< Back Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana): A survivor for All Seasons Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener Eastern Red Cedar is a beautiful and tenacious native tree that grows vigorously through most of the eastern United States including the lower half of Minnesota. It is a towering and long-lived tree and is an important food source for birds and mammals. Read this article to learn more about this important native tree. Sometimes, something starts growing somewhere and something inside you says “Let it be.” That’s how I came to gain the acquaintance of Eastern Red Cedar as it popped up beside a boulder on the slope of our west lawn. Rather than pull it out, I watched it struggle, overcome and become the beautiful tree that now graces the west side of our home. Like so many natives, it is a very tenacious fellow and grows vigorously through most of the eastern United States including the lower half of Minnesota. So, it does well through Zone 4. Mature red cedar The tree is known variously as Virginia juniper, eastern juniper or red juniper. Although a slow grower, red cedar can reach as high as 60 feet - although in poor soils it may remain no more than a bush. It assumes a pyramidal or cylindrical shape with reddish brown bark and green needle like leaves. It is a dioecious species (boy and girl trees) with the male pollinating and the female forming dark purple berry-like seed cones. These berries form an important food source for many birds such as cedar waxwings, turkeys and bluebirds during the winter months. A number of small mammals such as rabbits, foxes, raccoons and coyotes also feed off red cedar berries. The tree is a long lived with a several hundred-year life-span, if undisturbed. red cedar berries Red cedar is a pioneer species and will be seen early on in fire ravaged areas. But, a cautionary note - owing to its adaptability and perseverance, it can be invasive and has radically changed the ecology of some grasslands. Also, it acts as alternate host for cedar-apple rust, a potentially destructive fungus for apple trees. Consequently, you might want to keep red cedar away from nearby apple orchards. There are many distinct cultivars of Juniperus virginiana, which you might expect given its vast native range. A recent book by Laurence Hatch* does a masterful job of differentiating and describing them. Whatever cultivar you choose, you will be treated to a tough, faithful coniferous companion for many years. *Hatch, L., Cultivars of Woody Plants: Juniperus virginiana and scopulorum, A cultivar.org Garden Monograph, Cary, NC, 2023. Photo Credits: Farmartin, Wikipedia (1), Humoyun Mehridinov, Wikipedia (2)

< Back Beware of Periwinkle Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Periwinkle is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant that was once touted as a great ground cover. It grows very well in most conditions and have pretty green leaves and purple flowers. But now Periwinkle is on some invasive species lists. If you have Periwinkle in your yard, you probably know why. Read this article to understand the problems Periwinkle can pose in your yard and how you can manage them. Periwinkle, also known as Vinca Minor, Creeping Myrtle, Running Myrtle, and Lesser Periwinkle, is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant that was once touted as a great ground cover. But now Periwinkle is listed on the Farm Services Agency USDA Invasive plant list and the invasive species-extension.org list. I was one of those individuals who bought a 3-inch pot of periwinkle and planted it in my wooded backyard. And yes, it grew very well and looked beautiful with green vegetation and purple flowers. It contained the weeds, therefore, maintenance free. What more could I ask for? And then . . . I noticed it crowded out my lilies of the valley, hostas, and ferns. I have since battled the plant trying to contain it within a small area. This article will introduce you to Periwinkle and discuss how to manage it. Common periwinkle was first introduced to the U.S. from Europe in the 1700s as an ornamental. The green stems are slender but woody in appearance. The green leaves are glossy and about an inch long. Some of the varieties of periwinkle have variegated leaf color. The flowers are generally purple to blue. The flowers resemble a phlox flower with 5 lobes and it blooms in May and June. It grows in sun, part-shade, and shady areas from dry to most soil. In other words, it adapts well to many surroundings especially shady areas. It is low growing at approximately 4-8 inches in height but its vine can be as long as 6.6 feet But Periwinkle can take over wooded areas, forests, bluffs, and old homesites due to its dense matting. Because of this, Periwinkle is listed as invasive in other parts of the U.S., including Wisconsin - but not yet Minnesota. As a homeowner what can you do about the Periwinkle problem? There are several action steps you can take: Don’t buy/acquire it If you have it on your property, try and contain or eradicate it. Educate others. Now that you know it is an invasive plant elsewhere, you can tell others about it. How do you get rid of it? There are several manual ways to get rid of periwinkle: Hand pull it - but be sure to wear gloves! You will need to pull it fairly close to the ground to make sure the vines/roots don’t break off, Rake it. Raking the dense mats in large areas will get some of the vines and roots up. Dig it up. Use a shovel or pitchfork and remove excess soil from the roots. Be careful to get all the roots. Mow it or string trim it. You can mow it and then dig it up. Mowing can help contain it. Avoid rotary tillers because any root left in the soil will just grow back. Smother it with cardboard and mulch. Cut, pull up, or rake up as much of the vinca first. Then add a layer of cardboard and 3 inches of mulch on top of the cardboard to smother the plant. You may have to apply multiple times to fully eliminate. If you must use an herbicide, be aware that the plant leaves are waxy, and therefore, herbicides may not work as effectively or may need a second application. Trimming with a string trimmer, and then applying the herbicide may work better to reach the stems of the plant. Periwinkle can appear to be an attractive option if you are looking for a ground cover for tough areas. But, as this article shows, you may want to avoid this plant unless you are up for managing its massive spreading habit. Sources: https://invasive-species.extension.org/vinca-minor-common-periwinkle/ https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/periwinkle https://www.fsa.usda.gov/sites/default/files/documents/appendixe.pdf https://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=461054 Photo credits: www.uniprot.org (all creative commons) 1, www.forestryimages.org (all creative commons) 2

< Back Black Spruce (Picea mariana): A Northwoods Native Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains, you don’t need to go to the Rhine country in Germany to see a cathedral of natural majesty. This month, Jim profiles the mighty and beautiful Black Spruce (pices mariana). Black Spruce is native to Minnesota and can grow to 50-100 feet under the right environmental conditions. But other varieties have been developed for landscape use. Read on to learn more about this magnificent conifer. Last spring we toured the Rhine country of Germany. The majestic twin spires of the Cathedral of Cologne couldn’t help but remind me of the North Country of Minnesota. In that cathedral of the Northwoods, the spires of Pices mariana (black spruce) soar skyward in quiet majesty. They are native to the northern Midwest and grow well throughout Central and Upper Minnesota. They require full sun and are quite sensitive to shading. Black Spruce is a slow-growing conifer and prefers moist environments. It is often found in bogs and other wetlands. a stand of Black Spruce Black Spruce vary in height depending on the environment, ranging from 15 to 50 feet in height, although some can push to 100 feet. The leaves are needle-like and seed cones are small, ½ to 1 ½ inches long, dark purple ripening to reddish brown. They are produced in dense clusters in the upper crown, opening at maturity but persisting for several years. needles and young cones The roots of black spruce are shallow and spread widely. Consequently, the tree is susceptible to wind-throw. Perhaps the most spectacular example was the 1999 July 4 th Boundary Waters Blowdown or derecho. Aerial view of the 1999 Blowdown A number of cultivars have been developed for landscape use. The cultivar P. mariana ‘Nana’ is a dwarf form that has gained in popularity. If you are looking for one of these stately trees, they are hard to find in nurseries but can readily be grown from seed. They do transplant well. So, with a bit of patience, you can inexpensively generate a handsome stand of black spruce. Photo Credits: Daniel Case, Wikipedia (1,2), Quetico Superior Wilderness News (3)

< Back The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees By Douglas W. Tallamy, Timber Press, Portland, OR, 2021 Oak trees. Who doesn’t love this bold and majestic tree species in our landscape. In addition to their beauty, oak trees contribute mightily to the health of our environment. To learn more about the mighty oaks, read Douglas Tallamy’s excellent book, ”The Nature of Oaks.” Reviewed by Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Did you know that the seeds we religiously put out for the birds each winter provide scant nourishment for most species? A few, such as doves and finches, are granivores and do just fine. Most birds, however, are insectivores and depend on this supplementation even in winter. So where do all our avian friends get “three hots” in the cold months? Surprisingly, a substantial portion of their winter diet comes from caterpillar stages tucked into the bark of many tree species native to North America. Of these, the oaks are the most efficient in providing larval feed for our feathered friends. Professor Douglas Tallamy provides an in-depth and fascinating account of the massive niche occupied by the various species of oak in the ecology of North America. Tallamy records the activities of the oaks and their many visitors from month to month throughout the year. In addition to being a winter-feeding station for birds, oaks serve numerous insect species as a refuge and feeding reservoir allowing them to complete their varied life cycles and integrate into the complex web of life in the North American woods. Their extensive root system stabilizes the soil and effectively combats erosion. In short, oaks support more life forms and interactions than any other tree species in our northern hemisphere. These giants form a keystone upon which so much of forest life depends. In addition to demonstrating the vital role played by oaks in our ecology, the author provides a useful guide as to which species of oak do best in the varying environments of the US as well as helpful hints in planting and nurturing these invaluable species.

< Back Wild Blue Violet (Viola sororia): One Name, Many Faces Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner For lovers of that special harbinger of springtime, the wild violet, there are many fascinating and rewarding varieties to choose from and enjoy. In this article, Jim Lakin, describes various varieties and explores why you may want to add this native perennial to your woodland garden. I long ago realized I do not have the patience to be a taxonomist. The wild blue violet is a case in point. The battle raged among botanists for years as to whether or not to split a number of similar plants into separate species or to combine them into one. The “lumpers” finally won out over the “splitters” and today Viola sororia is the moniker for some quite different plants. We’ll discuss that in a bit. Wild blue violet as a native perennial found in almost all of Eastern North America including the entire Midwest. It is a woodland plant, loving humus-rich soils and tolerating a high amount of shade. Most varieties are pretty easy to grow in any rich soil that is moist in the spring when they flower. If the soil becomes dry in summer the plant may go dormant. A number of varieties freely self-sow although many propagate by rhizomes. Indeed, some varieties can be aggressive growers even moving into grass lawns. Nonetheless, they can be a wonderful addition to other woodland flowers in a shade garden. Wild blue violet can be an important ecological niche plant, hosting several fritillary butterflies as well as attracting a number of specialist bees and other pollinators. Happily, the fritillary butterfly which the plant hosts can keep the more invasive violet varieties in check by feeding off them during the butterfly’s larval stage. Mind though that this larval caterpillar emerges from its egg in the fall and overwinters in the surrounding leaf-litter. If you rake up the leaves in your wildflower garden in the fall, you will destroy the caterpillars before they can trim back the violets by feeding in the spring and subsequently emerge as fritillary butterflies. Viola sororia is variable in its form and behavior. Flowers are usually royal blue but the color can vary from light blue to white on one end of the spectrum to a deep navy on the other. Among the recognized strains is the woolly blue violet. This fellow is covered by short woolly hairs upon its stem, producing springtime flowers of a deep blue-violet. He is found in woodland flood plains and in upland oak-hickory woods. In the garden he is usually well behaved with limited self-sowing. Viola bloom color can vary Butterfly violet or dooryard violet is one of the largest and most aggressive strains of Viola sororia. It is a larger plant (one foot) and self-seeds freely. It can shadow out smaller wildflowers and even invade lawns. If you adopt a live-and-let-live attitude, however, the Fritillary butterfly caterpillars usually will keep the dooryard violet in check and have a good meal in the bargain. And you may have some spectacular butterfly watching later in the summer. Finally, there is a variety known as the Confederate violet. It forms a blue to grey flower with speckles. There are a couple of commercially marketed strains: “Freckles” with speckled blue flowers and “Rosie” a rosy-white form. For lovers of that special harbinger of springtime, the wild violet, there are many fascinating and rewarding varieties to choose from and enjoy. Photo credits: North Carolina State Extension (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Pruning Hydrangeas and Clematis Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Ever wonder when is the best time to prune hydrangeas and clematis? This article will help clear up the pruning mystery for these beautiful blooming plants. Ever wonder when is the best time to prune hydrangeas and clematis? In this article I’ll help clear up the pruning mystery for these beautiful blooming plants. HYDRANGEAS When to prune hydrangeas depends on when it blooms. If the hydrangea blooms in late summer on new growth, pruning should take place in late winter or early spring before the shrub begins active growth. Some of the hydrangeas in this category include Limelight, Burgundy Lace and classic snowball types. Most other hydrangeas that bloom on old wood (growth from the previous year) should be pruned in summer after they’re done blooming. Pruning too soon increases the risk of cutting off dormant buds. Oakleaf, Big Leaf, Nikko Blue and other pink and blue flowering hydrangeas bloom from the previous year’s buds. If you want to maintain their size or shape, prune in summer before August. Ever-blooming hydrangeas such as Endless Summer also bloom on old and new wood and should also be pruned the same way. CLEMATIS Clematis pruning made simple. There are three groups of clematis. Group I is in the Red Category (red means stop) and blooms in early spring set on old wood from the previous year’s wood and doesn’t die back in winter. Pruning should be done sparingly. This category includes Pink Perfection, Spooneri and Pink Swing. Group II is in the Yellow Category (yellow means go slow) and grows on old wood in late spring/early summer, and on new wood in late summer or fall. This group should be given a light trim in March before it begins blooming. Remove dead wood and cut back remaining stems to 6-8”. This category includes Horn of Plenty, Patricia Ann Fretwell and Beautiful Bride. Group III is in the green category (green means go) and blooms on new wood in summer and dies off to the ground over winter. In March, prune all stems back to a strong set of buds 12” from the ground. This category includes Summer Snow, Prince William and Mississippi River. Stems of live and dead wood look alike. The leafy growth from the bud indicates a live vine. Always prune from the top down. Work down each vine until you find a live bud or growth and then stop once you find it. You can cut off all of last season’s growth to the ground; however, this results in a shorter plant, a few less flowers, and will bloom a little later. Happy pruning!! Below are a few great sites to visit for further information: University of Maryland Extension Guide to Pruning Hydrangeas | University of Maryland Extension ( umd.edu) Wayside Gardens Tips for Pruning Clematis l Wayside Gardens Spring Valley Nurseries Clematis Pruning Guide | Easy Clematis Care | Spring Hill Nurseries ( springhillnursery.com) Photo credits: Pat Cox (1), University of Maryland Extension (2), Kansas State Johnson County Research & Extension (3, 4)

< Back Foxglove Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) can be a charming addition to your landscape. In this article you will learn about its interesting history and growing tips. In the year 1785 the English physician William Withering published An Account of the Foxglove, describing the medicinal features of extracts of this native perennial in the treatment of dropsy. That was a term for the swelling associated with severe congestive heart failure. This was the first account of its use in the medical profession, yet herbalists had been using foxglove tea to treat heart failure for centuries before. The only drawback of this “miracle cure” was that too much of a good thing could quickly dispatch the tea imbiber. The pharmacologically active agent in foxglove is digitalis, a drug still used today to treat heart failure and disturbances of heart rhythm. Digitalis, like foxglove has a narrow therapeutic range. Too much can cause serious side effects, including death. If, however, you are not prone to munching on your garden perennials, you will find that Digitalis purpurea is a charming addition to your landscape. Although originally native to most of Northern Europe, it has naturalized to the Upper Midwest where it grows as an herbaceous biennial or short-lived perennial. That is to say, a given plant usually lives two to three years but plentifully reseeds. Thus, if a garden area is left undisturbed, germination should provide an ongoing colony of Foxglove. In the first year, the plant forms a tight rosette on the ground. The second year a 3 to 6 foot stem develops with spirally arranged 3 x 2 inch or larger leaves. The flowers are arranged in a showy, terminal, elongated cluster. Each flower is tubular hanging downward. The “finger like” flower shape is reflected in the name Digitalis . These flowers are typically purple, but some plants, especially cultivars, of which there are many, may be pink, rose, yellow, or white. Foxglove tends to bloom in late spring to early summer with occasional shows later in the season. Digitalis purpurea prefers partial sunlight to deep shade, being a forest understory dweller. It frequently pops up in areas where the soil has been recently disturbed. Some accounts maintain that skin contact with foxglove can be harmful, so it is best to wear gloves when handling it. Although it can be grown from seed, this can be a little tricky and germination rates are not all that high. It’s probably a better bet to purchase a potted plant in the spring and enjoy the spectacular show that Foxglove provides. And remember, no nibbling the plants! Photo credits: www.abebooks.com (1), publc domain (2)

< Back Do All Bees Sting? Lisa Olson, Master Gardener On one hand, a gardener’s tiny friend, the bee, is usually a docile doer of good, buzzing around from plant to plant, pollinating to provide a bountiful harvest in the future. On the other hand, many fear the small insect with the mighty sting. But do all bees sting? If you are curious, click on the link to learn more about our little friend, the bee. Bumblebee Do all bees sting? The short answer is no. But some bees do sting, and they also get blamed for more than their fair share. Many people mistakenly call all stinging insects “bees.” Hornets and wasps are typically more aggressive than their rounder, fuzzier relative, the bee. Bees are pretty tolerant of humans unless they feel provoked or threatened. They will sting to protect their nest or hive, but they are generally not a threat to people if they are left alone. In fact, when bees are busy flying from flower to flower collecting nectar and pollen, you can safely observe them without fear of being stung. However, since about 80 percent of bee species nest in the ground, it is not surprising that many bee stings occur when someone unknowingly steps on a nest. Ground Nest Certain bees are not capable of stinging. Only female bees have a stinger which is a modified egg laying apparatus. Male bees are not equipped with that part and therefore are unable to sting. Not every sting is equal among all female bees. While the social bumblebee and honeybee sting can be quite painful, the sting of most solitary native bees is similar to a pinprick. Of the nearly 20,000 known bee species in the world, about 400 of them live in Minnesota. Only about 2% of those are honeybees and bumblebees, including the state bee of Minnesota, the rusty patched bumblebee. The other 98% are mostly solitary bees like the mason and leafcutter bees. Rusty Patched Bumblebee While some bees are not capable of stinging at all, the female bumblebee, along with its relatives the yellow jacket and paper wasp, can sting multiple times. Its stinger is smooth so that it can remove it and re-inject it multiple times. The honeybee, on the other hand, has a barbed stinger. Once its stinger penetrates human skin, it becomes lodged and cannot be removed. When it flies away, the stinger stays behind, and the honeybee will die shortly afterward from the hole left in its abdomen. If that occurs, the sting victim should immediately scratch out the stinger with a fingernail rather than grasping it with two fingers to prevent squeezing more venom into the wound. A very small portion of the population is allergic to bee or wasp venom. While a person is more likely to die from being struck by lightning than stung by a bee, an average of 62 people die each year in the United States from a bee, wasp, or hornet sting according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Since you can’t just hang around male bees, in order to avoid being stung, you can take the following precautions: Stay calm. Don’t swat at bees. Just remain calm and slowly walk away. Wear shoes outside. Stepping on a nest is the most common way to get stung. Plant flowers away from your doors. Reduce the risk of a negative encounter by planting pollinator habitat away from high traffic areas. Beekeepers wear white for a reason. If you don’t look or smell like a brightly colored flower, bees are less likely to bother you. Just watch, don’t touch. If you leave them alone, they will leave you alone. Bees are excellent neighbors and extremely beneficial to us. Pollinators are responsible for about one third of the food we eat. The best thing we can do, as with all wildlife, is to respect it by keeping our distance. That way we don't have to worry whether it is a stinging bee or not. And last of all, by providing more pollinator friendly habitat, we can ensure a healthy, happy bee population for the future. https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/wasps-and-bees#reactions-to-stings-1465111 https://mphysicians.org/news/2022/07/20/buzz-sting-ow-dealing-wasp-or-bee-stings-11076 https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/volumes/68/wr/mm6829a5.htm https://www.pollinator.org/pollinator.org/assets/generalFiles/NAPPC.NoFear.brochFINAL.pdf https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/pollinator-nests#:~:text=About%2080%20percent%20of%20bee,over%20the%20nests%20of%20others . https://beelab.umn.edu/Native-Bee/diversity https://bwsr.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/2020-03/Planting%20for%20Pollinators%20Design%20Guide%20with%20logos.pdf Photo Credit: University of Minnesota (1,2,3,4)

< Back Tomatoes: What to do Now for Luscious Tomatoes This Summer Tomatoes are one of the most home-grown crop; probably because there is nothing like that big bite or slice of that juicy, delicious red ball. But many enthusiastic home gardeners find themselves frustrated or disappointed in their tomato crop. This article explains gardening practices that you can adopt to increase the chances of producing happy, healthy tomato plants in your yard. Michelle Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener Many people eagerly await that first bite of homegrown tomatoes every summer. And that first succulent bite is achieved by the work you do now, early in the summer. First, it is not too late to plant tomatoes, but at this point, you will need to purchase plants if you did not start your own. Whether you choose an heirloom or a modern variety (often bred to decrease susceptibility to disease and other unfavorable traits) is a personal preference. One approach to choosing might be to get a variety you have grown before and a variety new to you. Some other characteristics you may want to consider relate to the disease resistance of the tomato plant. Plants marked with “F, FF, FFF” are resistant to fusarium diseases, while a “V” indicates resistance to Verticillium Wilt. A plant marked with “VF” is resistant to fusarium and verticillium wilts. A plant labeled with “EB” is resistant to Early Blight. If you choose a tomato that does not indicate that it has been developed with resistance to different tomato diseases, you’ll want to implement some good, basic gardening practices to decrease the risk of losing your tomato crop. Choose a tomato with a sturdy stem that is at least a pencil width. Make sure there are no spotted leaves as that may be an indicator of disease. Leaves should be spaced closely together. There are two main types of tomatoes; determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are bushy and generally do not need pruning, staking, or trellising. The top, also called terminal point, ends with flowers and fruit. They grow to about 24 – 30 inches tall and produce fruits within a 4 to 6-week period. They may be best for container grown tomatoes. Most tomato plants are Indeterminate and they are vining. They do need support to keep their leaves and tomatoes off the ground, allow for air flow, and reduce the risk of diseases. The terminal point keeps growing as the plant grows. Tomatoes grow along the branches, and they will produce fruit until it gets too cold. Stake or trellis plants immediately when you plant them. Good tomato gardening practices start with ensuring good soil. You want rich loamy soil that drains well. If you don’t know what kind of soil, you can do a soil test from the University of Minnesota and add amendments such as fertilizer or other missing nutrients. The next critical step is to not plant your tomatoes in the same place every year. You need to rotate them to different areas in your garden, if at all possible. This helps decrease the threat of diseases that remain in the soil. It is recommended to wait three to four years before planting tomatoes again in that spot. Make sure you space your tomatoes a sufficient distance apart. You can find that information on the seed package or the plant tag. Dig a hole deep enough to place the whole container part of the plant and remove lower leaves and branches so they aren’t touching the soil. If you have a slightly crooked plant, you can actually dig the hole even deeper so the above ground part is the straight part. The tomato will actually grow roots from the stem that is underground. Consistent watering is critical to prevent “blossom end rot” (where the tomato has a black bottom), as is an adequate amount of calcium. You can find products in the store that you may want to periodically add throughout the season. When you water your tomatoes, make sure to water at the base of the plant and not overhead. This reduces disease risk on the leaves and prevents water splashing from the soil onto the plant, which is another source of tomato diseases. You will want to water deeply to help promote deep rooted plants. Generally, one inch a week is recommended but you may need to water more frequently if it is very hot and dry, or your tomato is in a container. Sandy soils will require more frequent watering, too. Despite your best efforts, you may still find diseases impacting your tomato plants and your tomatoes. Early blight, tomato viruses, bacterial spot, and late blight are some of the diseases that plague many Minnesota tomato growers due to Minnesota’s climate. To learn more about each of these diseases and how you can recognize them on your tomato plants, you can learn more here: Tomato Diseases . In addition to tomato diseases, you will need to watch for insects that may impact your tomato harvest. Insects to be aware of include: cutworms, flea beetles, Colorado potato beetle, aphids, sap beetles, and tomato hornworms (for more information, start here: Insects and Tomato Plants ) Finally, some common problems you may experience and may have little ability to prevent are: blossom end rot, growth cracks (fruit grows too quickly), catfacing (many causes), leaf roll, sunscald (tomato fruit gets too much sun), and yellow shoulders (top never ripens). You can find more information on these disorders here: Tomato disorders Tomatoes are not hard to grow but do require some specific gardening practices to ensure you can get a lot of fruit that are healthy and tasty. And most gardeners will agree that they are worth all the effort! Reference: University of Minnesota Extension Gardening Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens Photo credits: UMN Extension (1-5), University of Wisconsin Madison Extension (6)

< Back Autumn Leaves Brynne Eisele, Master Gardener This page introduces books and fun activities that will help your child to understand why leaves change color and learn that leaves have some things in common with humans. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiQrG88OcmY Summer Green to Autumn Gold: Uncovering Leaves’ Hidden Colors , by Mia Posada, answers readers’ (ages 5-10) questions about why leaves change colors. It gives the science behind the many different colors of leaves and includes beautiful watercolor and collage art on every page. The author and illustrator reside in Golden Valley, MN! Fletcher and the Falling Leaves , by Julia Rawlinson, lets young readers (ages 1-5) follow Fletcher the fox cub as he discovers his favorite tree seems to be sick. Each day more leaves turn brown and fall to the ground. Fletcher is very worried for the tree until he finds a wonderful surprise on the first day of winter. Do For elementary aged children try these two very simple experiments that demonstrate the importance of trees and their leaves to our daily lives. It will also help them visualize the concept that plants and trees are alive just like us! 1. Do Leaves Breathe? Materials: Freshly picked leaf that is still green Bowl of water large enough to fit the leaf Rock or something to weigh down the leaf Instructions: Ask the child to observe the leaf. What do they see? Do they hear the leaf breathing? Fill the bowl with water and submerge the leaf in water using the rock to make sure the leaf is fully submerged. Place the bowl in a sunny location. Wait for a few hours then check on the leaf. You should see small bubbles forming on the leaf and edges of the bowl Explanation: Your child is observing part of the process of photosynthesis where oxygen is being expelled from the leaf. While the leaf doesn’t use lungs to breath as we do, it does similarly take in and release air. As humans we breathe in the oxygen expelled in our daily lives. Adapted from science-u.org 2. Do Leaves Sweat? Materials: Clear zip lock bag String or twist tie to secure the bag tightly Branch of leaves in the sun Instructions: Ask the child to observe the leaf. How does the leaf feel? Can they see the leaf sweating? Fit the plastic bag on the end of a branch which has several green leaves on it. Make sure your branch is in the sunlight for a few hours. Secure the bag tightly with the string or twist tie. One corner of the bag should be pointing down toward the ground so that the water can collect into one location. After a few hours, check the bag. You should see water pooled in the corner of the bag. Explanation: Your child is observing plant transpiration. This process can be explained to a child by comparing it to a human sweating and expelling water to cool down. Plant transpiration is crucial to our daily lives as it releases water into our atmosphere to be evaporated. Adapted from Kids Fun Science, Youtube channel Fall Leaf Scavenger Hunt For younger children around ages 2-5 set up a fall leaf scavenger hunt. Depending on the age, the child may need greater parental assistance. See below for some suggestions but feel free to add your own categories! Find a yellow leaf (or one with yellow on it) Find a green leaf (or one with green on it) Find a red leaf (or one with red on it) Find a brown leaf (or one with brown on it) Find a leaf with a whole in it Find a leaf with three points Find a leaf that has an oval shape Find a small leaf Find a big leaf

< Back Learning to Grow African Leafy Vegetables in Minnesota The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. This article identifies some native African vegetables and discusses an important plant breeding program started by the University of Minnesota and partnering with community members. BJ Hansell, Dakota County Master Gardener and Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener The number of African-born refugees and immigrants and their offspring living in Minnesota has grown significantly since the 1990s. With them has come vegetables native to Africa. Many of these vegetables are popular items at farmers markets. However, Minnesota’s short growing season and limited access to seeds has made it challenging to grow some of these vegetables here. To address this problem, University of Minnesota students, led by Rex Bernardo, director of the Plant Breeding Center at the University, formed a Community Plant Breeding Team and partnered with community members and Hennepin County Master Gardeners to attempt to develop vegetable varieties that are better adapted to our climate. With input from the African and Asian communities, the group focused on four native African species: amaranth, spider wisp, jute mallow and Ethiopian mustard . These species have not received significant breeding attention and seeds of these species are not available commercially in the United States. Jute mallow or Molokhi (Xoexhoeua olitorious) originated in Egypt. It is filled with nutrients and has been used in traditional medicine. Spider wisp , or chinsaga (Cleome gynandra) is also nutrient-rich and is found in dishes in Kenya and parts of Asia. It is drought tolerant and self-seeding. Amaranth , or mchicha, emboga, or quintoniles. Its’ leaves and seeds are eaten throughout the world, generally in dry climates. Ethiopian mustard (Brassica carinata), also known as Gomenzer, Yehabesha Gomen and Hamli Adri, originated mainly in the Ethiopian highlands. It has been eaten as a leafy vegetable and oilseed crop since ancient times. It is a candidate for use as a clean energy source. The project necessitated engagement and input from community members as well as the expertise of specialists in agronomy and horticulture. This article highlights how the group went about engaging with the community to produce adaptations of their target vegetables. The article, titled, “ Lessons from a student-let breeding effort on leafy African vegetables in Minnesota ” also provides detailed information about the native African vegetables studied. The group hopes to release their first cultivar of a leafy African vegetable in the next few years. It hopes that its work can serve as a model for other groups who might wish to expand to the Asian and Latin American communities. If you are interested in exploring other native African plants that can be grown in Minnesota, this article lists several plants, some of which will be familiar to you, including: Amaranth (see above), Okra, African Eggplant, Yams, Cassava, Taro Leaves, Waterleaf, Ethiopian Kale, Bitter Leaf, African Cabbage, Cowpeas, African Nightshade, Jute Leaves (see above), African Cucumber and Hibiscus Plant. For more information about growing native African vegetables, refer to the sources below and others at the University of Minnesota Extension website . Sources: Crop Science/Volume 65, Issue 3, “Lessons from a student-led breeding effort on leafy African vegetables in Minnesota, May 14, 2025 University of Minnesota Extension, “Exploring African Plants, October 18, 2023 University of Minnesota Extension, “Growing Staple Vegetables from Around the World in Minnesota,” 2024 Ethiopian Mustard (Brassica carinata A. Braun) as an Alternative Energy Source and Sustainable crop; https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/12/18/7492 University of Minnesota Extension; https://mglobal.umn.edu/immigrants-minnesota-often-crave-taste-home-u-m-researchers-breeding-african-crops-minnesota https://www.fifteen.net/vegetables/african/ Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2), HDPI https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/12/18/7492 (3), Wikipedia (4)

< Back Groundnut (Apios americana): A Nutty Sweet Treat This month, Master Gardener Jim Lakin continues his series on native vines by profiling the American Groundnut. This vine not only produces interesting flowers but also both edible seeds and tubers. Historically, the groundnut has been a significant part of the Native American and European pioneer diet. Read this article to learn more about how you can grow this interesting vine and enjoy its seeds and tubers. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener One thing plants and animals have in common; they don’t like to be eaten. Plants, in consequence, have synthesized a staggering number of toxins, emetics, thorns and brambles to discourage their ingestion. Thus, what a delight to encounter an edible native perennial vine— groundnut . Both the tubers and the seeds are edible but should be cooked first. Some nasty enzymes need to be denatured by the heat. As you might expect, groundnut has been a significant part of the Native American diet over the centuries. Likewise, it was an important component of the diet of the early European pioneers. Inexplicably, however its popularity has declined as agribusiness has developed more profitable crops to drop into the commercial maw. groundnut tubers and flowers American groundnut is known alternately as hopniss, Indian potato, hodoimo, America hodoimo, cinnamon vine, potato bean or vine potato. It is hardy from Zone 4 through 9, so it will do well in southern and central Minnesota. Indeed, American groundnut grows wild from Eastern Canada down south to Florida and west to Colorado. American groundnut is the North American equivalent to the South American potato. However, it is a perennial flowering vine that sends out numerous tubers. Although the entire plant is edible, the tubers are prized, even today, by foragers. They have a nutty, slightly sweet flavor. They are cooked pretty much like potatoes. About a 30-minute boil, peeled or unpeeled, usually does the trick. photo shows the young groundnut vine Although rarely grown commercially in the United States, there is quite a bit of cultivation in northern Japan. Apparently, it is similar to a native Japanese Apios yet more amenable to commercial production. Growing American groundnut is fairly straightforward. You can plant tubers, similar to planting potatoes. In the spring, place them about two inches below the surface and about two feet apart. Water heavily. In about two weeks you should see sprouting. Provide support for the vigorously growing vine. As American groundnut is a member of the pea family (Fabaceae), it will fix nitrogen and replenish the soil. You should be patient, however. The initial crop of tubers is usually fairly scant and takes two years for the plant to firmly establish itself. However, your patience will be amply rewarded that second year with a bumper crop of nutty sweet Apios americana ! Here’s a helpful reference for more information on cultivation: https://www.gardenmyths.com/how-to-grow-harvest-and-eat-american-groundnuts/ Photo Credits: J. St. John, University of Missouri (1), https://ar.inspired pencil.com/pictures-2023/groundnut-plant (2)