< Back What Are Plants Doing in Winter? Valerie Rogotzke, Master Gardener Read this delightful article with your children about how plants survive winter. How are plants like animals in their amazing self-preservation strategies? Engage in the fun and education experiments with the child in your life. Our Minnesota winters can be quite cold and snowy! We have warm houses and heavy coats and mugs of hot cocoa to keep us cozy all through the winter, but what about all the living things outside ? How do they make it through the cold season? Animals who live outdoors don’t have buildings or mittens, but they do have their own winter survival tricks. Squirrels and rabbits build warm nests, bears and frogs will hibernate, and insects and birds often migrate, flying south to warmer places for a vacation until spring returns to Minnesota. Without arms to burrow into the ground, wings to fly away, or arms to build nests, which of these tricks can plants use to survive winter? How do plants survive the cold? Believe it or not, plants use many of the same tricks that animals use. Let’s look at three examples. SQUIRRELS You might spot a squirrel on a cold winter day, running to one of its many hiding spots to find a few nuts or seeds to eat. They enjoy lazy winters, mostly snug in their nests or out on a food run, because they worked all summer gathering food and bulking up their nests for the winter. Which plant is like this, alive and active through the winter? A. Deciduous trees, like maples or oaks B. Tender bulbs, like dahlias C. Evergreen or coniferous trees, like spruces or firs D. Hardy bulbs, like tulips If you said C — Evergreens, you’re correct! Evergreen trees continue to be active throughout the winter, just like squirrels. They keep their green needles all through the winter months because they’re coated in a waxy shell that protects the water inside each needle. Furthermore, their roots can keep growing deep in the earth because the soil four or five feet below the grass isn’t frozen. FROGS If you have frogs in your garden in the summer, you will notice that they go away in autumn. As our Junior Winter Garden Detectives might remember, frogs survive winter by going into a deep sleep called hibernation, and they also make a special kind of antifreeze liquid in their bodies that keeps them from freezing solid. Which plant is like this, going to sleep but not freezing? A. Deciduous trees, like maples or oaks B. Tender bulbs, like dahlias C. Evergreen or coniferous trees, like spruces or firs D. Hardy bulbs, like tulips If you said A — Deciduous trees, you’re correct! Deciduous trees don’t disappear completely like frogs, but their leaves certainly do! A maple tree will drop its leaves in autumn because they are too delicate to survive the winter. The deep sleep that trees go through is called dormancy instead of hibernation. As for that antifreeze liquid that the trees make in winter to keep from freezing? You have probably eaten it on pancakes, because it’s maple syrup. CANADA GEESE It’s hard to miss Canada geese on our lakes in the summer. It’s even harder to miss them when they fly south in autumn, honking noisily in their V-shaped formations in the sky. Which plant is like this, leaving the cold for warmer climates? A. Deciduous trees, like maples B. Tender bulbs, like dahlias C. Evergreen or coniferous trees, like spruces D. Hardy bulbs, like tulips If you said B — Tender bulbs, you’re correct! You might have even been with the gardening grownups in your life when they dug up all their tender bulbs at the end of summer. These bulbs cannot fly to Florida for the summer, but go instead to the warmth of a garage until it’s time to plant them again the following May or June. You might have noticed that we didn’t have any animal examples for hardy bulbs. Why is that? Well, this last winter trick for plants is quite unique— vernalization . “Vernal” is just a fancy Latin way of saying “spring,” so vernalization is about the process plants go through to get ready for spring blooming and flowering. We’ve already seen that some flowers, like tender bulbs, just aren’t tough enough to survive the snowy winter and need to be brought inside. What about the plants that are strong enough to survive the winter? This includes hardy bulbs, but also apple and cherry trees and many vegetables like cabbages and carrots. Their flowers are all ready to produce another blossom in fall, but they don’t. The cooling weather puts a flower blocker onto the plant that stops new flowers from growing. (If you have cherry or apple trees, you can go outside and see the buds that have formed but not bloomed.) What removes the flower blocker? Several weeks of cold weather. By the time the cold weather has removed the flower blockers, it’s springtime—time for new flowers to start to appear! DO: Try These Experiments FREEZER EXPERIMENT on deciduous and evergreen leaves. Gather an avocado and a piece of lettuce or spinach. An avocado has a waxy outer shell like a spruce needle, and a piece of spinach is unprotected like a maple leaf. What do you think will happen when you put them in the freezer for 24 hours? For a week? Write down your hypotheses on a piece of paper. Next, place both in your freezer. Check on them at 24 hours and again at one week. What has changed? Now let them thaw out on your kitchen counter. Which one has survived the cold best? VERNALIZATION EXPERIMENT in the garden. If you grow carrots in your garden in the summer, try leaving a few in the ground in the fall. (This will be difficult, since homegrown carrots are delicious.) A beautiful white flower that looks like Queen Anne’s lace will be awaiting you. By letting this biennial plant live out its second year, you are witnessing vernalization—the flower blocker has been taken off by winter, and now the carrot flowers are in full bloom. Further reading and listening for adults on vernalization, both from vernalization expert Dr. Richard Amasino from the University of Wisconsin-Madison : https://grow.cals.wisc.edu/deprecated/food-systems/winter-awakens-spring-flowering https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcvmlYroJ1A Photo credits: Pix4 Free (1), Pixnio (2)

< Back The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees By Douglas W. Tallamy, Timber Press, Portland, OR, 2021 Oak trees. Who doesn’t love this bold and majestic tree species in our landscape. In addition to their beauty, oak trees contribute mightily to the health of our environment. To learn more about the mighty oaks, read Douglas Tallamy’s excellent book, ”The Nature of Oaks.” Reviewed by Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Did you know that the seeds we religiously put out for the birds each winter provide scant nourishment for most species? A few, such as doves and finches, are granivores and do just fine. Most birds, however, are insectivores and depend on this supplementation even in winter. So where do all our avian friends get “three hots” in the cold months? Surprisingly, a substantial portion of their winter diet comes from caterpillar stages tucked into the bark of many tree species native to North America. Of these, the oaks are the most efficient in providing larval feed for our feathered friends. Professor Douglas Tallamy provides an in-depth and fascinating account of the massive niche occupied by the various species of oak in the ecology of North America. Tallamy records the activities of the oaks and their many visitors from month to month throughout the year. In addition to being a winter-feeding station for birds, oaks serve numerous insect species as a refuge and feeding reservoir allowing them to complete their varied life cycles and integrate into the complex web of life in the North American woods. Their extensive root system stabilizes the soil and effectively combats erosion. In short, oaks support more life forms and interactions than any other tree species in our northern hemisphere. These giants form a keystone upon which so much of forest life depends. In addition to demonstrating the vital role played by oaks in our ecology, the author provides a useful guide as to which species of oak do best in the varying environments of the US as well as helpful hints in planting and nurturing these invaluable species.

< Back Bees - Friend or Foe? Is There a Way I Can Help? Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener As the weather warms, we are faced with the question -” Are bees my friend or foe?” What is your first reaction when you see a bee? Do you stand still and watch in amazement as a bee flies around or do you wave your arms, scream and run the other way. Little eyes are watching our reaction so before you turn and run, let’s teach our children and grandchildren to respect bees and remember how important bees are to us and how we can help them exist by making a Bee Bath. As the weather warms, we are faced with the question -” Are bees my friend or foe?” What is your first reaction when you see a bee? Do you stand still and watch in amazement as a bee flies around or do you wave your arms, scream and run the other way. Little eyes are watching our reaction so before you turn and run, let’s teach our children and grandchildren to respect bees and remember how important bees are to us and how we can help them exist like making a Bee Bath . Are all bees the same? What is the difference between a bee and a wasp or are they the same? Bees and wasps differ in appearance, behavior and diet even though they are both part of the order “Hymenoptera.” Is one better for pollination? Teaching children about bees from an early age will help them to respect and assist in giving us ideas how to help them out. Let’s learn about the differences between bees and wasps and then create a Bee Bath. Bees vs. Wasps Honey Bee Wasp Bees Appearance Wasps Appearance Larger Body - fuller body, fuzzy hairs Slimmer - non hairy, shiny Better Pollinators due to hairy body Still Pollinators - not as productive as bees Bee Behavior Wasp Behavior Less aggressive, Focused on Pollination Can be more aggressive around nests Bee Diet Wasp Diet Feed on pollen & nectar Eat insects, fruit & other food available Let’s Create a Bee Bath During the hot summer months, bees get hot and need to find ways to cool off. One way for a bee to cool off is by drinking water. Water cools the bee and its hive, assists with digestion and also is used to feed the larvae. Bees will find water sources; however, many sources are too deep for the bees so choosing a shallow dish, plant saucer or tray is essential. Making the ideal bee bath will not only be a fun outdoor project for you and your child/grandchild, but also helps the bees in many ways. Supplies Needed: Shallow dish Pebbles, Marbles, Rocks or Natural Material, Moss, Sticks Fresh Water Let’s get started: Fill the shallow dish, tray or planter tray with pebbles, marbles, rocks or other natural materials that will stick above or out of the water. This will serve as the spots where the bees will land and stand while drinking. Use fresh water to place in the shallow dish making sure that the pebbles, rocks, marbles, etc. stick out so that the bees have places to land and stand Replace water regularly. Water will need to be replaced more often during hot weather. Find the right spot to place the Bee Bath. Place the Bee Bath in the shade or partly sunny area. Keep the Bee Bath out of the direct sun so that the water does not warm up too much therefore making it unsafe for the bees. The water should never be hot. Place Bee Bath near flowers to encourage its use as well. Keep educating your children and grandchildren about bees and start creating Bee Baths around your flower and garden beds. Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,2,4), pexels.com (3), Rosieshappymusings.blogspot.com , all creative commons (5)

< Back Growing Garlic If you are looking for a quick "how to" on growing garlic here's a resource for you. Stacy Reeves, Master Gardener While not to judge a book by its length, this cute little bulletin about garlic growing, written by Glenn Andrews, proves to be as digestible as many of the recipes it contains. This volume of A Storey Country Wisdom Bulletin could have read like a textbook on the dos and don’ts of sowing garlic, but thanks to Andrews’ passion for this "stinky rose," it has moments that read like a love story. As a fellow garlic lover, I enjoyed this concise yet pleasant book and felt comradery with Andrews as he gushed about the ease he finds in growing garlic and the rich and gorgeous flavors garlic lends to nearly any recipe. He outlines its growing season, soil requirements, and harvest routines and encourages even the unprepared gardeners to just pop a clove in the ground as an experiment. My only critique of this succinct read is that it fails to mention a very significant way to pack even more garlic goodness into Minnesota kitchens - through harvesting garlic scapes, of course! Though Andrews does instruct growers to remove flowers from stalks to redirect energy to their bulbs, he doesn't highlight the culinary value this pruning could offer. As the scapes of hardneck garlic are one of the best parts about it, I'd recommend that this bulletin be paired with a chat with an experienced Master Gardener or a review of the seed catalog instructions from growers' seed garlic orders. Enjoy! Photo Credit: Book Jacket (1)

< Back Preparing Your Trees and Evergreens for Winter Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener and Brynne Eisele, Master Gardener We’ve all heard that there are only two seasons in Minnesota---Winter and Getting Ready for Winter (or is it Road Repair?). In any event, Minnesota’s harsh winter can cause severe damage to landscape plants. The big three threats are sun, cold and critters. Happily, there are a number of things you can do this fall to protect your trees and shrubs from the Terrible Trio. Sun Damage. On a clear winter day, the sun can heat up the bark of a tree or the needles of an evergreen to the point where the cells will come out of dormancy. When the sun sets or goes behind a cloud cover, the temperature in the cells rapidly drops, killing the exposed plant tissue. This “sun scald” is most likely to occur on the bark of young or thin-skinned trees such as cherry, crabapple, honey locust, linden, maple, mountain ash or plum. To prevent sunscald, wrap the trunk of susceptible trees with a white plastic tree guard available at most nurseries and on-line. Stay away from brown paper tree wrap or black tree guards as they will absorb heat rather than reflect it. You should wrap newly planted trees for at least two winters and thin-barked species for five or more winters. Apply the tree guards in the fall and remove in the spring after the last frost. A white plastic tree guard applied to a new planting. Evergreens are susceptible to similar injury, especially with early cold weather in the fall or a spring cold snap after new growth has begun. Although all evergreens are susceptible to this “winter browning”, yew, hemlock, and arborvitae as well as new transplants are especially so. Several measures can reduce winter evergreen injury. When planting susceptible species, consider placing them in areas protected from wind and winter sun such as the north or northwest side of buildings. If a plant is exposed, a barrier of burlap on the windward (usually the south or southwest) side can help. As with deciduous trees, watering in the late fall before a hard frost can make a big difference. Don’t prune after August as this may stimulate growth that a frost will “nip in the bud.” Commercial anti-desiccants and anti-transpirant sprays have not been found to be helpful. Cold Damage. Cold weather can kill trees and shrubs if conditions are right. The cold accomplishes this be freezing the root system which is much more cold-sensitive than the stems of branches. What normally protects the root system of a tree or evergreen is the relative warmth of the surrounding earth. The soil cools less rapidly than air. Any insulation from a snow-cover or mulch will further increase soil and root warmth. Thus, to reduce root injury cover newly planted trees and shrubs with 3 to 4 inches of shredded wood mulch. You should pull the mulch away from the trunk about 6 inches to create a “doughnut” not a “volcano”! Watering is also critical. Moist soil retains heat much better than dry soil. If the fall has been dry water heavily before the ground freezes. This will reduce frost penetration. Before you mulch, check new plantings for cracks in the soil. These act as cold air conduits. Fill them in with soil. Critter Damage. If you have a manageable number of trees and shrubs to protect, the best defense is to surround the plant or trunk with ¼ inch mesh hardware cloth 6 inches away from the plant. This will prevent animals from reaching through to do their damage. Keep in mind the anticipated snow line as it’s important to protect 1-2 feet above the snow line with the hardware cloth to prevent animals from nibbling partway up the plant. It is also important to bury the bottom of the hardware cloth 2-3 inches below the soil surface to reduce the chance of animals tunneling underneath. For smaller, less established trees you may be able to use plastic white tree guards. If you have large number of trees and shrubs to protect, consider applying an organic repellant. Coated hardware cloth cylinder sunk 2-3 inches below ground. Reducing the desirable habitat will help decrease protective cover and nesting locations. This can be done by cutting grass and other vegetation short in a 2 foot radius around young trees and shrubs. It also helps to remove brush piles and add fencing to other hiding places such as under decks. While hungry animals in winter may gnaw on your trees and shrubs no matter the protective measures you take, these methods can significantly reduce the amount and severity of damage. Deer, however, are a different story. They often adapt to repellents and a change of product is frequently necessary to discourage them. In late winter when they are starving, even that won’t stop them. Thus, a physical barrier is often the only way to manage deer. That can be a tough proposition though. Fences should be at least 8 feet high and of sturdy construction. However, a hungry deer if given a running start can clear a 12-foot barrier. You might try an electric fence such as used for cattle. Deer populations have been exploding in Minnesota as we have eliminated their natural predators. Maybe a few wolves here and there aren’t so bad. For more information on this complex subject, check out the University of Minnesota Extension: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/protecting-trees-and-shrubs-winter Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back Pound Flowers for Summer Fun Brenda Hansell, Master Gardener Many of the flowers you have enjoyed throughout the summer will soon fade away. Even cut flowers last only a few days in the house. Here is a fun way to preserve flowers and entertain the children. Flower pounding is an easy activity for most any age. Adult guidance and assistance will vary from child to child. When complete, my granddaughter jumped up, threw her hands in the air and shouted: “YAY, ART!!” (‘nuf said.) Read this article to learn how to share this fun activity with the child in your life. Materials: Watercolor paper (optional card stock) Parchment or wax paper Masking tape Hammer or mallet Fresh flowers Steps: 1) Gather the flowers. Bright colors such as red, yellow, and blue release more intense pigments. 2) Trim off the stems close enough to the base of the flower to permit it to lay flat while keeping the bloom intact. Use some of the leaves as well. 3) Flowers with large centers, such as cone flowers, will require removal of the thick center. Use only the carefully placed petals. Otherwise, there will be too much dark pollen “explosion.” (Though it does create a rather interesting, abstract appearance!) 4) Work on a hard, flat surface 5) Arrange the flowers face down on the watercolor paper. 6) Carefully cover with the wax paper 7) Press down firmly on the wax paper and tape in place 8) To get the feel of how firmly to pound & which flowers transfer best, you may want to try one or two “practice flowers” on a separate paper. (This is an optional step.) 9) Using firm pressure begin pounding the flowers, working in from the edges 10) Carefully, lift the wax paper to check the transfer 11) Continue pounding until desired effect is achieved. 12) Some pieces of petals and leaves may stick to the paper. Gently use your fingernail to scratch them off. 13) Frame and admire the finished piece of ART! Note, some folks embellish the print with colored pencils or fine painted brush strokes. Photo credits: Branda Hansell (all)

< Back Make Seed Tape with Your Child Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Growing your own vegetables has many benefits. It is a source of delicious food, of course. But it is also a source of wonder for adults and children alike. You can share the wonder with the child in your life by planting vegetable seeds. In this article, learn how to create and plant nice, straight rows of perfectly spaced garden vegetables by using seed tape. A perfect gardening activity for you and your child or grandchild. It’s easy to plant nice, straight rows of perfectly spaced garden vegetables when you use seed tape. You can buy seed tape, but it’s much more fun to make your own, using seeds for vegetables your child enjoys eating, plus a few household items you probably have on hand. You will need: Seeds Single-ply toilet paper (you can separate the paper layers if it is two-ply) Toothpicks Ruler Marker 2 tablespoons of white flour 1 tablespoon of water 1. Choose seeds that have time to mature in Minnesota. Minnesota has a shorter growing season than many states, so select varieties of seeds that will mature more quickly. To find out how long the growing season is where you live, consult the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources’ Final Spring/First Fall Freeze & Frost Date Propabilities . Then, compare that timing with the “Days to Harvest” on seed packets or online—the average number of days from planting until it’s time to harvest, according to Oregon State University. 2. Prepare the toilet paper. Roll out the toilet paper, tearing it off in two or three-foot lengths. If the toilet paper is two-ply, separate the layers. Fold the paper in half along its length, creasing the folded edge, then open, creating a furrow. 3. Measure and mark the toilet paper. Refer to the seed packet to find the spacing distance between seeds. If the distance between seeds should be 2”, use a ruler to measure and mark in the furrow every 2” from one end of the toilet paper strip to the other. 4. Make homemade edible glue, and use it to affix a seed at each mark on the paper . Mix the 2 tablespoons of white flour with 1 tablespoon of water to make glue. Dip a toothpick in the glue, pick up one seed, and place it on each mark on the toilet paper strip. 5. Seal and roll. When seeds have been placed on all the marks on the paper, place more glue dots along one long edge of the toilet paper. Fold the paper on the crease, covering the seeds; press along the long edge. Allow the glue to dry for at least two hours. Then, roll up each strip of toilet paper. Store in a cool, dry spot until planting time. After the last frost date in your area, roll out the tape in your garden bed, cover with soil to the planting depth on the seed packet, and water. Then, watch the magic begin. Photo Credit: Marie Stolte (1,2,3) & www.thegardeningme.com (4)

< Back China Bayles Series By Susan Wittig Albert In the mood for a little light reading while exploring the world of herbs? Master Gardener and herb expert Shari Mayer reviews the “China Bayles” mystery series by Susan Wittig Albert. Each of the multiple volume mystery series centers around a particular herb. Read this article to learn more about this clever and informative mystery series. Reviewed By Shari Mayer, Master Gardener In the mood for a little light reading with an educational bent? Check out the China Bayles series by Susan Wittig Albert. This series can be likened to ‘The Cat Who…’ mystery novels, by Lilian Jackson Braun. Even if you’re not a mystery buff, these books are delightful and you learn a lot about herbs along the way. It’s a lovely read for a road trip, up at the cabin, or just sitting on your porch after a long day gardening. This series is comprised of 28 mysteries to date, each centering around a particular herb. It’s a great way to explore the world of herbs. I would recommend reading in order, although it’s not required. Albert has been publishing this series since 1992, garnering several awards along the way, including the Agatha award. She has a Ph.D. in English from Berkeley, and has also published under pen names, including Carolyn Keene and Robin Paige. In this series China Bayles is a high-powered attorney, who left that world behind to open an herb shop in a small Texas town. Each book is centered around a particular herb, and it’s amazing how much you learn about that herb as the plot thickens. I’ve been recommending this series for years now, and it doesn’t matter your age or inclination, everyone seems to love them. If you haven’t tried them, now’s the time. I used to get them from the library, but I hear Kindle, as well as Amazon Prime, both have options. Happy reading!

< Back The Great Green Herb Salad For salad lovers, summertime is a celebration. Finally, we can eat fresh greens from our own gardens or, perhaps, picked up from a local farmers’ market. This article provides some ideas for making delicious salads using a variety of greens and herbs in creative ways. As you read this article, you can almost smell the scents of freshly cut greens and herbs. Liz Townley, Dakota Count Master Garden Intern It’s such a simple thing, a fresh green salad. With the right selections, a fresh green salad can be on your table within minutes. Whether you grow your own greens, get them from a farmers’ market, the grocery store or a friend, getting fresh greens can be both an easy or difficult task. Years ago, I watched a live demo at the Heritage Library in Lakeville by a gardener who knew what combinations to bring to the table. She had brought a variety of greens – basil, fennel, bok choy, thyme and butter lettuce. We watched her as she carefully laid out the greens and then carefully sliced through them releasing such a wonderful scent. The crowd watched as she explained how she adds different greens to her salads to pair with different dishes. She said that she doesn’t really obey any rules, but rather seeks what’s in season at the time. It’s the freshness of the greens and the season that determines her ingredients. We were delighted that gave out samples to us in the crowd. No dressing was used as she topped off her greens simply with a little olive oil and salt and pepper! She said if you wanted a little more tang to your salads, use a balsamic vinegar! When we go to the store, it is tempting to pick up the ready to eat prepackaged salad kits. It’s fast and convenient so we rarely think about freshness. It’s a salad, so it must be fresh, right? This is exactly why I love the summer season. Besides growing our own greens, the next best fresh thing to do is to pick up truly fresh greens from a farmers’ market. Photo credit: www.forestry.com Have you ever wondered why the greens we grow or buy from farmers’ market taste so much better than what we get from a store? Many of the salad kits are shipped from other parts of our country. We are lucky that grocery stores do carry some vegetables from local sources, but not much is in the leafy green category. Like when you cut a flower, the simple act of disconnecting a leaf from a stem starts the decay process. Some salads get moldy faster than others depending on moisture content of the leaves. Let’s take a closer look at some greens that we commonly grow here. You have your leafy herbs like basil . Basil has so many varieties. As an annual, we can grow almost any variety. It adds a nice punch of flavor especially when you slice it. Next would be the kales , spinach and Swiss chard greens that some people tend to stay away from. The kale stalk can have a little bitterness, so if you don’t like that sharpness, just pluck it off the stem. I have heard people say that they are ‘too healthy’ to eat; but they are excellent in a light olive oil, garlic and pepper sauté. Lettuce , endive and radicchio are leafy greens in the aster family. They are known as basics for making your salad. It is fun to experiment during the summer taking a lettuce and adding something that you haven’t tried in the past. I have found bok choy to be an interesting addition to my salad for its incredible crunchiness. Another surprise for me was beet greens . They are similar to Swiss chard in texture and both can be cooked. Spinach is another very versatile green that can be eaten in your salads and sandwich raw just as you would a regular lettuce leaf. It is often used in egg dishes, pastas and dips. How about making up your own combinations for a mighty green salad? This time be a little daring. Here are some ideas for making a great herb salad: p arsley, watercress, and chives shine in this easy and versatile herb salad recipe. Dress the salad with an intense, garlicky vinaigrette for a simple, healthy side dish. What is it? An herb salad is a salad made from fresh, leafy green herbs. It can include parsley, cilantro, watercress, mint, basil, chervil, or dill. And just about any fragrant leafy herb works in this recipe. The herbs you use depends on the season. Photo credit: www.virginiaespin29.blogspot.com ] Occasionally, edible flowers, such as chive blossoms, nasturtiums or violets, are also added to the salad. Some cooks add the herbs to a bed of other leafy greens, such as lettuce, arugula, or bitter greens. The salad is typically served with a vinaigrette. Key Ingredients: In this herb salad recipe, we use a base of dandelion greens and watercress and add fresh parsley, chives, and chervil. However, you can add just about any herbs you like and have on hand. Dandelion greens are a bitter, nutritious herb that is rich in beta carotene, vitamin C, vitamin K, and minerals. Dandelion salad is delicious with a bitter note, but the greens also form a foundation for other herbs in this recipe. You can also cook dandelions, as in a wilted dandelion salad. (Note – make sure not to use dandelions that have been treated with an herbicide or other chemical.) Watercress is a member of the mustard family. It has a peppery taste reminiscent of horseradish and is a nice partner for dandelion. It is also rich in vitamin K, vitamin C, and various minerals. Parsley has a clean, green flavor. It is also rich in beta-carotene and vitamin K, and is traditionally used to support the kidneys. Chervil has a delicate sweet flavor, and it tastes like a cross between tarragon and parsley. Chives bring a delicate onion-like flavor to the salad. Chives are rich in vitamin K. They also contain antioxidants called glucosinolates. These glucosinolates support cellular health in the same way as onions and garlic. Garlic helps give body and flavor to the vinaigrette, and it also balances the bitter notes of the dandelion greens. Extra virgin olive oil is the foundation of the vinaigrette. Olive oil contains a healthy mono-unsaturated fat. This helps you to absorb the fat-soluble micronutrients in leafy greens and herbs. Red wine vinega r brings a note of acidity to the vinaigrette. It’s a natural match for robust herbs – especially dandelion and watercress. Dijon mustard helps to emulsify the vinaigrette, and it also partners well with watercress, chives, and parsley. Recipe Tips: Making any salad should be straightforward. There’s plenty of latitude for experimentation and substitutions. Remember, there are a few things to keep in mind when you make an herb salad. . Forage for wild herbs , such as dandelion greens, in safe places. Stay away from roadways and fields sprayed with pesticides and other chemicals. Soak your herbs in a bowlful of cold water; then dry them in a salad spinner. This will remove grit and other debris. It also helps keep them crisp and vibrant. Discard bruised or discolored herbs . Clean your herbs thoroughly. Soak them in a bowl full of cold water; then spin them dry in a salad spinner. Use what’s available and in season . In the spring, that means dandelions, cress, and chives. In summer, you might opt for parsley, basil, and cilantro. Run the garlic through a garlic press or mince it finely for a more uniform vinaigrette. Thoroughly mix the ingredients for the vinaigrette so that it emulsifies effectively and becomes smooth. Adding them to a mason jar and shaking them thoroughly works, but so does running it through a high-speed blender. Herb Salad Recipe This simple spring herb salad features dandelion greens, peppery watercress, parsley, and chives touched with a garlicky vinaigrette. Serve it with grilled chicken or salmon or as a partner for a springtime soup. Ingredients: For the Salad 2 cups dandelion greens (torn) 3 cups watercress leaves ½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley ¼ cup snipped chives ¼ cup chopped chervil For the Vinaigrette 4 medium cloves garlic minced ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Equipment: mixing bowl salad tongs or utensils Instructions: Toss all the greens into a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the garlic, salt, pepper, mustard, olive oil, and vinegar together until well-mixed and lightly emulsified. Dress the salad and serve immediately. Photo credit: www.marthastewart.com *Material from this article sourced from the University of Minnesota Extension office. * How to Make a Simple Herb Salad Nourishedkitchen.com

< Back What the HECK is a CARDOON??? Had any cardoons as your vegetable lately? What’s a cardoon you say? You won’t be alone if you have never heard of this vegetable. It is more commonly grown and eaten in Mediterranean countries. However, this vegetable can be grown in Minnesota and is available in some grocery stores at this time of year. Read this article if you are interested in a vegetable that offers something different. Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Invited to see someone’s “cardoons”, I wouldn’t know whether to expect a company of gerbil-like creatures romping around in a cage or necklaces made of rare berries. But imagine being presented with a dish of leaves and stalks and invited to eat the cardoons! Cardoons, it turns out, are vegetables, similar to globe artichokes. Grown from Portugal to Libya and Croatia, cardoons, with their artichoke-like flavor, were popular in ancient Greek, Roman, and Persian cuisine through the Middle Ages. They were also used in colonial America and early modern periods in Europe. Once almost entirely a Mediterranean vegetable, cardoons recently returned to the American market. Although not as common as their cousin the artichoke, you can usually find them at farmers' markets, specialty grocers, and upscale grocery stores when they are in season . Unlike artichokes, the tender young leaves and undeveloped flower stalks are eaten, not the flower bud. A winter vegetable, cardoons arrive in stores around December and hang around until early spring. They can keep for weeks in the fridge. Buy them firm and pale. Most of the top leaves will be chopped off already, making them look a lot like celery, although MUCH longer. Cardoons are perennials up to zone 7 and sometimes zone 6 (if mounded with soil during the winter), so they are grown in Minnesota as annuals. They require at least 8 hours of sunlight, and they prefer well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.5–7.0. Add compost or well-rotted manure to improve the soil. Cardoons need a lot of space to spread - plant them 2–3 feet apart in rows 3–6 feet apart. Tall varieties may need staking. Cardoons are easy to grow from seed so they can be started indoors 6–8 weeks before the last frost, or you can buy container-grown plants. Cardoons need 100 days to grow from seed to harvest. Propagate cardoons by seeds, suckers, or root division. Both plants and seeds are available online. Blanch the stalks before harvest. Accomplish this by tying up the outer branches a foot or so from the top of the plant and piling soil up around the plant as it grows. This keeps sunlight from reaching the stalks which then keeps chlorophyll from forming, making the stalks more tender and easier to cook. Cardoons can be prepared a number of different ways, although – be forewarned - all of them are labor intensive. The tough ridges of the outer stalks must first be removed and many recipes require hours of soaking. But cardoons can be eaten raw, dipped in hummus or nut butter, the leaves tossed in salads, the stalks cut in pieces, fried, (after being peeled, soaked, poached and breaded), or added to stews, especially those cooked in crock pots. Additional ways to prepare cardoons after initial trimming and blanching include: Cardoons Gratin , in which they are baked with olive oil and cheese. Delicious and well worth making if you only plan to eat cardoons once in a great while. Cardoons in a bechamel sauce. Cardoon risotto . Silky, rich, and the slight bitterness of the cardoons really balances everything nicely. Blanched with bagna cauda , a garlicky-anchovy sauce. Excellent as a canape . In a salad , tossed in a vinaigrette. Simple and good. Use only the innermost stalks, washed well and sliced thin. Fried . An excellent if simple dish. Also, an unusual appetizer, especially coated in chickpea flour and fry with olive oil. And finally - are you ready for this ? - the cardoon’s flowers can be used to make cheese . The enzymes in its dried flowers, when mixed with milk, curdle, albeit slowly. Which results in a rennet which is creamier than calf’s rennet. Portugal, where the cardoon is popular, produces several cheeses using its rennet because of its earthy and tangy flavor. If you enjoy cooking unusual foods, and don’t mind a long preparation time for something really different and tasty, cardoons are for you. Enjoy this ancient and unique vegetable! REFERENCES “Cardoon, Cynara cardunculus”, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/cardoon-cynara-cardunculus/ “Cardoon”, https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/cardoon.html Shaw, Hunter, “Growing and Cooking Cardoons”, https://honest-food.net/contemplating-cardoons/ Smith, Annabelle K., “What the Heck Do I Do with a Cardoon”, Smithsonian Magazine , https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/what-heck-do-i-do-cardoon-180950301/ Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1), Inpraiseofsardines.typepad.com (2)

< Back How to Prepare Your Garden for Young Children Kristin Beardsley Schoenherr, Master Gardener Whether it’s children or grandchildren, nieces, nephews, or other little ones, it’s great to include them in the garden. Gardens are a place to grow fruits, vegetables, or flowers, and enjoy nature. Who better to enjoy gardens with than young children? But those little hands and minds can have a hard time if the garden is not designed with them in mind. This article will discuss how to design your garden considering the needs of little ones and how to prepare activities so they can be successful gardening and grow a joy for it. Whether it’s children or grandchildren, nieces, nephews, or other little ones, it’s great to include them in the garden. Gardens are a place to grow fruits, vegetables, or flowers, and enjoy nature. Who better to enjoy gardens with than young children? But those little hands and minds can have a hard time if the garden is not designed with them in mind. This article will discuss how to design your garden considering the needs of little ones and how to prepare activities so they can be successful gardening and grow a joy for it. Tools for planting and weeding: A little bucket and child sized trowel are perfect for weeding and planting. You can show your child how to dig a hole by putting the dirt into a bucket. Then place the bulb or seedling and pour the dirt back into the hole. Similarly, the set can be used for weeding by digging out the weeds and putting them in the bucket. Don’t forget to show the child where to dump the weeds. Planting seeds: Small children’s fine motor skills are just developing so it’s hard to hold and plant seeds. Putting the seeds in a little cup allows them to securely hold the seeds and choose one to plant. I also find that our daughter steals my kneeling pad, so I have a special little one for her to go get. Watering plants: Choose a little watering can that is small enough for your child to lift and carry independently when full. I like a sprinkle head for outdoor use. If possible, it’s really nice to have a way for your child to fill the watering can on their own as well. Harvesting: Harvest time is the best time! I find that children are likely to at least try the fruit and veggies they plant and harvest. Native strawberries are great ground-cover even in partial shade and provide tons of sweet little berries to pick and eat or freeze for the winter. Have a special little bowl to encourage more collecting and less eating, or collecting and eating. Dining : Don’t forget a sweet little spot to eat your delicious harvest. A Place for Everything and Everything in it’s Place: Have a place to store your child’s gardening supplies that they can reach and access on their own. When we keep this area nicely organized they know how to get their things and can be responsible for putting them away. Let’s be honest, my daughter doesn’t always put her things away on her own, but a consistent set-up will allow her to do this as she matures. We keep out child-sized tools needed for the current season. Here you can see her watering can, dish for seeds, kneeling mat, and gardening tote. The tote includes a child-sized metal trowel, fork, gardening gloves, and bucket. I did not put out the turtle labels that came with the set, and we bought her some better fitting gloves. She truly uses these tools to garden, something plastic and easily breakable would be frustrating. Other seasonal tools might include a rake for leaves in the fall or shovel for snow in the winter. A Children’s Garden: Some children and families enjoy having a designated space for a children’s garden. This can be a place for the child to make all their own choices. I find that children enjoy gardening the whole garden and don’t want to only garden in the children’s area. Little children benefit from quiet moments of independent observation and interaction in the garden. Children love little pathways and other things that make a garden fun like garden art and wind chimes. Consider including elements that are at their level. Gardens can be for playing as well! If children getting dirty stresses you out, have a clean-up plan that the children understand before they get started. We enjoy having a sand box, fairy garden, and swings in our garden as well. I can work while the children do what they enjoy. Photo credits: Kristin Beardsley Schoenherr (1 - 11)

< Back Making Something Lovely After the Blooms Have Faded Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s October in Minnesota and most of your plants are no longer blooming. It’s always a bit sad to see your colorful garden fade for the season. But many of these flowers leave behind lovely seed pods or lovely flowers heads. This article shows you how you can take dried plants from your garden and turn them into a beautiful wreath to enjoy inside. It’s October and most of your flowers are probably no longer blooming. Last year at this time I took a walk around my yard and noticed how many lovely seed pods, dried flower heads, and grass stalks were still waving in the fall breeze. Usually, I fill baskets with them or vases (no water) and set them all over the house for natural, soft color pallet decorations. This year I decided to try my hand at making a wreathe. It wasn’t difficult, just took some time. Boy did it make a mess, but that’s what vacuum cleaners are for, right? Since I had so many dried flowers and grasses, I bought a very large grapevine wreathe to use for my base. I thought I would have to hot melt glue the stems to it, or wire them, or sew them, like I did with the cayenne pepper wreath that was featured a few years ago in the Garden Buzz. This time I kept the stems long when I cut everything out of the gardens, and it worked just fine to gently weave them through the grapevine. Take some time to plan your layout, coming up with a pleasing design based on what you have. For the wreathe pictured here, I used Globe Hydrangea, Garlic Chive, Pampas Grass, Pearly Everlasting and a few ornamental thistle heads. It’s a good idea to spray the entire thing with cheap aerosol hairspray when you are done before you hang it up. Spray it outside. This will help hold the blooms and grasses as they continue to dry out over the years. Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)