< Back Dividing Irises and Peonies Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Intern Now that the Peony and Iris blossoms are gone for the season it's the perfect time to dig and divide the crowded plants. This article will help you prepare these plants for next year's season of beautiful blooms. The dog days of summer are upon us. It’s a great time to enjoy the fruits of your labors by harvesting fruits and veggies you have meticulously tended. Or maybe your garden presents a feast for your eyes, exploding with color or calming the senses with cool and shady textures. Before you get too comfortable sitting back and taking it all in, now is the perfect time to dig in and divide your crowded peonies and irises as their showy blossoms have faded away until next year. Dividing Irises The US Forest Service tells us there are approximately 280 species of irises in the world; this article will focus on the bearded iris. It is undeniably a popular choice among gardeners and it’s no wonder because of the rainbow of colors they provide in the garden. In fact, the origin of their name can be traced back to Greek mythology where Iris was the messenger traveling on a rainbow between the heavens and earth, thus the meaning of the name Iris is rainbow. Author Madison Moulton, a historian and political scientist, writes that cultivation of the iris plant can be traced back 2000 years to ancient Egypt. Throughout the centuries, it became a royal symbol, making its appearance on royal banners and coats of arms as the fleur-de-lis. In more recent times, the bearded iris, or Iris germanica, was named the state flower of Tennessee, and the fleur-de-lis is also the symbol of New Orleans. Now that you know the history of this garden beauty, it’s time to learn about how to divide this noble plant to keep it healthy and blooming in your garden for years to come. The University of Illinois Extension reminds us that the hundreds of species of irises can be separated into two groups – rhizomatous and bulbous. The bulbous irises are planted in the fall along with other fall planted bulbs. The bearded iris, however, falls into the group of rhizomes. Rhizomes are underground stems that store food for the plant. The University of Minnesota Extension points out that during August, irises tend to go dormant, making it the perfect time to divide them. As irises mature, rhizomes keep producing more and more rhizomes and crowd themselves out. Benefits of regular division every three to five years include more profuse flowering, and it helps prevent problems like iris borer and soft rot. The University of Illinois Extension suggests dividing that often, especially if your iris patch is producing noticeably fewer blooms. Using a shovel or pitchfork, carefully lift the plants out of the soil. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension offers the tip to water the ground thoroughly the day before if the soil is particularly dry to make lifting the plants easier. If possible, try to lift an entire clump and divide the rhizomes once you have lifted it and shaken or washed off the soil to inspect the rhizomes. If you notice any soft spots on the rhizomes or dark streaks on the leaves, iris borers are probably to blame. Extract and kill any caterpillars you find and use a sharp, clean knife or shears to cuts away any damaged parts. Any soft, smelly, or rotted material should be destroyed rather than placing it in the compost. As Penn State Extension suggests, you can probably break apart the rhizomes with your hands, but if you need to use a knife, it is a good idea to dip it in a 10% bleach and water solution after each cut. The University of Wisconsin-Madison tells us to make sure each new plant division has a firm rhizome, is light-colored, at least 3 inches long with healthy roots, and has a fan of leaves. Penn State Extension adds that a good rhizome should be about as thick as your thumb. While dividing your iris, it is recommended you cut back the leaves to about a third of their height. The University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension notes that this makes the plants easier to work with and helps reduce transpiration while the plant becomes reestablished. Using clean shears works fine for this step. Now it is time to plant! Penn State Extension instructs us to dig a shallow hole 10 inches across by 4 inches deep and to build up a small mound of soil in the center. Set the rhizome on the mound with the roots cascading down the mound into the hole. Fill the hole with dirt leaving the top of the rhizome just visible. A common mistake is to plant irises too deep. Penn State Extension also recommends that for the most attractive display, plant single rhizomes or groups of three, 12 to 18 inches apart, with the fans of leaves all facing the same direction. Water thoroughly and do not add mulch to avoid rot. Dividing Peonies Ella Fitzgerald and Louis Armstrong once sang, “Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off” when they couldn’t agree if it was a tomato or tomahto or potato or potahto. Here is a question for you: Do you call it a pee-uh-nee or pee-o-nee? According to dictionary.com , the correct pronunciation is… pee-uh-nee. With that settled, let’s learn about dividing peonies. Unlike irises that thrive from frequent divisions, it is said that a peony plant left in the garden may well outlive the gardener! Peonies can go 50 to even 100 years without needing to be divided. However, that does not mean a gardener should never divide a peony plant. Reasons for dividing may be to have more peonies for free, to share, or to bring along part of a peony if a gardener is moving yet wants to keep a plant that has been in the family for generations. Iowa State University Extension suggests that September is the best time to divide peonies. They recommend to first cut back the stems nearly to ground level. Next, carefully dig up the plant and then wash or shake the soil off the roots. Penn State Extension reminds us to remove any rotted material. The University of Illinois Extension notes that if dividing a large mature plant, you may dig up just half of the plant at a time. Use a sharp knife to divide the tuberous main root, called the crown, so that each wedge includes three to five pink or white-colored buds, or eyes, and one to two large main roots so that it can gather enough energy to provide for next year’s growth. Dig a generous hole and plant the new clumps so that the three to five “pink eyes’ are pointed side up and one to two inches below ground level, and space the plants two to three feet apart. Fill the hole back up with soil. University of Illinois Extension recommends for best results to add about an inch of organic matter such as compost or peat along with an inch of topsoil to cover the pink or white eyes. Be sure to water regularly throughout the fall if it doesn’t rain. It is also a good idea to apply mulch before winter. By following these steps, you should have happy, healthy plants that will continue to provide you with beautiful flowers for years to come. Photos credit: Susan Mahr, University of Wisconsin Extension (1, 2, 3, 4), Lisa Olson (5), University of Pennsylvania Extension (6)

< Back Moving Houseplants Outdoors for a Summer Vacation Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener You have been enjoying your indoor plants during our long, cold winter. But soon it will be time to think about transitioning some of those plants outdoors. March might seem a bit early to think about moving your indoor plants to the outdoors but plants do require a transition time and warm weather will be here sooner than you think. There are many reasons that you might move your houseplants outdoors for the summer. But there are several things to consider to ensure that your plants flourish as a result of this move. As we plan our outdoor gardens, we consider which plants can survive in the different environments in our yards, taking into account the amount of sun and the type of soil. When we obtain plants for inside our homes, we are selecting plants that can survive in the environment inside our homes. These plants do not require full sun. But they can definitely benefit from a visit outdoors. Why would you want to bring your houseplants outdoors? Sun First of all, the plants can benefit from the stronger sun rays. The strength of the sun’s rays is significantly stronger outdoors even than the sun a plant receives when placed by a south-facing window. Easter Cactus moved outdoors bloomed for the first time Rain Secondly, the plants can benefit from rainfall. Slightly acidic ph is better for overall soil health and makes nutrients more available. Rain water generally has a ph between 5.0 and 5.5. (The acidity scale runs from 0 to 14 with lower levels indicating high acid levels and higher levels more alkaline.) The acidity of tap water varies among communities but generally has a ph between 6 and 8.5. So, the acidity level of rain can strengthen plants. Rainwater also contains nutrients that can benefit the plants themselves. In addition, rain can wash the dust and other particles that have been collected on your houseplants. They’re Pretty! Finally, houseplants can be used to beautify your deck or patio and eliminate or reduce the need to purchase plants that you will discard at the end of summer. The plants can also be incorporated into your garden, either directly in the ground or by placing the potted plant among your outdoor plants. Things to Think About Temperature : The move outdoors shouldn’t begin until the temperature is above 50 or 60 degrees. Phases : Make the move in phases. First move all your plants to a shady area, even those plants that can benefit from stronger sunlight. Keep plants that prefer shade (those plants that weren’t kept near a south-facing window), in this location. Other plants should be moved to a sunny location over the course of a week or 10 days. Water : Plants do require a difference in care outdoors than indoors. First of all, plants grow more quickly during the summer months and this growth spurt will generally be intensified when plants are placed outdoors. Therefore, plants will require more water and more fertilizer. The amount of water and the frequency of watering will depend on the type of plant, the type of pot (clay pots are porous and therefore moisture will escape through the pots while water in plastic pots can only be absorbed in the soil and can only escape through drainage holes), and other factors such as the amount of rain and humidity. Water your plants on their schedule, not yours. Check to see if your plant needs watering by sticking a finger about ½ inch into the soil. If the soil is dry, water. Fertilizer : House plants should not be fertilized during the winter months. During those months when there is reduced light and temperature, they experience reduced growth. However, they will benefit from fertilizer during the summer months. This is particularly true if the plants have been moved outdoors. Be sure to use fertilizer that is labeled for indoor plants and follow the instructions on the package regarding the amount and frequency of application. Too much fertilizer can result in a buildup of salts and excessive, leggy growth. Repotting : When outside you might want to repot those plants that have become root-bound so you won’t create a mess indoors. Some signs that your plant may need repotting include, roots growing through the drainage holes, the plant becoming top-heavy, or the plant growing slower than in the past. When transplanting to another pot, the new pot should only be 1-2 inches larger than the original pot. The Negatives Keep in mind things that might negatively impact your plants. Large rainfalls and heavy winds might have adverse effects on plants. Remember to consider the amount of rainfall the plants experienced when deciding when your plants need watering. Watch for heavy winds that might cause large or top-heavy plants to fall over. Watch for signs that your plants are sun-scorched. Indications of sun scorch are leaves that become brittle and turn yellow or brown. Generally, if caught early, you can remove the impacted leaves and move the plants to a shadier location. Watch for pests that might set up household on your plants or the pots holding your plants. Many of these pests don’t harm your plants, but you will want to eliminate them before moving your plants back indoors. Photo Credit: Carol Fuerstneau (1), Linda Stein (2, 3), Steve Greenstein (4)

< Back DIY Suet/Seed Feeders for our Feathered Friends BJ Hansell, Master Gardener As I write this, it’s nearly Halloween. Outside there is a flurry of activity. A multitude of birds including blue jays, cardinals, woodpeckers (both hairy & downy), house and gold finches, juncos, and my absolute favorites - chickadees, are flitting about. They voraciously attack and consume seeds and nuts in preparation for the rapidly approaching winter. Read this article to see how you and the child in your life can help our feathered friends. I have quite a variety of seeds, nuts, and suet feeders. But in December the kids are getting restless for something to do. The ever popular “I’m bored,” resonates through the house. I’m eager to have them take a break from screen time. How about crafting homemade bird feeders? There are several hands-on options for nearly any age to show their creativity. The projects tend to be a bit messy. But hey, when you’re a kid messy is GOOD. While we work on the feeders, we can discuss: o the different birds that hang out in the yard, o how to identify them o what they prefer to eat o where they sleep & seek shelter from the weather For example: About black-capped chickadees : o Males & Females look the same; a small gray bird with a black cap and throat patch. Tan sides & belly; white chest; small white wing marks. o Small Pointy beak o Seeds black oil sunflower, safflower; peanuts; mealworms o Cavity dweller, found in forests, woodlots, backyard nest box The recipes, supplies and instructions for making these birdfeeders appear at each of the listed sites. Song bird seed mix is available in most any grocery or home improvement store. Traditionally suet is made from rendered animal fat. The recipes here substitute shortening (Audubon) and gelatin (NWF). The pine cone feeders use peanut butter (Cornell). 1- Audubon Recipe , Materials are listed below the Video Demonstration: 2- NWF: Suet Ornaments (can use the Audubon Recipe): 3- Cornell Lab: Pine Cone Feeders DO NOT forget a source of water. Bon Appé-TWEET! Credit: https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Black-capped_Chickadee/overview# Photo credits: www.midgetmomma.com (All Creative Commons) (1), www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2,3)

< Back Identifying and Attracting Beneficial Insects Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Now that the plants in our gardens are starting to bloom, we are also seeing insects on those plants. Some of those insects are certainly pests but others are actually beneficial. We know how pollinators are beneficial insects - many of the foods we enjoy rely on pollinators for fruit and seed development. But how do we identify other insects that are beneficial to our gardens and landscapes in other ways? Read this article to find out! Now that the plants in our gardens are starting to bloom, we are also seeing insects on those plants. Some of those insects are certainly pests but others are actually beneficial. We know how pollinators are beneficial insects - many of the foods we enjoy rely on pollinators for fruit and seed development. But how do we identify other insects that are beneficial to our gardens and landscapes in other ways. Beneficial insects (at various stages in their life cycle and using multiple methods) can help manage the populations of insect pests like aphids. Some examples of beneficial insects include ground beetles, lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid flies and a variety of solitary and parasitoid wasps. Many of the recommendations for attracting pollinators to your garden—planting a variety of flowering plants, including native plants in your landscape or providing a water source/feature—are also true for encouraging beneficial insect visits. But beneficial insects need more than the aphids and larvae you want them to eliminate. They need pollen and nectar for energy and places to shelter and overwinter to encourage them to stay in your space. Here are several gardening strategies to attract and retain beneficial insects in your garden: Have an array of perennial and annual plants flowering consistently throughout the growing season. Leave some aphids on plants. Allow some plant litter to stay on the ground over winter. Limit or eliminate the use of pesticides. Certain plants also attract beneficial insects. In many cases, smaller flowers will attract smaller insects like syrphid flies. Some flowers commonly listed as attracting beneficial insects that do well in Minnesota gardens are: yarrow, dill, alyssum, cosmos, gem marigolds, clover, cinquefoils, fennel, lemon balm and milkweeds. For more ideas, check the internet for lists of plants that attract beneficial insects. Before adding any new plants to your yard in order to attract beneficial insects, check your local DNR list of invasive species to ensure there isn’t crossover. For example, common tansy and Queen Anne’s Lace are often listed as plants that will attract beneficial insects. But in Minnesota, both are considered noxious weeds and it is illegal to import, sell or transport them within the state. You can purchase many species of beneficial insects online. Before doing so, take a few things into consideration: Can you follow the release instructions exactly? Will you need to repeat the process? Insects often…fly away. Is the pest you are hoping to eliminate a serious problem? It can often be more sustainable to make your landscape more welcoming to beneficial insects than trying to repeatedly introduce species that have been ordered from other sources. For more information on specific beneficial insects, their life cycle and what they can do for your garden visit this U of MN Extension site. Take some time to learn more about the insects that you want to attract to your garden. Your plants will appreciate it! Photo Credit: Joanna Kapke (1,2,3)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.

< Back Seed Buying Do’s & Don’ts” Happy New Year! It’s time to pack up decorations, and pack-off the visiting relatives. Now is “me” time. Grab a “cuppa” your favorite beverage, snuggle into a throw, review your notes from last year’s growing season and begin perusing seed catalogs. This article provides suggestions about things to consider when purchasing seeds. BJ Hansell, Master Gardener Most every gardening-related resource online will advise you that the best time to order seeds is between the months of January and April. That is mostly because seed sellers publish their catalogs around the December holidays. Additionally, the orders should be arriving before planting time. Before completing a deep-dive into seed catalogs, checkout The Dakota County Seed Library that is maintained through a partnership between the Dakota County Library, Dakota County Library Foundation and the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners. It is located at the Farmington Library. If you are searching for a wonderful variety of seeds please avail yourself of this service. The collection includes Edibles, Flowers, Herbs and “Others.” Did I mention the seeds are FREE? FREE SEEDS!! Click on this link www.co.dakota.mn.us , enter “Seed Library” in the search box, then follow the resulting Seed Library link. There you can learn about the mission of the Seed Library, the list of current seed inventory and how to acquire seeds. Donors for this season include Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, and personal donations. The inventory will be updated during January & February 2024. We also operate an ongoing ‘ Seed Drive'. Everyone is encouraged to participate. We request heirloom varieties packaged for 2023 or later in the supplier’s original packet. Hybrid varieties and clearly labeled collected seeds may be added directly to one of our 'Share' drawers. This resource is especially useful if you do not want large quantities of particular seeds. As you begin collecting seeds, they should be stored in low-light and low-humidity environments. They should experience as little temperature fluctuation as possible. Photo storage boxes are a great example of one method for compact & organized seed storage. Here is a summary of 10 tips for buying seeds online and in catalogs. 1. Ask gardeners you trust to find out what companies they like and have had success with. A good source is a Dakota County Master Gardener. 2. Call the company and see how you like their responses to your questions. Do they have knowledgeable staff on hand to answer your gardening and planting questions? 3. How long have they been in business? Just because they’re new, doesn’t make them bad. But the companies that have been around a long time must be doing something right. 4. Are you looking for something specific? Some companies specialize in only certain plants while others are more generalist. If you’re looking for only certified organic, or heirloom for example, those companies are out there. Be aware there are plenty of specialty companies. 5. Don’t over buy . This is a common mistake. It is easy to be sucked into the pretty pictures and before you know it, you’ve purchased way more than you’ll have time to plant or that you’ll have room to grow. Partner with a fellow gardener to share large quantities at perhaps a better value. 6. How much are shipping costs? Sometimes it can be more than the seeds. Companies can vary a great deal here. Know the whole cost, not just the price of the seeds or plants. 7. Make sure the seeds you are buying are fresh and packaged for that year. Deeply discounted seeds may be out of date. Although still viable in many cases, they do begin to decline in their rate of germination success as they get older and/or stored improperly. Remember, you get what you pay for. 8. Know approximately how many seeds are in a pack. Some packs have more seeds than you’ll need, while others will surprise you at the small amount provided. It pays to inquire to save the disappointment of finding out you didn’t get enough. 9. Know if what you are ordering will grow in your zone and conditions. It is so easy to assume you’ll get results like those in the picture. In reality, without just the right conditions, your results could vary greatly. Take note of the updated 2023 USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map . 10. Don’t be afraid to try new things. You won’t blow your life’s savings on an order of seeds so if you’re feeling lucky, go for it. Experimenting is one of the best parts of gardening. Nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say. See you next month when another knowledgeable MG will share information on seed starting! Resource: https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/10-tips-for-buying-seeds-online-and-in-catalogs/ Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gearacres.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Why are Those Bugs Swarming Around My Front Door? Julie Harris, Master Gardener As the weather is growing cooler, you may be experiencing a mass of bugs swarming your outside walls and doors. As we get prepared for winter, the bugs that don’t die off, survive by burying themselves in the soil, or leaves. But there are a few who want very much to spend the winter inside your home. The “big three” offenders are boxelder bugs, Asian lady beetles, and brown marmorated stinkbugs. These bugs may not be noticeable in the summer when they live and feed on sources in your yard. As the weather grows cold, however, they look for ways to get into your warm house. They are especially drawn to the part of your house that gets afternoon sun. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug These bugs are most prolific during hot, dry summers following warm springs. This year may have produced the right conditions for them to be quite plentiful. In the fall, the bugs look for cracks and spaces around doors and windows to sneak into your house. While they are not generally harmful, they can be an annoyance. They don’t feed on wood or other building materials and they don’t spread disease to people or pets. However, Asian lady beetles sometimes bite when handled and they, along with the stinkbugs create a bad smell when stressed or crushed. Asian Lady Beetles The best way to manage these bugs is to seal cracks and holes around windows, doors and foundations. Check window screens, broken seals around doors and windows. Don’t forget to look at the seals around wires, pipes, vents, soffits and fascias. If you have large invasions, you can treat the outside of your home with an insecticide treatment although targeting these bugs is difficult. As they are not feeding while they are trying to invade your home, pesticides may not work. (Note that any use of pesticides must be done with utmost care as they carry some risk.) Once inside, your best option is to remove them with a vacuum or broom or just crushing them. Note that vacuuming won’t kill the bugs, so they should be disposed of outside. These bugs generally do not live for more than a few days inside your home when they are active but they can be a nuisance, staining surfaces with their excrement. Some bugs remain inactive in your home over the winter. If you see them inside in the spring, they are waking up and trying to go outside. They are generally slow moving and can be eliminated fairly easily. In short, these bug invaders are big on the ICK scale but generally can be controlled without causing harm. References: https://extension.umn.edu/nuisance-insects/boxelder-bugs https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/boxelder-bugs-5-522/ https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/temperatures-fall-home-invading-insects-come-knocking Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), University of Minnesota Extension, Susan Ellis, bugwood.org (2)

< Back Grow Pear Trees Successfully In Your Back Yard Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Pear trees can be just as easy if not easier to grow than apples! Find out how in this article. I am sorry to report that Partridges are a mostly ground-dwelling bird, so you’ll likely not see any in your trees. www.allaboutbirds.org Do partridges occur in pear trees? Around this time of year we do receive a spike in sightings of partridges in pear trees, although curiously there never seems to be more than one individual reported per pear tree. Both partridges and pear trees are Old World species that have been introduced into North America, which means that th Pears originated in central Asia and have spread around the world. They have been hybridized to survive in hardiness zones 4-8, although some can tolerate zone 3. The blossoms will die if there is a spring freeze of 24F°. Pear trees can be up to 40’ tall, but there are some semi-dwarfing rootstocks that will result in a 15-20’ tree. Most pears fruit on spurs. Spurs form on wood that is two years or older. Fruit buds are fat and furry, leaf buds are slender and smooth. Fruiting spur Pear trees will do reasonably well in a wide range of soil types, although they don’t like wet feet. Pear trees require full sunlight all day long. You will need two varieties of pears for optimum pollination. “Summer Crisp” and “Patton” work well together; both have a certain amount of disease resistance and are hardy here. Fire-blight is the most serious disease and should be pruned out to a minimum of 6” below the disease. The pests that can attack pear trees are rabbits and voles (winter bark damage), deer (browsing and antler rubbing). Japanese beetles feed on pear leaves, but not to damaging levels. This link includes planting instructions: https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-pears Pruning is just cuts and consequences. A plant can be pruned at any time of year – you’ll just get different consequences. Begin pruning a pear tree in late winter before the buds begin to swell. Earlier pruning encourages water sprouts and suckering in spring and summer and also increases the chances of winter injury to the pruning sites. Summer pruning of fruit trees controls excess growth on a tree by removing energy-wasting water sprouts. Summer is also a good time to remove leafy upper branches that excessively shade fruit on lower branches. https://extension.psu.edu/pruning-apples-and-pears-in-home-fruit-plantings A few weeks after pruning, new growth will be vigorous and can have very narrow crotch angles. To prevent this, you need to force the new shoots to a more horizontal growth pattern. If a limb is not spread, as in the picture to the left, a bark inclusion can develop, i.e. the bark of the trunk and the branch grow together. This weakens the branch and can be an entry point for disease. Weak branch angle with bark inclusion A wide-angled branch, results in a stronger branch that can carry future heavy crops. Limb spreaders improve the tree shape and form strong crotch angles. Young branches can be clothes pinned, tied or weighted down. Spreaders can be either short pieces of wood with sharpened nails driven into each end or sharpened metal rods. Spreaders should remain in place until the branch "stiffens up" (1-2 years). Strong branch angle The summer after the first winter pruning, remove any water sprouts that grow on a heavily pruned tree. Water sprouts grow around pruning cuts. If you use pruning shears, you never quite get the entire shoot. Instead, pull the shoots off the trunk and major side branches, shoots can be pulled off safely throughout the season as long as their bases remain tender and green. Heading cuts shorten a limb or shoot. This removes the terminal bud that normally stops shoot development from buds closer to the trunk. This also causes several shoots to develop near the cut, which results in a thicker, denser canopy and reduced light levels. A thinning cut removes an entire shoot or branch back to its point of origin. Thinning cuts do not induce excessive vigorous regrowth and will open the tree to allow more sun inside the interior. Harvest and Storage Pears should be harvested while they are still firm and green. Some pears rot from the inside out, if they ripen on the tree. For best results, find out the approximate maturity time for the cultivar, watch for a slight color change from a darker to a lighter shade of green, and check fruit size. Store mature pears in the refrigerator, then ripen at room temperature for up to a week before eating or canning. Pears bruise easily, so, handle carefully when picking and storing! https://extension.unh.edu/resource/growing-fruits-growing-pears-home-orchard-fact-sheet Happy growing and check out the many wonderful pear recipes found on the internet! Photo Credit: Marjory Blare

< Back Paper Poinsettias Here is a fun seasonal project for your Growing Sprout. Read on to find out how to make them and where poinsettias grow. It might surprise you! Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardeners Poinsettias are native to Mexico and Central America. The part we think of as the flower are actually a special leaf called a bract; the real flower is in the middle with the yellow part. The ASPCA lists it as poisonous to cats, but of course, ours won’t be! For the project you will need: 2 sheets of red paper 1 sheet of a darker or lighter red color 1 sheet of green paper A bit of yellow paper Scissors Glue Light weight cardboard such as a cereal box Pen Glitter (optional) First you will need to cut out two paper templates, one smaller than the other, and then cut out the cardboard templates. If your sprout is older, you can make the bracts fancier. Once you have the templates, your Sprout can trace them on the paper. They will need 8 red, and three green shapes of the larger bracts, and 8 shapes of the smaller contrasting color. Glue four of the larger bracts together, then layer four more at right angles to the first. Fold the smaller bracts in half lengthwise, don’t make the crease sharp. Older Sprouts can also fold the larger bracts. It’s a little harder to glue when you do this. They can experiment with having the folds be upside down relative to the smaller bracts. Glue in the same manner as the larger bracts. Add a little extra glue to hold the smaller bracts to the larger. Glue the three green bracts behind the large bracts, cut out and glue 3 small circles of the yellow paper to the center of the poinsettia and you’re done! Happy Holidays! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-11)

< Back American Holly (Ilex opaca): Deck the Halls! Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener American holly is a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes. But this tree is also a great year-round addition to the landscape. Read this article to learn why. It may be August but I’m getting stoked up for the Holidays, thinking about American holly ( Ilex opaca ), a tree that breathes festivity! In winter’s white silence, American holly radiates merriment showing red berries on olive green leaves. Boughs often find their way into Christmas wreathes although this tree is a great year-round addition to the landscape. American holly grows to a height of 15 to 30 feet. Native to the Eastern Coast and nearer Midwest, northern cultivars have spread across Iowa and up into Southern to Central Minnesota. When purchasing American Holly, do be careful to select a cultivar that has proven its hardiness in the Midwest. If you have any questions about that, you might consult the website of the Dawes Arboretum in Columbus, Ohio. They have an excellent collection of over 200 cultivars adapted to the Midwest. Mature American holly When selecting your specimen, you must be mindful that American Holly is dioecious. In other words, there are boy trees and girl trees. So, a male tree must be in the neighborhood for female trees to produce fruit. There are a number of hybrids available commercially. They do grow more rapidly than the native variety. However, they are far less hardy. A severe Minnesota winter can reduce their leaves to a dingy brown, not so festive for Christmas. If you are patient, the native cultivars will slowly grow and demonstrate remarkable hardiness. A few points for siting should be kept in mind. American holly is hardy only to Zone 5. So, in Minnesota it is best to select a protected site from the winter winds. Also, it requires full sun to part shade to thrive. Our hot summers can also affect the tree, so it’s best to site is where it enjoys the afternoon shade. Well-drained soil is a must. It does best in a neutral to acid soil, so amendments should be made if your soil is alkaline. fruit of the female tree If care is taken and patience exercised, American holly will provide great rewards. This stately and colorful tree will bring joy and lift the spirits for many a Holiday Season. Photo Credit: Missouri Botanical Garden (1,2)

< Back Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans): A High Note on Any Trellis Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you looking for a beautiful, native vine for a sunny fence or pergola in your yard? Consider the glorious Trumpet Vine. This article reveals the many reasons why Trumpet Vine may be a delightful and pollinator-friendly addition to your garden. A garden fence, an isolated trellis, these are structures crying out for a luxurious vine to twine upon. One elegant choice is the Trumpet Vine. It initially grew in the southern Midwest but has adapted and naturalized northward to southern and central Minnesota, where, in the right conditions, can do very well indeed. It generally is hardy to -25 0 F. So, if you are planting Up North, a little winter mulching is a good idea. In the lower Midwest its growth can be vigorous. It climbs by rootlets that form along its stems and trunk. Trumpet vine can root at any spot its stems touch the ground. It also spreads by underground rhizomes. Here in the colder north, this proclivity usually is lessened unless in an exceptionally favorable site. Yet be aware of its rambunctious nature. summer trumpet vine blooms When planting trumpet vine, full sun is a necessity for flowering. Usually, 8 to 10 hours of sun is necessary to coax blooming. We have some planted to the north of the house and it gets at most 5 to 6 hours of direct sun. Growth has been less than impressive. Soil usually is not a major consideration, although ironically, if the soil is too rich it may not bloom. Instead, the plant converts nitrogen into leaves, not flowers. When fertilizing, use low or no nitrogen, emphasizing phosphorous to encourage blooming. Consider bone meal as a great source of slow-release phosphorus. Another reason for not blooming is immaturity. Trumpet vine takes several years to flower, especially if grown from seed. So, be patient. Speaking of patience, recall the old adage, applicable to so many perennials, that they “sleep, creep and leap”. You can count on this with trumpet vine. So be cautious when siting the vine. It can be spectacular growing up a tree, post or fence but it is vigorous. Planting it next to the house can lead to disaster as it can ruin siding and invade the foundation. foliage can be quite luxurious Trumpet vine flowers are spectacular orange to yellow to occasionally red. The blooming season can extend through most of the summer. They are visited and pollinated by hummingbirds in the day and sphinx moths in the night. As you might imagine, with such a vigorous grower, the foliage is lush. So, if you are looking for a sunny summer focal point in your garden landscape, trumpet vine would be an excellent choice. Photo Credit: iNaturalist, Gary W. House (1), Publicdomainpictures.net (2)

< Back Winter Wild Bird Care – How to help our feathered friends survive in the frozen north BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener On September 22, the path of our Sun crossed the equator, headed south. We all know what’s coming to Minnesota: longer nights and lower temperatures. Our beautiful gardens are dying back, leaves are changing to stunning colors before dropping and blowing away, and many of our warm weather birds are departing for warmer climes. But some birds say in Minnesota year-round and other birds fly south to our state from the Arctic. We all enjoy watching beautiful, colorful birds in the winter. Here are some ideas for helping our winter resident birds make it through a Minnesota winter. While hummingbirds and orioles will be following the sun to the south, many birds will be heading south from the Arctic, to winter here. Others have adapted to staying year-round. As the temperatures drop, so do the food sources many birds rely on. While seeds may be available, protein in the form of insects is not. Providing those important foods and water, not only helps maintain a healthier bird population, but brings the joy of watching birds at our feeders; the bright red flash of the Cardinal, the raucous call of the Blue Jay, the gregarious flitting of chickadees. What a lovely way to brighten our bleak mid-winters. Here are some ideas for helping our winter resident birds make it through a Minnesota winter. Common Winter Residents We can surely be grateful that so many species have adapted to winters in Minnesota. Downy, Hairy, and Pileated Woodpeckers remain, as do Cardinals, Finches, Blue Jays, Nuthatches, Robins, and Chickadees. All of these birds will frequent backyard feeders as a source of a meal. Additionally, those harbingers of winter weather, the Dark-eyed Junco will feed on some seeds scattered on the snow. Bird Feeders-One type does not fit all Imagine sitting at your dinner table. Your chair is turned 90 degrees to the right and you must twist your upper body to face your plate. This is why some birds, usually smaller, are able to easily eat from a feeder that has short posts as perches while Cardinals and Jays find “fly-through” and “hopper” feeders, ones where they can perch facing the food easier to use. Cylinder feeders that have a tray to catch seeds that fall can be used by all of these birds. Unless you enjoy feeding squirrels, the feeders should be pole mounted at least 5 feet off the ground and 8 feet from a tree. A baffle on the pole will prevent squirrels and raccoons from climbing the pole and eating the food you specifically purchased for the birds. There are squirrel-proof feeders available as well. Keeping your bird seed dry and the feeders clean is imperative. Bird seed that gets damp could freeze, making it difficult for birds to eat. Furthermore, damp seed is prone to turning moldy and could make your birds sick. Bird feeders that are not cleaned regularly may harbor disease like mycoplasmal conjunctivitis which may lead to blindness and death. Domes for the feeders can help keep the seed dry and cleaning feeders at least monthly will reduce the likelihood of spreading disease. Glass, metal and plastic feeders should be cleaned with a diluted bleach solution (1:10) then thoroughly rinsed and dried. Wooden feeders can be cleaned with a weak vinegar and water solution Goldfinch with mycoplasmal conjunctivitis Bird Food – lots of fat and carbs, please It is quite easy to plan for winter bird feeding. The three main choices of food are large seeds, small seeds, and suet. Large seeds include black-oil sunflower, striped sunflower, safflower, peanuts, shelled corn, ear corn and cardinal mixes that contain sunflower, safflower and peanuts. About 80 to 90 percent of seed used in Minnesota is comprised of black-oil sunflower seeds and cardinal mixes. These have the greatest appeal to the broadest variety of winter birds and contain a high energy content. Small seeds like cracked corn or milo (sorghum) attract house sparrows and so it is best to avoid them. Nyger seed, a heat-treated thistle, is an excellent all-winter staple for American goldfinches, common and hoary redpolls, house and purple finches, and pine siskins. Furthermore, Dark-eyed Juncos will eat Nyjer scattered on the snow while squirrels will not! Suet provides high energy nutritional benefits. Pileated woodpeckers seem to prefer their suet on solid platforms instead of suspended feeders. Chickadees, woodpeckers, and nuthatches all benefit from a suet feeder. Water – it’s not easy to get A Black-Capped Chickadee weighs less than ½ ounce. It’s not hard to imagine the amount of energy it would expend to melt snow if that were its only source of water. Water is a critical ingredient of a winter-feeding program. The water needs a heating element and a thermostat. Several excellent birdbaths with heating elements and thermostats are available from bird-feeding supply stores. Five Best Winter Bird-Feeding Practices Select the best seed for the season. High fat and energy foods are important to get birds through the winter's cold nights. Water for drinking should be available. Remember snow requires energy to melt and energy is in short supply. Have multiple foods at multiple feeders. Suet, cylinder, hopper, and fly-through feeders can hold different foods and will attract different birds. Provide protection from predators. Having your feeders near bushes or a tree-line will give backyard birds a place to duck and cover should a hawk or cat come by. Maintain good feeder site hygiene. Clean and disinfect your feeders monthly to prevent diseases from spreading. Helping birds through the harsh Minnesota winters is both rewarding and enjoyable. It is a winter “win-win” for both the birds and us. Photo Credit: flickr.com (1), Douglas Hansell (2,3)