< Back Winter is a Perfect Time to Start Seeds Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. Read this article to learn the why, what. how and when for starting your own plants. On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. WHY: Many annuals need an early start in order to maximize their blooming time in summer. Long-growing vegetables need to be started indoors in order to be harvested before the first frost. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: seed trays and potting mix seeds, of course! heat mats to raise the temperature of your soil seed tray covers to help maintain humidity and temperature (or plastic wrap) grow lights (optional) plug-in timers for grow light WHAT: Not all plants benefit from being started as seeds indoors. Many are at their best when sown directly. Always check your seed packets to see what is recommended for each plant. HOW: PREPARE your setup with a heating mat under your seed tray, filled with potting mix and covered by a humidity dome. Grow lights can be plugged into timers in order to mimic long summer days, with 12+ hours of light, but do not plug your heating mat into a timer—heat should be on at all times. PLANT your seeds according to the seed packet instructions, WATER, and COVER your tray with your humidity dome. WATCH your seeds germinate and grow! The first growth you will see are not true leaves, but cotyledons. All plants are categorized by these: a seedling with one is called a monocot and a seedling with two is called a dicot. ADJUST the closeness of your grow light to your seedlings—about 4” is best! If your light is too far away from the seedlings, they grow tall, spindly, and weak as they strive to get closer to the light. These “leggy” seedlings often will not survive, so prevent your seedlings from reaching that state. WATER as needed, and also remove the humidity covers as needed. Too much humidity can create an environment in which molds can grow. THIN seedlings as needed. If many seedlings are too close together, they will not grow at their best. FERTILIZE only once a week, and use fertilizer mixed at only ¼ strength. TRANSPLANT seedlings into larger containers as they grow. As you move them, lift by the root ball by using a spoon or plant tag for support. Never hold by the stem, but if necessary to steady the plant, lightly hold the plant by a leaf. HARDEN OFF seedlings when it is a few weeks before they will be moved out of doors. Each day, set plants outside for a few hours in the warmth of the afternoon. Begin by placing them in the shade for a short time, and gradually increase their exposure to the sun until you’re ready to transplant them to the garden. MOVE plants outdoors! WHEN: This can be the most daunting aspect of seed starting! If you are planting several different things, this can feel a bit like a juggling act. Grab a notebook and a pen to jot down notes from your seed packets on how many “days to harvest” or “days to bloom” for each plant. Consider making yourself a seed-starting calendar to keep beside your trays. Specific varieties will vary, but in general, you can follow these guidelines: EARLY FEBRUARY (14-15 weeks indoors): geraniums, pansies, leeks, onions LATE FEBRUARY (12-13 weeks indoors): dusty miller, larkspur, lobelia, celery EARLY MARCH (10-11 weeks indoors): coleus, dahlia, heliotrope, petunias, rudbeckia, snapdragons, verbena, broccoli Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce LATE MARCH (8-9 weeks indoors): cleome, hollyhocks, phlox, alyssum, eggplant, okra, peppers EARLY APRIL (5-7 weeks indoors): amaranthus, aster, bachelor buttons, calendula, morning glory, ornamental basil and kale, tomatoes LATE APRIL (3-4 weeks indoors): cosmos, sweet peas, zinnias, sweet potatoes As always, you will learn what works and what doesn’t work in your own garden by trying things out. There isn’t only one correct way to practice indoor seed starting, and everyone’s set-up is a little different. For more information about growing plants from seed in your home, visit the Dakota County Master Gardener You Tube site. Here is one “how-to” video . Happy planting! Photo Credit: Valerie Rogotzke (1), Jim Lakin (2,3)

< Back Extend the Growing Season with Greenhouses Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener The doldrums of winter are upon us and gardeners are drooling over seed catalogs and dreaming of fresh vegetables and riots of flower colors. But spring planting is still several months away. This is an excellent time to research gardening season extenders such as greenhouses, cold frames, and low tunnels. They could help you start your growing season sooner in the spring and last longer in the fall. To determine which one(s) will best meet your growing needs, there are some key questions you will want to ask yourself and information you’ll want to consider. This article explains the basics and provides helpful resources to move your from – that’s interesting to – I’d like to try that in my yard. The doldrums of winter are upon us and gardeners are drooling over seed catalogs and dreaming of fresh vegetables and riots of flower colors. But spring planting is still several months away. This is an excellent time to research gardening season extenders such as greenhouses, cold frames, and low tunnels. They could help you start your growing season sooner in the spring and last longer in the fall. To determine which one(s) will best meet your growing needs, there are some key questions you will want to ask yourself and information you’ll want to consider. A greenhouse can be described as a place to grow plants inside. Greenhouses can be heated or unheated. They are usually made of glass or plastic to enable light to shine through and they have a roof. Using the sun, the greenhouse captures heat and light. This then generates warmth for plants to grow. Greenhouses also allow gardeners to control the environment because plants grown inside the greenhouse are not subject to the wind, variable rain amounts, and temperature extremes. You may be able to manage pests like insects more easily, and that means you can use fewer pesticides. And if you, like many of us, are plagued by rabbits or deer, you may be able to keep them away from your plants, too! Unheated Greenhouses An unheated greenhouse allows a gardener to start plants earlier in the spring and extend the harvest season longer into the fall months, but it will not be usable during the winter. To use a greenhouse all year in Minnesota, it needs to be heated. Heated greenhouses increase the costs not only of construction but also for operation. (More on heated greenhouses, known as “Deep Winter Greenhouses” below.) Determining the purpose of the greenhouse will help you decide which option is best in terms of function and costs. Greenhouses may be standalone or may be an added structure to your house, garage, or sheds such as a lean to. They need to be placed in a location that receives full sun. Next, you need to determine the building materials, which will be based on whether you want a heated or unheated greenhouse. Size may be dictated by your available space, availability to sunlight, and how you hope to use your greenhouse. Sizes can range from tabletop greenhouses to a tent-like shelf structure to large buildings with room for several people to work simultaneously. Greenhouses need to be anchored so they don’t fly away or tip over. They need ventilation to provide air flow but also to vent excessive heat so plants don’t burn or keep warmth in on colder days. Flooring needs to allow for drainage and prevent weeds from growing. And once the structural items are addressed, shelving and benches to hold the plants and other supplies will need to be selected. If a greenhouse doesn’t fit in your budget, you may consider these options, which may be less expensive, to extend your growing season. For individual plants, you could use a cloche, which is sometimes called a bell jar. It protects individual plants from cold temperatures and other weather extremes. Cold frames, which are essentially mini-greenhouses, can be created using old windows, doors, or other building materials, with glass or plastics. They are an excellent method for starting some seeds, especially the cool weather loving plants like lettuce, broccoli, spinach, cauliflower. They can also be used to get seeds started indoors used to being outside without full exposure to the cold, wind, or rain. Another option you may be less familiar with is low tunnels, which are usually temporary structures that basically create a barrier to the elements like wind, cold, excessive rain, and pests. They can be built with PVC pipe, electrical conduit, or rebar that are used to create hoops that are covered by plastic. The plastic can be purchased at home improvement stores or local hardware store and is recommended to be between 0.8-2 mil. Deep Winter Greenhouses Greenhouses in Minnesota must be heated to be usable year-round, unless they are constructed using Deep Winter Greenhouse (DWG) methods. This is a new approach to creating a year-round growing environment in the cold North, enabling gardeners and producers to grow vegetables in a non-heated structure. Building a greenhouse with heat and operating the heating source, as well as the maintenance costs, can become costly and often make them unobtainable for the majority of home gardeners. The University of Minnesota Extension calls DWGs passive-solar greenhouses that use energy from the sun to generate heat. This lessens the need to use traditional heating methods. This is accomplished by careful alignment of the building structure in an east-west position. The south facing direction is built out of a glazing wall, which can be angled based on the latitude of the site to maximize solar energy. This is advantageous for northern climates especially on very cold days. Inside the DWG, the air heats up, is blown underground, and stored in a thermal mass made of soil or rocks, essentially acting like a battery. While this does create a great growing environment, DWGs are not suitable for all plants. Plants that do best grow in minimal light and include lettuces, herbs, Asian greens, sprouts, and brassicas e.g., bok choy, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, choy sum, kohlrabi, napa cabbage, rutabaga, turnip. The initial set-up costs for DWGs, with an estimate of $18,583 to build ($33 per sq ft) with annual costs ranging from $35 to $2,148 depending on what fuel sources are used, how many seeds are purchased and quantity and type of soil and amendments are used. There Regional Sustainable Development Partnerships (RSDP) and Center for Sustainable Building Research have created a DIY version of the DWG Starting a DIY Deep Winter Greenhouse Operation on a Budget . Aimed more toward farmers than backyard gardeners, it may still provide some information that may be useful on a smaller scale. The RSDP also provides blueprints, construction manuals, resources, and information on other types of solar greenhouses. This has been a very brief overview of greenhouses and other growing season extenders. To learn more about different types of greenhouses, structural options, building materials, and alternates to greenhouses like cold frames, low tunnels, and cloches, explore these links: Very Small Greenhouses for Backyards from University of New Hampshire Extension The Hobby Greenhouse from Oklahoma State University Extension Extending the Growing Season in Your Garden from University of Minnesota Extension Extending the Garden Season from Utah State University Yard and Garden Extension References Garden Gate, March 2024 University of Minnesota Extension University of New Hampshire Extension Oklahoma State University of Extension Utah State University Yard and Garden Extension University of Minnesota Extension Deep Winter Greenhouses: https://extension.umn.edu/growing-systems/deep-winter-greenhouses This article contains numerous additional resources, guides, cost-benefit analysis, and information Winter Greenhouse Enterprise Analysis: https://extension.umn.edu/community-research/winter-greenhouse-enterprise-analysis A report detailing eight enterprises in the Upper Midwest New deep winter greenhouse design available for download: https://blog-fruit-vegetable-ipm.extension.umn.edu/2024/12/new-deep-winter-greenhouse-design.html Deep Winter Greenhouses grow fresh greens year-round: https://extension.umn.edu/source-magazine/deep-winter-greenhouses-grow-fresh-greens-year-round National Center for Appropriate Technology: https://attra.ncat.org/topics/greenhouses/ Photo credits: Oklahoma State University Extension (1), University of Utah Yard and Garden Extension (2,3,5), University of Minnesota Extension (4,6)

< Back New Chance Garden Project At Dakota County Juvenile Services Center Mary Galvin, edited by Julie Harris The Dakota County Master Gardeners partner with the Dakota County Juvenile Services Center in Hastings to plant and nurture a garden that teaches important lessons to the residents of the Center and provides produce for the county’s food shelves. The garden is part of the New Chance day treatment program. Male youth have the opportunity to work in the garden with the guidance of Master Gardeners. Read this article to learn more about how this important project serves as a teaching tool for youth and a source of food for county residents in need. The Dakota County Master Gardeners partner with the Dakota County Juvenile Services Center in Hastings to plant and nurture a garden that teaches important lessons to the residents of the Center and provides produce for the county’s food shelves. The Juvenile Services Center is a secured facility that provides detention and treatment services for youth. The garden is part of the New Chance day treatment program. Male youth between the ages of 14 and 17 have the opportunity to work in the garden with the guidance of Master Gardeners. Mary Galvin and Mary Beth Kufrin lead the project for the Master Gardeners. Several other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge to the project. What once was a small garden surrounded by turf was transformed into a multi-bed vegetable garden area with lovely wood chip borders and paths. Much credit goes to Dakota County staff and the program participants, who did the heavy lifting to make the garden happen. They prepared the area by removing the turf grass, tilling in compost, and laying out the garden bed areas and walkways with wood chips. This is the third year of the project which receives the enthusiastic support of Corrections and County officials, some of whom help with planting vegetables in the garden in the spring. Board Chair, Joe Atkins, Dakota County Commissioner Bill Droste, along with Community Corrections Director Suwana Kirkland, Deputy Director Matt Bauer, and Director of Community Services Marti Fischbach helped with planting the garden this year. The garden generated over 500 pounds of food last year. Most of this was donated to food shelves but some was enjoyed by youth in the New Chance program under the supervision of a nutritionist. Last year, Master Gardeners met with the New Chance participants to see what they wanted to grow. After a lively group discussion that included some general observations regarding our climate, our USDA zone, and growing season restrictions (which make pineapple and kiwifruit difficult to grow here), they made a list of possible produce to grow. Ideas include watermelon, strawberries, and rhubarb, collard greens, sweet corn, and pumpkins as well as garden staples like peppers, tomatoes, summer squash and onions. The participants also learn about pollinator friendly plants such as Zinnia and Swamp Milkweed. From planting day forward, Master Gardeners are in the garden weeding, watering, and harvesting alongside the staff and kids. One Master Gardener recalled how she described to a participant how food crops come from seeds, which grow into plants, which flower and bear fruit/vegetables, which in turn produce seeds. She said ‘it was like watching a light bulb turn on in the kid’s head as they made the connection.’ Other participants initially were anxious about seeing bees and wasps in the garden, but they also were interested to hear how non-threatening most insects are and how pollinators are essential to food production. In short, the hands-on aspect of the garden was an easy and informal way to educate. Dakota County Commissioner Mary Hamann-Roland, who was a driving force behind the garden, has said, “It’s been a great pleasure to work with the kids and staff and see the joy that the kids find in learning, picking and tasting new vegetables and fruit,” “It’s a metaphor,” said Hamann-Roland, “we need to tend to each other and when we do, we help our world grow.” Photo credits: Mary Galvin (1,2), Dakota County Commissioner (3)

< Back Seed Bombs - An Explosion of Color Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The calendar has turned to March and the excitement builds in anticipation for Spring, but wait, I can’t plant seeds outside yet. Don’t worry, DIY seed bombs are a great way to get your hands dirty and also introduce your children and grandchildren to a way of transforming a barren or hard to grow area of your yard into a beautiful flower spot. Seed bombs date back to the 1930’s when Masanobu Fukuoka, a Japanese microbiologist had many areas of his farm that were overgrown with weeds. He created seeds bombs and spread them throughout his farming land and found this to be an effective way of farming and eco-friendly as well. Urban settings also utilized seed bombs in the 1960’s and 1970’s when they were used to clean up urban neighborhoods and create “green spaces”. Seed bombs are great gift for family and friends as well. What is a Seed Bomb and How Do We Make Our Own? Seed bombs are a combination of seeds, clay and compost placed together to be placed or thrown in areas that need beautifying. The clay mixture protects the seeds from creatures that would eat it (ex. insects and birds) and the compost provides the nutrients for the seeds to germinate and grow. What You Need : Powdered Clay (can be found at craft stores or on-line or air-dry clay) Potting Soil or Compost Native/Local Wildflower Seeds (not all seeds will germinate so use a variety of native, non-invasive wildflower seeds) Water Container for Mixing Let’s Make Seed Bombs : Mix All Ingredients – 1 Cup Seeds 5 Cups of Soil or Compost 2-3 Cups of Clay Powder (Air Clay can also be used, but adjustments as to the amount of clay may be needed. Slowly mix in water with your hands until everything sticks together, then roll mixture into firm balls. Balls can also be formed into fun shapes like hearts or stars too. Place seed bombs in an area to dry. Once seed balls are dry and the weather is warm enough then it is time to plant the seed bombs. Plant your seed bombs by throwing them at bare spots of your garden and wait to see what pops up! Photo Credit: en.permawiki.org (1), www.pexels.com (2,5), flickr.com (3), University of MN Extension (4)

< Back Happy Feathered Friends Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Is it important for us to take care of our feathered friends when the weather turns cold and the snow begins to fly? Yes it is, because birds play an important role in the ecosystem of our garden from weed and pest control to pollination and fertilization, plus birds are fun for all ages to watch. Now it’s time to help the birds stay strong and healthy throughout the Winter with only a few simple supplies needed. Supplies Needed: Pinecones (find pinecones in nature) Peanut Butter, Almond Butter, Sun Butter Bird Seed (smaller seeds are best) String, Twine, Yarn Popsicle Stick/Hands/Butter Knife (dependent on age of participants) Plate/Tray/Large Piece of Thicker Paper Making the Bird Feeder: Place the birdseed on a plate, tray or large sheet of thicker paper and set aside. Choose a pinecone from the ones collected. Carefully take a 1-2 foot piece of string, twine or yarn and begin wrapping it around the pinecone leaving an end that can be used to hang the pine cone from a tree or post. Next, take a popsicle stick, butter knife or your hands and spread peanut butter, almond butter or sun butter onto the pinecone. Spread enough “butter” onto the pinecone so there are lots of spots for the birdseed to stick. Now it is time to get messy! Take the pinecone and roll it in the birdseed making sure to coat as much of the pine cone as possible. Once you have completed coating the pinecone in birdseed the next step is to hang it outside. Remember to place the Pinecone Bird feeder in a spot where the birds feel protected from predators. Once you have found the right spot, sit back and enjoy the birds. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1,2), www.Pexels.com (3,4)

< Back Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Is there a food more identified with October than pumpkin! Of course not! So, here is Joy Johnson’s delicious recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake. Joy says she is targeting adults with this recipe but kids will love it, too! Pumpkin is nutritious and delicious. It can be used in a variety of ways. It’s easy to get kids to eat their veggies when you roast them, bake them in a pie or make a frothy drink out of them. Remember Harry Potter’s love for Pumpkin Juice? I shared all those recipes in last year’s October Garden Buzz, so I thought I’d focus on the adults this year. Yes, you can have your coffee and eat it too. Here is a recipe for Pumpkin Spice Latte Cake , with coffee frosting of course! Cake Ingredients: ½ cup butter, room temperature 2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar 1 T pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 15 oz can pumpkin puree 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour 1 ¼ tsp baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¾ teaspoon ground ginger ¾ teaspoon ground cardamom 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg ¾ teaspoon salt Frosting Ingredients: ½ cup salted butter, at room temperature 2 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature 1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar 1 T instant coffee powder 1 T vanilla extract Process: Preheat the oven to 350. Grease and flour an 8-inch square baking pan. MAKE THE CAKE: In a stand mixer, beat together the butter, brown sugar, vanilla, eggs, and pumpkin on low until combined, about 1 minute, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed Add the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cardamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix at medium speed until completely smooth with no lumps remaining, for about 2 minutes. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the center is just set, 25-30 minutes, place it on a cooling rack. Let cool. MEANWHILE, MAKE THE FROSTING: Beat together the butter and cream cheese until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the confectioners’ sugar, instant coffee powder, and vanilla. Beat until the frosting is light and fluffy, 2-4 minutes more. Spread the frosting over the cake. Slice, snack and enjoy. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days. Photo Credits: www.aceofgray.com (1), Joy Johnson (2)

< Back New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus): A Short Showy Shrub Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) is in no way related to Earl Grey or the American mafia. Read this article about how this hardy, long-lived native perennial shrub got its name. Continue reading to learn more about this native shrub’s attributes and how to use New Jersey Tea in your garden. New Jersey Tea ( Ceanothus americanus ) is in no way related to Earl Grey or the American mafia. Its curious name was coined during the American Revolution when its leaves were used as a substitute for the imported English version. Never having tried the concoction, I cannot vouch for either its taste or its safety. I can however, attest to the plant being a hardy, long-lived native perennial shrub. Ceanthus americanus in summer bloom In the wild New Jersey Tea thrives on upland prairies and savannas in full sun to partial shade. It is found throughout eastern and central North America, growing some three feet tall and five wide. Ceanothus americanus is hardy from Zones 3 through 9 so it does well even in Northern Minnesota. It makes an excellent low hedge where privacy is not an issue. New Jersey Tea works especially well on rocky hillsides and slopes. It does require well-drained soil which can be either sandy or loamy. The shrub has a deep tap root which makes it especially drought resistant and low maintenance when established. It is a slow grower, however and will take two to three years to establish itself. Once settled in, New Jersey tea boasts beautifully glossy green leaves topped by frothy white clusters of flowers that adorn the shrub in July and August. Thus, it adds color to the garden at times when not much is otherwise happening. These flowers go on to produce black seed capsules which explode in early fall. The capsule remnants remain on the bush through the winter, adding interest. New Jersey Tea is deciduous and blooms off new wood. Therefore, it can be pruned back in the fall or early spring, if desired. I prefer, however, to leave it in its natural state. Ceanothus americanus foliage As you might expect from such a ubiquitous native perennial, it is quite pollinator friendly. Hummingbirds especially appreciate the smaller insects that are drawn to the summer blooms. It is a host plant for both Spring Azure and Summer Azure butterflies ( Celastrina ladon ) . It is said to be deer resistant although other sources state deer use the twigs as a major food source throughout the year. Frankly, most anything is potential chow for Bambi. Since it is slow growing it usually is available in nurseries only in smaller sizes. Be patient, however and you will be richly rewarded by this lovely plant. Photo Credit: US Fish & Wildlife Service (1), Go Botany (2)

< Back Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens): Romance in the air Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener A warm summer night and the fragrance of wisteria is in the air. Okay, I admit to being a bit of a romantic, but this gorgeous native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. Learn why and how to grow this lovely climbing vine in your garden in this article. Wisteria frutescens or Amerious native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. can wisteria is a woody, deciduous, climbing vine native to the wet forests and stream banks of the southeastern United States with a growing range stretching from the states of Virginia to East Texas extending southeast through Florida and north to New York and the Central Midwest extending into southern Minnesota . Fragrant, pea-like, lilac-purple or blue flowers will develop in April-May after the leaves emerge. Sometimes some additional blooming will develop in the summer. Although the flowers are usually blueish, some cultivars will produce white or dark burgundy blooms, or even have hints of yellow or green. If you are going to give American wisteria a go, you should of course provide some fairly sturdy trellising as the plant can grow as tall as 15 to 40 feet and 4 to 8 feet wide. Wisteria likes full sun (6 + hours per day) but will soldier along in part shade (2-6 hours of direct sunlight). Blooming might be a problem if it is overly shaded. It will do well in either clay or loam but good drainage of moist, occasionally wet soil is important. Wisteria also likes acid soil with pH tending toward 6.0 which is why it does well on a moist forest border. It acts as a host for larval forms of several butterflies and functions as an important nectar source for both bees and butterflies. American wisteria is relatively resistant to most pests, although honey fungus can be a problem as are a number of chewing insects. Deer and rabbits don’t usually consider wisteria as their first choice on the menu. Flowering usually occurs in the second or third year although not always, so be patient! Failure to bloom may be due to too much shade as we said, so choose your site well. Wisteria frutescens does not like to be transplanted. Frost damage or over fertilization may sometimes be the causes of non-flowering. A judicious application of 10-10-10 in the spring usually suffices. Also, since it is hardy only to Zone 5A, it might be prudent to mulch heavily in the fall in a southern Minnesota garden. Some nice cultivars to look for in your local nursery include “Alba” and “Nivea” with white flowers, “Magnifica” and “Swantly Purple”. “Amethyst Falls” produces a lovely, lightly fragrant lavender-purple bloom. Pruning should usually be done in the spring after flowering to control the size and spread of the plant. American wisteria does well as an accent to native or pollinator gardens especially on slopes, banks or rock walls. Regardless of placement it will add a colorful, fragrant and, perhaps romantic element to your landscape. Photo Credit: USDA (1), Bev Wagar, NC State Extension (2)

< Back Holiday Cacti Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are beautiful flowering holiday plants Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are two beautiful flowering holiday plants. They are often given as gifts during the festivities. Believe it or not, these plants are native to Brazil, but have been a favorite indoor plant in the United States for many years. They can live a very long time (100+ years). Some people have trouble getting them to bloom and there are a few tricks one needs to be aware of to produce healthy, vibrant blooms. First, holiday cacti like high humidity and bright, filtered light. They need relatively moist soil with 1 part potting soil, 2 parts peat moss and 1 part sand. They do not tolerate standing in water or extreme cold air drafts. Holiday cacti, however, do need shorter days and cooler nights in order to produce blooms. Placing plants in a cool, bright location where daytime temperatures are 65-70 degrees and evening temperatures are 55-65 degrees will encourage bud development after approximately 5-6 weeks. Once the plants have bloomed, reduce the frequency of watering until spring when there is more active growth. These plants are relatively easy to take care of if you follow these instructions. If you are having trouble with your plants blooming there are usually 3 possible causes (assuming the plant is healthy): Indoor air is too warm: lower the room temperature to 55-65 degrees at night, 60-65 degrees during the day. Plant days are too long: this is usually not an issue in Minnesota if near a window but one can put the plant in total darkness for a minimum of 12 hours. Plant does not have enough nutrients to produce buds. Fertilize the plant at half strength with a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium (0-15-10). For a more comprehensive article about these plants, check out this website: Common Issues with Holiday Cacti Photo credit: Janelle Reitz-Kamenar

< Back Early Spring Blooming Plants Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. CROCUS is one of the first bulb plants to peak its head up in early spring. They are a very reliable plant and frost tolerant. They grow 3-6” tall and are available in multiple colors in shades of purple, orange, pink, and white. They like full sun to part shade and prefer a slightly neutral soil pH of 6.0-7.0, but well-draining soil is very important. DAFFODILS are also an early spring plant best known for their bright yellow trumpet shaped flower. They grow in clumps and unlike tulip bulbs, they have little appeal to wildlife. Planting them amongst snowdrops, hyacinths and tulips provides a wonderful array of colors. They tolerate full sun to part shade with a slightly neutral pH soil (6.0-7.0). DWARF IRIS is a fragrant miniature plant that blooms early in the season and grows to about 6-8”. They bloom in two waves in various shades of dark to light blue, and purple making them ideal for borders. They prefer full sun to part shade, good soil drainage, and spread through underground rhizomatous stems filling the garden with beautiful spring blooms. HYACINTH loves full sun to part shade in a well-drained soil with pH close to neutral (7.0). This plant is well suited to Zones 4-8 and range in height from 6-12”. This plant has a very fragrant flower with tiny blooms resembling bunches of grapes. TULIPS bloom early in the spring season along with daffodils and crocus. They do best in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5. Colors include orange, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and numerous multi colors that grow to 12-18” tall. EASTER LILY – Lilies are very flamboyant with beautiful flowers and an intensely sweet fragrance. Easter lilies are white in color although there are numerous types of lilies such as Asiatic and Oriental hybrids that come in many colors. The lily is an upright perennial that ranges in height from 2-8’ tall. Don’t forget, once that easter lily is done blooming, cut the stems down and plant the bulb in the garden so you can enjoy it again next spring. Lilies grow best in slightly alkaline (6.5-7.0) moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter. Fall is the time to plant the bulbs for most of these plants, so, if you haven’t planted any of these spring delights in your garden yet, I hope you are inspired to do so this year. Then look forward to a rainbow of color in the spring. Photo Credits: Carolyn Plank (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Julie Weisenhorn, University of Minnesota Extension (3), Woodies Garden Goods (4 - Creative Commons License) (4), Pixnio (Creative Commons License) (5), MaxPixel (Creative Commons License) (6)

< Back Delectable Strawberry Shortcake (and a Bonus Rosemary Recipe) Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s August and our gardens are in full growth mode, what a delightful exciting growing time of year. One of the most popular fruits that are ripening now is strawberries. Joy Johnson offers a mouthwatering recipe for strawberry shortcake. And – a repeat of a former favorite rosemary recipe. What a great time of year for eating fresh food in Minnesota! It’s August and our gardens are in full growth mode, what a delightful exciting growing time of year. I had doubled the size of my vegetable garden this spring and am enjoying even more abundance of fresh fruits and veggies. Unfortunately, last year’s torrential rains wiped out my raspberry and strawberry patch, so I don’t have any of my own berries this year. I am thankful so many people share their bounty at local farmers markets because one of my all-time favorites is strawberry shortcake. Here is a recipe for whole wheat shortcakes, they are heartier than the lightweight store-bought chiffon cakes. I prefer them and enjoy serving them in a bowl and adding a little almond milk to the bottom for the short cake to soak up. Since I planted blueberry bushes last spring, I enjoy a sprinkling of those on top of the whipped cream. You can never have too many berries! Strawberry Shortcakes Ingredients: 1-quart strawberries, cored and sliced 1 cup sugar 1/3 cup shortening 2 cups white whole wheat flour 2 tablespoons sugar 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt ¾ cup almond milk Sweetened Whipped Cream Process: Mix strawberries with 1 cup sugar; let stand 1 hour. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Cut shortening into flour, 2 T. sugar, the baking powder and salt until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in milk just until blended Gently smooth dough into a ball on lightly floured board. Knead a bit, until it’s well combined, but not sticky Roll out gently to about ½ inch thick Fold the dough over on itself and gently roll out again just to loosely stick the folded dough together. Cut with a knife or biscuit cutter into rounds or squares. Place about 1 inch apart on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake until golden brown, 10-12 minutes. Split apart while still warm, stack in a bowl with strawberries and whipped cream I met one of our new Master Gardener interns while working on a project team a couple weeks ago. We, of course, got to chatting about food and using herbs we grow. She requested a reprinting of my recipe for Rosemary Shortbread, since she wasn’t a Master Gardener when this recipe was first published in the Garden Buzz years ago. The Rosemary shortbread is a mouth-watering treat and definitely worth repeating. I hope you all enjoy it. Rosemary Shortbread Ingredients: 2 cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cup granulated sugar 1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon plus 1 pinch kosher salt 1 cup unsalted cold butter, cut into 1-inch chunks 1-2 teaspoons rosemary, chestnut or other dark, full-flavored honey Process: Heat oven to 325 degrees In a food processor, pulse together flour, sugar, rosemary and salt. Add butter and honey and pulse to fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until some crumbs start to come together, but don’t overprocess. Dough should not be smooth. Press dough into an ungreased 9-inch baking dish. Prick all over with a fork. Bake until gold brown, 35-40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Cut into squares, bars or wedges while still warm. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1), pixabay.com (2)

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