< Back How to Identify Minnesota Native Conifers Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The garden beds are tucked in under an abundant blanket of snow. The wardrobes of the deciduous trees are a distant memory after their yearly fashion show. But for some of us, one of the most beautiful sights this time of year, is the star of the season’s show: the coniferous tree. Most conifers stay green throughout the winter but they are not all the same. It’s February in Minnesota. The dead of winter as they say. The garden beds are tucked in under an abundant blanket of snow. The wardrobes of the deciduous trees are a distant memory after their yearly fashion show. Many having changed from vibrant spring green all the way to the glorious colors of autumn, finally turning brown and floating to the ground to nourish the soil, leaving the trees bare and waiting for the next phase of the cycle to begin again. Many gardeners are dreaming of their favorite plants that will spring back to life again when the warming sun melts away the chill of winter. But for some of us, one of the most beautiful sights this time of year, is the star of the season’s show: the coniferous tree. Though not synonymous with the word evergreen, most conifers in Minnesota do remain green throughout the changing seasons, providing a welcome contrast of color against the white and gray landscape. Note, there are many tropical plants in warmer climates that are evergreens in that they stay green all year, but they are not all conifers. This article will help you identify the lovely conifers native to Minnesota. First of all, it is important to note the difference between conifers and deciduous trees. All trees have leaves, but the leaves of conifers are needles. The other obvious difference is that all conifers have cones to hold their seeds, unlike the various seed covers deciduous trees possess. Many people incorrectly call all cones pinecones, but not all conifers are pine trees. All deciduous trees drop their leaves in winter. It may seem surprising, but conifers lose their needles too. For most conifers, however, it happens over a very long period of time. Rather than drop all of their needles at once like deciduous trees lose their leaves, it may take many years for a conifer to gradually drop and replace all of its needles. There is an exception though, and that is the Tamarack , also known as the eastern or American larch . Each fall, the Tamarack turns a dull yellow in the fall and loses all of its needles just like a deciduous tree loses its leaves. Its cones release tiny winged seeds from its cones which often remain on the tree for years. Tamarack Besides the Tamarack, there are nine other conifers native to Minnesota. They are all true evergreens, slowly changing out their needles over a number of years. Two of the native conifers are cedar trees. One is the eastern red cedar, which is actually a juniper, and the other is the northern white cedar. 1. Eastern red cedar (actually a juniper): The needles on the red cedar are scale-like with four rows lining up along the stem making it appear almost square. Its ¼ inch blue berry-like cone holds one or two seeds that are a bird favorite. Eastern red cedar 2. Northern white cedar : The scale-like needles on the white cedar are arranged in such a way that they appear to form small flat branches. The cones are ½ inch oblong yellowish-brown that grow singly or in clusters at the ends of the branches. Northern white cedar 3. Balsam fir : It is very popular as a holiday tree with its dark green, ½ -1 inch long flat, rounded-tip needles. Its cones are about 3-4 inches long that stand upright on the branches. When it ripens, the seeds fall along with the scales protecting them. What’s left, is the empty inner core of the cone, standing straight up like a spike. Balsam fir 4. Hemlock : The shade-loving hemlock has needles that are about 1/3-2/3 inches long. They are flat and blunt. The cones are ½-3/4 inches long. They hang from the ends of twigs. The hemlock is just barely native to Minnesota, reaching the state up north just south of Lake Superior. Hemlock 5. White Pine : The white pine has 2 ½ - 5 inch long needles that are bluish-green on one side and white-ish on the other side. They grow in bundles of five and they are incredibly soft. The cones are 4-8 inches long. White pine 6. Jack Pine: The jack pine needles are ¾ to 1 ½ inches long that are flat and stubby and grow in bundles of two. The cones are 1 ½ - 2 inches long. They are curved, brown-ish when ripe, and its not uncommon to find ripe seeds on the tree for many years. Jack pine 7. Red Pine (also known as the Norway Pine – the state tree of Minnesota): The 4 - 6 inch long needles of the red pine also grow in clusters of two. If you bend a needle, it makes a clean break. The interesting cones are about 2 inches long and light brown. While they mature and drop their seeds in early fall, the cones remain on the tree until the following spring. Red pine The last two native conifers are the black spruce and the white spruce. Spruce needles are unique in that they are square shaped. You can pull off a singularly grown needle and roll it in your fingers due to its square shape. The needles of the white spruce have an unpleasant odor when crushed. 8. Black Spruce : The cones of the black spruce are ½ - 1 ½ inches long and they start out dark purple and change to brown when they are ripe. Black spruce 9. White Spruce : The cones of the white spruce are about 2 inches long with a slender appearance. White spruce While you may be familiar with names like Fraser Fir, Doulgas Fir, Scotch Pine, and Colorado Blue Spruce, these popular trees commonly used over the holidays, are not actually native to Minnesota and so were not featured in this article. In closing, however, here is a summary to at least help you differentiate between fir, pine, and spruce trees: Fir : Needles are flat and soft. (Remember “friendly fir” - if you were to shake its hand compared to a pointy, stiff spruce.) If you were to pull off a needle, which grows singularly, it would leave a small circular scar on the stem. Pine : Needles group in clusters of two, three, or five depending on the type of tree. The clusters of needles are called fascicles. Most pine cones are woody in texture. Spruce : Spruce needles are sharply pointed, square, and you can roll them between your fingers. They are attached singularly to the stem on small woody structures that remain as projections if you pull a needle off the stem. Spruce cones are generally more flexible than pine cones. For more information, The University of Minnesota has put together this handy booklet: A Beginner’s Guide to MINNESOTA TREES. https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y References: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html (including all photos, except where noted) https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/pine_spruce_or_fir_getting_to_know_michigan_evergreen_trees https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/2005/nov/061401.htm Photo credits: Lisa Olson (1), Minnesota DNR (2 - 12))

< Back Planting for a Fall Harvest Late summer doesn’t always come to mind as planting time. But Late July and early August are great times to plant vegetables that grow quickly and mature better in cooler temperatures. Read on to discover which plants you can plant now that will grow successfully well into fall. Tori Clark, Master Gardener Late summer doesn’t always come to mind as planting time. Some crops like lettuce and spinach can be bitter and hard to grow in the heat of the summer. Late July and early August are great times to plant vegetables that grow quickly and mature better in cooler temperatures. After harvesting veggies like lettuces, radishes, peas and spinach you can easily grow more if you have the inclination for more fresh, garden-grown produce into fall. Before replanting an area remove any remaining plants and allow the area to rest for a couple of weeks. Roots and debris from some plants can cause seeds to not germinate so it is best to wait. Next, remove any weeds, loosen the soil, and add a balanced fertilizer or some compost to replace the nutrients the earlier crop used. Some plants like peas, salad greens, spinach, and herbs such as cilantro and basil grow in as few as 30-50 days and have plenty of time to grow before the first frost. Other vegetables like kale are frost tolerant and continue to grow well into October while being tender and sweet. Whatever you decide to try growing as a late crop be sure to check the seed packages for the number of days to maturity to ensure plants have enough time to grow. The University of Minnesota Extension also has a handy planting chart that shows the types of vegetables best suited to late planting. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera): A Speedy Giant Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener You may not be familiar with the Tulip tree, June’s native tree of the month, because until now our climate was not suitable. Although climate change is an existential threat to our planet, or at least to our species, it has made growing tulip trees a possibility in southern Minnesota and the Twin Cities. Aside from its intriguing name, the Tulip tree has lots attributes that make it an attractive option for your garden. Read this article to learn more. Although climate change is an existential threat to our planet, or at least to our species, it has made growing tulip trees a possibility in southern Minnesota and the Twin Cities (USDA Zone 5). Although native to the Eastern Midwest, it has been planted widely in more western regions and has become a candidate for Minnesota. It is hardy through zone 5 but with a bit of pampering will do all right in Zone 4. Why pamper? Because it is a gorgeous shade tree. In zone 5 or warmer it grows rapidly to 70 to 130 feet with a width of 30 to 60 feet. It then can live on for centuries. In Zone 4 it is a shorter plant but that may not be a drawback. The tulip tree rewards with spring-time flowers that resemble tulips. tulip tree flower It provides generous shade in summer with its smooth green broadly lobed leaves. In fall the tulip tree will put on quite a show with shimmering gold and yellow colors. The native tulip tree is quite pollinator friendly, attracting bees and hummingbirds when flowering. Later in the season, bobwhites, rabbits and squirrels feed on the seeds. Tulip trees are also known as ‘yellow poplar,’ and ‘tulip poplar’ although they are members of the magnolia family, Magnoliaceae. The tulip tree has quite a history. They were popular with early settlers for railroad ties and fence posts because of the strength of the wood. Native Americans as well as Daniel Boone used the wood to construct canoes. tulip tree If you want to give the tulip tree a go, select an area with full sun (at least 6 hours per day). Also, you’ll want a moist soil with good drainage. It is quite pH tolerant doing well in either acid or alkaline conditions although you would do well to amend the soil with quite a bit of compost when planting. It’s okay to plant from spring to late fall. You will want to mulch the roots quite a bit as they are shallow. Also, a growing tree needs lots of water, so keep an eye on it throughout the summer. As these guys get tall quickly, you will want to be careful where you site your specimen. After the first season, you should see rapid growth of a relatively maintenance-free shade tree for you and you family to enjoy for generations. Photo credits: Wikimedia Commons (1,2)

< Back Fragrant Plants Jessie Thompson, Dakota County Master Gardener If given a single flower right now, would your first reaction be to smell it? Scents can be so powerful. It can instantly unlock a memory and transport us to another time. Maybe the aroma of lilacs brings you back to playing in the backyard with your childhood best friend. Or the smell of basil, reminds you of your grandmother’s pesto. The fragrance of plants can enhance your garden and contribute to a sensory experience. It is easy to understand why we humans would want to be around good smelling plants and flowers, but have you ever wondered why plants have scents? Plants give off scents as volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are chemicals that evaporate easily into the air. The complex mixes of VOCs play important roles in plant communication and defense, such as attracting pollinators and deterring pests. It can also be important for seed dispersal. A large quantity of a plant's VOCs can be released from flowers, but they also come from all parts of plants, including stems, seeds, roots, leaves, and fruits. Plants release their fragrance to signal their flowers are ready for pollination and it is timed for when their pollinators are most active. For example, plants that are pollinated by bees and butterflies tend to release most of their scent during the day. Some plants release their scents during the night and attract nocturnal pollinators, like the 4-O-Clock ‘ Mirabilis jalapa’ that blooms in the evening and attracts night moths. Sweet scented plants usually attract bees and butterflies, while plants with spicy or fruity scents attract pollinator beetles. Fragrant plants can bring so much enjoyment to humans but they can also play an important role to pollinators, insects, animals, and ecosystems. Here are just a few examples of fragrant plants that both we and our wildlife friends can enjoy: Anise hyssop ‘ Agastache foeniculum’ - A hearty perennial with lavender purple flowers. Attracts butterflies, pollinators, and rusty patch bumblebees. The leaves can be used for anise-flavored tea. Photo Credit: www.pinterest.com Anise Hyssop plants Dill ‘ Anethum graveolens’ - Not only delicious for pickles and other recipes, this fragrant annual herb also attracts pollinators and larvae of swallowtail butterflies. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension dill plant in display garden Bright Eyes ‘Phlox Phlox paniculata’ 'Bright Eyes' - This hearty perennial has a sweet fragrance that attracts and is a nectar source for adult butterflies. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension close up of pink ‘Bright Eyes’ flowers; Coral Reef Bee Balm ‘ Monarda didyma’ 'Coral Reef' - Attracts birds, butterflies, hummingbirds, and pollinators. Bee balm has a scent similar to oregano, thyme and mint and can be used to make tea. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension 'Coral Reef’ Bee Balm plant If you would like to add scented plants to your garden, the University of Minnesota Extension Plants Elements of Design Tool can be useful to find fragrant plants that will work for your yard. Some plants have a strong scent that can be experienced from a little distance while other plants have a more subtle fragrance that is best enjoyed up close. Consider placing the plants where you will enjoy them most, like along a pathway, in a patio planter, or by the front door. References: Floral Scents and Fruit Aromas: Functions, Compositions, Biosynthesis, and Regulation - PMC Plant Volatile Organic Compounds: Revealing the Hidden Interactions - PMC Why do flowers have scents? | Scientific American Why do plants smell? | Kew Making scents: The aromatic world of flowers - Scienceline Scent Photo Credits: www.publicdomainpictures.net (1), www.pinterest.com (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3-5)

< Back Caring for Indoor Plants with Young Children Kristin Beardsley Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. Click here to discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants Even as the weather gets cold, we can still enjoy plants with our little ones. In this article, discover how to help your young child be successful in caring for indoor plants independently. You will learn how to set up the materials needed and show your young child how to dust, prune, identify, and water indoor plants. DO Materials: Place to work, can be a child-sized table, coffee table, plant stand, or the floor. Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Tray to carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Atomizer or spray bottle Cloth to catch drips Small watering can Several indoor plants Small brush and dustpan for clean-up (optional) Presentation Invite the child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left-handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Choose a plant and bring it to the workspace. It’s nice to tell the child what the plant is called or look at the tag if the plant is labeled. “Let’s mist the leaves. First, I will mist, then you can.” Pick up the atomizer, rest the atomizer on your non-dominant hand as you slowly place your fingers to mist. Hold the handle with your thumb and middle finger, then place your pointer finger on the top. Your pointer finger will push down to mist, keep your hands in this position to show your child a way they can be successful. This grip will help your child to strengthen their hand for holding pencils for writing. I model this, but my daughter isn’t able to do it yet, so she puts the atomizer on the table and pushes down with her palm. A spray bottle is also an easier option for younger children. Discuss how much water the plant needs and decide if it needs to be watered by feeling for moisture in the soil with a finger. Go fill the watering can. Show the child how to carry the watering can with one hand on the handle and one holding the cloth on the spout to decrease spills. When you go to water the cloth can be lowered and then can come back up to catch drips. Look for any spills and dry with the cloth and invite the child to water. Invite the child to water as many plants as they like and show them how to put everything away when they are done. You might need a small brush and dustpan to pick up any spilled soil. Extension for a Younger Child: Leaf Dusting It might be nice to introduce leaf dusting first as an introduction to caring for indoor plants, and it is accessible for a younger child. It feels great to see a dusty leaf look clean and shiny again. Choose a special cloth to be the designated leaf duster or make a leaf duster out of wool with a little handle, and choose a dish for the duster to sit in. When you go to present leaf dusting to your child bring the duster and plant to a workspace. Place one hand under the leaf and show how to dust the leaf from base to tip with 2-3 strokes. Dust a few leaves and then invite the child to dust. Only plants with smooth leaves can be dusted. Extension for an Older Child: Pruning Older children can also prune dead leaves while caring for indoor plants. Keep a small child size pruner in a dish. Show how to safely open the pruner and explain how we never touch the blade; it is very sharp. Locate and prune dead leaves and place them in the dish. Safely close the pruner before setting it down. Discard the leaves in the dish. Things to Consider when Presenting Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. Plants may be overwatered and over pruned. Have a big towel ready for spills and only offer plants that you are okay getting a fun new look. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. Focusing on your hands will help the child to be successful. Avoid praising the child and instead use phrases that acknowledge what they have achieved, like “You watered the plant,” when appropriate. Read Create a book for your child with all the plants in your home. Include the plants common name, scientific name, and how much water and light it needs. To assist a child who is not yet reading include a photo of each plant along with symbols to represent water and sun needs. Then place a sweet little tag with each plant including the name and symbols for how much water and sun it needs. This will allow your developing child to find a proper location for the plant to thrive and water it appropriately.

< Back Transplanting Peonies Michelle Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener My grandma’s peonies have accompanied me every time I have moved. They are a treasured memory of my grandma, one of the people who influenced my love of gardening. Every spring, the beautiful and huge pink and white blossoms open, sending their scent out to tickle my memories and remind me of spending time with grandma in her garden. But occasionally, peonies need to be transplanted. Read this article to learn how to divide and transfer peonies the right way. Peonies ( Paeonia sp.), unlike Hosta’s and other perennials, don’t need to be divided frequently. Some experts say peonies only need to be divided once every 10 years and others suggest once in 50 years is sufficient ( UMN Extension Dividing Perennials , K-State Research and Extension , Illinois Extension College of Agricultural, Consumer & Environmental Sciences )! Iowa State University’s Extension Yard and Garden states peonies can live up to 100 years if well maintained ( Iowa State Extension Yard and Garden ). Many people divide them to create additional bushes or to share with others. Dividing peonies is not difficult but there are a few important points to know to be successful. The best time to divide or move peonies is late August through September but it is possible to do it at any time between spring (after the ground thaws) and fall (before the ground freezes). Moving them later than September in the fall is not advised because you need to give the peonies time to get their roots established before the ground freezes. The American Peony Society provides detailed information for digging, dividing, and replanting peonies ( Dividing and Replanting Peonies ). You can either dig the whole plant out or cut out a pie-shaped wedge. If you dig the whole plant out, you should plan to divide it as just moving the whole plant may result in decreased flowering for a couple of years. Peonies grow large, thick storage roots, making it difficult to get the whole extensive system that develops after three or more years of growth. This is important to know because when you dig the plant, you will want to ensure you keep a six-to-ten-inch length of these storage roots for replanting. To dig the whole plant, dig around 8-10 inches out from the plant and go around the whole plant. The first time you dig, you will want to dig straight down in a circle around the plant and the second round of digging should be angled inward. This allows you to undercut the roots. It is not recommended that you pry the roots out; instead, you should continue to go around the plant until you have loosened the whole plant and can lift it. If you try prying the plant out with your shovel or spade, you run the risk of losing good roots because they often break at the tops. Once the plant is dug out, shake off the soil and rinse the roots off. This will help you identify the ‘eyes’ or buds. When you divide the plant or if you elect to take a pie wedge approach, take a 6-8 section and cut straight down, making sure you get a minimum of 1-3 large buds. However, the University of Iowa’s Extension garden program recommends 3-5 large buds ( https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-how-divide-peonies ). If you have fewer than two buds, it can take several years before the peonies will flower again. To cut through the roots, which are tough, use a very sharp knife. If you have only cut a wedge out of a peony plant, fill in the space you cut out with good soil. The remaining plant will close the gap. When you replant the peony / plant, you will want to select a site that receives at least six hours of direct sun and has well-drained soil. Dig about a one-inch-deep hole. Peonies prefer to have their eyes near the surface. If you plant them too deep, the plant will continue to grow but there will be no peony flowers. Whether your goal is to increase the number of peony plants in your own yard or share them with others, following these division steps will help you to end up with more beautiful peonies. Photo Credits: Michelle Scullard 1,3,4 University of Iowa Extension 2

< Back Missouri Gourd (Cucurbita foetidissima): Beautiful but Tough Missouri gourd – a gourd of many names is an interesting and unusual vine. As this article explains, Missouri gourd has many advantages as a ground cover or climbing vine. As an added bonus, the vine produces a beautiful flower and edible fruit. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener As best one can tell, Missouri gourd probably started out as native to the Flint Hills and Osage Plains of Kansas, naturalizing both southwestward, eastward and northward into Iowa, Kentucky, Michigan, Ohio and southern Minnesota. It’s also known as calabazilla, chilicote, coyote gourd, fetid gourd, wild gourd, wild pumpkin and buffalo gourd. Indeed, it has the toughness of bison. Although most widespread in the Southwest of the US and northern Mexico it will grow in most any climate boasting seven to nine months of warm weather. A member of the cucumber family, this guy is remarkably tolerant of dry, poor soil. Thus, it becomes an ideal ground cover for those areas of the property where not much of anything will grow. It will sprawl or climb a fence or trellis with vigor. It also is quite handy on banks susceptible to erosion. Once established, the vine will produce large showy orange to yellow flowers in summer, reminiscent of squash blossoms. As you might guess from its relatives, Missouri gourd will produce small gourd like fruit, looking like mini watermelons. They can be quite decorative in the fall. Photo Credit: Wikipedia Missouri gourd flower in summer The plant is edible, although you have to boil the fruit when it is very young. As it matures, it becomes quite bitter. The flowers are also bitter. You might give the seeds a try, although be sure to boil or roast them before you dig in. In addition to being a food source for Native Americans, the gourd is traditionally used to make musical instruments, particularly rattles. You might try drying out a gourd to make an interesting winter project! Photo Credit: Charles Clark, Wikipedia small melon-like fruit So, if you are looking for a reliable ground cover for difficult soil which will reward you with stunningly golden flowers and decorative fall melons, consider Missouri gourd. Photo Credits: Charles Clark, Wikipedia (1), Wikipedia (2)

< Back Sunburned plants This article provides advice about how to recognize sunburned plants (sunscald), how to prevent it and what to do if your plants suffer from it. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Many plants in your vegetable garden can get sunburned! For instance, vegetables and fruit can burn if the canopy of leaves over them is removed or if they are placed outside without being hardened off. House plants will suffer if moved from a shady room to a sunnier room. Sunscald is a synonym of sunburned. How to recognize sunburn/scald Look for: sunken bleached spots on fruits and vegetables; brown areas on pome fruits such as apples; or whitish, yellowish or browned foliage. Some things to do to prevent sunburn or sunscald 1) Harden-off plants before moving them to a sunnier location. Over the course of about 5-10 days, let them have longer and longer exposure to the sun (and wind). This goes for houseplants moving to a sunnier room or outside, as well as seedlings and plants grown in a greenhouse. 2) Plant out on an overcast day, if possible. 3) Water thoroughly before and after planting out. 4) In the case of house plants, research ideal light conditions and then observe the new location for several days in advance of moving them. 5) Water in the morning, and water at the root instead of the foliage. Water on leaves can magnify the sun to cause damage. 6) Be careful to not remove foliage shading immature fruit/vegetables when harvesting; this will let the sun reach areas that aren’t used to it. 7) Research whether your fruit/vegetable will continue ripening after picking and possibly pick them a little early, then promptly get them into the shade or a cooler place. 8) Try a different variety if you notice lots of sunscald this year. 9) Mulch freshly planted starts to conserve moisture, and facilitate root growth. 10) Do not fertilize right away; a high nitrogen fertilizer will direct energy into the leaves before the roots can settle in. 11) Kaolin- based products such as Surround® can reduce the chances of sunburn. Read the label for proper application rates and personal protective equipment. The label for Surround WP® includes language about reducing sunburn damage, but Surround CF® doesn’t. This product covers the surface of the fruit with clay. The clay will reflect the sunlight and reduce the sunlight that reaches the fruit. Kaolin should be applied to the point of near-drip coverage. Be careful to leave enough foliage free of the kaolin for photosynthesis. Check label for organic certification. Read more about the use of Kaolin from Purdue University here: https://vegcropshotline.org/article/sunburn-on-vegetables/ 12) Prune carefully to leave enough foliage to shade the fruit/vegetable. Prune diseased foliage promptly. 13) Water deeply. 14) Sheer curtains in the window can help house plants deal with too much light. 15) Use a shade cloth or bamboo screen to throw some shade during the hottest part of the day, and growing season. Shade cloth differs in the amount of shade that is thrown. A 70% cloth will let 30% of the light through. There is no one, right, answer to which percentage your garden needs. I used an orange snow fence last summer. Some things you can do after a plant shows sunburn/sunscald 1) Move plants (if possible) to a less exposed site. 2) Cut fertilizer rates to half strength until new leaf growth shows. 3) For tomatoes, try to keep temperatures below 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Tomatoes are native to alpine regions in Central and South America. The hottest days of Minnesota’s growing season can be hard on tomatoes. Try a shade cloth or bamboo screen to keep the tomatoes cooler during the hottest parts of the day. 4) Remove damaged fruit or leaves so that the plant can use its energy to grow more fruits, vegetables or leaves. 5) Be patient. Planning to prevent sunburn/scald before it can happen will lead to a happy productive garden! Read more from UMN here: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/gardens-get-sunburned-too Read more from Michigan State here: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/hot_and_sunny_days_promote_sunscald_in_peppers_and_other_vegetables Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1, 3), Dreamtime.com (2), istockphoto.com (4)

< Back Spaghetti Squash (“Cucurbita pepo”) Spaghetti Squash is something to consider introducing to your diet. It is relatively easy to find in the grocery stores in the winter as well as Farmer’s Markets in the late summer months. You can also grow it in your own garden! It is rich in vitamins and antioxidants, low in calorie and carbohydrates, high in fiber, and easy to prepare. Spaghetti Squash is different than typical squash varietals in that it can be shredded into strands resembling “spaghetti” and can be used as a gluten-free replacement to pasta, helping you achieve your carb reduction or weight loss goals. Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Are you looking for a new nutritious vegetable to introduce to your diet? Are you looking to reduce the amount of carbohydrates you consume, or an alternative to traditional spaghetti? Are you interested in finding a new recipe that is easy and fun to make? What Is Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash is a variety of winter squash, native to the Americas. It is a large oval vegetable typically with a light yellow, thin skin. Similar to other winter squash, it has a netting of seeds at its center, which can be roasted and eaten separately. Spaghetti Squash is unique, in that after cooking, its flesh can be shredded into long strands resembling spaghetti. Its botanical name is Cucurbita pepo. How to Prepare Rinse the exterior and cut in half length-wise Remove seeds in the center with a large spoon, scrape out netting Place on rimmed baking sheet or pan with cut-side down Add about ¼ inch of water to pan Bake in 375 degree oven for about 40 minutes or until the outer shell can be pressed down slightly with your finger Remove from oven, flip each half to expose the flesh and let cool a few minutes With a fork, scrape at the flesh, shredding it into spaghetti-like strands Nutritional Information Spaghetti squash is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and beta-carotene. One cup (155 grams) of cooked spaghetti squash contains the following: Calories: 42 Carbs: 10 grams Fiber: 2.2 grams Protein: 1 gram Fat: 0.4 grams Vitamin C: 6% of the DV Manganese: 7% of the DV Vitamin B6: 9% of the DV Pantothenic acid: 11% of the DV Niacin: 8% of the DV Spaghetti squash also contains small amounts of potassium, thiamine, magnesium, foliate, calcium, and iron. How to grow Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash can be grown by directly seeding in your garden. Plant two weeks after the last spring frost, typically the end of May or early June in Minnesota. Chose a spot with full sun (at least 8 hours a day) and a loose, well-drained soil. Amend the soil with compost since the plants need nutrient-dense soil. Plant in hills, with 3 or 4 seeds per hill and 3 feet between each hill. Provide 1 inch of water per week (1-5 gallons per plant) during the growing season. Add water directly to the soil, avoiding the leaves. Spaghetti Squash takes approximately 100 days from planting to harvest – or by the end of August or September. Harvest before the first hard freeze. You can test the ripeness of the fruit by pressing your thumbnail into the rind. It should be hard to pierce. For more information on how to grow spaghetti and other winter squash varieties visit this University of Minnesota Extension website. Recipe Spaghetti squash can be used in a variety of ways and can be a great substitute for traditional pasta, providing a higher nutritional value and lower caloric content. Try this tasty recipe: Spaghetti Squash with Ground Turkey Bolognese Ingredients: One large spaghetti squash One 32-ounce jar of prepared spaghetti sauce or marinara One pound of ground turkey 1 package sliced mushrooms 1 teaspoon oregano Grated parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired Directions: Prepare and bake spaghetti squash in 375 degree oven, as directed above. Brown the ground turkey in a large fry pan with the mushrooms, season with 1 teaspoon oregano Add jar of spaghetti sauce or marinara to fry pan. Simmer 10 minutes. Shred the spaghetti squash into strands; serve on a plate and ladle turkey/sauce mixture over the top. Serve with parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: Mary Barnidge (1), www.midgetmomma.com (2)

< Back Make a Cayenne Pepper Wreath for the Holidays Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s a great idea to grow vegetables in your garden to eat and share. But some vegetables lend themselves to other creative uses. Read this article to learn how to make a beautiful and useful holiday wreath with cayenne peppers. The Dakota County Master Gardeners participate in the University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners’ annual vegetable seed trials. Master Gardeners receive selected vegetable seeds, plant them, grow them and record data about the growing experience. I participated in the project for the first time this year. It was a great learning experience. One of the seed types I chose to grow was cayenne peppers. I started them indoors in March and was blessed with about 60 plants that germinated and grew to transplanting size. I transplanted them outside in late May. In early September the peppers were at their peak of production. I harvested and taste tested all of the varieties and recorded my data for the seed trial project. But at the end of the season, I had a LOT of peppers. What was I to do with all of them? Well, I fermented 2 gallons of hot sauce and bottled it in cute little bottles and gave it away as Christmas gifts to all of my friends, family and co-workers. But I still had a lot of peppers left. Being the frugal person that I am, I can’t bear to waste anything, so I decided to make a wreath for the holidays. I spent 3 long evenings sewing peppers onto a straw wreath with florist’s wire. I pushed each piece of wire through the base of the stem of the pepper and then wrapped it around the straw wreathe to anchor it. Pepper after pepper, row after row. A pattern started to develop. I made a green ring by facing the stems toward each other. I tried to fill all the gaps. Some of the peppers were quite long and heavy. The wreathe as a whole ended up being quite heavy. I hung it in my kitchen on a secure hook, for about a month. The peppers began to dry and shrivel up. This changed the look of the wreath. When I needed a pepper for cooking, I could just snip one off. After about 3 months the peppers became so dry that the stems wouldn’t hold the florists wire any longer and they began to fall off. This isn’t a permanent wreath, but it was a fun accent for a few months. If you try this, make sure you wear gloves and don’t touch your face when handling the peppers. You can also make garlands or hanging ropes using onions and garlic. I did that years ago; again, they last for a while, but as they start to dry out, they fall apart. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1,2,3)

< Back Humidity and Indoor Plants Linda Stein, Dakota County Master Gardener Are you filling your winter gardening needs by growing houseplants? If so, you’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes is dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants . . . and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. In this article, Master Gardener Linda Stein provides advice about how providing humidity to your plants can help them through the winter. You’ve probably noticed that the air in our homes has become dryer during the winter months. That not only affects us, but it also can have a significant impact on your plants. This is especially true for tropical plants…and many house plants do originate in tropical settings. Insufficient humidity may cause browning and brittleness around the edges of the plant’s leaves. Succulent plants, of course, tolerate a lower humidity environment. With this in mind, it’s important to provide added humidity to the non-succulent plants that you are growing in your home. According to an entry in the website from Nebraska Extension, “The Mayo Clinic recommends indoor humidity stay between 30-50% for human health and comfort, but many homes have much lower humidity levels. For plants, humidity requirements vary by species, but generally 70-80% is best.” So in almost all situations, the addition of humidity should be a part of your indoor plant care. There are a number of options available for adding humidity. Use of a Humidifier : A home humidifier is probably the simplest way to increase humidity throughout your home. That will, of course, benefit not only your plants, but also the people residing in the home. However, this method will not increase the humidity level to the amount required by your non succulent plants. Misting : Another option is to mist your plants. Misting is frequently discouraged because the impact is short lived. In addition, water standing on your plant can promote diseases and/or the development of mold. Pebble Tray : To increase humidity, pots containing your plants can be placed on a one-to-two-inch-deep tray filled with pebbles. Add water to the tray. As the water evaporates, it provides humidity for the plant. Grouping plants : Plants located in close proximity to each other can benefit each other. The moisture released by the leaves of the plants can increase the humidity around the group of plants. Use of a bell jar cover : A bell jar placed over a plant can trap the moisture created by water evaporating from the soil and from moisture released by the plant’s leaves. Placement over heat source : If your home has a radiator, floor vents, or a wood stove these can be helpful. By placing plants over these objects, the heat can create the humidity needed by them. Locating plants in a kitchen or bathroom: The two rooms with the most humidity in the house are the kitchen and bathroom. So, if the light available in those rooms is adequate, they are the best location for plants requiring added humidity. So, to promote the health of your house plants, make sure your plants are receiving the right type light, water, fertilizer and soil composition. But don’t forget your plants’ need for necessary air humidity around them. Try the tips in this article for happy houseplants. https://lancaster.unl.edu/houseplants-humidity#:~:text=Grouping plants together can also, pocket of slightly higher humidity. Photo credit: Linda Stein (1-4)

< Back Gardens of Awe and Folly by Vivian Swift A Traveler’s Guide on the Meaning of Life and Gardens Looking for a book to take you on a journey to gardens for inspiration and beauty? Read on for Linda Holt’s review of Gardens of Awe and Folly by Vivan Swift! Linda Holt For those of us that find meaning in life when getting down on all fours to play in our gardens, Minnesota winters and major surgeries can be equally frustrating and boring. That is where I found myself this past March and April. You remember the winter and the snow that would never end? To top it off, I was laid up with a total knee replacement and confined to a recliner. Never the one to sit still except when reading, I decided to plunge into a book about gardens I may never see and discover what meaning it held for me in the present time and predicament. The Gardens of Awe and Folly was just what I needed to spirit me away from my current circumstances. Nine very different and diverse gardens from Paris to Key West, Marrakech to New Orleans, Long Island to London and Rio De Janeiro to a winter garden in Edinburgh are gorgeously portrayed in soothing watercolors, while her vivid descriptions regal the rich history of each garden and the ones who came to own them. Her summations of each garden include a “gardening tip”. As an example, when she sums up the Paris Garden: Square du Vert-Galant located in the middle of the Seine, she states that “when considering our own gardens in light of this Paris small public garden, our own piece of the earth may not seem so small”. The author gets a bit political when introducing the Australian Pine, a native found on the coastline of the Tasmanian Sea. When in Fort Zach Beach, located in Key West, you can’t help but hear the “rallying cry” of “Save our Pines” at public protests as FL bureaucrats declare them an invasive species. Yet Swift points out many of Florida’s favorite trees interestingly “do not come from FL”. This is only a small fraction of the author’s garden reflections on her travels. But I will leave it to you to enjoy on your bad weather day. As for me, I hugged my afghan closer on that cold March day and watched the growing mound of snow gather outside my window, silently thanking all gardeners everywhere and especially Vivian Swift, for the warmth and beauty of a well told story and its ability to place me on the garden bench in the middle of it all. The following gardening tip for the Rio de Janeiro Garden sums up her work very well (and I cannot say this better than the author herself) so I quote: “No matter how grand or minuscule, every garden has a meaning all its own; but every garden, everywhere, has a common reason for being, in that it was made in homage to this wondrous Earth that has given life to every Eden we’ve ever imagined.” The bit of interesting information that I learned about the Author: Vivian Swift, is that she is neither a gardener nor a grower of indoor plants, yet she wrote and hand painted this wonderful book about Gardens. She calls it a travel memoir, a personal journey to 9 different gardens where she looks at context a bit differently than a gardener may. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I hope you do too. Photo Credit: Gardens of Awe and Folly by Vivian Swift Book Cover (1)