< Back Pussytoes (Antennaria sp.) for Tough Growing Sites Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Pussytoes is a cute name for a sturdy native plant. If you are looking for a tough, resilient groundcover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennarias (Pussytoes). The genus Antennaria boasts dozens of species native to the temperate regions of the Northern hemisphere. Here in the Northern Midwest, we have two commonly found species: Antennaria neglecta or Lesser Pussytoes and Antennaria plantaginifolia or Plantain-Leafed Pussytoes. Together these two fellows provide great ground covers for various environments where most other plants fear to tread. Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) in spring, with flower buds The Pussytoes derive their name from the silky white flowers which form in tight clusters that resemble a cat’s toe. The plants are dioecious (either male or female). Male plants’ flowers disintegrate rapidly but the female plants’ blooms are longer lived being supplemented by a tuft of awned fruits that look frothy when ripe. Lesser or Field Pussytoes ( Antennaria neglecta ) are found in dry prairies, savannas and open woodlands in difficult, often eroded areas where little else will grow. Thus, they can compete in spite of their small stature. Their basal leaves are only some 3 inches tall and the flower spikes grow to no more than 8 inches. They do well in dry, hot areas with full sun. They are ideal for so-called “hell strips” between urban sidewalks and streets. They spread by rhizomes into masses several feet in width. If you want to increase your plantings, they are easily propagated by division. In contrast, Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes ( Antennaria plantaginifolia ) grows better with more shade than does Lesser Pussytoes. It does just fine in a shady moist area. As a matter of fact, its leaves may burn if the plant is in a location that is too sunny, too dry or too hot. Like Lesser Pussytoes, it will densely cover ground prone to erosion. Its leaves are wider with three noticeable veins. It does bear a resemblance to plantain, a not so popular addition to many suburban lawns. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes also spread by rhizomes and can be propagated by division or grown from seed. Plantain-Leaved Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) So, if you are looking for a tough, resilient ground cover for those difficult areas, consider one of the Antennaria . Photo Credit: flickr.com (1) & gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org (2)

< Back Missouri Gourd (Cucurbita foetidissima): Beautiful but Tough Missouri gourd – a gourd of many names is an interesting and unusual vine. As this article explains, Missouri gourd has many advantages as a ground cover or climbing vine. As an added bonus, the vine produces a beautiful flower and edible fruit. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As best one can tell, Missouri gourd probably started out as native to the Flint Hills and Osage Plains of Kansas, naturalizing both southwestward, eastward and northward into Iowa, Kentucky, Michigan, Ohio and southern Minnesota. It’s also known as calabazilla, chilicote, coyote gourd, fetid gourd, wild gourd, wild pumpkin and buffalo gourd. Indeed, it has the toughness of bison. Although most widespread in the Southwest of the US and northern Mexico it will grow in most any climate boasting seven to nine months of warm weather. A member of the cucumber family, this guy is remarkably tolerant of dry, poor soil. Thus, it becomes an ideal ground cover for those areas of the property where not much of anything will grow. It will sprawl or climb a fence or trellis with vigor. It also is quite handy on banks susceptible to erosion. Once established, the vine will produce large showy orange to yellow flowers in summer, reminiscent of squash blossoms. As you might guess from its relatives, Missouri gourd will produce small gourd like fruit, looking like mini watermelons. They can be quite decorative in the fall. Photo Credit: Wikipedia Missouri gourd flower in summer The plant is edible, although you have to boil the fruit when it is very young. As it matures, it becomes quite bitter. The flowers are also bitter. You might give the seeds a try, although be sure to boil or roast them before you dig in. In addition to being a food source for Native Americans, the gourd is traditionally used to make musical instruments, particularly rattles. You might try drying out a gourd to make an interesting winter project! Photo Credit: Charles Clark, Wikipedia small melon-like fruit So, if you are looking for a reliable ground cover for difficult soil which will reward you with stunningly golden flowers and decorative fall melons, consider Missouri gourd. Photo Credits: Charles Clark, Wikipedia (1), Wikipedia (2)

< Back Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata): A Beautiful Bark and no Bite Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Shagbark Hickory is a striking tree, native to the Upper East coast and Midwest. It can be a bit “goofy-looking” with is rough peeling bark. Yet it is a huge, long-lived, strong specimen that you might consider for your yard – or just appreciate it when you see it. This article tells you more about this special Minnesota native. We have a mature shagbark hickory just to the right of our garage. He greets me every time I come home. He’s a bit goofy looking, clothed in pealing bark, yet oddly beautiful as the light and shadows play on the trunk. Shagbark hickory is native to the Upper East coast and Midwest. It is found in southeastern Minnesota, although it will do well throughout zone 4. Carya ovata is also called scaly bark hickory , Carolina hickory , upland hickory and shellbark hickory . These guys can get really big, up to 100 feet, and can live for 350 years. So, plan your planting placement carefully. As it has a long central taproot, it does not transplant easily - another problem for nursery growers. Bark of a mature Carya ovata As the name implies, mature shagbarks have shaggy bark. Young trees however, have a smooth bark. Be patient. It is a deciduous tree, starting to form nuts at about 10 years of age although large amounts aren’t seen until the tree hits age 40. Once it gets in gear, it will continue to produce for as long as 100 years. Unfortunately, it is an erratic producer with generous crops every 3 to 5 years. Thus, although the nuts are tasty, you’ll not see them in commercial production owing to the tree’s erratic crop yields. Shagbark hickory leaves Although you might not find hickory nuts at the store, when they do show up, they are a favorite of a number of species. Shagbark hickory feeds squirrels, mice, chipmunks and raccoons. Bears, foxes and a number of bird species including mallards, wood ducks, bobwhites and wild turkeys feed off shagbark nuts. It is the larval food for the Luna moth, walnut sphinx and also the royal walnut moth whose larval stage is called hickory horned devil. The wood is heavy and very strong and durable, great for woodworking if you’re the patient sort. Shagbark hickory nut Carya ovata prefers a humid climate with full sun. It is however shade tolerant although growth is slowed in such conditions. In general, it is a hardy tree with few pests and is tolerant of a wide range of temperature, although it does best in Zone 4 to 8. It is a slow grower so plan on any plantings as future shade trees. It’s worth the wait! Photo Credit: John B. Wikimedia Commons (1,2), www.forestryimages.org (3)

< Back Holiday Trees Tori Clark, Master Gardener Tis the season. If your holiday decorating includes a fresh cut tree, here are some things to consider before selecting your tree and some tips to ensure it lasts throughout the season. If your holiday decorating includes a fresh cut tree, there are some things to consider before selecting your tree and tips to ensure it lasts throughout the season. Most of the trees you will find at cut-your-own or pre-cut lots will be one of these four types: Fraser fir trees have bright green, flattened needles; ½ to 1 inch long. They have some of the best needle retention and a pleasant scent. Fraser firs have strong branches which angle upward making them a great choice for heavier ornaments. Fraser fir Balsam fir needles tend to be a little longer, about ¾" to 1 ½" . The long-lasting needles are flat and rounded at the tip. These firs have a dark green color and are very fragrant. Balsam fir Scotch pine has very stiff, dark green needles about one inch long. The needles will stay on the tree even when dry. Scotch pine White pines have soft, blue-green needles, 2 to 4 inches long, that will stay on throughout the holiday season. The trees have a full appearance and are best suited to smaller ornaments. White pines have little or no fragrance, but can have less allergic reactions compared to more fragrant trees. White pine Whether you are shopping at a pre-cut tree lot in town or cutting your own, make sure you have a good idea of the height and width the desired spot in your home can accommodate. Also check your tree for freshness. Trees are often cut weeks earlier, so make sure the needles are green and flexible and do not fall off when you run your hand over a branch. If you are not putting your tree up when you bring it home, keep it in a shaded unheated location. A fresh cut to the trunk of your holiday tree will help it last through all of your holiday celebrations so remove 1-2” of the trunk then place the tree in a stand with water. A good quality tree stand will hold one to two gallons of water. Keep it filled with water for a long-lasting tree that is fragrant and doesn’t drop too many needles. Be sure to keep your tree away from heat sources like vents and fireplaces to reduce drying. Look for resources in your community for recycling your tree after the holidays. Photo credits: www.forestryimages.org (1, 2), www.flickr.com (3, 4)

< Back The Label is the Law! Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or, at least, their looks. Your first inclination may be to turn to pesticides. But many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides and other potentially harmful chemical products. This article provides resources, tips and other valuable information that can be helpful in deciding how to handle your garden problems. This is the point in summertime when your plants might be developing fungi or experiencing invasions by harmful insects. You may be asking yourself what you can do to control these unwanted invaders who may be damaging your plants or at least, their looks. Many of these problems can be controlled without using pesticides. There are many resources, including this from the University of Minnesota Extension (UMN), that explain what you can do to avoid using pesticides. The UMN recommends using the integrated pest management (IPM) methods for deciding the proper strategy for your yard. This diagram from the University of Massachusetts explains the IPM method. Pesticides Let’s talk a bit more about pesticides. Pesticide is an umbrella term, it covers insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, bactericides and rodenticides (Rodenticides can also kill animals that feed on the rodents). Pesticides can either kill on contact or after being absorbed into tissues (systemic). Many of the same precautions that are on pesticides are also on fertilizers. Check out the sites from the UMN and University of Massachusetts to learn more about chemical and non-chemical ways to control pests and diseases. Know what you are buying There are many different chemical products on the market, so it is vital to know what you are buying and how to use it. If you decide to use a chemical product, here are some tips and legalities. The label will list the species of plants, fungus, bacteria, rodents or insects it will control. Don’t expect it to kill creeping Charlie if that plant is not listed. Contact products such as insecticidal soaps, and horticultural oil (mineral oil) will only kill the insect if it directly contacts the insect. Systemic insecticides are applied to the plant, and any insect that feeds on the plant will die. There are fungicides and bactericides which protect the plant from diseases. For example, there are injections of a fungicide to protect elms from Dutch Elm Disease, and soil drenches or injections of insecticides to control Emerald Ash Borers. Each pesticide and fertilizer that you use is required to have a label to inform you: What P ersonal P rotective E quipment (PPE) you need to keep yourself safe. This can include but is not limited to; safety goggles, breathing masks, long sleeves and pants, footwear, chemical resistant gloves or even full-body coveralls with hood. The label will explain how to clean up yourself and your equipment after using it. Wash hands before and after going to the toilet. Wash any exposed clothing on the hottest wash cycle. It doesn’t hurt to run the washer through the ‘clean’ cycle afterwards. Proper storage and disposal practices Pay attention to precautionary statements Don’t spray during certain wind conditions and temperature ranges. If the temperature is above say, 80F, a sprayed pesticide can volatilize and drift onto non-targeted plants. If the wind is more than about 2-4 miles/hour, the pesticide can blow onto desirable plants. Don’t spray if rain is expected before the estimated drying time. If it runs off it will not affect the plant or insect, and can contaminate the water supply. Where NOT to apply it, (usually not near bodies of water, because it can be toxic to fish and invertebrates). And directions for use The rate of application. You must measure the area and do the math. How long before re-entry, or replanting. How to apply it, e.g. to the point of run-off, or otherwise. How often to apply it. Organic Pesticides and others Products that are labeled for use on organic produce aren’t always ‘safe’. If not used in accordance with the label they can kill your plants and may harm you and/or the environment. Please read the labels on organic pesticides carefully. The above photos are all from an organic pesticide. Homemade products don’t have labels to tell you how to use them safely. Happy and Safe Gardening this year! Photo Credits: Marjory Blare (1,2,4,5), https://www.umass.edu/agriculture-food-environment/integrated-pest-management/about (3)

< Back Common Milkweed (Asclepius syriaca): An Uncommon Beauty Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener If a plant has adapted to its environment such that it is easily grown, it often suffers the fate of being called “common”. That is a disservice to Asclepius syriaca or “common milkweed”, which is anything but “common”. Indeed, its value to pollinators is uncommonly great. It attracts hordes of butterflies and other pollinators. Read this article to learn more about this important staple in pollinator gardens. Along with closely related members of the family Asclepiadaceae, it is the sole host plant for the imperiled Monarch Butterfly. Asclepius syriaca is a source of food and a host for Monarch larvae and caterpillars. Its late spring to summer flowering presents popcorn balls of fragrant pink-purple blooms which grace any garden. If you’re looking for Asclepius syriaca, you should know that it is also known as silkweed, Virginia silkweed, common silkweed, showy milkweed, cotton weed, wild cotton and swallow-wort. Obviously, it gets around! common milkweed; Photo credit: USDA Common milkweed is native to most of the Eastern and Central North America and is found throughout Minnesota. Its origins in prairies and savannas dictate that it be grown in full sun to, at most, partial shade. Reflecting its prairie origins, it has a long taproot and thus is difficult to transplant. However, it grows easily from seed but can be aggressive in beds. If that is the case, it is easily pulled up and will not regrow from any root left behind. (Would that weeds were that obliging!) As you might imagine, Asclepius syriaca looks best in natural landscapes. In beds it will usually grow to about 3 feet. Without competition in good soil, it can reach 5 or 6 feet. In late spring, common milkweed produces 4-inch-wide balls of flowers, initially pink-purple. As the bloom ages the color gradually transmutes to an orange-pink. The fragrance is pleasant but distinctive. In late summer to fall, the plant will form chubby horn-like seed pods containing copious, fluffy seeds. They will open from early fall to November. If you wish to propagate plants, collect the seeds and give a go at germination. Remember to stratify them by putting them in the fridge in a moist environment for about a month to stimulate germination. I usually put the seeds in with a moist coffee filter in a Ziploc sandwich bag. Then, after a spell in the cold, start them indoors in January. You’ll have some great plants ready to go for spring planting, around May in central Minnesota. So, by all means add a bit of milkweed to your property. Perhaps a Monarch will stop by to say thanks! Seed pods at maturity; Photo credit: Cornell College of Agriculture

< Back From Our House to Yours: Winter Sowing Native Plants for You! Master Gardeners strive to be stewards of the environment. To that end, the Dakota County Master Gardener program seeks ways to support the efforts of community members to practice good gardening in their own yards. Planting native plants in your garden is one of those good gardening practices. To support that practice, the Master Gardeners’ Propagation Team grows native plants from local seeds that you can buy at our annual plant sale in May. In this article, learn how Master Gardeners collect, prepare and grow the native seeds. Marie Stolte, Dakota County Master Gardener Master Gardeners using cleaning boards to clean native seeds Did you know that Dakota County Master Gardeners grow many of the native plants that we offer at our annual Plant Sale? At next year’s sale (on May 16, 2026, at the Western Service Center in Apple Valley from 8 until noon), you will find the 48 types of natives that our Propagation Team is growing this winter. There will also be shrubs, native grasses, and other plants that we obtain from local vendors. Our growing for the Plant Sale actually started in September and October, when we collected ripe native plant seeds from our own gardens. In November, we brought bags of dried seeds to the new Dakota County Parks’ greenhouse in Lebanon Hills Regional Park for cleaning. The Parks graciously allowed our approximately 15 volunteers to use their cleaning boards to crush seed capsules, scrub away the fuzz and chaff, and sieve the seeds. Master Gardeners sorting and cleaning seed It’s a time-consuming process, but important--removing the chaff means the seeds can get better soil contact at planting time. instrument to remove chaff from the seed; seeds in bottom cup are blown to the top of the tube where the lighter chaff is collected in side tubes. Seed sinks to bottom with less chaff Cleaned seeds that need no stratification were placed in envelopes, and are being kept in a cool, dark place until planting time in April. The rest of the seeds that required cold stratification (see Jessie Thompson’s article describing cold stratification in this January issue) for 10, 30, or 60 days went on to a second group of volunteers for winter sowing. Winter sowing is an easy process you can do yourself at home. All it takes is a plastic container that is at least two inches deep, damp potting soil to fill the container, seeds, water, a magic marker, and Mother Nature. Right after we cleaned the seeds in November, our volunteers punched holes in the tops and bottoms of containers that once held lettuce, strawberries, and grapes. Each container was filled with dampened potting soil. We planted the seeds at the proper planting depth. Finally, we labeled each container with the plant’s name and the date those seeds would complete the necessary cold stratification. Three Master Gardeners took all the containers home, watered them deeply, and set them alongside our homes. Mother Nature has taken it from there. The containers behind my garage were exposed to rain in the fall and are now covered with snow. Starting January 15, the first group of native plant seeds will complete cold stratification. More volunteers will take those containers, bring them inside their warm homes, and put them under grow lights. They will keep the seeds watered until they germinate. The little seedlings will keep growing in our homes until they go to the greenhouse for transplanting on April 1. From there, more Master Gardeners will tend to the seedlings and help them grow into healthy, mature plants suitable for our May Plant Sale. Look for more information about our Plant Sale this spring and consider bringing some of these native, home-grown plants for your yard. native Common Ironweed Photo Credits : MB Kufrin (1-3), www.flickr.com (4)

< Back Hum along with HUMMINGBIRDS, NATURE’S FLYING GEMS BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener In 1485, Leonardo da Vinci designed the first helicopter, though it was never built. 454 years passed before Igor Sikorsky finally developed an aircraft that could fly forwards, backward, straight up and straight down, and hover in air. Hummingbirds, meanwhile, have existed on our planet for roughly 42 million years and fossils of these aerial acrobats, dating from 30 – 35 million years ago, were unearthed in Germany in 2004. Those fossils reveal that the early ancestors of these birds, that capture our awe today, also hovered and flew in any direction they pleased. About 12 million years ago, hummingbirds migrated to North America and have evolved into 366 distinct species covering North America, Central America, South America and in the islands of the Caribbean Sea. That’s correct, they are no longer found in Germany. East of the western border of Minnesota, the only hummingbird routinely found is the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird. Migrating from their winter homes in Central America, these tiniest of all birds fly across the eastern coast of Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico, arriving in Minnesota around the 10th of May. The journey to their northern nesting sites may be upwards of 2,000 miles; with wings beating greater than 50 times per second and a heart rate of up to 1,200 beats per minute, it’s not hard to imagine how much energy they require to make such a journey. For this reason, it’s imperative that food for these miniature migrators be available as they arrive. Native plants that bloom in late April to early May are a critical part of the habitat for both those that stay and nest locally as well as those that continue to central Canada. Early season bloomers like Virginia Bluebells, Jacob’s Ladder, Woodland Phlox, Wild Columbine, Beardtongue, Paintbrush flower and Fire Pink, provide the sweet nectar needed to replenish the weight lost on their arduous journey. As spring turns into summer, it’s helpful to have blooming plants like Wild Bergamot, Scarlet Beebalm, Wood Lily, Tall Larkspur, Prairie Blazing Star, Fire Weed and Butterfly Milkweed in your garden to provide the nectar needed to feed the hatchlings. Plants that attract small insects are also helpful as those are the only source of protein for these small creatures. In fall, as the birds prepare to fly 2,000 miles and return to their winter habitat, late season flowers like Orange Jewelweed, Cardinal Flower, Royal Catchfly, and Great Blue Lobelia, will help them ‘carb up’ for the flight back. Additionally, as the hummers gather nectar from plants, they also perform the duties of pollination in order the insure continued growth of their favorite foods. Of course, it is helpful to supplement their diet by having one or more hummingbird feeders in your yard; especially if you don’t have early season bloomers. When purchasing a feeder, remember that the birds don’t care how fancy it is, but they do care that it is red, that it has a perch so that they may rest while feeding, and that it is easy to clean. The ‘nectar’ is easy to make: one cup of granulated sugar in 4 cups of water is a perfect ratio. NO RED DYE should be added as they are attracted to the feeder, not the food. The water should be changed, and the feeder cleaned with hot soapy water every 3 – 4 days to ensure mold doesn’t grow in their food. Please keep those feeders out until at least late-September to provide a meal to any late-season wayfarers heading south from Canada. West of the Mississippi, you can find other species of Hummers: Allen’s and Anna’s, Black Chinned and Costa’s, as well as the Rufous; many of them stay in their habitat year-round, providing one more reason to escape to warmer climates during our long, cold winters. For few things can stir our imagination and sense of wonder at nature, few things can bring that broad smile to our faces, as seeing this winged marvel: the Hummingbird. References: ● https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/planting-for-hummingbirds ● https://bigthink.com/the-past/da-vinci-helicopter/ ● https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vought-Sikorsky_VS-300 ● https://science.ebird.org/en/status-and trends/species/rthhum/abundance-map ● https://westernhummingbird.org/hummerguide/https://www.allaboutbirds.org/news/summertime-in-the-united-states-of-hummingbirds/# Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . ● https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=astu Photo 1 credit: Nathan Wall / Macaulay Library . Photos 2, 4, 5 - Doug Hansell Photo 3, credit: Audubon 2025 calendar, Corey Raffel

< Back Cold Stratification for Seed Starting Starting seeds indoors can be a rewarding process for home gardeners. It provides a welcome activity as we anticipate the arrival of spring and it can be more cost-effective than purchasing plants. However, not all seeds are ready to sow directly from the packet and may require some extra preparation and time before sowing. Understanding the germination needs for specific plants is very important. By knowing these requirements, gardeners can successfully start seeds indoors and get a head start on the growing season. Read this article to understand how to provide cold stratification for the plants that need it. Jessie Thompson, Dakota County Master Gardener Cold Stratification Starting seeds indoors can be a rewarding process for home gardeners. It provides a welcome activity as we anticipate the arrival of spring and can be more cost-effective than purchasing plants. However, not all seeds are ready to sow directly from the packet and may require some extra preparation and time before sowing. Understanding the germination needs for specific plants is very important. By knowing these requirements, gardeners can successfully start seeds indoors and get a head start on the growing season. This article to explains the process of cold stratification for the plants that need it. Certain seeds, such as Milkweed, Purple Coneflower and Black-Eyed Susan, benefit from a period of cold stratification before planting. Cold stratification is a process where seeds are exposed to moisture and cold temperatures. This helps break their dormancy and promotes successful germination. Purple Coneflower In Minnesota, this process occurs naturally outdoors. Plants produce seeds in late summer, which are then exposed to snow and low temperatures during the winter. As the snow melts and the weather warms in spring, these seeds sprout. This adaptation ensures seeds and plants in areas with cold winters germinate in spring when conditions are optimal for growth instead of prematurely in the fall when new seedlings would be too fragile to survive the winter. Many Minnesota native plants require this cold stratification process to germinate. Home gardeners can mimic these cold, moist conditions indoors using a refrigerator. The length of time required for cold stratification varies by plant species, typically ranging from one to three months. For example, Purple Coneflower seeds require about 60 days of cold treatment. Always consult the seed packet for specific germination instructions, if stratification is needed and recommended time to start seed indoors. If seeds are collected and saved without packaging, be sure to research germination needs for the plant species. The beginning months of the year are an ideal time to begin cold stratification for seeds that require longer periods of cold. Starting early allows seeds to be grown indoors and planted outside in spring after danger of last frost. Artificial Cold Stratification at Home Refrigerator Cold/Moist Stratification Materials needed: Refrigerator, Paper Towel, Resealable Plastic Bag, Permanent Marker, Thermometer (if needed) Moisten a paper towel so it is damp but not soggy. Wring the paper towel out until no excess water drips out. Using paper towel that is too wet can lead to mold. Next, place the seeds in a single layer on half of the paper towel and then fold over other half so that it covers the seeds. Use a permanent marker to label a bag with the plant name, the date started and date to remove from the refrigerator after the amount of time indicated on the seed packet. Then transfer the paper towel and seeds into the bag and seal. Place the bag in the refrigerator at a temperature between 33°F and 40°F. Set a reminder on your phone or calendar for the future date when the seeds should be removed. Check the seeds weekly to monitor the moisture, ensuring that the paper towel does not dry out or has become too wet. If the paper towel is too dry, mist with a spray bottle until damp. If the paper towel is too wet, it could be replaced with a new damp paper towel. If any seeds have sprouted, they can be planted right away into small pots with a seed-starting mix indoors. If the seeds have not sprouted yet, they can be sown into pots once the cold moist stratification period is complete. Visit the University of Minnesota Yard and Garden site for useful tips for starting seeds indoors: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/starting-seeds-indoors#when-to-plant-seeds-1178964 By following these steps and taking the time for artificial cold stratification, you’ll set up your seeds for successful germination. Common Milkweed Sources and for more in-depth reading : 1 . Seed stratification: What seeds require cold treatment. (2022, January 27). Illinois Extension. https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2022-01-27-seed-stratification-what-seeds-require-cold-treatment 2. Capon, B. (2005) Botany for Gardeners 3. Unknown. (n.d.). Native seed propagation methods. https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/Portals/0/Shaw%20Nature%20Reserve/PDFs/horticulture/Propagation.pdf 4. USDA NRCS Elsberry Plant Materials Center, Britton, N., 1913, Brown, N., Henry, J., Bruckerhoff, S., & Kaiser, J. (2003). Plant fact sheet . https://plants.usda.gov/DocumentLibrary/factsheet/pdf/fs_ecpa.pdf Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,4), Jessie Thompson (2,3)

< Back Get to Know Your Good and Bad Weeds We are bringing you a new series this year, “Weed of the Month”. Some months, we’ll highlight a specific weed, show you what it looks like, describe its key characteristics, and methods for managing it. Other months we’ll focus on a special angle about weeds, for example, edible weeds because it turns out that not all weeds are bad! This article provides a very useful set of resources to identify and understand weeds and how you should handle them. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener This month, since weeds are currently dormant, instead of focusing on a specific weed, we’ll introduce you to a valuable resource from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture (MDA) called the Minnesota Noxious Weed List . While there are some ‘good’ weeds, there also are weeds that are more than just a nuisance to the gardener. They actually represent a threat to human or animal health, our eco-systems, crops, livestock, and other property. We all have a role in knowing more about these weeds and the steps to manage or eradicate them. This Noxious Weed website also contains information on how to report noxious weeds to the county, state, or federal agencies responsible for management. Minnesota State Statute, M.S. 18.771 directs the commissioner of MDA to classify these noxious weeds into one of five categories. An overview of the categories is provided below along with a couple of examples of the weeds in that category. We encourage you to visit the link to the noxious weed list provided above to review the tables of noxious weeds and learn more about the specific plants. You may be surprised to see some familiar trees, shrubs, and flowers listed as weeds! Each plant designated as a noxious weed has its own page that includes: Pictures Scientific and common names Legal status Background Description Habitat Means of spread and distribution Impact Prevention and management Toxicity The five categories of noxious weed are: Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds Prohibited Control Noxious Weeds Restricted Noxious Weeds Specially Regulated Plants County Noxious Weeds An additional category exists called Federal Noxious Weeds. The MDA website notes that “federal terrestrial and parasitic listed noxious weeds are prohibited in Minnesota”. These weeds are under the auspices of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and they select and enforce them. You can learn more about the federal weed program at the USDA APHIS website . Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds This weed category includes weeds that must be eradicated across the whole state. These weeds are prohibited from being transported and may not be sold or propagated in Minnesota. Examples of Prohibited Eradicate Noxious Weeds include: Black swallow-wort, Grecian foxglove, and Tree of heaven. Black swallow-wort Prohibited Control Noxious Weeds The weeds in this category must be controlled anywhere they may be found in Minnesota. Like the previous category, these weeds cannot be transported, propagated, or sold. Examples include Canada Thistle, Leafy Spurge, Purple Loosestrife, and Wild Parsnip. Canada Thistle Restricted Noxious Weeds Restricted noxious weeds and their propagating parts are only allowed to be imported, sold, or transported if allowed by permit under section 18.82 . Examples include: crown vetch, Japanese Barberry, Garlic Mustard, and Wild Carrot/Queen Anne’s Lace. Specially Regulated Plants These weeds may be native or nonnative species that have some economic value but may also cause harm in noncontrolled environments. Ecological or economical harm may occur and there are human or animal health concerns. Examples include: Amur Maple, Norway Maple (and all cultivars), and Poison Ivy. Amur Maple County Noxious Weeds Individual county boards may designate plants as noxious weeds and prohibit them within the county’s jurisdiction. However, these designations must be approved by the Commissioner of Agriculture, who consults with the Noxious Weed Advisory Committee. If you are interested in learning more about noxious weeds in Minnesota, you can subscribe to the Noxious Weed of the Month article. Every month, you’ll get an email from the Minnesota Department of Agriculture with information on a noxious weed. To subscribe, Click here to sign up for Weed of the Month emails. We are bringing you a new series this year, “Weed of the Month”. Some months, we’ll highlight a specific weed, show you what it looks like, describe its key characteristics, and methods for managing it. Other months we’ll focus on a special angle about weeds, for example, edible weeds because it turns out that not all weeds are bad! This article provides a very useful set of resources to identify and understand weeds and how you should handle them. Photo credits: Minnesota Department of Agriculture (1,4), University of Minnesota Extension (2), University of Minnesota Extension, Dana Boyle (3)

< Back Making Delicious Meals with Hardy Vegetables Joy Johnson, Master Gardener Master Gardener Joy Johnson is an accomplished vegetable grower but even she struggled this year with the effects of the hot weather and drought on her crops. Still, she offers 4 tried, true and delicious recipes for using the vegetables that were garden champions this year. You will want to read this article for inspiration in the kitchen! It’s the first of August and I’m hoping your garden is flourishing this month. I must tell you, with the drought and the rain and the storms, some of my veggies are doing great and some are struggling along. Gardening is always a gamble, we do our part to plant, weed, fertilize, mulch and water, but sometimes even with all that TLC our veggies might not produce like the seed catalogs promised they would. I consider it a challenge. My garden has thrown down the gauntlet, asking me if I can make something nutritious and delicious with its sometimes-meager offerings. I accept that challenge! Since I like to eat lighter in the summer, I have been focusing on soups and salads. Here are a couple of soup recipes and a colorful salad. The Italian Garden Vegetable Soup is vegetarian and is quick and easy to make. The Zuppa Toscana is my hack of Olive Garden’s soup of the same name. This is a heavier cream-based soup, and makes great use of tons of kale, which you may have in abundance right now! And the Broccoli Slaw is a triumph over critters and heat. This month I also included a Martini drink recipe. My brother and I grow lots of basil and this cocktail that he came up with is a cool, refreshing use of basil. Grapefruit is one my favorite fruits. You can use canned grapefruit juice, but fresh squeezed elevates this cocktail to a gourmet level. Italian Garden Vegetable Soup (makes 6-8 servings) 2 medium zucchinis, sliced 2 medium yellow summer squash, sliced 1 small or medium eggplant, peeled and diced 6 medium tomatoes, diced (whatever variety you grew are fine) 2-4 ears of corn, kernels cut off the cob (steam first, then it’s easier to cut them off) 2 parsnips, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, minced 2 cups veggie broth (store bought or homemade) 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley (dried is fine too. You’ll see I used dried in the photo. My parsley didn’t do well this year, but I have plenty of dried from last year) 1/4-1/2 tsp onion salt Salt and pepper Place all ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to steam vegetable in broth for 10 minutes. Add more salt and pepper if you’d like. Zuppa Toscana (make 8-10 servings) 1 large white onion diced 1 ½ pounds ground Italian sausage. I have a home blend of venison and spicey Italian port sausage that is quite spicey. You can use a mild Italian sausage or a spicier variety depending on how much heat you want. 7 small red potatoes, peeled, quartered, and thinly sliced 2 cups chicken broth 4 cups water 1-2 tsp red chili flakes (don’t use this if you use a spicier sausage) 1 pint whipping cream 1 large bunch of kale, tough stems removed, and leaves chopped Chicken bouillon powder. In a large pot, brown the onion and sausage; drain fat. Add potatoes, broth, water, and chili flakes. Cover pot and bring to a boil for about 20 minutes, until potatoes are tender. Stir in the cream. Soup will thicken the longer you keep it warm and stirred. Mix kale into hot soup for about the last 5 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust seasoning with small addition of bouillon, if desired. Cashew Broccoli Slaw (makes 6 servings) I grew tiny cabbages, a couple of red ones and a couple of green ones (lots of insect damage). But you don’t need a lot to make this tasty salad. My broccoli also didn’t produce much. I consider it a triumph that I can use what I grow to make something good regardless of its quantity or quality. Dressing: 1 cup plain yogurt 1/3 cup sugar 1 T apple cider vinegar In a medium bowl, whisk together yogurt, sugar, and vinegar until smooth. Salad: 1 medium sized head of broccoli, washed, peel the stems and chop 1 small head of red cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 small head of green cabbage, washed and thinly sliced and chopped 1 carrot, grated or julienned ¼ cup garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed ¼ cup chopped green onions 1 cup raisins or craisins 1 cup cashew pieces, salted Add broccoli, cabbage, green onions and raisins/craisins to the bowl. Fold slaw mixture into dressing until evenly coated. Chill until ready to serve. Toss cashews into the salad right before serving. Dale’s Grapefruit-Basil Martini 3 parts fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice 1 part grapefruit vodka (Dale uses Citron – the one with no added sugar) ½ part Elderflower liqueur (Dale uses St. Germain) ½ part fresh lime juice ½ part simple syrup to taste (1 part sugar, 2 parts water) 1-2 springs fresh basil 2-3 drops grapefruit bitters Muddle basil in the grapefruit juice and refrigerate for 24 hours in a Mason jar. Stir or shake periodically. After 24 hours, strain out the basil (a few remaining green flecks are okay). Mix all ingredients in a shaker with ice, shake and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with basil (which really provides more of a basil punch!) Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)

< Back Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera): A Speedy Giant Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener You may not be familiar with the Tulip tree, June’s native tree of the month, because until now our climate was not suitable. Although climate change is an existential threat to our planet, or at least to our species, it has made growing tulip trees a possibility in southern Minnesota and the Twin Cities. Aside from its intriguing name, the Tulip tree has lots attributes that make it an attractive option for your garden. Read this article to learn more. Although climate change is an existential threat to our planet, or at least to our species, it has made growing tulip trees a possibility in southern Minnesota and the Twin Cities (USDA Zone 5). Although native to the Eastern Midwest, it has been planted widely in more western regions and has become a candidate for Minnesota. It is hardy through zone 5 but with a bit of pampering will do all right in Zone 4. Why pamper? Because it is a gorgeous shade tree. In zone 5 or warmer it grows rapidly to 70 to 130 feet with a width of 30 to 60 feet. It then can live on for centuries. In Zone 4 it is a shorter plant but that may not be a drawback. The tulip tree rewards with spring-time flowers that resemble tulips. tulip tree flower It provides generous shade in summer with its smooth green broadly lobed leaves. In fall the tulip tree will put on quite a show with shimmering gold and yellow colors. The native tulip tree is quite pollinator friendly, attracting bees and hummingbirds when flowering. Later in the season, bobwhites, rabbits and squirrels feed on the seeds. Tulip trees are also known as ‘yellow poplar,’ and ‘tulip poplar’ although they are members of the magnolia family, Magnoliaceae. The tulip tree has quite a history. They were popular with early settlers for railroad ties and fence posts because of the strength of the wood. Native Americans as well as Daniel Boone used the wood to construct canoes. tulip tree If you want to give the tulip tree a go, select an area with full sun (at least 6 hours per day). Also, you’ll want a moist soil with good drainage. It is quite pH tolerant doing well in either acid or alkaline conditions although you would do well to amend the soil with quite a bit of compost when planting. It’s okay to plant from spring to late fall. You will want to mulch the roots quite a bit as they are shallow. Also, a growing tree needs lots of water, so keep an eye on it throughout the summer. As these guys get tall quickly, you will want to be careful where you site your specimen. After the first season, you should see rapid growth of a relatively maintenance-free shade tree for you and you family to enjoy for generations. Photo credits: Wikimedia Commons (1,2)