< Back Yellow Honeysuckle (Lonicera flava) Jim Lakin MD, Dakota County Master Gardener One benefit of climate change is that it allows us to grow plants that have previously been out of our growing zone. One of those plants is Yellow Honeysuckle (Lonicera flava). A Zone 5 plant, Yellow Honeysuckle is likely to grow well in the southern part of Minnesota. As Master Gardener Jim Lakin explains in this article, Yellow Honeysuckle is a beautiful, vining plant that you should consider for your garden. Although Lonicera flava is not usually native to Minnesota, it does grow wild in Illinois and Iowa. With climate change, it would be well worth your while to give this beauty a go. Yellow honeysuckle should do well in the southern part of the state which is rapidly becoming USDA region 5. In the Twin Cities, planting in a fairly sheltered area would be prudent. You folks up in Duluth probably are doomed to disappointment. Once established, Lonicera flava is a hardy fellow through Zone 5 and should give years of spectacular yellow flowers in the mid to late spring. Yellow honeysuckle is a long-lived native perennial. It does best in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Beware, however. This sunlight reduction will reduce the number and intensity of blooms. As the vine grows some 10 to 20 feet upwards, you will want to plant it adjacent to a trellis, fence or other sturdy support. A three to six foot spacing between plants is recommended. For the first season after planting, you will want to keep the plant moist although subsequently Lonicera flava is moderately drought resistant. A good covering of mulch helps a lot. Speaking of mulch, it is a good idea to mulch yellow honeysuckle heavily in winter especially in more northerly regions. Don’t heap the mulch around the stem, however, to avoid encouraging rot. The vine also tends to be disease resistant, although occasionally aphids will camp out on the leaves. It also is not the first choice of deer or rabbits on the buffet line. In short, it is a low maintenance plant. Although yellow honeysuckle will fit into most any landscaping scheme, it looks great in an informal or naturalized setting, especially as a border plant in woodlands. It forms tubular, fragrant trumpet-shaped flowers in whorls which attract hummingbirds and many butterfly species with their nectar. The plant will form small round orange to red berries in the late summer into the fall, providing food for birds and many small mammals. Thus, yellow honeysuckle is a big plus to the ecology of your garden. Photo Credits: elmostreport.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons)), Missouri Dept. Conservation (2)

< Back Goldenrod Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Goldenrod (Solidago sp.) – A Much Maligned Masterpiece I just hate to see goldenrod blooming. My eyes and nose itch. I sneeze like crazy…” I’ve often heard this complaint, wrongly hurled at a beautiful and ecologically important group of native plants. The problem is these late-summer blooming beauties unfurl their golden flowers at the same time that the relatively inconspicuous ragweed releases its allergy-causing pollen into the air. It is ragweed pollen, not the flowers of goldenrod, which creates all the misery of fall hay fever season. (Read this month’s “Gardener Beware” article for more on ragweed and hay fever.) Unlike ragweed which is wind-pollinated, goldenrod is dependent upon visiting insects to spread its pollen from plant to plant. Consequently, goldenrod produces abundant, nectar-rich flowerings to attract the pollinators. It thus is a very important source of late-summer and fall nectar for these vital insects, when little else is available, save for the asters. So, if goldenrod is so great why don’t we see it more in gardens than in vacant lots? As you might expect there is some debate as to whether or not goldenrod is a native plant to be cherished or a common weed to be eradicated. When you get right down to it, that’s a pretty subjective decision. One man’s weed is another’s treasure. Most goldenrod is leggy or “weedy”. They can be pretty aggressive spreading by seed and underground rhizomes. They will take over from less robust plants. Therefore, you have to be careful where you plant them. Some folks consider them “inappropriate” for formal garden settings. So, if your home turf is severely suburban, your neighbors might look askance at a front lawn patch of goldenrod. As you’ve probably guessed, my own aesthetics are a bit more on the wild side. I find Solidago sp. a great addition to fall landscape color in our wooded acreage. They are great for tough spots where most other perennials are reluctant to grow. They attract a variety of butterflies and bees in late August and September. Their seed heads are an important source of nutrition for birds during the winter months. Now that you’re ready to get in the goldenrod game, here are a few of my favorite species: Zigzag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis) is very hardy, reaching 1 to 2 feet. And yes, its stem does grow in a zigzag pattern. Bog Goldenrod (Solidago uliginosa) will grow in areas with wet, boggy soil although is prefers good drainage. It gets 3 to 5 feet tall. Old field Goldenrod (Solidago nemoralis) only grows ½ to 2 feet in contrast to its taller cousins. All goldenrods prefer full sun but will soldier through light shade. They have very few natural pests and really don’t require fertilization on all but the poorest soils. A little fertilizer or compost in the spring will boost their height. You should water newly planted goldenrod weekly. In subsequent years they get by with help only in the driest periods of summer. As I said, Solidago can spread. Planting it in a confined bed will help. Some folks suggest digging it up every couple of years before the roots become established. Another suggestion is to deadhead the flowers before they form seed, although this deprives birds of a vital food source in winter and early spring. So if you are up to a little naturalization, Solidago is the thing. The birds and the bees will thank you. References: extension.umn.edu Grow your own birdseed Most gardeners are nature lovers and therefore love their feathered friends. In your selection of plants to grow, have you ever considered growing your own birdseed? https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/solidago-nemoralis/ Photo credit: Native Plant Trust: Go Botany (1)

< Back Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels sprouts need a northern garden environment to thrive. Cool autumn air and frost intensifies the sugars in the sprouts, enhancing their flavor. This characteristic means that brussels sprouts are often the last plants standing in a Minnesota garden. Read on to learn more about Brussels sprouts and discover the best way to care for sprouts from late summer through harvest. Brussels Sprouts: The Last Gasp of a Northern Garden Brussels Sprout Heritage Brussels sprouts are part of the Brassica oleracea family (generally called “mustards”) that also includes broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, and collard greens. They are believed to be descended from wild Mediterranean kale grown in ancient Rome. Brussels sprouts, as the little baby cabbage vegetable we know today, were developed in the vicinity of Brussels, Belgium in the 13th century, becoming popular there in the 16th century. It took another two centuries for European settlers to introduce Brussels sprouts to North America in the 18th century and another couple of centuries to establish Brussels sprouts as a viable large-scale commercial crop in California in the 1900s. Today, the U.S. produces about 70 million pounds of Brussels sprouts annually. Brussels sprouts have been cultivated and improved in the last century. Sprouts as we know them today have been bred to have higher sugar content and lower glucosinolates (i.e. sulfur smell, bitterness), making them a more appealing vegetable for the American palate. Brussels sprouts are now often found in high-end restaurants served as an appetizer, in salads or as a side dish. Late Season Care Brussels sprouts may remain in the garden through October and possibly into early December in a mild winter year. Brussels sprouts will readily survive in temperatures as low as 20 degrees but will die out when temperatures drop to 10 degrees or lower. In fact, Brussels sprouts need one or two frosty mornings before harvest to reduce any bitter flavors and concentrate the sugars in the sprouts. To keep your Brussels sprouts healthy during the late season, follow these gardening tips: Stop Fertilizing. Do not fertilize Brussels sprouts after the sprouts have started to grow in mid-summer. You will see the sprouts growing on the stalk of the plant next to the leaf stems. Mulch. Add a fresh layer of mulch around the plants to keep the ground temperature and moisture more uniform. Leave about a 3” ring of clear ground around the stalks to reduce the chance of rot. Water. Continue to water the Brussels sprouts plants until harvest. Generally, Brussels sprouts need about an inch of water per week. However, the ground may retain water longer during cool weather so it is good to check if water is needed before watering. If the top one to three inches are dry when you poke your finger into the soil, then add water. Water around the base of the plant and avoid watering the leaves which could encourage disease. Stake. Healthy Brussels sprouts will continue to grow taller and develop more sprouts along the newer stalks throughout the long growing season. Therefore, consider staking the plants in the autumn. Staking will help support the weight of the growing sprouts. Staking will also promote air flow which can reduce the chances of disease. Trim. Commercial farmers trim leaves from Brussels sprout plants to concentrate the growth into the sprouts. While this action is not necessary for the home gardener, trimming leaves will improve airflow and may encourage sprout growth. Start by trimming the bottom 6-8 leaves and any yellowing leaves. An additional 2-3 lower leaves may be trimmed each week to allow room for the sprouts that intersect those leaf stems to grow. Be sure to keep the largest and healthiest leaves at the top of the plant since they are needed to feed the plant. Top Off. Brussels sprouts mature from the bottom of the stalk upwards – i.e. the sprouts at the bottom will be larger than the sprouts at the top of the plant. To encourage the upper sprouts to develop faster, you can cut the off the top 2” to 5” of the main stalk. Top off Brussels sprouts 20 to 45 days prior to final harvest (usually end of August or mid-September in Minnesota). Wrap. If you want to keep Brussels sprouts happy through a few freeze/thaw cycles, you could build a burlap-wrapped structure around the plants. This protection may help when night temperatures dip into the 20s, but the structure will not keep the plants alive during a longer stretch of harsher winter weather. Observe. Brussels sprouts will send you signals if they are not healthy. The plants may wilt or turn yellow during an autumn heat wave. Leaves may yellow and the plants may bolt if the plants are overwatered. Alternatively, brown spots and edges may develop on the leaves or sprouts if the plants are too cold. The newest growth will usually show signs of stress first. Be prepared to adjust your care and possibly your harvest time to accommodate the plants’ conditions. Harvesting and Storage Brussels sprouts are ready to harvest when the sprouts are solid, bright green, 1-2 inches in diameter and tightly wrapped. Most of the leaves should still be green; do not wait until the leaves have turned yellow or are dying. In addition, the plants will be 2-3 feet tall and approximately 80-100 days old depending on the variety (check the seed package). Wait to harvest until after one or more light frosts which will improve the flavor of the Brussels sprouts. Generally, Brussels sprouts are harvested mid-September to late October in Minnesota. A healthy Brussels sprout plant will yield between 60 and 100 sprouts. Partial Harvest. Brussels sprouts start losing their flavor within a day or two of being picked. You can retain the fresh flavor of the Brussels sprouts over a longer period by picking only some of the sprouts while maintaining the plants in the garden. The plants will continue to grow and produce more sprouts on the new growth until the plants are topped off. Harvest the sprouts near the bottom of the plant first. To pick a sprout, hold the sprout where it meets the stalk and quickly twist the sprout to snap it off. Alternatively, you can cut the sprout off the stalk with a knife. Remove the leaves left on the stalk near the sprouts you picked. Dispose of any yellow, brown or squishy sprouts and leaves. Dust off the sprouts but do not wash the sprouts before storing. Store the sprouts in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator where sprouts should last for a week or more. Alternatively, sprouts may be blanched and frozen for up to a year. Complete Harvest. Harvest the entire Brussels sprouts plant when the temperature drops below 25 degrees on a regular basis. To harvest, remove all remaining leaves and then cut the entire stalk one inch above the soil line. Leave the healthy sprouts on the stalk but remove any sprouts that are discolored or show signs of rot. Hang or stack the stalks in a cold storage area (e.g. garage, cellar or refrigerator). A harvested stalk can be stored for 3 to 5 weeks at 32 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, 32o is the temperature that keeps sprouts the freshest for the longest in storage or the garden. Avoid storing Brussels sprouts with apples, pears, or other fruits which will increase the sprouts’ bitter flavors. After the Brussels sprout harvest is complete, it is best to remove the entire plant from the garden. The plants may be composted or burned. Remember to rotate crops in next year’s garden; a 3-4 year rotation is recommended for all members of the Brassica oleracea family. Then, pull out one of your favorite Brussels sprouts recipes and enjoy! If you want to learn more about growing Brussels sprouts, please visit: https:/ extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts#direct-seeding-229361 http://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/growing-brussels-sprouts-home-garden http://extension.illinois.edu/gardening/brussels-sprouts http://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/brusselsprout2011.pdf http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/features/fascinating-facts-brussels#:~:text=The%20precursors%20to%20modern%20Brussels,crop%20in%20the%2016th%20century . Photo credits: Cherise Skeba (1), Mollsmadeleine.blogsport.com (2)

< Back Cover Crops Cover crops? What are they and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. Dig into this article to learn more about why and how to incorporate cover crops in your garden. Mickey Scullard, Master Gardener What is a cover crop and why might you consider growing one? Cover crops provide a way to add nutrients into the soil while also controlling weeds. Improving soil health is one of the best ways to improve plant growth and production as regular planting depletes soil of essential nutrients. Farmers frequently use cover crops, but many people don’t realize that they can enhance home gardens, too. They can be considered a living mulch because of their thick growth. Other benefits of growing cover crops include reducing erosion, maintaining soil structure, and managing weeds. As a ‘green manure’, cover crops serve to provide organic matter and nutrients back into the soil. Cover crops can support a wide range of soil microorganisms and importantly, given the drought conditions of the past few years, they help the soil retain water. Cover crops can be legumes such as vetch, clover, beans, and peas; grasses/cereals such as annual ryegrass, oats, rapeseed, winter wheat, and winter rye; and buckwheat. Selection will depend upon when you are planting your cover crop, where the cover crop will be planted in your garden, and your purpose in planting, e.g., add nitrogen, suppress weeds. The UMN Extension website provides numerous resources to help you make the best selection for your garden (see references at the end of this article). There is also a comparison guide of different cover crop options and information on seeding rates, ( Comparisons and Planting Rates ). Figure 1 below provides a snapshot of the table that can help you make the best selection, with planting times. Figure 1: Planting timing and seeding rate When selecting which cover crop to grow, you also may want to consider a few key factors. If you choose a cover crop that dies over the winter, it will be easy to work into the soil in the spring. If you select a plant that will survive Minnesota’s winters, you will need to have a way to kill the plant and then work it into the soil. You will also want to carefully consider the various benefits to growing a cover crop and determine which ones are of greatest importance. Some cover crops provide pollinators with food, help prevent weeds from growing, prevent erosion, or add nitrogen. Figure 2: Selecting cover crops based on effectiveness of providing various benefits When to plant cover crops is the next major decision. In Minnesota, our growing areas often sit empty after the harvest has occurred. Cover crops can be sown in early spring as a cool season crop in an area where you might plant tomatoes or pumpkins, which need warmer soil and temperatures to grow. If you grow cool season vegetables like lettuce or spinach, you could grow a cover crop during the summer months when it is too hot for these plants. Cover crops can also be grown in late summer after harvesting early vegetables that might be done by August. Late Fall before freezes occur is another option, once all the vegetables beds have been emptied. Figure 3, from the University of Minnesota Extension ( Cover crop selection for vegetable growers ), outlines these plant timing options, accompanied by illustrations of vegetables that might be grown before or after planting a cover crop. Please note the timing in the graph is approximate. You can find seeds for cover crops at garden stores, farm stores, and vegetable seed catalogs. To derive the full benefit, you will usually want to plant your cover crops densely, unlike the usual vegetable garden practices of spacing seeds. You will want to fertilize and water your cover crop to encourage a thick growth of biomass. You then work this back into the soil, adding organic matter. References Cover Crops and green manures in home gardens https://extension.umn.edu/managing-soil-and-nutrients/cover-crops-and-green-manures Cover crop selection for vegetable growers https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops-and-soil-health/cover-crop-selection-vegetable-growers Cover crops improve soil health, even on a small scale https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/cover-crops-improve-soil-health-even-small-scale Cover crop comparisons and planting rates https://extension.umn.edu/cover-crops/cover-crop-options#cover-crop-guides-and-resources-2174260 PHoto credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Bird Feeding Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. Bird-feeding is for all of us who enjoy and love watching birds. Inside this article you’ll find information on bird-feeding tips, preventing disease in your bird feeders and an update on the AVIAN (HPAI) bird flu that disrupted this summer’s bird-feeding habits. PLACEMENT OF BIRD FEEDERS Always place your bird feeders where you can frequently see the birds feeding but no closer than 3 feet from your windows. If you want to attract a larger number of birds, use Nyjer and black oiled sunflowers in a tube feeder, hulled sunflowers and whole peanuts in hopper and platform feeders (beware though that squirrels will love and go after the peanuts). You can also use alternative foods such as suet, fruits, mealworms, and nectar (great for hummingbirds). Adding habitat, food, water, and nest boxes will attract birds year-round. Feeders near larger trees and shrubs attract more visits to your feeders. Keep feeders free of debris and fill only with seeds birds will eat. Overcrowding at feeders can increase a bird’s stress level making them susceptible to disease. Choose feeders that maximize contact between birds and provide them with additional places to feed. Keep your feeding area clean of seed hulls and bird droppings by sweeping or vacuuming the ground below the feeders. You can also use no-waste seeds or seed mixes containing hulled seeds. Avoid feeders with sharp edges or points which can puncture the skin and cause bleeding or scratches that facilitate transmission of disease. CLEANING BIRD FEEDERS The best practice is to regularly clean your feeders approximately once a month with one part bleach to nine parts of water. Completely immerse feeders for at least 3 minutes and allow them to dry. Scrub bird baths and change the water several times a week to prevent mosquito reproduction and the spread of West Nile Virus. STORING BIRD SEED Store your bird food properly to ensure the seed is fresh. Store bird seed in areas that are cool and have low humidity. I keep my seeds in Menards sealed storage containers and store them in our indoor porch pantry which is cool year-round. HPAI (AVIAN BIRD FLU) This summer was a scary one for all bird watchers when we were advised to stop feeding the birds due to the Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (bird flu). The AVIAN flu is typically found in aquatic birds (swans, geese, ducks, etc.) who often don’t get sick but are sources for infection for domestic poultry (chickens and turkeys). The Raptor Center has been tracking the outbreak of AVIAN influenza in various bird species. Numbers were high for infection between March 28th through May 15th of this year. Although the number of cases has been on the decline, the risk from bird feeders is now low enough that we can use our feeders again. HPAI rarely infects humans, but depending on the virus strain it can have a severe impact on susceptible birds of many species. It’s easily transmitted in the feces and respiratory secretions of infected birds, especially during the migration season. The virus can also survive cold and freezing temperatures and will survive in aquatic environments. Henceforth, this is even more important for sanitation in our bird feeders. For more information on HPAI, refer to the Raptor Center at the University of Minnesota. University of Minnesota, Raptor Center National Bird-Feeding Society DNR Bird Feeding Guide All photos courtesy of Duncraft.com except as noted Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1), jdorganizer.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Spring is the Time for Wedding Soup Joy Johnson, Dakota County Master Gardener Spring is the season for weddings which prompts Master Gardener Joy Johnson to think about Italian Wedding Soup. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings; it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Read and learn how to make this soup part of your soup rotation – any time of the year. And, as a bonus, learn how to make Apple Butter to enjoy with your soup! It is so exciting that spring has arrived in Minnesota, I’ve doubled the size of my vegetable garden this year and started dozens of vegetables in early spring in the house. Now it’s time to put them out into the garden. They are all still young plants, many weeks away from harvest. But I am anticipating a bountiful harvest, so I need to use up what I canned, dried and froze from last year’s harvest to make room for this year’s produce. Spring is also the season for weddings, which makes my mind wander to Italian Wedding soup , which I love. Myth buster: it’s not called Italian Wedding soup because it’s served at Italian weddings, it’s called wedding soup because the flavors in it marry so well together! Usually, this soup takes a long time to make because it traditionally has tons of tiny little meatballs. Instead, I season ground chicken with lots of herbs and spices and then brown it. You get all the same flavors and textures without all the work. This soup is made silky and rich by the eggs stirred in at the end that cook into yummy wisps. I serve this soup with my homemade apple butter spread on my sour dough bread, with a glass of my homemade apple juice. I got a fruit steamer last fall and steamed my apples to get a fresh, sugar free, juice. Then I pressure canned the quarts of juice. We’ve been enjoying it all winter long and have just finished our last quart. The recipe for the apple butter makes very good use of the apple chunks that I had frozen last fall and is quick to make using a blender. Italian Wedding Soup Ingredients : ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 lb. ground chicken or turkey 1 medium onion ¼ cup dried parsley 1 T. dried basil 1 T. dried oregano 2 tsp. smoked paprika1 ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese Crushed red pepper flakes Fine pink Himalayan salt and freshly ground black pepper 6 medium carrots, chopped (fresh or frozen) 4 celery stalks, chopped 2 T. finely chopped garlic 8 cups chicken broth 6 cups spinach (fresh or frozen) 10 ounces cheese tortellini 2 T. lemon juice 2 large eggs Process : In a large pot combine the olive oil, chicken, onion, parsley, basil, oregano, paprika, ¼ cup of the Parmesan and a pinch each of red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Place pot over medium-high heat and cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon until the meat is browned and the onion is soft and translucent, 5-8 minutes. Add the carrots, celery and garlic. Cook stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 5 minutes. Add the broth and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the flavors are married, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the spinach, tortellini, and lemon juice. Cook until the tortellini are al dente, 5 minutes more. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and the remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Slowly drizzle the egg mixture into the broth, stirring the soup constantly and gently to form thin strands of cooked egg, about 30 seconds. Ladle into bowls and serve, topped with shaved Parmesan cheese. Maple Apple Butter Ingredients : 10 cups chopped apples, fresh or frozen 1 ¼ cups apple juice (or apple cider if you don’t have fresh juice) ½ cup pure maple syrup, plus more as needed 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp nutmeg ¼ tsp ground cloves Pinch of fine pink Himalayan salt Process : Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a blender, working in batches as needed, combine the apples with the apple juice/cider and blend until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a 9x13-inch baking dish. Add the maple syrup, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and salt and stir to combine. Roast for 30-35 minutes. Give the apple butter a stir and reduce the oven temperature to 350. Continue roasting, stirring every 30 minutes, for 1 to 1 ½ hours more until the apple butter is thick and golden brown. Taste and add more maple syrup as needed. Discard the cinnamon sticks, if using. Let the apple butter cool. Store refrigerated in airtight glass jars for up to 1 month. I also use this apple butter to make Chai Donuts , but you will have to wait until next month for that recipe! Photo Credits: Joy Johnson (1-3)

< Back April - What To Do About Winter Damage Karna Berg, Master Gardener As we think beyond winter to spring, you may encounter winter damage to some of your plants. In this article, Karna Berg reminds us how to give your plants a boost going into winter and how to deal with winter damage in a way that will allow plants to recover and, ultimately, flourish. As you adjust to the cold of our winter, are you already looking ahead to spring? Before we know it, it will be here. In April, we start uncovering a few plants, anxious to find them poking their noses out of the mulch and leaves. Unfortunately, as we continue that process, we find plants that have not made it through the winter or have winter damage. What do we do? Hopefully, you watered your plants, especially trees and shrubs, as long as you possibly could in the fall. That gives them a better chance of making it through the winter. And also, you provided your perennial beds with a nice blanket of mulch and leaves. In fact, as the first snows hit us, we can carefully shovel some of that snow under the lower branches of our conifers to act as a cushion and help the branches stay upright when the ice or extremely wet snow falls on them. While it is tempting to try to remove snow and ice from our plants after a heavy snow, it is generally not a good idea. The only exception to that is for conifers. If you can safely brush some of the snow off those branches, it will help them stay upright. But no matter our fall attempts to prevent winter damage and death, we usually have some of it when spring comes. It’s just hard to avoid all damage, particularly with our erratic weather patterns that bring warm days in March to fool our plants. So, what can we do in spring? First, don’t take off the mulch and leaves too early no matter how tempting that may be. Wait until all chance of severe cold has passed. We all remember that late snowfall or cold. Also, walking on our gardens and lawns too early can cause foot damage. Then, start to assess damage winter caused in your garden. On trees and shrubs (often the plants that experience the most damage), remove dead, dry and damaged foliage. If you find broken branches, cut them back to the stem or back to the first live bud you find. Always leave a little distance from the stem or bud when you do this trimming. And if a limb is bent down but doesn’t appear dead, it may be possible to prop it up and see if it recovers. Again, in our perennial beds, hold back from uncovering them too early. But don’t wait too long or you’ll find pale green limp plants trying to get to the sun. If you have covered your perennials with mulch and leaves, most have probably made it through the winter. Now it’s important to remove those leaves. If not, they will smother the plants and cause mold in your garden. Also, the dreaded jumping worms, which live mainly in the top two inches of soil, love those leaves and will feed on them voraciously. Let’s not give them any reason to fall in love with our garden. Once you have babied a plant along, hoping it will come back to life but it doesn’t, just remove it from your garden. Then plant a native plant in its place. Our native plants are best at dealing with our Minnesota winters. And are also great for pollinators. Remember, when fall comes, water a lot but don’t fertilize your plants. Watch your use of salt during the winter. Then, hope for the best and enjoy spring! Photo credits: Rebecca Finneran, MSU Extension (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3)

< Back Behind the Plant Sale Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener (and the Plant Sale Team) Every May, the Dakota County Master Gardeners put on a fabulous Plant Sale. In this article, we focus on what goes on “behind the plant sale.” From harvesting native seeds, to growing vegetables and herbs in our green and hoop houses, our plants are healthy, well-cared for and home-grown. This is a look at the people and processes that allow us to bring you some of the best quality, healthy and unique plants in the area. Every May, the Dakota County Master Gardeners put on a fabulous Plant Sale . This year the sale is on May 18th and will be held at the Whitetail Woods Regional Park, Empire Shelter, 171 Station Trail, Farmington from 8 a.m. to noon. All of the proceeds from our plant sale go to support our local projects: school and community gardens, adult education, the Farmington Seed Library, and seed trials throughout Dakota County, and many more. More information about the plant sale can be found elsewhere in this newsletter. In this article, I want to talk about what goes on “behind the plant sale;” focusing on the people and tasks that allow us to bring you the finest plants. The Dakota County Master Gardener (DCMG) plant sale is somewhat unique in that all of the plants that we sell are either directly from Dakota County gardens or are grown from seed by our Master Gardeners. We don’t buy plants grown by third-party growers. Our plant sale is well known for the quality and variety of vegetables that are available. Recently, we have also become recognized for the number and variety of native plants that we grow and sell. This effort is complex and requires expertise to provide you with the best quality and healthiest plants. Let’s take a look at what it takes to put on our plant sale and some of the people who make it happen. Preparing for the plant sale is a group effort. Approximately 70 MGs are involved in preparing for and working at the plant sale but Mary Beth Kufrin and Marie Stolte are the two very organized, very hard working and very talented MGs who are “in charge.” Collecting Native Seeds The annual plant sale starts with collecting seeds. DCMGs encourage the use of native plants. Take a look at the many articles on our website about native plants and the environmental benefits of growing them. In the fall, DCMGs collect native plant seeds from Dakota County Parks and our own gardens. The seeds are cleaned and stratified as needed. The seeds are then taken home by several DCMGs who will plant and grow the native seedlings. The Greenhouse Crew In addition to the native plants grown by DCMGs, we buy a variety of vegetable seeds based on plants that our customers have preferred the past. In March, those seeds are planted in a greenhouse by a group of DCMG volunteers. The group is led by Marc Battistini, Jinny Berkopec and Lisa Hofmann – all very experienced and dedicated DCMGs who spend many hours directing the volunteers and caring for the young plants. For the plant sale this year, the greenhouse crew planted : 12 varieties of tomatoes, 13 varieties of peppers and a few varieties of herbs (including Asian herbs). Also, in March, the seedlings that have been nurtured by DCMGs at home (including houseplants) are moved to the greenhouse. Over 50 varieties of natives and several different landscape plants were seeded. The greenhouse crew waters and tends to the seedlings as they grow into more mature plants. As they mature, seedlings are transplanted into larger pots. In April, the maturing plants are moved to a “hoop house” on the grounds of UMORE Park. (A hoop house is a type of greenhouse that is covered in heavy-duty plastic.) The plants will have outgrown our current greenhouse (which also grows plants for our trial gardens) and the hoop house provides a roomier home for the plants. The hoop house also provides a good staging area for the plant sale. All of the hundreds of plants must be labeled and priced by another group of volunteers. And - our plant sale is well-known for its very reasonable prices . Digging and Bare-Rooting Established Plants Of course, we also provide plants that are established and grown in the gardens of DCMGs. DCMGs tend to grow perennials that will prosper in our part of Minnesota! They dig the plants out of their own gardens shortly before the sale. DCMGs crews go the homes of Dakota County residents with large numbers of appropriate plants and dig those plants, as well. You are probably aware that jumping worms have become a significant problem in Minnesota. Jumping worms can severely stunt or kill plants and are transferable in the soil around a plant’s roots. (Read the article on our website about the problems that jumping worms cause in gardens.) As a result, DCMGs don’t just transfer the plants directly from the ground to the pots that we sell. We go through a process called “bare-rooting.” Bare-rooting is the process of cleaning the roots of a plant. (Read our article on “ bare-rooting .”) Our established perennials will appear wrapped in wet newspaper and tubing. Presented this way, our plants may not look as “pretty” as in a garden store but you can be assured that you will not be importing jumping worms into your garden. And they carry the added benefit of being easier to transport and plant! Plant Sale Set up Finally, the day before the plant sale, the hundreds of plants that have been seeded and grown or dug from local gardens, are moved and set up at Empire Shelter at Whitetail Woods Regional Park, thanks to the generosity of Dakota County Parks and Recreation. In addition to the plants, DCMGs provide educational materials for display at the sale. After all, we don’t just view the plant sale as a fundraiser - the sale is a great opportunity to provide advice to homeowners about the plants. Part of the preparation for the plant sale is getting the word out. Providing information in the Garden Buzz, email, news outlets and other tools helps us to bring you in to our plant sale experience. Plant Sale Day As you might imagine, plant sale day is an “all-hands-on-deck” event for the DCMGs. We have volunteers walking the floor to provide advice and direct you to the appropriate plants. At the sale, you will also find a table labeled “Ask a Master Gardener” – DCMGs who are there to answer any gardening questions you may have. DCMGs are directing traffic, tending our “garage sale” and of course acting as cashiers. We know that there are many plant sales around the Twin Cities area in May. We hope that this article has helped explain why you should choose the DCMG plant sale for your gardening needs. Our plant sale provides home-grown, unique and healthy plants that, we think, cannot be found elsewhere. Come check us out on May 18th and see for yourself! Photo Credit: Robert Hatlevig (1,2,6), Jinny Berkopec (3,4,5), Marie Stolte (7), Robert Heidtke (8)

< Back Growing Terrific Tomatoes Unknown Master Gardener 1) Purchase Healthy Plants Buy from local grower Bushy, disease free plants (no yellow leaves, no spots on leaves, stems) Disease resistant. Check tag: VFH. V=Verticillium, F=Fusarium wilt, N= Nematode resistance. Select local varieties, buy more than one variety 2) Good Soil Have soil tested. Call: 612.625.3101 Add good amount of organic matter - well-rotted manure, compost Watch PH Plant in pots? Change soil every year to prevent diseases Go to www.extension.umn.edu and click on GARDEN for more information 3) Location, location, location Minimum of 6 - 8 hour of sun ideal Near water source Rotate crops every year on a 3 year cycle Keep good records 4) Plant Correctly Don’t rush the season (plant 10 days AFTER the last frost date in your area) Harden off plants Don’t plant when soil is wet – stay out of garden when wet Pinch off lower branches, leaving few at top of plant, all fuzzy hairs of stem will become roots. Plant sideways in trench Dig out a shallow trench Remove lower stems and branches Lay entire plant down in trench on side Cover with soil 5) Don’t Crowd Plants Tomato plants get very large Need air circulation which will help dry leaves and prevent disease Will have more tomatoes when given adequate space to grow 6) Fertilize Plants Feed with balanced fertilizer Beginning after first fruit set 7) Mulch Soil Mulch is fabulous garden tool: Helps prevent weeds Will hold moisture in soil Helps prevent water splashing on leaves which helps prevent disease Mulch soil a few weeks after planting Types of mulch: wood chips, newspaper (not color), straw, grass clippings (no chemicals) 8) Water Plants regularly and deeply: Tomatoes require consistent moisture to produce a crop of smooth and unblemished fruit A tomato is 95% water! Need lots of water to grow and develop fruit Should receive 1 to 2 inches of water a week. No overhead watering…no sprinkler. Water splashes on leaves and causes soil to splash on leaves. Soaker hose is best Water plants at base Soak the soil thoroughly when watering. Frequent light watering will encourage weak root system. Watch container plants…anything in pot. plastic heats up quickly may need to be watered twice a day 9) Keep Plants off the Ground Staking plants will help reduce losses due to leaf diseases Keep fruit off the ground Round metal cage (heavier metal the better) Metal stake in ground/ Metal cage Use twisty ties to hold up branches to cage…be gentle Easier to pick tomatoes when ripe…do not let over ripen. 10) Clean Up Garden Area after Harvest Some pathogens over-winter on infected plant debris Important to dispose of: rotted tomatoes infected plants infected leaves infected weeds Leaf fungus can persist in soil Tomato Dictionary Determinate : Tomato plants whose vines make little or no growth once fruit is set. Most of the fruit develops at the same time. Indeterminate: Vines keep producing new shoots, blossoms and fruit throughout the growing season. Heirloom Tomatoes are open pollinated plants. They often do not produce as many tomatoes as hybrids, but typically taste better. Hybrid Tomatoes are plants that have been controlled breeding and have some good qualities such as disease-resistance bred in them. LINKS UMN Extension – Disorders of Tomatoes UMN Extension – Growing Tomatoes, Peppers & Eggplants in Minnesota Home Gardens

< Back Early Spring Blooming Plants Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. Carolyn Plank, Master Gardener Deep in the doldrums of winter, everyone is anxious for spring weather to arrive so that, once again, they can dig in the dirt planting flowers and vegetables. To entice us even more, we’re seeing bulb plants in the stores for sale so we can enjoy them at home until spring finally arrives. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the most popular spring blooming plants for your garden. CROCUS is one of the first bulb plants to peak its head up in early spring. They are a very reliable plant and frost tolerant. They grow 3-6” tall and are available in multiple colors in shades of purple, orange, pink, and white. They like full sun to part shade and prefer a slightly neutral soil pH of 6.0-7.0, but well-draining soil is very important. DAFFODILS are also an early spring plant best known for their bright yellow trumpet shaped flower. They grow in clumps and unlike tulip bulbs, they have little appeal to wildlife. Planting them amongst snowdrops, hyacinths and tulips provides a wonderful array of colors. They tolerate full sun to part shade with a slightly neutral pH soil (6.0-7.0). DWARF IRIS is a fragrant miniature plant that blooms early in the season and grows to about 6-8”. They bloom in two waves in various shades of dark to light blue, and purple making them ideal for borders. They prefer full sun to part shade, good soil drainage, and spread through underground rhizomatous stems filling the garden with beautiful spring blooms. HYACINTH loves full sun to part shade in a well-drained soil with pH close to neutral (7.0). This plant is well suited to Zones 4-8 and range in height from 6-12”. This plant has a very fragrant flower with tiny blooms resembling bunches of grapes. TULIPS bloom early in the spring season along with daffodils and crocus. They do best in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-6.5. Colors include orange, pink, purple, red, white, yellow and numerous multi colors that grow to 12-18” tall. EASTER LILY – Lilies are very flamboyant with beautiful flowers and an intensely sweet fragrance. Easter lilies are white in color although there are numerous types of lilies such as Asiatic and Oriental hybrids that come in many colors. The lily is an upright perennial that ranges in height from 2-8’ tall. Don’t forget, once that easter lily is done blooming, cut the stems down and plant the bulb in the garden so you can enjoy it again next spring. Lilies grow best in slightly alkaline (6.5-7.0) moist, well-drained soil high in organic matter. Fall is the time to plant the bulbs for most of these plants, so, if you haven’t planted any of these spring delights in your garden yet, I hope you are inspired to do so this year. Then look forward to a rainbow of color in the spring. Photo Credits: Carolyn Plank (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Julie Weisenhorn, University of Minnesota Extension (3), Woodies Garden Goods (4 - Creative Commons License) (4), Pixnio (Creative Commons License) (5), MaxPixel (Creative Commons License) (6)

< Back Make Your Own Terrariums Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Terrariums are miniature gardens that can bring a touch of nature to any room, making them the perfect project for kids who love getting their hands dirty and learning about the environment. Not only are they fun and easy to create, but they also teach children responsibility and patience as they watch their plants grow and thrive. Here are some tips for getting your little ones involved in planting and caring for their own terrariums. 1. Choose a container The first step in creating a terrarium is choosing a container. This can be anything from an old mason jar to a fishbowl. It’s important to make sure the container is clear so that your child can easily see the plants growing inside. 2. Select the plants Next, let your child choose the plants they want to include in their terrarium. Succulents and cacti are great options as they’re low-maintenance and can survive in a variety of conditions. Other plants to consider are moss, ferns, and air plants. It’s important to choose plants that have similar care requirements and will grow well together in a closed environment. 3. Layer the soil and gravel Place a layer of gravel at the bottom of the container for drainage, then add a layer of potting soil. This will give the plants the necessary nutrients to grow. You can also add a layer of activated charcoal to prevent odors and keep the soil fresh. 4. Plant and decorate Let your child get their hands dirty and help them plant the chosen plants in the soil. They can also add decorative elements such as small figurines or rocks to add a personal touch to the terrarium. Encourage them to use their creativity and make it their own. 5. Provide care and maintenance Explain to your child the importance of taking care of their terrarium by watering it regularly and providing adequate sunlight. It’s important to not overwater the terrarium as the enclosed environment can become too damp, causing the plants to rot. Teach your child to pay attention to the signs of when a terrarium needs water, such as dry soil or droopy plants. For more information about building terrariums, watch this video ! Photo credits: All creative commons (1), Cassandrapence.blogspot.com (2)

< Back Summer Sweetcorn: Midwest Magic Sweetcorn in the summer, fresh from the field, hot out of the pot. That is a potent memory for any kid lucky enough to grow up in the Midwest. For those of you that are thinking about recapturing some of those childhood memories, there is great news. Modern sweetcorn hybrids are available that make it easier to bring quality corn to the table. To get that delicious ear of memory, however, there are a few things you must do to assure success. Read this article to successfully grow your sweetcorn memories. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner First, it’s a good idea to get your soil tested. The University Extension can do that inexpensively ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ). Apply phosphorus and potassium as recommended by the test results. Corn grows best in well-drained, organic-rich soil at a pH around 5.8 to 7.0. The soil test can help getting the pH right. Working organic mulch and/or compost into the soil will also increase its richness. If you have any questions, you can contact the University Extension for help ( https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden/contacts-yard-and-garden ). When planting the seeds (kernels) you should sew at least four rows. To produce, the corn must either self or cross-pollinate with a similar variety. If the wind does not blow the pollen from stalk to stalk, blank spots will appear on the ears, where pollination failed. That’s why you want your cornstalks huddled together. Wait until the soil temperature is at least 60o. Plant the kernels about an inch deep 30 to 36 inches apart. It probably is best just to plant one variety of sweetcorn in a small garden. If different strains cross-pollinate the result is usually an ear with poorer flavor and texture. Once the seedlings sprout, you’ll want to keep up the watering. Drought can badly stress the developing ears and greatly reduce quality. About an inch of water a week usually does the trick. You will also want to start hoeing before the weeds get out of hand. When cultivating, use a shallow stroke just below the soil surface. Sweetcorn roots are shallower than field corn so you don’t want to get too vigorous and damage your plants. As the corn gets taller it will tend to shadow out the weeds and make your job easier. The most common corn insect pests are the European corn borer and the corn earworm. If you do find a caterpillar near the tip of the ear as you husk it, don’t be alarmed. They are common. Cut the affected part off and cook the rest. A lot of insect problems can be avoided by delaying planting until the soil has warmed to 60o (usually by mid-May) and using a variety that will mature in less than 80 days. You should harvest your corn when the kernels in the center of the ear are full and “milky” when squeezed. You should watch for this when the silks start to brown and dry. This usually happens about 18 to 24 days after they first appear. Of course, you’ll want to eat as much as you can while it is fresh, but once you‘ve had your fill there are several ways to preserve your harvest. Depending on the variety you can store the ears in the refrigerator for one to seven days before they lose their flavor. If you want to can the corn you must use a pressure canner. If you have the space, freezing is an excellent way to preserve sweetcorn. We have removed the kernels from the cob, boiled and bagged before freezing with great corn, months after August harvest. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)