< Back A Versatile Understory Tree: Eastern Redbud Jim Lakin introduces us to another stunning, not-too-big tree native to Minnesota – the Eastern Redbud. This lovely specimen welcomes spring with rosy-pink pea like flowers and ends the growing season with large, heart shaped yellow leaves. It would make a lovely addition to your garden. Read on to learn more. Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Last month we talked about one lovely understory (i.e. not too big) tree, the Serviceberry. Another stunner that you might consider is the Eastern Redbud. Eastern Redbud ( Cercis canadensis ) is a small, graceful tree native to the eastern and central United States. It is one of the first natives to bloom in the spring when it presents a stunning display of rosy-pink pea like flowers that bloom close to the branches and even on the trunk. The result is a spectacular springtime show. The leaves that follow are large and heart shaped, assuming a clear yellow color in the fall. As Cercis canadensis is a member of the pea family its fruits are brown to black pods, typical of the Fabaceae or legume family. If you are considering a Redbud, you should plan on planting in the spring, probably in mid to late May here in Minnesota. It grows best in full to part sunlight in a moist well-drained soil. It is pretty tolerant of both acid and alkaline soils and is hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 9. The Eastern Redbud can grow to 20 to 30 feet tall with about a 25-foot spread. It has a tendency to form multiple trunks, so if you are going for a single one, some pruning will be necessary. In planning your placement, redbud makes a great specimen, patio or lawn tree. If you plant daffodils or tulips around it, they will bloom at approximately the same time and put on a really impressive show. In case you’re thinking Eastern Redbud is too good to be true, it isn’t. It’s a relatively short-lived tree, about 20 years. It is also susceptible to several pests including leaf spot and verticillium wilt. The latter can be controlled with deep-root watering, careful pruning and fertilization. Deer and rabbits love redbud as much as we do, so it is best to apply plastic trunk guards for the first two to three years until established. On the plus side they do attract hummingbirds and a number of butterflies as would be expected from a native perennial. Caring for your Eastern Redbud should include regular watering, about once a week to 2 to 3 inches especially in the first two years. A good thick mulch helps, but keep the mulch about 1 to 2 inches away from the trunk. Fertilization requirements are usually light. A soil test can help to determine if there are any deficiencies. As we said redbuds do well in full sun to part shade. However, you should avoid placing the tree in a real scorcher of a location as they do better with a bit of shade in excessively hot environments. Thus, with a little bit of care your Eastern Redbud will become established and richly reward you each spring. Photo Credit: Penn State Extension (1), www.messersmith.name (All Creative Commons) (2)

< Back Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Springtime Coquette James Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener The Eastern Red Columbine is an erect, branching perennial, up to 2 ft. tall, and is well known for its showy red and yellow flowers. Here are some reasons why they may be a great addition to your landscape. Columbine or Columbina was an enduring character of Italian commedia del’arte, coquettish, heavily made up, outspoken with almost always something to say. Her botanical namesake, the columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) is also an outspoken herald of spring, brightly made up, making a statement in the garden or the wild. The eastern red columbine is native to the entire Midwest. You will find this beauty in rock outcrops, rocky or sandy woodlands as well as savannas. To successfully grow columbine in the garden it is very helpful to provide extra drainage. Usually a rock, gravel or sand underlayment will do the trick although for years my columbines have spread and reseeded in my raised beds with no other preparations. They also look well in rock gardens or other stone or concrete works. Columbines can be a good choice for container gardens as well. It is important to allow for reseeding as individual columbines seldom live more than three years. They do best in full sun although they tolerate light to moderate shade well. Plant height varies from one to four feet, the taller plants often putting on a magnificent display of very showy ruby red flowers. Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis). A somewhat darker bloom Pollination of Columbine is primarily carried out by the ruby-throated hummingbird although an occasional swallowtail butterfly may pitch in. Aquilegia canadensis flowers in the late spring over several weeks. It then produces a fruiting capsule by midsummer which disperses small black seeds before it disintegrates. The compound leaves of the basal portion of the fruiting body remain into the fall, acting as a host for leaf mining moth larvae. You can see the results of the larvae’s feeding as scrolling markings appear on the leaves. As you might anticipate, any plant as showy as the columbine would fall into the hands of the breeder to produce even showier cultivars. A number of very attractive varieties are on the market. Two of my favorites are “Swan Mix” and “Origami Mix”. These are by no means native to anywhere and their value to pollinators is suspect. But as long as you make sure to plant plenty of the native species, I think you can admire the beauty of the cultivars with a clean conscience! Columbine “Swan Mix”, an engaging cultivar Columbine “Origami Mix”, another showy cultivar Photo Credit: Jim Lakin (1,2,3,4)

< Back For Healthy Plants, Understand Your Soil First As you start to prepare your garden for spring planting, attending to the quality of your soil is one of the first things on the list. Testing and possibly amending your soil may not be as fun as planting, but these steps are crucial to the health of your plants. This article explains how to understand your soil and how to make it a beneficial host for your vegetables, shrubs, trees or flowers Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener It all starts in the ground! Soil – or ‘dirt’ – is a critical component of gardening, along with water and sunlight. Soil is often the cause of plant problems and for this reason, it is important to understand what kind of soil you have. While this could become quite technical, there are some basic concepts that will help you understand what kind of soil you have and what actions you could take to improve it. As Dr. Anne Sawyer, from the University of Minnesota Department of Soil, Water, and Climate says, “healthy soils, healthy plants”. Dr. Sawyer explains that the soil is alive, full of microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and other organisms that support plant growth. In an ideal planting situation, the soil would be loamy. This means water moves through the dirt, it has a good mix of nutrients, and provide plants with the ability to grow their roots out with ease. Loamy soil looks black and crumbly and if you squeeze it gently, forms a ball or log. Clay soil is the least ideal type of medium for growing plants. If you squeeze it, it will form a solid ball. Clay soil does not allow water to filter through the soil particles, often creating puddles or little ponds. It is very compact. Plants struggle to grow their roots and often look stunted and unhealthy. Fruit and vegetables are unlikely to produce a good harvest. Sandy soil, like loamy soil, filters water but it filters water quite quickly, making it difficult to maintain a good moist soil. If you try to squeeze sandy soil, you will not be able to form any kind of structure. Plants grown in sandy soil require frequent watering and may sometimes look a little wilted. To further test your soil, you can do an infiltration test , which can be done with a soup can! This is a simple way to see how well water is draining and how long it takes your soil to absorb water. When possible, it is best to perform this test when the soil is dry so you can get a more accurate test. This infiltration test site provides step by step instructions. The good news is that you can amend most soils. That means you can improve your soil by adding organic matter. This can help to improve the soil’s water filtration (permeability) and aeration (air flow, oxygenation), which helps it to become similar to that ideal loamy soil. Soil amendments can also bring in nutrients that plants need to grow and thrive. For sandy soil , you would introduce materials that will give it more structure and help hold in the water or slow its movement. The amendments may include compost, peat moss, or decomposed/composted manure (never use ‘fresh’ manure – it can burn plants). For clay soil , you want to try to break up the solid mass. You would also thoroughly mix in compost and peat moss or other organic materials. However, to be frank, clay soil can be daunting to amend. Many people find they are not able to improve the soil sufficiently to create a better growing environment. Often the best solution for those with clay soil is installing raised beds and filling them with good garden soil. This article is not going to delve into several other important factors present in soils but you should know that plant problems may also be caused by several other soil-related factors. For example, knowing the ph of your soil (is it acidic or basic) can significantly impact plants. For this reason, it is usually recommended that you test your soil. Other articles in the Garden Buzz have talked about soil testing. You also can go right to the University of Minnesota website to learn more about soil testing and get instructions on how to take a soil sample and where to send it for testing. As you start to prepare your garden for spring planting, attending to the quality of your soil is one of the first things on the list. Not only will your plants be happier, so will you! Resources: Healthy Soil, Healthy Plants Managing soil and nutrients in yards and gardens Soil Testing What’s My Soil Type? Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), www.flickr.com (3), Pngimg.com (4)

< Back Vegetables of Asian Origin That Thrive in Minnesota Community gardeners are increasingly interested in expanding their growing practices to include crops that originated in cultures other than their own. As Minnesotans, we have some options for growing vegetables that can be used in global cuisines and also promote sustainability. This article highlights three vegetables that originated in Asia, but with the right conditions and care, can also be grown in Minnesota. Logan Caola, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern The vegetables featured here originated in East Asia, a region that includes parts of Korea, China, and Japan. These vegetables have long been staple crops in traditional gardening environments and can adapt well to Minnesota's climate. With seasonal timing planned and soil conditions prepared in advance, we can grow these vegetables successfully. Growing them offers Minnesota gardeners an opportunity to honor global food heritage while diversifying our gardens and diets. Bok Choy (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis) These leafy plants have been cultivated in China for thousands of years and are foundational to East Asian cuisines. Bok choy grows in an upright clump of dark green leaves, with very thick green or white stalks.1 They are versatile in the kitchen; commonly used in stir fries, soups and fermented preparations like kimchi. They can also be used as fillings for dishes such as egg rolls and dumplings. A great ingredient for homemade sauerkraut,2 Bok choy is packed with calcium and vitamins A and C, making it a nutrient-rich addition to the garden. Growing Considerations : As a cool-season vegetable, this plant is well-suited to Minnesota’s spring and fall growing seasons. Seeds can be started indoors or direct-sown in early spring. A second planting in late summer often performs better due to fewer pest issues but plant no later than late July. Soil & Care : They prefer fertile moist soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. They can benefit from row covers that can protect against common pests. Harvesting : Bok choy matures in 30 to 45 days. You can harvest Bok Choy a few leaves at a time instead of waiting for the full head to develop. Bok Choy Japanese Cucumber (Cucumis sativus var. japonicus) This Japanese-originating cucumber is great for both pickling and eating fresh. While this is a warm weather crop, its growing conditions are not too dissimilar from common variety cucumbers! In Japan, these cucumbers are often thinly sliced and served with vinegar, sesame, or miso-based dressings. Planting Tips : Start seeds indoors in late April or sow directly outdoors in late May, after all danger of frost has passed.3, 4 Growing Conditions : Growing with a trellis is optimal as this provides support for vertical growth and encourages airflow. Make sure to water regularly to avoid bitter fruit! Harvest : Pick when 8 to 10 inches long for best flavor and texture. Frequent harvesting over the growing season will encourage continual production. Japanese Cucumber Shishito Pepper (Capsicum annuum) The shishito pepper is a wrinkly small pepper from Japan known for its subtle flavor. These peppers are commonly blistered in oil and sprinkled with sea salt, which brings out their sweet grassy flavor. Its ‘easy to cook’ nature and taste have made it a popular snack food throughout the U.S.! Gardening instructions for more familiar peppers can be followed for this variety as well!5 Starting Indoors : Like most peppers, shishito should be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost and transplanted outdoors once night time temperatures stay consistently above 55°F.6 Soil & Sunlight : Requires full sun and well-draining soil. Make sure to utilize a balanced fertilizer (if necessary) to ensure continual fruit production during the growing season. Harvest Time : Pick when the peppers are about 3 to 4 inches long and still green. They can be harvested throughout the season. Shishito Pepper These Asian originating vegetables demonstrate that with just a little planning and care, we can grow our gardens to help expand our diets and try new things. Incorporating one or any of these options into your growing space not only broadens your culinary possibilities, but also introduces you to agricultural traditions that have been around for centuries, from all over the globe. While these crops are not indigenous to Minnesota, they perform well in our short growing seasons. Look for heirloom or traditional varieties from seed catalogs specializing in global crops, such as Kitazawa Seed Company , Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds , or Seed Savers Exchange . Remember: As gardeners, we don’t have to go very far to explore the world. References : https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-chinese-cabbage-and-bok-choy#harvest-and-storage-790562 https://extension.umn.edu/preserving-and-preparing/how-make-your-own-sauerkraut https://greg.app/when-to-plant-japanese-cucumber/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-cucumbers#insects-3252210 https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-peppers#disorders-3281462 https://www.gardenary.com/blog/how-to-grow-shishito-peppers Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1), www.flickr.com (2,3)

< Back Give Your Orchid a Vacation Paul Wood, Dakota County Master Gardener Orchids are like school children. They have been cooped up in your house all winter. They have treated you well, stayed healthy, and maybe even treated you to blooms; for that they deserve something special: a vacation! It is easy; you don’t need a travel agent, an airline reservation or even a hotel room: just set them outside. Read this article by avid orchid grower, Paul Wood, to learn how to safely grow your orchids outside in the summer. The orchids in your house are not native to Minnesota so being outside is like a foreign country to them; they need some orientation and acclimation to feel comfortable and really enjoy their vacation. Prime Vacation Time Orchids like to take their vacations most any time after our night-time temperatures stay above 50 degrees. They can stay on vacation until the temperatures start dipping below 50 at night. Accommodations For the most part, when you put your orchids outside, they should be in dappled light. Putting an orchid that has been inside all winter into direct sunlight will burn its leaves. This is particularly true if you have Phalaenopsis (Phal) because they grow in the lower story of the forests so they don’t get a lot of light even in nature. The dappled light comes in many forms. My orchids spend the summer on the back deck in the shade of a birch tree and do quite well. There are pot clips you can buy for ceramic pots that allow you to hang the orchids right in the tree. If you don’t have a shady spot, you can use shade cloth to protect your orchids. The level of shade depends on the orchid, but for Phals it is 70-80%. You can build a supporting structure for the cloth, but if you have a pergola you are ready to go. Some orchids like Cattleyas, Dendrobiums or Oncidiums prefer more light than a Phal, but that doesn’t mean direct sun light. Bright diffused light is called for. Be sure to harden them off before leaving them in the brighter light. Spa Treatments Orchids, like any other plant, are subject to pests and disease. While your orchids are outside, it is a great time to give them “spa treatments” to keep them healthy. You won’t find orchid specific pesticides, but any pesticide that can be used on tropical plants will be OK for your orchids. Systemic pesticides are best for sucking pests. Safari ®, Malathion ® or Imidacloprid work extremely well. Mix them with water and soak the roots. Both Safari and the chemical Imidacloprid are neonicotinoids, but there are no pollinators visiting your orchids so from that perspective they are safe to use. Horticultural oil can be used for scale as well. Fungicides are best applied when the orchids enter the spa. The copper-based fungicides or a fungicide with chlorothalonil as the active ingredient work well. Remember that fungicides are preventative, not curative, so prevention is key. There are more natural solutions to pest control than what I noted above. These are best used when the orchids return from vacation. Libation Station What is a vacation without some libation! When your orchids are outside you need to continue to water and fertilize them, but you also need to consider the weather conditions. If it has been hot and dry, they might need to be watered more than once a week, particularly if they are in a small pot. Conversely, if it has been hot and humid or very rainy, you might want to hold back on the watering. Under hot conditions, they enjoy a misting to cool their leaves. Orchids prefer their libations straight up, they don’t like mixes such as chlorine or pH increasers (e.g. city water). Watering from your rain barrel or using RO water will go a long way towards keep your orchids healthy. In summary, don’t be afraid to move your orchids outside in the summer; just be sure to keep them shaded and out of direct sun. While on vacation they still need to be watered and fertilized, just be cognizant of the local weather conditions. While they are outside, use this time to treat them with pesticides to keep them healthy and pest free. Treating them also lessens the chance of bringing pests indoors when the vacation time must come to an end and they return to their job of being a flowering indoor plant for your enjoyment. !!!!!! WARNNG- Orchids can become addicting!!!!! References: How To Care For Orchids Outdoors - Everyday Orchids Heat Stress ( aos.org ) Outdoor Orchid Care - American Orchid Society ( aos.org ) Photo credits: www.justaddiceorchids.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Paul Wood (2,3)

< Back Planting Seeds with Children Kristen Beardsley Schoenherr and Mary Gadek, Master Gardeners Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Kids love to plant seeds, and it’s a great way to show them the joys of gardening. Now’s the time to get seeds started for indoor and outdoor growing. Explore these educational resources for you and your family. WATCH, READ and DO! WATCH this how-to video ! Read The Tiny Seed by Eric Carle (Ages 3-8 ) A simple description of a flowering plant's life cycle through the seasons. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online Plant a Little Seed by Bonnie Christensen (Ages 4-7): Children plant a seed, care for their flowers and vegetables during the growing season, and enjoy the harvest. Check it out at Dakota County Library or Buy online DO activities for different age groups This month we have two suggested project for you to try with your children: 1. Seed Starting with Young Children MATERIALS Child sized apron (optional) Mat/waterproof cloth to work on (optional) Seed starting soil in an airtight container Child sized trowel or spoon Plant pots (cam reuse old yogurt or egg containers, clear container to see roots, something decorated, etc.) Seeds displayed based on the age and abilities of your child, with or without seed packets and plant labels (for a young toddler maybe put out many types of seeds so they can see the variety, for an older toddler maybe put out one type of seed with the seed packet and labels, and older child can write their own labels and can be given more seed choices. Little pitcher/watering can/spray bottle Cloth for cleanup A warm lit place to put planted pots Tray to help carry materials, materials should be arranged from left to right in order of use Place to work, can be a little table, counter with a stool for child, kitchen table, or the floor. PRESENTATION OF ACTIVITY Invite child when they are well rested and feeling good. Show them where the materials are located and invite them to help carry the materials to where you will work. (If you are right-handed, sit to your child’s right, opposite for left handed. This will allow the child to see what your hands are doing.) Name each material as you take it off the tray (this is a great embedded language/vocabulary opportunity) Say, “I will plant one seed and then you can have a turn.” “Watch.” (This draws their attention to your hands.) Open container with soil, show the child how to carefully scoop the soil and place it in the pot. Close the container. Introduce seeds. “I’m going make a little hole for the seed.” Show how to make a little hole, put a seed in the hole and cover it with soil. “We only need one seed.” (they may plant more, and that’s okay) If you are using labels, show how to label the plant or how the child can create their own label. “Now we need to get some water.” Get water in the pitcher or watering can and pour on soil or show how to squirt spray bottle. Show child where they can put their planted seed. Clean up any spills as you go. “I see there is a little spill, I will clean it up.” “Now you can plant as many seeds as you like, when you are finished, I’ll help you clean up.” Offering multiple pots helps to encourage repetition. Empty pots can be kept in a different spot, instead of on the tray if that is easier. THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PRESENTING Young children are creatures of process not product. They benefit from simply doing the activity or even a part of the activity as opposed to the finished product. These seeds may or may not grow into great seedlings that can be transplanted into the garden, and that is okay. Limit language and distractions during the presentation and while the child is working. If you want to point out something additional or add more language or sensorial opportunities, try these at a different time. When you show your child how to plant seeds for the first time ever or the season you want them to focus on the activity and your hands so that they can be most successful. SENSORIAL OPPORTUNITIES AND EXTENSIONS It can be fascinating for young children to shake the seed packets and hear the noise that different seeds make. They can notice how the sound changes with seed shape. Collect a variety of seed packets for your child to shake. Make sure to pick some large seeds, such as peas or squash, and some small seeds such as lettuce or carrots, so that the child can hear the different sounds while shaking the packets. This activity will help the child develop their fine motor skills while learning about music and sounds! Children might love feeling the soil and become entranced with using their hands. Others may hate the feel of the soil and don’t want to touch it. When you offer the child to have a turn, it is a great opportunity to sit back and observe how your child proceeds. They do not have to repeat exactly how you modeled. LANGUAGE EXTENSIONS At a different time, invite your child to observe different kinds of seeds with you, notice and discuss similarities and differences. On a plate or tray lay out small piles of various seeds. Ask the toddler to describe the seeds. Questions you could ask: Is the seed round or flat? What color is the seed? Which seed is the largest? Which seed is the smallest? Which seeds look similar to another kind of seed? Let the child pick up the seeds to explore them. This activity will help the child develop their descriptive vocabulary and fine motor skills while learning about various seeds.Three period language lesson: Choose three types of seeds that are quite different. Tell the child the name of each seed, “This is a sunflower seed, this is a bean seed, and this is a pumpkin seed.” Ask the child fun questions to reinforce names of each seed. “Where is the pumpkin seed? Put the pumpkin seed next to the bean seed. Give the sunflower seed to your brother.” Test knowledge by asking, “Which seed is this? Which seed is this?” If your child answers incorrectly no need to correct them, simply say which it is, “That’s the bean seed.” This can be done in a group or with an individual child. MODIFICATIONS This activity is very easy to modify. Seeds and planting containers can be switched regularly to meet your family’s gardening needs and preferences.This activity is intended for one child to do at a time (young children love working alone and can concentrate best when alone), but we easily used the same materials and a similar process to include our child in our family’s group seed planting. If you have multiple children, you may need multiple trowels so they each could fill pots at the same time. Or one child could fill a pot, one plant a seed, and an older child could write a label. 2. GRASS HEAD PROJECT - WATCHING GRASS GROW CAN BE FUN! PURPOSE Introduction to plant biology to observe seeds transforming into a plant and to learn how to take care of a plant. EQUIPMENT Clear container with wide opening and its cap (plastic cup or item recycled from your household) Items to create a face on the container (permanent markers, puffy paint, colorful seeds, pipe cleaners, goggly eyes, stickers, etc.) Potting soil Fast growing seeds, like grass seed-bag of lawn patch kit or cat grass Optional- glue; scissors INSTRUCTIONS Punch a hole in the bottom of the container for drainage.Decorate a clear container to make a face on one side.Fill container ¾ full of soil; sprinkle seeds on top of soil; top with additional soil. Put the container cap or a shallow dish under the container.Set the container near a light source. Water (daily) so soil doesn’t dry out; since the container is clear, you can see if the soil is adequately saturated (not too little or too much). Watch the seeds grow! LEARNING POSSIBILITIES Explain what a plant needs to grow: soil, light and water.Growth cycle: Notice how the seeds are changing under the soil and then how the plant grows above the soil. Activities:Measure and record growth in a written and/or photographic journal.Predict how long it will take for grass to grow to a certain height.Give the grass a haircut with scissors and watch regrowth happen.Repeat A and/or B.

< Back Choosing Iris in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Late spring and early summer bring Iris blooms in Minnesota! Strolling through the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, you will find many varieties of iris located in the Perennial Garden, and all around the Arb. In fact, the UMN Arboretum website arb.umn.edu lists 677 individual specimens currently on the website’s plant finder! You can plant iris in your own garden but which ones to choose? Read on for some considerations when choosing iris for your Minnesota garden. Several different types of iris can be grown in Dakota County and around Minnesota. Sun exposure and soil conditions are important considerations when choosing which type to plant. Of course, there are so many beautiful colors and forms to choose from for your garden design too! Blue Flag Iris ( iris versicolor ) is one of my favorite plants in my own garden - and is native to Minnesota. Blue Flag Iris can handle part shade to sun, and soils that are semi-moist to moist. This is a great option for the edges of rain gardens and marshes. ( minnesotawildflowers.info ) Blue Flag Iris Dutch Iris ( iris hollandica ) grow from bulbs, rather than rhizomes like other iris, and do best with full sun and well-drained soil. Most varieties are hardy in Zones 5-9, so they are grown as annuals in colder climates. I have had mixed results with this variety coming back in my Dakota County home garden, depending on the winter. They are a sweet bit of spring color. Dutch Iris Bearded Iris ( iris or iris germanica ) need full sun and well-drained, leaning to dry, soil. According to the Minnesota Historical Society, avoid over-watering once iris are established, and keep mulch away from the rhizomes in order to prevent disease and rot. It is quite a striking sight to see individual plants, or a mass of bearded iris standing tall (blooms on single stems can rise above 3 feet!) Bearded Iris Japanese Iris ( iris ensata ) are “beardless” and bloom after the Bearded iris, allowing the iris show to continue past July (Iris Society of Minnesota). They have larger, flatter, blooms and prefer more moisture in their soil than the Bearded iris (University of MN Extension). Japanese Iris Siberian Iris ( iris sibirica ) are also “beardless,” grown in part to full sun, and tolerate “a wide variety of soils, but will perform best when grown in moist fertile, organically rich, slightly acidic, well drained soils,” according to North Carolina Extension. Siberian Iris Other varieties of iris that can be grown in Minnesota and are listed on the Arboretum’s website, such as: Cattail iris (iris typhifolia), Orchid Iris (iris histroides), Dwarf crested iris (iris cristata), Sandy Iris (iris arenaria), Dalmation Iris (iris pallida), Roof Iris (iris tectorum), Spuria Iris (iris spuria), Blackberry lily (iris domestica) - are found in the perennial garden as well as the dedicated Iris Garden. You will also find an abundance of iris all around the arboretum. Something catch your attention? Use the Plant Finder tool at arb.umn.edu and find your way to a new favorite bloom if the time is right! Here’s an iris to watch out for and not in a good way: Yellow iris ( iris pseudacorus ). Yellow Iris is found in boggy areas and near waterways. It is a “regulated invasive species,” in Minnesota, meaning plants are “legal to buy, sell, transport and possess but may not be introduced into a free-living state, such as released into public waters (UMN Extension). Why worry about planting yellow iris? It competes with native shoreline vegetation and should be reported to the Minnesota Department of Resources if found. The Arb lists one occurrence of this species - on the Fern Walk. See you if you spot it next time you visit! Wherever you’ve found a place to add an iris (or a few) to your garden, there’s a right iris for you. Happy planting! Resources https://www.irismn.net/ minnesotawildflowers.info https://northerngardener.org/irises/ https://arb.umn.edu/ https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/iris-sibirica/ Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1), Gayle Bergevin (2,6), Sarah Heidtke (3,4,5,7)

< Back April is Here! No Worries - Quick Seed Germination Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener The first day of spring has come and gone, but it is still too early to plant seeds outside and maybe too late to start seeds inside? Or is it? Let’s try this quick germination activity with the little ones in your life to get a jumpstart on your flower or vegetable garden. The seeds are bought and we are all anxiously awaiting the gardening season. It is a great time to introduce the children in your life to see germination. The paper towel seed germination method helps to germinate more seeds in less space, pick the best seeds that have germinated and germinate seeds faster. What a simple way to not only see seeds germinate before your eyes, but to also take this process to the next level of transplanting the seedlings into a beautiful vegetable garden plant. Items Needed : Paper Towels (absorbent/thicker ones work the best) Seeds (for beginners try peppers, tomatoes, peas & zucchini) Clear plastic sandwich, pint or gallon bags Permanent Marker Tweezers & Pencil Water (Spray Bottle) Small indoor pots (plastic or biodegradable) to use for transplanting seedlings Potting Soil Let’s Get Started Paper Towel Prep : Wet the paper towels (number of towels will depend on how many seeds are started) Double the paper towels into a large square and wet paper towels by running under water either from faucet or from watering can Ring out paper towels so that they are damp, but not too wet. If the seeds get too wet, they will mold/rot and then will be unable to sprout. Time for Seed Germination Prep : Choose seeds and place on one half of the square paper towel. Once seeds are placed, fold over the other half of the paper towel so that the seeds are sandwiched between. It is recommended that the paper towels should be rolled if you are germinating tomato seeds. The paper towels with the seeds sandwiched between should then be placed in an appropriately sized plastic bag. The bag can be labeled with the type of seed that is inside. The bag can be left open slightly to help prevent mold from forming. Place the Seed Germination Bag in a warm and sunny spot in your home. Daily Monitoring : Daily monitor seeds for roots to appear as well as to monitor for watering needs. A white root will eventually emerge from the seed. Make sure that the paper towel does not dry out and if it begins to dry, mist with a spray bottle. Monitor for mold on the seeds and paper towels as well. Time to Transplant : When the root is an inch or two long it is time to transplant. Prepare small potting containers by placing potting soil inside. Place a hold for planting in the soil by using a pencil to make a hole. The roots are very fragile. Take a tweezer and gently pick-up the seeding by the seed coat. Place the seedling into the hole so that only the white part is beneath the soil. The seed coat and green stem should be above the soil line. Cover the hole gently with soil. Continue this process for each seed that has germinated or the number of seeds you choose to transplant. Before planting outside, wait until your seeds have true leaves and follow the process for acclimating the plants to being transplanted in your outdoor garden. Photo Credits : PxHere.com (1), Flickr.com (2,3), Pexels.com (4)

< Back Forcing Flower Bulbs Successfully Need a little color in your home this winter? After all the holiday décor is stored away, forcing flower bulbs indoors is a great way to enjoy flowers, both for their color and fragrance, during the cold winter months. Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Forcing bulbs indoors is quite easy and does not require expensive materials. You will first need to choose some bulbs. Flower bulbs that are easy to force are: Grape Hyacinths, Daffodils, Hyacinths and Paperwhites. These can be found at most garden stores or purchased through catalogs and online. Chilling Prechill bulbs, such as hyacinths and daffodils. To do so, place them in a paper bag and store in the refrigerator for at least 6 weeks. Paperwhites and amaryllis bulbs do not require a chilling period. Forcing bulbs in water One of the easiest ways to force bulbs is in water. Find a vase or jar that will hold your bulb or bulbs in an even layer. Fill the container with water to just touch the base of the bulb(s.) You will quickly see roots forming. Once you see them, keep the water level below the bulb to prevent rotting. Keep in a cool. Dark place until you see an inch or two of leaf growth. Move the bulbs to a bright spot but avoid direct sunlight. Rotate the vase from time to time to keep the plant growing straight. Add water when needed but keep it below the bottom of the bulb. Forcing bulbs on stones If using a larger vase, creating a base of stones can help keep your bulbs above the water level. Some “stone” options are pea gravel, river rock, glass chips and marbles. Set the bulbs on top of the stones then add a few stones around each bulb to anchor them and keep from tipping. Do not cover them. Add water to reach the base of the bulbs. Add water as it evaporates, keeping the level just below the bulb base. Tip for Paperwhites Get your Paperwhites tipsy! Paperwhites tend to get a little floppy, to prevent this, when leaves are 1 to 2 inches tall, pour out the plain water in your vase and replace with a 1:8 alcohol-to-water solution. Do not over do it, too much alcohol can kill the plants. You can use vodka, whiskey or rum. The use of this mixture stunts the plant’s growth, keeping it compact and sturdy. Keep adding until it is done flowering. Follow these tips to enjoy bringing a little early Spring to your home. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gail Maifeld (2)

< Back Rose Mallow - A Rose of the North Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Have a riverbank, marsh, or rain garden to manage? Consider adding the lovely, long-blooming Rose Mallow. This article will tell you why and how. Hibiscus lasiocarpos As Juliet observed of her beloved Romeo, “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” We may then ask, “Would that which we call a rose be less beautiful if it is not?” To this I would unhesitatingly say, “Yes in the case of the rose mallow”. H. lasiocarpos and H. moscheutos are nearly identical members of the mallow family (Malvaceae). They are native to most of the Lower Midwest and northward to areas around Lakes Michigan and Erie. Their closely related cousin, the somewhat more cold-tolerant Halberd-leaved rose mallow ( H. laevis ) is native to Southeast Minnesota and up the Missouri River Valley. The rose mallows are hardy through zones 4-9. These perennials are closely related to the much-prized tropical hibiscus. Halberd-leaved rose mallow As you might expect, this gorgeous plant has been hybridized into a large number of attractive cultivars available at your local nursery. The value of these cultivars to our pollinators remains to be determined. There is no question, however that the three native species are key players in the ecological web of the Northern Midwest. They are very nectar and pollen rich, being great additions to a pollinator garden. Halberd-leaved rose mallow The rose mallows are essentially a wetlands plant found around lakes and rivers. They may even be seen growing in standing water. They do well though in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. If they are in a bed, remember to water them during dry, mid-summer weather. They eventually grow to about five feet so you should keep that in mind if inserting them into a border garden. They do well as a backdrop to sun loving ground covers. Rose mallow is slow to emerge from dormancy but once in gear it is a rapid grower, putting on as much as an inch per day. The blooms are quite showy, appearing from July to September so you would do well to mix them with earlier blooming perennials such as Jacob’s Ladder or creeping phlox. The flowers are from three to five inches across with a red center “eye” from which the stamen protrudes. Flower petals may vary from white to shades of pink. Once established, application of a slow-release fertilizer in the spring can enhance growth. While you are at it, pruning back the old growth to about six inches will help to make way for the new foliage. Deadheading usually is not necessary. Rose mallow winters over pretty well although putting a couple of inches of mulch over the plants in the fall will reduce the chance of winter kill. So, if you have a riverbank, marsh or rain garden to plant, you would do well to incorporate the lovely rose mallow. Photo Credit: Taylor Creek Nursery (1,2,3)

< Back September - A Jar of Flowers Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Summertime - a flower extravaganza! The beauty of flowers cannot be beat, but now what do we do as summer comes to a close. Is there a way to preserve or hold onto the flowers throughout fall and winter? Did you say throughout winter? Yes, it is possible to preserve your summertime flowers throughout Winter in a fun and creative way with the Little Sprouts in your life using simple items you may have at home! We are going to learn how to not just press our summer flowers, but turn them into a beautiful decoration to give as a gift or keep for ourselves. Supplies Needed : Flowers from garden (best are smaller or more open petal flowers/blooms, leaves, grasses; ex. Cosmos, Pansy, Hydrangea, Daisy, Larkspur, Forget-Me-Not, etc.) Parchment Paper or Tissue Paper Heavy objects (used to lay on top of flowers while pressing) Glass Container (ex. canning, jam/pickle/olive jars), Vase, Votive Mod Podge (DIY - glue & water mixed to a milky consistency) Brush Patience (waiting for flowers to dry may take a couple weeks) Find your favorite “Little Sprout” and visit your flower garden and begin finding your favorite flowers, leaves and grasses. It is a great time to explore and introduce your “Little Sprout” to the world of gardening and explore all there is to see. Watch for pollinators, talk about the various plant parts, shapes, colors and varieties. Cut the flowers you would like to use (choosing drier flowers is best) and with a paper towel gently press the flowers, leaves and grasses trying to get out as much moisture as possible. Now the drying process begins. Place flowers/leaves/grass between double layers of tissue paper and then place between two heavy objects (books, wood pieces with heavy objects placed on top). Flowers/leaves/grasses will take about 2-4 weeks to dry fully. Check on your flowers after a week to see if new tissue paper is needed. Flowers can mold during this process if they start out too moist and changing the tissue paper allows for better moisture absorption. Place heavy objects again on the flowers/leaves/grass. Repeat this process until all items are completely dry. Once all flowers/leaves/grasses are dry it is time to create a “Jar of Flowers”. Take the jar, vase or votive (glass container) you have chosen and with the brush, spread a coat of Mod Podge or the DIY Glue/Water mixture on the outside of the glass trying to put it on as smooth as possible if you do not want brush marks to show. Next, take the dried flowers/leaves/grasses and place them on your glass container as you wish to create a unique design. Add a second layer of Mod Podge or DIY Glue/Water mixture covering all of the glass container. Let dry! Once dry your glass container can be turned into a vase or votive holder. Give the creation away or keep for yourself. It will remind you and your “Little Sprout” throughout the year of your beautiful flower garden and all the fun that can be had with a few flowers, a glue mixture and a glass container/jar. Photo Credits: www.pexels.com (1,2) , www.littlepinelearners.com (3)

< Back Spaghetti Squash (“Cucurbita pepo”) Spaghetti Squash is something to consider introducing to your diet. It is relatively easy to find in the grocery stores in the winter as well as Farmer’s Markets in the late summer months. You can also grow it in your own garden! It is rich in vitamins and antioxidants, low in calorie and carbohydrates, high in fiber, and easy to prepare. Spaghetti Squash is different than typical squash varietals in that it can be shredded into strands resembling “spaghetti” and can be used as a gluten-free replacement to pasta, helping you achieve your carb reduction or weight loss goals. Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Are you looking for a new nutritious vegetable to introduce to your diet? Are you looking to reduce the amount of carbohydrates you consume, or an alternative to traditional spaghetti? Are you interested in finding a new recipe that is easy and fun to make? What Is Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash is a variety of winter squash, native to the Americas. It is a large oval vegetable typically with a light yellow, thin skin. Similar to other winter squash, it has a netting of seeds at its center, which can be roasted and eaten separately. Spaghetti Squash is unique, in that after cooking, its flesh can be shredded into long strands resembling spaghetti. Its botanical name is Cucurbita pepo. How to Prepare Rinse the exterior and cut in half length-wise Remove seeds in the center with a large spoon, scrape out netting Place on rimmed baking sheet or pan with cut-side down Add about ¼ inch of water to pan Bake in 375 degree oven for about 40 minutes or until the outer shell can be pressed down slightly with your finger Remove from oven, flip each half to expose the flesh and let cool a few minutes With a fork, scrape at the flesh, shredding it into spaghetti-like strands Nutritional Information Spaghetti squash is rich in vitamins, antioxidants, and beta-carotene. One cup (155 grams) of cooked spaghetti squash contains the following: Calories: 42 Carbs: 10 grams Fiber: 2.2 grams Protein: 1 gram Fat: 0.4 grams Vitamin C: 6% of the DV Manganese: 7% of the DV Vitamin B6: 9% of the DV Pantothenic acid: 11% of the DV Niacin: 8% of the DV Spaghetti squash also contains small amounts of potassium, thiamine, magnesium, foliate, calcium, and iron. How to grow Spaghetti Squash Spaghetti squash can be grown by directly seeding in your garden. Plant two weeks after the last spring frost, typically the end of May or early June in Minnesota. Chose a spot with full sun (at least 8 hours a day) and a loose, well-drained soil. Amend the soil with compost since the plants need nutrient-dense soil. Plant in hills, with 3 or 4 seeds per hill and 3 feet between each hill. Provide 1 inch of water per week (1-5 gallons per plant) during the growing season. Add water directly to the soil, avoiding the leaves. Spaghetti Squash takes approximately 100 days from planting to harvest – or by the end of August or September. Harvest before the first hard freeze. You can test the ripeness of the fruit by pressing your thumbnail into the rind. It should be hard to pierce. For more information on how to grow spaghetti and other winter squash varieties visit this University of Minnesota Extension website. Recipe Spaghetti squash can be used in a variety of ways and can be a great substitute for traditional pasta, providing a higher nutritional value and lower caloric content. Try this tasty recipe: Spaghetti Squash with Ground Turkey Bolognese Ingredients: One large spaghetti squash One 32-ounce jar of prepared spaghetti sauce or marinara One pound of ground turkey 1 package sliced mushrooms 1 teaspoon oregano Grated parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired Directions: Prepare and bake spaghetti squash in 375 degree oven, as directed above. Brown the ground turkey in a large fry pan with the mushrooms, season with 1 teaspoon oregano Add jar of spaghetti sauce or marinara to fry pan. Simmer 10 minutes. Shred the spaghetti squash into strands; serve on a plate and ladle turkey/sauce mixture over the top. Serve with parmesan cheese, red pepper flakes or hot sauce, if desired References: University of MN Extension Photo credits: Mary Barnidge (1), www.midgetmomma.com (2)