< Back Protecting Bulbs for Winter Autumn in Minnesota is the time to prepare your bulbs for next year’s growing season, whether that is tucking in your hardy bulbs for their winter sleep (and protecting them from foraging critters!) or retrieving your tender bulbs for indoor storage to spare them from the harsh cold. Read on to learn more about what to do this season for beautiful blooms next year! Jessica Nguyen, Master Gardener Tubers, rhizomes, corms, and true bulbs are commonly referred to using the overarching colloquialism “bulbs.” Bulbs are underground storage structures that carry both the genetic material for a plant for propagation and a food supply to kickstart plant growth. Some examples of bulbs you might have in your garden are daylilies and cyclamen; irises; gladiolus flowers, crocuses, and freesias; daffodils and tulips. Autumn in Minnesota is the time to prepare your bulbs for next year’s growing season, whether that is tucking in your hardy bulbs for their winter sleep (and protecting them from foraging critters!) or retrieving your tender bulbs for indoor storage to spare them from the harsh cold. Read on to learn more about what to do this season for beautiful blooms next year! Know your plant: There are generally two routes for winterizing bulbs, depending on whether the bulb is hardy or tender. Hardy bulbs require the cold winter temperatures to kickstart biochemical processes necessary for their next bloom cycle. They generally bloom in early spring to early summer (think crocuses or daffodils. Crocuses are some of the earliest-blooming flowers that have a bulb structure underground (it’s actually a corm!) Tender bulbs can’t survive the cold temperatures and are planted in the spring to bloom during the summer months (e.g. dahlias, elephant ears, begonias, amaryllis.) Amaryllis hippeastrum Candy Floss In-ground hardy bulb overwintering: for that pleasant spring surprise! Hardy bulbs need the winter chill to flower in the spring, and should be planted in the fall in order to get that necessary cold cycle. Plant your bulbs according to the specific recommended planting depth and spacing for the plant, mark where you’ve planted your bulbs so you don’t forget about them, then watch and wait. Many hardy bulbs are perennials that you may have planted in previous seasons! For hardy bulbs that are already in the ground, trim away foliage in the fall after it has had plenty of time to die back naturally, clear away debris from the previous bloom season, cover the bulbs back up, and leave them be! Planting Crocus Bulbs You should water hardy bulbs up until the first frost, even if the foliage has died down. The wet soil helps to ensure the bulbs don’t dry out or wither before they are able to freeze for the winter. Hardy bulbs can survive the winter chill because even though the air temperature in Minnesota winters can reach incredibly low temperatures and can fluctuate wildly, soil temperatures can stay much more consistent at just below freezing. At these temperatures, moisture in hardy bulbs freezes without damaging the cells of the plant. It is important, therefore, to plant your bulbs at the appropriate depth, to make sure that they are under enough soil to appropriately buffer against the winter cold. See this article by Dominic Christensen on soil temperatures during winter and the buffering effects of snow. Sometimes, bulbs will emerge prematurely due to random periods of warmer weather in late winter, damaging tender growth of the bulb when the temperatures eventually dip back below freezing. For areas that are subject to freeze-thaw cycles (think, that weird February-March time when it is 70℉ one week and -30℉ the next) covering the soil with a 6-inch layer of mulch or straw will protect the bulbs from moisture and temperature fluctuations. Container gardens are more susceptible to freeze-thaw complications, so a protective layer is a must. Critter considerations for bulbs left in the ground: No matter how busy we gardeners are as we prepare our gardens for the winter months, critters are even busier foraging for food to bulk up before the snow falls. There are a couple of ways to keep animals from nibbling on bulbs in autumn, such as: ● Using physical barriers such as row covers, wire mesh, or cages around your bulbs to prevent animals from accessing them. For gardens susceptible to animal attacks from underground, lining the interior of your planting area with a barrier of wire mesh before burying bulbs, may offer protection. Just make sure that the material that you use has openings large enough such that root production of the bulbs is not hindered, while still small enough to block underground wildlife. ● Utilizing planting practices such as mixing in crushed stones into the dirt when you plant your bulbs to deter digging and chewing. ● Hiding evidence of bulbs by clearing away debris from dead foliage; or, by covering newly planted bulbs with a groundcover plant or a layer of mulch. ● Planting only bulbs that are unappetizing to critters, or mixing in your desired bulbs with bulbs that are unappetizing. Some examples of bulbs that animals tend to avoid are daffodils[1] , alliums[2] , hyacinths[3] , grape [4] hyacinths (Muscari varieties,) squills[5] , and snowdrops[6] . TLC for tender bulbs: Many varieties of bulb plants cannot survive our severe Minnesota winters. Some examples of tender bulbs include canna lilies, calla lilies, and caladiums. Dig these bulbs up in the late fall before the first frost, but after the greenery has died off naturally (important for allowing the bulb to gather energy for its next blooms!) They should be stored indoors in a cool, dry place. For these bulbs, avoid freezing temperatures, which can damage the cells of the bulb. It is important to also avoid excess moisture, which can cause mold and rot, while allowing the bulbs to stay plump and retain enough water to survive the duration of storage. Dig up your bulbs and spray or brush off soil that clings to the bulbs. This is important: dry or cure your bulbs for three to seven days at room temperature in an area with plenty of airflow to remove excess moisture before storage. When you touch the cut end of the stem coming out of the bulb, it should feel dry. Otherwise, continue to cure the bulbs. Optional: dust with an antifungal. Store only large, healthy bulbs, as damaged bulbs may not survive storage or may invite rot, and smaller bulbs may dry up before spring. Store bulbs in a container that allows plenty of airflow, such as a wicker basket, or a mesh bag. Bulbs should be stored at an average of 40 degrees without freezing, such as in a cold corner of a basement, a warm fridge, or a temperature-controlled garage. Check on your bulbs periodically (at least once a month) to remove any rotting or molded bulbs, as one bad bulb can spoil the whole batch! https://www.pexels.com/photo/yellow-daffodil-flower-on-brown-soil-8259616/ https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Allium_aflatunense_%27Purple%27_5_2021_ornamental_onion-_%2851187451616%29.jpg https://pxhere.com/en/photo/995895 https://www.pxfuel.com/en/free-photo-xizda https://www.flickr.com/photos/pavdw/17160679352/in/photostream/ https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Common_Snowdrops_%28Galanthus_nivalis%29_%2825742401103%29.jpg Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,5), Creative Commons Crocus , Anatomy (2), en.wikipedia.org , all creative commons (3), www.wilsonbrosonline.com , all creative commons (4)

< Back Ground Cover Plants May Be Just What You Need Kristina Valle, Master Gardener Whatever stage your garden is in, there is one plant that you can always find space for but is often an afterthought in the garden. This article will guide you through the uses, care, and selections of our Perennial Plant of the Month: Ground Covers. Walking through the gates of your local nursery is sure to stir up feelings of excitement and inspiration. After a long, gray winter, it’s hard not to be pulled towards all the colors and textures that were missing over the season and imagine where you could find room in your garden to fit them all. Maybe your garden is well seasoned and as summer progresses, bursts at the seams. Or maybe you’re in the beginning stages and there is a lot of space left for your plants to mature. Whatever stage your garden is in, there is one plant that you can always find space for but is often an afterthought in the garden. This article will guide you through the uses, care, and selection for our Perennial Plant of the Month: Ground Covers. Each year, many of us fill in open spaces with annuals, however, you can save yourself time and expense by investing in some ground covers. This season I plan to fill a 50+ foot long by 5-foot-tall rock wall with as much creeping phlox as I can get my hands on. There is nothing better than having early signs of spring cascading over and across your landscape and knowing that it will return year after year, lusher and more vibrant than the year before. Beauty isn’t the only benefit that comes from incorporating ground covers into your garden. It may surprise you to learn that there are several ways ground covers can also help solve some common landscape challenges. Bugleweed USES On Slopes Many homeowners in Minnesota live on a property that has some level of slope, or perhaps a hilly, hard to mow area. Ground covers are a terrific option not only for erosion control, but to add something beautiful to your property where it might be challenging or unsafe to provide upkeep with a mower In Shade In mature landscapes, where spreading canopies cast wide shadows across the lawn, ground cover can be used to fill in spots where other plants won’t grow. They are also very happy growing over tree roots In High Traffic Areas If you’re looking to add some greenery to an area where kids and pets frequently run through, look no further than ground covers. Certain ground covers are durable enough to withstand foot traffic while maintaining form and sometimes even releasing a fragrance when disturbed Weed Control Weeds are opportunists. Adding ground cover to an open area gives weeds little hope in maturing when they must compete with a healthy carpet of ground cover In Gaps Rock walls and gaps between steppingstones are ideal locations to add ground cover which will help soften the rough landscape edges As Companion Plants Looking for a low growing perennial to keep the roots of your clematis cool? Add some ground cover plants! Kamtschaticum Sedum CARE As a low maintenance plant, ground covers don’t ask for much and in many cases, once established, can handle challenging soil and site conditions. Pruning is usually not needed unless you’re cutting out dead stems or spent flowers, or you need to tame a section for aesthetics or function, for instance clearing part of a path. SELECTION Before selecting a ground cover, be sure to consider your hardiness zone, soil and available light for the plant. No matter what your ground cover interest or need, you’re sure to find a ground cover plant that will fit the bill. Here are some ideas to get you started. Evergreen Creeping Phlox Candy Tuft Bugleweed Cotoneaster Bearberry Creeping Juniper Siberian Cypress Sedum Evergreen Periwinkle Bearberry Flowering / Fragrant Creeping Thyme Various varieties of sedum Sweet Woodruff Bugleherb (Bugleweed) Creeping Juniper Snow-in-Summer Soapwort Tolerates Light Foot Traffic Scotch Moss Bugleweed Creeping Jenny Large Fillers Lambs Ears Hosta Groundcover just may be the practical and economic answer to your gardening need. I little plant may go a long way. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3) & Julie Harris (2)

< Back Woodland Phlox (Phlox divaricate): A Big Punch in a Little Packet Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener It’s that beautiful carpet of pastels appearing in moist woodlands across the Midwest in the spring – Woodland Phlox. Otherwise known as “Sweet William,” this native plant has many reasons to be at home in your garden. Read more about the virtues of Woodland Phlox and then decide if you will grow it from seed or as an established plant. Not only will you enjoy this plant but pollinators love it as well. The Phlox family (Polimoniaceae), tend to be a diminutive bunch, with delicate spring blooms. Their delicacy is both charming and deceptive as they are a persistent bunch that will form a lovely groundcover if left to their own devices. This is certainly true of woodland phlox which is found across the entire Midwest although more prevalent in the northwest, inclusive of the deciduous forests of Minnesota. There it can carpet the ground, blooming from mid to late spring. You will find it most profusely in a mesic forest, that is, one in which an ample supply of moisture is found throughout the growing season. It will however grow in most woodlands as long as there is moisture during its blooming season in spring. Ironically, woodland phlox is very summer drought resistant. Thus, it is hardy across the Midwest from Zones 3 through 8. Woodland phlox readily grows from seed and will self-sow quite vigorously. This is an important characteristic, as the individual plant is fairly short-lived for a perennial at 3 to 5 years. As you might imagine, it is a shade-loving plant but will tolerate part sun. As it blooms in the spring, the light blue flowers exude its delicate perfume earning its other name of ‘Sweet William.’ Woodland phlox in bloom in a mesic forest Woodland phlox combines quite well with a variety of other woodland, shade-loving plants. It fits in nicely with other later-blooming groundcovers or larger shade perennials. The springtime stalks rarely exceed 18 inches and quickly disintegrate after blooming. Since the foliage often disappears after blooming, it does not make a good stand-alone ground cover and should be integrated with other species. Unfortunately, the bunnies love woodland phlox so it’s best to protect new plantings until a bigger colony is established. As is the case with so many native perennials, woodland phlox is pollinator friendly and attracts bumblebees, sphinx moths, butterflies and hummingbirds. If you are thinking about installing a pollinator lawn, woodland phlox can be integrated into the shady parts quite easily. Woodland phlox blooms range in color from white to soft blue. Occasionally you will find some rosy to purplish flowers. Since these folks do self-seed, the color of various strains will modulate from generation to generation. Yet the perfume of springtime ‘Sweet William’ is ethereal no matter the hue. Woodland phlox blooms may assume a variety of colors Photo Credit: University of Wisconsin Extension (1,2)

< Back Shrub Pruning in Late Summer Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners Some shrubs can be pruned later in the summer but not all of them. Some plants must be pruned right after they bloom so as to not cut off the beginning of next year’s blooms. Learn when it is okay to prune the shrubs in your yard. This article will tell you what you need about grooming your shrubs to keep them healthy and looking their best. Please note that this article discusses late summer pruning. Once Fall arrives, pruning should cease, except for storm damage of course. Pruning in fall encourages growth which will not harden off properly before temperatures fall, exposing that growth and the connected branch to injury or death. Late summer pruning is done for two reasons: 1) damage or disease removal and 2) shrub renovation. Those shrubs that bloom in the spring should be pruned right AFTER blooming so as to NOT cut off next year’s blooms. Lilacs, forsythia, mock orange, azaleas & rhododendron are examples of shrubs to be pruned after blooming in the spring. If renovation is more desirable than next year’s blooms, they can be pruned over the summer or even in the prime pre-spring pruning window. Renovation is often best undertaken when the actual shape of the leaf-covered plant is visible. Plant material damaged by storms, hail, pets, sports in the yard, etc. should always be removed for safety reasons and to limit input points on the plant for disease or insects. This is true in every season. Unless there is disease in the pruning, this material can be discarded with regular yard waste. Plants damaged by disease should be pruned to minimize the spread of the disease. Use the U of M Extension site to identify the problem. After pruning diseased material, sterilize tools and gloves used to halt the spread of the disease. Hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial wipes, Lysol, Pine-Sol and Listerine are all good disinfectants. Diseased material should NOT be put in the regular yard waste but should be placed in a plastic bag, sealed and set in the sun for several days before discarding in the regular trash. Late summer is a less busy time in the garden and is a good time to assess how your shrubs are working in your landscape. If some have become a little “aggressive” or even (horrors!) “shabby,” now is a good time to rein them in. Most deciduous shrubs can be pruned at this time to improve their shape and size. Note that this is NOT true of evergreens except Yews! Evergreens should only be pruned in the spring when their candles are present. The pruning goal is to reduce the plant to the size desired and thin out from the inside, removing inner branches to increase airflow through the plant which encourages healthy growth. Remove the oldest, woody stems right down to the base. One caveat - hedges are often prime nesting places for birds so check for “residents” before taking on that hedge. Wait until the fledglings have taken wing. Some plants which react well to late summer pruning: Roses - encourages fall bloom Alpine currant Barberry Burning Bush - Euonymus alatus Bush honeysuckle Buttonbush Coralberry Cotoneaster Dogwoods Elderberry Fothergilla Gro Low Sumac Ninebark Potentilla Privet St. John’s Wort Smokebush Viburnum Spirea Willow Yew Notice that hydrangea is absent from the list. Pruning hydrangea depends on the type of plant and varies widely. Also, most hydrangeas are in best bloom in late summer. Julie Weisenhorn has a good description of hydrangea pruning on this U of M Extension website . Remember that there are right and wrong ways to prune bushes. For advice about proper methods of pruning, look back at our article from the March 2022 Garden Buzz - March is a Great Time to Prune Many Trees and Shrubs – currently found on the Master Gardeners in Dakota County website. Some shrubs can be pruned later in the summer but not all of them, so get to know when it is okay to prune the shrubs in your yard. Photo Credit: www.forestryimages.org (creative commons) (1)

< Back Straight Info on Zigzag Iris: Iris brevicaulis Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener There are many beautiful varieties of iris that you can choose from for your garden. This article discusses one type of iris that may not be as well known but definitely deserves your consideration - the zigzag iris. The zigzag iris is a native usually found in moist areas of the wild. When they bloom in the spring they put on a striking display of blues and yellows. If you are looking for a gorgeous springtime accent to your pond or stream side or the more moist areas of your garden, Zigzag iris is sure to be a stunning addition. The zigzag iris - given the effort put into creating a staggering variety of iris cultivars, it is amazing how beautiful this native creation is. It’s not “gussied up” with carefully selected genetic traits. Rather its genome has been perfected by thousands of years living on the prairie’s pond sides and river banks. As you might expect, zigzag iris is a hardy and prolific fellow. Although it is usually found in the wild in moist areas of woodlands or by water, it grows quite well in normal garden soil. Native to the Central states of North America it is hardy from USDA Zones 4 to 8, although its natural occurrence in Ontario would make me think you folks up in Duluth can probably plant them in sheltered areas. Zigzag iris blooms in the spring from April to early July, producing blooms ranging in color from violet-blue, to lavender, to purple-blue, to bright blue to blue, and pale blue with yellow and white crested falls (the petals that hang downward). These fellows usually range from 9 to 12 inches in height so you usually don’t have to stake them like their gargantuan German bearded iris cousins. They also spread about 9 to 12 inches. Zigzag iris does best in full sun, (greater than 6 hours of direct sun) but will also do pretty well in part shade (2-6 hours). The plant gets its common name from the peculiarities of its stem. The flower usually is at a 45 degree angle to it. It not infrequently pops up in local nurseries although it is sometimes referred to as Lamance iris or Short-stemmed iris. The easiest way to propagate zigzag iris is by dividing its rhizomes. This is best done from late summer to early spring when the plants are dormant. You will want to dig them in about 6 inches with lots of organic material to promote root growth. If fertilizing this is best done in the very early spring. Be patient as it can take 3 to 4 years until you get good flowering. Once established they usually require little maintenance aside from some division after 4 to 5 years. Deer usually don’t bother them too much. It depends on how hungry they are! Illustration of Iris brevicaulis So, if you are looking for a gorgeous springtime accent to your pond or stream side or the more moist areas of your garden, Zigzag iris is sure to be a stunning addition. Photo credits: Eric Hunt Wikimedia Commons (1), Addisonia , Wikimedia Commons (2)

< Back African Violets Julie Harris, Master Gardener African Violets are one of the most popular houseplants because they require little maintenance and, cared for properly, bloom several times a year. But, as with any plant, they do have specific needs that you must know and pay attention to in order to provide the color and pleasure that you are hoping for. Read this article to understand how to achieve a happy, healthy African Violet in your home. African Violets are a popular houseplant because they are low maintenance and if cared for properly, will bloom several times a year. African Violets ( Saintpaulia ionantha ) were discovered in the 1890s by Baron Walter von Saint Paul in Tanzania. Ionantha refers to the violet color of the flowers, although many hybrids and varieties are now available, including different flower colors. Today, you can find African Violets that are white, pink, maroon, blue, lavender, violet, and deep purple. African Violets can be found in different sizes ranging from 4 to 8 to 16 inches wide to more than 16 inches wide. They have a mounded or round form. Different varieties may have different flower and leaf shapes. The flowers may be single, semi-double, double, ruffled or star shaped. Leaves may be round, heart-shaped or oval and have a fuzzy, velvety texture. African Violets should be planted in containers no more than one-third the width of the plant’s leaf span. They have fine roots and require well-drained soilless potting mix with a pH of about 6.2 – 6.5. Plant containers should have at least one hole in the bottom to allow water to drain. They should be repotted in fresh potting mix once a year. Fertilize the plant each time you water them. Use one-quarter of the recommended amount of fertilizer to keep the roots from being damaged. Fertilizers specially formulated for African Violets can be purchased. In their natural habitat, African Violets received filtered light from the forest canopy. In your house, they need 10 – 16 hours of light and 8 – 10 hours of darkness to flower. They will grow best in a bright, north-oriented exposure; although in the winter months, they may prefer a southern exposure. Fluorescent or LED grow lights can also be used. If your plant has dark, healthy leaves but no blooms, try increasing the light. Conversely, if your plant is not blooming and has pale leaves, reduce the light. As for temperature – if you are comfortable, your African Violet is comfortable. They like 40 – 60% humidity. Grouping plants together is helpful or they can be set on trays of pebbles and water. An even temperature should be maintained and they do not like drafts. Water with room-temperature distilled water or rain water. The potting mix should be moist at all times but not soggy. Overwatering is a common reason that African Violets do not survive. Water just the potting mix as water may cause leaf spots. Do not mist the foliage as it, too, may cause leaf spotting. African Violets can be watered from above but it is not recommended as the plant is susceptible to crown rot. You can also set the pot in a bowl of room-temperature water, 1 – inch deep. When the soil surface feels moist, remove the plant from the water and allow the water to drain from the pot. Do not let the pot sit in water for more than 30 minutes. You can also use a wicking system (see references below) or use self-watering pots. Common problems and solutions: Leaves are long and narrow Not enough light; temperature is too cool Leaves are pale Too much light Plant is limp and wilted Over watering; poor drainage If roots are mushy, brown and slimy, the plant is not likely to survive Leaf spots Water left on leaves Pale leaves, lack of growth Nutrient deficiency, not fertilized regularly Tight plant centers, rusty-colored leaves Over fertilization African Violets can provide many years of pleasure in your house if you follow these fairly straightforward rules for nurturing them. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3)

< Back Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa): Best Friend to Many Pollinators Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Watching Monarch Butterflies flit among the plants in our gardens is among the simple joys of summer in Minnesota. But, as we know, the population of this beautiful butterfly is diminishing. One of the likely causes is loss of habitat – not enough available plants that the larvae and butterfly need for fuel. As this article explains, the Butterfly Milkweed is a native plant that Monarchs favor. For that reason and more, you may want to add this plant to your garden next year. If you are like me, one of the great sights of summer is a flock of Monarch Butterflies dancing about the garden. Their numbers have been diminishing over the past few years. Many entomologists feel that this is due to loss of habitat, as we pave over and grass over many vital native ecosystems that traditionally have supported them on their long migration from Central Mexico. One solution, with a good bit of data to support it, is to create a string of mini-environments of native plants as “refueling stations” for the Monarchs on their journey. One favored source of “fuel” (nectar) is the Butterfly Milkweed. Asclepias tuberosa is a favorite of a number of pollinators. It, along with the other milkweeds, forms an important link in the native ecology of the Midwest, being found from the Eastern Seaboard through to the Rockies. In addition to its vital ecological role, Butterfly Milkweed is a gorgeous yet hardy, low-maintenance plant that will be an attractive addition to your garden. Butterfly Milkweed blooms with a bright orange to reddish yellow flower from late spring to late summer. It has narrow green leaves which serve as an important source of food for Monarch butterfly larvae. It is hardy up through Zone 3, so you North Shore folks are in luck! The plant grows to two to three feet, so it is best placed to the back of your beds. It can be started from either seeds of cuttings. We have a patch in our front which has gradually spread from spontaneous seeding. If you are trying to germinate from seed, remember to put the seeds in a damp cool environment, like a moistened paper towel in a baggie in the fridge, for 4 to 6 weeks before planting. Alternately you can sow the seeds outdoors in the late fall, covering with about ¼ inch of soil. You may not see blooming the first year, however. Photo Credits: www.flickr.com (1) , usda.gov (2)

< Back All About Peonies Tori Clark, Master Gardener Peony is a favorite flower of many northern gardens. The sweet-scented flowers are large and range in colors of pink, red, white and pale yellow with attractive stems of pink to red. Paeonia (pay-own-ee-uh) or peony is a favorite flower of many northern gardens. The sweet-scented flowers are large and range in colors of pink, red, white and pale yellow with attractive stems of pink to red. The foliage remains interesting in the garden all season. Peonies make an excellent border or small hedge but may need the support of a low wire cage to prevent flopping. They are low maintenance when established but need soil preparation and well-drained soil. Let the leaves fade before trimming to allow for the feeding of the roots that fix next years blooms. Peonies are native to China but are suited to northern United States. They need a winter chill and do not thrive in the American south where temperatures do not drop below 20 degrees F. Plant them correctly in full sun, a minimum of six hours a day, in rich soil. A layer of composted manure in the bottom of the hole will get the plant off to a good start. If planted to deep, flower buds will turn brown. Plant the eyes just below the soil surface 1 ½”-2”. The plant may not bloom the first year as it is still developing a root system. Bartzella Itoh Peony Peonies are not native to North America but have an interesting connection to Minnesota. For many years Faribault, Minnesota, was the peony capital of the world, due to the work of O.F. Brand family. O.F. Brand began planting peonies in 1868 from seed, sometimes waiting ten years for the plants to bloom. He sold bare root plants through a mail-order catalog. By 1920, Brand Peonies were the best in the country. The city of Faribault celebrated the fame with a community peony festival that featured a parade and peony queen. The depression ended the festival but Brand Peonies, later known as Tischler Peonies, continued until 1980. For many gardeners the easy maintenance, and fragrant cutting flower make peonies a favorite garden plant. Sources for this article Schier, Mary Lahr. The Northern Gardener: from apples to zinnias, 150 years of garden wisdom. 2017: Minnesota Historical Society, St. Paul, Minnesota. Heger, Mike and John Whitman. Growing Perennials in Cold Climates. 1998: John Whitman Contemporary Books, Lincolnwood, Illinois.

< Back Planting for a Fall Harvest Late summer doesn’t always come to mind as planting time. But Late July and early August are great times to plant vegetables that grow quickly and mature better in cooler temperatures. Read on to discover which plants you can plant now that will grow successfully well into fall. Tori Clark, Master Gardener Late summer doesn’t always come to mind as planting time. Some crops like lettuce and spinach can be bitter and hard to grow in the heat of the summer. Late July and early August are great times to plant vegetables that grow quickly and mature better in cooler temperatures. After harvesting veggies like lettuces, radishes, peas and spinach you can easily grow more if you have the inclination for more fresh, garden-grown produce into fall. Before replanting an area remove any remaining plants and allow the area to rest for a couple of weeks. Roots and debris from some plants can cause seeds to not germinate so it is best to wait. Next, remove any weeds, loosen the soil, and add a balanced fertilizer or some compost to replace the nutrients the earlier crop used. Some plants like peas, salad greens, spinach, and herbs such as cilantro and basil grow in as few as 30-50 days and have plenty of time to grow before the first frost. Other vegetables like kale are frost tolerant and continue to grow well into October while being tender and sweet. Whatever you decide to try growing as a late crop be sure to check the seed packages for the number of days to maturity to ensure plants have enough time to grow. The University of Minnesota Extension also has a handy planting chart that shows the types of vegetables best suited to late planting. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1)

< Back Spring Garden Prep - Fun Garden Markers January flew by and now we look forward to preparing for our Spring Garden whether vegetable, flower or perennial. As you begin planning for what you will plant in your gardens this Spring or start seeds inside, don’t forget this important element of a successful garden - Garden Markers! Garden Markers do not only serve a purpose in your garden but also let your kids or grandkids be involved as well. Don’t wonder again what is planted in that row or hill. Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener January flew by and now we look forward to preparing for our Spring Garden whether vegetable, flower or perennial. As you begin planning for what you will plant in your gardens this Spring or start seeds inside, don’t forget this important element of a successful garden - Garden Markers! Garden Markers do not only serve a purpose in your garden but also let your kids or grandkids be involved as well. How many times have you looked into your garden and wondered what was planted in this row or that hill? No need to wonder - take time this Winter to prepare simple, but colorful Garden Markers out of simple items you have at home. Garden Markers can be made from rocks, acrylic glue and a coat of varnish, which will allow them to last through the growing season and sustain natures elements like the sun and rain. Follow the steps below to create simple, but colorful Garden Stone Markers which can be used in a vegetable, flower or perennial garden this Spring. Follow the Steps Below: Create a list of the items you will plant this Spring in your garden which will require a marker. Collect small to medium sized rocks (river rocks work best). Rocks can also be purchased at a local craft store or nursery. (For Perennial Gardens you may want to use larger rocks.) Use Acrylic Paints/Brushes or Paint Pens to decorate the rocks and write on the rock the name of the plant (cover all surfaces) Creative ideas - the entire rock can be painted and then the name written; designs can be painted on the rock with the name or simply the name can be written in a creative way Once the Rocks have dried, coat the rocks with a basic clear varnish (the varnish will protect the design/name from the elements) Let all rocks dry and place in a spot inside until needed in the Spring. Photo credits: flickr.com (1,2,3)

< Back Planning for a Sunny Garden for all Types of Conditions If you are looking to start growing flowering plants or vegetables in a sunny area of your garden, read Margie Blare’s articles on starting a new garden. Then, take a look at this article which provides lots of ideas for plants in various kinds of sunny gardens. There are a seemingly endless number of plants that will flourish in a sunny garden. This article helps you narrow the choices down to some super stars. Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener The twin cities area of Minnesota, now classified as USDA Hardiness Zone 5a, offers a unique opportunity for gardeners to create vibrant and thriving sunny gardens, whether you have a large space, small space, container gardens or a balcony garden. With at least 6-8 hours of full sun daily, you can cultivate a diverse array of flowers, vegetables, herbs, and small shrubs that not only add beauty but also provide ecological benefits. The shift from Zone 4b to 5a indicates milder winters, allowing for a broader range of plants to flourish in the region. To ensure your sunny garden remains healthy and vibrant, remember to provide adequate water and fertilization. Most plants require about an inch of water weekly, and using slow-release fertilizers can enhance growth without overfeeding. Mulching around plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, while row covers can protect against early frosts and pests. By selecting the right plants and following these care tips, you can create a thriving sunny garden in the Twin Cities that brings joy and beauty throughout the growing season. This article will suggest sun-loving perennials listed in different categories. You may want to look for those plants that appear in several categories as superstars. Perennials for Sunny Gardens Natives Native plants are an excellent choice for sunny Minnesota gardens, offering both beauty and ecological benefits. Here just a few of the many native plants that thrive in a sunny Minnesota garden: Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a showstopper, attracting pollinators with its bold purple petals. Wild Bergamot ( Monarda fistulosa), which produces lavender flowers beloved by bees and butterflies. Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta): for those seeking a touch of golden sunshine, offer long-lasting blooms and support local wildlife consider planting or Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is drought-tolerant and supports pollinators. Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop) : This plant offers blue, tubular flowers from mid-June to September. It is deer resistant and prefers well-drained soil. Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed) : Known for its bright orange or yellow flowers, this plant is a vital food source for monarch caterpillars. It grows well in loose soil and full sun. Wild Bergamot Grasses To add structure and year-round interest to your sunny garden, consider incorporating native grasses. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a stunning choice, with its bluish-green leaves turning a captivating reddish-brown in fall. For taller options, Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) and Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) are excellent choices, providing vertical interest and winter habitat for birds. These grasses not only thrive in full sun but also require minimal maintenance, making them perfect for busy gardeners. Little Bluestem Unique Pollinators Here are some unique plants that thrive in full sun in our area. These flowers not only add beauty to your garden but also provide ecological benefits by attracting pollinators and supporting local wildlife: Geum (ex., Red Dragon ): This perennial features low-mounding leaves with numerous small flowers that bloom from early to late summer. It is a great choice for adding vibrant color to your garden. Nepeta (ex., Purrsian Blue) : Known for its compact mounding habit and periwinkle blue flowers, this plant is deer and rabbit resistant. It blooms from May to September and attracts bees and butterflies. Liatris spicata (Blazing Star/Gay Feather) : This plant features purple, spike-like clusters that bloom in full sun conditions. It is deer resistant and thrives in rich, loamy soil. Low Maintenance Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) : one member of the Rudbeckia family, these plants are drought-resistant and deer-resistant, with bright yellow flowers that attract butterflies and birds. They require minimal care and can grow in well-drained soil. Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea) : these natives are drought-tolerant once established and attract a variety of pollinators. They bloom from mid-summer to early fall and require minimal maintenance. Sedum : This succulent comes in various forms and is highly drought-tolerant. It blooms in late summer and is excellent for low-maintenance gardens. Yarrow : With its flat clusters of flowers, yarrow attracts bees and butterflies. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) : in addition to its other attributes, Butterfly Weed is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed Compact Flowering Plants These plants are ideal for adding color and vibrancy to small full sun gardens without overwhelming the space: Sedum Sunsparkler Series : These sedums are low-mounding, growing only 6-8 inches tall and 10-12 inches wide. They offer beautiful foliage and bright flowerheads, making them perfect for small gardens. Nepeta Purrsian Blue : This compact mounding plant produces periwinkle blue flowers from May to September. Yellow Alyssum : Known as basket-of-gold, this low-growing perennial forms a mat and blooms with bright yellow flowers in the spring. It grows 6-12 inches tall with an 18-inch spread. Yarrow : While not as compact as some others, yarrow can be pruned to maintain a smaller size. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Geum Red Dragon : this colorful blooming plant is easy to grow. Deer-resistant Plants Yarrow (Achillea) : Known for its finely textured foliage with an herbal scent that repels deer, yarrow blooms in yellow, pink, white, or peach. It is hardy in zones 3-8 and prefers full sun. Ornamental Onion (Allium) : Deer avoid this plant due to its onion flavor. Varieties like 'Serendipity' offer playful purple flowers that bloom from mid to late summer. It thrives in zones 4-8 and full sun to part sun. Anise Hyssop (Agastache) : This plant's fragrant leaves and soft peach flowers make it unappealing to deer. Catmint (Nepeta) : Deer dislike this fuzzy, fragrant foliage of catmint. It blooms with bright lavender-purple flowers starting in early summer and thrives in zones 3-8 with full sun. Coneflower (Echinacea) : While not completely deer-proof, coneflowers are often left alone due to their spiny cones. They bloom most of the summer with full to part sun. Russian Sage (Perovskia) : Its clean, herbal scent makes it highly deer-resistant. It blooms with bright amethyst-blue flowers and thrives in full sun. Deer-resistant Groundcovers Creeping Phlox : This groundcover blooms with vibrant purple flowers in early spring and prefers well-drained soil in full sun. It is relatively deer-resistant due to its dense growth and less palatable foliage. Sedum : Known for its succulent leaves and stems, sedum is highly drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. It comes in various forms and colors, making it suitable for rock gardens and full sun conditions. Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pennsylvanica) : While not entirely deer-proof, this sedge is less appealing to deer due to its grass-like foliage. It thrives in full sun to part shade and is native to Minnesota. Thyme : Some varieties of thyme, like creeping thyme, can be used as a groundcover and are deer-resistant. They prefer well-drained soil and full sun. Creeping Phlox These groundcovers are not only deer-resistant but also low-maintenance, making them ideal for sunny areas. However, it's important to note that while these plants are less appealing to deer, they may still be nibbled on if other food sources are scarce. Vegetables and Herbs for Sunny Gardens Vegetable gardens in the twin cities can flourish with a variety of crops. Most vegetable and herbs need a lot of sun. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants should be started indoors and transplanted after the last frost, while lettuce, spinach, beets, carrots, and peas can be directly sown into the garden in early spring. For herbs, basil, chives, dill, and mint are popular choices that thrive in sunny conditions and require minimal care. Lavender , though typically hardy in Zone 5, can also survive in Zone 4 with proper protection, adding a fragrant and beautiful element to your garden. Compact vegetables that thrive in container gardens and smaller gardens Cherry Tomatoes : These are ideal for container gardens due to their compact size and high yield. They require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Peppers : Both bell and hot peppers grow well in containers. They are relatively compact and produce a high yield. Leaf Lettuce and Spinach : These can thrive in partial shade but also do well in full sun containers. They are easy to grow and can be harvested continuously. Radishes : Quick-growing and compact, radishes can be grown in shallow containers and require minimal space. Happy Sunny Gardening https://www.fox9.com/news/minnesotas-plant-hardiness-zones-have-changed https://www.mprnews.org/story/2023/11/21/milder-winters-changing-usda-plant-hardiness-zones-in-minnesota https://www.coppercreeklandscapes.com/new-blog/hardy-summer-perennials-minnesota https://www.leafgreengardens.com/minnesota-gardening-zones-by-usda/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-herbs https://mnhardy.umn.edu/shrubs https://sargentsgardens.com/top-10-sun-perennials/ https://www.gurneys.com/collections/vegetables-zone5 https://www.motherearthgardener.com/organic-gardening/herb-gardens-in-the-north-ze0z1810zcoo/ https://www.epicgardening.com/minnesota-perennials/ https://www.bachmans.com/information/usda-zone-map https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/17xkzir/2023_usda_plant_hardiness_map_of_minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/trees-and-shrubs-minnesota-landscapes https://bonnieplants.com/blogs/garden-ideas-inspiration/full-sun-garden-plants https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/hardy-herbs https://almanacplanting.com/collections/shrubs-and-bushes-zone-5 https://www.myhomepark.com/blog/12-minnesota-native-plants-for-your-home-landscapes https://ponicslife.com/minnesota-vegetable-planting-calendar-a-quick-and-easy-guide/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade https://tristarplants.com/collections/shrubs-for-zone-5 https://northerngardener.org/5-perennials-that-act-like-shrubs/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/planting-vegetable-garden https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/1bc3q70/what_perennial_herbs_do_people_have/ Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,4), open.lib.umn.edu (2), marylandbiodiversity.com (3)

< Back Protecting Our Trees from Invasive Species Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” This article defines and identifies the invasive species that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources defines an invasive species as “species that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health.” We’re looking at a two part definition. In the first part we see that these species are not native to Minnesota. We often use such terms as exotic, alien, introduced, etc. There is an implication that all invasive species come from outside the United States. This is not always the case. These new pests simply come from outside Minnesota. In the second part of our definition the key word is harm. We are concerned with those pathogens, plants, animals or insects that can cause harm to the economy, environment, or human health. Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) The number one new pest facing our trees in Dakota County is the emerald ash borer (EAB) . The nearest confirmed sighting is in the area of Fort Snelling in Hennepin County and Highland Park in Ramsey County. The general rule that the insect can travel by itself somewhere between 13-15 miles in a given year implies that within a short period of time we will have confirmed sightings within Dakota County. Do you know the symptoms to look for? The first thing to look for is increased woodpecker activity. These birds know a tasty treat when they find one. This increased activity normally happens in the second year after EAB infestation and is followed by vertical splits in the bark and sometimes defoliation in the tree canopy. A closer inspection could then reveal the large s-shaped galleries under the bark and the D-shaped exit holes. These symptoms generally confirm that the tree has been infected. Gypsy Moth The second pest that we all need to be aware of is the gypsy moth . It attacks several varieties of trees but here in Minnesota aspens and oak seem to be the favorite. The gypsy moth caterpillars are capable of defoliating acres of trees. It has arrived in Minnesota! Not necessarily here in Dakota County, but it has invaded out state. Lake and Cook counties in the Arrowhead region have reached the point where they will be experiencing the first steps in a quarantine . How will it affect us? Most of us will not be directly affected. But if we have property in these counties or intend to vacation there we will feel the impact. Thousand Canker Disease Thousand Canker Disease is a third new pest that affects black walnuts. It is a fungus carried by the walnut twig beetle. When it enters the bark it leaves behind a fungus that causes a canker. If you have any black walnut trees you need to be concerned and be able to recognize it. For the rest of us you do need to know that it is now the law that black walnut wood of any size or shape cannot be imported into Minnesota. A quarantine is in effect that makes this illegal. Asian Longhorn Beetle The fourth pest emerging in Minnesota is the Asian Longhorn Beetle . While poplars, maples and box elders seem to be the preferred trees in Minnesota it also feeds on several other varieties which makes it especially dangerous. Signs and symptoms include crown die-back, shallow depressions in the bark where the eggs are laid, sap seeping from these egg niches, pencil-size round exit holes and a sawdust on the top of branches or on the ground surrounding the tree. Brown Marmorated Stink Bug Two new and emerging pests do not actually kill the tree but both will damage the fruit the tree produces. The first is the Brown Marmorated Stink Bug . It has been found in several Minnesota counties and is considered a pest because it feed on fruit and vegetables. The insect is also considered a nuisance as it invades houses and other buildings in the fall seeking warmth. When disturbed, it emits a foul odor. Spotted Wing Drosophila Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD) is also a new and emerging pest and has been found in 20 counties in Minnesota. It is similar to a fruit fly. But unlike the typical fruit fly that feeds on damaged fruit, SWD feeds on intact, healthy, ripening fruit, especially thin-skinned berries. The female can pierce the soft skin and lay its eggs. In doing so there is also a possibility of an introduction of rot and fungus. So far in Minnesota the favorite has been raspberries. It has been known to attack apples and other tree bearing fruits. Oriental Bittersweet In our training one invasive plant was discussed. Oriental Bittersweet has been found in Dakota County in Burnsville and Eagan. It is a vine that can grow over 60 feet long and will girdle and smother trees and shrubs. It is spread by rhizomes and seeds, mainly through birds ingesting and then eliminating the seeds. Through this natural action, entire plant communities have been known to be overwhelmed. iI becomes our job to eradicate it. What Can I Do? We still need to answer one important question. What should be done if you suspect you have found one of these tree pests? There is an “Arrest the Pest” hotline you can email at arrest.the.pest@state.mn.us or by phone at 888-545-6684. Doing so could help us protect our native trees.