< Back How to Identify Minnesota Native Conifers Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The garden beds are tucked in under an abundant blanket of snow. The wardrobes of the deciduous trees are a distant memory after their yearly fashion show. But for some of us, one of the most beautiful sights this time of year, is the star of the season’s show: the coniferous tree. Most conifers stay green throughout the winter but they are not all the same. It’s February in Minnesota. The dead of winter as they say. The garden beds are tucked in under an abundant blanket of snow. The wardrobes of the deciduous trees are a distant memory after their yearly fashion show. Many having changed from vibrant spring green all the way to the glorious colors of autumn, finally turning brown and floating to the ground to nourish the soil, leaving the trees bare and waiting for the next phase of the cycle to begin again. Many gardeners are dreaming of their favorite plants that will spring back to life again when the warming sun melts away the chill of winter. But for some of us, one of the most beautiful sights this time of year, is the star of the season’s show: the coniferous tree. Though not synonymous with the word evergreen, most conifers in Minnesota do remain green throughout the changing seasons, providing a welcome contrast of color against the white and gray landscape. Note, there are many tropical plants in warmer climates that are evergreens in that they stay green all year, but they are not all conifers. This article will help you identify the lovely conifers native to Minnesota. First of all, it is important to note the difference between conifers and deciduous trees. All trees have leaves, but the leaves of conifers are needles. The other obvious difference is that all conifers have cones to hold their seeds, unlike the various seed covers deciduous trees possess. Many people incorrectly call all cones pinecones, but not all conifers are pine trees. All deciduous trees drop their leaves in winter. It may seem surprising, but conifers lose their needles too. For most conifers, however, it happens over a very long period of time. Rather than drop all of their needles at once like deciduous trees lose their leaves, it may take many years for a conifer to gradually drop and replace all of its needles. There is an exception though, and that is the Tamarack , also known as the eastern or American larch . Each fall, the Tamarack turns a dull yellow in the fall and loses all of its needles just like a deciduous tree loses its leaves. Its cones release tiny winged seeds from its cones which often remain on the tree for years. Tamarack Besides the Tamarack, there are nine other conifers native to Minnesota. They are all true evergreens, slowly changing out their needles over a number of years. Two of the native conifers are cedar trees. One is the eastern red cedar, which is actually a juniper, and the other is the northern white cedar. 1. Eastern red cedar (actually a juniper): The needles on the red cedar are scale-like with four rows lining up along the stem making it appear almost square. Its ¼ inch blue berry-like cone holds one or two seeds that are a bird favorite. Eastern red cedar 2. Northern white cedar : The scale-like needles on the white cedar are arranged in such a way that they appear to form small flat branches. The cones are ½ inch oblong yellowish-brown that grow singly or in clusters at the ends of the branches. Northern white cedar 3. Balsam fir : It is very popular as a holiday tree with its dark green, ½ -1 inch long flat, rounded-tip needles. Its cones are about 3-4 inches long that stand upright on the branches. When it ripens, the seeds fall along with the scales protecting them. What’s left, is the empty inner core of the cone, standing straight up like a spike. Balsam fir 4. Hemlock : The shade-loving hemlock has needles that are about 1/3-2/3 inches long. They are flat and blunt. The cones are ½-3/4 inches long. They hang from the ends of twigs. The hemlock is just barely native to Minnesota, reaching the state up north just south of Lake Superior. Hemlock 5. White Pine : The white pine has 2 ½ - 5 inch long needles that are bluish-green on one side and white-ish on the other side. They grow in bundles of five and they are incredibly soft. The cones are 4-8 inches long. White pine 6. Jack Pine: The jack pine needles are ¾ to 1 ½ inches long that are flat and stubby and grow in bundles of two. The cones are 1 ½ - 2 inches long. They are curved, brown-ish when ripe, and its not uncommon to find ripe seeds on the tree for many years. Jack pine 7. Red Pine (also known as the Norway Pine – the state tree of Minnesota): The 4 - 6 inch long needles of the red pine also grow in clusters of two. If you bend a needle, it makes a clean break. The interesting cones are about 2 inches long and light brown. While they mature and drop their seeds in early fall, the cones remain on the tree until the following spring. Red pine The last two native conifers are the black spruce and the white spruce. Spruce needles are unique in that they are square shaped. You can pull off a singularly grown needle and roll it in your fingers due to its square shape. The needles of the white spruce have an unpleasant odor when crushed. 8. Black Spruce : The cones of the black spruce are ½ - 1 ½ inches long and they start out dark purple and change to brown when they are ripe. Black spruce 9. White Spruce : The cones of the white spruce are about 2 inches long with a slender appearance. White spruce While you may be familiar with names like Fraser Fir, Doulgas Fir, Scotch Pine, and Colorado Blue Spruce, these popular trees commonly used over the holidays, are not actually native to Minnesota and so were not featured in this article. In closing, however, here is a summary to at least help you differentiate between fir, pine, and spruce trees: Fir : Needles are flat and soft. (Remember “friendly fir” - if you were to shake its hand compared to a pointy, stiff spruce.) If you were to pull off a needle, which grows singularly, it would leave a small circular scar on the stem. Pine : Needles group in clusters of two, three, or five depending on the type of tree. The clusters of needles are called fascicles. Most pine cones are woody in texture. Spruce : Spruce needles are sharply pointed, square, and you can roll them between your fingers. They are attached singularly to the stem on small woody structures that remain as projections if you pull a needle off the stem. Spruce cones are generally more flexible than pine cones. For more information, The University of Minnesota has put together this handy booklet: A Beginner’s Guide to MINNESOTA TREES. https://conservancy.umn.edu/bitstream/handle/11299/49816/6593.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y References: https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/trees/native-trees.html (including all photos, except where noted) https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/pine_spruce_or_fir_getting_to_know_michigan_evergreen_trees https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/2005/nov/061401.htm Photo credits: Lisa Olson (1), Minnesota DNR (2 - 12))

< Back Planning A Summer Cocktail or Mocktail Garden One of the joys of gardening is the after-the-gardening-day-is-over refreshment while sitting in or admiring your garden. Whether you prefer a cocktail or a mocktail, part of your garden plan can include great garnishes. Herbs such as basil, lemongrass, mint and many others add something to your garden refreshment and can easily be grown in your garden. This fun article discusses appropriate herbs and how to grow them. And stick around for the recipes at the end! Amanda Drews, Dakota County Master Gardener Whether you are into cocktails or mocktails, here’s some tips on how to grow some great garnishes for either in a small garden. Dry January is over and there might be a cocktail/mocktail (or two!) you’ve been dreaming about. It’s also that time of the year when gardeners get antsy to get back outside so we start making plans and over order seeds online so we have something to look forward to. I want you to take a moment and imagine your favorite summer beverages. Think about what kinds of plants you can grow in a small container at home to add to those drinks. I call this a “cocktail garden” because it sounds way fancier than “drink garden”. But I also use mine to grow ingredients for tea, lemonade, and even cake! Hop online or grab a cookbook and find some recipes for inspiration. Pick out a few versatile plants that could be used for multiple recipes or play around with ones you’ve never tried before. If you’d like to start your garden from seed this University of Minnesota Extension link has some tips for starting herbs indoors in late winter. Make sure your containers have proper drainage and use a soil with low nutrient content so your herbs can focus on maintaining their essential oils (instead of promoting rapid growth). Once they are outside, fertilize sparingly with a 5-10-5 commercial fertilizer only once over a growing season. For indoor container herbs, you can apply a liquid fertilizer every 6 weeks at half the recommendation on the label or for outdoor patio containers, every 3-4 weeks. If you’re looking for seeds, our lovely Master Gardener volunteers have created a seed library at the Farmington Library. If you want to check out what was put into the seed libraries last year, here’s a link to the 2025 Seed Library List pdf . Here are some small cocktail garden or patio plants to choose from: -Basil (Likes full sun and well-drained soil) -Mint (Good for Mojitos and Mint Juleps. Likes partial shade) -Lemon balm (Good for tea. Likes partial shade and dry soil) -Lemon grass (Good for iced tea. Likes moist soil) -Lemon verbena (Good in a lemon cake. You can’t drink on an empty stomach!) -Sage and Thyme (Muddle into drinks or make into a simple syrup) -Chamomile (Good for tea) -Lavender and Rosemary (Good for lemonade or make into a simple syrup) -Borage and Nasturtium (Purple and orange flowers for a garnish) -Jalapeños (Good for spicy margaritas) -Blueberries and Strawberries (Great as additions to many drinks) -Stevia (Grown as a sweetener) I’ve found I don’t need much for a small patio cocktail garden and wait until the plant sales in the Spring to buy individual plants. I use 2-3 stackable containers, each with 3 sections for pots. Consider which side of your container will be shaded and either add taller or shade tolerant herbs there and face your sun-lovers toward the light. Put moisture loving plants toward the bottom and plants that tolerate drier soil on the top level. Now you’ve got a stack of bodacious botanicals to choose from after a long day of gardening! Here are a couple of recipes to get you started. References: https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-herbs https://crowwingmastergardeners.org/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/Plant-Guide-Herbs.pdf https://www.co.dakota.mn.us/libraries/Using/Seed/Documents/SeedLibraryInventory.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-basil https://extension.umn.edu/flowers/edible-flowers Picture credits: Amanda Drews (1-3)

< Back So, You Want to Grow Your Own Apples! Gardeners have an old saying – “Right plant, right place”! It’s fun to imagine walking out into your yard and picking apples from your own apple trees. But, of course, there are a few things to know before going to your local nursery and picking up your trees. Read this article to learn more and start visualizing those delicious apples! Marjory Blare, Master Gardener It’s fun to imagine walking out into your yard and picking apples from your own apple trees. But, of course, there are a few things to know before going to your local nursery and picking up your trees. Before you start: Step 1 : Apple trees need two varieties to fruit. The second tree can be a crabapple that blooms at the same time as your tree. Step 2 : Evaluate the place you want to plant your apple tree(s). A. Does it get at least 6 hours (preferably 8) of full sun? B. Does it drain well? C. Is there enough room for the mature tree? Step 3 : Research cultivars before you got to a nursery. A. Any tree smaller than a standard is going to be grafted onto a rootstock that will determine the mature size. B. A standard size tree can grow between 20 and 30 feet tall. You will need 26 square feet. C. A semi-dwarf tree will be between 14 and 22 feet tall. It will need an area of about 20 square feet. D. Dwarf trees grow between 6 and 12 feet and need an area of about 14 feet square. A super-dwarf tree will need staking its entire life. E. For best pollination, make sure both cultivars are hardy in zone 4 and that the bloom time is the same. F. For more on root stocks: https://apples.extension.org/understanding-apple-tree-size-dwarf-semi-dwarf-and-standard/ One-year-old graft Super-dwarf rootstock Four-year-old graft semi-dwarf rootstock] Ten-year-old graft super-dwarf rootstock Step 4 : After you have a few cultivars in mind, it’s off to the nursery A. Make sure you have a good way to transport your tree(s). B. Cushion the branches and trunk when tying it down. C. The nursery may wrap the tree’s canopy for you, or you can cover it with a well tied-down tarp. D. Drive slowly, you don’t want the foliage to get wind-whipped. https://trees.umn.edu/sites/trees.umn.edu/files/files/best-planting-practices.pdf Step 5 : Prepare the planting site before you take the tree out of its container. Have water and back-fill ready. Water the back-fill when the hole is half full and again when it’s full. It’s good to have a slight mound around the hole to help direct the water. If necessary, have staking supplies ready. Step 6 : Planting your tree(s) A. Bare-root stock: this allows you to spread out the roots and easily make sure there are no stem-girdling roots. Stem-girdling roots grow around the trunk and as they increase in size, they can strangle the trunk. You can buy bare-root or wash the soil off a (smaller) container-grown tree. B. Container-grown stock: make sure to cut any stem-girdling roots and roots above the trunk flare (the bottom of the trunk gets wider before the roots start). https://extension.umn.edu/how/planting-and-transplanting-trees-and-shrubs#container-grown-1399864 C. Ball-and-burlap stock: make sure you have help or hire someone to plant the tree. Again, inspect the trunk where it meets the soil ball to look for stem girdling roots. Step 7 : Check here https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-apples , for advice on aftercare, pest management and harvesting and storage. Happy growing! Photo credits: Marjory Blare (all)

< Back Avoid Overbuying Seeds Gardening season is over for this year. Or is it? Are you already dreaming and planning for next year’s garden? Soon it will be time to buy seeds. But don’t let your enthusiasm lead you to overbuying seeds. The best way to avoid overbuying is to use a systematic process for planning, purchasing, and storing seeds. Read this article for some tips to help you plan wisely. BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener Before you shop Create a garden map . Sketch out your garden space and calculate the total area in square feet. Measure the size of your beds and sketch what you want to plant in each area, accounting for spacing. Asking a neighbor, friend or family member to assist with measuring helps this step flow smoothly. How much space do you have for direct sowing? Or will you begin with indoor seedlings, shelves and grow lights? The University of Minnesota Extension has many resources for planning successfully. Vegetables . Choose plants your family will eat. Look beyond the attractive photos in catalogs and focus on vegetables you know you will consume. Start with a few favorites and limit yourself to just two or three new vegetables per season. Flowers . Choose plants to provide color and variety throughout the growing season. If you are just starting a new or replacement decorative garden, chose perhaps three or four types. For example, plants you have seen growing well near you. For me, I like flowers that remind me of family gardens of my youth. Check your existing inventory . Before ordering, sort through the seeds you already have. Organize them in labeled containers to know what you have and what you need. When storing, check the shelf life. Remember that some seeds have a shorter shelf life than others. For example, onion seeds are only viable for one to two years, while tomatoes and peppers can last for several years. Calculate your needs . Rather than buying a large packet, determine the quantity you need based on the number of plants you want. For example, if you want four plants, you will only need about five seeds, assuming a 90% germination rate. Some seed companies offer online calculators to help. It’s fun to spend the gardening off-season planning and buying seeds. But holding your enthusiasm in check will help you to avoid some buying waste. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), www.gardenorganic.org.uk (from all creative commons) (3)

< Back Managing Salt Damage on Plants B.J. Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener Minnesota winters inevitably bring snow and ice on our driveways and sidewalks. Various deicer products are often used to manage these winter hazards. But many Minnesota plants are sensitive the chemicals that are in the deicers. This article will help you to know which plants are susceptible to salt damage and which plants can resist salt damage. Winters in Dakota County can be freezing cold, snowy, and windy. These conditions require sidewalk shoveling, driveway snow-blowing, manual ice scraping and street plowing up to and including applications of deicer products. Your d iligent clearing of snow and ice may minimize the amount of deicer spread across sidewalks, and driveways during the course of winter. Remember also, that as the ice and snow melts, the salts will run-off into the garden and impact garden plants roots. Many Minnesota plants are sensitive to road salt, which can cause dehydration, nutrient deficiencies, and eventual death due to both salt spray on foliage and salt accumulation in the soil. Evergreens are particularly vulnerable. The composition of deicer products varies depending upon requirements of the area. The primary difference is that "road salt" typically refers to raw, inexpensive rock salt for large-scale use, think streets and highways. While "sidewalk salt" (or "ice melt") often includes blends of different chemicals such as calcium chloride or magnesium chloride which are more effective in colder temperatures and can be less damaging to surfaces and plants. You can minimize the negative effects of deicer products on the plants in your garden by understanding which plants are better able to tolerate the chemicals. Choice of plant type and placement augments the plant’s innate ability to tolerate deicers salts. Here is information about plants that are and are not tolerant to deicers. Native Minnesota trees and shrubs that are sensitive to road salt include: Maples (Red maple, Silver maple, Sugar maple); Dogwoods (Grey dogwood, Red-osier dogwood, Red twig dogwood); Basswood (American basswood, Littleleaf linden); Pines (Eastern white pine, Red pine, Scots pine); and Firs (Balsam fir, Concolor fir). salt damaged evergreen Meanwhile, other Minnesota plants, including trees, shrubs, and perennials, are tolerant of road salt and are excellent choices for landscaping near roads, driveways, and sidewalks. Deciduous plants are generally more salt-tolerant than evergreens as they shed their leaves annually. These include trees such as: Oaks (Bur, Northern Red, and Swamp White); Hackberry; Honey Locust; Kentucky Coffee tree; River Birch; Serviceberry and Eastern red cedar. Along with shrubs : Sumacs (Staghorn & Smooth); Chokeberry; Winterberry; Lilacs; Viburnums ( Viburnum spp. ); Junipers ( Juniperus spp. ); Potentilla; and Rose ( Rosa rugosa ). Black Chokeberry Additionally, the following grasses, perennials and wildflowers are effective at handling both salt spray and soil accumulation and are excellent for boulevard gardens. Grasses : Little Bluestem; Big Bluestem; Switchgrass; Prairie Dropseed; Perennials and Wildflowers: Black-Eyed Susan; Purple Coneflower; Goldenrod; Asters; Butterfly Milkweed; Catmint; Sedums; Daylilies; and Yarrow. Common Milkweed For specific recommendations on seed mixes for different applications, the Minnesota Stormwater Manual provides detailed guidance. From quick facts about managing deicing products to in depth area management are available here: https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/effects-deicing-salts-landscapes Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1,3), Missouri Botanical Garden (2)

< Back Choosing Iris in Minnesota Sarah Heidtke, Dakota County Master Gardener Late spring and early summer bring Iris blooms in Minnesota! Strolling through the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, you will find many varieties of iris located in the Perennial Garden, and all around the Arb. In fact, the UMN Arboretum website arb.umn.edu lists 677 individual specimens currently on the website’s plant finder! You can plant iris in your own garden but which ones to choose? Read on for some considerations when choosing iris for your Minnesota garden. Several different types of iris can be grown in Dakota County and around Minnesota. Sun exposure and soil conditions are important considerations when choosing which type to plant. Of course, there are so many beautiful colors and forms to choose from for your garden design too! Blue Flag Iris ( iris versicolor ) is one of my favorite plants in my own garden - and is native to Minnesota. Blue Flag Iris can handle part shade to sun, and soils that are semi-moist to moist. This is a great option for the edges of rain gardens and marshes. ( minnesotawildflowers.info ) Blue Flag Iris Dutch Iris ( iris hollandica ) grow from bulbs, rather than rhizomes like other iris, and do best with full sun and well-drained soil. Most varieties are hardy in Zones 5-9, so they are grown as annuals in colder climates. I have had mixed results with this variety coming back in my Dakota County home garden, depending on the winter. They are a sweet bit of spring color. Dutch Iris Bearded Iris ( iris or iris germanica ) need full sun and well-drained, leaning to dry, soil. According to the Minnesota Historical Society, avoid over-watering once iris are established, and keep mulch away from the rhizomes in order to prevent disease and rot. It is quite a striking sight to see individual plants, or a mass of bearded iris standing tall (blooms on single stems can rise above 3 feet!) Bearded Iris Japanese Iris ( iris ensata ) are “beardless” and bloom after the Bearded iris, allowing the iris show to continue past July (Iris Society of Minnesota). They have larger, flatter, blooms and prefer more moisture in their soil than the Bearded iris (University of MN Extension). Japanese Iris Siberian Iris ( iris sibirica ) are also “beardless,” grown in part to full sun, and tolerate “a wide variety of soils, but will perform best when grown in moist fertile, organically rich, slightly acidic, well drained soils,” according to North Carolina Extension. Siberian Iris Other varieties of iris that can be grown in Minnesota and are listed on the Arboretum’s website, such as: Cattail iris (iris typhifolia), Orchid Iris (iris histroides), Dwarf crested iris (iris cristata), Sandy Iris (iris arenaria), Dalmation Iris (iris pallida), Roof Iris (iris tectorum), Spuria Iris (iris spuria), Blackberry lily (iris domestica) - are found in the perennial garden as well as the dedicated Iris Garden. You will also find an abundance of iris all around the arboretum. Something catch your attention? Use the Plant Finder tool at arb.umn.edu and find your way to a new favorite bloom if the time is right! Here’s an iris to watch out for and not in a good way: Yellow iris ( iris pseudacorus ). Yellow Iris is found in boggy areas and near waterways. It is a “regulated invasive species,” in Minnesota, meaning plants are “legal to buy, sell, transport and possess but may not be introduced into a free-living state, such as released into public waters (UMN Extension). Why worry about planting yellow iris? It competes with native shoreline vegetation and should be reported to the Minnesota Department of Resources if found. The Arb lists one occurrence of this species - on the Fern Walk. See you if you spot it next time you visit! Wherever you’ve found a place to add an iris (or a few) to your garden, there’s a right iris for you. Happy planting! Resources https://www.irismn.net/ minnesotawildflowers.info https://northerngardener.org/irises/ https://arb.umn.edu/ https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/iris-sibirica/ Photo Credit: Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (1), Gayle Bergevin (2,6), Sarah Heidtke (3,4,5,7)

< Back March is a Great Time to Prune Many Trees and Shrubs Sally McNamara, Master Gardener Don’t let the fact that there is still snow on the ground deter you from getting outside and pruning the trees and shrubs in your yard that need it. Late winter and early spring is the best time to prune most trees and shrubs. This article will provide some advice on how to go about it to make your plants and yourself pleased with the result. Don’t let the fact that there is still snow on the ground deter you from getting outside and pruning the trees and shrubs in your yard that need it. Late winter and early spring is the best time to prune most trees and shrubs. This article will provide some advice on how to go about it to make your plants and yourself pleased with the result. Believe it or not, the biggest mistake with pruning shrubs is being too conservative. While it is certainly possible to REMOVE too much, most pruners LEAVE too much. The other major mistake is not using sharp, effective pruning tools. Cutting is easier and better for the plant with the right size sharp tool. Disinfecting tools with a disinfecting wipe between plants is ALWAYS a good idea to prevent any potential for disease spread. There are 5 reasons to prune: 1) Remove diseased, damaged or dangerous material 2) Develop a strong framework for growth 3) Improve air circulation and fruit production 4) Improve a plant’s shape 5) Control size - although planting the right-sized plant initial is a better solution Timing Most pruning of both trees and shrubs is best done in late winter/early spring when the plants are just coming out of dormancy, the form of the plant without the leaves is visible, and the sap is beginning to flow. Sap moving into the pruning wounds helps the healing process and prevents drying out of the plant material. Winter winds will extract moisture from the plant through the pruning cuts so fall is NOT a good time to prune. The one big exception to this rule is maples and birch which can be pruned after the spring sap flow has slowed. Spring flowering plants should typically be pruned AFTER they flower. Summer and fall bloomers are best pruned in the late winter/early spring. Pruning during the growing season opens the plant to disease and insect damage. Oaks especially should not be pruned between April and August to avoid the picnic beetle which spreads oak wilt. Plant material damaged by storms, etc. should be removed as soon as possible if it could cause harm to people or structures. Diseased or insect damaged material should be removed to limit spread of the problem. Discarding of diseased material should be done with care - bag and discard in the trash for small amounts. Transfer to a facility that composts material to a proper temperature for larger quantities. Proper cuts The magic words in pruning are “branch collar” followed by “branch bud”. Using the t hree-cut method to remove most of the branch weight before complete removal is important on large branches to prevent ripping the bark down the tree. Branches should always be cut back to the branch collar and cut cleanly at that point. Cutting further in or leaving a stump out decreases the tree’s ability to grow protective bark over the wound and increases the chance of disease and insect damage. Smaller branches should be cut at a bud point to encourage growth and not leave material for decay. When pruning away dead material, prune well back to living material. General pruning of shrubs should be done to improve overall plant health. Recommended. Removing old growth to the trunk or soil results in a refreshed plant, such as pictured below. Discouraged. Shearing the plant encourages more growth in the top part, limiting light and air to the interior, causing dead inner branches. An excellent reference book on pruning is ESSENTIAL PRUNING TECHNIQUES: Trees, Shrubs, Conifers by George E. Brown and Tony Kirkham. So, put on your warm jacket and boots and give your trees and shrubs a proper haircut before the warm days of spring! Photo credits: theiowagardener.com (1), Alden Land Nursery Livermore CA (2), thisoldhouse.com (3, 4, 5)

< Back Herbs For A Winter Lift Does the cilantro go limp before you use it? Is the basil brown when you remember to reach for it? Does your store tend to not have chives when you need them? Remedy these issues AND cheer up your indoor space by growing a few pots of herbs in a sunny window. Read this article to learn more about which herbs will grow best inside your house this winter. Sally McNamara, Dakota County Master Gardener Does the cilantro go limp before you use it? Is the basil brown when you remember to reach for it? Does your store tend to not have chives when you need them? Remedy these issues AND cheer up your indoor space by growing a few pots of herbs in a sunny window. West or east facing are best. One can use grow lights but herbs can be happy with good light from windows. Which herbs could you grow? Aloe does not usually show up on an indoor herb list but it is super easy to grow, and share, and is really handy in the case of a kitchen burn. Slice a spear and spread the goo on the burn. Aloe reproduces readily and either needs to be shared or thinned or your kitchen will be full of aloe plants. Aloe can be planted in cactus mix soil. Basil is easy to find as a potted plant but is not long lasting. It is nice to have fresh basil leaves exactly when you need them but it might be challenging to grow enough for a good pesto in a window pot. Be generous in using it and replace it when it gets spindly. Chives take a while to fill a pot if planted from seed but are handy to have on hand. Cut them and they will regrow from the roots. One option is to pot up a piece of an outdoor bunch in fall to have on hand over the winter. Cilantro is a good choice if enough is grown to really be useful. A few sprigs usually is not what the recipe wants. Cilantro, like basil has a short life span so starting pots in a sequence will give a more continuous supply. Good draining and adequate water are important for success with cilantro. Sage , thyme and oregano all do well indoors. Drainage is important. Cutting the plants to use them encourages more growth. Lemon balm is not as useful in meal cooking as the herbs above but it is an easy to grow, very fragrant and attractive plant which goes into desserts and drinks and is a stress reliever. Snip and bruise some leaves for a quick lift of the spirits. It might want a little more space than some others. Rosemary might be one of the most useful and attractive herbs to grow because it doesn’t take many leaves to enhance a recipe but it can be fussy indoors. Good drainage, good light and letting the soil dry between waterings are important. This is a prime candidate for overwintering as it grows bigger each season; it is a shrub not an annual plant. Often an overwintered rosemary blooms with blue flowers inside in winter. Check for insects when bringing it in the fall. Warning: overwintering rosemary is a competitive sport to some of us. Indoor plants are mood enhancing generally but even more so when they are useful and decorative. The worst that can happen is learning how NOT to care for your herbs. We all grow by trying with some success and some failure. Photo Credit: www.pickpik.com (All Creative Commons) (1), en.wikipedia.org (All Creative Commons) (2), Whitwam Organics (3), The Growers Exchange (4), www.publicdomainpictures.net (5), kathleenkirkpoetry.blogspot.com (6), commons.wikimedia.org (7)

< Back Zinnias: Vibrant Accents to a Northern Garden You know that zinnias provide a beautiful flourish to the summer garden. The varieties and colors are endless and can be enjoyed from late Spring into the Fall. But did you know that growing Zinnias from seed is both easy and rewarding? Read this article to learn why you might want to grow your own zinnias from seed this year. Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener Not every seed is created equal. Trying to get some of the native perennials to germinate seems to require an Act of Congress. And they’re gridlocked! Not so with the humble but glorious zinnia. In my book, zinnias are some of the most overlooked yet rewarding annuals a Minnesotan could hope for. Although originating in Mexico and the Southwestern U.S., varieties have been developed all over the world. Yet they all still retain their love of warmth and sunlight, a commodity sometimes in short supply up here. Fear not! Simply sew zinnia seeds after the last hard frost and bide your time. As things warm up the seedlings will take care of the rest, producing blooms from late spring, far into the fall. If you have a warm sunny spot inside, you might even consider starting some seeds four to six weeks before the last frost. Unlike some more persnickety plants, zinnias germinate readily. You can set them out in the garden when they get two to four inches tall and enjoy weeks of blooms before the seeds you sewed get in gear. There are many varieties of zinnias ranging in height from 6 inches to 4 feet. I like the older, smaller blooms. They are hardy, fast growing, and tough plants. As I said, they do need full sun and warmth, but ask little else. One fertilization a season usually suffices. They are quite disease resistant. Powdery mildew seems to be the only common malady. It doesn’t look very attractive, but the plants usually survive. To keep them happy and mildew free, select a well-drained location for planting. Zinnias don’t like their feet wet. Mixed zinnias in full summer bloom If you find a variety you really like, consider collecting seeds in the late fall. Just cut off the spent flowers, shake out the seeds onto a sheet of paper, slip them into an envelope and store in the fridge until early next spring to start indoors or sew in the garden a bit later. Either way you will have bold, bright colors to cheer you through the gardening season! Late fall zinnia seed heads ready for harvest Want to learn more about zinnias than you thought there was to learn? Try Eric Grissell’s new book, A History of Zinnias: Flower for the Ages , Perdue University Press, West Layette, IN, 2020. Photo credits: Jim Lakin (1, 2)

< Back How To Identify Butterflies Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern Few things in nature enchant both children and adults more than butterflies. Whether feeding on a flower or basking in the sun, butterflies, in every imaginable color, with patterns and markings that only nature could create, delight the soul. And like all things in nature we love, we want to know more about them. But butterflies are also important pollinators. Traveling long distances and responsible for one in every three bites of food we consume, butterflies contribute over 200 billion dollars to the food economy worldwide. It seems appropriate to know more about which of these essential creatures are visiting our gardens. Read this article for important advice about how to identify the butterflies that you see. Why would you want to identify butterflies? They are worse than birds - always on the move and tiny too! First, few things in nature enchant both children and adults more than butterflies. Whether feeding on a flower or basking in the sun, butterflies, in every imaginable color, with patterns and markings that only nature could create, delight the soul. And like all things in nature we love, we want to know more about them. Second, they are important pollinators. Their immense diversity and ability to adapt to many environments - including mountain tops, rainforests and mangrove swamps - benefit plants because butterflies transfer pollen while feeding. Traveling long distances and responsible for one in every three bites of food we consume, butterflies contribute over 200 billion dollars to the food economy worldwide. It seems appropriate to know more about which of these essential creatures are visiting our gardens. For tools and tips that will help you identify butterflies, read on. Butterfly identification is hampered by the fact that butterflies often don’t stay still long enough for us to even whip out our field guides, let alone find whatever page the unknown butterfly might be on. Thank goodness for smart phone cameras. Snap a photo the second you see an unknown butterfly, before it even thinks of taking off. That way, if it does, at least you have something to help you identify it. If it doesn’t – you will learn to be faster. While the smart phone camera is one of the best tools for identifying butterflies, you will also find these tools useful: 1. A butterfly identification guide. My review of the butterfly guides at the Dakota County library and the MN Landscape Arboretum Gift shop suggests finding the right one is a tricky business. The big, fat guides listing all 170,500+ butterflies found in the world can be expensive. In addition, you are probably not interested in identifying every butterfly in the world because only about 160 of these - plus a few strays - ever visit Minnesota. For my reviews and recommendations of field guides click here . 2. Close focusing binoculars. Next to the smart phone camera, this tool has been the single greatest aid to field identification of butterflies. Consider getting them if you decide to get serious about butterfly identification and want to spend the money. For more information about them, click on this link. Ball-Reference for butterfly article .pdf Download PDF • 89KB All that said, it is OK not to be “serious” about butterfly identification. On the other hand, you may be in-between “serious” and not caring at all. About eighteen butterflies are commonly found in Minnesota. You may want to get to know all of those or maybe just a few. So, you may or may not want to spend money on close focusing binoculars. Start by trying to identify butterflies and see how it goes. Click here for images from the Minnesota Zoo of some of the most commonly seen butterflies in this area and here is information on the top commonly reported butterflies and moths in Minnesota. Here are some other useful things to know when trying to identify butterflies : Butterfly Anatomy : Look up photos of butterfly anatomy. Identification guides will refer to dorsal and ventricle wings, eyespots and other butterfly “parts”. If you do not know to what these terms refer, you won’t know what your field guide is talking about when it tells you that black swallowtails, a common butterfly seen in MN, have “tails”. Additionally, without this knowledge you will not have the vocabulary to note what you see. Where to find butterflies: · Sun preferences : Sun loving butterflies - like Monarchs and Viceroys - are usually found in bright, open spots like fields, pastures, parks, and roadsides. If you know someone with a butterfly garden, invite yourself over, or visit one of Minnesota’s pollinator gardens. (location in Minneapolis ; location in St. Paul ). Shade-loving butterflies, on the other hand, favor sheltered spots like forests and woodland edges, places with less sunlight. · Host plants : Every butterfly has a specific plant or plants where it deposits its larvae (caterpillars) - its “host plant”. The larvae feed on the host plant and subsequently turn into butterflies. Monarchs, for example, feed exclusively on the leaves of milkweed. Learn about which plants are hosts to your favorite butterflies. · Colorful flowers : They tend to attract butterflies because butterflies rely on the sugar-rich nectar. However, some butterflies, like the Question Mark, never visit flowers. Look for them around rotting fruit, animal dung, dead animal carcasses, or tree sap. · Mud puddles and stream banks : “puddle club” butterflies gather at mud puddles and stream banks to drink water and take in salts and other nutrients. · Movement corridors : As previously noted, butterflies are usually moving so other good places to find them are “movement corridors”. Movement corridors are forest trails, waterways, woodland edges, and even, believe it or not, power lines! Butterflies use these flyways for many purposes, including migrating long distances and locating mates. When to find butterflies : Butterflies are most active during the day between 10 in the morning and 5 in the afternoon. Warm, sunny days are crucial for butterfly viewing because butterflies are cold-blooded. Unable to generate the body heat they need to warm up and fly, they must rely on sunlight. Thus cool, cloudy days are bad for butterfly viewing. Ditto for windy days. Strong winds also interfere with flight as do rain and even mild showers. How to approach butterflies : If you have ever tried to sneak up on a butterfly, you know they can take off before you are even halfway there. So, approach slowly and with caution. Butterflies have excellent eyesight and startle easily (so don’t let them see you coming). Sneak up from the lowest angle possible. Butterflies are on the alert for predators, which usually attack from above, so that is where they will be looking for danger. Pay attention to your shadow. Sudden changes in light may signal a potential predator to a butterfly so it will take off. Now that you have spotted a butterfly, how can you identify its type? · Moth or butterfly : Is this flying insect actually a butterfly? Or could it be a moth? It is easy to be fooled because many moths are more colorful than some butterflies. Notice the antenna: butterflies have long antenna with a ball or club-like tip. Moths have “fuzzy” antenna. · Size : Field guides will list butterfly wingspans in inches and/or centimeters which is rarely helpful in the field. Notice instead whether the butterfly is Small, Medium, or Large. The Monarch and the Swallowtail, for example, are LARGE butterflies. Using the them as a comparison helps you determine which butterflies are medium and small-sized. · Color : Notice the butterfly’s overall color. · Patterns or markings : Does the butterfly have distinct stripes, bands or eye spots? Where are they? Upper or lower wing? Edges? Center? · Wing shape: The wing shape will help you identify the family to which your butterfly belongs, considerably shortening the number of pages you will have to turn to find your butterfly. Swallowtails, for example, belong to the family “Papilionidae .” Most of its members have ‘tails.’ · Flight pattern and behavior : Butterflies have four wings that are connected in a way that allows the wings to move independently, allowing a wide variety of flight patterns. Therefore, observing flight patterns is a good way to identify butterflies. For example, does the butterfly flutter slowly with a weak, relaxed motion or whiz past with a strong, rapid flight? Does it fly low to the ground or soar far overhead? Does the butterfly bob up and down or periodically glide following a series of quick wing beats? “ Skipper butterflies,” for example, are called skippers because their flight pattern resembles a series of “skips”. · Range : Many butterfly species are found only in certain regions of Minnesota, or even the country. Consult a field guide range map and always start with the most probable identification. Initially, noticing all these features and remembering them may be overwhelming. It helps to record your observations and take a photo. Once you have made them, you can consult your butterfly guide. Over time your skills will increase. You will soon learn to recognize many common Minnesota butterflies like: Monarchs (our state butterfly) and Viceroys (often mistaken for Monarchs and vice versa) and Mourning Cloaks , one of 8 or so butterflies that overwinter in Minnesota. Identifying butterflies can be a fun summer activity for adults and children alike. Following these tips can make the experience more rewarding. Happy butterfly watching! REFERENCES https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/index.html Carter, David, Butterflies and Moths, Smithsonian Handbooks, NYC, New York, 2023 Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Farris Bryant Building620 S. Meridian St. • Tallahassee, FL • (850) 488-4676 Minnesota Butterflies, inaturalist, https://www.inaturalist.org/guides/1647?taxon=47922 https://tpwd.texas.gov/publications/pwdpubs/media/pwd_bk_w7000_0752.pdf https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/attracting-butterflies/focus-on-natives-giant-swallowtail-butterfly/ https://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/butterfly-behavior-basics/ Wing, Scarlett & 3 more, Butterflies and Moths (Smithsonian Kids First Discovery Books) Board book – Touch and Feel, April 29, 2019 http://www.minnesotaseasons.com/Main/Butterflies.html#:~:text ecoredux.com https://www.ecoredux.com › butterflies-are-important Daniels, Jaret, Butterfly Watching Basics, University of Florida, IFAS Extension, July 2008; produced with cooperation and funding from FL Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission and the FL Museum of Natural History. https://www.lccmr.mn.gov/projects/2014/finals/2014_05j1_MNZoo_ButterflyNeighbor_ENG.pdf https://www.lccmr.mn.gov/projects/2014/finals/2014_05j1_MNZoo_ButterflyNeighbor_ENG.pdf Photo 1, credit: commons.wikimedia.org (all creative commons) Photo 2, credit: publicdomainpictures.net (all creative commons) Photo 3, credit: flickr.com (all creative commons) Photo 4, credit: en.wiktionary.org (all creative commons) Photo 5, credit: Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Extension Photo 6, credit: Marylandbiodiversity.com (all creative commons)

< Back Creating a Butterfly Habitat Susan Ball, Dakota Master Gardener Would you like to attract a variety of butterflies to your garden? Different plants and environments attract different types of butterflies. So, if you really want to focus on particular butterflies, you can do it by planting appealing plants and creating welcoming environments. Read this informative article about what you need to do to attract butterflies to your garden. Would you like to attract a variety of butterflies to your garden? Different plants and environments attract different types of butterflies. So, if you really want to focus on particular butterflies, you can do it by planting appealing plants and creating welcoming environments. For example, asking, “what color flowers will attract butterflies?” is the wrong question to ask. Or rather, an incomplete question. Successful butterfly gardening requires creating “butterfly habitat,” which addresses each type of butterfly’s needs over its entire life cycle. The life cycle of the butterfly consists of four distinct stages: egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa (chrysalis: sack-like covering), and adult. A successful butterfly garden must provide food and habitat for both adult butterflies and their caterpillars all year round. Though many butterflies will drink nectar from a variety of flowering plants, their caterpillars are often limited as to which plants they can feed on. These plants are called “host plants”. I n order to create a successful butterfly habitat you must have: 1. A combination of adult nectar sources and larval host plants . Your goal is to attract the maximum variety of species to remain in your yard, reproduce and build populations, not to pass through for a snack on their way to more attractive living quarters. While butterflies need both host and nectar plants to complete their life cycles, an emphasis on host plants encourages butterflies to breed within given areas. Each kind of butterfly uses a limited range of host plants, but many host plants also provide nectar; in other words, a “twofer;” consider these plants first. Milkweed is a good example of a twofer: a host plant and nectar provider for Monarch butterflies. 2. Native species and their favorite landscapes . Most larval host plants are natives. Click here for a list of butterflies and their host plants from the University of Minnesota Extension. Remember that larval host plants are meant to be eaten . Damaged leaves or even plants that are completely defoliated is a good thing. It means your butterfly garden has attracted butterflies that have reproduced! And only a few plants are eaten to the ground by butterfly larvae; examples being, milkweed, parsley, dill, and fennel. These plants, however, often rebound several times before they must be replaced. On other hosts, like trees, most shrubs and grasses, feeding damage is barely noticeable, and what there is encourages healthy, new plant growth. NOTE: many nurseries use pesticides and these chemicals can be deadly to butterfly larvae. When buying host plants always ask if they have been treated with pesticides. Similarly, be very careful when using pesticides in your garden. If you must use chemicals, use them sparingly, and only treat the infected plant. 3. Shelter and a variety of feeding opportunities . Plants with different heights and growth habits appeal to a greater variety of butterflies by providing more opportunities for feeding and shelter. For example, when monarch and queen butterflies are looking for nectar, they are generally attracted to taller flowers. And don’t forget trees: wild cherry (which hosts tiger swallowtail ) and willow (which hosts Viceroy - a monarch look-alike) provides both food and shelter . In addition, wild cherry and willow also produce nectar that attracts many other kinds of butterflies. Tiger Swallowtail Butterfly 4. Plants which have different blooming times . These plants provide food for butterflies during periods of low natural availability. Flowers, like asters, which are late season bloomers, are important sources of nectar for butterflies (as well as bees and other pollinators) in the fall. Asters 5. Plants with different flower colors and different flower shapes . Different butterfly species are attracted to different flower colors : yellow, orange, white, and blue flowers as well as reds, pinks, and purples, but the shape of the flower is important too. The feeding behavior and length of the proboscis (aka: butterfly tongue) dictate which flowers butterflies visit. Long-tubed flowers are more accessible to species with long probosces whereas many composites (daisy-like flowers, like black-eyed Susans and Stokes’ aster) provide a feeding platform and easy nectar accessibility for smaller species. As a rule, small butterflies feed on nectar from small flowers and large butterflies feed on nectar from larger ones. Avoid double flowers. They are usually bred for showiness, not nectar production. 6. Plant in shade as well as full sun . Shade appeals to more butterfly species, especially forest species butterflies. The Giant Swallowtail and the Mustard White are Minnesota butterflies that prefer a shady woodland habitat. A rare shade-loving species, the Taiga Alpine , occurs in northern Minnesota exclusively, when in the lower 48 states. Mustard White Butterfly (first of its kind documented at Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, 2021 7. Group plantings of flowers . Group plantings of flowers are more apparent in the landscape, not only to us but to butterflies as well, allowing larvae to locate additional food in the event of shortage. 8. Habitat and food for “no-flower” butterflies . There are butterflies that rarely visit flowers, like the Question Mark . These butterflies hang around rotting fruit, animal dung, dead animal carcasses - which you may or may not want to supply - or tree sap. If you have fruit trees, you can leave fallen fruit, like apples, on the ground. Then there are also the “ puddle club ” butterflies - mostly male. They gather at mud puddles and stream banks to drink water and take in salts and other nutrients. You’ll attract these butterflies if you live on or near water, or you can create your own “puddles” to attract them. 9. Shelter for “overwintering” butterflies . There are about nine butterflies that overwinter in Minnesota, among them the Question Mark. Although many of them “hibernate”, only coming out during the winter if there is an exceptionally warm day, these butterflies need shelter during the winter months to survive our climate. Adjust your fall cleanup to provide habitat for them. Don’t mulch everything. Leaf litter from large plants, like hostas, for example, provides shelter for butterflies and other pollinators. Also, don’t cut your spent flowers and plants down to the ground. Leaving 18” to 20” worth of stems and leaves also provides shelter for these overwintering butterflies. In addition, you can take fallen sticks and stems, bundle them together and put them in an out-of-the-way place in your yard to provide more habitat. To sum up: Be less tidy! Provide a year-round combination of food and shelter for butterflies. Then, sit back this summer on your lounger, a glass of lemonade or ice tea by your side, and enjoy your successful butterfly garden! REFERENCES “Butterfly Gardens”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/index.html “Butterfly, Bee and Moth Garden Designs”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/gardens/butterfly/designs.html Krischik, Vera, “Creating a Butterfly Garden”, https://extension.umn.edu/landscape-design/creating-butterfly-garden . Contains a list of butterflies and their host plants Malone, Kathy, IFAS Publication “COMMUNITY BUTTERFLYSCAPING: HOW TO MOVE BEYOND BUTTERFLY GARDENING TO CREATE A LARGE-SCALE BUTTERFLY HABITAT” (contains tables listing flowers and hosts for specific butterflies), https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP420 Reeves, Walter, “Attract Butterflies to Your Garden by Building a Butterfly Puddle”, You Tube, U of GA Extension: https://extension.uga.edu/ Stokes, Donald and Llillian, The Butterfly Book: An Easy Guide to Butterfly Gardening, Identification, and Behavior, Little, Brown and Co., New York, NY 1991. Weisenhorn, Julie, “UMN Extension Fall Cleanup for Pollinators” (video), https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/flowers-pollinators “Rare Species”, https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/rsg/profile.html?action=elementDetail&selectedElement=IILEPN8140#:~:text=The taiga alpine is listed, clearly a long-term threat. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1), www.flickr.com (all creative commons) (2), www.publicdomainpictures.net (3,4), https://arb.umn.edu/blog/2021/03/30/meet-the-mustard-white-butterfly (5)

< Back History of Minnesota’s Successful Apple Research Breeding Program Apples - one of the joys of autumn! Wandering through apple orchards is a favorite activity for Minnesotans. And at the end of the day, there is the pleasure of eating the apples we have collected in so many different ways. But did you know that the University of Minnesota is one of the leading apple research and breeding programs in the U.S.? Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener When people moving from the east coast settled in Minnesota, they brought with them their apple trees. To their dismay, the trees did not survive the Minnesota winters. This dilemma prompted Horace Greeley, editor of the New York Tribune newspaper, to say, “I would not choose to live in Minnesota because one cannot grow apples there”. Minnesota apple growers rose to the challenge. Peter Gideon, from Excelsior, was the first director of the State Experimental Fruit Breeding Farm. In 1968, he produced “Wealthy.” It is still available, but not easy to find. The incredibly successful apple research program at the University of Minnesota (UMN) is one of the oldest continuous programs in the U.S., beginning in 1878. Samuel Green, the first professor of Horticulture, moved operations from Excelsior to the St. Paul UMN campus. In addition to advancing apple research, Green catalogued the hundreds of apples that amateur growers had been creating across the state since the mid-1800’s. This was one method he used to further a systematic apple breeding research program. Green edited a book, called Apples (available in the public domain, Apples ), that contained a list of apples, written by John S. Harris. Harris was an amateur apple breeder who was also an officer of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society. The book described key characteristics of the apples and the apple trees he found on homesteads and farms across the state. These characteristics included growing challenges, tasting notes, and information about the ancestry of the tree. Some included drawings of the apple. Examples from the book: Coates Seedling Size 2; form, round conical; color, yellowish green with light blush on sun side, skin shows many grayish dots; stem, short; cavity, small; calyx, closed; basin, irregular, shallow, corrugated; flesh, fine, greenish white; flavor, pleasant, sub-acid. Season January to March. Originated in Dakota County, Minnesota. Early Glass Size 7 to 8. form, round, angular flat, slightly ridged; color yellowish green, with light spots showing through the skin; flesh, nearly white, a little coarse and loose; flavor, mild acid, not rich; stem, short and stout in a medium irregular broadly russeted cavity; calyx, half open in a medium deep, ribbed basin; core, open. Tree is erect and vigorous. Season, August. Origin, Russia. The first apple developed in the research program, named “Minnehaha,” was released in 1920. According to the National Fruit Collection, Minnehaha had ‘rather soft, coarse flesh with a subacid, slightly sweet flavor”. Minnehaha apple The fourth apple introduced was “Haralson” in 1922. This apple is still widely available and a favorite of many people to this day. Haralson apple With apple research going back over 100 years, one might wonder why there have only been 30 new varieties. Producing a viable, hardy, and good tasting apple does not happen overnight. The process of developing a new apple can take 20 to 30 years. When the research program began, researchers collected parent trees from the wild and from growers in the Northeast and the Midwest. These were crossed and new trees containing the characteristics of the different trees were grown. The successful new tree seedlings were crossed with other apple trees that had favorable characteristics. This process was repeated until the trees produced were hardy and had good growing characteristics and more importantly, produced apples with good taste, texture, and appearance. The apple research program in Minnesota is only one of three in the U.S. The other two programs are at Cornell University in New York state and Washington State University. Without the intense desire of early Minnesotans to have access to apples and the commitment of early apple breeders, we would not be enjoying Honeycrisp, Zestar®, SweeTango®, and First Kiss® as well as the many older varieties still available like Beacon, Redwell, Prairie Spy, Fireside, Honeygold, and State Fair . This year, 2022, the UMN’s program released Triumph® . Trees are available in limited quantities and we won’t likely see these apples available widely before 2025. Triumph apple If you’d like to learn more, the Minnesota Historical Society has additional information on the history of growing apple trees in an article titled, “Minnesota Apple Trees” at http://collections.mnhs.org . References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/100-years-university-minnesota-apple-breeding https://mnhardy.umn.edu/apples/varieties Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 4, 5), Samuel Green Apples book (2, 3)