< Back Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a small tree to add to your landscape? Consider the Pagoda Dogwood, it grows quickly and offers delicious berries for the birds in late summer. Read more about this attractive tree here. January is a time for planning. Where to put the annuals can be figured out on the fly. Perennial forbs take a bit of thought but you can dig most of them up if you want to move them next year. However, tree placement should be very carefully considered. What looks good now will be there years from now and may not look so good. Short of a chainsaw massacre, you’ll be stuck with the ill-considered tree. Then, of course, you have to consider size. Do you really want a 90-foot white oak in your 12 x 16 courtyard? Fortunately, if you are looking for a small tree, you have many excellent choices, one of which is the Pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) or alternate-leaved dogwood. This beauty is a common understory tree which grows rapidly as a youngster, adding a new tier of branches each season. Pagoda dogwood is native to northeastern North America and is found in central and southern Minnesota, Iowa and all the way down to the Ozarks. It does best in well-drained soils and will have difficulty in clay or compacted soils. In the wild it is found in moist woodlands so it is best to plant it where it is protected from the hot afternoon sun. Observing this caveat, it will grow in full sun if there is sufficient moisture, but it will do better in part to near-full shade. One of its most compelling features is the berries produced in late summer, greatly loved by the birds. For good fruit-set, however two separate trees are needed. After a time, some trunks will suddenly die and turn orange. Quick rejuvenation is possible by pruning away the dead trunk. Select a vigorous new shoot from the sprouts that usually emerge quickly. Pagoda dogwood’s horizontal tiers of branches give the tree its name and render it a charming ornamental at the corner of the house or the edger of a wooded landscape. It is great as a bird garden plant. These lovely branches are festooned with clusters of creamy white blooms in the late spring. The resulting berries are bluish black and ripen in late summer, providing welcome nourishment to a variety of songbirds. Come fall, the leaves will turn a striking yellow to burgundy. The popularity of this showy ornamental has been enhanced by the development of a number of great cultivars. You might check your local nursery this spring for such attractive varieties as “Pistachio”, “French Vanilla”, “Gold Bullion” or “Big Chocolate Chip”. Whichever you choose, keep it well-watered and mulched that first year and you’ll soon have a great addition to your landscape! Photo credits: Morton Arboretum (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Let’s Learn About Evergreens! Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. December is a month when evergreens are seen everywhere—indoors and out! Wreaths and decorated trees fill homes and public spaces, and the fallen leaves on deciduous trees makes conifers even more prominent in our Minnesota forests. This is a great season for growing sprouts and older folks alike to look a little closer at the evergreens around us, to learn which details to look for, and to identify our native trees. It would be quite the challenge to be able to identify all 100+ different species of pine, spruce, and fir trees. For now, let’s look at the big categories and the trees native to Minnesota that we see most often. Let’s ask a series of questions to figure out which evergreen we’re looking at. Q: SINGLE NEEDLES OR BUNDLES? How are needles attached to the branch—in small bundles of 2-5 needles or as single needles? A: BUNDLES. We have a pine tree! There are a few kinds we see a lot of in Minnesota. WHITE PINES have 5 needles in a bundle and are long (3-5”). RED PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are long (4-6”). JACK PINES have 2 needles in a bundle and are short (1-1.5”). A: SINGLES. We have either a spruce or a fir tree. Let’s ask another question. Q: FLAT OR SQUARE? Pluck off a needle and roll it between your fingers. Is it hard to roll because it’s flat, or do you feel slight ridges as it rolls in your fingers because it’s square? A: FLAT. We have a fir tree. Balsam firs are common Minnesota firs. You might remember this by thinking of Fs: firs are flat and friendly (no sharp tips on the needles). A: SQUARE. We have a spruce tree. There are a variety of spruces, but here are three. WHITE SPRUCES have hairless branches. BLACK SPRUCES have tiny red hairs between needles on their branches. BLUE SPRUCES have needles with a slight blue tinge to the color. DO: Nature Walk and Quiz Go for a nature walk and see how many different kinds of evergreens you encounter. Bring back samples of the different needles or needle bundles that you find. Once you know the trees that each needle comes from, quiz another family member or a friend by laying out all your needles on a table. Can they guess correctly? Source: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (1), Valerie Rogotzke (2)

< Back You’ve Cleared the Buckthorn - Now What?? Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Buckthorn! It’s not native to Minnesota but it has made itself quite comfortable here, hasn’t it? Read on, as Dakota County Master Gardener Sarah Heidtke discusses some actions to take for buckthorn management after you’ve cleared this invasive plant species out of your property. You’ve put in the work to clear your property of buckthorn. Congratulations! According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, buckthorn management is going to be a multi-year commitment. Why? Well, viable seeds in the soil can germinated for two years, and additional seeds can come in thanks to birds and other wildlife. Buckthorn freshly cleared The next steps to keep re-infestation of this invasive plant under control fall under three categories: Add more desirable new plants to minimize bare ground where invasive plants can take hold. Manually remove new buckthorn sprouts that come up - especially in the spring when they are easier to pull and again in the fall. Prioritize any berry-producing plants and if you can, work with your neighbors so that they do the same. Use herbicides for larger plants, following all labels and instructions. Buckthorn replacement species Determining what to plant next depends on your site conditions. University of Minnesota’s May 2024 “A guide to forest understory revegetation to help manage buckthorn and other invasive plants,” offers some great advice and a list of seed mix retailers. The goal is to out-compete new buckthorn sprouts, so seeding soon after large buckthorn removal is best. If the tree canopy has at least 10% of visible sky looking up from the ground, cool season grasses and wildflower seeds can germinate and grow quickly, making it harder for new buckthorn seeds to sprout. More shade-tolerant wildflowers can help suppress buckthorn in darker wooded areas, but you’ll need to be diligent about pulling buckthorn sprouts while the native plants get established. Native shrubs such as high-bush cranberry, nannyberry, chokecherry, pagoda dogwood, gray dogwood, elderberry, American hazelnut and black chokeberry are all identified by the University of Minnesota as healthy replacements for buckthorn. Buckthorn sky canopy Keep removing new buckthorn plants! Once all buckthorn has been cleared from your land, plan on walking your property to find and pull new buckthorn plants. The best time to find buckthorn is fall and early spring, when most plants other than buckthorn will be without leaves (MN DNR). Prioritize removing all of the berry-producing vegetation, in order to limit the ability of the buckthorn to expand. If the plant is too big to pull, the MN DNR suggests cutting the plant a few inches above the soil, and then preventing photosynthesis by either covering the stump with a can or dark bag or leaving a higher stump and continually removing any new green sprouts. See more instructions here . Buckthorn sprouts There are times when some property owners consider chemical herbicides as the best option for larger plants. Mid to late fall is ideal for applying herbicide, as the plant's sap flows toward the roots, allowing for maximum absorption. Since buckthorn keeps its leaves longer than most plants, you can minimize harm to other species that are dormant for winter (UMN Extension). Always follow product labels for safety and application directions. The label is the law. For more information on best practices for herbicide application, please refer to UMN Extension here: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/fall-good-time-remove-buckthorn . If you are treating near water, the MN DNR requests that you first contact the aquatic pesticide enforcement specialist for advice on less harmful herbicides for aquatic species. Buckthorn management is both a continual task and a community effort. Several cities in Dakota County also offer resources: Eagan https://cityofeagan.com/buckthorn Apple Valley https://www.applevalleymn.gov/679/Buckthorn Burnsville https://burnsvillemn.gov/818/Buckthorn Mendota Heights https://mendotaheightsmn.gov/537/Buckthorn-Removal Farmington https://cityoffarmington.hosted.civiclive.com/government/departments/natural_resources/weeds___plants/buckthorn Additional online references: https://mitppc.umn.edu/sites/mitppc.umn.edu/files/2024-06/Guide-to-forest-understory-revegetation-buckthorn-2024_3.pdf Buckthorn management does take commitment but know that you are building a healthier environment and growing some lovely plants in its place. Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,4), University of Minnesota (3), Michael Schuster, PhD University of Minnesota (4)

< Back Lavender Gail Maifeld, Master Gardener With its silvery-green foliage, upright flowers and compact form, lavender is an ideal addition to any garden. You can harvest it for fragrant flower arrangements, culinary uses, sachets and potpourri. Read this article for some tips on growing lavender in Minnesota. Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia) is a cutting gardener’s favorite that combines function and beauty. The distinctive fragrance and attractive foliage make lavender a companion plant for a rose garden by covering the lower rosebush canes. Essential oils are said to revive the spirits and fragrant blooms are said to have a calming effect. It has been a difficult plant to grow in zone 4 despite the alkaline soil that lavender prefers. Lavender often died in Minnesota until new research from the Chicago Botanic Garden Plant Trials (2017) showed which varieties are hardy in their USDA Zone 5 conditions. Based on an evaluation process the following seven types are hardy in zones 4 and 5: Imperial Gem, Royal Velvet, Munstead, Super Blue, Jean Davis, Niko, and Sharon Roberts. With a winter mulch of chopped leaves plus some topsoil, to keep the leaves in place, gardeners in the Twin Cities metro area have been successful with the Munstead variety. Ideally 2 feet of snow will protect the plant, also. Growing lavender in this area requires full sun, and well-drained soil—gravelly or sandy soils are ideal. Growers should plant early in the spring to allow for the longest growing season. Maintenance needs are few since lavenders do not need irrigation or fertilizer. Deadheading is the gardener’s choice but it will keep the plant neat looking. Cut the plant back one-third after blooming. Do not cut back to the ground in the fall. The gardener may need to trim the branches in the spring for reshaping. Natural oils of the lavender plant repel most grazing animals such as deer and rabbits. The fragrant blooms may be harvested and dried to make fragrant lavender pockets for sweaters or the lingerie drawer. Other uses include baking, teas, a drop in an infuser, or drop on a pillowcase to improve sleep quality. References Chevallier, Andrew. Herbal Remedies. Easy-to-Use Visual Reference Guide. Lavenders for Northern Gardens, Richard G. Hawke , Plant Evaluation Manager and Associate Scientist, Chicago Botanical Gardens. 2017. Good Lavenders for the North! Mary H. Meyer, Extension Horticulturist and Professor. Extension.umn.edu Photo Credit: Gail Maifeld (1,2,3)

< Back Healthy Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Believe it or not, fall is the best time to repair your existing lawn. And, with climate weather changes, it is also a good time to consider what type of lawn you want to have in the future. Sometimes it can be perplexing as to where to begin. If you are interested in lawn care, please read this article. With climate change, doing the same lawn care, may not yield the same results. The first step is to evaluate your existing yard. Evaluate your existing yard status. What type of soil do you have? Through the U of MN Extension, you can get a soil text. See this website for details. https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden Are some areas of your lawn difficult to mow because they are on a slope? Should you consider replacing this part of the lawn into a pollinator garden with some shrubs and/or pollinator flowers or create a no-mow bee lawn? What type of sun do you have on the various areas of your lawn? There are grass seed mixes for Shade, Part-Sun, and Sunny areas. Not all grass seed works for every section of your yard. Many nurseries have various seed mixes available for sale. Prior to spending money on seed, take stock as to what type of sun/shade is in each area and measure the dimensions so you know how much seed to buy. If you are renovating areas of your yard, question why the existing grass did not thrive? Shady areas especially dense shade is hard to maintain grass. Fine fescue grasses work best in shady areas, but if it is really dense, even that may not grow thick. Another option is to create a pathway and plant some native shade plants instead of having a lawn. You can even consider sedges. What areas of your yard get walked on a lot or have damage from pets? The type of grass mix you put down can make a difference for those areas. Critters such as voles and moles can be a lawn culprit. For more info about voles/moles, go to this link. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage Do you have areas of your yard that get excessive salt from the road or driveway? You may need to prep the soil differently in those areas prior to planting or even consider a rain garden bed in those areas. How much work are you interested in doing to maintain your yard? Watering and mowing are a lot of resources. Should you consider a fine fescue grass mix that uses less water and doesn’t need to be mowed as often or potentially a bee lawn? There are lots of things to consider before starting on your lawn renovation. Sometimes it is easier if you take just a section of your yard at a time. It does not need to be done in one season. The U of MN Extension has a Lawn Care Calendar that focuses on what months are best to plant seeds, when to fertilize, and when to lay down seed. See this link for the calendar. As stated early, late August to Early September is the best time to put down new grass seed if you are starting a new area specially. Spring is the second-best time. But if you are wanting to thicken or repair your lawn, putting down seed in late October to November (once it is too cold for grass to germinate) is great for dormant seeding. Preparing the soil for lawn repair. Does your grass have an excessive amount of dead grass called thatch that is killing the grass? If so, it might need to be dethatched before applying new seed. Grass seed has to have contact with the dirt to be successful in germination. Dethatching machines can be rented for large areas. Hand raking works for small repairs. If you have clay soil, sometimes, you need to consider aerating your lawn on a periodic basis (annually or every few years). This can be done by renting a machine that will remove soil plugs from your lawn. Once the lawn has been prepped, laying down seed is the next step. Seeding in late August to September requires consistent watering when the soil is dry (several times a day). Dormant seeding in November does not require watering. The seed will germinate in early Spring. Purchasing sod is another option for new lawns especially but is more expensive and still requires consistent watering in the early stages. There are many things to consider with lawn care maintenance and repair. This website has additional information if you are interested in learning more. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension 1,2,3,4

< Back Create Frozen Luminarias Marjory Blare, Master Gardeners Frozen luminaries are both fun and beautiful to create. This article will give you suggestions on using materials you may have around the house and in your winter garden to create a frozen luminary. Here are two easy winter crafts that you can do with your little ones! Frozen Luminarias You will need: A large shallow container, at least 3” deep, perhaps 18”x14” or so. Vegetation; weeds, twigs, leaves, evergreen cuttings and so on. A pitcher or bucket to pour water into your container A tea candle or an electric candle in a mason jar. (If you choose a real candle you will also need a long lighter such as you would use for a grill. After making sure the candle is firmly fixed in the bottom of the jar, tip it sideways to light.) Make sure you take pictures of the process! Kids enjoy helping to collect the weeds. Cut them a bit longer than your container. Look for bold contrasting shapes. Colors are a bonus but not required. A monochromatic palette also creates beautiful results. Have your child arrange the various pieces in the shallow container. You might have them choose three long pieces, five medium pieces and seven or more short pieces. Cut them to fit the container. Odd numbers of pieces generally result in a pleasing composition. It can be easy to put too much into the container: you want light to be able to show through the finished composition. Don't worry about having the bottom edge all neat, this part will be buried in the snow. Gently pour about two to three inches of water over the vegetation and press down anything that floats, trying to keep them mostly below the surface. You may want to do this yourself, or make sure if your child spills, you've got a towel under it. Letting it soak indoors for a day before putting it outside can help the vegetation become waterlogged and submerge better. Put the container outdoors in a place where snow and/or other debris can't get into it, or alternately, cover it. Don't move it again until it's frozen solid or you will get cracks and air in it. After it's frozen solid, gently tap the frozen piece out of the container. Set it upright in a snow bank, packing snow at the base to help hold it upright. You can place it so that sun streams through it during the day or wait until dark, then light and place the candle behind your frozen weeds. Stand back and admire! Weeds and Buckets You will need: one or more buckets Vegetation, as above. You can use much larger and longer pieces of vegetation.- Enough water to fill the buckets about 4-5" deep. Place the tallest pieces in first, then medium, and finally the shortest pieces around the outside. You will need enough of the shorter pieces to hold the taller pieces upright, although some graceful arching is very pleasing too. Allow the water to freeze and then gently tap to remove. Place on your front porch or wherever you'd like decorations. Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back Red Pine (Pinus resinosa): Star of the North Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener What tree is as Minnesotan as hot dish or dessert bars? It’s red pine, of course. This state tree is not for the small lot but will be a striking addition to the larger lot or farmstead. Read more about this stately native in this article, the last of Jim Lakin’s series on native trees for Minnesota gardeners. It’s the state tree of L‘Étoile du Nord , which, of course, is the state motto of Minnesota. Indeed, red pine is as Minnesotan as hot dish and dessert bars. So where does this venerable conifer fit into the landscaping picture? It probably is not the best choice for a small lot, growing 65 to 115 feet in height with about a 3-foot trunk. In larger lots or farmsteads, however, stands of the tree it can make a striking addition or serve as an admirable windbreak. It is native to the Upper Midwest with a range from Newfoundland west to Manitoba and south to Pennsylvania with populations down the Appalachian mountain range. It is sometimes called “Norway pine.” It is hypothesized that this name came from early Norwegian settlers mistaking it for the Scotch pine found back home. At least that’s what the Swedes say! a stand of red pine Red pine grows in full sunlight, shooting up straight and true. This growth feature made it especially attractive to lumbermen of the early 19 th century, leading to the great lumber baron fortunes of that period (and the despoliation of countless acres of Minnesota woodland). Interestingly, red pine is self-pruning. Thus, you don’t see dead branches below the canopy in forests. The needles are long, dark yellow-green and brittle. Pine cones are classic 1 ½ to 3 ½ inch long and broad. The bark forms reddish-brown plates as the tree matures; thus, the name red pine. reddish brown bark of red pine In sighting red pine, be aware that you may get by with part sun, but it is quite intolerant of full shade. It is hardy from Zones 2 through 5, so that means all of Minnesota. It will grow on nutrient-poor, sandy soil unfavorable to most species. It likes average moisture in well-drained loam. Although it is grown, plantation style in straight rows for the lumber industry, red pine is also abundant in our northern forests. It serves as nesting habitat for eagles as well as other birds. In cold, northern climates, red pine has few problems. However, in warmer climates as seen in the southern part of the state, it may fall prey to a number of insect pests and diseases. Needle cast, needle blight, root rots, bark cancer and rusts may be issues. Budworms, sawflies, pine beetles, tussock moth and pine needle miners can plague the tree. red pine cone So, if you have the appropriate site, consider red pine. A healthy, established stand will be a stately joy for many years. Life spans up to 500 years have been reported for this hardy Star of the North! Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1-3)

< Back Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels sprouts need a northern garden environment to thrive. Cool autumn air and frost intensifies the sugars in the sprouts, enhancing their flavor. This characteristic means that brussels sprouts are often the last plants standing in a Minnesota garden. Read on to learn more about Brussels sprouts and discover the best way to care for sprouts from late summer through harvest. Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels Sprout Heritage Brussels sprouts are part of the Brassica oleracea family (generally called “mustards”) that also includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and collard greens. They are believed to be descended from wild Mediterranean kale grown in ancient Rome. Brussels sprouts, as the little baby cabbage vegetable we know today, were developed in the vicinity of Brussels, Belgium in the 13th century, becoming popular there in the 16th century. It took another two centuries for European settlers to introduce Brussels sprouts to North America in the 18th century and another couple of centuries to establish Brussels sprouts as a viable large-scale commercial crop in California in the 1900s. Today, the U.S. produces about 70 million pounds of Brussels sprouts annually. Brussels sprouts have been cultivated and improved in the last century. Sprouts as we know them today have been bred to have higher sugar content and lower glucosinolates (i.e. sulfur smell, bitterness), making them a more appealing vegetable for the American palate. Brussels sprouts are now often found in high-end restaurants served as an appetizer, in salads or as a side dish. Late Season Care Brussels sprouts may remain in the garden through October and possibly into early December in a mild winter year. Brussels sprouts will readily survive in temperatures as low as 20 degrees but will die out when temperatures drop to 10 degrees or lower. In fact, Brussels sprouts need one or two frosty mornings before harvest to reduce any bitter flavors and concentrate the sugars in the sprouts. To keep your Brussels sprouts healthy during the late season, follow these gardening tips: Stop Fertilizing. Do not fertilize Brussels sprouts after the sprouts have started to grow in mid-summer. You will see the sprouts growing on the stalk of the plant next to the leaf stems. Mulch. Add a fresh layer of mulch around the plants to keep the ground temperature and moisture more uniform. Leave about a 3” ring of clear ground around the stalks to reduce the chance of rot. Water. Continue to water the Brussels sprouts plants until harvest. Generally, Brussels sprouts need about an inch of water per week. However, the ground may retain water longer during cool weather so it is good to check if water is needed before watering. If the top one to three inches are dry when you poke your finger into the soil, then add water. Water around the base of the plant and avoid watering the leaves which could encourage disease. Stake. Healthy Brussels sprouts will continue to grow taller and develop more sprouts along the newer stalks throughout the long growing season. Therefore, consider staking the plants in the autumn. Staking will help support the weight of the growing sprouts. Staking will also promote air flow which can reduce the chances of disease. Trim. Commercial farmers trim leaves from Brussels sprout plants to concentrate the growth into the sprouts. While this action is not necessary for the home gardener, trimming leaves will improve airflow and may encourage sprout growth. Start by trimming the bottom 6-8 leaves and any yellowing leaves. An additional 2-3 lower leaves may be trimmed each week to allow room for the sprouts that intersect those leaf stems to grow. Be sure to keep the largest and healthiest leaves at the top of the plant since they are needed to feed the plant. Top Off. Brussels sprouts mature from the bottom of the stalk upwards – i.e. the sprouts at the bottom will be larger than the sprouts at the top of the plant. To encourage the upper sprouts to develop faster, you can cut the off the top 2” to 5” of the main stalk. Top off Brussels sprouts 20 to 45 days prior to final harvest (usually end of August or mid-September in Minnesota). Wrap. If you want to keep Brussels sprouts happy through a few freeze/thaw cycles, you could build a burlap-wrapped structure around the plants. This protection may help when night temperatures dip into the 20s, but the structure will not keep the plants alive during a longer stretch of harsher winter weather. Observe. Brussels sprouts will send you signals if they are not healthy. The plants may wilt or turn yellow during an autumn heat wave. Leaves may yellow and the plants may bolt if the plants are overwatered. Alternatively, brown spots and edges may develop on the leaves or sprouts if the plants are too cold. The newest growth will usually show signs of stress first. Be prepared to adjust your care and possibly your harvest time to accommodate the plants’ conditions. Harvesting and Storage Brussels sprouts are ready to harvest when the sprouts are solid, bright green, 1-2 inches in diameter and tightly wrapped. Most of the leaves should still be green; do not wait until the leaves have turned yellow or are dying. In addition, the plants will be 2-3 feet tall and approximately 80-100 days old depending on the variety (check the seed package). Wait to harvest until after one or more light frosts which will improve the flavor of the Brussels sprouts. Generally, Brussels sprouts are harvested mid-September to late October in Minnesota. A healthy Brussels sprout plant will yield between 60 and 100 sprouts. Partial Harvest. Brussels sprouts start losing their flavor within a day or two of being picked. You can retain the fresh flavor of the Brussels sprouts over a longer period by picking only some of the sprouts while maintaining the plants in the garden. The plants will continue to grow and produce more sprouts on the new growth until the plants are topped off. Harvest the sprouts near the bottom of the plant first. To pick a sprout, hold the sprout where it meets the stalk and quickly twist the sprout to snap it off. Alternatively, you can cut the sprout off the stalk with a knife. Remove the leaves left on the stalk near the sprouts you picked. Dispose of any yellow, brown or squishy sprouts and leaves. Dust off the sprouts but do not wash the sprouts before storing. Store the sprouts in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator where sprouts should last for a week or more. Alternatively, sprouts may be blanched and frozen for up to a year. Complete Harvest. Harvest the entire Brussels sprouts plant when the temperature drops below 25 degrees on a regular basis. To harvest, remove all remaining leaves and then cut the entire stalk one inch above the soil line. Leave the healthy sprouts on the stalk but remove any sprouts that are discolored or show signs of rot. Hang or stack the stalks in a cold storage area (e.g. garage, cellar or refrigerator). A harvested stalk can be stored for 3 to 5 weeks at 32 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, 32o is the temperature that keeps sprouts the freshest for the longest in storage or the garden. Avoid storing Brussels sprouts with apples, pears, or other fruits which will increase the sprouts’ bitter flavors. After the Brussels sprout harvest is complete, it is best to remove the entire plant from the garden. The plants may be composted or burned. Remember to rotate crops in next year’s garden; a 3-4 year rotation is recommended for all members of the Brassica oleracea family. Then, pull out one of your favorite Brussels sprouts recipes and enjoy! If you want to learn more about growing Brussels sprouts, please visit: https:/ extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts#direct-seeding-229361 http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-brussels-sprouts-home-garden http://extension.illinois.edu/gardening/brussels-sprouts http://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/brusselsprout2011.pdf http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/fascinating-facts-brussels#:~:text=The%20precursors%20to%20modern%20Brussels,crop%20in%20the%2016th%20century . Photo credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Mollsmadeleine.blogsport.com (2)

< Back Cooking with Frozen Vegetables (And a St. Patrick’s Day Nod) Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s not too early to order seeds for your vegetable garden this summer but first, you need to use up all those vegetables left over from last summer that are sitting in your freezer. Joy Johnson’s Minestrone soup will help you do just that. Add some Irish soda bread for a great St. Patrick’s Day meal. The ground is still frozen in Dakota County and I don’t have anything growing in my garden. However, I have received some seed catalogs already and I’ve even seen a rack of seed packets for sale at the store. You may be thinking about starting some vegetable plants early indoors. It’s always so fun to see the little seedlings sprout. I just realized that if I’m going to grow more vegetables this year, I need to clean out my freezer and use all the ones I froze last year. I have been using my frozen produce all winter long, see my past recipes! But I do still have a variety of veggies in my freezer. I like to cook in large batches so I have food to share with other family members, or just so I don’t have to cook for a few days, and we can live on leftovers. I have a recipe that I’ve been making for years that uses my frozen veggie stash and makes plenty to share. A bonus – everyone who has eaten it has loved it. The recipe is flexible, so if you don’t have one of the veggies, or you want to add in something that is not listed, feel free to experiment. This recipe is from The Saint Paul Farmers Market Produce Cookbook. Minestrone Soup 6 cups beef broth 1 (15 oz.) can great northern, cannellini or lima beans 1 large potato, peeled and dices 2 carrots, sliced 2 ribs celery, sliced 1 white or yellow onion, chopped 1 small green pepper, chopped 1 tbsp olive oil 1 ½ cups green cabbage, chopped 1 cup zucchini, cubed 1 cup green beans, cut in 1-inch lengths ½ lb. spinach or Swiss chard, chopped 3 cups Italian plum tomatoes, chopped ½ cup small shell macaroni or other pasta, uncooked ½ tsp each dried oregano and rosemary (or 1 tsp. each, fresh or frozen, chopped) 1 tsp dried basil (or 2 tsp fresh or frozen chopped) 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper Grated Parmesan cheese In a large stockpot, bring beef broth to a boil. Add cannellini beans, potato, carrots and celery. Simmer 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a skillet and sauté onion, garlic and green pepper for 5 minutes. (If using frozen peppers, no need to sauté). Add to broth mixture and simmer another 15 minutes. Add cabbage, zucchini, green beans, and spinach or Swiss chard. Simmer 10 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes, pasta, oregano, rosemary, basil, salt and pepper. Simmer another 15 minutes or until pasta is cooked. Serve sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. Makes 15 servings. A bread that goes well with Minestrone, and gives a nod to Saint Patrick’s Day, is Irish Soda Bread. The recipe that I’m sharing with you here is an authentic Irish recipe. My elderly neighbor who is 100% Irish has verified that it is a true Irish soda bread because it has raisins and caraway seeds. Irish Soda Bread 3 ½ cups flour 2/3 cup sugar 1 tsp salt 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp baking powder 1 ½ cup raisins Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. In a separate bowl mix together these wet ingredients: 1 1/3 cups buttermilk 2 eggs beaten 4 Tbsp melted butter ½ tsp vanilla 1 Tbsp vanilla 1 Tbsp carraway seeds Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix until well blended. Grease and flour baking dish. I use an actual Irish soda bread pan, it’s like a 9” round cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 50-60 minutes. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons (1) & Flickr (2)

< Back New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus): A Short Showy Shrub Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) is in no way related to Earl Grey or the American mafia. Read this article about how this hardy, long-lived native perennial shrub got its name. Continue reading to learn more about this native shrub’s attributes and how to use New Jersey Tea in your garden. New Jersey Tea ( Ceanothus americanus ) is in no way related to Earl Grey or the American mafia. Its curious name was coined during the American Revolution when its leaves were used as a substitute for the imported English version. Never having tried the concoction, I cannot vouch for either its taste or its safety. I can however, attest to the plant being a hardy, long-lived native perennial shrub. Ceanthus americanus in summer bloom In the wild New Jersey Tea thrives on upland prairies and savannas in full sun to partial shade. It is found throughout eastern and central North America, growing some three feet tall and five wide. Ceanothus americanus is hardy from Zones 3 through 9 so it does well even in Northern Minnesota. It makes an excellent low hedge where privacy is not an issue. New Jersey Tea works especially well on rocky hillsides and slopes. It does require well-drained soil which can be either sandy or loamy. The shrub has a deep tap root which makes it especially drought resistant and low maintenance when established. It is a slow grower, however and will take two to three years to establish itself. Once settled in, New Jersey tea boasts beautifully glossy green leaves topped by frothy white clusters of flowers that adorn the shrub in July and August. Thus, it adds color to the garden at times when not much is otherwise happening. These flowers go on to produce black seed capsules which explode in early fall. The capsule remnants remain on the bush through the winter, adding interest. New Jersey Tea is deciduous and blooms off new wood. Therefore, it can be pruned back in the fall or early spring, if desired. I prefer, however, to leave it in its natural state. Ceanothus americanus foliage As you might expect from such a ubiquitous native perennial, it is quite pollinator friendly. Hummingbirds especially appreciate the smaller insects that are drawn to the summer blooms. It is a host plant for both Spring Azure and Summer Azure butterflies ( Celastrina ladon ) . It is said to be deer resistant although other sources state deer use the twigs as a major food source throughout the year. Frankly, most anything is potential chow for Bambi. Since it is slow growing it usually is available in nurseries only in smaller sizes. Be patient, however and you will be richly rewarded by this lovely plant. Photo Credit: US Fish & Wildlife Service (1), Go Botany (2)

< Back Pumpkin Power: Creative Uses for October’s Harvest Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but as an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes and a great natural fertilizer! Read this article for more information about how to use the familiar and fun pumpkin. Pumpkins, a late season squash, have become a commonplace symbol of fall. You’ll know it's that time of year again once supermarkets and farmers markets start to showcase the iconic orange fruit. Unknown to most, the pumpkin is considered a winter squash and is also considered a modified berry known as a pepo like cucumbers and watermelons. This autumnal squash is known for its utility as not just a fun DIY arts and craft, but also can be promoted as a great natural fertilizer, and an ingredient for savory and sweet fall-based recipes! Crafting and Decor: DIY Projects for Fall Everyone knows the most common use for a pumpkin in the fall: carving! A tradition in my household, this activity can be done with the whole family, and each person can personalize them by carving them however they see fit. There are entire websites just dedicated to helping provide ideas for pumpkin carving . Don't forget a candle! If carving isn't your cup of tea, there are also a multitude of no-carve options for turning a pumpkin into a simple art project! Get some paint or markers and turn that crazy berry into a work of art! Whether it's glow in the dark paint , artistic interpretations of woodland creatures , or even stained glass . I know I’m excited to try my hand at hand painted florals , and faux gold paint ! A few eco-friendly options for this seasonal gourd are turning them into bird feeders or even compostable plant pots ! Culinary Uses: Delicious Dishes to Try Pumpkins are great as they are not only good for decorations, but also amazing in cooked dishes and baked goods too. One significant savory pumpkin-based dish is pumpkin soup , that uses broth, cream, and your choice of spices to season. If you have more of a sweet tooth, my favorite thanksgiving recipe is a simple no bake pumpkin pie . Try to use all parts of the pumpkin! The pumpkin flesh, or rind, can be made into great chips ! Pumpkin seeds are also multitudinous, with each pumpkin containing up to 500 seeds. The seeds can also be baked , and they are a great source of protein and iron. My favorite receipt involves coating the seeds in a fine layer of sea salt for a salty snack! Pumpkin in the Garden: A Natural Fertilizer Lastly, as the season comes to a close, pumpkins are one of the first signs that winter is coming, as their decay is coming fast. As these fall icons start to decline, the best thing you can do may also be the best thing for your garden: Compost! You can use a knife or shovel (or even sledgehammer) to break the pumpkins down. Once the pumpkin is into pieces, you can slightly bury the pieces and cover with newspaper and soil (to prevent pests), or allow them to compost in your own compost pile. If you are going to return them to the soil, make sure to remove any decorations and wax, and also ensure to do your best to remove seeds fully or else you may end up with some unwanted sprouts come spring. If your pumpkins are painted or decorated with any kind of marker, sadly composting is not the best option as this can contaminate the soil. Do your best to use what you can, and your garden and yard will thank you. Pumpkins are a foundation of fall and starting your traditions with your family can make the season that much more fun! Try any of the tips and this article to improve your kitchen, gardens, and crafts. Photo credit: www.publicdomainpictures.net (1), Logan Caola (2), flickr.com (3), wikimedia.com (4)

< Back Bitter Melon – The Bumpy, Spiky Gourd Loved ‘Round the Sub-Tropical World’ How about growing “bitter melon” for a change of pace. You may not be familiar with this vegetable as it is more widely grown in the tropics and subtropics. But bitter melon can be grown in Minnesota and has many health benefits. Read on to learn more about how to grow this lesser-known vegetable and when you are finished, read the Garden to Kitchen article about how to use bitter melon. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Bitter melon, also known as bitter squash, bitter apple, bitter gourd, balsam-pear, and many other non-English names, is a widely grown vegetable, especially in the tropics and sub-tropics. It is classified in the Momordia genus within the Cucurbitaceae family and is indeed shaped much like the cucumber you may have growing in your backyard garden. Depending on the species grown though, its exterior may be light green and bumpy or warty-looking (for the longer “Chinese” type) or darker green and spiky-looking (shorter “Indian” type). The cold weather-sensitive bitter melon plant will grow as a perennial in growing zones 9-11 but will thrive only as an annual in Minnesota during hot, humid months in full sun. Seeds should be started indoors 4 weeks before the last frost date and planted outdoors into warm, compost-rich soil or into a container. Seeds can also be sown directly into warm soil, however, getting these seeds to germinate can test the patience of any earnest Minnesota gardener. A helpful and quicker germination method involves wrapping the seeds in a damp paper towel on a shallow plate over a seedling heat mat. This process may take up to 7 days and nights, depending on the age of the seeds, but usually results in tiny shoots growing quickly inside the paper towel. Using this method may also require hardening off to prevent shock from temperature changes. At planting, trellis support should be provided. The bitter melon plant will produce long, light green vines with deep green, multi-lobed leaves and curly tendrils that appear delicate, but keep a tight grip on nearly anything within reach. 3 to 4 weeks after planting, the plants will produce bright yellow flowers; the male flowers appearing before the female flowers. Soil should be kept moist throughout the growing season, but not soaked. Momordia species can thrive on compost from household scraps but would otherwise benefit from a biweekly feeding of 5-10-10 slow-release fertilizer. Two-three weeks after flower drop, female flowers will produce fully grown fruits. Chinese type bitter melons measure 6-10 inches in length and Indian type fruits will grow to an average of 4-8 inches. As with any vegetable, it can be tempting to see how large they will grow, but if left on the vine too long, bitter melons will overripen, burst open and release their seeds. The best indication of harvest readiness is the color of the fruit’s exterior. Bitter melons should be harvested before their skin turns yellow. For ideas about how bitter melons are eaten, click on the Garden to Kitchen article! Photo Credits: Anita Oakman 1, 3 Rawpixel (all creative commons) 2