ponding may occur; and ponds have a different purpose in the landscape. Some situations can be amended to allow for proper infiltration. In these cases it is best to consult a specifically trained professional. Dakota Soil Water & Conservation District offers Landscaping for Clean Water workshops in rain garden design and implementation. Site selection, size, shape, choosing proper plants and other materials, and maintenance are all topics covered in the workshops. Demonstration sites have been planted as part of previous workshops to show how attractive and beneficial rain gardens may be.

< Back Sustainable Gardening Clean Up Practices Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener As the summer growing season comes to an end, we in the gardening community know our work is not quite done. With the end of the season comes the start of the next, and before you know it, it's already time to clean up your garden. Before you start this necessary process, consider how a few simple sustainable practices can help support your garden’s long-term health while helping local systems thrive. Why do sustainable practices matter? They can help reduce your overall garden waste. They address some of the environmental impacts of conventional cleanup. They improve soil health. They help with biodiversity in your area, bugs and critters alike. Leave the Leaves (Strategically) Mulch . One of the best things you can do with your fall leaf litter is to turn it into useful mulch. Mulching is the process of breaking down dried fall leaves into small parts. This helps leaves break down easier and can promote soil and lawn health. Mulch can be used for insulating flower beds and it helps key nutrients return into the soil. Mulching leaves can be done with specific lawnmowers or electric leaf shredders, but there are also some easy to do free alternatives. You can stomp them in a trash bag, use gardening shears, or even run them over with a car . One recent study from the University of Wisconsin found that using 2-5 inches of mulched leaves for winter lawn cover resulted in greener grass throughout the summer and resulted in fewer weeds than unmulched leaves . Another benefit of leaving leaf litter strategically around your yard is the shelter they provide beneficial insects like pollinators . Multiple insects like bees, butterflies, and moths use remnants of your garden to overwinter in. Leaving some areas with leaf piles, dead plant stems, and even tree bark can provide beneficial insects with the necessary cover to survive the winter. Cut Plants Back Selectively It can be tempting to cut back your plants (perennials and shrubs) every fall, but leaving some plant material standing, like dead plant stems, leaves, and even flowers, can provide additional nutrients to your gardens. In addition, leaving flower heads behind is beneficial not just to your garden’s bug population but the local birds as well. Coneflowers, sunflowers, and other prairie flowers provide seeds to birds throughout the winter. Leaving them up can provide them with a good food source, and a habitat source for small creatures. Also, if you do need to cut these plants back, consider cutting the top two-thirds down; some insects specifically overwinter in the bottom one-third of the plant stalk . However, it is always recommended to cut dead or diseased plants to remove any infestation entirely. Pollinator Compost Smarter Composting piles are a good way to turn plant materials and more, into usable mulch that can provide great nutrients back to your plants! Composting is the process of letting natural occurring processes break down plant and yard waste resulting in a great soil amendment or mulch. Besides grass and leaves, many other organic materials are compostable, such as: Coffee grounds Eggshells Faded flowers Fruit and vegetable scraps Lake plants Leftover plants at the end of the gardening season Nonwoody shrub trimmings or twigs less than one-fourth inch in diameter Shredded newspaper (black and white print) Small amounts of wood ash and sawdust Straw Weeds Taking the time to build or buy a structure to start a compost pile can produce faster and more thorough composting, getting more benefits from your garden leftovers. While composting can seem hard to learn, this guide from the University of Minnesota, can provide a better understanding of how to start your own! Reuse Garden Waste Creatively If your garden cleanup consists of more wood-based debris, or you have any woody invasives, consider using those leftover materials to either make a brush pile for smaller animals or make a natural trellis! Making a brush pile can be great as it provides natural protection for small animals , such as songbirds, small mammals, and even foxes or skunks ! In addition, as the brush decays it will also provide great nutrients for insects, which are a great food source for other animals like birds and small mammals . Small brush piles stacked strategically could even be used as a good shelter for small saplings from deer ! To build one, start with larger branches or logs as a base and then add smaller branches on top. Besides brush piles, larger branches and bendable sticks can be used to make a trellis for any of your climbing garden plants ! This offers a fun DIY opportunity to make use of every part of your garden! These good gardening practices, as you clean up your garden, can make a big difference for your local ecosystem. This fall, bring your garden into balance with nature by trying a few of these tricks yourself! Photo Credits: https://atlaslawnandsnow.com (1,2), https://source.roboflow.com (3), https://images.rawpixel.com (4)

< Back Poinsettias – A Home in Mexico and Dr. Poinsett Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener The Poinsettia is a weed in its native Mexico. It is called lobster plant or Mexican Flame Leaf and has become an essential part of North America’s Christmas décor. The poinsettia that adorns mantles, coffee tables, and bookcases across North America is a descendant of a 6-foot shrub from which growers in Scandinavia and California developed the scaled-down varieties that bloom indoors. All poinsettias are winter-flowering shrubs that are noted for the bright red bracts or leaves. Modern plants have bracts that measure 12-15 inches with green leaves. The real flowers are the insignificant, greenish-yellow center clusters. Today plants can be purchased in many colors from white, peppermint (red & white,) pink and others. Keep a Poinsettia at normal room temperature (60-80 degrees) in a bright filtered location such as opposite light filtering blinds. Water only when the foliage droops slightly: the potting soil should then be totally saturated. No fertilization is necessary. Most individuals discard the plant soon after the holidays but with care you can have bright red bracts until April. Some enthusiasts will attempt to follow the strict schedule of taking cuttings or allow the cut back stump to develop new growth. Commercial producers follow a strict routine that is difficult for the home grower to mimic. Poinsettias are short-day plants; the flower and bract formation is prompted by an eight-week period of 14 hours total uninterrupted darkness and 10 hours of light daily. Plants are treated with a dwarfing chemical that reduces stem length, which results in the Poinsettia plant we know today. Poinsettias are readily available so this procedure is not needed to enjoy this beautiful plant. The Legend of the Poinsettia by Tomie dePaola tells the story of a young Mexican girl who had nothing for the manger scene on Christmas Eve. She picked tall green weeds to place around the stable and as the congregation prayed bright red star flowers burst open on the weed tips, casting a warm glow around the manger scene. The people named the plant la Flor de Nochebuena or Flower of the Holy Night. Dr. Joel Roberts Poinsett, the US ambassador to Mexico from 1825-1830, brought the shrub to the United States in 1830 because the bright red leaves, which he thought to be the flower, fascinated him. He took cuttings from shrubs growing near his Mexican residence to his home in South Carolina. The plant was named for Dr. Poinsett as the Poinsettia. Nothing says Merry Christmas like a bright red Poinsettia. Remember to thank Dr. Poinsett for this cheerful holiday plant! For more details on caring for poinsettia, visit this UMN Extension link. Additional sources: Tomie dePaola. The Legend of the Poinsettia. G.P. Putmans & Sons, 1994. Huxley Anthony, Editor. Success with House Plants, Readers Digest,1979.

< Back Growing Plants Without Soil Although the last few winter months hang on, the hours of daylight continue to lengthen and many of us, including the little ones in our lives, are itching to see green. Green grass. Green leaves. Any new green growth. But even with a desire to have living, green plants around us and in our homes, some kids just aren’t excited about gardening. One reason may be that they don’t like the feel of soil or getting dirty. If this sounds like a kiddo in your life, read on to learn how to grow lovely green things while staying warm, and relatively clean, inside. Kasha Zeman, Dakota County Master Gardener When it comes to growing plants indoors, there are many options, including soilless methods. These soilless methods are especially good for kids who are interested in plants, and like the idea of gardening, but just don’t like to get their hands dirty. If this sounds like a child you know, some options that may work for them include growing from seed, propagation, or re-growing plants from scraps of vegetables and fruits in your home. Starting from Seed Starting plants from seed can be done in different ways. It can be done using plastic bags and paper towels, in eggshells with wool cloth, or in used yogurt containers and coffee filters. No matter which option you and your budding gardener(s) choose, know that these plants will eventually need to be transferred into soil in larger containers if you want the magic to continue. An easy seed starting activity, and one with quick germination (sprouting from a seed) and very few materials, is starting seeds or legumes in a plastic bag. All that is required are a plastic resealable bag, a paper towel, a few staples, 3-4 lentils (1-7 days for germination) or lima beans (7-18 days for germination), and some water. First, soak the legumes for a few hours until the coating starts to change texture. While they are soaking, fold a paper towel to fit the entire width of the plastic bag. Next, dampen the paper towel, but drain any excess water from the bag as too much water may make the legumes rot. Next, put a few staples through both sides of the bag and the paper towel. These staples will create a nice ledge for the legumes to rest on and give everyone a better view of the roots as they grow. When the soaking is complete, place the legumes inside the bag and on top of the staples. Finally, seal the bag and tape it to a window in a sunny location. If the window is cold, find a warm sunny place to leave the bag. Depending on the type of legume you chose, bean or lentil, you could see growth as early as a day, but more realistically, it could be closer to a week, depending on the growing conditions. Propagation If, instead of starting from seed, you decide you would like to try propagation, the easiest option for going soilless is using plant cuttings. Plant cuttings can be placed right into water without the need for rooting hormones. Some types of plants that are easily propagated in water are pothos, philodendron, monstera, and jade. If you don’t have any houseplants of your own, try asking a neighbor or a friend. Chances are, someone close to you has a plant they are willing to let you take a cutting from. When you take a cutting from a plant, you want to pay special attention to the nodes. These are the parts of a plant that look like a juncture, the spot on a stem off of which a leaf grows. When propagating, it is important to have a couple of nodes and a couple of the topmost leaves. Too many leaves and the nutrients will go toward keeping the leaves healthy instead of growing roots. Too few leaves and there won’t be enough left for photosynthesis to take place. If you are using a cutting from a jade plant, follow the previous instructions. However, leave more of the leaves on the stem - 6-10, depending on the size of the cutting. Also, let the cutting sit out for a few days to let the stem callous. This makes it less likely for any rot to set in. When you are done prepping your cutting, find a clear drinking glass or jam jar. Clear glasses and jars allow you to watch your new plant’s roots grow! When you place your plant in water, make sure none of the leaves are touching the water or submerged. This will cause your leaves to rot, thus damaging your plant. Re-Growing The last method of soilless gardening discussed in this article is the re-growing of fruits and vegetables from either leftover scraps or produce that may be past their prime. Not all fruits and vegetables can be re-grown, but romaine lettuce, celery, and even avocados are prime examples of produce that have the ability to re-grow. If you are re-growing romaine lettuce or celery, simply cut off the stalks 1-2 inches from the base. Put the cut side up in a clear glass or bowl and fill the vessel with water, making sure to keep the base submerged. Change the water out every few days. Please note that browning to the cut side of these plants is normal. In addition, the warmer and sunnier the spot you choose for your plant the better it will do. Within a week, you and your little ones should see new celery and/or lettuce growing from the cut side. If re-growing an avocado seed, wash and dry the seed. Place 3-4 toothpicks or wooden skewers into the sides of the seed. Rest the toothpicks on the rim of a jar or clear glass, making sure the pointed part of the seed faces up and the flatter end rests partially in the vessel. Fill the vessel with warm water, making sure water is always touching the bottom of the seed. Change the water every few days. Just like with lettuce and celery, the warmer and sunnier the location, the happier your plant will be. Here’s hoping the little ones in your lives enjoy some soilless gardening indoors. Please remember, at some point all of these plants should be transferred to soil. For more information on that, check out the University of Minnesota Extension resources regarding propagation. Resources : Gardening Lab for Kids by: Renata Fossen Brown Get Growing by: Holly Farrell https://www.thespruce.com/jade-plant-propagation-7371399 https://www.gardentech.com/blog/gardening-and-healthy-living/growing-food-from-kitchen-scraps https://www.ruralsprout.com/regrow-vegetables/ Photo Credit: ruralsprout.com (all creative commons)(1), lifeovercs.com (2), lovethatleaf.co.nz (3), pexels.com (4)