< Back Sunburned plants This article provides advice about how to recognize sunburned plants (sunscald), how to prevent it and what to do if your plants suffer from it. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Many plants in your vegetable garden can get sunburned! For instance, vegetables and fruit can burn if the canopy of leaves over them is removed or if they are placed outside without being hardened off. House plants will suffer if moved from a shady room to a sunnier room. Sunscald is a synonym of sunburned. How to recognize sunburn/scald Look for: sunken bleached spots on fruits and vegetables; brown areas on pome fruits such as apples; or whitish, yellowish or browned foliage. Some things to do to prevent sunburn or sunscald 1) Harden-off plants before moving them to a sunnier location. Over the course of about 5-10 days, let them have longer and longer exposure to the sun (and wind). This goes for houseplants moving to a sunnier room or outside, as well as seedlings and plants grown in a greenhouse. 2) Plant out on an overcast day, if possible. 3) Water thoroughly before and after planting out. 4) In the case of house plants, research ideal light conditions and then observe the new location for several days in advance of moving them. 5) Water in the morning, and water at the root instead of the foliage. Water on leaves can magnify the sun to cause damage. 6) Be careful to not remove foliage shading immature fruit/vegetables when harvesting; this will let the sun reach areas that aren’t used to it. 7) Research whether your fruit/vegetable will continue ripening after picking and possibly pick them a little early, then promptly get them into the shade or a cooler place. 8) Try a different variety if you notice lots of sunscald this year. 9) Mulch freshly planted starts to conserve moisture, and facilitate root growth. 10) Do not fertilize right away; a high nitrogen fertilizer will direct energy into the leaves before the roots can settle in. 11) Kaolin- based products such as Surround® can reduce the chances of sunburn. Read the label for proper application rates and personal protective equipment. The label for Surround WP® includes language about reducing sunburn damage, but Surround CF® doesn’t. This product covers the surface of the fruit with clay. The clay will reflect the sunlight and reduce the sunlight that reaches the fruit. Kaolin should be applied to the point of near-drip coverage. Be careful to leave enough foliage free of the kaolin for photosynthesis. Check label for organic certification. Read more about the use of Kaolin from Purdue University here: https://vegcropshotline.org/article/sunburn-on-vegetables/ 12) Prune carefully to leave enough foliage to shade the fruit/vegetable. Prune diseased foliage promptly. 13) Water deeply. 14) Sheer curtains in the window can help house plants deal with too much light. 15) Use a shade cloth or bamboo screen to throw some shade during the hottest part of the day, and growing season. Shade cloth differs in the amount of shade that is thrown. A 70% cloth will let 30% of the light through. There is no one, right, answer to which percentage your garden needs. I used an orange snow fence last summer. Some things you can do after a plant shows sunburn/sunscald 1) Move plants (if possible) to a less exposed site. 2) Cut fertilizer rates to half strength until new leaf growth shows. 3) For tomatoes, try to keep temperatures below 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Tomatoes are native to alpine regions in Central and South America. The hottest days of Minnesota’s growing season can be hard on tomatoes. Try a shade cloth or bamboo screen to keep the tomatoes cooler during the hottest parts of the day. 4) Remove damaged fruit or leaves so that the plant can use its energy to grow more fruits, vegetables or leaves. 5) Be patient. Planning to prevent sunburn/scald before it can happen will lead to a happy productive garden! Read more from UMN here: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/gardens-get-sunburned-too Read more from Michigan State here: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/hot_and_sunny_days_promote_sunscald_in_peppers_and_other_vegetables Photo credits: Marjory Blare (1, 3), Dreamtime.com (2), istockphoto.com (4)

< Back A Plain Vanilla Murder and Hemlock Now that your outside garden has been put to bed for the winter, take some time to relax and read some entertaining plant fiction. As reviewer Gail Maifeld explains, reading the mysteries - “A Plain Vanilla Murder” and “Hemlock” by Susan Wittig Albert, is not only fun, it’s educational. Written by Susan Wittig Albert Reviewed by Gail Maifeld The garden is put to bed so put your feet up with two delicious mysteries by Susan Wittig Albert: A Plain Vanilla Murder and Hemlock. Both mysteries incorporate the titled herbs as the premise for the mystery plot and are the two latest books in The China Bayles mystery series. A Plain Vanilla Murder takes place in and around the fictious town of Pecan Springs, Texas. China and Ruby Cox are presenting a workshop entitled Plain Vanilla. China’s workshops are popular but someone at this workshop has a deadly motive. China is puzzled when a dear friend’s daughter disappears, a university professor is found murdered, and a fragile, rare orchid is stolen from the professor’s lab. Much is at stake: plant patent, an orchid that is extinct in the wild, & the life of an innocent girl. Learn about the most taken for granted herb vanilla. Did you know it only grows wild in Chili because that is where the unique insect lives that has the physiology to pollinate vanilla? Hemlock takes China Bayles to the mountains of North Carolina where an old & rare book is missing from the gardening book collection of the Hemlock House Library. This rare book, A Curious Herbal, was written and illustrated in the 1730’s. Hemlock is a compelling mix of mystery and herb lore. A member of the carrot family, hemlock looks like Queen Anne’s Lace and is lethal to humans and animals. The addition of a haunted house, a ghost, the local Hemlock Society, and a shooting, all create an absorbing novel. Learn about Vanilla and Hemlock while enjoying a mysterious romp that includes red herrings and suspicious characters. Photo Credit: Gail Mailfeld (1,2)

< Back Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Looking for a small tree to add to your landscape? Consider the Pagoda Dogwood, it grows quickly and offers delicious berries for the birds in late summer. Read more about this attractive tree here. January is a time for planning. Where to put the annuals can be figured out on the fly. Perennial forbs take a bit of thought but you can dig most of them up if you want to move them next year. However, tree placement should be very carefully considered. What looks good now will be there years from now and may not look so good. Short of a chainsaw massacre, you’ll be stuck with the ill-considered tree. Then, of course, you have to consider size. Do you really want a 90-foot white oak in your 12 x 16 courtyard? Fortunately, if you are looking for a small tree, you have many excellent choices, one of which is the Pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) or alternate-leaved dogwood. This beauty is a common understory tree which grows rapidly as a youngster, adding a new tier of branches each season. Pagoda dogwood is native to northeastern North America and is found in central and southern Minnesota, Iowa and all the way down to the Ozarks. It does best in well-drained soils and will have difficulty in clay or compacted soils. In the wild it is found in moist woodlands so it is best to plant it where it is protected from the hot afternoon sun. Observing this caveat, it will grow in full sun if there is sufficient moisture, but it will do better in part to near-full shade. One of its most compelling features is the berries produced in late summer, greatly loved by the birds. For good fruit-set, however two separate trees are needed. After a time, some trunks will suddenly die and turn orange. Quick rejuvenation is possible by pruning away the dead trunk. Select a vigorous new shoot from the sprouts that usually emerge quickly. Pagoda dogwood’s horizontal tiers of branches give the tree its name and render it a charming ornamental at the corner of the house or the edger of a wooded landscape. It is great as a bird garden plant. These lovely branches are festooned with clusters of creamy white blooms in the late spring. The resulting berries are bluish black and ripen in late summer, providing welcome nourishment to a variety of songbirds. Come fall, the leaves will turn a striking yellow to burgundy. The popularity of this showy ornamental has been enhanced by the development of a number of great cultivars. You might check your local nursery this spring for such attractive varieties as “Pistachio”, “French Vanilla”, “Gold Bullion” or “Big Chocolate Chip”. Whichever you choose, keep it well-watered and mulched that first year and you’ll soon have a great addition to your landscape! Photo credits: Morton Arboretum (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2)

< Back Have a Sunny Garden? Try These Perennials Kristina Valle, Dakota County Master Gardener Do you have an area of your garden that receives 6 to 8 hours of sun each day? If so, you will want to plant “sun perennials” in that space. Perennials that prefer a sunny location should thrive in your yard, assuming, of course, that you provide them with healthy soil, ample water, and some tender loving care. Read this article for profiles of “sun perennials” for every season between the frost dates. Calling all sun worshipers! Since I have a north facing house position, my front yard is mostly shady. Most of the plant color in my yard is found in the back yard, where the southern light creates the perfect environment for my sun-seeking perennials to blossom. In this article I will feature my top 3 full-sun-perennials for each season, that will ensure a constant show of color in your garden from last to first frost. The plants featured below perform best in full sun, which is defined as 6+ hours of direct sunlight a day. Spring These early bloomers pop up in our gardens as winter gives way to spring, seeking out the sun that has already begun to warm the soil. Yarrow This is the most eager plant in my garden and the fern-like leaves are already pushing through the soil. I especially love this hard-working plant for its ability to choke out weeds which it succeeded in doing last year in a problem area of my garden. The plant comes in a variety of colors and heights that are sure to suit any color scheme or garden size. It is important to note, however, that it can be aggressive so plan carefully. Bloom Duration : early spring to late fall. Fernleaf Yarrow Creeping Phlox My rock wall signals the first colors of spring as the matted green leaves appear, giving way to bright, florescent shades of pink, purple, and white flowers. This is a great ground cover and can be tucked in between rocks in an alpine garden. You can get a second bloom later in the growing season by deadheading any spent blooms. Bloom duration : 3-4 weeks Salvia Perennial Salvia is a great addition to the garden if you want to support our early pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Salvia is a drought tolerant choice that holds steady through our dry spells. It needs at least 8+ hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. Depending on the variety, this plant can range in size from 1’ to 5’, giving you multiple options for garden placement. To encourage multiple bloom cycles, trim off the spent flowers, or if it is under blooming, you can cut the plant back mid-summer to encourage more blooms. Bloom duration : 6-8 weeks in spring and then after a haircut, into late summer/fall. Summer By the time summer rolls around, the heat is reaching new heights and as we have seen in the past few years, rolling drought puts a lot of strain on our plants. Luckily, these sun-loving perennials are built to withstand some weather-related strain. Common Milkweed Beautiful and fragrant purple/pink poms top off THE host plant for the Monarch butterfly. Even planting one milkweed plant in your yard will help support future generations of this at-risk butterfly. Once hatched, the young caterpillars will feast on the leaves so be cautious using chemicals around this plant. Common Milkweed is best placed in the center or the back of your garden due to its height, which averages around 3’-5.’ The seeds pods should be collected at the end of the season to prevent reseeding. Bloom duration : June – September. Hardy Geranium - G. Rozanne If you are looking for a sprawling, prolific bloomer, this is your plant. The violet-blue petals persist through the heat of summer and into fall, attracting bees and hummingbirds. This low maintenance plant really pulls its weight in the garden, but if it starts to lag, you can prune it back mid-season to rejuvenate it. Stunning along a border, or in the garden where you can create a cascading effect. Blooming Duration : Early Summer – Late fall. Coneflower (Echinacea) A garden staple, the coneflower supports pollinators in spring and summer, and provides seeds to songbirds (like Goldfinch) throughout the fall and winter months. When choosing a coneflower, opt for a less showy bloom with a single blossom to attract more pollinators. Think of the center of the flower as a landing pad. If it is obstructed by a complex petal structure, pollinators may find the flower less attractive and move on in search of flowers easier to access. To ensure a long bloom season, deadhead the spent flowers to promote a second flush of blooms. Blooming Duration : July – September. Autumn Cooler temperatures are followed by fading flowers and the promise of garden cleanup before the snow flies. Luckily, the color show does not have to end. These plants will round out the year with their warm, vivid colors. Aster Aside from its striking color amid a dulling floral background, this plant plays a critical role in continuing the nourishment of late season pollinators. Great for filling out a space in the garden that is abundant in spring and summer bloomers, to keep the color rolling into fall. You can cut these down to the ground once the first frost arrives or wait until spring to allow birds to enjoy the seeds through winter. Blooming Duration : August – October Sedum As a member of the stonecrop family, Autumn Joy Sedum is unique. The taller varieties, which can grow up to 24”, have large succulent leaves and tight clusters of flowers that deepen to rose or salmon as the temperatures cool in the fall. This variety is perfect in a garden where spring and summer blooming flowers have faded. Creeping sedum is used as a ground cover and is well suited for rocky landscapes with dry soil conditions where it is harder to grow other types of plants. Blooming Duration : Late summer into fall. Autumn Joy Stonecrop Hardy Mums A true sign of fall, this beautiful plant comes in a multitude of colors and is prized for its late season blooms. It is important to note that there are two distinct types of mums: the “hardy mum” and the “florist mum.” “Florist mums” are typically found at the end of the season at grocery or hardware stores. They are not adapted to our winters and are mainly a short-lived decorative plant. A “hardy mum” may need to be sourced out of a catalogue or special ordered from your nursery and should be planted in the spring to encourage root establishment through the year. Once established, you will be rewarded with a reliable display of color into fall each year. Bloom Duration : Late summer – Late fall. It is important to remember that while there are many plants that are versatile in their light requirements, with the ability to exist in a range of sun exposures, plants do have a best sun exposure which should be adhered to as much as possible to ensure that your plant is in a space where it can reach its full potential. These sun perennials need full sun to perform their best and to delight you year after year. Photo Credit: Pixabay.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Mike Myers, Flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3), Stockbridge School of Agriculture ( UMass.edu ) (4), Penn State Extension; extension.psu.edu (5), Horticulture and Home Pest News; iastate.edu (6), UW Arboretum ( wisc.edu ) (7), PNW Plants ( wsu.edu ) (8), Illinois Extension (UIUC) (9)

< Back Square Foot Gardening Do you want to grow vegetables in your garden but you don’t have a lot of space or you only have one sunny spot or your soil isn’t conducive to growing or you just want a few vegetables for your family? Square foot gardening may be your answer. This approach will save time, work, space, and water. And, you will produce some delicious vegetables for your family. Read this article for more information about why square foot gardening may be for you and how to get started. Mickey Scullard, Dakota County Master Gardener With a short growing season, gardeners want high yields of fresh produce from their vegetable gardens, yet many people have limited space suitable for growing. “Square Foot Gardening” is a method of gardening with the underlying premise of producing a greater variety of vegetables in a small space. It is also intended to make gardening more accessible to a greater number of people. According to the Square Foot Gardening Foundation website , this method is, “estimated to cost 50% less, use 20% less space, 10% of the water, and 2% of the work”. They state there will be almost no weeds and you save time and effort because you don’t have to dig, rototill, or use heavy equipment, and fertilizers aren’t needed. It almost sounds too good to be true! However, many people have used this method successfully for 25 years. In the U.S., our standard gardening approach is to plant in rows. This is how many of us have done it for generations, passed down through our families. We have developed tools that support this approach for watering and weeding between the rows, using mulch papers or rototillers small enough for a row. We have row markers, seed tapes, and many other gardening supplies that support the row gardening approach. According to Bartholomew, this approach makes gardening harder than it needs to be with much of the growing space given over to aisles between the plants, resulting in a need to constantly weed those non-growing areas. He also argues that planting in rows results in overplanting. He uses the example of planting cabbages, suggesting few people find it useful to have 30 cabbage heads ripening at the same time. Square foot gardening suggests a different approach that carefully spaces plants to efficiently use space, manage the size of the harvest, and allow for successive planting, e.g., growing multiple crops in one growing season. Instead of sowing seeds and then having to thin the plants, this approach suggests placing the seeds at the distance you’d thin the plants. For example, if the seed packet says thin to 6 inches between plants, you can just space your seeds out that distance in all directions within the square. You can put a ‘pinch’ of seeds in each planting site to increase the chances of germination and instead of thinning, snip out the unneeded plants. This lessens the chance of disturbing or weaking the roots of the plant you are keeping. Most square foot gardens are 4 feet x 4 feet raised beds. They can be other sizes; however, you will want to make sure you can reach all areas of the bed without stepping on the soil. Stepping on soil compacts it, which makes it more difficult for plants to grow. The soil in the raised bed should be a mix of compost, vermiculite, and peat moss. The location of the square foot garden is important, with sufficient sunlight important and access to a water source. Bartholomew suggests placing it near the house so you always have a visual on your growing plants. Within the 4 x 4 space (or whatever size bed being used), a grid of 1 foot x 1 foot squares are laid to mark out each plot. In a 4 x 4 bed, you will have 16 squares in which to plant. The number of plants or seeds you grow in each square is dependent on the full size of the vegetable or flower. For example, in the 1 ft x 1 ft square, you could grow one tomato, or four heads of lettuce, or eight bunches of swiss chard, or sixteen carrots, or thirty-two radishes. Once you have harvested the vegetable, a new crop can be planted. Since one of the other premises of Square Foot Gardening is reducing the need for fertilizer, Bartholomew says you only need to add a shovel of compost prior to each new planting. Square foot gardening will meet the needs of many gardeners. However, those wanting to produce large harvests for canning, freezing, and other methods of preserving, may not find they get the quantities they want using this method. For those wanting a manageable amount of produce, this may be a great way to help limit the amount grown, although if you grow a zucchini plant, you will probably still need to sneak around after dark ‘bestowing’ your bounty on your neighbors’ doorsteps. References: Square Foot Gardening Foundation: https://squarefootgardening.org/ All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew Square Foot Gardening. Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia Square foot gardening: a formula for successful intensive gardening. Michigan State University Extension Photo credits: Master Gardener Program of North Virginia (1), Michigan State Extension (2)

< Back The Food Explorer (The True Adventures of the Globe-Trotting Botanist Who Transformed What America Eats By Daniel Stone Do you ever wonder where the tasty vegetables, fruits and spices we consume come from? No, I am not talking about the grocery store, or your backyard garden. I am talking about where in the world they originated and how they got to North America. Enjoy this review of “The Food Explorer” by Daniel Stone. And I am certain that you will be tempted to click on your Amazon app and purchase the book! Review by Linda Holt, Master Gardener Did you ever wonder where your banana came from? Or how about that juicy navel orange you crave every morning not only for its sweetness but also for the healthy dose of Vitamin C it provides? Avocados, surely, they are a California staple, along with the almonds we enjoy in everything from the true nut to the almond milk used as a substitute for dairy milk (originally brought to California from Spain by the Franciscan Padres). I must admit that I have always been under the false assumption that America just had these treasures in abundance when this country was founded. I, like many Americans, assumed that the variety of food grown in my garden or purchased from farmers markets and grocery stores, has always been a part of our heritage. However, “The Food Explorer,” corrects the false idea that the incredible wealth of fruit, vegetables, nuts, and even cotton, that we enjoy originated in the United States. This fascinating book explains the origin of these plants from many varied countries and jungles around the world. Author Daniel Stone, armed with a multitude of seemingly endless journals, letters and records, shares the delightful and fascinating story of David Fairchild, a late-nineteenth century food explorer and his benefactor Barbour Lathrop, a wealthy, private citizen whom he met aboard a ship bound for Italy. As a 20-year-old botanist, David left his Kansas home to work for the Department of Agriculture. There he studied ways to combat plant fungus. Along with a colleague named Wallace Swingle, he created a new government agency that they called the “Office of Seed and Plant Introduction”. Between the years of 1894 and 1904, David (consumed by his wanderlust for travel) searched the far reaches of the world for the unusual and delectable. Over that time he transported an inventory of over 4,000 plants; including avocados and watermelons from Chili, Soy Beans from Indonesia, Meyer Lemons from China, nectarines from Pakistan, kale from Croatia, hops from Bavaria and pomegranates from Malta to name a few. It wasn’t always easy, as some of the plants would not survive the journey or due to the abundance of plants and the lack of qualified people to handle them at home, some would eventually die before they could be moved and reproduced. Additionally, he suffered diseases, bargained with island tribes and was once arrested. One of the most fascinating things that Daniel Stone contributed to our nation is the introduction of the cherry blossom tree from Japan. After David fell in love with and married Marian Hubbard Bell (daughter of Alexander Graham Bell), he decided to relinquish his extensive travels and purchase a 10 acre parcel located near Chevy Chase Maryland. There he began to fill the space with his favorite trees and shrubs that he found during his travels. Marian had only one plant request: the Japanese flowering Cherry tree that she referred to as “Cherry Blossom.” The consequential history of this famous tree that outlines the DC Capitol streets is quite extensive and is best read rather than condensed herein. David Fairchild did lead an enviable life that was made possible by happenstance and living during a time period known as “the Gilded Age,” a time of rapid economic growth and industrialization. His story, as told by Daniel Stone, is a fascinating read. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did! Photo credits: book jacket

< Back Our State Flower: The Showy Lady’s Slipper Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Have you ever wondered about how state symbols came to be? Though united as one great nation, each of our 50 states is proud to highlight its unique representations, as varied as the individuals who inhabit their lands. Over the next several months, in this section you can learn more about some of our own Minnesota state symbols. The state flower is a fitting place to launch our exploration of our state symbols as it paved the way for the rest of the symbols chosen to proudly represent each state. And so we begin with our Minnesota state flower, the showy lady’s slipper. The showy lady’s slipper is also known by its Latin name, Cypripedium reginae, and more common name, pink and white lady’s slipper or simply moccasin flower. To the Ojibwe, it is known as Agobizowin . Its designation as Minnesota’s state flower was passed into law in 1967, but the journey began long ago in 1893, inspired by the World’s Fair in Chicago. The 1893 World’s Fair brought people from each state and at least 40 countries to Chicago to celebrate ideas, inventions, and achievements. The Congress of Representative Women was a weeklong convention at the fair that brought hundreds of women together from across the United States and the world to voice concerns of the day in front of crowds numbering in the thousands. To prepare for the event, one idea proposed was the “National Garland of Flowers,” whereby each U.S. state and territory would choose a flower that represented the state’s history, culture, and environment at the fair. The plants chosen for the fair were not yet considered official state flowers, but the event did inspire states to consider the idea of an official state flower. After consulting with a state botanist, women from across the state inclusive of every congressional district voted for a state flower from the following list: Lady’s Slipper Silky Aster Indian Pink Coneflower Wild Rose The lady’s slipper won by a huge margin and a petition was written to the state legislature to make it the state flower. While the picture of the correct plant made its way onto the Minnesota state flag in 1893, the incorrect Latin name was used in the official petition to the legislature, and the Senate designated Cypripedium calceolous, a flower that doesn’t exist in Minnesota, as our state symbol. Thankfully, the women of the St. Anthony Study Circle caught the error, and in 1902 a new resolution was written. The error didn’t go unnoticed, however. Newspapers of the day were quick to run headlines proclaiming our state flower a fake. But all’s well that ends well. The corrected resolution was passed by the Senate and House naming Cypripedium reginae , or showy lady’s slipper, as our state flower. Finally, in 1967 an actual law was passed that sealed the correct plant its place in our state’s history as our official state flower. The showy lady’s slipper is the tallest of over 40 orchid species native to Minnesota. The Latin species name reginae means “queen” and spotting this magnificent plant in the wild makes it clear how this moccasin flower got its name. It grows one to two feet tall and produces usually one or two flowers on its tall, sturdy stem. Out of a single rhizome, up to 20 stems may emerge. The flower consists of white petals and sepals and a magenta streaked inflated pouch, or slipper. Blooms last up to two weeks and typically occur in June to early July. Four to twelve large elliptical leaves that are five to ten inches long with parallel veins wrap around the stem. The leaves and stem are covered in bristle-like hair that may cause a rash if touched. This showy plant commonly lives 50 years, though some plants have been known to survive 100 years! It is a good thing it is so long-lived as it may take up to 16 years for its first flower to bloom. Each year a plant may produce as many as 500,000 seeds that are as fine as flour dust. They do not transplant well. It is better to just enjoy them by taking a photo if you find one. In fact, since 1925, the showy lady’s slipper has been protected by law making it illegal to pick or dig up the plants. For specific rules regarding written permission and permits from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and the Minnesota Department of Transportation, you can read Information on transplanting Lady's-slipper Orchids . Here are a few ways to enjoy the showy lady’s slipper in person: Go to the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum . Call the Bloom Line ( 612-625-9791) in advance to hear if they are in bloom along the Arb’s Bog Walk. Walk along Lady’s Slipper Lane at the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden and Bird Sanctuary in Minneapolis. Take a drive along Lady Slipper Scenic Byway in northern Minnesota through the Chippewa National Forest to see them blooming along the roadside. To learn more about our beautiful state flower, see the following links for additional information: https://www.leg.mn.gov/leg/symbols https://www.leg.mn.gov/webcontent/leg/symbols/flower2.pdf https://statesymbolsusa.org/ https://learninglab.si.edu/collections/a-national-garland-how-women-led-the-movement-to-declare-state-flowers/mAFroO4vbPlJakiE https://arbconservation.umn.edu/minnesotas-native-orchids#:~:text=There%20are%20roughly%20200%20species,one%20quarter%20of%20all%20species . https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/plant-of-the-week/cypripedium_reginae.shtml https://arb.umn.edu/about/contact-us https://www.minneapolisparks.org/parks-destinations/parks-lakes/gardens__bird_sanctuaries/eloise_butler_wildflower_garden_and_bird_sanctuary/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/snapshots/plants/showyladysslipper.html https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/flower/showy-ladys-slipper https://seasonwatch.umn.edu/showy-ladys-slipper Photo Credit: Office of the Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Minnesota Department of Natural Resources and US Forest Service (2,3), Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (5)

< Back Hydroponics at Home Have you heard of the hydroponic method of growing plants but thought is sounded too difficult to try at home? Hydroponics is a method of growing plants using a water-based nutrient solution rather than soil. Joanna Kapke, Master Gardener Hydroponics growing systems can seem daunting given what we may have seen or know about commercial and large-scale hydroponics; but at-home hydroponics systems can be quite simple and rewarding. When growing hydroponically, you have year-round growing potential, limited disease and insect pressure, no messy soil and even increased and quicker yields than when growing plants in soil. The most accessible hydroponics system for the at-home grower is called the “Deep Water Culture” method. This method consists of a container, water with nutrients and a support system for your plants. This method can utilize either a passive form of aeration (also sometimes referred to as the “Kratky method” due to research done on the concept at the University of Hawaii in the 1980s) or an active form of aeration involving a pump or other method of mechanical water circulation. More information about all forms and elements of deep water culture can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. The basics elements for starting your own at-home hydroponics system are as follows: Container : The container you choose should be opaque, clean and made of food-safe ingredients. The size depends on the mature size of your plants or how many plants you will grow in one system. The lid will be important as it will hold the net pots the plants will grow in and keep them suspended above the water. Some ideas for containers include a 5 gallon bucket with appropriately-sized holes drilled in the lid or even a recycled pasta sauce jar (the lid is the perfect diameter to hold a standard net pot) covered in an opaque material such as thick felt or foam craft sheets. Container and growing medium: The most common type of container for your plant when using the Deep Water Culture method is a net pot. It is exactly what it sounds like: a plastic pot with holes that will hold the plant and growing medium, but also allow the root system to grow through it to reach the water and nutrients below in the container. There are many options for growing mediums in a hydroponic system, including rock wool, coconut coir, hydration, pumice or perlite. Whatever medium you choose, ensure it is clean by soaking it in water for 24 hours before transplanting your seedlings into it. Light : Most at-home indoor hydroponics systems will require supplemental lighting-especially in winter. Water : The first and most important element of your hydroponic water is its pH. Water should be tested for its pH levels both before and after adding nutrients. The ideal pH of hydroponic growing water is between 5.4 and 7. The second most important element of your hydroponic water is the maintenance of appropriate levels in your container. In a passive system there needs to be an air gap between the water and the beginning of the plants’ root system. The air gap is where the plants get oxygen. Generally, after the first filling—in which the water should just touch the bottom of the net pot—water should only cover up to half of the root system. Any more than this and the plants may die. Nutrients: Because only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are available to plants in a hydroponic system, supplemental nutrients must be added to the water. Nutrient mixes specifically for hydroponic use are easy to find and come in many varieties. Plants to try and seed starting : The plants that do best in indoor hydroponic systems are lettuces, greens and herbs. When selecting seeds for your system, look for a hydroponics-friendly logo or signifier that many seed companies use. Seeds can be started in plugs of growing medium that will then be transplanted to the net pots when their roots peek out of the bottom. In addition to growing hydroponically indoors, hobby gardeners can grow many crops hydroponically outdoors in the summer. Other more advanced hydroponics options exist that can be adapted to home use as well. More information on outdoor hydroponics and advanced hydroponics systems such as nutrient film or drip systems can be found on the U of M Extension website on their Small-scale hydroponics page. This page has links to external and researched sources of information as well. If the supply resources and information available on the internet is overwhelming, there are several companies in the Twin Cities metro that can provide in-person guidance to get your own at-home hydroponics system started; for example: Ecogarden Supply ; St. Paul and Greener Gardens; Richfield. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 3), Joanna Kapke (2)

< Back Rhubarb is a Welcome Spring Vegetable Margie Blare, Dakota County Master Gardener Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable that grows well in Minnesota. If you grow rhubarb in your garden, it will soon be ready to eat and enjoy in many different recipes. This article provides both useful and fun information about this traditional, well-loved plant. If you grow rhubarb in your garden, it will soon be ready eat and enjoy in many different recipes. This article provides both useful and fun information about this traditional, well-loved plant. Rhubarb is variously defined as: Any of a genus ( Rheum ) of Asian plants of the buckwheat family having large leaves with thick petioles often used as food The tart, succulent, usually pink or red petioles of rhubarb used especially in pies and preserves The dried rhizome and roots of any of various rhubarbs grown chiefly in temperate parts of China and used in folk medicine especially as a laxative, diuretic, and ulcer treatment A heated dispute or controversy, especially in baseball Rhubarb is often called the “Pie Plant,” because it’s frequently used, alone or in combination with other fruit, in pies. Some spices used with rhubarb are ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg. Rhubarb Custard pie The origin of culinary rhubarb is unknown. It was grown in China and Europe before the 18th century and was used as medicine (see definition 3 above). Rhubarb stalks are a fair source of potassium, are 95 percent water and have no fat, sodium, or cholesterol, and are high in vitamin C, dietary fiber, and calcium. The stalks have some oxalic acid; the leaves, however, have a high concentration - which ties up calcium. This can cause kidney stones and aggravate gout and rheumatoid arthritis. According to Iowa State University Extension and Outreach , the roots of plants don’t easily absorb oxalic acid, so composting rhubarb leaves is safe. Rhubarb damaged by severe cold should not be eaten, as it may be high in oxalic acid , which can migrate to the stalks. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-rhubarb Minnesota provides the necessary 7-9 weeks of cold (<37°) weather to provide optimal growth. Plant rhubarb in well-drained soil. Different varieties have different levels of tartness and fiber. The plant will develop a large crown underground, this can be split to create more plants. Wait until the second season before harvesting; if you started from seed, wait until the third season. new Rhubarb leaves Begin picking stalks as soon as they have reached their full length. Depending on the variety, they may be only 12 inches long, or as long as two feet. To pick rhubarb, hold the stalk firmly, pull and twist. Do not use a knife to cut the stalks from the plant; it can carry diseases from plant to plant, and the remaining stalk can be a point of entry for other pests. Spring rhubarb doesn't need peeling, simply trim and wash. The harvest season for rhubarb lasts until the end of June. Until then, pick as many stalks as you wish. After harvest allow the plant to keep all of its leaves, to build up its reserves of energy for the next year. Rhubarb does have a number of pests and diseases to watch out for. slugs, snails and leaf beetles, are pests you should watch for In a wet year or in a poorly drained site, root-rotting fungi can affect the plant. Start over in a new spot if this happens. Rhubarb curculio damage. Alternate host can be thistles For help diagnosing problems, visit the UMN Extension diagnostic site: 'What's wrong with my plant? ' Keep your rhubarb healthy and it will reward you with many tasty recipes to enjoy. Photo Credit: Marjory Blare (2,3,4,5,6), H. Allen Smith (1)

< Back China Bayles Series By Susan Wittig Albert In the mood for a little light reading while exploring the world of herbs? Master Gardener and herb expert Shari Mayer reviews the “China Bayles” mystery series by Susan Wittig Albert. Each of the multiple volume mystery series centers around a particular herb. Read this article to learn more about this clever and informative mystery series. Reviewed By Shari Mayer, Master Gardener In the mood for a little light reading with an educational bent? Check out the China Bayles series by Susan Wittig Albert. This series can be likened to ‘The Cat Who…’ mystery novels, by Lilian Jackson Braun. Even if you’re not a mystery buff, these books are delightful and you learn a lot about herbs along the way. It’s a lovely read for a road trip, up at the cabin, or just sitting on your porch after a long day gardening. This series is comprised of 28 mysteries to date, each centering around a particular herb. It’s a great way to explore the world of herbs. I would recommend reading in order, although it’s not required. Albert has been publishing this series since 1992, garnering several awards along the way, including the Agatha award. She has a Ph.D. in English from Berkeley, and has also published under pen names, including Carolyn Keene and Robin Paige. In this series China Bayles is a high-powered attorney, who left that world behind to open an herb shop in a small Texas town. Each book is centered around a particular herb, and it’s amazing how much you learn about that herb as the plot thickens. I’ve been recommending this series for years now, and it doesn’t matter your age or inclination, everyone seems to love them. If you haven’t tried them, now’s the time. I used to get them from the library, but I hear Kindle, as well as Amazon Prime, both have options. Happy reading!

< Back Making Something Lovely After the Blooms Have Faded Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s October in Minnesota and most of your plants are no longer blooming. It’s always a bit sad to see your colorful garden fade for the season. But many of these flowers leave behind lovely seed pods or lovely flowers heads. This article shows you how you can take dried plants from your garden and turn them into a beautiful wreath to enjoy inside. It’s October and most of your flowers are probably no longer blooming. Last year at this time I took a walk around my yard and noticed how many lovely seed pods, dried flower heads, and grass stalks were still waving in the fall breeze. Usually, I fill baskets with them or vases (no water) and set them all over the house for natural, soft color pallet decorations. This year I decided to try my hand at making a wreathe. It wasn’t difficult, just took some time. Boy did it make a mess, but that’s what vacuum cleaners are for, right? Since I had so many dried flowers and grasses, I bought a very large grapevine wreathe to use for my base. I thought I would have to hot melt glue the stems to it, or wire them, or sew them, like I did with the cayenne pepper wreath that was featured a few years ago in the Garden Buzz. This time I kept the stems long when I cut everything out of the gardens, and it worked just fine to gently weave them through the grapevine. Take some time to plan your layout, coming up with a pleasing design based on what you have. For the wreathe pictured here, I used Globe Hydrangea, Garlic Chive, Pampas Grass, Pearly Everlasting and a few ornamental thistle heads. It’s a good idea to spray the entire thing with cheap aerosol hairspray when you are done before you hang it up. Spray it outside. This will help hold the blooms and grasses as they continue to dry out over the years. Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-4)

< Back The Midwest Native Plant Primer Alan Branhagen is a well-known expert on native plants in Minnesota. Jim Lakin reviews Branhagen’s “Primer” on why you should consider planting natives in your yard. Once you are convinced, learn which plants to grow. Reviewed by Jim Lakin, M.D., Master Gardener So many plant guides, trying to be encyclopedic, become as engaging as a phone book. Alan Branhagen’s latest addition to the literature of Midwestern botany happily avoids this pitfall. A native of Decorah, Iowa and current Director of Operations at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, Alan is passionate about the plants he describes. In this concise yet informative sourcebook Alan deftly describes 225 plants for an earth-friendly garden. This is a timely addition to our reference library as we become increasingly aware of the vital importance of native plants to the support of our complex and interwoven ecosystem. A well-considered introduction discusses plants native to the heartland of North America. As we Minnesotans well know, “No place else on earth has such an extreme continental climate , yet ours is a region filled with plants of every size in every hue…Native plants are important because they sustain all life in this landscape. Many animals, mainly insects, through millennia of adaptations and evolution are viscerally linked to a specific plant.” He discusses the various subregions of this vast and varied land, enabling us to understand the diversity of environment that must be kept in mind in selecting native plants. The mantra “the right plant in the right place” holds very true for natives. Other considerations include “who are you planting for...birds, insects, humans? The answer will influence the plant to select. The aesthetics of the garden may come into play for the Homo sapiens. For birds or insects, that may not be the prime criteria. But each species may have quite stringent requirements for the right plant species to provide the food and/or shelter for survival. For example, wild grapes act as host for the Pandora Sphinx caterpillar. This fellow in turn provides protein rich food for young birds. Absent the plant, the web of life is broken. Alan discusses designing with native plants, considering various styles—prairie, woodland, water, rock or edible gardens—along with a few words on maintenance. One thing about maintenance of native plants: they’ve been getting along just fine without humans for millennia. So, in a properly constructed native landscape maintenance should be minimal relative to our more formal gardens of exotic cultivars. Finally, the author provides a listing of the 225 most desirable native perennials for the various micro-climates discussed. Plants are listed in order of common names, a plus if you are not a Latin scholar. For easier reference they are subdivided into trees, shrubs, groundcovers and vines. The book itself is lavishly illustrated with a plethora of photos by the author and other photographers. Once again Timber Press produces a handsome volume that will grace the gardener’s library as a valuable and engaging reference. * Branhagen, A. The Midwest Native Plant Primer, Timber Press, Portland Oregon, 2021, 253 pages. Photo credit: Book jacket (1)