< Back New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus): A Short Showy Shrub Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) is in no way related to Earl Grey or the American mafia. Read this article about how this hardy, long-lived native perennial shrub got its name. Continue reading to learn more about this native shrub’s attributes and how to use New Jersey Tea in your garden. New Jersey Tea ( Ceanothus americanus ) is in no way related to Earl Grey or the American mafia. Its curious name was coined during the American Revolution when its leaves were used as a substitute for the imported English version. Never having tried the concoction, I cannot vouch for either its taste or its safety. I can however, attest to the plant being a hardy, long-lived native perennial shrub. Ceanthus americanus in summer bloom In the wild New Jersey Tea thrives on upland prairies and savannas in full sun to partial shade. It is found throughout eastern and central North America, growing some three feet tall and five wide. Ceanothus americanus is hardy from Zones 3 through 9 so it does well even in Northern Minnesota. It makes an excellent low hedge where privacy is not an issue. New Jersey Tea works especially well on rocky hillsides and slopes. It does require well-drained soil which can be either sandy or loamy. The shrub has a deep tap root which makes it especially drought resistant and low maintenance when established. It is a slow grower, however and will take two to three years to establish itself. Once settled in, New Jersey tea boasts beautifully glossy green leaves topped by frothy white clusters of flowers that adorn the shrub in July and August. Thus, it adds color to the garden at times when not much is otherwise happening. These flowers go on to produce black seed capsules which explode in early fall. The capsule remnants remain on the bush through the winter, adding interest. New Jersey Tea is deciduous and blooms off new wood. Therefore, it can be pruned back in the fall or early spring, if desired. I prefer, however, to leave it in its natural state. Ceanothus americanus foliage As you might expect from such a ubiquitous native perennial, it is quite pollinator friendly. Hummingbirds especially appreciate the smaller insects that are drawn to the summer blooms. It is a host plant for both Spring Azure and Summer Azure butterflies ( Celastrina ladon ) . It is said to be deer resistant although other sources state deer use the twigs as a major food source throughout the year. Frankly, most anything is potential chow for Bambi. Since it is slow growing it usually is available in nurseries only in smaller sizes. Be patient, however and you will be richly rewarded by this lovely plant. Photo Credit: US Fish & Wildlife Service (1), Go Botany (2)

< Back Kentucky Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens): Romance in the air Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener A warm summer night and the fragrance of wisteria is in the air. Okay, I admit to being a bit of a romantic, but this gorgeous native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. Learn why and how to grow this lovely climbing vine in your garden in this article. Wisteria frutescens or Amerious native perennial invites images of lost gentility . . . even if it never really happened. can wisteria is a woody, deciduous, climbing vine native to the wet forests and stream banks of the southeastern United States with a growing range stretching from the states of Virginia to East Texas extending southeast through Florida and north to New York and the Central Midwest extending into southern Minnesota . Fragrant, pea-like, lilac-purple or blue flowers will develop in April-May after the leaves emerge. Sometimes some additional blooming will develop in the summer. Although the flowers are usually blueish, some cultivars will produce white or dark burgundy blooms, or even have hints of yellow or green. If you are going to give American wisteria a go, you should of course provide some fairly sturdy trellising as the plant can grow as tall as 15 to 40 feet and 4 to 8 feet wide. Wisteria likes full sun (6 + hours per day) but will soldier along in part shade (2-6 hours of direct sunlight). Blooming might be a problem if it is overly shaded. It will do well in either clay or loam but good drainage of moist, occasionally wet soil is important. Wisteria also likes acid soil with pH tending toward 6.0 which is why it does well on a moist forest border. It acts as a host for larval forms of several butterflies and functions as an important nectar source for both bees and butterflies. American wisteria is relatively resistant to most pests, although honey fungus can be a problem as are a number of chewing insects. Deer and rabbits don’t usually consider wisteria as their first choice on the menu. Flowering usually occurs in the second or third year although not always, so be patient! Failure to bloom may be due to too much shade as we said, so choose your site well. Wisteria frutescens does not like to be transplanted. Frost damage or over fertilization may sometimes be the causes of non-flowering. A judicious application of 10-10-10 in the spring usually suffices. Also, since it is hardy only to Zone 5A, it might be prudent to mulch heavily in the fall in a southern Minnesota garden. Some nice cultivars to look for in your local nursery include “Alba” and “Nivea” with white flowers, “Magnifica” and “Swantly Purple”. “Amethyst Falls” produces a lovely, lightly fragrant lavender-purple bloom. Pruning should usually be done in the spring after flowering to control the size and spread of the plant. American wisteria does well as an accent to native or pollinator gardens especially on slopes, banks or rock walls. Regardless of placement it will add a colorful, fragrant and, perhaps romantic element to your landscape. Photo Credit: USDA (1), Bev Wagar, NC State Extension (2)

< Back Holiday Cacti Janelle Rietz-Kamenar Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are beautiful flowering holiday plants Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are two beautiful flowering holiday plants. They are often given as gifts during the festivities. Believe it or not, these plants are native to Brazil, but have been a favorite indoor plant in the United States for many years. They can live a very long time (100+ years). Some people have trouble getting them to bloom and there are a few tricks one needs to be aware of to produce healthy, vibrant blooms. First, holiday cacti like high humidity and bright, filtered light. They need relatively moist soil with 1 part potting soil, 2 parts peat moss and 1 part sand. They do not tolerate standing in water or extreme cold air drafts. Holiday cacti, however, do need shorter days and cooler nights in order to produce blooms. Placing plants in a cool, bright location where daytime temperatures are 65-70 degrees and evening temperatures are 55-65 degrees will encourage bud development after approximately 5-6 weeks. Once the plants have bloomed, reduce the frequency of watering until spring when there is more active growth. These plants are relatively easy to take care of if you follow these instructions. If you are having trouble with your plants blooming there are usually 3 possible causes (assuming the plant is healthy): Indoor air is too warm: lower the room temperature to 55-65 degrees at night, 60-65 degrees during the day. Plant days are too long: this is usually not an issue in Minnesota if near a window but one can put the plant in total darkness for a minimum of 12 hours. Plant does not have enough nutrients to produce buds. Fertilize the plant at half strength with a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium (0-15-10). For a more comprehensive article about these plants, check out this website: Common Issues with Holiday Cacti Photo credit: Janelle Reitz-Kamenar

< Back Early Spring Blooming Plants Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. CROCUS is one of the first bulb plants to peak its head up in early spring. They are a very reliable plant and frost tolerant. They grow 3-6” tall and are available in multiple colors in shades of purple, orange, pink, and white. They like full sun to part shade and prefer a slightly neutral soil pH of 6.0-7.0, but well-draining soil is very important. DAFFODILS are also an early spring plant best known for their bright yellow trumpet shaped flower. They grow in clumps and unlike tulip bulbs, they have little appeal to wildlife. Planting them amongst snowdrops, hyacinths and tulips provides a wonderful array of colors. They tolerate full sun to part shade with a slightly neutral pH soil (6.0-7.0). DWARF IRIS is a fragrant miniature plant that blooms early in the season and grows to about 6-8”. They bloom in two waves in various shades of dark to light blue, and purple making them ideal for borders. They prefer full sun to part shade, good soil drainage, and spread through underground rhizomatous stems filling the garden with beautiful spring blooms. HYACINTH loves full sun to part shade in a well-drained soil with pH close to neutral (7.0). This plant is well suited to Zones 4-8 and range in height from 6-12”. This plant has a very fragrant flower with tiny blooms resembling bunches of grapes. TULIPS bloom early in the spring season along with daffodils and crocus. They do best in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5. Colors include orange, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and numerous multi colors that grow to 12-18” tall. EASTER LILY – Lilies are very flamboyant with beautiful flowers and an intensely sweet fragrance. Easter lilies are white in color although there are numerous types of lilies such as Asiatic and Oriental hybrids that come in many colors. The lily is an upright perennial that ranges in height from 2-8’ tall. Don’t forget, once that easter lily is done blooming, cut the stems down and plant the bulb in the garden so you can enjoy it again next spring. Lilies grow best in slightly alkaline (6.5-7.0) moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter. Fall is the time to plant the bulbs for most of these plants, so, if you haven’t planted any of these spring delights in your garden yet, I hope you are inspired to do so this year. Then look forward to a rainbow of color in the spring. Photo Credits: Carolyn Plank (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Julie Weisenhorn, University of Minnesota Extension (3), Woodies Garden Goods (4 - Creative Commons License) (4), Pixnio (Creative Commons License) (5), MaxPixel (Creative Commons License) (6)

< Back Delectable Strawberry Shortcake (and a Bonus Rosemary Recipe) Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s August and our gardens are in full growth mode, what a delightful exciting growing time of year. One of the most popular fruits that are ripening now is strawberries. Joy Johnson offers a mouthwatering recipe for strawberry shortcake. And – a repeat of a former favorite rosemary recipe. What a great time of year for eating fresh food in Minnesota! It’s August and our gardens are in full growth mode, what a delightful exciting growing time of year. I had doubled the size of my vegetable garden this spring and am enjoying even more abundance of fresh fruits and veggies. Unfortunately, last year’s torrential rains wiped out my raspberry and strawberry patch, so I don’t have any of my own berries this year. I am thankful so many people share their bounty at local farmers markets because one of my all-time favorites is strawberry shortcake. Here is a recipe for whole wheat shortcakes, they are heartier than the lightweight store-bought chiffon cakes. I prefer them and enjoy serving them in a bowl and adding a little almond milk to the bottom for the short cake to soak up. Since I planted blueberry bushes last spring, I enjoy a sprinkling of those on top of the whipped cream. You can never have too many berries! Strawberry Shortcakes Ingredients: 1-quart strawberries, cored and sliced 1 cup sugar 1/3 cup shortening 2 cups white whole wheat flour 2 tablespoons sugar 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt ¾ cup almond milk Sweetened Whipped Cream Process: Mix strawberries with 1 cup sugar; let stand 1 hour. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Cut shortening into flour, 2 T. sugar, the baking powder and salt until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in milk just until blended Gently smooth dough into a ball on lightly floured board. Knead a bit, until it’s well combined, but not sticky Roll out gently to about ½ inch thick Fold the dough over on itself and gently roll out again just to loosely stick the folded dough together. Cut with a knife or biscuit cutter into rounds or squares. Place about 1 inch apart on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake until golden brown, 10-12 minutes. Split apart while still warm, stack in a bowl with strawberries and whipped cream I met one of our new Master Gardener interns while working on a project team a couple weeks ago. We, of course, got to chatting about food and using herbs we grow. She requested a reprinting of my recipe for Rosemary Shortbread, since she wasn’t a Master Gardener when this recipe was first published in the Garden Buzz years ago. The Rosemary shortbread is a mouth-watering treat and definitely worth repeating. I hope you all enjoy it. Rosemary Shortbread Ingredients: 2 cups all-purpose flour 2/3 cup granulated sugar 1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon plus 1 pinch kosher salt 1 cup unsalted cold butter, cut into 1-inch chunks 1-2 teaspoons rosemary, chestnut or other dark, full-flavored honey Process: Heat oven to 325 degrees In a food processor, pulse together flour, sugar, rosemary and salt. Add butter and honey and pulse to fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until some crumbs start to come together, but don’t overprocess. Dough should not be smooth. Press dough into an ungreased 9-inch baking dish. Prick all over with a fork. Bake until gold brown, 35-40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Cut into squares, bars or wedges while still warm. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1), pixabay.com (2)

Subscribe to The Garden Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Look for: Master Gardener events What to do in your garden each month Interesting plants that might add value to your garden Plant diseases, insects, or other problems that you might encounter Garden tips Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books, and other ways that MGs can help you to have a healthy, happy garden. And more!! Get "The Garden Buzz" First Name Last Name Email Sign Me Up Thank you for subscribing to The Buzz!

< Back Pickling From Garden Glut to Gut Garden Scott Soltis, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern You know that feeling. It started in the springtime with two innocent-looking seedlings. But now it's August and your kitchen has the look of a staging ground for an Audrey's botanical invasion. You’ve given cucumbers to your neighbors, your mail carrier, and possibly a confused delivery driver. And yet, the vines keep producing. Welcome to the Gardener’s Dilemma and it’s something that humans have been facing since the dawn of civilization, just how do we preserve the fall harvest. Of course, one of the answers to that question is Pickling. Read on to learn all about the how-to’s and the benefits of pickling your harvest. Assorted pickle pile. Photo Credit pickpik.com Note with any kitchen project, the freshness of the ingredients greatly impacts the final product. Don’t let picked vegetables sit in the fridge for days before processing them. Pick your pail of pickles on the day you plan to pickle. Welcome to the Gardener’s Dilemma and it’s something that humans have been facing since the dawn of civilization, just how do we preserve the fall harvest. Of course, one of the answers to that question is Pickling. What Is Pickling? To pickle is actually one of the oldest methods of food preservation, knowledge of which goes back to the early Greek and Chinese cultures. At its root, pickling is the process of preserving a fruit or vegetable in order to extend its shelf life through the use of acids such as vinegar or a brine. Or put another way, through fermentation or non-fermentation methods. Method 1: Quick (unfermented) pickles are made in one or two days by adding acid in the form of vinegar. It is critical to add enough vinegar to prevent bacterial growth. Note: with this method, we are not actually canning the pickles in a water bath. While many people think of water bath canning as the pickling process, the truth is that is an additional step only done to preserve the food further and is not a requirement to produce pickles. Method 1: The Quick Pickle Effort level - My six-year-old can do it, literally Shelf Life - Maybe 1-2 months (in the fridge) Key Factor - Hot vinegar brine; instant gratification. Photo Credit: Scott Soltis Photo Credit: Scott Soltis Water, vinegar, salt, spices and cucumbers from Costco meet the jar. So easy, my six-year-old did it. Note: only a third of the cucumbers were eaten in the making of. I consider that a win. Method 2: Brined (fermented) pickles . (4) These require several weeks of “curing” at room temperature. During this period, colors and flavors change. Acid is produced as lactic acid bacteria grow. Again, no canning in a water bath as that would kill the beneficial bacteria. Lactic acid is what we use to prevent growth of botulism. Method 2: Lacto-Fermented Effort level - Back to my six-year-old child labor. Self-Life - Months (Fridge). Probably all winter. Key Factor - Healthy gut bacteria while balancing effort with shelf life. Photo Credit: Scott Soltis The 5% brine rule (3). Photo Credit: Scott Soltis To keep the "bad" bacteria out while letting the "good" Lactobacillus thrive, you need a specific salinity. A common standard is a 5% brine solution. You can calculate the required salt (S) based on the water weight (W) using: S=W×0.05 For long-term shelf stability (especially if canning), we aim for an acidity level of pH<4.6. This environment is too acidic for harmful pathogens to survive. (9) To Pickle or Not to Pickle. Was there ever a Question. Obviously, in today’s modern kitchen, food preservation is mainly done through the refrigerator but that doesn’t negate the benefits of still preserving food through older known methods such as pickling. Other reasons include: A Flavor Transformation Through the process of either fermentation or acid immersion, large, bland starch and protein molecules are broken down. They transition into simple sugars and amino acids. This is the secret behind that elusive "umami" hit—that savory, mouth-watering quality that makes a pickle more than just a sour cucumber. The Gut Health Factor If you choose the traditional fermentation route, you aren't just making a snack; you’re cultivating a colony. Traditional pickling creates probiotics, beneficial bacteria that support your microbiome. It’s one of the few instances where "controlled spoilage" actually makes you healthier. Sense of Accomplishment A lot of people like to do something because it's fun and fulfilling. Yes, we can simply hop on over to the grocery store; but like the home garden itself, there is still something to be said for doing it yourself. Before you try pickling at home, get educated You don’t have to utilize the water bath process. Quick refrigerator pickles are probably some of the easiest and most often used methods to get pickles quickly. Take a container or jar, cut up your veggies, pour in the vinegar-water brine, add your herbs and spices, put it in the refrigerator overnight, and enjoy the next day. Once you master the basic cucumber, the entire garden becomes your playground. Try pickling red onions for tacos, green beans (Dilly Beans) for Bloody Marys, or shaved carrots for salads. Other common pickled vegetables include: Sauerkraut / Carrots / Okra / Asparagus / Beets / Peppers / Whole Mushrooms / Summer squash / Turnips / You get the idea Photo Credit: https://docs.midjourney.com/hc/en-us/articles/33329261836941-Getting-Started-Guide ] Pickling vegetables can be both tasty and colorful. Pickling isn't just another chore on your gardening to-do list; it’s a way to transform a seasonal surplus into a year-round gourmet pantry. It’s about making your hard work "obviously delicious" with minimal effort. By learning this timeless technique, you’ll waste less, eat better, and enjoy more flavorful meals every day. So why wait? Addendum: The "Quick Pickle" Refrigerator Method If you want pickles today (or at least by tomorrow), this is your golden ticket. The refrigerator method uses a hot vinegar brine to rapidly infuse the vegetables with flavor. The 3-2-1 Formula (5): 3 Parts Water 2 Parts Vinegar (White or Apple Cider will do) 1 part Sugar (Adjustable based on your sweet tooth) Extra - Add spice or other flavor such as garlic and onion as your taste prefers. Add a pinch of salt and your vibe seasonings, think smashed garlic cloves, fresh dill heads, peppercorns, or even a dried chili for some heat. The Process: Bring your brine to a simmer, pour it over your sliced cucumbers in a jar, and close the lid. Rule: Let it marinate in the fridge for at least a week. While they look ready in an hour, patience is the only truly "hard" part of this process. References: Pickpik.com . Assorted Pickle Pile https://nchfp.uga.edu/papers/guide/GUIDE06_HomeCan_rev0715.pdf https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/ferment/general-information-on-fermenting/general-information-on-fermenting/ https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/pickle/general-information-pickling/general-information-on-pickling/ https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pnw-355-pickling-vegetables https://extension.oregonstate.edu/food/preservation https://www.almanac.com/how-to-pickle AI generated An Assorted pickled vegetables in glass jars lined up on a wooden shelf against a dark background https://nchfp.uga.edu/papers/guide/GUIDE06_HomeCan_rev0715.pdf

< Back How to Select an Orchid Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Have you been intrigued about orchids but don’t know where to start or how to keep them alive? Or, are you already an orchid grower but want some expert tips? This article on orchids is the first of three by orchid expert, Paul Wood. The first article provides great advice about how to choose the right orchid for you. Read on to learn how you can begin to be an orchid grower – and lover! Orchids are the most popular potted indoor plants. The most popular type of orchid, by far, is the Phalaenopsis or, as it is commonly called “The Moth Orchid.” Advances in cloning have enabled commercial orchid growers to bring literally millions of Phalaenopsis orchids to market each year. Phalaenopsis plants (or Phal) can be found not only at garden centers, but at big box stores, grocery stores, and even farmer’s’ markets. As with any house plant you buy, success begins with buying a healthy plant that will thrive in the location you picked for it; orchids are no exception. It is the gardening mantra: “Right Plant, Right Place.” Phals are low light orchids and that is one reason they do well as an indoor plant. Here a few tips on how to select a healthy orchid using a Phal as an example. First look at the plant. Are the leaves firm, plump, nice and green, and spot free? Limp leaves or yellowing leaves usually mean the plant is not getting enough moisture and that can mean root problems or that the orchid has not been cared for by the retailer. Next examine the planting medium. Is the orchid in sphagnum moss or bark and is the medium moist? If the medium is really dry it means the orchid has not been tended to by the retailer and that lack of moisture can cause the roots to die. This brings us to selection introspection. If you are a person who tends to over water, look for an orchid that is in bark because it helps drain the extra water. Conversely, if you tend to ignore your indoor plants, consider an orchid that is in sphagnum moss because the moss will retain moisture and you will only have to water maybe once every three weeks. Now take a look at the roots. Orchids sold in retail stores are packaged in ceramic pots, however the orchid itself is in a clear plastic pot inside that pot. Simply tease the plastic pot out and take a look at the roots. A healthy orchid will have lots of green roots, and maybe some slate grey roots. If the roots are mostly brown, put it down! Brown roots are dead roots. Finally, examine the flower stem. Look for stems that are bright green and laden with flowers and lots of buds. The flowers should be alive and the buds plump. Fading flowers means the orchid is nearing the end of its bloom cycle and dried buds are not going produce any new flowers. Phals, with a modicum of care, will easily bloom for several months or more, so your selection goal is to maximize the bloom time. Never buy a Phal that is fully bloomed because you have no idea when the bloom cycle began, so you might only get a few weeks of show before the flowers begin to fade. Selecting an orchid is not that much different than selecting any other potted plant; you want a healthy plant. With the Phals you not only want to select a healthy plant but also a plant that will allow you to fully enjoy their long bloom time. This is achieved by buying buds not blossoms. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! Resources: GrowingBestPhalsPart_I.pdf ( aos.org ) Selecting an Orchid ( aos.org ) Orchids for Everyone: The Most Popular Orchid Genera and How to Identify Them ( psu.edu ) Photo Credits: Troy David Johnston; www.flickr.com (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back How to Pick the Best Perennials for Your Garden Karna Berg, Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Master Gardener May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. This article will help you choose the best perennials for your garden. May is the month when gardeners’ dreams turn to planting. We dream of a garden filled with interesting, colorful flowers all season. And while we can achieve season-long color by planting annuals every year, there is much to be gained by planting perennials that will return year after year. Filling your garden with perennials is more economical than planting annuals every year, perennials – especially native perennials – are beneficial to our environment, and with some planning, perennials will provide a colorful display all season. In order to achieve these benefits, you must pick the right perennial for the right spot in your garden. That means you need to start your selection process at home, before you set foot in your garden center which will be filled with tempting plants that may or may not grow successfully in your garden. Zone Awareness A beautiful plant meant for Arizona or Washington will not like it here in Minnesota. Perennials that are likely to make it through our Minnesota winters need to be identified as Zone 3 or 4. We are all tempted by a Zone 5 plant now and then, and some of them will make it in a sheltered spot or with some babying, but the risk is that just when that plant gets to its mature size, a nasty winter it doesn’t like comes along and it’s a goner. Light Matters Then there is the issue of light. If you put a shade loving plant in a sunny spot, it may make it but will require more watering and could disappoint you with burned leaves and wilting flowers. If you put a sun loving plant in a shady spot, it will not be happy. It may live a few years but never look like the picture on the tag that made you bring it home. So, consider the amount of sun in the spot in your garden calling for a new plant. If the tag says full sun, that spot should get 6 - 8 hours of direct sun every day. If the tag says part sun or shade, the spot should get 3 - 6 hours of direct light. Any plant that will make it in less than 3 hours of direct sun a day should be marked for full shade. Soil Hospitality Most plants will do well in “loamy” (equal parts sand, silt and clay) soil but most of us in Dakota County will not have such hospitable soil. If you have a lot of clay in your garden, know that it will hold water for extended periods of time. If you put a plant there that loves to have its feet dry out between watering, it may not do well. The opposite is also true, some plants like a lot of water and wet feet. They would probably do better in that clay. As for sandy soil, it will drain quickly, so those water loving plants will not be happy. Get to know your soil and learn which plants are likely to prosper in it. It is also important to know if your soil has the nutrients necessary for plant health. You can get your soil tested at the University of Minnesota and take steps to improve your soil test, if necessary. Bloom Time Most perennials will bloom for 2 – 4 weeks in a season. If you want to have plants blooming in your garden all season, pay attention to what time period a plant will bloom. You don’t want all the perennials in your garden to bloom in June or July. With a little research, you can plant a variety of perennials that will bloom at different times throughout the season and give you the color show that you desire. But don’t discount characteristics of plants other than blooms that can provide beauty and interest. Many plants have a beautiful structure or interesting leaves or a different leaf color that can provide interest even when the plant is not blooming. Resources to Choose the Best Plants for Your Garden Fortunately, there are easy-to-use resources to help you select the best perennials for your garden site. Try this University of Minnesota Extension site for plants that do well in a variety of conditions. And, check out these award-winning Minnesota-friendly perennials . For a good reference book on Minnesota plants, try - Perennials for Minnesota and Wisconsin , by Don Engebretson and Don Williamson, published by Lone Pine Publishing USA. We all experiment at times, trying a plant in a spot that’s iffy. Sometimes they make it sometimes they don’t. That’s part of the fun of gardening. But for a sure thing, it pays to pay attention to the rules! While nothing will make a plant fool proof, at least it then has a better chance of thriving. Photo credits: Karna Berg (all)

< Back July in Your Garden - Enjoy and Maintain Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s July in your garden! Hopefully, you planted serial perennials and they are moving through their bloom periods nicely; your annuals are in full bloom and your vegetables are noticeably growing. This is what we longed for during those long winter months. So, take time to sit back and just enjoy the fruits of your labor and the gift of summer in Minnesota. But, of course, in order to keep your garden looking its best. This article points out a few things to be mindful of this month. It’s July in your garden! Hopefully, you planted serial perennials and they are moving through their bloom periods nicely; your annuals are in full bloom and your vegetables are noticeably growing. This is what we longed for during those long winter months. So, take time to sit back and just enjoy the fruits of your labor and the gift of summer in Minnesota. But, of course, in order to keep your garden looking its best, there are a few things of which we should be mindful this month. Let’s take a look. Tidy up your perennial and annual flowers . Deadhead faded flowers by pruning the stem to slightly above the first set of leaves. Although, most Minnesota perennials don’t rebloom because of our short growing season, there are some plants that will provide another show after deadheading or pruning (catmint, daylilies, coneflower, salvia, spirea). However, don’t expect quite the vigorous show as the first bloom. Most annuals will be refreshed by a careful pruning. Photo credit: Northern Gardener, Minnesota Horticultural Society If you haven’t already done so, prune spring-flowering shrubs. For more on pruning spring-flowering shrubs, read this article . Some perennials, like irises, should be divided in late July to early August. Want more information about dividing irises? Here is a great article . If you put your houseplants outside this summer, check on them regularly to make sure they are managing the outside weather. Fertilize them more often when they are growing and move them into shade or inside if they appear stressed. Heat - too hot to grow . While we may enjoy the heat, some of your plants may not. Some vegetables slow their growth during the hot days of summer. During days when the weather reaches sustained temperatures of 80s and 90s, vegetables like cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes or beans may not ripen. Also, wait to prune your plants, as pruning is another stressor. Apparently, bees also don’t like it hot. When the temperatures reach 90 degrees, many bees slow down and pollinate less. Not much can be done but waiting out the hot temperatures. We know that the weather will eventually cool down. Photo credit: Julie Harris Keep weeding during hot weather as weeds compete for water with your precious plants. Water wisely . You planted the plants and probably spent some money to make your garden look great. Don’t let the plants wither away in the hot July sun. Note that the average garden needs about an inch of rain per week. During extreme heat, some plants, especially container plants, may need watering more often. But water wisely. Make sure you know your city’s watering restrictions, as many limit watering to certain days of the week. Water plants in the morning as this allows the plants and soil to absorb more water; the heat of the day causes more evaporation. Drip irrigation is preferred because water is deposited directly into the soil. If watering by hand, water as close to the surface as possible. Photo credit: Natalie Hoidal, University of Minnesota Extension Deal with insects and diseases wisely . Get to know your beneficial insects from your destructive ones ( read this article ). One of the most despised destructive insects that appears this time of year is the Japanese beetle . The University of Minnesota suggests not killing Japanese beetles immediately after they emerge. Why? Winsome flies lay their eggs on the beetles and kill them. They appear as large white spots on the beetles’ bodies. ( For more on Japanese Beetles .) Photo credit University of Minnesota Extension Squash bugs and squash borer appear this time of year. Squash bugs lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves. Squash vine borer lay their eggs at the base of plants. Watch your tomatoes for early blight or blossom end rot . Cucumbers are susceptible to powdery mildew as are other plants. Some of your vegetables or herbs may be ready for harvesting (ex., basil, cilantro, dill). Pinch off the top leaves to encourage more growth and for eating, of course! Take care of your damaged trees and shrubs . Summer storms can wreak havoc with our trees and shrubs. When trees have ragged wounds, they do not heal well. Cut off smaller branches with a sharp pruner. Call an arborist if you have extensive damage to your trees. Lawn care . Grass also requires about an inch of water a month. Generally, lawns benefit from more deep watering less often. Read this article for information about watering lawns. Hold off on spraying herbicides in the lawn until fall when temperatures are cooler and the roots start to pull the energy into their crowns. Most herbicides are less effective, anyway, when applied in very hot weather. Manually pull weeds during this time. Likewise, don’t fertilize during hot weather as that can damage your grass. Increase the mowing height by an inch during mid-summer to improve the lawn's ability to tolerate stress caused by heat and drying winds. Planting Fall Vegetables . You can start to direct-sow fall vegetables when your earlier vegetables have flowered (bolted). Cabbage, carrots, beets, and broccoli are good fall crops. Look at this article for ideas about vegetables to plant now for a fall harvest. Alternatively, you can plant a cover crop for your vegetable garden. This will improve your soil and give you a break from growing and harvesting. Performing garden maintenance may not be as fun as planting and harvesting; but engaging in a few healthy practices in mid-summer will allow you to enjoy a healthy and beautiful garden for the entire growing season. It’s worth it! Photo credit: www.backyardfocus.com References: https://extension.umn.edu/news/july-garden-checklist https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/ag-hub/ag-topics/crop-production/diseases-insects-and-weeds/weeds/herbicides-and-hot-weather https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/how-excessive-heat-affects-vegetable-garden https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-hot-weather https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/mowing-practices-healthy-lawns https://northerngardener.org/july-garden-chores/

< Back Make Chile Rellenos from Your Poblano Peppers Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Joy Johnson planted a variety pack of pepper seeds that produced an abundance of peppers. In this article, she provides a recipe for using the Poblano Peppers to make Chile Rellenos. She promises that the making is easy and the result is delicious! Chile Rellenos Ingredients: 6 fresh poblano or Anaheim chile peppers 1 - 8 oz. package queso asadero (white Mexican cheese), cut into ¾-inch thick strips 2 large eggs, separated 1 tsp baking powder ¾ cup all -purpose flour 1 cup vegetable shortening or canola oil for frying Process: Preheat the oven broiler; set the oven rack about 6 inches below the heat source. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place peppers onto the prepared baking sheet and broil until skins are blackened and blistered, about 10 minutes. Use tongs to rotate peppers often to char all sides. Place blackened peppers into a bowl and tightly seal with plastic wrap. Allow peppers to steam as they cool, about 15 minutes. Remove skin from peppers, then cut a slit down the long side of each one to remove seeds and core. Rinse peppers inside and out and pat dry with paper towels. Stuff peppers with strips of cheese. Whisk egg yolks and baking powder in a bowl until combined. Beat egg whites with an electric mixer in a separate bowl until stiff peaks form. Gently fold beaten whites into the yolk mixture. Place flour into a separate shallow bowl. Melt vegetable shortening in a skillet over medium heat. Roll each stuffed pepper in flour, tap off excess flour, and dip into the egg mixture to coat both sides. Gently lay coated peppers into the hot shortening. Fry peppers until lightly golden brown and cheese has melted, about 5 minutes per side. Eat and enjoy! Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Snack on Celery Kristen Andrews, Master Gardener Intern Celery, while a delicious treat, can be a challenge for the home gardener to grow. Learn how you can start your own celery plants indoors and have a harvest of this versatile vegetable, early or late, into the growing season! Ants on a log I have fond memories of snack time as a child, munching on “ants on a log.” Those familiar with the treat know there are three main components: the ants (chocolate chips and/or raisins), the glue to stick the ants on the log (usually peanut butter), and the log (a crisp piece of celery). The star of the snack, a crisp piece of celery, has been produced commercially since the early 1800s. Celery is part of the Apiaceae (or carrot) family. These plants are known for their hollow stems, taproots, and flat-topped flower clusters. Other familiar plants in this family are dill, fennel, and cumin. Growing celery at home may be difficult, but the harvest serves as an excellent reward for anyone up for the challenge. There are two main types of celery: Trenching and Self-blanching. Trenching celery requires extra care to ensure the stalks are protected, whereas self-blanching does not. The taste of self-blanching celery may be a little more muted, but is generally easier to grow. Two recommended self-blanching varieties are Utah and Pascal. For the home grower, celery does best when started indoors, 10-12 weeks before the last spring frost date, for a spring crop. A fall crop can also be started indoors, 10-12 weeks before the first fall frost date. Transplant outdoors once temperatures are above 50F during the day, and no lower than 40F during the night. Celery's three main needs are: cool weather, water, and rich, organic matter soil. Celery Celery can be harvested by removing the outer stalk layer leaving the rest of the plant to continue growth. The plant can also be left to grow up to 3-inches in diameter and then all the stalks harvested as a whole. Cool temperatures and water will continue the growth of the plant. The rooty, stalk structured plant with leafy greens has many uses. The stalks are regularly consumed and used in everything from stir-fry to broth, or simply consumed raw. Less popular, but still edible, are the leafy greens on the top of the plant. Those can be added to salads or minced and used as a seasoning. If looking for new and innovative celery uses, Taste of Home has 28 Non-Boring Ways to Use Celery . Sources: https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/celery-in-the-garden https://www.almanac.com/plant/celery https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/vegetables https://www.britannica.com/topic/list-of-plants-in-the-family-Apiaceae-2038061 https://www.tasteofhome.com/collection/non-boring-celery-recipes/ Photo Credit: Brian Talbot, Flickr (1) & Buuz, Wikimedia (2)