< Back Sedum in Your Fall Garden Tracey Scurto Autumn Joy Sedum is a perennial with thick, succulent leaves, fleshy stems, and clusters of star-shaped flowers. There are many varieties of Sedum. Adding them to your garden will extend interest and color well into the late Fall. Looking for the perfect plant that is easy on the eyes and provides beauty all year round? Then maybe adding Sedum to your garden or containers is the answer. All gardeners, from beginners to seasoned professionals, can find a place for Sedum in their gardening plans. This diverse group of plants has many varieties, and even in September and October, Sedums will bring color and interest to any landscape. One of the most popular and easiest Sedum to grow is Autumn Joy . Its dramatic presence can be used in a variety of ways. Use it as a backdrop for other early blooming perennials or plant it center stage where its beauty will create a pleasing focal point. Autumn Joy’s popularity for use in containers is expanding due to its rich fall color, which is a perfect complement to any autumn themed planter. Though popular in the fall, this reliable bloomer looks fantastic all year round. In late spring its thick stem starts to appear with a sturdy uniformed look that has a stunning polished appearance. The flower heads, composed of mini blossoms, appear in early August and can remain vibrant through November. The bloom’s first color appears in a pale pink and then slowly develops as the weeks progress into a deep shade of copper. When other perennials are fading, Autumn Joy hits its stride. During September and October its large flower heads are in full bloom. These late bloomers are also a fall favorite for bees and butterflies and help extend the pollen that is available in your garden. If left standing, Autumn Joy looks exceptional, even after first frost. By forgoing deadheading, it will provide a good source of food for birds and provide year end interest. This easy to care for perennial prefers full sun and well-drained soil. It is drought tolerant and in fact prefers dryer conditions. Autumn Joy can be pinched back in the spring to encourage bushier growth and prevent flopping. Any variety of Sedum can be a wonderful addition to any gardener’s pallet. It is easy to grow, extremely hardy and drought tolerant. Autumn Joy is a favorite of many gardeners for its vibrant fall color. With so many varieties to choose from, you will be able to find one best suited for you. Can’t decide? Plant an entire garden bed of different varieties of Sedum! It will not disappoint. Photo credits: Tracey Scurto (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Black Spruce (Picea mariana): A Northwoods Native Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains, you don’t need to go to the Rhine country in Germany to see a cathedral of natural majesty. This month, Jim profiles the mighty and beautiful Black Spruce (pices mariana). Black Spruce is native to Minnesota and can grow to 50-100 feet under the right environmental conditions. But other varieties have been developed for landscape use. Read on to learn more about this magnificent conifer. Last spring we toured the Rhine country of Germany. The majestic twin spires of the Cathedral of Cologne couldn’t help but remind me of the North Country of Minnesota. In that cathedral of the Northwoods, the spires of Pices mariana (black spruce) soar skyward in quiet majesty. They are native to the northern Midwest and grow well throughout Central and Upper Minnesota. They require full sun and are quite sensitive to shading. Black Spruce is a slow-growing conifer and prefers moist environments. It is often found in bogs and other wetlands. a stand of Black Spruce Black Spruce vary in height depending on the environment, ranging from 15 to 50 feet in height, although some can push to 100 feet. The leaves are needle-like and seed cones are small, ½ to 1 ½ inches long, dark purple ripening to reddish brown. They are produced in dense clusters in the upper crown, opening at maturity but persisting for several years. needles and young cones The roots of black spruce are shallow and spread widely. Consequently, the tree is susceptible to wind-throw. Perhaps the most spectacular example was the 1999 July 4 th Boundary Waters Blowdown or derecho. Aerial view of the 1999 Blowdown A number of cultivars have been developed for landscape use. The cultivar P. mariana ‘Nana’ is a dwarf form that has gained in popularity. If you are looking for one of these stately trees, they are hard to find in nurseries but can readily be grown from seed. They do transplant well. So, with a bit of patience, you can inexpensively generate a handsome stand of black spruce. Photo Credits: Daniel Case, Wikipedia (1,2), Quetico Superior Wilderness News (3)

< Back Taking Care of and Protecting Trees Before Winter Sarah Heidtke, Master Gardener Trees add value in several ways: they have a cooling effect by shading homes during the warmer months, add property value, absorb carbon dioxide, and generally help lower stress levels of those around them. Here in Minnesota, our trees need some extra care going into winter. Read on for ways to help get them ready! Our trees in Dakota County are subjected to a wide range of elements - wide temperature and humidity swings, sun exposure, strong winds and of course lots of hungry wildlife. Many trees, especially native trees , have evolved to survive all of the seasons in Minnesota. That said, we can take steps to prepare them for the winter season now. Newly planted trees in particular will benefit with some extra care to help them out this time of year. Protect the roots Cover the root zone of newly planted trees (within last 2-3 years) with 3-4 inches of shredded wood mulch to insulate the soil (snow cover on top will help insulate more). Keep mulch about 6 inches away from trunk - think “donut” not “volcano” of mulch - (this prevents unintended roots from forming and ultimately girdling the tree). If the fall has been dry, as we’ve experienced recently in Minnesota, continue to water about once a week until the ground freezes. Read more about watering newly planted trees here . Look for cracks in the soil around new trees and fill any you find with soil. This will help to keep cold air out over the winter. Protect against damage from the sun and wind For both deciduous and evergreen trees, the energy from the sun (even in the cold of winter) can warm trees up enough to stimulate activity. The tree then loses moisture above ground without being able to draw up new water through frozen soil by the roots so the tissues dry out and can be damaged. Any new growth is at risk of dying back when the tree cools off again. Trees planted without shelter from winter winds are even more susceptible to moisture loss. For deciduous trees, protect the bark from winter sun and wind. A light-colored commercial tree wrap or plastic guard (not brown paper or black plastic) will reflect the sun and help to keep the bark at a more consistent temperature. Wrap newly planted trees for first two winters (and up to five winters if the species has thin bark such as a maple tree). Remove the wrap in the spring after the last frost so the tree can get back to healthy growing. As the tree matures, the bark thickens and protects it better from sun scald. This tree at Mendakota Park has white wrap around the trunk, a bag to water the tree’s roots slowly, and a stake with a loose twine attached to a guard around the trunk to prevent too much rocking in the wind without rubbing on the bark. All of this is a great set up for success! For evergreen trees, it is a very good idea to protect the tree from drying winds and winter sun. Cover with trimmed evergreen boughs after the holiday season or wrap with burlap or a similar material. Remember to leave the top open enough for air circulation and some indirect light penetration. Providing winter protection for newly planted Arbor Vitae Try to minimize tree damage from wildlife Hungry mice, rabbits, voles and deer can cause a lot of damage to trees and shrubs in your landscape over the winter! Begin by reducing habitat in the fall - cut grasses and other vegetation short in late fall within two feet of young trees, and remove piles of brush in order to take away protective cover for rodents. Don’t let them get comfortable in your yard when it’s cold outside. Then, you can put up a physical barrier by creating a cylinder of 1/4 inch mesh hardware cloth around the tree trunk. Keep the cylinder at least 6 inches away from the trunk (more if you want to enclose low hanging branches) to avoid causing damage. Extend 2-3 inches under the soil if you are trying to keep mice away, 18 to 24 inches above the expected snow line in order to deter rabbits. If deer are hungry enough, it’s hard to keep them away. As a protected species, the best strategies are removing comfortable areas to bed down and physical barriers. Just like in the growing seasons, a high (8-12 ft) fence is generally needed to keep them away completely. Repellents available at farm and garden stores can provide some help for deterring both deer and rabbits. What about pruning and fertilizing trees in the fall? With some exceptions, it is best to prune most trees at the end of winter while they are still dormant (with some exceptions for flowering and fruiting trees). However, obviously broken or diseased limbs can be removed in the fall - especially once leaves have dropped and you can see the damage. Read more about pruning here . Lastly, be mindful of fertilizing trees, especially newly planted ones. A burst of vigorous growth right before a freeze can be easily damaged, so it’s generally best to wait to apply until spring (sandy soils) or late in fall, once the tree is dormant (heavy soils). It is a fine sight to see new buds sprouting on trees in the spring. Help your trees along through the winter, especially those that are newly planted by: - Insulating their roots from cold and fluctuating temperatures with a good layer of mulch - Protecting bare deciduous trees and the foliage of evergreens from sun and wind damage - Making sure they get enough water through rain and supplemental irrigation up until the ground freezes. - Do what you can to help them defend against hungry critters For more in depth information, refer to the University of Minnesota Extension website here: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: Sarah Heidtke (all)

< Back The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants: Written By Neil Diboll and Hilary Cox Interested in prairie plants for your garden or just to admire? Jim Lakin reviews one of the most indispensable books on the subject – “The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants.” The book includes photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. But this book also contains more valuable information. Reviewed By Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener One might wonder about the need for another guide to prairie plants when so many excellent volumes are in print. Two of the most notable are from the pen of our own Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Director of Operations, Alan Branhagen. [1] , [2] Yet Diboll and Cox’s, The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants, is unique in its contents and provides a valuable addition to the library of all those interested in and working with native plants of the Midwest. To be sure, the book contains the indispensable “Prairie Species Field Guide” with a plethora of photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. For those of us with extensive woodlands nearby, the inclusion of “Deer Palatability” is greatly appreciated. What makes this volume a uniquely desirable addition to the literature, however, is its copious theoretical and practical information. Chapters devoted to the history and ecology of the prairie, soil variations and their effect on prairie plants and the prairie food web provide valuable background. On a more practical level, the book discusses the mechanics of working with prairie plants. Designing, planting and maintaining prairie gardens is explained. Establishing a prairie meadow and rejuvenating it through a controlled burn are extensively treated. A very interesting chapter discusses propagating prairie plants from seed, a subject with many nuances. Finally, a compendium of valuable tables elaborate plant habitats and characteristics, wildlife attracted, plants for dry, medium and wet soils by bloom time (a valuable resource for our warming Upper Midwest) as well as listings of plants by bloom color and sun/shade preference. In all, Diboll and Cox have given us a powerful resource for the planning, planting and preservation of an increasingly vital component of our threatened ecology —native plants. [1] Branhagen, A., Native Plants of the Midwest, Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2016. [2] Branhagen, A., The Midwest Native Plant Primer, Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2020. Photo credit: book cover

< Back Sugar maple (Acer saccharum): A Sweetheart Year ‘Round Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener With this article, Jim Lakin is launching a series on native Minnesota trees. The first of these trees is the sugar maple. Few native trees are as iconic as the sugar maple. This tree has so many attractive characteristics that it is widely revered across many northern states. In this article, you will learn why you might want a sugar maple in your yard and how to give it the care that it needs to become a beautiful specimen tree. Few native trees are as iconic as the sugar maple. As a kid, I was fascinated by those hearty Vermonters tapping this noble tree for its sugary sap, boiling it down to the delicious maple syrup that graced my morning pancakes. Indeed, the sugar maple is so much a part of Americana that it is the official tree of no less than four states—New York, Vermont, Wisconsin and West Virginia. Its leaf graces the center of Canada’s flag. Also reflecting is ubiquity in folk usage, it is known alternately as "rock maple," "sugar tree," "sweet maple," "hard maple," "bird’s eye maple," or "curly maple”. As you might expect for such a noble species, its distribution is wide ranging from the Eastern Seaboard, westward into central Minnesota, Iowa, the Ozarks and up the Missouri River Valley into Kansas. Sugar maple is shade tolerant, so it quickly gains a foothold in the understory of mesic woodlands. It can be grown from seed, if you are patient. However, if you are transplanting a sapling, be sure that your specimen is locally sourced. It is a highly variant plant and adapts to local conditions stringently. An “outsider” will often not fare as well as one of the natives of the area. The sugar maple is a fine shade tree albeit a huge one. When siting your planting be aware that it can ultimately grow to 60 to 100 feet in height with a circumference that will vary depending on its neighbors. Although it can grow and dominate an understory, it doesn’t stay there! Another consideration is that it is a deciduous tree. All those wonderful red-yellow fall leaves will drop come winter. Also, in the spring you’ll see a vigorous production of samaras, pairs of winged seeds. So, if you are trying to maintain one of those squeaky-clean suburban lawns, keep your rake at-the-ready! Sugar Maple is a long-lived tree, persisting for 200 years and occasionally 300. It will bear seeds at about 30 years and should not be tapped for sap until about 50 years of age. Since it does require a hard frost for proper dormancy, it is not seen in proliferation beyond USDA zones 3 to 5. Although well-adapted to its native environment, human activity has taken a toll on the sugar maple population. Air pollution, acid rain and soil acidification have decimated many populations. Street salting has destroyed sugar maples as street trees, leading to their replacement with the more tolerant non-native Norway Maple. Givern these limitations, however, the sugar maple will grow well in a variety of soils, although good drainage is a must. It is not a flood plain tree. It is a fairly rapid grower, so in a few years with relatively little care, you will be rewarded with a luscious shade-tree and a glorious blaze of fall color. Photo Credits: https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37003644 (1), https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37003638 (2)

< Back The Herbal Kitchen By Kami McBride The Herbal Kitchen by Kamie McBride is a tremendous resource and beautifully written guide to expanding your herbal repertoire. Fifty herbs and spices are discussed with tips for preparing, storing, and using them, and over 250 recipes will have you inspired to add more herbs to your garden (what's one more bed?!) Read the full review to learn more! Reviewed by Kelly Vriezen, Master Gardener Herbs are a gift from nature. We grow them and enjoy their irresistible aromas and beautiful colors in delicious food, and sometimes we use them to support our overall health in other ways. You are probably already aware that ginger and peppermint soothe upset tummies, turmeric helps arthritis, and lavender and chamomile aid relaxation. Fresh basil and oregano can’t be beat for making homemade sauces burst with flavor. In The Herbal Kitchen, by Kamie McBride, you will find a tremendous resource and beautifully written guide to expanding your herbal repertoire. Fifty herbs and spices are discussed with tips for preparing, storing, and using them. Over 250 recipes will have you inspired to add more herbs to your garden (what's one more bed?) Whether you are just starting out on the herbal path or you are already familiar with herbs, there are recipes for everyone. You'll find cordials, salts, refreshing drinks, vinegars, infusions, sprinkles, baths and foot soaks, seasonal meal ideas, and more to inspire you to make herbs part of your daily routine. You will be eager to try new things and discover new ways of experiencing familiar flavors as Ms. McBride discusses what they do to bolster health even when just used to season our food. This book is a great read for anyone who enjoys cooking and wants to expand their knowledge of kitchen spices or add new ways to incorporate great flavor into everyday meals that also promote health. Photo credits: Amazon (1), Amanda Kae/Flickr (2)

< Back Bright, Fresh and Easy Spring Salad Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener There is nothing like a fresh salad made from ingredients grown in your own yard. If you were as ambitious as our author, Master Gardener Joy Johnson, and started your own lettuces earlier this year, you could enjoy this spring salad with your home-grown lettuce. Not to worry though, this salad can be enjoyed with grocery-bought, or perhaps, farmers markets ingredients also. This salad says – welcome spring! Spring is in full bloom and since I was anxious to get my garden started back in March, I have a bounty of young spring greens and lettuces, along with herbs to enjoy fresh from the garden. There is nothing like a fresh salad made from your own yard. I hope you enjoy a bowl full of this while sitting and watching your garden grow. A fellow master gardener in Dakota County has an orange tree that grows in a large pot (also a lemon and a lime tree). She diligently drags them outside to her patio each spring and hauls them into her attached greenhouse area off the kitchen each fall. She’s probably the only person I know who could use the fresh ripe oranges off her tree for this salad. The rest of us will have to make do with the canned ones. Mandarin Orange Salad Salad Ingredients Approx. 2 cups mandarin orange slices 5 ounces mixed baby greens, whatever fresh lettuce you have 1/3 cup dried cranberries 1/2 cup almonds (chopped, slivered, or sliced) Approx. 2 Tbsp fresh mint (torn or chopped) 1/4 cup crumbled goat cheese Salt + pepper, to taste Lemon dressing ingredients : 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 a lemon, juice 1 Tbsp white wine vinegar 1/2 tsp garlic powder Salt + pepper, to taste Instructions PREP ORANGES: If using fresh mandarin oranges, peel them well, removing as much of the white pith as desired. If using canned oranges, drain the orange slices from the liquid they are stored in. MAKE DRESSING: Combine all dressing ingredients together in a small jar or bowl. Shake or whisk to combine. PLATE SALAD: Plate salad on a large serving platter or bowl. Start with baby greens as the base, following with orange slices, dried cranberries, almonds, mint, and crumbled goat cheese. If you are using fresh goat cheese (I am spoiled to have a daughter who milks goats and makes cheese, you can drop little dollops on the salad after you’ve tossed it with the dressing). Season with salt and pepper, as desired. TOSS IN DRESSING: Toss salad in lemon dressing right before serving. Credits: Recipe from Walderwellness, https://www.walderwellness.com/mandarin-orange-salad/ Photo credits: Walderwellnes.com , Carrie Walder, MS, RD, registered dietician (1), www.publicdomainpictures.net (2)

< Back Green Beans for the Holidays – Should You Plant Pole or Bush Green Beans Next Year? Are you one of the 20 million people who enjoyed green bean casserole for Thanksgiving dinner? If you plant green beans in your garden this summer, you can preserve and use your home-grown green beans in your next Thanksgiving meal. In this article, you will learn more about your green bean planting options and how to choose which beans to grow and enjoy. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Many of us choose to adorn our holiday tables with the classic Green Bean Casserole (French cut green beans, fried onions, and mushroom soup). For trivia types, this casserole was first created in 1955 by Dorcas Reilly while employed at the Campbell Soup Company. As of 2020, Campbells estimated that approximately 20 million U. S. Thanksgiving dinners include this dish each year. That’s a lot of beans! And a reason to contemplate growing green beans next gardening season and then freezing them for the holiday season. Read more to determine if you should plant the Pole or Bush type green beans. Green Beans are also referred to as Snap Beans or String Beans and are a member of the wax bean family. And not to confuse people, but string beans can also be yellow, red, striped, and even purple (the purple disappears when cooked)! Growing green beans in your garden has many benefits; to name a few: · Easy to grow especially for young children as the larger seed size makes it easier to plant and the long green bean makes it easier for them to see to harvest; · Excellent companion plant to tomatoes as they put nitrogen back into the soil; · Can be grown in smaller spaces but require full sun; and · Excellent source of nutrition (low in calories, high in antioxidants including Vitamin C and fiber). In general, there are two types of these beans for gardeners to consider: Pole vs. Bush beans. Pole Beans, simply put, are vining plants which must be supported by a trellis, pole, or fence. They can grow up to 6 to 7 feet long. Bush beans are low growing plants that grow 1 to 2 feet tall only. So which type is better to plant: Advantages of Bush Beans: · No trellis or pole is required; · Great for compacted, raised beds; · Have a shorter production time (usually harvest within 50 to 55 days vs. 55 to 65 days for pole beans) · Produce all their beans within a short time (2 to 3 weeks) which is great for freezing and can stagger planting times for additional harvests Advantages of Pole Beans: · More productive than bush beans (in a 10-foot row space, pole beans can yield 8 pounds of produce compared to bush beans at 4 to 5 pounds) · Have a longer harvest window if you prefer to eat them fresh (continually harvest them). · Less susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew · Have a better flavor than bush beans (sweeter and starchier) · Easier to harvest (gives your back a break) · Excellent companion plant to corn and squash/cucumber or with a teepee system you can plant lettuce, parsley, or radishes in the center. So, while you are enjoying your holiday feast, remember to dream about the upcoming planting season and decide if you are going to plant pole vs. bush string beans next year! Sources: · Green Bean Casserole, Wikipedia.org · WebMD Health Benefits of Green Beans. November 28, 2022 · JohnnySeeds.com About Pole Beans · Iowa State Extension and Outreach, Which is more productive, bush or pole green beans? Photo credits: www.Flickr.com (1,2), Davidbach.net , All Creative Commons (3)

< Back Pickling From Garden Glut to Gut Garden Scott Soltis, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern You know that feeling. It started in the springtime with two innocent-looking seedlings. But now it's August and your kitchen has the look of a staging ground for an Audrey's botanical invasion. You’ve given cucumbers to your neighbors, your mail carrier, and possibly a confused delivery driver. And yet, the vines keep producing. Welcome to the Gardener’s Dilemma and it’s something that humans have been facing since the dawn of civilization, just how do we preserve the fall harvest. Of course, one of the answers to that question is Pickling. Read on to learn all about the how-to’s and the benefits of pickling your harvest. Assorted pickle pile. Photo Credit pickpik.com Note with any kitchen project, the freshness of the ingredients greatly impacts the final product. Don’t let picked vegetables sit in the fridge for days before processing them. Pick your pail of pickles on the day you plan to pickle. Welcome to the Gardener’s Dilemma and it’s something that humans have been facing since the dawn of civilization, just how do we preserve the fall harvest. Of course, one of the answers to that question is Pickling. What Is Pickling? To pickle is actually one of the oldest methods of food preservation, knowledge of which goes back to the early Greek and Chinese cultures. At its root, pickling is the process of preserving a fruit or vegetable in order to extend its shelf life through the use of acids such as vinegar or a brine. Or put another way, through fermentation or non-fermentation methods. Method 1: Quick (unfermented) pickles are made in one or two days by adding acid in the form of vinegar. It is critical to add enough vinegar to prevent bacterial growth. Note: with this method, we are not actually canning the pickles in a water bath. While many people think of water bath canning as the pickling process, the truth is that is an additional step only done to preserve the food further and is not a requirement to produce pickles. Method 1: The Quick Pickle Effort level - My six-year-old can do it, literally Shelf Life - Maybe 1-2 months (in the fridge) Key Factor - Hot vinegar brine; instant gratification. Photo Credit: Scott Soltis Photo Credit: Scott Soltis Water, vinegar, salt, spices and cucumbers from Costco meet the jar. So easy, my six-year-old did it. Note: only a third of the cucumbers were eaten in the making of. I consider that a win. Method 2: Brined (fermented) pickles . (4) These require several weeks of “curing” at room temperature. During this period, colors and flavors change. Acid is produced as lactic acid bacteria grow. Again, no canning in a water bath as that would kill the beneficial bacteria. Lactic acid is what we use to prevent growth of botulism. Method 2: Lacto-Fermented Effort level - Back to my six-year-old child labor. Self-Life - Months (Fridge). Probably all winter. Key Factor - Healthy gut bacteria while balancing effort with shelf life. Photo Credit: Scott Soltis The 5% brine rule (3). Photo Credit: Scott Soltis To keep the "bad" bacteria out while letting the "good" Lactobacillus thrive, you need a specific salinity. A common standard is a 5% brine solution. You can calculate the required salt (S) based on the water weight (W) using: S=W×0.05 For long-term shelf stability (especially if canning), we aim for an acidity level of pH<4.6. This environment is too acidic for harmful pathogens to survive. (9) To Pickle or Not to Pickle. Was there ever a Question. Obviously, in today’s modern kitchen, food preservation is mainly done through the refrigerator but that doesn’t negate the benefits of still preserving food through older known methods such as pickling. Other reasons include: A Flavor Transformation Through the process of either fermentation or acid immersion, large, bland starch and protein molecules are broken down. They transition into simple sugars and amino acids. This is the secret behind that elusive "umami" hit—that savory, mouth-watering quality that makes a pickle more than just a sour cucumber. The Gut Health Factor If you choose the traditional fermentation route, you aren't just making a snack; you’re cultivating a colony. Traditional pickling creates probiotics, beneficial bacteria that support your microbiome. It’s one of the few instances where "controlled spoilage" actually makes you healthier. Sense of Accomplishment A lot of people like to do something because it's fun and fulfilling. Yes, we can simply hop on over to the grocery store; but like the home garden itself, there is still something to be said for doing it yourself. Before you try pickling at home, get educated You don’t have to utilize the water bath process. Quick refrigerator pickles are probably some of the easiest and most often used methods to get pickles quickly. Take a container or jar, cut up your veggies, pour in the vinegar-water brine, add your herbs and spices, put it in the refrigerator overnight, and enjoy the next day. Once you master the basic cucumber, the entire garden becomes your playground. Try pickling red onions for tacos, green beans (Dilly Beans) for Bloody Marys, or shaved carrots for salads. Other common pickled vegetables include: Sauerkraut / Carrots / Okra / Asparagus / Beets / Peppers / Whole Mushrooms / Summer squash / Turnips / You get the idea Photo Credit: https://docs.midjourney.com/hc/en-us/articles/33329261836941-Getting-Started-Guide ] Pickling vegetables can be both tasty and colorful. Pickling isn't just another chore on your gardening to-do list; it’s a way to transform a seasonal surplus into a year-round gourmet pantry. It’s about making your hard work "obviously delicious" with minimal effort. By learning this timeless technique, you’ll waste less, eat better, and enjoy more flavorful meals every day. So why wait? Addendum: The "Quick Pickle" Refrigerator Method If you want pickles today (or at least by tomorrow), this is your golden ticket. The refrigerator method uses a hot vinegar brine to rapidly infuse the vegetables with flavor. The 3-2-1 Formula (5): 3 Parts Water 2 Parts Vinegar (White or Apple Cider will do) 1 part Sugar (Adjustable based on your sweet tooth) Extra - Add spice or other flavor such as garlic and onion as your taste prefers. Add a pinch of salt and your vibe seasonings, think smashed garlic cloves, fresh dill heads, peppercorns, or even a dried chili for some heat. The Process: Bring your brine to a simmer, pour it over your sliced cucumbers in a jar, and close the lid. Rule: Let it marinate in the fridge for at least a week. While they look ready in an hour, patience is the only truly "hard" part of this process. References: Pickpik.com . Assorted Pickle Pile https://nchfp.uga.edu/papers/guide/GUIDE06_HomeCan_rev0715.pdf https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/ferment/general-information-on-fermenting/general-information-on-fermenting/ https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/pickle/general-information-pickling/general-information-on-pickling/ https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pnw-355-pickling-vegetables https://extension.oregonstate.edu/food/preservation https://www.almanac.com/how-to-pickle AI generated An Assorted pickled vegetables in glass jars lined up on a wooden shelf against a dark background https://nchfp.uga.edu/papers/guide/GUIDE06_HomeCan_rev0715.pdf

< Back Winter is a Perfect Time to Start Seeds Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. Read this article to learn the why, what. how and when for starting your own plants. On a chilly February day, the thought of blossoming flowers and growing vegetables seems like a far-off dream. Despite this, February is the perfect month to begin planning your summer garden and organizing a plan for indoor seed starting. WHY: Many annuals need an early start in order to maximize their blooming time in summer. Long-growing vegetables need to be started indoors in order to be harvested before the first frost. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: seed trays and potting mix seeds, of course! heat mats to raise the temperature of your soil seed tray covers to help maintain humidity and temperature (or plastic wrap) grow lights (optional) plug-in timers for grow light WHAT: Not all plants benefit from being started as seeds indoors. Many are at their best when sown directly. Always check your seed packets to see what is recommended for each plant. HOW: PREPARE your setup with a heating mat under your seed tray, filled with potting mix and covered by a humidity dome. Grow lights can be plugged into timers in order to mimic long summer days, with 12+ hours of light, but do not plug your heating mat into a timer—heat should be on at all times. PLANT your seeds according to the seed packet instructions, WATER, and COVER your tray with your humidity dome. WATCH your seeds germinate and grow! The first growth you will see are not true leaves, but cotyledons. All plants are categorized by these: a seedling with one is called a monocot and a seedling with two is called a dicot. ADJUST the closeness of your grow light to your seedlings—about 4” is best! If your light is too far away from the seedlings, they grow tall, spindly, and weak as they strive to get closer to the light. These “leggy” seedlings often will not survive, so prevent your seedlings from reaching that state. WATER as needed, and also remove the humidity covers as needed. Too much humidity can create an environment in which molds can grow. THIN seedlings as needed. If many seedlings are too close together, they will not grow at their best. FERTILIZE only once a week, and use fertilizer mixed at only ¼ strength. TRANSPLANT seedlings into larger containers as they grow. As you move them, lift by the root ball by using a spoon or plant tag for support. Never hold by the stem, but if necessary to steady the plant, lightly hold the plant by a leaf. HARDEN OFF seedlings when it is a few weeks before they will be moved out of doors. Each day, set plants outside for a few hours in the warmth of the afternoon. Begin by placing them in the shade for a short time, and gradually increase their exposure to the sun until you’re ready to transplant them to the garden. MOVE plants outdoors! WHEN: This can be the most daunting aspect of seed starting! If you are planting several different things, this can feel a bit like a juggling act. Grab a notebook and a pen to jot down notes from your seed packets on how many “days to harvest” or “days to bloom” for each plant. Consider making yourself a seed-starting calendar to keep beside your trays. Specific varieties will vary, but in general, you can follow these guidelines: EARLY FEBRUARY (14-15 weeks indoors): geraniums, pansies, leeks, onions LATE FEBRUARY (12-13 weeks indoors): dusty miller, larkspur, lobelia, celery EARLY MARCH (10-11 weeks indoors): coleus, dahlia, heliotrope, petunias, rudbeckia, snapdragons, verbena, broccoli Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce LATE MARCH (8-9 weeks indoors): cleome, hollyhocks, phlox, alyssum, eggplant, okra, peppers EARLY APRIL (5-7 weeks indoors): amaranthus, aster, bachelor buttons, calendula, morning glory, ornamental basil and kale, tomatoes LATE APRIL (3-4 weeks indoors): cosmos, sweet peas, zinnias, sweet potatoes As always, you will learn what works and what doesn’t work in your own garden by trying things out. There isn’t only one correct way to practice indoor seed starting, and everyone’s set-up is a little different. For more information about growing plants from seed in your home, visit the Dakota County Master Gardener You Tube site. Here is one “how-to” video . Happy planting! Photo Credit: Valerie Rogotzke (1), Jim Lakin (2,3)

< Back How to Choose a Tomato Plant for Your Garden The long, hot, sunny days of Minnesota summers are great for growing tomatoes and Minnesotans love to grow their own fresh tomatoes. This is the first in a series the Garden Buzz will be featuring on all things tomato. Our topic this month is choosing the right tomatoes for your needs. Choosing a tomato plant can be confusing and involve time consuming searches through hundreds of varieties looking for the right one for you. Hopefully, this article will help you wade through your options. Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener The long, hot, sunny days of Minnesota summers are great for growing tomatoes and Minnesotans love to grow their own fresh tomatoes. But choosing a tomato plant can be confusing and involve time consuming searches through hundreds of varieties looking for the right one for you. For example, here are just some of the options you have to pick from: Determinate or indeterminate? Heirloom or hybrid? Disease resistant or disease tolerant? Big, with little tomatoes already growing, or small, not even flowers? We will wade through all these questions and help you decide the best tomato plant for YOU. First, how are you going to use your tomatoes? Salads, sandwiches, cooking, preserving and easy fresh eating all have preferred varieties. For salads and sandwiches choose large, juicy varieties like Beefsteak , Brandywine , Better Boy or Cherokee Purple . For cooking and preserving choose meaty, low-water-content varieties that ripen all at once, such as Roma , San Marzano , or Amish Paste . For easy, fresh eating choose sweet, bite-sized cherry or grape tomatoes like Sun Gold or Super Sweet 100 . Photo Credit: www.davenportgarden.com Brandywine tomato Second, how much space do you have? Tomato plants have two main growth habits: Determinate or bush growth and indeterminate or vining growth. Bush tomatoes grow to a predetermined, compact height - around 3-4 feet, produce most of their fruit within a short period of time - 4-6 weeks, then stop producing. They are best for small spaces, containers and/or gardeners who want a large harvest all at once, for example, for canning. Bush tomatoes also include cherry tomato plants, such as the varieties Toy Boy and Small Fry . Vining tomatoes grow and produce fruit continuously until frost. They are best for large gardens and gardeners who want a steady stream of fresh tomatoes. These tomatoes all require support, like tall stakes or cages. Popular varieties include Big Beef , Beefsteak and Sweet 100s . Photo Credit: www.3porchfarm.com Big beef bush tomato Third: Heirloom or hybrid? Heirloom tomatoes are historical tomatoes (that is, “open pollinated” tomatoes meaning they can reproduce true to type). These are tomatoes that have been grown since before 1940 and their seeds saved and passed down through the years. Some heirlooms date back to the Aztecs, such as the Zapotec tomato. Photo Credit: farmhandseeds.com a Zapotec tomato Heirlooms tend to have thinner skins, more colors and flavor than hybrid varieties. Irregular shapes, sizes, and multi-colored or marbled skins characterize heirloom tomatoes. Brandywine and Mortgage Lifter are two highly recommended heirloom varieties. They are especially recommended for people who have not grown heirlooms before. Hybrid tomatoes are cross-bred and bred for specific traits. They tend to be uniform in size, disease resistant and with thicker skins - which means they can be transported long distances safely to parts of the country without access to fresh tomatoes. Popular hybrid varieties include Better Boy , Better Bush and Early Girl . Master Gardeners have been busy conducting seed trials and evaluating tomatoes since 1982. They have their own list of recommended varieties. Their criteria: flavor, disease and insect resistance, productivity and germination rate. Their list of best tomatoes: Brandymaster Red : one parent a hybrid and the other parent an heirloom Brandymaster Pink : one parent a hybrid and the other parent an heirloom) Brandy Boy : hybrid combining Brandywine with another, unnamed variety - developed by Burpee) (2nd place tie) Genuwine and Big Brandy : heirloom marriage tomatoes, tomatoes with two heirloom parents (4th place tie) Brandywine : heirloom tomato Early Spring : heirloom tomato For a list of places to buy heirloom tomatoes and/or seedlings go to: Seed Savers Exchange or https://www.google.com/Heirloom+tomatoes+Where+to+buy Fourth: Do you want disease resistant tomatoes? Consider how important disease resistant varieties are to you. If this is very important you probably want to consider hybrid tomatoes. A resistant variety will not become diseased. On the other hand, a tolerant variety may become diseased, but the spread of the disease will be slower and the disease will be less serious. Hybrid varieties with disease resistance are indicated by letters on the label: V = Verticillium wilt; F = Fusarium wilt; N = nematodes; T = Tobacco Mosaic Virus. Some disease resistant and tolerant varieties recommended by Cornell University’s breeding program are: Iron Lady , Stellar , Brandywine , Summer Sweetheart and Plum Perfect. And Last: What to look for when choosing the actual seedling or plant. Choose sturdy, stocky plants up to 1 foot tall with thick stems (pencil thickness) and bright green evenly spaced leaves. Avoid plants that are tall and lanky, have spots, or already have flowers or fruit. They may be stressed or root bound. Hopefully you will find this information helpful in choosing a tomato plant that suits YOUR needs. Enjoy! REFERENCES https://ucanr.edu/blog/over-fence-alameda-county/article/choosing-tomato-varieties-best-your-garden Beginners Guide to Choosing the Best Tomato Varieties for your Garden, Feb 24, 2004; www.themakermakes.com Choosing Tomato Varieties Best for Your Garden | Over the Fence , Mar 9, 2024, UC Agriculture and Natural Resources https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/master-gardener-seed-trials McKusick, Tom, Northern Gardner , https://northerngardener.org/day-27-favorite-heirloom-tomatoes/ https://www.burpee.com/heirloom/heirloom-tomatoes/?bp_mode=Plant https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties/new-york-adapted-tomatoes-with-resistance-to-multiple-fungal-and-bacterial-diseases-created-at-cornell/ https://vegvariety.cce.cornell.edu/main/login.php Photo Credits: www.davenportgarden.com (1), www.3porchfarm.com (2) , farmhandseeds.com (3)

< Back All About Upcycling By now, many of us have heard the phrase, “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Read on for ways to set up our youngest gardeners with good habits to “Reuse” or “Upcycle” what they already have. No purchase required! Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener What is “upcycling?” We can be kind to both nature and our pocketbooks by using fewer resources to make products ( reduce ) and reprocessing materials like metals, paper and plastic when we are done using products ( recycle ). What if we use things we already have and turn them into something else useful without having to buy more materials or use energy to recycle? Upcycling is the “ reuse ” part of “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” Lots of upcycling can happen right in our gardens! Here are some ways that you can upcycle with the children in your lives. You can have fun and teach them how to improve their environment. Soil: Composting is really upcycling. We take yard and kitchen waste, let it break down naturally, and reuse all of that nutrition right in our gardens to build up healthy soil! You can even upcycle a pail from the sandbox or the big plastic tub of animal crackers to carry scraps like banana peels, egg shells and apple cores to your compost pile or bin. Plants : Make more plants from what you have - sow a seed from your sunflower, divide perennials or propagate cuttings. Tools : A plastic milk jug with a few holes punched in the cap makes a great right-sized watering can. (I found that the pick from a nutcracker set worked well for this.) Take some crayons, markers or paints and decorate it any way you like! Another one of my favorite ways to upcycle is to use an odd plate as a saucer under plants: You can also make and decorate plant labels with popsicle sticks, straws, bottle tops or bottoms. Old forks and spoons are great for weeding and digging. An old sled or wagon is great for carrying branches, leaves, or new plants. Containers : Almost anything can be a container. Use a metal can as a vase for the flowers you picked; or to hold your tools. Poke a few holes in the bottom (with adult help) for drainage and plant some flower or vegetable seeds. Outgrow your rain boots? You can grow plants in them! Yogurt containers are great for starting seeds. You can also use a plastic bottle to make a self-watering planter: Take a look around before you go out and buy new - you may have most or all of what you need right at home to grow and play in the garden! Check out some of these great books from Dakota County Library for these and more upcycling ideas to do with kids: Play & Learn Activities for Babies by Hannah Fathi Make Plastic Fantastic, Over 25 Recycling Craft Projects by Sophia Bebb and Helen Robinson, Illustrated by Diego Valsberg and Martin Lowenstein Let’s Get Gardening, 30 Easy Gardening Projects for Children by DK Publishing Little Homesteader, A summer Treasury of Recipes, Crafts and Wisdom by Angela Ferraro-Fanning and Illustrated by Anneliesdraws Photo Credit: Sarah Heidtke (1,2,3,4,5)