< Back Choosing Iris in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Late spring and early summer bring Iris blooms in Minnesota! Strolling through the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, you will find many varieties of iris located in the Perennial Garden, and all around the Arb. In fact, the UMN Arboretum website arb.umn.edu lists 677 individual specimens currently on the website’s plant finder! You can plant iris in your own garden but which ones to choose? Read on for some considerations when choosing iris for your Minnesota garden. Several different types of iris can be grown in Dakota County and around Minnesota. Sun exposure and soil conditions are important considerations when choosing which type to plant. Of course, there are so many beautiful colors and forms to choose from for your garden design too! Blue Flag Iris ( iris versicolor ) is one of my favorite plants in my own garden - and is native to Minnesota. Blue Flag Iris can handle part shade to sun, and soils that are semi-moist to moist. This is a great option for the edges of rain gardens and marshes. ( minnesotawildflowers.info ) Blue Flag Iris Dutch Iris ( iris hollandica ) grow from bulbs, rather than rhizomes like other iris, and do best with full sun and well-drained soil. Most varieties are hardy in Zones 5-9, so they are grown as annuals in colder climates. I have had mixed results with this variety coming back in my Dakota County home garden, depending on the winter. They are a sweet bit of spring color. Dutch Iris Bearded Iris ( iris or iris germanica ) need full sun and well-drained, leaning to dry, soil. According to the Minnesota Historical Society, avoid over-watering once iris are established, and keep mulch away from the rhizomes in order to prevent disease and rot. It is quite a striking sight to see individual plants, or a mass of bearded iris standing tall (blooms on single stems can rise above 3 feet!) Bearded Iris Japanese Iris ( iris ensata ) are “beardless” and bloom after the Bearded iris, allowing the iris show to continue past July (Iris Society of Minnesota). They have larger, flatter, blooms and prefer more moisture in their soil than the Bearded iris (University of MN Extension). Japanese Iris Siberian Iris ( iris sibirica ) are also “beardless,” grown in part to full sun, and tolerate “a wide variety of soils, but will perform best when grown in moist fertile, organically rich, slightly acidic, well drained soils,” according to North Carolina Extension. Siberian Iris Other varieties of iris that can be grown in Minnesota and are listed on the Arboretum’s website, such as: Cattail iris (iris typhifolia), Orchid Iris (iris histroides), Dwarf crested iris (iris cristata), Sandy Iris (iris arenaria), Dalmation Iris (iris pallida), Roof Iris (iris tectorum), Spuria Iris (iris spuria), Blackberry lily (iris domestica) - are found in the perennial garden as well as the dedicated Iris Garden. You will also find an abundance of iris all around the arboretum. Something catch your attention? Use the Plant Finder tool at arb.umn.edu and find your way to a new favorite bloom if the time is right! Here’s an iris to watch out for and not in a good way: Yellow iris ( iris pseudacorus ). Yellow Iris is found in boggy areas and near waterways. It is a “regulated invasive species,” in Minnesota, meaning plants are “legal to buy, sell, transport and possess but may not be introduced into a free-living state, such as released into public waters (UMN Extension). Why worry about planting yellow iris? It competes with native shoreline vegetation and should be reported to the Minnesota Department of Resources if found. The Arb lists one occurrence of this species - on the Fern Walk. See you if you spot it next time you visit! Wherever you’ve found a place to add an iris (or a few) to your garden, there’s a right iris for you. Happy planting! Resources https://www.irismn.net/ minnesotawildflowers.info https://northerngardener.org/irises/ https://arb.umn.edu/ https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/iris-sibirica/ Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1), Gayle Bergevin (2,6), Sarah Heidtke (3,4,5,7)

< Back April is Here! No Worries - Quick Seed Germination Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The first day of spring has come and gone, but it is still too early to plant seeds outside and maybe too late to start seeds inside? Or is it? Let’s try this quick germination activity with the little ones in your life to get a jumpstart on your flower or vegetable garden. The seeds are bought and we are all anxiously awaiting the gardening season. It is a great time to introduce the children in your life to see germination. The paper towel seed germination method helps to germinate more seeds in less space, pick the best seeds that have germinated and germinate seeds faster. What a simple way to not only see seeds germinate before your eyes, but to also take this process to the next level of transplanting the seedlings into a beautiful vegetable garden plant. Items Needed : Paper Towels (absorbent/thicker ones work the best) Seeds (for beginners try peppers, tomatoes, peas & zucchini) Clear plastic sandwich, pint or gallon bags Permanent Marker Tweezers & Pencil Water (Spray Bottle) Small indoor pots (plastic or biodegradable) to use for transplanting seedlings Potting Soil Let’s Get Started Paper Towel Prep : Wet the paper towels (number of towels will depend on how many seeds are started) Double the paper towels into a large square and wet paper towels by running under water either from faucet or from watering can Ring out paper towels so that they are damp, but not too wet. If the seeds get too wet, they will mold/rot and then will be unable to sprout. Time for Seed Germination Prep : Choose seeds and place on one half of the square paper towel. Once seeds are placed, fold over the other half of the paper towel so that the seeds are sandwiched between. It is recommended that the paper towels should be rolled if you are germinating tomato seeds. The paper towels with the seeds sandwiched between should then be placed in an appropriately sized plastic bag. The bag can be labeled with the type of seed that is inside. The bag can be left open slightly to help prevent mold from forming. Place the Seed Germination Bag in a warm and sunny spot in your home. Daily Monitoring : Daily monitor seeds for roots to appear as well as to monitor for watering needs. A white root will eventually emerge from the seed. Make sure that the paper towel does not dry out and if it begins to dry, mist with a spray bottle. Monitor for mold on the seeds and paper towels as well. Time to Transplant : When the root is an inch or two long it is time to transplant. Prepare small potting containers by placing potting soil inside. Place a hold for planting in the soil by using a pencil to make a hole. The roots are very fragile. Take a tweezer and gently pick-up the seeding by the seed coat. Place the seedling into the hole so that only the white part is beneath the soil. The seed coat and green stem should be above the soil line. Cover the hole gently with soil. Continue this process for each seed that has germinated or the number of seeds you choose to transplant. Before planting outside, wait until your seeds have true leaves and follow the process for acclimating the plants to being transplanted in your outdoor garden. Photo Credits : PxHere.com (1), Flickr.com (2,3), Pexels.com (4)

< Back Forcing Flower Bulbs Successfully Need a little color in your home this winter? After all the holiday décor is stored away, forcing flower bulbs indoors is a great way to enjoy flowers, both for their color and fragrance, during the cold winter months. Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Forcing bulbs indoors is quite easy and does not require expensive materials. You will first need to choose some bulbs. Flower bulbs that are easy to force are: Grape Hyacinths, Daffodils, Hyacinths and Paperwhites. These can be found at most garden stores or purchased through catalogs and online. Chilling Prechill bulbs, such as hyacinths and daffodils. To do so, place them in a paper bag and store in the refrigerator for at least 6 weeks. Paperwhites and amaryllis bulbs do not require a chilling period. Forcing bulbs in water One of the easiest ways to force bulbs is in water. Find a vase or jar that will hold your bulb or bulbs in an even layer. Fill the container with water to just touch the base of the bulb(s.) You will quickly see roots forming. Once you see them, keep the water level below the bulb to prevent rotting. Keep in a cool. Dark place until you see an inch or two of leaf growth. Move the bulbs to a bright spot but avoid direct sunlight. Rotate the vase from time to time to keep the plant growing straight. Add water when needed but keep it below the bottom of the bulb. Forcing bulbs on stones If using a larger vase, creating a base of stones can help keep your bulbs above the water level. Some “stone” options are pea gravel, river rock, glass chips and marbles. Set the bulbs on top of the stones then add a few stones around each bulb to anchor them and keep from tipping. Do not cover them. Add water to reach the base of the bulbs. Add water as it evaporates, keeping the level just below the bulb base. Tip for Paperwhites Get your Paperwhites tipsy! Paperwhites tend to get a little floppy, to prevent this, when leaves are 1 to 2 inches tall, pour out the plain water in your vase and replace with a 1:8 alcohol-to-water solution. Do not over do it, too much alcohol can kill the plants. You can use vodka, whiskey or rum. The use of this mixture stunts the plant’s growth, keeping it compact and sturdy. Keep adding until it is done flowering. Follow these tips to enjoy bringing a little early Spring to your home. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gail Maifeld (2)

< Back Rose Mallow - A Rose of the North Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Have a riverbank, marsh, or rain garden to manage? Consider adding the lovely, long-blooming Rose Mallow. This article will tell you why and how. Hibiscus lasiocarpos As Juliet observed of her beloved Romeo, “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” We may then ask, “Would that which we call a rose be less beautiful if it is not?” To this I would unhesitatingly say, “Yes in the case of the rose mallow”. H. lasiocarpos and H. moscheutos are nearly identical members of the mallow family (Malvaceae). They are native to most of the Lower Midwest and northward to areas around Lakes Michigan and Erie. Their closely related cousin, the somewhat more cold-tolerant Halberd-leaved rose mallow ( H. laevis ) is native to Southeast Minnesota and up the Missouri River Valley. The rose mallows are hardy through zones 4-9. These perennials are closely related to the much-prized tropical hibiscus. Halberd-leaved rose mallow As you might expect, this gorgeous plant has been hybridized into a large number of attractive cultivars available at your local nursery. The value of these cultivars to our pollinators remains to be determined. There is no question, however that the three native species are key players in the ecological web of the Northern Midwest. They are very nectar and pollen rich, being great additions to a pollinator garden. Halberd-leaved rose mallow The rose mallows are essentially a wetlands plant found around lakes and rivers. They may even be seen growing in standing water. They do well though in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. If they are in a bed, remember to water them during dry, mid-summer weather. They eventually grow to about five feet so you should keep that in mind if inserting them into a border garden. They do well as a backdrop to sun loving ground covers. Rose mallow is slow to emerge from dormancy but once in gear it is a rapid grower, putting on as much as an inch per day. The blooms are quite showy, appearing from July to September so you would do well to mix them with earlier blooming perennials such as Jacob’s Ladder or creeping phlox. The flowers are from three to five inches across with a red center “eye” from which the stamen protrudes. Flower petals may vary from white to shades of pink. Once established, application of a slow-release fertilizer in the spring can enhance growth. While you are at it, pruning back the old growth to about six inches will help to make way for the new foliage. Deadheading usually is not necessary. Rose mallow winters over pretty well although putting a couple of inches of mulch over the plants in the fall will reduce the chance of winter kill. So, if you have a riverbank, marsh or rain garden to plant, you would do well to incorporate the lovely rose mallow. Photo Credit: Taylor Creek Nursery (1,2,3)

< Back September - A Jar of Flowers Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Summertime - a flower extravaganza! The beauty of flowers cannot be beat, but now what do we do as summer comes to a close. Is there a way to preserve or hold onto the flowers throughout fall and winter? Did you say throughout winter? Yes, it is possible to preserve your summertime flowers throughout Winter in a fun and creative way with the Little Sprouts in your life using simple items you may have at home! We are going to learn how to not just press our summer flowers, but turn them into a beautiful decoration to give as a gift or keep for ourselves. Supplies Needed : Flowers from garden (best are smaller or more open petal flowers/blooms, leaves, grasses; ex. Cosmos, Pansy, Hydrangea, Daisy, Larkspur, Forget-Me-Not, etc.) Parchment Paper or Tissue Paper Heavy objects (used to lay on top of flowers while pressing) Glass Container (ex. canning, jam/pickle/olive jars), Vase, Votive Mod Podge (DIY - glue & water mixed to a milky consistency) Brush Patience (waiting for flowers to dry may take a couple weeks) Find your favorite “Little Sprout” and visit your flower garden and begin finding your favorite flowers, leaves and grasses. It is a great time to explore and introduce your “Little Sprout” to the world of gardening and explore all there is to see. Watch for pollinators, talk about the various plant parts, shapes, colors and varieties. Cut the flowers you would like to use (choosing drier flowers is best) and with a paper towel gently press the flowers, leaves and grasses trying to get out as much moisture as possible. Now the drying process begins. Place flowers/leaves/grass between double layers of tissue paper and then place between two heavy objects (books, wood pieces with heavy objects placed on top). Flowers/leaves/grasses will take about 2-4 weeks to dry fully. Check on your flowers after a week to see if new tissue paper is needed. Flowers can mold during this process if they start out too moist and changing the tissue paper allows for better moisture absorption. Place heavy objects again on the flowers/leaves/grass. Repeat this process until all items are completely dry. Once all flowers/leaves/grasses are dry it is time to create a “Jar of Flowers”. Take the jar, vase or votive (glass container) you have chosen and with the brush, spread a coat of Mod Podge or the DIY Glue/Water mixture on the outside of the glass trying to put it on as smooth as possible if you do not want brush marks to show. Next, take the dried flowers/leaves/grasses and place them on your glass container as you wish to create a unique design. Add a second layer of Mod Podge or DIY Glue/Water mixture covering all of the glass container. Let dry! Once dry your glass container can be turned into a vase or votive holder. Give the creation away or keep for yourself. It will remind you and your “Little Sprout” throughout the year of your beautiful flower garden and all the fun that can be had with a few flowers, a glue mixture and a glass container/jar. Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1,2) , www.littlepinelearners.com (3)

< Back Spaghetti Squash (“Cucurbita pepo”) Spaghetti Squash is something to consider introducing to your diet. It is relatively easy to find in the grocery stores in the winter as well as Farmer’s Markets in the late summer months. You can also grow it in your own garden! It is rich in vitamins and antioxidants, low in calorie and carbohydrates, high in fiber, and easy to prepare. Spaghetti Squash is different than typical squash varietals in that it can be shredded into strands resembling “spaghetti” and can be used as a gluten-free replacement to pasta, helping you achieve your carb reduction or weight loss goals. Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Are you looking for a new nutritious vegetable to introduce to your diet? Are you looking to reduce the amount of carbohydrates you consume, or an alternative to traditional spaghetti? Are you interested in finding a new recipe that is easy and fun to make? What Is Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash is a variety of winter squash, native to the Americas. It is a large oval vegetable typically with a light yellow, thin skin. Similar to other winter squash, it has a netting of seeds at its center, which can be roasted and eaten separately. Spaghetti Squash is unique, in that after cooking, its flesh can be shredded into long strands resembling spaghetti. Its botanical name is Cucurbita pepo. How to Prepare Rinse the exterior and cut in half length-wise Remove seeds in the center with a large spoon, scrape out netting Place on rimmed baking sheet or pan with cut-side down Add about ¼ inch of water to pan Bake in 375 degree oven for about 40 minutes or until the outer shell can be pressed down slightly with your finger Remove from oven, flip each half to expose the flesh and let cool a few minutes With a fork, scrape at the flesh, shredding it into spaghetti-like strands Nutritional Information Spaghetti squash is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and beta-carotene. One cup (155 grams) of cooked spaghetti squash contains the following: Calories: 42 Carbs: 10 grams Fiber: 2.2 grams Protein: 1 gram Fat: 0.4 grams Vitamin C: 6% of the DV Manganese: 7% of the DV Vitamin B6: 9% of the DV Pantothenic acid: 11% of the DV Niacin: 8% of the DV Spaghetti squash also contains small amounts of potassium, thiamine, magnesium, foliate, calcium, and iron. How to grow Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash can be grown by directly seeding in your garden. Plant two weeks after the last spring frost, typically the end of May or early June in Minnesota. Chose a spot with full sun (at least 8 hours a day) and a loose, well-drained soil. Amend the soil with compost since the plants need nutrient-dense soil. Plant in hills, with 3 or 4 seeds per hill and 3 feet between each hill. Provide 1 inch of water per week (1-5 gallons per plant) during the growing season. Add water directly to the soil, avoiding the leaves. Spaghetti Squash takes approximately 100 days from planting to harvest – or by the end of August or September. Harvest before the first hard freeze. You can test the ripeness of the fruit by pressing your thumbnail into the rind. It should be hard to pierce. For more information on how to grow spaghetti and other winter squash varieties visit this University of Minnesota Extension website. Recipe Spaghetti squash can be used in a variety of ways and can be a great substitute for traditional pasta, providing a higher nutritional value and lower caloric content. Try this tasty recipe: Spaghetti Squash with Ground Turkey Bolognese Ingredients: One large spaghetti squash One 32-ounce jar of prepared spaghetti sauce or marinara One pound of ground turkey 1 package sliced mushrooms 1 teaspoon oregano Grated parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired Directions: Prepare and bake spaghetti squash in 375 degree oven, as directed above. Brown the ground turkey in a large fry pan with the mushrooms, season with 1 teaspoon oregano Add jar of spaghetti sauce or marinara to fry pan. Simmer 10 minutes. Shred the spaghetti squash into strands; serve on a plate and ladle turkey/sauce mixture over the top. Serve with parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: Mary Barnidge (1), www.midgetmomma.com (2)

< Back Virginia Creeper: Groundcover and Climber Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a native vine as ground cover in a shady area? Do you want it to cover a tree, a rock wall or an unsightly outbuilding? As explained in this article, Virginia Creeper may be the plant for you. Not only is it versatile, it has many virtues including a beautiful rosy color in the fall. Few native vines are as versatile as Virginia Creeper ( Parthenocissus quinquefolia ) . Do you want a ground cover in a shady area? It’ll do it. Do you want a vine to cover an unsightly outbuilding? It’s at your service! This native workhorse goes by a number of labels, including Virginia creeper, Victoria creeper, Five-Leaved Ivy, or Five-Finger. Virginia Creeper is a species of flowering vine in the grape family, Vitaceae and native to eastern and central North America. It’s commonly found in our own Minnesota woods. It’s not to be confused with Boston ivy, a Japanese import covering the hallowed halls of the Ivy League and Wrigley Field. The latter is invasive and not nearly as decorative as our own native son. Virginia creeper is easy to grow. It is happy in full sun or deep shade in most any well drained soil. Although it seems to prefer a moist, acidic soil. Given time it can grow as long as 50 feet. As it grows by tendrils with adhesive disks at their ends, Virginia creeper can stick itself to whatever it is growing on. So, it can cover almost anything without benefit of a trellis. If you have a low-value tree in the landscape it is perfectly at home growing up its trunk or limbs. We have it growing up a flood light post to great effect. As mentioned above, it also can act as a fine ground cover on a difficult, steep slope. In addition to its versatility and durability, Parthenocissus quinquefolia is a very showy plant, creating a wonderful cloak of green during the spring and summer which turns a fiery red in the fall. Fall also brings a show of blue-black berries which are inedible for us but an important source of energy for birds beginning their migration southward. Another ecological plus is the rich nectar produced by its modest green-white flowers. It is greatly favored by both bees and hummingbirds. Virginia creeper is usually available in most nurseries. There are a couple of cultivars commonly found in the trade: “Star Showers” which has a variegated foliage and “Yellow Wall” whose foliage turns yellow in the fall rather than the red of the species. Either cultivars or species should perform well in most all of Minnesota. Photo Credits: University of Wisconsin-Madison (1,2)

< Back Bleach Dying Dark T-Shirts Joy Johnson, Master Gardener We’re always looking for activities for our children or grandchildren in the summer. A fun summer project to do with children, or adults for that matter, is bleach dying. It’s cheap, fairly easy, fun and educational. In this article you will learn how to use plants from your garden to create a fun and pretty design through bleach dying. A fun summer project to do with children, or adults for that matter, is bleach dying. It’s cheap, fairly easy, fun and educational. I think in lists, so this is written as a list, it may seem long, but the actually process goes quite quickly. I just didn’t want to leave anything out, so you can have a successful product. 1. Wear really old clothes and shoes that you don’t care about (or go barefoot). 2. Warn anyone who has cuts or scrapes on their hands, as children often do, this will sting a bit, so prepare them for that. It does do a really good job of cleaning their hands! I would not wear gloves; you need to be able to grab and move wet delicate leaves and coins quickly and carefully. 3. Equipment needed: a. Two large buckets (5 gallon) b. Bleach c. Vinegar d. A medium sized spray bottle to put the bleach in. e. Lots of coins to use as weights. Rocks don’t work, I tried that. f. Water g. Kneeling pad if you’re doing this on the ground. h. A large place to work outside (I strongly suggest concrete). DO NOT work on the grass. The bleach will kill the grass. i. A dark colored t-shirt, one for each person, in their size. I chose black, but red, dark green and navy blue or brown work too. j. Cardboard or layers of newspaper to put inside the shirts so the bleach doesn’t soak through. Remember though, the shirt needs to lay flat. k. Extra-large weights for pressing down leaves that tend to curl. I used a piece of plywood and a wooden block. 4. Process: a. Half fill spray bottles with bleach. Rinse them off in case you dripped some on the outside. b. Fill one large bucket about 2/3 full with cold water. Add 2 cups of vinegar. This is your first rinse water. c. Fill the other bucket about 2/3 full with cold water. This is your second rinse water. d. Go snip or pick some leaves, ferns, flowers etc. Just remember that they need to lay flat. It’s helpful to choose leaves that have hair or fuzz on one side because they will stick to the shirt and you can gently press them flat with your hand. e. Put the cardboard inside the shirt. f. Lay the shirt flat on the concrete. g. Lay leaves and ferns on the shirt in whatever design you choose. h. Weigh them down with coins, being very careful to not let the coin go past the edge of the leaf. i. Use plywood or heavy blocks to press delicate curly or especially stubborn leaves that don’t want to lay flat. (Depending on what you have, it might take a while for them to relax and flatten out) this would be a good time to have a snack and work on identifying the various plants that were chosen. j. Remove any large weights carefully. k. Spritz shirt with bleach by standing above it and spraying straight down. DO NOT spray at an angle or you will get bleach under the edge of the leaves and your design won’t be crisp. l. DO NOT overuse the bleach. Wait about 5 seconds and the shirt should start to fade and show other colors. This part is quite fun, because you never know what colors are going to appear. m. Don’t wait too long. The bleach acts quickly and will eat holes in your shirt if you don’t get it in the vinegar water. n. Quickly and carefully remove the coins and leaves. DO NOT let them tip and drip bleach on your shirt. Remember they are covered with bleach. Any drips will show immediately. If you look carefully at the photos, I was moving too fast and dripped a couple of times when removing coins from the morning glory leaves. You can see that a couple of the leaves have drippy dots on them. o. Pick up the shirt by the shoulders and immediately immerse it into the vinegar water bucket. Swish it around, loosen it up, work the vinegar water all through it while counting to 60. p. Squeeze it gently over the bucket q. Immerse it in the plain water bucket and again swish it around and work the plain water all through it, this time count backwards from 60! r. Gently squeeze the shirt letting the water drain back into the bucket. s. Hang on the clothesline to dry t. Or you can wash all your shirts in your washing machine with a bit of detergent in cold water and tumble dry. Make sure no other clothes get washed with the shirts for this first wash. If you’re going to do this, have an empty, clean bucket or laundry basket by your work area to transport them to the machine. Otherwise, you’re going to have a trail of drips from outside all the way to your machine. u. Throw all your leaves and ferns in the trash. v. Rinse off all the coins in the plain water before returning them to your pocket! w. Throw cardboard away or recycle. x. Empty all of the spray bottles back into the large bleach container and thoroughly rinse them OR clearly label them “Bleach.” y. Empty the water buckets and return all other supplies. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (all)

< Back Shade Gardens Susan Ball, Dakota Gardener Master Gardener Shade – a gardener’s headache? Does your garden require full sun to be beautiful? NO! While most flowers do require hours of full sun, there are attractive foliage plants and even colorful flowering plants that flourish in shade. As you start to plan your garden for 2025, this article gives you lots of ideas for how to make the most of the areas of your yard that are a bit sun challenged. Shade. A gardener’s headache. All the beautiful and brilliantly colored plants require hours of sun. What’s left is dull and colorless. Not true! While most flowers do require hours of full sun, there are attractive foliage plants and even colorful flowering plants that flourish in shade. First off, know that there are different levels of shade, from part to deep. Deep or full shade means a spot never gets direct sunlight, or only a very short amount of mild, morning sunshine. Part shade means about 4 hours of sun—but mostly morning sun, not blazing-hot afternoon sun. To garden successfully in the shade, know the size of your planting area, your cold hardiness zone (in Dakota County and most of middle Minnesota that would be zone 4), your shade level and your soil conditions. You also need to know if you want to grow perennials - which regrow every year - or annuals - which live for one growing season and then die. (You can grow both). With this information in hand, you can select your plants. If you haven’t heard of that shade “staple”, the hosta, know that hostas - perennials with leaves in many color combinations and textures - are not only easy to grow but can survive in deep shade. They even have flowers, usually violet but white as well. While many hostas prefer part shade - particularly those with gold tones and those with edging or centers of white or cream - “blue” hostas need deep shade to protect the waxy coating on their leaves. Hostas can grow in a wide range of soils, although they prefer moist soils rich in organic matter. While spring is the preferred planting time, hostas can be planted all summer. Be sure to give them extra water then so the roots develop without drying out. Other shade plants include Lenten rose, Jacob’s ladder, astilbe, Dutchman’s breeches and its relative, bleeding hearts . . . and shrubs such as hydrangeas and rhododendrons. Many native plants, especially the spring blooming ones, are also shade lovers. Lenten Roses , also known as Hellebores , are shade plants producing delicate, long-lasting flowers in late winter and early spring. They need little to no moisture and are hardy to zone 4. These are the pluses. Although lovely, a major minus is that these flowers hang downward under their leaves so you must practically stand on your head to see and enjoy them. They can be found at nurseries or ordered online. Dutchmen’s breeches (their delicate white flowers look like breeches hanging on a clothes line), their relative Bleeding hearts and lily of the valley, tiny, bell-like flowers with a beautiful fragrance, are other spring perennials you might want to add to your shade garden. All are hardy in zone 4 and require similar conditions: shade, little to no moisture and well-drained soil. Bleeding Heart Then there are native plants, most of which thrive in shade. Spring Beauty, which, as the name suggests, blooms in the spring, Lady’s Slipper, Jack-in-the Pulpit, Trillium (big white flowers) and May Apples all love shade. Generally, not available at big box stores, look for these charming natives at native plant nurseries or online. There are also summer blooming shade flowers to consider. Brunnera is a perennial with tiny blue flowers that loves shade but does not tolerate droughts or dry soil. As long as you water it and keep it away from too much sun, it will bloom beautifully. It is hardy to zone 3. Jack Frost Brunnera Another perennial with tiny flowers, coral bells , also grows in shade and has a variety of colored foliage. This delicate blooming plant joins foam flower, Jacob’s ladder and astilbes, additional summer blooming shade perennials. All of these plants need to be well-watered, especially when growing under tree shade (which can dry them out). Foam flowers have small, poofy flowers that grow in clusters and like partial and full shade. Be careful not to underwater or overwater foamflower - both are fatal. Jacob’s Ladder has attractive blue and purple flowers and has the added bonus of being rabbit and deer resistant. Astilbes grow large (up to 5 feet depending on the variety), and have showy plumes of tiny flowers in shades of pink, red, white and royal blue that will liven up any shady area. They are also, reportedly, deer resistant. If you are looking for a shade loving plant that will also attract butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden Black Bugbane is your flower. These fragrant, tall, fluffy flowers sport dark purple leaves that will turn white by the end of the summer. Grow them in partial to full shade with medium moisture. Then there are the annuals. Among those you may want to consider are coleus , a leafy plant with incredible colored leaves: pink and green, purples and yellow and dark reds and almost everything in-between. Impatiens are another pretty annual in multiple colors - red, pink, orange, white and violet. These plants bloom well in shade but are susceptible to dry conditions so be sure to keep them well watered. Shade begonias , with similar colored flowers - except orange and violet - have smaller flowers but are studier plants, tolerating some dryness. Coleus Heartbreaker There are beautiful shrubs that tolerate partial to full shade as well. Check out white hydrangeas, single and double flowered rhododendrons and their relatives, the azaleas . All these shrubs have beautiful and abundant flowers in multiple colors and can be found at most big box stores. Shade, even deep shade, is no reason for a gardener to despair. With planning, a combination of annuals, perennials and shrubs will provide texture and color in shade from spring through fall. REFERENCES “HOSTAS”, https://extension.umn.edu/search?q=hostas in Minnesota Sansone, Arricca, “25 Best Shade Perennials That Thrive Out of the Sun”, https://www.countryliving.com/gardening/garden-ideas/g24882877/shade-perennials/ ? Spring Hill Nursery, “Astilbes”, https://springhillnursery.com/pages/astilbe_growing_tips_and_benefits Spring Hill Nursery, “Jacob’s Ladder”, https://springhillnursery.com/products/touch-of-class-jacobs-ladder ? Weisenhorn, Julie, GARDENING IN THE SHADE, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,5), CallyL, Pixabay (2), www.flickr.com (3,4)

< Back Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens): Romance in the air Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener A warm summer night and the fragrance of wisteria is in the air. Okay, I admit to being a bit of a romantic, but this gorgeous native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. Learn why and how to grow this lovely climbing vine in your garden in this article. Wisteria frutescens or Amerious native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. can wisteria is a woody, deciduous, climbing vine native to the wet forests and stream banks of the southeastern United States with a growing range stretching from the states of Virginia to East Texas extending southeast through Florida and north to New York and the Central Midwest extending into southern Minnesota . Fragrant, pea-like, lilac-purple or blue flowers will develop in April-May after the leaves emerge. Sometimes some additional blooming will develop in the summer. Although the flowers are usually blueish, some cultivars will produce white or dark burgundy blooms, or even have hints of yellow or green. If you are going to give American wisteria a go, you should of course provide some fairly sturdy trellising as the plant can grow as tall as 15 to 40 feet and 4 to 8 feet wide. Wisteria likes full sun (6 + hours per day) but will soldier along in part shade (2-6 hours of direct sunlight). Blooming might be a problem if it is overly shaded. It will do well in either clay or loam but good drainage of moist, occasionally wet soil is important. Wisteria also likes acid soil with pH tending toward 6.0 which is why it does well on a moist forest border. It acts as a host for larval forms of several butterflies and functions as an important nectar source for both bees and butterflies. American wisteria is relatively resistant to most pests, although honey fungus can be a problem as are a number of chewing insects. Deer and rabbits don’t usually consider wisteria as their first choice on the menu. Flowering usually occurs in the second or third year although not always, so be patient! Failure to bloom may be due to too much shade as we said, so choose your site well. Wisteria frutescens does not like to be transplanted. Frost damage or over fertilization may sometimes be the causes of non-flowering. A judicious application of 10-10-10 in the spring usually suffices. Also, since it is hardy only to Zone 5A, it might be prudent to mulch heavily in the fall in a southern Minnesota garden. Some nice cultivars to look for in your local nursery include “Alba” and “Nivea” with white flowers, “Magnifica” and “Swantly Purple”. “Amethyst Falls” produces a lovely, lightly fragrant lavender-purple bloom. Pruning should usually be done in the spring after flowering to control the size and spread of the plant. American wisteria does well as an accent to native or pollinator gardens especially on slopes, banks or rock walls. Regardless of placement it will add a colorful, fragrant and, perhaps romantic element to your landscape. Photo Credit: USDA (1), Bev Wagar, NC State Extension (2)

< Back Earth Day Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Earth Day - Every April 22, the world celebrates the Earth and raises awareness about taking care of our environment. Kids of all ages can work together with their families and friends to make a positive impact on the environment right in their own gardens and communities. This article, first published in the Garden Buzz in 2022, is updated to provide information about current Earth Day events in Dakota County. Every April 22, the world celebrates the Earth and raises awareness about taking care of our environment. Kids of all ages can work together with their families and friends to make a positive impact on the environment right in their own gardens and communities. Take Action on Earth Day WHY do we need to act to help the Earth? Climate Change - Climate change is the process of our Earth heating up. Not “it’s time to go to the beach!” heating up, but, instead, our weather has become more extreme and unpredictable. Events, like severe heat, droughts and floods, are hard on the survival of our plants and animals. Emissions from fuel from our usage of cars, trucks, machinery and power facilities all contribute to climate change. Plastic Pollution - Plastic waste, from disposable water bottles to grocery store plastic bags, is ending up in our water all across the Earth. Marine wildlife end up eating the plastic, which is harmful to their bodies, or get tangled up in the plastic, making it difficult to function or even live. Earth’s Unique Habitats and Creatures Are Vulnerable - When the planet fails to take care of itself, its different areas are negatively impacted. For example, it is estimated that about 15 billion trees in the world are cut down each year. Without trees, the earth has trouble cooling down and can cause the weather to change and be more extreme. Trees shade our homes to help keep us cool during hotter days, resulting in less energy use. Plus, trees can give shelter for many animals and insects. Bees and butterflies are insects that pollinate plants which other animals depend upon to eat. Also, bees pollinate over 35% of our farms for food we eat. Native bee and butterfly populations have been quickly diminishing each year so we need to take care of them. Dakota County hosts many events on and around Earth Day. Check out these links for more information about what you can do locally to support the earth during the month of April. Eagan , Lakeville , Dakota County Parks , ACTION to take in your own garden: Plan and plant a garden or even just one more plant in your yard. Every plant in your yard, whether in the ground or in a pot, contributes in a good way to the interconnected world of plants, insects and animals, called an “ecosystem”. See below the Earth Day seed paper project as a fun way to plant seeds in your garden. When planning a garden, consider plants that grow successfully in Minnesota and attract bees and butterflies to create a pollinator garden. This article provides more information on pollinator gardens in Minnesota. Make a plant-based Bee Hotel. In the Fall during yard cleanup, collect hollowed stems of dried plants and put them into a pile in sunny spots. Bees will winter in these natural shelters. In the Spring, the bees will emerge to buzz around your garden. Replace the hotels every Fall. Plant a tree. To help replace the billions of trees cut down every year, plant a tree in your yard to help the Earth and make your landscape more beautiful. Reduce. Use solar lights in your landscape, instead of electrically wired ones. Reduce the amount of water used on your lawn by paying attention to the weather: less if it rains, more if a drought. Reuse. When you buy a new plant, clean and save the plastic pot to reuse in the winter to grow plants from seeds. Recycle. Throw any unused recyclable products into the recycle bin. Using gloves, pick up garbage at your neighborhood park. Use a reusable drinking bottle, instead of disposable ones. Walk or Bike. Get some fresh air and exercise and walk or bike in your community, instead of driving in your car. Walking or biking lessens the emissions being sent into the air. Grow your own fruit, vegetables and herbs. Grow your own fruit, vegetables or herbs in your own garden. By not driving to the store, you reduce sending emissions into the air. Bonus: In season, locally grown food is even more delicious because it is freshly picked and eaten right away. Buy local! If you are not able to grow your own food garden, buy from the local, community farmers’ markets. The farmers’ farms help create more oxygen in our air and their plants take in carbon dioxide, which is good for our air. Plus, driving shorter distances to distribute food, the farmers decrease climate change impacts. Be a Plant Advocate. Tell your neighbors about why Earth Day is important and how to take action. Make and give seed paper to spread the word! READ these books to learn more about Earth Day: Here we are: Notes for Living on Planet Earth , author Oliver Jeffers. A beautifully illustrated children’s book showing all the Earth and how we need to be nice to it. At: Dakota County Library: ISBN: 9780399167898 On Amazon at this link. Every Day Is Earth Day , author: Harriet Dyer. A bright children’s book inspiring the readers to take action everyday like it’s earth day. On Amazon at this link. Earth Day Seed Paper Project Supplies: 1 cup of scrap/shredded paper from your recycling bin; 4 shallow dishes; 1 cup water; 1 round cookie/biscuit cutter; heavy felt or thick, old towel; old sponge; vegetable food coloring; about 1 tsp of flower seeds (suggest using pollinator type plants seeds). Directions: Put the dishes on top of an old towel; Separate paper into 3 (of the 4) dishes. Add water, little by little, into each dish and combine with paper until fully wet and lumpy. Add 3-4 drops of blue food coloring to one dish with wet paper and combine. Do the same with green food coloring in a second dish. The third dish will be left without any coloring. Suggest: wear work gloves to avoid staining your hands. Set the cookie cutter in the fourth dish. Carefully take a pinch of the blue wet paper, squeeze dry and then squish into 2-4 different spots inside the cookie cutter. Repeat with green and plain wet paper. Sprinkle seeds on top of the paper circle. Take the sponge and push on the wet paper inside the circle until excess water has disappeared. Let dry for a few days. Make several of these and give to friends and neighbors as a way to celebrate our Earth! To grow the seeds, set in a pot of soil, seed side up and in a sunny spot. Spritz the paper with water to moisten it. Cover with plastic wrap until you see the first sprouts. Remove plastic and let the seedlings grow. Once the seedlings are at least 4-6” high, they are ready to plant in your garden. RESOURCES https://www.natgeokids.com/uk/kids-club/cool-kids/general-kids-club/earth-day/ https://extension.umn.edu/natural-resources https://www.c2es.org/content/climate-basics-for-kids/ https://extension.umn.edu/flowers-pollinators/annual-flowers-pollinators https://beelab.umn.edu/plant-bee-flowers https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/flowers-pollinators https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/water-saving-strategies-home-lawns Photo Credit: Wikimedia (1), Flickr.com (2), Mary Gadek (3)

< Back China Bayles Series By Susan Wittig Albert In the mood for a little light reading while exploring the world of herbs? Master Gardener and herb expert Shari Mayer reviews the “China Bayles” mystery series by Susan Wittig Albert. Each of the multiple volume mystery series centers around a particular herb. Read this article to learn more about this clever and informative mystery series. Reviewed By Shari Mayer, Master Gardener In the mood for a little light reading with an educational bent? Check out the China Bayles series by Susan Wittig Albert. This series can be likened to ‘The Cat Who…’ mystery novels, by Lilian Jackson Braun. Even if you’re not a mystery buff, these books are delightful and you learn a lot about herbs along the way. It’s a lovely read for a road trip, up at the cabin, or just sitting on your porch after a long day gardening. This series is comprised of 28 mysteries to date, each centering around a particular herb. It’s a great way to explore the world of herbs. I would recommend reading in order, although it’s not required. Albert has been publishing this series since 1992, garnering several awards along the way, including the Agatha award. She has a Ph.D. in English from Berkeley, and has also published under pen names, including Carolyn Keene and Robin Paige. In this series China Bayles is a high-powered attorney, who left that world behind to open an herb shop in a small Texas town. Each book is centered around a particular herb, and it’s amazing how much you learn about that herb as the plot thickens. I’ve been recommending this series for years now, and it doesn’t matter your age or inclination, everyone seems to love them. If you haven’t tried them, now’s the time. I used to get them from the library, but I hear Kindle, as well as Amazon Prime, both have options. Happy reading!