< Back Choose Outdoor Furniture Wisely Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener It may still be cold outside but March does officially usher in spring and Minnesotans can finally believe that warmer weather will arrive again. We begin to anticipate spending time out of doors - tending to the garden but also sitting, eating and entertaining outside. So now is the time to assess your outdoor furniture needs and wants. Are you buying outdoor furniture for the first time or do you need to replace your old pieces? There are many different types of outdoor furniture at different price points, so it is worth spending some time understanding how to buy smartly. This article provides an overview of furniture types and materials plus buying tips. It may still be cold outside but March does officially usher in spring and Minnesotans can finally believe that warmer weather will arrive again. We begin to anticipate spending time out of doors - tending to the garden but also sitting, eating and entertaining outside. So now is the time to assess your outdoor furniture needs and wants. Are you buying outdoor furniture for the first time or do you need to replace your old pieces? There are many different types of outdoor furniture at different price points, so it is worth spending some time understanding how to buy smartly. This article provides an overview of furniture types and materials plus buying tips. Consider your Needs When shopping for outdoor furniture, you may fall in love with a table set or lounging chairs on display. But will they fit your outdoor space and your needs? I t’s crucial to measure your outdoor space. This allows you to make good decisions about the size and arrangement of furniture. Also think about how you plan to use your space. Do you need a large dining set for entertaining, a deep-seated sectional for lounging, a small bistro set for morning coffee on a balcony or will children or pets be using the furniture? Let’s look at the categories of furniture: For seating, Adirondack chairs, benches, outdoor sofas, and chaise lounges are all designed for comfort and relaxation. Tables range from small bistro tables to large dining tables. Dining sets will include a table and chairs. Loungers and hammocks - loungers are ideal for sunbathing, while hammocks offer a more relaxed experience. Structural Material is Key The frame is the backbone of any piece of outdoor furniture. For longevity and low maintenance, some woods and aluminum stand out as the best choice, although steel furniture and furniture with a steel frame - like many rattans - are also good choices. Look for solid welds on metal frames; mortise-and-tenon joints in wood furniture. While style is important, prioritizing structure and comfort is key when selecting your furniture. Opt for cushioned seating, ergonomic designs, and weather-resistant materials to ensure that your outdoor space is attractive and functional. Outdoor furniture comes in a number of different materials. Choosing which materials for your furniture is very important. You probably don’t want to spend money on furniture that will fade, crack or rust after one season. You may pay more at the beginning but it is generally more cost effective in the long run to buy outdoor furniture in materials that will last, hopefully several years, with little to no maintenance. That being said, affordability is also a consideration and some cheaper materials are better than others. Let’s examine some common materials. Wood : Wood offers a classic, natural aesthetic. Teak is a popular, durable, and weather-resistant choice. Teak handles freeze-thaw cycles without cracking. A teak dining set may last 30-50 years because its natural oils repel water and resist rot. On the other hand, teak costs more upfront. Cedar and eucalyptus are also good choices at a medium price point. Cedar contains natural oils that resist insects and decay but needs sealing every 2-3 years to prevent splitting. Eucalyptus also provides good weather resistance. Both of these woods will fade to gray without regular maintenance. Pine, oak and other softwoods should be avoided because they absorb moisture more quickly and will rot quickly. Metal : Aluminum is lightweight and rust-resistant. Powder-coated aluminum is designed to hold up in extreme temperatures, its powder-coated seal protecting the aluminum from moisture exposure from melting snow or frost. It also resists scratches and UV damage while staying cooler in direct sunlight. Steel - marine-grade and stainless steel provide superior strength and are durable enough for cold, snowy climates like ours. Steel needs powder coating or paint to prevent rust spots. Wrought iron is sturdy and has a durable classic look. However, it is prone to rust if the coating is chipped or not maintained. It also gets hot in the sun and is heavier to move. Synthetic materials Rattan : Natural or synthetic is a popular choice because it is lightweight yet strong and durable. Synthetic rattan is often rust-proof and weather-resistant. HDPE-high-density polyethylene (recycled plastics) looks similar to wood but is a leader for durability. It resists moisture, insects and UV damage. Further, it doesn’t need painting, sealing or staining and can last 20-30 years. But HDPE can be heavy and less cushioned than other options. Moreover, the initial cost can be high and it can get hot in direct sunlight. Composite materials blend plastic resin with wood fibers – similar to decking materials. Composites resist moisture and do not splinter but heat up more than wood in the sun. They can also retain moisture that expands when frozen, eventually causing surface cracks. Plastic is an affordable and low-maintenance option that is often very weather-resistant. Composite material Adirondack chair Fabric is Not Just About Looks Cushions and fabrics are also important for comfort and appearance. Fabric : While fabric adds color, picking a lounge set or chair made using durable fabric should be the priority. Look for materials that are specially designed for outdoors: fabrics that are UV-resistant, fade-resistant, solution-dyed with heavy-duty stitching and easy to clean. Cheap outdoor fabrics may fade in one season while quality materials may last for years. Water resistant fabrics are essential for fast drying to avoid mold, mildew and stains. “Solution-dyed” fabrics deliver the best value. These fabrics resist fading for years. Acrylic fabrics resist water, mildew and fading, are soft to the touch and clean easily. Olefin also resists water and mildew but is less expensive. Avoid cotton, linen and cotton blends which absorb moisture and support mold growth. Polyester can fade quickly and retain water. Foam : The champion of outdoor seating is foam. Quick-Dry Foam was created especially for outdoor use. Designed to dry fast (2-4 hours) if wet - stopping mold. This type of foam maintains its comfort and shape. water resistant fabric Choosing outdoor furniture can be a complicated business, but the information above can help you choose the right furniture for you and your outdoor space. References https://bluesky-outdoor.com/the-outdoor-edit/10-types-of-patio-furniture-explained/ https://extension.umn.edu/4-h-projects/4-h-home-environment-project https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=outdoor+furniture+how+to+buyhttps:// modernstyle.co.nz/buy-outdoor-furniture/outdoor-furniture-buying-guide-what-to-look-for-before-you-buy/ https://wrmth.ca/fr/blogs/blog/best-materials-for-outdoor-furniture Photo Credit: Rawpixel.com (1), AAA State of Play; All Creative Commons (2), Negative Space; All Creative Commons (3)

< Back Rain Gardens Whether you live in a city or along a lake or river, managing storm water run-off is something to consider in your landscape. Read this article to finds ways to do it. Whether you live in a city or along a lake or river, managing storm water run-off is something to consider in your landscape. Roof tops, roads, driveways and sidewalks create impervious surfaces. These surfaces cannot absorb water. If rainwater and snow melt is not able to be absorbed into the soil, run-off occurs. Run-off can carry sediments and pollutants such as oil, pet waste, debris and nutrients from lawn clippings and fertilizers. These pollutants can then end up in our rivers and lakes. Even municipal storm sewers may lead directly to rivers and lakes. Simply put, a rain garden is a shallow depression filled with selected trees, shrubs, flowering plants and grasses designed to allow rainwater run-off to absorb into the soil. Rain gardens help to filter pollutants, absorb nutrients and allow sediments to settle before entering the ground water. Rain gardens are also useful in controlling erosion by trapping and allowing the water to infiltrate rather than run down a slope. Also, rain gardens may add interest and beauty to a landscape, or add elements to attract butterflies and birds. While rain gardens are a popular trend right now, not all landscapes offer suitable sites. There needs to be enough room to allow water to be absorbed into the soil and not seep into a nearby building or basement. Also, if the soil is heavy clay or already saturated ponding may occur; and ponds have a different purpose in the landscape. Some situations can be amended to allow for proper infiltration. In these cases it is best to consult a specifically trained professional. Dakota Soil Water & Conservation District offers Landscaping for Clean Water workshops in rain garden design and implementation. Site selection, size, shape, choosing proper plants and other materials, and maintenance are all topics covered in the workshops. Demonstration sites have been planted as part of previous workshops to show how attractive and beneficial rain gardens may be.

< Back Garden Mulch and Jumping Worms There are many things to consider when choosing which type of mulch to use. Aesthetics is one consideration but mulch that will help and not hurt your garden soil is another. This article will help you select the mulch that's right for your garden. Garden Mulch and Jumping Worms There are several options for mulch or soil covering in our gardens. Choices can be either organic, which are compostable materials that improve soil fertility, or inorganic film coverings that can be black, red, green or silver colored. Inorganic film mulches are often sold in rolls. Mulch can improve our plants and gardens in the following ways: · Moisture retention/water conservation · Soil temperature control and stabilization · Weed suppression – weed growth is eliminated when light is not available · Soil borne disease prevention · Improved soil fertility through decomposition of organic mulches left on the top of the soil · Minimize soil erosion and compaction from heavy rains and help with water absorption · Improved landscape appearance with clean and neat mulch between plants In the spring, gardeners have to decide what type(s) of mulches to use. The best mulch application time is after the plants are established, four to six inches tall, and the soil has warmed up enough for active root growth. Mulch applied too soon will delay root development. Be sure not to touch the plants with the mulch. Many plants such as tomatoes are planted only after the soil is sufficiently warm. For tomatoes and other warm season transplanted plants, it is best to apply the mulch immediately to avoid soil splash-up/soil borne diseases. If you are using an inorganic film, you can add a couple of layers of newspapers under the film to help with weed suppression. The newspaper is a safe, compostable layer. Depth for most organic mulches is two to three inches to provide the positive results described above without becoming too heavy. Mulch applied too deep can cause a lack of oxygen to roots, can yellow foliage, and could provide a space for small burrowing animals to feed on plant stems. In fact, be sure that the mulch is close but not touching the stems! Favorite organic mulches include straw with newspaper under it to prevent light to seeds, compost with newspaper under it, brown decomposing paper rolls, dried grass clippings, and mulched leaves. Other possible organic mulches include cocoa bean hulls, pine needles, and crushed corn cobs. Gardeners who choose to use straw should be sure to buy tight bales that do not have too many seeds. Some gardeners have also successfully used burlap bags, and they can be reused year after year. Mulched leaves may need to be reconsidered this year and in the near future due to jumping worm concerns. Jumping worms are a type of angleworm, but they change the soil texture to make it look like coffee grounds. As they move and eat, they strip the soil of nutrients and kill plants. They are recognizable, in part, by their whipping action. They live in leaf litter on the top floor of forests and hatch in the soil in late spring. All gardeners in Dakota County need be aware of them and on the lookout for them. For more detailed information about them, please read the University of Minnesota article titled “Jumping Worms” . Another excellent article is “Coping with Jumping Worms” by Karen Randall. The damage jumping worms can do should cause gardeners to reconsider the types of mulches that they add to their gardens. At this time, there are no known ways to easily rid the soil of jumping worms once they are present. Inorganic mulches may be considered as alternatives to organic mulches. They do not break down and add nutrient value to the soils, but they help with several of the mulch attributes described above. Black, red, green and silver plastics provide weed control, splash-up protection, and some temperature control. Red plastic used with tomatoes is said to improve crop harvest by 20% because it reflects growth-enhancing light waves from the sun. It can be used with newspaper under it to control weeds and help conserve water. The down side of inorganic mulches, in addition to initial cost, is that they add to environmental plastics and may or may not be reused in a future year. Inorganic mulches can be found either in garden centers or in seed catalogs. Mulch can be a great addition to your flower or vegetable garden. However, take care in choosing a type that will benefit your garden. Photo credits: Janice Gestner (1, 3, 4), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back December - Enjoying the Winter Garden Dawn Struble As Minnesotans, we learn to appreciate the cycle of northern gardening. The truth is, after putting the garden to bed for the season, the winter respite provides a chance to enjoy the garden in different ways. Read this article for thoughts about how to enjoy your garden in winter. Over the years I’ve often exclaimed, “I wish I lived in zone 7 or 8!” Then I wouldn’t have to say good-bye to my gardens as winter arrives. But over the same years, I’ve come to appreciate the cycle of northern gardening. The truth is, after putting the garden to bed for the season, the winter respite provides a chance to enjoy the garden in different ways. Before the snow flies, make time to move any garden art or sculptures closer to your home’s windows. This will allow you to appreciate the light, shadows and snow accumulations on your art, as well as on standing vegetation, shrubs and tree branches during the snowy months. Now is also the time to make note of plants that may need to be moved, split or removed next spring. You will thank yourself in the spring for writing it down! Watching the snow for animal tracks will help you learn more about the variety and habits of wildlife in your area ( 12 weeks of winter: The scoop on scat | UMN Extension ). You can use the cold weather downtime to read some great gardening books ( Gift Idea: Good Books for Minnesota Gardeners (umn.edu) or Books that created conversation in 2021 | UMN Extension ). And nothing tastes better in the middle of winter than a warm muffin baked from the garden rhubarb you froze last June! ( Using your harvest | UMN Extension ). If you are really missing the dirt under your fingernails, try an indoor herb garden, or make a winter window box or front entry pot. Taking care of your garden tool maintenance is also a valuable task during frigid weather. ( Clean and disinfect gardening tools and containers | UMN Extension ). Get the family involved and combat the dark days by making beautiful winter luminaries. It’s a fun and rewarding project for everyone, and will brighten your yard and garden areas. As you take that winter vacation to warmer destinations, don’t forget about the reciprocal garden admission program for Minnesota Landscape Arboretum members. Reciprocal Admissions Program – American Horticultural Society (ahsgardening.org) . You’ll find the visit sparking your excitement for another season of northern gardening after the well deserved winter break. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Torange.biz (2)

< Back Forcing Flower Bulbs Successfully Need a little color in your home this winter? After all the holiday décor is stored away, forcing flower bulbs indoors is a great way to enjoy flowers, both for their color and fragrance, during the cold winter months. Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Forcing bulbs indoors is quite easy and does not require expensive materials. You will first need to choose some bulbs. Flower bulbs that are easy to force are: Grape Hyacinths, Daffodils, Hyacinths and Paperwhites. These can be found at most garden stores or purchased through catalogs and online. Chilling Prechill bulbs, such as hyacinths and daffodils. To do so, place them in a paper bag and store in the refrigerator for at least 6 weeks. Paperwhites and amaryllis bulbs do not require a chilling period. Forcing bulbs in water One of the easiest ways to force bulbs is in water. Find a vase or jar that will hold your bulb or bulbs in an even layer. Fill the container with water to just touch the base of the bulb(s.) You will quickly see roots forming. Once you see them, keep the water level below the bulb to prevent rotting. Keep in a cool. Dark place until you see an inch or two of leaf growth. Move the bulbs to a bright spot but avoid direct sunlight. Rotate the vase from time to time to keep the plant growing straight. Add water when needed but keep it below the bottom of the bulb. Forcing bulbs on stones If using a larger vase, creating a base of stones can help keep your bulbs above the water level. Some “stone” options are pea gravel, river rock, glass chips and marbles. Set the bulbs on top of the stones then add a few stones around each bulb to anchor them and keep from tipping. Do not cover them. Add water to reach the base of the bulbs. Add water as it evaporates, keeping the level just below the bulb base. Tip for Paperwhites Get your Paperwhites tipsy! Paperwhites tend to get a little floppy, to prevent this, when leaves are 1 to 2 inches tall, pour out the plain water in your vase and replace with a 1:8 alcohol-to-water solution. Do not over do it, too much alcohol can kill the plants. You can use vodka, whiskey or rum. The use of this mixture stunts the plant’s growth, keeping it compact and sturdy. Keep adding until it is done flowering. Follow these tips to enjoy bringing a little early Spring to your home. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1), Gail Maifeld (2)

< Back Virginia Creeper: Groundcover and Climber Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a native vine as ground cover in a shady area? Do you want it to cover a tree, a rock wall or an unsightly outbuilding? As explained in this article, Virginia Creeper may be the plant for you. Not only is it versatile, it has many virtues including a beautiful rosy color in the fall. Few native vines are as versatile as Virginia Creeper ( Parthenocissus quinquefolia ) . Do you want a ground cover in a shady area? It’ll do it. Do you want a vine to cover an unsightly outbuilding? It’s at your service! This native workhorse goes by a number of labels, including Virginia creeper, Victoria creeper, Five-Leaved Ivy, or Five-Finger. Virginia Creeper is a species of flowering vine in the grape family, Vitaceae and native to eastern and central North America. It’s commonly found in our own Minnesota woods. It’s not to be confused with Boston ivy, a Japanese import covering the hallowed halls of the Ivy League and Wrigley Field. The latter is invasive and not nearly as decorative as our own native son. Virginia creeper is easy to grow. It is happy in full sun or deep shade in most any well drained soil. Although it seems to prefer a moist, acidic soil. Given time it can grow as long as 50 feet. As it grows by tendrils with adhesive disks at their ends, Virginia creeper can stick itself to whatever it is growing on. So, it can cover almost anything without benefit of a trellis. If you have a low-value tree in the landscape it is perfectly at home growing up its trunk or limbs. We have it growing up a flood light post to great effect. As mentioned above, it also can act as a fine ground cover on a difficult, steep slope. In addition to its versatility and durability, Parthenocissus quinquefolia is a very showy plant, creating a wonderful cloak of green during the spring and summer which turns a fiery red in the fall. Fall also brings a show of blue-black berries which are inedible for us but an important source of energy for birds beginning their migration southward. Another ecological plus is the rich nectar produced by its modest green-white flowers. It is greatly favored by both bees and hummingbirds. Virginia creeper is usually available in most nurseries. There are a couple of cultivars commonly found in the trade: “Star Showers” which has a variegated foliage and “Yellow Wall” whose foliage turns yellow in the fall rather than the red of the species. Either cultivars or species should perform well in most all of Minnesota. Photo Credits: University of Wisconsin-Madison (1,2)

< Back Holiday Gift Plants Susan Ball, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a gift for that person who has everything? Do you need a gift for someone but the thought of braving the mall makes you light-headed? How about a potted plant? And no, it doesn’t have to be the lovely but ubiquitous poinsettia. Unless you are able to score one of the pink and white or yellow cultivars, or a poinsettia with “double bracts”, give the lovely but pervasive poinsettia a pass. You want a potted plant that says “I picked this out especially for you.’’ The good news: there are a number of holiday plants for you in addition to ways to customize the plant to make it look extra special. Small potted Norfolk Island pines and fragrant rosemary can be given as miniature trees to be enjoyed indoors and decorated for the holidays. For the flower-loving crowd, paper white narcissus, amaryllis bulbs, cyclamen, and Christmas cactus make colorful holiday gifts. You can make your gift plant even more special by taking it out of that plain plastic pot it usually comes in and giving it in a creative container. Picking out your plant First, make sure the plant has healthy foliage and no roots coming out of the pot. If you are buying a flowering plant, pick one that hasn't fully bloomed yet. You don’t want it to look lovely in the store; you want it to look lovely in your recipient’s home. Be sure to include care instructions. If instructions have fallen off, or were never there in the first place, you can put the name of your plant in a search engine and print out the information that pops up. Norfolk Island Pine : These are small trees that are very popular as decorative table-top holiday trees. Norfolk Island pines are not true pines; they are members of a pre-historic family of conifers called Araucariaceae, an incredibly diverse and widespread plant family during the Jurassic and Cretaceous time periods. While this tree can grow quite large in its natural habitat, Norfolk Island pine is slow growing. After about a decade, it may eventually reach 5 to 8 feet tall as a houseplant. Norfolk pines need very bright light and humidity. If the plant is not thriving, it is likely not receiving sufficient light or humidity. Norfolk Island pines don't appreciate being too wet. Instead, fill a saucer with water and rocks or gravel, then place the potted plant on top, making sure the pot is not sitting directly in water. Bingo! You’ve created a little high-humidity microclimate. When you find the spot in your house with the right light for your plant, don't forget to turn the plant every week or so to keep it growing straight and upright. [insert photo 1] Cyclamen: This cool-season plant is often used as an accent indoors. With its dark green to silvery leaves and recurved twisting flowers in shades of red, pink, or white, cyclamen makes a lovely holiday gift. It grows best in a bright location without direct sunlight. When leaves are present, the plant is actively growing. Water whenever the soil feels dry. Do not get water on the crown of the plant. High humidity, especially during winter, is crucial. Keep cyclamen on a tray of water with a layer of pebbles or something else to form a shelf for the cyclamen pot to sit on. Do not let the cyclamen itself sit in the water. Feed it with a low-nitrogen fertilizer every couple of weeks while in full leaf. Avoid drafts as well as hot, dry air (as in air conditioning and heating vents). As the flowers begin to fade, gradually allow the plant to dry out for 2-3 months. It is going dormant and excess water will allow it to rot. During the summer, dormant cyclamen can be kept indoors, in a cool, dark spot with good air circulation or outdoors, in a shady spot. You can repot with fresh soil and a slightly larger pot while the plant is dormant. Begin watering again in September. By then you’ll probably see new growth starting. Make sure you bring the pot back indoors before a frost. There are many wonderful cyclamen hybrids available and since they stay in bloom for a long time, you can choose your plant while the blossoms are open and know exactly what you are getting. Amaryllis: These subtropical bulbs are popular gift plants because they can be forced to produce stunning flowers during the holiday season. Amaryllis is grown in pots indoors throughout the country. The trumpet-shaped blooms grow up to six inches across, and several flowers often appear in succession. Flower color ranges from reds, oranges and pinks to pure white. Still others are spectacularly striped and multi-colored. You can purchase pre-potted bulbs at many garden centers or you can buy bulbs separately and plant them in a pot that you select. Once planted and watered, bulbs should bloom within six or eight weeks. When purchasing bulbs, keep in mind that the larger the bulb, the larger the flowers. Also remember that flower stalks can be top heavy, so make sure the container you select is heavy enough to counter balance the weight or add a layer of gravel to the bottom of the pot to make sure the plant does not tip over when in bloom. Plant the bulb in the center of the pot in well-drained potting media, taking care to press firmly around the bulb so that it is well seated. Encourage early flowering by keeping at least one half to two-thirds of the bulb above the soil line. Water thoroughly and place the pot in a cool, bright spot. No further watering should be necessary until the bulb sprouts. When it does sprout, move the pot to a spot with direct sunlight and keep the soil moist but not over-watered. Fertilizer is not necessary at this point. Once the bloom opens, remove the plant from sunlight to prolong the life of the flowers. Amaryllis, like many other types of lilies, contains various toxic alkaloids and can cause poisoning if consumed. Keep away from pets! If your recipient is a fan of tulips, daffodils, crocus and/or hyacinths, you can also pot up some of these spring bulbs and create a bulb garden for a beautiful holiday gift. Paper white narcissus : These bulbs are great alternatives to the ever-popular amaryllis. Paper whites are also quite easy to force. Unlike most spring-flowering bulbs, paper white narcissus bulbs don't require chilling prior to flowering. This makes these lovely flowers perfect for gardeners with less experience forcing bulbs. Native to the Mediterranean, “paper whites" produce clusters of small white, yellow, or orange flowers (despite their common name). The extremely fragrant flowers are produced on stems that are 12 to 18 inches tall. With a sweet scent that can fill a room, it should be noted that the yellow flowers are particularly fragrant. For other heavily fragrant paper whites, check out 'Erlicheer' and 'Omri,' which produce completely white flowers. 'Galilee' is white and cream, while the flowers of 'Avalanche' have white petals and yellow central cups. 'Constantinople' also has a yellow cup, but produces semi-double white petals, meaning that the flower stamens transform into yet more petals, causing a fuller appearance. When purchasing bulbs, look for ones that are blemish free and firm. This will help you avoid problems related to basal rot. Basal rot causes decay starting at the roots and spreads upwards inside the bulb. On the surface, affected plants become dwarfed and the flowers are abnormal, not what you are looking for, especially in a gift plant. If you are buying your paper whites already planted there is, of course, nothing to do, unless you want to root them (see below). However, if you decide to buy the bulbs and pot them yourself, look for a pot that is 3 to 5 inches deep and has holes in the bottom for drainage. Paper whites need a potting mix that is well draining. The bulbs should be planted with the pointed ends up. When you are planting them, plant enough bulbs in the pot to fill the space without the bulbs touching each other. Make sure the tips of your planted bulbs are exposed. Alternatively, the bulbs can be planted in gravel, pebbles, or marble chips instead of soil. If you decide to do this, fill a pot or bowl up halfway with pebbles and place the bulbs on top of the pebbles. Then add more pebbles until the bulbs are about two-thirds covered. Finally add enough water so that the bottoms of the bulbs are touched by the water, then maintain this water level. Full flowering takes about 4 to 8 weeks after planting. Once planted, place them in a sunny, cool location; when grown in an area that is too warm or has too little light, the leaves and flower stalks will grow too tall and flop over. Too much sun will cause the flowers to deteriorate. Gift them as they are just starting to bloom. Christmas cactus : Thanks to its name, colorful blooms, and low-maintenance reputation, the Christmas cactus is another holiday gift option. Like poinsettias, Christmas cactus start the flowering process when the days become shorter and the nights become cooler. In order to flower, Christmas cactus typically need at least twelve hours of darkness. Keep Christmas cactus away from artificial light during the night from October through December if you want it to bloom during the holiday season. Place in a closet at night or put a box or bag over it to trick it into thinking it is outside and the nights are getting longer. Christmas cactus ( Schlumbergera bridgesii ) grow best in bright, indirect light. Place them within six feet of a south, east or west-facing window. Fertilize every one to two months during the growing season (April to September). Use a well-drained potting medium and only water the plants when the upper inch of soil feels dry. Christmas cactus prefers to be a bit root-bound, so be sure not to choose a pot too large for your plant. Pruning the plants will encourage branching and flowering, but don't prune beyond mid-summer. You can use the trimmings to propagate new plants. Just place cuttings that have two or three jointed sections in well-drained sterile media. Keep them moist and in bright indirect light until roots form and new growth appears. Christmas cactus can be prone to bud drop, so avoid extreme environmental changes. Keep them away from drafts or heat sources (vents, fireplaces, or televisions). Avoid letting the plants get too dry between waterings. The stems and roots can rot if the soil holds too much water, so be sure to use a well-drained potting medium and water only when the potting medium begins to dry out. Rosemary: Rosemary is a pungent, evergreen herb that's great for cooking and very easy to grow. You can use it fresh in meals or dry it for later use. This herb can live out its life in a pot in the kitchen long after the holidays pass if given good light, or planted in the garden. Rosemary is often used to season meats like pork, chicken, and lamb, but it's equally delicious when used on roasted potatoes or in soups or rustic breads. It is also an attractive, drought-tolerant plant that works well in containers and landscape beds. It blooms in winter and spring with small pink, lavender, or blue flowers, depending on the cultivar. It can reach up to 6 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide when planted in the ground but will remain smaller if pruned or planted in containers. Rosemary can also be found for sale pruned as a holiday topiary , shaped as a Christmas tree. Outdoors, rosemary demands a well-drained soil and at least six hours of sun. This plant is originally from the Mediterranean, so it prefers dry conditions and suffers when watered too frequently. It is best to buy rosemary plants from a garden center, since it can be difficult to start rosemary plants from seed or cuttings. How to Make Your Holiday Gift Plant Extra Special Change out the pot. Garden centers, even big box stores, have interesting containers you can buy. Removing your gift plant from the plain plastic container or common tin foil it came in to something more interesting is a statement worth making if you have the time and money. Not only can you select your own pot or container, you can also decorate it yourself. Boring plastic pots can be transformed with spray paint in a more interesting color that compliments your plant or the room where it will be displayed, if you know. Or using a few rounds of painter’s tape in various sizes you can also create interesting stripes, patterns and/or abstract designs in single or multiple colors. Add color to a clay pot by making it a mosaic, decorating it with broken tile, broken glass, dishes or pottery. Just keep in mind that these will make the pot heavier. If you prefer the look of old terra-cotta pots, you can try these tricks: rub a new pot with wood stain to give it an antiqued look or coat a pot with plain yogurt to give it an earthy patina. You can also make your own container, personalizing it for your recipient. Anything can be used - the only thing that limits your container selection is your imagination. Taking common objects and turning them into garden features makes a great personal statement. Everyday items, such as coffee mugs, watering cans, or even boots make great plant containers. Whether buying or making, here are the basics: a good container should be large enough to provide room for soil and roots. You don't want your plant standing in wet soil, so make sure the container you choose has enough drainage holes. You also want your container to be attractive without competing with the plant it holds - the plant should be the star. The only exception to this, in my opinion, is a gift of foliage or a plant of all one color, like a Norfolk pine or rosemary. In those cases, an ornate or highly decorated pot might be the perfect choice. All gift plants bring welcome holiday color and cheer to the homes that receive them. HAPPY HOLIDAYS! References “Choosing a Container for Your Plant”, gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/choosing-a-container.html “Grow Amaryllis Indoors for Stunning Holiday blooms,” https://extension.umn.edu/news/grow-amaryllis-indoors-stunning-holiday-blooms “Growing and Caring for Amaryllis”, https://extension.umn.edu/houseplants/amaryllis “Growing Bulbs Indoors”, https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/growing-bulbs-indoors “Lighting for Indoor Plants and Starting Seeds,” https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lighting-indoor-plants and Pine” “Rosemary,” https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/rosemary.html “Say Will You Be Mine with Flowering Plants”, https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/say-will-you-be-mine-flowering-plants “Tips for growing succulents in containers,” https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/tips-growing-succulents-containers Photo Credit: christmasstockphotos.com (all creative commons) (1), plantsarethestrangestpeople.blogspot.com (all creative commons) (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3), www.flickr.com (all creative commons) (4), shopping.yahoo.com (all creative commons) (5), mx.pinterest.com (all creative commons) (6)

< Back Goldenrod Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Goldenrod (Solidago sp.) – A Much Maligned Masterpiece I just hate to see goldenrod blooming. My eyes and nose itch. I sneeze like crazy…” I’ve often heard this complaint, wrongly hurled at a beautiful and ecologically important group of native plants. The problem is these late-summer blooming beauties unfurl their golden flowers at the same time that the relatively inconspicuous ragweed releases its allergy-causing pollen into the air. It is ragweed pollen, not the flowers of goldenrod, which creates all the misery of fall hay fever season. (Read this month’s “Gardener Beware” article for more on ragweed and hay fever.) Unlike ragweed which is wind-pollinated, goldenrod is dependent upon visiting insects to spread its pollen from plant to plant. Consequently, goldenrod produces abundant, nectar-rich flowerings to attract the pollinators. It thus is a very important source of late-summer and fall nectar for these vital insects, when little else is available, save for the asters. So, if goldenrod is so great why don’t we see it more in gardens than in vacant lots? As you might expect there is some debate as to whether or not goldenrod is a native plant to be cherished or a common weed to be eradicated. When you get right down to it, that’s a pretty subjective decision. One man’s weed is another’s treasure. Most goldenrod is leggy or “weedy”. They can be pretty aggressive spreading by seed and underground rhizomes. They will take over from less robust plants. Therefore, you have to be careful where you plant them. Some folks consider them “inappropriate” for formal garden settings. So, if your home turf is severely suburban, your neighbors might look askance at a front lawn patch of goldenrod. As you’ve probably guessed, my own aesthetics are a bit more on the wild side. I find Solidago sp. a great addition to fall landscape color in our wooded acreage. They are great for tough spots where most other perennials are reluctant to grow. They attract a variety of butterflies and bees in late August and September. Their seed heads are an important source of nutrition for birds during the winter months. Now that you’re ready to get in the goldenrod game, here are a few of my favorite species: Zigzag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis) is very hardy, reaching 1 to 2 feet. And yes, its stem does grow in a zigzag pattern. Bog Goldenrod (Solidago uliginosa) will grow in areas with wet, boggy soil although is prefers good drainage. It gets 3 to 5 feet tall. Old field Goldenrod (Solidago nemoralis) only grows ½ to 2 feet in contrast to its taller cousins. All goldenrods prefer full sun but will soldier through light shade. They have very few natural pests and really don’t require fertilization on all but the poorest soils. A little fertilizer or compost in the spring will boost their height. You should water newly planted goldenrod weekly. In subsequent years they get by with help only in the driest periods of summer. As I said, Solidago can spread. Planting it in a confined bed will help. Some folks suggest digging it up every couple of years before the roots become established. Another suggestion is to deadhead the flowers before they form seed, although this deprives birds of a vital food source in winter and early spring. So if you are up to a little naturalization, Solidago is the thing. The birds and the bees will thank you. References: extension.umn.edu Grow your own birdseed Most gardeners are nature lovers and therefore love their feathered friends. In your selection of plants to grow, have you ever considered growing your own birdseed? https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/solidago-nemoralis/ Photo credit: Native Plant Trust: Go Botany (1)

< Back A Trio of Garden Produce Recipes Joy Johnson, Master Gardener It’s cold, it’s snowy and your garden is sound asleep resting under a blanket of snow and ice. Last summer’s dry, hot weather is a distant memory. However, it was that weather which helped us produce a bumper crop of tomatoes, peppers and apples. Joy Johnson shares 3 yummy recipes that make great use of those saved vegetables. It’s cold, it’s snowy and your garden is sound asleep resting under a blanket of snow and ice. Last summer’s dry, hot weather is a distant memory. However, it was that weather which helped produce a bumper crop of tomatoes, peppers and apples at my house. By early November I had finally finished processing all my fruits and vegetables. My freezer was packed, and I had to turn to canning and drying in order to keep produce over the winter. Now I’m disciplining myself to stop buying so much at the grocery store and make use of what I have on hand. The three recipes here do just that. The salsa verde makes use of the green tomatoes that I picked right before the first hard frost. The chicken stew uses the parsnips and carrots that were harvested, blanched and frozen, and the butterscotch apple muffins make use of the apples and apple sauce that were canned or frozen. Salsa Verde For canning, or you can eat it fresh Ingredients: 5 1/2 cups about 2 pounds peeled, chopped green tomatoes 1 cup chopped onion 1 cup chopped peppers (I had a couple small jalapenos left from the garden that I used along with sweet green peppers 6 cloves garlic, chopped 1/3 cup minced cilantro 2 1/2 teaspoons cumin 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 cup white vinegar 3 tablespoons lime juice Have your hot sterilized jars and lids ready (keep them hot). Chop the tomatoes, onion, peppers, and garlic in a food processor by pulsing, until they are finely chopped. Remove and put into sauce pot you will be using to cook. Add the cumin, paprika, salt, vinegar and lime juice. Bring to a boil and then turn down heat to a simmer for 12 minutes. During the last minute of cooking add the minced cilantro. Ladle hot salsa into hot sterilized jars and leave ½ inch head space. Place sterilized rings and lids on top, then return to boiling water bath for 15 minutes. Remove and let cool. Listen for the pop! Serve with chips, on scrambled eggs, on tacos, enchiladas…. Chicken Stew with Mushrooms and Peppers Makes 4 servings Ingredients : 1 tsp olive oil 1 onion sliced 1 ½ cups sliced mushrooms 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 cups chopped tomatoes fresh or canned 3 cups cubed acorn or butternut squash 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 bay leaves ¼ tsp black pepper ½ cup chopped red or green peppers, fresh or frozen 1 cup sliced carrots, fresh or frozen 1 cup sliced parsnips, fresh or frozen Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Add the onions, mushrooms and check and sauté stirring occasionally until the onions are translucent and the chicken is lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Combine chicken mixture, tomatoes, squash, garlic, bay leaves, black pepper, red/green peppers, carrots and parsnips in a crock pot. Cover and cook on low until the chicken is cooked through and vegies are tender, 6-8 hours. Discard bay leaves before serving. Butterscotch Apple Cupcakes These cup cakes are a sweet treat that complement the stew well and make for a delicious warming winter lunch. Ingredients: 1 cup butter, room temperature 1 c sugar 3 large eggs 1 Tbsp vanilla extract 2 large apples 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt ½ tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 cup unsweetened applesauce Preheat oven to 350. Place 18 muffin cup liners in muffin pans. Beat butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl with an electric mixture until fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time, beat in vanilla, Peel apples and grate into butter mixture, avoiding core. Stir until batter is well blended. Combine flour, baking soda, salt, nutmeg, and cinnamon Add flour mixture to apple mixture, alternating with applesauce, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Spoon batter into prepared cups, filling ¾ bull. Bake 20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan 5 minutes; remove cupcakes from pan and cool completely on wire racks. Pipe or spoon on frosting. Frosting : Combine ¼ cup butter and ½ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring until sugar melts. Bring mixture to a boil. Whisk in 2 T. milk, cream or almond milk and 1 tsp vanilla extract. Remove from heat. Stir in 1 ¾ cups powdered sugar. Spread over cupcakes while still warm. Makes 1 ¼ cups. Photo credits: Joy Johnson (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Planning for a Sunny Garden for all Types of Conditions If you are looking to start growing flowering plants or vegetables in a sunny area of your garden, read Margie Blare’s articles on starting a new garden. Then, take a look at this article which provides lots of ideas for plants in various kinds of sunny gardens. There are a seemingly endless number of plants that will flourish in a sunny garden. This article helps you narrow the choices down to some super stars. Doreen Cordova, Dakota County Master Gardener The twin cities area of Minnesota, now classified as USDA Hardiness Zone 5a, offers a unique opportunity for gardeners to create vibrant and thriving sunny gardens, whether you have a large space, small space, container gardens or a balcony garden. With at least 6-8 hours of full sun daily, you can cultivate a diverse array of flowers, vegetables, herbs, and small shrubs that not only add beauty but also provide ecological benefits. The shift from Zone 4b to 5a indicates milder winters, allowing for a broader range of plants to flourish in the region. To ensure your sunny garden remains healthy and vibrant, remember to provide adequate water and fertilization. Most plants require about an inch of water weekly, and using slow-release fertilizers can enhance growth without overfeeding. Mulching around plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds, while row covers can protect against early frosts and pests. By selecting the right plants and following these care tips, you can create a thriving sunny garden in the Twin Cities that brings joy and beauty throughout the growing season. This article will suggest sun-loving perennials listed in different categories. You may want to look for those plants that appear in several categories as superstars. Perennials for Sunny Gardens Natives Native plants are an excellent choice for sunny Minnesota gardens, offering both beauty and ecological benefits. Here just a few of the many native plants that thrive in a sunny Minnesota garden: Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a showstopper, attracting pollinators with its bold purple petals. Wild Bergamot ( Monarda fistulosa), which produces lavender flowers beloved by bees and butterflies. Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta): for those seeking a touch of golden sunshine, offer long-lasting blooms and support local wildlife consider planting or Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is drought-tolerant and supports pollinators. Agastache foeniculum (Anise Hyssop) : This plant offers blue, tubular flowers from mid-June to September. It is deer resistant and prefers well-drained soil. Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed) : Known for its bright orange or yellow flowers, this plant is a vital food source for monarch caterpillars. It grows well in loose soil and full sun. Wild Bergamot Grasses To add structure and year-round interest to your sunny garden, consider incorporating native grasses. Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a stunning choice, with its bluish-green leaves turning a captivating reddish-brown in fall. For taller options, Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) and Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) are excellent choices, providing vertical interest and winter habitat for birds. These grasses not only thrive in full sun but also require minimal maintenance, making them perfect for busy gardeners. Little Bluestem Unique Pollinators Here are some unique plants that thrive in full sun in our area. These flowers not only add beauty to your garden but also provide ecological benefits by attracting pollinators and supporting local wildlife: Geum (ex., Red Dragon ): This perennial features low-mounding leaves with numerous small flowers that bloom from early to late summer. It is a great choice for adding vibrant color to your garden. Nepeta (ex., Purrsian Blue) : Known for its compact mounding habit and periwinkle blue flowers, this plant is deer and rabbit resistant. It blooms from May to September and attracts bees and butterflies. Liatris spicata (Blazing Star/Gay Feather) : This plant features purple, spike-like clusters that bloom in full sun conditions. It is deer resistant and thrives in rich, loamy soil. Low Maintenance Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) : one member of the Rudbeckia family, these plants are drought-resistant and deer-resistant, with bright yellow flowers that attract butterflies and birds. They require minimal care and can grow in well-drained soil. Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea) : these natives are drought-tolerant once established and attract a variety of pollinators. They bloom from mid-summer to early fall and require minimal maintenance. Sedum : This succulent comes in various forms and is highly drought-tolerant. It blooms in late summer and is excellent for low-maintenance gardens. Yarrow : With its flat clusters of flowers, yarrow attracts bees and butterflies. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) : in addition to its other attributes, Butterfly Weed is easy to care for. Butterfly Weed Compact Flowering Plants These plants are ideal for adding color and vibrancy to small full sun gardens without overwhelming the space: Sedum Sunsparkler Series : These sedums are low-mounding, growing only 6-8 inches tall and 10-12 inches wide. They offer beautiful foliage and bright flowerheads, making them perfect for small gardens. Nepeta Purrsian Blue : This compact mounding plant produces periwinkle blue flowers from May to September. Yellow Alyssum : Known as basket-of-gold, this low-growing perennial forms a mat and blooms with bright yellow flowers in the spring. It grows 6-12 inches tall with an 18-inch spread. Yarrow : While not as compact as some others, yarrow can be pruned to maintain a smaller size. It blooms from June to September and is easy to care for. Geum Red Dragon : this colorful blooming plant is easy to grow. Deer-resistant Plants Yarrow (Achillea) : Known for its finely textured foliage with an herbal scent that repels deer, yarrow blooms in yellow, pink, white, or peach. It is hardy in zones 3-8 and prefers full sun. Ornamental Onion (Allium) : Deer avoid this plant due to its onion flavor. Varieties like 'Serendipity' offer playful purple flowers that bloom from mid to late summer. It thrives in zones 4-8 and full sun to part sun. Anise Hyssop (Agastache) : This plant's fragrant leaves and soft peach flowers make it unappealing to deer. Catmint (Nepeta) : Deer dislike this fuzzy, fragrant foliage of catmint. It blooms with bright lavender-purple flowers starting in early summer and thrives in zones 3-8 with full sun. Coneflower (Echinacea) : While not completely deer-proof, coneflowers are often left alone due to their spiny cones. They bloom most of the summer with full to part sun. Russian Sage (Perovskia) : Its clean, herbal scent makes it highly deer-resistant. It blooms with bright amethyst-blue flowers and thrives in full sun. Deer-resistant Groundcovers Creeping Phlox : This groundcover blooms with vibrant purple flowers in early spring and prefers well-drained soil in full sun. It is relatively deer-resistant due to its dense growth and less palatable foliage. Sedum : Known for its succulent leaves and stems, sedum is highly drought-tolerant and deer-resistant. It comes in various forms and colors, making it suitable for rock gardens and full sun conditions. Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pennsylvanica) : While not entirely deer-proof, this sedge is less appealing to deer due to its grass-like foliage. It thrives in full sun to part shade and is native to Minnesota. Thyme : Some varieties of thyme, like creeping thyme, can be used as a groundcover and are deer-resistant. They prefer well-drained soil and full sun. Creeping Phlox These groundcovers are not only deer-resistant but also low-maintenance, making them ideal for sunny areas. However, it's important to note that while these plants are less appealing to deer, they may still be nibbled on if other food sources are scarce. Vegetables and Herbs for Sunny Gardens Vegetable gardens in the twin cities can flourish with a variety of crops. Most vegetable and herbs need a lot of sun. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants should be started indoors and transplanted after the last frost, while lettuce, spinach, beets, carrots, and peas can be directly sown into the garden in early spring. For herbs, basil, chives, dill, and mint are popular choices that thrive in sunny conditions and require minimal care. Lavender , though typically hardy in Zone 5, can also survive in Zone 4 with proper protection, adding a fragrant and beautiful element to your garden. Compact vegetables that thrive in container gardens and smaller gardens Cherry Tomatoes : These are ideal for container gardens due to their compact size and high yield. They require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Peppers : Both bell and hot peppers grow well in containers. They are relatively compact and produce a high yield. Leaf Lettuce and Spinach : These can thrive in partial shade but also do well in full sun containers. They are easy to grow and can be harvested continuously. Radishes : Quick-growing and compact, radishes can be grown in shallow containers and require minimal space. Happy Sunny Gardening https://www.fox9.com/news/minnesotas-plant-hardiness-zones-have-changed https://www.mprnews.org/story/2023/11/21/milder-winters-changing-usda-plant-hardiness-zones-in-minnesota https://www.coppercreeklandscapes.com/new-blog/hardy-summer-perennials-minnesota https://www.leafgreengardens.com/minnesota-gardening-zones-by-usda/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-herbs https://mnhardy.umn.edu/shrubs https://sargentsgardens.com/top-10-sun-perennials/ https://www.gurneys.com/collections/vegetables-zone5 https://www.motherearthgardener.com/organic-gardening/herb-gardens-in-the-north-ze0z1810zcoo/ https://www.epicgardening.com/minnesota-perennials/ https://www.bachmans.com/information/usda-zone-map https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/17xkzir/2023_usda_plant_hardiness_map_of_minnesota/ https://extension.umn.edu/trees-and-shrubs/trees-and-shrubs-minnesota-landscapes https://bonnieplants.com/blogs/garden-ideas-inspiration/full-sun-garden-plants https://anokamastergardeners.org/gardening-articles/hardy-herbs https://almanacplanting.com/collections/shrubs-and-bushes-zone-5 https://www.myhomepark.com/blog/12-minnesota-native-plants-for-your-home-landscapes https://ponicslife.com/minnesota-vegetable-planting-calendar-a-quick-and-easy-guide/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/gardening-shade https://tristarplants.com/collections/shrubs-for-zone-5 https://northerngardener.org/5-perennials-that-act-like-shrubs/ https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/planting-vegetable-garden https://www.reddit.com/r/Minnesota_Gardening/comments/1bc3q70/what_perennial_herbs_do_people_have/ Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1,4), open.lib.umn.edu (2), marylandbiodiversity.com (3)

< Back Lop & Lose Sally McNamara and Janet Poore, Master Gardeners While March is the ideal time to prune most trees and shrubs in your garden; note that it is NOT the time to prune those that bloom in the spring. Pruning your spring blooming trees and shrubs may kill blooms that are forming. These plants should be pruned right after they bloom in the spring. Read this article for valuable information about pruning some of your most beautiful spring blooming shrubs. Blossoms that is. Patience pays for those spring blooming shrubs and small trees gracing your landscape. While March is the perfect time to prune almost everything else it is several months early for those spring flowering ones. Ideally, the plants listed below are best shaped RIGHT AFTER blooming, before next year’s flower buds are set. Even waiting a month or two after flowering to trim these plants can mean losing next year’s blooms. LILACS Lilacs benefit by pruning AFTER blooming. Lilacs can be pruned very severely for renovation with the understanding that it may take several seasons of growth for a good flower show. Since lilacs live so long they often grow out of their appropriate space in the landscape with dead and unsightly sections. Often shade has been created over them over the years which makes them spindly and the flowers sparse. Pruning helps here but lilacs and shade are not a good mix. Unfortunately, lilacs will regrow from roots so removing them means repeat pruning of the new growth or digging out the roots. FORSYTHIA The bright yellow flowers of forsythia are so welcome in early spring that patience here will definitely be rewarded. This plant tends to be rather rangy in habit and benefits from regular trimming to keep it attractive in all seasons. AZALEA & RHODODENDRON While most specimens really don’t need pruning because they tend to keep a dense, organized structure, some might need restraining, balancing or thinning in the inner areas for more light and air. In northern climates, azaleas tend to create larger, more dense and flower covered specimens if they are planted with more sun rather than more shade as in the south. HYDRANGEA Hydrangeas are of two major categories: flowering on new wood and flowering on old, or last year’s wood. The key to pruning is to know which you have. Ones that flower on new wood can be pruned very aggressively and still produce a summer crop of vegetation and flowers. Ones that flower on last year’s wood should NOT be pruned early but do look better if old blossoms are snipped or snapped off early in the growing season. New flowers will be produced of course but the dead ones will sully the look. MAGNOLIAS Fortunately, Magnolia flower buds are very obvious. They practically scream: “don’t cut me!” Magnolias in a sunny location don’t need much pruning generally but they often do need removal of suckers around the trunk. Mock Orange, Virburnum, Chokeberry, Serviceberry, Ninebark, Weigela, Spirea and Fothergilla are other spring bloomers which, if they need any pruning which most do not, should be pruned after flowering. Photo Credit: Gurneys (1), Michigan Bulb Co. (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3,5) & Julie Harris (4)

< Back Plants You Wish You’d Never Bought Marjory Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Good gardening includes doing some research when planning your garden! Sometimes a plant that you bought can turn into a monster that makes you despair of ever getting rid of it. Learn from the mistakes that this author and other Master Gardeners have made when choosing plants for their gardens. Good gardening includes doing some research when planning your garden! Sometimes a plant that looked so appealing in the garden center or catalog, can turn into a monster that makes you despair of ever getting rid of it. Learn from the mistakes that this author and other Master Gardeners have made when choosing plants for their gardens. non-native Honeysuckle Before - When it seemed like a good idea Garlic Chives in bloom, May 1998 Garlic Chives “What a beautiful flower, it looks like lace! Look at all the bees buzzing around it! The leaves are like chives! I can put it in salads!” I was looking at a small neat clump of plant, about 15” high. We had just moved onto a piece of land of about an acre. It came with many plants, and I had brought more from our old house. Yellow Archangel Yellow Archangel We have a wooded area containing poplars and spruce trees, so when I looked through the catalogs, I looked for shade-tolerant plants. I saw a variegated ground cover that had lovely yellow flowers that was supposed to do well in the shade. I bought ten of those. Siberian Squill Siberian Squill I wanted a water feature to go through the woods, but after looking into the cost and the time required for maintenance, I decided that I would make a “pond and stream” of plants. What was blue like water? I found a small bulb that had a delightful blue flower and planted it in my “pond and stream” – Siberian Squill. After – when a good idea became a problem Garlic Chives Garden Chives exploded! - April 2025 I have found out that certain, seemingly well-behaved plants can reach a “critical mass,” explode over your flower beds and then escape to places you never wanted them. Garlic chives have exploded all along the road-bank, which is made of limestone. This makes it very difficult to dig out the bulbs, which must be removed to eradicate the plant. Using an herbicide would kill the shrubs and other desirable plants. On the upside, they do stabilize the road-side. Yellow Archangel Lamiastrum Yellow Archangel exploded! Yellow Archangel has escaped into the woods. It is non-native but but has one redeeming quality – it suppresses Buckthorn – a genuine invasive plant that out competes native species. Siberian Squill Siberian Squill exploded! Siberian Squill has taken over the “pond and stream.” The blue flowers have been sparse and the foliage gets larger every year. This year they have defeated the Lamium “White Nancy,” that fills the pond and stream throughout the rest of the year. Siberian Squill propagates by self-seeding. Here you can see that the squill has escaped into the woods. Not looking forward to digging those out. This plant has the potential to become an invasive plant given its rapid spread and ability to grow almost anywhere. Other Master Gardeners Weigh in I asked some fellow Master Gardeners to reveal the plants that they have regretted buying and here is their list: Plants several Master Gardeners have reason to regret and why # of mentions Aggressive On Invasive or Eradicate List Self -seeds Thorny Got too big Garlic Chives xxx x x Horseradish xx Tea Roses x Rugosa roses xx x x False Spirea x x x Flame Willow x x x Morning Glories xxxxx x Giant Rudbeckia x Obedient Plant x Mugo Pine x Trumpet Vine x Amaranth x x x Yarrow (common) xx x Lemon Balm x x Mint xx x Spoon Tomatoes x Vinca Vine xx x x Giant Anisse Hyssop x Oregano xx x Lily-of-the-valley xxxxx x Creeping Buttercup x x Creeping Bellflower xxx x Ostrich Fern x x Hops Vine x Chinese Lantern x x Creeping Charlie x x Siberian Squill x x Snow-on-the-Mountain x x Barberry x x x Winged Burning Bush x x Japanese Honeysuckle (non-native) x x Garlic Mustard x x The lesson is – do your research before you buy a plant for your garden. You can start with our mistakes! Photo credits: Marjorie Blare (1-8)