< Back Spring in September Plan Now to Start 2025 Blooming in Color Spring begins this month! I know, it’s September, but on a gardener’s calendar, this is the month to begin planning for an awakening of eagerly blooming sprouts and a palette of spring colors. Whether you are a “bulb-beginner” like me or a bulb enthusiast looking to expand on some gardening ideas, continue reading as we discuss the what, where, when, how, and why of spring blooming bulbs with a few design tips planted along the way. Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern September marks the beginning of fall and so it’s time to start planting. What? Spring bulbs, of course. Sure, you may be a bit weary of gardening this time of year but before you put your gardening tools away, take out that trowel one last time and plant some spring bulbs. Why plant spring blooming bulbs? After a long Minnesota winter, the flowers of spring bulbs provide a great wealth of color in a variety of flower and leaf designs - an unabashed welcome to spring against the monochromatic color of the final days of winter. When? There are different kinds of bulbs. Spring blooming bulbs are planted in the fall of the previous year. Summer blooming bulbs are planted in the spring of the same year. This article will only focus on spring blooming bulbs, also known as hardy bulbs. Examples of hardy bulbs are tulips, daffodils, iris, crocus and lilies. The local garden centers will have a selection of spring blooming bulbs beginning this month. Now through October is the ideal time when you should plant these bulbs (although they can be planted until the first frost). Make sure the bulbs are clean and solid, without mold, rot, cuts and bruising. When healthy bulbs are properly planted and cared for, spring blooming bulbs will give you years of enjoyment. Tulip, daffodil, crocus bulbs Before you plant your spring bulbs, consider where to plant them in your garden. Begin by taking pictures of your flower gardens throughout the seasons and take note of the sun and shade exposure throughout the days. This will help you determine what to plant and where to plant your bulbs as your existing plants progress through their own unique life cycles. Pictures will also aid in determining what plants to thin out and what plants to transplant along with spacing when the time is right. My annual red petunias had a happy southwest-facing summer taking a front row seat to my colorful perennials but will soon relinquish their small plot of soil. My bountiful hydrangea and Black Eyed Susans, swaying feather reed grass, and my prickly Japanese barberry will then become a beautiful backdrop to groupings of snowdrops and allium . Both will be the ideal height ranging from three to eight inches. (Note that there are different sizes of allium ranging from short to quite tall, so look closely before you buy.) Snowdrops will bloom as early as March and allium will follow in May giving time for their surrounding neighbors to grow into full fruition, blooming in all their glory from June through fall. It is always important to read the packaging to know how to plant the bulbs. Planting depths may range from three inches to twelve inches. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, “[g]enerally, plant bulbs two to three times deeper than their diameter. This will vary with the type of soil.” If you want to do advance soil preparation, do a soil sample test of the area you will plant your bulbs. Keep in mind that the turnaround for results may take up to three weeks, so plan accordingly. This will give you time to shop for bulbs. After you have evenly spread the final layer of soil, watered thoroughly, laid chicken wire to ward off hungry squirrels and other wildlife, spread a layer of mulch, and labeled your plantings, take one final picture. Document your work so you can relish in the before and after pictures come next spring. During the stillness of the upcoming holiday months, you will be free to consider your color theme for annual hanging baskets or planters for the upcoming year ahead. You can also explore the possibility of summer blooming bulbs as you await with anticipation your spring bulbs in blooming color. REFERENCES: https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/annualsbulbs/bulbs-101 https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-bulbs-tubers-and-rhizomes https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTXODhmkJS0 Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,4,5), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back October - “Fall”ing for Compost Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Composting - an important word and process we want to teach our children, but how do we do this in a fun and educational way? Composting is a natural way of recycling so let’s invite the children in our life to not only continue recycling the paper, cans and acceptable plastic items, but also begin learning about and “recycling” the natural items we see all around into a rich compost we can use to make our plants grow. What an incredible way to teach children to care for our environment! Let’s get started on creating a child’s very own compost container, which then can be turned into a bigger composting container in the future. Supplies Needed : Large Plastic Water/Pop Bottle or Comparable Container Utility Knife, Push Pin/Tack or Small Nail Small Dish or Tray to set Bottle into Greens (ex. vegetable and/or fruit food scraps, non-fertilized grass clippings) Browns (ex. sticks, leaves, sawdust, pine needles, clean cardboard) Spray Bottle with Water Long dowel, long handled Spoon or Narrow Trowel Sunny spot - on shelf, counter, windowsill Patience Composting is a natural way of helping the environment using our home and garden waste to create compost that can be used in our gardens and plantings. By placing waste items together (greens & browns) and allowing them to break down or decompose we help to cut down on the food and yard waste scraps we throw away on a day-to-day basis. Composting also provides wonderful benefits as a gardener as a way of natural recycling…turning items we typically would throw away and turning them into usable soil for our future plants. Starting small and educating our “Little Sprouts” about the importance of the how-to’s of composting and letting them create their own compost container benefits us all. If using a large plastic water/pop container, please have an adult cut the top of the bottle off just as it begins to round downward. Next, if age appropriate, allow your “Little Sprout” to use the pin/tack to push through the bottom of the bottle/container to make a few small holes. If the plastic is too thick or the child is too small, please have the adult place holes in the bottom of the container. A small dish or tray will catch any moisture that escapes from the bottom. What about the browns and greens? Composting is like cooking with a recipe. Just like when baking cookies, various ingredients are needed and the same is true with creating a successful compost. To create a successful compost both greens and browns are needed in addition to water and the natural process of decomposition. “Greens” are simply the moist ingredient that provides nitrogen and moisture that helps things grow. Greens include fruit and vegetable scraps, fresh grass clippings, coffee and tea grounds and eggshells. Yes - “Greens” don’t necessarily need to be green. “Browns” are the items we add to the compost that provide air pockets in the pile, increase bulk and are full of carbon. The brown items include dry leaves, cardboard and plain paper (no shiny paper, tape or printing on cardboard), non-died wood chips, twigs, sticks, sawdust and pine needles. Again, all materials don’t necessarily need to be brown, but for the most part browns are brown. What not to use in my home compost: dairy, fish, meat and fats should be avoided. Next is the real fun…layering the browns and greens (In a larger compost bin the ratio of browns to greens is 2-1, but in our small compost bin just try your best.). The container used does not have to be filled to the top in that composting is about adding layers as you go and as you produce green and brown compostable items. In the container place brown materials first. Spray the layer lightly with water and then proceed with a green layer followed by another brown layer. Spray a light mist and place another green layer followed by brown. Repeat until you have filled your compost bin to the top or have decided to stop. Don’t forget to mist the brown layer each time. Once you have reached the level of compost in the container, place it in a sunny location. As the elements added decompose with the help of good bacteria and fungi, you will begin to see the actual breakdown of the elements involved. But your “Little Sprouts” job is not done. The compost needs to be turned so take a small dowel, trowel or spoon and turn the compost. Turning the compost can take place every 2-3 days. The slow process of decomposing takes time so be patient. It can take months for the greens and browns to turn into the perfect compost, but it is worth the wait. When the product being created is a dark color, falls apart and smells like soil, then your compost is ready. Remember, greens and browns can continually be added to the container so keep it up. Overtime, wonderful compost will be created and can be used in your garden or around your flowers. Happy Fall Composting! Photo credit: pexels.com (1,2,3)

< Back Don’t Let the Snow (or Lack of) Determine Next Year’s Blooms Patricia Johnson, Dakota County Master Garden Intern It’s October and soon the winter snow will be here, or will it be? We all remember the “lost winter of 2023-2024” when Minnesota received record warmth and lack of snow. Just as a super cold winter can damage your plants, so can a super warm, snowless winter. This article explains why these extreme temperature variations can harm your plants and what you can do to protect them. October is the time to prepare your plants for the winter! In the article *Winterizing Plants: Cold Damage, Julie Weisenhorn, U of MN Extension horticulture educator says, “ Lack of snow cover and dry, droughty conditions negatively influence winter soil temperatures and cause root injury.” In Minnesota, the earth rotates on its axis at about 700 mph. The ground beneath our feet, known as the earth’s lithosphere, is in constant motion also. Yet we don’t “feel the earth move under our feet”, unless an earthquake occurs or you’re Carole King. Instead, we see the effects of this movement. We see it in the passage of a 24-hour day, in the cracks of an asphalt driveway, or the heaving of landscape edging over an extended period of time. We also see the effects it has on our perennials as this heaving occurs. Heaving is the upward movement of soil due to wide temperature fluctuations coupled with the expansion and contraction of moisture (water) within the soil. The tiny root hairs of a plant are microscopic and invisible to the human eye. They are responsible for absorbing water and nutrients for the plant. The freezing and thawing process of heaving, negatively affects these tiny hair roots, resulting in damage or even death to a plant. And at times, if the plant was not properly planted, heaving can push the plant up from the ground exposing its roots to other damaging environmental conditions, such as insects, diseases, and animals. To minimize heat loss in the soil surrounding the plant, and the potential for heaving, winterize your plants with shredded wood mulch. Shredded leaves also provide a good source of organic mulch, as well as pine needles. Four to six inches of mulch will help the soil temperature remain consistent and help prevent heaving. Other helpful considerations for Minnesota gardeners include: Select plants according to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone map. Watch “Right Plant Right Place” video series on the U of MN Extension You Tube channel to learn how to give your plants the best start possible. Continue to water your plants until the ground freezes. Water serves as an insulator; well-watered soil retains heat. And as your plants come to life in the spring, they’ll get their first drink of water as the ground thaws. And if possible, mulch after the top one to two inches of the ground has frozen. The mulch helps retain moisture from watering. In summary, to prevent potential root injury, Weisenhorn says, “Snow cover and mulch are good insulators and help keep soil temperatures warmer . . . Soil moisture is important to root and plant health.” So, the big question on many people’s minds is, “Will we get snow this winter or see a repeat performance of the Lost Winter of 2023-2024?” “Hard to say what exactly will happen for the winter of 2024 -‘25, but it would be difficult to have a repeat of the record warmth and the nearly snowless winter of 2023-’24,” says Assistant State Climatologist Pete Boulay, MN DNR. “The Winter Outlook (December-February) from the Climate Prediction Center depicts a slight tendency for below normal temperatures over Northwest Minnesota with equal chances of below normal and above normal temperatures across the rest of the state. There is a slight tilt for above normal precipitation across the eastern half of the state. La Niña is expected to be present this winter. For me, I prepare for the worst and hope for the best!” We can’t control the weather, but we can in part, minimize the effects it has on our plants with proper planning and preparation. Whether it snows or not this coming winter, let’s plant and maintain properly, water sufficiently and mulch so your plants will have a blooming tomorrow. Make sure your plants will be the “Happy Perennials of spring 2025.” To read more on The Lost Winter of 2023-’24, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/journal/lost-winter-2023-24.html . To learn more about the intricacies of a plant root system, log on to https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ . For fun facts about Minnesota weather, log on to https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/climate/summaries_and_publications/normalsportal.html . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkaBGry87JE&list=PLyMOSdo2sM9sqq7P8DR8qKV8f_bkPXAgG&index=1 * https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/winterizing-plants-cold-damage Photo Credit: https://open.lib.umn.edu/horticulture/chapter/3-3-roots/ (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Patricia Johnson (3)

< Back Things to Check Out This Spring: What are Buds, Leaves and Blossoms? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Keep an eye out for BUDS, LEAVES, and BLOSSOMS growing on the trees around you. Read on to learn more about these fun signs of spring and some tree education ideas for children of all ages! Your nose may tell you there are blossoms nearby and your ears may hear the buzzing of happy bees enjoying their nectar and pollen. How does the rounded or pointed shape of a bud compare to the flat shape of many leaves? How many different colors and shapes of blossoms can you find on a walk around your neighborhood, or a visit to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum? pussy willow (salix discolor) In spring, trees start to wake up from their winter naps, called dormancy . The days are longer. The sunlight is stronger. The temperatures warm, allowing water to be pulled from the soil into the roots and then move within the tree. The sap starts flowing, full of energy. In a maple tree, we can even use the sap to make syrup for your pancakes. Yum! Sap helps feed the trees too. As the sap carries nutrients throughout the tree, BUDS swell at the end of tree branches - they are gathering energy and getting ready for the new season. Those buds are the beginning of a new leaf or blossom! diagram of a twig with lateral (side) buds and terminal (end) bud A LEAF grows from some buds - this is a flattened structure that has some big jobs: Transpiration: helping the tree to release water vapor and oxygen into the air and take in carbon dioxide. Photosynthesis: taking the sun’s energy and making it into fuel for the tree Shade and shelter: from sun, wind and rain Food: what kind of creatures eat leaves? Some big mammals and small insects like to munch on those tasty treats. 4 leaf Pay attention to the shape and structure of leaves - you can identify the tree by the kind of leaf it grows! Some buds turn into flower BLOSSOMS : their job is to attract pollinators with bright colors and sweet scents! If the pollinators (like bees) can bring pollen from one plant to another, some blossoms will grow into fruit like an apple! apple trees in blossom The University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources has a fun way to identify, different features in tree species. Find more tree identification cards here . card of Black Cherry Tree Ready to read more? Check out some books from the Dakota County libraries about BUDS, LEAVES, BLOSSOMS and more on trees! Here are a few suggestions: National Geographic Kids, Ultimate Explorer Field Guide: Tree by Patricia Daniels The Things That I Love About Trees by Chris Butterworth & illustrated by Charlotte Voake Can You Hear the Trees Talking, Discovering the Hidden Life of the Forest by Peter Wohllenben Nature All Around Trees by Pamela Hickman and Carolyn Gavin Keep an eye on this shrub if you happen to be by the Wescott Library steps - I found some branches with buds just beginning to swell with snow still on the ground this spring! Find some additional resources for tree activities from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources here . But most importantly, get out there with the child in your life and enjoy the spring BUDS, LEAVES, AND BLOSSOMS! Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1,2), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources (3), University of Minnesota Department of Forest Resources (4,6), Sarah Heidtke (5,7,8)

< Back Eradicating Invasive Honeysuckle in the Minnesota Landscape Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Minnesota has several species of native honeysuckle but beware - there is a chance the honeysuckle you have at home may be one of the four non-native species of bush honeysuckle that are invasive in a Minnesota landscape! This article tells you how to tell the difference and what to do about these invasive plants. Minnesota has several species of native honeysuckle but beware - there is a chance the honeysuckle you have at home may be one of the four non-native species of bush honeysuckle that are invasive in a Minnesota landscape! Here’s how to tell the difference and what to do about this invasive plant. Photo by Amanda Drews invasive honeysuckle thicket The invasive honeysuckle species taking over Minnesota woodlands crowds out native plants in much the same way as buckthorn. The plants send out chemical signals to inhibit the growth of nearby plants, have an early leaf out in the spring that shades the plants that do start to grow, and produce berries that have little nutritional value to birds. Areas with large amounts of honeysuckle make attractive bedding sites for deer and consequently, the deer ticks that cause Lyme disease come right along with them! The invasive species to watch for include the Amur ( L. maackii ), Tartarian (Lonicera tatarica ), Morrow’s ( L. morrowii ), and Bell’s ( L. x bella ) honeysuckles . If you are looking to eradicate invasive honeysuckles in your landscape, your first step would be to identify it. You don’t necessarily need to know which specific species it is. A good rule of thumb to rule out any of the invasives over our native honeysuckles is to look at the stems. If a plant over 2 years old has a hollow brown pith (core) it’s one of the four invasive species. So, get snapping and check your honeysuckles! Photo by Amanda Drews hollow stem of invasive honeysuckle In the spring when the ground is moist and right after leaf formation, you can try manually pulling or digging honeysuckles out. Just be sure you get the entire root crown removed. If you need to, you can spray the leaves with glyphosate but you must do it before other surrounding plants leaf out. Just as with buckthorn, the fall is the most effective time to treat with herbicides since plants will be pulling nutrients down into their roots. After cutting the stumps down to the ground, immediately spot treat the top with glyphosate or triclopyr as directed on the product label. Another effective treatment is using basal bark spray with triclopyr ester . If you are able to do prescribed burning, that will kill the top of the shrubs and seedlings but you will likely have to do repeat burns. Photo by Amanda Drews flowers of invasive honeysuckle To prevent the honeysuckle from returning, replant the area as soon as possible. winterberry, pagoda and gray dogwoods, common elderberry and black chokecherry are good substitutes for filling your spaces back in. Photo by Amanda Drews berries of invasive honeysuckle If you plan to replace your invasive honeysuckles with natives or just want to add some to your yard, there are two types of honeysuckles recommended by the University of Minnesota Extension to plant in Minnesota. The Southern bush honeysuckle ( D. sessilifolia ) which is a zone 4 plant and our native Northern bush honeysuckle ( Diervilla lonicera ) that is hardy to zone 3. These honeysuckles have several attractive features. Both tend to be adaptable to varying light levels as well as soil types, are good for erosion control and neither has serious pest problems. So, feel free to plant honeysuckles in your yard just be cautious about the type you are introducing into your garden. Photo by Amanda Drews Honeysuckle thicket before blooming Resources: https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/bush-honeysuckle https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/invasives/terrestrialplants/woody/bush-honeysuckles.html https://extension.umn.edu/my-minnesota-woods-news/scouting-invasives-species-fall https://mipncontroldatabase.wisc.edu/search?name=Morrow%27s_honeysuckle&habitat=7&season=8 https://news.wisc.edu/invasive-shrubs-increase-spread-of-tick-borne-disease/ Photo Credits: Amanda Drews (1-5)

< Back Roasted Stuffed Butternut Squash Marjorie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a special vegetable dish for the holidays? Or, how about a vegetable-main dish combination perfect for cold winter nights? What vegetable could fit the bill better than butternut squash? This recipe will make your mouth water and your tummy full. Ingredients Topping : 1/4 cup crumbled Feta Fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano as a garnish Honey (optional) Filling: 1lb. (uncooked) of your favorite sausage Squash: 1 large Butternut Squash, halved and seeded 2 TBSP Olive oil Salt and pepper to taste or, Garlic salt and smoked paprika. Directions Preheat oven or grill to 400° Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush olive oil on squash halves. Make several cuts in the neck and cube the neck, putting the cubes in the seed cavity. Season to taste with salt and pepper or garlic salt and smoked paprika. 4. Stuff with the sausage. If using the grill, place on an aluminum baking sheet, or whatever you might ordinarily use. Cook cut side up for 40-45 minutes or until done. Top with feta cheese. Drizzle with honey, if desired. Run under broiler for a bit, if you want more color. Garnish with fresh marjoram, parsley or oregano. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Marjorie Blare (1-5)

< Back Houseplant Pests Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Discovering and controlling pests on your indoor plants is an important step for keeping your indoor garden healthy and happy. The information in this article will help you keep these unwanted visitors off your plants and out of your home. Last month we talked about keeping your houseplants healthy, paying attention to growing requirements, fertilization, watering, hygiene and potting soil. Minding all these factors will reduce the chance of sickly plants and pest attacks. Yet, alas, in even the best of environments, insect problems sometimes rear their ugly heads. So, what to do if you suspect you have some unwelcome residents on your houseplants? As we said, inspect them for insect pests when you water, clean or fertilize. They most often congregate on the underside of leaves. You should look for insects, holes, webbing or eggs. Give an even closer inspection to any plants brought in from the store or the outside. Using a magnifying glass helps. It also impresses any bystanders. You want to look for “honeydew” which is a shiny sticky substance produced by aphids, mealybugs and scale insects. Also check plant containers for pests along the ridges and bottom of pots and saucers. It’s not a bad idea to put a new plant in quarantine, away from the rest of your collection, for a week or two. More often than not a pest problem will declare itself during this period. Honeydew on houseplant leaves. When you water the plants keep a sharp lookout for bugs like springtails and fungus gnats. They usually move with the water. If you think you might have flying insects like thrips, winged aphids, fungus gnats or whiteflies, setting up a sticky paper trap like the one illustrated can help in detection. A yellow sticky card can trap flies. If you find an infestation early on, more often than not you can manage it without pesticides. That’s good for you and for the environment. Washing the plant will remove small infestations. Use a paper towel to wipe leaves, changing the paper frequently to prevent spread. You can wash small plants in the sink and larger ones in the shower. Be one with your Ficus! You can physically remove many pests. Larger insects such as millipedes, slugs, caterpillars or earwigs can be picked off the plants. Mealybugs can be removed with a forceps (tweezers) or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Those hard little grey scales can be taken off the plant with a fingernail file. Pruning is another option if the critters are isolated on a few leaves, stems or branches. Be aggressive. Most plants will recover remarkably well if relieved of their insect burden and given the right growing environment. If all else fails and the plant looks like a goner, don’t hesitate to toss it. This avoids exposing other plants to the same pest problem, which will save you grief in the long run. Rather than composting the diseased plant, I prefer to wrap it in a Ziplock bag and put it in the trash. To obtain more information about specific pests as well as what to do if non-chemical methods fail to control your problem, check out Prof. Jeffery Hahn’s recommendations on the University of Minnesota Extension website: https://extension.umn.edu/product-and-houseplant-pests/insects-indoor-plants#using-pesticides-for-pest-management-1580961 Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2)

< Back Dormant Seeding, Preparing Your Lawn for Next Year Vida Dam, Dakota County Master Gardener Plant grass seed in your lawn now? We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. Dormant seeding has many benefits, as discussed in this article, but certain methods must be used in order to achieve success. Read on to discover how to dormant seed your lawn. We may think it is winter already and the growing season is done, but November is the best time for dormant seeding! This is a late-fall technique that involves sowing grass seed after the growing season has ended and before the ground is permanently frozen. The benefits of the cold will prevent the seed from germinating this year, leverage our Minnesota's natural freeze-thaw cycle of winters to work the seed into the soil, and allow the new grass seed to germinate very early in the spring when it is still wet and cold. Dormant seeding gives the lawn a head start next year before the summer heat and annual weeds emerge. Is this good for every lawn? This is great for sparse lawns, bare patches, and thin lawns that need to be thickened. It is not as effective if the lawn is already thick and dense as the seed needs good seed-to-soil contact. When to Dormant Seed the lawn? Timing is very important as grass seeds should not germinate this fall. If the seed germinate/sprout this fall, the immature seedlings may not survive the winter. The target is to apply the dormant seeds before the first major snowfall between mid/late October to mid-November when the temperature is too cold for germination. The seed must be put down while the ground is not frozen but is cold. Day time temperature should be around 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit, and soil temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. ** Tip : if the lawn is actively growing and being mowed, it is too early for dormant seeding. How to Dormant Seed - the steps: Select the desired grass seed: For Minnesota lawns look up options based on site conditions and maintenance on the UMN extension. (see additional resources below) An average Minnesota lawn may have a mix of Kentucky bluegrass, fine fescue, and small amounts of perennial ryegrass. Prepare the lawn: Mow the existing lawn slightly lower than normal to approximately 2 inches in order to allow the seed to reach the soil. Loosen the soil surface so the seed can have easier seed to soil contact. Using a hand rake for small areas of bare or thin lawn is an option. For larger areas, a vertical mower, dethatcher, or scarifier is an option. Rake up any debris Spread the seed & ensure contact: Use the recommended rate for the grass seed and lightly incorporate it into the existing soil with a hand rake. Water lightly & thoroughly Water the area lightly and thoroughly after laying the seed. Do not water too much, the soil should be barely damp - between dry and damp. Only in extreme drought, is additional watering needed. Continuous watering is not needed until the seed germinate in the spring. What to expect in the Spring: The results of dormant seeding depend on Minnesota winter conditions. With more snowfall that can cover and protect the areas, the higher chance of success. Seedlings will germinate by late April and early May as the temperature warms. Be patient as it takes 10-14 plus days for grass to sprout. If the area is a little thin, give it some time and it is not unusual to have additional reseeding in the spring. Avoid heavy traffic on the young seedlings and consider fertilization to assist with lawn establishment Warning: Do not apply a pre-emergent weed preventer in the spring as it will prevent grass seed from germinating. Happy dormant seeding! For more information, please see links and resources below: Learn More here: Dormant Seeding: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/dormant-seeding Dormant Seeding Bee Lawns: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dormant-seeding-bee-lawns#:~:text=Dormant%20seeding%20provides%20the%20best,soil%20moisture%20for%20germinating%20seeds Turfgrass Seed for Minnesota Lawn: https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/buying-turfgrass-seed-minnesota-lawns Gall Dormant Seed: https://www.gertens.com/learn/fall-dormant-seeding#:~:text=Photo%20by%20the%20University%20of,your%20new%20seed%20will%20sprout . Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3)

< Back The Three Sisters Planting Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener As spring approaches, we begin to look for ways to not only welcome the “Little Sprouts” into our garden plan, but also create an education opportunity as well. Let’s explore how to best incorporate into our gardens more sustainable gardening practices no matter what the size through using the Three Sisters planting or “Milpa”. The Three Sisters planting creates a way that three crops - corn, beans and squash compliment and work together to create a beautiful sustainable harvest. As spring approaches, we begin to look for ways to not only welcome the “Little Sprouts” into our garden plan, but also create an education opportunity as well. Let’s explore how to best incorporate into our gardens more sustainable gardening practices no matter what the size through using the Three Sisters planting or “Milpa.” The Three Sisters planting creates a way that three crops - corn, beans and squash compliment and work together to create a beautiful harvest. The Three Sisters planting was first practiced by Indigenous peoples who learned that three crops - corn, beans and squash, planted together, help the other grows stronger and healthier. Each crop is an asset to the others and in the end provides what is needed to grow a healthy and sustainable garden. Photo of Three Sisters plant Corn, beans and squash are each planted separately at various times and provide the following benefit for the betterment of the whole. The corn stalk provides the stability or strength for the other crops to grow upon and is planted first. The strong and tall cornstalk can be seen as a support for the beans to grow upon. Beans are planted second in the rotation. The beans, when growing, provide the needed natural nitrogen to help all of the plants grow healthy. And they provide a crop high in protein when eaten. Finally, squash is planted last; but squash is important in that it provides a canopy on the ground as it grows to prevent weeds from growing. It also keeps the ground underneath cooler from the hot sun which prevents the ground from drying out so quickly. The Three Sisters planting is seen as sustainable in that it does not need a lot of space to produce a bountiful harvest and outside items are not needed or can be reduced, such as a structure, fertilizer, watering and weeding. How to Plant : Find a suitable site that receives full sun for 6-8 hours. Once a site has been located, mound soil 4-5 inches high. Within this mound, plant 4 corn seeds approximately 6 inches apart. Since we want the pole beans to grow up the corn stalk, please plant beans seeds when the corn stalk is 4-6 inches tall. The pole bean seeds (bush beans will not work - pole beans or a climbing variety are needed) can be sown at the bottom of the mound about 3-4 inches from the corn. Once the bean seeds have begun to grow, place two squash seeds approximately 24 inches from the center of the mound where the corn was planted. It is recommended that waiting about a week after the beans have emerged will ensure that the beans become established and begin to climb the corn stalk before the squash gets too big and shades off the beans. Squash should also be encouraged to trail out and not overcrowd the beans. Over the summer watch the three crops provide what is needed to the other two as a sustainable harvest is created. Enjoy sharing even more with your Little Sprouts from planting to harvest through using the Three Sisters planting method. Items Needed : Corn (tall variety) Seeds corn seeds Pole Bean Seeds pole bean seeds Squash Seeds (preferably winter squash) squash seeds Trowel Watering Can (Water) diagram of Three Sisters plant Planting a Three Sisters grouping with your little “growing sprouts” is easy and they will delight in watching and caring for the three plants as they grow. What a fun way to learn how plants can help each other thrive in nature. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1), www.pexels.com (2,3,4), www.wikimedia.com mons (5)

< Back Bright, Fresh and Easy Spring Salad Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener There is nothing like a fresh salad made from ingredients grown in your own yard. If you were as ambitious as our author, Master Gardener Joy Johnson, and started your own lettuces earlier this year, you could enjoy this spring salad with your home-grown lettuce. Not to worry though, this salad can be enjoyed with grocery-bought, or perhaps, farmers markets ingredients also. This salad says – welcome spring! Spring is in full bloom and since I was anxious to get my garden started back in March, I have a bounty of young spring greens and lettuces, along with herbs to enjoy fresh from the garden. There is nothing like a fresh salad made from your own yard. I hope you enjoy a bowl full of this while sitting and watching your garden grow. A fellow master gardener in Dakota County has an orange tree that grows in a large pot (also a lemon and a lime tree). She diligently drags them outside to her patio each spring and hauls them into her attached greenhouse area off the kitchen each fall. She’s probably the only person I know who could use the fresh ripe oranges off her tree for this salad. The rest of us will have to make do with the canned ones. Mandarin Orange Salad Salad Ingredients Approx. 2 cups mandarin orange slices 5 ounces mixed baby greens, whatever fresh lettuce you have 1/3 cup dried cranberries 1/2 cup almonds (chopped, slivered, or sliced) Approx. 2 Tbsp fresh mint (torn or chopped) 1/4 cup crumbled goat cheese Salt + pepper, to taste Lemon dressing ingredients : 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 a lemon, juice 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar 1/2 tsp garlic powder Salt + pepper, to taste Instructions PREP ORANGES: If using fresh mandarin oranges, peel them well, removing as much of the white pith as desired. If using canned oranges, drain the orange slices from the liquid they are stored in. MAKE DRESSING: Combine all dressing ingredients together in a small jar or bowl. Shake or whisk to combine. PLATE SALAD: Plate salad on a large serving platter or bowl. Start with baby greens as the base, following with orange slices, dried cranberries, almonds, mint, and crumbled goat cheese. If you are using fresh goat cheese (I am spoiled to have a daughter who milks goats and makes cheese, you can drop little dollops on the salad after you’ve tossed it with the dressing). Season with salt and pepper, as desired. TOSS IN DRESSING: Toss salad in lemon dressing right before serving. Credits: Recipe from Walderwellness, https://www.walderwellness.com/mandarin-orange-salad/ Photo credits: Walderwellnes.com , Carrie Walder, MS, RD, registered dietician (1), www.publicdomainpictures.net (2)

< Back Identifying and Attracting Beneficial Insects Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Now that the plants in our gardens are starting to bloom, we are also seeing insects on those plants. Some of those insects are certainly pests but others are actually beneficial. We know how pollinators are beneficial insects - many of the foods we enjoy rely on pollinators for fruit and seed development. But how do we identify other insects that are beneficial to our gardens and landscapes in other ways? Read this article to find out! Now that the plants in our gardens are starting to bloom, we are also seeing insects on those plants. Some of those insects are certainly pests but others are actually beneficial. We know how pollinators are beneficial insects - many of the foods we enjoy rely on pollinators for fruit and seed development. But how do we identify other insects that are beneficial to our gardens and landscapes in other ways. Beneficial insects (at various stages in their life cycle and using multiple methods) can help manage the populations of insect pests like aphids. Some examples of beneficial insects include ground beetles, lady beetles, lacewings, syrphid flies and a variety of solitary and parasitoid wasps. Many of the recommendations for attracting pollinators to your garden—planting a variety of flowering plants, including native plants in your landscape or providing a water source/feature—are also true for encouraging beneficial insect visits. But beneficial insects need more than the aphids and larvae you want them to eliminate. They need pollen and nectar for energy and places to shelter and overwinter to encourage them to stay in your space. Here are several gardening strategies to attract and retain beneficial insects in your garden: Have an array of perennial and annual plants flowering consistently throughout the growing season. Leave some aphids on plants. Allow some plant litter to stay on the ground over winter. Limit or eliminate the use of pesticides. Certain plants also attract beneficial insects. In many cases, smaller flowers will attract smaller insects like syrphid flies. Some flowers commonly listed as attracting beneficial insects that do well in Minnesota gardens are: yarrow, dill, alyssum, cosmos, gem marigolds, clover, cinquefoils, fennel, lemon balm and milkweeds. For more ideas, check the internet for lists of plants that attract beneficial insects. Before adding any new plants to your yard in order to attract beneficial insects, check your local DNR list of invasive species to ensure there isn’t crossover. For example, common tansy and Queen Anne’s Lace are often listed as plants that will attract beneficial insects. But in Minnesota, both are considered noxious weeds and it is illegal to import, sell or transport them within the state. You can purchase many species of beneficial insects online. Before doing so, take a few things into consideration: Can you follow the release instructions exactly? Will you need to repeat the process? Insects often…fly away. Is the pest you are hoping to eliminate a serious problem? It can often be more sustainable to make your landscape more welcoming to beneficial insects than trying to repeatedly introduce species that have been ordered from other sources. For more information on specific beneficial insects, their life cycle and what they can do for your garden visit this U of MN Extension site. Take some time to learn more about the insects that you want to attract to your garden. Your plants will appreciate it! Photo Credit: Joanna Kapke (1,2,3)

< Back Investigating Insects in the Garden Mary Gadek, Master Gardener Calling all Family Insect Investigators! Along with plants and people enjoying the summer, many insects are traveling around in our yards and parks, too. Gather your family and friends in July to investigate insects in the Minnesota outdoors. Learn how to identify insects from other types of bugs, view some common Minnesota insects and how to do your own investigations of these creatures. Insects are bugs but not all bugs are insects There are many types of bugs in the world, like insects or spiders. Scientists that study bugs, called entomologists , group bugs into different categories. One category is insects . When you are looking around to find insects, use this insect checklist to determine if it is an insect or not: Three basic regions of the insect body- A. Head - (front of body) includes an antenna, eyes and mouth parts; B. Thorax - (middle of body) has three pairs of walking legs; C. Abdomen - (back of body) contains a heart, reproductive organs and digestive system. 2. Legs - depending on the insect, the legs are shaped to help carry out their day to day activities, including swimming or holding prey. 3. A pair of compound eyes - their eyes can see multiple images that appear like many dots and can judge distance and movement with ease. The special eyes allow the insects to catch their prey to eat. 4. Antennae - The body segment located on the head helps the insects smell and taste, and, sometimes, determine air currents. Some insects have wings, while some do not. For more details, see: https://www.amentsoc.org/insects/what-bug-is-this/insects.html Insects found in Minnesota Our Minnesota yards and parks contain many different insects. Many are pollinators , which help fertilize our plants so more plants can grow. Pollinators are important because we rely on the earth’s plants to give humans and earth’s creatures food to live. Here are some insects you can find in Minnesota: Bumble bees These very hairy creatures are usually 3/8 - 3/4 inch long with black and yellow or orange striped bodies. Bumble bees pollinate our plants. Nests can be found in the ground or little spaces of a garden, like in a retaining wall. 2. Honey bees are about ½” long, with a golden brown color, a fuzzy body and wings. They are pollinators , which help fertilize our plants so they can grow. 3. Ladybugs More than 50 species of native lady bugs reside in Minnesota. They have many names, but are all the same insect: ladybugs, lady beetles or ladybird beetles. When full grown, most ladybugs have domed, hard, round to oval bodies, usually with a red color with black spots, but some with black, yellow, pink, and orange shells. Gardens benefit from ladybugs because they are pollinators as well as eaters of some insects that harm plants. 4. Butterflies Minnesota hosts many types of butterflies for their short life of about 4-6 weeks during mid-Summer (See list of Minnesota butterflies at: https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/list-of-butterflies-in-minnesota/ ). The orange and black monarchs hold the title of “Minnesota State Butterfly”. As these beautiful insects fly from plant to plant, they pollinate our plants, too. 5. Ants A common ant in Minnesota’s outdoors is a field ant . In July through September, look for the black, brown or red creature measuring 1/8 to 1/4 inch long in exposed dirt areas, making dirt mounds up to 10 inches across. They can also nest under objects, such as wood, stones, and patio blocks. The ants benefit our gardens because they eat live and dead insects. Investigate Want to be an Insect Investigator this summer?! Using the information in this article, head outside to your yard or local park to do one or all of these fun, family activities : Scavenger Hunt: Look high and low in your yard or local park to see if you can find the following common insects described in this article: bumble bees, honey bees, ladybugs, butterflies and ants. Extra Challenge Scavenger Hunt- Gather family and friends along with some paper, pencils and a timer. Set the timer for 10 minutes (or whatever time limit you wish). See who can find and write down the most of the listed insects (can find repeats) before your timer goes off. The winner can be declared the “Insect Champion of the Day.” Try again later in the season to see if everyone finds more, less or about the same amount of insects compared to the first challenge. Insect Hotel- You can make a “hotel” for insects to live in and for you to watch them live in your garden. Using a clear, clean container, with at least one opening, such as a recycled plastic bottle, carefully remove the top with the help of a grown up. Gather outside leaves, flowers, sticks and other natural items and put them inside the container. Now you have an “insect hotel”! Place the filled container in a location in your yard where you can observe any insects that come to live in your “insect hotel”. Use your investigative skills to determine if you found an insect or if it is a little creature from another bug category. Keep a journal or take pictures of all the insects you see. To continue more investigation, find out more through these programs in Minnesota: READ I Love Bugs! Philemon Sturges A book for younger learners with simple, yet useful descriptions of common bugs. Available at: Dakota County Library, ISBN: 9780060561680, 978006056169, or on Amazon Bugs!Bugs!Bugs! Bob Barber Colorful book for younger children describing common bugs in our yards and containing a useful chart to assist with identification. Available at: Dakota County Library, Digital Format or Amazon References : https://www.amentsoc.org/insects/what-bug-is-this/insects.html https://extension.umn.edu/wildlife/wild-pollinators https://extension.umn.edu/beneficial-insects/lady-beetles https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-butterfly-monarch/ https://www.learnaboutnature.com/insects/butterflies/list-of-butterflies-in-minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/insects-infest-homes/ants#odorous-house-ant-42365 https://extension.umn.edu/projects-and-more/4-h-entomology-project Photo Credit: Mark Gadek (1,2,4,5) & University of Minnesota Extension (3,6) & Philemon Sturges (7,8)